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"content": "\u003cp>Back in November of 2020, during those calamitous peak-pandemic days when nearly every Bay Area restaurant seemed to teeter on the brink of collapse, Tee Tran made one of the most consequential decisions of his cooking career: He decided that his Oakland restaurant, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/monsterpho/\">Monster Phở\u003c/a>, would give away its phở for free.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For one day, anyway, Tran would serve free phở to regular customers, houseless folks, foodies, people who’d lost their jobs or were otherwise down on their luck, or anyone else whose day might be brightened by a free hot meal. No questions asked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It should come as no surprise that free phở day, a.k.a. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DCGETnjpJwp/\">Phở for the People\u003c/a>, was a hit. And over the years, the giveaway has become Monster Phở’s signature event. The annual tradition heads into its fifth year this coming Monday, Nov. 25, from 10 a.m.–3 p.m. — this time featuring a guest performance by \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DCXO6RqyU4p/\">Seiji Oda\u003c/a>, one of the Bay Area rap scene’s rising stars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The event is the one day a year Tran believes most directly expresses his values as a restaurateur and a son of Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I just open the doors to everybody,” Tran says. “We have people who’ve never tried us before who stop on by. Less fortunate people still show up — they take buses here or they share a car. They bring their cousins and their little sisters.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This is what Monster Phở is known for,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13968426\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13968426\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-free-event.jpg\" alt='A man gestures toward a sign that reads, \"Pho for the People.\" An older woman next to him smiles for the camera.' width=\"2000\" height=\"1856\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-free-event.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-free-event-800x742.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-free-event-1020x947.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-free-event-160x148.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-free-event-768x713.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-free-event-1536x1425.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-free-event-1920x1782.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tran (right) and his mother at the inaugural Phở for the People event, in November 2020. \u003ccite>(Lori Eanes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Of course, back during the seemingly endless restaurant shutdowns of 2020, Monster Phở itself had months where business shriveled down to almost nothing. It was during those hard times, however, that Tran says he remembered how his mother, Tina Le — whose recipes are the inspiration for Monster Phở — had raised him since their family \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/99879/tee-trans-monster-pho-conquers-oakland-with-traditional-vietnamese-cooking\">first settled in Oakland as refugees in 1989\u003c/a>, when Tran was five years old.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“She taught me to be grateful for what we have, and if we have extra, we have to help other people,” Tran says. “She’s like my boxing coach on the corner. She’s teaching me and training me to be a better human being.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, even as he struggled to keep Monster Phở afloat, Tran started looking for ways he could give back to the community — to all the people in Oakland who were hurting at that time. According to Tran, Monster Phở had always prided itself in being the kind of place that would welcome houseless folks in for a free meal or drink from time to time. Now, during the pandemic, he formalized those efforts. The restaurant started giving away bags of free produce to elderly and immunocompromised people who were isolated at home. And right around Thanksgiving time in 2020, it hosted its first phở giveaway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At least two notable East Bay residents noticed Monster Phở’s extensive community work: In a moving \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCbW0kKDTA0\">segment of the \u003ci>Tamron Hall Show\u003c/i>\u003c/a>, Steph and Ayesha Curry sang Tran’s praises and surprised him with a $25,000 check — ostensibly to help save his restaurant. Instead, Tran decided to use every cent of that money to give away even more phở. And so, over the course of about three weeks, Monster Phở gave away nearly 2,500 meals, many of them going to some of Oakland’s most vulnerable residents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13968429\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13968429\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-beef.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of beef pho.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-beef.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-beef-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-beef-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-beef-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-beef-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-beef-1536x1025.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-beef-1920x1281.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The beef pho at Monster Pho. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Monster Pho)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It isn’t lost on Tran, either, that what he’s giving away isn’t just any food item. It’s phở, a soup that’s so deeply comforting and wholesome that many enthusiasts ascribe to it almost magical healing properties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I think about it every single day. The process to make phở can take up to 24 hours to do it correctly — to cook the bones thoroughly and clean them, to taste and retaste and get everything to the right temperature,” he says. “It’s a rare amenity. To give that away? Oh my God, it’s the best feeling in the world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13967120,arts_13930458,arts_13957194']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>While $25,000 worth of free phở will be hard to ever top, Tran has looked for ways to make Phở for the People even more impactful with each passing year. This year, in addition to the phở giveaway, Tran is also hosting a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DB2UmnOyuq4/?img_index=1\">toy drive\u003c/a> at the restaurant during the entire month of November — inspired, he says, by the one he remembers from his first Christmas in the U.S., when his own parents didn’t have money to buy him presents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oakland rapper Seiji Oda was so inspired by the toy drive idea that he reached out to Tran and offered to help promote it. So, this year’s Phở for the People will be a concert too: The \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13957194/seiji-oda-bay-area-rap-lo-fi-minimalist-hyphy\">idiosyncratic, “lo-fi” hip-hop star\u003c/a> will take the stage for an outdoor performance at noon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the phở giveaway itself will be set up outside, takeaway style. Everyone in line will get their choice of beef, chicken or vegetarian phở packed up to go, plus a bottle of water. “There’s no judgment,” Tran says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tran acknowledges that the tenor of the public conversations around issues like homelessness and public safety in Oakland isn’t always characterized by a lot of empathy, but he says he tries not to get involved in the politics of today’s news cycle. Instead, his goal is just to do “one good deed” — and hopefully, in the process, to inspire others, especially young people, to do the same.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I feel like it’s my calling, if I have an opportunity to help the community that helped raise me,” Tran says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Phở for the People will take place on Monday, Nov. 25, 10 a.m.–3 p.m. (or as long as supplies last) at Monster Phở (360 40th St., Oakland). Monster Phở will be collecting toys through the end of November. To nominate a child to receive presents during the restaurant’s Christmas event, on Dec. 15, email care@monsterpho.com or send the restaurant an \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/monsterpho/\">\u003ci>Instagram DM\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This is what Monster Phở is known for,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13968426\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13968426\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-free-event.jpg\" alt='A man gestures toward a sign that reads, \"Pho for the People.\" An older woman next to him smiles for the camera.' width=\"2000\" height=\"1856\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-free-event.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-free-event-800x742.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-free-event-1020x947.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-free-event-160x148.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-free-event-768x713.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-free-event-1536x1425.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-free-event-1920x1782.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tran (right) and his mother at the inaugural Phở for the People event, in November 2020. \u003ccite>(Lori Eanes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Of course, back during the seemingly endless restaurant shutdowns of 2020, Monster Phở itself had months where business shriveled down to almost nothing. It was during those hard times, however, that Tran says he remembered how his mother, Tina Le — whose recipes are the inspiration for Monster Phở — had raised him since their family \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/99879/tee-trans-monster-pho-conquers-oakland-with-traditional-vietnamese-cooking\">first settled in Oakland as refugees in 1989\u003c/a>, when Tran was five years old.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“She taught me to be grateful for what we have, and if we have extra, we have to help other people,” Tran says. “She’s like my boxing coach on the corner. She’s teaching me and training me to be a better human being.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, even as he struggled to keep Monster Phở afloat, Tran started looking for ways he could give back to the community — to all the people in Oakland who were hurting at that time. According to Tran, Monster Phở had always prided itself in being the kind of place that would welcome houseless folks in for a free meal or drink from time to time. Now, during the pandemic, he formalized those efforts. The restaurant started giving away bags of free produce to elderly and immunocompromised people who were isolated at home. And right around Thanksgiving time in 2020, it hosted its first phở giveaway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At least two notable East Bay residents noticed Monster Phở’s extensive community work: In a moving \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCbW0kKDTA0\">segment of the \u003ci>Tamron Hall Show\u003c/i>\u003c/a>, Steph and Ayesha Curry sang Tran’s praises and surprised him with a $25,000 check — ostensibly to help save his restaurant. Instead, Tran decided to use every cent of that money to give away even more phở. And so, over the course of about three weeks, Monster Phở gave away nearly 2,500 meals, many of them going to some of Oakland’s most vulnerable residents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13968429\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13968429\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-beef.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of beef pho.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-beef.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-beef-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-beef-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-beef-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-beef-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-beef-1536x1025.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/monster-pho-beef-1920x1281.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The beef pho at Monster Pho. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Monster Pho)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It isn’t lost on Tran, either, that what he’s giving away isn’t just any food item. It’s phở, a soup that’s so deeply comforting and wholesome that many enthusiasts ascribe to it almost magical healing properties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I think about it every single day. The process to make phở can take up to 24 hours to do it correctly — to cook the bones thoroughly and clean them, to taste and retaste and get everything to the right temperature,” he says. “It’s a rare amenity. To give that away? Oh my God, it’s the best feeling in the world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>While $25,000 worth of free phở will be hard to ever top, Tran has looked for ways to make Phở for the People even more impactful with each passing year. This year, in addition to the phở giveaway, Tran is also hosting a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DB2UmnOyuq4/?img_index=1\">toy drive\u003c/a> at the restaurant during the entire month of November — inspired, he says, by the one he remembers from his first Christmas in the U.S., when his own parents didn’t have money to buy him presents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oakland rapper Seiji Oda was so inspired by the toy drive idea that he reached out to Tran and offered to help promote it. So, this year’s Phở for the People will be a concert too: The \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13957194/seiji-oda-bay-area-rap-lo-fi-minimalist-hyphy\">idiosyncratic, “lo-fi” hip-hop star\u003c/a> will take the stage for an outdoor performance at noon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the phở giveaway itself will be set up outside, takeaway style. Everyone in line will get their choice of beef, chicken or vegetarian phở packed up to go, plus a bottle of water. “There’s no judgment,” Tran says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tran acknowledges that the tenor of the public conversations around issues like homelessness and public safety in Oakland isn’t always characterized by a lot of empathy, but he says he tries not to get involved in the politics of today’s news cycle. Instead, his goal is just to do “one good deed” — and hopefully, in the process, to inspire others, especially young people, to do the same.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I feel like it’s my calling, if I have an opportunity to help the community that helped raise me,” Tran says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Phở for the People will take place on Monday, Nov. 25, 10 a.m.–3 p.m. (or as long as supplies last) at Monster Phở (360 40th St., Oakland). Monster Phở will be collecting toys through the end of November. To nominate a child to receive presents during the restaurant’s Christmas event, on Dec. 15, email care@monsterpho.com or send the restaurant an \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/monsterpho/\">\u003ci>Instagram DM\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Chef and TV host Prue Leith may be an exacting judge with contestants on \u003cem>The Great British Baking Show\u003c/em>. But when it comes to the rest of us, she thinks we could all cut ourselves a bit of slack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s the idea behind her new cookbook published in October, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.copperfieldsbooks.com/book/9780711292505\">Life’s Too Short to Stuff a Mushroom\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. The book offers 80 globally inspired recipes (think masala poppadom nachos and avocado and wasabi dip) that don’t require any complicated or fussy techniques.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13936820']It also comes with a big bonus: dozens of “Prue’s Handy Hacks,” tips and shortcuts that Leith has learned in her 65-year culinary career. That includes how to rescue over-whipped cream (a common \u003cem>Baking Show\u003c/em> dilemma), peel ginger with a spoon and easily peel a pineapple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When cooks don’t have the right food prep skills, they feel “anxious and think, ‘Why should I bother?’” says Leith. But if you have a little know-how, cooking “is actually quite a pleasure.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leith shares a few tricks from her book to help you reduce waste and prepare tricky foods with ease.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13968264\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1581px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13968264\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-book.png\" alt=\"A book cover featuring a smiling, senior woman wearing an apron, pink sweater and holding a martini glass. Plates of food sit on the counter in front of her.\" width=\"1581\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-book.png 1581w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-book-800x1012.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-book-1020x1290.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-book-160x202.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-book-768x972.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-book-1214x1536.png 1214w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1581px) 100vw, 1581px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">‘Life’s Too Short to Stuff a Mushroom,’ by Prue Leith. \u003ccite>(Carnival)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Level up your cooking game with “Prue’s Handy Hacks”\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>🍋 Use a lemon to rescue hardened brown sugar. \u003c/strong>Put the brown sugar in an airtight container with a whole lemon. Close the lid, wait a couple days and it will be soft again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>🧄 Smash a clove of garlic to peel it more quickly. \u003c/strong>Cut the root end and tip end off, then take “a jam jar or the flat blade of a knife and just squash it,” says Leith. “As soon as you hear the skin breaking with a crack,” you should easily find the peel and remove it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>🍍Take the rind off a whole pineapple in just six slices. \u003c/strong>Grab a big knife and cut the top and bottom of the pineapple off. Then stand it up “and just slice down the sides straight down to get the four cheeks off,” says Leith. The fruit is ready to cut any way you like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>🫚 Use a spoon to peel your ginger. \u003c/strong>“Ginger is so difficult to peel because it’s a funny, odd shape,” says Leith. To make it easier, grab an ordinary teaspoon, stick it under the skin of the ginger and start scraping. When you get to the nubby bits, just use a little more elbow grease. (Watch the video above to see how Leith does it!)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leith loves to use ginger in drinks “to give it a bit of a kick,” especially ginger beer with a little lime juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>🍦Bring back over-whipped cream with a bit of cream. \u003c/strong>If you see that your cream has started to go grainy and “suddenly gets a bit too stiff,” stop whisking and add in a little cream to try and rescue it, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If your over-whipped cream has “lumps of what is in fact butter,” she says, the trick won’t work. But don’t throw it away. Keep whisking to turn the rest of the cream into butter, then add herbs — “and you’ve made a sort of maitre d’hotel butter.” It’s perfect on top of steak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>🧁 Prevent your cupcake and muffin liners from getting greasy with a little bit of uncooked rice. \u003c/strong>“Just put one teaspoon of dry, uncooked rice in between the muffin liner and the tin. It will absorb any kind of grease or fat,” she says. It also makes the baked muffin easy to pull out of the tray.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>🍌 Turn your overripe banana (even its skin) into a smoothie. \u003c/strong>Instead of chucking that banana into the compost bin, wash it, cut the two hard ends off and “liquidize the whole thing, including the skin” in a blender, says Leith. The black skin of a banana has loads of good stuff in it: fiber, polyunsaturated fats and amino acids. As you whizz it up, add milk and lots of cinnamon. “If you really want a treat, put a blob of vanilla ice cream.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13968265\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1372px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13968265\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-smooth.png\" alt=\"A senior woman wearing colorful clothes and accessories pours a milky liquid from.a blender into a glass.\" width=\"1372\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-smooth.png 1372w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-smooth-800x1166.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-smooth-1020x1487.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-smooth-160x233.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-smooth-768x1120.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-smooth-1054x1536.png 1054w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1372px) 100vw, 1372px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prue Leith makes a smoothie using overripe bananas — skin and all. (She does cut off the tip and tail.) \u003ccite>(Ant Duncan/Carnival Publishing)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>🧀 Keep opened feta cheese from going rancid by storing it in salted water. \u003c/strong>“Feta needs to be kept under salted water if it’s to be kept for a long time,” says Leith. “Either that, or eat it straight away.” Place the feta in a lidded container, submerge it in water with a tablespoon of salt and store it in the fridge. It’ll last for weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Find more “Prue’s Handy Hacks” in Leith’s cookbook, \u003ca href=\"https://www.copperfieldsbooks.com/book/9780711292505\">\u003cem>\u003cu>Life’s Too Short to Stuff A Mushroom\u003c/u>\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, along with QR codes to video demonstrations.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This digital story was written by Malaka Gharib. It was edited by Meghan Keane. The visual editor is Beck Harlan.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Want more Life Kit? Subscribe to our weekly newsletter and get expert advice on topics like money, relationships, health and more. \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://n.pr/3xN1tB9\">\u003cem>\u003cu>Click here to subscribe now\u003c/u>\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>It also comes with a big bonus: dozens of “Prue’s Handy Hacks,” tips and shortcuts that Leith has learned in her 65-year culinary career. That includes how to rescue over-whipped cream (a common \u003cem>Baking Show\u003c/em> dilemma), peel ginger with a spoon and easily peel a pineapple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When cooks don’t have the right food prep skills, they feel “anxious and think, ‘Why should I bother?’” says Leith. But if you have a little know-how, cooking “is actually quite a pleasure.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leith shares a few tricks from her book to help you reduce waste and prepare tricky foods with ease.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13968264\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1581px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13968264\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-book.png\" alt=\"A book cover featuring a smiling, senior woman wearing an apron, pink sweater and holding a martini glass. Plates of food sit on the counter in front of her.\" width=\"1581\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-book.png 1581w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-book-800x1012.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-book-1020x1290.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-book-160x202.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-book-768x972.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-book-1214x1536.png 1214w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1581px) 100vw, 1581px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">‘Life’s Too Short to Stuff a Mushroom,’ by Prue Leith. \u003ccite>(Carnival)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Level up your cooking game with “Prue’s Handy Hacks”\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>🍋 Use a lemon to rescue hardened brown sugar. \u003c/strong>Put the brown sugar in an airtight container with a whole lemon. Close the lid, wait a couple days and it will be soft again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>🧄 Smash a clove of garlic to peel it more quickly. \u003c/strong>Cut the root end and tip end off, then take “a jam jar or the flat blade of a knife and just squash it,” says Leith. “As soon as you hear the skin breaking with a crack,” you should easily find the peel and remove it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>🍍Take the rind off a whole pineapple in just six slices. \u003c/strong>Grab a big knife and cut the top and bottom of the pineapple off. Then stand it up “and just slice down the sides straight down to get the four cheeks off,” says Leith. The fruit is ready to cut any way you like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>🫚 Use a spoon to peel your ginger. \u003c/strong>“Ginger is so difficult to peel because it’s a funny, odd shape,” says Leith. To make it easier, grab an ordinary teaspoon, stick it under the skin of the ginger and start scraping. When you get to the nubby bits, just use a little more elbow grease. (Watch the video above to see how Leith does it!)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leith loves to use ginger in drinks “to give it a bit of a kick,” especially ginger beer with a little lime juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>🍦Bring back over-whipped cream with a bit of cream. \u003c/strong>If you see that your cream has started to go grainy and “suddenly gets a bit too stiff,” stop whisking and add in a little cream to try and rescue it, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If your over-whipped cream has “lumps of what is in fact butter,” she says, the trick won’t work. But don’t throw it away. Keep whisking to turn the rest of the cream into butter, then add herbs — “and you’ve made a sort of maitre d’hotel butter.” It’s perfect on top of steak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>🧁 Prevent your cupcake and muffin liners from getting greasy with a little bit of uncooked rice. \u003c/strong>“Just put one teaspoon of dry, uncooked rice in between the muffin liner and the tin. It will absorb any kind of grease or fat,” she says. It also makes the baked muffin easy to pull out of the tray.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>🍌 Turn your overripe banana (even its skin) into a smoothie. \u003c/strong>Instead of chucking that banana into the compost bin, wash it, cut the two hard ends off and “liquidize the whole thing, including the skin” in a blender, says Leith. The black skin of a banana has loads of good stuff in it: fiber, polyunsaturated fats and amino acids. As you whizz it up, add milk and lots of cinnamon. “If you really want a treat, put a blob of vanilla ice cream.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13968265\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1372px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13968265\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-smooth.png\" alt=\"A senior woman wearing colorful clothes and accessories pours a milky liquid from.a blender into a glass.\" width=\"1372\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-smooth.png 1372w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-smooth-800x1166.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-smooth-1020x1487.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-smooth-160x233.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-smooth-768x1120.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/prue-smooth-1054x1536.png 1054w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1372px) 100vw, 1372px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prue Leith makes a smoothie using overripe bananas — skin and all. (She does cut off the tip and tail.) \u003ccite>(Ant Duncan/Carnival Publishing)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>🧀 Keep opened feta cheese from going rancid by storing it in salted water. \u003c/strong>“Feta needs to be kept under salted water if it’s to be kept for a long time,” says Leith. “Either that, or eat it straight away.” Place the feta in a lidded container, submerge it in water with a tablespoon of salt and store it in the fridge. It’ll last for weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Find more “Prue’s Handy Hacks” in Leith’s cookbook, \u003ca href=\"https://www.copperfieldsbooks.com/book/9780711292505\">\u003cem>\u003cu>Life’s Too Short to Stuff A Mushroom\u003c/u>\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, along with QR codes to video demonstrations.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This digital story was written by Malaka Gharib. It was edited by Meghan Keane. The visual editor is Beck Harlan.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Want more Life Kit? Subscribe to our weekly newsletter and get expert advice on topics like money, relationships, health and more. \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://n.pr/3xN1tB9\">\u003cem>\u003cu>Click here to subscribe now\u003c/u>\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>With all the cooking, feasting and leftover-keeping that comes with \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/holidays\">the holidays\u003c/a>, it can be hard to know how to keep food safe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13967120']Sometimes we just do what our families did growing up (like storing rice in the rice cooker all day). Sometimes we follow what feels like common sense (if it looks and smells alright, it should be OK to eat, right?). But experts urge a little more caution.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://savvyfs.com/meet-francine/\">\u003cu>Francine Shaw\u003c/u>\u003c/a>, a food safety specialist, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.fda.gov/about-fda/fda-organization/namandje-bumpus\">\u003cu>Namandjé Bumpus\u003c/u>\u003c/a>, principal deputy commissioner at the Food and Drug Administration, answer six honest questions about food prep and safe food handling. If you want to avoid giving your guests (and yourself) food poisoning this season, follow their advice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://npr.brightspotcdn.com/dims3/default/strip/false/crop/2500x3125+0+0/resize/1200/quality/75/format/jpeg/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fnpr-brightspot.s3.amazonaws.com%2F70%2F12%2F81d8c7a2454c85f386519a00828a%2Ffood-1.jpg\">\u003cfigcaption>\u003ccite> (Malaka Gharib/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://npr.brightspotcdn.com/dims3/default/strip/false/crop/2500x3125+0+0/resize/1200/quality/75/format/jpeg/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fnpr-brightspot.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fa8%2F0c%2F6ab780a84b569e110aaf2f140501%2Ffood-2.jpg\">\u003cfigcaption>\u003ccite> (Malaka Gharib/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://npr.brightspotcdn.com/dims3/default/strip/false/crop/2500x3125+0+0/resize/1200/quality/75/format/jpeg/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fnpr-brightspot.s3.amazonaws.com%2F88%2F26%2F0f03c019407dbb919614d273cf18%2Ffood-3.jpg\">\u003cfigcaption>\u003ccite> (Malaka Gharib/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://npr.brightspotcdn.com/dims3/default/strip/false/crop/2500x3125+0+0/resize/1200/quality/75/format/jpeg/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fnpr-brightspot.s3.amazonaws.com%2F6e%2F1e%2F99c241ca4470a4bb4f4e34a8bc6d%2Ffood-4.jpg\">\u003cfigcaption>\u003ccite> (Malaka Gharib/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://npr.brightspotcdn.com/dims3/default/strip/false/crop/2500x3125+0+0/resize/1200/quality/75/format/jpeg/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fnpr-brightspot.s3.amazonaws.com%2Faa%2Fb6%2F854572d54248b9ce2e49b546a2ea%2Ffood-5.jpg\">\u003cfigcaption>\u003ccite> (Malaka Gharib/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://npr.brightspotcdn.com/dims3/default/strip/false/crop/2500x3125+0+0/resize/1200/quality/75/format/jpeg/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fnpr-brightspot.s3.amazonaws.com%2F3d%2F8d%2F495f05e246dba22cc5b14c3f2a86%2Ffood-6.jpg\">\u003cfigcaption>\u003ccite> (Malaka Gharib/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://malakagharib.com\">Malaka Gharib\u003c/a> is a Filipino Egyptian American journalist and cartoonist. She is the author of the graphic memoirs ‘I Was Their American Dream’ and ‘It Won’t Always Be Like This.’ \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The comic was illustrated and written by Malaka Gharib and reported by Andee Tagle. The editor is Becky Harlan. Leave Life Kit a voicemail at \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"tel:2022169823\">\u003cem>202-216-9823\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, or email them at: \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"mailto:LifeKit@npr.org\">\u003cem>LifeKit@npr.org\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Listen to Life Kit on\u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://n.pr/3LdRb0X\">\u003cem> Apple Podcasts\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> and\u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://n.pr/3K3xVln\">\u003cem> Spotify\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, or sign up for the\u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://n.pr/3xN1tB9\">\u003cem> newsletter\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Sometimes we just do what our families did growing up (like storing rice in the rice cooker all day). Sometimes we follow what feels like common sense (if it looks and smells alright, it should be OK to eat, right?). But experts urge a little more caution.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://savvyfs.com/meet-francine/\">\u003cu>Francine Shaw\u003c/u>\u003c/a>, a food safety specialist, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.fda.gov/about-fda/fda-organization/namandje-bumpus\">\u003cu>Namandjé Bumpus\u003c/u>\u003c/a>, principal deputy commissioner at the Food and Drug Administration, answer six honest questions about food prep and safe food handling. If you want to avoid giving your guests (and yourself) food poisoning this season, follow their advice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://npr.brightspotcdn.com/dims3/default/strip/false/crop/2500x3125+0+0/resize/1200/quality/75/format/jpeg/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fnpr-brightspot.s3.amazonaws.com%2F70%2F12%2F81d8c7a2454c85f386519a00828a%2Ffood-1.jpg\">\u003cfigcaption>\u003ccite> (Malaka Gharib/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://npr.brightspotcdn.com/dims3/default/strip/false/crop/2500x3125+0+0/resize/1200/quality/75/format/jpeg/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fnpr-brightspot.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fa8%2F0c%2F6ab780a84b569e110aaf2f140501%2Ffood-2.jpg\">\u003cfigcaption>\u003ccite> (Malaka Gharib/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://npr.brightspotcdn.com/dims3/default/strip/false/crop/2500x3125+0+0/resize/1200/quality/75/format/jpeg/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fnpr-brightspot.s3.amazonaws.com%2F88%2F26%2F0f03c019407dbb919614d273cf18%2Ffood-3.jpg\">\u003cfigcaption>\u003ccite> (Malaka Gharib/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://npr.brightspotcdn.com/dims3/default/strip/false/crop/2500x3125+0+0/resize/1200/quality/75/format/jpeg/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fnpr-brightspot.s3.amazonaws.com%2F6e%2F1e%2F99c241ca4470a4bb4f4e34a8bc6d%2Ffood-4.jpg\">\u003cfigcaption>\u003ccite> (Malaka Gharib/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://npr.brightspotcdn.com/dims3/default/strip/false/crop/2500x3125+0+0/resize/1200/quality/75/format/jpeg/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fnpr-brightspot.s3.amazonaws.com%2Faa%2Fb6%2F854572d54248b9ce2e49b546a2ea%2Ffood-5.jpg\">\u003cfigcaption>\u003ccite> (Malaka Gharib/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://npr.brightspotcdn.com/dims3/default/strip/false/crop/2500x3125+0+0/resize/1200/quality/75/format/jpeg/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fnpr-brightspot.s3.amazonaws.com%2F3d%2F8d%2F495f05e246dba22cc5b14c3f2a86%2Ffood-6.jpg\">\u003cfigcaption>\u003ccite> (Malaka Gharib/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://malakagharib.com\">Malaka Gharib\u003c/a> is a Filipino Egyptian American journalist and cartoonist. She is the author of the graphic memoirs ‘I Was Their American Dream’ and ‘It Won’t Always Be Like This.’ \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The comic was illustrated and written by Malaka Gharib and reported by Andee Tagle. The editor is Becky Harlan. Leave Life Kit a voicemail at \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"tel:2022169823\">\u003cem>202-216-9823\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, or email them at: \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"mailto:LifeKit@npr.org\">\u003cem>LifeKit@npr.org\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"slug": "karaoke-south-san-francisco-hong-kong-late-night-restaurant-noodles-e-plus",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13968150\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13968150\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Three middle-aged men singing their hearts out at karaoke while a woman placidly eats a plate of spaghetti.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At South San Francisco’s E Plus Karaoke and Cafe, the food and the vibes are both top-notch. \u003ccite>(Raynato Castro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene. This week’s guest artist is local dentist — and \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/pop/18439/happy-20th-birthday-wonderwall\">\u003ci>Oasis\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> superfan — Raynato Castro.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>E Plus Karaoke and Cafe isn’t exactly the world’s most inviting restaurant. Located on a sparse, warehouse-y block of South San Francisco, the dimly lit building is easy to miss if you aren’t actively looking for the “WE ARE OPEN” banner hanging high up on the wall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Was\u003c/i> it open? And was it even a restaurant, really? When we pulled up at 9 o’clock on a Friday night, the front door was locked shut, and a slightly passive-aggressive signboard half-scolded us: “Sorry no dine-in, TO-GO only.” After a minute of uncertainty, a burly security guard with extensive face tattoos finally emerged and asked us, affably, if we’d made a reservation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We had. In fact, we’d been planning this night for months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reason we’d come to this slightly sketchy-looking shoebox of a karaoke joint was because, like so many of our Asian brethren, we live for karaoke — and also because we’d heard rumors that, in addition to having sweet private rooms (a.k.a. the only style of karaoke I abide) and superior song selection, E Plus also serves surprisingly good Cantonese food. Specifically, the sign in the window promises 港式西餐 — a genre of East-West fusion cuisine characteristic of Hong Kong–style coffee shops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To be clear, though, the emphasis is on the karaoke. You aren’t even allowed to eat inside if you haven’t reserved one of those private karaoke rooms ahead of time. But apart from the karaoke, the place is probably best known for being one of just a handful of late-night takeout options in the immediate vicinity of the San Francisco International Airport. Both the kitchen and the karaoke are open until 1:30 a.m. every night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of which is to say, it didn’t necessarily \u003ci>seem\u003c/i> like there was any incentive for the E Plus kitchen to crank out much better than C plus food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13968154\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13968154\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior.jpg\" alt='Illustration: The exterior of E Plus Karaoke and Cafe on a dark night with a full moon. The banner on top of the building reads, \"WE ARE OPEN.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Don’t be deceived by the building’s somewhat uninviting exterior. \u003ccite>(Raynato Castro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One pro tip: Everyone knows the key to a successful karaoke night is assembling the right crew. That’s especially true at E Plus, because the smallest size room will run you $58 an hour (with a two-hour minimum) even before you factor in food and drink — Lord knows, a pricey date night in this economy. But if you can cobble together at least a group of four, E Plus offers a $38 per person combo deal that’s a legitimate bargain: Each person picks a dish and a non-alcoholic drink, and two hours of karaoke time are included.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyway, our group of four put in our order and then promptly forgot about it in the excitement of scoping out the room we’d been assigned, with its big, shiny couches, moody neon backlighting, and top-notch sound system. Before we knew it, we were fully in our feelings: broing out to an especially lonesome rendition of Savage Garden’s “Truly Madly Deeply” and straining our voices to hit the high notes of the late, great Biz Markie’s “Just a Friend.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Quietly, a staff member brought in the food we’d ordered, crouching down so she wouldn’t block our view of the lyrics. And would you believe that every dish was a hit?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dry-style beef chow fun is a litmus test for any self-respecting \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962284/four-kings-hong-kong-restaurant-san-francisco-chinatown-hella-hungry-interview\">Canto food spot\u003c/a>, and E Plus’s version is as solid a rendition as I’ve had recently: soft, pliable noodles and well-charred beef, all glistening with a wonderfully savory soy sauce sheen. We took one bite and knew we were in good hands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another house special is the spicy salt-and-pepper fried chicken cartilage, and it’s a knockout — a generous, piping-hot portion of crispy popcorn chicken, essentially, with a little bit of extra texture for good measure. This is the ideal accompaniment to cold beer or sake (both available for purchase) — and exactly the kind of finger food that’s convenient when you want to pop something in your mouth during, say, the 27-second instrumental intro to “Boys of Summer.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13967564,arts_13965215,arts_13961613']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>The roast duck pancake, meanwhile, turns out to be a kind of hybrid between jianbing (a kind of northern Chinese street food crepe) and a Peking duck wrap. The eggy crepe is flecked with black sesame seeds, brushed with hoisin sauce, and then piled with slices of roast duck and rolled up like a burrito. I loved the bit of crispy duck skin you get in every bite, but you’ll want to devour this quickly, as soon as it comes out, before the crepe goes limp and cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most classic Hong Kong cafe–style dish that we ordered was the baked pork chop spaghetti — a pile of sweet, ketchup-spiked red sauce spaghetti topped with two big, juicy pork chops and an outlandish amount of stretchy melted cheese. Friends, this is late-night comfort food at its carby finest (though, admittedly, not the easiest or neatest dish to share).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To drink, E Plus offers a very respectable rendition of Hong Kong milk tea, served either cold or hot. But more adventurous diners may want to try the most surprising and delightful — and most overtly Hong Kong — menu item: hot Coke with lemon. It is what it sounds like: regular ol’ Coca-Cola, heated up to the temperature of hot tea so that it loses its fizz and amps up its sweetness, then mixed with a few thin rounds of lemon. Served this way, the drink tastes faintly medicinal — and indeed, in Hong Kong it’s a popular home remedy for a cough or sore throat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I like to think it made our singing voices especially potent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Granted, there were some of us who sang with the sweet, dulcet tones of a Filipino angel … and others who, well, compensated for our tone deafness by singing with our whole chest 100% of the time — and not hanging onto even one shred of our dignity. I’ll leave you to imagine who took Whitney’s part and who stepped in as Mariah in the big power-ballad duet moment of the night, “When You Believe.” Who crooned the most mournful old-man version of Gordon Lightfoot’s “If You Could Read My Mind.” And who hit the high notes in “Let It Go” so sweetly and perfectly, we \u003ci>all\u003c/i> thought we’d turned into Disney princesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, the first and only rule of (private room) karaoke is that you keep those memories for yourself. Bury the video evidence. Never speak of it again. At least until the next time you get an irrepressible hankering for Don Henley and deep-fried chicken cartilage, and round up the whole gang once again.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eplusstudio94080.com/\">\u003ci>E Plus Karaoke and Cafe\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 3 p.m.–1:30 a.m. daily at 490 S. Airport Blvd. Ste. A in South San Francisco. Call ahead to reserve a karaoke room if you plan to dine in.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13968150\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13968150\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Three middle-aged men singing their hearts out at karaoke while a woman placidly eats a plate of spaghetti.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At South San Francisco’s E Plus Karaoke and Cafe, the food and the vibes are both top-notch. \u003ccite>(Raynato Castro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene. This week’s guest artist is local dentist — and \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/pop/18439/happy-20th-birthday-wonderwall\">\u003ci>Oasis\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> superfan — Raynato Castro.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>E Plus Karaoke and Cafe isn’t exactly the world’s most inviting restaurant. Located on a sparse, warehouse-y block of South San Francisco, the dimly lit building is easy to miss if you aren’t actively looking for the “WE ARE OPEN” banner hanging high up on the wall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Was\u003c/i> it open? And was it even a restaurant, really? When we pulled up at 9 o’clock on a Friday night, the front door was locked shut, and a slightly passive-aggressive signboard half-scolded us: “Sorry no dine-in, TO-GO only.” After a minute of uncertainty, a burly security guard with extensive face tattoos finally emerged and asked us, affably, if we’d made a reservation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We had. In fact, we’d been planning this night for months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reason we’d come to this slightly sketchy-looking shoebox of a karaoke joint was because, like so many of our Asian brethren, we live for karaoke — and also because we’d heard rumors that, in addition to having sweet private rooms (a.k.a. the only style of karaoke I abide) and superior song selection, E Plus also serves surprisingly good Cantonese food. Specifically, the sign in the window promises 港式西餐 — a genre of East-West fusion cuisine characteristic of Hong Kong–style coffee shops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To be clear, though, the emphasis is on the karaoke. You aren’t even allowed to eat inside if you haven’t reserved one of those private karaoke rooms ahead of time. But apart from the karaoke, the place is probably best known for being one of just a handful of late-night takeout options in the immediate vicinity of the San Francisco International Airport. Both the kitchen and the karaoke are open until 1:30 a.m. every night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of which is to say, it didn’t necessarily \u003ci>seem\u003c/i> like there was any incentive for the E Plus kitchen to crank out much better than C plus food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13968154\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13968154\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior.jpg\" alt='Illustration: The exterior of E Plus Karaoke and Cafe on a dark night with a full moon. The banner on top of the building reads, \"WE ARE OPEN.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Don’t be deceived by the building’s somewhat uninviting exterior. \u003ccite>(Raynato Castro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One pro tip: Everyone knows the key to a successful karaoke night is assembling the right crew. That’s especially true at E Plus, because the smallest size room will run you $58 an hour (with a two-hour minimum) even before you factor in food and drink — Lord knows, a pricey date night in this economy. But if you can cobble together at least a group of four, E Plus offers a $38 per person combo deal that’s a legitimate bargain: Each person picks a dish and a non-alcoholic drink, and two hours of karaoke time are included.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyway, our group of four put in our order and then promptly forgot about it in the excitement of scoping out the room we’d been assigned, with its big, shiny couches, moody neon backlighting, and top-notch sound system. Before we knew it, we were fully in our feelings: broing out to an especially lonesome rendition of Savage Garden’s “Truly Madly Deeply” and straining our voices to hit the high notes of the late, great Biz Markie’s “Just a Friend.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Quietly, a staff member brought in the food we’d ordered, crouching down so she wouldn’t block our view of the lyrics. And would you believe that every dish was a hit?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dry-style beef chow fun is a litmus test for any self-respecting \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962284/four-kings-hong-kong-restaurant-san-francisco-chinatown-hella-hungry-interview\">Canto food spot\u003c/a>, and E Plus’s version is as solid a rendition as I’ve had recently: soft, pliable noodles and well-charred beef, all glistening with a wonderfully savory soy sauce sheen. We took one bite and knew we were in good hands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another house special is the spicy salt-and-pepper fried chicken cartilage, and it’s a knockout — a generous, piping-hot portion of crispy popcorn chicken, essentially, with a little bit of extra texture for good measure. This is the ideal accompaniment to cold beer or sake (both available for purchase) — and exactly the kind of finger food that’s convenient when you want to pop something in your mouth during, say, the 27-second instrumental intro to “Boys of Summer.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>The roast duck pancake, meanwhile, turns out to be a kind of hybrid between jianbing (a kind of northern Chinese street food crepe) and a Peking duck wrap. The eggy crepe is flecked with black sesame seeds, brushed with hoisin sauce, and then piled with slices of roast duck and rolled up like a burrito. I loved the bit of crispy duck skin you get in every bite, but you’ll want to devour this quickly, as soon as it comes out, before the crepe goes limp and cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most classic Hong Kong cafe–style dish that we ordered was the baked pork chop spaghetti — a pile of sweet, ketchup-spiked red sauce spaghetti topped with two big, juicy pork chops and an outlandish amount of stretchy melted cheese. Friends, this is late-night comfort food at its carby finest (though, admittedly, not the easiest or neatest dish to share).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To drink, E Plus offers a very respectable rendition of Hong Kong milk tea, served either cold or hot. But more adventurous diners may want to try the most surprising and delightful — and most overtly Hong Kong — menu item: hot Coke with lemon. It is what it sounds like: regular ol’ Coca-Cola, heated up to the temperature of hot tea so that it loses its fizz and amps up its sweetness, then mixed with a few thin rounds of lemon. Served this way, the drink tastes faintly medicinal — and indeed, in Hong Kong it’s a popular home remedy for a cough or sore throat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I like to think it made our singing voices especially potent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Granted, there were some of us who sang with the sweet, dulcet tones of a Filipino angel … and others who, well, compensated for our tone deafness by singing with our whole chest 100% of the time — and not hanging onto even one shred of our dignity. I’ll leave you to imagine who took Whitney’s part and who stepped in as Mariah in the big power-ballad duet moment of the night, “When You Believe.” Who crooned the most mournful old-man version of Gordon Lightfoot’s “If You Could Read My Mind.” And who hit the high notes in “Let It Go” so sweetly and perfectly, we \u003ci>all\u003c/i> thought we’d turned into Disney princesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, the first and only rule of (private room) karaoke is that you keep those memories for yourself. Bury the video evidence. Never speak of it again. At least until the next time you get an irrepressible hankering for Don Henley and deep-fried chicken cartilage, and round up the whole gang once again.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eplusstudio94080.com/\">\u003ci>E Plus Karaoke and Cafe\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 3 p.m.–1:30 a.m. daily at 490 S. Airport Blvd. Ste. A in South San Francisco. Call ahead to reserve a karaoke room if you plan to dine in.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>The contents of a pink doughnut box are usually pretty predictable — chocolate- or sprinkle-covered rings that offer a bit of sweetness and chewiness to get you through your morning. But at \u003ca href=\"https://www.eizelsbakery.com/\">Eizel’s Bakery\u003c/a>, a pop-up in the South Bay, some of the doughnuts are glazed with crackly caramelized sugar while others are filled with saucy crustaceans. Another Korean-inspired, doughnut-adjacent treat erupts with garlicky custard when you bite in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, Eizel’s isn’t the first bakery to try to reinvent the doughnut. But the way the pop-up blends classical pastry techniques with a wildly multicultural palette of flavors and ingredients sets it apart from the crowd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like so many other home bakers, Eizel Mafnas started her pop-up in 2021 as a way to connect with her community during the pandemic. Then, as now, she juggled the bakery with an IT job at the Stanford Children’s Hospital. “I thought, what’s the harm in starting a business?” says Mafnas. “If it works out, great I’ll keep doing it while it’s still fun for me. Three years later, I’m still having a lot of fun — though it is a lot of work.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967920\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967920\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas.jpg\" alt=\"A baker poses at her farmers market display of doughnuts and other baked treats.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eizel Mafnas draws inspiration from her native Philippines and from other restaurants and cuisines she loves. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mafnas began by selling brownies, using a recipe she refined over years of baking for family and friends. Now, the business has evolved to include Bombay chex mix, bacon jam empanadas and, as of this year, a creative collection of both sweet and savory doughnuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A couple of Mafnas’s doughnuts are inspired by the flavors of the Philippines, where she grew up. “I’m most proud of my ube doughnut,” says Mafnas. “I wanted to make something for the person who hasn’t had any exposure to Filipino culture.” The purple doughnut features ube in three ways: She fills ube brioche with creamy ube jam and sprinkles the outside with ube polvorón, a common shortbread she grew up eating in the Philippines. Another doughnut features calamansi, or Filipino lime. The final product feels like a hybrid between sponge cake and key lime pie, oozing with tangy custard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For some of her more multicultural doughnuts, Mafnas draws inspiration from dishes at some of her favorite restaurants. One of the most striking examples is a crawfish doughnut inspired by the crawfish beignets at Brenda’s French Soul Food in San Francisco. In Mafnas’s version, crawfish meat is stuffed into a savory brioche doughnut along with a garlicky Cajun sauce and gooey cheese so that the inside of the pastry gets a little bit soggy. It’s like the inverse of using crusty bread to soak up the sauce on a seafood plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967922\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967922\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun.jpg\" alt=\"A savory bun dusted with Parmesan cheese.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A savory Korean garlic bun, dusted with Parmesan cheese. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When \u003ca href=\"https://www.thekitchn.com/dubai-knafeh-pistachio-chocolate-bar-review-23676829\">Dubai chocolate bars\u003c/a> went viral on social media earlier this year, Mafnas spun a doughnut version complete with homemade pistachio cream. And for the pumpkin spice season, she created a pumpkin cake doughnut topped with pecan praline, pumpkin caramel and a cream cheese glaze. “It’s a nice challenge to see what you can make into a doughnut,” says Mafnas. “Before it would take me weeks to figure out a doughnut. Now, it takes me a few days.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13965215,arts_13958172,arts_13965475']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>By watching \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/jacques-pepin-cooking-at-home\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a> and other PBS cooking shows like \u003ci>America’s Test Kitchen, \u003c/i>Mafnas learned to think about how ingredients interact with each other rather than simply following a recipe. “Baking allows me to get creative and break that mold that things have to be precise, “ says Mafnas. “But I’m having a hard time with apple fritters — I fried it, and it just disintegrated.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She’s persistent, though, and commits to developing recipes even when faced with hurdles. (She’s still working on those apple fritters!) Her ability to turn anything into a doughnut might seem like magic, but really, she’s gotten the process down to a science. Every single detail is carefully considered, like the balance between sweetness and acidity or whether a pastry needs some element to add textural contrast. Every doughnut’s filling complements its exterior — for example, the crème brûlée doughnut has a sticky, shattering top with a touch of bitterness that’s counteracted by the dollop of sweet custard inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967924\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967924\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of an ube doughnut and creme brulee doughnut in a takeout container.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A crème brûlée doughnut (left) and ube doughnut. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mafnas and her team produce their goods out of a commercial kitchen, but Mafnas says they’re close to outgrowing the space. Aside from popping up at farmers markets and events, Eizel’s baked goods are also stocked at coffee shops in San Jose. During a recent Sunday morning pop-up at the Japantown Farmers Market, a crowd of customers waited patiently in line — and many of the most popular doughnuts sell out within the first two hours of any given event, Mafnas says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I hope to one day open my own doughnut shop and bring in other things,” says Mafnas, “There’s so much more in my head I want to bring out to folks.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eizelsbakery/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Eizel’s Bakery\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> pops up at farmers markets and events around the South Bay. The next pop-up is at \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pourdecisionscraft.com/\">\u003ci>Pour Decisions\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (5700 Village Oaks Dr. #20) in San Jose Saturday, Nov. 9. For information about future pop-ups, check out Eizel’s \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eizelsbakery/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Instagram page\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. It will attend the \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sanjosemade.com/pages/sjmade-holiday-fair-2024\">\u003ci>SJ Made Holiday Fair\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (Santa Clara Convention Center) on Nov. 29–30.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The contents of a pink doughnut box are usually pretty predictable — chocolate- or sprinkle-covered rings that offer a bit of sweetness and chewiness to get you through your morning. But at \u003ca href=\"https://www.eizelsbakery.com/\">Eizel’s Bakery\u003c/a>, a pop-up in the South Bay, some of the doughnuts are glazed with crackly caramelized sugar while others are filled with saucy crustaceans. Another Korean-inspired, doughnut-adjacent treat erupts with garlicky custard when you bite in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, Eizel’s isn’t the first bakery to try to reinvent the doughnut. But the way the pop-up blends classical pastry techniques with a wildly multicultural palette of flavors and ingredients sets it apart from the crowd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like so many other home bakers, Eizel Mafnas started her pop-up in 2021 as a way to connect with her community during the pandemic. Then, as now, she juggled the bakery with an IT job at the Stanford Children’s Hospital. “I thought, what’s the harm in starting a business?” says Mafnas. “If it works out, great I’ll keep doing it while it’s still fun for me. Three years later, I’m still having a lot of fun — though it is a lot of work.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967920\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967920\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas.jpg\" alt=\"A baker poses at her farmers market display of doughnuts and other baked treats.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eizel Mafnas draws inspiration from her native Philippines and from other restaurants and cuisines she loves. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mafnas began by selling brownies, using a recipe she refined over years of baking for family and friends. Now, the business has evolved to include Bombay chex mix, bacon jam empanadas and, as of this year, a creative collection of both sweet and savory doughnuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A couple of Mafnas’s doughnuts are inspired by the flavors of the Philippines, where she grew up. “I’m most proud of my ube doughnut,” says Mafnas. “I wanted to make something for the person who hasn’t had any exposure to Filipino culture.” The purple doughnut features ube in three ways: She fills ube brioche with creamy ube jam and sprinkles the outside with ube polvorón, a common shortbread she grew up eating in the Philippines. Another doughnut features calamansi, or Filipino lime. The final product feels like a hybrid between sponge cake and key lime pie, oozing with tangy custard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For some of her more multicultural doughnuts, Mafnas draws inspiration from dishes at some of her favorite restaurants. One of the most striking examples is a crawfish doughnut inspired by the crawfish beignets at Brenda’s French Soul Food in San Francisco. In Mafnas’s version, crawfish meat is stuffed into a savory brioche doughnut along with a garlicky Cajun sauce and gooey cheese so that the inside of the pastry gets a little bit soggy. It’s like the inverse of using crusty bread to soak up the sauce on a seafood plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967922\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967922\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun.jpg\" alt=\"A savory bun dusted with Parmesan cheese.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A savory Korean garlic bun, dusted with Parmesan cheese. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When \u003ca href=\"https://www.thekitchn.com/dubai-knafeh-pistachio-chocolate-bar-review-23676829\">Dubai chocolate bars\u003c/a> went viral on social media earlier this year, Mafnas spun a doughnut version complete with homemade pistachio cream. And for the pumpkin spice season, she created a pumpkin cake doughnut topped with pecan praline, pumpkin caramel and a cream cheese glaze. “It’s a nice challenge to see what you can make into a doughnut,” says Mafnas. “Before it would take me weeks to figure out a doughnut. Now, it takes me a few days.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>By watching \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/jacques-pepin-cooking-at-home\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a> and other PBS cooking shows like \u003ci>America’s Test Kitchen, \u003c/i>Mafnas learned to think about how ingredients interact with each other rather than simply following a recipe. “Baking allows me to get creative and break that mold that things have to be precise, “ says Mafnas. “But I’m having a hard time with apple fritters — I fried it, and it just disintegrated.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She’s persistent, though, and commits to developing recipes even when faced with hurdles. (She’s still working on those apple fritters!) Her ability to turn anything into a doughnut might seem like magic, but really, she’s gotten the process down to a science. Every single detail is carefully considered, like the balance between sweetness and acidity or whether a pastry needs some element to add textural contrast. Every doughnut’s filling complements its exterior — for example, the crème brûlée doughnut has a sticky, shattering top with a touch of bitterness that’s counteracted by the dollop of sweet custard inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967924\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967924\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of an ube doughnut and creme brulee doughnut in a takeout container.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A crème brûlée doughnut (left) and ube doughnut. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mafnas and her team produce their goods out of a commercial kitchen, but Mafnas says they’re close to outgrowing the space. Aside from popping up at farmers markets and events, Eizel’s baked goods are also stocked at coffee shops in San Jose. During a recent Sunday morning pop-up at the Japantown Farmers Market, a crowd of customers waited patiently in line — and many of the most popular doughnuts sell out within the first two hours of any given event, Mafnas says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I hope to one day open my own doughnut shop and bring in other things,” says Mafnas, “There’s so much more in my head I want to bring out to folks.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eizelsbakery/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Eizel’s Bakery\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> pops up at farmers markets and events around the South Bay. The next pop-up is at \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pourdecisionscraft.com/\">\u003ci>Pour Decisions\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (5700 Village Oaks Dr. #20) in San Jose Saturday, Nov. 9. For information about future pop-ups, check out Eizel’s \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eizelsbakery/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Instagram page\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. It will attend the \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sanjosemade.com/pages/sjmade-holiday-fair-2024\">\u003ci>SJ Made Holiday Fair\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (Santa Clara Convention Center) on Nov. 29–30.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>[dropcap]W[/dropcap]hen Benjamin Glover visited Chicago’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.atelier-chicago.com/\">Atelier\u003c/a> at the end of 2023, he didn’t know what to expect. He left a changed man.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Never having experienced a fine dining tasting menu before, Glover figured he would have to get McDonald’s on the way home — there was no way those tiny plates would do the trick. But over the course of the meal, his mind was fully blown, his spirit stimulated alongside his stomach’s satiation. The thoughtful sequencing of dishes conjured to mind music. “It was like eating my way through an album,” Glover says. “I wanted to make an album that sounded like a tasting menu.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s because when Glover is not eating gourmet dinners, he performs as the rapper \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/blvcksvm/?hl=en\">Blvck Svm\u003c/a>. And he really did wind up creating an entire album that’s inspired by fine dining. It’s called \u003ci>michelinman\u003c/i>, and it drops on Nov. 11. In keeping with the theme, Glover shot the music videos for the album in upscale kitchens around the country, milling between sauciers and line cooks while he raps into a mic that drapes down from the ceiling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given Northern California’s fine-dining bona fides, it should come as no surprise that the project has strong Bay Area connections: Glover himself is based in Chicago, but one of the album’s main producers is from the East Bay. San Francisco fine dining restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.restaurantnisei.com/\">Nisei\u003c/a> gets a name drop on \u003ci>michelinman\u003c/i>’s first track, “greymatter,” and its kitchen — and kitchen team — is featured in the music video for the song.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The songs on \u003ci>michelinman\u003c/i> weave a concentric circle between high-level rapping and high-level cooking, bouncing between basketball references and tuna belly with ease. Tracks are riddled with samples from cooking shows and chefs pleading with diners to pay attention to their palate. On “irongate” Glover details the camel bone spoon he’ll use for Beluga caviar before comparing his duffel bag to a “Twix sans nougat.” On “mikealstott,” he raps in a near-whisper about how he will “trim the fat and drop it on the heat like a Pat Riley contract” — a reference to how the Miami Heat executive was notorious for monitoring his players’ body fat percentage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAjb2ruk1SM\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The songs are both about fine dining and not, shifting between instructions for searing meat and processing grief with ease. Through the 13-song, nearly 40-minute album, Glover’s flow is a low-rolling storm, breathless and quiet as each song’s larger picture emerges minute by minute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Glover wrote the album between April and September of this year and shot the music videos in the same timeframe. Inspired by \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fromtheblockperformance/\">From the Block Performance’s\u003c/a> viral outdoor rap videos, the music videos for \u003ci>michelinman \u003c/i>have a certain Humans of New York feeling to them, as strangers peel around the artist while he raps in public — in this case, inside prominent fine dining kitchens including Oklahoma City’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.nonesuchokc.com/\">NONESUCH\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.thebutcheryyeg.ca/\">The Butchery by RGE RD\u003c/a> in Alberta, Canada.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the videos, Glover plays the part of an interloper praising the work he sees around him. In the one for “greymatter,” shot at Nisei in black and white, the kitchen crew makes quick work of several whole fish, slicing and deboning behind Glover in his puffy jacket. Over a tinkling piano loop, Glover waxes poetic about the Russian Hill restaurant’s raw fish preparations: “I ran out of excuses, I had to make something happen / Break a backend at Nisei or Momotaro / Sashimi otoro, chutoro, cleansing all of my sorrows / Soy sauce only an option if flavor need to be borrowed.” There’s a noir ambiance to the scene, Glover barely visible, the mic hanging in front of him an anchor through the rushing energy of the Nisei kitchen staff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=488DcyAaXV4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Glover has been chasing his rap dreams since he was a kid in Pembroke Pines, Florida. Back then, he modeled himself after the Southern icon Lil Wayne — but that was just for fun during lunch. It was while he was a student at the University of Chicago, shaking like a leaf during his first performances, that he finally rapped in front of an actual audience. His handle’s changed over the years, finally landing on Blvck Svm as a nod to Cartoon Network’s \u003ci>Samurai Jack\u003c/i>. It’s also an homage to Yasuke, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/who-was-yasuke-japans-first-black-samurai-180981416/\">first Black samurai\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13907726']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>During the pandemic, Glover lost his day job as an assistant manager at the university’s gym just before his rap career started to go big: His 2020 single “\u003ca href=\"https://blvcksvm.bandcamp.com/track/bleach\">bleach\u003c/a>,” a brief, lyrically dense track, now has millions of streams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For \u003ci>michelinman\u003c/i>, Glover linked up with Los Angeles–based producer MIKE SUMMERS, but he tapped Fremont musician Max He for sample interpolation. He has been working with Glover for about a year and says that while the Bay Area’s music scene is vast, not a lot of action happens in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13965193/fremont-immigrant-suburb-idealism-my-hometown\">Fremont\u003c/a> — so he was starstruck, for instance, to be working on the same project as Terrace Martin, who plays sax on the album’s outro. “[Blvck Svm’s] music is about redefining luxury into something accessible,” He says, “not something reserved just for the upper class. He talks about the waiter sprinkling lemon pepper on his wings at Wing Stop in the same way he does about sashimi from Nisei.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967664\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967664\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef.jpg\" alt=\"A rapper in a black puffy jacket poses with a chef in the kitchen of a fine dining restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-1536x1025.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-1920x1281.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Glover poses with Nisei chef-owner David Yoshimura. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Blvck Svm)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For David Yoshimura, Nisei’s chef-owner, it was wonderful to be involved in the album at all. Nisei is a fitting restaurant to highlight on the topic of “accessible luxury” — after all, not many other San Francisco restaurants pair \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2024/5/2/24133340/savory-mochi-san-francisco-restaurants\">caviar with mochi\u003c/a>. Glover had reached out to the \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/california/san-francisco/restaurant/nisei\">Michelin-starred restaurant\u003c/a> directly via Instagram, and while a lot of people hit him up with offers to collaborate, Yoshimura was struck by the rapper’s politeness and professionalism. The shoot itself was an easy affair. There’s not usually much yelling in Nisei’s kitchen, he says, so they amped up the energy for the video.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Afterwards, Glover and He came in for dinner, and both of them raved about the mochi caviar course and the miso soup. “They were the nicest guests,” Yoshimura says. “And I think his album is going to be the first of its kind.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967673\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967673\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront.jpg\" alt='A man in a red baseball cap and white \"A Timeless Ape\" T-shirt poses in front of the Chicago waterfront.' width=\"2000\" height=\"2500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-1229x1536.jpg 1229w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-1638x2048.jpg 1638w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-1920x2400.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Glover in front of the Chicago waterfront. \u003ccite>(Michael Tinley, courtesy of Blvck Svm)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Of course, Glover is hardly the\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13955802/bay-area-rappers-food-lyrics-illustrations-e-40-larry-june\"> first rapper to consider food\u003c/a>. The late great MF Doom was famous for his lyrical odes to “Doritos, Cheetos or Fritos.” Earlier this fall, New York experimental rappers Phiik and Lungs put out a dense project called \u003ca href=\"https://pitchfork.com/reviews/albums/phiik-lungs-carrot-season/\">\u003ci>Carrot Season\u003c/i>\u003c/a> that includes a track about psychedelic herbal tea. And the Bay’s own Larry June raps about health food and orange juice, and even \u003ca href=\"https://brokeassstuart.com/2023/04/24/larry-june-and-the-alchemists-love-letter-to-the-bay-area-is-a-delight/\">owns a boba shop\u003c/a> in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13955802,arts_13934248']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>But Glover hopes to be the first full bridge between the mediums — like a fan of flex rap finding a track that gets them deeper into hip-hop, or a diner who heads to Benu for the Instagram pic but leaves weeping like Keanu Reeves in \u003ci>Always Be My Maybe\u003c/i>. His inspirations include MF DOOM and the Griselda hip-hop collective (Boldy James is featured on the album). He cites Action Bronson as another muse, in the way he de-escalates luxurious experiences through irreverent, abstract bars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Glover’s training to get to that level is, fittingly, spent at the chef’s table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“All those things people see as art in food are also in rap. So I spend my time watching how they move through the space,” he says. “The timing, the precision.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://too.fm/michelinman?fbclid=PAZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAaZwbE2w0QgkWzig03KGJJwvFGQh60VyVR65a7G7W0ZLRC1uzS1H7buao00_aem_JNNYZ0-t6kek9RcG8zCqtg\">michelinman\u003c/a> will be available to stream on all platforms on Nov. 11. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The music videos take us inside some of the top fine dining kitchens in America — including Nisei in SF.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">W\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>hen Benjamin Glover visited Chicago’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.atelier-chicago.com/\">Atelier\u003c/a> at the end of 2023, he didn’t know what to expect. He left a changed man.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Never having experienced a fine dining tasting menu before, Glover figured he would have to get McDonald’s on the way home — there was no way those tiny plates would do the trick. But over the course of the meal, his mind was fully blown, his spirit stimulated alongside his stomach’s satiation. The thoughtful sequencing of dishes conjured to mind music. “It was like eating my way through an album,” Glover says. “I wanted to make an album that sounded like a tasting menu.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s because when Glover is not eating gourmet dinners, he performs as the rapper \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/blvcksvm/?hl=en\">Blvck Svm\u003c/a>. And he really did wind up creating an entire album that’s inspired by fine dining. It’s called \u003ci>michelinman\u003c/i>, and it drops on Nov. 11. In keeping with the theme, Glover shot the music videos for the album in upscale kitchens around the country, milling between sauciers and line cooks while he raps into a mic that drapes down from the ceiling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given Northern California’s fine-dining bona fides, it should come as no surprise that the project has strong Bay Area connections: Glover himself is based in Chicago, but one of the album’s main producers is from the East Bay. San Francisco fine dining restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.restaurantnisei.com/\">Nisei\u003c/a> gets a name drop on \u003ci>michelinman\u003c/i>’s first track, “greymatter,” and its kitchen — and kitchen team — is featured in the music video for the song.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The songs on \u003ci>michelinman\u003c/i> weave a concentric circle between high-level rapping and high-level cooking, bouncing between basketball references and tuna belly with ease. Tracks are riddled with samples from cooking shows and chefs pleading with diners to pay attention to their palate. On “irongate” Glover details the camel bone spoon he’ll use for Beluga caviar before comparing his duffel bag to a “Twix sans nougat.” On “mikealstott,” he raps in a near-whisper about how he will “trim the fat and drop it on the heat like a Pat Riley contract” — a reference to how the Miami Heat executive was notorious for monitoring his players’ body fat percentage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/FAjb2ruk1SM'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/FAjb2ruk1SM'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>The songs are both about fine dining and not, shifting between instructions for searing meat and processing grief with ease. Through the 13-song, nearly 40-minute album, Glover’s flow is a low-rolling storm, breathless and quiet as each song’s larger picture emerges minute by minute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Glover wrote the album between April and September of this year and shot the music videos in the same timeframe. Inspired by \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fromtheblockperformance/\">From the Block Performance’s\u003c/a> viral outdoor rap videos, the music videos for \u003ci>michelinman \u003c/i>have a certain Humans of New York feeling to them, as strangers peel around the artist while he raps in public — in this case, inside prominent fine dining kitchens including Oklahoma City’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.nonesuchokc.com/\">NONESUCH\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.thebutcheryyeg.ca/\">The Butchery by RGE RD\u003c/a> in Alberta, Canada.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the videos, Glover plays the part of an interloper praising the work he sees around him. In the one for “greymatter,” shot at Nisei in black and white, the kitchen crew makes quick work of several whole fish, slicing and deboning behind Glover in his puffy jacket. Over a tinkling piano loop, Glover waxes poetic about the Russian Hill restaurant’s raw fish preparations: “I ran out of excuses, I had to make something happen / Break a backend at Nisei or Momotaro / Sashimi otoro, chutoro, cleansing all of my sorrows / Soy sauce only an option if flavor need to be borrowed.” There’s a noir ambiance to the scene, Glover barely visible, the mic hanging in front of him an anchor through the rushing energy of the Nisei kitchen staff.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/488DcyAaXV4'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/488DcyAaXV4'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Glover has been chasing his rap dreams since he was a kid in Pembroke Pines, Florida. Back then, he modeled himself after the Southern icon Lil Wayne — but that was just for fun during lunch. It was while he was a student at the University of Chicago, shaking like a leaf during his first performances, that he finally rapped in front of an actual audience. His handle’s changed over the years, finally landing on Blvck Svm as a nod to Cartoon Network’s \u003ci>Samurai Jack\u003c/i>. It’s also an homage to Yasuke, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/who-was-yasuke-japans-first-black-samurai-180981416/\">first Black samurai\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>During the pandemic, Glover lost his day job as an assistant manager at the university’s gym just before his rap career started to go big: His 2020 single “\u003ca href=\"https://blvcksvm.bandcamp.com/track/bleach\">bleach\u003c/a>,” a brief, lyrically dense track, now has millions of streams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For \u003ci>michelinman\u003c/i>, Glover linked up with Los Angeles–based producer MIKE SUMMERS, but he tapped Fremont musician Max He for sample interpolation. He has been working with Glover for about a year and says that while the Bay Area’s music scene is vast, not a lot of action happens in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13965193/fremont-immigrant-suburb-idealism-my-hometown\">Fremont\u003c/a> — so he was starstruck, for instance, to be working on the same project as Terrace Martin, who plays sax on the album’s outro. “[Blvck Svm’s] music is about redefining luxury into something accessible,” He says, “not something reserved just for the upper class. He talks about the waiter sprinkling lemon pepper on his wings at Wing Stop in the same way he does about sashimi from Nisei.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967664\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967664\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef.jpg\" alt=\"A rapper in a black puffy jacket poses with a chef in the kitchen of a fine dining restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-1536x1025.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-1920x1281.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Glover poses with Nisei chef-owner David Yoshimura. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Blvck Svm)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For David Yoshimura, Nisei’s chef-owner, it was wonderful to be involved in the album at all. Nisei is a fitting restaurant to highlight on the topic of “accessible luxury” — after all, not many other San Francisco restaurants pair \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2024/5/2/24133340/savory-mochi-san-francisco-restaurants\">caviar with mochi\u003c/a>. Glover had reached out to the \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/california/san-francisco/restaurant/nisei\">Michelin-starred restaurant\u003c/a> directly via Instagram, and while a lot of people hit him up with offers to collaborate, Yoshimura was struck by the rapper’s politeness and professionalism. The shoot itself was an easy affair. There’s not usually much yelling in Nisei’s kitchen, he says, so they amped up the energy for the video.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Afterwards, Glover and He came in for dinner, and both of them raved about the mochi caviar course and the miso soup. “They were the nicest guests,” Yoshimura says. “And I think his album is going to be the first of its kind.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967673\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967673\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront.jpg\" alt='A man in a red baseball cap and white \"A Timeless Ape\" T-shirt poses in front of the Chicago waterfront.' width=\"2000\" height=\"2500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-1229x1536.jpg 1229w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-1638x2048.jpg 1638w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-1920x2400.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Glover in front of the Chicago waterfront. \u003ccite>(Michael Tinley, courtesy of Blvck Svm)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Of course, Glover is hardly the\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13955802/bay-area-rappers-food-lyrics-illustrations-e-40-larry-june\"> first rapper to consider food\u003c/a>. The late great MF Doom was famous for his lyrical odes to “Doritos, Cheetos or Fritos.” Earlier this fall, New York experimental rappers Phiik and Lungs put out a dense project called \u003ca href=\"https://pitchfork.com/reviews/albums/phiik-lungs-carrot-season/\">\u003ci>Carrot Season\u003c/i>\u003c/a> that includes a track about psychedelic herbal tea. And the Bay’s own Larry June raps about health food and orange juice, and even \u003ca href=\"https://brokeassstuart.com/2023/04/24/larry-june-and-the-alchemists-love-letter-to-the-bay-area-is-a-delight/\">owns a boba shop\u003c/a> in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>But Glover hopes to be the first full bridge between the mediums — like a fan of flex rap finding a track that gets them deeper into hip-hop, or a diner who heads to Benu for the Instagram pic but leaves weeping like Keanu Reeves in \u003ci>Always Be My Maybe\u003c/i>. His inspirations include MF DOOM and the Griselda hip-hop collective (Boldy James is featured on the album). He cites Action Bronson as another muse, in the way he de-escalates luxurious experiences through irreverent, abstract bars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Glover’s training to get to that level is, fittingly, spent at the chef’s table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“All those things people see as art in food are also in rap. So I spend my time watching how they move through the space,” he says. “The timing, the precision.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://too.fm/michelinman?fbclid=PAZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAaZwbE2w0QgkWzig03KGJJwvFGQh60VyVR65a7G7W0ZLRC1uzS1H7buao00_aem_JNNYZ0-t6kek9RcG8zCqtg\">michelinman\u003c/a> will be available to stream on all platforms on Nov. 11. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "taishan-cuisine-san-francisco-chinatown-late-night-food",
"title": "Taishan Cuisine Is Keeping Chinatown’s Late-Night Food Scene Alive",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967573\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967573\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men devouring a Chinese meal with chopsticks.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Taishan Cuisine is one of a handful of restaurants in San Francisco that specializes in Taishanese cooking, including its standout yellow eel claypot rice. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Late-night meals in San Francisco Chinatown are a long and storied tradition going back more than 100 years — for \u003ca href=\"https://gastronomica.org/2004/11/04/late-night-lions-den-chinese-restaurant-nightclubs-1940s-san-francisco/\">club-hoppers\u003c/a>, post-shift restaurant workers, \u003ca href=\"https://www.hungryonion.org/t/sf-chinatown-chinatown-food-memories/7734/6\">hippies\u003c/a>, Beat poets and boozehounds making one final pit stop after last call.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re also all but extinct.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, you can count on one hand the number of Chinatown restaurants open later than 9 p.m. \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/food/1337752/remembering-sam-wos-edsel-ford-fong-san-franciscos-rudest-waiter\">Sam Wo\u003c/a>, the neighborhood’s oldest and most iconic after-hours spot, recently announced it will \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/sf-sam-wo-restaurant-sale-risk-of-closure-19808509.php\">close at the end of the year\u003c/a> (barring an eleventh-hour miracle) — and it hasn’t been open past 8:30 since pre-pandemic times anyway. These days, if you’re craving a bowl of jook or a plate of sizzling hot beef chow fun after midnight, you’ll find more options out in the Richmond or the Sunset than you will anywhere in the vicinity of Chinatown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s hard, then, to overstate the value of a place like Taishan Cuisine, which very quietly serves some of the tastiest Chinese food in San Francisco until 3 a.m. every night. Quietly, anyway, to those outside the community: Taishan is your \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962284/four-kings-hong-kong-restaurant-san-francisco-chinatown-hella-hungry-interview\">favorite Chinese chef’s\u003c/a> favorite Chinatown joint — a low-key cult favorite among \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fuchsiadunlop/p/CztzEKex4G7/\">connoisseurs\u003c/a> of regional Chinese cuisine. And at a little before 10 o’clock on a recent Friday night, the dining room was bustling almost exclusively with Cantonese-speaking locals and only seemed to get busier the later it got.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taishan opened in 2020, barely a month before lockdown, but it’s one of those Chinatown restaurants that looks and feels like it’s been around forever: weathered wooden tables, handwritten specials, the Hong Kong news playing on the TV. A series of red and yellow framed posters highlighting specific menu items has a vintage ’60s design aesthetic. (Each one is inscribed with a poetic Chinese idiom: A medicinal-looking pork belly hot pot dish, for instance, promises to fill men with vigor and serve as a “beauty salon” for women.) The only things that look new are the shiny, high-tech induction burners on each table, for hot pot, which feel almost anachronistic in this setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967575\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967575\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Exterior of Taishan Cuisine restaurant lit up at night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Open until 3 a.m. every night, the restaurant is one of the last remaining late-night food spots in Chinatown. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The restaurant has one of those wide-spanning Chinese menus that can be intimidating for a first-time visitor. There’s a whole page dedicated to hot pot and another page for dim sum. It has a rice porridge section and a noodle section, with a handful of Chinese American standbys like Mongolian beef and sweet and sour chicken mixed in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the restaurant’s name itself gives a clear indication of what you should order: Taishan, aka Toisan, is the part of China’s Guangdong province from which many of the earliest immigrants to California hailed during the Gold Rush, back in the 1850s — the ones who built up San Francisco’s Chinatown. In that sense, you could say that Taishanese food is Chinatown’s mother cuisine, but today, only a handful of spots in San Francisco explicitly market themselves as specializing in dishes from that region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13966812,arts_13963437,arts_13956218']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>At Taishan Cuisine, most of these are listed as “house specials” or “chef’s specials,” and sometimes include the word “Taishan” in the name of the dish. If you stick to these, you’ll do very well for yourself. So, of course we had to order the Taishan roast chicken, which turns out to be a whole, foil-wrapped chicken with golden-brown skin that our efficient server disassembles tableside. Which is to say she rips it apart limb from limb — head, neck and all — with gloved hands until we’re left with a tidy pile of meat and bones. It comes with no sauce or seasoning dip, so we worry it might be a touch bland. But the chicken’s own juices are so flavorful, and the meat is so tender and, well, supremely chicken-y, we can’t stop eating it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another Taishan classic: a plate of Chinese cauliflower (skinnier and more pleasantly crunchy than Western varietals), which comes studded with garlic and tossed with thick slices of preserved sausage until it’s slicked with pork fat and salty juices. It’s one of the most delicious and addicting vegetable stir-fries I’ve eaten in a while.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taishanese food is probably best known for its claypot rice dishes, the most famous being yellow eel claypot rice. At Taishan Cuisine, it’s the biggest splurge on the menu at $48, but the portion is big enough to feed four people easily. It’s hard to describe how fragrant this pot of rice was when our server lifted up the lid. Again, there isn’t much seasoning to speak of — just a bit of soy sauce mixed with rendered eel fat to coat each glistening grain of rice. The eel itself, shredded into small chunks, tastes akin to a mild catfish — mild enough that you can order the dish as a fine and luxurious substitute for white rice, to accompany the rest of your meal. And the best part? The toasty, crunchy, utterly glorious crust that forms at the bottom of the pot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we hadn’t already, in typical fashion, ordered way too much food for two people, we would have loved to try the Taishan-style braised goose or cleansed our palate with the cloudy beef bone soup we saw on several other tables around us. As it was, I felt like we’d barely scratched the surface of what the restaurant, and the cuisine, had to offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the last few weeks, then, this is the meal I keep thinking about. When the hunger pangs strike past midnight, I start daydreaming about claypot rice — and, maybe, for a return to a time when all of Chinatown is lit up late into the night with jook shops and noodle houses and stylish Hong Kong–style cafes. For now, it’ll have to be enough to plan my next meal at Taishan Cuisine. As long as they’re around, Chinatown’s late-night food scene isn’t dead yet.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Taishan Cuisine is open 11 a.m.–3 p.m. and 5 p.m.–3 a.m. daily at 781 Broadway in San Francisco.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967573\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967573\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men devouring a Chinese meal with chopsticks.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Taishan Cuisine is one of a handful of restaurants in San Francisco that specializes in Taishanese cooking, including its standout yellow eel claypot rice. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Late-night meals in San Francisco Chinatown are a long and storied tradition going back more than 100 years — for \u003ca href=\"https://gastronomica.org/2004/11/04/late-night-lions-den-chinese-restaurant-nightclubs-1940s-san-francisco/\">club-hoppers\u003c/a>, post-shift restaurant workers, \u003ca href=\"https://www.hungryonion.org/t/sf-chinatown-chinatown-food-memories/7734/6\">hippies\u003c/a>, Beat poets and boozehounds making one final pit stop after last call.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re also all but extinct.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, you can count on one hand the number of Chinatown restaurants open later than 9 p.m. \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/food/1337752/remembering-sam-wos-edsel-ford-fong-san-franciscos-rudest-waiter\">Sam Wo\u003c/a>, the neighborhood’s oldest and most iconic after-hours spot, recently announced it will \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/sf-sam-wo-restaurant-sale-risk-of-closure-19808509.php\">close at the end of the year\u003c/a> (barring an eleventh-hour miracle) — and it hasn’t been open past 8:30 since pre-pandemic times anyway. These days, if you’re craving a bowl of jook or a plate of sizzling hot beef chow fun after midnight, you’ll find more options out in the Richmond or the Sunset than you will anywhere in the vicinity of Chinatown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s hard, then, to overstate the value of a place like Taishan Cuisine, which very quietly serves some of the tastiest Chinese food in San Francisco until 3 a.m. every night. Quietly, anyway, to those outside the community: Taishan is your \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962284/four-kings-hong-kong-restaurant-san-francisco-chinatown-hella-hungry-interview\">favorite Chinese chef’s\u003c/a> favorite Chinatown joint — a low-key cult favorite among \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fuchsiadunlop/p/CztzEKex4G7/\">connoisseurs\u003c/a> of regional Chinese cuisine. And at a little before 10 o’clock on a recent Friday night, the dining room was bustling almost exclusively with Cantonese-speaking locals and only seemed to get busier the later it got.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taishan opened in 2020, barely a month before lockdown, but it’s one of those Chinatown restaurants that looks and feels like it’s been around forever: weathered wooden tables, handwritten specials, the Hong Kong news playing on the TV. A series of red and yellow framed posters highlighting specific menu items has a vintage ’60s design aesthetic. (Each one is inscribed with a poetic Chinese idiom: A medicinal-looking pork belly hot pot dish, for instance, promises to fill men with vigor and serve as a “beauty salon” for women.) The only things that look new are the shiny, high-tech induction burners on each table, for hot pot, which feel almost anachronistic in this setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967575\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967575\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Exterior of Taishan Cuisine restaurant lit up at night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Open until 3 a.m. every night, the restaurant is one of the last remaining late-night food spots in Chinatown. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The restaurant has one of those wide-spanning Chinese menus that can be intimidating for a first-time visitor. There’s a whole page dedicated to hot pot and another page for dim sum. It has a rice porridge section and a noodle section, with a handful of Chinese American standbys like Mongolian beef and sweet and sour chicken mixed in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the restaurant’s name itself gives a clear indication of what you should order: Taishan, aka Toisan, is the part of China’s Guangdong province from which many of the earliest immigrants to California hailed during the Gold Rush, back in the 1850s — the ones who built up San Francisco’s Chinatown. In that sense, you could say that Taishanese food is Chinatown’s mother cuisine, but today, only a handful of spots in San Francisco explicitly market themselves as specializing in dishes from that region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>At Taishan Cuisine, most of these are listed as “house specials” or “chef’s specials,” and sometimes include the word “Taishan” in the name of the dish. If you stick to these, you’ll do very well for yourself. So, of course we had to order the Taishan roast chicken, which turns out to be a whole, foil-wrapped chicken with golden-brown skin that our efficient server disassembles tableside. Which is to say she rips it apart limb from limb — head, neck and all — with gloved hands until we’re left with a tidy pile of meat and bones. It comes with no sauce or seasoning dip, so we worry it might be a touch bland. But the chicken’s own juices are so flavorful, and the meat is so tender and, well, supremely chicken-y, we can’t stop eating it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another Taishan classic: a plate of Chinese cauliflower (skinnier and more pleasantly crunchy than Western varietals), which comes studded with garlic and tossed with thick slices of preserved sausage until it’s slicked with pork fat and salty juices. It’s one of the most delicious and addicting vegetable stir-fries I’ve eaten in a while.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taishanese food is probably best known for its claypot rice dishes, the most famous being yellow eel claypot rice. At Taishan Cuisine, it’s the biggest splurge on the menu at $48, but the portion is big enough to feed four people easily. It’s hard to describe how fragrant this pot of rice was when our server lifted up the lid. Again, there isn’t much seasoning to speak of — just a bit of soy sauce mixed with rendered eel fat to coat each glistening grain of rice. The eel itself, shredded into small chunks, tastes akin to a mild catfish — mild enough that you can order the dish as a fine and luxurious substitute for white rice, to accompany the rest of your meal. And the best part? The toasty, crunchy, utterly glorious crust that forms at the bottom of the pot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we hadn’t already, in typical fashion, ordered way too much food for two people, we would have loved to try the Taishan-style braised goose or cleansed our palate with the cloudy beef bone soup we saw on several other tables around us. As it was, I felt like we’d barely scratched the surface of what the restaurant, and the cuisine, had to offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the last few weeks, then, this is the meal I keep thinking about. When the hunger pangs strike past midnight, I start daydreaming about claypot rice — and, maybe, for a return to a time when all of Chinatown is lit up late into the night with jook shops and noodle houses and stylish Hong Kong–style cafes. For now, it’ll have to be enough to plan my next meal at Taishan Cuisine. As long as they’re around, Chinatown’s late-night food scene isn’t dead yet.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Taishan Cuisine is open 11 a.m.–3 p.m. and 5 p.m.–3 a.m. daily at 781 Broadway in San Francisco.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>These days, it feels like nearly every taco truck and taqueria in the Bay Area is slinging quesabirria — those glistening-red, consomé-soaked tacos with their crispy edges and long pulls of stretchy cheese. But before all that, there was El Garage. In the halcyon pre-pandemic days of 2019, the Richmond pop-up was the \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/11/21/20937687/el-garage-quesabirria-birria-taco-richmond-instagram\">first quesabirria purveyor to truly blow up\u003c/a> in the Bay, and its success helped bring these Tijuana-by-way-of-L.A. beef birria tacos into the mainstream, paving the way for them to become a fixture of our region’s Mexican American food scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, in August, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DA7LNKbyL_6/?hl=en\">El Garage quietly closed\u003c/a> — or at least its brick-and-mortar restaurant in Richmond did, ending a four-year run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Viviana Montano, who runs the business along with her parents and sisters, says El Garage isn’t going anywhere. Instead, the family will focus once again on pop-ups and catering. They’ve already set up one twice-a-month gig at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/dokkaebier_oakland/?hl=en\">Dokkaebier\u003c/a> taproom in Oakland, and they have several other pop-ups in the works — including a possible regular collaboration with Berkeley Bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967250\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967250\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior.jpg\" alt=\"Exterior of El Garage taqueria on a sunny day.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1374\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-1536x1055.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-1920x1319.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The brick-and-mortar restaurant in Richmond never got much foot traffic. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to Montano, closing the restaurant was one the hardest decisions her family has had to make, but it also seemed inevitable for the better part of a year. “We just weren’t bringing enough people in,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fans of the taqueria might be familiar with the basic outlines of \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/11/21/20937687/el-garage-quesabirria-birria-taco-richmond-instagram\">El Garage’s story\u003c/a>: It started as a modest driveway operation in a residential neighborhood, went viral on \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/el_gaaarage/?hl=en\">Instagram\u003c/a> to the point of routinely attracting hour-long lines and eventually, with much fanfare, \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/7/9/21319032/quesabirria-tacos-el-garage-richmond\">opened a 5,000-square-foot restaurant\u003c/a> a few blocks away from the Richmond BART station. For many Bay Area food lovers, El Garage’s quesabirria wasn’t \u003ci>just\u003c/i> their introduction to a new taco style. It was one the best tacos they’d ever eaten, period.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the brick-and-mortar restaurant just never caught on, even as the Montanos expanded their menu to include other crowdpleasers, like pozole and shrimp taquitos. Part of the problem was that there aren’t really any other notable restaurants or attractions in that particular stretch of Richmond, so foot traffic was minimal. Even at the height of El Garage’s popularity, almost all of the business at the restaurant came from takeout and catering. And even when a handful of dine-in customers did sit down for a meal, the dining room still looked empty and sad because it was so big. It became a sort of self-fulfilling feedback loop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967251\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967251\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos.jpg\" alt=\"Shrimp taquitos in a takeout container.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant introduced new dishes, like this take on shrimp taquitos. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Most of our orders every day would just be DoorDash or UberEats. The restaurant was functioning as a ghost kitchen, essentially,” Montano says. In the end, paying rent for such a giant space just wasn’t sustainable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13963832,arts_13895488']Now that the restaurant is closed, the Montanos are fully focused on doing pop-ups and events — in a sense, going back to their roots as a renegade driveway taco stand. The one regular pop-up they’ve already set up — at Dokkaebier’s Jack London Square taproom — will take place every other Saturday. (The next one is on Oct. 26.) And Montano says she’s also in talks with a restaurant in San Francisco’s Mission District about the possibility of setting up another recurring pop-up there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps most exciting, Montano says El Garage is currently in the process of scheduling its first pop-up at the cafe at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/berkeleybowl/\">Berkeley Bowl West\u003c/a>, probably for sometime in November. If all goes well, that, too, might turn into a regular, long-term gig for as many as two or three days a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967253\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967253\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up.jpg\" alt=\"A cook makes tacos on a flat-top grill set up inside a tent.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">El Garage’s original pop-up (circa 2019) took place inside a tent that was set up in the Montanos’ driveway. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the future, Montano says, El Garage would be open to exploring the possibility of opening a smaller restaurant in a better, more central location. But for now, the family feels much more comfortable with the pop-up model — and they’re confident that their food is good enough, and has big enough of a following, that customers will seek them out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s a less stressful situation than having that 5,000-square-foot restaurant,” Montano says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/el_gaaarage/?hl=en\">\u003ci>El Garage\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> currently pops up on every second and fourth Saturday of the month at \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/dokkaebier_oakland/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Dokkaebier\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (420 3rd St.) in Oakland, 2–7:30 p.m. — the next one will be on Saturday, Oct. 26.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967254\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967254\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup.jpg\" alt=\"Closeup of a quesabirria taco, with charred edges on the outside of the tortilla.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Close-up of the cheesy, well-charred goodness. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The quesabirria sensation’s Richmond brick-and-mortar just never really took off.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>These days, it feels like nearly every taco truck and taqueria in the Bay Area is slinging quesabirria — those glistening-red, consomé-soaked tacos with their crispy edges and long pulls of stretchy cheese. But before all that, there was El Garage. In the halcyon pre-pandemic days of 2019, the Richmond pop-up was the \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/11/21/20937687/el-garage-quesabirria-birria-taco-richmond-instagram\">first quesabirria purveyor to truly blow up\u003c/a> in the Bay, and its success helped bring these Tijuana-by-way-of-L.A. beef birria tacos into the mainstream, paving the way for them to become a fixture of our region’s Mexican American food scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, in August, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DA7LNKbyL_6/?hl=en\">El Garage quietly closed\u003c/a> — or at least its brick-and-mortar restaurant in Richmond did, ending a four-year run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Viviana Montano, who runs the business along with her parents and sisters, says El Garage isn’t going anywhere. Instead, the family will focus once again on pop-ups and catering. They’ve already set up one twice-a-month gig at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/dokkaebier_oakland/?hl=en\">Dokkaebier\u003c/a> taproom in Oakland, and they have several other pop-ups in the works — including a possible regular collaboration with Berkeley Bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967250\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967250\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior.jpg\" alt=\"Exterior of El Garage taqueria on a sunny day.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1374\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-1536x1055.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-1920x1319.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The brick-and-mortar restaurant in Richmond never got much foot traffic. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to Montano, closing the restaurant was one the hardest decisions her family has had to make, but it also seemed inevitable for the better part of a year. “We just weren’t bringing enough people in,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fans of the taqueria might be familiar with the basic outlines of \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/11/21/20937687/el-garage-quesabirria-birria-taco-richmond-instagram\">El Garage’s story\u003c/a>: It started as a modest driveway operation in a residential neighborhood, went viral on \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/el_gaaarage/?hl=en\">Instagram\u003c/a> to the point of routinely attracting hour-long lines and eventually, with much fanfare, \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/7/9/21319032/quesabirria-tacos-el-garage-richmond\">opened a 5,000-square-foot restaurant\u003c/a> a few blocks away from the Richmond BART station. For many Bay Area food lovers, El Garage’s quesabirria wasn’t \u003ci>just\u003c/i> their introduction to a new taco style. It was one the best tacos they’d ever eaten, period.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the brick-and-mortar restaurant just never caught on, even as the Montanos expanded their menu to include other crowdpleasers, like pozole and shrimp taquitos. Part of the problem was that there aren’t really any other notable restaurants or attractions in that particular stretch of Richmond, so foot traffic was minimal. Even at the height of El Garage’s popularity, almost all of the business at the restaurant came from takeout and catering. And even when a handful of dine-in customers did sit down for a meal, the dining room still looked empty and sad because it was so big. It became a sort of self-fulfilling feedback loop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967251\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967251\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos.jpg\" alt=\"Shrimp taquitos in a takeout container.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant introduced new dishes, like this take on shrimp taquitos. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Most of our orders every day would just be DoorDash or UberEats. The restaurant was functioning as a ghost kitchen, essentially,” Montano says. In the end, paying rent for such a giant space just wasn’t sustainable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Now that the restaurant is closed, the Montanos are fully focused on doing pop-ups and events — in a sense, going back to their roots as a renegade driveway taco stand. The one regular pop-up they’ve already set up — at Dokkaebier’s Jack London Square taproom — will take place every other Saturday. (The next one is on Oct. 26.) And Montano says she’s also in talks with a restaurant in San Francisco’s Mission District about the possibility of setting up another recurring pop-up there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps most exciting, Montano says El Garage is currently in the process of scheduling its first pop-up at the cafe at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/berkeleybowl/\">Berkeley Bowl West\u003c/a>, probably for sometime in November. If all goes well, that, too, might turn into a regular, long-term gig for as many as two or three days a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967253\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967253\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up.jpg\" alt=\"A cook makes tacos on a flat-top grill set up inside a tent.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">El Garage’s original pop-up (circa 2019) took place inside a tent that was set up in the Montanos’ driveway. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the future, Montano says, El Garage would be open to exploring the possibility of opening a smaller restaurant in a better, more central location. But for now, the family feels much more comfortable with the pop-up model — and they’re confident that their food is good enough, and has big enough of a following, that customers will seek them out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s a less stressful situation than having that 5,000-square-foot restaurant,” Montano says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/el_gaaarage/?hl=en\">\u003ci>El Garage\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> currently pops up on every second and fourth Saturday of the month at \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/dokkaebier_oakland/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Dokkaebier\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (420 3rd St.) in Oakland, 2–7:30 p.m. — the next one will be on Saturday, Oct. 26.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967254\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967254\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup.jpg\" alt=\"Closeup of a quesabirria taco, with charred edges on the outside of the tortilla.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Close-up of the cheesy, well-charred goodness. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Local Chefs Aren’t Surprised to See Oakland Named America’s Top Food City",
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"content": "\u003cp>When Chef Nelson German opened his first Oakland restaurant, alaMar, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/137985/with-seafood-restaurant-alamar-oakland-chef-nelson-german-breaks-from-black-chef-stereotypes\">seafood-forward\u003c/a> concept, he said it encapsulated a part of himself — the one forged in the hustle of working at New York City restaurants and abroad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I was focusing on what worked in the past, to do certain types of cuisines in order to be known and be recognized,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as German spent more time in Oakland, he decided that what he really wanted to do was dig into his Dominican roots. So, he rebranded the business as \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/alamaroakland/?hl=en\">alaMar Dominican Kitchen\u003c/a> — currently the only Dominican restaurant in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>German belongs to a generation of Oakland chefs who are rooting for the city. They acknowledge the many problems it faces — crime, homelessness and political unrest — but are steadfast in the promise of the Town’s vibrant food scene. And apparently food lovers around the country agree: Oakland was recently \u003ca href=\"https://www.cntraveler.com/gallery/best-food-cities-in-the-us-readers-choice-awards\">recognized as the number one food city in the United States\u003c/a> by Condé Nast Traveler’s annual reader’s choice award. It was the only city on the entire West Coast to make the list.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967126\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967126\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021.jpg\" alt=\"A chef poses inside his restaurant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nelson German at his restaurant alaMar, circa 2020. \u003ccite>(Amir Abdul-Shakur)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The accolade took particular note of Oakland’s “diverse food scene.” Just across nearly 80 square miles, you can find a vast variety of cuisines represented. Most other major cities have that. But German and other chefs who spoke with KQED say the city’s culinary offerings are in their own realm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Everything that you’re seeing with all these different cultures are from people from that culture,” he said. “It’s not ‘un blanquito’ opening a Dominican restaurant or something like that. It’s people who have lived it. We’re all embracing whether we’re Asian, Hispanic, Black, embracing our direct lineage — not just a whole continent. The country, the tribes, the city, everything. And it’s really showcased here, with the food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Weyanti Ahmed, born in Sudan and raised in Oakland, said that there’s more to this metropolitan’s special sauce. When she first started selling food out of her home kitchen in Union City, she said most of her customers were from Oakland who were attracted to her soul food comforts, including fried catfish accompanied by garlic noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, around three years ago, as the COVID-19 pandemic hit, Ahmed opened her own place, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ys_choice_/?hl=en\">Y’s Choice\u003c/a>, in Jack London Square. It was a homecoming for Ahmed, and she said she’s grateful that Oakland’s supportive food scene has allowed her to keep going.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, to be back in Oakland, and to be given this opportunity, to be in a restaurant in Oakland is amazing,” she said. “[Oakland] has given opportunities for people such as myself.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967127\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967127\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2.jpg\" alt=\"The Tamales Acapulco food trailer parked in Oakland's Fruitvale District.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the many Latin American food trailers and other street vendors in Oakland’s Fruitvale District. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Condé Nast Traveler gave a specific shoutout to the Fruitvale neighborhood, saying the taco trucks there are serving up some of the best birria in the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13963726,arts_13960933,arts_13958114']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>“It’s a big deal for those of us running small businesses,” Álvaro Ramos said in Spanish. Ramos is the owner of the Fruitvale-based food truck, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/la_grana_fish_oakland/?hl=en\">La Grana Fish\u003c/a>, which gets rave reviews on Yelp and other websites for its fish and birria tacos. “This is an opportunity to continue this beautiful work in trying to serve authentic Mexican cuisine.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ramos, who immigrated to the Bay Area from Jalisco, Mexico, has been running his food truck for five years now. He said the secret to his popular tacos is all in the seasoning, the quality of the meat and plenty of TLC.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same can be said for Oakland’s culinary brand, whose secret sauce seems to be some combination of culturally specific flavors and community spirit. It’s worked up to now, anyway: At least on this one survey, Oakland beat out better-known food cities like New Orleans and Chicago.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When Chef Nelson German opened his first Oakland restaurant, alaMar, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/137985/with-seafood-restaurant-alamar-oakland-chef-nelson-german-breaks-from-black-chef-stereotypes\">seafood-forward\u003c/a> concept, he said it encapsulated a part of himself — the one forged in the hustle of working at New York City restaurants and abroad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I was focusing on what worked in the past, to do certain types of cuisines in order to be known and be recognized,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as German spent more time in Oakland, he decided that what he really wanted to do was dig into his Dominican roots. So, he rebranded the business as \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/alamaroakland/?hl=en\">alaMar Dominican Kitchen\u003c/a> — currently the only Dominican restaurant in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>German belongs to a generation of Oakland chefs who are rooting for the city. They acknowledge the many problems it faces — crime, homelessness and political unrest — but are steadfast in the promise of the Town’s vibrant food scene. And apparently food lovers around the country agree: Oakland was recently \u003ca href=\"https://www.cntraveler.com/gallery/best-food-cities-in-the-us-readers-choice-awards\">recognized as the number one food city in the United States\u003c/a> by Condé Nast Traveler’s annual reader’s choice award. It was the only city on the entire West Coast to make the list.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967126\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967126\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021.jpg\" alt=\"A chef poses inside his restaurant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nelson German at his restaurant alaMar, circa 2020. \u003ccite>(Amir Abdul-Shakur)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The accolade took particular note of Oakland’s “diverse food scene.” Just across nearly 80 square miles, you can find a vast variety of cuisines represented. Most other major cities have that. But German and other chefs who spoke with KQED say the city’s culinary offerings are in their own realm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Everything that you’re seeing with all these different cultures are from people from that culture,” he said. “It’s not ‘un blanquito’ opening a Dominican restaurant or something like that. It’s people who have lived it. We’re all embracing whether we’re Asian, Hispanic, Black, embracing our direct lineage — not just a whole continent. The country, the tribes, the city, everything. And it’s really showcased here, with the food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Weyanti Ahmed, born in Sudan and raised in Oakland, said that there’s more to this metropolitan’s special sauce. When she first started selling food out of her home kitchen in Union City, she said most of her customers were from Oakland who were attracted to her soul food comforts, including fried catfish accompanied by garlic noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, around three years ago, as the COVID-19 pandemic hit, Ahmed opened her own place, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ys_choice_/?hl=en\">Y’s Choice\u003c/a>, in Jack London Square. It was a homecoming for Ahmed, and she said she’s grateful that Oakland’s supportive food scene has allowed her to keep going.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, to be back in Oakland, and to be given this opportunity, to be in a restaurant in Oakland is amazing,” she said. “[Oakland] has given opportunities for people such as myself.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967127\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967127\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2.jpg\" alt=\"The Tamales Acapulco food trailer parked in Oakland's Fruitvale District.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the many Latin American food trailers and other street vendors in Oakland’s Fruitvale District. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Condé Nast Traveler gave a specific shoutout to the Fruitvale neighborhood, saying the taco trucks there are serving up some of the best birria in the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>“It’s a big deal for those of us running small businesses,” Álvaro Ramos said in Spanish. Ramos is the owner of the Fruitvale-based food truck, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/la_grana_fish_oakland/?hl=en\">La Grana Fish\u003c/a>, which gets rave reviews on Yelp and other websites for its fish and birria tacos. “This is an opportunity to continue this beautiful work in trying to serve authentic Mexican cuisine.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ramos, who immigrated to the Bay Area from Jalisco, Mexico, has been running his food truck for five years now. He said the secret to his popular tacos is all in the seasoning, the quality of the meat and plenty of TLC.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same can be said for Oakland’s culinary brand, whose secret sauce seems to be some combination of culturally specific flavors and community spirit. It’s worked up to now, anyway: At least on this one survey, Oakland beat out better-known food cities like New Orleans and Chicago.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966816\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966816\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men eating ice cream outside an ice cream shop at night. The sign above reads, "Mitchell's Ice Cream."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A San Francisco classic since 1953, Mitchell’s Ice Cream’s Mission District shop is known for its tropical fruit flavors and its late-night hours. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you wondered what everyone in San Francisco was doing at 10:30 on a Friday night during the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/science/1994643/yes-these-california-heat-waves-are-connected-to-climate-change-heres-how\">hottest week\u003c/a> of the entire year, I can offer some insight: Almost all of them were standing in line outside \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mitchellsicecreamsanfran/?hl=en\">Mitchell’s Ice Cream\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s what it felt like, anyway, when we pulled up to the classic Mission District scoop shop, sticky with the sweat of yet \u003ci>another\u003c/i> 90-degree October day. Even half an hour before closing time, there were probably three dozen eager ice cream eaters gathered on the sidewalk and crammed inside the shop — a 20-minute wait at a minimum after you grab your number from the ticket machine inside. Go on a weekend, almost any time of day, and it’s always the same. This is an ice cream shop for people who don’t mind standing in line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyway, Mitchell’s enduring popularity — \u003ca href=\"https://mitchellsicecream.com/celebrating-70-years/\">now going on 71 years\u003c/a> — speaks for itself. On the night of our recent visit, the chatty, upbeat crowd consisted of almost every imaginable demographic: flocks of teens, big, multigenerational immigrant families (Arab, South Asian and Filipino American), jocks, nerds, lovey-dovey young couples and at least a handful of solo middle-aged men treating themselves to a late-night sundae (because why not).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that’s because in the Bay Area ice cream scene, Mitchell’s has long been the people’s choice — the big-name San Francisco ice cream brand that most resonates with so many of our region’s multicultural communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some context: When it comes to ice cream, I’ve always been a texture snob, which means I usually gravitate toward newer-school shops that emphasize the extra-creaminess of their product — say, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/biritecreamery/\">Bi-Rite\u003c/a> or a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lushgelato\">Lush\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/the-mad-science-of-gelato-1/\">Gelato\u003c/a>. Mitchell’s, on the other hand, makes pretty classic, old-fashioned hard scoop ice cream. What sets it apart is its near-encyclopedic selection of tropical fruit flavors you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else, at least in the same quality and sheer variety: mango, lychee, ube, avocado (treated properly here as a fruit, as it is throughout most of Asia), lucuma, coconut pineapple, jackfruit and more. Back in the ’60s and ’70s, it was the \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/mitchells-ice-cream-has-Filipino-flavors-sf-16588683.php\">first ice cream shop to bring these tropical flavors to the Bay Area\u003c/a>, using fruit imported directly from Southeast Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13966030,arts_13959808,arts_13956683']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>It’s no wonder, then, that in my heavily Latino neighborhood in Richmond, there are only two ice cream shops — and both of them sell Mitchell’s exclusively. And no wonder that the Bay Area’s Filipino American community has largely adopted the brand as its own. After all, what other local ice cream shop sells buko (young coconut), macapuno (“sweet, meaty coconut”) \u003ci>and \u003c/i>vegan roasted coconut flavors — all made with coconuts imported from the Philippines? And that’s before we even get to Mitchell’s two most iconic Filipino flavors, its mango and ube ice creams. The shop even sells a version of halo-halo, as a “sundae,” that’s as well regarded as many of the ones sold at proper Filipino restaurants. (In fact, for many years I labored under the illusion that Mitchell’s was actually owned by Filipinos. It isn’t.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when I’m in the mood to travel to that particular island of frozen-dessert paradise, Mitchell’s Ice Cream hits the spot like no other shop in the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966817\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966817\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Customers inside a busy ice cream shop.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even at 10:30 p.m., you can expect long lines. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What we loved, too, was the controlled chaos of the place on a busy night — the patience with which the staff divvied out sample tastes to the crowd pressed up against the display case; the hulking Australian who marveled, as he watched his sundae getting made, “This guy’s a legend. Look at the size of that, it’s the size of a baby’s bottom!” This is the kind of place where a stranger will, unprompted, give you a glowing review of the lucuma ice cream — a butterscotch-like flavor made with a Peruvian fruit, the man explained. It’s next on my list to try.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This time, we stuck to the classics: a double scoop of avocado and ube, both luxurious in both their bright colors and the way the flavors were a true, sweet distillation of the original fruit. And then, because we were caught up in the whole celebratory spirit of the place, we got one of Mitchell’s exorbitantly sized banana split sundaes — something we hadn’t even thought about ordering in years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What a joyous thing to eat! It came topped, old-school McDonald’s style, with strawberry sauce, peanuts and whipped cream, plus Maraschino cherries for good measure. For the ice cream, we’d chosen toasted almond (a more flavorful stand-in for vanilla) and mango (some of the best we’ve had in the States), adding a tropical twist to the all-American treat. And in the heat of the night, as we ate our sundae hunched over on the sidewalk, the strawberry sauce and the whipped cream and the melted parts of the ice cream slowly mixed together into the most delicious slurry.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mitchellsicecreamsanfran/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Mitchell’s Ice Cream\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 11 a.m.–11 p.m. daily at 688 San Jose Ave. in San Francisco. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966816\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966816\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men eating ice cream outside an ice cream shop at night. The sign above reads, "Mitchell's Ice Cream."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A San Francisco classic since 1953, Mitchell’s Ice Cream’s Mission District shop is known for its tropical fruit flavors and its late-night hours. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you wondered what everyone in San Francisco was doing at 10:30 on a Friday night during the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/science/1994643/yes-these-california-heat-waves-are-connected-to-climate-change-heres-how\">hottest week\u003c/a> of the entire year, I can offer some insight: Almost all of them were standing in line outside \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mitchellsicecreamsanfran/?hl=en\">Mitchell’s Ice Cream\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s what it felt like, anyway, when we pulled up to the classic Mission District scoop shop, sticky with the sweat of yet \u003ci>another\u003c/i> 90-degree October day. Even half an hour before closing time, there were probably three dozen eager ice cream eaters gathered on the sidewalk and crammed inside the shop — a 20-minute wait at a minimum after you grab your number from the ticket machine inside. Go on a weekend, almost any time of day, and it’s always the same. This is an ice cream shop for people who don’t mind standing in line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyway, Mitchell’s enduring popularity — \u003ca href=\"https://mitchellsicecream.com/celebrating-70-years/\">now going on 71 years\u003c/a> — speaks for itself. On the night of our recent visit, the chatty, upbeat crowd consisted of almost every imaginable demographic: flocks of teens, big, multigenerational immigrant families (Arab, South Asian and Filipino American), jocks, nerds, lovey-dovey young couples and at least a handful of solo middle-aged men treating themselves to a late-night sundae (because why not).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that’s because in the Bay Area ice cream scene, Mitchell’s has long been the people’s choice — the big-name San Francisco ice cream brand that most resonates with so many of our region’s multicultural communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some context: When it comes to ice cream, I’ve always been a texture snob, which means I usually gravitate toward newer-school shops that emphasize the extra-creaminess of their product — say, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/biritecreamery/\">Bi-Rite\u003c/a> or a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lushgelato\">Lush\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/the-mad-science-of-gelato-1/\">Gelato\u003c/a>. Mitchell’s, on the other hand, makes pretty classic, old-fashioned hard scoop ice cream. What sets it apart is its near-encyclopedic selection of tropical fruit flavors you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else, at least in the same quality and sheer variety: mango, lychee, ube, avocado (treated properly here as a fruit, as it is throughout most of Asia), lucuma, coconut pineapple, jackfruit and more. Back in the ’60s and ’70s, it was the \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/mitchells-ice-cream-has-Filipino-flavors-sf-16588683.php\">first ice cream shop to bring these tropical flavors to the Bay Area\u003c/a>, using fruit imported directly from Southeast Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>It’s no wonder, then, that in my heavily Latino neighborhood in Richmond, there are only two ice cream shops — and both of them sell Mitchell’s exclusively. And no wonder that the Bay Area’s Filipino American community has largely adopted the brand as its own. After all, what other local ice cream shop sells buko (young coconut), macapuno (“sweet, meaty coconut”) \u003ci>and \u003c/i>vegan roasted coconut flavors — all made with coconuts imported from the Philippines? And that’s before we even get to Mitchell’s two most iconic Filipino flavors, its mango and ube ice creams. The shop even sells a version of halo-halo, as a “sundae,” that’s as well regarded as many of the ones sold at proper Filipino restaurants. (In fact, for many years I labored under the illusion that Mitchell’s was actually owned by Filipinos. It isn’t.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when I’m in the mood to travel to that particular island of frozen-dessert paradise, Mitchell’s Ice Cream hits the spot like no other shop in the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966817\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966817\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Customers inside a busy ice cream shop.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even at 10:30 p.m., you can expect long lines. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What we loved, too, was the controlled chaos of the place on a busy night — the patience with which the staff divvied out sample tastes to the crowd pressed up against the display case; the hulking Australian who marveled, as he watched his sundae getting made, “This guy’s a legend. Look at the size of that, it’s the size of a baby’s bottom!” This is the kind of place where a stranger will, unprompted, give you a glowing review of the lucuma ice cream — a butterscotch-like flavor made with a Peruvian fruit, the man explained. It’s next on my list to try.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This time, we stuck to the classics: a double scoop of avocado and ube, both luxurious in both their bright colors and the way the flavors were a true, sweet distillation of the original fruit. And then, because we were caught up in the whole celebratory spirit of the place, we got one of Mitchell’s exorbitantly sized banana split sundaes — something we hadn’t even thought about ordering in years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What a joyous thing to eat! It came topped, old-school McDonald’s style, with strawberry sauce, peanuts and whipped cream, plus Maraschino cherries for good measure. For the ice cream, we’d chosen toasted almond (a more flavorful stand-in for vanilla) and mango (some of the best we’ve had in the States), adding a tropical twist to the all-American treat. And in the heat of the night, as we ate our sundae hunched over on the sidewalk, the strawberry sauce and the whipped cream and the melted parts of the ice cream slowly mixed together into the most delicious slurry.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mitchellsicecreamsanfran/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Mitchell’s Ice Cream\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 11 a.m.–11 p.m. daily at 688 San Jose Ave. in San Francisco. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "durian-east-bay-richmond-99-ranch-malaysian",
"title": "A Swanky New Durian Shop Opens in the East Bay",
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"content": "\u003cp>At first glance, the newest trendy-looking store in Richmond’s Pacific East Mall seems like it might be a sleek, high-end boba shop or purveyor of fancy Asian pastries. It’s got bright, colorful signage and an Instagram-friendly selfie spot: a pale-green sofa with \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925835/durian-bay-area-love-letter-singaporean-culture\">durian\u003c/a>-shaped throw pillows, positioned next to a lush faux-durian tree, underneath which sits a teddy bear assembled out of spiky balls that look exactly like freshly picked durians.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the giant, larger-than-life plastic mascot sitting just inside the entrance with a crown on top of his head? Definitely some kind of Boy Durian King, his whole body encased in the spiky shell of Southeast Asia’s King of Fruits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In case it isn’t already clear: JQ&B Liu Shang Pin is an entire store specializing in durian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, the only products it sells are whole Malaysian durians, available in about 10 different varieties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966668\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966668\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display.jpg\" alt=\"Freezer cases filled with dozens of gold foil wrapped durians.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The shop sells about 10 different varieties of Malaysian durian, all picked ripe and flash-frozen. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Open since Oct. 4, Liu Shang Pin is the swankiest durian shop I’ve ever seen. It’s also the only one of its kind in the Bay Area that I’m aware of — selling durian but no other kinds of tropical fruit, and not even any durian drinks or desserts. Instead, the shop’s entire inventory is visible in four carefully ventilated and temperature-controlled freezer cases, where customers can find dozens of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925835/durian-bay-area-love-letter-singaporean-culture\">famously pungent fruits\u003c/a>, each specimen wrapped in shiny gold foil, looking every bit like the luxury food items they are.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It should come as no surprise, then, that the durians at Liu Shang Pin aren’t cheap. Prices range from $16.99 a pound at the low end to a whopping $23.99 a pound for the \u003ca href=\"https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=4cec7896052ae80c03ef5f6118c58c0f&topic=4076.0\">super-trendy Black Thorn variety\u003c/a>, with each spiky-shelled fruit weighing in at four to five pounds. (The Musang King, probably Malaysia’s most famous and popular durian variety, rings up at $17.99 a pound.) In some cases, that means you’re paying more than $100 for a single durian — an expense too hard to swallow even for this durian lover (who, unfortunately, lives in a household of non-durian-eaters). Meanwhile, on the same day as my visit, the 99 Ranch supermarket just down the hall was selling Thai durians for only $11.99 a pound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13925835,arts_13953078,forum_2010101893028']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Of course, 99 Ranch doesn’t sell whole Black Thorns or Musang Kings, to say nothing of the other more obscure varietals sold at Liu Shang Pin. And many supermarkets in the U.S. only sell durians that have been \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2024/06/16/business/durian-china-malaysia-thailand.html\">picked long before they’re ripe\u003c/a>, mainly because the fruit’s shelf life is so short. In those cases, the durian will never fully achieve the rich pungency, sweetness and custardy texture that it’s known for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The owners of Liu Shang Pin, on the other hand, say they’re selling mature durians that are picked and \u003ca href=\"https://www.myfoodresearch.com/uploads/8/4/8/5/84855864/_44__fr-2021-428_razali.pdf\">flash-frozen\u003c/a> when they’re fully ripe. Once you bring the durian home, you just need to let it sit at room temperature for about five hours before cracking it open.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Could durian emerge as the Bay Area’s hottest new luxury food? While the fruit has always been held in the highest esteem by our region’s Southeast Asian communities, conventional wisdom has generally held that it’s just \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2007/05/12/10016534/ooh-that-smell-designing-a-stinkless-durian\">too “stinky”\u003c/a> to attain mainstream popularity in the U.S. What Liu Shang Pin seems to be going for, though, is the connoisseurs’ market — folks for whom a $100 durian might seem like a bargain if it saves you from having to buy a plane ticket to Malaysia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966669\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966669\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king.jpg\" alt='A giant, plastic \"durian king\" mascot with a spiky shell and a crown on his head.' width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The shop’s “durian king” mascot. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>JQ&B Liu Shang Pi is open daily inside the Pacific East Mall (3288 Pierce St.) in Richmond.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>At first glance, the newest trendy-looking store in Richmond’s Pacific East Mall seems like it might be a sleek, high-end boba shop or purveyor of fancy Asian pastries. It’s got bright, colorful signage and an Instagram-friendly selfie spot: a pale-green sofa with \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925835/durian-bay-area-love-letter-singaporean-culture\">durian\u003c/a>-shaped throw pillows, positioned next to a lush faux-durian tree, underneath which sits a teddy bear assembled out of spiky balls that look exactly like freshly picked durians.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the giant, larger-than-life plastic mascot sitting just inside the entrance with a crown on top of his head? Definitely some kind of Boy Durian King, his whole body encased in the spiky shell of Southeast Asia’s King of Fruits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In case it isn’t already clear: JQ&B Liu Shang Pin is an entire store specializing in durian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, the only products it sells are whole Malaysian durians, available in about 10 different varieties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966668\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966668\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display.jpg\" alt=\"Freezer cases filled with dozens of gold foil wrapped durians.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The shop sells about 10 different varieties of Malaysian durian, all picked ripe and flash-frozen. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Open since Oct. 4, Liu Shang Pin is the swankiest durian shop I’ve ever seen. It’s also the only one of its kind in the Bay Area that I’m aware of — selling durian but no other kinds of tropical fruit, and not even any durian drinks or desserts. Instead, the shop’s entire inventory is visible in four carefully ventilated and temperature-controlled freezer cases, where customers can find dozens of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925835/durian-bay-area-love-letter-singaporean-culture\">famously pungent fruits\u003c/a>, each specimen wrapped in shiny gold foil, looking every bit like the luxury food items they are.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It should come as no surprise, then, that the durians at Liu Shang Pin aren’t cheap. Prices range from $16.99 a pound at the low end to a whopping $23.99 a pound for the \u003ca href=\"https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=4cec7896052ae80c03ef5f6118c58c0f&topic=4076.0\">super-trendy Black Thorn variety\u003c/a>, with each spiky-shelled fruit weighing in at four to five pounds. (The Musang King, probably Malaysia’s most famous and popular durian variety, rings up at $17.99 a pound.) In some cases, that means you’re paying more than $100 for a single durian — an expense too hard to swallow even for this durian lover (who, unfortunately, lives in a household of non-durian-eaters). Meanwhile, on the same day as my visit, the 99 Ranch supermarket just down the hall was selling Thai durians for only $11.99 a pound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Of course, 99 Ranch doesn’t sell whole Black Thorns or Musang Kings, to say nothing of the other more obscure varietals sold at Liu Shang Pin. And many supermarkets in the U.S. only sell durians that have been \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2024/06/16/business/durian-china-malaysia-thailand.html\">picked long before they’re ripe\u003c/a>, mainly because the fruit’s shelf life is so short. In those cases, the durian will never fully achieve the rich pungency, sweetness and custardy texture that it’s known for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The owners of Liu Shang Pin, on the other hand, say they’re selling mature durians that are picked and \u003ca href=\"https://www.myfoodresearch.com/uploads/8/4/8/5/84855864/_44__fr-2021-428_razali.pdf\">flash-frozen\u003c/a> when they’re fully ripe. Once you bring the durian home, you just need to let it sit at room temperature for about five hours before cracking it open.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Could durian emerge as the Bay Area’s hottest new luxury food? While the fruit has always been held in the highest esteem by our region’s Southeast Asian communities, conventional wisdom has generally held that it’s just \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2007/05/12/10016534/ooh-that-smell-designing-a-stinkless-durian\">too “stinky”\u003c/a> to attain mainstream popularity in the U.S. What Liu Shang Pin seems to be going for, though, is the connoisseurs’ market — folks for whom a $100 durian might seem like a bargain if it saves you from having to buy a plane ticket to Malaysia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966669\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966669\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king.jpg\" alt='A giant, plastic \"durian king\" mascot with a spiky shell and a crown on his head.' width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The shop’s “durian king” mascot. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>JQ&B Liu Shang Pi is open daily inside the Pacific East Mall (3288 Pierce St.) in Richmond.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "asian-american-chefs-msg-event-series-sf-chinatown-edge-on-the-square",
"title": "Asian American Chefs Talk MSG (Making, Sharing, Gathering) in SF Chinatown",
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"headTitle": "Asian American Chefs Talk MSG (Making, Sharing, Gathering) in SF Chinatown | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>You don’t have to go far back to remember when MSG was the most vilified ingredient in America. At the peak of this hysteria, in the ’80s and ’90s, the flavor enhancer was frequently \u003ca href=\"https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/its-the-umami-stupid-why-the-truth-about-msg-is-so-easy-to-swallow-180947626/\">maligned\u003c/a> as a grotesque transmitter of heart palpitations, migraine headaches and assorted other maladies — though, curiously, only when consumed in Chinese takeout and not, say, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/give-msg-a-chance\">bag of Doritos\u003c/a>. These days, of course, these sentiments have largely been debunked as \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2023/09/12/1197874002/umami-savory-taste-history\">bad science\u003c/a> (undergirded by a healthy dose of \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnn.com/2020/01/18/asia/chinese-restaurant-syndrome-msg-intl-hnk-scli/index.html\">racism\u003c/a>), and a new generation of young Asian American chefs have proudly taken up the MSG banner. (One \u003ca href=\"https://www.foodandwine.com/cook-with-msg-8421862\">trendy Cantonese American restaurant\u003c/a> in Brooklyn incorporates it into almost every dish.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s with a knowing and pointed wink, then, that \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/\">Edge on the Square\u003c/a>, a contemporary art hub in San Francisco Chinatown, named its new series of food workshops “MSG\u003ci>” \u003c/i>— only in this case, the letters stand for “making,” “sharing” and “gathering\u003ci>.\u003c/i>” And while monosodium glutamate itself won’t be a primary subject of discussion, those kinds of broader cultural narratives around Asian Americans and food very much \u003ci>are\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In other words, says Edge on the Square head curator Candace Huey, “If food is your primary point of contact about this culture, what types of myths and stereotypes can we dispel?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toward that end, \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/msg\">\u003ci>MSG: Making, Sharing, Gathering\u003c/i>\u003c/a> will feature six talented Asian American chefs, cookbook authors and pop-up entrepreneurs from around San Francisco and the East Bay, each of whom have their own particular relationships to food nostalgia, the Asian diaspora and, in some cases, San Francisco Chinatown itself. Joyce Tang, the Chinese American pastry chef behind Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bakesumpastries/?hl=en\">Bake Sum\u003c/a>, will kick off the series on \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/joyce-tang\">Saturday, Oct. 19\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966499\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966499\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1.jpg\" alt=\"A box of assorted pastries with Asian American flavors.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1984\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-800x794.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-1020x1012.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-160x159.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-768x762.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-1536x1524.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-1920x1905.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A box of assorted pastries from Bake Sum in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Joyce Tang)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Future editions will star Tracy Goh of the Malaysian restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13953078/curry-puff-malaysian-damansara-sf-noe-valley\">Damansara\u003c/a> (Dec. 8), chef Babo Waheed of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/babosconceptkitchen/\">Babo’s Kitchen\u003c/a> (Jan. 18), James Beard Award–winning cookbook author \u003ca href=\"https://eatchofood.com/\">Kristina Cho\u003c/a> (Feb. 8), \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/batikandbaker/?hl=en\">Batik and Baker’s\u003c/a> Audrey Tang (April 12) and Taiwanese dumpling specialist Henry Hsu of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eatoramasama/?hl=en\">Oramasama Dumplings\u003c/a> (May 18).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The workshops are meant to provide a critical lens on how food acts as an “identity marker” and how it helps shape the narrative of Asian America, Huey explains. “We’re thinking about questions related to immigrants and the different threads of colonization, as well as when you move through the pathway of diaspora, how that changes the rituals and the practices related to food preparation.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13962284,arts_13953078,arts_13924997']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>“Edge’s mission is always about how we can shift the narrative and how art” — and, in this case, food — “can be a vehicle for this widening of the aperture,” Huey says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each session will be different, but at the most basic level, there will always be a personal storytelling component and a Q&A. Each chef will share samples of their food (either cooked while guests watch or prepared ahead of time) that connect in some way to the story of their immigrant experience or their cultural heritage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the inaugural workshop, Bake Sum’s Tang will pass out a small box of pastries to help elucidate her theme of “Past, Present and Future.” Attendees will receive a green onion croissant that evokes Tang’s childhood memories of eating green onion pancakes in Chinatown, an okonomiyaki Danish that speaks to the present day and her interpretation of a mooncake, which points toward the future of Asian American diasporic cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Guests will sit at long banquet tables inside the gallery, in the heart of Chinatown, surrounded by the artwork in Edge on the Square’s current exhibition, \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/walking-stories\">\u003ci>Walking Stories\u003c/i>\u003c/a> — which, fittingly, is also centered on stories and storytellers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963121\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963121\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000.jpg\" alt=\"image of crowd holding banners under Chinatown lanterns and an image of a projection on a building front\" width=\"2000\" height=\"864\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-800x346.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-1020x441.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-160x69.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-768x332.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-1536x664.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-1920x829.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Scene from ‘Under the Same Sun,’ a previous event hosted by Edge on the Square. \u003ccite>(Henrik Kam)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tickets for the workshops are pay-what-you-can, with a suggested donation of $20 — though Linda Lui, the art hub’s communications director, stresses that they don’t want the cost to deter anyone from coming. Past Edge on the Square events, like a mahjong night and a concept barter shop, have drawn college students, prominent Asian American intellectuals and activists, and the local “popo” who walks past the Chinatown gallery every night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the \u003ci>MSG \u003c/i>series itself will run through May, that won’t be the end of the project. Edge on the Square is also collaborating with the \u003ca href=\"https://www.goodmedicinefilms.com/forever-chinatown\">Emmy-nominated\u003c/a> San Francisco director James Q. Chan, who will be on hand to film the workshops, with plans to turn them into a six-part documentary series.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/msg\">MSG: Making, Sharing, Gathering\u003c/a>\u003ci> workshops will be held approximately once a month, through May 2025, at Edge on the Square (800 Grant Ave., San Francisco). Tickets for each session will be released online 30 days in advance. The first workshop, featuring Joyce Tang of Bake Sum, will be on Saturday, Oct. 19, 4–5 p.m. Tickets are pay-what-you-can, but must be \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/joyce-tang\">\u003ci>reserved ahead of time\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, as seating is extremely limited.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>You don’t have to go far back to remember when MSG was the most vilified ingredient in America. At the peak of this hysteria, in the ’80s and ’90s, the flavor enhancer was frequently \u003ca href=\"https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/its-the-umami-stupid-why-the-truth-about-msg-is-so-easy-to-swallow-180947626/\">maligned\u003c/a> as a grotesque transmitter of heart palpitations, migraine headaches and assorted other maladies — though, curiously, only when consumed in Chinese takeout and not, say, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/give-msg-a-chance\">bag of Doritos\u003c/a>. These days, of course, these sentiments have largely been debunked as \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2023/09/12/1197874002/umami-savory-taste-history\">bad science\u003c/a> (undergirded by a healthy dose of \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnn.com/2020/01/18/asia/chinese-restaurant-syndrome-msg-intl-hnk-scli/index.html\">racism\u003c/a>), and a new generation of young Asian American chefs have proudly taken up the MSG banner. (One \u003ca href=\"https://www.foodandwine.com/cook-with-msg-8421862\">trendy Cantonese American restaurant\u003c/a> in Brooklyn incorporates it into almost every dish.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s with a knowing and pointed wink, then, that \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/\">Edge on the Square\u003c/a>, a contemporary art hub in San Francisco Chinatown, named its new series of food workshops “MSG\u003ci>” \u003c/i>— only in this case, the letters stand for “making,” “sharing” and “gathering\u003ci>.\u003c/i>” And while monosodium glutamate itself won’t be a primary subject of discussion, those kinds of broader cultural narratives around Asian Americans and food very much \u003ci>are\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In other words, says Edge on the Square head curator Candace Huey, “If food is your primary point of contact about this culture, what types of myths and stereotypes can we dispel?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toward that end, \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/msg\">\u003ci>MSG: Making, Sharing, Gathering\u003c/i>\u003c/a> will feature six talented Asian American chefs, cookbook authors and pop-up entrepreneurs from around San Francisco and the East Bay, each of whom have their own particular relationships to food nostalgia, the Asian diaspora and, in some cases, San Francisco Chinatown itself. Joyce Tang, the Chinese American pastry chef behind Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bakesumpastries/?hl=en\">Bake Sum\u003c/a>, will kick off the series on \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/joyce-tang\">Saturday, Oct. 19\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966499\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966499\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1.jpg\" alt=\"A box of assorted pastries with Asian American flavors.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1984\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-800x794.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-1020x1012.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-160x159.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-768x762.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-1536x1524.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-1920x1905.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A box of assorted pastries from Bake Sum in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Joyce Tang)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Future editions will star Tracy Goh of the Malaysian restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13953078/curry-puff-malaysian-damansara-sf-noe-valley\">Damansara\u003c/a> (Dec. 8), chef Babo Waheed of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/babosconceptkitchen/\">Babo’s Kitchen\u003c/a> (Jan. 18), James Beard Award–winning cookbook author \u003ca href=\"https://eatchofood.com/\">Kristina Cho\u003c/a> (Feb. 8), \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/batikandbaker/?hl=en\">Batik and Baker’s\u003c/a> Audrey Tang (April 12) and Taiwanese dumpling specialist Henry Hsu of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eatoramasama/?hl=en\">Oramasama Dumplings\u003c/a> (May 18).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>“Edge’s mission is always about how we can shift the narrative and how art” — and, in this case, food — “can be a vehicle for this widening of the aperture,” Huey says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each session will be different, but at the most basic level, there will always be a personal storytelling component and a Q&A. Each chef will share samples of their food (either cooked while guests watch or prepared ahead of time) that connect in some way to the story of their immigrant experience or their cultural heritage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the inaugural workshop, Bake Sum’s Tang will pass out a small box of pastries to help elucidate her theme of “Past, Present and Future.” Attendees will receive a green onion croissant that evokes Tang’s childhood memories of eating green onion pancakes in Chinatown, an okonomiyaki Danish that speaks to the present day and her interpretation of a mooncake, which points toward the future of Asian American diasporic cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Guests will sit at long banquet tables inside the gallery, in the heart of Chinatown, surrounded by the artwork in Edge on the Square’s current exhibition, \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/walking-stories\">\u003ci>Walking Stories\u003c/i>\u003c/a> — which, fittingly, is also centered on stories and storytellers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963121\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963121\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000.jpg\" alt=\"image of crowd holding banners under Chinatown lanterns and an image of a projection on a building front\" width=\"2000\" height=\"864\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-800x346.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-1020x441.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-160x69.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-768x332.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-1536x664.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-1920x829.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Scene from ‘Under the Same Sun,’ a previous event hosted by Edge on the Square. \u003ccite>(Henrik Kam)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tickets for the workshops are pay-what-you-can, with a suggested donation of $20 — though Linda Lui, the art hub’s communications director, stresses that they don’t want the cost to deter anyone from coming. Past Edge on the Square events, like a mahjong night and a concept barter shop, have drawn college students, prominent Asian American intellectuals and activists, and the local “popo” who walks past the Chinatown gallery every night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the \u003ci>MSG \u003c/i>series itself will run through May, that won’t be the end of the project. Edge on the Square is also collaborating with the \u003ca href=\"https://www.goodmedicinefilms.com/forever-chinatown\">Emmy-nominated\u003c/a> San Francisco director James Q. Chan, who will be on hand to film the workshops, with plans to turn them into a six-part documentary series.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/msg\">MSG: Making, Sharing, Gathering\u003c/a>\u003ci> workshops will be held approximately once a month, through May 2025, at Edge on the Square (800 Grant Ave., San Francisco). Tickets for each session will be released online 30 days in advance. The first workshop, featuring Joyce Tang of Bake Sum, will be on Saturday, Oct. 19, 4–5 p.m. Tickets are pay-what-you-can, but must be \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/joyce-tang\">\u003ci>reserved ahead of time\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, as seating is extremely limited.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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},
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"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareport",
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"order": 8
},
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"info": "Every week, The California Report Magazine takes you on a road trip for the ears: to visit the places and meet the people who make California unique. The in-depth storytelling podcast from the California Report.",
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},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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"order": 1
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"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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"order": 9
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"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
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"id": "fresh-air",
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"hidden-brain": {
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"source": "NPR"
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"how-i-built-this": {
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"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"hyphenacion": {
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"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"jerrybrown": {
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"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"order": 18
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},
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"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
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"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
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"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
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"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"masters-of-scale": {
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"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"source": "WaitWhat"
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
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"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 11
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