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"bio": "\u003ca href=\"http://www.sarahhenrywriter.com/\">Sarah Henry\u003c/a> hails from Sydney, Australia, where she grew up eating lamingtons, Vegemite, and prawns (not shrimp) on the barbie (barbecue). Sarah has called the Bay Area home for the past two decades and remembers how delighted she was when a modest farmers' market sprouted in downtown San Francisco years ago. As a freelance writer Sarah has covered local food people, places, politics, culture, and news for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Latina-entrepreneurs-share-wealth-knowledge-2693764.php\">San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mercurynews.com/food-wine/ci_21619882/good-eggs-pie-subscriptions-and-seafood-deliveries\">San Jose Mercury News\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://alumni.berkeley.edu/news/california-magazine/fall-2011-good-fight/justice%E2%80%94and-good-grub%E2%80%94-all\">California\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco\">San Francisco\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.diablomag.com/Diablo-Magazine/November-2012/Artisan-Eats/\">Diablo\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/eastbay/fall-2012/school-lunch-20.htm\">Edible East Bay\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/marinandwinecountry/summer-2012-issue-14/getting-wild-at-a-west-marin-supper-club.htm\">Edible Marin & Wine Country\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>. A contributor to the national food policy site \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>, her stories have also appeared in \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/sarah-henry/\">The Atlantic\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.afar.com/highlights/kamal-mouzawaks-beirut-lebanon\">AFAR\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilttaste.com/stories/5207-a-family-tied-together-by-apron-strings\">Gilt Taste\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lhj.com/community/your-stories/whats-for-dinner-dude/?page=1\">Ladies' Home Journal\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://grist.org/author/sarah-henry/\">Grist\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.shareable.net/users/sarah-henry\">Shareable\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/food_news_origins/green_sustainable/host_a_diy_food_swap\">Eating Well\u003c/a>. An epicurean tour guide for \u003ca href=\"http://edibleexcursions.net/\">Edible Excursions\u003c/a>, Sarah is the voice behind the blog \u003ca href=\"http://lettuceeatkale.com/\">Lettuce Eat Kale\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/lettuceeatkale\">tweets\u003c/a> under that moniker too.",
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"disqusTitle": "Brunch at Heirloom Cafe with Kinfolk Magazine",
"title": "Brunch at Heirloom Cafe with Kinfolk Magazine",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Doorway640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Doorway560.jpg\" alt=\"doorway to Kinfolk magazine brunch at Heirloom Cafe\" title=\"doorway to Kinfolk magazine brunch at Heirloom Cafe\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42579\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The flowers were everywhere. Fat nodding peonies, burgundy lilacs, roses the shade of eggshells and buttermilk, silvery dusty miller and scented geraniums, all spilling over makeshift wooden carts and shelves inside and out of San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.heirloom-sf.com\">Heirloom Café\u003c/a> at the corner of Folsom and 21st Streets last Saturday morning. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Flower-Cart640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Flower-Cart560.jpg\" alt=\"flower cart\" title=\"flower cart\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42581\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The occasion was a brunch for contributors and friends of \u003ca href=\"http://www.kinfolkmag.com\">Kinfolk\u003c/a> magazine, now on its third quarterly issue. The magazine, perfect bound and printed on thick matte stock by local custom-publishing company Weldon Owen, is serene and bookish, heavy on the white space, filled with one- or two-page personal essays about food, family, and entertaining, lavishly illustrated with photographs and watercolors. It’s a chunky \u003ca href=\"http://www.heathceramics.com\">Heath\u003c/a> plate of a thing, utterly unconcerned with the flash, cash, and trash-talk of a trend-driven, chef-written magazine like the equally new \u003ca href=\"http://www.mcsweeneys.net/luckypeach\">Lucky Peach\u003c/a>, put out by McSweeney's. It’s the hobby/brainchild of Portland-based, economist-turned-editor Nathan Williams, who’s created a venue for a loosely knit, like-minded crew of photographers, writers, and stylists to revitalize (and capture) the art of casual entertaining between family and friends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Magazine-and-Flowers560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Magazine-and-Flowers560.jpg\" alt=\"Kinfolk Magazine and flowers\" title=\"Kinfolk Magazine and flowers\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42584\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether you find it worth the $18 sticker price may depend on your affinity for lyrical essays about spoons, crocheting, and gathering “the hen’s orbed offerings” (that’s eggs to you, buddy) next to soft-focus pictures of cheese boards, jam pots, flowering branches, and bike-riding guys in glasses awkwardly hugging their bandana-wearing dogs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Menu-Plate640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Menu-Plate560.jpg\" alt=\"Kinfolk brunch menu on plate at Heirloom Cafe\" title=\"Kinfolk brunch menu on plate at Heirloom Cafe\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42588\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, back to brunch. Heirloom stopped serving brunch in 2009 after its first few months in business, so this was a rare chance to enjoy the spacious, airy room with bright spring sunshine pouring through the huge front windows. The brunch was created by Heirloom Café chef-owner Matt Straus and his crew, rounded out with generous donations from local makers. On the tables were wooden boards of \u003ca href=\"http://www.redwoodhill.com\">Redwood Hill\u003c/a> goat cheeses paired with candied peels and fruit cheeses from \u003ca href=\"http://www.junetaylorjams.com\">June Taylor Jams\u003c/a>, followed by sweet and savory scones from Polk Street’s \u003ca href=\"http://batterbakery.com/\">Batter Bakery\u003c/a>, run by self-taught baker Jen Musty. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Flowers-Cheese640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Flowers-Cheese560.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese with flowers\" title=\"Cheese with flowers\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42608\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To my left, much-loved chef/author/blogger Heidi Swanson of \u003ca href=\"http://www.101cookbooks.com\">101 Cookbooks\u003c/a> was taking snapshots of the food and company with her vintage Polaroid camera while lifestyle and design blogger Erin of \u003ca href=\"http://www.apartment34.com/\">Apartment 34\u003c/a> sipped coral-colored carrot-citrus juice from \u003ca href=\"http://www.livinggreenssf.com/\">Living Greens Juice\u003c/a> and rhapsodized about the joys of the \u003ca href=\"http://instagr.am\">Instagram\u003c/a> app on her iPhone. There were bloggers galore, editors from Chronicle Books and Williams-Sonoma, photographers and stylists, all with Charlotte Gainsbourg bangs and high-waisted belts over puffed-sleeve pastel dresses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Gravlax640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Gravlax560.jpg\" alt=\"Gravlax at Heirloom Cafe brunch for Kinfolk magazine\" title=\"Gravlax at Heirloom Cafe brunch for Kinfolk magazine\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42591\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next course, silky housemade gravlax, cured with brown sugar, fennel, and dill over Acme rye bread and served with neon-yellow pickled onions, cauliflower, and cukes, was a dish to be envied by all those waiting on line for bagels and lox at \u003ca href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com\">Wise Sons Deli\u003c/a> a few blocks away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/quiche640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/quiche560.jpg\" alt=\"Quiche at Heirloom Cafe brunch for Kinfolk magazine\" title=\"Quiche at Heirloom Cafe brunch for Kinfolk magazine\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42594\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next came a platter of quiche squares, flavored with the classic French fines herbes combo (chervil, parsley, chives, and tarragon) and served with roasted asparagus spears, followed by slices of \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com\">Tartine\u003c/a>’s country bread drenched like escargots in pungent green garlic butter made by \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciaosamin.com/p/about-samin.html\">Samin Nosrat\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Samins-Green-Garlic-Bread560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Samins-Green-Garlic-Bread560.jpg\" alt=\"Green Garlic Bread by Samin Nosrat \" title=\"Green Garlic Bread by Samin Nosrat \" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42597\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the eggs, the salmon, the toast, affogati of Breyer’s vanilla drowned in \u003ca href=\"http://www.ritualroasters.com\">Ritual Roasters\u003c/a> espresso, then organic \u003ca href=\"http://www.swantonberryfarm.com/\">Swanton Berry Farm\u003c/a> strawberries pillowed in fresh whipped cream. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Strawberries-and-Cream560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Strawberries-and-Cream560.jpg\" alt=\"Swanton Berry Farm strawberries and cream\" title=\"Swanton Berry Farm strawberries and cream\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42600\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the past few months, Nate and features editor/events coordinator Julie Pointer have been hitting the road for one weekend a month to spread the good word through a shared Kinfolk meal. Each event is unique; said Julie, “For the the last one, we were setting up a table in a field in Texas,” all on their own on a sweltering day. But each one brings together local producers and restauranteurs, introducing people face-to-face after months of communication through nothing but digital words and pictures. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Nate-and-Julie640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Nate-and-Julie560.jpg\" alt=\"Nate Williams and Julie Pointer in Heirloom Cafe for Kinfolk brunch\" title=\"Nate Williams and Julie Pointer in Heirloom Cafe for Kinfolk brunch\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42605\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Nate Williams and Julie Pointer at Heirloom Cafe for Kinfolk Magazine brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/heirloomcafe640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Room560.jpg\" alt=\"crowd at Heirloom Cafe for Kinfolk brunch\" title=\"crowd at Heirloom Cafe for Kinfolk brunch\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42607\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, brunch: quite lovely, and Heirloom should do sun-drenched, family-style daytime events like this more often. But what kind of read is Kinfolk’s actual magazine? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In volume three, the spring issue, Kinfolk’s contributors welcome readers to their white, white world, a world of tall white walls and soaring ceilings, of creamy white cheese flaked over gold-white baguette slices and white china stacked on white shelves, of moon-glowing light fixtures and baskets of eggs, of a child’s cupped hands caked in flour and, yes, people so uniformly pale and wand-like as to appear incandescent, like waving glow sticks. The men wear geek-chic plaid; the ladies, plaid trenchcoats (for feeding the chickens, natch), creamy sweaters, crocheted lace, bare legs and stubby boots. It’s a rigorously styled life, a \u003ca href=\"http://hipstamatic.com/\">Hipstamic-ready\u003c/a>, matte-finish world of rustic lake cabins and elegant Danish apartments, of family breakfasts that start with steamed milk (jolted, for Mom and Dad, with double espresso shots pulled by the nine-year-old in the house) followed by backyard chicken eggs and bacon over hunks of buttery, pan-crisped peasant bread. Clutter, ketchup, placemats, Jimmy Dean sausage: they may exist, but not in these pages. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every contributor has a story to tell about their efforts to create a homemade life, striving to build friendship and community, enriching their family life, balancing work and home, and trying to make vivid sensory awareness part of even the most mundane morning. Clearly, for their writers, these first-person narratives were important to share: how a lunch led to marriage (and a tradition of recreating that first date on every anniversary); how a Marine wife and her husband reconnected after his tour of duty in Iraq by refurbishing a vintage Scamp trailer for a cross-country road trip. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The writing is pretty, occasionally adept, but I would bet that many of these contributors’ writing experience comes from personal blogging, not professional work as novelists, poets, critics, or journalists. (The photography, however, seems undeniably professional and beautiful.) They share their stories earnestly, too earnestly, maybe, as if their need for occasional switched-off solitude, for fresh eggs from their own hens, for leaving it all behind and starting a 2500€-a-week \u003ca href=\"http://www.thecooksatelier.com/Site/The_Cooks_Atelier.html\">cooking school\u003c/a> in Burgundy were the most important thing in the world, not just to themselves but to their readers, too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, anyone aspiring to write for a larger, slower-reading audience must be reminded that no one loves you in print like you can love yourself online. By all means, write about yourself, your dreams, your shoes and breakfasts, but remember that, stripped of links, recipes, and photos in the text, such things are rarely interesting to readers unless you work hard to make them so, by drawing some parallel between your experience and the wider world. (Or by being really, really funny—see Sedaris, David and Amy--but even then, insight and/or poignancy is still the salt in the soup.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m hoping Kinfolk has enough self-awareness to have planned its final photo spread, \u003cem>The Manly Host,\u003c/em> as a spoof of a particular type of (mostly masculine) foodie hipster. Here, lovingly photographed, is \u003cem>The Whittling Party,\u003c/em> fueled by saltines, sardines from a can, bourbon and antlers. It’s followed by \u003cem>The Midday Roast,\u003c/em> not of prime rib or a brace of ducks but s’mores, deconstructed into a waxed-paper sleeve of graham crackers, a cup of square, chunky marshmallows, a single perfect birch log, an antler-handled knife (more antlers! When is this, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2006/09/20/dining/reviews/20rest.html?pagewanted=all\">2004?\u003c/a>) and cult-status, hand-crafted bars of Brooklyn’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.mastbrothers.com\">Mast Brothers\u003c/a> chocolate, at eight bucks a bar. Funny, or “Funny, that’s just what we did last night!”? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Julie-and-Nate-Portrait640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Julie-and-Nate-Portrait560.jpg\" alt=\"Julie Pointer and Nate Williams in front of Heirloom Cafe for Kinfolk Magazine brunch\" title=\"Julie Pointer and Nate Williams in front of Heirloom Cafe for Kinfolk Magazine brunch\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42603\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Julie Pointer and Nate Williams in front of Heirloom Cafe for Kinfolk Magazine brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "San Francisco's Heirloom Cafe throws a rare daytime event, a flower-decked brunch for friends and contributors to Kinfolk magazine. Stephanie Rosenbaum gets a view of the scene and weighs in on the contents of the new quarterly publication. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Doorway640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Doorway560.jpg\" alt=\"doorway to Kinfolk magazine brunch at Heirloom Cafe\" title=\"doorway to Kinfolk magazine brunch at Heirloom Cafe\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42579\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The flowers were everywhere. Fat nodding peonies, burgundy lilacs, roses the shade of eggshells and buttermilk, silvery dusty miller and scented geraniums, all spilling over makeshift wooden carts and shelves inside and out of San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.heirloom-sf.com\">Heirloom Café\u003c/a> at the corner of Folsom and 21st Streets last Saturday morning. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Flower-Cart640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Flower-Cart560.jpg\" alt=\"flower cart\" title=\"flower cart\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42581\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The occasion was a brunch for contributors and friends of \u003ca href=\"http://www.kinfolkmag.com\">Kinfolk\u003c/a> magazine, now on its third quarterly issue. The magazine, perfect bound and printed on thick matte stock by local custom-publishing company Weldon Owen, is serene and bookish, heavy on the white space, filled with one- or two-page personal essays about food, family, and entertaining, lavishly illustrated with photographs and watercolors. It’s a chunky \u003ca href=\"http://www.heathceramics.com\">Heath\u003c/a> plate of a thing, utterly unconcerned with the flash, cash, and trash-talk of a trend-driven, chef-written magazine like the equally new \u003ca href=\"http://www.mcsweeneys.net/luckypeach\">Lucky Peach\u003c/a>, put out by McSweeney's. It’s the hobby/brainchild of Portland-based, economist-turned-editor Nathan Williams, who’s created a venue for a loosely knit, like-minded crew of photographers, writers, and stylists to revitalize (and capture) the art of casual entertaining between family and friends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Magazine-and-Flowers560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Magazine-and-Flowers560.jpg\" alt=\"Kinfolk Magazine and flowers\" title=\"Kinfolk Magazine and flowers\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42584\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether you find it worth the $18 sticker price may depend on your affinity for lyrical essays about spoons, crocheting, and gathering “the hen’s orbed offerings” (that’s eggs to you, buddy) next to soft-focus pictures of cheese boards, jam pots, flowering branches, and bike-riding guys in glasses awkwardly hugging their bandana-wearing dogs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Menu-Plate640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Menu-Plate560.jpg\" alt=\"Kinfolk brunch menu on plate at Heirloom Cafe\" title=\"Kinfolk brunch menu on plate at Heirloom Cafe\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42588\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, back to brunch. Heirloom stopped serving brunch in 2009 after its first few months in business, so this was a rare chance to enjoy the spacious, airy room with bright spring sunshine pouring through the huge front windows. The brunch was created by Heirloom Café chef-owner Matt Straus and his crew, rounded out with generous donations from local makers. On the tables were wooden boards of \u003ca href=\"http://www.redwoodhill.com\">Redwood Hill\u003c/a> goat cheeses paired with candied peels and fruit cheeses from \u003ca href=\"http://www.junetaylorjams.com\">June Taylor Jams\u003c/a>, followed by sweet and savory scones from Polk Street’s \u003ca href=\"http://batterbakery.com/\">Batter Bakery\u003c/a>, run by self-taught baker Jen Musty. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Flowers-Cheese640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Flowers-Cheese560.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese with flowers\" title=\"Cheese with flowers\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42608\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To my left, much-loved chef/author/blogger Heidi Swanson of \u003ca href=\"http://www.101cookbooks.com\">101 Cookbooks\u003c/a> was taking snapshots of the food and company with her vintage Polaroid camera while lifestyle and design blogger Erin of \u003ca href=\"http://www.apartment34.com/\">Apartment 34\u003c/a> sipped coral-colored carrot-citrus juice from \u003ca href=\"http://www.livinggreenssf.com/\">Living Greens Juice\u003c/a> and rhapsodized about the joys of the \u003ca href=\"http://instagr.am\">Instagram\u003c/a> app on her iPhone. There were bloggers galore, editors from Chronicle Books and Williams-Sonoma, photographers and stylists, all with Charlotte Gainsbourg bangs and high-waisted belts over puffed-sleeve pastel dresses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Gravlax640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Gravlax560.jpg\" alt=\"Gravlax at Heirloom Cafe brunch for Kinfolk magazine\" title=\"Gravlax at Heirloom Cafe brunch for Kinfolk magazine\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42591\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next course, silky housemade gravlax, cured with brown sugar, fennel, and dill over Acme rye bread and served with neon-yellow pickled onions, cauliflower, and cukes, was a dish to be envied by all those waiting on line for bagels and lox at \u003ca href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com\">Wise Sons Deli\u003c/a> a few blocks away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/quiche640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/quiche560.jpg\" alt=\"Quiche at Heirloom Cafe brunch for Kinfolk magazine\" title=\"Quiche at Heirloom Cafe brunch for Kinfolk magazine\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42594\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next came a platter of quiche squares, flavored with the classic French fines herbes combo (chervil, parsley, chives, and tarragon) and served with roasted asparagus spears, followed by slices of \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com\">Tartine\u003c/a>’s country bread drenched like escargots in pungent green garlic butter made by \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciaosamin.com/p/about-samin.html\">Samin Nosrat\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Samins-Green-Garlic-Bread560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Samins-Green-Garlic-Bread560.jpg\" alt=\"Green Garlic Bread by Samin Nosrat \" title=\"Green Garlic Bread by Samin Nosrat \" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42597\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the eggs, the salmon, the toast, affogati of Breyer’s vanilla drowned in \u003ca href=\"http://www.ritualroasters.com\">Ritual Roasters\u003c/a> espresso, then organic \u003ca href=\"http://www.swantonberryfarm.com/\">Swanton Berry Farm\u003c/a> strawberries pillowed in fresh whipped cream. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Strawberries-and-Cream560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Strawberries-and-Cream560.jpg\" alt=\"Swanton Berry Farm strawberries and cream\" title=\"Swanton Berry Farm strawberries and cream\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42600\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the past few months, Nate and features editor/events coordinator Julie Pointer have been hitting the road for one weekend a month to spread the good word through a shared Kinfolk meal. Each event is unique; said Julie, “For the the last one, we were setting up a table in a field in Texas,” all on their own on a sweltering day. But each one brings together local producers and restauranteurs, introducing people face-to-face after months of communication through nothing but digital words and pictures. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Nate-and-Julie640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Nate-and-Julie560.jpg\" alt=\"Nate Williams and Julie Pointer in Heirloom Cafe for Kinfolk brunch\" title=\"Nate Williams and Julie Pointer in Heirloom Cafe for Kinfolk brunch\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42605\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Nate Williams and Julie Pointer at Heirloom Cafe for Kinfolk Magazine brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/heirloomcafe640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Room560.jpg\" alt=\"crowd at Heirloom Cafe for Kinfolk brunch\" title=\"crowd at Heirloom Cafe for Kinfolk brunch\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-42607\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, brunch: quite lovely, and Heirloom should do sun-drenched, family-style daytime events like this more often. But what kind of read is Kinfolk’s actual magazine? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In volume three, the spring issue, Kinfolk’s contributors welcome readers to their white, white world, a world of tall white walls and soaring ceilings, of creamy white cheese flaked over gold-white baguette slices and white china stacked on white shelves, of moon-glowing light fixtures and baskets of eggs, of a child’s cupped hands caked in flour and, yes, people so uniformly pale and wand-like as to appear incandescent, like waving glow sticks. The men wear geek-chic plaid; the ladies, plaid trenchcoats (for feeding the chickens, natch), creamy sweaters, crocheted lace, bare legs and stubby boots. It’s a rigorously styled life, a \u003ca href=\"http://hipstamatic.com/\">Hipstamic-ready\u003c/a>, matte-finish world of rustic lake cabins and elegant Danish apartments, of family breakfasts that start with steamed milk (jolted, for Mom and Dad, with double espresso shots pulled by the nine-year-old in the house) followed by backyard chicken eggs and bacon over hunks of buttery, pan-crisped peasant bread. Clutter, ketchup, placemats, Jimmy Dean sausage: they may exist, but not in these pages. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every contributor has a story to tell about their efforts to create a homemade life, striving to build friendship and community, enriching their family life, balancing work and home, and trying to make vivid sensory awareness part of even the most mundane morning. Clearly, for their writers, these first-person narratives were important to share: how a lunch led to marriage (and a tradition of recreating that first date on every anniversary); how a Marine wife and her husband reconnected after his tour of duty in Iraq by refurbishing a vintage Scamp trailer for a cross-country road trip. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The writing is pretty, occasionally adept, but I would bet that many of these contributors’ writing experience comes from personal blogging, not professional work as novelists, poets, critics, or journalists. (The photography, however, seems undeniably professional and beautiful.) They share their stories earnestly, too earnestly, maybe, as if their need for occasional switched-off solitude, for fresh eggs from their own hens, for leaving it all behind and starting a 2500€-a-week \u003ca href=\"http://www.thecooksatelier.com/Site/The_Cooks_Atelier.html\">cooking school\u003c/a> in Burgundy were the most important thing in the world, not just to themselves but to their readers, too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, anyone aspiring to write for a larger, slower-reading audience must be reminded that no one loves you in print like you can love yourself online. By all means, write about yourself, your dreams, your shoes and breakfasts, but remember that, stripped of links, recipes, and photos in the text, such things are rarely interesting to readers unless you work hard to make them so, by drawing some parallel between your experience and the wider world. (Or by being really, really funny—see Sedaris, David and Amy--but even then, insight and/or poignancy is still the salt in the soup.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m hoping Kinfolk has enough self-awareness to have planned its final photo spread, \u003cem>The Manly Host,\u003c/em> as a spoof of a particular type of (mostly masculine) foodie hipster. Here, lovingly photographed, is \u003cem>The Whittling Party,\u003c/em> fueled by saltines, sardines from a can, bourbon and antlers. It’s followed by \u003cem>The Midday Roast,\u003c/em> not of prime rib or a brace of ducks but s’mores, deconstructed into a waxed-paper sleeve of graham crackers, a cup of square, chunky marshmallows, a single perfect birch log, an antler-handled knife (more antlers! When is this, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2006/09/20/dining/reviews/20rest.html?pagewanted=all\">2004?\u003c/a>) and cult-status, hand-crafted bars of Brooklyn’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.mastbrothers.com\">Mast Brothers\u003c/a> chocolate, at eight bucks a bar. Funny, or “Funny, that’s just what we did last night!”? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"title": "Forbidden Foie Gras",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-17.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-17.jpg\" alt=\"txoko foie gras dinner\" title=\"txoko foie gras dinner\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41537\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Petit Sale, Foie Gras a la Plancha with Lentils at Txoko\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We hurried along in the cloak of darkness, skirting the lamp posts, our footsteps echoing on the wet cobblestone. We reached our destination, threw a quick look over our shoulders to make sure we weren’t being followed, and then approached the discreet door, solid, bolted. One long knock followed by three swift knocks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Password: \u003cem>quack quack\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003cstrong>foie gras dinner\u003c/strong> awaits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*****\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ok, so maybe it wasn’t quite so dramatic. But with California’s upcoming \u003cstrong>ban on foie gras\u003c/strong> slated for July 1 (\u003ca href=\"http://leginfo.legislature.ca.gov/faces/billNavClient.xhtml?bill_id=200320040SB1520\">Senate Bill 1520\u003c/a>), who knows what kind of clandestine measures we’ll have to take to get a taste of the forbidden foie?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I predict a healthy black market, astronomic prices, and a resurgence of speakeasy grilles in the door design world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vivid imagination aside, the morality of producing, serving, and eating foie gras is a hotly debated, emotional topic from both sides. At the crux of the matter is the practice of \u003cem>gavage\u003c/em>, the use of a funnel inserted into the duck/goose’s esophagus to force-feed grain over the final few weeks of its life. Those in favor of the foie gras ban argue that the practice of gavage is cruel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those against the ban counter that the animals do not suffer from gavage because of a number of \u003ca href=\"http://www.artisanfoiegras.com/articles/GuemeneLetter.pdf\">physiological reasons\u003c/a>. The digestive tracts of duck and geese, and other similar water fowl, are made to accommodate the swallowing of large prey, whole. They lack a gag reflex. Their esophagus is not sensitive and is lined with keratin, not the delicate mucus membrane found in humans. Unlike humans, the opening of a duck’s trachea sits in the middle of their tongue. Because of this anatomical feature, their upper respiratory tract is not blocked during gavage, so they are able to breathe during the process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>High profile chefs have taken stances of the matter. In a letter to fellow California restaurateurs, \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2012/03/wolfgang_puck_sends_letter_to.php#more\">Wolfgang Puck\u003c/a> writes: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\nAs a chef, a businessman, and someone who cares about the humane treatment of animals, I'm writing to let you know why I support this particular law, and why I hope you'll give it your full support, as well…We chefs have the ability to create delicious and original dishes our customers will love without causing torment to animals.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chicagotribune.com/features/chi-0504070058apr07,0,3549007.story?page=1\">Charlie Trotter\u003c/a> has also vocally spoken out against foie gras, while \u003ca href=\"http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/04/06/table-talk-frere-jacques/\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a> calls California’s banning of foie gras \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\nTotally ridiculous.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>The debate over the ethics of foie gras is full of passionate opinions, but California’s ban brings up another issue of \u003cstrong>choice\u003c/strong>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://incanto.biz/2009/02/01/shock-foie/\">Mark Pastore\u003c/a>, co-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://incanto.biz/\">Incanto\u003c/a>, brings this point to light: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\nReasonable people can disagree over the ethics of one’s chosen diet and the various practices of farmers, whether those farmers produce meat, fruits, or vegetables. Fundamentally, we believe that individuals ought to be free to determine how to live their lives, including their diet… \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We respect the right to oppose the production and consumption of foie gras. We relate to many of the reasons that some choose to do so. However, we no more cede control over our morality than we would presume to compel someone else to conform to our notions of how they ought to live their life. We do not grant permission to someone who has no legal, moral, or spiritual authority to impose their beliefs upon us, whether that person is demanding we adopt their point of view regarding foie gras, abortion, or what books we should read. These are all personal choices and should remain so.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-3.jpg\" alt=\"Txoko, SF\" title=\"Txoko, SF\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41532\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Foie Gras Dinner, Txoko SF\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While many restaurants have already started taking foie gras off their menu, others have done the exact opposite, choosing to honor the luscious lobe with special foie-centric menus. From the looks of the sold-out events, the countdown to July 1 has foie gras lovers eager to indulge while they can. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This month, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/06/10/dishcrawl-real-life-culinary-social-networking/\">Dishcrawl\u003c/a> is hosting a \u003ca href=\"http://www.dishcrawl.com/foiebattle/\">Foie Battle\u003c/a> -- a series of intimate foie gras dinners featuring various chefs at secret locations throughout the Bay Area. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/txoko-at-bar.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/txoko-at-bar.jpg\" alt=\"Txoko at bar\" title=\"Txoko at bar\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41539\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Txoko, SF\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I attended one of these dinners last week at \u003ca href=\"http://www.txokosf.com/\">Txoko\u003c/a> (pronounced \u003cem>CHO-ko\u003c/em>). The Basque-inspired restaurant is owned by \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2012/03/29/why-we-serve-foie-gras/\">Ryan Maxey\u003c/a> and chef \u003cstrong>Ian Begg\u003c/strong>, the same guys behind \u003ca href=\"http://www.nakedlunchsf.com/\">Naked Lunch\u003c/a> (and its claim to fame, the \u003cstrong>Foie Gras & Duck Prosciutto Sandwich\u003c/strong>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-11.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-11.jpg\" alt=\"Txoko bar\" title=\"Txoko bar\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41534\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Txoko Bar\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cocktails by bar master \u003cstrong>Jason Brown\u003c/strong> are creative and dangerously tasty. I tried the \u003cstrong>Cool Hand Luke Fizz\u003c/strong>, made with Fighting Cock Bourbon, bitters, Mexican Coke, and frothy egg whites. Basically a bourbon float. Happy times. I’m already looking forward to future pintxos-laden happy hours so I can sample a few more of Brown’s concoctions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-8-v2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-8-v2.jpg\" alt=\"Glazed Marin Miyagi Oyster in Foie Gras Cream\" title=\"Glazed Marin Miyagi Oyster in Foie Gras Cream\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41533\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Glazed Marin Miyagi Oyster in Foie Gras Cream\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our decadent meal started off with a \u003cstrong>Glazed Marin Miyagi Oyster\u003c/strong> floating in a pool of \u003cstrong>foie gras cream\u003c/strong>, garnished with pickled cucumber, a chiffonade of anise-y flavored shiso, and vibrant droplets of chili oil. The starter was well-balanced and full of bright flavors to whet our palate. My dining partners and I all noticed that the foie gras cream had a familiar tang to it. After a few moments of flipping through my brain’s Filofax of flavor recognition, I had the answer: \u003cstrong>White Cheddar Cheez-Its\u003c/strong>. There was unanimous agreement that I was indeed spot-on correct. We called Ryan over to confirm. He insisted the cream was just made of foie renderings and cream…let’s just agree to disagree, Ryan. We know there’s pulverized Cheez-Its in there. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-13.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-13.jpg\" alt=\"Salt Cured Foie Gras Torchon\" title=\"Salt Cured Foie Gras Torchon\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41535\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Salt Cured Foie Gras Torchon\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next came a \u003cstrong>Salt Cured Foie Gras Torchon\u003c/strong> with toasted almonds, muscato gelee, and arugula, over toasted pain de mie and slices of meyer lemon. The flavor of the foie gras torchon was beautiful, like salted butter set out on a path of seduction. The muscato gelee was a playful touch, cool on the tongue and brought out the sweetness of the meyer lemon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-16.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-16.jpg\" alt=\"Pan Seared Day Boat Scallop\" title=\"Pan Seared Day Boat Scallop\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41536\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pan Seared Day Boat Scallop in Foie Sauce\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pan Seared Day Boat Scallop\u003c/strong> graced our table next, nestled over velvety potato coulis and hen of the woods cooked in a \u003cstrong>foie gras sauce\u003c/strong> fragranced with sage. The foie flavor was subdued in this dish and had to be sought out. The hen of the woods shone. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The big foie finish was the \u003cstrong>Petit Sale\u003c/strong>, a, eye-popping portion of gorgeously seared \u003cstrong>Foie Gras a la Plancha\u003c/strong>, over a bed of creamy beluga lentils, fava beans, green garlic, and mirepoix. A few rosettes of sweet duck jamon (translation for Italians: duck prosciutto) adorned the plate. The crowning jewel was a perfect crispy puff of \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/chicharrones-2.jpg\">4505 chicharrone\u003c/a>. The dish was at once fresh and Spring and luxuriously rich. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-18-v2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-18-v2.jpg\" alt=\"Foie Gras Ice Cream\" title=\"Foie Gras Ice Cream\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41538\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Foie Gras Ice Cream\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know you’ve been wondering this whole time how a foie gras dessert would pan out. The answer is \u003cstrong>Foie Gras Ice Cream\u003c/strong>. Before you cringe, hear me out. I’ve tried sweets made with duck fat before…and it is a fine line. It takes restraint and the right flavor pairings to make it work. Txoko’s Foie Gras Ice Cream succeeds in doing just that. The foie flavor in the ice cream is subtle, so that you’re delighted when you look for it. It tastes vaguely of toasted nuts and coconut milk. The ice cream base is made with cream and foie gras renderings (similar to the foie cream in our first course, minus the Cheez-Its of course). Caramel-y prunes in syrup and bits of buttery shortbread cookies accompany the ice cream for a perfect ending to the meal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From now until July 1, you can savor your forbidden foie gras at \u003ca href=\"http://www.txokosf.com/\">Txoko\u003c/a> -- their signature dish on the regular menu is \u003cstrong>Foie Gras a la Plancha\u003c/strong>, served with golden raisin sauce, caramelized Brussels sprouts, pain de mie, and duck prosciutto. They also offer a \u003cstrong>Four Course Foie Gras Prix-Fixe Dinner every Wednesday Night\u003c/strong> ($55 per person). The menu rotates on a weekly basis. All their foie gras is sourced from \u003ca href=\"http://www.artisanfoiegras.com/\">Sonoma Artisan Foie Gras\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*****\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the day, it's hard to weigh in on this controversial topic. It's a debate that has gotten \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2003/08/22/BA266523.DTL&ao=all\">ugly\u003c/a> before, even here in San Francisco, a place many of us like to consider above average on the tolerant and progressive scale. Will I start getting hate mail because I find foie gras delicious? (I really hope not). Is eating and enjoying foie gras ethical? Do animals suffer for my gastronomic pleasure? Are there more important issues concerning our nation's food systems that could benefit from all this energy debating foie gras? As someone who cares about what I eat, these are the questions I ask myself. At the same time, as someone who values the freedom of choice, S.B. 1520 sure feels like a slippery slope. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why not focus on responsible and humane farming? Crafting standards, promoting reform, supporting farmers who are treating their animals with care -- that sounds like a more productive, long-term plan than outright prohibition. \u003ca href=\"http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/dailydish/2012/04/in-favor-of-foie-gras-ken-frank-speaks-out.html\">Ken Frank\u003c/a>, chef of Napa Valley's \u003ca href=\"http://latoque.com/\">La Toque\u003c/a> recently wrote to the \u003cem>Los Angeles Times\u003c/em>:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\nLet’s repeal AB 1520 [\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://leginfo.legislature.ca.gov/faces/billNavClient.xhtml?bill_id=200320040SB1520\">sic\u003c/a>\u003c/em>], which will create the biggest black market since Prohibition, and replace it with the world’s highest standards for humane foie gras. A black market removes any incentive to treat the animals well and focuses instead on \"not getting caught.\" To be clear, it will not help the ducks. I’m advocating a \"win-win.\" Every chef I know supports humane farming. We’ll be happy to work with Mr. Burton and others that support humane farming to craft standards that establish California as the global leader in Humane Foie Gras.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\"\u003ca href=\"http://vegan.com/blog/2012/04/12/the-biggest-black-market-since-prohibition/\">The biggest black market since Prohibition\u003c/a>\" may be an exaggeration, given the market size of people who consume foie gras is a fraction of those who consumed alcohol during Prohibition, but the point is made. There will be a black market, and what will be the consequences of it? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'll leave you with this \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/02/01/foie-gras-duck-duck-goose/\">incredible story\u003c/a>. There is a man in the western region of Spain they call the \u003cstrong>Goose Whisperer\u003c/strong>. He cares for what may be the happiest geese in the world. They gorge on acorns and olives, figs too. They feel safe. They call to their wild brethren above and tell them to come down and join them in paradise, where they are protected and there is plenty of good food to eat. They are not force fed by humans. They produce the sweetest, richest, most sublime tasting liver possible. If we could figure out how to replicate this kind of foie gras farming, now that would be something. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Foie for Thought:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/talks/dan_barber_s_surprising_foie_gras_parable.html\">Dan Barber's Foie Gras Parable on TED Talks\u003c/a> – Ecological, ethical, possible\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,1919163,00.html\">Can Ethical Foie Gras Happen in America?\u003c/a> – The Goose Whisperer comes to New York\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/foie_gras_countdown/\">Sfoodie’s Foie Gras Countdown\u003c/a> – Where to get your foie fill before 7/1\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/food-news/105127/how-to-store-foie-gras/\">Russell Jackson, chef-owner of Lafitte, on How to Store Foie Gras\u003c/a> – Preparing for Foiemageddon\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The countdown to California’s ban on foie gras, slated for July 1, has foie gras lovers eager to indulge while they can. A look at what chefs are saying about the ban, and a peek into what the future may hold.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-17.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-17.jpg\" alt=\"txoko foie gras dinner\" title=\"txoko foie gras dinner\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41537\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Petit Sale, Foie Gras a la Plancha with Lentils at Txoko\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We hurried along in the cloak of darkness, skirting the lamp posts, our footsteps echoing on the wet cobblestone. We reached our destination, threw a quick look over our shoulders to make sure we weren’t being followed, and then approached the discreet door, solid, bolted. One long knock followed by three swift knocks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Password: \u003cem>quack quack\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003cstrong>foie gras dinner\u003c/strong> awaits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*****\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ok, so maybe it wasn’t quite so dramatic. But with California’s upcoming \u003cstrong>ban on foie gras\u003c/strong> slated for July 1 (\u003ca href=\"http://leginfo.legislature.ca.gov/faces/billNavClient.xhtml?bill_id=200320040SB1520\">Senate Bill 1520\u003c/a>), who knows what kind of clandestine measures we’ll have to take to get a taste of the forbidden foie?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I predict a healthy black market, astronomic prices, and a resurgence of speakeasy grilles in the door design world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vivid imagination aside, the morality of producing, serving, and eating foie gras is a hotly debated, emotional topic from both sides. At the crux of the matter is the practice of \u003cem>gavage\u003c/em>, the use of a funnel inserted into the duck/goose’s esophagus to force-feed grain over the final few weeks of its life. Those in favor of the foie gras ban argue that the practice of gavage is cruel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those against the ban counter that the animals do not suffer from gavage because of a number of \u003ca href=\"http://www.artisanfoiegras.com/articles/GuemeneLetter.pdf\">physiological reasons\u003c/a>. The digestive tracts of duck and geese, and other similar water fowl, are made to accommodate the swallowing of large prey, whole. They lack a gag reflex. Their esophagus is not sensitive and is lined with keratin, not the delicate mucus membrane found in humans. Unlike humans, the opening of a duck’s trachea sits in the middle of their tongue. Because of this anatomical feature, their upper respiratory tract is not blocked during gavage, so they are able to breathe during the process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>High profile chefs have taken stances of the matter. In a letter to fellow California restaurateurs, \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2012/03/wolfgang_puck_sends_letter_to.php#more\">Wolfgang Puck\u003c/a> writes: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\nAs a chef, a businessman, and someone who cares about the humane treatment of animals, I'm writing to let you know why I support this particular law, and why I hope you'll give it your full support, as well…We chefs have the ability to create delicious and original dishes our customers will love without causing torment to animals.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chicagotribune.com/features/chi-0504070058apr07,0,3549007.story?page=1\">Charlie Trotter\u003c/a> has also vocally spoken out against foie gras, while \u003ca href=\"http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/04/06/table-talk-frere-jacques/\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a> calls California’s banning of foie gras \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\nTotally ridiculous.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>The debate over the ethics of foie gras is full of passionate opinions, but California’s ban brings up another issue of \u003cstrong>choice\u003c/strong>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://incanto.biz/2009/02/01/shock-foie/\">Mark Pastore\u003c/a>, co-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://incanto.biz/\">Incanto\u003c/a>, brings this point to light: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\nReasonable people can disagree over the ethics of one’s chosen diet and the various practices of farmers, whether those farmers produce meat, fruits, or vegetables. Fundamentally, we believe that individuals ought to be free to determine how to live their lives, including their diet… \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We respect the right to oppose the production and consumption of foie gras. We relate to many of the reasons that some choose to do so. However, we no more cede control over our morality than we would presume to compel someone else to conform to our notions of how they ought to live their life. We do not grant permission to someone who has no legal, moral, or spiritual authority to impose their beliefs upon us, whether that person is demanding we adopt their point of view regarding foie gras, abortion, or what books we should read. These are all personal choices and should remain so.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-3.jpg\" alt=\"Txoko, SF\" title=\"Txoko, SF\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41532\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Foie Gras Dinner, Txoko SF\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While many restaurants have already started taking foie gras off their menu, others have done the exact opposite, choosing to honor the luscious lobe with special foie-centric menus. From the looks of the sold-out events, the countdown to July 1 has foie gras lovers eager to indulge while they can. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This month, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/06/10/dishcrawl-real-life-culinary-social-networking/\">Dishcrawl\u003c/a> is hosting a \u003ca href=\"http://www.dishcrawl.com/foiebattle/\">Foie Battle\u003c/a> -- a series of intimate foie gras dinners featuring various chefs at secret locations throughout the Bay Area. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/txoko-at-bar.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/txoko-at-bar.jpg\" alt=\"Txoko at bar\" title=\"Txoko at bar\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41539\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Txoko, SF\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I attended one of these dinners last week at \u003ca href=\"http://www.txokosf.com/\">Txoko\u003c/a> (pronounced \u003cem>CHO-ko\u003c/em>). The Basque-inspired restaurant is owned by \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2012/03/29/why-we-serve-foie-gras/\">Ryan Maxey\u003c/a> and chef \u003cstrong>Ian Begg\u003c/strong>, the same guys behind \u003ca href=\"http://www.nakedlunchsf.com/\">Naked Lunch\u003c/a> (and its claim to fame, the \u003cstrong>Foie Gras & Duck Prosciutto Sandwich\u003c/strong>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-11.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-11.jpg\" alt=\"Txoko bar\" title=\"Txoko bar\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41534\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Txoko Bar\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cocktails by bar master \u003cstrong>Jason Brown\u003c/strong> are creative and dangerously tasty. I tried the \u003cstrong>Cool Hand Luke Fizz\u003c/strong>, made with Fighting Cock Bourbon, bitters, Mexican Coke, and frothy egg whites. Basically a bourbon float. Happy times. I’m already looking forward to future pintxos-laden happy hours so I can sample a few more of Brown’s concoctions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-8-v2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-8-v2.jpg\" alt=\"Glazed Marin Miyagi Oyster in Foie Gras Cream\" title=\"Glazed Marin Miyagi Oyster in Foie Gras Cream\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41533\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Glazed Marin Miyagi Oyster in Foie Gras Cream\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our decadent meal started off with a \u003cstrong>Glazed Marin Miyagi Oyster\u003c/strong> floating in a pool of \u003cstrong>foie gras cream\u003c/strong>, garnished with pickled cucumber, a chiffonade of anise-y flavored shiso, and vibrant droplets of chili oil. The starter was well-balanced and full of bright flavors to whet our palate. My dining partners and I all noticed that the foie gras cream had a familiar tang to it. After a few moments of flipping through my brain’s Filofax of flavor recognition, I had the answer: \u003cstrong>White Cheddar Cheez-Its\u003c/strong>. There was unanimous agreement that I was indeed spot-on correct. We called Ryan over to confirm. He insisted the cream was just made of foie renderings and cream…let’s just agree to disagree, Ryan. We know there’s pulverized Cheez-Its in there. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-13.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-13.jpg\" alt=\"Salt Cured Foie Gras Torchon\" title=\"Salt Cured Foie Gras Torchon\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41535\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Salt Cured Foie Gras Torchon\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next came a \u003cstrong>Salt Cured Foie Gras Torchon\u003c/strong> with toasted almonds, muscato gelee, and arugula, over toasted pain de mie and slices of meyer lemon. The flavor of the foie gras torchon was beautiful, like salted butter set out on a path of seduction. The muscato gelee was a playful touch, cool on the tongue and brought out the sweetness of the meyer lemon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-16.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-16.jpg\" alt=\"Pan Seared Day Boat Scallop\" title=\"Pan Seared Day Boat Scallop\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41536\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pan Seared Day Boat Scallop in Foie Sauce\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pan Seared Day Boat Scallop\u003c/strong> graced our table next, nestled over velvety potato coulis and hen of the woods cooked in a \u003cstrong>foie gras sauce\u003c/strong> fragranced with sage. The foie flavor was subdued in this dish and had to be sought out. The hen of the woods shone. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The big foie finish was the \u003cstrong>Petit Sale\u003c/strong>, a, eye-popping portion of gorgeously seared \u003cstrong>Foie Gras a la Plancha\u003c/strong>, over a bed of creamy beluga lentils, fava beans, green garlic, and mirepoix. A few rosettes of sweet duck jamon (translation for Italians: duck prosciutto) adorned the plate. The crowning jewel was a perfect crispy puff of \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/chicharrones-2.jpg\">4505 chicharrone\u003c/a>. The dish was at once fresh and Spring and luxuriously rich. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-18-v2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/2012-04-txoko-dishcrawl-foie-battle-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-18-v2.jpg\" alt=\"Foie Gras Ice Cream\" title=\"Foie Gras Ice Cream\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41538\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Foie Gras Ice Cream\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know you’ve been wondering this whole time how a foie gras dessert would pan out. The answer is \u003cstrong>Foie Gras Ice Cream\u003c/strong>. Before you cringe, hear me out. I’ve tried sweets made with duck fat before…and it is a fine line. It takes restraint and the right flavor pairings to make it work. Txoko’s Foie Gras Ice Cream succeeds in doing just that. The foie flavor in the ice cream is subtle, so that you’re delighted when you look for it. It tastes vaguely of toasted nuts and coconut milk. The ice cream base is made with cream and foie gras renderings (similar to the foie cream in our first course, minus the Cheez-Its of course). Caramel-y prunes in syrup and bits of buttery shortbread cookies accompany the ice cream for a perfect ending to the meal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From now until July 1, you can savor your forbidden foie gras at \u003ca href=\"http://www.txokosf.com/\">Txoko\u003c/a> -- their signature dish on the regular menu is \u003cstrong>Foie Gras a la Plancha\u003c/strong>, served with golden raisin sauce, caramelized Brussels sprouts, pain de mie, and duck prosciutto. They also offer a \u003cstrong>Four Course Foie Gras Prix-Fixe Dinner every Wednesday Night\u003c/strong> ($55 per person). The menu rotates on a weekly basis. All their foie gras is sourced from \u003ca href=\"http://www.artisanfoiegras.com/\">Sonoma Artisan Foie Gras\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*****\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the day, it's hard to weigh in on this controversial topic. It's a debate that has gotten \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2003/08/22/BA266523.DTL&ao=all\">ugly\u003c/a> before, even here in San Francisco, a place many of us like to consider above average on the tolerant and progressive scale. Will I start getting hate mail because I find foie gras delicious? (I really hope not). Is eating and enjoying foie gras ethical? Do animals suffer for my gastronomic pleasure? Are there more important issues concerning our nation's food systems that could benefit from all this energy debating foie gras? As someone who cares about what I eat, these are the questions I ask myself. At the same time, as someone who values the freedom of choice, S.B. 1520 sure feels like a slippery slope. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why not focus on responsible and humane farming? Crafting standards, promoting reform, supporting farmers who are treating their animals with care -- that sounds like a more productive, long-term plan than outright prohibition. \u003ca href=\"http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/dailydish/2012/04/in-favor-of-foie-gras-ken-frank-speaks-out.html\">Ken Frank\u003c/a>, chef of Napa Valley's \u003ca href=\"http://latoque.com/\">La Toque\u003c/a> recently wrote to the \u003cem>Los Angeles Times\u003c/em>:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\nLet’s repeal AB 1520 [\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://leginfo.legislature.ca.gov/faces/billNavClient.xhtml?bill_id=200320040SB1520\">sic\u003c/a>\u003c/em>], which will create the biggest black market since Prohibition, and replace it with the world’s highest standards for humane foie gras. A black market removes any incentive to treat the animals well and focuses instead on \"not getting caught.\" To be clear, it will not help the ducks. I’m advocating a \"win-win.\" Every chef I know supports humane farming. We’ll be happy to work with Mr. Burton and others that support humane farming to craft standards that establish California as the global leader in Humane Foie Gras.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\"\u003ca href=\"http://vegan.com/blog/2012/04/12/the-biggest-black-market-since-prohibition/\">The biggest black market since Prohibition\u003c/a>\" may be an exaggeration, given the market size of people who consume foie gras is a fraction of those who consumed alcohol during Prohibition, but the point is made. There will be a black market, and what will be the consequences of it? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'll leave you with this \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/02/01/foie-gras-duck-duck-goose/\">incredible story\u003c/a>. There is a man in the western region of Spain they call the \u003cstrong>Goose Whisperer\u003c/strong>. He cares for what may be the happiest geese in the world. They gorge on acorns and olives, figs too. They feel safe. They call to their wild brethren above and tell them to come down and join them in paradise, where they are protected and there is plenty of good food to eat. They are not force fed by humans. They produce the sweetest, richest, most sublime tasting liver possible. If we could figure out how to replicate this kind of foie gras farming, now that would be something. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Foie for Thought:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/talks/dan_barber_s_surprising_foie_gras_parable.html\">Dan Barber's Foie Gras Parable on TED Talks\u003c/a> – Ecological, ethical, possible\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,1919163,00.html\">Can Ethical Foie Gras Happen in America?\u003c/a> – The Goose Whisperer comes to New York\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/foie_gras_countdown/\">Sfoodie’s Foie Gras Countdown\u003c/a> – Where to get your foie fill before 7/1\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/food-news/105127/how-to-store-foie-gras/\">Russell Jackson, chef-owner of Lafitte, on How to Store Foie Gras\u003c/a> – Preparing for Foiemageddon\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Chez Panisse Alum Cook Up Culinary Performance Art Evening",
"title": "Chez Panisse Alum Cook Up Culinary Performance Art Evening",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/lunch-table560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/lunch-table560.jpg\" alt=\"Lunch Table at Montalvo. Photo: Niki Ford\" title=\"Lunch Table at Montalvo. Photo: Niki Ford\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41604\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>An elegant table sets the scene for a simple lunch at Montalvo Arts Center. Photo: Niki Ford\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The lunch couldn't have been simpler: A green salad, a fried egg, and some spiced basmati rice with carrot and beet condiments and crispy fried onions. The long wooden table was piled high with pappadams, decorated with deeply-hued anenomes, and included elegantly whimsical, hand-drawn menus, courtesy of the chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Welcome to \u003ca href=\"http://montalvoarts.org/participants/niki_ford/\">Niki Ford\u003c/a>'s world. The \u003ca href=\"http://montalvoarts.org/\">Montalvo Arts Center\u003c/a> culinary fellow invited a group of media guests to lunch as part of a meet-and-greet in her new role at the international artists residency program in Saratoga. Ford's approach to cooking -- an aesthetic honed from six years in the kitchen at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/intro.php\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> -- is anything but fussy and full of flavor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many schooled in the Alice Waters approach to cooking, she allows the choicest ingredients with impeccable provenance to do the heavy lifting. That salad, for instance, included some 20 different kinds of greens grown by local gardener \u003ca href=\"http://eatsbyeden.blogspot.com/\">Eden Israel\u003c/a>, who provides produce to the artists program. And the eggs from \u003ca href=\"http://www.soulfoodfarm.com/\">Soul Food Farm\u003c/a> were fried by the farmer herself Alexis Koefoed. The meal wrapped up with orange and cardamom granita sweetened with honey from Montalvo's own bees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The arts center, celebrating its centennial this year, is located in the woodsy Saratoga hills a short hop from the heart of Silicon Valley. It's set on 175 meandering acres and includes an impressive kitchen garden. A grand Mediterranean-style, historic villa houses an international artist residency program for painters, musicians, writers, and such. The culinary fellowship, now in its ninth year, offers cooks like Ford the opportunity to explore sustainable food practices relevant to cultural life. For the artists in residence, the culinary fellowship means they know most nights someone else is putting dinner on the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With degrees in both fine and culinary arts, Ford seems like an ideal fit for the arts center's resident chef. In addition to cooking professionally, she performs conceptual art pieces and spends time exploring visual media through photography, printmaking, and drawing. And she's done stints cooking for creative types at the American Academy in Rome.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/niki-tamar.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/niki-tamar.jpg\" alt=\"Niki Ford and Tamar Adler. Photos: Courtesy of Montalvo Arts Center\" title=\"Niki Ford and Tamar Adler. Photos: Courtesy of Montalvo Arts Center\" width=\"532\" height=\"245\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41606\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Friends and fellow cooks, Niki Ford (left) and Tamar Adler (right) present \"Coming of Age in the Kitchen.\" Photo: Niki Ford (L): Kate Farnady, Photo Tamar Adler (R): Courtesy of Tamar Adler.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ford is mixing things up at Montalvo. Tonight, in the first of a series of culinary events she'll curate, she's cooking up an event with a fellow Chez alum, \u003ca href=\"http://www.tamareadler.com/\">Tamar Adler\u003c/a>, author of the widely acclaimed \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/An-Everlasting-Meal-Cooking-Economy/dp/143918187X\">\u003cem>An Everlasting Meal\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. The two friends and former restaurant mates will blend food, performance, and personal memoir in an evening dubbed \"Coming of Age in the Kitchen,\" which begins with a short story reading by author Adler from her childhood. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Adler has previously chronicled her adventures cooking with her brother -- \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilttaste.com/stories/2569-iacp-journalism-award-winner-sibling-rivalry-at-the-stove\">Sibling Rivalry at the Stove\u003c/a> -- in an award-winning story for \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilttaste.com/stories\">Gilt Taste\u003c/a>. Tonight's reading will be followed by a meal based on the story prepared by Ford -- and a surprise guest chef or two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's how the evening came about: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"A few months ago, when we were having dinner in New York, Niki stopped me in the middle of my telling her a story and proposed we bring it to a more animated life than my telling could,\" Adler explains. \"I loved her idea immediately: a sort of triple catharsis, for teller, listener, and eater of the meal around which the story revolves.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Cooking has always been considered a low art--there to support the high arts, like theater or music, adds Adler. \"But Niki is actually challenging that by having the reading of the story be the background to the meal,\" says the Brooklyn-based writer, who is reading from her book this Saturday at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> and teaching a class, \"How to Boil Water,\" on Monday at \u003ca href=\"http://www.brownpapertickets.com/event/232952\">18 Reasons\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"High and low are reversed here, or at least smashed up together a little in a way I find exciting.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Niki Ford spoke with \u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites\u003c/strong> this week about food, art, and her developing empathy for slugs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/cabbage.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/cabbage.jpg\" alt=\"produce still life. Photo: Niki Ford\" title=\"produce still life. Photo: Niki Ford\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41611\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Culinary artist Niki Ford creates still life images from her farmers' market finds. Photo: Niki Ford\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What does a typical day entail for you at Montalvo?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm responsible for making dinner for the artists here -- up to 15 people or so -- five nights a week. We're working through how I can make a meal for Friday -- maybe a soup cooked ahead -- so that that day is my own to explore and experiment with my art work. It's important to me that this fellowship allow that space. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, during the week I'm shopping, prepping, cooking, and serving the food at the table. I also sit with the artists at dinner and attempt to engage with them in a meaningful way about the program. But the truth is I'm often thinking things like: \"How long has that lamb been in the oven?\" So I'm constantly back and forth in the kitchen. I'm figuring out as I go along how to both make dinner and show up. I find the best conversations often happen after dinner over a glass of wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What kind of foods are you cooking for the fellows?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm relying on what I know, so there's a sense of ease and flow to most of the meals I'm making. I could just make dinner like a regular person, but I do enjoy a challenge and I have high standards. So it needs to be something that satisfies me creatively. So while my food is simple, there are often several components, and these take time to put together. I'm not sure I know how to make food like a regular person. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recently I've made pasta e fagioli, chicken saltimbocca, and potato, cabbage, and chickpea soup. I'm proud of my Italian ancestry and learned a lot in my travels there about the foods born of Italian peasants that are such beautiful poems. They really do know how to take nothing and make it into something so satisfying and nurturing. There's just something that happens with that soup where the liquids from the potatoes and chickpeas exchange and then marry into something that is greater than the sum of their parts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/meal.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/meal.jpg\" alt=\"meal. Photo: Niki Ford\" title=\"meal. Photo: Niki Ford\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41620\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ford favors simple, aesthetically-pleasing suppers with an emphasis on fresh produce. Photo: Niki Ford\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where do you find inspiration in the kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I can find it in the most unexpected places. I may try something new from cooking with things that people have left behind here. For instance, normally I wouldn't make Italian pasta with Thai red chilies -- I'm not a complete and utter purist but I do believe in traditions. But I mixed the two recently and I liked the greenness of the chilies -- not just the heat -- it was a lesson in not being rigid in the kitchen because it turned out kind of great.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Can you give us some context for tonight's event?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It happened very organically. The story will likely stir up emotions in the people who hear it and they'll take those feelings to the table and that will shape the way they connect to the food they're eating. I thought it would be interesting to explore that. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What creative projects are you working on?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm writing and illustrating a children's book about the soil nutrient cycle from the perspective of a slug. I'm growing my own plants here from seed and spending time in the garden. I'm watching the slugs eat things and I'm trying to have a compassionate attitude towards them. Slugs play an important function in nature --they tell us something about a plant's health. It's developing at it's own pace, which is to say a slug's pace, which I guess is apropo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's the story behind your Montalvo blog, \u003ca href=\"http://mountainsinmyspoon.wordpress.com/\">mountains in my spoon\u003c/a>?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The posts may serve as notes for a future cookbook. But more immediately the blog is a way for me to keep a record, and bare witness to what I'm doing here, and that inspires me in a different way in the kitchen. The notion of being seen beyond the people I make dinner for challenges me to be thoughtful about what I'm doing while I'm here every day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Details:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://montalvoarts.org/events/culinary_ford_adler/\">\"Coming of Age in the Kitchen\"\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nReading: Tamar Adler | Dinner: Niki Ford\u003cbr>\nThe Historic Villa, Montalvo Arts Center\u003cbr>\n15400 Montalvo Road, Saratoga\u003cbr>\nThursday, April 12, 7pm\u003cbr>\nGeneral: $65, Members: $50, Students with ID: $12\u003cbr>\nTickets: Montalvo Box Office, 10 am-4 pm 408-961-5858\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Two Chez Panisse alum -- Niki Ford and Tamar Adler -- cook up a culinary performance art event at Montalvo Arts Center in Saratoga, where Ford serves as the current culinary fellow for the artists in residence.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/lunch-table560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/lunch-table560.jpg\" alt=\"Lunch Table at Montalvo. Photo: Niki Ford\" title=\"Lunch Table at Montalvo. Photo: Niki Ford\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41604\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>An elegant table sets the scene for a simple lunch at Montalvo Arts Center. Photo: Niki Ford\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The lunch couldn't have been simpler: A green salad, a fried egg, and some spiced basmati rice with carrot and beet condiments and crispy fried onions. The long wooden table was piled high with pappadams, decorated with deeply-hued anenomes, and included elegantly whimsical, hand-drawn menus, courtesy of the chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Welcome to \u003ca href=\"http://montalvoarts.org/participants/niki_ford/\">Niki Ford\u003c/a>'s world. The \u003ca href=\"http://montalvoarts.org/\">Montalvo Arts Center\u003c/a> culinary fellow invited a group of media guests to lunch as part of a meet-and-greet in her new role at the international artists residency program in Saratoga. Ford's approach to cooking -- an aesthetic honed from six years in the kitchen at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/intro.php\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> -- is anything but fussy and full of flavor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many schooled in the Alice Waters approach to cooking, she allows the choicest ingredients with impeccable provenance to do the heavy lifting. That salad, for instance, included some 20 different kinds of greens grown by local gardener \u003ca href=\"http://eatsbyeden.blogspot.com/\">Eden Israel\u003c/a>, who provides produce to the artists program. And the eggs from \u003ca href=\"http://www.soulfoodfarm.com/\">Soul Food Farm\u003c/a> were fried by the farmer herself Alexis Koefoed. The meal wrapped up with orange and cardamom granita sweetened with honey from Montalvo's own bees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The arts center, celebrating its centennial this year, is located in the woodsy Saratoga hills a short hop from the heart of Silicon Valley. It's set on 175 meandering acres and includes an impressive kitchen garden. A grand Mediterranean-style, historic villa houses an international artist residency program for painters, musicians, writers, and such. The culinary fellowship, now in its ninth year, offers cooks like Ford the opportunity to explore sustainable food practices relevant to cultural life. For the artists in residence, the culinary fellowship means they know most nights someone else is putting dinner on the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With degrees in both fine and culinary arts, Ford seems like an ideal fit for the arts center's resident chef. In addition to cooking professionally, she performs conceptual art pieces and spends time exploring visual media through photography, printmaking, and drawing. And she's done stints cooking for creative types at the American Academy in Rome.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/niki-tamar.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/niki-tamar.jpg\" alt=\"Niki Ford and Tamar Adler. Photos: Courtesy of Montalvo Arts Center\" title=\"Niki Ford and Tamar Adler. Photos: Courtesy of Montalvo Arts Center\" width=\"532\" height=\"245\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41606\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Friends and fellow cooks, Niki Ford (left) and Tamar Adler (right) present \"Coming of Age in the Kitchen.\" Photo: Niki Ford (L): Kate Farnady, Photo Tamar Adler (R): Courtesy of Tamar Adler.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ford is mixing things up at Montalvo. Tonight, in the first of a series of culinary events she'll curate, she's cooking up an event with a fellow Chez alum, \u003ca href=\"http://www.tamareadler.com/\">Tamar Adler\u003c/a>, author of the widely acclaimed \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/An-Everlasting-Meal-Cooking-Economy/dp/143918187X\">\u003cem>An Everlasting Meal\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. The two friends and former restaurant mates will blend food, performance, and personal memoir in an evening dubbed \"Coming of Age in the Kitchen,\" which begins with a short story reading by author Adler from her childhood. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Adler has previously chronicled her adventures cooking with her brother -- \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilttaste.com/stories/2569-iacp-journalism-award-winner-sibling-rivalry-at-the-stove\">Sibling Rivalry at the Stove\u003c/a> -- in an award-winning story for \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilttaste.com/stories\">Gilt Taste\u003c/a>. Tonight's reading will be followed by a meal based on the story prepared by Ford -- and a surprise guest chef or two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's how the evening came about: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"A few months ago, when we were having dinner in New York, Niki stopped me in the middle of my telling her a story and proposed we bring it to a more animated life than my telling could,\" Adler explains. \"I loved her idea immediately: a sort of triple catharsis, for teller, listener, and eater of the meal around which the story revolves.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Cooking has always been considered a low art--there to support the high arts, like theater or music, adds Adler. \"But Niki is actually challenging that by having the reading of the story be the background to the meal,\" says the Brooklyn-based writer, who is reading from her book this Saturday at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> and teaching a class, \"How to Boil Water,\" on Monday at \u003ca href=\"http://www.brownpapertickets.com/event/232952\">18 Reasons\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"High and low are reversed here, or at least smashed up together a little in a way I find exciting.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Niki Ford spoke with \u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites\u003c/strong> this week about food, art, and her developing empathy for slugs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/cabbage.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/cabbage.jpg\" alt=\"produce still life. Photo: Niki Ford\" title=\"produce still life. Photo: Niki Ford\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41611\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Culinary artist Niki Ford creates still life images from her farmers' market finds. Photo: Niki Ford\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What does a typical day entail for you at Montalvo?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm responsible for making dinner for the artists here -- up to 15 people or so -- five nights a week. We're working through how I can make a meal for Friday -- maybe a soup cooked ahead -- so that that day is my own to explore and experiment with my art work. It's important to me that this fellowship allow that space. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, during the week I'm shopping, prepping, cooking, and serving the food at the table. I also sit with the artists at dinner and attempt to engage with them in a meaningful way about the program. But the truth is I'm often thinking things like: \"How long has that lamb been in the oven?\" So I'm constantly back and forth in the kitchen. I'm figuring out as I go along how to both make dinner and show up. I find the best conversations often happen after dinner over a glass of wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What kind of foods are you cooking for the fellows?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm relying on what I know, so there's a sense of ease and flow to most of the meals I'm making. I could just make dinner like a regular person, but I do enjoy a challenge and I have high standards. So it needs to be something that satisfies me creatively. So while my food is simple, there are often several components, and these take time to put together. I'm not sure I know how to make food like a regular person. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recently I've made pasta e fagioli, chicken saltimbocca, and potato, cabbage, and chickpea soup. I'm proud of my Italian ancestry and learned a lot in my travels there about the foods born of Italian peasants that are such beautiful poems. They really do know how to take nothing and make it into something so satisfying and nurturing. There's just something that happens with that soup where the liquids from the potatoes and chickpeas exchange and then marry into something that is greater than the sum of their parts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/meal.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/meal.jpg\" alt=\"meal. Photo: Niki Ford\" title=\"meal. Photo: Niki Ford\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41620\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ford favors simple, aesthetically-pleasing suppers with an emphasis on fresh produce. Photo: Niki Ford\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where do you find inspiration in the kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I can find it in the most unexpected places. I may try something new from cooking with things that people have left behind here. For instance, normally I wouldn't make Italian pasta with Thai red chilies -- I'm not a complete and utter purist but I do believe in traditions. But I mixed the two recently and I liked the greenness of the chilies -- not just the heat -- it was a lesson in not being rigid in the kitchen because it turned out kind of great.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Can you give us some context for tonight's event?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It happened very organically. The story will likely stir up emotions in the people who hear it and they'll take those feelings to the table and that will shape the way they connect to the food they're eating. I thought it would be interesting to explore that. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What creative projects are you working on?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm writing and illustrating a children's book about the soil nutrient cycle from the perspective of a slug. I'm growing my own plants here from seed and spending time in the garden. I'm watching the slugs eat things and I'm trying to have a compassionate attitude towards them. Slugs play an important function in nature --they tell us something about a plant's health. It's developing at it's own pace, which is to say a slug's pace, which I guess is apropo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's the story behind your Montalvo blog, \u003ca href=\"http://mountainsinmyspoon.wordpress.com/\">mountains in my spoon\u003c/a>?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The posts may serve as notes for a future cookbook. But more immediately the blog is a way for me to keep a record, and bare witness to what I'm doing here, and that inspires me in a different way in the kitchen. The notion of being seen beyond the people I make dinner for challenges me to be thoughtful about what I'm doing while I'm here every day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Details:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://montalvoarts.org/events/culinary_ford_adler/\">\"Coming of Age in the Kitchen\"\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nReading: Tamar Adler | Dinner: Niki Ford\u003cbr>\nThe Historic Villa, Montalvo Arts Center\u003cbr>\n15400 Montalvo Road, Saratoga\u003cbr>\nThursday, April 12, 7pm\u003cbr>\nGeneral: $65, Members: $50, Students with ID: $12\u003cbr>\nTickets: Montalvo Box Office, 10 am-4 pm 408-961-5858\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "S+S Gastro Grub Plays Molecular Masquerade",
"title": "S+S Gastro Grub Plays Molecular Masquerade",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/steak-tartare.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41415\" title='steak \"tartare\"' src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/steak-tartare.jpg\" alt='steak \"tartare\"' width=\"560\" height=\"417\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>All photos courtesy S+S Gastro Grub\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tempted to pass up that plate of lurid, crimson steak tartare topped by a blob of saffron egg yolk? Not so fast. If it came from the kitchen of Simone Fung and Sebastian Mendieta—collectively known as \u003ca href=\"http://www.ssgastrogrub.com/\">S+S Gastro Grub\u003c/a>—this may very well be dessert. The Oakland catering couple loves to concoct dishes that trick the eye, but treat the palate and the “tartare” in question is actually chopped compressed watermelon crowned with a golden orb of mango juice and mint shards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Simone-and-Sebastian.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41416\" title=\"Simone and Sebastian\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Simone-and-Sebastian.jpg\" alt=\"Simone and Sebastian\" width=\"400\" height=\"561\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>S + S have been thrilling diners at local pop-ups, underground dinners, fundraising events and private parties with sublime creations that employ the techniques of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molecular_gastronomy\">molecular gastronomy\u003c/a>, spherification and sous vide cookery since 2007. For years, the couple indulged their mutual passion for edible inventiveness by throwing large parties in their live-work artist loft. Finally, their enthusiastic friends convinced them to start a business and they acquired a shiny black catering van in 2011.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the moment, however, both have day jobs: Fung is office manager for a San Jose semi-conductor company, while Mendieta works as logistics coordinator for a heavy construction firm. So their food-transforming forays are reserved for evenings, weekends and holidays. But their popularity is spreading as quickly as the uni sauce under their perfectly seared scallops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/scallops_uni_sauce.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41417\" title=\"scallops_uni_sauce\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/scallops_uni_sauce.jpg\" alt=\"scallops_uni_sauce\" width=\"560\" height=\"444\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>pan seared jumbo day boat scallops with uni sauce and nori potatoes\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The duo has cooked at fundraisers for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sffoodbank.org/\">San Francisco Food Bank\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.oldskoolcafe.org/\">Old Skool Café\u003c/a>, been part of \u003ca href=\"http://www.food-social.org/\">Food Social\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.behindthecart.com/\">Behind the Cart\u003c/a>, done a Japanese themed pop-up dinner at (where else?) a Mexican restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cosechacafe.com/#!\">Cosecha\u003c/a>, as well as catered birthday celebrations, showers, and outdoor park festivities. With their multi-cultural backgrounds—she grew up in Hong Kong and he in a tiny town in Nicaragua—and extensive global street food research in travels from Malaysia to Jamaica, they resist getting stuck in a narrowly defined cultural corner. Their edible creations traverse the map and sometimes fuse elements from their two food heritages—as in marinated, sous vide, duck-tongue tacos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41445\" title='\"tuna belly\"' src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/tuna-belly1.jpg\" alt='\"tuna belly\"' width=\"560\" height=\"457\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>something is fishy here (or not)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>Fung says with a twinkle, \"We like to trick people's eyes and minds. Sometimes we serve dishes without telling guests what they're eating. They think they know but then they're surprised when what they taste doesn't match what they were expecting.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>A good example is their \"tuna belly\" which is actually made from compressed watermelon that has been chilled until it is pliable, then seared with a combination of fish sauce, honey and lime juice. It's savory, no wait it's sweet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/mojito_dessert1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41447\" title=\"mojito_dessert\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/mojito_dessert1.jpg\" alt=\"mojito_dessert\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mojito mix-up\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>S+S’s home “test kitchen” is stocked with the latest gadgets and materials necessary to perform this culinary legerdemain. Sous vide cooking slowly transforms an egg into a silky custard by a carefully controlled 50 minutes at the magic mark of 63 degrees. Spherification shapes liquids into caviar-like balls that can resemble something else; for example, carrot juice balls sprinkled on a salad convince diners they'll be crunching on tobiko. A recently devised molecular mojito dessert combines lime sorbet, mint foam, rum spheres, and a sprinkle of pop rocks to deliver a roller coaster ride of taste and textures. Inspired by farmers' markets and committed to sourcing ingredients from a 150-mile radius, S+S Gastro Grub supports local food purveyors and artisans such as Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://thelocalbutchershop.com/\">The Local Butcher\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/crispy_pork_belly-63-degree-egg.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41420\" title=\"crispy_pork_belly, 63 degree egg\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/crispy_pork_belly-63-degree-egg.jpg\" alt=\"crispy_pork_belly, 63 degree egg\" width=\"560\" height=\"412\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>63-degree egg, pork belly, creamy grits, jus, kimchee puree\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fung and Mendieta aim for modern interpretations of classic comfort food: think gumbo potpie, with okra and crawfish, mac and cheese with cold smoked pasta with a surprise hickory kick at the end. Another popular party starter is their mobile pig roaster--a charcoal-fired Dutch oven on wheels--in which they can roast a succulent whole pig or lamb at a catering venue. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/foie_croque.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41421\" title=\"foie_croque\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/foie_croque.jpg\" alt=\"foie_croque\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This is not dessert\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their motto, “oaktown flava. napa roots,” pays homage to their favorite local eateries: Commis, Plum, and Camino, plus inspiration gleaned from Napa Valley’s Ad Hoc and The French Laundry. The duo’s dream is to expand their catering business and set up a cooking school for troubled Oakland youth. Meanwhile, watch out: that cream puff that looks like it’s filled with coffee ice cream and drizzled with chocolate syrup is actually a savory cheese puff injected with foie gras mousse topped by rivulets of maple balsamic sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next event: Friday April 20, 5-8pm, at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lindenbeer.com/\">Linden Street Brewery\u003c/a>, S+S will offer their pickled quail eggs, bone-in pork chop buns, edamame and black bean sliders and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ssgastrogrub.com/\">S+S Gastro Grub\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n(510) 969-9434\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/ssgastrogrub\">ssgastrogrub\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter:\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/ssgastrogrub\">@ssgastrogrub\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Foods that trick the eye and please the palate appeal to caterers Simone Fung and Sebastian Mendieta of S+S Gastro Grub. Their inventive dishes, which often use the techniques of molecular gastronomy, sous vide cooking and spherification, surprise and delight diners at pop ups, underground dinners and fundraisers around the Bay. They also do a succulent roast pork on their mobile pig roaster.",
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"description": "Foods that trick the eye and please the palate appeal to caterers Simone Fung and Sebastian Mendieta of S+S Gastro Grub. Their inventive dishes, which often use the techniques of molecular gastronomy, sous vide cooking and spherification, surprise and delight diners at pop ups, underground dinners and fundraisers around the Bay. They also do a succulent roast pork on their mobile pig roaster.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/steak-tartare.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41415\" title='steak \"tartare\"' src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/steak-tartare.jpg\" alt='steak \"tartare\"' width=\"560\" height=\"417\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>All photos courtesy S+S Gastro Grub\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tempted to pass up that plate of lurid, crimson steak tartare topped by a blob of saffron egg yolk? Not so fast. If it came from the kitchen of Simone Fung and Sebastian Mendieta—collectively known as \u003ca href=\"http://www.ssgastrogrub.com/\">S+S Gastro Grub\u003c/a>—this may very well be dessert. The Oakland catering couple loves to concoct dishes that trick the eye, but treat the palate and the “tartare” in question is actually chopped compressed watermelon crowned with a golden orb of mango juice and mint shards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Simone-and-Sebastian.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41416\" title=\"Simone and Sebastian\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/Simone-and-Sebastian.jpg\" alt=\"Simone and Sebastian\" width=\"400\" height=\"561\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>S + S have been thrilling diners at local pop-ups, underground dinners, fundraising events and private parties with sublime creations that employ the techniques of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molecular_gastronomy\">molecular gastronomy\u003c/a>, spherification and sous vide cookery since 2007. For years, the couple indulged their mutual passion for edible inventiveness by throwing large parties in their live-work artist loft. Finally, their enthusiastic friends convinced them to start a business and they acquired a shiny black catering van in 2011.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the moment, however, both have day jobs: Fung is office manager for a San Jose semi-conductor company, while Mendieta works as logistics coordinator for a heavy construction firm. So their food-transforming forays are reserved for evenings, weekends and holidays. But their popularity is spreading as quickly as the uni sauce under their perfectly seared scallops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/scallops_uni_sauce.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41417\" title=\"scallops_uni_sauce\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/scallops_uni_sauce.jpg\" alt=\"scallops_uni_sauce\" width=\"560\" height=\"444\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>pan seared jumbo day boat scallops with uni sauce and nori potatoes\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The duo has cooked at fundraisers for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sffoodbank.org/\">San Francisco Food Bank\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.oldskoolcafe.org/\">Old Skool Café\u003c/a>, been part of \u003ca href=\"http://www.food-social.org/\">Food Social\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.behindthecart.com/\">Behind the Cart\u003c/a>, done a Japanese themed pop-up dinner at (where else?) a Mexican restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cosechacafe.com/#!\">Cosecha\u003c/a>, as well as catered birthday celebrations, showers, and outdoor park festivities. With their multi-cultural backgrounds—she grew up in Hong Kong and he in a tiny town in Nicaragua—and extensive global street food research in travels from Malaysia to Jamaica, they resist getting stuck in a narrowly defined cultural corner. Their edible creations traverse the map and sometimes fuse elements from their two food heritages—as in marinated, sous vide, duck-tongue tacos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41445\" title='\"tuna belly\"' src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/tuna-belly1.jpg\" alt='\"tuna belly\"' width=\"560\" height=\"457\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>something is fishy here (or not)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>Fung says with a twinkle, \"We like to trick people's eyes and minds. Sometimes we serve dishes without telling guests what they're eating. They think they know but then they're surprised when what they taste doesn't match what they were expecting.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>A good example is their \"tuna belly\" which is actually made from compressed watermelon that has been chilled until it is pliable, then seared with a combination of fish sauce, honey and lime juice. It's savory, no wait it's sweet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/mojito_dessert1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41447\" title=\"mojito_dessert\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/mojito_dessert1.jpg\" alt=\"mojito_dessert\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mojito mix-up\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>S+S’s home “test kitchen” is stocked with the latest gadgets and materials necessary to perform this culinary legerdemain. Sous vide cooking slowly transforms an egg into a silky custard by a carefully controlled 50 minutes at the magic mark of 63 degrees. Spherification shapes liquids into caviar-like balls that can resemble something else; for example, carrot juice balls sprinkled on a salad convince diners they'll be crunching on tobiko. A recently devised molecular mojito dessert combines lime sorbet, mint foam, rum spheres, and a sprinkle of pop rocks to deliver a roller coaster ride of taste and textures. Inspired by farmers' markets and committed to sourcing ingredients from a 150-mile radius, S+S Gastro Grub supports local food purveyors and artisans such as Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://thelocalbutchershop.com/\">The Local Butcher\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/crispy_pork_belly-63-degree-egg.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41420\" title=\"crispy_pork_belly, 63 degree egg\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/crispy_pork_belly-63-degree-egg.jpg\" alt=\"crispy_pork_belly, 63 degree egg\" width=\"560\" height=\"412\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>63-degree egg, pork belly, creamy grits, jus, kimchee puree\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fung and Mendieta aim for modern interpretations of classic comfort food: think gumbo potpie, with okra and crawfish, mac and cheese with cold smoked pasta with a surprise hickory kick at the end. Another popular party starter is their mobile pig roaster--a charcoal-fired Dutch oven on wheels--in which they can roast a succulent whole pig or lamb at a catering venue. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/foie_croque.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-41421\" title=\"foie_croque\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/04/foie_croque.jpg\" alt=\"foie_croque\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This is not dessert\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their motto, “oaktown flava. napa roots,” pays homage to their favorite local eateries: Commis, Plum, and Camino, plus inspiration gleaned from Napa Valley’s Ad Hoc and The French Laundry. The duo’s dream is to expand their catering business and set up a cooking school for troubled Oakland youth. Meanwhile, watch out: that cream puff that looks like it’s filled with coffee ice cream and drizzled with chocolate syrup is actually a savory cheese puff injected with foie gras mousse topped by rivulets of maple balsamic sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next event: Friday April 20, 5-8pm, at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lindenbeer.com/\">Linden Street Brewery\u003c/a>, S+S will offer their pickled quail eggs, bone-in pork chop buns, edamame and black bean sliders and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ssgastrogrub.com/\">S+S Gastro Grub\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n(510) 969-9434\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/ssgastrogrub\">ssgastrogrub\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter:\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/ssgastrogrub\">@ssgastrogrub\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Iso Rabins of forageSF plans his next “foodtrepreneur” venture: Forage Kitchen",
"title": "Iso Rabins of forageSF plans his next “foodtrepreneur” venture: Forage Kitchen",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/isointro560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/isointro560.jpg\" alt=\"Iso Rabins\" title=\"Iso Rabins\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40860\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/\">forageSF\u003c/a> founder Iso Rabins. All photos courtesy forageSF.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nBorn in Santa Cruz and raised on the East Coast, Iso Rabins always knew he wanted to return to California after college. What he didn’t know was that he’d be making a living out of what he found in the woods. Staying with his father in the woods east of Eureka, CA, Rabins learned to forage mushrooms and began to drive them down to San Francisco to sell at the back doors of restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Black trumpets, hedgehogs, chanterelles,” Rabins recalls. “\u003ca href=\"http://www.offalgood.com/\">Chris Cosentino\u003c/a> was one of the first guys to buy from me. He seemed pretty into it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/mushies5601.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/mushies5601.jpg\" alt=\"Foraged mushrooms\" title=\"Foraged mushrooms\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40864\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Foraged mushrooms ready for sale.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rabins, who would “cold call chefs and show up at the back door with a flat of mushrooms,” counted \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/intro.php\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzaiolooakland.com/\">Pizzaiolo\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://emmysspaghettishack.com/\">Emmy's Spaghetti Shack\u003c/a> among his regular clients. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But mushroom season is short in California, and Rabins had a knack for foraging.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I realized that for rest of the year, you can forage too!” he says. Wild greens, acorns, and seaweed made it onto his short list of items to gather in the woods. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I grew up in Vermont but I wasn't really a woods guy,” says Rabins. “It's cool when I go back now to visit my mom, I see so much more than I saw before. There are ramps everywhere!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Foraging gives you a real awareness of your surroundings. You notice things you'd never seen before.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Rabins started a “CSF” (Community Supported Forage) box program, similar to a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Community-supported_agricultur\">CSA\u003c/a> box you’d get from a farm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I wanted to sell at the farmer's markets but people get freaked out by wild mushrooms,” he said. So then, he started the \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/market/\">underground market\u003c/a>. The event, which ran for eighteen months, was a space for people who are making food at home to be able to sell it. Morphing from a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/29/underground-farmers-market/\">private house in the Mission\u003c/a>, to which 150 people showed up to a 2,500 person private club held at \u003ca href=\"http://publicsf.com/\">Public Works\u003c/a>, the underground market was eventually shut down by the Health Department. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/food-market560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/food-market560.jpg\" alt=\"Underground Market\" title=\"Underground Market\" width=\"560\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40867\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hungry patrons wait outside the Underground Market in 2010.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nThree years ago, Rabins started the \u003ca href=\"http://wildkitchen.wordpress.com/\">Wild Kitchen\u003c/a>, a series of wild foraged underground dinners. Each of the eight courses focuses on a couple of wild ingredients that Rabins collects; he cooks with co-chef Thomas Martinez, formerly of \u003ca href=\"http://www.missionbeachcafesf.com/\">Mission Beach Cafe\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartartine.com/\">Bar Tartine\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The focus for Rabins and the rest of the \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/\">forageSF\u003c/a> crew now, is shifting toward an “incubator kitchen,” a concept Rabins is developing based off of the model of \u003ca href=\"http://techshop.ws/\">Tech Shop\u003c/a>. For around $100 monthly, members can use industrial design equipment and receive help with their projects. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Commercial kitchens aren't welcoming to non-professionals,” Rabins explains. “We all have these little apartment kitchens, which are not cohesive to cooking large amounts of food.”\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/an-incubator-kitchen/fundraising-for-forage-kitchen/\">Forage Kitchen\u003c/a> is intended to be a “hub for food.” The shared-use commercial kitchen will have office space and offer consulting to people who are starting their own food businesses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When you're starting your own food business there is so much bureaucracy and red tape,” says Rabins. “There is so much hassle and you're generally trying to do it all on your own, so it's really disheartening.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forage Kitchen will be a space for people to work alongside each other. “People talk a lot about the food community in SF, but more realistically it's a lot of people doing the same stuff on their own in the same city,” Rabins says. A lot of small-business food entrepreneurs, Rabins says, know each other but don’t meet up. Being around others who “are going through the same stuff, and learning the same stuff” will be beneficial to both the small businesspeople and to the larger SF food community as a whole. Beyond Forage Kitchen being for small businesses, though, Rabins sees it as a welcoming space for individuals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though Forage Kitchen is still several months away from opening, Rabins is just starting to fundraise now. He hasn’t begun applying for any licenses yet but there is a space the foragers are eyeballing. “Think 10,000 square feet in SOMA, with space for a rooftop garden and a temperature-controlled room to hang meats and cure prosciutto,” Rabins says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/utopia560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/utopia560.jpg\" alt=\"utopia\" title=\"utopia\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40869\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Diners will eventually enjoy the fruits of local labor at the Forage Kitchen.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nAnother dream is to have a “home brew room,” where novice brewmeisters can produce beer, and a café in front that will sell the wares made on site. When will this utopian place open? “Hopefully within a year,” Rabins says. “It’s amazing how difficult the city makes these things,” he sighs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though getting an independent food business off the ground in San Francisco can be filled with trials and tribulations, Rabins has persevered. His methods of success?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I've always kept my business really light,” he explains. “If I was doing something, and it wasn't working, I could easily change course. I have tried to follow my interests the whole way.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I think the most important thing to be successful is to follow your own passion.”\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>For now, Rabins is getting the word out about the \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/an-incubator-kitchen/fundraising-for-forage-kitchen/\">Forage Kitchen\u003c/a> through forageSF events like Wild-boar scavenger hunts, “Gypsy Jazz pig roasts,” and Basque family-style feasts. Although this weekend’s Basque feasts are sold out there will be future fundraising events to get the Forage Kitchen project off the ground. To be among the first to know about upcoming events subscribe to the \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/\">forageSF email list\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Links:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nforageSF: \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/wild-kitchen/health-department-blues-2/\">Health Department Blues\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Citizen: \u003ca href=\"http://www.baycitizen.org/blogs/culturefeed/foragesf-founder-says-health-department/\">ForageSF Founder Accuses Health Department of Harassment\u003c/a> (UPDATED)\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Iso Rabins of forageSF is the mind behind an underground food market, wild foraging walks and scavenger hunts, plus several series of underground dinners. We dig into what's next on his plate: a cooperative Forage Kitchen.",
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"title": "Iso Rabins of forageSF plans his next “foodtrepreneur” venture: Forage Kitchen | KQED",
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"headline": "Iso Rabins of forageSF plans his next “foodtrepreneur” venture: Forage Kitchen",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/isointro560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/isointro560.jpg\" alt=\"Iso Rabins\" title=\"Iso Rabins\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40860\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/\">forageSF\u003c/a> founder Iso Rabins. All photos courtesy forageSF.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nBorn in Santa Cruz and raised on the East Coast, Iso Rabins always knew he wanted to return to California after college. What he didn’t know was that he’d be making a living out of what he found in the woods. Staying with his father in the woods east of Eureka, CA, Rabins learned to forage mushrooms and began to drive them down to San Francisco to sell at the back doors of restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Black trumpets, hedgehogs, chanterelles,” Rabins recalls. “\u003ca href=\"http://www.offalgood.com/\">Chris Cosentino\u003c/a> was one of the first guys to buy from me. He seemed pretty into it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/mushies5601.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/mushies5601.jpg\" alt=\"Foraged mushrooms\" title=\"Foraged mushrooms\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40864\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Foraged mushrooms ready for sale.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rabins, who would “cold call chefs and show up at the back door with a flat of mushrooms,” counted \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/intro.php\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzaiolooakland.com/\">Pizzaiolo\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://emmysspaghettishack.com/\">Emmy's Spaghetti Shack\u003c/a> among his regular clients. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But mushroom season is short in California, and Rabins had a knack for foraging.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I realized that for rest of the year, you can forage too!” he says. Wild greens, acorns, and seaweed made it onto his short list of items to gather in the woods. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I grew up in Vermont but I wasn't really a woods guy,” says Rabins. “It's cool when I go back now to visit my mom, I see so much more than I saw before. There are ramps everywhere!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Foraging gives you a real awareness of your surroundings. You notice things you'd never seen before.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Rabins started a “CSF” (Community Supported Forage) box program, similar to a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Community-supported_agricultur\">CSA\u003c/a> box you’d get from a farm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I wanted to sell at the farmer's markets but people get freaked out by wild mushrooms,” he said. So then, he started the \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/market/\">underground market\u003c/a>. The event, which ran for eighteen months, was a space for people who are making food at home to be able to sell it. Morphing from a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/29/underground-farmers-market/\">private house in the Mission\u003c/a>, to which 150 people showed up to a 2,500 person private club held at \u003ca href=\"http://publicsf.com/\">Public Works\u003c/a>, the underground market was eventually shut down by the Health Department. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/food-market560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/food-market560.jpg\" alt=\"Underground Market\" title=\"Underground Market\" width=\"560\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40867\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hungry patrons wait outside the Underground Market in 2010.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nThree years ago, Rabins started the \u003ca href=\"http://wildkitchen.wordpress.com/\">Wild Kitchen\u003c/a>, a series of wild foraged underground dinners. Each of the eight courses focuses on a couple of wild ingredients that Rabins collects; he cooks with co-chef Thomas Martinez, formerly of \u003ca href=\"http://www.missionbeachcafesf.com/\">Mission Beach Cafe\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartartine.com/\">Bar Tartine\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The focus for Rabins and the rest of the \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/\">forageSF\u003c/a> crew now, is shifting toward an “incubator kitchen,” a concept Rabins is developing based off of the model of \u003ca href=\"http://techshop.ws/\">Tech Shop\u003c/a>. For around $100 monthly, members can use industrial design equipment and receive help with their projects. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Commercial kitchens aren't welcoming to non-professionals,” Rabins explains. “We all have these little apartment kitchens, which are not cohesive to cooking large amounts of food.”\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/an-incubator-kitchen/fundraising-for-forage-kitchen/\">Forage Kitchen\u003c/a> is intended to be a “hub for food.” The shared-use commercial kitchen will have office space and offer consulting to people who are starting their own food businesses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When you're starting your own food business there is so much bureaucracy and red tape,” says Rabins. “There is so much hassle and you're generally trying to do it all on your own, so it's really disheartening.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forage Kitchen will be a space for people to work alongside each other. “People talk a lot about the food community in SF, but more realistically it's a lot of people doing the same stuff on their own in the same city,” Rabins says. A lot of small-business food entrepreneurs, Rabins says, know each other but don’t meet up. Being around others who “are going through the same stuff, and learning the same stuff” will be beneficial to both the small businesspeople and to the larger SF food community as a whole. Beyond Forage Kitchen being for small businesses, though, Rabins sees it as a welcoming space for individuals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though Forage Kitchen is still several months away from opening, Rabins is just starting to fundraise now. He hasn’t begun applying for any licenses yet but there is a space the foragers are eyeballing. “Think 10,000 square feet in SOMA, with space for a rooftop garden and a temperature-controlled room to hang meats and cure prosciutto,” Rabins says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/utopia560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/utopia560.jpg\" alt=\"utopia\" title=\"utopia\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40869\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Diners will eventually enjoy the fruits of local labor at the Forage Kitchen.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nAnother dream is to have a “home brew room,” where novice brewmeisters can produce beer, and a café in front that will sell the wares made on site. When will this utopian place open? “Hopefully within a year,” Rabins says. “It’s amazing how difficult the city makes these things,” he sighs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though getting an independent food business off the ground in San Francisco can be filled with trials and tribulations, Rabins has persevered. His methods of success?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I've always kept my business really light,” he explains. “If I was doing something, and it wasn't working, I could easily change course. I have tried to follow my interests the whole way.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I think the most important thing to be successful is to follow your own passion.”\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>For now, Rabins is getting the word out about the \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/an-incubator-kitchen/fundraising-for-forage-kitchen/\">Forage Kitchen\u003c/a> through forageSF events like Wild-boar scavenger hunts, “Gypsy Jazz pig roasts,” and Basque family-style feasts. Although this weekend’s Basque feasts are sold out there will be future fundraising events to get the Forage Kitchen project off the ground. To be among the first to know about upcoming events subscribe to the \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/\">forageSF email list\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Links:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nforageSF: \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/wild-kitchen/health-department-blues-2/\">Health Department Blues\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Citizen: \u003ca href=\"http://www.baycitizen.org/blogs/culturefeed/foragesf-founder-says-health-department/\">ForageSF Founder Accuses Health Department of Harassment\u003c/a> (UPDATED)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Chef Dominique Crenn Talks About Her Dialogue Dinners, Book Project and Guy Savoy ",
"title": "Chef Dominique Crenn Talks About Her Dialogue Dinners, Book Project and Guy Savoy ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Dominique-Crenn-final.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Dominique-Crenn-final.jpg\" alt=\"Dominique Crenn. Photo: Molly DeCoudreaux\" title=\"Dominique Crenn. Photo: Molly DeCoudreaux\" width=\"538\" height=\"359\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40665\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dominique Crenn. Photo: Molly DeCoudreaux\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Dominique Crenn is just back from a trip to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivore.fr/\">Omnivore Food Festival\u003c/a> in Paris, where she was one of the few Michelin-starred female chefs asked to participate. She is full of inspiration and ideas, and launching a \u003ca href=\"http://www.brownpapertickets.com/event/233508\">special dialogue dinner\u003c/a> for two nights this month at her \u003ca href=\"http://www.ateliercrenn.com/\">Atelier Crenn\u003c/a> restaurant on March 28 and March 29. This dialogue dinner series kicks-off with a two-night “conversation” between Chef Crenn and Miles Watson of \u003ca href=\"http://pure-berlin.com/miles.php\">Pure Berlin\u003c/a>. Crenn and Watson will take turns composing courses (five from each side) and will collaborate on the final eleventh course. Like Atelier Crenn’s “fiercely modern” French cookery, Pure Berlin is a restaurant and culinary design studio with firm German roots, but fresh gastronomic sensibilities. Tickets are $300, including coursed wine pairings (reduced price of $200 for non-drinking guests); no vegetarian option available.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://pure-berlin.com/miles.php\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/PURE-BERLIN-new400.jpg\" alt=\"pure Berlin image courtesy of Atelier Crenn\" title=\"pure Berlin image courtesy of Atelier Crenn\" width=\"400\" height=\"517\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40670\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pure Berlin image courtesy of Atelier Crenn\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crenn is a native of France and received Michelin stars at Luce in 2010 and 2011. Esquire awarded her Chef of the Year in 2008 and she won Iron Chef America in 2010. Before opening her own restaurant, Crenn worked at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lucewinerestaurant.com/\">Luce\u003c/a>, and in Jakarta and Los Angeles. She was a protégé of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeremiah_Tower\">Jeremiah Tower\u003c/a> at the vaunted Stars Restaurant in San Francisco early in her career. Crenn lives in the Duboce Park neighborhood and spoke with Bay Area Bites via phone. She was on her way to eat at \u003ca href=\"http://heirloom-sf.com/\">Heirloom Café\u003c/a> for the first time, after finding the wait line at \u003ca href=\"http://www.missionchinesefood.com/\">Mission Chinese Food\u003c/a> to be too long.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why do a dialogue dinner with another chef?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMany times with chefs, it can be all about the ego (laughs). I want to get away from there. I’m starting this dialogue because I want to collaborate with other chefs. I love what we’re doing as chefs, and go online to learn from my peers at \u003ca href=\"http://chefs-talk.com/\">Chef’s Talk\u003c/a>. With Miles, he’s trying to show people that there’s really something good about German food beyond heavy stuff, like sauerkraut and sausage. It’s his heritage, and he can use a modernist’s touch to the courses. I gave him the freedom to express himself and be what he is. There’s a story on the plate and the menu’s also going to be the story. I want it to be like this: “Tell me who you are, and where you’ve been.” We both cook with local produce but I’ll email him so that he knows what we have in season here. So far, we’ve been in touch via email and I first met him online at Chef’s Talk. I was supposed to meet him at the Omnivore Festival but it didn’t work out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m also talking to John Fraser of \u003ca href=\"http://dovetailnyc.com/\">Dovetail\u003c/a>, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.tipplingclub.com/\">Tippling Club\u003c/a>’s Ryan Clift and In De Wulf’s \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/Kobewulf\">Kobe Desramaults\u003c/a>. Right now, I am tentatively scheduled to do a dialogue dinner in June with Carlo Miriarchi of \u003ca href=\"http://www.robertaspizza.com/\">Roberta's Pizza\u003c/a> in New York.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What’s going on with your book?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI know \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anthony_Myint\">Anthony Myint\u003c/a> and he comes to the restaurant quite often. His wife \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAcS52QgIuQ\">Karen Leibowitz\u003c/a> and I are writing a book together. I’m excited. It’s going to be called Dialogue, and show the recipes and the people in my life. I’m here to celebrate the people in my life and the world that surrounds me and inspires me. The current idea is to go with a lot of pictures, writing, recipes, and drawings. It’ll be about a dialogue that is global and international.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I thought about the book a long time ago and was talking to my business partner about it before we opened Atelier Crenn. It’s important for me to be able to reach out to the culinary world, and not just San Francisco and New York. It’s important to understand what’s going on in the world and know that cooking has changed. What we put on the plate involves the produce, people, animals and soil around us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Foie-Gras-Log1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Foie-Gras-Log560.jpg\" alt=\"Foie Gras Log\" title=\"Foie Gras Log\" width=\"560\" height=\"374\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40679\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Foie gras “Log.” All Photos courtesy of Atelier Crenn\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003ctable>\n\u003ctr>\n\u003ctd>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Ocean-and-Land1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Ocean-and-Land1000-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Ocean and Land - Wagyu Beef and Smoked Sturgeon. Photo: Atelier Crenn\" title=\"Ocean and Land - Wagyu Beef and Smoked Sturgeon. Photo: Atelier Crenn\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-40663\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Dominique-Crenn-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Dominique-Crenn-1000-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Dominique Crenn prepares vegetables in the Atelier Crenn kitchen. Photo: Atelier Crenn\" title=\"Chef Dominique Crenn prepares vegetables in the Atelier Crenn kitchen. Photo: Atelier Crenn\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-40661\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Atelier-Crenn-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Atelier-Crenn-1000-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Dominique Crenn plating ingredients with tweezers. Photo: Atelier Crenn\" title=\"Chef Dominique Crenn plating ingredients with tweezers. Photo: Atelier Crenn\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-40660\">\u003c/a>\u003c/td>\n\u003c/tr>\n\u003c/table>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What was it like meeting your culinary hero, \u003ca href=\"http://www.guysavoy.com/en/\">Guy Savoy\u003c/a> ?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nA friend told him to come eat at Atelier Crenn his first time in San Francisco, and he did. I cooked for him and his girlfriend. He told me to come to his restaurant in Paris, I did and he cooked 14 courses. He treated me like I was a queen. It was so crazy. At this point I don’t care what critics say -- I cooked for Guy Savoy. I just want to cook for my customers and no one else. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your favorite food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com/\">Commonwealth\u003c/a>, where I sit at the bar and hang out. It’s just amazing. I love the flavors and really like the chef, Jason Fox.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My friend opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.sushirrito.com/\">Sushirrito\u003c/a>. There’s a special roll I order there. I don’t want to say it’s crack in my mouth because I’ve never had crack. But it’s pretty intense and just delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I went to \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>, I was blown away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.foreigncinema.com/\">Foreign Cinema\u003c/a> is another favorite. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love siphon-style coffee, from Japan. I like to do meetings and see friends at \u003ca href=\"http://fourbarrelcoffee.com/\">Four Barrel\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What do you do when you’re not working?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWe go to Marin a lot, because, my partner’s family is in Kentfield. They have a very beautiful house that’s almost French-style. There’s a wonderful hiking trail nearby. Near Mill Valley, there’s also a big great place to go foraging. We have three dogs that I take with me: Sophie the boxer, Frankie the crazy Chihuahua and Maximus, a lovely tiny dog. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This recipe, WALK IN THE FOREST is a menu staple at Atelier Crenn and changes seasonally. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/forest1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/forest560.jpg\" alt=\"Recipe: Walk in the Forest. Chef Dominique Crenn. Photo: Atelier Crenn\" title=\"Recipe: Walk in the Forest. Chef Dominique Crenn. Photo: Atelier Crenn\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40654\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chef Dominique Crenn's Recipe: Walk in the Forest. Photo: Atelier Crenn\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: WALK IN THE FOREST\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pine Meringue\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n200g sugar\u003cbr>\n50g water\u003cbr>\n125 g egg whites\u003cbr>\nPine extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pumpernickel Soil\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n5 pieces pumpernickel bread\u003cbr>\n1 g salt\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hazelnut Praline\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n200 g blanched filberts\u003cbr>\n300 g blended oil\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Sorrel Oil\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 bu sorrel\u003cbr>\n150 g blended oil\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Foraged Mushrooms\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nclean wild mushrooms\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mushroom Paper\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n100 g mushroom puree\u003cbr>\n50 g isomalt\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\nIn a pot combine sugar and water until it reaches 121 degrees Celsius. At the same time in a KitchenAid mixer whip egg whites until medium peak. Combine syrup with the egg whites slowly, then mix at full speed until a stiff peak is formed. While mixer is going add in 7-10 drops of pine extract for flavor.\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\nToast pumpernickel until completely dried out. In a Robot Coupe, grind bread and salt to make a soil.\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\nBlanch hazelnuts in oil for about 15 minutes. Spin entire contents of the pot in a Vitamix until very smooth, season with salt. Should be the consistency of a very loose peanut butter.\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\nIn a Vitamix combine sorrel and oil, then strain through a coffee filter and fine sieve for 24 hours.\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\nSave the bits and pieces from cleaning and trimming your wild mushrooms. Put them in a pot with a little olive oil, thyme, garlic, and shallot. Deglaze with sherry vinegar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once mushrooms are cooked, puree in a Vitamix and and season with salt. Use this for garnish on the plate and mushroom paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine isomalt and puree and bring to a boil. Spread thinly on a sheet of acetate and dehydrate for 8 hours.\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Chickpea Paper\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n100 g chickpea puree\u003cbr>\n50 g isomalt\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dehydrated Mushrooms\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n50 g isomalt\u003cbr>\n100 g water\u003cbr>\n24 ea thinly sliced wild mushrooms\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\nBoil dried chickpeas until soft, then puree and season with salt. Combine with isomalt and bring to a boil. Spread a thin layer on acetate and dehydrate for 8 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring isomalt and water to a boil. Dip mushrooms in solution and set on acetate. Dehydrate for 3 hours until crispy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/forest2-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/forest2-5602.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Dominique Crenn's Recipe: Walk in the Forest. Photo: Atelier Crenn\" title=\"Chef Dominique Crenn's Recipe: Walk in the Forest. Photo: Atelier Crenn\" width=\"560\" height=\"335\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40676\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chef Dominique Crenn's Recipe: Walk in the Forest. Photo: Atelier Crenn\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "San Francisco Chef Dominique Crenn describes why she is doing dialogue dinners with other international chefs. She also shares info on her book project, travel and food favorites.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Dominique-Crenn-final.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Dominique-Crenn-final.jpg\" alt=\"Dominique Crenn. Photo: Molly DeCoudreaux\" title=\"Dominique Crenn. Photo: Molly DeCoudreaux\" width=\"538\" height=\"359\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40665\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dominique Crenn. Photo: Molly DeCoudreaux\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Dominique Crenn is just back from a trip to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivore.fr/\">Omnivore Food Festival\u003c/a> in Paris, where she was one of the few Michelin-starred female chefs asked to participate. She is full of inspiration and ideas, and launching a \u003ca href=\"http://www.brownpapertickets.com/event/233508\">special dialogue dinner\u003c/a> for two nights this month at her \u003ca href=\"http://www.ateliercrenn.com/\">Atelier Crenn\u003c/a> restaurant on March 28 and March 29. This dialogue dinner series kicks-off with a two-night “conversation” between Chef Crenn and Miles Watson of \u003ca href=\"http://pure-berlin.com/miles.php\">Pure Berlin\u003c/a>. Crenn and Watson will take turns composing courses (five from each side) and will collaborate on the final eleventh course. Like Atelier Crenn’s “fiercely modern” French cookery, Pure Berlin is a restaurant and culinary design studio with firm German roots, but fresh gastronomic sensibilities. Tickets are $300, including coursed wine pairings (reduced price of $200 for non-drinking guests); no vegetarian option available.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://pure-berlin.com/miles.php\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/PURE-BERLIN-new400.jpg\" alt=\"pure Berlin image courtesy of Atelier Crenn\" title=\"pure Berlin image courtesy of Atelier Crenn\" width=\"400\" height=\"517\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40670\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pure Berlin image courtesy of Atelier Crenn\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crenn is a native of France and received Michelin stars at Luce in 2010 and 2011. Esquire awarded her Chef of the Year in 2008 and she won Iron Chef America in 2010. Before opening her own restaurant, Crenn worked at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lucewinerestaurant.com/\">Luce\u003c/a>, and in Jakarta and Los Angeles. She was a protégé of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeremiah_Tower\">Jeremiah Tower\u003c/a> at the vaunted Stars Restaurant in San Francisco early in her career. Crenn lives in the Duboce Park neighborhood and spoke with Bay Area Bites via phone. She was on her way to eat at \u003ca href=\"http://heirloom-sf.com/\">Heirloom Café\u003c/a> for the first time, after finding the wait line at \u003ca href=\"http://www.missionchinesefood.com/\">Mission Chinese Food\u003c/a> to be too long.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why do a dialogue dinner with another chef?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMany times with chefs, it can be all about the ego (laughs). I want to get away from there. I’m starting this dialogue because I want to collaborate with other chefs. I love what we’re doing as chefs, and go online to learn from my peers at \u003ca href=\"http://chefs-talk.com/\">Chef’s Talk\u003c/a>. With Miles, he’s trying to show people that there’s really something good about German food beyond heavy stuff, like sauerkraut and sausage. It’s his heritage, and he can use a modernist’s touch to the courses. I gave him the freedom to express himself and be what he is. There’s a story on the plate and the menu’s also going to be the story. I want it to be like this: “Tell me who you are, and where you’ve been.” We both cook with local produce but I’ll email him so that he knows what we have in season here. So far, we’ve been in touch via email and I first met him online at Chef’s Talk. I was supposed to meet him at the Omnivore Festival but it didn’t work out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m also talking to John Fraser of \u003ca href=\"http://dovetailnyc.com/\">Dovetail\u003c/a>, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.tipplingclub.com/\">Tippling Club\u003c/a>’s Ryan Clift and In De Wulf’s \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/Kobewulf\">Kobe Desramaults\u003c/a>. Right now, I am tentatively scheduled to do a dialogue dinner in June with Carlo Miriarchi of \u003ca href=\"http://www.robertaspizza.com/\">Roberta's Pizza\u003c/a> in New York.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What’s going on with your book?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI know \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anthony_Myint\">Anthony Myint\u003c/a> and he comes to the restaurant quite often. His wife \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAcS52QgIuQ\">Karen Leibowitz\u003c/a> and I are writing a book together. I’m excited. It’s going to be called Dialogue, and show the recipes and the people in my life. I’m here to celebrate the people in my life and the world that surrounds me and inspires me. The current idea is to go with a lot of pictures, writing, recipes, and drawings. It’ll be about a dialogue that is global and international.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I thought about the book a long time ago and was talking to my business partner about it before we opened Atelier Crenn. It’s important for me to be able to reach out to the culinary world, and not just San Francisco and New York. It’s important to understand what’s going on in the world and know that cooking has changed. What we put on the plate involves the produce, people, animals and soil around us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Foie-Gras-Log1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Foie-Gras-Log560.jpg\" alt=\"Foie Gras Log\" title=\"Foie Gras Log\" width=\"560\" height=\"374\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40679\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Foie gras “Log.” All Photos courtesy of Atelier Crenn\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003ctable>\n\u003ctr>\n\u003ctd>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Ocean-and-Land1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Ocean-and-Land1000-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Ocean and Land - Wagyu Beef and Smoked Sturgeon. Photo: Atelier Crenn\" title=\"Ocean and Land - Wagyu Beef and Smoked Sturgeon. Photo: Atelier Crenn\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-40663\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Dominique-Crenn-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Dominique-Crenn-1000-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Dominique Crenn prepares vegetables in the Atelier Crenn kitchen. Photo: Atelier Crenn\" title=\"Chef Dominique Crenn prepares vegetables in the Atelier Crenn kitchen. Photo: Atelier Crenn\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-40661\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Atelier-Crenn-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Atelier-Crenn-1000-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Dominique Crenn plating ingredients with tweezers. Photo: Atelier Crenn\" title=\"Chef Dominique Crenn plating ingredients with tweezers. Photo: Atelier Crenn\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-40660\">\u003c/a>\u003c/td>\n\u003c/tr>\n\u003c/table>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What was it like meeting your culinary hero, \u003ca href=\"http://www.guysavoy.com/en/\">Guy Savoy\u003c/a> ?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nA friend told him to come eat at Atelier Crenn his first time in San Francisco, and he did. I cooked for him and his girlfriend. He told me to come to his restaurant in Paris, I did and he cooked 14 courses. He treated me like I was a queen. It was so crazy. At this point I don’t care what critics say -- I cooked for Guy Savoy. I just want to cook for my customers and no one else. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your favorite food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com/\">Commonwealth\u003c/a>, where I sit at the bar and hang out. It’s just amazing. I love the flavors and really like the chef, Jason Fox.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My friend opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.sushirrito.com/\">Sushirrito\u003c/a>. There’s a special roll I order there. I don’t want to say it’s crack in my mouth because I’ve never had crack. But it’s pretty intense and just delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I went to \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>, I was blown away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.foreigncinema.com/\">Foreign Cinema\u003c/a> is another favorite. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love siphon-style coffee, from Japan. I like to do meetings and see friends at \u003ca href=\"http://fourbarrelcoffee.com/\">Four Barrel\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What do you do when you’re not working?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWe go to Marin a lot, because, my partner’s family is in Kentfield. They have a very beautiful house that’s almost French-style. There’s a wonderful hiking trail nearby. Near Mill Valley, there’s also a big great place to go foraging. We have three dogs that I take with me: Sophie the boxer, Frankie the crazy Chihuahua and Maximus, a lovely tiny dog. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This recipe, WALK IN THE FOREST is a menu staple at Atelier Crenn and changes seasonally. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/forest1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/forest560.jpg\" alt=\"Recipe: Walk in the Forest. Chef Dominique Crenn. Photo: Atelier Crenn\" title=\"Recipe: Walk in the Forest. Chef Dominique Crenn. Photo: Atelier Crenn\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40654\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chef Dominique Crenn's Recipe: Walk in the Forest. Photo: Atelier Crenn\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: WALK IN THE FOREST\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pine Meringue\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n200g sugar\u003cbr>\n50g water\u003cbr>\n125 g egg whites\u003cbr>\nPine extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pumpernickel Soil\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n5 pieces pumpernickel bread\u003cbr>\n1 g salt\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hazelnut Praline\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n200 g blanched filberts\u003cbr>\n300 g blended oil\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Sorrel Oil\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 bu sorrel\u003cbr>\n150 g blended oil\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Foraged Mushrooms\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nclean wild mushrooms\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mushroom Paper\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n100 g mushroom puree\u003cbr>\n50 g isomalt\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\nIn a pot combine sugar and water until it reaches 121 degrees Celsius. At the same time in a KitchenAid mixer whip egg whites until medium peak. Combine syrup with the egg whites slowly, then mix at full speed until a stiff peak is formed. While mixer is going add in 7-10 drops of pine extract for flavor.\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\nToast pumpernickel until completely dried out. In a Robot Coupe, grind bread and salt to make a soil.\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\nBlanch hazelnuts in oil for about 15 minutes. Spin entire contents of the pot in a Vitamix until very smooth, season with salt. Should be the consistency of a very loose peanut butter.\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\nIn a Vitamix combine sorrel and oil, then strain through a coffee filter and fine sieve for 24 hours.\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\nSave the bits and pieces from cleaning and trimming your wild mushrooms. Put them in a pot with a little olive oil, thyme, garlic, and shallot. Deglaze with sherry vinegar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once mushrooms are cooked, puree in a Vitamix and and season with salt. Use this for garnish on the plate and mushroom paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine isomalt and puree and bring to a boil. Spread thinly on a sheet of acetate and dehydrate for 8 hours.\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Chickpea Paper\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n100 g chickpea puree\u003cbr>\n50 g isomalt\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dehydrated Mushrooms\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n50 g isomalt\u003cbr>\n100 g water\u003cbr>\n24 ea thinly sliced wild mushrooms\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\nBoil dried chickpeas until soft, then puree and season with salt. Combine with isomalt and bring to a boil. Spread a thin layer on acetate and dehydrate for 8 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring isomalt and water to a boil. Dip mushrooms in solution and set on acetate. Dehydrate for 3 hours until crispy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Persian New Year Welcomes Spring with Symbolic Traditions and Treats",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Monier-Attar.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40120\" title=\"Monier Attar\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Monier-Attar.jpg\" alt=\"Monier Attar\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This post was updated March 18, 2018.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why do customers travel from as far away as Sacramento and Eureka to a little shop on Albany’s Solano Avenue every March and leave with bags full of crushed sumac, sprouted wheat, and flower-shaped chickpea cookies? To celebrate \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nowruz\">Norooz\u003c/a>\u003c/em> (also spelled Nowruz) or Persian New Year, a secular holiday, observed in thousands of homes around the world on the first day of Spring.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID=\"bayareabites_94115\" label=\"The Seven Edible ‘S’ Foods of the Persian New Year\"]\u003cbr>\nOn a recent foray to \u003ca href=\"http://www.zandpastry.com/\">Zands\u003c/a>, my neighborhood Middle Eastern store, I spotted an intriguing assortment of items artfully arranged on a table. I asked the owner, Monier Attar, about the meaning of the arrangement and she graciously described the symbols and traditions associated with this ancient holiday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://cmes.hmdc.harvard.edu/files/NowruzCurriculumText.pdf\">Norooz, a pre-Islamic festival\u003c/a> dating back at least 3000 years, is rooted in rituals from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.religionfacts.com/zoroastrianism/index.htm\">Zoroastrian religion\u003c/a>. This celebration of the first day of Spring originated in the geographical area then called Persia, but is now observed in many lands, including Iran, India, Iraq, Afghanistan, Central Asia, Canada and the U.S. It crosses religious and national boundaries and is celebrated by Persian Jews, Christians, Baha’is and Muslims.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/haft-sin.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40119\" title=\"haft-sin\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/haft-sin.jpg\" alt=\"haft-sin\" width=\"400\" height=\"536\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo courtesy Monier Attar\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am no stranger to symbolic foods (the Jewish \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passover_Seder_Plate\">Passover Seder plate\u003c/a> includes horseradish for the bitterness of slavery and a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charoset\">fruit and nut mixture\u003c/a> representing the mortar used by slaves for building structures in Egypt). But next to the food, I noticed several other items on the table-- goldfish in a bowl, a mirror, a dish full of what looks like grass, coins in a cup of reddish spice-- that pique my interest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Attar explained that the most essential tradition of Norooz is for every family to prepare the \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haft-Sin\">Haft Sin\u003c/a>\u003c/em> or 7 symbolic items that start with the letter S (in Farsi):\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Sabzeh\u003c/em>, sprouted wheat or other grain growing in a dish, to symbolize rebirth.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Samanu\u003c/em>, a sweet pudding made from sprouted wheat that represents fertility and the sweetness of life.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Seeb\u003c/em>, apples, for health and beauty.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Senjed\u003c/em>, the sweet, dried fruit of the Lotus tree, for love.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sir\u003c/em>, garlic, for medicine and good health.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Somaq\u003c/em>, crushed sumac berries, to reflect the color of the sunrise.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Serkeh\u003c/em>, vinegar, to symbolize patience and age.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/senjed.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40126\" title=\"senjed\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/senjed.jpg\" alt=\"senjed\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Senjed, one of the 7 foods that begin with S\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparations must commence days before the actual day of the vernal equinox and include a thorough housecleaning, sprouting the grain and buying new clothes for everyone in the family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The equinox is calculated to occur the moment that the Sun crosses the celestial equator and equalizes night and day, which happens at different times across the globe (\u003ca href=\"http://www.farsinet.com/noruz/sal_tahvils.html\">see chart\u003c/a>). This year, the West Coast will celebrate it Thursday, March 21st.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“It’s important that at the exact moment of the equinox, the family is sitting around the table, because you want the family to be together for the rest of the year,” says Attar. “We pray and hold hands and then the countdown on radio or TV announces the exact moment and we all kiss and hug. I’m getting goose bumps just talking about it,” says Attar, tearing up, “It’s emotional for me because I think of my parents.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Attar grew up in Iran, but left in 1984, at age 35 with her 2 young children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“I sacrificed my parents to make a new life for my children. My mom is still in Iran. When I was a child, New Years was the most exciting time. Every year it comes at a different hour. When it was at 4am, my mother woke us up an hour before to take a shower and put on new clothes. But the best part is that for the next 13 days the young people in the family go visit the older people who give them money, crisp new bills.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>This tradition is similar to the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_envelope\">Chinese New Year tradition\u003c/a>, where New Year’s bills are placed in red envelopes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/norooz-samanu.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40111\" title=\"norooz samanu\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/norooz-samanu.jpg\" alt=\"norooz samanu\" width=\"560\" height=\"283\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of all the dishes on the Haft Sin, the hardest one to procure is the \u003cem>Samanu\u003c/em>. It takes days to prepare a sweet creamy pudding made from sprouted wheat that is cooked for many hours. The wheat must be sprouted for 5 days until white roots and sprouts appear, then it is crushed and the mash repeatedly “milked” and cooked on the stove for at least 5 hours. It is finally finished overnight in a low oven to give it that burnished brown hue.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID=\"food_1332170\" label=\"Taste This: Kuku, The Persian Frittata\"]\u003cbr>\nAttar offered me a taste. It was so sweet and nutty, it’s hard to believe it’s only made from sprouted wheat and flour. Many Persian families put a tiny symbolic dish of the stuff on their table but Attar cooks pots of it for her customers and says, “Once people taste how delicious it is, they actually want enough for their guests to eat.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/norooz-wheat1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40122\" title=\"norooz wheat\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/norooz-wheat1.jpg\" alt=\"norooz wheat\" width=\"560\" height=\"283\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Whole wheat and its early sprouts\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another tradition is on the 13th day of the New Year, the family takes the Sabzeh (the sprouts growing in a dish) from their place on the table and after a picnic in the park, throws them into running water, to rid the house of sickness and sadness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/eggs1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40116\" title=\"eggs\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/eggs1.jpg\" alt=\"eggs\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Additional items on the table may include: golden coins representing prosperity and wealth, a basket of painted eggs for fertility, live goldfish in a bowl of water for life, a flowering hyacinth for its lovely smell, lit candles for enlightenment and happiness, a mirror to represent truth or reflection and a platter of special pastries. Every year, Attar makes thousands of cookies from chickpea flour or rice flour with nuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/norooz-cookies-2nd.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40134\" title=\"norooz cookies\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/norooz-cookies-2nd.jpg\" alt=\"norooz cookies\" width=\"560\" height=\"240\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cookie platter. Photo courtesy Monier Attar\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The customary meal for New Year's Day is \u003cem>Sabzi Polo Mahi\u003c/em>, rice with green herbs served with fish. Attar says this is the Persian equivalent of having turkey for Thanksgiving. She carries fresh whitefish and the traditional herbs for the rice: parsley, coriander, chives, dill and fenugreek.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Norooz also has special meaning to Zohal Nassrollahi, Berkeley City College student and first generation American. “When I was a child, the event seemed very magical. I’ve always loved certain things on the Haft Sin table: the glowing gold coins, the maroon colored sumac,” says Nassrollahi, who studies art and design.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/sumac.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40125\" title=\"sumac\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/sumac.jpg\" alt=\"sumac\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“I plan to keep celebrating Norooz, even when I have children. It’s a way to stay connected to my culture, even though I have never been to Iran. But it’s kind of bittersweet, because the holiday is a lot about spending time with the family and we have such a small one, just my parents and me. I also love the tradition of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaharshanbe_Suri\">Chahar Shanbeh Suri \u003c/a>(or fire-jumping).”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>This ritual traces back to Zoroastrianism, as a rite of purification. Bonfires are lit in the streets on the last Tuesday evening of the year and people leap over them while chanting. The translation, “Give me your beautiful red color, and take back my sickly pallor,” demonstrates the fire’s ability to cleanse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Fire is a powerful symbol,” says Nassrollahi, “When you hop over the fires, it takes away the negativities from the past year and helps you focus on the future.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.persiancenter.org/\">Persian Center\u003c/a> holds its annual \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/events/2169816293080399/\">bonfire-jumping event\u003c/a> Tuesday evening March 19 on the 2000 block of Durant -- and invites both adults and children, Persians and non-Persians to join in the fire-jumping festivities with music and food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Ajile.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40109\" title=\"Ajile\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Ajile.jpg\" alt=\"Ajile\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Attar carries the traditional snack of dried fruit and nuts to eat on Chahar Shanbeh Suri plus everything else one would need to fully celebrate the holiday. As she served me a cup of tea and some of her cookies, she told me Norooz (whose literal meaning is “new day”), is the perfect time to let go of grudges, apologize, hug and make-up and start over again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/happy-norooz.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40110\" title=\"happy norooz\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/happy-norooz.jpg\" alt=\"happy norooz\" width=\"560\" height=\"305\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Norooz is included on UNESCO’s \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UNESCO_Intangible_Cultural_Heritage_Lists#Proclaimed_masterpieces\">List of Intangible Cultural Heritage\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Persian New Year (Norooz or Nowruz) is a 3000 year old celebration, observed around the world on the first day of Spring. Its many traditions include a table of 7 foods that start with \"S\" in Farsi, and jumping over bonfires. Monier Attar of Zands Market is busily preparing everything her Persian patrons will need for the holiday, from a creamy pudding of sprouted wheat to flower-shaped chickpea flour cookies.",
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"description": "Persian New Year (Norooz or Nowruz) is a 3000 year old celebration, observed around the world on the first day of Spring. Its many traditions include a table of 7 foods that start with "S" in Farsi, and jumping over bonfires. Monier Attar of Zands Market is busily preparing everything her Persian patrons will need for the holiday, from a creamy pudding of sprouted wheat to flower-shaped chickpea flour cookies.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Monier-Attar.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40120\" title=\"Monier Attar\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Monier-Attar.jpg\" alt=\"Monier Attar\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This post was updated March 18, 2018.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why do customers travel from as far away as Sacramento and Eureka to a little shop on Albany’s Solano Avenue every March and leave with bags full of crushed sumac, sprouted wheat, and flower-shaped chickpea cookies? To celebrate \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nowruz\">Norooz\u003c/a>\u003c/em> (also spelled Nowruz) or Persian New Year, a secular holiday, observed in thousands of homes around the world on the first day of Spring.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nOn a recent foray to \u003ca href=\"http://www.zandpastry.com/\">Zands\u003c/a>, my neighborhood Middle Eastern store, I spotted an intriguing assortment of items artfully arranged on a table. I asked the owner, Monier Attar, about the meaning of the arrangement and she graciously described the symbols and traditions associated with this ancient holiday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://cmes.hmdc.harvard.edu/files/NowruzCurriculumText.pdf\">Norooz, a pre-Islamic festival\u003c/a> dating back at least 3000 years, is rooted in rituals from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.religionfacts.com/zoroastrianism/index.htm\">Zoroastrian religion\u003c/a>. This celebration of the first day of Spring originated in the geographical area then called Persia, but is now observed in many lands, including Iran, India, Iraq, Afghanistan, Central Asia, Canada and the U.S. It crosses religious and national boundaries and is celebrated by Persian Jews, Christians, Baha’is and Muslims.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/haft-sin.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40119\" title=\"haft-sin\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/haft-sin.jpg\" alt=\"haft-sin\" width=\"400\" height=\"536\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo courtesy Monier Attar\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am no stranger to symbolic foods (the Jewish \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passover_Seder_Plate\">Passover Seder plate\u003c/a> includes horseradish for the bitterness of slavery and a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charoset\">fruit and nut mixture\u003c/a> representing the mortar used by slaves for building structures in Egypt). But next to the food, I noticed several other items on the table-- goldfish in a bowl, a mirror, a dish full of what looks like grass, coins in a cup of reddish spice-- that pique my interest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Attar explained that the most essential tradition of Norooz is for every family to prepare the \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haft-Sin\">Haft Sin\u003c/a>\u003c/em> or 7 symbolic items that start with the letter S (in Farsi):\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Sabzeh\u003c/em>, sprouted wheat or other grain growing in a dish, to symbolize rebirth.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Samanu\u003c/em>, a sweet pudding made from sprouted wheat that represents fertility and the sweetness of life.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Seeb\u003c/em>, apples, for health and beauty.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Senjed\u003c/em>, the sweet, dried fruit of the Lotus tree, for love.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sir\u003c/em>, garlic, for medicine and good health.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Somaq\u003c/em>, crushed sumac berries, to reflect the color of the sunrise.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Serkeh\u003c/em>, vinegar, to symbolize patience and age.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/senjed.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40126\" title=\"senjed\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/senjed.jpg\" alt=\"senjed\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Senjed, one of the 7 foods that begin with S\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparations must commence days before the actual day of the vernal equinox and include a thorough housecleaning, sprouting the grain and buying new clothes for everyone in the family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The equinox is calculated to occur the moment that the Sun crosses the celestial equator and equalizes night and day, which happens at different times across the globe (\u003ca href=\"http://www.farsinet.com/noruz/sal_tahvils.html\">see chart\u003c/a>). This year, the West Coast will celebrate it Thursday, March 21st.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“It’s important that at the exact moment of the equinox, the family is sitting around the table, because you want the family to be together for the rest of the year,” says Attar. “We pray and hold hands and then the countdown on radio or TV announces the exact moment and we all kiss and hug. I’m getting goose bumps just talking about it,” says Attar, tearing up, “It’s emotional for me because I think of my parents.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Attar grew up in Iran, but left in 1984, at age 35 with her 2 young children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“I sacrificed my parents to make a new life for my children. My mom is still in Iran. When I was a child, New Years was the most exciting time. Every year it comes at a different hour. When it was at 4am, my mother woke us up an hour before to take a shower and put on new clothes. But the best part is that for the next 13 days the young people in the family go visit the older people who give them money, crisp new bills.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>This tradition is similar to the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_envelope\">Chinese New Year tradition\u003c/a>, where New Year’s bills are placed in red envelopes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/norooz-samanu.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40111\" title=\"norooz samanu\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/norooz-samanu.jpg\" alt=\"norooz samanu\" width=\"560\" height=\"283\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of all the dishes on the Haft Sin, the hardest one to procure is the \u003cem>Samanu\u003c/em>. It takes days to prepare a sweet creamy pudding made from sprouted wheat that is cooked for many hours. The wheat must be sprouted for 5 days until white roots and sprouts appear, then it is crushed and the mash repeatedly “milked” and cooked on the stove for at least 5 hours. It is finally finished overnight in a low oven to give it that burnished brown hue.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nAttar offered me a taste. It was so sweet and nutty, it’s hard to believe it’s only made from sprouted wheat and flour. Many Persian families put a tiny symbolic dish of the stuff on their table but Attar cooks pots of it for her customers and says, “Once people taste how delicious it is, they actually want enough for their guests to eat.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/norooz-wheat1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40122\" title=\"norooz wheat\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/norooz-wheat1.jpg\" alt=\"norooz wheat\" width=\"560\" height=\"283\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Whole wheat and its early sprouts\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another tradition is on the 13th day of the New Year, the family takes the Sabzeh (the sprouts growing in a dish) from their place on the table and after a picnic in the park, throws them into running water, to rid the house of sickness and sadness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/eggs1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40116\" title=\"eggs\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/eggs1.jpg\" alt=\"eggs\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Additional items on the table may include: golden coins representing prosperity and wealth, a basket of painted eggs for fertility, live goldfish in a bowl of water for life, a flowering hyacinth for its lovely smell, lit candles for enlightenment and happiness, a mirror to represent truth or reflection and a platter of special pastries. Every year, Attar makes thousands of cookies from chickpea flour or rice flour with nuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/norooz-cookies-2nd.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40134\" title=\"norooz cookies\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/norooz-cookies-2nd.jpg\" alt=\"norooz cookies\" width=\"560\" height=\"240\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cookie platter. Photo courtesy Monier Attar\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The customary meal for New Year's Day is \u003cem>Sabzi Polo Mahi\u003c/em>, rice with green herbs served with fish. Attar says this is the Persian equivalent of having turkey for Thanksgiving. She carries fresh whitefish and the traditional herbs for the rice: parsley, coriander, chives, dill and fenugreek.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Norooz also has special meaning to Zohal Nassrollahi, Berkeley City College student and first generation American. “When I was a child, the event seemed very magical. I’ve always loved certain things on the Haft Sin table: the glowing gold coins, the maroon colored sumac,” says Nassrollahi, who studies art and design.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/sumac.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40125\" title=\"sumac\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/sumac.jpg\" alt=\"sumac\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“I plan to keep celebrating Norooz, even when I have children. It’s a way to stay connected to my culture, even though I have never been to Iran. But it’s kind of bittersweet, because the holiday is a lot about spending time with the family and we have such a small one, just my parents and me. I also love the tradition of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaharshanbe_Suri\">Chahar Shanbeh Suri \u003c/a>(or fire-jumping).”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>This ritual traces back to Zoroastrianism, as a rite of purification. Bonfires are lit in the streets on the last Tuesday evening of the year and people leap over them while chanting. The translation, “Give me your beautiful red color, and take back my sickly pallor,” demonstrates the fire’s ability to cleanse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Fire is a powerful symbol,” says Nassrollahi, “When you hop over the fires, it takes away the negativities from the past year and helps you focus on the future.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.persiancenter.org/\">Persian Center\u003c/a> holds its annual \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/events/2169816293080399/\">bonfire-jumping event\u003c/a> Tuesday evening March 19 on the 2000 block of Durant -- and invites both adults and children, Persians and non-Persians to join in the fire-jumping festivities with music and food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Ajile.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40109\" title=\"Ajile\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/Ajile.jpg\" alt=\"Ajile\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Attar carries the traditional snack of dried fruit and nuts to eat on Chahar Shanbeh Suri plus everything else one would need to fully celebrate the holiday. As she served me a cup of tea and some of her cookies, she told me Norooz (whose literal meaning is “new day”), is the perfect time to let go of grudges, apologize, hug and make-up and start over again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/happy-norooz.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40110\" title=\"happy norooz\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/happy-norooz.jpg\" alt=\"happy norooz\" width=\"560\" height=\"305\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Norooz is included on UNESCO’s \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UNESCO_Intangible_Cultural_Heritage_Lists#Proclaimed_masterpieces\">List of Intangible Cultural Heritage\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Kitchen on Fire Cooking School: Take Two",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/chefs-kof-560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/chefs-kof-560.jpg\" alt=\"Chefs MikeC and Olivier Said clowning around in the kitchen.\" title=\"Chefs MikeC and Olivier Said clowning around in the kitchen.\" width=\"560\" height=\"480\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-38056\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Chefs MikeC and Olivier Said strike a pose in the kitchen.\u003c/strong> Images courtesy of KoF\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turns out that a financial meltdown can be a good thing for a cooking school -- even one that charges $70 a class and $799 for a 12-week series of instruction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Classes at the Gourmet Ghetto-based \u003ca href=\"http://kitchenonfire.com/\">Kitchen on Fire\u003c/a> in the Epicurious Garden are in such demand that the business now boasts a second, larger facility -- at 2,500 square foot twice the size of the original location -- in West Berkeley. The public can check out the new culinary classroom at its grand opening on Saturday night. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in 2005, chefs Olivier Said and MikeC teamed up to offer cooking classes both practical and playful. Their mission: To take the mystery out of kitchen techniques and culinary language, make cooking accessible to anyone who wanted to learn how to use a knife, and have fun putting food on a plate. (\u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2010/01/29/scouting-berkeley-kitchen-on-fire/\">Read a recent review of one class\u003c/a> and what a hundred or so \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/kitchen-on-fire-berkeley\">Yelpers have to say\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the original location, KoF2 offers a range of classes, including knife-skills, regional and ethnic cuisine, couples cookery, seasonal and farmers' market fare, and specialty food preparation (everything from cocktail party soirees to one-pot family meals for weeknights). All that, plus their signature 12-week basic cooking series taught in a space decked out with state-of-the-art equipment. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(Word to the recession weary: The kitchen is currently not accepting any new culinary assistants, which has proven a popular way for cash-strapped wannabe cooks to hone their skills. In exchange for helping prep before classes and clean up after, culinary assistants attend for free.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to showing off their new digs, serving food, and talking up the school's calendar of classes, MikeC and Said will sign copies of their recent book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Kitchen-Fire-Mastering-Cooking-Weeks/dp/0738214531\">\u003cem>Kitchen on Fire: Mastering the Art of Cooking in 12 Weeks (or Less)\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, a step-by-step, technique-driven tome designed to offer new skills for the complete novice to the accomplished home cook. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/class-500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/class-500.jpg\" alt=\"Kitchen on Fire plans to offer longer classes at their new satellite site.\" title=\"Kitchen on Fire plans to offer longer classes at their new satellite site.\" width=\"500\" height=\"335\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-38055\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Kitchen on Fire plans to offer longer classes at their new satellite site.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BAB checked in with Chef MikeC to find out what's cooking at the new Kitchen on Fire location.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why did you decide to open a second Kitchen on Fire site and what drew you to this location?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our classes were filling up so quickly (and many had large wait lists) so we needed more space to handle the demand. Our new location offers close access to the freeway, \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleybowl.com/\">Berkeley Bowl West\u003c/a> is in walking distance, and it's attached to a restaurant and home chef retail store, \u003ca href=\"http://www.rocketrest.com/\">Rocket Restaurant Resource\u003c/a>. Those three things made it a perfect match for us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How has the continuing economic downturn and renewed interest in the D.I.Y. Domestic Arts impacted your business?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oddly enough we have thrived through the recession. More people seem to think learning to cook is a great idea right now, whether to save money, eat healthier, change career, or just for the love of food. People want to come into the kitchen and create enticing, delicious, nourishing experiences at home for family and friends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How is the new location different from the Gourmet Ghetto site?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is a larger facility with two kitchens. It is also a blend of home chef and restaurant cooking equipment, so we can offer classes for both the home and professional chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What can folks look forward to at the new school in terms of classes, instructors, and events?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We will offer longer (four or more hours compared to our typical three-hour) classes, as well as more series-style classes on both cooking techniques and ethnic cuisines, including Thai, Indian, and French. We're also working with an ever-growing roster of guest chef instructors that are experts in their cuisines. On the event side, we can now hold larger private and corporate parties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's unique about your cooking school?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are one of only a few independent (not part of a retail, grocery, cooking appliance) cooking schools in the country that has a focus on teaching home chefs. We have a vibrant atmosphere, with expert instructors who engaging. We explain the inner workings of food and its cookery to help students become confident cooks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're also involved in community outreach programs with non-profit partners such as \u003ca href=\"http://threesquaremeals.org/\">Three Squares\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.svdp-alameda.org/how-we-help/job-training/kitchen-of-champions.html\">St. Vincent de Paul's Kitchen of Champions\u003c/a>. We help teach people living on welfare how to feed their families healthy meals on limited budgets or learn cooking skills they can use to find work in the food service industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are the fundamental cooking techniques a novice should learn first? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Knife skills: If the food isn’t cut to the proper (and uniform) shape and size, it won’t cook evenly. Sautéing and stir frying would be next. Both are quick and easy techniques to make a meal and also the first step for many other techniques, such as making a soup or stew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>If you had to name three dishes that every home chef should know how to prepare, what would they be?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A roasted chicken and vegetables, veggie stir fry, and frittata. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/new-space500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/new-space500.jpg\" alt=\"A sneak peek inside the new Kitchen on Fire culinary classroom.\" title=\"A sneak peek inside the new Kitchen on Fire culinary classroom.\" width=\"500\" height=\"299\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-38057\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A sneak peek inside the new Kitchen on Fire culinary classroom.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Details:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kitchen on Fire West Grand Opening\u003cbr>\nSaturday, January 28, 7 p.m.-9 p.m.\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://g.co/maps/cvapa\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n(Inside Rocket Restaurant Resource)\u003cbr>\n2940 7th Street, Berkeley (between Potter St. and Anthony St.)\u003cbr>\n510-548-2665\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/chefs-kof-560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/chefs-kof-560.jpg\" alt=\"Chefs MikeC and Olivier Said clowning around in the kitchen.\" title=\"Chefs MikeC and Olivier Said clowning around in the kitchen.\" width=\"560\" height=\"480\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-38056\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Chefs MikeC and Olivier Said strike a pose in the kitchen.\u003c/strong> Images courtesy of KoF\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turns out that a financial meltdown can be a good thing for a cooking school -- even one that charges $70 a class and $799 for a 12-week series of instruction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Classes at the Gourmet Ghetto-based \u003ca href=\"http://kitchenonfire.com/\">Kitchen on Fire\u003c/a> in the Epicurious Garden are in such demand that the business now boasts a second, larger facility -- at 2,500 square foot twice the size of the original location -- in West Berkeley. The public can check out the new culinary classroom at its grand opening on Saturday night. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in 2005, chefs Olivier Said and MikeC teamed up to offer cooking classes both practical and playful. Their mission: To take the mystery out of kitchen techniques and culinary language, make cooking accessible to anyone who wanted to learn how to use a knife, and have fun putting food on a plate. (\u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2010/01/29/scouting-berkeley-kitchen-on-fire/\">Read a recent review of one class\u003c/a> and what a hundred or so \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/kitchen-on-fire-berkeley\">Yelpers have to say\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the original location, KoF2 offers a range of classes, including knife-skills, regional and ethnic cuisine, couples cookery, seasonal and farmers' market fare, and specialty food preparation (everything from cocktail party soirees to one-pot family meals for weeknights). All that, plus their signature 12-week basic cooking series taught in a space decked out with state-of-the-art equipment. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(Word to the recession weary: The kitchen is currently not accepting any new culinary assistants, which has proven a popular way for cash-strapped wannabe cooks to hone their skills. In exchange for helping prep before classes and clean up after, culinary assistants attend for free.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to showing off their new digs, serving food, and talking up the school's calendar of classes, MikeC and Said will sign copies of their recent book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Kitchen-Fire-Mastering-Cooking-Weeks/dp/0738214531\">\u003cem>Kitchen on Fire: Mastering the Art of Cooking in 12 Weeks (or Less)\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, a step-by-step, technique-driven tome designed to offer new skills for the complete novice to the accomplished home cook. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/class-500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/class-500.jpg\" alt=\"Kitchen on Fire plans to offer longer classes at their new satellite site.\" title=\"Kitchen on Fire plans to offer longer classes at their new satellite site.\" width=\"500\" height=\"335\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-38055\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Kitchen on Fire plans to offer longer classes at their new satellite site.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BAB checked in with Chef MikeC to find out what's cooking at the new Kitchen on Fire location.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why did you decide to open a second Kitchen on Fire site and what drew you to this location?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our classes were filling up so quickly (and many had large wait lists) so we needed more space to handle the demand. Our new location offers close access to the freeway, \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleybowl.com/\">Berkeley Bowl West\u003c/a> is in walking distance, and it's attached to a restaurant and home chef retail store, \u003ca href=\"http://www.rocketrest.com/\">Rocket Restaurant Resource\u003c/a>. Those three things made it a perfect match for us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How has the continuing economic downturn and renewed interest in the D.I.Y. Domestic Arts impacted your business?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oddly enough we have thrived through the recession. More people seem to think learning to cook is a great idea right now, whether to save money, eat healthier, change career, or just for the love of food. People want to come into the kitchen and create enticing, delicious, nourishing experiences at home for family and friends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How is the new location different from the Gourmet Ghetto site?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is a larger facility with two kitchens. It is also a blend of home chef and restaurant cooking equipment, so we can offer classes for both the home and professional chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What can folks look forward to at the new school in terms of classes, instructors, and events?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We will offer longer (four or more hours compared to our typical three-hour) classes, as well as more series-style classes on both cooking techniques and ethnic cuisines, including Thai, Indian, and French. We're also working with an ever-growing roster of guest chef instructors that are experts in their cuisines. On the event side, we can now hold larger private and corporate parties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's unique about your cooking school?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are one of only a few independent (not part of a retail, grocery, cooking appliance) cooking schools in the country that has a focus on teaching home chefs. We have a vibrant atmosphere, with expert instructors who engaging. We explain the inner workings of food and its cookery to help students become confident cooks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're also involved in community outreach programs with non-profit partners such as \u003ca href=\"http://threesquaremeals.org/\">Three Squares\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.svdp-alameda.org/how-we-help/job-training/kitchen-of-champions.html\">St. Vincent de Paul's Kitchen of Champions\u003c/a>. We help teach people living on welfare how to feed their families healthy meals on limited budgets or learn cooking skills they can use to find work in the food service industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are the fundamental cooking techniques a novice should learn first? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Knife skills: If the food isn’t cut to the proper (and uniform) shape and size, it won’t cook evenly. Sautéing and stir frying would be next. Both are quick and easy techniques to make a meal and also the first step for many other techniques, such as making a soup or stew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>If you had to name three dishes that every home chef should know how to prepare, what would they be?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A roasted chicken and vegetables, veggie stir fry, and frittata. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/new-space500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/new-space500.jpg\" alt=\"A sneak peek inside the new Kitchen on Fire culinary classroom.\" title=\"A sneak peek inside the new Kitchen on Fire culinary classroom.\" width=\"500\" height=\"299\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-38057\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A sneak peek inside the new Kitchen on Fire culinary classroom.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Details:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kitchen on Fire West Grand Opening\u003cbr>\nSaturday, January 28, 7 p.m.-9 p.m.\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://g.co/maps/cvapa\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n(Inside Rocket Restaurant Resource)\u003cbr>\n2940 7th Street, Berkeley (between Potter St. and Anthony St.)\u003cbr>\n510-548-2665\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Sizzling Wok and Lucky Foods Welcome the Chinese New Year of the Dragon",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/dragons.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/dragons.jpg\" alt=\"dragons\" title=\"dragons\" width=\"560\" height=\"513\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37942\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Year of the Dragon roars into town today, with \u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfranciscochinatown.com/events/index.html\">two weeks of celebrations\u003c/a> capped by the famous Chinatown Parade on February 11. Saturday, I attended a New Year’s themed buffet lunch and wok cooking demonstration by acclaimed cookbook author and San Francisco native, \u003ca href=\"http://www.graceyoung.com/\">Grace Young\u003c/a>, in \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/louies-california-chinese-cuisine-san-francisco\">Louie’s restaurant\u003c/a>, a Chinatown institution.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Young —wearing a lucky red-colored top, as are many other attendees— greets her audience by reminding us that New Year’s is “the most important holiday in the Chinese calendar. It’s about renewal, rebirth and family togetherness.” Of all the animals in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art174837.asp\">Chinese horoscope\u003c/a>, the mythical dragon is thought to embody power and success. Those born under its the sign are believed to be exceptionally intelligent, creative, charismatic, fearless, lucky, generous, confident, innovative, passionate but unpredictable. No wonder millions of Chinese people are waiting to get married, start businesses and have babies this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_37949\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/grace-young.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/grace-young.jpg\" alt=\"grace young\" title=\"grace young\" width=\"300\" height=\"457\" class=\"size-full wp-image-37949\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Grace Young. Photo courtesy of Steven Mark Neeham\u003c/em>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The powerful dragon is a good symbol for Grace Young, a determined woman on a mission. Her goal: to rejuvenate authentic Chinese home cooking by keeping the wok tradition alive. “For 2000 years, the wok has been the iron thread that has bound Chinese culinary culture.” she says. “Now is the first time in his history that it’s at risk of being lost.” Non-stick woks are destroying Chinese home cooking,” declares Young passionately. “The food doesn’t taste right, because you can’t get it to sear and caramelize properly. It ends up braised and soggy. Non-stick cookware is not meant for the high heat necessary for stir-fries.” She prefers a flat-bottom, 14-inch carbon steel wok, with a long wooden handle, which can be seasoned to a warm burnished gold, like the one she is using today to make spicy long beans with sausage and mushrooms, a dish her mother taught her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides coming to celebrate the new year with her family in San Francisco, Young is on a tour to promote and sign copies of her latest book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.graceyoung.com/cookbooks/cookbook-3/\">Stir-Frying to the Sky’s Edge\u003c/a>, winner of the James Beard International Cookbook Award, which has taken her to Chinese diaspora communities around the world and steeled her resolve to share the secrets of the wok with as many home cooks as possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/grace-in-action.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/grace-in-action.jpg\" alt=\"grace in action\" title=\"grace in action\" width=\"560\" height=\"581\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37948\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nYoung demonstrates how to judge when the preheated wok is hot enough (as soon as a drop of water evaporates on contact) then swirls in the oil and quickly adds her vegetables. One tip she imparts is to listen to your food cook, “That sizzle is the wok talking to you. If you don’t hear it, it’s not hot enough.” Her green beans turn out crunchy with a delicate, smoky wok flavor, which Young says sets it apart from stir-fries made in a skillet or non-stick cookware.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/long-beans-collage-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/long-beans-collage-2.jpg\" alt=\"long beans\" title=\"long beans\" width=\"560\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37950\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, upstairs, a Chinese calligrapher inks lucky characters on red paper, and the guests line up to fill their plates with lucky foods. Wilma Pang, one of the organizers of today’s event, under the auspices of \u003ca href=\"http://wn.com/A_Better_Chinatown_Tomorrow\">A Better Chinatown Tomorrow\u003c/a>, explains the symbolism of the foods arranged on the buffet table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/Calligraphy-collage.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/Calligraphy-collage.jpg\" alt=\"Calligraphy and dumplings\" title=\"Calligraphy and dumplings\" width=\"560\" height=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37947\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nMany dishes are considered lucky because their Chinese names are homonyms for auspicious goals; others insure a good year because of their shapes or colors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The word for celery (choi) is a homonym for hard work,” Pang explains, and it portends the monetary result of all that effort. Green onions stand for intelligence; the turnip cake signifies that things will keep getting better. The apple means smooth sailing ahead and the tangerine is considered lucky because its orange color connects to gold. Its leaves represent growth and prosperity. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although, many Chinese New Years foods vary by family and village, the one universal dish is crescent shaped \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jiaozi\">dumplings\u003c/a>. Traditionally, dumplings are made on New Years Eve by all the members of the family, working together. Their shape represents gold ingots and so symbolizes good fortune for the upcoming year. “The more you make, it’s like putting money in the bank,” says Pang. “And often, we hide a coin in one dumpling for a lucky diner to find.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/chicken-close-up.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/chicken-close-up.jpg\" alt=\"whole chicken\" title=\" whole chicken \" width=\"560\" height=\"453\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37946\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pang points out the chicken with its head and feet still attached. “Very important to cook an entire chicken, for family togetherness.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/cookies.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/cookies.jpg\" alt=\"cookies\" title=\"cookies\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37945\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n“See these cookies that open up with a smiling face, they represent happiness,” says Pang.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/arrowroot-collage.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/arrowroot-collage.jpg\" alt=\"arrowroot\" title=\"arrowroot \" width=\"560\" height=\"282\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37944\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the meal, there is one dish that has even the Chinese diners stumped. What are those roundish starchy vegetables? “Arrowroot,” Pang answers and holds up a fresh one, slyly smiling as she explains, “See this shape, with the little part that sticks out – that’s for having boy babies.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After lunch, I have a chance to chat with Grace Young and ask her a few questions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She grew up eating the traditional Cantonese foods her parents prepared. But at age 12, discovered Julia Child on TV and became fascinated with French cooking, and its entirely different culinary vocabulary. After apprenticing with French chef Josephine Araldo in San Francisco, Young moved to New York in 1979, and worked writing and testing recipes for General Foods. Then she ran the test kitchen at Time Life Books for 18 years, and produced more than 40 cookbooks that spanned the globe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A chance comment from a cousin ignited the spark of Young’s passion to explore her own family’s culinary culture. Her cousin said, ”When it comes to Chinese cooking, I don’t even try because you can’t beat the Chinese take-out in San Francisco.” Young feared that if most second generation Chinese shared her cousin’s indifference towards learning to make the food of their ancestors, a wealth of authentic recipes and foodways might disappear. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For three years, she made numerous visits to San Francisco to learn her parents’ and family’s recipes. This led to her parents sharing stories about customs and traditions associated with the food, as well as tales from their lives in China that she had never heard before. Young’s first book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.graceyoung.com/cookbooks/cookbook-1/\">The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen\u003c/a>, was published in 1999 and won the IACP Best International Cookbook. Young is proudest of this book because she feels it preserves traditional Chinese home cooking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is the dish you made today special for Chinese New Year's?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nNot specifically, but it has mushrooms which grow quickly and so symbolize prosperity. I made this dish today because it’s one of my mother’s favorites. Now that she’s getting older and doesn’t cook, I’m so grateful I have recorded her recipes in my book. When I go back and reread them, it’s as if I can hear her still talking to me through the recipes. For all these years, she always made the New Year’s Eve meal and now in the last few years I am able, through my book, to make it for her. It’s ironic because I always thought that I was writing for the next generation. And in a million years I never dreamed I would give this back to my mother. When I make her a special New Year’s dish, like turnip cake, her face lights up, because food is memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is there a certain dish you always have for New Year's eve dinner?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFish is the standard dish at the end of the meal. The word for fish “yu” means wish and signifies abundance. It is essential to serve the complete fish, with the head and tail attached to ensure a good beginning and end to the year. Traditionally purchased live from a tank where one can pick out a strong swimmer, the poached fish with scallions and ginger is served as the last course of the New Year’s Eve feast, but not completely consumed. The leftovers are eaten the next day, so that its abundance will spill over into the New Year. Lobster, as the king of the ocean, represents the energy of the dragon. But any seafood is auspicious. Shrimp, whose name ha sounds like laughter, represents happiness; the shells of clams and scallops resemble old Chinese coins and therefore portend prosperity. Also, the clam shells open as you stir fry them, signifying a new beginning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's the difference between the Chinatowns in San Francisco and New York?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFor me, San Francisco Chinatown has such sweet memories. My father was a liquor salesman and so the owners of every restaurant and shop knew him and gave us a special welcome. Plus, the produce in California is so much more abundant and pristine in quality, especially the Asian vegetables. I love the hustle bustle and energy of shopping on Stockton Street. When a grocer brings out a new box of baby bok choy or snow pea shoots and rips it open, all of a sudden everyone lunges towards it with frenzied excitement and all these hands try to grab the freshest greens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we finish our interview, I accompany Grace on a short walk to \u003ca href=\"http://www.wokshop.com/\">The Wok Shop\u003c/a>, a bustling little warren, filled chock-a-block with woks, gadgets and cooking accessories, whose owner Tane Chan graciously provided the seasoned wok for today’s cooking demonstration. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/wok-shop.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/wok-shop.jpg\" alt=\"wok shop\" title=\"wok shop\" width=\"560\" height=\"553\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37943\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n“This is the best wok store in the whole country,” says Grace as she leads me right to the tower of carbonized steel flat bottom woks (only $24.95). And I gladly buy one. No use resisting the power of the dragon.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/dragons.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/dragons.jpg\" alt=\"dragons\" title=\"dragons\" width=\"560\" height=\"513\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37942\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Year of the Dragon roars into town today, with \u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfranciscochinatown.com/events/index.html\">two weeks of celebrations\u003c/a> capped by the famous Chinatown Parade on February 11. Saturday, I attended a New Year’s themed buffet lunch and wok cooking demonstration by acclaimed cookbook author and San Francisco native, \u003ca href=\"http://www.graceyoung.com/\">Grace Young\u003c/a>, in \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/louies-california-chinese-cuisine-san-francisco\">Louie’s restaurant\u003c/a>, a Chinatown institution.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Young —wearing a lucky red-colored top, as are many other attendees— greets her audience by reminding us that New Year’s is “the most important holiday in the Chinese calendar. It’s about renewal, rebirth and family togetherness.” Of all the animals in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art174837.asp\">Chinese horoscope\u003c/a>, the mythical dragon is thought to embody power and success. Those born under its the sign are believed to be exceptionally intelligent, creative, charismatic, fearless, lucky, generous, confident, innovative, passionate but unpredictable. No wonder millions of Chinese people are waiting to get married, start businesses and have babies this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_37949\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/grace-young.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/grace-young.jpg\" alt=\"grace young\" title=\"grace young\" width=\"300\" height=\"457\" class=\"size-full wp-image-37949\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Grace Young. Photo courtesy of Steven Mark Neeham\u003c/em>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The powerful dragon is a good symbol for Grace Young, a determined woman on a mission. Her goal: to rejuvenate authentic Chinese home cooking by keeping the wok tradition alive. “For 2000 years, the wok has been the iron thread that has bound Chinese culinary culture.” she says. “Now is the first time in his history that it’s at risk of being lost.” Non-stick woks are destroying Chinese home cooking,” declares Young passionately. “The food doesn’t taste right, because you can’t get it to sear and caramelize properly. It ends up braised and soggy. Non-stick cookware is not meant for the high heat necessary for stir-fries.” She prefers a flat-bottom, 14-inch carbon steel wok, with a long wooden handle, which can be seasoned to a warm burnished gold, like the one she is using today to make spicy long beans with sausage and mushrooms, a dish her mother taught her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides coming to celebrate the new year with her family in San Francisco, Young is on a tour to promote and sign copies of her latest book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.graceyoung.com/cookbooks/cookbook-3/\">Stir-Frying to the Sky’s Edge\u003c/a>, winner of the James Beard International Cookbook Award, which has taken her to Chinese diaspora communities around the world and steeled her resolve to share the secrets of the wok with as many home cooks as possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/grace-in-action.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/grace-in-action.jpg\" alt=\"grace in action\" title=\"grace in action\" width=\"560\" height=\"581\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37948\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nYoung demonstrates how to judge when the preheated wok is hot enough (as soon as a drop of water evaporates on contact) then swirls in the oil and quickly adds her vegetables. One tip she imparts is to listen to your food cook, “That sizzle is the wok talking to you. If you don’t hear it, it’s not hot enough.” Her green beans turn out crunchy with a delicate, smoky wok flavor, which Young says sets it apart from stir-fries made in a skillet or non-stick cookware.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/long-beans-collage-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/long-beans-collage-2.jpg\" alt=\"long beans\" title=\"long beans\" width=\"560\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37950\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, upstairs, a Chinese calligrapher inks lucky characters on red paper, and the guests line up to fill their plates with lucky foods. Wilma Pang, one of the organizers of today’s event, under the auspices of \u003ca href=\"http://wn.com/A_Better_Chinatown_Tomorrow\">A Better Chinatown Tomorrow\u003c/a>, explains the symbolism of the foods arranged on the buffet table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/Calligraphy-collage.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/Calligraphy-collage.jpg\" alt=\"Calligraphy and dumplings\" title=\"Calligraphy and dumplings\" width=\"560\" height=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37947\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nMany dishes are considered lucky because their Chinese names are homonyms for auspicious goals; others insure a good year because of their shapes or colors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The word for celery (choi) is a homonym for hard work,” Pang explains, and it portends the monetary result of all that effort. Green onions stand for intelligence; the turnip cake signifies that things will keep getting better. The apple means smooth sailing ahead and the tangerine is considered lucky because its orange color connects to gold. Its leaves represent growth and prosperity. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although, many Chinese New Years foods vary by family and village, the one universal dish is crescent shaped \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jiaozi\">dumplings\u003c/a>. Traditionally, dumplings are made on New Years Eve by all the members of the family, working together. Their shape represents gold ingots and so symbolizes good fortune for the upcoming year. “The more you make, it’s like putting money in the bank,” says Pang. “And often, we hide a coin in one dumpling for a lucky diner to find.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/chicken-close-up.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/chicken-close-up.jpg\" alt=\"whole chicken\" title=\" whole chicken \" width=\"560\" height=\"453\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37946\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pang points out the chicken with its head and feet still attached. “Very important to cook an entire chicken, for family togetherness.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/cookies.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/cookies.jpg\" alt=\"cookies\" title=\"cookies\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37945\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n“See these cookies that open up with a smiling face, they represent happiness,” says Pang.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/arrowroot-collage.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/arrowroot-collage.jpg\" alt=\"arrowroot\" title=\"arrowroot \" width=\"560\" height=\"282\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37944\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the meal, there is one dish that has even the Chinese diners stumped. What are those roundish starchy vegetables? “Arrowroot,” Pang answers and holds up a fresh one, slyly smiling as she explains, “See this shape, with the little part that sticks out – that’s for having boy babies.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After lunch, I have a chance to chat with Grace Young and ask her a few questions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She grew up eating the traditional Cantonese foods her parents prepared. But at age 12, discovered Julia Child on TV and became fascinated with French cooking, and its entirely different culinary vocabulary. After apprenticing with French chef Josephine Araldo in San Francisco, Young moved to New York in 1979, and worked writing and testing recipes for General Foods. Then she ran the test kitchen at Time Life Books for 18 years, and produced more than 40 cookbooks that spanned the globe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A chance comment from a cousin ignited the spark of Young’s passion to explore her own family’s culinary culture. Her cousin said, ”When it comes to Chinese cooking, I don’t even try because you can’t beat the Chinese take-out in San Francisco.” Young feared that if most second generation Chinese shared her cousin’s indifference towards learning to make the food of their ancestors, a wealth of authentic recipes and foodways might disappear. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For three years, she made numerous visits to San Francisco to learn her parents’ and family’s recipes. This led to her parents sharing stories about customs and traditions associated with the food, as well as tales from their lives in China that she had never heard before. Young’s first book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.graceyoung.com/cookbooks/cookbook-1/\">The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen\u003c/a>, was published in 1999 and won the IACP Best International Cookbook. Young is proudest of this book because she feels it preserves traditional Chinese home cooking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is the dish you made today special for Chinese New Year's?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nNot specifically, but it has mushrooms which grow quickly and so symbolize prosperity. I made this dish today because it’s one of my mother’s favorites. Now that she’s getting older and doesn’t cook, I’m so grateful I have recorded her recipes in my book. When I go back and reread them, it’s as if I can hear her still talking to me through the recipes. For all these years, she always made the New Year’s Eve meal and now in the last few years I am able, through my book, to make it for her. It’s ironic because I always thought that I was writing for the next generation. And in a million years I never dreamed I would give this back to my mother. When I make her a special New Year’s dish, like turnip cake, her face lights up, because food is memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is there a certain dish you always have for New Year's eve dinner?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFish is the standard dish at the end of the meal. The word for fish “yu” means wish and signifies abundance. It is essential to serve the complete fish, with the head and tail attached to ensure a good beginning and end to the year. Traditionally purchased live from a tank where one can pick out a strong swimmer, the poached fish with scallions and ginger is served as the last course of the New Year’s Eve feast, but not completely consumed. The leftovers are eaten the next day, so that its abundance will spill over into the New Year. Lobster, as the king of the ocean, represents the energy of the dragon. But any seafood is auspicious. Shrimp, whose name ha sounds like laughter, represents happiness; the shells of clams and scallops resemble old Chinese coins and therefore portend prosperity. Also, the clam shells open as you stir fry them, signifying a new beginning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's the difference between the Chinatowns in San Francisco and New York?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFor me, San Francisco Chinatown has such sweet memories. My father was a liquor salesman and so the owners of every restaurant and shop knew him and gave us a special welcome. Plus, the produce in California is so much more abundant and pristine in quality, especially the Asian vegetables. I love the hustle bustle and energy of shopping on Stockton Street. When a grocer brings out a new box of baby bok choy or snow pea shoots and rips it open, all of a sudden everyone lunges towards it with frenzied excitement and all these hands try to grab the freshest greens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we finish our interview, I accompany Grace on a short walk to \u003ca href=\"http://www.wokshop.com/\">The Wok Shop\u003c/a>, a bustling little warren, filled chock-a-block with woks, gadgets and cooking accessories, whose owner Tane Chan graciously provided the seasoned wok for today’s cooking demonstration. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/wok-shop.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/wok-shop.jpg\" alt=\"wok shop\" title=\"wok shop\" width=\"560\" height=\"553\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37943\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n“This is the best wok store in the whole country,” says Grace as she leads me right to the tower of carbonized steel flat bottom woks (only $24.95). And I gladly buy one. No use resisting the power of the dragon.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Bay Area Favorites at the 2012 Fancy Food Show",
"title": "Bay Area Favorites at the 2012 Fancy Food Show",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/fancyfood-center.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/fancyfood-center.jpg\" alt=\"Fancy Food Show - Moscone Center\" title=\"Fancy Food Show - Moscone Center\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37740\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s no secret that we're spoiled here in the Bay Area due to an abundance of artisanal, locally produced gourmet specialty foods. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, it's not a surprise that while attending this year's massive \u003ca href=\"http://www.specialtyfood.com/fancy-food-show/winter-fancy-food-show/\">Fancy Food Show\u003c/a> at San Francisco’s Moscone Center many of the favorite products I tasted were produced by Bay Area purveyors.\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n \u003cstrong>Here are my top six recommendations:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://bridgebrandschocolate.com/wineloverschocolate.aspx\">Wine Lovers Chocolate\u003c/a> by \u003ca href=\"http://bridgebrandschocolate.com/\">Bridge Brands Chocolate\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nThe folks at Bridge Brands Chocolate based in San Francisco have taken two great tastes and paired them perfectly together: wine and chocolate. Their tins of various percentages of dark chocolate, milk chocolate or white chocolate claim to pair best with different types of wine. I tasted a few of the varieties and especially liked the ones that paired with Merlot and Syrah. \n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/winelovers-chocolate.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/winelovers-chocolate.jpg\" alt=\"Wine Lovers Chocolate\" title=\"Wine Lovers Chocolate\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37741\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://anettes.securesites.com/shop.html?Category=Beer%20Brittles%20plus...&Product_ID=119\">Chili Lime Tequila Tortilla Brittle\u003c/a> by \u003ca href=\"http://www.anettes.com/\">Anette’s Chocolates\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nThis Napa based brother and sister owned company have made a name for themselves with their Chardonnay, bourbon and beer peanut brittle products that are both salty and sweet. But their newest award-winning brittle is a savory one. It’s a little citrusy, a little spicy, and has a dose of tequila, tortilla chips and roasted pumpkin seeds. It’s a very different snack that’ll surprise you with its great texture and flavors.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://hodosoy.com/products/grab-and-go/\">Spicy Yuba Strips and Five Spice Tofu Nuggets\u003c/a> by \u003ca href=\"http://hodosoy.com/\">Hodo Soy Beanery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nLocal foodies and chefs swear by Minh Tsai’s tofu products. Hodo Soy Beanery's artisan produced, organic, non-GMO tofu is higher in protein and fat than most others, resulting in a creamier, some say superior, product. The \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/03/12/yuba-city/\">Yuba Strips\u003c/a>, which are the skin that forms on top of steaming soy milk, have the texture of a thin flat noodle, so it makes for a great pasta alternative. Both the Yuba Strips and the Tofu Nuggets make for zesty, full-flavored meat substitutes that have an unexpected kick. Oakland-based Hodo Soy is now selling their products at select Costco stores in California so this superior tofu will be more accessible.\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/hodo-soy.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/hodo-soy.jpg\" alt=\"Hodo Soy Beanery\" title=\"Hodo Soy Beanery\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37738\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.threetwinsicecream.com/icecream/flavors/lemon-cookie\">Lemon Cookie Ice Cream\u003c/a> by \u003ca href=\"http://www.threetwinsicecream.com/\">Three Twins Ice Cream\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPetaluma produced and Bay Area born, this company’s ice cream is exceptionally creamy, decadent, organic and doesn’t contain things you can’t pronounce. Their Lemon Cookie flavor is their most popular, even beating out the perennial favorite, vanilla. It’s a delicious combination of lemon ice cream and vanilla cream sandwich cookies. I’m drooling just thinking about it. \n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/three-twins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/three-twins.jpg\" alt=\"Three Twins Ice Cream\" title=\"Three Twins Ice Cream\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37742\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovechevre.com/cheeses/creamline/midnight-moon.html\">Midnight Moon\u003c/a> by \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovechevre.com/\">Cypress Grove Chevre\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nThis Arcata-based cheese company produces the finest goat cheese you can find. Though they’re celebrating the 20th anniversary of their most popular cheese, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovechevre.com/cheeses/ripened-cheeses/humboldt-fog.html\">Humboldt Fog\u003c/a> variety, it’s the Midnight Moon that steals my heart every single time I taste it. It’s a hard cheese that is creamy and has a gouda-like flavor, complete with salty crystals for texture. The salty bite and lack of gamey flavor makes this versatile cheese perfect for snacking alone or in combination with other items like fresh fruit. I’ve continued to declare it one of my favorite cheeses of all time.\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/midnight-moon-cheese.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/midnight-moon-cheese.jpg\" alt=\"Cypress Grove Chevre - Midnight Moon Cheese\" title=\"Cypress Grove Chevre - Midnight Moon Cheese\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37739\">\u003c/a>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.republicoftea.com/product.aspx?p=V01076\">20th Anniversary Celebration Tea\u003c/a> by \u003ca href=\"http://www.republicoftea.com/\">Republic of Tea\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nThis Novato-based company has come a long way in 20 years. They now feature hundreds of different varieties of teas and have come out with two new ones to celebrate their 20th birthday. The one that stands out is their Anniversary Celebration variety that boasts black tea, sweet white wine grapes, and is infused with the essence of champagne. It’s a pretty clever and unexpected flavor combination for a tea. After all, what’s a birthday without a little wine and champagne? \n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/celebration-tea.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/celebration-tea.jpg\" alt=\"20th Anniversary Celebration Tea\" title=\"20th Anniversary Celebration Tea\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37737\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"excerpt": "It’s no secret that we're spoiled here in the Bay Area due to an abundance of artisanal, locally produced gourmet specialty foods.\r\n\r\nSo, it's not a surprise that while attending this year's massive Fancy Food Show at San Francisco’s Moscone Center many of the favorite products I tasted were produced by Bay Area purveyors.\r\n\r\nHere are my top six recommendations.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/fancyfood-center.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/fancyfood-center.jpg\" alt=\"Fancy Food Show - Moscone Center\" title=\"Fancy Food Show - Moscone Center\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37740\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s no secret that we're spoiled here in the Bay Area due to an abundance of artisanal, locally produced gourmet specialty foods. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, it's not a surprise that while attending this year's massive \u003ca href=\"http://www.specialtyfood.com/fancy-food-show/winter-fancy-food-show/\">Fancy Food Show\u003c/a> at San Francisco’s Moscone Center many of the favorite products I tasted were produced by Bay Area purveyors.\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n \u003cstrong>Here are my top six recommendations:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://bridgebrandschocolate.com/wineloverschocolate.aspx\">Wine Lovers Chocolate\u003c/a> by \u003ca href=\"http://bridgebrandschocolate.com/\">Bridge Brands Chocolate\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nThe folks at Bridge Brands Chocolate based in San Francisco have taken two great tastes and paired them perfectly together: wine and chocolate. Their tins of various percentages of dark chocolate, milk chocolate or white chocolate claim to pair best with different types of wine. I tasted a few of the varieties and especially liked the ones that paired with Merlot and Syrah. \n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/winelovers-chocolate.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/winelovers-chocolate.jpg\" alt=\"Wine Lovers Chocolate\" title=\"Wine Lovers Chocolate\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37741\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://anettes.securesites.com/shop.html?Category=Beer%20Brittles%20plus...&Product_ID=119\">Chili Lime Tequila Tortilla Brittle\u003c/a> by \u003ca href=\"http://www.anettes.com/\">Anette’s Chocolates\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nThis Napa based brother and sister owned company have made a name for themselves with their Chardonnay, bourbon and beer peanut brittle products that are both salty and sweet. But their newest award-winning brittle is a savory one. It’s a little citrusy, a little spicy, and has a dose of tequila, tortilla chips and roasted pumpkin seeds. It’s a very different snack that’ll surprise you with its great texture and flavors.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://hodosoy.com/products/grab-and-go/\">Spicy Yuba Strips and Five Spice Tofu Nuggets\u003c/a> by \u003ca href=\"http://hodosoy.com/\">Hodo Soy Beanery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nLocal foodies and chefs swear by Minh Tsai’s tofu products. Hodo Soy Beanery's artisan produced, organic, non-GMO tofu is higher in protein and fat than most others, resulting in a creamier, some say superior, product. The \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/03/12/yuba-city/\">Yuba Strips\u003c/a>, which are the skin that forms on top of steaming soy milk, have the texture of a thin flat noodle, so it makes for a great pasta alternative. Both the Yuba Strips and the Tofu Nuggets make for zesty, full-flavored meat substitutes that have an unexpected kick. Oakland-based Hodo Soy is now selling their products at select Costco stores in California so this superior tofu will be more accessible.\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/hodo-soy.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/hodo-soy.jpg\" alt=\"Hodo Soy Beanery\" title=\"Hodo Soy Beanery\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37738\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.threetwinsicecream.com/icecream/flavors/lemon-cookie\">Lemon Cookie Ice Cream\u003c/a> by \u003ca href=\"http://www.threetwinsicecream.com/\">Three Twins Ice Cream\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPetaluma produced and Bay Area born, this company’s ice cream is exceptionally creamy, decadent, organic and doesn’t contain things you can’t pronounce. Their Lemon Cookie flavor is their most popular, even beating out the perennial favorite, vanilla. It’s a delicious combination of lemon ice cream and vanilla cream sandwich cookies. I’m drooling just thinking about it. \n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/three-twins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/three-twins.jpg\" alt=\"Three Twins Ice Cream\" title=\"Three Twins Ice Cream\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37742\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovechevre.com/cheeses/creamline/midnight-moon.html\">Midnight Moon\u003c/a> by \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovechevre.com/\">Cypress Grove Chevre\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nThis Arcata-based cheese company produces the finest goat cheese you can find. Though they’re celebrating the 20th anniversary of their most popular cheese, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovechevre.com/cheeses/ripened-cheeses/humboldt-fog.html\">Humboldt Fog\u003c/a> variety, it’s the Midnight Moon that steals my heart every single time I taste it. It’s a hard cheese that is creamy and has a gouda-like flavor, complete with salty crystals for texture. The salty bite and lack of gamey flavor makes this versatile cheese perfect for snacking alone or in combination with other items like fresh fruit. I’ve continued to declare it one of my favorite cheeses of all time.\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/midnight-moon-cheese.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/midnight-moon-cheese.jpg\" alt=\"Cypress Grove Chevre - Midnight Moon Cheese\" title=\"Cypress Grove Chevre - Midnight Moon Cheese\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37739\">\u003c/a>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.republicoftea.com/product.aspx?p=V01076\">20th Anniversary Celebration Tea\u003c/a> by \u003ca href=\"http://www.republicoftea.com/\">Republic of Tea\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nThis Novato-based company has come a long way in 20 years. They now feature hundreds of different varieties of teas and have come out with two new ones to celebrate their 20th birthday. The one that stands out is their Anniversary Celebration variety that boasts black tea, sweet white wine grapes, and is infused with the essence of champagne. It’s a pretty clever and unexpected flavor combination for a tea. After all, what’s a birthday without a little wine and champagne? \n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/celebration-tea.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/celebration-tea.jpg\" alt=\"20th Anniversary Celebration Tea\" title=\"20th Anniversary Celebration Tea\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37737\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/caleb-ruth-alice.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/caleb-ruth-alice.jpg\" alt=\"Caleb Zigas of La Cocina, Ruth Reichl, and Alice Waters, at the Good Food Awards.\" title=\"Caleb Zigas of La Cocina, Ruth Reichl, and Alice Waters, at the Good Food Awards.\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37686\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Caleb Zigas of La Cocina, Ruth Reichl, and Alice Waters, at the Good Food Awards.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://www.ruthreichl.com/\">Ruth Reichl\u003c/a> was standing in front of a gigantic American flag hanging like a banner along the wall of the Ferry Building on Friday, January 13th. It was a backdrop worthy of any Presidential hopeful stumping for votes in the heartland, but here, the stars and stripes were evoking not just Mom and apple pie but Mom's apple pie, and maybe great-granddaddy's moonshine, and now their kids' apple-whiskey chutney and curried cauliflower pickles. It was time to welcome the room of makers and media, gathered in San Francisco for the 2nd annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a>, a celebration of the best of artisanal food production from coast to coast. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Most of you are too young to have grown up in the white-bread world that I did,\" said Reichl. Every cheese was sliced and wrapped in plastic, all strawberries were huge and tasted like cotton. This changed, slowly, through the work of pioneers like Alice Waters, sitting off to one side of the podium, as well as dozens of other food pioneers. Reichl remembered the first time she walked into \u003ca href=\"http://cheeseboardcollective.coop/\">The Cheeseboard\u003c/a>, in Berkeley and was handed a taste of \u003ca href=\"http://www.laurachenel.com/\">Laura Chenel\u003c/a>'s Sonoma-made fresh goat cheese. Reichl lived on it all that summer, and knew that she had to meet the woman making something so new (to American tastes) and so delicious. Then there was \"Artists of the Earth,\" an article she wrote for California magazine in the early 1980s, profiling nine men and women making a difference in the food world and beyond. \"They are some of California's most valuable resources,\" she wrote then, \"...perfectionists who work very hard not because they expect to get rich but simply because they expect to get the best.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Walking through Chino Ranch with Alice a few years later, she was amazed at the quality of produce surrounding them. Corn so sweet it needed no cooking. Strawberries so intensely fragrant that every fellow traveler on the small plane she and Alice were taking from San Diego to Oakland came up and begged for a berry off the flats they were carrying in their laps. \"Every person said, 'I forgot strawberries could smell like that! Please, can I just have one?'\" she recounted. \"And I watched Alice give away that night's dessert for \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a>, because how could she say no?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Back then, I never could have dreamed how huge the change was going to be. We now live in a country that has the best produce in the world...We are reclaiming our edible heritage. \"Thank you for giving us the America we once dreamed we could have.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>After this came the awards, 99 products in eight categories (coffee, chocolate, charcuterie, pickles, preserves, cheese, beer, spirits). There were no single winners; instead, each category had a fat handful of top picks, from seven coffee roasters to 14 preserve-makers. \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/good-food-awards-winners-2012/\">The winners\u003c/a>, like food-world Olympians, got medallions stamped in the shape of the tools of their trade--a cleaver, a canning jar--strung on wide red-white-and-blue ribbons to hang around their necks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was hard not to feel a little hometown, homestate pride at the fine showing the Bay Area, and California, made in the final running. Two local beers made the cut, at opposite ends of the brewing spectrum: from San Leandro, \u003ca href=\"http://www.drakesbrewingcompany.com\">Drake's Brewing Company\u003c/a>'s high-alcohol, rich-as-devil's-food \u003cstrong>Drakonic Imperial Stout\u003c/strong>, and from Petaluma, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.lagunitas.com\">Lagunitas Brewing Company\u003c/a>'s spritzy, grapefruity ale, dubbed \u003cstrong>A Lil' Sumpin' Sumpin'\u003c/strong>. In the coffee category, \u003ca href=\"http://www.equatorcoffees.com\">Equator Coffees\u003c/a> from San Rafael won for its fair trade/organic Ethiopian Watadera beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In pickles, California snagged three of the 11 winning picks, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmhouseculture.com\">Farmhouse Culture\u003c/a>'s \u003cstrong>Smoked Jalapeno Sauerkraut,\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://emmyspicklesandjams.com/\">Emmy's Pickles and Jams\u003c/a>' \u003cstrong>Turmeric Cauliflower,\u003c/strong> and the \u003cstrong>Devil Sauce\u003c/strong> made by \u003ca href=\"http://www.letsbefrankdogs.com\">Let's Be Frank\u003c/a>, of grass-fed hot-dog truck fame. (And we'll give a California hug to OlyKraut, which was founded by Sash Sunday, a former San Franciscan who got into the kraut biz shortly after relocating to Olympia, WA. Plus, she makes nettle kraut!) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/olykraut560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/olykraut560.jpg\" alt=\"OlyKraut, from left: Sash Sunday, Alexia Crousnillon, Nate Masse not pictured: Summer Bock\" title=\"OlyKraut, From left: Sash Sunday, Alexia Crousnillon, Nate Masse not pictured: Summer Bock\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37689\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>OlyKraut, from left: Sash Sunday, Alexia Crousnillon, Nate Massé (not pictured: Summer Bock)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We tied with New York in the cutthroat preserves category, winning for \u003ca href=\"http://www.artisanpreserves.com/\">Artisan Preserves'\u003c/a> \u003cstrong>Orange Honey Marmalade,\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://shop.chezpim.com/\">Chez Pim\u003c/a>'s \u003cstrong>Blueberry-Golden Raspberry Preserves,\u003c/strong> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.wineforest.com\">Wine Forest Wild Foods'\u003c/a> \u003cstrong>Wild Elderberry Shrub.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/WYLIEWHISKEY560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/WYLIEWHISKEY560.jpg\" alt=\"Wylie Whiskey\" title=\"Wylie Whiskey\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37684\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wylie Whiskey, from left: Matt Jones, Garrett Hale, Sarah Swearington.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a cascade of riches from our part of the Golden State: Costa Rican chocolate bars from \u003ca href=\"http://www.dandelionchocolate.com/\">Dandelion Chocolate\u003c/a> in SF; white whiskey from \u003ca href=\"http://www.wyliehowell.com\">Wylie Howell Spirits\u003c/a> in Petaluma; \u003cstrong>Carmody\u003c/strong> (my favorite!) and \u003cstrong>whole-milk ricotta\u003c/strong> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.bellwethercheese.com\">Bellwether Farms\u003c/a> in West Marin; \u003cstrong>yogurt cheese\u003c/strong> from Sonoma's \u003ca href=\"http://www.stbenoit.com\">St. Benoit\u003c/a>, \u003cstrong>pork, rabbit, and duck terrine\u003c/strong> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com\">Fatted Calf\u003c/a> in SF and Napa; \u003cstrong>speck\u003c/strong> from Oakland wine bar/salumeria \u003ca href=\"http://www.dopoadesso.com/adesso/\">Adesso\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/dandelionchoc560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/dandelionchoc560.jpg\" alt=\"From left: Alice Nystrom, Todd Masonis of Dandelion Chocolate\" title=\"From left: Alice Nystrom, Todd Masonis of Dandelion Chocolate\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37687\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dandelion Chocolate: Alice Nystrom, Todd Masonis\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Come the next morning, many of the previous night's winners were out in force at the Good Food Awards Marketplace, a tasting/selling spread of tables organized by category set up under the archways of the Ferry Building. Reichl, who now runs the specialty food (and content) site \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilttaste.com/\">Gilt Taste\u003c/a>, was on hand with a keen appetite, even after a late-night dinner with Alice and friends at Locanda in the Mission. Already, she's tried the chilaquiles and shrimp ceviche at the Primavera market stand, and tells me, joyfully, of the \"best breakfast sandwich\" she's ever had, from \u003ca href=\"http://www.4505meats.com\">4505 Meats\u003c/a>: a soft, buttery brioche bun piled with a maple-bacon sausage patty, an oozy-centered fried egg, and a frizz of snappy peppercress. Speaking of her talk the previous night, she laughed at the thought of trying to profile just eight makers now. \"At the time, it was hard to find even eight people, enough to write about. I had to include a produce distributor, a guy who was raising pigs and lambs for Chez Panisse. Now, that would be ridiculous. You'd have to write an encyclopedia!\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If anything, she thinks we're underestimating the strength and staying power of the artisan movement. Already, the food makers' landscape has changed drastically in just the past five years. In the next five, ten years, what will it look like? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/KathrynLukasFarmhouseCulture560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/KathrynLukasFarmhouseCulture560.jpg\" alt=\"Kathryn Lukas of Farmhouse Culture\" title=\"Kathryn Lukas of Farmhouse Culture\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37688\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Kathryn Lukas of Farmhouse Culture\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's no doubt, though, that the movement is fostering ever-closer relationships between chefs, makers and farmers. These products, from basil vodka to sea-vegetable kraut, are only as good as their raw ingredients. Recounting a cabbage blight that decimated the California crop last year, Farmhouse Culture founder Kathryn Lukas quoted Let's Be Frank's Larry Bain, laughing, \"It's hard when you're in business with God.\"\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/caleb-ruth-alice.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/caleb-ruth-alice.jpg\" alt=\"Caleb Zigas of La Cocina, Ruth Reichl, and Alice Waters, at the Good Food Awards.\" title=\"Caleb Zigas of La Cocina, Ruth Reichl, and Alice Waters, at the Good Food Awards.\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37686\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Caleb Zigas of La Cocina, Ruth Reichl, and Alice Waters, at the Good Food Awards.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://www.ruthreichl.com/\">Ruth Reichl\u003c/a> was standing in front of a gigantic American flag hanging like a banner along the wall of the Ferry Building on Friday, January 13th. It was a backdrop worthy of any Presidential hopeful stumping for votes in the heartland, but here, the stars and stripes were evoking not just Mom and apple pie but Mom's apple pie, and maybe great-granddaddy's moonshine, and now their kids' apple-whiskey chutney and curried cauliflower pickles. It was time to welcome the room of makers and media, gathered in San Francisco for the 2nd annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a>, a celebration of the best of artisanal food production from coast to coast. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Most of you are too young to have grown up in the white-bread world that I did,\" said Reichl. Every cheese was sliced and wrapped in plastic, all strawberries were huge and tasted like cotton. This changed, slowly, through the work of pioneers like Alice Waters, sitting off to one side of the podium, as well as dozens of other food pioneers. Reichl remembered the first time she walked into \u003ca href=\"http://cheeseboardcollective.coop/\">The Cheeseboard\u003c/a>, in Berkeley and was handed a taste of \u003ca href=\"http://www.laurachenel.com/\">Laura Chenel\u003c/a>'s Sonoma-made fresh goat cheese. Reichl lived on it all that summer, and knew that she had to meet the woman making something so new (to American tastes) and so delicious. Then there was \"Artists of the Earth,\" an article she wrote for California magazine in the early 1980s, profiling nine men and women making a difference in the food world and beyond. \"They are some of California's most valuable resources,\" she wrote then, \"...perfectionists who work very hard not because they expect to get rich but simply because they expect to get the best.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Walking through Chino Ranch with Alice a few years later, she was amazed at the quality of produce surrounding them. Corn so sweet it needed no cooking. Strawberries so intensely fragrant that every fellow traveler on the small plane she and Alice were taking from San Diego to Oakland came up and begged for a berry off the flats they were carrying in their laps. \"Every person said, 'I forgot strawberries could smell like that! Please, can I just have one?'\" she recounted. \"And I watched Alice give away that night's dessert for \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a>, because how could she say no?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Back then, I never could have dreamed how huge the change was going to be. We now live in a country that has the best produce in the world...We are reclaiming our edible heritage. \"Thank you for giving us the America we once dreamed we could have.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>After this came the awards, 99 products in eight categories (coffee, chocolate, charcuterie, pickles, preserves, cheese, beer, spirits). There were no single winners; instead, each category had a fat handful of top picks, from seven coffee roasters to 14 preserve-makers. \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/good-food-awards-winners-2012/\">The winners\u003c/a>, like food-world Olympians, got medallions stamped in the shape of the tools of their trade--a cleaver, a canning jar--strung on wide red-white-and-blue ribbons to hang around their necks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was hard not to feel a little hometown, homestate pride at the fine showing the Bay Area, and California, made in the final running. Two local beers made the cut, at opposite ends of the brewing spectrum: from San Leandro, \u003ca href=\"http://www.drakesbrewingcompany.com\">Drake's Brewing Company\u003c/a>'s high-alcohol, rich-as-devil's-food \u003cstrong>Drakonic Imperial Stout\u003c/strong>, and from Petaluma, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.lagunitas.com\">Lagunitas Brewing Company\u003c/a>'s spritzy, grapefruity ale, dubbed \u003cstrong>A Lil' Sumpin' Sumpin'\u003c/strong>. In the coffee category, \u003ca href=\"http://www.equatorcoffees.com\">Equator Coffees\u003c/a> from San Rafael won for its fair trade/organic Ethiopian Watadera beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In pickles, California snagged three of the 11 winning picks, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmhouseculture.com\">Farmhouse Culture\u003c/a>'s \u003cstrong>Smoked Jalapeno Sauerkraut,\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://emmyspicklesandjams.com/\">Emmy's Pickles and Jams\u003c/a>' \u003cstrong>Turmeric Cauliflower,\u003c/strong> and the \u003cstrong>Devil Sauce\u003c/strong> made by \u003ca href=\"http://www.letsbefrankdogs.com\">Let's Be Frank\u003c/a>, of grass-fed hot-dog truck fame. (And we'll give a California hug to OlyKraut, which was founded by Sash Sunday, a former San Franciscan who got into the kraut biz shortly after relocating to Olympia, WA. Plus, she makes nettle kraut!) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/olykraut560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/olykraut560.jpg\" alt=\"OlyKraut, from left: Sash Sunday, Alexia Crousnillon, Nate Masse not pictured: Summer Bock\" title=\"OlyKraut, From left: Sash Sunday, Alexia Crousnillon, Nate Masse not pictured: Summer Bock\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37689\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>OlyKraut, from left: Sash Sunday, Alexia Crousnillon, Nate Massé (not pictured: Summer Bock)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We tied with New York in the cutthroat preserves category, winning for \u003ca href=\"http://www.artisanpreserves.com/\">Artisan Preserves'\u003c/a> \u003cstrong>Orange Honey Marmalade,\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://shop.chezpim.com/\">Chez Pim\u003c/a>'s \u003cstrong>Blueberry-Golden Raspberry Preserves,\u003c/strong> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.wineforest.com\">Wine Forest Wild Foods'\u003c/a> \u003cstrong>Wild Elderberry Shrub.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/WYLIEWHISKEY560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/WYLIEWHISKEY560.jpg\" alt=\"Wylie Whiskey\" title=\"Wylie Whiskey\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37684\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wylie Whiskey, from left: Matt Jones, Garrett Hale, Sarah Swearington.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a cascade of riches from our part of the Golden State: Costa Rican chocolate bars from \u003ca href=\"http://www.dandelionchocolate.com/\">Dandelion Chocolate\u003c/a> in SF; white whiskey from \u003ca href=\"http://www.wyliehowell.com\">Wylie Howell Spirits\u003c/a> in Petaluma; \u003cstrong>Carmody\u003c/strong> (my favorite!) and \u003cstrong>whole-milk ricotta\u003c/strong> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.bellwethercheese.com\">Bellwether Farms\u003c/a> in West Marin; \u003cstrong>yogurt cheese\u003c/strong> from Sonoma's \u003ca href=\"http://www.stbenoit.com\">St. Benoit\u003c/a>, \u003cstrong>pork, rabbit, and duck terrine\u003c/strong> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com\">Fatted Calf\u003c/a> in SF and Napa; \u003cstrong>speck\u003c/strong> from Oakland wine bar/salumeria \u003ca href=\"http://www.dopoadesso.com/adesso/\">Adesso\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/dandelionchoc560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/dandelionchoc560.jpg\" alt=\"From left: Alice Nystrom, Todd Masonis of Dandelion Chocolate\" title=\"From left: Alice Nystrom, Todd Masonis of Dandelion Chocolate\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37687\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dandelion Chocolate: Alice Nystrom, Todd Masonis\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Come the next morning, many of the previous night's winners were out in force at the Good Food Awards Marketplace, a tasting/selling spread of tables organized by category set up under the archways of the Ferry Building. Reichl, who now runs the specialty food (and content) site \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilttaste.com/\">Gilt Taste\u003c/a>, was on hand with a keen appetite, even after a late-night dinner with Alice and friends at Locanda in the Mission. Already, she's tried the chilaquiles and shrimp ceviche at the Primavera market stand, and tells me, joyfully, of the \"best breakfast sandwich\" she's ever had, from \u003ca href=\"http://www.4505meats.com\">4505 Meats\u003c/a>: a soft, buttery brioche bun piled with a maple-bacon sausage patty, an oozy-centered fried egg, and a frizz of snappy peppercress. Speaking of her talk the previous night, she laughed at the thought of trying to profile just eight makers now. \"At the time, it was hard to find even eight people, enough to write about. I had to include a produce distributor, a guy who was raising pigs and lambs for Chez Panisse. Now, that would be ridiculous. You'd have to write an encyclopedia!\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If anything, she thinks we're underestimating the strength and staying power of the artisan movement. Already, the food makers' landscape has changed drastically in just the past five years. In the next five, ten years, what will it look like? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/KathrynLukasFarmhouseCulture560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/KathrynLukasFarmhouseCulture560.jpg\" alt=\"Kathryn Lukas of Farmhouse Culture\" title=\"Kathryn Lukas of Farmhouse Culture\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37688\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Kathryn Lukas of Farmhouse Culture\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's no doubt, though, that the movement is fostering ever-closer relationships between chefs, makers and farmers. These products, from basil vodka to sea-vegetable kraut, are only as good as their raw ingredients. Recounting a cabbage blight that decimated the California crop last year, Farmhouse Culture founder Kathryn Lukas quoted Let's Be Frank's Larry Bain, laughing, \"It's hard when you're in business with God.\"\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Good Food Awards: An Insider Takes BAB Behind-the-Scenes",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/james-collier-preserves560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/james-collier-preserves560.jpg\" alt=\"Preserves and Pickles -- Good Food Awards Photo: James Collier\" title=\"Preserves and Pickles -- Good Food Awards Photo: James Collier\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37595\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Preserves and Pickles -- Good Food Awards.\u003c/strong> Photo: James Collier\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's the second year for the \u003ca href=\"http://seedlingprojects.org/\">Seedling Projects\u003c/a>' \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a> -- winners announced tonight at a gala at San Francisco's Ferry Building -- and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/karensolomon/\">BAB contributor\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://ksolomon.com/\">Karen Solomon\u003c/a> gives us an inside peek into the national food contest, which features sustainable foods made with real, authentic ingredients by local producers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_37597\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/karensolomon/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/StacyVentura_KarenSolomonPortrait.jpg\" alt=\"Karen Solomon. Photo: Stacy Ventura\" title=\"Karen Solomon. Photo: Stacy Ventura\" width=\"200\" height=\"301\" class=\"size-full wp-image-37597\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Karen Solomon. Photo: Stacy Ventura\u003c/em>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The concept behind the food competition is to highlight best in show in various edible categories from five regions of the country, this year prizes will go to makers of beer, charcuterie, cheese, chocolate, coffee, pickles, preserves, and -- a new area -- spirits. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As was the case last year, many Bay Area food makers are in the finalists' circle, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.lagunitas.com/\">Lagunitas Brewing Company\u003c/a> (a lil' sumpin' sumpin'), \u003ca href=\"http://www.caferouge.net/\">Cafe Rouge\u003c/a> (duck pate), \u003ca href=\"http://www.bellwetherfarms.com/\">Bellwether Farms\u003c/a> (carmody and whole milk ricotta), \u003ca href=\"http://sightglasscoffee.com/\">Sightglass Coffee\u003c/a> (Ethiopian shakiso), \u003ca href=\"http://emmyspicklesandjams.com/\">Emmy's Pickles & Jams\u003c/a> (turmeric cauliflower), and \u003ca href=\"http://chezpim.com/\">Chez Pim\u003c/a> (blueberry and golden raspberry jam).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dozens of judges served as blind tasters; there were 926 entries from 46 states. Last year \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/winners/\">71 producers\u003c/a> won the honor of adding a Good Food Awards label to their products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We spoke with Solomon, the author of \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/158008575X/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=lifefounlimi-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399369&creativeASIN=158008575X\">Can It, Bottle It, Smoke It\u003c/a>\u003c/em> and \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1580089585/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=lifefounlimi-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399369&creativeASIN=1580089585\">Jam It, Pickle It, Cure It\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, about the awards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's your role with the Good Food Awards and why are you involved?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year I was a committee member in the pickles category. We helped figure out the criteria for judging. Last year, the first of the awards, I was involved from the beginning with both the pickles and preserves committees. Additionally, I was a judge in the pickles category and a co-presenter for the awards in that area. For me, anything that spotlights the achievements of conscientious food artisans is a worthy cause. I like to see the little guy win big.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What kind of criteria are judges looking (and tasting) for in this contest?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we judge pickles, we look for balanced, quality products that reflect their excellent ingredients. We want full flavor, but not too biting. We want a welcoming appearance. And for me personally, I want the integrity of the vegetables to be in tact. I hate mushy pickles!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>There are a lot of Bay Area finalists again -- is that a reflection of this region as a mecca for food producers or the simple fact that the awards are based here?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think it's a little of both. Since the event happens here, so locally we'll have the most fuel for the fire. And while the awards are spread over numerous divisions across the country, it's undeniable that a lot of great artisan food comes from here. The Bay Area has the right combination of interest, size, a year-round growing season, and affluence to support those undertaking artisan food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How does a Good Food Awards winner label help food artisans?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think it draws attention to a product on the shelf. It reflects the quality under the cap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Slightly off topic question: Have you seen the Portlandia segment \u003ca href=\"http://www.wecanpicklethat.com/\">\"We Can Pickle That!\"\u003c/a> and what do you make of it? Is it a cruel poke at a recently rediscovered Domestic Art, a bit of food-related fun, a sign that pickling is on its way to becoming a mainstream practice again, all of the above, or something else entirely?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have mixed feelings about it. Of course it's funny and I'm a total sucker for such great humor. The clip and the website have been all over social media within canning circles, and most of us are laughing. Still, it stings a bit -- no hipster, no matter how aging one may be, wants to think he or she is a tired joke.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYey8ntlK_E]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Details:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GOOD FOOD AWARDS RECEPTION\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Good Food Awards ceremony is tonight, Friday, January 13, at San Francisco’s Ferry Building. A limited number of tickets are available for Gilt City members. The catered reception will be hosted by Ruth Reichl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Time: 8:00pm-10:00pm\u003cbr>\nLocation: San Francisco Ferry Building\u003cbr>\nPrice: $100\u003cbr>\nTickets: \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/the-awards/ticketing/\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.giltcity.com/san-francisco/goodfoodawards\">Gilt City\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GOOD FOOD AWARDS MARKETPLACE\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Saturday, January 14, there's an opportunity to taste the award-winning products by sustainable food producers from around the country, including Colorado cheesemakers, Utah chocolatiers, and Ohio picklers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Time: 8:00am-2:00pm (8:00am-9:00am Exclusive Tasting)\u003cbr>\nLocation: San Francisco Ferry Building\u003cbr>\nTickets: Exclusive Tasting: $12 through \u003ca href=\"http://www.giltcity.com/san-francisco/goodfoodawards\">Gilt City\u003c/a>, General Admission: $5 at the door, Beer and Spirits Garden: $12 for 5 tastings, or \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/the-awards/ticketing/\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/james-collier-preserves560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/james-collier-preserves560.jpg\" alt=\"Preserves and Pickles -- Good Food Awards Photo: James Collier\" title=\"Preserves and Pickles -- Good Food Awards Photo: James Collier\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37595\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Preserves and Pickles -- Good Food Awards.\u003c/strong> Photo: James Collier\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's the second year for the \u003ca href=\"http://seedlingprojects.org/\">Seedling Projects\u003c/a>' \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a> -- winners announced tonight at a gala at San Francisco's Ferry Building -- and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/karensolomon/\">BAB contributor\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://ksolomon.com/\">Karen Solomon\u003c/a> gives us an inside peek into the national food contest, which features sustainable foods made with real, authentic ingredients by local producers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_37597\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/karensolomon/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/StacyVentura_KarenSolomonPortrait.jpg\" alt=\"Karen Solomon. Photo: Stacy Ventura\" title=\"Karen Solomon. Photo: Stacy Ventura\" width=\"200\" height=\"301\" class=\"size-full wp-image-37597\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Karen Solomon. Photo: Stacy Ventura\u003c/em>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The concept behind the food competition is to highlight best in show in various edible categories from five regions of the country, this year prizes will go to makers of beer, charcuterie, cheese, chocolate, coffee, pickles, preserves, and -- a new area -- spirits. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As was the case last year, many Bay Area food makers are in the finalists' circle, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.lagunitas.com/\">Lagunitas Brewing Company\u003c/a> (a lil' sumpin' sumpin'), \u003ca href=\"http://www.caferouge.net/\">Cafe Rouge\u003c/a> (duck pate), \u003ca href=\"http://www.bellwetherfarms.com/\">Bellwether Farms\u003c/a> (carmody and whole milk ricotta), \u003ca href=\"http://sightglasscoffee.com/\">Sightglass Coffee\u003c/a> (Ethiopian shakiso), \u003ca href=\"http://emmyspicklesandjams.com/\">Emmy's Pickles & Jams\u003c/a> (turmeric cauliflower), and \u003ca href=\"http://chezpim.com/\">Chez Pim\u003c/a> (blueberry and golden raspberry jam).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dozens of judges served as blind tasters; there were 926 entries from 46 states. Last year \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/winners/\">71 producers\u003c/a> won the honor of adding a Good Food Awards label to their products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We spoke with Solomon, the author of \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/158008575X/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=lifefounlimi-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399369&creativeASIN=158008575X\">Can It, Bottle It, Smoke It\u003c/a>\u003c/em> and \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1580089585/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=lifefounlimi-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399369&creativeASIN=1580089585\">Jam It, Pickle It, Cure It\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, about the awards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's your role with the Good Food Awards and why are you involved?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year I was a committee member in the pickles category. We helped figure out the criteria for judging. Last year, the first of the awards, I was involved from the beginning with both the pickles and preserves committees. Additionally, I was a judge in the pickles category and a co-presenter for the awards in that area. For me, anything that spotlights the achievements of conscientious food artisans is a worthy cause. I like to see the little guy win big.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What kind of criteria are judges looking (and tasting) for in this contest?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we judge pickles, we look for balanced, quality products that reflect their excellent ingredients. We want full flavor, but not too biting. We want a welcoming appearance. And for me personally, I want the integrity of the vegetables to be in tact. I hate mushy pickles!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>There are a lot of Bay Area finalists again -- is that a reflection of this region as a mecca for food producers or the simple fact that the awards are based here?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think it's a little of both. Since the event happens here, so locally we'll have the most fuel for the fire. And while the awards are spread over numerous divisions across the country, it's undeniable that a lot of great artisan food comes from here. The Bay Area has the right combination of interest, size, a year-round growing season, and affluence to support those undertaking artisan food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How does a Good Food Awards winner label help food artisans?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think it draws attention to a product on the shelf. It reflects the quality under the cap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Slightly off topic question: Have you seen the Portlandia segment \u003ca href=\"http://www.wecanpicklethat.com/\">\"We Can Pickle That!\"\u003c/a> and what do you make of it? Is it a cruel poke at a recently rediscovered Domestic Art, a bit of food-related fun, a sign that pickling is on its way to becoming a mainstream practice again, all of the above, or something else entirely?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have mixed feelings about it. Of course it's funny and I'm a total sucker for such great humor. The clip and the website have been all over social media within canning circles, and most of us are laughing. Still, it stings a bit -- no hipster, no matter how aging one may be, wants to think he or she is a tired joke.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/yYey8ntlK_E'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/yYey8ntlK_E'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Details:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GOOD FOOD AWARDS RECEPTION\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Good Food Awards ceremony is tonight, Friday, January 13, at San Francisco’s Ferry Building. A limited number of tickets are available for Gilt City members. The catered reception will be hosted by Ruth Reichl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Time: 8:00pm-10:00pm\u003cbr>\nLocation: San Francisco Ferry Building\u003cbr>\nPrice: $100\u003cbr>\nTickets: \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/the-awards/ticketing/\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.giltcity.com/san-francisco/goodfoodawards\">Gilt City\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GOOD FOOD AWARDS MARKETPLACE\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Saturday, January 14, there's an opportunity to taste the award-winning products by sustainable food producers from around the country, including Colorado cheesemakers, Utah chocolatiers, and Ohio picklers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Time: 8:00am-2:00pm (8:00am-9:00am Exclusive Tasting)\u003cbr>\nLocation: San Francisco Ferry Building\u003cbr>\nTickets: Exclusive Tasting: $12 through \u003ca href=\"http://www.giltcity.com/san-francisco/goodfoodawards\">Gilt City\u003c/a>, General Admission: $5 at the door, Beer and Spirits Garden: $12 for 5 tastings, or \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/the-awards/ticketing/\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"politicalbreakdown": {
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"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
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"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"pri-the-world": {
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"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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},
"reveal": {
"id": "reveal",
"title": "Reveal",
"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.revealnews.org/episodes/",
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},
"rightnowish": {
"id": "rightnowish",
"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"order": 16
},
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