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"title": "This Fall Marks the Return of the In-Person Food Festival",
"headTitle": "This Fall Marks the Return of the In-Person Food Festival | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/fallarts2022\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Find more of KQED’s picks for the best Fall 2022 events here\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the food enthusiast, fall in the Bay Area means bacon-wrapped hot dogs, pumpkin pie eating contests and ungodly quantities of garlic noodles scarfed out of a little paper tray. In other words, it’s peak food festival season—or at least it was until the past two years, when COVID safety concerns cancelled most of these gatherings outright and forced others to shrink themselves down into Zoom- and takeout-friendly form.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a sign of how far we’ve come, then, that most of the biggest and most beloved fall food festivals and other food-related events are back in full force—and fully in person—this year. Make no mistake: We’re still in a pandemic, and it’s important to be mindful of other festival-goers’ safety and comfort level. (Don’t let anyone shame you for wearing a mask!) But if you’ve been looking forward to standing in a line with a couple dozen other lumpia lovers or vegan ice cream aficionados, we’ve got some great options for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918351\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1951px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918351\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9.jpg\" alt=\"A big aluminum tray of Greek pastitsio, the top cooked to golden brown.\" width=\"1951\" height=\"1063\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9.jpg 1951w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-800x436.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-1020x556.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-160x87.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-768x418.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-1536x837.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-1920x1046.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1951px) 100vw, 1951px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Big trays of bubbling-hot, golden-brown pastitsio are one of the savory attractions at the annual Belmont Greek Festival. \u003ccite>(Emmy Denton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.belmontgreekfestival.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Belmont Greek Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Church of the Holy Cross, Belmont\u003cbr>\nSept. 3–4, noon–10pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michelin-starred restaurants are fine and all, but real connoisseurs of cuisine know that some of the most memorable eating happens not on white tablecloth but at the church (or mosque or temple) festival—the kind of paper-plate, bring-your-own-Tupperware affair where Uncle and Grandma trot out their most sacred family recipes. Hence the enduring popularity of the Belmont Greek Festival, which this year celebrates both its 50th anniversary and its first year back in person since the start of the pandemic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hosted by the Church of the Holy Cross, the fully volunteer-staffed festival is returning with a full slate of live music and traditional dancing (“\u003ca href=\"https://fb.watch/eXDNM67P4s/\">Opa!\u003c/a>”), but like any church festival worth its salt, food will be front and center—big, gut-busting plates of spanakopita, gyros and lasagna-like beef pastitsio, which visitors can enjoy on the church’s outdoor “platia,” made to resemble a bustling village square in Greece. Be sure to save room for dessert: It’d be a shame to leave without a taste of baklava or, the crowning glory of any big Greek celebration, the honey-drenched fried dough balls known as loukoumades. —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918354\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918354\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-scaled.jpg\" alt='A man and woman in face masks squirt sauce on a paper tray of fried cauliflower. Their shirts read \"Plant N Soul.\"' width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Plant N Soul staff squirt sauce onto fried cauliflower. The vegan pizza pop-up will be one of more than 50 vendors at this year’s Bizerkeley vegan food festival. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Bizerkeley Food Festival)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thebizerkeleyvegan.com/foodfest\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Bizerkeley Food Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>2727 Milvia Street, Berkeley\u003cbr>\nSept. 4, 11am–5pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Erika Hazel \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13915889/berkeley-vegan-food-festival-bizerkeley-vegan\">launched the Bizerkeley Food Festival\u003c/a>, she wanted to make people more aware of just how diverse the Bay Area’s vegan food scene is—it’s not just “rabbit food,” after all. This Labor Day weekend, she’s continuing that mission with an event that will feature over 50 vegan vendors—more than double its 2021 debut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The purpose of the Bizerkeley Food Festival is to promote and uplift small businesses, POC businesses and women-owned businesses that are 100% plant-based/vegan while raising necessary funds for the Berkeley municipal animal shelter,” Hazel says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The community-centered event has quickly become the premier vegan festival in the Bay. Held in the Sports Basement parking lot, this year’s edition will feature local favorites like \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916044/sucka-free-soul-the-vegan-hood-chefs-honor-southern-heritage-with-a-frisco-twist\">Vegan Hood Chefs\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kubenicecream/?hl=en\">Kubé Nice Cream\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"https://thebolditalic.com/this-woman-owned-business-is-introducing-organic-beverages-to-a-food-desert-in-richmond-7b8ce3d8243\">Liquified Juicery\u003c/a> serving a wide array of vegan treats—everything from jambalaya and barbecue sliders to full-fat coconut ice cream. All food and beverages will be sold a la carte. As Hazel notes, a portion of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/2022-bizerkeley-food-festival-tickets-323004123027\">ticket proceeds\u003c/a> will benefit the \u003ca href=\"https://friendsofbacs.org/\">Friends of Berkeley Animal Care Services\u003c/a>. —\u003cem>A.C.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900324\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900324\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Black and white author headshot for Bryant Terry, posing in sunglasses.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-2048x2048.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bryant Terry wants to provide mentorship opportunities for aspiring BIPOC food creatives. That’s the inspiration behind the Black Food Summit, which he’s organizing in collaboration with the Museum of the African Diaspora. \u003ccite>(Adrian Octavius Walker)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.moadsf.org/event/chef-in-residence-bryant-terry-presents-black-food-summit\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Black Food Summit\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Museum of the African Diaspora, San Francisco; TomKat Ranch, Pescadero\u003cbr>\nSept. 9–10\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Bryant Terry started 4 Color Books, his \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13900311/bryant-terry-four-color-books-imprint-food-media-diversity\">new imprint\u003c/a> that’s focused on BIPOC artists, writers and chefs, the Oakland-based chef and food activist wanted to help create an ecosystem in which Black and other BIPOC creatives would be able to thrive. Where were all of the talented Black cookbook authors, food stylists and food photographers, and why weren’t they landing the most coveted gigs from the prestige magazines and publishing houses? Were they getting the mentorship opportunities they needed?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now Terry is using his platform as \u003ca href=\"https://www.moadsf.org/\">MoAD’s\u003c/a> chef-in-residence to help grow that pipeline: In September, he’ll host a two-day \u003ca href=\"https://www.moadsf.org/event/chef-in-residence-bryant-terry-presents-black-food-summit\">Black Food Summit\u003c/a> that will inspire—and teach practical skills to—anyone looking to publish a cookbook or carve out a career in food media. The summit will function, among other things, as one of the food world’s most exciting gatherings of Black talent, with nationally prominent writers like \u003ca href=\"http://www.nicoleataylor.com/\">Nicole Taylor\u003c/a> (of the Juneteenth cookbook \u003cem>Watermelon & Red Birds\u003c/em>) and \u003ca href=\"https://osayiendolyn.com/\">Osayi Endolyn\u003c/a> (the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Food & Wine\u003c/em> and more) on hand for a full day of panel discussions on topics such as storytelling, design and how to navigate the publishing world. On the second day, the summit will move to Pescadero’s \u003ca href=\"https://tomkatranch.org/\">TomKat Ranch\u003c/a> for a day of restful rejuvenation and hands-on activities (some of which may involve horses).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It all culminates with a big, celebratory dinner out on the ranch, cooked by some of the Bay Area’s most accomplished chefs, including Matt Horn (Horn BBQ) and Fernay McPherson (Minnie Bells). Participants can buy a ticket for just one day or for the whole two-day summit. There’s also a livestream option for the Friday events at MoAD. —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918355\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2111px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918355\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of napa cabbage kimchi.\" width=\"2111\" height=\"1408\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189.jpg 2111w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-1920x1281.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2111px) 100vw, 2111px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This year’s Chuseok Festival will celebrate traditional Korean foods such as kimchi, but it’ll also offer a wide range of fusion and Korean American diasporic dishes. \u003ccite>(Mark Shigenaga)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/4th-annual-bay-area-chuseok-festival-tickets-355585554967\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Chuseok Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Presidio Main Parade Lawn, San Francisco\u003cbr>\nSept. 10, 11am–5pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ever since the event’s splashy 2019 debut, the organizers of the Bay Area Chuseok Festival have been chomping at the bit to bring the Korean harvest festival back to its in-person, deliciously food-focused glory after a couple of Zoom-centric editions during the peak of the pandemic. Eun-Joo Chang of San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"https://koreancentersf.org/\">Korean Center, Inc.\u003c/a>, which organizes the event, describes Chuseok as the Korean equivalent of Thanksgiving. Hosted at the Presidio, this year’s festival is expected to be bigger and better than ever—a larger outdoor space; more family-friendly entertainment, from K-pop to traditional crafts; and, of course, a whole host of food and beverage vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not all of the food will be strictly Korean, though most of the featured businesses have at least one Korean chef or co-owner. So, while there will be traditional items such as Korean barbecue and \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/drinks/2017/2/20/14645442/makgeolli-korean-rice-wine\">makgeolli\u003c/a>, there also might be bulgogi-topped pizza and Korean-Mexican fusion. Oakland’s Noodle Belly will be on hand serving its signature garlic noodles; SF-based Dokkabier will be on hand to pour its lineup of Asian-inspired microbrews.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who like to get their hands dirty, San Francisco’s Korean consulate and the Korean food conglomerate and kimchi brand Jong Ga Foods will co-host K-Food, an event-within-event happening at the same time. The centerpiece: a hands-on cooking demonstration in which participants make their own ssamjang, the spicy-sweet condiment traditionally eaten with Korean barbecue. —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918362\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1440px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918362\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq.jpg\" alt=\"Four oysters, elaborately topped with shrimp, cheese and spices, on a grill.\" width=\"1440\" height=\"1800\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq.jpg 1440w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-1229x1536.jpg 1229w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1440px) 100vw, 1440px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Saucey Oysters & BBQ specializes in elaborately topped grilled oysters. The Sacramento-based pop-up will be one of the 30-plus food vendors on hand at the California Soul Food Cookout. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Saucey Oysters & BBQ)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.californiasoulfoodcookoutandfestival.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">California Soul Food Cookout\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Alameda County Fairgrounds, Pleasanton\u003cbr>\nSept. 17–18, 1–11pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For concert goers who love soul food, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/calisoulfoodfest/?hl=en\">California Soul Food Cookout & Festival\u003c/a> promises the best of both worlds. Going on its 12th year, the two-day event features a mix of family activities, gospel music, R&B, food trucks and comedy—with a portion of the proceeds going towards Bay Area charities to aid houseless individuals and domestic violence victims.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the food side, the festival’s 2022 edition will be hosted by Chef Milly, known for his stints as a contestant on \u003cem>Hell’s Kitchen\u003c/em>—and for dishes like his signature Crabby Cheese Fries (topped with lump crab meat and Old Bay seasoning). Other vendors will include Hayward-based Filipino fusion pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mekeni_kapampangankami/\">Mekeni’s Kitchen\u003c/a>, Sacramento-based grilled oyster specialist \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sauceyoysters_bbq/?hl=en\">Saucey Oysters & BBQ\u003c/a> and the Filipino barbecue stand \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/gim.belly/?hl=en\">Gim Belly\u003c/a>. The 30-plus diverse, mostly POC food makers were chosen by the organizers to represent the Bay Area’s cultural vibrancy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you come to California Soul for the food, you’ll stay for the grooves: Musical headliners include gospel and R&B stars like Musiq Soulchild, Angie Stone, Mario Hodge and Fred Hammond. There will also be a job fair and career expo sponsored by the Oakland African American Chamber of Commerce and Silicon Valley Black Chamber of Commerce. —\u003cem>A.C.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918364\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918364\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes.jpg\" alt=\"A smiling woman shows off a dish of sautéed mushrooms.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2322\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-800x968.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-1020x1234.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-160x194.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-768x929.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-1270x1536.jpg 1270w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-1693x2048.jpg 1693w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">During her Shifting the Lens residency, Chef Shenarri Freeman will serve an elaborate tasting menu of vegan soul food dishes. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of J Vineyards & Winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.exploretock.com/jvineyardswinery/experience/340529/shifting-the-lens-chef-shenarri-freeman\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Shifting the Lens with Chef Shenarri Freeman\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>J Vineyards & Winery, Healdsburg\u003cbr>\nSept. 29–Oct. 9\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preeti Mistry was tired of hearing people say there wasn’t any point in pairing wine with Indian food—and that the richly spiced foods found throughout, say, South Asia, West Africa or the Caribbean were best just washed down with beer. So, the chef decided to change the conversation. \u003ca href=\"https://www.jwine.com/shifting-the-lens.html\">Shifting the Lens\u003c/a>, Mistry’s summer-long residency series J Winery in Healdsburg, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13917165/preeti-mistry-wants-to-show-that-wine-pairing-isnt-just-for-white-food\">reexamines wine pairing in the context of cuisines that are often excluded from the fine dining discourse\u003c/a> here in the United States: Chinese food, Indian food, soul food. Each residency features a talented BIPOC woman guest chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starting Sept. 29, Shifting the Lens will close out its first year with a residency by Shenarri “Greens” Freeman, a New York City-based wellness advocate and the chef of the vegan soul food restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/cadence.newyork/?hl=en\">Cadence\u003c/a>. Over the course of two weeks, Thursday to Sunday, guests can book a two-hour, five-plus-course, fully plant-based tasting menu ($200) that comes with a thoughtful wine pairing for each dish. For those who want a little extra face time with the chef, a special VIP dinner on Oct. 1 will include a Q&A session. —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918360\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918360\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs.jpg\" alt=\"A cup of halo halo, with layers of bright purple ube ice cream, flan and sweet beans.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1068\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs.jpg 1600w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-768x513.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Turontastic’s halo-halo, from last year’s edition of Undiscovered SF. \u003ccite>(Photography by Albert Law: www.porkbellystudio.com)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.undiscoveredsf.com/#tickets\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Undiscovered SF Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>SOMA Pilipinas, San Francisco\u003cbr>\nOct. 22, noon–6pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year, the Undiscovered SF Festival asks the age-old question: If San Francisco had its very own Filipino theme park, what would that look like? Would mobile DJ crews usher each visitor in through ube-purple turnstiles? Would there be a lumpia-themed rollercoaster or a karaoke-themed merry-go-round? Most importantly: What would there be to eat?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Undiscovered SF 2022 will offer visitors the opportunity to see one possible vision for such a theme park come to life—though rollercoaster enthusiasts might have to wait for a future edition. Though the event’s earliest incarnations were set up as a \u003ca href=\"https://digital.modernluxury.com/publication/?m=3609&i=453302&p=84&ver=html5\">Filipino night market\u003c/a>, during the pandemic Undiscovered SF evolved into a daytime event spread across multiple indoor and outdoor venues in the SOMA Pilipinas cultural district. This year’s version promises to be the largest one yet, with a rollicking main stage set up at \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/sf/article/S-F-s-newest-green-space-just-opened-in-SoMa-16969411.php\">Parks at 5M\u003c/a>, the neighborhood’s brand new outdoor park; a kaleidoscope of crafts and streetwear vendors; art exhibitions; and more than 20 food vendors (including local legends like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thelumpiacompany/\">Lumpia Company\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thesarapshop/\">Sarap Shop\u003c/a>). —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918350\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918350\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale.jpg\" alt=\"A marigold-covered altar for Día de los Muertos on a street corner in Fruitvale.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A marigold-covered altar for the ancestors at Oakland’s Día de los Muertos festival in Fruitvale. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of the Unity Council)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://diaoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Día de los Muertos Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Fruitvale District, Oakland\u003cbr>\nOct. 30, 10am–5pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can’t celebrate fall in the Bay Area without attending a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/diaoakland/?hl=en\">Día de los Muertos event\u003c/a>—and, if you’re around Oakland, there’s no better place to do it than in Fruitvale. The cultural gathering has become one of the highlights of October, signaling the peak of “spooky szn,” autumnal changes and, of course, festival goodies. Now in its 27th year, Fruitvale’s Día de los Muertos event will return fully in person this Oct. 30 with a day of Aztec dancing, altar exhibits, live music and a more-than-you-can-eat offering of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the \u003ca href=\"https://unitycouncil.org/program/diaoakland/\">Oakland Unity Council\u003c/a>, which organizes the event, “The festival will resume in-person activities, highlighting the ofrendas, Danza Azteca, and low-riders which are all vital elements of the celebration. Our goal for the 2022 festival is to create a physical space where people can safely gather and hone in art and culture as tools for community healing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a themed-focus on honoring essential workers, this year’s celebration is meant to express a strong sense of gratitude to the food workers, cooks and purveyors of Latinx-focused meals. For the first time since the start of the pandemic, the street vendors that the Día event is known for will be back in full force. From street-style elote dripping with sour cream, cheese and powdered chile, to classic Fruitvale staples like tacos, burritos and tortas, you can’t go wrong with a celebratory afternoon of comida in one of the Bay Area’s most vibrant communities. —\u003cem>A.C.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "’Tis the season for outdoor lumpia, loukoumades and garlic noodles, served in a paper tray.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/fallarts2022\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Find more of KQED’s picks for the best Fall 2022 events here\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the food enthusiast, fall in the Bay Area means bacon-wrapped hot dogs, pumpkin pie eating contests and ungodly quantities of garlic noodles scarfed out of a little paper tray. In other words, it’s peak food festival season—or at least it was until the past two years, when COVID safety concerns cancelled most of these gatherings outright and forced others to shrink themselves down into Zoom- and takeout-friendly form.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a sign of how far we’ve come, then, that most of the biggest and most beloved fall food festivals and other food-related events are back in full force—and fully in person—this year. Make no mistake: We’re still in a pandemic, and it’s important to be mindful of other festival-goers’ safety and comfort level. (Don’t let anyone shame you for wearing a mask!) But if you’ve been looking forward to standing in a line with a couple dozen other lumpia lovers or vegan ice cream aficionados, we’ve got some great options for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918351\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1951px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918351\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9.jpg\" alt=\"A big aluminum tray of Greek pastitsio, the top cooked to golden brown.\" width=\"1951\" height=\"1063\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9.jpg 1951w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-800x436.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-1020x556.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-160x87.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-768x418.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-1536x837.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-1920x1046.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1951px) 100vw, 1951px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Big trays of bubbling-hot, golden-brown pastitsio are one of the savory attractions at the annual Belmont Greek Festival. \u003ccite>(Emmy Denton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.belmontgreekfestival.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Belmont Greek Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Church of the Holy Cross, Belmont\u003cbr>\nSept. 3–4, noon–10pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michelin-starred restaurants are fine and all, but real connoisseurs of cuisine know that some of the most memorable eating happens not on white tablecloth but at the church (or mosque or temple) festival—the kind of paper-plate, bring-your-own-Tupperware affair where Uncle and Grandma trot out their most sacred family recipes. Hence the enduring popularity of the Belmont Greek Festival, which this year celebrates both its 50th anniversary and its first year back in person since the start of the pandemic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hosted by the Church of the Holy Cross, the fully volunteer-staffed festival is returning with a full slate of live music and traditional dancing (“\u003ca href=\"https://fb.watch/eXDNM67P4s/\">Opa!\u003c/a>”), but like any church festival worth its salt, food will be front and center—big, gut-busting plates of spanakopita, gyros and lasagna-like beef pastitsio, which visitors can enjoy on the church’s outdoor “platia,” made to resemble a bustling village square in Greece. Be sure to save room for dessert: It’d be a shame to leave without a taste of baklava or, the crowning glory of any big Greek celebration, the honey-drenched fried dough balls known as loukoumades. —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918354\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918354\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-scaled.jpg\" alt='A man and woman in face masks squirt sauce on a paper tray of fried cauliflower. Their shirts read \"Plant N Soul.\"' width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Plant N Soul staff squirt sauce onto fried cauliflower. The vegan pizza pop-up will be one of more than 50 vendors at this year’s Bizerkeley vegan food festival. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Bizerkeley Food Festival)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thebizerkeleyvegan.com/foodfest\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Bizerkeley Food Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>2727 Milvia Street, Berkeley\u003cbr>\nSept. 4, 11am–5pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Erika Hazel \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13915889/berkeley-vegan-food-festival-bizerkeley-vegan\">launched the Bizerkeley Food Festival\u003c/a>, she wanted to make people more aware of just how diverse the Bay Area’s vegan food scene is—it’s not just “rabbit food,” after all. This Labor Day weekend, she’s continuing that mission with an event that will feature over 50 vegan vendors—more than double its 2021 debut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The purpose of the Bizerkeley Food Festival is to promote and uplift small businesses, POC businesses and women-owned businesses that are 100% plant-based/vegan while raising necessary funds for the Berkeley municipal animal shelter,” Hazel says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The community-centered event has quickly become the premier vegan festival in the Bay. Held in the Sports Basement parking lot, this year’s edition will feature local favorites like \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916044/sucka-free-soul-the-vegan-hood-chefs-honor-southern-heritage-with-a-frisco-twist\">Vegan Hood Chefs\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kubenicecream/?hl=en\">Kubé Nice Cream\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"https://thebolditalic.com/this-woman-owned-business-is-introducing-organic-beverages-to-a-food-desert-in-richmond-7b8ce3d8243\">Liquified Juicery\u003c/a> serving a wide array of vegan treats—everything from jambalaya and barbecue sliders to full-fat coconut ice cream. All food and beverages will be sold a la carte. As Hazel notes, a portion of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/2022-bizerkeley-food-festival-tickets-323004123027\">ticket proceeds\u003c/a> will benefit the \u003ca href=\"https://friendsofbacs.org/\">Friends of Berkeley Animal Care Services\u003c/a>. —\u003cem>A.C.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900324\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900324\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Black and white author headshot for Bryant Terry, posing in sunglasses.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-2048x2048.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bryant Terry wants to provide mentorship opportunities for aspiring BIPOC food creatives. That’s the inspiration behind the Black Food Summit, which he’s organizing in collaboration with the Museum of the African Diaspora. \u003ccite>(Adrian Octavius Walker)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.moadsf.org/event/chef-in-residence-bryant-terry-presents-black-food-summit\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Black Food Summit\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Museum of the African Diaspora, San Francisco; TomKat Ranch, Pescadero\u003cbr>\nSept. 9–10\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Bryant Terry started 4 Color Books, his \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13900311/bryant-terry-four-color-books-imprint-food-media-diversity\">new imprint\u003c/a> that’s focused on BIPOC artists, writers and chefs, the Oakland-based chef and food activist wanted to help create an ecosystem in which Black and other BIPOC creatives would be able to thrive. Where were all of the talented Black cookbook authors, food stylists and food photographers, and why weren’t they landing the most coveted gigs from the prestige magazines and publishing houses? Were they getting the mentorship opportunities they needed?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now Terry is using his platform as \u003ca href=\"https://www.moadsf.org/\">MoAD’s\u003c/a> chef-in-residence to help grow that pipeline: In September, he’ll host a two-day \u003ca href=\"https://www.moadsf.org/event/chef-in-residence-bryant-terry-presents-black-food-summit\">Black Food Summit\u003c/a> that will inspire—and teach practical skills to—anyone looking to publish a cookbook or carve out a career in food media. The summit will function, among other things, as one of the food world’s most exciting gatherings of Black talent, with nationally prominent writers like \u003ca href=\"http://www.nicoleataylor.com/\">Nicole Taylor\u003c/a> (of the Juneteenth cookbook \u003cem>Watermelon & Red Birds\u003c/em>) and \u003ca href=\"https://osayiendolyn.com/\">Osayi Endolyn\u003c/a> (the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Food & Wine\u003c/em> and more) on hand for a full day of panel discussions on topics such as storytelling, design and how to navigate the publishing world. On the second day, the summit will move to Pescadero’s \u003ca href=\"https://tomkatranch.org/\">TomKat Ranch\u003c/a> for a day of restful rejuvenation and hands-on activities (some of which may involve horses).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It all culminates with a big, celebratory dinner out on the ranch, cooked by some of the Bay Area’s most accomplished chefs, including Matt Horn (Horn BBQ) and Fernay McPherson (Minnie Bells). Participants can buy a ticket for just one day or for the whole two-day summit. There’s also a livestream option for the Friday events at MoAD. —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918355\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2111px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918355\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of napa cabbage kimchi.\" width=\"2111\" height=\"1408\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189.jpg 2111w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-1920x1281.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2111px) 100vw, 2111px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This year’s Chuseok Festival will celebrate traditional Korean foods such as kimchi, but it’ll also offer a wide range of fusion and Korean American diasporic dishes. \u003ccite>(Mark Shigenaga)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/4th-annual-bay-area-chuseok-festival-tickets-355585554967\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Chuseok Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Presidio Main Parade Lawn, San Francisco\u003cbr>\nSept. 10, 11am–5pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ever since the event’s splashy 2019 debut, the organizers of the Bay Area Chuseok Festival have been chomping at the bit to bring the Korean harvest festival back to its in-person, deliciously food-focused glory after a couple of Zoom-centric editions during the peak of the pandemic. Eun-Joo Chang of San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"https://koreancentersf.org/\">Korean Center, Inc.\u003c/a>, which organizes the event, describes Chuseok as the Korean equivalent of Thanksgiving. Hosted at the Presidio, this year’s festival is expected to be bigger and better than ever—a larger outdoor space; more family-friendly entertainment, from K-pop to traditional crafts; and, of course, a whole host of food and beverage vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not all of the food will be strictly Korean, though most of the featured businesses have at least one Korean chef or co-owner. So, while there will be traditional items such as Korean barbecue and \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/drinks/2017/2/20/14645442/makgeolli-korean-rice-wine\">makgeolli\u003c/a>, there also might be bulgogi-topped pizza and Korean-Mexican fusion. Oakland’s Noodle Belly will be on hand serving its signature garlic noodles; SF-based Dokkabier will be on hand to pour its lineup of Asian-inspired microbrews.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who like to get their hands dirty, San Francisco’s Korean consulate and the Korean food conglomerate and kimchi brand Jong Ga Foods will co-host K-Food, an event-within-event happening at the same time. The centerpiece: a hands-on cooking demonstration in which participants make their own ssamjang, the spicy-sweet condiment traditionally eaten with Korean barbecue. —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918362\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1440px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918362\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq.jpg\" alt=\"Four oysters, elaborately topped with shrimp, cheese and spices, on a grill.\" width=\"1440\" height=\"1800\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq.jpg 1440w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-1229x1536.jpg 1229w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1440px) 100vw, 1440px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Saucey Oysters & BBQ specializes in elaborately topped grilled oysters. The Sacramento-based pop-up will be one of the 30-plus food vendors on hand at the California Soul Food Cookout. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Saucey Oysters & BBQ)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.californiasoulfoodcookoutandfestival.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">California Soul Food Cookout\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Alameda County Fairgrounds, Pleasanton\u003cbr>\nSept. 17–18, 1–11pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For concert goers who love soul food, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/calisoulfoodfest/?hl=en\">California Soul Food Cookout & Festival\u003c/a> promises the best of both worlds. Going on its 12th year, the two-day event features a mix of family activities, gospel music, R&B, food trucks and comedy—with a portion of the proceeds going towards Bay Area charities to aid houseless individuals and domestic violence victims.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the food side, the festival’s 2022 edition will be hosted by Chef Milly, known for his stints as a contestant on \u003cem>Hell’s Kitchen\u003c/em>—and for dishes like his signature Crabby Cheese Fries (topped with lump crab meat and Old Bay seasoning). Other vendors will include Hayward-based Filipino fusion pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mekeni_kapampangankami/\">Mekeni’s Kitchen\u003c/a>, Sacramento-based grilled oyster specialist \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sauceyoysters_bbq/?hl=en\">Saucey Oysters & BBQ\u003c/a> and the Filipino barbecue stand \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/gim.belly/?hl=en\">Gim Belly\u003c/a>. The 30-plus diverse, mostly POC food makers were chosen by the organizers to represent the Bay Area’s cultural vibrancy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you come to California Soul for the food, you’ll stay for the grooves: Musical headliners include gospel and R&B stars like Musiq Soulchild, Angie Stone, Mario Hodge and Fred Hammond. There will also be a job fair and career expo sponsored by the Oakland African American Chamber of Commerce and Silicon Valley Black Chamber of Commerce. —\u003cem>A.C.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918364\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918364\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes.jpg\" alt=\"A smiling woman shows off a dish of sautéed mushrooms.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2322\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-800x968.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-1020x1234.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-160x194.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-768x929.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-1270x1536.jpg 1270w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-1693x2048.jpg 1693w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">During her Shifting the Lens residency, Chef Shenarri Freeman will serve an elaborate tasting menu of vegan soul food dishes. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of J Vineyards & Winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.exploretock.com/jvineyardswinery/experience/340529/shifting-the-lens-chef-shenarri-freeman\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Shifting the Lens with Chef Shenarri Freeman\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>J Vineyards & Winery, Healdsburg\u003cbr>\nSept. 29–Oct. 9\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preeti Mistry was tired of hearing people say there wasn’t any point in pairing wine with Indian food—and that the richly spiced foods found throughout, say, South Asia, West Africa or the Caribbean were best just washed down with beer. So, the chef decided to change the conversation. \u003ca href=\"https://www.jwine.com/shifting-the-lens.html\">Shifting the Lens\u003c/a>, Mistry’s summer-long residency series J Winery in Healdsburg, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13917165/preeti-mistry-wants-to-show-that-wine-pairing-isnt-just-for-white-food\">reexamines wine pairing in the context of cuisines that are often excluded from the fine dining discourse\u003c/a> here in the United States: Chinese food, Indian food, soul food. Each residency features a talented BIPOC woman guest chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starting Sept. 29, Shifting the Lens will close out its first year with a residency by Shenarri “Greens” Freeman, a New York City-based wellness advocate and the chef of the vegan soul food restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/cadence.newyork/?hl=en\">Cadence\u003c/a>. Over the course of two weeks, Thursday to Sunday, guests can book a two-hour, five-plus-course, fully plant-based tasting menu ($200) that comes with a thoughtful wine pairing for each dish. For those who want a little extra face time with the chef, a special VIP dinner on Oct. 1 will include a Q&A session. —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918360\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918360\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs.jpg\" alt=\"A cup of halo halo, with layers of bright purple ube ice cream, flan and sweet beans.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1068\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs.jpg 1600w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-768x513.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Turontastic’s halo-halo, from last year’s edition of Undiscovered SF. \u003ccite>(Photography by Albert Law: www.porkbellystudio.com)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.undiscoveredsf.com/#tickets\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Undiscovered SF Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>SOMA Pilipinas, San Francisco\u003cbr>\nOct. 22, noon–6pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year, the Undiscovered SF Festival asks the age-old question: If San Francisco had its very own Filipino theme park, what would that look like? Would mobile DJ crews usher each visitor in through ube-purple turnstiles? Would there be a lumpia-themed rollercoaster or a karaoke-themed merry-go-round? Most importantly: What would there be to eat?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Undiscovered SF 2022 will offer visitors the opportunity to see one possible vision for such a theme park come to life—though rollercoaster enthusiasts might have to wait for a future edition. Though the event’s earliest incarnations were set up as a \u003ca href=\"https://digital.modernluxury.com/publication/?m=3609&i=453302&p=84&ver=html5\">Filipino night market\u003c/a>, during the pandemic Undiscovered SF evolved into a daytime event spread across multiple indoor and outdoor venues in the SOMA Pilipinas cultural district. This year’s version promises to be the largest one yet, with a rollicking main stage set up at \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/sf/article/S-F-s-newest-green-space-just-opened-in-SoMa-16969411.php\">Parks at 5M\u003c/a>, the neighborhood’s brand new outdoor park; a kaleidoscope of crafts and streetwear vendors; art exhibitions; and more than 20 food vendors (including local legends like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thelumpiacompany/\">Lumpia Company\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thesarapshop/\">Sarap Shop\u003c/a>). —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918350\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918350\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale.jpg\" alt=\"A marigold-covered altar for Día de los Muertos on a street corner in Fruitvale.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A marigold-covered altar for the ancestors at Oakland’s Día de los Muertos festival in Fruitvale. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of the Unity Council)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://diaoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Día de los Muertos Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Fruitvale District, Oakland\u003cbr>\nOct. 30, 10am–5pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can’t celebrate fall in the Bay Area without attending a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/diaoakland/?hl=en\">Día de los Muertos event\u003c/a>—and, if you’re around Oakland, there’s no better place to do it than in Fruitvale. The cultural gathering has become one of the highlights of October, signaling the peak of “spooky szn,” autumnal changes and, of course, festival goodies. Now in its 27th year, Fruitvale’s Día de los Muertos event will return fully in person this Oct. 30 with a day of Aztec dancing, altar exhibits, live music and a more-than-you-can-eat offering of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the \u003ca href=\"https://unitycouncil.org/program/diaoakland/\">Oakland Unity Council\u003c/a>, which organizes the event, “The festival will resume in-person activities, highlighting the ofrendas, Danza Azteca, and low-riders which are all vital elements of the celebration. Our goal for the 2022 festival is to create a physical space where people can safely gather and hone in art and culture as tools for community healing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a themed-focus on honoring essential workers, this year’s celebration is meant to express a strong sense of gratitude to the food workers, cooks and purveyors of Latinx-focused meals. For the first time since the start of the pandemic, the street vendors that the Día event is known for will be back in full force. From street-style elote dripping with sour cream, cheese and powdered chile, to classic Fruitvale staples like tacos, burritos and tortas, you can’t go wrong with a celebratory afternoon of comida in one of the Bay Area’s most vibrant communities. —\u003cem>A.C.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Rice-Inspired Art Show Ditches the Term 'Middle Eastern'",
"headTitle": "Rice-Inspired Art Show Ditches the Term ‘Middle Eastern’ | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Biryani, pilaf and polo are a few of the many iterations of intricately seasoned and adorned rice dishes found across the South, Southwest Asia and North Africa (SSWANA) region. They’re also the inspiration for \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgc1yUnv1Z0/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jeweled Rice\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a temporary gallery and food pop-up series in Oakland. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Everyone in the region has their own version of it,” curator \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.jasminedjavahery.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jasmine Djavahery\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> explains. “We all have some beautiful, colorful rice dish that’s a melange of sweet, savory, sour flavors that seem, perhaps from afar, that they wouldn’t work. But they blend perfectly together.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Djavahery began identifying as SSWANA—rather than “Middle Eastern”—while studying art and ethnic studies at UC Santa Cruz. “It’s so specific to the West,” they say about the term “Middle East.” “It does not encompass the actual region.” Whereas “Middle East” serves the political and economic interests of colonial powers, “SSWANA” reprioritizes the peoples of the region.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Djavahery moved to the East Bay after graduation to take part in the region’s thriving arts and cultural scenes. Through the Center for Iranian Diaspora Studies at San Francisco State University, they hosted \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://anchor.fm/del-beh-del?utm_source=Center+for+Iranian+Diaspora+Studies\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Del beh Del\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a podcast spotlighting progressive conversations in the global Iranian community. “It solidified my desire and need to create spaces that I wasn’t finding in the Persian community,” Djavahery reflects. “I also felt like I needed to build my own community and knowledge of the SSWANA community.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918027\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2016px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918027\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery.jpg\" alt=\"Framed art displayed on a white wall in a gallery.\" width=\"2016\" height=\"1512\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery.jpg 2016w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2016px) 100vw, 2016px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Each piece of art offers a glimpse into the kaleidoscope that makes up the SSWANA diaspora. \u003ccite>(Jasmine Djavahery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The relationships Djavahery built with other SSWANA creatives and community organizers culminated in Jeweled Rice\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgc1yUnv1Z0/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> a show housed at North Oakland’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/crisisclubgallery/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Crisis Club Gallery\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> through September. The show features a multi-medium art gallery and food pop-ups, offering a glimpse into the kaleidoscope that makes up the SSWANA diaspora.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Traditional museums and academia often rely on the myth of objective third parties when documenting the experiences of people and their cultures. Jeweled Rice subverts the Western gaze by offering a space for individuals to speak for themselves through paintings, prints, zines and sculptures, as well as food.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In one piece, delicate \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">glasswork triangulates onlookers between the Midwest, Oakland and Syria. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A nearby lithograph etches its subject into a cathartic embrace with an onion, surrounded by a halo of suspended knives. Another print integrates dirt and nigella seeds—typically a garnish for breads like pide and borek—to depict delicate buttercup figurations.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918033\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918033\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Sculpture of a seated woman with her eyes closed.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The show subverts the Western gaze by offering a space for individuals to speak for themselves. \u003ccite>(Jacquelyn Tran)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“You don’t need Persian motifs to be Persian art,” Djavahery asserts. “I wanted to make sure that you felt like you didn’t have to have a typical pomegranate. Everyone’s interpretation of culture is specific to them.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bay Area SSWANA artists featured in the show include Amal Amer, Deena Hasheem, Degne Beyce, Donna Arkee, Jasmine Djavahery, Lina Celik, Mila Moldenhawer, Najah Alboushi, Rami KD, Sanaa Scherezade Khan, Yasmeen Abedifard and Zahra Hooshyar.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Jasmine Djavahery\"]“You don’t need Persian motifs to be Persian art… Everyone’s interpretation of culture is specific to them.”[/pullquote]Apart from the art, the gallery is complemented by a rotating orbit of food offerings. “Art galleries can be very exclusive and uninviting because of how they’re painted, or because of the people we think go to these spaces,” Djavahery says. “Food is an easy way to invite people in.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The chefs that Djavahery gathered for these pop-ups come from a new generation of food bloggers focused on embodying their identities. Many of these cooks noted that food is art. Through their writing and cooking, they materialize homeland heartaches, meditate on culture and cultivate community. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918030\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918030\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski.jpg\" alt=\"A spread of bread, olives, raw vegetable, and dips.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1536\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-800x640.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-160x128.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-768x614.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-1536x1229.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A spread of vegan snacks from the Palestinian pop-up Mishmish includes zaatar-topped manoushe and cashew-based labneh. \u003ccite>(Dana Plucinski)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I had never seen Persian cuisine in this way,” Djavahery gushes, “I’ve been fascinated by this new generation of younger chefs taking control and agency of the foods they grew up with and presenting it to the social media sphere.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Helia Sadeghi of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bigdillkitchen/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Big Dill Kitchen\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> came to the U.S. as a refugee at 17. Cooking became a way for them to process trauma, loneliness and homesickness for their hometown of Isfahan, Iran. They began Big Dill Kitchen as a cooking blog, which blossomed into a platform—and a pop-up concept—where they could use food as an expression of their identity as a queer Iranian refugee living in diaspora.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The indie, DIY setting of these pop-ups gave Sadeghi the freedom to depart from the limited American understandings of “Middle Eastern” foods—there is so much more than kabobs, falafel, shawarma and saffron rice.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At their Jeweled Rice pop-up last weekend, Sadeghi offered \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/ChdhFgHp78Z/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">panir sabzi focaccia\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgmhq2dLpn-/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">carrot jam\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CdMKADDPpVq/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">rose chocolate chip cookies\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and a rose chia refresher. Sadeghi’s iteration of the focaccia art trend adorned the leavened bread with ingredients usually found in a Persian panir sabzi platter. The carrot jam—Sadeghi’s favorite—starred beautifully candied carrots finished with romantic flavors of orange peels and rose. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I am a queer person from the SSWANA community. Just being a SSWANA person living in diaspora is an ongoing existential crisis,” Sadeghi adds with a laugh. “I feel so disconnected—and I know this is a mutual feeling from other folks living in the diaspora—from parts of yourself, parts of your identity. It’s hard to express that or talk about it. It’s amazing to see it come together, and see a community being built around art and food.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918031\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918031\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia.jpg\" alt=\"Squares of tomato and herb-topped focaccia on a cooling rack.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1935\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-800x806.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-1020x1028.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-160x161.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-768x774.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-1524x1536.jpg 1524w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Big Dill Kitchen’s beautifully adorned focaccia is inspired by a traditional Iranian dish. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Big Dill Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Michelle Nazzal began her pop-up \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.mishmishsouq.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mishmish\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (“apricot” in Arabic) to preserve her grandmother’s Palestininan recipes and practice of community care through food. “The way I view the food I make is that I want people to feel comfort and community. I want them to feel nourished and cared for,” she explains. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At her upcoming Jeweled Rice appearance, Nazzal will serve a menu of vegan Palestinian snacks as a way to replicate these comforting sentiments. Nazzal sources hard-to-acquire Palestinian zaatar for her manoushe, yielding a tangy flatbread. She’ll sell vegan labneh, made with cashew in place of yogurt. “I went vegan seven years ago, and labneh was the hardest thing for me to give up. It was important to me to figure out how to make it vegan,” explains Nazzal of her most popular dish. A traditional cardamom mint tea will also be available. (\u003cem>Update: Originally slated for Fri., Aug. 26, Mishmish’s pop-up will be rescheduled for a September date.\u003c/em>)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13911528,arts_13904913,arts_13903133']On Sunday, Aug. 28, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bademjoonam/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bademjoonam\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (a pun on bademjan, Farsi for “eggplant,” and joonam, a term of endearment) will serve Iranian-inspired sweets and refreshing sharbat, a drink that combines rooibos tea with basil seeds and floral accents. Sweets will include sholeh zard, a rice pudding infused with saffron, rose water and cardamom, as well as matcha cardamom cookies. For the cook, Sheila, the sholeh zard is a labor of love, requiring time spent carefully cooking rice while preparing the spices by hand. The pudding is adorned with a unique “one-of-one” design composed of cinnamon and pistachios that Sheila has prepared with her mother since childhood.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Earlier food businesses featured at the Jeweled Rice show include \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tanoorpopup/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tanoor\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a chai-focused Yemeni pop-up, and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/shikamu_/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Shikamu\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, an Iranian pop-up.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Museums and art galleries continue to diversify their programming after the 2020 protests, frantically attempting to correct archaic practices. But who gets to curate these spaces? Who determines which voices are worthy of satisfying haphazard institutional diversity quotas? And should we only look at these spaces?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I saw the limitations of the art world and of representation,” reflects Djavahery of their experience practicing and studying art. “I rarely see SSWANA art in museums. And if there is art, it’s usually not contemporary, or it’s limited to Islamic art. It’s usually just a couple people. In bigger gallery spaces, I don’t see representation of SSWANA art. And in the East Bay, I think some of these galleries are inaccessible to those who don’t know the right people or those who are less familiar with the ‘higher arts scene.’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jeweled Rice offers an alternative with its community-centered approach to arts curation. For the cooks and artists in the show, Jeweled Rice is one more step toward expressing the full constellation of the Bay Area’s SSWANA diaspora.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jeweled Rice is displayed at Crisis Club Gallery (5887 San Pablo Ave., Oakland) through Sept. 25. The gallery is open Friday to Sunday from 2–7pm. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bademjoonam/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bademjoonam\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> will pop up on Sunday, Aug. 28, 3–7pm. \u003ca href=\"https://www.mishmishsouq.com/\">Mishmish’s\u003c/a> rescheduled pop-up will occur in September. Additional pop-ups will be announced on \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kabobkidcrafts/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">@KabobKidCrafts\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Entry is free.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "‘Jeweled Rice’ brings food pop-ups and art inspired by the SSWANA diaspora to a North Oakland gallery.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Biryani, pilaf and polo are a few of the many iterations of intricately seasoned and adorned rice dishes found across the South, Southwest Asia and North Africa (SSWANA) region. They’re also the inspiration for \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgc1yUnv1Z0/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jeweled Rice\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a temporary gallery and food pop-up series in Oakland. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Everyone in the region has their own version of it,” curator \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.jasminedjavahery.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jasmine Djavahery\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> explains. “We all have some beautiful, colorful rice dish that’s a melange of sweet, savory, sour flavors that seem, perhaps from afar, that they wouldn’t work. But they blend perfectly together.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Djavahery began identifying as SSWANA—rather than “Middle Eastern”—while studying art and ethnic studies at UC Santa Cruz. “It’s so specific to the West,” they say about the term “Middle East.” “It does not encompass the actual region.” Whereas “Middle East” serves the political and economic interests of colonial powers, “SSWANA” reprioritizes the peoples of the region.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Djavahery moved to the East Bay after graduation to take part in the region’s thriving arts and cultural scenes. Through the Center for Iranian Diaspora Studies at San Francisco State University, they hosted \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://anchor.fm/del-beh-del?utm_source=Center+for+Iranian+Diaspora+Studies\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Del beh Del\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a podcast spotlighting progressive conversations in the global Iranian community. “It solidified my desire and need to create spaces that I wasn’t finding in the Persian community,” Djavahery reflects. “I also felt like I needed to build my own community and knowledge of the SSWANA community.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918027\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2016px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918027\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery.jpg\" alt=\"Framed art displayed on a white wall in a gallery.\" width=\"2016\" height=\"1512\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery.jpg 2016w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2016px) 100vw, 2016px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Each piece of art offers a glimpse into the kaleidoscope that makes up the SSWANA diaspora. \u003ccite>(Jasmine Djavahery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The relationships Djavahery built with other SSWANA creatives and community organizers culminated in Jeweled Rice\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgc1yUnv1Z0/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> a show housed at North Oakland’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/crisisclubgallery/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Crisis Club Gallery\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> through September. The show features a multi-medium art gallery and food pop-ups, offering a glimpse into the kaleidoscope that makes up the SSWANA diaspora.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Traditional museums and academia often rely on the myth of objective third parties when documenting the experiences of people and their cultures. Jeweled Rice subverts the Western gaze by offering a space for individuals to speak for themselves through paintings, prints, zines and sculptures, as well as food.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In one piece, delicate \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">glasswork triangulates onlookers between the Midwest, Oakland and Syria. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A nearby lithograph etches its subject into a cathartic embrace with an onion, surrounded by a halo of suspended knives. Another print integrates dirt and nigella seeds—typically a garnish for breads like pide and borek—to depict delicate buttercup figurations.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918033\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918033\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Sculpture of a seated woman with her eyes closed.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The show subverts the Western gaze by offering a space for individuals to speak for themselves. \u003ccite>(Jacquelyn Tran)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“You don’t need Persian motifs to be Persian art,” Djavahery asserts. “I wanted to make sure that you felt like you didn’t have to have a typical pomegranate. Everyone’s interpretation of culture is specific to them.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bay Area SSWANA artists featured in the show include Amal Amer, Deena Hasheem, Degne Beyce, Donna Arkee, Jasmine Djavahery, Lina Celik, Mila Moldenhawer, Najah Alboushi, Rami KD, Sanaa Scherezade Khan, Yasmeen Abedifard and Zahra Hooshyar.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Apart from the art, the gallery is complemented by a rotating orbit of food offerings. “Art galleries can be very exclusive and uninviting because of how they’re painted, or because of the people we think go to these spaces,” Djavahery says. “Food is an easy way to invite people in.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The chefs that Djavahery gathered for these pop-ups come from a new generation of food bloggers focused on embodying their identities. Many of these cooks noted that food is art. Through their writing and cooking, they materialize homeland heartaches, meditate on culture and cultivate community. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918030\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918030\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski.jpg\" alt=\"A spread of bread, olives, raw vegetable, and dips.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1536\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-800x640.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-160x128.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-768x614.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-1536x1229.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A spread of vegan snacks from the Palestinian pop-up Mishmish includes zaatar-topped manoushe and cashew-based labneh. \u003ccite>(Dana Plucinski)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I had never seen Persian cuisine in this way,” Djavahery gushes, “I’ve been fascinated by this new generation of younger chefs taking control and agency of the foods they grew up with and presenting it to the social media sphere.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Helia Sadeghi of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bigdillkitchen/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Big Dill Kitchen\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> came to the U.S. as a refugee at 17. Cooking became a way for them to process trauma, loneliness and homesickness for their hometown of Isfahan, Iran. They began Big Dill Kitchen as a cooking blog, which blossomed into a platform—and a pop-up concept—where they could use food as an expression of their identity as a queer Iranian refugee living in diaspora.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The indie, DIY setting of these pop-ups gave Sadeghi the freedom to depart from the limited American understandings of “Middle Eastern” foods—there is so much more than kabobs, falafel, shawarma and saffron rice.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At their Jeweled Rice pop-up last weekend, Sadeghi offered \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/ChdhFgHp78Z/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">panir sabzi focaccia\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgmhq2dLpn-/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">carrot jam\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CdMKADDPpVq/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">rose chocolate chip cookies\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and a rose chia refresher. Sadeghi’s iteration of the focaccia art trend adorned the leavened bread with ingredients usually found in a Persian panir sabzi platter. The carrot jam—Sadeghi’s favorite—starred beautifully candied carrots finished with romantic flavors of orange peels and rose. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I am a queer person from the SSWANA community. Just being a SSWANA person living in diaspora is an ongoing existential crisis,” Sadeghi adds with a laugh. “I feel so disconnected—and I know this is a mutual feeling from other folks living in the diaspora—from parts of yourself, parts of your identity. It’s hard to express that or talk about it. It’s amazing to see it come together, and see a community being built around art and food.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918031\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918031\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia.jpg\" alt=\"Squares of tomato and herb-topped focaccia on a cooling rack.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1935\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-800x806.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-1020x1028.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-160x161.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-768x774.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-1524x1536.jpg 1524w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Big Dill Kitchen’s beautifully adorned focaccia is inspired by a traditional Iranian dish. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Big Dill Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Michelle Nazzal began her pop-up \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.mishmishsouq.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mishmish\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (“apricot” in Arabic) to preserve her grandmother’s Palestininan recipes and practice of community care through food. “The way I view the food I make is that I want people to feel comfort and community. I want them to feel nourished and cared for,” she explains. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At her upcoming Jeweled Rice appearance, Nazzal will serve a menu of vegan Palestinian snacks as a way to replicate these comforting sentiments. Nazzal sources hard-to-acquire Palestinian zaatar for her manoushe, yielding a tangy flatbread. She’ll sell vegan labneh, made with cashew in place of yogurt. “I went vegan seven years ago, and labneh was the hardest thing for me to give up. It was important to me to figure out how to make it vegan,” explains Nazzal of her most popular dish. A traditional cardamom mint tea will also be available. (\u003cem>Update: Originally slated for Fri., Aug. 26, Mishmish’s pop-up will be rescheduled for a September date.\u003c/em>)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>On Sunday, Aug. 28, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bademjoonam/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bademjoonam\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (a pun on bademjan, Farsi for “eggplant,” and joonam, a term of endearment) will serve Iranian-inspired sweets and refreshing sharbat, a drink that combines rooibos tea with basil seeds and floral accents. Sweets will include sholeh zard, a rice pudding infused with saffron, rose water and cardamom, as well as matcha cardamom cookies. For the cook, Sheila, the sholeh zard is a labor of love, requiring time spent carefully cooking rice while preparing the spices by hand. The pudding is adorned with a unique “one-of-one” design composed of cinnamon and pistachios that Sheila has prepared with her mother since childhood.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Earlier food businesses featured at the Jeweled Rice show include \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tanoorpopup/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tanoor\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a chai-focused Yemeni pop-up, and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/shikamu_/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Shikamu\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, an Iranian pop-up.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Museums and art galleries continue to diversify their programming after the 2020 protests, frantically attempting to correct archaic practices. But who gets to curate these spaces? Who determines which voices are worthy of satisfying haphazard institutional diversity quotas? And should we only look at these spaces?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I saw the limitations of the art world and of representation,” reflects Djavahery of their experience practicing and studying art. “I rarely see SSWANA art in museums. And if there is art, it’s usually not contemporary, or it’s limited to Islamic art. It’s usually just a couple people. In bigger gallery spaces, I don’t see representation of SSWANA art. And in the East Bay, I think some of these galleries are inaccessible to those who don’t know the right people or those who are less familiar with the ‘higher arts scene.’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jeweled Rice offers an alternative with its community-centered approach to arts curation. For the cooks and artists in the show, Jeweled Rice is one more step toward expressing the full constellation of the Bay Area’s SSWANA diaspora.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jeweled Rice is displayed at Crisis Club Gallery (5887 San Pablo Ave., Oakland) through Sept. 25. The gallery is open Friday to Sunday from 2–7pm. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bademjoonam/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bademjoonam\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> will pop up on Sunday, Aug. 28, 3–7pm. \u003ca href=\"https://www.mishmishsouq.com/\">Mishmish’s\u003c/a> rescheduled pop-up will occur in September. Additional pop-ups will be announced on \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kabobkidcrafts/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">@KabobKidCrafts\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Entry is free.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "At Lumpia Lands, Filipino Flavor Is the Star of the Show",
"headTitle": "At Lumpia Lands, Filipino Flavor Is the Star of the Show | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the Philippines, a “palengke” is a one-stop outdoor market where everything can be found—from food and alcohol to furniture, jewelry and even cockfights. These are crucial outposts where locals gather to share news, exchange ideas and connect.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s the concept that inspired Anthony Schlander (aka \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/anthonypresents/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Anthony Presents\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">), the local Filipino American entrepreneur and creative director at San Francisco’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/districtsixsf/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">District Six\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, to launch Lumpia Lands.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">District Six’s Aug. 21 event will feature no fewer than 10 vendors—all Filipino-owned—who will be on hand at the open-air entertainment venue to celebrate Filipino flavors, culture and unity.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It’s a festival with Filipino talent from all over the country,” Schlander says. “A lot of us don’t have the knowledge or bridges to grow. We don’t all know how to market. But if we can all be in the same area together, we can buy food from our vendors, we can support our small businesses. If they win, we all win.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The festival is part of a bigger series of events at District Six—including \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/YLnBcR44_VM?t=1265\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ube Fest\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> earlier this year—that promote “family friendly” experiences centered on various diasporic cultures with Bay Area roots.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917818\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13917818\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A crowd of festival attendees, many of them holding beer cans, on a beautiful sunny day.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A crowd of happy festival-goers at a previous District Six event. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Carla Jay)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lumpia Lands is the perfect example of this. It’s a spoof on \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13917310/outside-lands-2022-photos-review\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Outside Lands (the massive annual music festival whose famous acts and concert-goers take over Golden Gate Park each summer\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">), but with a significantly smaller, hyper-local and food-centric vibe that features live performances from Filipino artists like VRO and DJ Marcus Lee.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Of course, there will be hella lumpia, too. From traditional pork lumpia to vegetarian versions, there will be more than enough options for any connoisseur of the Filipino egg rolls.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“My favorite is shrimp lumpia from Lumpia Company, but don’t tell my mom,” Schlander says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13915581,arts_13913828']The lineup for the day will include food pop-ups from \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/draeslemonade/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Drae’s Lemonade\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (fresh lemonade and cocktails), \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/iriesbites/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Iries Bites\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (sweet items like madeleines dipped in ube as well as chocolate-covered mangoes), Made By Grace (BBQ skewers) and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lilalijocatering/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lil Alijo\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (crab lumpia), among others. (The aforementioned District Six regular \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13907726/e-40-goon-with-the-spoon-bay-area-rappers-food-entrepreneurs-hustle\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lumpia Company—which is co-owned by hip-hip entrepreneur E-40\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and his business partner, Alex Retodo—won’t be able to make it this time due to scheduling conflicts.) Each vendor is planning an exclusive Lumpia Lands item. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Schlander is emphatic that the event is not solely for Filipino patrons, nor is it lumpia exclusive. There will be candle makers. There will be clothing brands. There will be essential oils. There will be entertainers. And at the center of it all: Filipino flavor. Because that’s what a “palengke” is all about.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We can impact the economy [with these events],” he says. “A lot of these folks are small business owners. With Lumpia Lands, as a Filipino, I’m fortunate enough to help lead a part of this larger Filipino renaissance.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://dothebay.com/events/2022/8/20/lumpia-lands-2022-tickets\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lumpia Lands\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> takes place at District Six (428 11th St., San Francisco) on Sunday, Aug. 21, from noon–5pm (it had previously been scheduled for Sat., Aug 20). Individual tickets are $5; group table reservations are $50. Buying tickets in advance is highly recommended.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The District Six festival's headliners include ube-dipped cake, lemonade cocktails and, of course, hella lumpia.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the Philippines, a “palengke” is a one-stop outdoor market where everything can be found—from food and alcohol to furniture, jewelry and even cockfights. These are crucial outposts where locals gather to share news, exchange ideas and connect.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s the concept that inspired Anthony Schlander (aka \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/anthonypresents/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Anthony Presents\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">), the local Filipino American entrepreneur and creative director at San Francisco’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/districtsixsf/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">District Six\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, to launch Lumpia Lands.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">District Six’s Aug. 21 event will feature no fewer than 10 vendors—all Filipino-owned—who will be on hand at the open-air entertainment venue to celebrate Filipino flavors, culture and unity.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It’s a festival with Filipino talent from all over the country,” Schlander says. “A lot of us don’t have the knowledge or bridges to grow. We don’t all know how to market. But if we can all be in the same area together, we can buy food from our vendors, we can support our small businesses. If they win, we all win.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The festival is part of a bigger series of events at District Six—including \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/YLnBcR44_VM?t=1265\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ube Fest\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> earlier this year—that promote “family friendly” experiences centered on various diasporic cultures with Bay Area roots.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917818\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13917818\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A crowd of festival attendees, many of them holding beer cans, on a beautiful sunny day.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A crowd of happy festival-goers at a previous District Six event. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Carla Jay)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lumpia Lands is the perfect example of this. It’s a spoof on \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13917310/outside-lands-2022-photos-review\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Outside Lands (the massive annual music festival whose famous acts and concert-goers take over Golden Gate Park each summer\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">), but with a significantly smaller, hyper-local and food-centric vibe that features live performances from Filipino artists like VRO and DJ Marcus Lee.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Of course, there will be hella lumpia, too. From traditional pork lumpia to vegetarian versions, there will be more than enough options for any connoisseur of the Filipino egg rolls.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“My favorite is shrimp lumpia from Lumpia Company, but don’t tell my mom,” Schlander says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>The lineup for the day will include food pop-ups from \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/draeslemonade/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Drae’s Lemonade\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (fresh lemonade and cocktails), \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/iriesbites/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Iries Bites\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (sweet items like madeleines dipped in ube as well as chocolate-covered mangoes), Made By Grace (BBQ skewers) and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lilalijocatering/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lil Alijo\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (crab lumpia), among others. (The aforementioned District Six regular \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13907726/e-40-goon-with-the-spoon-bay-area-rappers-food-entrepreneurs-hustle\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lumpia Company—which is co-owned by hip-hip entrepreneur E-40\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and his business partner, Alex Retodo—won’t be able to make it this time due to scheduling conflicts.) Each vendor is planning an exclusive Lumpia Lands item. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Schlander is emphatic that the event is not solely for Filipino patrons, nor is it lumpia exclusive. There will be candle makers. There will be clothing brands. There will be essential oils. There will be entertainers. And at the center of it all: Filipino flavor. Because that’s what a “palengke” is all about.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We can impact the economy [with these events],” he says. “A lot of these folks are small business owners. With Lumpia Lands, as a Filipino, I’m fortunate enough to help lead a part of this larger Filipino renaissance.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://dothebay.com/events/2022/8/20/lumpia-lands-2022-tickets\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lumpia Lands\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> takes place at District Six (428 11th St., San Francisco) on Sunday, Aug. 21, from noon–5pm (it had previously been scheduled for Sat., Aug 20). Individual tickets are $5; group table reservations are $50. Buying tickets in advance is highly recommended.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Richmond’s Coziest Red Sauce Italian Comes Courtesy of a Mexican American Family",
"headTitle": "Richmond’s Coziest Red Sauce Italian Comes Courtesy of a Mexican American Family | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In many ways, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.davidspastaspizzas.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">David’s Pastas & Pizzas\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is your prototypical red sauce Italian joint. Tucked away in a stretch of working-class Richmond populated by auto shops and unmarked warehouses, the restaurant has built up a strong local following for its thin-crust pizzas and heaping platters of chicken parmesan and fettuccine Alfredo. It’s the kind of place where the whole family can fill up on nostalgic, comforting carbs for $40 or $50.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Of course, this is the Bay Area, so it shouldn’t come as any surprise that the kitchen team working behind the scenes is entirely Latino—or, in this case, that the whole restaurant is owned and operated by a Mexican American family with deep roots in the Richmond-San Pablo area.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Co-owner David Guillen, Jr. says the way his father, David Guillen, Sr., got into Italian cooking is a classic immigrant tale: Shortly after arriving in the United States in the late ’90s, the Jalisco native landed a job as a dishwasher at an Italian restaurant in Orinda—a gig he secured thanks to the recommendation of some Salvadoran neighbors that he’d befriended. David Sr. had never had any particular interest in Italian food prior to that, but he started studying the recipes in earnest, slowly working his way up the line until he became the lead cook. Eventually, In 2017, he and his brother opened their own restaurant, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.famigliaitalianrestaurant.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Famiglia Italian Restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, in Pinole.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, David Sr. has split off to open a small Italian family restaurant of his own. David Jr. works the front of the house and manages the business side of things, but the recipes are David Sr.’s alone—a culmination of his 20-plus years of slinging ravioli and spaghetti carbonara. Open since December of last year, the restaurant also occupies a somewhat rarefied niche here in the East Bay: The menu focuses almost exclusively on the kind of red sauce classics that dominate the Italian American enclaves of the East Coast but have become something of an endangered species in these parts. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917561\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2547px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13917561\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Cheese-Ravioli-creamy-marinara_-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Raviol and sliced chicken in a pool of creamy, orange marinara sauce.\" width=\"2547\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Cheese-Ravioli-creamy-marinara_-scaled.jpg 2547w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Cheese-Ravioli-creamy-marinara_-800x804.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Cheese-Ravioli-creamy-marinara_-1020x1025.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Cheese-Ravioli-creamy-marinara_-160x161.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Cheese-Ravioli-creamy-marinara_-768x772.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Cheese-Ravioli-creamy-marinara_-1528x1536.jpg 1528w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Cheese-Ravioli-creamy-marinara_-2038x2048.jpg 2038w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Cheese-Ravioli-creamy-marinara_-1920x1930.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2547px) 100vw, 2547px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese ravioli comes in a glistening pool of creamy marinara. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of David's Pastas & Pizzas)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So, one of the most popular dishes at David’s Pastas & Pizzas is its extra-creamy, extra-garlicky version of fettuccine Alfredo—the kind of retro pasta dish you’d be hard-pressed to find at any of the Bay Area’s stylish temples of Cal-Italian or hyper-regional Italian cooking. Another is David Sr.’s own invention, the “Richmond Special,” which coats a massive portion of penne, sausage, chicken and shrimp with his signature creamy marinara (i.e., marinara sauce spiked with lobster bisque). The restaurant also serves a hearty and satisfyingly workmanlike version of chicken parmesan—a couple of enormous, oozily cheese-laden cutlets piled atop a boatload of red sauce penne.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, if red sauce Italian is a dying art in many parts of the Bay Area, David’s Pastas & Pizzas is just one example of how Mexican Americans and other Latino cooks are the ones helping to keep it alive. David Jr. says he knows of at least two or three other Latino-run Italian restaurants in the Richmond-San Pablo area alone. They all offer the same kinds of Italian American classics you can find at David’s.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This is partly just a matter of catering to local tastes. David Jr. estimates that a little more than half of his customers are Latino, many of them second-generation folks in their 20s or 30s. “Hispanics in Richmond, we all love pizza,” he says, recounting how when he was a kid his family would supplement his mother’s Mexican home cooking with frequent excursions to Domino’s, Pizza Hut and Little Caesars. Even though his dad worked at an Italian restaurant, “fancy” Italian food was never part of his life.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917563\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 616px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13917563\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/davids-pastas_guillen-family.jpeg\" alt=\"A family portrait: a young man with his arms around the shoulders of his parents on each side of him.\" width=\"616\" height=\"628\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/davids-pastas_guillen-family.jpeg 616w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/davids-pastas_guillen-family-160x163.jpeg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 616px) 100vw, 616px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A family photo: David Guillen, Sr; David Guillen, Jr.; and Maria Guillen Cruz. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of David Guillen, Jr.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In fact, David Jr. says, the Guillens had to whittle their menu down from the dozens of pasta dishes in his father’s repertoire, prioritizing the ones that locals would be familiar with. But even with a menu made up almost entirely of crowd pleasers, David Jr. finds he always has to encourage customers to step a bit outside of their pizza-and-lasagna comfort zone—to try the carbonara, for instance, or the seafood-loaded spaghetti di mare.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">To further cater to their customer base of Mexican families, the Guillens have started tapping more directly into their Jaliscan roots. A few weeks ago, they started offering a brief “cenaduría” menu on Friday and Saturday nights, serving the kinds of dishes that you might find in the Guillens’ hometown of San Juan de los Lagos in Jalisco. David Jr. explains that his mother, Maria Guillen Cruz, cooks all of the Mexican specials.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So far, the rotating menu has included things like red pork pozole, crispy tacos and tortas ahogadas, or “drowned sandwiches,” the sauce-drenched specialty of the state of Jalisco. Guillen Cruz’s version—a nod to a specific torta stand in San Juan de los Lagos—features roast pork loin, onions, queso panela and an unconscionable amount of spicy chipotle-tomato sauce.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917579\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13917579\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Torta-Ahogada_-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A sandwich drenched in bright orange sauce.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Torta-Ahogada_-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Torta-Ahogada_-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Torta-Ahogada_-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Torta-Ahogada_-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Torta-Ahogada_-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Torta-Ahogada_-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Torta-Ahogada_-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Torta-Ahogada_-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant’s torta ahogada is a specialty of the owners’ hometown of San Juan de los Lagos in Jalisco, Mexico. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of David's Pastas & Pizzas)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the Richmond-San Pablo area, it actually isn’t unusual for a restaurant to serve a full-fledged Mexican menu right alongside a comprehensive lineup of pizzas. But the Guillens say they aren’t trying to compete with the dozens of high-quality taquerias and taco trucks in the area. Instead, Guillen Cruz is staying focused on a small number of Jaliscan specialties like the wet tortas, which are relatively rare in the Bay. The idea is to allow the Mexican families who come in on the weekend to enjoy a nice, home-style meal while their kids can still get a pizza. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13915646,arts_13909648,arts_13913355']Even just the name “cenaduría,” referring to a kind of informal supper club in Mexico, is nostalgic for a lot of the restaurant’s customers, David Jr. says. So many of them tell him it reminds them of the late-night food stands they used to visit in their hometowns.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Starting in September, the Guillens will be bringing that hometown feeling to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fleamarket_n_richmondca/?hl=en\">Richmond flea market\u003c/a> on Sundays with a new side venture, Tacos Doña Mari, named after Guillen Cruz. Their specialty will be tacos encebollados, a kind of thinly-sliced-steak-and-onion taco that David Jr. hasn’t seen much of in Northern California. He’s hoping it’ll wind up being the Bay Area’s “next quesabirria”—the \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/11/21/20937687/el-garage-quesabirria-birria-taco-richmond-instagram\">next big thing\u003c/a>.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.davidspastaspizzas.com/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">David’s Pastas & Pizzas\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is open Mon.–Thur. 11am to 9pm and Fri.–Sat. 11am to 10pm at 1025 13th St. in Richmond.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "David’s Pastas & Pizzas serves a mean chicken parm—and Jalisco-style tortas ahogadas, too.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In many ways, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.davidspastaspizzas.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">David’s Pastas & Pizzas\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is your prototypical red sauce Italian joint. Tucked away in a stretch of working-class Richmond populated by auto shops and unmarked warehouses, the restaurant has built up a strong local following for its thin-crust pizzas and heaping platters of chicken parmesan and fettuccine Alfredo. It’s the kind of place where the whole family can fill up on nostalgic, comforting carbs for $40 or $50.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Of course, this is the Bay Area, so it shouldn’t come as any surprise that the kitchen team working behind the scenes is entirely Latino—or, in this case, that the whole restaurant is owned and operated by a Mexican American family with deep roots in the Richmond-San Pablo area.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Co-owner David Guillen, Jr. says the way his father, David Guillen, Sr., got into Italian cooking is a classic immigrant tale: Shortly after arriving in the United States in the late ’90s, the Jalisco native landed a job as a dishwasher at an Italian restaurant in Orinda—a gig he secured thanks to the recommendation of some Salvadoran neighbors that he’d befriended. David Sr. had never had any particular interest in Italian food prior to that, but he started studying the recipes in earnest, slowly working his way up the line until he became the lead cook. Eventually, In 2017, he and his brother opened their own restaurant, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.famigliaitalianrestaurant.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Famiglia Italian Restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, in Pinole.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, David Sr. has split off to open a small Italian family restaurant of his own. David Jr. works the front of the house and manages the business side of things, but the recipes are David Sr.’s alone—a culmination of his 20-plus years of slinging ravioli and spaghetti carbonara. Open since December of last year, the restaurant also occupies a somewhat rarefied niche here in the East Bay: The menu focuses almost exclusively on the kind of red sauce classics that dominate the Italian American enclaves of the East Coast but have become something of an endangered species in these parts. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917561\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2547px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13917561\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Cheese-Ravioli-creamy-marinara_-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Raviol and sliced chicken in a pool of creamy, orange marinara sauce.\" width=\"2547\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Cheese-Ravioli-creamy-marinara_-scaled.jpg 2547w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Cheese-Ravioli-creamy-marinara_-800x804.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Cheese-Ravioli-creamy-marinara_-1020x1025.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Cheese-Ravioli-creamy-marinara_-160x161.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Cheese-Ravioli-creamy-marinara_-768x772.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Cheese-Ravioli-creamy-marinara_-1528x1536.jpg 1528w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Cheese-Ravioli-creamy-marinara_-2038x2048.jpg 2038w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Cheese-Ravioli-creamy-marinara_-1920x1930.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2547px) 100vw, 2547px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese ravioli comes in a glistening pool of creamy marinara. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of David's Pastas & Pizzas)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So, one of the most popular dishes at David’s Pastas & Pizzas is its extra-creamy, extra-garlicky version of fettuccine Alfredo—the kind of retro pasta dish you’d be hard-pressed to find at any of the Bay Area’s stylish temples of Cal-Italian or hyper-regional Italian cooking. Another is David Sr.’s own invention, the “Richmond Special,” which coats a massive portion of penne, sausage, chicken and shrimp with his signature creamy marinara (i.e., marinara sauce spiked with lobster bisque). The restaurant also serves a hearty and satisfyingly workmanlike version of chicken parmesan—a couple of enormous, oozily cheese-laden cutlets piled atop a boatload of red sauce penne.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, if red sauce Italian is a dying art in many parts of the Bay Area, David’s Pastas & Pizzas is just one example of how Mexican Americans and other Latino cooks are the ones helping to keep it alive. David Jr. says he knows of at least two or three other Latino-run Italian restaurants in the Richmond-San Pablo area alone. They all offer the same kinds of Italian American classics you can find at David’s.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This is partly just a matter of catering to local tastes. David Jr. estimates that a little more than half of his customers are Latino, many of them second-generation folks in their 20s or 30s. “Hispanics in Richmond, we all love pizza,” he says, recounting how when he was a kid his family would supplement his mother’s Mexican home cooking with frequent excursions to Domino’s, Pizza Hut and Little Caesars. Even though his dad worked at an Italian restaurant, “fancy” Italian food was never part of his life.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917563\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 616px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13917563\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/davids-pastas_guillen-family.jpeg\" alt=\"A family portrait: a young man with his arms around the shoulders of his parents on each side of him.\" width=\"616\" height=\"628\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/davids-pastas_guillen-family.jpeg 616w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/davids-pastas_guillen-family-160x163.jpeg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 616px) 100vw, 616px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A family photo: David Guillen, Sr; David Guillen, Jr.; and Maria Guillen Cruz. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of David Guillen, Jr.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In fact, David Jr. says, the Guillens had to whittle their menu down from the dozens of pasta dishes in his father’s repertoire, prioritizing the ones that locals would be familiar with. But even with a menu made up almost entirely of crowd pleasers, David Jr. finds he always has to encourage customers to step a bit outside of their pizza-and-lasagna comfort zone—to try the carbonara, for instance, or the seafood-loaded spaghetti di mare.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">To further cater to their customer base of Mexican families, the Guillens have started tapping more directly into their Jaliscan roots. A few weeks ago, they started offering a brief “cenaduría” menu on Friday and Saturday nights, serving the kinds of dishes that you might find in the Guillens’ hometown of San Juan de los Lagos in Jalisco. David Jr. explains that his mother, Maria Guillen Cruz, cooks all of the Mexican specials.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So far, the rotating menu has included things like red pork pozole, crispy tacos and tortas ahogadas, or “drowned sandwiches,” the sauce-drenched specialty of the state of Jalisco. Guillen Cruz’s version—a nod to a specific torta stand in San Juan de los Lagos—features roast pork loin, onions, queso panela and an unconscionable amount of spicy chipotle-tomato sauce.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917579\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13917579\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Torta-Ahogada_-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A sandwich drenched in bright orange sauce.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Torta-Ahogada_-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Torta-Ahogada_-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Torta-Ahogada_-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Torta-Ahogada_-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Torta-Ahogada_-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Torta-Ahogada_-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Torta-Ahogada_-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Torta-Ahogada_-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant’s torta ahogada is a specialty of the owners’ hometown of San Juan de los Lagos in Jalisco, Mexico. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of David's Pastas & Pizzas)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the Richmond-San Pablo area, it actually isn’t unusual for a restaurant to serve a full-fledged Mexican menu right alongside a comprehensive lineup of pizzas. But the Guillens say they aren’t trying to compete with the dozens of high-quality taquerias and taco trucks in the area. Instead, Guillen Cruz is staying focused on a small number of Jaliscan specialties like the wet tortas, which are relatively rare in the Bay. The idea is to allow the Mexican families who come in on the weekend to enjoy a nice, home-style meal while their kids can still get a pizza. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Even just the name “cenaduría,” referring to a kind of informal supper club in Mexico, is nostalgic for a lot of the restaurant’s customers, David Jr. says. So many of them tell him it reminds them of the late-night food stands they used to visit in their hometowns.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Starting in September, the Guillens will be bringing that hometown feeling to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fleamarket_n_richmondca/?hl=en\">Richmond flea market\u003c/a> on Sundays with a new side venture, Tacos Doña Mari, named after Guillen Cruz. Their specialty will be tacos encebollados, a kind of thinly-sliced-steak-and-onion taco that David Jr. hasn’t seen much of in Northern California. He’s hoping it’ll wind up being the Bay Area’s “next quesabirria”—the \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/11/21/20937687/el-garage-quesabirria-birria-taco-richmond-instagram\">next big thing\u003c/a>.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.davidspastaspizzas.com/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">David’s Pastas & Pizzas\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is open Mon.–Thur. 11am to 9pm and Fri.–Sat. 11am to 10pm at 1025 13th St. in Richmond.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Anula’s Cafe, Downtown Oakland’s Home Away From Home, Closes After 13 Years",
"headTitle": "Anula’s Cafe, Downtown Oakland’s Home Away From Home, Closes After 13 Years | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It was like a jazz funeral on the last day of regular lunch service at Anula’s, the little Sri Lankan-Jamaican lunch spot that provided a home away from home for Downtown Oakland’s beleaguered office workers for the past 13 years. A line of megafans spilled outside, the kind of line that makes passersby stop and ask, “What’s going on?” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The atmosphere was chatty and warm—the first time the cafe felt like this since COVID drained away most of the regulars. Ken, a longtime customer who lined up early this Thursday, known among the faithful as lamb curry/Brussels sprouts day, put his affection like this: “Anula is like the Sri Lankan auntie that you never had.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">He’s referring, of course, to Anula Edirisinghe, the one-woman force behind the cafe who is retiring at the end of the week. Even as the line spilled out into Franklin St., Edirisinghe took time to speak with her customers, reminiscing about the past and asking everybody about their children, school life or work, age depending. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Edirisinghe’s daughter, Maya Rapier, and ex-husband, Phil Rapier, showed up to join the throng. “I’ve never seen a crowd like this,” says Maya, who would know: In typical family restaurant fashion, she helped her mother run the cafe all throughout high school. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This crowd may have been Rapier’s accidental doing—her Twitter thread celebrating her mom’s legacy went \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/raindropx510/status/1554325213038292992?s=20&t=McpYnxbWNZLdQklE8gmNIQ\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">locally viral\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> earlier in the week. ”Even if all you buy is a smoothie or a hot chai, it would mean so much. She’s given her life to her cafe,” Rapier wrote. “She loves feeding people and she loves making people happy. Plz help me make her happy this week.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917188\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1228px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13917188\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/FZIiG9wUYAA8knb.jpg\" alt=\"Anula Edirisinghe and her daughter Maya Rapier pose in front of Anula's Cafe; the sign in the window advertises the restaurant's offerings: "espresso, gourmet sandwiches, daily hot meal specials," and so on.\" width=\"1228\" height=\"1818\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/FZIiG9wUYAA8knb.jpg 1228w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/FZIiG9wUYAA8knb-800x1184.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/FZIiG9wUYAA8knb-1020x1510.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/FZIiG9wUYAA8knb-160x237.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/FZIiG9wUYAA8knb-768x1137.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/FZIiG9wUYAA8knb-1038x1536.jpg 1038w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1228px) 100vw, 1228px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anula Edirisinghe (right) and her daughter Maya Rapier pose for a picture in front of Anula’s Cafe. \u003ccite>(Thalía Gochez)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Anula’s is the kind of place where people come for the company, but that’s not to say the food is lacking. Much feted is \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/a-destination-deli-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Anula’s jerk chicken\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, which bathes moist drumsticks in a herby sauce with a strong hit of bitter smokiness, served over a bed of rice and beans. The chicken is a Tuesday item: At Anula’s, every workday has its own menu of one vegetarian and one non-veg dish, which repeat in a cycle basically unchanged since the cafe’s beginnings. Today’s specials, brussel sprouts or lamb curry served over fragrant turmeric rice, were so popular that they sold out mid-lunch, and Edirisinghe had to turn dozens of customers away.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I only use good ingredients in my food, you know,” Edirisinghe says when asked what her secret sauce was, “lots of organic.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“She was spending good money to buy quality ingredients,” says Rapier, recounting her weekly shopping trips to the Berkeley Bowl with her mom to source fresh vegetables. “I always encouraged her to raise the price,” which is currently $13.50 for a generous combo plate, “but she just didn’t have the heart to do it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B7tucLNB_fJ/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Anula’s Cafe opened up in 2009, after Edirisinghe found a cheap storefront through Craigslist on the bottom floor of the Financial Center Building, across from the Tribune Tower. She had no experience with the food service industry before her impulse buy: She ran a flower shop two blocks down the street for fifteen years until her friends, impressed by her home cooking, encouraged her to make it a business. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though Edirisinghe herself is Sri Lankan, born a little outside of the island’s capital of Colombo, she put many Jamaican staples on the menu of her new cafe: jerk chicken, patties, rice and peas.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“My mother-in-law taught me,” Edirisinghe says, referring to the mother of her ex-husband, Phil, who is Caribbean-Canadian. “I like Jamaican food—Sri Lankan food is too hard to cook!” Still, she has some Sri Lankan favorites up on the chalkboard: veggie roti, chana masala and, once a month, the elaborate preparation of jackfruit, coconut sambol and rice wrapped in a banana leaf known as lamprais. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B71fZiBhjWb/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That menu has basically stayed the same since the cafe first opened. “She was just so stubborn about changing the menu, because she just didn’t want to disappoint her long term customers,” Rapier says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">She always thought of the community first when she made business decisions, and not just when it came to the menus and prices. For example, Edirisinghe, for many years, would hire refugee women from the nearby International Rescue Committee offices to provide them stable employment in their new city.\u003c/span>\u003cb> \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Repaying the favor, the community gave back. Business was brisk, by all accounts, until the pandemic hit. The cafe shuttered for two years, until February 2022, when Edirisinghe felt that it was safe to reopen. But without office workers she struggled to turn a profit. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13916312,arts_13910410,bayareabites_136429']The cafe has no kitchen, so Edirisinghe leases space at a commissary kitchen a few blocks away, below the Ramada hotel, to cook in the mornings. When that kitchen’s rent spiked, she felt she had no option but to throw in the towel and take an early retirement. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I’m sad, but I’m looking forward to a break,” Edirisinghe says. “I want to go on a trip back to Sri Lanka with my daughter.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Edirisinghe is keeping her catering business, and some of her faithful regulars have already commissioned her for birthday parties, office functions and formal events. They’re worried for her—ever since Edirisinghe went behind on her mortgage payments in 2018 and lost her house, her toehold on the city has weakened. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But Edirisinghe herself isn’t planning on leaving the community she has formed around her restaurant anytime soon. “I’m Oakland,” she said to a customer who asked about her future plans. “I’m staying here only.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Anula’s Cafe (1319 Franklin St) is throwing a farewell party on Saturday, Aug. 6, from noon–3pm. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It was like a jazz funeral on the last day of regular lunch service at Anula’s, the little Sri Lankan-Jamaican lunch spot that provided a home away from home for Downtown Oakland’s beleaguered office workers for the past 13 years. A line of megafans spilled outside, the kind of line that makes passersby stop and ask, “What’s going on?” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The atmosphere was chatty and warm—the first time the cafe felt like this since COVID drained away most of the regulars. Ken, a longtime customer who lined up early this Thursday, known among the faithful as lamb curry/Brussels sprouts day, put his affection like this: “Anula is like the Sri Lankan auntie that you never had.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">He’s referring, of course, to Anula Edirisinghe, the one-woman force behind the cafe who is retiring at the end of the week. Even as the line spilled out into Franklin St., Edirisinghe took time to speak with her customers, reminiscing about the past and asking everybody about their children, school life or work, age depending. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Edirisinghe’s daughter, Maya Rapier, and ex-husband, Phil Rapier, showed up to join the throng. “I’ve never seen a crowd like this,” says Maya, who would know: In typical family restaurant fashion, she helped her mother run the cafe all throughout high school. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This crowd may have been Rapier’s accidental doing—her Twitter thread celebrating her mom’s legacy went \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/raindropx510/status/1554325213038292992?s=20&t=McpYnxbWNZLdQklE8gmNIQ\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">locally viral\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> earlier in the week. ”Even if all you buy is a smoothie or a hot chai, it would mean so much. She’s given her life to her cafe,” Rapier wrote. “She loves feeding people and she loves making people happy. Plz help me make her happy this week.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917188\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1228px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13917188\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/FZIiG9wUYAA8knb.jpg\" alt=\"Anula Edirisinghe and her daughter Maya Rapier pose in front of Anula's Cafe; the sign in the window advertises the restaurant's offerings: "espresso, gourmet sandwiches, daily hot meal specials," and so on.\" width=\"1228\" height=\"1818\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/FZIiG9wUYAA8knb.jpg 1228w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/FZIiG9wUYAA8knb-800x1184.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/FZIiG9wUYAA8knb-1020x1510.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/FZIiG9wUYAA8knb-160x237.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/FZIiG9wUYAA8knb-768x1137.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/FZIiG9wUYAA8knb-1038x1536.jpg 1038w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1228px) 100vw, 1228px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anula Edirisinghe (right) and her daughter Maya Rapier pose for a picture in front of Anula’s Cafe. \u003ccite>(Thalía Gochez)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Anula’s is the kind of place where people come for the company, but that’s not to say the food is lacking. Much feted is \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/a-destination-deli-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Anula’s jerk chicken\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, which bathes moist drumsticks in a herby sauce with a strong hit of bitter smokiness, served over a bed of rice and beans. The chicken is a Tuesday item: At Anula’s, every workday has its own menu of one vegetarian and one non-veg dish, which repeat in a cycle basically unchanged since the cafe’s beginnings. Today’s specials, brussel sprouts or lamb curry served over fragrant turmeric rice, were so popular that they sold out mid-lunch, and Edirisinghe had to turn dozens of customers away.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I only use good ingredients in my food, you know,” Edirisinghe says when asked what her secret sauce was, “lots of organic.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“She was spending good money to buy quality ingredients,” says Rapier, recounting her weekly shopping trips to the Berkeley Bowl with her mom to source fresh vegetables. “I always encouraged her to raise the price,” which is currently $13.50 for a generous combo plate, “but she just didn’t have the heart to do it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Anula’s Cafe opened up in 2009, after Edirisinghe found a cheap storefront through Craigslist on the bottom floor of the Financial Center Building, across from the Tribune Tower. She had no experience with the food service industry before her impulse buy: She ran a flower shop two blocks down the street for fifteen years until her friends, impressed by her home cooking, encouraged her to make it a business. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though Edirisinghe herself is Sri Lankan, born a little outside of the island’s capital of Colombo, she put many Jamaican staples on the menu of her new cafe: jerk chicken, patties, rice and peas.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“My mother-in-law taught me,” Edirisinghe says, referring to the mother of her ex-husband, Phil, who is Caribbean-Canadian. “I like Jamaican food—Sri Lankan food is too hard to cook!” Still, she has some Sri Lankan favorites up on the chalkboard: veggie roti, chana masala and, once a month, the elaborate preparation of jackfruit, coconut sambol and rice wrapped in a banana leaf known as lamprais. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That menu has basically stayed the same since the cafe first opened. “She was just so stubborn about changing the menu, because she just didn’t want to disappoint her long term customers,” Rapier says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">She always thought of the community first when she made business decisions, and not just when it came to the menus and prices. For example, Edirisinghe, for many years, would hire refugee women from the nearby International Rescue Committee offices to provide them stable employment in their new city.\u003c/span>\u003cb> \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Repaying the favor, the community gave back. Business was brisk, by all accounts, until the pandemic hit. The cafe shuttered for two years, until February 2022, when Edirisinghe felt that it was safe to reopen. But without office workers she struggled to turn a profit. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>The cafe has no kitchen, so Edirisinghe leases space at a commissary kitchen a few blocks away, below the Ramada hotel, to cook in the mornings. When that kitchen’s rent spiked, she felt she had no option but to throw in the towel and take an early retirement. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I’m sad, but I’m looking forward to a break,” Edirisinghe says. “I want to go on a trip back to Sri Lanka with my daughter.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Edirisinghe is keeping her catering business, and some of her faithful regulars have already commissioned her for birthday parties, office functions and formal events. They’re worried for her—ever since Edirisinghe went behind on her mortgage payments in 2018 and lost her house, her toehold on the city has weakened. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But Edirisinghe herself isn’t planning on leaving the community she has formed around her restaurant anytime soon. “I’m Oakland,” she said to a customer who asked about her future plans. “I’m staying here only.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Anula’s Cafe (1319 Franklin St) is throwing a farewell party on Saturday, Aug. 6, from noon–3pm. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Preeti Mistry Wants to Show That Wine Pairing Isn’t Just for White Food",
"headTitle": "Preeti Mistry Wants to Show That Wine Pairing Isn’t Just for White Food | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For as long as Preeti Mistry has been a professional cook, restaurant people have talked about the same handful of cuisines in the context of wine pairing: French. Italian. Maybe some take on California cuisine that’s also rooted in European fine dining traditions. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Wouldn’t it be something, Mistry thought, if you could go out to a fancy wine dinner and the restaurant served you something more interesting—and less stereotypically Eurocentric—than a plate of braised short ribs over polenta?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s the idea behind the former \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.juhubeachclub.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Juhu Beach Club\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> chef’s new collaboration with Healdsburg-based \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.jwine.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">J Vineyards & Winery\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">: “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.jwine.com/shifting-the-lens.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Shifting the Lens\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,” a chef’s residency program that aims to recenter the conversation around food and wine pairing, and fine dining in general, while giving the spotlight to chefs of color. The summer-long series features a different BIPOC woman as a guest chef each month, who will create a five- to seven-course tasting menu with wine pairings to serve at J Winery’s elegant “Bubble Room” dining room. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jenny Dorsey, a Chinese American fine dining chef who runs a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.studioatao.org/about-us\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">nonprofit\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> dedicated to inspiring social change in the food industry, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.jwine.com/shifting-the-lens-chef-jenny-dorsey.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">kicked the series off in July\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, Mistry themself is taking over for the month of August. Their residency will run Thursday through Sunday from Aug. 18–28, with seatings between 11am and 4pm each day, plus a special \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.exploretock.com/jvineyardswinery/event/338918/dinner-and-conversation-with-chef-preeti-mistry?_ga=2.206849232.214939539.1659568774-764472049.1658153707\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">VIP dinner and Q&A session\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> on Saturday, Aug. 20.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917180\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2208px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13917180\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Chefs-in-Kitchen.jpg\" alt=\"Three chefs huddle around a plate a food, adding sauces and garnishes.\" width=\"2208\" height=\"1472\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Chefs-in-Kitchen.jpg 2208w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Chefs-in-Kitchen-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Chefs-in-Kitchen-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Chefs-in-Kitchen-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Chefs-in-Kitchen-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Chefs-in-Kitchen-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Chefs-in-Kitchen-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Chefs-in-Kitchen-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2208px) 100vw, 2208px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mistry (right) and Jenny Dorsey (center) are two of the chefs featured in the Shifting the Lens residency series. Here, they finish plating a dish along with J Winery chef Forest Kellogg. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of J Vineyards & Winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The idea, Mistry says, is to counter the narrative that food and wine pairing is an art that only applies to white, European cuisines—and not to, say, Chinese food or Mexican food or soul food. For instance, for the longest time the conventional wisdom around Indian food has been that you shouldn’t even bother with wine. “Just drink beer or cocktails” is the advice you’ll typically get, Mistry explains. The other typical approach would be to pair Indian food with a very sweet, fruit-forward wine like a Syrah or a Gewurztraminer—“to throw sweetness at the spice,” as Mistry puts it. “‘Meh,’ I say. So basic.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Instead, Mistry prefers to serve acidic, structured red wines and floral white wines with Indian food—Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, for instance. “I don’t want the wine to envelop the food and mask the flavors,” Mistry says. “I want the wine to stand up to the food.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The tasting menu format also gives Mistry the opportunity to present dishes that are more prettily plated and nuanced than what they used to serve at their more casual restaurants—food that’s a little bit “fancier.” Dishes might include khichdi, deep-fried Jimmy Nardello peppers with chickpea batter and a tomato rasam soup poured tableside. It’ll be a mostly vegetarian menu with one meat course, Mistry says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917181\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13917181\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Preeti_Dish.jpg\" alt=\"Liquid is poured into a pani puri.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Preeti_Dish.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Preeti_Dish-800x400.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Preeti_Dish-1020x510.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Preeti_Dish-160x80.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Preeti_Dish-768x384.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An elegant take on pani puri. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of J Vineyard & Winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">J Winery’s head winemaker, Nicole Hitchcock, has also created a special “Shifted Lens” brut rosé that’s available for purchase as part of the personalized gift boxes that each resident chef put together.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mistry is known for being an outspoken critic of the ways the American restaurant industry has long been dominated—to its detriment—by white, male fine dining chefs. In fact, one of Mistry’s long-term goals is to create a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/7/24/21337715/preeti-mistry-farmer-radical-family-farms-juhu-beach-club-blue-hill-stone-barns\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">farm-based restaurant with an extensive BIPOC-focused chef’s residency program\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> similar to the one they’ve created in Healdsburg.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The part that stuck with me was who gets these opportunities,” Mistry says. “The Bubble Room is a very beautiful room, very elegant. It might make some people nervous if they’re not used to these types of spaces.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917182\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2208px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13917182\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/J-Bubble-Room-2.jpg\" alt=\"An elegant dining room with chandeliers and white tablecloths.\" width=\"2208\" height=\"1472\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/J-Bubble-Room-2.jpg 2208w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/J-Bubble-Room-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/J-Bubble-Room-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/J-Bubble-Room-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/J-Bubble-Room-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/J-Bubble-Room-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/J-Bubble-Room-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/J-Bubble-Room-2-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2208px) 100vw, 2208px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The wine pairing meals will take place in J Winery’s elegant Bubble Room. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of J Vineyards & Winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But why shouldn’t chefs of color who aren’t cooking Eurocentric cuisines also have access to those kinds of spaces? For the residency program, Mistry actively sought out BIPOC women chefs who are doing meaningful social justice work beyond what they put on the plate. In addition to Dorsey, New York City-based chef \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/shenarrigreens/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Shenarri Freeman\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, who cooks vegan soul food, will close out this year’s inaugural series in September.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13916965,arts_13895601,arts_13906189']“In my early twenties, coming to Sonoma, I was enamored with both wine and fine dining. But there was a significant part of that world that didn’t love me back,” Mistry says. “This is an opportunity to actually do something about it and bring people in.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mistry believes the residency program is a chance to do things differently—and better—than much of the industry at large. The chefs who participate in the program are fairly compensated, Mistry says. And while the Bubble Room’s own kitchen is helmed by a white man, the whole kitchen team spends two weeks working shoulder to shoulder with each guest chef, learning not just how to execute the menu but also the cultural history of the dishes, and how to correctly pronounce “zongzi,” for instance. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We spend so much time complaining about cultural appropriation,” Mistry says. “But there is a way to appreciate other cultures and do it right.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Preeti Mistry’s “Shifting the Lens” residency at J Winery (\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">11447 Old Redwood Hwy, \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Healdsburg) will run from Aug. 18–28, with seatings for the $200 tasting menu Thursday through Sunday between 11am and 4pm. The \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.exploretock.com/jvineyardswinery/event/338918/dinner-and-conversation-with-chef-preeti-mistry?_ga=2.48522790.1624968386.1659479532-764472049.1658153707\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">VIP dinner\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> ($250) is on Saturday, Aug. 20, 6–9pm. Make reservations in advance via \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.exploretock.com/jvineyardswinery/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tock\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> or the \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.jwine.com/shifting-the-lens.html\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">J Winery website\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For as long as Preeti Mistry has been a professional cook, restaurant people have talked about the same handful of cuisines in the context of wine pairing: French. Italian. Maybe some take on California cuisine that’s also rooted in European fine dining traditions. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Wouldn’t it be something, Mistry thought, if you could go out to a fancy wine dinner and the restaurant served you something more interesting—and less stereotypically Eurocentric—than a plate of braised short ribs over polenta?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s the idea behind the former \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.juhubeachclub.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Juhu Beach Club\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> chef’s new collaboration with Healdsburg-based \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.jwine.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">J Vineyards & Winery\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">: “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.jwine.com/shifting-the-lens.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Shifting the Lens\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,” a chef’s residency program that aims to recenter the conversation around food and wine pairing, and fine dining in general, while giving the spotlight to chefs of color. The summer-long series features a different BIPOC woman as a guest chef each month, who will create a five- to seven-course tasting menu with wine pairings to serve at J Winery’s elegant “Bubble Room” dining room. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jenny Dorsey, a Chinese American fine dining chef who runs a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.studioatao.org/about-us\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">nonprofit\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> dedicated to inspiring social change in the food industry, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.jwine.com/shifting-the-lens-chef-jenny-dorsey.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">kicked the series off in July\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, Mistry themself is taking over for the month of August. Their residency will run Thursday through Sunday from Aug. 18–28, with seatings between 11am and 4pm each day, plus a special \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.exploretock.com/jvineyardswinery/event/338918/dinner-and-conversation-with-chef-preeti-mistry?_ga=2.206849232.214939539.1659568774-764472049.1658153707\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">VIP dinner and Q&A session\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> on Saturday, Aug. 20.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917180\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2208px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13917180\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Chefs-in-Kitchen.jpg\" alt=\"Three chefs huddle around a plate a food, adding sauces and garnishes.\" width=\"2208\" height=\"1472\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Chefs-in-Kitchen.jpg 2208w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Chefs-in-Kitchen-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Chefs-in-Kitchen-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Chefs-in-Kitchen-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Chefs-in-Kitchen-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Chefs-in-Kitchen-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Chefs-in-Kitchen-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Chefs-in-Kitchen-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2208px) 100vw, 2208px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mistry (right) and Jenny Dorsey (center) are two of the chefs featured in the Shifting the Lens residency series. Here, they finish plating a dish along with J Winery chef Forest Kellogg. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of J Vineyards & Winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The idea, Mistry says, is to counter the narrative that food and wine pairing is an art that only applies to white, European cuisines—and not to, say, Chinese food or Mexican food or soul food. For instance, for the longest time the conventional wisdom around Indian food has been that you shouldn’t even bother with wine. “Just drink beer or cocktails” is the advice you’ll typically get, Mistry explains. The other typical approach would be to pair Indian food with a very sweet, fruit-forward wine like a Syrah or a Gewurztraminer—“to throw sweetness at the spice,” as Mistry puts it. “‘Meh,’ I say. So basic.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Instead, Mistry prefers to serve acidic, structured red wines and floral white wines with Indian food—Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, for instance. “I don’t want the wine to envelop the food and mask the flavors,” Mistry says. “I want the wine to stand up to the food.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The tasting menu format also gives Mistry the opportunity to present dishes that are more prettily plated and nuanced than what they used to serve at their more casual restaurants—food that’s a little bit “fancier.” Dishes might include khichdi, deep-fried Jimmy Nardello peppers with chickpea batter and a tomato rasam soup poured tableside. It’ll be a mostly vegetarian menu with one meat course, Mistry says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917181\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13917181\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Preeti_Dish.jpg\" alt=\"Liquid is poured into a pani puri.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Preeti_Dish.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Preeti_Dish-800x400.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Preeti_Dish-1020x510.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Preeti_Dish-160x80.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Preeti_Dish-768x384.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An elegant take on pani puri. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of J Vineyard & Winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">J Winery’s head winemaker, Nicole Hitchcock, has also created a special “Shifted Lens” brut rosé that’s available for purchase as part of the personalized gift boxes that each resident chef put together.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mistry is known for being an outspoken critic of the ways the American restaurant industry has long been dominated—to its detriment—by white, male fine dining chefs. In fact, one of Mistry’s long-term goals is to create a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/7/24/21337715/preeti-mistry-farmer-radical-family-farms-juhu-beach-club-blue-hill-stone-barns\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">farm-based restaurant with an extensive BIPOC-focused chef’s residency program\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> similar to the one they’ve created in Healdsburg.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The part that stuck with me was who gets these opportunities,” Mistry says. “The Bubble Room is a very beautiful room, very elegant. It might make some people nervous if they’re not used to these types of spaces.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917182\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2208px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13917182\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/J-Bubble-Room-2.jpg\" alt=\"An elegant dining room with chandeliers and white tablecloths.\" width=\"2208\" height=\"1472\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/J-Bubble-Room-2.jpg 2208w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/J-Bubble-Room-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/J-Bubble-Room-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/J-Bubble-Room-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/J-Bubble-Room-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/J-Bubble-Room-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/J-Bubble-Room-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/J-Bubble-Room-2-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2208px) 100vw, 2208px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The wine pairing meals will take place in J Winery’s elegant Bubble Room. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of J Vineyards & Winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But why shouldn’t chefs of color who aren’t cooking Eurocentric cuisines also have access to those kinds of spaces? For the residency program, Mistry actively sought out BIPOC women chefs who are doing meaningful social justice work beyond what they put on the plate. In addition to Dorsey, New York City-based chef \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/shenarrigreens/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Shenarri Freeman\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, who cooks vegan soul food, will close out this year’s inaugural series in September.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“In my early twenties, coming to Sonoma, I was enamored with both wine and fine dining. But there was a significant part of that world that didn’t love me back,” Mistry says. “This is an opportunity to actually do something about it and bring people in.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mistry believes the residency program is a chance to do things differently—and better—than much of the industry at large. The chefs who participate in the program are fairly compensated, Mistry says. And while the Bubble Room’s own kitchen is helmed by a white man, the whole kitchen team spends two weeks working shoulder to shoulder with each guest chef, learning not just how to execute the menu but also the cultural history of the dishes, and how to correctly pronounce “zongzi,” for instance. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We spend so much time complaining about cultural appropriation,” Mistry says. “But there is a way to appreciate other cultures and do it right.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Preeti Mistry’s “Shifting the Lens” residency at J Winery (\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">11447 Old Redwood Hwy, \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Healdsburg) will run from Aug. 18–28, with seatings for the $200 tasting menu Thursday through Sunday between 11am and 4pm. The \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.exploretock.com/jvineyardswinery/event/338918/dinner-and-conversation-with-chef-preeti-mistry?_ga=2.48522790.1624968386.1659479532-764472049.1658153707\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">VIP dinner\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> ($250) is on Saturday, Aug. 20, 6–9pm. Make reservations in advance via \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.exploretock.com/jvineyardswinery/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tock\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> or the \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.jwine.com/shifting-the-lens.html\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">J Winery website\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "delirama-pastrami-berkeley-opening-hella-hungry",
"title": "Berkeley’s Delirama Is Putting Pastrami on Everything",
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"headTitle": "Berkeley’s Delirama Is Putting Pastrami on Everything | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/deliramaofficial/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Delirama\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—a new, independently-owned deli in North Berkeley—won’t officially open its doors until Monday, August 8, the place is already poppin’ with pastrami.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s because it’s owned by Cash Caris and Anahita Cann, the innovative couple who delivered popular Oakland pop-ups \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pyrospastrami/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Pyro’s Pastrami\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/psychedelic_pizza_/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Psychedelic Pizza\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Both ventures earned an underground reputation for their \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yonU4-77Pgg\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">unique, pastrami-loaded offerings\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—pastrami pizza, pastrami bagels, pastrami cream cheese and even pastrami tacos. The pop-ups birthed a religious following of pastrami worshippers who have since been anticipating Delirama’s debut.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When I stopped by to chat with Caris at the funky, retro-inspired Solano Avenue restaurant, we kept getting interrupted by hopeful patrons who thought the deli was open. One listened intently as Caris described the initial menu before promising to return for lunch on opening day, saving notes on her phone’s calendar. Another gentleman just kept peering in longingly from the street. Between the two of them, I’d never seen so much eagerness to consume pastrami.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CgU6I1ZPy5I/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s the kind of gravity Delirama has. In just a few days, they’ll start serving their constellation of quirky, homestyle pastrami goodies like “the OG Sandwich”—beef pastrami (or a vegan version made with celery root) on rye, with Thousand Island dressing, gruyere cheese and coleslaw. The opening menu also includes a Hawaiian- and childhood-inspired “POG Juice” and fresh-baked bagels and bialys (a “cousin” of the bagel with an indentation in the middle that Delirama fills with caramelized onions and pastrami bits).\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">During my visit, Caris told me about the magic that goes into making pastrami—a laborious process that takes an average of 30 days—and his journey into the food industry over 15 years ago. He also hopped into the kitchen to make me one of his favorite dishes, the Reuben.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“[Pastrami] really is like a spiritual experience,” he told me while grilling fresh slices of meat to heavenly perfection. After one bite, I agreed.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917125\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13917125\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"pastrami being cooked on the grill in Delirama's kitchen, with slices of bread being toasted nearby\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A “spiritual experience” being prepared by chef Cash Caris. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">********\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: It seems like you’ve had a long love affair with pastrami. When did that begin?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">(Laughs) We’ve definitely had a long affair. The first pastrami I remember eating as a kid was from those 10-cent packs at Lucky’s. You could get thin cured meats for real cheap. My grandma would always get one pack of pastrami and I would fry it in a pan. Then, when I worked at Togo’s later on, when I was probably like 16, I saw pastrami again. I ate pastrami there every day for free. It was completely different from what I knew. I just got interested and started tinkering at home with it. I never made it in a restaurant, though, because it’s very time-consuming. When I got older, I did a cross country trip with Anahita. I started to think about different types of cuisines I could do for a food pop-up. I thought about doing tacos, American food, fresh Italian pasta, burgers. I can make it all. But the one thing I realized that I had the strongest connection to was pastrami. I could live without any of the others, but I would never want to live without pastrami, rye bread and mustard. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your connection to the Bay Area, and how does your food reflect that?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I was born and raised in the South Bay; I’ve spent the largest portion of my life in San Jose. I love it, but it’s not a place for pastrami right now, unfortunately. That time is nearing though. It’s something I want to do—open more Deliramas.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As far as pastrami fitting into the food scene, the Bay is so food-centric, but pastrami itself doesn’t exist much here. The fact that it’s not here as much as I want it to be, that’s what gave us our purpose. The Bay needs pastrami. We are putting in the time and love to provide it. Certain communities already know about pastrami, but we want to spread it. Doing this with craft and originality, that’s what it deserves. I’ll never use injection or anything in the meat to speed up the process. It is owed the time and energy that it takes. It’s not easily done. To make 2,000 pounds of it and flip it and constantly check it and watch the temperatures. It’s the hardest thing I’ve ever done, to be honest, but also the most rewarding. We want to integrate our California roots with the deli style of the East Coast.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s the most popular item that you’re bringing to your menu?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The OG [sandwich]. That’s the original, in California, in terms of pastrami. We use rye bread, Thousand Island dressing, coleslaw and gruyere cheese on pastrami. We also add “Dad’s mustard”—our house mustard. So many people have really gravitated towards it [at Pyro’s]. We’re giving them a peek into the [pastrami making] process and what goes into it. We’re not just ripping open a pack and steaming it and slicing it.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I heard that you’re also planning to do pastrami tacos. I’m very intrigued.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Have you had a Crunchy Taco Supreme at Taco Bell? It’s sort of like that, but not exactly. We take parts of the pastrami, those little bits and pieces that don’t go into the sandwich, and we cook it— adding aromatics and spices, lettuce, sour cream and shredded sharp cheddar. Nostalgia catches people’s eyes, so that’s why I mention Taco Bell. It also taps into my roots [as a Mexican American]. My family is from SoCal and the Bay, but my great great grandparents were from Mexico on my mom’s side. The tacos taste incredible, but we won’t add that to the menu until September. People have always been asking me to do tacos, so I think they’ll be popular.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917127\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13917127\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"a row of pastrami-topped bialys (a type of bagel) on a rack displayed for customers inside Delirama\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-1920x2880.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Freshly baked bialys with pastrami await at Delirama. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I recently kicked it with the \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916044/sucka-free-soul-the-vegan-hood-chefs-honor-southern-heritage-with-a-frisco-twist\">\u003cb>Vegan Hood Chefs\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>; I’m sure they’d be hyped to see your vegan options. Can you tell us how your vegan pastrami is made?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I used to live in Portland and was vegan. When we thought of Delirama, we knew we needed to have vegan options—at least 50% vegan and vegetarian on the menu—for the sake of the planet, the people. I didn’t want to use any soy or texturized protein. I wanted it all to be 100% plant-based and non-refined. Our vegan pastrami is made from celery root. It’s definitely a versatile root that is overlooked. We take the root, we brine it, smoke it, steam it. It’s chilled, then sliced super, super thin. It’s cooked al dente. We brine it again. It has this really great umami, smoky, salty savoriness. It makes for an amazing reuben sandwich. We throw it on our vegan rye, and our vegan Thousand Island sauce, get that all nice and melty with vegan cheese; it’s delicious. You feel good after it. A seitan is pure gluten and sodium. It’s like bread on bread. But this is fresh. You can never replace the meat fully, but it’s a delicious option and opens up the pastrami experience to people who wouldn’t expect to get something substantial at a deli. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Where are your favorite delis in the Bay?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A really well-done deli that comes to mind is \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://oksdeli.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ok’s Deli\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. They do everything from scratch and have extremely talented people working there. That’s up and coming for sure. It’s off Telegraph. They started as a pop-up as well. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There’s also \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.picnicrotisserie.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Picnic\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. It isn’t a deli though. It’s a woman-owned rotisserie. They make pastrami, too. They serve it on a baguette with coleslaw. Their pastrami is underrated. They have some of the best pastrami in the Bay. I don’t think people know about it, to be honest. They don’t blast it out.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In San Francisco, we like the pastrami sandwich at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thelittleredwindow.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Little Red Window\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. For nostalgia, we go to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://molinaridelisf.com/41085\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Molinari\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for sandwiches. We’re also going to check out the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sandwich_saint/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Saint Sandwich\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> shop next. We haven’t been yet, but we keep hearing great things about it. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You’ve operated successful pop-ups and now you’re about to open your first brick-and-mortar deli in a few days. How does it feel?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13913592,arts_13916044,arts_13914585']It’s emotional. We’re days away from opening and it almost doesn’t feel real. It’s here though, it’s gonna happen, but it’s still hard to believe. There have been a lot of roadblocks. We tried for a while to get a brick-and-mortar. We [previously] had another spot locked down, and it was ripped from underneath us. It was a local spot. We were paying back our [loans] and everything looked set, but it got sabotaged. If we didn’t find a new spot within 5 months, we wouldn’t have been able to survive. We had used up most of our capital. It was a scary feeling. To be here now is amazing. I’m confident in what we can do, and I have pure intentions with this brand and vision. It all happened for a reason. It was a blessing in disguise because we’re sitting here now.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What early experiences have shaped your connection to the local food industry?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When I was a teenager, I raised some money to go to the SF Academy of Arts for Motion Picture and Television Production. But I needed a job. I didn’t have much experience, but I found a weird posting about an Israeli caterer in Santa Clara. It was a strange place with a dark, dingy kitchen. The couple running it didn’t speak English. But it smelled good. I was introduced to foods I’ve never seen before. Different spices and aromas. It took me by surprise. They hired me on the spot. I just washed dishes at first. I was young and without experience; I had to earn everything. Two months into it, the owner’s wife came over. She pointed at two bags of onions that needed to be chopped. That’s how I got into the kitchen, and I just stayed there. I eventually moved to an assistant on the hot line and kept moving up. We only communicated with body language the entire time. It was bonding, but not much guidance was given. Then I had to make a choice one day: Do I stay in the kitchen or keep making films? I was barely scraping by, but I just couldn’t stop thinking about the kitchen. So I went all in.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-13917129\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a tray of sliced pastrami in the kitchen of Delirama, waiting to be used for sandwiches, pizzas, and more\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/deliramaofficial/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Delirama\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (1746 Solano Ave, Berkeley) opens on Monday, August 8. Service will begin at 7 am until 3 pm (or until sold out). They will open every Mon., Thu. & Fri. 7 am–3 pm and Sat. & Sun. 9 am–5 pm (or until sold out).\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Pastrami pizza. Pastrami bagels. Even pastrami tacos.",
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"title": "Berkeley’s Delirama Is Putting Pastrami on Everything | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/deliramaofficial/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Delirama\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—a new, independently-owned deli in North Berkeley—won’t officially open its doors until Monday, August 8, the place is already poppin’ with pastrami.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s because it’s owned by Cash Caris and Anahita Cann, the innovative couple who delivered popular Oakland pop-ups \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pyrospastrami/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Pyro’s Pastrami\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/psychedelic_pizza_/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Psychedelic Pizza\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Both ventures earned an underground reputation for their \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yonU4-77Pgg\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">unique, pastrami-loaded offerings\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—pastrami pizza, pastrami bagels, pastrami cream cheese and even pastrami tacos. The pop-ups birthed a religious following of pastrami worshippers who have since been anticipating Delirama’s debut.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When I stopped by to chat with Caris at the funky, retro-inspired Solano Avenue restaurant, we kept getting interrupted by hopeful patrons who thought the deli was open. One listened intently as Caris described the initial menu before promising to return for lunch on opening day, saving notes on her phone’s calendar. Another gentleman just kept peering in longingly from the street. Between the two of them, I’d never seen so much eagerness to consume pastrami.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s the kind of gravity Delirama has. In just a few days, they’ll start serving their constellation of quirky, homestyle pastrami goodies like “the OG Sandwich”—beef pastrami (or a vegan version made with celery root) on rye, with Thousand Island dressing, gruyere cheese and coleslaw. The opening menu also includes a Hawaiian- and childhood-inspired “POG Juice” and fresh-baked bagels and bialys (a “cousin” of the bagel with an indentation in the middle that Delirama fills with caramelized onions and pastrami bits).\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">During my visit, Caris told me about the magic that goes into making pastrami—a laborious process that takes an average of 30 days—and his journey into the food industry over 15 years ago. He also hopped into the kitchen to make me one of his favorite dishes, the Reuben.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“[Pastrami] really is like a spiritual experience,” he told me while grilling fresh slices of meat to heavenly perfection. After one bite, I agreed.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917125\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13917125\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"pastrami being cooked on the grill in Delirama's kitchen, with slices of bread being toasted nearby\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1150-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A “spiritual experience” being prepared by chef Cash Caris. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">********\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: It seems like you’ve had a long love affair with pastrami. When did that begin?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">(Laughs) We’ve definitely had a long affair. The first pastrami I remember eating as a kid was from those 10-cent packs at Lucky’s. You could get thin cured meats for real cheap. My grandma would always get one pack of pastrami and I would fry it in a pan. Then, when I worked at Togo’s later on, when I was probably like 16, I saw pastrami again. I ate pastrami there every day for free. It was completely different from what I knew. I just got interested and started tinkering at home with it. I never made it in a restaurant, though, because it’s very time-consuming. When I got older, I did a cross country trip with Anahita. I started to think about different types of cuisines I could do for a food pop-up. I thought about doing tacos, American food, fresh Italian pasta, burgers. I can make it all. But the one thing I realized that I had the strongest connection to was pastrami. I could live without any of the others, but I would never want to live without pastrami, rye bread and mustard. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your connection to the Bay Area, and how does your food reflect that?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I was born and raised in the South Bay; I’ve spent the largest portion of my life in San Jose. I love it, but it’s not a place for pastrami right now, unfortunately. That time is nearing though. It’s something I want to do—open more Deliramas.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As far as pastrami fitting into the food scene, the Bay is so food-centric, but pastrami itself doesn’t exist much here. The fact that it’s not here as much as I want it to be, that’s what gave us our purpose. The Bay needs pastrami. We are putting in the time and love to provide it. Certain communities already know about pastrami, but we want to spread it. Doing this with craft and originality, that’s what it deserves. I’ll never use injection or anything in the meat to speed up the process. It is owed the time and energy that it takes. It’s not easily done. To make 2,000 pounds of it and flip it and constantly check it and watch the temperatures. It’s the hardest thing I’ve ever done, to be honest, but also the most rewarding. We want to integrate our California roots with the deli style of the East Coast.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s the most popular item that you’re bringing to your menu?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The OG [sandwich]. That’s the original, in California, in terms of pastrami. We use rye bread, Thousand Island dressing, coleslaw and gruyere cheese on pastrami. We also add “Dad’s mustard”—our house mustard. So many people have really gravitated towards it [at Pyro’s]. We’re giving them a peek into the [pastrami making] process and what goes into it. We’re not just ripping open a pack and steaming it and slicing it.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I heard that you’re also planning to do pastrami tacos. I’m very intrigued.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Have you had a Crunchy Taco Supreme at Taco Bell? It’s sort of like that, but not exactly. We take parts of the pastrami, those little bits and pieces that don’t go into the sandwich, and we cook it— adding aromatics and spices, lettuce, sour cream and shredded sharp cheddar. Nostalgia catches people’s eyes, so that’s why I mention Taco Bell. It also taps into my roots [as a Mexican American]. My family is from SoCal and the Bay, but my great great grandparents were from Mexico on my mom’s side. The tacos taste incredible, but we won’t add that to the menu until September. People have always been asking me to do tacos, so I think they’ll be popular.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917127\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13917127\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"a row of pastrami-topped bialys (a type of bagel) on a rack displayed for customers inside Delirama\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-1920x2880.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1090-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Freshly baked bialys with pastrami await at Delirama. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I recently kicked it with the \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916044/sucka-free-soul-the-vegan-hood-chefs-honor-southern-heritage-with-a-frisco-twist\">\u003cb>Vegan Hood Chefs\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>; I’m sure they’d be hyped to see your vegan options. Can you tell us how your vegan pastrami is made?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I used to live in Portland and was vegan. When we thought of Delirama, we knew we needed to have vegan options—at least 50% vegan and vegetarian on the menu—for the sake of the planet, the people. I didn’t want to use any soy or texturized protein. I wanted it all to be 100% plant-based and non-refined. Our vegan pastrami is made from celery root. It’s definitely a versatile root that is overlooked. We take the root, we brine it, smoke it, steam it. It’s chilled, then sliced super, super thin. It’s cooked al dente. We brine it again. It has this really great umami, smoky, salty savoriness. It makes for an amazing reuben sandwich. We throw it on our vegan rye, and our vegan Thousand Island sauce, get that all nice and melty with vegan cheese; it’s delicious. You feel good after it. A seitan is pure gluten and sodium. It’s like bread on bread. But this is fresh. You can never replace the meat fully, but it’s a delicious option and opens up the pastrami experience to people who wouldn’t expect to get something substantial at a deli. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Where are your favorite delis in the Bay?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A really well-done deli that comes to mind is \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://oksdeli.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ok’s Deli\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. They do everything from scratch and have extremely talented people working there. That’s up and coming for sure. It’s off Telegraph. They started as a pop-up as well. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There’s also \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.picnicrotisserie.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Picnic\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. It isn’t a deli though. It’s a woman-owned rotisserie. They make pastrami, too. They serve it on a baguette with coleslaw. Their pastrami is underrated. They have some of the best pastrami in the Bay. I don’t think people know about it, to be honest. They don’t blast it out.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In San Francisco, we like the pastrami sandwich at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thelittleredwindow.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Little Red Window\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. For nostalgia, we go to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://molinaridelisf.com/41085\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Molinari\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for sandwiches. We’re also going to check out the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sandwich_saint/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Saint Sandwich\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> shop next. We haven’t been yet, but we keep hearing great things about it. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You’ve operated successful pop-ups and now you’re about to open your first brick-and-mortar deli in a few days. How does it feel?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>It’s emotional. We’re days away from opening and it almost doesn’t feel real. It’s here though, it’s gonna happen, but it’s still hard to believe. There have been a lot of roadblocks. We tried for a while to get a brick-and-mortar. We [previously] had another spot locked down, and it was ripped from underneath us. It was a local spot. We were paying back our [loans] and everything looked set, but it got sabotaged. If we didn’t find a new spot within 5 months, we wouldn’t have been able to survive. We had used up most of our capital. It was a scary feeling. To be here now is amazing. I’m confident in what we can do, and I have pure intentions with this brand and vision. It all happened for a reason. It was a blessing in disguise because we’re sitting here now.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What early experiences have shaped your connection to the local food industry?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When I was a teenager, I raised some money to go to the SF Academy of Arts for Motion Picture and Television Production. But I needed a job. I didn’t have much experience, but I found a weird posting about an Israeli caterer in Santa Clara. It was a strange place with a dark, dingy kitchen. The couple running it didn’t speak English. But it smelled good. I was introduced to foods I’ve never seen before. Different spices and aromas. It took me by surprise. They hired me on the spot. I just washed dishes at first. I was young and without experience; I had to earn everything. Two months into it, the owner’s wife came over. She pointed at two bags of onions that needed to be chopped. That’s how I got into the kitchen, and I just stayed there. I eventually moved to an assistant on the hot line and kept moving up. We only communicated with body language the entire time. It was bonding, but not much guidance was given. Then I had to make a choice one day: Do I stay in the kitchen or keep making films? I was barely scraping by, but I just couldn’t stop thinking about the kitchen. So I went all in.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-13917129\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a tray of sliced pastrami in the kitchen of Delirama, waiting to be used for sandwiches, pizzas, and more\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/IMG_1136-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/deliramaofficial/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Delirama\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (1746 Solano Ave, Berkeley) opens on Monday, August 8. Service will begin at 7 am until 3 pm (or until sold out). They will open every Mon., Thu. & Fri. 7 am–3 pm and Sat. & Sun. 9 am–5 pm (or until sold out).\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Farming Hope Believes Every San Franciscan Should Have Access to an Elevated Dining Experience",
"headTitle": "Farming Hope Believes Every San Franciscan Should Have Access to an Elevated Dining Experience | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the age of social media, the food industry can sometimes feel like a popularity contest. Who delivers the most Instagrammable dishes? What exotic ingredients can be touted? Where can the most outrageous decor and cocktail menus be found? And I agree, food should be fun. There isn’t any shame in mindfully enjoying the Bay Area’s abundance of flavors.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But food is also a baseline necessity, and accessibility to healthy, joyful food shouldn’t be an exclusive thing—but often it is. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sfgov.org/scorecards/safety-net/homeless-population\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As one of the nation’s leading per-capita regions for homelessness\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://tippingpoint.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Taking-Count-2021-A-Study-on-Poverty-in-the-Bay-Area.pdf\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">income inequality\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, there is a warped sense of food in San Francisco. I’ve seen people eat out of trash cans in front of high-end restaurants and walked past people begging for meals while others take home leftovers provided by their generous employers. Though the experience of straddling those two extremes isn’t unique to the Bay Area, it’s more sharply edged around here.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This complex issue goes beyond any individual’s actions, of course, and the simple truth is this: All folks—regardless of age, background or life choices—deserve the benefits of our region’s wonderful culinary experiences. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://farminghope.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Farming Hope\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> was established by \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://dschool.stanford.edu/classes/feed-the-change-redesigning-food-systems\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Stanford FEED Design School Incubator\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> graduates Kevin Madrigal and Jamie Stark in 2016, this kind of equity in the food ecosystem is the tenet they chose to build upon. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13916972\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13916972\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57457_003_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"two men stand beside each other as founders of Farming Hope\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57457_003_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57457_003_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57457_003_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57457_003_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57457_003_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57457_003_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Co-founders of Farming Hope Jamie Stark (left) and Kevin Madrigal pose for a portrait at Reffetorio. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As a “garden-to-table” job training nonprofit, Farming Hope provides paid work opportunities to apprentices who might otherwise struggle to find stable, supportive employment in the food industry. Since it was founded in 2016, the organization has established various locations in San Francisco where it works with marginalized community members.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Based on three six-week training cycles at rotating venues—\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://welcometomannys.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Manny’s\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the Mission, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.refettoriosanfrancisco.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Refettorio\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Civic Center and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://farminghope.org/garden\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a community garden\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Western Addition—the program passes down diverse skills, experiences and, most importantly, the love and knowledge of good, sustainable food to houseless, transitioning and formerly incarcerated individuals.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Our model was thinking about a modern soup kitchen,” says co-founder Madrigal, who currently serves as an advisor for Farming Hope. “It’s about actually being in community with each other, not just waiting to shove food down people’s throats then asking them to leave.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Over the span of six years, Farming Hope has been working to increase its services and adapt to the changing needs of those they serve. It’s something they’ve been able to sustain thanks to their tireless commitment to building community partnerships while providing regular event programming. An example of that is their weekly “in-house dinner.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It provides families a space to connect and share resources,” says Andie Sobrepeña, the program’s operations director. “We have food-insecure families who are invited. There is an area for kids, for parents, and we have volunteers and staff helping out. We do a three-course plated dinner and have volunteers serving the families restaurant style. It’s a really beautiful space. It’s less of a transactional experience of giving food and leaving. It’s a safe space intentionally built for families with a common ground to connect on. It’s meant to be a holistic experience, to break down barriers of who has access to nice dining experiences. We should all be comfortable in those spaces.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A San Francisco native who grew up working for her family’s independently owned business, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.foundationcafesf.com/#main\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Foundation Cafe\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Sobrepeña is deeply committed to the nonprofit’s mission. Along with Kerry Rodgers, Sobrepeña is set to begin her tenure as Farming Hope’s co-executive director this August by launching a number of new programs to help apprentices navigate a COVID-impacted food industry.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Andie Sobrepeña, on Farming Hope’s ‘in-house dinners’\"]“It’s meant to be a holistic experience, to break down barriers of who has access to nice dining experiences. We should all be comfortable in those spaces.”[/pullquote]One of those new initiatives is \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CgdGCCgp6Hd/\">Feel Good Coffee\u003c/a>, a coffee pop-up at Manny’s on Thursdays and Fridays—a program Sobrepeña says will allow apprentices to accumulate more hours by adding a morning shift that previously didn’t exist. It’ll also give them a chance to learn about pastry making and coffee culture, including specialty latte preparation. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Farming Hope is also rolling out a new guest chef dinner program, which will feature influential chefs working directly with apprentices to serve food insecure families and the general public. The first dinner was in June, featuring \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/goodgoodcultureclub/?hl=en\">Good Good Culture Club\u003c/a> chefs Brett Shaw and Kevin Keovanpheng and general manager Aimee Arcilla. The three restaurant industry veterans volunteered their time, collaborating with Farming Hope apprentices to create a menu that included halibut sashimi, green curry beef and calamansi chiffon cake. Former \u003cem>Top Chef\u003c/em> contestant \u003ca href=\"https://funraise.org/give/Farming-Hope/72c4f0be-8354-4138-bfb5-7a675bf10571/\">Tu David Phu is slated to be the next guest on August 8\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13903133,arts_13907528,arts_13904861']Working with a panoply of eclectic chefs exposes apprentices to a wide set of beliefs and viewpoints in the kitchen, apart from Farming Hope’s own lessons.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The cool thing is that not everyone comes into our program wanting to be a chef, but no one regrets learning how to cook better,” Sobrepeña says. “It gives tools to learn how to eat healthier and support their personal values. There’s value in the garden-to-table process and understanding food systems, sustainability and cooking philosophies from different chefs. That all gets carried forward.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In addition, Farming Hope is in the process of formalizing an externship with Good Good Culture Club, where trainees can continue learning about service and cooking techniques in a real-world restaurant setting.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13916971\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13916971\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57462_006_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"corn is being roasted on a stovetop by an apprentice in the kitchen of Reffetorio\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57462_006_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57462_006_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57462_006_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57462_006_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57462_006_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57462_006_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maria Burgos roasts corn at Reffetorio. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s a reminder that the local food industry can provide much more than just a night out or good eats—it’s an active network of support and sustenance. Farming Hope embodies that by providing a livelihood and pathway forward for those who never thought they’d be creating a plate of crying tiger shrimp with coconut-makrut cream and crispy butter beans.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Food is such a connector and a baseline need for everyone that it breaks down barriers in ways that not every job training program can,” says Sobrepeña, “It helps that our team enters this with open eyes and hearts; we’re all ready for the challenges of this work.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">You can visit Farming Hope at one of their two San Francisco locations: Manny’s (3092 16th St.) or Refettorio (149 Fell St.). \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/farminghope/?hl=en\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Check their Instagram\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for additional information on upcoming guest chefs and more.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the age of social media, the food industry can sometimes feel like a popularity contest. Who delivers the most Instagrammable dishes? What exotic ingredients can be touted? Where can the most outrageous decor and cocktail menus be found? And I agree, food should be fun. There isn’t any shame in mindfully enjoying the Bay Area’s abundance of flavors.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But food is also a baseline necessity, and accessibility to healthy, joyful food shouldn’t be an exclusive thing—but often it is. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sfgov.org/scorecards/safety-net/homeless-population\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As one of the nation’s leading per-capita regions for homelessness\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://tippingpoint.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Taking-Count-2021-A-Study-on-Poverty-in-the-Bay-Area.pdf\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">income inequality\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, there is a warped sense of food in San Francisco. I’ve seen people eat out of trash cans in front of high-end restaurants and walked past people begging for meals while others take home leftovers provided by their generous employers. Though the experience of straddling those two extremes isn’t unique to the Bay Area, it’s more sharply edged around here.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This complex issue goes beyond any individual’s actions, of course, and the simple truth is this: All folks—regardless of age, background or life choices—deserve the benefits of our region’s wonderful culinary experiences. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://farminghope.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Farming Hope\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> was established by \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://dschool.stanford.edu/classes/feed-the-change-redesigning-food-systems\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Stanford FEED Design School Incubator\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> graduates Kevin Madrigal and Jamie Stark in 2016, this kind of equity in the food ecosystem is the tenet they chose to build upon. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13916972\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13916972\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57457_003_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"two men stand beside each other as founders of Farming Hope\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57457_003_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57457_003_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57457_003_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57457_003_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57457_003_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57457_003_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Co-founders of Farming Hope Jamie Stark (left) and Kevin Madrigal pose for a portrait at Reffetorio. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As a “garden-to-table” job training nonprofit, Farming Hope provides paid work opportunities to apprentices who might otherwise struggle to find stable, supportive employment in the food industry. Since it was founded in 2016, the organization has established various locations in San Francisco where it works with marginalized community members.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Based on three six-week training cycles at rotating venues—\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://welcometomannys.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Manny’s\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the Mission, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.refettoriosanfrancisco.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Refettorio\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Civic Center and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://farminghope.org/garden\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a community garden\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Western Addition—the program passes down diverse skills, experiences and, most importantly, the love and knowledge of good, sustainable food to houseless, transitioning and formerly incarcerated individuals.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Our model was thinking about a modern soup kitchen,” says co-founder Madrigal, who currently serves as an advisor for Farming Hope. “It’s about actually being in community with each other, not just waiting to shove food down people’s throats then asking them to leave.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Over the span of six years, Farming Hope has been working to increase its services and adapt to the changing needs of those they serve. It’s something they’ve been able to sustain thanks to their tireless commitment to building community partnerships while providing regular event programming. An example of that is their weekly “in-house dinner.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It provides families a space to connect and share resources,” says Andie Sobrepeña, the program’s operations director. “We have food-insecure families who are invited. There is an area for kids, for parents, and we have volunteers and staff helping out. We do a three-course plated dinner and have volunteers serving the families restaurant style. It’s a really beautiful space. It’s less of a transactional experience of giving food and leaving. It’s a safe space intentionally built for families with a common ground to connect on. It’s meant to be a holistic experience, to break down barriers of who has access to nice dining experiences. We should all be comfortable in those spaces.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A San Francisco native who grew up working for her family’s independently owned business, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.foundationcafesf.com/#main\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Foundation Cafe\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Sobrepeña is deeply committed to the nonprofit’s mission. Along with Kerry Rodgers, Sobrepeña is set to begin her tenure as Farming Hope’s co-executive director this August by launching a number of new programs to help apprentices navigate a COVID-impacted food industry.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>One of those new initiatives is \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CgdGCCgp6Hd/\">Feel Good Coffee\u003c/a>, a coffee pop-up at Manny’s on Thursdays and Fridays—a program Sobrepeña says will allow apprentices to accumulate more hours by adding a morning shift that previously didn’t exist. It’ll also give them a chance to learn about pastry making and coffee culture, including specialty latte preparation. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Farming Hope is also rolling out a new guest chef dinner program, which will feature influential chefs working directly with apprentices to serve food insecure families and the general public. The first dinner was in June, featuring \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/goodgoodcultureclub/?hl=en\">Good Good Culture Club\u003c/a> chefs Brett Shaw and Kevin Keovanpheng and general manager Aimee Arcilla. The three restaurant industry veterans volunteered their time, collaborating with Farming Hope apprentices to create a menu that included halibut sashimi, green curry beef and calamansi chiffon cake. Former \u003cem>Top Chef\u003c/em> contestant \u003ca href=\"https://funraise.org/give/Farming-Hope/72c4f0be-8354-4138-bfb5-7a675bf10571/\">Tu David Phu is slated to be the next guest on August 8\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Working with a panoply of eclectic chefs exposes apprentices to a wide set of beliefs and viewpoints in the kitchen, apart from Farming Hope’s own lessons.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The cool thing is that not everyone comes into our program wanting to be a chef, but no one regrets learning how to cook better,” Sobrepeña says. “It gives tools to learn how to eat healthier and support their personal values. There’s value in the garden-to-table process and understanding food systems, sustainability and cooking philosophies from different chefs. That all gets carried forward.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In addition, Farming Hope is in the process of formalizing an externship with Good Good Culture Club, where trainees can continue learning about service and cooking techniques in a real-world restaurant setting.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13916971\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13916971\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57462_006_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"corn is being roasted on a stovetop by an apprentice in the kitchen of Reffetorio\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57462_006_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57462_006_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57462_006_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57462_006_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57462_006_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS57462_006_KQEDArts_FarmingHope_07272022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maria Burgos roasts corn at Reffetorio. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s a reminder that the local food industry can provide much more than just a night out or good eats—it’s an active network of support and sustenance. Farming Hope embodies that by providing a livelihood and pathway forward for those who never thought they’d be creating a plate of crying tiger shrimp with coconut-makrut cream and crispy butter beans.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Food is such a connector and a baseline need for everyone that it breaks down barriers in ways that not every job training program can,” says Sobrepeña, “It helps that our team enters this with open eyes and hearts; we’re all ready for the challenges of this work.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">You can visit Farming Hope at one of their two San Francisco locations: Manny’s (3092 16th St.) or Refettorio (149 Fell St.). \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/farminghope/?hl=en\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Check their Instagram\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for additional information on upcoming guest chefs and more.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "azalina-malaysian-restaurant-reopening-tenderloin",
"title": "The Return of Azalina’s: The Groundbreaking Malaysian Restaurant Is Reborn in the Tenderloin",
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"headTitle": "The Return of Azalina’s: The Groundbreaking Malaysian Restaurant Is Reborn in the Tenderloin | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Azalina Eusope fought the good fight. As probably the Bay Area’s most famous Malaysian chef, she kept her two San Francisco restaurants open for as long as she could, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/21559441/sf-indoor-dining-shutdown-coronavirus-chef-reactions-mahila-benu-nari-eight-tables\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">burning through her personal savings to avoid layoffs\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> during the roughest stretches of the pandemic. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It wasn’t enough: Last March, Eusope \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Inventive-Malaysian-restaurant-Mahila-permanently-16012250.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">closed Mahila\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, her love letter to Mamak street food—the food of her people, Muslim Malysians who speak Tamil and have roots in India. She also shut down Azalina’s Malaysian, her more casual food stall in the Twitter building. It was a heartbreaking end of a chapter for a business that Eusope had built up over the course of a decade, one bowl of noodles and jar of fiery sambal at a time.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But now, Eusope, who describes herself as a fifth-generation street vendor, is ready to give it another go. In a little over a month, she’ll open a new incarnation of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.azalinas.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Azalina’s\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at 499 Ellis St. in the Tenderloin. The first day of service is tentatively slated for September 1.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For fans of Eusope’s bold-flavored food, Azalina’s 2.0 will be a reintroduction to many of the chef’s most popular dishes: smoky, wok-charred hokkien mee; coconut-filled sweet potato dumplings; and nests of steamed rice noodles known as rice hoppers. These are dishes you’d be hard-pressed to find at any other Malaysian restaurant in the Bay.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13916803\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2038px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13916803\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Mee-Mamak-credit-Jane-Sim-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"In the foreground, a bowl of turmeric noodles topped with greens, scallions, a charred lemon, and a fried egg.\" width=\"2038\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Mee-Mamak-credit-Jane-Sim-scaled.jpg 2038w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Mee-Mamak-credit-Jane-Sim-800x1005.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Mee-Mamak-credit-Jane-Sim-1020x1281.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Mee-Mamak-credit-Jane-Sim-160x201.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Mee-Mamak-credit-Jane-Sim-768x965.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Mee-Mamak-credit-Jane-Sim-1223x1536.jpg 1223w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Mee-Mamak-credit-Jane-Sim-1630x2048.jpg 1630w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Mee-Mamak-credit-Jane-Sim-1920x2412.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2038px) 100vw, 2038px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Azalina Eusope’s mee mamak, one of her signature dishes at Mahila, will occasionally show up on the menu at the new Tenderloin location of Azalina’s. \u003ccite>(Jane Sim)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“There are 16 states in Malaysia. There are 30 million people,” Eusope says. But despite the amazing diversity of food in her home country, she says most Malaysian restaurants in the U.S. all serve the same 10 dishes. The new Azalina’s won’t be as tightly focused on Mamak dishes, specifically, but Eusope says her overarching goal will be the same: to expand the way that most Americans think about Malaysian food. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We’re not going to make another laksa. We’re not going to make another satay,” she says. “There are thousands of Malaysian dishes that people don’t know about.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At least to start, Eusope’s plan is to keep things simple. The new Azalina’s will be open for dinner Thursday through Sunday, with a prix-fixe tasting menu only—about five courses, with drink pairings included, for $100 a person. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Tenderloin restaurant only seats about 35 people, so the idea is to create an intimate dining experience. “Imagine you’re walking in the evening in the streets of Penang,” where, as Eusope explains, life doesn’t really start until nighttime. The dining room will be lit up with string lights, so diners feel like they’re sitting outside at one of the island’s open-air markets. And dinner will consist of the kinds of dishes you’d eat while wandering from food stall to food stall.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13916804\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1186px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13916804\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Rendered-Floor-Plan-5-copy.jpg\" alt=\"A color sketch of one section of the new Azalina's dining room. Text reads "Perspective of East Wall."\" width=\"1186\" height=\"821\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Rendered-Floor-Plan-5-copy.jpg 1186w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Rendered-Floor-Plan-5-copy-800x554.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Rendered-Floor-Plan-5-copy-1020x706.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Rendered-Floor-Plan-5-copy-160x111.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Rendered-Floor-Plan-5-copy-768x532.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1186px) 100vw, 1186px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sketch of one section of the new Azalina’s dining room. \u003ccite>(Sketch by Lisa Klien; design created by Academy of Art students Patricia Hernandez, Lisa Klien, Jayden Lu and Krinal Patel with guidance from Tom Collom)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Dinner might include a plate of char kway teow, a sizzling stir-fried noodle dish. It might include Eusope’s wildly popular \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/137174/check-please-bay-area-presents-mahilas-mamak-fried-chicken\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mamak-style fried chicken\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> or rice hoppers served with curry. There might be yong tau foo—fish paste stuffed inside of tofu and all kinds of different vegetables. There will probably be some kind of soup. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Every dish will be paired with a drink, and Eusope plans to switch up the menu every two weeks or so. “We want to make it really fun,” she says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Originally, Eusope had planned to open a kopitiam, or Malaysian-Chinese coffee shop, called \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/8/10/21361781/azalina-eusope-uncle-sok-hee-malaysian-chinese-coffee-kopitiam-tenderloin-laksa-kaya-toast\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Uncle Sok Hee\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at the Tenderloin location. The restaurant was meant to be a tribute to her father, a Penang street vendor who spent much of his life selling noodles in front of these coffee shops. Eusope remembers accompanying him as a kid, helping her father sell lottery tickets to the kopitiam customers. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Eusope won’t rule out the possibility of a stand-alone kopitiam at some point in the future, but she says the pandemic taught her to really treasure time with her family. She’s not sure if she’ll ever have the bandwidth again to run multiple restaurants at one time. (Eusope’s two children, now ages 20 and 22, both help out with the family business whenever they can.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13916805\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1706px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13916805\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/bethaniehines-32-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Azalina Eusope poses for a portrait wearing a blue shirt and pink pants.\" width=\"1706\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/bethaniehines-32-scaled.jpg 1706w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/bethaniehines-32-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/bethaniehines-32-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/bethaniehines-32-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/bethaniehines-32-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/bethaniehines-32-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/bethaniehines-32-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1706px) 100vw, 1706px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Azalina Eusope describes herself as a fifth-generation Mamak street food vendor. \u003ccite>(Bethanie Hines)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13908798,checkplease_20669']Still, she says the idea behind Uncle Sok Hee will live on at the new Azalina’s, where many of the dishes will be the kinds of things that you would find served at a kopitiam in Malaysia. That will be especially true when the restaurant starts weekend brunch service, when the $50 prix-fixe will include things like kaya toast cooked on a charcoal grill, hokkien mee and Malaysian-style coffee and tea brewed tableside. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“My goal has always been the same—to honor every single aspect of my experience growing up,” Eusope says. “Food is very emotional, right? I feel it whenever someone’s eating something, even the smell of it. It somehow triggers some kind of thing in our soul.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Azalina’s is located at 499 Ellis St. in San Francisco. The restaurant is tentatively slated to open on September 1. Reservations, available via Resy, will be required.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Azalina Eusope will serve rice hoppers and kaya toast in the space where she’d planned to open a Malaysian coffee shop.\r\n",
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"title": "The Return of Azalina’s: The Groundbreaking Malaysian Restaurant Is Reborn in the Tenderloin | KQED",
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"headline": "The Return of Azalina’s: The Groundbreaking Malaysian Restaurant Is Reborn in the Tenderloin",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Azalina Eusope fought the good fight. As probably the Bay Area’s most famous Malaysian chef, she kept her two San Francisco restaurants open for as long as she could, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/21559441/sf-indoor-dining-shutdown-coronavirus-chef-reactions-mahila-benu-nari-eight-tables\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">burning through her personal savings to avoid layoffs\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> during the roughest stretches of the pandemic. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It wasn’t enough: Last March, Eusope \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Inventive-Malaysian-restaurant-Mahila-permanently-16012250.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">closed Mahila\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, her love letter to Mamak street food—the food of her people, Muslim Malysians who speak Tamil and have roots in India. She also shut down Azalina’s Malaysian, her more casual food stall in the Twitter building. It was a heartbreaking end of a chapter for a business that Eusope had built up over the course of a decade, one bowl of noodles and jar of fiery sambal at a time.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But now, Eusope, who describes herself as a fifth-generation street vendor, is ready to give it another go. In a little over a month, she’ll open a new incarnation of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.azalinas.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Azalina’s\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at 499 Ellis St. in the Tenderloin. The first day of service is tentatively slated for September 1.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For fans of Eusope’s bold-flavored food, Azalina’s 2.0 will be a reintroduction to many of the chef’s most popular dishes: smoky, wok-charred hokkien mee; coconut-filled sweet potato dumplings; and nests of steamed rice noodles known as rice hoppers. These are dishes you’d be hard-pressed to find at any other Malaysian restaurant in the Bay.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13916803\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2038px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13916803\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Mee-Mamak-credit-Jane-Sim-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"In the foreground, a bowl of turmeric noodles topped with greens, scallions, a charred lemon, and a fried egg.\" width=\"2038\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Mee-Mamak-credit-Jane-Sim-scaled.jpg 2038w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Mee-Mamak-credit-Jane-Sim-800x1005.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Mee-Mamak-credit-Jane-Sim-1020x1281.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Mee-Mamak-credit-Jane-Sim-160x201.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Mee-Mamak-credit-Jane-Sim-768x965.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Mee-Mamak-credit-Jane-Sim-1223x1536.jpg 1223w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Mee-Mamak-credit-Jane-Sim-1630x2048.jpg 1630w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Mee-Mamak-credit-Jane-Sim-1920x2412.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2038px) 100vw, 2038px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Azalina Eusope’s mee mamak, one of her signature dishes at Mahila, will occasionally show up on the menu at the new Tenderloin location of Azalina’s. \u003ccite>(Jane Sim)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“There are 16 states in Malaysia. There are 30 million people,” Eusope says. But despite the amazing diversity of food in her home country, she says most Malaysian restaurants in the U.S. all serve the same 10 dishes. The new Azalina’s won’t be as tightly focused on Mamak dishes, specifically, but Eusope says her overarching goal will be the same: to expand the way that most Americans think about Malaysian food. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We’re not going to make another laksa. We’re not going to make another satay,” she says. “There are thousands of Malaysian dishes that people don’t know about.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At least to start, Eusope’s plan is to keep things simple. The new Azalina’s will be open for dinner Thursday through Sunday, with a prix-fixe tasting menu only—about five courses, with drink pairings included, for $100 a person. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Tenderloin restaurant only seats about 35 people, so the idea is to create an intimate dining experience. “Imagine you’re walking in the evening in the streets of Penang,” where, as Eusope explains, life doesn’t really start until nighttime. The dining room will be lit up with string lights, so diners feel like they’re sitting outside at one of the island’s open-air markets. And dinner will consist of the kinds of dishes you’d eat while wandering from food stall to food stall.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13916804\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1186px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13916804\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Rendered-Floor-Plan-5-copy.jpg\" alt=\"A color sketch of one section of the new Azalina's dining room. Text reads "Perspective of East Wall."\" width=\"1186\" height=\"821\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Rendered-Floor-Plan-5-copy.jpg 1186w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Rendered-Floor-Plan-5-copy-800x554.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Rendered-Floor-Plan-5-copy-1020x706.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Rendered-Floor-Plan-5-copy-160x111.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/Rendered-Floor-Plan-5-copy-768x532.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1186px) 100vw, 1186px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sketch of one section of the new Azalina’s dining room. \u003ccite>(Sketch by Lisa Klien; design created by Academy of Art students Patricia Hernandez, Lisa Klien, Jayden Lu and Krinal Patel with guidance from Tom Collom)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Dinner might include a plate of char kway teow, a sizzling stir-fried noodle dish. It might include Eusope’s wildly popular \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/137174/check-please-bay-area-presents-mahilas-mamak-fried-chicken\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mamak-style fried chicken\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> or rice hoppers served with curry. There might be yong tau foo—fish paste stuffed inside of tofu and all kinds of different vegetables. There will probably be some kind of soup. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Every dish will be paired with a drink, and Eusope plans to switch up the menu every two weeks or so. “We want to make it really fun,” she says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Originally, Eusope had planned to open a kopitiam, or Malaysian-Chinese coffee shop, called \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/8/10/21361781/azalina-eusope-uncle-sok-hee-malaysian-chinese-coffee-kopitiam-tenderloin-laksa-kaya-toast\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Uncle Sok Hee\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at the Tenderloin location. The restaurant was meant to be a tribute to her father, a Penang street vendor who spent much of his life selling noodles in front of these coffee shops. Eusope remembers accompanying him as a kid, helping her father sell lottery tickets to the kopitiam customers. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Eusope won’t rule out the possibility of a stand-alone kopitiam at some point in the future, but she says the pandemic taught her to really treasure time with her family. She’s not sure if she’ll ever have the bandwidth again to run multiple restaurants at one time. (Eusope’s two children, now ages 20 and 22, both help out with the family business whenever they can.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13916805\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1706px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13916805\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/bethaniehines-32-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Azalina Eusope poses for a portrait wearing a blue shirt and pink pants.\" width=\"1706\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/bethaniehines-32-scaled.jpg 1706w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/bethaniehines-32-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/bethaniehines-32-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/bethaniehines-32-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/bethaniehines-32-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/bethaniehines-32-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/bethaniehines-32-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1706px) 100vw, 1706px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Azalina Eusope describes herself as a fifth-generation Mamak street food vendor. \u003ccite>(Bethanie Hines)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Still, she says the idea behind Uncle Sok Hee will live on at the new Azalina’s, where many of the dishes will be the kinds of things that you would find served at a kopitiam in Malaysia. That will be especially true when the restaurant starts weekend brunch service, when the $50 prix-fixe will include things like kaya toast cooked on a charcoal grill, hokkien mee and Malaysian-style coffee and tea brewed tableside. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“My goal has always been the same—to honor every single aspect of my experience growing up,” Eusope says. “Food is very emotional, right? I feel it whenever someone’s eating something, even the smell of it. It somehow triggers some kind of thing in our soul.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Azalina’s is located at 499 Ellis St. in San Francisco. The restaurant is tentatively slated to open on September 1. Reservations, available via Resy, will be required.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "enter-the-wildly-cheesy-world-of-korean-corn-dogs-at-stix",
"title": "Enter the Wildly Cheesy World of Korean Corn Dogs at STIX",
"publishDate": 1658513350,
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"headTitle": "Enter the Wildly Cheesy World of Korean Corn Dogs at STIX | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Korean corn dogs are not for the faint of stomach. With eye-popping size and a multitude of customizable ingredients, the show-stopping dogs on a stick have earned their keep among Instagrammers and TikTokers from Seoul to San Francisco with their fun geometric shapes and extra-stretchy cheese fillings. \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bon Appétit \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">even officially named 2021 “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/korean-corn-dogs\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the Year of the Korean Corn Dog.\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Popularized on social media through videos of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/B0BXjLZBq2j/\">slow-motion pull of cheese\u003c/a> with each bite, these corn dogs are a hyperized version of the American corn dog, with bigger, bolder and chewier options. You might get a ramen dog coated in panko with mozzarella cheese and wasabi mayo. Or, you can try a sugar-dusted fried-potato version with a beef wiener that’s drizzled with mustard. You can also mix up your options, like adding a half-beef, half-cheese filling, with Hot Cheetos crumbs and spicy mayo as dressing. There are no limits to the culinary imagination you can fit into your stomach. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CUVm_upPL9Q/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These stylized takes on the corn dog have been a staple in South Korea since 2016, but until recently they’ve been relatively elusive in the Bay. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/myungranghotdogcupertino/?hl=en\">The Korean originator of these corn dogs, the Myungrang Hot Dog\u003c/a> chain, opened its first Bay Area location in Cupertino last summer, but \u003ca href=\"https://www.stixcorndogs.com/\">STIX\u003c/a>—a locally-owned take on the doggies—was the first to bring the craze to San Francisco proper in 2019. Between massive bites of a cornflake-and-sugar crusted corn dog, I caught up with STIX co-founder Emily Hui at her new shop in Burlingame to chat about how she brought one of social media’s biggest food trends to our region.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">********\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: How would you describe a Korean corn dog to someone who doesn’t know what it is?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We get a lot of customers who don’t know what it is, actually—but afterwards they love it. American corn dogs use cornmeal for batter, but Korean uses regular flour and primarily rice flour. With rice flour, it gives the dough a really light, crispy and slightly chewy texture that is similar to mochi. For the interior we use all-beef hot dogs or mozzarella cheese. We serve a combo dog as well, which is half and half. But what makes Korean corn dogs special is that after skewering the hot dogs and cheese, the corn dogs are rolled in different toppings. Depending on what the customer wants, we have panko, french fries, Hot Cheetos, cornflakes, sugar and various other toppings to add to the texture and flavor. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003ccenter>\u003ciframe loading=\"lazy\" width=\"981\" height=\"557\" src=\"https://www.youtube.com/embed/7hzzap33Bhs\" title=\"Best Sandwich in San Francisco\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe>\u003c/center>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>When did the original STIX in the Sunset District open, and when did you add the Burlingame location? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My husband [Michael] and I opened the Sunset location in 2019. My husband grew up in San Francisco and went to high school right up the street, at Lincoln. There are a lot of mom-and-pop shops around here. When we first visualized starting a business, we wanted to do something together, just for us. We wanted to create something that was all our own. The Sunset was the perfect location. It’s very family oriented and neighborhood friendly—it feels personal. We only do to-go orders from there, since it’s a smaller storefront. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We opened the Burlingame location in February [2022]. Downtown Burlingame is more high-end, and there’s big chains there. You can dine in at that location and the interior is remodeled. It seems like less people know what Korean corn dogs are, but they come in surprised and leave loving our food. It makes me feel really happy when we can introduce people to them.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13916486\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13916486 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0946-800x1299.jpg\" alt=\"menu displaying the many food and drink options available at STIX in Burlingame\" width=\"800\" height=\"1299\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0946-800x1299.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0946-1020x1656.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0946-160x260.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0946-768x1247.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0946-946x1536.jpg 946w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0946-1262x2048.jpg 1262w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0946-1920x3117.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0946-scaled.jpg 1577w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">STIX menu is a choose-your-own-adventure experience for adventurous foodies. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What inspired you to bring Korean corn dogs to the Bay Area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I always wanted to open a restaurant but wasn’t sure what food to serve. I’m a foodie, so I’m on Instagram checking out the food trends and what new restaurants are out there. In 2018, the Korean corn dog was already starting to trend in the U.S. There were a few spots in LA but there wasn’t much in the Bay Area—and it was only in the South Bay. It’s funny because you think of San Francisco having a diverse foodie scene, but I was surprised that no one had opened a Korean corn dog restaurant. That’s when we decided to just do it ourselves. We had to bring it to San Francisco, and we did. It took trial and error to get the recipe right—the batter and the amount of it. But we eventually figured it out. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Do you know the origin of the Korean corn dog?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s originally from South Korea’s night market scene. Street food [in Asia] is just big—lots of fun, creative foods. The first time we tried the corn dog was actually on a trip to Asia in 2019. It was all over in Taiwan, Japan, Hong Kong. We ate one in Japan. It was wow, just really delicious and I wanted more.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You also serve boba and french fries, in addition to corn dogs. What are some of your most popular side items?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13916044,arts_13914585,arts_13913985']We serve curly fries. The deluxe version has nacho cheese and Hot Cheetos crumbs. That’s on the menu because I just like curly fries a lot (laughs). I also love nacho cheese and Hot Cheetos. People really love it as well. For our drinks, we have varieties of lemonades like mango, strawberry, and the pink guava cooler, which is popular. It’s just a sweet and refreshing juice. We also have typical milk teas that are flavored. The house special is the banana milk. It’s blended with a fresh banana and milk; it’s very creamy and fresh. We added it to the menu because corn dogs are heavy, fried foods. So it’s nice to have a refreshing drink with it.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your personal favorite combo to order?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Potato is our best seller. It’s just a fun crust option and goes with anything. But I surprisingly like the regular. It’s panko covered. It’s crispy and not too heavy when you eat it. My husband likes the Flamin’ Hot Dog. It’s a Flamin’ Hot Cheetos corn dog. You can’t go wrong with that. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Whenever you’re not eating Korean corn dogs, what are some of your favorite places for other Asian-inspired foods in the Bay Area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We really love ramen\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—we go to HiroNori in San Mateo for that. There’s also a really good \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/21299/check-please-you-gotta-try-this-reviews-swedish-pancakes-kalbijjim-lamb-beef-shawarma\">Korean braised beef dish at Daeho Kalbijjim & Beef Soup\u003c/a>. And for Japanese curry, we go to Volcano Kitchen. We try to support small, independent businesses in the area as much as we can.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13916487\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13916487 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0983-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"neon signage displayed on the restaurant's wall that reads: "That's what cheese said!"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0983-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0983-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0983-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0983-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0983-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0983-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0983-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Decorations inside the shop. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003carticle class=\"routes-Site-routes-Post-components-Post-components-PostMinisite-___PostMinisite__mpost\">\n\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: left\">\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/stixsf/?hl=en\">STIX\u003c/a> San Francisco (\u003cspan class=\"LrzXr\">1353 Taraval St.) \u003c/span>is open every day except Wednesday; STIX Burlingame (\u003cspan class=\"LrzXr\">355 Broadway)\u003c/span> is open every day except Tuesday. Check their page for specific hours, which vary from noon to 6:30 or 7 pm closing.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003c/article>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Korean corn dogs are not for the faint of stomach. With eye-popping size and a multitude of customizable ingredients, the show-stopping dogs on a stick have earned their keep among Instagrammers and TikTokers from Seoul to San Francisco with their fun geometric shapes and extra-stretchy cheese fillings. \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bon Appétit \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">even officially named 2021 “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/korean-corn-dogs\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the Year of the Korean Corn Dog.\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Popularized on social media through videos of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/B0BXjLZBq2j/\">slow-motion pull of cheese\u003c/a> with each bite, these corn dogs are a hyperized version of the American corn dog, with bigger, bolder and chewier options. You might get a ramen dog coated in panko with mozzarella cheese and wasabi mayo. Or, you can try a sugar-dusted fried-potato version with a beef wiener that’s drizzled with mustard. You can also mix up your options, like adding a half-beef, half-cheese filling, with Hot Cheetos crumbs and spicy mayo as dressing. There are no limits to the culinary imagination you can fit into your stomach. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These stylized takes on the corn dog have been a staple in South Korea since 2016, but until recently they’ve been relatively elusive in the Bay. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/myungranghotdogcupertino/?hl=en\">The Korean originator of these corn dogs, the Myungrang Hot Dog\u003c/a> chain, opened its first Bay Area location in Cupertino last summer, but \u003ca href=\"https://www.stixcorndogs.com/\">STIX\u003c/a>—a locally-owned take on the doggies—was the first to bring the craze to San Francisco proper in 2019. Between massive bites of a cornflake-and-sugar crusted corn dog, I caught up with STIX co-founder Emily Hui at her new shop in Burlingame to chat about how she brought one of social media’s biggest food trends to our region.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">********\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: How would you describe a Korean corn dog to someone who doesn’t know what it is?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We get a lot of customers who don’t know what it is, actually—but afterwards they love it. American corn dogs use cornmeal for batter, but Korean uses regular flour and primarily rice flour. With rice flour, it gives the dough a really light, crispy and slightly chewy texture that is similar to mochi. For the interior we use all-beef hot dogs or mozzarella cheese. We serve a combo dog as well, which is half and half. But what makes Korean corn dogs special is that after skewering the hot dogs and cheese, the corn dogs are rolled in different toppings. Depending on what the customer wants, we have panko, french fries, Hot Cheetos, cornflakes, sugar and various other toppings to add to the texture and flavor. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003ccenter>\u003ciframe loading=\"lazy\" width=\"981\" height=\"557\" src=\"https://www.youtube.com/embed/7hzzap33Bhs\" title=\"Best Sandwich in San Francisco\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe>\u003c/center>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>When did the original STIX in the Sunset District open, and when did you add the Burlingame location? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My husband [Michael] and I opened the Sunset location in 2019. My husband grew up in San Francisco and went to high school right up the street, at Lincoln. There are a lot of mom-and-pop shops around here. When we first visualized starting a business, we wanted to do something together, just for us. We wanted to create something that was all our own. The Sunset was the perfect location. It’s very family oriented and neighborhood friendly—it feels personal. We only do to-go orders from there, since it’s a smaller storefront. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We opened the Burlingame location in February [2022]. Downtown Burlingame is more high-end, and there’s big chains there. You can dine in at that location and the interior is remodeled. It seems like less people know what Korean corn dogs are, but they come in surprised and leave loving our food. It makes me feel really happy when we can introduce people to them.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13916486\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13916486 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0946-800x1299.jpg\" alt=\"menu displaying the many food and drink options available at STIX in Burlingame\" width=\"800\" height=\"1299\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0946-800x1299.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0946-1020x1656.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0946-160x260.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0946-768x1247.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0946-946x1536.jpg 946w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0946-1262x2048.jpg 1262w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0946-1920x3117.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0946-scaled.jpg 1577w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">STIX menu is a choose-your-own-adventure experience for adventurous foodies. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What inspired you to bring Korean corn dogs to the Bay Area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I always wanted to open a restaurant but wasn’t sure what food to serve. I’m a foodie, so I’m on Instagram checking out the food trends and what new restaurants are out there. In 2018, the Korean corn dog was already starting to trend in the U.S. There were a few spots in LA but there wasn’t much in the Bay Area—and it was only in the South Bay. It’s funny because you think of San Francisco having a diverse foodie scene, but I was surprised that no one had opened a Korean corn dog restaurant. That’s when we decided to just do it ourselves. We had to bring it to San Francisco, and we did. It took trial and error to get the recipe right—the batter and the amount of it. But we eventually figured it out. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Do you know the origin of the Korean corn dog?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s originally from South Korea’s night market scene. Street food [in Asia] is just big—lots of fun, creative foods. The first time we tried the corn dog was actually on a trip to Asia in 2019. It was all over in Taiwan, Japan, Hong Kong. We ate one in Japan. It was wow, just really delicious and I wanted more.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You also serve boba and french fries, in addition to corn dogs. What are some of your most popular side items?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>We serve curly fries. The deluxe version has nacho cheese and Hot Cheetos crumbs. That’s on the menu because I just like curly fries a lot (laughs). I also love nacho cheese and Hot Cheetos. People really love it as well. For our drinks, we have varieties of lemonades like mango, strawberry, and the pink guava cooler, which is popular. It’s just a sweet and refreshing juice. We also have typical milk teas that are flavored. The house special is the banana milk. It’s blended with a fresh banana and milk; it’s very creamy and fresh. We added it to the menu because corn dogs are heavy, fried foods. So it’s nice to have a refreshing drink with it.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your personal favorite combo to order?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Potato is our best seller. It’s just a fun crust option and goes with anything. But I surprisingly like the regular. It’s panko covered. It’s crispy and not too heavy when you eat it. My husband likes the Flamin’ Hot Dog. It’s a Flamin’ Hot Cheetos corn dog. You can’t go wrong with that. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Whenever you’re not eating Korean corn dogs, what are some of your favorite places for other Asian-inspired foods in the Bay Area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We really love ramen\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—we go to HiroNori in San Mateo for that. There’s also a really good \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/21299/check-please-you-gotta-try-this-reviews-swedish-pancakes-kalbijjim-lamb-beef-shawarma\">Korean braised beef dish at Daeho Kalbijjim & Beef Soup\u003c/a>. And for Japanese curry, we go to Volcano Kitchen. We try to support small, independent businesses in the area as much as we can.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13916487\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13916487 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0983-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"neon signage displayed on the restaurant's wall that reads: "That's what cheese said!"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0983-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0983-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0983-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0983-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0983-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0983-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_0983-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Decorations inside the shop. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003carticle class=\"routes-Site-routes-Post-components-Post-components-PostMinisite-___PostMinisite__mpost\">\n\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: left\">\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/stixsf/?hl=en\">STIX\u003c/a> San Francisco (\u003cspan class=\"LrzXr\">1353 Taraval St.) \u003c/span>is open every day except Wednesday; STIX Burlingame (\u003cspan class=\"LrzXr\">355 Broadway)\u003c/span> is open every day except Tuesday. Check their page for specific hours, which vary from noon to 6:30 or 7 pm closing.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003c/article>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Taiwan Bento, a Pioneer of the East Bay’s Taiwanese Food Scene, Is Closing",
"headTitle": "Taiwan Bento, a Pioneer of the East Bay’s Taiwanese Food Scene, Is Closing | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When Stacy Tang first opened \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.taiwanbento.us/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Taiwan Bento\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in downtown Oakland in 2014, customers routinely asked whether the restaurant served Thai food or Japanese takeout. No one seemed to have even heard of Taiwanese beef noodle soup, so Tang and her husband, Willy Wang, spent an inordinate amount of time each day explaining how Taiwan’s national dish differed from ramen or pho.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Eight years later, the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897272/bay-area-taiwanese-food-scene-nostalgia\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">landscape of Taiwanese cuisine in the Bay Area is completely different\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, thanks in part to Tang’s scrappy little restaurant, which served many local, non-Taiwanese customers their first gua bao, their first classic Taiwanese pork chop over rice. “Right now, it’s easier to be yourself,” Tang says. “Because people know more about [Taiwanese food], you don’t need a lot of explanation.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s more than a little bittersweet, then, that Tang and Wang have decided to close Taiwan Bento at the end of this month, marking the end of an era for one of the real pioneers of Taiwanese food culture in the Bay Area. The restaurant’s last day of business will be Friday, July 29.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897347\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1981px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897347\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/048_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021.jpg\" alt=\"Stacy Tang holds a steamed bun in the kitchen at her restaurant, Taiwan Bento.\" width=\"1981\" height=\"1321\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/048_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021.jpg 1981w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/048_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/048_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/048_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/048_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/048_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/048_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1981px) 100vw, 1981px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stacy Tang (left) prepares some steamed bao at her Oakland restaurant, Taiwan Bento. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">According to Tang, it’s closing due to a combination of factors. Of course, the pandemic has been brutal, and Tang says Taiwan Bento is still dealing with the same COVID-related staffing shortages and financial pressures that have put so many other local restaurants through the wringer. Still, she says of the pandemic, “We actually made it through it.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">More immediately, Tang says she needs to take some time away from the industry in order to be with her family. Last year was especially tough: In Taiwan, her godfather passed away, and her mother underwent a major surgical procedure. But because of the daily pressures of running a restaurant, she never had a chance to plan a trip there. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I wasn’t able to see my family and take care of my mom,” she says. “That time with family—if you miss it, you miss it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With the restaurant’s lease set to expire at the end of the month, Tang says she just couldn’t see herself committing to another five years. But looking back on it now, she says she’s proud of the business she built from the ground up. As a brand new immigrant who only moved to the United States in 2012, just two years before she opened the restaurant, she says the first few years were incredibly challenging because of how naive and inexperienced she was about running a business in the U.S. “Every day was overwhelming for me,” she says. At one point, when she was still tweaking the restaurant’s initial set of recipes, she says she became so stressed that she lost her sense of taste for nearly a month.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While the South Bay has a fairly long, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897830/taiwanese-restaurants-silicon-valley-cupertino-tech\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">established history of Taiwanese restaurants\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, there were almost none in the Oakland and Berkeley area back in the early and mid-2010s. Still, slowly but surely, the restaurant built up a following. It was one of the first non-boba shop businesses in the area to serve Taiwanese popcorn chicken—properly garnished, of course, with plenty of fried basil. It was one of the only East Bay restaurants where you could get Taiwanese-style beef noodle soup on a consistent basis. More recently, it became the first restaurant in Oakland that would occasionally serve \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897868/taiwanese-breakfast-bay-area\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Taiwanese breakfast\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897876\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1761px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897876\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/005_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a takeout box with sticky rice rolls, scallion egg pancake, and other Taiwanese breakfast items from Taiwan Bento.\" width=\"1761\" height=\"1174\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/005_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021.jpg 1761w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/005_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/005_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/005_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/005_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/005_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1761px) 100vw, 1761px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Starting in 2021, Taiwan Bento hosted occasional Taiwanese breakfast pop-ups, where it would serve hard-to-find dishes such as fan tuan and dan bing. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These days, Tang says, she doesn’t have to justify or explain her Taiwanese menu.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13897272,arts_13897868,arts_13901982']“Now more and more people are coming, and they say, ‘gua bao’ or even ‘lu rou fan,’” she says, using the Mandarin names for dishes she used to have to translate using Westernized terms like “pork belly sandwich.” And after the restaurant was featured in an episode of KQED’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/21212/check-please-you-gotta-try-this-reviews-beef-hot-dog-best-indian-pizza-fried-pork-chop-bento\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">last year, it got an influx of older customers of all races—in their 60s, 70s and even 90s—who came to the restaurant wanting to try Taiwanese food for the first time.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Some became regulars,” Tang says. “That’s truly amazing.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tang and Wang say they won’t rule out the possibility of opening some new incarnation of Taiwan Bento somewhere down the line, especially if they’re able to figure out a way to do it while striking a better work-life balance. For now, however, Tang is focused on helping her staff secure new jobs, saying final farewells and closing out the restaurant’s last two weeks of service right. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After that? She’ll be buying a one-way ticket to Taiwan.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.taiwanbento.us/\">Taiwan Bento\u003c/a> is open 11:30 am–8 pm at 412 22nd St. in Oakland. The restaurant’s last day of business will be Friday, July 29.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When Stacy Tang first opened \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.taiwanbento.us/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Taiwan Bento\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in downtown Oakland in 2014, customers routinely asked whether the restaurant served Thai food or Japanese takeout. No one seemed to have even heard of Taiwanese beef noodle soup, so Tang and her husband, Willy Wang, spent an inordinate amount of time each day explaining how Taiwan’s national dish differed from ramen or pho.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Eight years later, the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897272/bay-area-taiwanese-food-scene-nostalgia\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">landscape of Taiwanese cuisine in the Bay Area is completely different\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, thanks in part to Tang’s scrappy little restaurant, which served many local, non-Taiwanese customers their first gua bao, their first classic Taiwanese pork chop over rice. “Right now, it’s easier to be yourself,” Tang says. “Because people know more about [Taiwanese food], you don’t need a lot of explanation.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s more than a little bittersweet, then, that Tang and Wang have decided to close Taiwan Bento at the end of this month, marking the end of an era for one of the real pioneers of Taiwanese food culture in the Bay Area. The restaurant’s last day of business will be Friday, July 29.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897347\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1981px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897347\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/048_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021.jpg\" alt=\"Stacy Tang holds a steamed bun in the kitchen at her restaurant, Taiwan Bento.\" width=\"1981\" height=\"1321\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/048_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021.jpg 1981w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/048_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/048_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/048_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/048_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/048_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/048_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1981px) 100vw, 1981px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stacy Tang (left) prepares some steamed bao at her Oakland restaurant, Taiwan Bento. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">According to Tang, it’s closing due to a combination of factors. Of course, the pandemic has been brutal, and Tang says Taiwan Bento is still dealing with the same COVID-related staffing shortages and financial pressures that have put so many other local restaurants through the wringer. Still, she says of the pandemic, “We actually made it through it.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">More immediately, Tang says she needs to take some time away from the industry in order to be with her family. Last year was especially tough: In Taiwan, her godfather passed away, and her mother underwent a major surgical procedure. But because of the daily pressures of running a restaurant, she never had a chance to plan a trip there. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I wasn’t able to see my family and take care of my mom,” she says. “That time with family—if you miss it, you miss it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With the restaurant’s lease set to expire at the end of the month, Tang says she just couldn’t see herself committing to another five years. But looking back on it now, she says she’s proud of the business she built from the ground up. As a brand new immigrant who only moved to the United States in 2012, just two years before she opened the restaurant, she says the first few years were incredibly challenging because of how naive and inexperienced she was about running a business in the U.S. “Every day was overwhelming for me,” she says. At one point, when she was still tweaking the restaurant’s initial set of recipes, she says she became so stressed that she lost her sense of taste for nearly a month.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While the South Bay has a fairly long, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897830/taiwanese-restaurants-silicon-valley-cupertino-tech\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">established history of Taiwanese restaurants\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, there were almost none in the Oakland and Berkeley area back in the early and mid-2010s. Still, slowly but surely, the restaurant built up a following. It was one of the first non-boba shop businesses in the area to serve Taiwanese popcorn chicken—properly garnished, of course, with plenty of fried basil. It was one of the only East Bay restaurants where you could get Taiwanese-style beef noodle soup on a consistent basis. More recently, it became the first restaurant in Oakland that would occasionally serve \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897868/taiwanese-breakfast-bay-area\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Taiwanese breakfast\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897876\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1761px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897876\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/005_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a takeout box with sticky rice rolls, scallion egg pancake, and other Taiwanese breakfast items from Taiwan Bento.\" width=\"1761\" height=\"1174\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/005_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021.jpg 1761w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/005_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/005_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/005_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/005_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/005_KQEDArts_TaiwanBento_05082021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1761px) 100vw, 1761px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Starting in 2021, Taiwan Bento hosted occasional Taiwanese breakfast pop-ups, where it would serve hard-to-find dishes such as fan tuan and dan bing. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These days, Tang says, she doesn’t have to justify or explain her Taiwanese menu.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“Now more and more people are coming, and they say, ‘gua bao’ or even ‘lu rou fan,’” she says, using the Mandarin names for dishes she used to have to translate using Westernized terms like “pork belly sandwich.” And after the restaurant was featured in an episode of KQED’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/21212/check-please-you-gotta-try-this-reviews-beef-hot-dog-best-indian-pizza-fried-pork-chop-bento\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">last year, it got an influx of older customers of all races—in their 60s, 70s and even 90s—who came to the restaurant wanting to try Taiwanese food for the first time.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Some became regulars,” Tang says. “That’s truly amazing.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tang and Wang say they won’t rule out the possibility of opening some new incarnation of Taiwan Bento somewhere down the line, especially if they’re able to figure out a way to do it while striking a better work-life balance. For now, however, Tang is focused on helping her staff secure new jobs, saying final farewells and closing out the restaurant’s last two weeks of service right. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After that? She’ll be buying a one-way ticket to Taiwan.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.taiwanbento.us/\">Taiwan Bento\u003c/a> is open 11:30 am–8 pm at 412 22nd St. in Oakland. The restaurant’s last day of business will be Friday, July 29.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve been on a vegan kick lately. Maybe after visiting my family in Mexico—a trip that began with tacos al pastor, continued with tacos al pastor and ended with tacos al pastor—I subconsciously reverted to a cleaner, lighter diet upon my return to California. Luckily, the Bay Area is one of the country’s leading regions for vegan options, as evidenced by events like \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13915889/berkeley-vegan-food-festival-bizerkeley-vegan\">The Bizerkeley Food Festival\u003c/a> later this summer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This week I linked up with \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theveganhoodchefs/?hl=en\">The Vegan Hood Chefs\u003c/a>, a popular duo from San Francisco who serve bomb, Southern-inspired comfort foods while “revolutionizing hood nutrition.” They are part of a larger wave of Black vegan entrepreneurs in the Bay Area, including \u003ca href=\"https://souleyvegan.com/\">Souley Vegan\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://veganmob.biz/\">Vegan Mob\u003c/a>, who are redefining what vegan food can be for diverse communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plant-based po’ boys with oyster mushrooms? Giant plates of jambalaya using vegan sausage, bell peppers, onions, garlic, rice and celery? Marinated chunks of breaded jackfruit fried in Cajun spices? The Vegan Hood Chefs have got it all. And like any true Bay Area hustlers, they’re everywhere with it, posting up in the Mission, Stockton, Oakland and beyond—anywhere they can serve their flavorful heritage to hungry folks who might not yet know the pleasures of veganism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13916056\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13916056 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1388-800x533.jpg\" alt='two plates of vegan french fries on a table outside in front of the Vegan Hood Chefs food truck. A printed slogan on the side of the truck says \"revolutionizing hood nutrition\"' width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1388-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1388-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1388-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1388-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1388-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1388-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1388-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jambalaya fries, left, and birria fries, right, served by the Vegan Hood Chefs \u003ccite>(Briana Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When I met them in a parking lot on 18th and Valencia, \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ronnishia Johnson-Hasan \u003c/span>(a licensed clinical social worker, mother and family caretaker from Hunters Point) and her business partner, Rheema Calloway (chef, caretaker and community organizer from Lakeview), were blasting Bay Area anthems from a sound system and dishing up mounds of vegan goodies, including four varieties of “loaded” french fries: Jackfruit Birria (spiced jackfruit, cilantro, diced onions, and vegan cheese sauce), Surf and Turf (Konjac Root Skrimp and Lions Maine “steak” with creamy Alfredo sauce), Jambalaya (vegan parmesan garlic butter and vegan jambalaya) and Poke (coconut-marinated papaya, seaweed, wasabi mayo and hearts of palm “Krab”).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was more than enough to excite any vegan eater—whether full-time, part-time, or first-time. I took a seat with them to hear about how it all started.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">*****\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: When did you each begin your individual journeys as vegans?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ronnishia: I started my transition into veganism in 2010, 2011. I was an undergrad at Texas Southern University, and we were roommates. I had hypertension blood pressure, so my boyfriend at the time educated me on a plant-based diet, my weight and overall health. I did more research and I started the process. I cut out red meat, and eventually over 10 to 12 years I became full vegan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rheema: We were best friends. When she started her transition in college I thought she was crazy—she was eating differently and cut all her hair off. But when we graduated and came home [to San Francisco], we started to learn more about food justice. She challenged me to do a fast with her, so we did it for 30 days. I realized how much energy I had and how good I felt afterward. I was a struggling pescatarian at first, and then around 2012 I transitioned to being vegan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How did The Vegan Hood Chefs start?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ronnishia: It started in 2017. We started this journey by wanting to eat healthy. We lived in a food desert as Black folks. Most of our work is in our own communities, which are food deserts, where people aren’t having conversations around veganism in a culturally connected way. We wanted our families and folks we love to join the conversation about food justice. And we didn’t see people like us leading those conversations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first, we started a food page on Instagram to raise awareness on what we were eating and cooking. We didn’t plan to start a business at all. Then, one of our friends at the time was hosting an event and their caterer backed out at the last minute, so she asked us to do it instead. At the time, we had a partner in culinary school—my cousin—and we figured we could try to do it together. My day job used a kitchen whenever we needed to cook for kids, so we used that. [That first event] we cooked for 200 people and it sold out. That spread through word of mouth and online and it took off from there. It just filled a need in the community around veganism and eating healthy as a healing practice in Black and Brown communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s an example of a dish on your menu that is popular?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rheema: The Sucka Free Poboy is special. We’re intentional about naming our items. It’s based on San Francisco [“Sucka Free City”] and how we speak here, but inspired by our grandmothers, who are both from Louisiana. We grew up eating this. Our Po’boy uses oyster mushrooms battered in the way our grandmothers would do it. It’s fried, with lettuce, tomatoes, purple cabbage, green onions and topped with our house sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ronnishia: Also, the bread we use is super awesome. It’s from Acme, a local bakery. \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Our mushrooms are sourced by Far West Fungi!\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How does your food reflect your connection to the Bay Area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ronnishia: I’m from Hunters Point and Rheema is from Lakeview. It’s printed on our truck. We have a deep connection to our heritage and culture, but also to The City. A lot of families migrated here from the South to work in the shipyards, so there’s a deep relationship to places like Louisiana and Texas. We bring that out in our food with the names and ingredients we choose. We want you to get our experience as Black folks living in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rheema: We’re all over the Bay, too. The beauty of the truck is that we get to honor who we are, but also meet people where they’re at. We’ve been from S.F. to Richmond to Oakland to Stockton to Sacramento to Santa Cruz to San Ramon to Sonoma County and back. It’s dope. We’re popping up everywhere. We also did that when we didn’t have the truck, but now it’s about giving more accessibility in our communities. We’ve also been partnering with Bay Area businesses like \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Natrully Herbs\u003c/span> in Richmond, a Black-owned collaborative space with smoothies and alkaline foods, which is a step above vegan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What challenges have you overcome with running an independent business?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ronnishia: Lack of representation. We started off in this industry without any real knowledge around how to run a food business. Fortunately, we picked that up along the way. But it’s often difficult for communities of color to have the capital to start a business, even when we’re being innovative. It makes you doubt yourself. Lacking access to mentorship and support, we had to figure out how we do it all as we go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, it’s difficult to be a Black woman in a male-dominated industry. It feels like we have to work 10 times as hard to be taken seriously and have the same opportunities. The food industry is fast-paced and changing, so there’s always a need to pivot and keep your business sustainable. During the pandemic we were affected—before we had a food truck—and we had to completely revamp our model from pop-ups and home events to using social media more and engaging our audience. It’s hard to find good, reliable staff too. That’s happening all over the food industry right now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13916057\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13916057 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1412-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"one side of the Vegan Hood Chefs' truck shares their mission, which is to honor the heritage, sacredness and practices of cultural foods\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1412-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1412-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1412-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1412-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1412-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1412-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1412-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Vegan Hood Chefs are on a mission to “honor the heritage, sacredness, and practices of cultural foods.” \u003ccite>(Briana Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>When you’re not eating your own food, where do you go to grub on vegan dishes?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rheema: Our top favorite is Om Sabor, on Grove Street [in San Francisco]. It’s Latinx inspired and influenced. They make the best muthafuckin’ \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">krab sushi and food fusions\u003c/span>. The enchiladas there are hella good. They do vegan plates that you can share in groups. Golden Lotus, in Oakland. Comidadejen, Casa Borinqueña and \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Koquito\u003c/span>, Puerto Rican-infused places.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ronnishia: Malibu Burgers in Piedmont is good. We go to Wildseed a lot; they have a delicious mushroom pizza we love. There’s great Ethiopian food like Oasis Cafe in Fillmore. \u003ca href=\"https://www.caferomanat.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Café Romanat\u003c/span>\u003c/a> in Oakland. Vegan Solstice in Stockton, which hosts pop-ups. Vegan Heat, Black-owned, that’s a pop-up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rheema: Oh, what’s our favorite ice cream place called? \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kubè Nice Cream in Oakland\u003c/span>. They have this coconut and key lime ice cream. Oh my gosh. It’s hella good. Makes you wanna slap your momma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are you cooking up next?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ronnishia: We’re working on a cookbook that should be coming out towards the end of this year. We’re working on more online content as well—we want to tap into creating more video content, to provide resources around how to shop and where to start being vegan. This work is something we really enjoy, and these are the conversations we have with people from our communities who visit our truck. We have a blog we utilize somewhat—which the Bizerkeley Vegan used to write for—but we haven’t been able to do that as much lately. Our main mission is to just keep connecting and educating our community, and to cook in as many ways as possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rheema: We’re in the Mission a lot. You can’t miss us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theveganhoodchefs/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Vegan Hood Chefs\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> regularly rotate menus and locations. Check their social media pages for updates on where they’ll be next.\u003c/span>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve been on a vegan kick lately. Maybe after visiting my family in Mexico—a trip that began with tacos al pastor, continued with tacos al pastor and ended with tacos al pastor—I subconsciously reverted to a cleaner, lighter diet upon my return to California. Luckily, the Bay Area is one of the country’s leading regions for vegan options, as evidenced by events like \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13915889/berkeley-vegan-food-festival-bizerkeley-vegan\">The Bizerkeley Food Festival\u003c/a> later this summer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This week I linked up with \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theveganhoodchefs/?hl=en\">The Vegan Hood Chefs\u003c/a>, a popular duo from San Francisco who serve bomb, Southern-inspired comfort foods while “revolutionizing hood nutrition.” They are part of a larger wave of Black vegan entrepreneurs in the Bay Area, including \u003ca href=\"https://souleyvegan.com/\">Souley Vegan\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://veganmob.biz/\">Vegan Mob\u003c/a>, who are redefining what vegan food can be for diverse communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plant-based po’ boys with oyster mushrooms? Giant plates of jambalaya using vegan sausage, bell peppers, onions, garlic, rice and celery? Marinated chunks of breaded jackfruit fried in Cajun spices? The Vegan Hood Chefs have got it all. And like any true Bay Area hustlers, they’re everywhere with it, posting up in the Mission, Stockton, Oakland and beyond—anywhere they can serve their flavorful heritage to hungry folks who might not yet know the pleasures of veganism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13916056\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13916056 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1388-800x533.jpg\" alt='two plates of vegan french fries on a table outside in front of the Vegan Hood Chefs food truck. A printed slogan on the side of the truck says \"revolutionizing hood nutrition\"' width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1388-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1388-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1388-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1388-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1388-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1388-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1388-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jambalaya fries, left, and birria fries, right, served by the Vegan Hood Chefs \u003ccite>(Briana Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When I met them in a parking lot on 18th and Valencia, \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ronnishia Johnson-Hasan \u003c/span>(a licensed clinical social worker, mother and family caretaker from Hunters Point) and her business partner, Rheema Calloway (chef, caretaker and community organizer from Lakeview), were blasting Bay Area anthems from a sound system and dishing up mounds of vegan goodies, including four varieties of “loaded” french fries: Jackfruit Birria (spiced jackfruit, cilantro, diced onions, and vegan cheese sauce), Surf and Turf (Konjac Root Skrimp and Lions Maine “steak” with creamy Alfredo sauce), Jambalaya (vegan parmesan garlic butter and vegan jambalaya) and Poke (coconut-marinated papaya, seaweed, wasabi mayo and hearts of palm “Krab”).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was more than enough to excite any vegan eater—whether full-time, part-time, or first-time. I took a seat with them to hear about how it all started.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">*****\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: When did you each begin your individual journeys as vegans?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ronnishia: I started my transition into veganism in 2010, 2011. I was an undergrad at Texas Southern University, and we were roommates. I had hypertension blood pressure, so my boyfriend at the time educated me on a plant-based diet, my weight and overall health. I did more research and I started the process. I cut out red meat, and eventually over 10 to 12 years I became full vegan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rheema: We were best friends. When she started her transition in college I thought she was crazy—she was eating differently and cut all her hair off. But when we graduated and came home [to San Francisco], we started to learn more about food justice. She challenged me to do a fast with her, so we did it for 30 days. I realized how much energy I had and how good I felt afterward. I was a struggling pescatarian at first, and then around 2012 I transitioned to being vegan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How did The Vegan Hood Chefs start?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ronnishia: It started in 2017. We started this journey by wanting to eat healthy. We lived in a food desert as Black folks. Most of our work is in our own communities, which are food deserts, where people aren’t having conversations around veganism in a culturally connected way. We wanted our families and folks we love to join the conversation about food justice. And we didn’t see people like us leading those conversations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first, we started a food page on Instagram to raise awareness on what we were eating and cooking. We didn’t plan to start a business at all. Then, one of our friends at the time was hosting an event and their caterer backed out at the last minute, so she asked us to do it instead. At the time, we had a partner in culinary school—my cousin—and we figured we could try to do it together. My day job used a kitchen whenever we needed to cook for kids, so we used that. [That first event] we cooked for 200 people and it sold out. That spread through word of mouth and online and it took off from there. It just filled a need in the community around veganism and eating healthy as a healing practice in Black and Brown communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s an example of a dish on your menu that is popular?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rheema: The Sucka Free Poboy is special. We’re intentional about naming our items. It’s based on San Francisco [“Sucka Free City”] and how we speak here, but inspired by our grandmothers, who are both from Louisiana. We grew up eating this. Our Po’boy uses oyster mushrooms battered in the way our grandmothers would do it. It’s fried, with lettuce, tomatoes, purple cabbage, green onions and topped with our house sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ronnishia: Also, the bread we use is super awesome. It’s from Acme, a local bakery. \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Our mushrooms are sourced by Far West Fungi!\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How does your food reflect your connection to the Bay Area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ronnishia: I’m from Hunters Point and Rheema is from Lakeview. It’s printed on our truck. We have a deep connection to our heritage and culture, but also to The City. A lot of families migrated here from the South to work in the shipyards, so there’s a deep relationship to places like Louisiana and Texas. We bring that out in our food with the names and ingredients we choose. We want you to get our experience as Black folks living in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rheema: We’re all over the Bay, too. The beauty of the truck is that we get to honor who we are, but also meet people where they’re at. We’ve been from S.F. to Richmond to Oakland to Stockton to Sacramento to Santa Cruz to San Ramon to Sonoma County and back. It’s dope. We’re popping up everywhere. We also did that when we didn’t have the truck, but now it’s about giving more accessibility in our communities. We’ve also been partnering with Bay Area businesses like \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Natrully Herbs\u003c/span> in Richmond, a Black-owned collaborative space with smoothies and alkaline foods, which is a step above vegan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What challenges have you overcome with running an independent business?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ronnishia: Lack of representation. We started off in this industry without any real knowledge around how to run a food business. Fortunately, we picked that up along the way. But it’s often difficult for communities of color to have the capital to start a business, even when we’re being innovative. It makes you doubt yourself. Lacking access to mentorship and support, we had to figure out how we do it all as we go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, it’s difficult to be a Black woman in a male-dominated industry. It feels like we have to work 10 times as hard to be taken seriously and have the same opportunities. The food industry is fast-paced and changing, so there’s always a need to pivot and keep your business sustainable. During the pandemic we were affected—before we had a food truck—and we had to completely revamp our model from pop-ups and home events to using social media more and engaging our audience. It’s hard to find good, reliable staff too. That’s happening all over the food industry right now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13916057\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13916057 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1412-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"one side of the Vegan Hood Chefs' truck shares their mission, which is to honor the heritage, sacredness and practices of cultural foods\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1412-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1412-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1412-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1412-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1412-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1412-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/07/IMG_1412-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Vegan Hood Chefs are on a mission to “honor the heritage, sacredness, and practices of cultural foods.” \u003ccite>(Briana Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>When you’re not eating your own food, where do you go to grub on vegan dishes?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rheema: Our top favorite is Om Sabor, on Grove Street [in San Francisco]. It’s Latinx inspired and influenced. They make the best muthafuckin’ \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">krab sushi and food fusions\u003c/span>. The enchiladas there are hella good. They do vegan plates that you can share in groups. Golden Lotus, in Oakland. Comidadejen, Casa Borinqueña and \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Koquito\u003c/span>, Puerto Rican-infused places.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ronnishia: Malibu Burgers in Piedmont is good. We go to Wildseed a lot; they have a delicious mushroom pizza we love. There’s great Ethiopian food like Oasis Cafe in Fillmore. \u003ca href=\"https://www.caferomanat.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Café Romanat\u003c/span>\u003c/a> in Oakland. Vegan Solstice in Stockton, which hosts pop-ups. Vegan Heat, Black-owned, that’s a pop-up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rheema: Oh, what’s our favorite ice cream place called? \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kubè Nice Cream in Oakland\u003c/span>. They have this coconut and key lime ice cream. Oh my gosh. It’s hella good. Makes you wanna slap your momma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are you cooking up next?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ronnishia: We’re working on a cookbook that should be coming out towards the end of this year. We’re working on more online content as well—we want to tap into creating more video content, to provide resources around how to shop and where to start being vegan. This work is something we really enjoy, and these are the conversations we have with people from our communities who visit our truck. We have a blog we utilize somewhat—which the Bizerkeley Vegan used to write for—but we haven’t been able to do that as much lately. Our main mission is to just keep connecting and educating our community, and to cook in as many ways as possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rheema: We’re in the Mission a lot. You can’t miss us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"mindshift": {
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
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"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"pri-the-world": {
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"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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},
"reveal": {
"id": "reveal",
"title": "Reveal",
"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.revealnews.org/episodes/",
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},
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