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"disqusTitle": "KQED's Forum: Inside the 'Longevity Kitchen'",
"title": "KQED's Forum: Inside the 'Longevity Kitchen'",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/longevity-kitchen600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/longevity-kitchen600.jpg\" alt=\"The Longevity Kitchen by Rebecca Katz and Mat Edelson\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-58215\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Triage theory, phytonutrients, circadian clocks... such is the stuff of cooking for longevity -- at least according to a recent episode of \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201303071000\" target=\"_blank\">KQED's Forum with Michael Krasny\u003c/a>. The show featured \u003ca href=\"http://rebeccakatz.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Rebecca Katz\u003c/a>, author of the new cookbook, \"\u003ca href=\"http://rebeccakatz.com/books/the-longevity-kitchen/\" target=\"_blank\">The Longevity Kitchen\u003c/a>\" and doctors from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.buckinstitute.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Buck Institute for Research on Aging\u003c/a>, a Marin-based research organization.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each guest made their own case for the connection between food and a longer, healthier life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.buckinstitute.org/kapahiLab\" target=\"_blank\">Pankaj Kapahi\u003c/a>, associate professor at the Buck Institute said that recent research about the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mammalian_target_of_rapamycin\" target=\"_blank\">Target of Rapamycin or TOR pathway\u003c/a> speaks to the power of food:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The TOR pathway and the insulin signaling pathway, are the two major pathways which are the nutrient signaling pathways...the idea is that these two pathways that interact and are critical for the growth of an organism are also turning out to be critically important in slowing age-related diseases, and also lifespan.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Kapahi's colleague and founder of the Buck Institute for Research on Aging, Dale Bredesen, used \"the triage theory\" to explain the role of food choices in longevity:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The idea of triage theory is simple: that if your body is limited in any specific nutrients, vitamins and minerals, and about 80 percent of us in the U.S. are low in something, be it magnesium, calcium, vitamin C, you can go on and on -- then in fact your body triages that and uses it for short term survival and procreation at the expense of longevity.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Katz's explanation points to the study of \"epigenetics,\" what she defines as the study of \"the factors affecting genetic expression.\" From her book:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"We've learned that almost every process in the human body, including the creation of most disease states, involves the interplay of anywhere from three to more than a dozen genes. Eventually, we'll tease out the interplay within these complex relationships and learn how to work the produce aisle to restore order on a systems level. But for now, we're making some good inroads. As researchers have learned more and more of the genetic, metabolic, and cellular causes of disease, they've also figured out which nutrients can turn those processes around.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>As interesting as the science is, Katz emphasized on air and in her book that what is most useful to people is knowing what to eat. Her book is organized by foods rather than by nutrients because, as she said, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I'm not going to send people to the market looking for glutathione. But I will send them to the market looking for asparagus.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Katz has compiled a \"culinary pharmacy,\" listing the health benefits of foods from allspice (antimicrobial, digestive support) to yogurt (digestive support, immune health). Her book also contains the \"\u003ca href=\"http://rebeccakatz.com/culinary-rx/\">Super 16\u003c/a>\" a list of foods that not only have high levels of antioxidants, but are also \"premier sources of healthy omega-3 fats, probiotics, and other body boosting phytochemicals, vitamins and minerals.\" In other words, they offer good nutritional bang for the bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58213\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/asparagus600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/asparagus600.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted Asparagus Salad with Arugula and Hazelnuts. Courtesy of The Longevity Kitchen\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58213\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted Asparagus Salad with Arugula and Hazelnuts. Courtesy of The Longevity Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>At the top of the Super 16 list is \u003cstrong>asparagus\u003c/strong>. Katz said \"it has a lot of fiber, which is wonderful for us, and it has what's called the super antioxidant, glutathione, which we lose as we age.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Avocados\u003c/strong> also made the cut, which Katz recommends whipping \"into an incredible guacamole with mint and \u003cstrong>pomegranate seeds\u003c/strong>.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Basil and mint\u003c/strong> are in the Super 16 and \"are things that we can so easily incorporate into our diet,\" said Katz. \"They're anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and they have so many phytonutrients.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>And for those of you who are fans of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201302270900\" target=\"_blank\">Mediterranean Diet\u003c/a>, let's not forget \u003cstrong>coffee, dark chocolate and olive oil\u003c/strong>.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The discussion on eating for longevity didn't stop at ingredients. Bredesen says that it's critical not to eat three hours before going to sleep.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58214\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/brownies600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/brownies600.jpg\" alt=\"Insanely Good Chocolate Brownies. Courtesy of The Longevity Kitchen\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58214\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Insanely Good Chocolate Brownies. Courtesy of The Longevity Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Kapahi cited a study were two groups of mice we're given the same amount of food but at different times -- one group was fed at night and the other during the day. The group fed at night became obese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"One of the things that is becoming clearer is the importance of circadian clocks and circadian rhythms in our eating habits,\" said Kapahi. \"Food itself is a signal for our clocks. So if you eat at nighttime you're telling the liver to actually wake up and that sets everything out of sync. And that we found is really detrimental for health span and increases incidents of cancer and diabetes.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"In India and in a number of other countries, food is medicine,\" said Bredesen. \"I think this is something that's come to our country surprisingly late. In the U.S., food has become fun. Food has become immediacy -- if you get that drive-thru you can get more done, but in fact we're learning that India has been right all along that food is medicine.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to KQED's Forum: How to Eat for a Longer Life\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201303071000\">Original Broadcast\u003c/a>:\u003cbr>\nThursday, Mar 7, 2013 -- 10:00 AM\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/forum/2013/03/20130307bforum.mp3\"]\u003cbr>\nGet recipes, including \u003cem>Insanely Good Chocolate Brownies\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Roasted Asparagus Salad with Arugula and Hazelnuts\u003c/em> are \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201303071000\" target=\"_blank\">posted on the Forum episode page\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>Get recipes for Layered Frittata with Leeks, Swiss Chard, and Tomatoes and Herby Turkey Sliders:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe class=\"scribd_iframe_embed\" src=\"http://www.scribd.com/embeds/122182044/content?start_page=1&view_mode=scroll&access_key=key-jjk45ir59e7n4o5p7j9\" data-auto-height=\"false\" data-aspect-ratio=\"0.772922022279349\" scrolling=\"no\" id=\"doc_55628\" width=\"100%\" height=\"600\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/longevity-kitchen600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/longevity-kitchen600.jpg\" alt=\"The Longevity Kitchen by Rebecca Katz and Mat Edelson\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-58215\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Triage theory, phytonutrients, circadian clocks... such is the stuff of cooking for longevity -- at least according to a recent episode of \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201303071000\" target=\"_blank\">KQED's Forum with Michael Krasny\u003c/a>. The show featured \u003ca href=\"http://rebeccakatz.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Rebecca Katz\u003c/a>, author of the new cookbook, \"\u003ca href=\"http://rebeccakatz.com/books/the-longevity-kitchen/\" target=\"_blank\">The Longevity Kitchen\u003c/a>\" and doctors from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.buckinstitute.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Buck Institute for Research on Aging\u003c/a>, a Marin-based research organization.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each guest made their own case for the connection between food and a longer, healthier life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.buckinstitute.org/kapahiLab\" target=\"_blank\">Pankaj Kapahi\u003c/a>, associate professor at the Buck Institute said that recent research about the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mammalian_target_of_rapamycin\" target=\"_blank\">Target of Rapamycin or TOR pathway\u003c/a> speaks to the power of food:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The TOR pathway and the insulin signaling pathway, are the two major pathways which are the nutrient signaling pathways...the idea is that these two pathways that interact and are critical for the growth of an organism are also turning out to be critically important in slowing age-related diseases, and also lifespan.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Kapahi's colleague and founder of the Buck Institute for Research on Aging, Dale Bredesen, used \"the triage theory\" to explain the role of food choices in longevity:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The idea of triage theory is simple: that if your body is limited in any specific nutrients, vitamins and minerals, and about 80 percent of us in the U.S. are low in something, be it magnesium, calcium, vitamin C, you can go on and on -- then in fact your body triages that and uses it for short term survival and procreation at the expense of longevity.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Katz's explanation points to the study of \"epigenetics,\" what she defines as the study of \"the factors affecting genetic expression.\" From her book:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"We've learned that almost every process in the human body, including the creation of most disease states, involves the interplay of anywhere from three to more than a dozen genes. Eventually, we'll tease out the interplay within these complex relationships and learn how to work the produce aisle to restore order on a systems level. But for now, we're making some good inroads. As researchers have learned more and more of the genetic, metabolic, and cellular causes of disease, they've also figured out which nutrients can turn those processes around.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>As interesting as the science is, Katz emphasized on air and in her book that what is most useful to people is knowing what to eat. Her book is organized by foods rather than by nutrients because, as she said, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I'm not going to send people to the market looking for glutathione. But I will send them to the market looking for asparagus.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Katz has compiled a \"culinary pharmacy,\" listing the health benefits of foods from allspice (antimicrobial, digestive support) to yogurt (digestive support, immune health). Her book also contains the \"\u003ca href=\"http://rebeccakatz.com/culinary-rx/\">Super 16\u003c/a>\" a list of foods that not only have high levels of antioxidants, but are also \"premier sources of healthy omega-3 fats, probiotics, and other body boosting phytochemicals, vitamins and minerals.\" In other words, they offer good nutritional bang for the bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58213\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/asparagus600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/asparagus600.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted Asparagus Salad with Arugula and Hazelnuts. Courtesy of The Longevity Kitchen\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58213\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted Asparagus Salad with Arugula and Hazelnuts. Courtesy of The Longevity Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>At the top of the Super 16 list is \u003cstrong>asparagus\u003c/strong>. Katz said \"it has a lot of fiber, which is wonderful for us, and it has what's called the super antioxidant, glutathione, which we lose as we age.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Avocados\u003c/strong> also made the cut, which Katz recommends whipping \"into an incredible guacamole with mint and \u003cstrong>pomegranate seeds\u003c/strong>.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Basil and mint\u003c/strong> are in the Super 16 and \"are things that we can so easily incorporate into our diet,\" said Katz. \"They're anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and they have so many phytonutrients.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>And for those of you who are fans of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201302270900\" target=\"_blank\">Mediterranean Diet\u003c/a>, let's not forget \u003cstrong>coffee, dark chocolate and olive oil\u003c/strong>.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The discussion on eating for longevity didn't stop at ingredients. Bredesen says that it's critical not to eat three hours before going to sleep.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58214\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/brownies600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/brownies600.jpg\" alt=\"Insanely Good Chocolate Brownies. Courtesy of The Longevity Kitchen\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58214\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Insanely Good Chocolate Brownies. Courtesy of The Longevity Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Kapahi cited a study were two groups of mice we're given the same amount of food but at different times -- one group was fed at night and the other during the day. The group fed at night became obese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"One of the things that is becoming clearer is the importance of circadian clocks and circadian rhythms in our eating habits,\" said Kapahi. \"Food itself is a signal for our clocks. So if you eat at nighttime you're telling the liver to actually wake up and that sets everything out of sync. And that we found is really detrimental for health span and increases incidents of cancer and diabetes.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"In India and in a number of other countries, food is medicine,\" said Bredesen. \"I think this is something that's come to our country surprisingly late. In the U.S., food has become fun. Food has become immediacy -- if you get that drive-thru you can get more done, but in fact we're learning that India has been right all along that food is medicine.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to KQED's Forum: How to Eat for a Longer Life\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201303071000\">Original Broadcast\u003c/a>:\u003cbr>\nThursday, Mar 7, 2013 -- 10:00 AM\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nGet recipes, including \u003cem>Insanely Good Chocolate Brownies\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Roasted Asparagus Salad with Arugula and Hazelnuts\u003c/em> are \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201303071000\" target=\"_blank\">posted on the Forum episode page\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>Get recipes for Layered Frittata with Leeks, Swiss Chard, and Tomatoes and Herby Turkey Sliders:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe class=\"scribd_iframe_embed\" src=\"http://www.scribd.com/embeds/122182044/content?start_page=1&view_mode=scroll&access_key=key-jjk45ir59e7n4o5p7j9\" data-auto-height=\"false\" data-aspect-ratio=\"0.772922022279349\" scrolling=\"no\" id=\"doc_55628\" width=\"100%\" height=\"600\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House that Herring Built",
"title": "Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House that Herring Built",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-cover600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-cover600.jpg\" alt=\"Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes From The House That Herring Built by Mark Russ Federman\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-58235\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Overwhelming\" and \"unexpected\" is how smoked-fishmonger turned writer Mark Russ Federman describes the reaction to his recently published memoir, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0805242945/kqedorg-20\">Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House That Herring Built\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57757\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"Russ & Daughters pink-and-green neon sign. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-57757\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Russ & Daughters pink-and-green neon sign. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com/\">Russ & Daughters\u003c/a>, for those of you who weren't lucky enough to grow up within Sunday-morning driving distance of its pink-and-green neon sign on the Lower East Side, is an \"appetizing\" store, a family business nearly 100 years old, still thriving under the ownership of the great-granddaughter and great-grandnephew of the original founder, Joel Russ. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wait, what's an \"appetizing\" store, you ask? Let's start with the smell. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Push open the door at Russ & Daughters and the first thing to hit you is the store's unique aroma. It's a combination of smokiness from whitefish, salmon, sturgeon,and sable; the brininess of herrings and pickles; the yeastiness of freshly baked bagels and bialys, and the sweetness of rugelach, babka, chocolates, and halvah. How I wish I could bottle that singular scent--smoky, briny, yeasty and sweet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Russ Federman's description above shows, the \"appetizing\" store is a particularly Jewish-American category of business, specializing in smoked fish and dairy products. It arose out of kosher dietary laws, which forbid the mixing of milk and meat at the same meal or, indeed, in the same shop. So, when it came to prepared foods, the delicatessen, or deli, sold pastrami, corned beef, tongue, salami, chopped liver, chicken soup, and more, while the \"appetizing\" store stocked smoked and cured fish in all its forms, from pickled \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/default/article/Herring-on-menus-of-Bay-Area-restaurants-4283165.php\"> herring\u003c/a> to smoked salmon, along with the dairy to serve with it: cheese and cream cheese, plus pickles, sauerkraut, and often bagels, bialys, candies, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/26/grandmas-rugelach\">rugelach\u003c/a>, chocolates, and dried fruit, too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58237\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Tabletop600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Tabletop600.jpg\" alt=\"A Typical Appetizing Spread, Ready for a Family Celebration. Photo by Matthew Hranek\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58237\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Typical Appetizing Spread, Ready for a Family Celebration.\u003cbr>Photo by Matthew Hranek\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Appetizing stores--and Jewish bakeries, delis, restaurants, shops, and Yiddish theaters--flourished in New York City’s Lower East Side, where Jews from Russia, Poland, Hungary, and the rest of Central and Eastern Europe came fleeing persecution, seeking religious freedom or just looking, like so many other immigrants then and now, for economic opportunity and a better life for themselves and their children. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story that Russ Federman tells, of how his grandfather Joel Russ made it to the Lower East Side from a tiny village in Poland, and, with business savvy and a whole lot of grinding, day in-day out hard work, managed to go from selling herring from a barrel on the street to launching a store that remains a beloved New York landmark some 100 years later, is a classic American immigrant’s tale. But it also brings to life the lost Jewish world of the Lower East Side. My great-grandfather, also born in Poland, was a baker in the neighborhood; my grandmother, who came here as a child in the early 1900s, had stories of delivering hot rolls in a horse-drawn cart through the pushcarts crowding the tenement-lined streets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That Joel Russ's three daughters Anne, Hattie, and Ida would work in the family business went without saying. As Russ Federman tells it, the family motto became \u003cem>\"Vi nempt men parnosa?\"\u003c/em> a Yiddish phrase he translates as \"From where do we take our living?\" The family's living came from the shop, and so the family, all of it, worked hard to make the shop successful. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Joel Russ also recognized that his three smiling, pretty daughters were a draw that lured customers as much as a good price on schmaltz herring, and he turned the name of the business into Russ & Daughters. Son-in-laws were set up behind the counter, too, but the third generation, including Mark, weren't supposed to be shopkeepers. For them, the goal was college and a profession--a doctor, a lawyer, not a herring-seller.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58234\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Federman600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Federman600.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Russ Federman. Photo: Belathée Photography\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58234\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mark Russ Federman. Photo: Belathée Photography\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As expected, Russ Federman went to law school, passed the bar, and started practicing--only to discover that he wasn't happy practicing with a big uptown law firm. After years of being pressed into work at the shop during every school vacation and holiday, he came back to the shop in 1978 to learn the business and take some of the pressure off his aging parents. As he writes, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"My plan was to help them run the store part-time and practice law part-time. What was I smoking? The first day I took up my place behind the counter was the last day I practiced law. Even though I had worked there as a kid, I had no idea what it meant to be responsible for every piece of fish, every customer, and every employee every minute of the day.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>It wasn't easy, stepping into the shoes of \"Mr. Russ,\" the public face and buck-stops-here owner. The men at the smokehouses where he bought their fish were tough, making him earn their respect, even slipping bad fish into his orders to see if he could pick them out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even when he had retired from active duty, after 35 years on the floor, customers who saw him in the shop thought nothing of ordering him to get behind the counter and fill their requests for lox and herring. As he writes in the beginning of the book, when one bossy elderly woman, ignoring the lines of waiting customers around her, insists that he should \"make her a herring\"--that is, skin, bone, and fillet a smoked herring for her while she waits, even though the case is filled with ready-to-go fillets, he loses patience and pulls rank. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>I went for the ultimate weapon in my arsenal. \"Lady, do you know who I am? I am Mr. Russ.\" I expected my pronouncement to end any further challenges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took less than a second for her response. \"I know you. You're not Mistar Russ. Your grandfadder vas Mistar Russ.\" \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>After passing on the business to his daughter Niki and nephew Josh in 2009, he found himself suddenly, if gratefully, no longer Mr. Russ. \"I wrote a book, basically, to give me something to do, keep me from just \u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com/yiddishisms.php\">potchking\u003c/a> [puttering] around. All those years, my persona was Mr. Russ, the guy behind the counter. You can get the bends, you stop too soon,\" he said in a recent phone interview. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He already had a built-in platform--the shop--for selling the book. He got an agent, then a publisher, and then, he just had to write it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[Calvin] Bud Trillin said, 'Listen, Mark, you stay out of my business, I'll stay out of yours.' So then it was a challenge,\" he laughed. \"Who knew that writing could be harder than retail?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, Trillin, a popular writer and longtime fan of the shop, went on to write a heartfelt introduction to the book, updating a piece he'd written about the shop back in 1974. In the early 70s, Trillin, like my own father, was taking his daughters to the shop for their first tastes of halvah, herring, kippered salmon, and pickled lox. Now, he takes his grandchildren. As Trillin writes,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"But Russ and Daughters still looks about the same as it did when I described it, around forty years ago, as refutation of the false teaching that a store that sells pickled herring cannot have character and a clean display case at the same time...I know, because I can often be found there on a Sunday morning.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But Russ Federman didn't just want to share whitefish-salad recipes and funny anecdotes of famous customers like Zero Mostel and Tony Bourdain. He wanted to capture his family's own stories, research their history, and \"make the Russ family proud of what we've been doing for the past 100 years,\" especially his 92 year old mother Anne and 100 year old aunt Hattie, the two remaining original Russ daughters. \"Because, for them, it was hard work and awful conditions.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Random House sent the first two copies of the book by FedEx to his mother and aunt in Florida, where they now live. Russ Federman opened the box with them and watched as they turned the pages peppered with old family photos. \"Of course, their first reaction was 'Why did you have to say that'? But then, they were totally thrilled. They were stopping, telling their own stories,\" as they went through the book. \"It took 3 years, but I accomplished my mission.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book also details how the store went from neighbor herring purveyor to city institution, playing an essential part in the lives of its customers even as Jews left the Lower East Side, and the neighborhood sank into drug-fueled crime and squalor in the 70s and 80s, followed by artists and then ever-increasing gentrification over the past 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even as, one by one, the old Jewish bakeries and delis closed, Russ & Daughters kept going, even after the downtown devastation of 9/11. You wanted to celebrate a bris, you ordered a smoked-fish platter. Sitting shiva after a death in the family, you ordered babka and rugalach, cookies and dried fruit for noshing. From the Yom Kippur break-fast to New Year's Day or just another Sunday morning, any day was a occasion made better with lox, sturgeon, smoked chub, herring salad, even caviar. The trick, of course, wasn't just the sterling quality of the fish; it was that the Russes had the \"schmooze gene,\" able to remember complete customer histories, not just of their tastes in sturgeon and lox but their medical histories, their foibles, and their family trees, and able to banter back and forth across the counter so that shopping there wasn't just shopping, it was an only-in-New-York experience, even for customers who'd long since relocated to Great Neck or New Rochelle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that everyone's got a crock of kraut going in the kitchen, does Russ Federman have advice for the next generation of would-be professional salmon-smokers and pickle makers dreaming of a storefront in Oakland or Bushwick? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forget cutesy names and logos, he tells me. \"Put your own name on the door. Because if your name is on it, every product, every bag, every thing that goes through that door has your ego, your personality, your life on it. Do that for 100 years. Then you'll be a success.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58233\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Beet-Salad600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Beet-Salad600.jpg\" alt=\"Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad. Photo: Matthew Hranek\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58233\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad. Photo: Matthew Hranek\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Swedish mustard, which you can find at IKEA, has a sweet-spiced tang that matches very well with this combination of earthy beets, tart apple, and pickled herring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted from Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House that Herring Built, by Mark Russ Federman. Reprinted by permission.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nPrep Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cooking Time: \u003c/strong>45 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong> Total Time: \u003c/strong>1 hour 45 minutes, plus chilling time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 6 to 8 servings\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beets\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n6 to 8 medium beets, trimmed and scrubbed (about 1 3/4-2 lbs)\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n2 tsp mild Swedish mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mustard Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp mild Swedish mustard\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp honey\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp minced fresh dill\u003cbr>\nKosher salt\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salad\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 medium Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4 inch dice\u003cbr>\n1 small red onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice\u003cbr>\n2 pickled herring fillets, cut into 1/4-inch dice\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup minced sour pickle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. To prepare the beets, place them in a large saucepean and add water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the beets are tender, 30 to 45 minutes. Drain the beets and rinse with cold water until they are cool enough to handle. The skins should slip off easily. Cut the beets into quarters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Whisk the red wine vinegar, oil, sugar, and mustard in a large bowl. Add the beets and toss to coat. Allow the beets to stand in the vinegar mixture for 2 hours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. To prepare the mustard sauce, combine the red wine vinegar, mustard, sugar, and honey in a medium bowl and whisk to blend. Slowly pour in the vegetable oil, whisking constantly. Whisk in the dill and salt and pepper to taste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Drain the beets and cut into 1/4-inch dice. Place them in a large bowl and add the apple, red onion, herring, and minced pickle. Pour half the mustard sauce over the salad and toss to blend. Add more mustard sauce a little at a time until the salad is well coated. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt and pepper as necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Mark Russ Federman will be talking about his book with chef and cookbook author \u003ca href=\"http://www.joycegoldstein.com/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a> on March 10 at 12pm at the San Francisco Jewish Community Center. The event is sold out, but the talk will be streamed live on the \u003ca href=\"https://www.jccsf.org/arts-ideas/lectures/culinary/brunch-w-russ-daughters/\">JCC website\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "What does it take to stay in business for 100 years selling herring? Stephanie Rosenbaum talks to Mark Russ Federman of New York City's legendary Russ & Daughters about his new memoir and the secret to his family's success. \r\n",
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"description": "What does it take to stay in business for 100 years selling herring? Stephanie Rosenbaum talks to Mark Russ Federman of New York City's legendary Russ & Daughters about his new memoir and the secret to his family's success. \r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-cover600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-cover600.jpg\" alt=\"Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes From The House That Herring Built by Mark Russ Federman\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-58235\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Overwhelming\" and \"unexpected\" is how smoked-fishmonger turned writer Mark Russ Federman describes the reaction to his recently published memoir, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0805242945/kqedorg-20\">Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House That Herring Built\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57757\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"Russ & Daughters pink-and-green neon sign. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-57757\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Russ & Daughters pink-and-green neon sign. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com/\">Russ & Daughters\u003c/a>, for those of you who weren't lucky enough to grow up within Sunday-morning driving distance of its pink-and-green neon sign on the Lower East Side, is an \"appetizing\" store, a family business nearly 100 years old, still thriving under the ownership of the great-granddaughter and great-grandnephew of the original founder, Joel Russ. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wait, what's an \"appetizing\" store, you ask? Let's start with the smell. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Push open the door at Russ & Daughters and the first thing to hit you is the store's unique aroma. It's a combination of smokiness from whitefish, salmon, sturgeon,and sable; the brininess of herrings and pickles; the yeastiness of freshly baked bagels and bialys, and the sweetness of rugelach, babka, chocolates, and halvah. How I wish I could bottle that singular scent--smoky, briny, yeasty and sweet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Russ Federman's description above shows, the \"appetizing\" store is a particularly Jewish-American category of business, specializing in smoked fish and dairy products. It arose out of kosher dietary laws, which forbid the mixing of milk and meat at the same meal or, indeed, in the same shop. So, when it came to prepared foods, the delicatessen, or deli, sold pastrami, corned beef, tongue, salami, chopped liver, chicken soup, and more, while the \"appetizing\" store stocked smoked and cured fish in all its forms, from pickled \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/default/article/Herring-on-menus-of-Bay-Area-restaurants-4283165.php\"> herring\u003c/a> to smoked salmon, along with the dairy to serve with it: cheese and cream cheese, plus pickles, sauerkraut, and often bagels, bialys, candies, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/26/grandmas-rugelach\">rugelach\u003c/a>, chocolates, and dried fruit, too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58237\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Tabletop600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Tabletop600.jpg\" alt=\"A Typical Appetizing Spread, Ready for a Family Celebration. Photo by Matthew Hranek\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58237\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Typical Appetizing Spread, Ready for a Family Celebration.\u003cbr>Photo by Matthew Hranek\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Appetizing stores--and Jewish bakeries, delis, restaurants, shops, and Yiddish theaters--flourished in New York City’s Lower East Side, where Jews from Russia, Poland, Hungary, and the rest of Central and Eastern Europe came fleeing persecution, seeking religious freedom or just looking, like so many other immigrants then and now, for economic opportunity and a better life for themselves and their children. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story that Russ Federman tells, of how his grandfather Joel Russ made it to the Lower East Side from a tiny village in Poland, and, with business savvy and a whole lot of grinding, day in-day out hard work, managed to go from selling herring from a barrel on the street to launching a store that remains a beloved New York landmark some 100 years later, is a classic American immigrant’s tale. But it also brings to life the lost Jewish world of the Lower East Side. My great-grandfather, also born in Poland, was a baker in the neighborhood; my grandmother, who came here as a child in the early 1900s, had stories of delivering hot rolls in a horse-drawn cart through the pushcarts crowding the tenement-lined streets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That Joel Russ's three daughters Anne, Hattie, and Ida would work in the family business went without saying. As Russ Federman tells it, the family motto became \u003cem>\"Vi nempt men parnosa?\"\u003c/em> a Yiddish phrase he translates as \"From where do we take our living?\" The family's living came from the shop, and so the family, all of it, worked hard to make the shop successful. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Joel Russ also recognized that his three smiling, pretty daughters were a draw that lured customers as much as a good price on schmaltz herring, and he turned the name of the business into Russ & Daughters. Son-in-laws were set up behind the counter, too, but the third generation, including Mark, weren't supposed to be shopkeepers. For them, the goal was college and a profession--a doctor, a lawyer, not a herring-seller.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58234\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Federman600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Federman600.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Russ Federman. Photo: Belathée Photography\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58234\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mark Russ Federman. Photo: Belathée Photography\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As expected, Russ Federman went to law school, passed the bar, and started practicing--only to discover that he wasn't happy practicing with a big uptown law firm. After years of being pressed into work at the shop during every school vacation and holiday, he came back to the shop in 1978 to learn the business and take some of the pressure off his aging parents. As he writes, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"My plan was to help them run the store part-time and practice law part-time. What was I smoking? The first day I took up my place behind the counter was the last day I practiced law. Even though I had worked there as a kid, I had no idea what it meant to be responsible for every piece of fish, every customer, and every employee every minute of the day.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>It wasn't easy, stepping into the shoes of \"Mr. Russ,\" the public face and buck-stops-here owner. The men at the smokehouses where he bought their fish were tough, making him earn their respect, even slipping bad fish into his orders to see if he could pick them out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even when he had retired from active duty, after 35 years on the floor, customers who saw him in the shop thought nothing of ordering him to get behind the counter and fill their requests for lox and herring. As he writes in the beginning of the book, when one bossy elderly woman, ignoring the lines of waiting customers around her, insists that he should \"make her a herring\"--that is, skin, bone, and fillet a smoked herring for her while she waits, even though the case is filled with ready-to-go fillets, he loses patience and pulls rank. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>I went for the ultimate weapon in my arsenal. \"Lady, do you know who I am? I am Mr. Russ.\" I expected my pronouncement to end any further challenges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took less than a second for her response. \"I know you. You're not Mistar Russ. Your grandfadder vas Mistar Russ.\" \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>After passing on the business to his daughter Niki and nephew Josh in 2009, he found himself suddenly, if gratefully, no longer Mr. Russ. \"I wrote a book, basically, to give me something to do, keep me from just \u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com/yiddishisms.php\">potchking\u003c/a> [puttering] around. All those years, my persona was Mr. Russ, the guy behind the counter. You can get the bends, you stop too soon,\" he said in a recent phone interview. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He already had a built-in platform--the shop--for selling the book. He got an agent, then a publisher, and then, he just had to write it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[Calvin] Bud Trillin said, 'Listen, Mark, you stay out of my business, I'll stay out of yours.' So then it was a challenge,\" he laughed. \"Who knew that writing could be harder than retail?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, Trillin, a popular writer and longtime fan of the shop, went on to write a heartfelt introduction to the book, updating a piece he'd written about the shop back in 1974. In the early 70s, Trillin, like my own father, was taking his daughters to the shop for their first tastes of halvah, herring, kippered salmon, and pickled lox. Now, he takes his grandchildren. As Trillin writes,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"But Russ and Daughters still looks about the same as it did when I described it, around forty years ago, as refutation of the false teaching that a store that sells pickled herring cannot have character and a clean display case at the same time...I know, because I can often be found there on a Sunday morning.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But Russ Federman didn't just want to share whitefish-salad recipes and funny anecdotes of famous customers like Zero Mostel and Tony Bourdain. He wanted to capture his family's own stories, research their history, and \"make the Russ family proud of what we've been doing for the past 100 years,\" especially his 92 year old mother Anne and 100 year old aunt Hattie, the two remaining original Russ daughters. \"Because, for them, it was hard work and awful conditions.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Random House sent the first two copies of the book by FedEx to his mother and aunt in Florida, where they now live. Russ Federman opened the box with them and watched as they turned the pages peppered with old family photos. \"Of course, their first reaction was 'Why did you have to say that'? But then, they were totally thrilled. They were stopping, telling their own stories,\" as they went through the book. \"It took 3 years, but I accomplished my mission.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book also details how the store went from neighbor herring purveyor to city institution, playing an essential part in the lives of its customers even as Jews left the Lower East Side, and the neighborhood sank into drug-fueled crime and squalor in the 70s and 80s, followed by artists and then ever-increasing gentrification over the past 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even as, one by one, the old Jewish bakeries and delis closed, Russ & Daughters kept going, even after the downtown devastation of 9/11. You wanted to celebrate a bris, you ordered a smoked-fish platter. Sitting shiva after a death in the family, you ordered babka and rugalach, cookies and dried fruit for noshing. From the Yom Kippur break-fast to New Year's Day or just another Sunday morning, any day was a occasion made better with lox, sturgeon, smoked chub, herring salad, even caviar. The trick, of course, wasn't just the sterling quality of the fish; it was that the Russes had the \"schmooze gene,\" able to remember complete customer histories, not just of their tastes in sturgeon and lox but their medical histories, their foibles, and their family trees, and able to banter back and forth across the counter so that shopping there wasn't just shopping, it was an only-in-New-York experience, even for customers who'd long since relocated to Great Neck or New Rochelle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that everyone's got a crock of kraut going in the kitchen, does Russ Federman have advice for the next generation of would-be professional salmon-smokers and pickle makers dreaming of a storefront in Oakland or Bushwick? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forget cutesy names and logos, he tells me. \"Put your own name on the door. Because if your name is on it, every product, every bag, every thing that goes through that door has your ego, your personality, your life on it. Do that for 100 years. Then you'll be a success.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58233\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Beet-Salad600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Beet-Salad600.jpg\" alt=\"Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad. Photo: Matthew Hranek\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58233\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad. Photo: Matthew Hranek\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Swedish mustard, which you can find at IKEA, has a sweet-spiced tang that matches very well with this combination of earthy beets, tart apple, and pickled herring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted from Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House that Herring Built, by Mark Russ Federman. Reprinted by permission.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nPrep Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cooking Time: \u003c/strong>45 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong> Total Time: \u003c/strong>1 hour 45 minutes, plus chilling time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 6 to 8 servings\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beets\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n6 to 8 medium beets, trimmed and scrubbed (about 1 3/4-2 lbs)\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n2 tsp mild Swedish mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mustard Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp mild Swedish mustard\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp honey\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp minced fresh dill\u003cbr>\nKosher salt\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salad\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 medium Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4 inch dice\u003cbr>\n1 small red onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice\u003cbr>\n2 pickled herring fillets, cut into 1/4-inch dice\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup minced sour pickle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. To prepare the beets, place them in a large saucepean and add water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the beets are tender, 30 to 45 minutes. Drain the beets and rinse with cold water until they are cool enough to handle. The skins should slip off easily. Cut the beets into quarters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Whisk the red wine vinegar, oil, sugar, and mustard in a large bowl. Add the beets and toss to coat. Allow the beets to stand in the vinegar mixture for 2 hours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. To prepare the mustard sauce, combine the red wine vinegar, mustard, sugar, and honey in a medium bowl and whisk to blend. Slowly pour in the vegetable oil, whisking constantly. Whisk in the dill and salt and pepper to taste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Drain the beets and cut into 1/4-inch dice. Place them in a large bowl and add the apple, red onion, herring, and minced pickle. Pour half the mustard sauce over the salad and toss to blend. Add more mustard sauce a little at a time until the salad is well coated. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt and pepper as necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Mark Russ Federman will be talking about his book with chef and cookbook author \u003ca href=\"http://www.joycegoldstein.com/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a> on March 10 at 12pm at the San Francisco Jewish Community Center. The event is sold out, but the talk will be streamed live on the \u003ca href=\"https://www.jccsf.org/arts-ideas/lectures/culinary/brunch-w-russ-daughters/\">JCC website\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Sodium Girl Jessica Goldman Foung Finds Flavor Sans Salt",
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"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57569\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/Jessica-Goldman1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/Jessica-Goldman1000.jpg\" alt=\"Jessica Goldman Foung started eating for health after illness struck. Photo: Norbert von der Groeben, courtesy Stanford Hospital & Clinics\" width=\"1000\" height=\"578\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57569\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jessica Goldman Foung started eating for health after illness struck. Photo: Norbert von der Groeben, courtesy Stanford Hospital & Clinics\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There likely aren't many cookbooks out there that include a nod to the author's kidneys in the acknowledgments. But in Jessica Goldman Foung's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Sodium-Girls-Limitless-Low-Sodium-Cookbook/dp/1118123778\">\u003cem>Sodium Girl's Limitless Low-Sodium Cookbook\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, she not only thanks these vital organs, she does so by name. She calls her kidneys Frank and Stein.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given Goldman Foung's health history -- the woman nearly died during her college years, the result of an aggressive form of lupus attacking her kidneys and brain that required chemotherapy to combat -- her fondness for her resilient kidneys is understandable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At 21, Goldman Foung found herself on dialysis waiting for a transplant. She could have wallowed in the misery of it all, instead she opted to overhaul her diet and began a strict low-sodium, no-salt regimen. With that shift, and in concert with topnotch medical care, her kidneys began regenerating over the course of a year in such a way that not even her doctors at Stanford Hospital could fully explain. Fast forward to today and she's officially been kicked off the kidney transplant list for nine years and has stayed healthy and active through diet and medications alone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given all she went through -- and learned along the way -- she sought to share her experiences with others who might benefit from a low-sodium way of life. In 2009 she began her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sodiumgirl.com/\">Sodium Girl\u003c/a>, and ever since she's been experimenting with creating tasty favorite foods and comfort fare \u003cem>sans \u003c/em>salt in her kitchen. The self-taught cook champions finding alternative flavors through techniques like smoking and roasting, by drawing on the natural salty taste found in foods like beets and celery and in experimenting with spices. She's also the queen of substitutions to create finger-licking food. Think: molasses for miso, cauliflower for cheese, balsamic blueberry sauce for BBQ sauce, and tamarind paste for soy sauce to create a teriyaki-like alternative. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The granddaughter of \u003ca href=\"http://www.goldmanfund.org/html/about/history.html\">philanthropists Richard and Rhoda Goldman\u003c/a> (perhaps best known for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.goldmanprize.org/\">Goldman Environmental Prize\u003c/a>), this bubbly 30-year-old has worked in development for \u003ca href=\"http://www.odcdance.org/\">ODC Dance Company\u003c/a> and is soon to sit on the board of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/\">CUESA\u003c/a>, where she first had the chance to wax poetic about produce and other wholesome foods for the non-profit's newsletter. The self-described foodlanthropist writes regularly for \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblesanfrancisco.com/\">\u003cem>Edible San Francisco\u003c/em>\u003c/a> and lives in Noe Valley with her husband and 4-month-old daughter Nomi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Goldman Foung will talk buffalo wings, pad Thai, and baked macaroni and peas -- all whipped up without the addition of those addictive white crystals, at a reading at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\">Omnivore Books on March 3\u003c/a>. She'll also hold cooking demonstrations at \u003ca href=\"http://18reasons.org/calendar.php\">18 Reasons on March 4\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/events/2013/seasonal-cooking-demo-jessica-goldman-foung\">at CUESA on March 30\u003c/a>. Sodium Girl spoke with Bay Area Bites last week and shared recipes from her new book too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/Sodium-Girl-Book-Jacket-e1359657421753.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/Sodium-Girl-Book-Jacket-e1359657421753.jpg\" alt=\"Sodium Girls Limitless Low-Sodium Cookbook\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-57555\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why did you start your food blog?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was trying to figure out what kind of job was going to work for my health and my body. I wanted to be a writer -- I was a creative writing major at Stanford -- but I basically had to start my career from ground zero. The best advice I got at the time was start with a blog and write about what you know, and what I know about is living with lupus and eating a low-sodium diet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my first posts -- the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sodiumgirl.com/blackdresstheory/\">black dress theory\u003c/a> uses the analogy that losing salt from your diet is like not having black in your closet. It was the moment when I found my voice. I wanted to talk about a low-sodium life in a way people can relate to. It was a younger, fresher, more positive and playful way to tackle the subject with spirit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone had always told me to write about my experience being sick but I had never found the right vehicle. Food became the perfect way to write about overcoming challenges, making the most of things, and using your hardships to set sail on new adventures. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Are there many other low-sodium cookbooks?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a good handful but what's missing is the low-sodium cookbook that can be on anyone's shelf that you can share with friends or take out when you're having a dinner party, one that leaves you with the knowledge you can salt-free any recipe and make it work. That's where my cookbook comes in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Low-sodium cooking has been excommunicated from the culinary world because salt has been put on this flavor pedestal. We've got to change that so low sodium is seen more like vegan or gluten-free cooking. It adds to the culinary playbook versus being totally separate from it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57573\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/kimchi-burger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/kimchi-burger.jpg\" alt=\"Say what? A kimchi umami burger with no added salt. Photo: Jessica Goldman Foung\" width=\"500\" height=\"355\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57573\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Say what? A kimchi umami burger with no added salt. Photo: Jessica Goldman Foung\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you eat before you got sick?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was a junk food eater. I think I would be in big trouble if I hadn't gotten sick because I ate Taco Bell and French fries all the time. I grew up in a family where we used a microwave to steam our vegetables and we ordered out three nights a week; I ate a lot of Chinese food and pizza. I was also a very unadventurous eater: I was mostly just into traditional American comfort fare. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you miss the taste of salt?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I actually don't even remember it. Some people ask me about salt substitutes but I'm like: 'Why would you even go there?' Salt is almost offensive to my mouth now because it's so strong to me. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are some of the myths about low-sodium food that you've dispelled by living without salt?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Low-sodium food is viewed as dull, boring, time consuming, and costly. Also: No eating out, no eating convenience or comfort foods, nothing canned, and no eating with friends. I discovered that none of those things have to be true. Now, if you just remove salt, a dish is going to be unappealing, because it's just the food you love without salt and that's not going to work. I joke about endangered spices: Because we're so focused on only using salt other spices may become extinct. But celery seed is a great salt replacement, because it has so much natural sodium taste. Curry, cumin, and coriander seed are strong flavors you can use everywhere. I'm having a passionate affair with those three right now. But there are so many spices to play with -- smoked paprika, dill, mace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57578\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/chix1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/chix1000.jpg\" alt=\"Sodium Girl's salt-free version of the classic comfort fare buffalo wings. Photo: Jessica Goldman Foung\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57578\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sodium Girl's salt-free version of the classic comfort fare buffalo wings. Photo: Jessica Goldman Foung\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How is it dining around town with your dietary needs?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco has been so accommodating. I tell people in situations like mine: Don't be afraid to strike up a relationship. If you have a restaurant you love to go to, call ahead, meet with the manager, and sit down and say: 'Here is what I'm living with, what do you need me to do to make it easier for people? How many days ahead do you need me to call?' If you make relationships you're going to get food cooked the way you need it. And then you don't feel like an outsider anymore; if anything you feel like a VIP diner. I probably get better meals than my friends because they're usually made by the head chef, to order, with so much care.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfmaverick.com/\">Maverick\u003c/a> was the first place where I received a salt-free meal that was cooked with as much flair as all the other plates coming out of the kitchen. \u003ca href=\"http://www.fireflyrestaurant.com/\">Firefly\u003c/a> is down the street from me, so I go maybe twice a month -- frequenting a place definitely helps. The more they cook for me the more adventurous they get. I went to \u003ca href=\"http://www.nojosf.com/\">Nojo\u003c/a>, the Japanense izakaya restaurant, with a last-minute reservation thinking I could get sashimi, which is easy for me. I took one look at the menu and thought there's no way I can eat here I'll just drink my dinner. But the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblesanfrancisco.com/?p=4228\">chef Greg Dunmore\u003c/a> circled on the menu what he thought he could do over for me salt- free. I had chicken neck, sautéed chicken liver, and food flavored with his personal stash of special chili peppers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why invite prominent chefs, including \u003ca href=\"http://tracidesjardins.com/\">Traci Des Jardins\u003c/a> (Jardiniere, Mijita Cocina Mexicana), \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfmaverick.com/scott_youkilis.asp\">Scott Youkilis\u003c/a> (Maverick, Hog & Rocks) and \u003ca href=\"http://www.hubertkeller.com/\">Hubert Keller\u003c/a> (Fleur de Lys), to contribute recipes to this book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chefs love to create new tastes and they love a challenge, this is what they do and why they cook. Their contributions are testimony that even top chefs can have fun and hold the salt, in dishes full of flavors, layers, and unexpected combinations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Were there any recipe flops that didn't make it into the book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The one I wanted in there that didn't make it was pho. I got it right on my first try but didn't write anything down and I wasn't able to replicate it again. I will have a faux pho on my website at some stage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's your day-to-day life like living with lupus?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I deal with chronic joint pain, chronic fatigue, and I'm immune suppressed, so I don't have a lot of reserves. I also have hypertension from my kidneys. I have to watch my fluid retention and all that fun stuff. And there are lots of aftershocks from chemo. For the most part, though, I'm busier and more active than most people I know. My condition has never stopped me from doing anything I wanted to do, I just have to be creative about it. I'm on a ton of meds and I have to check in with my doctors on a regular basis, but so much less so than when I was younger. When I was writing the book I was like: 'Okay kidneys, don't fail on me now because that would be really bad marketing.' \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Are you always able to remain upbeat in the face of adversity?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My life before my illness prepared me for when I got sick. I was misdiagnosed with juvenile rheumatoid arthritis, which is what my mom has, so I have this amazing role model of a woman. You would never know she was sick. She's always positive. Her theory is when your life is changed, change your life. When I got sick I had a rule: It was okay to be sad but you couldn't do it in my hospital room. When I shaved my head, I invited friends over and we had drinks and played music. It's not like I don't break down, I do. Having a good three-hour cry is important, and then you eat chocolate and you call it a day. At a certain point it's not useful energy and I have only so much energy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why have you chosen to donate a portion of your book's royalties to \u003ca href=\"http://wholesomewave.org/\">Wholesome Wave\u003c/a>?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Philanthropy has always been a part of my life. I'm a Goldman, I don't usually talk about it much, but I'm embracing it as I get older. I never wanted people to think that I was spoiled or to judge me. I wanted to have a career for myself outside of my family, which is funny because I went into the nonprofit world. But I always wanted to be in a profession where I was giving back. I worked for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.arthritis.org/\">Arthritis Foundation\u003c/a> and ODC, and while health and the arts are really important it never felt like I was touching enough people and having a big enough impact. I watched \u003ca href=\"http://www.sonypictures.com/homevideo/julieandjulia/\">\"Julie & Julia\"\u003c/a> and \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.takepart.com/foodinc\">Food, Inc.\u003c/a>\" on the same day when I was in the middle of funemployment and I realized that food was going to be it for me, that access point that combines social issues, education, the environment, and health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sustainable agriculture has become my passion and my book talks about using fresh ingredients when so few people have access to good fresh food or the cost is prohibitive. It's a bigger problem than I can solve and not my expertise, so the only way I could write this book and have it sit well with me is to have it help fund people who are addressing the issue of fresh food access for everyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57576\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/salad1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/salad1000.jpg\" alt=\"Fresh food for all: Pickled beet salad Photo: Jessica Goldman Foung\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57576\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fresh food for all: Pickled beet salad Photo: Jessica Goldman Foung\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is there a takeaway from writing this cookbook you'd like to share with home cooks? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People freak out when they're cooking a recipe and they don't have an ingredient when that really is the moment when they should jump for joy. Don't have a potato but have an apple? Go for it -- that will automatically change the dish. Enjoy experimenting, don't think recipes are set in stone, and remember that you have creative license when you cook. That's one of my favorite ways to cook: To switch out an ingredient and make it your own, just different enough, say, using fennel instead of celery. It's all good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's next?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm teaching a writing class through continuing education at Stanford in April \u003ca href=\"https://continuingstudies.stanford.edu/courses/course.php?cid=20123_PDV+26\">Writing Through Illness\u003c/a>. I've been very lucky I have this platform where I get to share my experiences and it's so empowering and I think that's why I never see myself as losing out. I gained so much from telling my story. Not everyone realizes they can have that platform. It's a five-week course and at the end we're doing an open mic at the medical school. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I'd really like to write an interactive children's story for kids with kidney disease for while they're in doctors' waiting rooms. I think I'll call it \u003cem>The Adventures of Frank and Stein\u003c/em>. Frank and Stein really need their own book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57581\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/bloody-mary.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/bloody-mary.jpg\" alt=\"Time for a low-sodium Bloody Mary. We thought you'd never ask. Photo: Jessica Goldman Foung\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57581\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Time for a low-sodium Bloody Mary. We thought you'd never ask. Photo: Jessica Goldman Foung\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Quick Kimchi + Crispy Tofu Salad\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Kimchi comes in jars. It’s bright red. It’s salty. It was once just a Korean side dish or topper for steamed rice. But now it can be found in pancakes, on pizzas, and in major grocery store aisles. And while you cannot make an exact replica without the salt—which is an essential part of the fermentation process—you can get close with similarly punchy ingredients like chili oil, nori, vinegar, sugar, garlic, and sesame oil. The cabbage takes at least a day to soak in all the good flavors, so prepare ahead for this salad. The rest is simple and easy to assemble. Oh, and before I forget, don’t skip the crisped tofu. It adds welcome firm bite to the otherwise slick greens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57562\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/Kimchi-Tofu-Salad600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/Kimchi-Tofu-Salad600.jpg\" alt=\"Quick Kimchi + Crispy Tofu Salad. Photo: Matt Armendariz\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57562\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Quick Kimchi + Crispy Tofu Salad. Photo: Matt Armendariz\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 2 to 4\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Effort Level: Plan Ahead\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n6 loosely packed cups chopped savoy or Napa cabbage\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 cup water\u003cbr>\n6 garlic cloves, smashed in a garlic press\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 sheet Pacific nori\u003cbr>\n5 tablespoons sesame oil\u003cbr>\n1⁄4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar\u003cbr>\n2 green onions, thinly sliced (everything but the bulb)\u003cbr>\nJuice of 1⁄2 lime\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon diced ginger\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 teaspoon granulated white sugar\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 to 1 teaspoon salt-free chili oil\u003cbr>\n2 cups cubed firm tofu, 1⁄2 inch high and 1 inch wide\u003cbr>\n1⁄4 teaspoon ground turmeric\u003cbr>\nToasted white sesame seeds\u003cbr>\nRed chili pepper flakes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the cabbage, water, and the garlic into a pot and bring to a rolling boil over medium heat. Cook until the cabbage is soft and wilted, 8 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, using scissors, shred the nori into very thin 2-inch strips. Cut until you have about 1⁄2 cup of shredded nori; save any extra.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an airtight container, whisk together 2 tablespoons of the sesame oil, the rice vinegar, nori, three-quarters of the green onions, the lime juice, ginger, sugar, and chili oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the cabbage and garlic mixture has cooked, remove the pot from of the heat and drain out any leftover liquid. Transfer the cabbage and garlic to the container with the rice vinegar marinade. Place the lid on top, shake vigorously to coat. Place the tofu, 2 tablespoons of the sesame oil, and the turmeric in another airtight container, and shake it gently to spread the oil and spice. Place the cabbage and tofu containers in the refrigerator and marinate for 24 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you’re close to eating time, heat 1 tablespoon of the sesame oil in a skillet over high heat. Take the cubes of tofu out of their marinade and, working in batches, fry until their skin bubbles and turns golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Flip them over, sprinkle some sesame seeds on top, and fry the opposite sides, 3 to 5 minutes more. Repeat until all the tofu cubes are cooked. They are now yellow, crispy, and ready to be eaten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, place a serving of kimchi salad in bowls or on a plate and then layer the tofu on top. Sprinkle with leftover green onion slices, more sesame seeds, and chili pepper fl akes, to taste if desired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>sodium count:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSavoy cabbage: 20mg per 1 cup shredded; Cabbage (general variety): 13mg per 1 cup shredded; Tofu: 0 to 10mg depending on brand\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Coconut Dream Bars\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>This recipe for Dream Bars is from my wonderful grandmother, who I am sure pickpocketed it from someone else. But for the sake of legacy and honor, we will just go ahead and give her full credit.\u003cbr>\nThese brookies (brownie cookies) are good. Really good. They are dense and insanely sweet, and the real surprise comes from the crunchy brown sugar crust (who knew you could make a crust from sugar?) and sweetened, sugar-soaked coconut (who knew coconut could get even tastier?). This is what makes them really addictive. So don’t be embarrassed when you find yourself picking at the caramelized pieces of dream bars that stick to the side of the pan. I do it, too, every time I make them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This dessert is superchewy and it holds up well when given a deep dunk in a glass of coconut milk. To make them, you need only a few bowls, one pan, and 40 minutes of your precious time. So bake up a batch whenever you have a sweet-tooth craving and an hour to spare. And make sure to grab a few for yourself before daring to share with others.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To jazz them up, pair the bars with fresh strawberries or raspberries, or even a drizzle of melted dark chocolate on the top, because who says no to melted chocolate? These are sweet dreams come true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57561\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/Coconut-dream-bars600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/Coconut-dream-bars600.jpg\" alt=\"Coconut Dream Bars. Photo: Matt Armendariz\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57561\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Coconut Dream Bars. Photo: Matt Armendariz\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 to 16 bars\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup unsweetened shredded coconut\u003cbr>\n1 cup sugar water (1 cup water plus 1 cup granulated white sugar)\u003cbr>\n1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small chunks and softened at room temperature\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups packed dark brown sugar\u003cbr>\n2 large eggs, beaten\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoons sodium-free baking powder\u003cbr>\nPowdered sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350°F.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the coconut into a small bowl, and in a small saucepan, bring the sugar water to a simmer over a medium-low heat. When it begins bubbling, pour the sugar water over the coconut and let it soak for 30 minutes. Drain the coconut from the sugar water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a separate small bowl, using your fingers to mix 1 cup of the flour, the softened butter cubes, and 1/2 cup of the brown sugar until it forms a crumbly dough. This is your crust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spread the dough evenly along the bottom of a greased 8 by 8-inch baking pan, using your fingers to press the dough onto the bottom and sides of the pan. Your crust should be about 1/2 inch thick. Place the pan in the oven and bake until the crust is lightly browned, 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and let the crust cool for about 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, mix the remaining 1 cup brown sugar, the eggs, vanilla extract, remaining 2 tablespoons flour, the baking powder, and the drained coconut. Pour the mixture evenly over the crust.\u003cbr>\nPlace the dream bars in the oven and bake for 25 minutes. When the top has turned a caramel-brown color and has hardened, remove the bars from the oven, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>sodium count:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRaw coconut: 0 to 15mg per 1 cup depending on brand; Eggs: 71mg per large egg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes reprinted with permission from\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Sodium-Girls-Limitless-Low-Sodium-Cookbook/dp/1118123778\">\u003cem>Sodium Girl's Limitless Low-Sodium Cookbook\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The bubbly voice behind the blog Sodium Girl has a new cookbook. Sarah Henry talks with Jessica Goldman Foung about finding flavor outside the salt shaker.",
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"description": "The bubbly voice behind the blog Sodium Girl has a new cookbook. Sarah Henry talks with Jessica Goldman Foung about finding flavor outside the salt shaker.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57569\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/Jessica-Goldman1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/Jessica-Goldman1000.jpg\" alt=\"Jessica Goldman Foung started eating for health after illness struck. Photo: Norbert von der Groeben, courtesy Stanford Hospital & Clinics\" width=\"1000\" height=\"578\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57569\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jessica Goldman Foung started eating for health after illness struck. Photo: Norbert von der Groeben, courtesy Stanford Hospital & Clinics\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There likely aren't many cookbooks out there that include a nod to the author's kidneys in the acknowledgments. But in Jessica Goldman Foung's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Sodium-Girls-Limitless-Low-Sodium-Cookbook/dp/1118123778\">\u003cem>Sodium Girl's Limitless Low-Sodium Cookbook\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, she not only thanks these vital organs, she does so by name. She calls her kidneys Frank and Stein.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given Goldman Foung's health history -- the woman nearly died during her college years, the result of an aggressive form of lupus attacking her kidneys and brain that required chemotherapy to combat -- her fondness for her resilient kidneys is understandable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At 21, Goldman Foung found herself on dialysis waiting for a transplant. She could have wallowed in the misery of it all, instead she opted to overhaul her diet and began a strict low-sodium, no-salt regimen. With that shift, and in concert with topnotch medical care, her kidneys began regenerating over the course of a year in such a way that not even her doctors at Stanford Hospital could fully explain. Fast forward to today and she's officially been kicked off the kidney transplant list for nine years and has stayed healthy and active through diet and medications alone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given all she went through -- and learned along the way -- she sought to share her experiences with others who might benefit from a low-sodium way of life. In 2009 she began her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sodiumgirl.com/\">Sodium Girl\u003c/a>, and ever since she's been experimenting with creating tasty favorite foods and comfort fare \u003cem>sans \u003c/em>salt in her kitchen. The self-taught cook champions finding alternative flavors through techniques like smoking and roasting, by drawing on the natural salty taste found in foods like beets and celery and in experimenting with spices. She's also the queen of substitutions to create finger-licking food. Think: molasses for miso, cauliflower for cheese, balsamic blueberry sauce for BBQ sauce, and tamarind paste for soy sauce to create a teriyaki-like alternative. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The granddaughter of \u003ca href=\"http://www.goldmanfund.org/html/about/history.html\">philanthropists Richard and Rhoda Goldman\u003c/a> (perhaps best known for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.goldmanprize.org/\">Goldman Environmental Prize\u003c/a>), this bubbly 30-year-old has worked in development for \u003ca href=\"http://www.odcdance.org/\">ODC Dance Company\u003c/a> and is soon to sit on the board of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/\">CUESA\u003c/a>, where she first had the chance to wax poetic about produce and other wholesome foods for the non-profit's newsletter. The self-described foodlanthropist writes regularly for \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblesanfrancisco.com/\">\u003cem>Edible San Francisco\u003c/em>\u003c/a> and lives in Noe Valley with her husband and 4-month-old daughter Nomi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Goldman Foung will talk buffalo wings, pad Thai, and baked macaroni and peas -- all whipped up without the addition of those addictive white crystals, at a reading at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\">Omnivore Books on March 3\u003c/a>. She'll also hold cooking demonstrations at \u003ca href=\"http://18reasons.org/calendar.php\">18 Reasons on March 4\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/events/2013/seasonal-cooking-demo-jessica-goldman-foung\">at CUESA on March 30\u003c/a>. Sodium Girl spoke with Bay Area Bites last week and shared recipes from her new book too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/Sodium-Girl-Book-Jacket-e1359657421753.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/Sodium-Girl-Book-Jacket-e1359657421753.jpg\" alt=\"Sodium Girls Limitless Low-Sodium Cookbook\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-57555\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why did you start your food blog?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was trying to figure out what kind of job was going to work for my health and my body. I wanted to be a writer -- I was a creative writing major at Stanford -- but I basically had to start my career from ground zero. The best advice I got at the time was start with a blog and write about what you know, and what I know about is living with lupus and eating a low-sodium diet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my first posts -- the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sodiumgirl.com/blackdresstheory/\">black dress theory\u003c/a> uses the analogy that losing salt from your diet is like not having black in your closet. It was the moment when I found my voice. I wanted to talk about a low-sodium life in a way people can relate to. It was a younger, fresher, more positive and playful way to tackle the subject with spirit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone had always told me to write about my experience being sick but I had never found the right vehicle. Food became the perfect way to write about overcoming challenges, making the most of things, and using your hardships to set sail on new adventures. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Are there many other low-sodium cookbooks?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a good handful but what's missing is the low-sodium cookbook that can be on anyone's shelf that you can share with friends or take out when you're having a dinner party, one that leaves you with the knowledge you can salt-free any recipe and make it work. That's where my cookbook comes in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Low-sodium cooking has been excommunicated from the culinary world because salt has been put on this flavor pedestal. We've got to change that so low sodium is seen more like vegan or gluten-free cooking. It adds to the culinary playbook versus being totally separate from it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57573\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/kimchi-burger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/kimchi-burger.jpg\" alt=\"Say what? A kimchi umami burger with no added salt. Photo: Jessica Goldman Foung\" width=\"500\" height=\"355\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57573\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Say what? A kimchi umami burger with no added salt. Photo: Jessica Goldman Foung\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you eat before you got sick?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was a junk food eater. I think I would be in big trouble if I hadn't gotten sick because I ate Taco Bell and French fries all the time. I grew up in a family where we used a microwave to steam our vegetables and we ordered out three nights a week; I ate a lot of Chinese food and pizza. I was also a very unadventurous eater: I was mostly just into traditional American comfort fare. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you miss the taste of salt?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I actually don't even remember it. Some people ask me about salt substitutes but I'm like: 'Why would you even go there?' Salt is almost offensive to my mouth now because it's so strong to me. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are some of the myths about low-sodium food that you've dispelled by living without salt?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Low-sodium food is viewed as dull, boring, time consuming, and costly. Also: No eating out, no eating convenience or comfort foods, nothing canned, and no eating with friends. I discovered that none of those things have to be true. Now, if you just remove salt, a dish is going to be unappealing, because it's just the food you love without salt and that's not going to work. I joke about endangered spices: Because we're so focused on only using salt other spices may become extinct. But celery seed is a great salt replacement, because it has so much natural sodium taste. Curry, cumin, and coriander seed are strong flavors you can use everywhere. I'm having a passionate affair with those three right now. But there are so many spices to play with -- smoked paprika, dill, mace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57578\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/chix1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/chix1000.jpg\" alt=\"Sodium Girl's salt-free version of the classic comfort fare buffalo wings. Photo: Jessica Goldman Foung\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57578\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sodium Girl's salt-free version of the classic comfort fare buffalo wings. Photo: Jessica Goldman Foung\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How is it dining around town with your dietary needs?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco has been so accommodating. I tell people in situations like mine: Don't be afraid to strike up a relationship. If you have a restaurant you love to go to, call ahead, meet with the manager, and sit down and say: 'Here is what I'm living with, what do you need me to do to make it easier for people? How many days ahead do you need me to call?' If you make relationships you're going to get food cooked the way you need it. And then you don't feel like an outsider anymore; if anything you feel like a VIP diner. I probably get better meals than my friends because they're usually made by the head chef, to order, with so much care.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfmaverick.com/\">Maverick\u003c/a> was the first place where I received a salt-free meal that was cooked with as much flair as all the other plates coming out of the kitchen. \u003ca href=\"http://www.fireflyrestaurant.com/\">Firefly\u003c/a> is down the street from me, so I go maybe twice a month -- frequenting a place definitely helps. The more they cook for me the more adventurous they get. I went to \u003ca href=\"http://www.nojosf.com/\">Nojo\u003c/a>, the Japanense izakaya restaurant, with a last-minute reservation thinking I could get sashimi, which is easy for me. I took one look at the menu and thought there's no way I can eat here I'll just drink my dinner. But the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblesanfrancisco.com/?p=4228\">chef Greg Dunmore\u003c/a> circled on the menu what he thought he could do over for me salt- free. I had chicken neck, sautéed chicken liver, and food flavored with his personal stash of special chili peppers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why invite prominent chefs, including \u003ca href=\"http://tracidesjardins.com/\">Traci Des Jardins\u003c/a> (Jardiniere, Mijita Cocina Mexicana), \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfmaverick.com/scott_youkilis.asp\">Scott Youkilis\u003c/a> (Maverick, Hog & Rocks) and \u003ca href=\"http://www.hubertkeller.com/\">Hubert Keller\u003c/a> (Fleur de Lys), to contribute recipes to this book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chefs love to create new tastes and they love a challenge, this is what they do and why they cook. Their contributions are testimony that even top chefs can have fun and hold the salt, in dishes full of flavors, layers, and unexpected combinations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Were there any recipe flops that didn't make it into the book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The one I wanted in there that didn't make it was pho. I got it right on my first try but didn't write anything down and I wasn't able to replicate it again. I will have a faux pho on my website at some stage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's your day-to-day life like living with lupus?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I deal with chronic joint pain, chronic fatigue, and I'm immune suppressed, so I don't have a lot of reserves. I also have hypertension from my kidneys. I have to watch my fluid retention and all that fun stuff. And there are lots of aftershocks from chemo. For the most part, though, I'm busier and more active than most people I know. My condition has never stopped me from doing anything I wanted to do, I just have to be creative about it. I'm on a ton of meds and I have to check in with my doctors on a regular basis, but so much less so than when I was younger. When I was writing the book I was like: 'Okay kidneys, don't fail on me now because that would be really bad marketing.' \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Are you always able to remain upbeat in the face of adversity?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My life before my illness prepared me for when I got sick. I was misdiagnosed with juvenile rheumatoid arthritis, which is what my mom has, so I have this amazing role model of a woman. You would never know she was sick. She's always positive. Her theory is when your life is changed, change your life. When I got sick I had a rule: It was okay to be sad but you couldn't do it in my hospital room. When I shaved my head, I invited friends over and we had drinks and played music. It's not like I don't break down, I do. Having a good three-hour cry is important, and then you eat chocolate and you call it a day. At a certain point it's not useful energy and I have only so much energy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why have you chosen to donate a portion of your book's royalties to \u003ca href=\"http://wholesomewave.org/\">Wholesome Wave\u003c/a>?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Philanthropy has always been a part of my life. I'm a Goldman, I don't usually talk about it much, but I'm embracing it as I get older. I never wanted people to think that I was spoiled or to judge me. I wanted to have a career for myself outside of my family, which is funny because I went into the nonprofit world. But I always wanted to be in a profession where I was giving back. I worked for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.arthritis.org/\">Arthritis Foundation\u003c/a> and ODC, and while health and the arts are really important it never felt like I was touching enough people and having a big enough impact. I watched \u003ca href=\"http://www.sonypictures.com/homevideo/julieandjulia/\">\"Julie & Julia\"\u003c/a> and \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.takepart.com/foodinc\">Food, Inc.\u003c/a>\" on the same day when I was in the middle of funemployment and I realized that food was going to be it for me, that access point that combines social issues, education, the environment, and health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sustainable agriculture has become my passion and my book talks about using fresh ingredients when so few people have access to good fresh food or the cost is prohibitive. It's a bigger problem than I can solve and not my expertise, so the only way I could write this book and have it sit well with me is to have it help fund people who are addressing the issue of fresh food access for everyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57576\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/salad1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/salad1000.jpg\" alt=\"Fresh food for all: Pickled beet salad Photo: Jessica Goldman Foung\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57576\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fresh food for all: Pickled beet salad Photo: Jessica Goldman Foung\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is there a takeaway from writing this cookbook you'd like to share with home cooks? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People freak out when they're cooking a recipe and they don't have an ingredient when that really is the moment when they should jump for joy. Don't have a potato but have an apple? Go for it -- that will automatically change the dish. Enjoy experimenting, don't think recipes are set in stone, and remember that you have creative license when you cook. That's one of my favorite ways to cook: To switch out an ingredient and make it your own, just different enough, say, using fennel instead of celery. It's all good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's next?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm teaching a writing class through continuing education at Stanford in April \u003ca href=\"https://continuingstudies.stanford.edu/courses/course.php?cid=20123_PDV+26\">Writing Through Illness\u003c/a>. I've been very lucky I have this platform where I get to share my experiences and it's so empowering and I think that's why I never see myself as losing out. I gained so much from telling my story. Not everyone realizes they can have that platform. It's a five-week course and at the end we're doing an open mic at the medical school. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I'd really like to write an interactive children's story for kids with kidney disease for while they're in doctors' waiting rooms. I think I'll call it \u003cem>The Adventures of Frank and Stein\u003c/em>. Frank and Stein really need their own book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57581\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/bloody-mary.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/bloody-mary.jpg\" alt=\"Time for a low-sodium Bloody Mary. We thought you'd never ask. Photo: Jessica Goldman Foung\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57581\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Time for a low-sodium Bloody Mary. We thought you'd never ask. Photo: Jessica Goldman Foung\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Quick Kimchi + Crispy Tofu Salad\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Kimchi comes in jars. It’s bright red. It’s salty. It was once just a Korean side dish or topper for steamed rice. But now it can be found in pancakes, on pizzas, and in major grocery store aisles. And while you cannot make an exact replica without the salt—which is an essential part of the fermentation process—you can get close with similarly punchy ingredients like chili oil, nori, vinegar, sugar, garlic, and sesame oil. The cabbage takes at least a day to soak in all the good flavors, so prepare ahead for this salad. The rest is simple and easy to assemble. Oh, and before I forget, don’t skip the crisped tofu. It adds welcome firm bite to the otherwise slick greens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57562\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/Kimchi-Tofu-Salad600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/Kimchi-Tofu-Salad600.jpg\" alt=\"Quick Kimchi + Crispy Tofu Salad. Photo: Matt Armendariz\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57562\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Quick Kimchi + Crispy Tofu Salad. Photo: Matt Armendariz\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 2 to 4\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Effort Level: Plan Ahead\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n6 loosely packed cups chopped savoy or Napa cabbage\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 cup water\u003cbr>\n6 garlic cloves, smashed in a garlic press\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 sheet Pacific nori\u003cbr>\n5 tablespoons sesame oil\u003cbr>\n1⁄4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar\u003cbr>\n2 green onions, thinly sliced (everything but the bulb)\u003cbr>\nJuice of 1⁄2 lime\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon diced ginger\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 teaspoon granulated white sugar\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 to 1 teaspoon salt-free chili oil\u003cbr>\n2 cups cubed firm tofu, 1⁄2 inch high and 1 inch wide\u003cbr>\n1⁄4 teaspoon ground turmeric\u003cbr>\nToasted white sesame seeds\u003cbr>\nRed chili pepper flakes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the cabbage, water, and the garlic into a pot and bring to a rolling boil over medium heat. Cook until the cabbage is soft and wilted, 8 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, using scissors, shred the nori into very thin 2-inch strips. Cut until you have about 1⁄2 cup of shredded nori; save any extra.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an airtight container, whisk together 2 tablespoons of the sesame oil, the rice vinegar, nori, three-quarters of the green onions, the lime juice, ginger, sugar, and chili oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the cabbage and garlic mixture has cooked, remove the pot from of the heat and drain out any leftover liquid. Transfer the cabbage and garlic to the container with the rice vinegar marinade. Place the lid on top, shake vigorously to coat. Place the tofu, 2 tablespoons of the sesame oil, and the turmeric in another airtight container, and shake it gently to spread the oil and spice. Place the cabbage and tofu containers in the refrigerator and marinate for 24 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you’re close to eating time, heat 1 tablespoon of the sesame oil in a skillet over high heat. Take the cubes of tofu out of their marinade and, working in batches, fry until their skin bubbles and turns golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Flip them over, sprinkle some sesame seeds on top, and fry the opposite sides, 3 to 5 minutes more. Repeat until all the tofu cubes are cooked. They are now yellow, crispy, and ready to be eaten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, place a serving of kimchi salad in bowls or on a plate and then layer the tofu on top. Sprinkle with leftover green onion slices, more sesame seeds, and chili pepper fl akes, to taste if desired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>sodium count:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSavoy cabbage: 20mg per 1 cup shredded; Cabbage (general variety): 13mg per 1 cup shredded; Tofu: 0 to 10mg depending on brand\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Coconut Dream Bars\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>This recipe for Dream Bars is from my wonderful grandmother, who I am sure pickpocketed it from someone else. But for the sake of legacy and honor, we will just go ahead and give her full credit.\u003cbr>\nThese brookies (brownie cookies) are good. Really good. They are dense and insanely sweet, and the real surprise comes from the crunchy brown sugar crust (who knew you could make a crust from sugar?) and sweetened, sugar-soaked coconut (who knew coconut could get even tastier?). This is what makes them really addictive. So don’t be embarrassed when you find yourself picking at the caramelized pieces of dream bars that stick to the side of the pan. I do it, too, every time I make them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This dessert is superchewy and it holds up well when given a deep dunk in a glass of coconut milk. To make them, you need only a few bowls, one pan, and 40 minutes of your precious time. So bake up a batch whenever you have a sweet-tooth craving and an hour to spare. And make sure to grab a few for yourself before daring to share with others.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To jazz them up, pair the bars with fresh strawberries or raspberries, or even a drizzle of melted dark chocolate on the top, because who says no to melted chocolate? These are sweet dreams come true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57561\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/Coconut-dream-bars600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/Coconut-dream-bars600.jpg\" alt=\"Coconut Dream Bars. Photo: Matt Armendariz\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57561\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Coconut Dream Bars. Photo: Matt Armendariz\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 to 16 bars\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup unsweetened shredded coconut\u003cbr>\n1 cup sugar water (1 cup water plus 1 cup granulated white sugar)\u003cbr>\n1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small chunks and softened at room temperature\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups packed dark brown sugar\u003cbr>\n2 large eggs, beaten\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoons sodium-free baking powder\u003cbr>\nPowdered sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350°F.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the coconut into a small bowl, and in a small saucepan, bring the sugar water to a simmer over a medium-low heat. When it begins bubbling, pour the sugar water over the coconut and let it soak for 30 minutes. Drain the coconut from the sugar water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a separate small bowl, using your fingers to mix 1 cup of the flour, the softened butter cubes, and 1/2 cup of the brown sugar until it forms a crumbly dough. This is your crust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spread the dough evenly along the bottom of a greased 8 by 8-inch baking pan, using your fingers to press the dough onto the bottom and sides of the pan. Your crust should be about 1/2 inch thick. Place the pan in the oven and bake until the crust is lightly browned, 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and let the crust cool for about 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, mix the remaining 1 cup brown sugar, the eggs, vanilla extract, remaining 2 tablespoons flour, the baking powder, and the drained coconut. Pour the mixture evenly over the crust.\u003cbr>\nPlace the dream bars in the oven and bake for 25 minutes. When the top has turned a caramel-brown color and has hardened, remove the bars from the oven, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>sodium count:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nRaw coconut: 0 to 15mg per 1 cup depending on brand; Eggs: 71mg per large egg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes reprinted with permission from\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Sodium-Girls-Limitless-Low-Sodium-Cookbook/dp/1118123778\">\u003cem>Sodium Girl's Limitless Low-Sodium Cookbook\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Cookbook Review: Home Made Winter",
"title": "Cookbook Review: Home Made Winter",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Brisk mornings, windy afternoons, cold dark nights: short of living with a cat on your lap, is there a better place to stay warm in the winter than in the kitchen? Especially since, unlike our shivering, snowed-in brethren in the Midwest and Northeast, we still have an abundance of gorgeous fresh, local produce in our markets, from avocados and clementines to kale, lettuce and those fabulous watermelon radishes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/homemadecover600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/homemadecover600.jpg\" alt=\"Home Made Winter\" width=\"250\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-55832\">\u003c/a>My latest inspiration for cold-day cooking (before our early-arriving spring banishes the chill) is \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/161769004X/kqedorg-20\">Home Made Winter\u003c/a> by \u003ca href=\"http://yvettevanboven.com/\">Yvette van Boven\u003c/a>, an Irish-born cook, food stylist, and writer who divides her time between Amsterdam (where she and her cousin run a restaurant and catering business) and Paris. Oof Verschuren, her photographer husband, took the pictures, which range from luscious but reassuringly unfussy food shots to misty, atmospheric photos of bare branches, shaggy ponies, winding lanes and lichen-splotched stones, in cool earth tones or snowy black and white. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A sequel to her first book \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1584799463/kqedorg-20\">Home Made\u003c/a>, this is a charmingly stylish book, loose-limbed and deliciously idiosyncratic. As she writes in the introduction, \"When I finished writing \u003cem>Home Made,\u003c/em> I realized that I actually wasn't quite done. There were still heaps of recipes, waiting wistfully, and every day new ones were added.\" Lucky for us, van Boven has turned those heaps into a pair of new books--the warm-weather, French-inspired \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1617690155/kqedorg-20\">Home Made Summer\u003c/a> comes out this spring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55900\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/yvettecolor.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/yvettecolor.jpg\" alt=\"Yvette van Boven. Photo: Oof Verschuren\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55900\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yvette van Boven. Photo: Oof Verschuren\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Who wouldn't love a cookbook that puts a little illustration and recipe for a bubbly, ruby \"welcome cocktail\" (1 part cranberry juice, 1 part ginger ale, 1 part vodka) right there on the copyright page, across from a drawing of a little green dog wearing a collar and a chef's hat, saying \"Hey! There you are.\" Paging through this book is the next best thing to hanging out with van Boven and her pals, who, as evidenced by Verschuren's pictures, look like fun, gregarious, artsy people who bundle up in big scarves and like to eat and drink a lot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chapters meander, pleasantly, throughout the day, from Breakfast, Brunch, & Lunch to tea-time Cakes. Then, all of sudden, it's late afternoon, early darkness, the streetlights are on, and it's cocktail hour and time for Drinks. Little snacky things--homemade Salt and Vinegar Crisps (potato chips), Popcorn Rocks (with maple syrup, cinnamon, and hot pepper flakes), Beet Blini with Salmon--show up To Start, then it's time to pull up a chair and dig into Main Courses and Dessert. Scattered throughout are hand-drawn illustrations and hand-written recipes, plus lots of DIY projects--homemade butter, yogurt and cheese, beef sausage, a sweet-spiced hazelnut-almond-peanut butter, Irish cream liqueur--and little sidetracks into holiday musings and recipes, in no particular order. In this book, Halloween (Oct 31) runs into Epiphany (Jan 6), followed by a skip back to St Nicholas Eve (Dec 5), then a leap forward to St Patrick's Day (March 17), back to Christmas (Dec 25), and finally a grand, sparkly blowout on New Year's Eve (Dec 31).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55902\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/goatcheese-fondue.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/goatcheese-fondue.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration by Yvette van Boven\" width=\"200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55902\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Illustration by Yvette van Boven\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This is Northern European food, the wintery dishes of her Irish and Dutch homelands, not stolid but not lacking in potatoes, butter, and cream, either. There's the dish she's dubbed Dublin Lawyer (\"Because lawyers from Dublin are fat, rich, and always drunk...\"), made with lobster meat bathed in a rich sauce of butter, whiskey, and cream and served in a split-open lobster shell. There's a Duck and Sage Terrine sealed with melted butter and a white-on-white Tartiflette that uses cod instead of bacon to liven up this cheese-rich potato casserole from the French Alps. Tall, quiche-like Fluffy Pies have a secret, shared by a French cook: \"Less egg, more cream\". There are inventive fondues, a nouvelle-cuisine-ish Turbot Tower with Cabbage and Vanilla Beurre Blanc, and cut-out Christmas Sintercookies spiced, surprisingly, with Chinese five-spice powder and anise seeds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, there are a lot of wonderful drinks, some refreshing, most warming, from van Boven's favorite Winter Tea simmered with fresh ginger, licorice root, cinnamon stick, orange zest, and cloves to a Mulled Wine spiked with a shot of gin. (If you didn't already suspect there was nothing good for you in that oh-so-yummy bottle of Bailey's, here's where you learn that the homemade version is put together with heavy cream, sweetened condensed milk, coffee powder, whiskey, and chocolate syrup.) You can wake up with a nippy fresh Pineapple-Ginger Juice, toast with a convivial Clementine Negroni, or celebrate with a Winter Cocktail of vodka, cranberry juice, and orange zest shaken with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream, about which van Boven writes, \"Snow and cranberries in a glass. It doesn't get any more wintery than this.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55905\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/pulledpork.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/pulledpork.jpg\" alt=\" Illustration by Yvette van Boven\" width=\"200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55905\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Illustration by Yvette van Boven\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There's plenty of meat to keep you warm, too. Pulled Pork is deconstructed, step by step, the how-to topped with a happy pig reassuring you that \"This ridiculously delicious meal takes time, but NO effort.\" Leek and quinoa salad is larded with bacon; goat cheese salad uses slices of blood sausage as croutons. There's Steak and Kidney Pie, Oxtail Stew with Beluga Lentils, Beef Brisket and more, often balanced with tangy-tart fruit chutneys and relishes made from the winter fruit larder of pears, apples, citrus, and cranberries. And look closer at that picture of what appears, at first glance, to be a simple roast chicken. In fact, it's something closer to a Dutch turducken, deboned and stuffed with a football's worth of veal and pork sausage, \u003cem>then\u003c/em> roasted. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not that there aren't plenty of simple, healthy, mostly vegetarian soups, too: Spelt and Mushroom Soup, with woodsy dried porcini; Chickpea Soup with Sweet Potato and Feta Crackers; Creme of White Beans and Celeriac with Chile Oil; A Gentle Soup of Leeks and Chestnuts; Split Pea Soup with Squash and Yogurt. The vegetarian main courses are equally cozy, including Risotto with Cauliflower, a star-topped puff-pastry pie filled with celeriac and wild mushrooms, even a very British Toad-in-the-Hole whose pastry is wrapped around a roasted red onion instead of the typical sausage. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It can take some paging back and forth to find what you want (see \"deliciously idiosyncratic,\" above), since the recipe organization is whimsical at best, and you're as likely to find a photograph of a contemplative rooster or a dog in the snow as a recipe for Irish Stew. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few tips for American readers might have been helpful. Van Boven frequently calls for self-rising flour, a European staple that's hard to find in the U.S., at least around here. (It's more common in the biscuit-loving South.) She doesn't give a replacement, but it's easy to do: For each cup of self-rising flour, sift 1 cup of all-purpose flour with 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder and 1/2 teaspoon salt. As for those sachets of vanilla sugar, another European mainstay, just substitute 2 teaspoons granulated sugar plus 1 teaspoon vanilla extract for each sachet called for. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any of my fellow stay-at-home/work-from-home brethren should memorize the recipe for van Boven's Sticky Chocolate Cake in Your Coffee Mug in 3 Minutes, which she recommends for \"when you're home alone and you suddenly have an irresistible craving for chocolate but don't feel like doing much work,\" which I think anyone working in close conjunction with a deadline or a small child would agree is pretty much \u003cem>all the time.\u003c/em> Whipping up \u003ca href=\"http://piequeen.blogspot.com/2008/12/10-pm-cocoa-cake.html\">Late Night Easy Cocoa Cake\u003c/a>, my usual go-to, is like making Thanksgiving dinner by comparison: This one is mixed up right in the mug, then microwaved (although she does give conventional oven directions as well). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That one's for home noshing; when company's expected, put together the cover beauty shot, a buttery cardamom pound cake with whole pears baked right in the cake. It's no more work than poaching pears and serving them alongside a slice of cake, but the payoff--how did you \u003cem>do\u003c/em> that?--is much more satisfying. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55826\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/HomeMadeWinterOof-Verschuren600a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/HomeMadeWinterOof-Verschuren600a.jpg\" alt=\"Sticky Chocolate Cake in Your Coffee Mug in 3 Minutes. Photo: Oof Verschuren\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55826\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sticky Chocolate Cake in Your Coffee Mug in 3 Minutes. Photo: Oof Verschuren\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cstrong>Sticky Chocolate Cake in Your Coffee Mug in 3 Minutes\u003c/strong>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Yes, for real! This is ready in three minutes. I don’t like to cook in the microwave, but in this case it’s very appealing. Especially when you’re home alone and you suddenly have an irresistible craving for chocolate but don’t feel like doing much work. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I can imagine, however, that some of you might have trouble with the idea of making a cake in a microwave. If you prefer to use a conventional oven, use self-rising flour instead of all-purpose flour and bake at 350°F (180°C) in a greased ovenproof cup for about 20 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe adapted and reprinted with permission from Home Made Winter by Yvette van Boven, copyright 2012. Published by Stewart, Tabori, & Chang.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time: \u003c/strong>2 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 3 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 5 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 1 mug-sized cake \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder\u003cbr>\n1 sachet (2 tsp) vanilla sugar (see note)\u003cbr>\n1 egg\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp milk\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp sunflower oil\u003cbr>\nIf you wish:\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp chocolate chips or grated chocolate\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp raisins\u003cbr>\nSugar syrup, appelstroop (Dutch apple syrup), golden syrup, a dash of liqueur, or vanilla ice cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Mix the dry ingredients in the coffee mug. Add the egg and whisk with a fork. Add the milk and oil and whisk some more.\u003cbr>\nThen stir in the chocolate chips or raisins, if desired. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Place the mug in the microwave and “bake” the batter for 3 minutes on high. The cake will rise above the rim of the mug, but that’s fine! Let it cool for a bit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. If you wish, add any syrup, a dash of liqueur, or serve with vanilla ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: If you don't have vanilla sugar, use 2 teaspoons granulated sugar and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/HomeMadeWinterOof-Verschuren600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/HomeMadeWinterOof-Verschuren600.jpg\" alt=\"Cardamom Cake with Whole Pears & White Chocolate. Photo: Oof Verschuren\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55825\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cardamom Cake with Whole Pears & White Chocolate. Photo: Oof Verschuren\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cstrong>Cardamom Cake with Whole Pears & White Chocolate\u003c/strong>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>This recipe has been published all over in magazines and newspapers, but I really don’t care; since it’s so good and it looks so cool, it belongs in this collection. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Make it, and you’re sold. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe adapted and reprinted with permission from Home Made Winter by Yvette van Boven, copyright 2012. Published by Stewart, Tabori, & Chang.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 40 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour 40 minutes, plus cooling time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 1 loaf cake (8-10 servings) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFor the pears:\u003cbr>\n3 medium-sized crisp, firm pears (such as Bosc), peeled but whole, with the stem left on\u003cbr>\n1 (750-ml) bottle dry white wine\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cups sugar\u003cbr>\n4 cloves\u003cbr>\n3 star anise pods\u003cbr>\n8 cardamom pods\u003cbr>\n2 cinnamon sticks\u003cbr>\nFor the cake:\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) plus 2 tbsp butter, softened, plus extra for greasing\u003cbr>\n1 cup sugar\u003cbr>\n4 eggs\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups self-rising flour (see note)\u003cbr>\n1 generous tbsp ground cardamom\u003cbr>\npinch of salt\u003cbr>\nAnd further:\u003cbr>\n3 oz white chocolate, in chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Poach the pears: In a large saucepan, combine the pears, wine, sugar, cloves, star anise, cardamom, and cinnamon and poach for 30 minutes over low heat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Take the pears out of the liquid and set aside to cool. Add 2 1/2 cups (500 ml) water to the poaching liquid and boil to reduce the liquid by half. Let cool. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Make the cake: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan and line it with parchment paper. Grease the parchment paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Using a hand mixer, beat the butter and sugar in a large bowl until creamy. Beat in the eggs one at the time. Don’t add a new egg until the previous one is incorporated. Sift the flour, cardamom, and salt over the batter and fold it in. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Spoon the batter into the pan. Press the pears in, stem end up. Bake for 40 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the cake part comes out clean. Allow to cool in the pan, then gently remove the cake from the pan to a rack to cool completely. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Very carefully melt the chocolate: Set a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water, making sure the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Stir the chocolate in the bowl until melted. Using a spoon, drizzle the chocolate over the cake and create nice stripes on top. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Let the chocolate dry for a bit and serve the cake in thick slices, with the reduced pear syrup poured on top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: If using all-purpose flour, add 2 1/4 tsp baking powder and 1 1/2 tsp salt. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Brisk mornings, windy afternoons, cold dark nights: short of living with a cat on your lap, is there a better place to stay warm in the winter than in the kitchen? Especially since, unlike our shivering, snowed-in brethren in the Midwest and Northeast, we still have an abundance of gorgeous fresh, local produce in our markets, from avocados and clementines to kale, lettuce and those fabulous watermelon radishes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/homemadecover600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/homemadecover600.jpg\" alt=\"Home Made Winter\" width=\"250\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-55832\">\u003c/a>My latest inspiration for cold-day cooking (before our early-arriving spring banishes the chill) is \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/161769004X/kqedorg-20\">Home Made Winter\u003c/a> by \u003ca href=\"http://yvettevanboven.com/\">Yvette van Boven\u003c/a>, an Irish-born cook, food stylist, and writer who divides her time between Amsterdam (where she and her cousin run a restaurant and catering business) and Paris. Oof Verschuren, her photographer husband, took the pictures, which range from luscious but reassuringly unfussy food shots to misty, atmospheric photos of bare branches, shaggy ponies, winding lanes and lichen-splotched stones, in cool earth tones or snowy black and white. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A sequel to her first book \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1584799463/kqedorg-20\">Home Made\u003c/a>, this is a charmingly stylish book, loose-limbed and deliciously idiosyncratic. As she writes in the introduction, \"When I finished writing \u003cem>Home Made,\u003c/em> I realized that I actually wasn't quite done. There were still heaps of recipes, waiting wistfully, and every day new ones were added.\" Lucky for us, van Boven has turned those heaps into a pair of new books--the warm-weather, French-inspired \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1617690155/kqedorg-20\">Home Made Summer\u003c/a> comes out this spring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55900\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/yvettecolor.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/yvettecolor.jpg\" alt=\"Yvette van Boven. Photo: Oof Verschuren\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55900\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yvette van Boven. Photo: Oof Verschuren\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Who wouldn't love a cookbook that puts a little illustration and recipe for a bubbly, ruby \"welcome cocktail\" (1 part cranberry juice, 1 part ginger ale, 1 part vodka) right there on the copyright page, across from a drawing of a little green dog wearing a collar and a chef's hat, saying \"Hey! There you are.\" Paging through this book is the next best thing to hanging out with van Boven and her pals, who, as evidenced by Verschuren's pictures, look like fun, gregarious, artsy people who bundle up in big scarves and like to eat and drink a lot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chapters meander, pleasantly, throughout the day, from Breakfast, Brunch, & Lunch to tea-time Cakes. Then, all of sudden, it's late afternoon, early darkness, the streetlights are on, and it's cocktail hour and time for Drinks. Little snacky things--homemade Salt and Vinegar Crisps (potato chips), Popcorn Rocks (with maple syrup, cinnamon, and hot pepper flakes), Beet Blini with Salmon--show up To Start, then it's time to pull up a chair and dig into Main Courses and Dessert. Scattered throughout are hand-drawn illustrations and hand-written recipes, plus lots of DIY projects--homemade butter, yogurt and cheese, beef sausage, a sweet-spiced hazelnut-almond-peanut butter, Irish cream liqueur--and little sidetracks into holiday musings and recipes, in no particular order. In this book, Halloween (Oct 31) runs into Epiphany (Jan 6), followed by a skip back to St Nicholas Eve (Dec 5), then a leap forward to St Patrick's Day (March 17), back to Christmas (Dec 25), and finally a grand, sparkly blowout on New Year's Eve (Dec 31).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55902\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/goatcheese-fondue.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/goatcheese-fondue.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration by Yvette van Boven\" width=\"200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55902\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Illustration by Yvette van Boven\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This is Northern European food, the wintery dishes of her Irish and Dutch homelands, not stolid but not lacking in potatoes, butter, and cream, either. There's the dish she's dubbed Dublin Lawyer (\"Because lawyers from Dublin are fat, rich, and always drunk...\"), made with lobster meat bathed in a rich sauce of butter, whiskey, and cream and served in a split-open lobster shell. There's a Duck and Sage Terrine sealed with melted butter and a white-on-white Tartiflette that uses cod instead of bacon to liven up this cheese-rich potato casserole from the French Alps. Tall, quiche-like Fluffy Pies have a secret, shared by a French cook: \"Less egg, more cream\". There are inventive fondues, a nouvelle-cuisine-ish Turbot Tower with Cabbage and Vanilla Beurre Blanc, and cut-out Christmas Sintercookies spiced, surprisingly, with Chinese five-spice powder and anise seeds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, there are a lot of wonderful drinks, some refreshing, most warming, from van Boven's favorite Winter Tea simmered with fresh ginger, licorice root, cinnamon stick, orange zest, and cloves to a Mulled Wine spiked with a shot of gin. (If you didn't already suspect there was nothing good for you in that oh-so-yummy bottle of Bailey's, here's where you learn that the homemade version is put together with heavy cream, sweetened condensed milk, coffee powder, whiskey, and chocolate syrup.) You can wake up with a nippy fresh Pineapple-Ginger Juice, toast with a convivial Clementine Negroni, or celebrate with a Winter Cocktail of vodka, cranberry juice, and orange zest shaken with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream, about which van Boven writes, \"Snow and cranberries in a glass. It doesn't get any more wintery than this.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55905\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/pulledpork.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/pulledpork.jpg\" alt=\" Illustration by Yvette van Boven\" width=\"200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55905\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Illustration by Yvette van Boven\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There's plenty of meat to keep you warm, too. Pulled Pork is deconstructed, step by step, the how-to topped with a happy pig reassuring you that \"This ridiculously delicious meal takes time, but NO effort.\" Leek and quinoa salad is larded with bacon; goat cheese salad uses slices of blood sausage as croutons. There's Steak and Kidney Pie, Oxtail Stew with Beluga Lentils, Beef Brisket and more, often balanced with tangy-tart fruit chutneys and relishes made from the winter fruit larder of pears, apples, citrus, and cranberries. And look closer at that picture of what appears, at first glance, to be a simple roast chicken. In fact, it's something closer to a Dutch turducken, deboned and stuffed with a football's worth of veal and pork sausage, \u003cem>then\u003c/em> roasted. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not that there aren't plenty of simple, healthy, mostly vegetarian soups, too: Spelt and Mushroom Soup, with woodsy dried porcini; Chickpea Soup with Sweet Potato and Feta Crackers; Creme of White Beans and Celeriac with Chile Oil; A Gentle Soup of Leeks and Chestnuts; Split Pea Soup with Squash and Yogurt. The vegetarian main courses are equally cozy, including Risotto with Cauliflower, a star-topped puff-pastry pie filled with celeriac and wild mushrooms, even a very British Toad-in-the-Hole whose pastry is wrapped around a roasted red onion instead of the typical sausage. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It can take some paging back and forth to find what you want (see \"deliciously idiosyncratic,\" above), since the recipe organization is whimsical at best, and you're as likely to find a photograph of a contemplative rooster or a dog in the snow as a recipe for Irish Stew. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few tips for American readers might have been helpful. Van Boven frequently calls for self-rising flour, a European staple that's hard to find in the U.S., at least around here. (It's more common in the biscuit-loving South.) She doesn't give a replacement, but it's easy to do: For each cup of self-rising flour, sift 1 cup of all-purpose flour with 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder and 1/2 teaspoon salt. As for those sachets of vanilla sugar, another European mainstay, just substitute 2 teaspoons granulated sugar plus 1 teaspoon vanilla extract for each sachet called for. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any of my fellow stay-at-home/work-from-home brethren should memorize the recipe for van Boven's Sticky Chocolate Cake in Your Coffee Mug in 3 Minutes, which she recommends for \"when you're home alone and you suddenly have an irresistible craving for chocolate but don't feel like doing much work,\" which I think anyone working in close conjunction with a deadline or a small child would agree is pretty much \u003cem>all the time.\u003c/em> Whipping up \u003ca href=\"http://piequeen.blogspot.com/2008/12/10-pm-cocoa-cake.html\">Late Night Easy Cocoa Cake\u003c/a>, my usual go-to, is like making Thanksgiving dinner by comparison: This one is mixed up right in the mug, then microwaved (although she does give conventional oven directions as well). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That one's for home noshing; when company's expected, put together the cover beauty shot, a buttery cardamom pound cake with whole pears baked right in the cake. It's no more work than poaching pears and serving them alongside a slice of cake, but the payoff--how did you \u003cem>do\u003c/em> that?--is much more satisfying. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55826\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/HomeMadeWinterOof-Verschuren600a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/HomeMadeWinterOof-Verschuren600a.jpg\" alt=\"Sticky Chocolate Cake in Your Coffee Mug in 3 Minutes. Photo: Oof Verschuren\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55826\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sticky Chocolate Cake in Your Coffee Mug in 3 Minutes. Photo: Oof Verschuren\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cstrong>Sticky Chocolate Cake in Your Coffee Mug in 3 Minutes\u003c/strong>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Yes, for real! This is ready in three minutes. I don’t like to cook in the microwave, but in this case it’s very appealing. Especially when you’re home alone and you suddenly have an irresistible craving for chocolate but don’t feel like doing much work. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I can imagine, however, that some of you might have trouble with the idea of making a cake in a microwave. If you prefer to use a conventional oven, use self-rising flour instead of all-purpose flour and bake at 350°F (180°C) in a greased ovenproof cup for about 20 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe adapted and reprinted with permission from Home Made Winter by Yvette van Boven, copyright 2012. Published by Stewart, Tabori, & Chang.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time: \u003c/strong>2 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 3 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 5 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 1 mug-sized cake \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder\u003cbr>\n1 sachet (2 tsp) vanilla sugar (see note)\u003cbr>\n1 egg\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp milk\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp sunflower oil\u003cbr>\nIf you wish:\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp chocolate chips or grated chocolate\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp raisins\u003cbr>\nSugar syrup, appelstroop (Dutch apple syrup), golden syrup, a dash of liqueur, or vanilla ice cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Mix the dry ingredients in the coffee mug. Add the egg and whisk with a fork. Add the milk and oil and whisk some more.\u003cbr>\nThen stir in the chocolate chips or raisins, if desired. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Place the mug in the microwave and “bake” the batter for 3 minutes on high. The cake will rise above the rim of the mug, but that’s fine! Let it cool for a bit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. If you wish, add any syrup, a dash of liqueur, or serve with vanilla ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: If you don't have vanilla sugar, use 2 teaspoons granulated sugar and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/HomeMadeWinterOof-Verschuren600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/HomeMadeWinterOof-Verschuren600.jpg\" alt=\"Cardamom Cake with Whole Pears & White Chocolate. Photo: Oof Verschuren\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55825\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cardamom Cake with Whole Pears & White Chocolate. Photo: Oof Verschuren\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cstrong>Cardamom Cake with Whole Pears & White Chocolate\u003c/strong>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>This recipe has been published all over in magazines and newspapers, but I really don’t care; since it’s so good and it looks so cool, it belongs in this collection. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Make it, and you’re sold. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe adapted and reprinted with permission from Home Made Winter by Yvette van Boven, copyright 2012. Published by Stewart, Tabori, & Chang.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 40 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour 40 minutes, plus cooling time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 1 loaf cake (8-10 servings) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFor the pears:\u003cbr>\n3 medium-sized crisp, firm pears (such as Bosc), peeled but whole, with the stem left on\u003cbr>\n1 (750-ml) bottle dry white wine\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cups sugar\u003cbr>\n4 cloves\u003cbr>\n3 star anise pods\u003cbr>\n8 cardamom pods\u003cbr>\n2 cinnamon sticks\u003cbr>\nFor the cake:\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) plus 2 tbsp butter, softened, plus extra for greasing\u003cbr>\n1 cup sugar\u003cbr>\n4 eggs\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups self-rising flour (see note)\u003cbr>\n1 generous tbsp ground cardamom\u003cbr>\npinch of salt\u003cbr>\nAnd further:\u003cbr>\n3 oz white chocolate, in chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Poach the pears: In a large saucepan, combine the pears, wine, sugar, cloves, star anise, cardamom, and cinnamon and poach for 30 minutes over low heat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Take the pears out of the liquid and set aside to cool. Add 2 1/2 cups (500 ml) water to the poaching liquid and boil to reduce the liquid by half. Let cool. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Make the cake: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan and line it with parchment paper. Grease the parchment paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Using a hand mixer, beat the butter and sugar in a large bowl until creamy. Beat in the eggs one at the time. Don’t add a new egg until the previous one is incorporated. Sift the flour, cardamom, and salt over the batter and fold it in. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Spoon the batter into the pan. Press the pears in, stem end up. Bake for 40 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the cake part comes out clean. Allow to cool in the pan, then gently remove the cake from the pan to a rack to cool completely. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Very carefully melt the chocolate: Set a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water, making sure the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Stir the chocolate in the bowl until melted. Using a spoon, drizzle the chocolate over the cake and create nice stripes on top. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Let the chocolate dry for a bit and serve the cake in thick slices, with the reduced pear syrup poured on top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Folding Empanadas Into Your Super Bowl Spread",
"title": "Folding Empanadas Into Your Super Bowl Spread",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55689\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/empanadas.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/empanadas.jpg\" alt=\"For chef and restaurateur Jose Garces, watching football on television as a boy also meant snacking on his mother's homemade empanadas.\" width=\"400\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55689\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">For chef and restaurateur Jose Garces, watching football on television as a boy also meant snacking on his mother's homemade empanadas. Photo: Jason Varney\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Listen to the Story on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/01/30/170668788/folding-empanadas-into-your-super-bowl-spread\">All Things Considered:\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/01/20130130_atc_15.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, The Salt at NPR Food (1/30/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Say \"Super Bowl\" to Philadelphia chef and restaurateur \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/24/qa-with-iron-chef-jose-garces/\">Jose Garces\u003c/a>, and he instantly recalls winter Sundays growing up in Chicago. \"While my dad and two brothers and I were watching a Bears football game, empanadas would just appear in front of my lap,\" he tells \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> host Melissa Block.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every Latin American country boasts its own empanadas — baked or fried pockets of dough stuffed with cheese, meat or some other filling. The empanadas Garces ate as a child reflected his family's Ecuadorean roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chef has shared two empanada recipes with NPR: his mother's \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/10/04/162306167/chef-jose-garces-follows-his-latin-road-home\" target=\"_blank\">Empanadas de Viento\u003c/a>, made with \u003cem>queso fresco,\u003c/em> and (below) his grandmother's Empanadas de Verde con Pollo.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Empanadas de Verde con Pollo\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>(Green Plantain Empanadas with Braised Chicken)\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 empanadas\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The plantains must be squeezed through a ricer twice to create a smooth dough and develop the starches. The small dough rounds can be refrigerated for a few hours if covered tightly with plastic wrap; same goes for the formed empanadas. But don't push the timing — the dough will begin to dry out and crack after 3 hours. Any leftover chicken filling is excellent in tacos or on a salad. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dough\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 green plantains (about 1 pound)\u003cbr>Kosher salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chicken Filling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003cbr> 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil\u003cbr> 1/4 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, coarsely cut into 1/2-inch pieces\u003cbr> 1/4 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast, coarsely cut into 1/2-inch pieces\u003cbr> 1/2 Spanish onion, diced small\u003cbr> 1 tablespoon minced garlic (3 to 4 cloves)\u003cbr> 1 teaspoon Spanish smoked sweet paprika\u003cbr> 1 tablespoon achiote paste \u003cbr> 2 tablespoons tomato paste\u003cbr>1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds, toasted and ground\u003cbr> 1 cup chicken stock \u003cbr> 1 small Yukon gold potato, peeled, diced small, and blanched \u003cbr> 1/2 pound fresh English peas, shelled and blanched \u003cbr> 1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro\u003cbr> 2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley\u003cbr> 2 scallions (white and green parts), minced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>1 1/2 quarts vegetable oil, for frying\u003cbr>\u003cem>Aji costeno,\u003c/em> for serving\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To peel the plantains, split the skins lengthwise with a sharp knife and soak in warm water until the skins are easily removed, about 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the dough, bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil and cook the plantains until they are soft, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow the plantains to rest in the water until they are cool to the touch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pass the cooked plantains through a ricer into a bowl. Rice the plantains a second time. Knead the resulting dough until it is very smooth, about 5 minutes. Allow the dough to rest at room temperature, covered with a damp towel, for 1 hour before making the empanadas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the filling, heat the butter and olive oil in a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chicken, onion and garlic and cook until lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the paprika, achiote paste, tomato paste, and cumin and cook for 2 to 3 minutes more. Add the stock, potato, peas, cilantro, parsley and scallions and season to taste with salt and pepper. Let the mixture cool to room temperature. Lift out the chicken meat, shred it and mix it back into the filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To assemble the empanadas, divide the dough into a dozen 1-inch balls. Using a manual tortilla press, a rolling pin or the heel of your hand, press each dough ball into a circle about 6 inches in diameter. Mound 2 tablespoons of the filling in the center of each round and fold over to form a half-moon shape. Use a dinner fork to crimp the outer edge. Alternatively, use a plastic empanada press from a Latin market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To cook the empanadas, heat the vegetable oil to 350 degrees in a stockpot, using a candy or deep-fry thermometer to monitor the temperature. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fry the empanadas in batches until golden brown and crispy, 3 to 4 minutes each, turning once in the oil. Drain them on the baking sheet. Season to taste with salt before serving with aji.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe from\u003c/em> The Latin Road Home \u003cem>by Jose Garces. Copyright 2012 by Jose Garces. Excerpted by permission of Lake Isle Press.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The Super Bowl isn't just about football — it's also about food. For chef and restaurateur Jose Garces, watching football as a boy meant enjoying homemade empanadas with his brothers in front of the television on Sunday afternoons.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55689\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/empanadas.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/empanadas.jpg\" alt=\"For chef and restaurateur Jose Garces, watching football on television as a boy also meant snacking on his mother's homemade empanadas.\" width=\"400\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55689\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">For chef and restaurateur Jose Garces, watching football on television as a boy also meant snacking on his mother's homemade empanadas. Photo: Jason Varney\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Listen to the Story on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/01/30/170668788/folding-empanadas-into-your-super-bowl-spread\">All Things Considered:\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, The Salt at NPR Food (1/30/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Say \"Super Bowl\" to Philadelphia chef and restaurateur \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/24/qa-with-iron-chef-jose-garces/\">Jose Garces\u003c/a>, and he instantly recalls winter Sundays growing up in Chicago. \"While my dad and two brothers and I were watching a Bears football game, empanadas would just appear in front of my lap,\" he tells \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> host Melissa Block.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every Latin American country boasts its own empanadas — baked or fried pockets of dough stuffed with cheese, meat or some other filling. The empanadas Garces ate as a child reflected his family's Ecuadorean roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chef has shared two empanada recipes with NPR: his mother's \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/10/04/162306167/chef-jose-garces-follows-his-latin-road-home\" target=\"_blank\">Empanadas de Viento\u003c/a>, made with \u003cem>queso fresco,\u003c/em> and (below) his grandmother's Empanadas de Verde con Pollo.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Empanadas de Verde con Pollo\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>(Green Plantain Empanadas with Braised Chicken)\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 empanadas\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The plantains must be squeezed through a ricer twice to create a smooth dough and develop the starches. The small dough rounds can be refrigerated for a few hours if covered tightly with plastic wrap; same goes for the formed empanadas. But don't push the timing — the dough will begin to dry out and crack after 3 hours. Any leftover chicken filling is excellent in tacos or on a salad. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dough\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 green plantains (about 1 pound)\u003cbr>Kosher salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chicken Filling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003cbr> 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil\u003cbr> 1/4 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, coarsely cut into 1/2-inch pieces\u003cbr> 1/4 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast, coarsely cut into 1/2-inch pieces\u003cbr> 1/2 Spanish onion, diced small\u003cbr> 1 tablespoon minced garlic (3 to 4 cloves)\u003cbr> 1 teaspoon Spanish smoked sweet paprika\u003cbr> 1 tablespoon achiote paste \u003cbr> 2 tablespoons tomato paste\u003cbr>1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds, toasted and ground\u003cbr> 1 cup chicken stock \u003cbr> 1 small Yukon gold potato, peeled, diced small, and blanched \u003cbr> 1/2 pound fresh English peas, shelled and blanched \u003cbr> 1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro\u003cbr> 2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley\u003cbr> 2 scallions (white and green parts), minced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>1 1/2 quarts vegetable oil, for frying\u003cbr>\u003cem>Aji costeno,\u003c/em> for serving\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To peel the plantains, split the skins lengthwise with a sharp knife and soak in warm water until the skins are easily removed, about 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the dough, bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil and cook the plantains until they are soft, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow the plantains to rest in the water until they are cool to the touch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pass the cooked plantains through a ricer into a bowl. Rice the plantains a second time. Knead the resulting dough until it is very smooth, about 5 minutes. Allow the dough to rest at room temperature, covered with a damp towel, for 1 hour before making the empanadas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the filling, heat the butter and olive oil in a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chicken, onion and garlic and cook until lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the paprika, achiote paste, tomato paste, and cumin and cook for 2 to 3 minutes more. Add the stock, potato, peas, cilantro, parsley and scallions and season to taste with salt and pepper. Let the mixture cool to room temperature. Lift out the chicken meat, shred it and mix it back into the filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To assemble the empanadas, divide the dough into a dozen 1-inch balls. Using a manual tortilla press, a rolling pin or the heel of your hand, press each dough ball into a circle about 6 inches in diameter. Mound 2 tablespoons of the filling in the center of each round and fold over to form a half-moon shape. Use a dinner fork to crimp the outer edge. Alternatively, use a plastic empanada press from a Latin market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To cook the empanadas, heat the vegetable oil to 350 degrees in a stockpot, using a candy or deep-fry thermometer to monitor the temperature. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fry the empanadas in batches until golden brown and crispy, 3 to 4 minutes each, turning once in the oil. Drain them on the baking sheet. Season to taste with salt before serving with aji.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe from\u003c/em> The Latin Road Home \u003cem>by Jose Garces. Copyright 2012 by Jose Garces. Excerpted by permission of Lake Isle Press.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "4 Tips To Help A Foodie Get Through Chemo",
"title": "4 Tips To Help A Foodie Get Through Chemo",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54801\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/yogurtcontainer-e1358572173420.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/yogurtcontainer-e1358572173420.jpg\" alt=\"Some of the author's favorite foods, like yogurt, just didn't taste good during chemo. Photo: iStockphoto.com\" title=\"Some of the author's favorite foods, like yogurt, just didn't taste good during chemo. Photo: iStockphoto.com\" width=\"560\" height=\"314\" class=\"size-full wp-image-54801\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Some of the author's favorite foods, like yogurt, just didn't taste good during chemo. Photo: iStockphoto.com\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/99818887/madhulika-sikka\">Madhulika Sikka\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/01/17/169333561/4-tips-to-help-a-foodie-get-through-chemo\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (1/17/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I was diagnosed with breast cancer two years ago, it was clear that I would be thinking about a lot of things — myriad doctor visits, multiple tests, surgeries and chemotherapy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are some things I knew about chemotherapy going in: it is unpleasant; it poisons your body; it makes you nauseated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there was also something I wasn't quite as aware of: it\u003cem> \u003c/em>plays havoc with your taste buds and even impacts your reaction to food smells and food textures. In short, eating can become an unpleasant chore. As someone who both loves food and loves to cook, I prepared myself to enter a period of not eating or at least not enjoying eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But does it have to be that way? Not necessarily. Here are four tips I learned to help cope with treatment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. \u003cstrong>Avoid Risk.\u003c/strong> Pay attention to the list your doctors give you of what you can't eat. It took me some time to realize that this list resembles the list of things to avoid when pregnant: unwashed fruits and vegetables, raw and undercooked meat, raw milk products, salad bars, among others. Rather like in pregnancy, your body is undergoing a chemical change during chemo, and with a compromised immune system you have to be careful not to expose yourself to unwanted pathogens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. \u003cstrong>Manage Nausea.\u003c/strong> No duh! But this involves not just the amazing drugs you can now get as part of your treatment; it can also involve some homemade remedies, which offer a nice break from all the medications you will be on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For me, that old standby, ginger, really did work. One of my favorite \u003ca href=\"http://rebeccakatz.com/books/the-cancer-fighting-kitchen/\">cookbooks\u003c/a> to use was \u003cem>The Cancer Fighting Kitchen \u003c/em>by Rebecca Katz with Mat Edelson. I found the \u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/doc/108863292/The-Cancer-Fighting-Kitchen-by-Rebecca-Katz-Recipes-and-Excerpt\">ginger syrup recipe\u003c/a> quite the tonic, along with her Magic Mineral Broth (recipe below). I would say these were staples. In fact, that broth (don't let the secret ingredient — seaweed — scare you) is still standard repertoire in my cooking, long after the end of treatment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. \u003cstrong>Beat Metal Mouth.\u003c/strong> Depending on which chemotherapy regimen you are on, you may find yourself with extreme dry mouth and also a metallic taste in your mouth. If you eat with metal flatware, the metallic taste will be worse. Time to get out the plastic forks. This doesn't last forever, but it really makes a difference.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. \u003cstrong>Focus On Flavor.\u003c/strong> Does it taste good? If it does, eat it. If it doesn't, don't. Could this be more obvious? Well, you will be surprised at how much you will resist this seemingly simple bit of advice. \"Oh, but I must eat X because of its anti-cancer fighting properties,\" you'll say. When you are in the throes of treatment, you don't really have to worry about that because, well, you already have cancer, and you are fighting the cancer by going through treatment!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eating should be a pleasure, and we tend to lose sight of that fact. In fact, eating should be as much about pleasure as it is about health. So don't destroy the pleasure by now forcing yourself to eat something that doesn't smell or taste good to you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I continued to eat yogurt during my treatment because I thought it was good for me. The texture was unbearable, and my gag reflex would kick in, but I soldiered on. Now I can't eat yogurt without loading it with granola or fruit to distance myself from that unpleasant memory that I associate with its texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/169338864/the-cancer-fighting-kitchen-nourishing-big-flavor-recipes-for-cancer-treatment-a\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/cancer-fighting-cookbook-240x300.jpg\" alt=\"The Cancer-Fighting Kitchen Nourishing, Big-Flavor Recipes for Cancer Treatment and Recovery by Mat Edelson and Rebecca Katz\" title=\"The Cancer-Fighting Kitchen Nourishing, Big-Flavor Recipes for Cancer Treatment and Recovery by Mat Edelson and Rebecca Katz\" width=\"240\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-54800\">\u003c/a>And let's go back to the pregnancy analogy. When I was pregnant, I could not drink tea because it tasted bad to me, and that is exactly what happened during chemo, so I stopped. I'm glad I did, because now I have no bad associations at all when it comes to my \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/07/11/156378713/cool-down-with-a-hot-drink-its-not-as-crazy-as-you-think\">tea habit/addiction\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My apologies if you were expecting something more profound from a veteran of chemotherapy. The good news is that as far as food and chemotherapy goes, it is not as complicated a problem as it could be. But while it is not complicated, it is hard to get right. Everyone reacts a little differently, so there is trial and error involved. I ate a lot of peanut butter and chicken and drank protein-fortified smoothies. That's what worked for me. What works for you will be different but attainable, and that is even better news, because you will have plenty of other stuff to deal with during your treatment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, will a cancer cookbook or even an \u003ca href=\"http://www.dana-farber.org/nutrition-app.aspx\">app\u003c/a> help you through this period? Well, usually the recipes are common sense, nutritious foods that you might have been cooking already and will certainly want to continue to cook. What a cookbook can do is help you organize.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A new \u003ca href=\"http://www.countrymanpress.com/titles/CookCancer.html\">book\u003c/a> that just crossed my desk, \u003cem>Cooking through Cancer, \u003c/em>has a table of contents ordered by ailment: Sore Mouth, Nausea & Vomiting, Constipation, etc. This seems particularly useful when you are juggling so much else in managing your treatment, and the recipes look good, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are a range of books to choose from, but actually the best thing you can do with a cancer cookbook is give one to your caregiver or whoever else is preparing meals for you while you are focusing on healing! Don't be embarrassed to do so. People want to help you, and if this is the help you need from them, go ahead — it sure beats a \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2012/10/what-color-is-your-breast-cancer/263459/\">pink teddy bear\u003c/a>. \u003cem>Bon appetit!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Magic Mineral Broth\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reprinted with permission from \u003c/em>The Cancer-Fighting Kitchen: Nourishing, Big-Flavor Recipes for Cancer Treatment and Recovery\u003cem> by Rebecca Katz with Mat Edelson, copyright 2009. Published by Celestial Arts, an imprint of Ten Speed Press and the Crown Publishing Group. Photo Credit: Leo Gong.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 unpeeled carrots, cut into thirds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 unpeeled yellow onions, cut into chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 leek, white and green parts, cut into thirds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch celery, including the heart, cut into thirds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 unpeeled red potatoes, quartered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 unpeeled Japanese or regular sweet potatoes, quartered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 unpeeled garnet yam, quartered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 unpeeled cloves garlic, halved\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 eight-inch strip of kombu (dried strips of seaweed)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 black peppercorns\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 whole allspice or juniper berries\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 bay leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 quarts cold, filtered water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rinse all of the vegetables well, including the kombu. In a 12-quart or larger stockpot, combine the carrots, onions, leek, celery, potatoes, sweet potatoes, yam, garlic, parsley, kombu, peppercorns, allspice berries and bay leaves. Fill the pot with the water to 2 inches below the rim, cover, and bring to a boil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the lid, decrease the heat to low, and simmer, uncovered, for at least two hours. As the broth simmers, some of the water will evaporate; add more if the vegetables begin to peek out. Simmer until the full richness of the vegetables can be tasted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Strain the broth through a large, coarse-mesh sieve (remember to use a heat-resistant container underneath), then add salt to taste. Let cool to room temperature before refrigerating or freezing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Madhulika Sikka is executive editor of NPR News and author of the forthcoming book, A Breast Cancer Alphabet.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">National Public Radio\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54801\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/yogurtcontainer-e1358572173420.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/yogurtcontainer-e1358572173420.jpg\" alt=\"Some of the author's favorite foods, like yogurt, just didn't taste good during chemo. Photo: iStockphoto.com\" title=\"Some of the author's favorite foods, like yogurt, just didn't taste good during chemo. Photo: iStockphoto.com\" width=\"560\" height=\"314\" class=\"size-full wp-image-54801\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Some of the author's favorite foods, like yogurt, just didn't taste good during chemo. Photo: iStockphoto.com\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/99818887/madhulika-sikka\">Madhulika Sikka\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/01/17/169333561/4-tips-to-help-a-foodie-get-through-chemo\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (1/17/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I was diagnosed with breast cancer two years ago, it was clear that I would be thinking about a lot of things — myriad doctor visits, multiple tests, surgeries and chemotherapy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are some things I knew about chemotherapy going in: it is unpleasant; it poisons your body; it makes you nauseated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there was also something I wasn't quite as aware of: it\u003cem> \u003c/em>plays havoc with your taste buds and even impacts your reaction to food smells and food textures. In short, eating can become an unpleasant chore. As someone who both loves food and loves to cook, I prepared myself to enter a period of not eating or at least not enjoying eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But does it have to be that way? Not necessarily. Here are four tips I learned to help cope with treatment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. \u003cstrong>Avoid Risk.\u003c/strong> Pay attention to the list your doctors give you of what you can't eat. It took me some time to realize that this list resembles the list of things to avoid when pregnant: unwashed fruits and vegetables, raw and undercooked meat, raw milk products, salad bars, among others. Rather like in pregnancy, your body is undergoing a chemical change during chemo, and with a compromised immune system you have to be careful not to expose yourself to unwanted pathogens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. \u003cstrong>Manage Nausea.\u003c/strong> No duh! But this involves not just the amazing drugs you can now get as part of your treatment; it can also involve some homemade remedies, which offer a nice break from all the medications you will be on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For me, that old standby, ginger, really did work. One of my favorite \u003ca href=\"http://rebeccakatz.com/books/the-cancer-fighting-kitchen/\">cookbooks\u003c/a> to use was \u003cem>The Cancer Fighting Kitchen \u003c/em>by Rebecca Katz with Mat Edelson. I found the \u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/doc/108863292/The-Cancer-Fighting-Kitchen-by-Rebecca-Katz-Recipes-and-Excerpt\">ginger syrup recipe\u003c/a> quite the tonic, along with her Magic Mineral Broth (recipe below). I would say these were staples. In fact, that broth (don't let the secret ingredient — seaweed — scare you) is still standard repertoire in my cooking, long after the end of treatment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. \u003cstrong>Beat Metal Mouth.\u003c/strong> Depending on which chemotherapy regimen you are on, you may find yourself with extreme dry mouth and also a metallic taste in your mouth. If you eat with metal flatware, the metallic taste will be worse. Time to get out the plastic forks. This doesn't last forever, but it really makes a difference.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. \u003cstrong>Focus On Flavor.\u003c/strong> Does it taste good? If it does, eat it. If it doesn't, don't. Could this be more obvious? Well, you will be surprised at how much you will resist this seemingly simple bit of advice. \"Oh, but I must eat X because of its anti-cancer fighting properties,\" you'll say. When you are in the throes of treatment, you don't really have to worry about that because, well, you already have cancer, and you are fighting the cancer by going through treatment!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eating should be a pleasure, and we tend to lose sight of that fact. In fact, eating should be as much about pleasure as it is about health. So don't destroy the pleasure by now forcing yourself to eat something that doesn't smell or taste good to you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I continued to eat yogurt during my treatment because I thought it was good for me. The texture was unbearable, and my gag reflex would kick in, but I soldiered on. Now I can't eat yogurt without loading it with granola or fruit to distance myself from that unpleasant memory that I associate with its texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/169338864/the-cancer-fighting-kitchen-nourishing-big-flavor-recipes-for-cancer-treatment-a\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/cancer-fighting-cookbook-240x300.jpg\" alt=\"The Cancer-Fighting Kitchen Nourishing, Big-Flavor Recipes for Cancer Treatment and Recovery by Mat Edelson and Rebecca Katz\" title=\"The Cancer-Fighting Kitchen Nourishing, Big-Flavor Recipes for Cancer Treatment and Recovery by Mat Edelson and Rebecca Katz\" width=\"240\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-54800\">\u003c/a>And let's go back to the pregnancy analogy. When I was pregnant, I could not drink tea because it tasted bad to me, and that is exactly what happened during chemo, so I stopped. I'm glad I did, because now I have no bad associations at all when it comes to my \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/07/11/156378713/cool-down-with-a-hot-drink-its-not-as-crazy-as-you-think\">tea habit/addiction\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My apologies if you were expecting something more profound from a veteran of chemotherapy. The good news is that as far as food and chemotherapy goes, it is not as complicated a problem as it could be. But while it is not complicated, it is hard to get right. Everyone reacts a little differently, so there is trial and error involved. I ate a lot of peanut butter and chicken and drank protein-fortified smoothies. That's what worked for me. What works for you will be different but attainable, and that is even better news, because you will have plenty of other stuff to deal with during your treatment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, will a cancer cookbook or even an \u003ca href=\"http://www.dana-farber.org/nutrition-app.aspx\">app\u003c/a> help you through this period? Well, usually the recipes are common sense, nutritious foods that you might have been cooking already and will certainly want to continue to cook. What a cookbook can do is help you organize.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A new \u003ca href=\"http://www.countrymanpress.com/titles/CookCancer.html\">book\u003c/a> that just crossed my desk, \u003cem>Cooking through Cancer, \u003c/em>has a table of contents ordered by ailment: Sore Mouth, Nausea & Vomiting, Constipation, etc. This seems particularly useful when you are juggling so much else in managing your treatment, and the recipes look good, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are a range of books to choose from, but actually the best thing you can do with a cancer cookbook is give one to your caregiver or whoever else is preparing meals for you while you are focusing on healing! Don't be embarrassed to do so. People want to help you, and if this is the help you need from them, go ahead — it sure beats a \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2012/10/what-color-is-your-breast-cancer/263459/\">pink teddy bear\u003c/a>. \u003cem>Bon appetit!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Magic Mineral Broth\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reprinted with permission from \u003c/em>The Cancer-Fighting Kitchen: Nourishing, Big-Flavor Recipes for Cancer Treatment and Recovery\u003cem> by Rebecca Katz with Mat Edelson, copyright 2009. Published by Celestial Arts, an imprint of Ten Speed Press and the Crown Publishing Group. Photo Credit: Leo Gong.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 unpeeled carrots, cut into thirds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 unpeeled yellow onions, cut into chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 leek, white and green parts, cut into thirds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch celery, including the heart, cut into thirds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 unpeeled red potatoes, quartered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 unpeeled Japanese or regular sweet potatoes, quartered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 unpeeled garnet yam, quartered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 unpeeled cloves garlic, halved\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 eight-inch strip of kombu (dried strips of seaweed)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 black peppercorns\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 whole allspice or juniper berries\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 bay leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 quarts cold, filtered water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rinse all of the vegetables well, including the kombu. In a 12-quart or larger stockpot, combine the carrots, onions, leek, celery, potatoes, sweet potatoes, yam, garlic, parsley, kombu, peppercorns, allspice berries and bay leaves. Fill the pot with the water to 2 inches below the rim, cover, and bring to a boil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the lid, decrease the heat to low, and simmer, uncovered, for at least two hours. As the broth simmers, some of the water will evaporate; add more if the vegetables begin to peek out. Simmer until the full richness of the vegetables can be tasted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Strain the broth through a large, coarse-mesh sieve (remember to use a heat-resistant container underneath), then add salt to taste. Let cool to room temperature before refrigerating or freezing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Madhulika Sikka is executive editor of NPR News and author of the forthcoming book, A Breast Cancer Alphabet.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Q&A with Shelley Lindgren: Wine Director, Restaurateur & Author",
"title": "Q&A with Shelley Lindgren: Wine Director, Restaurateur & Author",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54527\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/A16.ShelleyLindgrenCREDIT-Frankie-Frankeny.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54527\" title=\"Shelley Lindgren. Photo credit: Frankie Frankeny\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/A16.ShelleyLindgrenCREDIT-Frankie-Frankeny.jpg\" alt=\"Shelley Lindgren. Photo credit: Frankie Frankeny\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shelley Lindgren. Photo credit: Frankie Frankeny\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/shelleylindgren\">Shelley Lindgren\u003c/a> is a Bay Area success story: owner of the vastly popular \u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com/\">A16\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.spqrsf.com/\">SPQR\u003c/a> restaurants, sommelier, wine director and cookbook author. A second A16 will open in Rockridge this year and Lindgren and owner Victoria Libin had this to share about the upcoming new outpost:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"We are very excited to announce the opening of A16 Rockridge, slated for early 2013 in the former Hudson restaurant space at 5356 College Avenue. We’d also like to officially welcome Rocky Maselli as the new A16 Rockridge Executive Chef... we are looking forward to seeing Rocky’s own interpretations of this cuisine, focusing on his family roots in Puglia, a coastal region of Italy. Guests can expect to see a menu with an emphasis on seafood as well as some southern Italian favorites including burrata, meatballs, and pizza. Shelley Lindgren’s role will include the creation of a Southern Italian-inspired wine program as well as collaboration on the launch of a cocktail program. The new cocktail menu will feature carefully crafted Italian aperitivos, amaros, and digestivos specially brought from Italy, including Rucolino -- a wild arugula amaro from Campania’s Island Ischia. The new space will feature an open kitchen with counter seating, bar seating as well as a private dining area. A16 Rockridge will work with San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"http://ccs-architecture.com/eat/\">Cass Calder Smith\u003c/a> of CCS Architecture to bring the vision for the location to life.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Lindgren grew up in the North Bay and champions interesting and lesser known “soulful” Southern Italian wines. She has worked as a wine educator and restaurant consultant and is married to Greg Lindgren, who is the co-owner of Rye, Rosewood, 15 Romolo, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ryeontheroad.com/\">Rye On the Road\u003c/a> cocktail catering service in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/SPQR-Modern-Italian-Food-Wine/dp/1607740524\">\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-54530\" title=\"SPQR book cover\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/SPQR-1000-262x300.jpg\" alt=\"SPQR book cover\" width=\"262\" height=\"300\">\u003c/a>Lindgren’s list of accomplishments is deep: a 2009 Gourmet magazine Educator Sommelier Award and the \u003ca href=\"http://chefmagazineblog.blogspot.com/2009/11/wcr-women-in-inspire-awards-winners.html\">Golden Goblet by Women Chefs & Restaurateurs\u003c/a> in the same year. She was voted the Best Wine Director by San Francisco Magazine, Best New Sommelier from Wine & Spirits, and made the cut for the Top Ten Sommeliers by Bloomberg Markets. Her first cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://modernmealmaker.com/cookbooks/\">A16 Food + Wine\u003c/a> (Ten Speed Press, 2008) earned two IACP Cookbook Awards: Cookbook of the Year and The Julia Child Award. In 2010, Lindgren was awarded StarChefs.com's San Francisco Bay Area Rising Star Restaurateur award. Bay Area Bites asked Lindgren about her her working life, accomplishments, latest \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/SPQR-Modern-Italian-Food-Wine/dp/1607740524\">SPQR: Modern Italian Food and Wine\u003c/a> cookbook, and got the dish on her favorite wines and places to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>How did the SPQR book project come about?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> After collaborating on the A16 Food & Wine book together, Kate Leahy and I had been in touch with Ten Speed Press about tackling a companion project for SPQR. We landed on the conceit of Roman roads as a structural foundation and selected the main arteries of these ancient routes through central and northern Italy and organized the dishes and wines around them. In Italy, wine and food fits hand to glove and Chef Matthew Accarrino brought incredible knowledge on Italy, cooking, family heritage and a willingness to jump into research trips from the start. Soon we had a terrific way to tell the wonderful stories behind the food and wine of these regions. We just all wanted to do our best to not only translate our experience but also do justice to their greatness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Do you have any good stories from the book tour?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> When Matthew and I have been together at book signings, often he’ll tell a story about a winery or winemaker we visited or I’ll remind him about a time we ate a particular dish or visited an artisan maker for prosciutto, cheese, vinegar, etc. Even though we had our own role in the book, they work complementary, very much how SPQR functions. It’s exciting to find wines that pair with his food and, between the book project and visiting winemakers, our entire team at SPQR has a plethora of stories and recommendations every night. We all have fun geeking out. And actually, just being there and spending so much time with the artisans was a remarkable experience for all of us. When you think about the traditions and the spirit of the people, not to mention the spectacular settings, the whole thing was magical. And the graciousness of our hosts all over the country, letting us into their homes and businesses to see their everyday lives and how they value and use these cherished traditions -- well, I’ll remember it forever. It also inspires me to come back and continue to raise our standards of hospitality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>What are some of your favorite wines from the book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> I love to champion the lesser-known grapes because Italy is ripe with more than one can imagine. I love to hear things like a classic pairing for a particular Lambrusco is pumpkin, or to see wineries aging white wines for decades that still taste fresh. The focus on quality over quantity of Italian winemaking has elevated Italian wine so much in recent years and there is amazing pride in maintaining local tradition, which I admire. Italians don't need much to live a very rich lifestyle. Drinking wine and having complementary meals is really a backbone of Italian living.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>What are you most passionate about for wine and food these days?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> These days a lot of natural wines are increasingly blowing my mind. There’s Cantine Giardino, 'Paski,' Coda di Volpe that goes with a range of sweet and salty salads like chicory lettuce, roasted pear butter, almond, goat cheddar and pink pepper vinaigrette, or puntarelle lettuce, marinated anchovy, radish, egg and fried pork skin. It’s also great with many of Matthew's pastas. One of the more classic pairings is an orange wine like the Rusticum with Matthew's signature smoked fettuccine, sea urchin, smoked bacon, and soft quail egg. Grapes like pelaverga, tezzelenghe, gewürztraminer, cesanese, and pigato are usually the kind of wines we'll pair with dishes by the glass at SPQR. It's a whole lot of fun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Who are your culinary and restaurant mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> Having spent the last 25 years in the Bay Area working in restaurants, I feel lucky to be inspired by so many people. Hubert Keller and the late Maurice Rouas took me under their wings at Fleur De Lys for most of the nineties. During that time, I honed my sommelier skills and realized I would be a restaurant professional as a career (I was about 25 when this decision was cemented). Then, Debbie Zachareas let me be a sommelier at Bacar and I learned a lot about managing as well, which proved invaluable as I kept studying wine, especially with my love of Italian wine. I was a real blank slate when starting to taste the wines of southern Italy and, fortunately, our timing with the opening A16 in 2004 was perfect when more and more gems from the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Southern_Italy\">Mezzogiorno\u003c/a> were becoming available and in better quality. The south of Italy is paradise. Well actually, Italy is paradise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>What are the best things about being a sommelier and restaurateur?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> First of all, I love service. I love making people happy. But beyond that, I always envisioned a place where wine and food were in ideal balance with each other. Coming from fine dining, I really wanted to have elements of fine dining like the correct wine glass, the optimal temperature of wine, and friendly service that was professional yet fun, and I think we’ve achieved that. Whenever I walk into A16 or SPQR, I am excited to get to work and love seeing great teamwork and everyone’s true enthusiasm for food and wine. We are so lucky to work in the restaurant business in the Bay Area. There is always a process of evolution and adjustments to be made, which keeps us on our toes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>And the worst?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> Tough question because there’s plenty of ‘grosser than gross’ things to deal with whether it’s the plumbing needing to be fixed, etc... but, that’s part of the package deal. Restaurant work is not for the faint of heart. There is no resting on laurels. Every day we hit the restart button, and you need to work harder than the day before. Every person has their strength and weaknesses. When we first opened, I was definitely wearing too many hats and that was not sustainable. We learn as we grow and keep our chins up, even when there are difficult decisions to make sometimes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>You are relatively young yet appear to be a success. What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> You grow a really thick skin in the restaurant business and learn how to prioritize and let a lot of things roll off your back. I have learned that if you work hard, love what you do, and keep forging ahead, you’ll succeed. Pretty soon it will be nine years since opening A16's doors. That seems impossible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's also important to understand that restaurants are a business and that there have to be checks and balances for the control of costs. Having a business partner like Victoria Libin and an amazing management team has been key. We’re able to focus on what we individually do best. One person cannot run a restaurant alone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Do you have any favorite Bay Area food/drink spots and if so what do you like to order when you go there?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> I recently had a great meal at \u003ca href=\"https://plus.google.com/110532351510508800438/about?gl=us&hl=en\">Kiss\u003c/a> sushi. The junmai sake I had with the sashimi plate was heaven. Recently I had a great Campari drink at \u003ca href=\"http://aq-sf.com/\">AQ\u003c/a>. I always have fun going to the classics, like \u003ca href=\"http://www.zunicafe.com/\">Zuni\u003c/a> for chicken and oysters, \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a> for crab with cellophane noodles, and a good Veltliner from Prager or Jamek. I spend less time in bars now that I'm a mom but, being married to Greg, who is a partner in Rye, Rosewood, and 15 Romolo, I’m in on all the great innovations on that side of the business. I get to sneak into \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/01/02/interview-with-nopas-jeff-hanak/\">Nopa\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.foreigncinema.com/\">Foreign Cinema\u003c/a>, among others, every once in a while to say hello to friends and unwind with a glass of something.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>What are your wine recommendations for Valentine’s Day?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> I like to think pink with bubbles offering a couple sparkling rose's by the glass. Being still chilly this time of year, decadent, velvety reds like Mourvèdre from producers like Pignol from the Bandol area of Southern France, classic chocolate-covered cherry flavored often found in Sicily's great Nero D'Avola grape such as Feudo Montoni's Vrucara express a wonderful depth of fruit and less astringent tannins from the sun's natural ripeness and withstanding the heat of the Mediterranean summers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Information:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/shelleylindgren\">@shelleylindgren\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/mattaccarrino\">@mattaccarrino\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com/\">\u003cstrong>A16\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/7pu8n\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2355 Chestnut Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94123\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (415) 771-2216\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/A16SF\">@A16SF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/A16sf\">A16\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.spqrsf.com/\">\u003cstrong>SPQR\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/QBYgy\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1911 Fillmore Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94115\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (415) 771-7779\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/spqrfillmore\">@SPQRfillmore\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/SPQRSanFrancisco?ref=share\">SPQR\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Spaghetti with Shrimp and Tomato Passatina\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFrom SPQR by Shelley Lindgren, Matthew Accarrino, and Kate Leahy (Ten Speed Press, October 2012)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/Spaghetti-with-Shrimp-and-Tomato-Passatina700a.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-54529\" title=\"Spaghetti with Shrimp and Tomato Passatina\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/Spaghetti-with-Shrimp-and-Tomato-Passatina700a.jpg\" alt=\"Spaghetti with Shrimp and Tomato Passatina\" width=\"400\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>serves 4 to 6\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>extra virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\n150 grams • 1/2 yellow onion, finely diced\u003cbr>\n12 grams • 3 garlic cloves, minced\u003cbr>\n150 grams • 1 carrot, cut into 1/4-inch pieces\u003cbr>\n454 grams • 1 pound shell-on raw baby shrimp\u003cbr>\nkosher salt and black pepper\u003cbr>\na pinch of dried red pepper flakes\u003cbr>\n115 grams • 1/2 cup white wine\u003cbr>\n240 grams • 11/2 cups canned tomatoes\u003cbr>\n50 grams • 4 breadsticks, like grissini, broken up\u003cbr>\n2 grams • 2 teaspoons chopped parsley\u003cbr>\n340 grams • 12 ounces fresh spaghetti or dried\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat a thin film of olive oil in a large, wide pot over medium heat. Stir in the onion and sweat until softened, 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and sweat 1 to 2 minutes more until aromatic. Add the carrot and sweat until softened, 3 to 4 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turn up the heat to medium-high, stir in the shrimp, and season with salt, pepper, and pepper flakes. Pour in the wine and bring to a simmer. Stir in the tomato and return to a simmer. Pour in 1 cup of water, lower the heat, and cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until the shrimp are soft enough to break up with a wooden spoon if pressed. Stir the broken grissini pieces into the pot, remove from the heat, and stir in the parsley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place a food mill fitted with a coarse plate over a clean pot. In batches, pass the shrimp and broth through the food mill. You will have a coarse paste. (If it’s too dry to go through the food mill, stir in more water). Taste the shrimp paste and season with salt and pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the spaghetti for 4 minutes if using fresh, and as directed on the package if using dry. Drain the spaghetti, reserving a cup of pasta water, and return the spaghetti to the pasta pot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stir spoonfuls of the shrimp paste into the spaghetti until evenly coated, adding a few spoonfuls of water if the pasta looks dry, and simmer for one more minute before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/Spaghetti-with-Shrimp-and-Tomato-Passatina700.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-54528\" title=\"Spaghetti with Shrimp and Tomato Passatina\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/Spaghetti-with-Shrimp-and-Tomato-Passatina700.jpg\" alt=\"Spaghetti with Shrimp and Tomato Passatina\" width=\"400\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mary Ladd interviews Shelley Lindgren, who is a Bay Area success story: owner of the vastly popular A16 and SPQR restaurants, sommelier, wine director and cookbook author. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54527\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/A16.ShelleyLindgrenCREDIT-Frankie-Frankeny.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54527\" title=\"Shelley Lindgren. Photo credit: Frankie Frankeny\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/A16.ShelleyLindgrenCREDIT-Frankie-Frankeny.jpg\" alt=\"Shelley Lindgren. Photo credit: Frankie Frankeny\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shelley Lindgren. Photo credit: Frankie Frankeny\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/shelleylindgren\">Shelley Lindgren\u003c/a> is a Bay Area success story: owner of the vastly popular \u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com/\">A16\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.spqrsf.com/\">SPQR\u003c/a> restaurants, sommelier, wine director and cookbook author. A second A16 will open in Rockridge this year and Lindgren and owner Victoria Libin had this to share about the upcoming new outpost:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"We are very excited to announce the opening of A16 Rockridge, slated for early 2013 in the former Hudson restaurant space at 5356 College Avenue. We’d also like to officially welcome Rocky Maselli as the new A16 Rockridge Executive Chef... we are looking forward to seeing Rocky’s own interpretations of this cuisine, focusing on his family roots in Puglia, a coastal region of Italy. Guests can expect to see a menu with an emphasis on seafood as well as some southern Italian favorites including burrata, meatballs, and pizza. Shelley Lindgren’s role will include the creation of a Southern Italian-inspired wine program as well as collaboration on the launch of a cocktail program. The new cocktail menu will feature carefully crafted Italian aperitivos, amaros, and digestivos specially brought from Italy, including Rucolino -- a wild arugula amaro from Campania’s Island Ischia. The new space will feature an open kitchen with counter seating, bar seating as well as a private dining area. A16 Rockridge will work with San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"http://ccs-architecture.com/eat/\">Cass Calder Smith\u003c/a> of CCS Architecture to bring the vision for the location to life.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Lindgren grew up in the North Bay and champions interesting and lesser known “soulful” Southern Italian wines. She has worked as a wine educator and restaurant consultant and is married to Greg Lindgren, who is the co-owner of Rye, Rosewood, 15 Romolo, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ryeontheroad.com/\">Rye On the Road\u003c/a> cocktail catering service in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/SPQR-Modern-Italian-Food-Wine/dp/1607740524\">\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-54530\" title=\"SPQR book cover\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/SPQR-1000-262x300.jpg\" alt=\"SPQR book cover\" width=\"262\" height=\"300\">\u003c/a>Lindgren’s list of accomplishments is deep: a 2009 Gourmet magazine Educator Sommelier Award and the \u003ca href=\"http://chefmagazineblog.blogspot.com/2009/11/wcr-women-in-inspire-awards-winners.html\">Golden Goblet by Women Chefs & Restaurateurs\u003c/a> in the same year. She was voted the Best Wine Director by San Francisco Magazine, Best New Sommelier from Wine & Spirits, and made the cut for the Top Ten Sommeliers by Bloomberg Markets. Her first cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://modernmealmaker.com/cookbooks/\">A16 Food + Wine\u003c/a> (Ten Speed Press, 2008) earned two IACP Cookbook Awards: Cookbook of the Year and The Julia Child Award. In 2010, Lindgren was awarded StarChefs.com's San Francisco Bay Area Rising Star Restaurateur award. Bay Area Bites asked Lindgren about her her working life, accomplishments, latest \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/SPQR-Modern-Italian-Food-Wine/dp/1607740524\">SPQR: Modern Italian Food and Wine\u003c/a> cookbook, and got the dish on her favorite wines and places to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>How did the SPQR book project come about?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> After collaborating on the A16 Food & Wine book together, Kate Leahy and I had been in touch with Ten Speed Press about tackling a companion project for SPQR. We landed on the conceit of Roman roads as a structural foundation and selected the main arteries of these ancient routes through central and northern Italy and organized the dishes and wines around them. In Italy, wine and food fits hand to glove and Chef Matthew Accarrino brought incredible knowledge on Italy, cooking, family heritage and a willingness to jump into research trips from the start. Soon we had a terrific way to tell the wonderful stories behind the food and wine of these regions. We just all wanted to do our best to not only translate our experience but also do justice to their greatness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Do you have any good stories from the book tour?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> When Matthew and I have been together at book signings, often he’ll tell a story about a winery or winemaker we visited or I’ll remind him about a time we ate a particular dish or visited an artisan maker for prosciutto, cheese, vinegar, etc. Even though we had our own role in the book, they work complementary, very much how SPQR functions. It’s exciting to find wines that pair with his food and, between the book project and visiting winemakers, our entire team at SPQR has a plethora of stories and recommendations every night. We all have fun geeking out. And actually, just being there and spending so much time with the artisans was a remarkable experience for all of us. When you think about the traditions and the spirit of the people, not to mention the spectacular settings, the whole thing was magical. And the graciousness of our hosts all over the country, letting us into their homes and businesses to see their everyday lives and how they value and use these cherished traditions -- well, I’ll remember it forever. It also inspires me to come back and continue to raise our standards of hospitality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>What are some of your favorite wines from the book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> I love to champion the lesser-known grapes because Italy is ripe with more than one can imagine. I love to hear things like a classic pairing for a particular Lambrusco is pumpkin, or to see wineries aging white wines for decades that still taste fresh. The focus on quality over quantity of Italian winemaking has elevated Italian wine so much in recent years and there is amazing pride in maintaining local tradition, which I admire. Italians don't need much to live a very rich lifestyle. Drinking wine and having complementary meals is really a backbone of Italian living.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>What are you most passionate about for wine and food these days?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> These days a lot of natural wines are increasingly blowing my mind. There’s Cantine Giardino, 'Paski,' Coda di Volpe that goes with a range of sweet and salty salads like chicory lettuce, roasted pear butter, almond, goat cheddar and pink pepper vinaigrette, or puntarelle lettuce, marinated anchovy, radish, egg and fried pork skin. It’s also great with many of Matthew's pastas. One of the more classic pairings is an orange wine like the Rusticum with Matthew's signature smoked fettuccine, sea urchin, smoked bacon, and soft quail egg. Grapes like pelaverga, tezzelenghe, gewürztraminer, cesanese, and pigato are usually the kind of wines we'll pair with dishes by the glass at SPQR. It's a whole lot of fun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Who are your culinary and restaurant mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> Having spent the last 25 years in the Bay Area working in restaurants, I feel lucky to be inspired by so many people. Hubert Keller and the late Maurice Rouas took me under their wings at Fleur De Lys for most of the nineties. During that time, I honed my sommelier skills and realized I would be a restaurant professional as a career (I was about 25 when this decision was cemented). Then, Debbie Zachareas let me be a sommelier at Bacar and I learned a lot about managing as well, which proved invaluable as I kept studying wine, especially with my love of Italian wine. I was a real blank slate when starting to taste the wines of southern Italy and, fortunately, our timing with the opening A16 in 2004 was perfect when more and more gems from the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Southern_Italy\">Mezzogiorno\u003c/a> were becoming available and in better quality. The south of Italy is paradise. Well actually, Italy is paradise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>What are the best things about being a sommelier and restaurateur?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> First of all, I love service. I love making people happy. But beyond that, I always envisioned a place where wine and food were in ideal balance with each other. Coming from fine dining, I really wanted to have elements of fine dining like the correct wine glass, the optimal temperature of wine, and friendly service that was professional yet fun, and I think we’ve achieved that. Whenever I walk into A16 or SPQR, I am excited to get to work and love seeing great teamwork and everyone’s true enthusiasm for food and wine. We are so lucky to work in the restaurant business in the Bay Area. There is always a process of evolution and adjustments to be made, which keeps us on our toes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>And the worst?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> Tough question because there’s plenty of ‘grosser than gross’ things to deal with whether it’s the plumbing needing to be fixed, etc... but, that’s part of the package deal. Restaurant work is not for the faint of heart. There is no resting on laurels. Every day we hit the restart button, and you need to work harder than the day before. Every person has their strength and weaknesses. When we first opened, I was definitely wearing too many hats and that was not sustainable. We learn as we grow and keep our chins up, even when there are difficult decisions to make sometimes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>You are relatively young yet appear to be a success. What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> You grow a really thick skin in the restaurant business and learn how to prioritize and let a lot of things roll off your back. I have learned that if you work hard, love what you do, and keep forging ahead, you’ll succeed. Pretty soon it will be nine years since opening A16's doors. That seems impossible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's also important to understand that restaurants are a business and that there have to be checks and balances for the control of costs. Having a business partner like Victoria Libin and an amazing management team has been key. We’re able to focus on what we individually do best. One person cannot run a restaurant alone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Do you have any favorite Bay Area food/drink spots and if so what do you like to order when you go there?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> I recently had a great meal at \u003ca href=\"https://plus.google.com/110532351510508800438/about?gl=us&hl=en\">Kiss\u003c/a> sushi. The junmai sake I had with the sashimi plate was heaven. Recently I had a great Campari drink at \u003ca href=\"http://aq-sf.com/\">AQ\u003c/a>. I always have fun going to the classics, like \u003ca href=\"http://www.zunicafe.com/\">Zuni\u003c/a> for chicken and oysters, \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a> for crab with cellophane noodles, and a good Veltliner from Prager or Jamek. I spend less time in bars now that I'm a mom but, being married to Greg, who is a partner in Rye, Rosewood, and 15 Romolo, I’m in on all the great innovations on that side of the business. I get to sneak into \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/01/02/interview-with-nopas-jeff-hanak/\">Nopa\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.foreigncinema.com/\">Foreign Cinema\u003c/a>, among others, every once in a while to say hello to friends and unwind with a glass of something.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>What are your wine recommendations for Valentine’s Day?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lindgren:\u003c/strong> I like to think pink with bubbles offering a couple sparkling rose's by the glass. Being still chilly this time of year, decadent, velvety reds like Mourvèdre from producers like Pignol from the Bandol area of Southern France, classic chocolate-covered cherry flavored often found in Sicily's great Nero D'Avola grape such as Feudo Montoni's Vrucara express a wonderful depth of fruit and less astringent tannins from the sun's natural ripeness and withstanding the heat of the Mediterranean summers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Information:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/shelleylindgren\">@shelleylindgren\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/mattaccarrino\">@mattaccarrino\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com/\">\u003cstrong>A16\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/7pu8n\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2355 Chestnut Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94123\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (415) 771-2216\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/A16SF\">@A16SF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/A16sf\">A16\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.spqrsf.com/\">\u003cstrong>SPQR\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/QBYgy\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1911 Fillmore Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94115\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (415) 771-7779\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/spqrfillmore\">@SPQRfillmore\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/SPQRSanFrancisco?ref=share\">SPQR\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Spaghetti with Shrimp and Tomato Passatina\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFrom SPQR by Shelley Lindgren, Matthew Accarrino, and Kate Leahy (Ten Speed Press, October 2012)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/Spaghetti-with-Shrimp-and-Tomato-Passatina700a.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-54529\" title=\"Spaghetti with Shrimp and Tomato Passatina\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/Spaghetti-with-Shrimp-and-Tomato-Passatina700a.jpg\" alt=\"Spaghetti with Shrimp and Tomato Passatina\" width=\"400\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>serves 4 to 6\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>extra virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\n150 grams • 1/2 yellow onion, finely diced\u003cbr>\n12 grams • 3 garlic cloves, minced\u003cbr>\n150 grams • 1 carrot, cut into 1/4-inch pieces\u003cbr>\n454 grams • 1 pound shell-on raw baby shrimp\u003cbr>\nkosher salt and black pepper\u003cbr>\na pinch of dried red pepper flakes\u003cbr>\n115 grams • 1/2 cup white wine\u003cbr>\n240 grams • 11/2 cups canned tomatoes\u003cbr>\n50 grams • 4 breadsticks, like grissini, broken up\u003cbr>\n2 grams • 2 teaspoons chopped parsley\u003cbr>\n340 grams • 12 ounces fresh spaghetti or dried\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat a thin film of olive oil in a large, wide pot over medium heat. Stir in the onion and sweat until softened, 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and sweat 1 to 2 minutes more until aromatic. Add the carrot and sweat until softened, 3 to 4 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turn up the heat to medium-high, stir in the shrimp, and season with salt, pepper, and pepper flakes. Pour in the wine and bring to a simmer. Stir in the tomato and return to a simmer. Pour in 1 cup of water, lower the heat, and cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until the shrimp are soft enough to break up with a wooden spoon if pressed. Stir the broken grissini pieces into the pot, remove from the heat, and stir in the parsley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place a food mill fitted with a coarse plate over a clean pot. In batches, pass the shrimp and broth through the food mill. You will have a coarse paste. (If it’s too dry to go through the food mill, stir in more water). Taste the shrimp paste and season with salt and pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the spaghetti for 4 minutes if using fresh, and as directed on the package if using dry. Drain the spaghetti, reserving a cup of pasta water, and return the spaghetti to the pasta pot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stir spoonfuls of the shrimp paste into the spaghetti until evenly coated, adding a few spoonfuls of water if the pasta looks dry, and simmer for one more minute before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_53789\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" title=\"Charles Phan. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" width=\"200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-53789\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Charles Phan fled Vietnam with his family during the fall of Saigon when he was just a boy. But he didn't leave behind his love of Vietnamese cuisine. The award-winning chef and owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">The Slanted Door\u003c/a> restaurant joins KQED's Forum to talk about his new book, \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/doc/104012307/Vietnamese-Home-Cooking\">Vietnamese Home Cooking\u003c/a>.\" He also shares secrets of creating high-end ethnic cuisine, and how he stays true to his roots in the kitchen.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201301031000\">Original Broadcast\u003c/a>: Thu, Jan 3, 2013 -- 10:00 AM\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/forum/2013/01/20130103bforum.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Host:\u003c/strong> Thuy Vu\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Guest:\u003c/strong> Charles Phan, executive chef and owner of The Slanted Door Group, which now includes \u003ca href=\"http://outthedoors.com/\">Out the Door\u003c/a>, Heaven's Dog and the \u003ca href=\"http://wohinggeneralstore.com/\">Wo Hing General Store\u003c/a>, and winner of the James Beard Award for Best Chef in California in 2004\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_53789\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/560_BAB_CharlesPhan_ImagesBy-EricWolfinger.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" title=\"Charles Phan. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\" width=\"200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-53789\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan. Image courtesy of Eric Wolfinger.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Charles Phan fled Vietnam with his family during the fall of Saigon when he was just a boy. But he didn't leave behind his love of Vietnamese cuisine. The award-winning chef and owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">The Slanted Door\u003c/a> restaurant joins KQED's Forum to talk about his new book, \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/doc/104012307/Vietnamese-Home-Cooking\">Vietnamese Home Cooking\u003c/a>.\" He also shares secrets of creating high-end ethnic cuisine, and how he stays true to his roots in the kitchen.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201301031000\">Original Broadcast\u003c/a>: Thu, Jan 3, 2013 -- 10:00 AM\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Everything You Need to Know About Bruce Aidells",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52361\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Aidells.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Aidells.jpg\" alt=\"Bruce Aidells. Photo: Luca Trovato\" title=\"Bruce Aidells. Photo: Luca Trovato\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52361\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bruce Aidells. Photo: Luca Trovato\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.aidells.com/our-way/aidells-story\">Bruce Aidells\u003c/a> deserves the title of “King of Meat” after years of crafting delectable meaty goods and founding an eponymous sausage company in 1983. Aidells is widely known as a prolific expert on everything related to sausages, meat, salumi, and charcuterie. His story has ties to the Bay Area, where he has lived for many years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The longtime success of Aidells sausages marked a huge shift leading up to the late 1970s, when Americans bought sausage as an occasional breakfast staple with little variety. Now you can find creative sausage links that show Aidells’ culinary craft: chicken apple, artichoke garlic, or even pineapple bacon fly off the shelves at Costco and grocery outlets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2002, Aidells left the sausage company to pursue recipe consulting and writing work. The Bay Area resident is an award-winning author and has a new hefty cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/book/9780547241418\">\u003cstrong>The Great Meat Cookbook: Everything you Need to Know to Buy and Cook Today's Meat\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, $40). Aidells ably breaks down meat cuts and labels, and gives budget-friendly advice on using under appreciated (and usually cheaper) parts. He told me that this may his last book; readers may hope not after diving into creative recipes that include lusty meatloaf, beer broth marinated hanger steak and braised Montana coffee-marinated bison short ribs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aidells got his start as the first chef and co-owner at the popular \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2006/12/24/caramel-cake-the-recipe/\">Poulet\u003c/a> restaurant in Berkeley in 1979 and is married to chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevardrestaurant.com/#info-chef\">Nancy Oakes\u003c/a> of Boulevard and Prospect fame. I caught up with Aidells after a recent book signing event in San Francisco.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nBay Area Bites: Your wife Nancy Oakes is a chef-restaurateur. How does that play out in your home kitchen? Who decides what to cook?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: I’m an ex-chef and she’s a current chef, so we’re not used to people telling us what to do. We do things our own way. Even how a piece of bread gets sliced is debated: I would cut it perpendicular and she’s going to cut on a bias. If we have company over, she’ll plan the meal and I’ll cook the meat. For Thanksgiving, she cooked and I determined when the turkey was done. I carved the turkey, which I do every year. Unfortunately, neither of us know how to cook for small groups so we make a lot of food. Nancy’s the coordinating chef for \u003ca href=\"http://www.mowsf.org/\">Meals on Wheels\u003c/a> and we usually do three or four auction items where people come to our house or on a boat. We usually raise about $100,000-$200,000.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about food-wise?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: Besides white truffles? (laughs). With sausage ingredients and spices, there is always something interesting to learn. For this cookbook, I learned a lot about spices. I’m really passionate about \u003ca href=\"http://moroccanfood.about.com/od/maindishes/r/ras_el_hanout_recipe.htm\">ras el hanout\u003c/a> [a Moroccan spice blend]. We have access to one that comes from Morocco via \u003ca href=\"http://www.pacgourmet.com/\">Pacific Gourmet\u003c/a>. You have to grind it yourself and there's something like 20 ingredients in it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve been lucky enough to have some of the best Iberian ham and prosciutto. At the book event lunch my wife did at \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com/\">Prospect\u003c/a> last Saturday, we did Rosa di Parma, ham, and a breadstick with prosciutto wrapped around it. Also there was escarole and beans with prosciutto. It was really over the top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s a guy in Iowa with \u003ca href=\"http://laquercia.us/\">La Quercia\u003c/a> who has access to the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamworth_%28pig%29\">Tamworth\u003c/a> breed of pig, one of the few pigs that’s known historically as a bacon pig. Tamworth is a leaner pig but with amazing flavor. He feeds some on acorn at the end. I know him personally. That’s all he talks about is his ham.\u003cbr>\n \u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nBay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: My mother is a negative mentor, which she hates for me to say. In the 1950s you had an entire cuisine by soup and my mother embraced that. There was Lipton onion soup meatloaf and casseroles with cream of mushroom soup. When I went to college, I asked my mom to send me her recipes. I looked at them and said “Nah.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My roommate had a \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/James-Beard/e/B000APEE8Y/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_1\">James Beard cookbook\u003c/a> that was falling apart and written for home cooks. I got a lot of use out of that one. Then my roommate my senior year got us a subscription to Gourmet. I went off to be a graduate student and the Time Life Foods of the World were around. I cooked through all 35 and learned a tremendous amount. Those books gave you the actual ingredients and let you go find it on your own. That was a great breakthrough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s so cliché but I learned a lot watching \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">Julia Child\u003c/a>: how to hold a knife, and to always tuck my finger. Even if I watch the old shows today, I still learn stuff. \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/jacquespepin/\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a> La Methode and La Technique taught me. Actual La Methode showed me how to turn a fridge into a sausage smoker. I still have the fridges. They are historical. My wife hates them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve been to Italy 30 times and whenever we travel with \u003ca href=\"http://www.faithwillinger.com/\">Faith Willinger\u003c/a>, it’s like you’re family. The Italian recipes I have are the best.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vikram_Vij\">Vikram Vij\u003c/a> is the best Indian restaurateur in North America. His wife is opening a branch in Seattle soon. Vij’s recipes and books are really spot on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: I credit a lot of my success more to relationships, and to treating people in a straightforward and fair way. My style tends to be blunt, where I’m not holding back and always putting my cards on the table. I still have relationships from the first sausage sale I made 30 years ago. That really builds a brand: when people know you care about your product and about who’s eating it. I’d like to think that comes through in the cookbooks as well. I’m trying to help people learn, which I suppose comes from my science and teaching background. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food/drink spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: We do most of our eating in Healdsburg on the weekend. Our favorite place is the \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmhouseinn.com/restaurant-0/\">Farmhouse\u003c/a>. The chef has become our friend and I think he is the best chef in the county. He usually takes January off and goes to Asia, which shows how serious he is.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.scopahealdsburg.com/\">Scopa\u003c/a> is another favorite from our friends Ari and Dawnelise. They also own \u003ca href=\"http://campo-fina.com/\">Campo Fina\u003c/a> right around the corner, which has a bocce court. We also go up to \u003ca href=\"http://www.diavolo.org/\">Diavolo\u003c/a> in Geyerserville.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We shop at Mexican markets like Lola’s. Some of them have taco stands in the back and they’re pretty good. I like to get Salvadorian food in Santa Rosa -- on Sebastopol Street. The trucks are parked in front of a restaurant and have a covered patio. There’s great tamales and if you spend $10 you’ve bought way too much food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Big John’s grocery store and Taylor’s Refresher are both great. My wife’s a huge supporter of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thegardener.com/pages.php?pageid=5\">The Gardener\u003c/a>. I like to say that she single-handedly keeps them in business. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you working on these days? What’s an average workday like? What’s it like writing a cookbook?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: My typical day starts around ten. Around four hours are taken up with email and Facebook. I will respond to messages, which are usually from some sort of media exposure or recipe questions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is my last book for sure. (Laughs.) \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Great-Meat-Cookbook-Everything/dp/0547241410/\">The Great Meat Cookbook\u003c/a> was a big book and involved a lot of research and work. It made a tremendous amount of sense to do books when I was in the sausage company and really helped the brand. Now, I don’t know how to measure the success. The actual writing is such a small part of it. There are sales and publicity efforts. I do strongly believe the best selling is done through word of mouth. That’s how I succeeded with sausage. That’s how it works with books. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Where I really do the best financially is working with food companies as a consultant. I did some Duroc ham and Vande Rose bacon recipes. I get a little royalty from those. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mary Ladd interviews Bruce Aidells, who remains a leading authority on meat and meat cookery. Aidells describes his work on his latest comprehensive cookbook, and where he likes to go eat in the Bay Area with his chef wife Nancy Oakes. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52361\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Aidells.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/Aidells.jpg\" alt=\"Bruce Aidells. Photo: Luca Trovato\" title=\"Bruce Aidells. Photo: Luca Trovato\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-52361\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bruce Aidells. Photo: Luca Trovato\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.aidells.com/our-way/aidells-story\">Bruce Aidells\u003c/a> deserves the title of “King of Meat” after years of crafting delectable meaty goods and founding an eponymous sausage company in 1983. Aidells is widely known as a prolific expert on everything related to sausages, meat, salumi, and charcuterie. His story has ties to the Bay Area, where he has lived for many years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The longtime success of Aidells sausages marked a huge shift leading up to the late 1970s, when Americans bought sausage as an occasional breakfast staple with little variety. Now you can find creative sausage links that show Aidells’ culinary craft: chicken apple, artichoke garlic, or even pineapple bacon fly off the shelves at Costco and grocery outlets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2002, Aidells left the sausage company to pursue recipe consulting and writing work. The Bay Area resident is an award-winning author and has a new hefty cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/book/9780547241418\">\u003cstrong>The Great Meat Cookbook: Everything you Need to Know to Buy and Cook Today's Meat\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, $40). Aidells ably breaks down meat cuts and labels, and gives budget-friendly advice on using under appreciated (and usually cheaper) parts. He told me that this may his last book; readers may hope not after diving into creative recipes that include lusty meatloaf, beer broth marinated hanger steak and braised Montana coffee-marinated bison short ribs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aidells got his start as the first chef and co-owner at the popular \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2006/12/24/caramel-cake-the-recipe/\">Poulet\u003c/a> restaurant in Berkeley in 1979 and is married to chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevardrestaurant.com/#info-chef\">Nancy Oakes\u003c/a> of Boulevard and Prospect fame. I caught up with Aidells after a recent book signing event in San Francisco.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nBay Area Bites: Your wife Nancy Oakes is a chef-restaurateur. How does that play out in your home kitchen? Who decides what to cook?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: I’m an ex-chef and she’s a current chef, so we’re not used to people telling us what to do. We do things our own way. Even how a piece of bread gets sliced is debated: I would cut it perpendicular and she’s going to cut on a bias. If we have company over, she’ll plan the meal and I’ll cook the meat. For Thanksgiving, she cooked and I determined when the turkey was done. I carved the turkey, which I do every year. Unfortunately, neither of us know how to cook for small groups so we make a lot of food. Nancy’s the coordinating chef for \u003ca href=\"http://www.mowsf.org/\">Meals on Wheels\u003c/a> and we usually do three or four auction items where people come to our house or on a boat. We usually raise about $100,000-$200,000.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you most passionate about food-wise?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: Besides white truffles? (laughs). With sausage ingredients and spices, there is always something interesting to learn. For this cookbook, I learned a lot about spices. I’m really passionate about \u003ca href=\"http://moroccanfood.about.com/od/maindishes/r/ras_el_hanout_recipe.htm\">ras el hanout\u003c/a> [a Moroccan spice blend]. We have access to one that comes from Morocco via \u003ca href=\"http://www.pacgourmet.com/\">Pacific Gourmet\u003c/a>. You have to grind it yourself and there's something like 20 ingredients in it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve been lucky enough to have some of the best Iberian ham and prosciutto. At the book event lunch my wife did at \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com/\">Prospect\u003c/a> last Saturday, we did Rosa di Parma, ham, and a breadstick with prosciutto wrapped around it. Also there was escarole and beans with prosciutto. It was really over the top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s a guy in Iowa with \u003ca href=\"http://laquercia.us/\">La Quercia\u003c/a> who has access to the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamworth_%28pig%29\">Tamworth\u003c/a> breed of pig, one of the few pigs that’s known historically as a bacon pig. Tamworth is a leaner pig but with amazing flavor. He feeds some on acorn at the end. I know him personally. That’s all he talks about is his ham.\u003cbr>\n \u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nBay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: My mother is a negative mentor, which she hates for me to say. In the 1950s you had an entire cuisine by soup and my mother embraced that. There was Lipton onion soup meatloaf and casseroles with cream of mushroom soup. When I went to college, I asked my mom to send me her recipes. I looked at them and said “Nah.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My roommate had a \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/James-Beard/e/B000APEE8Y/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_1\">James Beard cookbook\u003c/a> that was falling apart and written for home cooks. I got a lot of use out of that one. Then my roommate my senior year got us a subscription to Gourmet. I went off to be a graduate student and the Time Life Foods of the World were around. I cooked through all 35 and learned a tremendous amount. Those books gave you the actual ingredients and let you go find it on your own. That was a great breakthrough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s so cliché but I learned a lot watching \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">Julia Child\u003c/a>: how to hold a knife, and to always tuck my finger. Even if I watch the old shows today, I still learn stuff. \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/jacquespepin/\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a> La Methode and La Technique taught me. Actual La Methode showed me how to turn a fridge into a sausage smoker. I still have the fridges. They are historical. My wife hates them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve been to Italy 30 times and whenever we travel with \u003ca href=\"http://www.faithwillinger.com/\">Faith Willinger\u003c/a>, it’s like you’re family. The Italian recipes I have are the best.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vikram_Vij\">Vikram Vij\u003c/a> is the best Indian restaurateur in North America. His wife is opening a branch in Seattle soon. Vij’s recipes and books are really spot on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: I credit a lot of my success more to relationships, and to treating people in a straightforward and fair way. My style tends to be blunt, where I’m not holding back and always putting my cards on the table. I still have relationships from the first sausage sale I made 30 years ago. That really builds a brand: when people know you care about your product and about who’s eating it. I’d like to think that comes through in the cookbooks as well. I’m trying to help people learn, which I suppose comes from my science and teaching background. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food/drink spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: We do most of our eating in Healdsburg on the weekend. Our favorite place is the \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmhouseinn.com/restaurant-0/\">Farmhouse\u003c/a>. The chef has become our friend and I think he is the best chef in the county. He usually takes January off and goes to Asia, which shows how serious he is.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.scopahealdsburg.com/\">Scopa\u003c/a> is another favorite from our friends Ari and Dawnelise. They also own \u003ca href=\"http://campo-fina.com/\">Campo Fina\u003c/a> right around the corner, which has a bocce court. We also go up to \u003ca href=\"http://www.diavolo.org/\">Diavolo\u003c/a> in Geyerserville.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We shop at Mexican markets like Lola’s. Some of them have taco stands in the back and they’re pretty good. I like to get Salvadorian food in Santa Rosa -- on Sebastopol Street. The trucks are parked in front of a restaurant and have a covered patio. There’s great tamales and if you spend $10 you’ve bought way too much food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Big John’s grocery store and Taylor’s Refresher are both great. My wife’s a huge supporter of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thegardener.com/pages.php?pageid=5\">The Gardener\u003c/a>. I like to say that she single-handedly keeps them in business. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you working on these days? What’s an average workday like? What’s it like writing a cookbook?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAidells: My typical day starts around ten. Around four hours are taken up with email and Facebook. I will respond to messages, which are usually from some sort of media exposure or recipe questions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is my last book for sure. (Laughs.) \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Great-Meat-Cookbook-Everything/dp/0547241410/\">The Great Meat Cookbook\u003c/a> was a big book and involved a lot of research and work. It made a tremendous amount of sense to do books when I was in the sausage company and really helped the brand. Now, I don’t know how to measure the success. The actual writing is such a small part of it. There are sales and publicity efforts. I do strongly believe the best selling is done through word of mouth. That’s how I succeeded with sausage. That’s how it works with books. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Cooking Up Refinement with Jacques Pépin's New Complete Techniques",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Jacques-P%C3%A9pin-New-Complete-Techniques/dp/1579129110\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/JPbookcover400.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pepin Techniques book cover\" title=\"Jacques Pepin Techniques book cover\" width=\"400\" height=\"464\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-52300\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As an English major and culinary school grad, the idea of consommé both enchants and terrifies me. In stacks of novels, elegant ladies sup on consommé served in fragile bone china bowls before traipsing across polished floors to wilt onto fainting couches. And because the ideal consommé contains nothing other than exquisitely clear and sublimely seasoned liquid (possibly served with equally exquisite garnishes, like airy quenelles or tiny raviolini) it's basically the most refined soup ever. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's my romantic ideal of consommé. And it's one which jockeys impossibly with the complex reality handed to me in culinary school. There was so much emphasis on breaking (yet not breaking) the clarifying \"raft,\" the insistence on never allowing the stock to boil, and the overwhelming feeling that if you looked cross-eyed at your consommé you'd ruin it. As a result, during those nine sweaty months, I both longed for and dreaded making this genteel dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enter \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Jacques-P%C3%A9pin-New-Complete-Techniques/dp/1579129110\">\u003cem>Jacques Pépin Complete New Techniques\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, which, weighing in at close to six pounds, is a serious book for serious cooks. This hefty addition to my bookshelf (courtesy a review copy from my editor at KQED's Bay Area Bites) is Jacques' latest culinary tome. It's an updated version of his 2001 \u003cem>Complete Techniques\u003c/em>, which was itself a compilation of \u003cem>La Technique\u003c/em> (1976) and \u003cem>La Methode\u003c/em> (1979), and it's admittedly one that filled me with skepticism. Being more of a hands-on person when it comes to learning, I didn't think I could truly learn techniques from the pages of a book -- even one from a culinary master such as Jacques Pépin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The burnished amber liquid now resting in my refrigerator is proof that I am wrong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/consume500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/consume500.jpg\" alt=\"Consomme\" title=\"Consomme\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-52302\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First of all, the recipe and technique for consommé is found in the book's \"The Basics\" section, which gave me the extra fillip I needed to attempt it. Having it there was as if Jacques was telling me, \"See, it's basic, you can make the elegant soup of your literary dreams, Stephanie, I believe in you!\" Secondly, it really is a \"throw everything in the pot, stir, bring to a boil and wait\" sort of recipe, which was unexpected. It's true that dealing with the raft -- the flotsam that forms during the cooking process -- is slightly tricky, but not nearly as painstaking as I thought it would be, especially since you ladle all the consommé through a dampened cheese cloth-lined sieve for additional straining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As to how it tasted, well, it was delicate but not bland. Full of flavor, but not overpowering. It was all I dreamed of and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few notes: the recipe called for \"diced celery leaves,\" but not knowing how to dice leaves, I went for a rough chop. Also, in their efforts to be helpful, more and more grocery stores are selling their celery already topped (without the leaves) and giving us only the hearts. I scrounged up just enough for this recipe, but be forewarned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm was so bolstered by my consommé success that I actually considered diving into the book's Presentation section and flicking out a few consommé-worthy garnishes with my paring knife, like the fluted mushrooms or carrot butterflies. However, I controlled myself and moved on to another technique-driven recipe: scrambled eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/eggs500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/eggs500.jpg\" alt=\"Scrambled Eggs\" title=\"Scrambled Eggs\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-52303\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike my consommé foray, I know how to make scrambled eggs, and my usual way of making them is using a wooden spoon to scrape the beaten eggs and milk in a butter-slicked skillet over moderate heat. I will be honest and admit right off that I do like my way, which yields a significantly larger curd and a far less soft and creamy texture, but I still decided to try Jacques' essentially French method. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most surprising part of the technique was not using a whisk to keep the curd small, nor was it adding 1/4 cup raw beaten egg and the cream at the end, it was replacing my low-sided skillet with a saucepan. This has the effect of holding in the heat when the raw egg is added off the burner, which, in turn keeps the mixture creamy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between my creamy scrambled eggs with their sublimely small curd and pure consommé, tonight's dinner made me feel a bit like \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/season2_characters_mary.html\">Lady Mary Crawley\u003c/a>, eldest daughter of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/season2_characters_robert.html\">Earl of Grantham\u003c/a>. (Point of order: \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/season2_characters_patmore.html\">Mrs. Patmore\u003c/a> would never send scrambled eggs up to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/index.html\">Downton Abbey\u003c/a> dinner table, and consommé was only ever an early course, not one half of the main. Horrors!)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I quite like Jacques' technique of making scrambled eggs and can definitely see myself using it when I want a fancier breakfast, a soothing solitary dinner, or have a spare white truffle lying around. (No way I'd waste that sucker on \u003cem>my\u003c/em> version of scrambled eggs.) But I'll probably go back to breaking out my skillet and wooden spoon on the days I have my three-year-old tearing through the kitchen bellowing about trains and LEGO. That said, I'm making the consommé in bulk and freezing it for those emergency nights I need to dine like a Lady.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks, Jacques.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Jacques-P%C3%A9pin-New-Complete-Techniques/dp/1579129110\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/JPbookcover400.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pepin Techniques book cover\" title=\"Jacques Pepin Techniques book cover\" width=\"400\" height=\"464\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-52300\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As an English major and culinary school grad, the idea of consommé both enchants and terrifies me. In stacks of novels, elegant ladies sup on consommé served in fragile bone china bowls before traipsing across polished floors to wilt onto fainting couches. And because the ideal consommé contains nothing other than exquisitely clear and sublimely seasoned liquid (possibly served with equally exquisite garnishes, like airy quenelles or tiny raviolini) it's basically the most refined soup ever. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's my romantic ideal of consommé. And it's one which jockeys impossibly with the complex reality handed to me in culinary school. There was so much emphasis on breaking (yet not breaking) the clarifying \"raft,\" the insistence on never allowing the stock to boil, and the overwhelming feeling that if you looked cross-eyed at your consommé you'd ruin it. As a result, during those nine sweaty months, I both longed for and dreaded making this genteel dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enter \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Jacques-P%C3%A9pin-New-Complete-Techniques/dp/1579129110\">\u003cem>Jacques Pépin Complete New Techniques\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, which, weighing in at close to six pounds, is a serious book for serious cooks. This hefty addition to my bookshelf (courtesy a review copy from my editor at KQED's Bay Area Bites) is Jacques' latest culinary tome. It's an updated version of his 2001 \u003cem>Complete Techniques\u003c/em>, which was itself a compilation of \u003cem>La Technique\u003c/em> (1976) and \u003cem>La Methode\u003c/em> (1979), and it's admittedly one that filled me with skepticism. Being more of a hands-on person when it comes to learning, I didn't think I could truly learn techniques from the pages of a book -- even one from a culinary master such as Jacques Pépin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The burnished amber liquid now resting in my refrigerator is proof that I am wrong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/consume500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/consume500.jpg\" alt=\"Consomme\" title=\"Consomme\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-52302\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First of all, the recipe and technique for consommé is found in the book's \"The Basics\" section, which gave me the extra fillip I needed to attempt it. Having it there was as if Jacques was telling me, \"See, it's basic, you can make the elegant soup of your literary dreams, Stephanie, I believe in you!\" Secondly, it really is a \"throw everything in the pot, stir, bring to a boil and wait\" sort of recipe, which was unexpected. It's true that dealing with the raft -- the flotsam that forms during the cooking process -- is slightly tricky, but not nearly as painstaking as I thought it would be, especially since you ladle all the consommé through a dampened cheese cloth-lined sieve for additional straining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As to how it tasted, well, it was delicate but not bland. Full of flavor, but not overpowering. It was all I dreamed of and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few notes: the recipe called for \"diced celery leaves,\" but not knowing how to dice leaves, I went for a rough chop. Also, in their efforts to be helpful, more and more grocery stores are selling their celery already topped (without the leaves) and giving us only the hearts. I scrounged up just enough for this recipe, but be forewarned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm was so bolstered by my consommé success that I actually considered diving into the book's Presentation section and flicking out a few consommé-worthy garnishes with my paring knife, like the fluted mushrooms or carrot butterflies. However, I controlled myself and moved on to another technique-driven recipe: scrambled eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/eggs500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/eggs500.jpg\" alt=\"Scrambled Eggs\" title=\"Scrambled Eggs\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-52303\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike my consommé foray, I know how to make scrambled eggs, and my usual way of making them is using a wooden spoon to scrape the beaten eggs and milk in a butter-slicked skillet over moderate heat. I will be honest and admit right off that I do like my way, which yields a significantly larger curd and a far less soft and creamy texture, but I still decided to try Jacques' essentially French method. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most surprising part of the technique was not using a whisk to keep the curd small, nor was it adding 1/4 cup raw beaten egg and the cream at the end, it was replacing my low-sided skillet with a saucepan. This has the effect of holding in the heat when the raw egg is added off the burner, which, in turn keeps the mixture creamy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between my creamy scrambled eggs with their sublimely small curd and pure consommé, tonight's dinner made me feel a bit like \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/season2_characters_mary.html\">Lady Mary Crawley\u003c/a>, eldest daughter of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/season2_characters_robert.html\">Earl of Grantham\u003c/a>. (Point of order: \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/season2_characters_patmore.html\">Mrs. Patmore\u003c/a> would never send scrambled eggs up to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/index.html\">Downton Abbey\u003c/a> dinner table, and consommé was only ever an early course, not one half of the main. Horrors!)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I quite like Jacques' technique of making scrambled eggs and can definitely see myself using it when I want a fancier breakfast, a soothing solitary dinner, or have a spare white truffle lying around. (No way I'd waste that sucker on \u003cem>my\u003c/em> version of scrambled eggs.) But I'll probably go back to breaking out my skillet and wooden spoon on the days I have my three-year-old tearing through the kitchen bellowing about trains and LEGO. That said, I'm making the consommé in bulk and freezing it for those emergency nights I need to dine like a Lady.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks, Jacques.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Catherine McCord Dishes on Cooking with Kids",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51843\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/catherine-mccord700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/catherine-mccord700.jpg\" alt=\"Catherine McCord. Photo by Jonathan Gordon\" title=\"Catherine McCord. Photo by Jonathan Gordon\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51843\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Catherine McCord. Photo by Jonathan Gordon\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>New mom Catherine McCord didn't set out to become a food blogger. But after her son was born she had a hard time finding healthy homemade baby food recipes. So she started doing research and recipe testing and began posting her own creations on the web. Fast forward five years and McCord is the voice behind the popular site \u003ca href=\"http://weelicious.com/\">weelicious\u003c/a>, which focuses on family-friendly dishes that are quick and easy to prepare, nutritious, and packed with flavor too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Even though I'd been to culinary school, worked in restaurants in New York, and cooked for myself and friends from a young age, when I had my son I wasn't sure where to start,\" says the Institute of Culinary Education graduate who has a crew of in-home taste testers: son Kenya, 5, daughter Chloe, 3, and husband Jon. McCord, who recently taught a \"picky eater\" cooking class for Sur La Table in Palo Alto, plans on returning to the Bay Area in early 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McCord's food philosophy is simple: She favors recipes that use just a few wholesome, fresh ingredients and can appeal to a range of ages -- from toddlers to teenagers -- and adults as well. \"As a parent you don't have to be a short-order cook preparing four different meals for four different family members,\" says McCord, 39, who lives in Los Angeles and is the author of the new cookbook \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://weeliciousbook.com/about/\">Weelicious: One Family. One Meal.\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/weelcious-book-cover400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/weelcious-book-cover400.jpg\" alt=\"weelcious book cover\" title=\"weelcious book cover\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-51841\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McCord, a contributing editor at \u003cem>Parenting\u003c/em> magazine, advises that one of the best ways to raise an adventurous eater is to involve children in all aspects of the meal-making process. Go food shopping with your kids. Farmers' markets are a great place to take young ones to learn about smart food choices, she says, and there are plenty of healthy, free samples to savor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Talk with your children, McCord says, about what food you're buying: \"What should we do with this sweet potato? Could we mash it?\" And invite them into the kitchen to help. \"My son loves peeling bananas and pouring frozen fruit and rice milk into the blender to make his own smoothies,\" she says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The former model, actress, and athlete credits her own family background for her healthy attitude towards cooking and eating. She grew up in Louisville, Kentucky, where her mom taught her the importance of eating nourishing food for well being. \"I also learned from my grandparents about gardening, composting, and canning, and these are traditions I'm passing along to my own children,\" says McCord who also contributes to \u003ca href=\"http://www.babble.com/mom/top-100-food-mom-blogs-2011/top-100-food-mom-blog-weelicious/\">Babble\u003c/a>, which named her one of the top 100 food mom blogs of 2011.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there's one more: Eat together as a family. \"I know it's tough with everyone's hectic schedules but if your kids see you eating and enjoying broccoli, then there's a good chance they'll learn to like it too,\" she says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Case in point: McCord recounts a story from a frustrated mother whose daughter wouldn't eat much besides plain noodles with butter -- except for something she calls \"Nana juice\" -- a breakfast drink she makes with her grandmother that includes kale, fruit, and flax. A little girl who hates almost everything drinks raw green smoothies? \"The fact that that drink is her favorite breakfast tells me that kids take their cues about food from their family.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Catherine McCord shares her Quinoa Pudding recipe families can make together, below. Oh, and just a heads up: This is the sort of dish a toddler may enjoy but, in this writer's experience, it's also a hit with teens and makes a nice change from porridge for breakfast for any age.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51842\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/Banana-Quinoa.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/Banana-Quinoa.jpg\" alt=\"Banana Quinoa Pudding. Photo: Catherine McCord\" title=\"Banana Quinoa Pudding. Photo: Catherine McCord\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51842\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banana Quinoa Pudding. Photo: Catherine McCord\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Banana Quinoa Pudding\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This light, creamy concoction is a play on a rice pudding, with quinoa -- a grain-like seed rich in protein -- taking the place of rice. Makes a flavorful and filling after-school snack, dessert, or special breakfast treat. Can be served warm or cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Cook Time: 20 minutes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Total Time: 1 hours, 20 minutes *(One hour for chilling pudding)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Serves: 4-6\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 cup quinoa\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 14 oz can light coconut milk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup milk (2 percent fat or higher)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 ripe bananas, mashed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tablespoons honey\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon cinnamon\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Place the quinoa in a fine-mesh strainer and rinse with water.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Put quinoa, coconut milk and milk in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cover and simmer for 15 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Stir in the remaining ingredients and cook over medium heat for 4-5 minutes stirring continuously until thickened.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour into individual ramekins and chill for at least one hour.*\u003cbr>\n* The pudding can also be served warm.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kids Turn:\u003c/strong> There's lots of opportunity in this recipe for a child to lend a hand, says McCord. Young children can rinse quinoa in a strainer under running water, shake the coconut milk can (the fat and milk content sometimes separate on the shelf), and peel and mash bananas. Small children can also measure ingredients and pour them into the pot -- and can stir the saucepan while cooking, with adult supervision. Older elementary age children may be comfortable making the whole dish -- with some encouragement and under the watchful eye of a grown up. \"Cooking in the kitchen with your child is an opportunity to talk about where food comes from, what's in it, why it's good for you, and what happens when you add heat, spice, fat, or liquid,\" says McCord. \"It's also a chance to work in concepts like math, science, and geography. And it's fun to taste test together, admire the fruits of your combined labor, and eat them too.\"\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The blogger behind the popular family-friendly site weelicious, Catherine McCord, shares advice from her new book on cooking for -- and with -- children in a chat with Sarah Henry.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51843\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/catherine-mccord700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/catherine-mccord700.jpg\" alt=\"Catherine McCord. Photo by Jonathan Gordon\" title=\"Catherine McCord. Photo by Jonathan Gordon\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51843\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Catherine McCord. Photo by Jonathan Gordon\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>New mom Catherine McCord didn't set out to become a food blogger. But after her son was born she had a hard time finding healthy homemade baby food recipes. So she started doing research and recipe testing and began posting her own creations on the web. Fast forward five years and McCord is the voice behind the popular site \u003ca href=\"http://weelicious.com/\">weelicious\u003c/a>, which focuses on family-friendly dishes that are quick and easy to prepare, nutritious, and packed with flavor too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Even though I'd been to culinary school, worked in restaurants in New York, and cooked for myself and friends from a young age, when I had my son I wasn't sure where to start,\" says the Institute of Culinary Education graduate who has a crew of in-home taste testers: son Kenya, 5, daughter Chloe, 3, and husband Jon. McCord, who recently taught a \"picky eater\" cooking class for Sur La Table in Palo Alto, plans on returning to the Bay Area in early 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McCord's food philosophy is simple: She favors recipes that use just a few wholesome, fresh ingredients and can appeal to a range of ages -- from toddlers to teenagers -- and adults as well. \"As a parent you don't have to be a short-order cook preparing four different meals for four different family members,\" says McCord, 39, who lives in Los Angeles and is the author of the new cookbook \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://weeliciousbook.com/about/\">Weelicious: One Family. One Meal.\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/weelcious-book-cover400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/weelcious-book-cover400.jpg\" alt=\"weelcious book cover\" title=\"weelcious book cover\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-51841\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McCord, a contributing editor at \u003cem>Parenting\u003c/em> magazine, advises that one of the best ways to raise an adventurous eater is to involve children in all aspects of the meal-making process. Go food shopping with your kids. Farmers' markets are a great place to take young ones to learn about smart food choices, she says, and there are plenty of healthy, free samples to savor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Talk with your children, McCord says, about what food you're buying: \"What should we do with this sweet potato? Could we mash it?\" And invite them into the kitchen to help. \"My son loves peeling bananas and pouring frozen fruit and rice milk into the blender to make his own smoothies,\" she says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The former model, actress, and athlete credits her own family background for her healthy attitude towards cooking and eating. She grew up in Louisville, Kentucky, where her mom taught her the importance of eating nourishing food for well being. \"I also learned from my grandparents about gardening, composting, and canning, and these are traditions I'm passing along to my own children,\" says McCord who also contributes to \u003ca href=\"http://www.babble.com/mom/top-100-food-mom-blogs-2011/top-100-food-mom-blog-weelicious/\">Babble\u003c/a>, which named her one of the top 100 food mom blogs of 2011.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there's one more: Eat together as a family. \"I know it's tough with everyone's hectic schedules but if your kids see you eating and enjoying broccoli, then there's a good chance they'll learn to like it too,\" she says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Case in point: McCord recounts a story from a frustrated mother whose daughter wouldn't eat much besides plain noodles with butter -- except for something she calls \"Nana juice\" -- a breakfast drink she makes with her grandmother that includes kale, fruit, and flax. A little girl who hates almost everything drinks raw green smoothies? \"The fact that that drink is her favorite breakfast tells me that kids take their cues about food from their family.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Catherine McCord shares her Quinoa Pudding recipe families can make together, below. Oh, and just a heads up: This is the sort of dish a toddler may enjoy but, in this writer's experience, it's also a hit with teens and makes a nice change from porridge for breakfast for any age.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51842\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/Banana-Quinoa.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/Banana-Quinoa.jpg\" alt=\"Banana Quinoa Pudding. Photo: Catherine McCord\" title=\"Banana Quinoa Pudding. Photo: Catherine McCord\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51842\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banana Quinoa Pudding. Photo: Catherine McCord\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Banana Quinoa Pudding\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This light, creamy concoction is a play on a rice pudding, with quinoa -- a grain-like seed rich in protein -- taking the place of rice. Makes a flavorful and filling after-school snack, dessert, or special breakfast treat. Can be served warm or cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Cook Time: 20 minutes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Total Time: 1 hours, 20 minutes *(One hour for chilling pudding)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Serves: 4-6\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 cup quinoa\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 14 oz can light coconut milk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup milk (2 percent fat or higher)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 ripe bananas, mashed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tablespoons honey\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon cinnamon\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Place the quinoa in a fine-mesh strainer and rinse with water.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Put quinoa, coconut milk and milk in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cover and simmer for 15 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Stir in the remaining ingredients and cook over medium heat for 4-5 minutes stirring continuously until thickened.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour into individual ramekins and chill for at least one hour.*\u003cbr>\n* The pudding can also be served warm.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kids Turn:\u003c/strong> There's lots of opportunity in this recipe for a child to lend a hand, says McCord. Young children can rinse quinoa in a strainer under running water, shake the coconut milk can (the fat and milk content sometimes separate on the shelf), and peel and mash bananas. Small children can also measure ingredients and pour them into the pot -- and can stir the saucepan while cooking, with adult supervision. Older elementary age children may be comfortable making the whole dish -- with some encouragement and under the watchful eye of a grown up. \"Cooking in the kitchen with your child is an opportunity to talk about where food comes from, what's in it, why it's good for you, and what happens when you add heat, spice, fat, or liquid,\" says McCord. \"It's also a chance to work in concepts like math, science, and geography. And it's fun to taste test together, admire the fruits of your combined labor, and eat them too.\"\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Q&A with Pastry Chef and Chocolate Expert Yigit Pura",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51713\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_400Yigitc-Frankeny-Images.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_400Yigitc-Frankeny-Images.jpg\" alt=\"Yigit Pura. Photo courtesy of Frankeny Images.\" title=\"Yigit Pura. Photo courtesy of Frankeny Images.\" width=\"400\" height=\"537\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51713\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yigit Pura. Photo courtesy of Frankeny Images.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After winning the first season of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef-just-desserts/bio/yigit-pura\">Top Chef Desserts\u003c/a>, pastry dynamo Yigit Pura set his sights on opening his own \u003ca href=\"http://www.toutsweetsf.com/\">Tout Sweet Pâtisserie\u003c/a>. The sweet shop is full of treats from caramels, croissants, macarons (named after his favorite folks, including 7x7 editor Chloe Harris Frankeny), marshmallows, cakes and other confitures and marks a partnership with Taste Catering’s co-owners, MeMe Pederson and Janet Griggs. \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/YigitPura\">Pura\u003c/a> has a book in the works and was recently a spokesperson for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chocolateadventurecontest.com/Inspiration.aspx\">Chocolate Adventure Contest from Scharffen Berger®\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pura started making sweets as a tyke in Turkey, where he would spoon up dark caramel with his mother. By age 20, he was training in San Francisco and headed east for stints at Le Cirque 2000, The Four Seasons and Daniel. That led to a promotion as executive pastry chef for Daniel Boulud in Las Vegas, and he eventually returned to SF to work for \u003ca href=\"http://www.tastecatering.com/\">Taste Catering\u003c/a>. Bay Area Bites caught up with Pura recently and his comments have been edited for clarity and length. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did Tout Sweet Pâtisserie come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: It's been a twelve-year dream of mine. I've been really blessed to create something so wonderful in San Francisco, a city which I love. Though we opened two months ago, we are quickly growing and adding on different legs. We just started our celebration cakes and our wedding cakes, where I get to consult with people and create a one of a kind cake for each guest. This is truly a treat for a pastry chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: And your book?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: One would think I have ample free time... opening a store, writing a book. But this has been so much fun. It's titled \"Sweet Alchemy.\" I wanted to break down the barriers for intimidation which people have when it comes to making really special desserts and show people that they can create really wonderful desserts at home, given they can be patient, follow some simple science, and of course put lots of love in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: Farmers, because they remind me to be humble in what I do, and respect what nature gives us. Our clients at Tout Sweet, because their constant desire for a great product inspires me to create every day. Oh, and of course my dog Maui. He teaches me to do everything with love, every single day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best and worst things about being a chef and business owner?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: Ask any parent who just had their first child. Their answer will be the same as mine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You are relatively young yet appear to be a success. What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: Success. Hmmm. I think success is the process. I wouldn't ever want to consider myself successful, I think it's the drive to be never fully satisfied with everything I've created and gathered is what pushes me every day. But I can't lie, I do love seeing people’s faces as they get giddy with excitement when they look at the products in our store, and more so when they enjoy them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: \u003ca href=\"http://ericrestaurant.com/\">Eric's Chinese\u003c/a> is great. It's between my kitchen and my boyfriend’s house. Given my long hours it's a magical place. Other than that, I still love going to the Ferry Building on a Saturday before 8am, before the crowds get there, so I can buy produce for Tout Sweet, and enjoy a coffee and sausage sandwich by the bay. It's the small things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you think the U.S. is for appreciation of other cultures?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: I think the U.S. has done a great job at celebrating other cultures’ cuisines. Culinary options -- from Ethiopian to Korean to Indian -- are readily available in cities across the United States. Challenging yourself to try different cuisines is important. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Have you ever experienced discrimination in the kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: High-end, fine-dining kitchens tend to be really high-testosterone, macho working environments. As an openly gay chef, I had to work very hard to earn respect in New York kitchens early in my career. However, whether you are gay or straight, Muslim, Christian or Buddhist, people love food and I’ve found that is a great homogenizing point. People love desserts and it’s a great way to break the ice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51714\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_ScharffenBerger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_ScharffenBerger.jpg\" alt=\"Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides. Image courtesy of Scharffen Berger\" title=\"Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides. Image courtesy of Scharffen Berger\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51714\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides. Image courtesy of Scharffen Berger\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Tell us about the Chocolate Adventure Contest. There are ingredients that are definitely different -- any tips for diving in for consumers?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: The Chocolate Adventure Contest asks bakers of any skill level to create an original sandwich cookie recipe using at least one Scharffen Berger chocolate product and at least one of twelve predetermined “adventure ingredients.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to matters of being inspired, I always tell people go with your instinct. And if you find it's a horrible pairing, at least you now know better. Sometimes the best combinations come out of lucky mistakes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my \u003cstrong>Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides\u003c/strong> recipe I chose to pair two adventure ingredients: pasilla peppers and Scharffen Berger cocoa nibs, which give the chocolate a flirty and mature twist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipe created by Yigit Pura\u003cbr>\nMakes 25 Sandwich Cookies \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>INGREDIENTS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Ganache:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) heavy cream, plus more for reconstituting\u003cbr>\n3 cloves\u003cbr>\n2 cinnamon sticks\u003cbr>\n1 dried pasilla chili\u003cbr>\n1/2 vanilla bean\u003cbr>\n6.9 oz. Scharffen Berger® 62% Cacao Semisweet Chocolate\u003cbr>\n0.7 oz. (1 1/2 tbs.) honey\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) whole milk\u003cbr>\n1.6 oz. (3 tbs.) egg yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Mudslides:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n9 oz. Scharffen Berger® 62% Cacao semisweet chocolate\u003cbr>\n1.6 oz. (3 tbs.) unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n3 large eggs, at room temperature\u003cbr>\n7.5 oz. (scarce 1 cup) granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n0.15 oz. (scarce 1 tsp.) vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n2.1 oz. (1/4 cup) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n0.7 oz. (1 1/2 tbs.) baking powder\u003cbr>\n4 oz. Scharffen Berger® 62% Cacao semisweet baking chunks, chopped\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) dried cherries, chopped\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) Scharffen Berger® roasted cacao nibs \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Shortbread:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n11.8 oz. (1 1/2 cups) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n3.4 oz. (1/3 cup plus 1/2 tsp.)\u003cbr>\nScharffen Berger® Unsweetened Natural Cocoa Powder\u003cbr>\n1.8 oz. (1/4 cup) almond flour\u003cbr>\n0.1 oz. (2/3 tsp.) table salt\u003cbr>\n9 oz. (1 cup and 2 tbs.) unsalted butter at room temperature\u003cbr>\n5.5 oz. (2/3 cup) powdered sugar, sifted\u003cbr>\n2 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PROCESS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make The Ganache:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHeat cream in a small pan over medium heat. Add cloves, cinnamon sticks, chili and vanilla and let steep for 30 minutes. With a hand blender, buzz cream for a few seconds to fully bring out flavor. Strain and reconstitute with fresh cream to original 4.3 oz. to make up for loss in the infusing process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt chocolate over a water bath. Reheat infused cream with honey and milk. Temper yolks into hot cream mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened and coating the back of a spoon, or until 180° F (like crème anglaise). Once the custard is cooked, strain into a pitcher and add to melted chocolate in three additions, stirring with a spatula to emulsify. Cool ganache in a shallow dish, with plastic wrap directly on top, at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours until it’s the consistency of soft fudge. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make The Mudslides:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPreheat the oven at 325° F. Sift together all-purpose flour and baking powder. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt together chocolate and butter over a water bath and keep warm. In mixing bowl, combine eggs, sugar and vanilla extract and whisk to dissolve the sugar. Add melted chocolate and butter and mix to combine. Add sifted ingredients and stir gently to combine. Add chocolate chunks and dried tart cherries. Allow to set in the fridge for 30 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scoop onto baking trays and roll generously with the cacao nibs. Place on a cookie tray lined with parchment and bake until set, but still soft, about 6 minutes. Then rotate pan and bake 2 to 3 minutes longer. The cookies should still be soft to the touch and barely set. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make The Shortbread:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSift together all-purpose flour, cocoa powder, almond flour and salt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a mixing bowl fitted with the paddle attachment, cream butter and powdered sugar until smooth. Add eggs one at a time, incorporating fully each time. Add sifted ingredients and mix slowly until smooth. Wrap dough in plastic and chill for at least 1 hour or until firm enough to roll out. Roll dough evenly until it’s about 1/8-inch thick. Cut out small discs of dough, using a 1/2-inch wide round cookie cutter and bake until set around the edges for 7 to 9 minutes. Allow to cool at room temperature. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Assemble The Sandwiches:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPlace mudslides with the flat side up. Using a piping bag with a #3 plain round tip, pipe ganache drops on top of the cookie in an upward motion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lightly dust the chocolate shortbread tops with powdered sugar, and gently put “hats” on top of the ganache. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Mary Ladd interviews chef Yigit Pura, who shares what it's like to open a popular patisserie, write a cookbook and craft recipes. Pura is passionate about pastry and eager to get consumers interested in baking with unusual \"adventure\" ingredients. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51713\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_400Yigitc-Frankeny-Images.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_400Yigitc-Frankeny-Images.jpg\" alt=\"Yigit Pura. Photo courtesy of Frankeny Images.\" title=\"Yigit Pura. Photo courtesy of Frankeny Images.\" width=\"400\" height=\"537\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51713\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yigit Pura. Photo courtesy of Frankeny Images.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After winning the first season of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef-just-desserts/bio/yigit-pura\">Top Chef Desserts\u003c/a>, pastry dynamo Yigit Pura set his sights on opening his own \u003ca href=\"http://www.toutsweetsf.com/\">Tout Sweet Pâtisserie\u003c/a>. The sweet shop is full of treats from caramels, croissants, macarons (named after his favorite folks, including 7x7 editor Chloe Harris Frankeny), marshmallows, cakes and other confitures and marks a partnership with Taste Catering’s co-owners, MeMe Pederson and Janet Griggs. \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/YigitPura\">Pura\u003c/a> has a book in the works and was recently a spokesperson for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chocolateadventurecontest.com/Inspiration.aspx\">Chocolate Adventure Contest from Scharffen Berger®\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pura started making sweets as a tyke in Turkey, where he would spoon up dark caramel with his mother. By age 20, he was training in San Francisco and headed east for stints at Le Cirque 2000, The Four Seasons and Daniel. That led to a promotion as executive pastry chef for Daniel Boulud in Las Vegas, and he eventually returned to SF to work for \u003ca href=\"http://www.tastecatering.com/\">Taste Catering\u003c/a>. Bay Area Bites caught up with Pura recently and his comments have been edited for clarity and length. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did Tout Sweet Pâtisserie come about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: It's been a twelve-year dream of mine. I've been really blessed to create something so wonderful in San Francisco, a city which I love. Though we opened two months ago, we are quickly growing and adding on different legs. We just started our celebration cakes and our wedding cakes, where I get to consult with people and create a one of a kind cake for each guest. This is truly a treat for a pastry chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: And your book?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: One would think I have ample free time... opening a store, writing a book. But this has been so much fun. It's titled \"Sweet Alchemy.\" I wanted to break down the barriers for intimidation which people have when it comes to making really special desserts and show people that they can create really wonderful desserts at home, given they can be patient, follow some simple science, and of course put lots of love in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: Farmers, because they remind me to be humble in what I do, and respect what nature gives us. Our clients at Tout Sweet, because their constant desire for a great product inspires me to create every day. Oh, and of course my dog Maui. He teaches me to do everything with love, every single day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the best and worst things about being a chef and business owner?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: Ask any parent who just had their first child. Their answer will be the same as mine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You are relatively young yet appear to be a success. What are the lessons you’ve learned on the way?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: Success. Hmmm. I think success is the process. I wouldn't ever want to consider myself successful, I think it's the drive to be never fully satisfied with everything I've created and gathered is what pushes me every day. But I can't lie, I do love seeing people’s faces as they get giddy with excitement when they look at the products in our store, and more so when they enjoy them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any favorite Bay Area food spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: \u003ca href=\"http://ericrestaurant.com/\">Eric's Chinese\u003c/a> is great. It's between my kitchen and my boyfriend’s house. Given my long hours it's a magical place. Other than that, I still love going to the Ferry Building on a Saturday before 8am, before the crowds get there, so I can buy produce for Tout Sweet, and enjoy a coffee and sausage sandwich by the bay. It's the small things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you think the U.S. is for appreciation of other cultures?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: I think the U.S. has done a great job at celebrating other cultures’ cuisines. Culinary options -- from Ethiopian to Korean to Indian -- are readily available in cities across the United States. Challenging yourself to try different cuisines is important. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Have you ever experienced discrimination in the kitchen?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: High-end, fine-dining kitchens tend to be really high-testosterone, macho working environments. As an openly gay chef, I had to work very hard to earn respect in New York kitchens early in my career. However, whether you are gay or straight, Muslim, Christian or Buddhist, people love food and I’ve found that is a great homogenizing point. People love desserts and it’s a great way to break the ice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51714\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_ScharffenBerger.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/BAB_ScharffenBerger.jpg\" alt=\"Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides. Image courtesy of Scharffen Berger\" title=\"Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides. Image courtesy of Scharffen Berger\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51714\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides. Image courtesy of Scharffen Berger\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Tell us about the Chocolate Adventure Contest. There are ingredients that are definitely different -- any tips for diving in for consumers?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYigit Pura: The Chocolate Adventure Contest asks bakers of any skill level to create an original sandwich cookie recipe using at least one Scharffen Berger chocolate product and at least one of twelve predetermined “adventure ingredients.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to matters of being inspired, I always tell people go with your instinct. And if you find it's a horrible pairing, at least you now know better. Sometimes the best combinations come out of lucky mistakes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my \u003cstrong>Chloe’s Chili-infused Mudslides\u003c/strong> recipe I chose to pair two adventure ingredients: pasilla peppers and Scharffen Berger cocoa nibs, which give the chocolate a flirty and mature twist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipe created by Yigit Pura\u003cbr>\nMakes 25 Sandwich Cookies \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>INGREDIENTS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Ganache:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) heavy cream, plus more for reconstituting\u003cbr>\n3 cloves\u003cbr>\n2 cinnamon sticks\u003cbr>\n1 dried pasilla chili\u003cbr>\n1/2 vanilla bean\u003cbr>\n6.9 oz. Scharffen Berger® 62% Cacao Semisweet Chocolate\u003cbr>\n0.7 oz. (1 1/2 tbs.) honey\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) whole milk\u003cbr>\n1.6 oz. (3 tbs.) egg yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Mudslides:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n9 oz. Scharffen Berger® 62% Cacao semisweet chocolate\u003cbr>\n1.6 oz. (3 tbs.) unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n3 large eggs, at room temperature\u003cbr>\n7.5 oz. (scarce 1 cup) granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n0.15 oz. (scarce 1 tsp.) vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n2.1 oz. (1/4 cup) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n0.7 oz. (1 1/2 tbs.) baking powder\u003cbr>\n4 oz. Scharffen Berger® 62% Cacao semisweet baking chunks, chopped\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) dried cherries, chopped\u003cbr>\n4.3 oz. (1/2 cup) Scharffen Berger® roasted cacao nibs \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Shortbread:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n11.8 oz. (1 1/2 cups) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n3.4 oz. (1/3 cup plus 1/2 tsp.)\u003cbr>\nScharffen Berger® Unsweetened Natural Cocoa Powder\u003cbr>\n1.8 oz. (1/4 cup) almond flour\u003cbr>\n0.1 oz. (2/3 tsp.) table salt\u003cbr>\n9 oz. (1 cup and 2 tbs.) unsalted butter at room temperature\u003cbr>\n5.5 oz. (2/3 cup) powdered sugar, sifted\u003cbr>\n2 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PROCESS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make The Ganache:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHeat cream in a small pan over medium heat. Add cloves, cinnamon sticks, chili and vanilla and let steep for 30 minutes. With a hand blender, buzz cream for a few seconds to fully bring out flavor. Strain and reconstitute with fresh cream to original 4.3 oz. to make up for loss in the infusing process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt chocolate over a water bath. Reheat infused cream with honey and milk. Temper yolks into hot cream mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened and coating the back of a spoon, or until 180° F (like crème anglaise). Once the custard is cooked, strain into a pitcher and add to melted chocolate in three additions, stirring with a spatula to emulsify. Cool ganache in a shallow dish, with plastic wrap directly on top, at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours until it’s the consistency of soft fudge. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make The Mudslides:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPreheat the oven at 325° F. Sift together all-purpose flour and baking powder. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt together chocolate and butter over a water bath and keep warm. In mixing bowl, combine eggs, sugar and vanilla extract and whisk to dissolve the sugar. Add melted chocolate and butter and mix to combine. Add sifted ingredients and stir gently to combine. Add chocolate chunks and dried tart cherries. Allow to set in the fridge for 30 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scoop onto baking trays and roll generously with the cacao nibs. Place on a cookie tray lined with parchment and bake until set, but still soft, about 6 minutes. Then rotate pan and bake 2 to 3 minutes longer. The cookies should still be soft to the touch and barely set. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Make The Shortbread:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSift together all-purpose flour, cocoa powder, almond flour and salt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a mixing bowl fitted with the paddle attachment, cream butter and powdered sugar until smooth. Add eggs one at a time, incorporating fully each time. Add sifted ingredients and mix slowly until smooth. Wrap dough in plastic and chill for at least 1 hour or until firm enough to roll out. Roll dough evenly until it’s about 1/8-inch thick. Cut out small discs of dough, using a 1/2-inch wide round cookie cutter and bake until set around the edges for 7 to 9 minutes. Allow to cool at room temperature. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Assemble The Sandwiches:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPlace mudslides with the flat side up. Using a piping bag with a #3 plain round tip, pipe ganache drops on top of the cookie in an upward motion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"marketplace": {
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"politicalbreakdown": {
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"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"pri-the-world": {
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"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
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"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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"reveal": {
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"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
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},
"rightnowish": {
"id": "rightnowish",
"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"order": 16
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},
"science-friday": {
"id": "science-friday",
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"info": "Science Friday is a weekly science talk show, broadcast live over public radio stations nationwide. Each week, the show focuses on science topics that are in the news and tries to bring an educated, balanced discussion to bear on the scientific issues at hand. Panels of expert guests join host Ira Flatow, a veteran science journalist, to discuss science and to take questions from listeners during the call-in portion of the program.",
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"snap-judgment": {
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"title": "Snap Judgment",
"tagline": "Real stories with killer beats",
"info": "The Snap Judgment radio show and podcast mixes real stories with killer beats to produce cinematic, dramatic radio. Snap's musical brand of storytelling dares listeners to see the world through the eyes of another. This is storytelling... with a BEAT!! Snap first aired on public radio stations nationwide in July 2010. Today, Snap Judgment airs on over 450 public radio stations and is brought to the airwaves by KQED & PRX.",
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