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"title": "Oakland’s Diaspora Co. Thinks You Should Put Jaggery in Everything",
"headTitle": "Oakland’s Diaspora Co. Thinks You Should Put Jaggery in Everything | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]E[/dropcap]very time Sana Javeri Kadri flies back to California from a visit to her hometown of Mumbai, India, she stuffs her suitcase full of treasure: hefty, golden-brown bricks of the South Asian sweetener known as jaggery. It’s been 10 years since Javeri Kadri, founder of Oakland-based spice company \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diaspora Co.\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, first immigrated to the United States. And for 10 years now, she’s been lugging back this precious cargo. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">What Javeri Kadri hadn’t thought to do until very recently, however, is to \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">sell\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> jaggery. This, despite the fact that her entire business is built around \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/pages/about\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">sourcing single-origin spices from small farms in India\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. It was just too troublesome, Javeri Kadri explains — there were too many regulations designed to protect the domestic sugar industry. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But a recent test batch that Diaspora Co. sold as part of its \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/products/chai-kit?variant=41596798271659\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">chai kit\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> was so wildly popular that Javeri Kadri decided to give it a go. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CjTG_VzrwoM/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In an announcement\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that thrilled Indian home cooks, Michelin-pedigreed chefs and hardcore chai enthusiasts alike, Diaspora Co. is now selling jaggery online to customers anywhere in the U.S. (and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/pages/faq\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">beyond\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">).\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jaggery, at its core, is sugarcane juice that’s boiled down and caramelized until it’s one step away from becoming sugar, Javeri Kadri explains. “It’s like sugar’s unrefined, much more nutritionally dense cousin,” she says. “I’ve been referring to it jokingly as the ‘OG, pre-colonial sweetener.’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920067\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1365px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920067\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks.jpg\" alt=\"Blocks of jaggery stacked on the ground, draped with colorful cloth.\" width=\"1365\" height=\"2048\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1365px) 100vw, 1365px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Blocks of jaggery in its finished form at the Randive family’s facility in the Daund region of India. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Diaspora Co.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Up until this point, jaggery has received little mainstream attention in the U.S. But on the Indian subcontinent (and throughout much of Southeast Asia), many people use jaggery as their default sweetener, shaving chunks of it into a coarse powder. And in recent years, Javeri Kadri explains, the product has enjoyed a resurgence in India as health-conscious middle- and upperclass elites have started to use it more frequently as an “old-school ingredient” in place of refined white sugar. (Many Latin American food cultures use a similar unrefined sweetener known as panela.)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The important thing, Javeri Kadri notes, is that jaggery also tastes better than white sugar — or, perhaps more to the point, it actually \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">has \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a taste beyond just sweetness. As Javeri Kadri puts it, “Jaggery is not just lending sweetness, but it’s also lending a depth of flavor.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“You can pick up hints of saltiness and earthiness,” says Nik Sharma, a Los Angeles-based cookbook author and former \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Francisco Chronicle \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">food columnist. “It also has a unique, molasses-like caramel aroma to it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sharma doesn’t limit his use of jaggery to its traditional Indian applications as the sweetener for masala chai and any number of curry recipes. His cookbook, \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Season, \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">includes a recipe for jaggery ice cream spiced with saffron and cardamom. And jaggery’s earthy, caramelly qualities also make it perfect for Western-style fall baking. Sharma uses it in place of brown sugar when baking chocolate chip cookies, snickerdoodles and ginger snaps. Javeri Kadri, for her part, uses it to sweeten her morning coffee.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Here in the U.S., however, jaggery is mostly only available in communities that have access to a South Asian grocery store, which likely gets the sweetener from a distributor “who bought it from a trader who bought it from another trader who bought it from another trader,” Javeri Kadri says. “It’s just as convoluted a supply chain as other spices.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For that reason, she says, much of the jaggery she has purchased from Indian markets in the Bay Area hasn’t been very good, often tending toward dry and somewhat stale — hence the trips to bring it back from the source in India.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920068\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920068\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri.jpg\" alt=\"A smiling woman in a checkered pink and yellow apron shows off a box of jarred spices in a matching pink and yellow box. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"2410\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-800x1004.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-1020x1280.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-160x201.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-768x964.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-1224x1536.jpg 1224w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-1632x2048.jpg 1632w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Diaspora Co founder Sana Javeri Kadri shows off a box of her company’s spices, including its new “Madhur Jaggery.” \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Diaspora Co.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When Diaspora Co. launched five years ago, the company’s explicit mission was to “decolonize” turmeric and the broader spice trade. You may recall 2016 as the year of the turmeric latte — or at least the year that Goop, Gwyneth Paltrow and the broader wellness industry \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/01/19/magazine/a-grandmothers-secret-turmeric-prescription.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">turned the centuries-old Indian home remedy known as haldi doodh\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> into a hip menu addition at American coffee shops. The wellness crowd’s subsequent obsession with turmeric itself usually \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://food52.com/blog/19083-how-indian-is-your-turmeric-latte\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">stripped the spice from its specific Indian context\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At the time, Javeri Kadri told \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Francisco Magaz\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">ine that if turmeric was going to become this buzzy ingredient in the West, she at least wanted “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://digital.modernluxury.com/publication/?m=3609&i=469140&view=articleBrowser&article_id=2985421&ver=html5\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">brown farmers to make as much money off of it as possible\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">” — especially in light of the many centuries of history in which the space trade itself was a prominent driver of colonialism. So Javeri Kadri launched Diaspora Co. in 2017 as a direct-trade spice company that started out selling just one spice — pragati turmeric, a very potent, marigold-orange varietal that she sourced from a single farmer in India, paying roughly \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://digital.modernluxury.com/publication/?m=3609&i=469140&view=articleBrowser&article_id=2985421&ver=html5\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">four times the commodity rate\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\"]“One difficult thing about trying to change the spice industry is that the food media tends to be more interested in identity politics than in the ethics of sourcing within a colonized industry such as the spice trade.”[/pullquote]Today, Diaspora Co. sells a full roster of 30 single-origin spices that it sources from 150 different farms spread across India and Sri Lanka. Its new “Madhur Jaggery” (“madhur,” a common Hindi name for a woman, means “sweet” or “gentle”) follows the same basic model. After tasting 12 jaggeries sourced from different farms in India, the company decided to buy jaggery from the Randive family, whose product was notable both for its depth of flavor and its \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126036/what-does-the-new-regenerative-organic-certification-mean-for-the-future-of-good-food\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">regenerative farming methods\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The family farm in India’s Daund region has been growing sugarcane organically for the past 14 years, processing it into jaggery mostly by hand. The Randives pulp the sugarcane down together with wild okra — to remove impurities, Javeri Kadri explains — and then boil down the juices and pulp in giant 12-foot vats.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920071\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2048px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920071\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive.jpg\" alt=\"A man stands in a field of sugarcane, the stalks of sugarcane behind him rising above his head.\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1365\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Farmer Kantilal Randive stands in a field of sugarcane at his organic farm in the Daund region of India. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Diaspora Co.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For convenience, Diaspora Co. is selling the finished product in powder form rather than the traditional blocks — $8 for a 2.47-ounce jar or $25 for a 500-gram bag.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the years since Diaspora Co.’s debut, the idea of “decolonizing” all kinds of different industries and products has gone mainstream. Folks have, variously, made it their mission to decolonize \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/21499205/black-indigenous-craft-chocolate-makers-history-industry\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">chocolate\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://oaklandside.org/2022/05/18/oakland-rooftop-medicine-farm-whole-foods/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">farmland\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2022/07/28/arts/design/raphael-montanez-ortiz-el-museuo-del-barrio.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">museums\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, to name just a few recent examples. The term has also become a sort of shorthand to indicate that the people behind a particular business venture are non-white — and in that way, Javeri Kadri says, it’s largely lost its meaning.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13912706,arts_13912976,arts_13919177']These days, Javeri Kadri says Diaspora Co. no longer uses the language of decolonization, instead preferring to reserve the term for indigenous activists who are pushing for \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11848769/the-east-bay-land-tax-that-supports-an-indigenous-women-led-trust\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">land rematriation\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “We can use ‘building a better spice trade’ or ‘giving power back to farmers,’” she says. “We don’t need that word.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">One difficult thing about trying to change the spice industry is that the food media tends to be more interested in identity politics than in the ethics of sourcing within a colonized industry such as the spice trade. And there’s no question: The rise of a company like Diaspora Co., with a queer immigrant woman like Javeri Kadri as its CEO, does represent an \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/21324312/diaspora-co-sana-javeri-kadri-sqirl-jam-collaboration\">important shift in power\u003c/a>. But what’s even \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">more\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> important, Javeri Kadri says, is for Diaspora Co. to make the best choices that it can make within the framework of capitalism—choices that benefit, rather than exploit, the farmers that they work with in India.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Representation matters,” Javeri Kadri says. “But in order to change a system, you have to go deeper than that.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diaspora Co.’s jaggery is available for purchase \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/products/madhur-jaggery?variant=42010287210667\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">online\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. It ships throughout the U.S., as well as \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/pages/faq\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Canada, Singapore, Indonesia, Japan, South Korea, Hong Kong, the EU and the UK\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The Oakland spice company is working with farmers in India to build a better spice trade.",
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"title": "Oakland’s Diaspora Co. Thinks You Should Put Jaggery in Everything | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">E\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>very time Sana Javeri Kadri flies back to California from a visit to her hometown of Mumbai, India, she stuffs her suitcase full of treasure: hefty, golden-brown bricks of the South Asian sweetener known as jaggery. It’s been 10 years since Javeri Kadri, founder of Oakland-based spice company \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diaspora Co.\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, first immigrated to the United States. And for 10 years now, she’s been lugging back this precious cargo. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">What Javeri Kadri hadn’t thought to do until very recently, however, is to \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">sell\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> jaggery. This, despite the fact that her entire business is built around \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/pages/about\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">sourcing single-origin spices from small farms in India\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. It was just too troublesome, Javeri Kadri explains — there were too many regulations designed to protect the domestic sugar industry. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But a recent test batch that Diaspora Co. sold as part of its \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/products/chai-kit?variant=41596798271659\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">chai kit\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> was so wildly popular that Javeri Kadri decided to give it a go. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CjTG_VzrwoM/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In an announcement\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that thrilled Indian home cooks, Michelin-pedigreed chefs and hardcore chai enthusiasts alike, Diaspora Co. is now selling jaggery online to customers anywhere in the U.S. (and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/pages/faq\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">beyond\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">).\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jaggery, at its core, is sugarcane juice that’s boiled down and caramelized until it’s one step away from becoming sugar, Javeri Kadri explains. “It’s like sugar’s unrefined, much more nutritionally dense cousin,” she says. “I’ve been referring to it jokingly as the ‘OG, pre-colonial sweetener.’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920067\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1365px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920067\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks.jpg\" alt=\"Blocks of jaggery stacked on the ground, draped with colorful cloth.\" width=\"1365\" height=\"2048\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1365px) 100vw, 1365px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Blocks of jaggery in its finished form at the Randive family’s facility in the Daund region of India. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Diaspora Co.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Up until this point, jaggery has received little mainstream attention in the U.S. But on the Indian subcontinent (and throughout much of Southeast Asia), many people use jaggery as their default sweetener, shaving chunks of it into a coarse powder. And in recent years, Javeri Kadri explains, the product has enjoyed a resurgence in India as health-conscious middle- and upperclass elites have started to use it more frequently as an “old-school ingredient” in place of refined white sugar. (Many Latin American food cultures use a similar unrefined sweetener known as panela.)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The important thing, Javeri Kadri notes, is that jaggery also tastes better than white sugar — or, perhaps more to the point, it actually \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">has \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a taste beyond just sweetness. As Javeri Kadri puts it, “Jaggery is not just lending sweetness, but it’s also lending a depth of flavor.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“You can pick up hints of saltiness and earthiness,” says Nik Sharma, a Los Angeles-based cookbook author and former \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Francisco Chronicle \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">food columnist. “It also has a unique, molasses-like caramel aroma to it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sharma doesn’t limit his use of jaggery to its traditional Indian applications as the sweetener for masala chai and any number of curry recipes. His cookbook, \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Season, \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">includes a recipe for jaggery ice cream spiced with saffron and cardamom. And jaggery’s earthy, caramelly qualities also make it perfect for Western-style fall baking. Sharma uses it in place of brown sugar when baking chocolate chip cookies, snickerdoodles and ginger snaps. Javeri Kadri, for her part, uses it to sweeten her morning coffee.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Here in the U.S., however, jaggery is mostly only available in communities that have access to a South Asian grocery store, which likely gets the sweetener from a distributor “who bought it from a trader who bought it from another trader who bought it from another trader,” Javeri Kadri says. “It’s just as convoluted a supply chain as other spices.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For that reason, she says, much of the jaggery she has purchased from Indian markets in the Bay Area hasn’t been very good, often tending toward dry and somewhat stale — hence the trips to bring it back from the source in India.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920068\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920068\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri.jpg\" alt=\"A smiling woman in a checkered pink and yellow apron shows off a box of jarred spices in a matching pink and yellow box. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"2410\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-800x1004.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-1020x1280.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-160x201.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-768x964.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-1224x1536.jpg 1224w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-1632x2048.jpg 1632w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Diaspora Co founder Sana Javeri Kadri shows off a box of her company’s spices, including its new “Madhur Jaggery.” \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Diaspora Co.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When Diaspora Co. launched five years ago, the company’s explicit mission was to “decolonize” turmeric and the broader spice trade. You may recall 2016 as the year of the turmeric latte — or at least the year that Goop, Gwyneth Paltrow and the broader wellness industry \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/01/19/magazine/a-grandmothers-secret-turmeric-prescription.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">turned the centuries-old Indian home remedy known as haldi doodh\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> into a hip menu addition at American coffee shops. The wellness crowd’s subsequent obsession with turmeric itself usually \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://food52.com/blog/19083-how-indian-is-your-turmeric-latte\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">stripped the spice from its specific Indian context\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At the time, Javeri Kadri told \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Francisco Magaz\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">ine that if turmeric was going to become this buzzy ingredient in the West, she at least wanted “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://digital.modernluxury.com/publication/?m=3609&i=469140&view=articleBrowser&article_id=2985421&ver=html5\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">brown farmers to make as much money off of it as possible\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">” — especially in light of the many centuries of history in which the space trade itself was a prominent driver of colonialism. So Javeri Kadri launched Diaspora Co. in 2017 as a direct-trade spice company that started out selling just one spice — pragati turmeric, a very potent, marigold-orange varietal that she sourced from a single farmer in India, paying roughly \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://digital.modernluxury.com/publication/?m=3609&i=469140&view=articleBrowser&article_id=2985421&ver=html5\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">four times the commodity rate\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Today, Diaspora Co. sells a full roster of 30 single-origin spices that it sources from 150 different farms spread across India and Sri Lanka. Its new “Madhur Jaggery” (“madhur,” a common Hindi name for a woman, means “sweet” or “gentle”) follows the same basic model. After tasting 12 jaggeries sourced from different farms in India, the company decided to buy jaggery from the Randive family, whose product was notable both for its depth of flavor and its \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126036/what-does-the-new-regenerative-organic-certification-mean-for-the-future-of-good-food\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">regenerative farming methods\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The family farm in India’s Daund region has been growing sugarcane organically for the past 14 years, processing it into jaggery mostly by hand. The Randives pulp the sugarcane down together with wild okra — to remove impurities, Javeri Kadri explains — and then boil down the juices and pulp in giant 12-foot vats.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920071\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2048px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920071\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive.jpg\" alt=\"A man stands in a field of sugarcane, the stalks of sugarcane behind him rising above his head.\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1365\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Farmer Kantilal Randive stands in a field of sugarcane at his organic farm in the Daund region of India. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Diaspora Co.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For convenience, Diaspora Co. is selling the finished product in powder form rather than the traditional blocks — $8 for a 2.47-ounce jar or $25 for a 500-gram bag.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the years since Diaspora Co.’s debut, the idea of “decolonizing” all kinds of different industries and products has gone mainstream. Folks have, variously, made it their mission to decolonize \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/21499205/black-indigenous-craft-chocolate-makers-history-industry\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">chocolate\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://oaklandside.org/2022/05/18/oakland-rooftop-medicine-farm-whole-foods/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">farmland\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2022/07/28/arts/design/raphael-montanez-ortiz-el-museuo-del-barrio.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">museums\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, to name just a few recent examples. The term has also become a sort of shorthand to indicate that the people behind a particular business venture are non-white — and in that way, Javeri Kadri says, it’s largely lost its meaning.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>These days, Javeri Kadri says Diaspora Co. no longer uses the language of decolonization, instead preferring to reserve the term for indigenous activists who are pushing for \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11848769/the-east-bay-land-tax-that-supports-an-indigenous-women-led-trust\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">land rematriation\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “We can use ‘building a better spice trade’ or ‘giving power back to farmers,’” she says. “We don’t need that word.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">One difficult thing about trying to change the spice industry is that the food media tends to be more interested in identity politics than in the ethics of sourcing within a colonized industry such as the spice trade. And there’s no question: The rise of a company like Diaspora Co., with a queer immigrant woman like Javeri Kadri as its CEO, does represent an \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/21324312/diaspora-co-sana-javeri-kadri-sqirl-jam-collaboration\">important shift in power\u003c/a>. But what’s even \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">more\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> important, Javeri Kadri says, is for Diaspora Co. to make the best choices that it can make within the framework of capitalism—choices that benefit, rather than exploit, the farmers that they work with in India.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Representation matters,” Javeri Kadri says. “But in order to change a system, you have to go deeper than that.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diaspora Co.’s jaggery is available for purchase \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/products/madhur-jaggery?variant=42010287210667\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">online\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. It ships throughout the U.S., as well as \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/pages/faq\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Canada, Singapore, Indonesia, Japan, South Korea, Hong Kong, the EU and the UK\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>[dropcap]Y[/dropcap]ou would never guess it, but there’s something transcendent about an otherwise bland National gas station on W. Grant Line Rd. in Tracy. On first appearance, it seems like any ordinary stop point in U.S. suburbia: People pull up in a hurry, fill up on petro, then hop back into their whips and speed off onto a multi-lane road on their way to whatever American Dream they are chasing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But between a Black Bear Diner and RV Center, right along Interstate 205, hides a clandestine gem exploding with Pinoy favorites. Here, at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ellis.creamery/\">Ellis Creamery\u003c/a>, Khristian Rabut experiments with distinctly Filipino ingredients to perfect his ice cream recipes while his wife Marie provides a full lineup of Filipino baked goods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The concept originally began in 2020, when Marie—who works full-time in healthcare—started a home-based business called Marie’s Kitchen as a way to explore her passion for baking. At the time, she wanted to supplement her income and provide a creative outlet. After gaining local recognition, she expanded her business and brought in her husband, Khristian, who purchased their brick-and-mortar gas station location in 2021, taking over the already existing Ellis Creamery. They also hired Khristian’s cousin, Carl Ongwico, to serve as the business’s in-house “ice cream expert.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Together, the family is bringing some of the hottest (and coldest) treats from the Philippine islands to Northern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We went back to food we knew in the Philippines,” Khristian says. “We tried to copy the way we remember eating in the Philippines. It gave us something to focus on during the pandemic, besides our day jobs.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919720\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13919720\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a Filipino cookie, known as a silvana, is sliced open to reveal layers of meringue and butter cream\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Filipino silvana is sliced open to reveal layers of meringue and butter cream. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Khristian first immigrated to San Jose from Lucena, a territory in the Quezon province located south of Manila. He arrived in Silicon Valley in 2007 with a work visa as part of the tech industry’s massive influx of talent from around the globe. Initially, he worked as a consultant trainer with companies like PG&E, Cypress and Infineon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In California, he met Marie—also from Lucena—and the couple returned to their hometown to marry in 2009. When they moved back to San Jose, they realized the cost of living was steeper than they could afford, and with their first child on the way, they made the decision to move an hour east to the commuter city of Tracy in 2014. It’s a migratory trend that still continues today, nearly a decade later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“[Tracy] is diverse. I’d guess there’s as many Latinos and Asians here as in the Bay,” Khristian says. “People are still moving in. We are one of the oldest, first residents in our area. Everyone on our street is new, all people who moved from the Bay. And most of them commute for work to the Bay.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a pattern that has created a cultural tapestry in Tracy where a small, family-owned operation like Ellis Creamery can thrive—despite being hidden inside an otherwise unremarkable gas station along a strip-mall lined road.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The convenience store at this particular National Petroleum location looks just like the ones you can find at any local gas station. Except, all the way in the back corner, there’s a full-blown bakery and ice cream counter where you can fill up on another kind of fuel: sugar. It’s an unexpected but deliciously welcome surprise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ellis Creamery isn’t where you go to get a scoop of vanilla or chocolate chip ice cream, though they serve that, too. Instead, it’s where you go when you’re in need of tropically-tinted, Pacific-inspired flavors. You might opt for a refreshing scoop of “Kalamansi sherbet”—an “Asian lime” flavor, as Khristian describes it, with enough tang, zip and acid to balance the sugary goodness you’re sure to consume during your visit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Khristian notes how certain flavors like pistachio are popular, particularly among South Asian customers, he says. Other customers may be seeking specialty flavors, like “Ube Cookies and Cream”—a sundae-like original invention which includes a scoop of ube ice cream piled on top of homemade, Oreo-laced cookies and cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919722\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13919722\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"the owner of Ellis Creamery holds up a clear cup of purple ube ice cream with an extra scoop of cookies-and-cream\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-1920x2880.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ube Cookies and Cream is one of Ellis Creamery’s original flavor mixes. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Nothing goes to waste in the Philippines,” Khristian tells me during my visit. “We like to mix things together. By adding something familiar like Oreos or bananas to ube, it not only becomes familiar to more people, but it keeps us from wasting any of our products.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The concept of recycling what’s left over to enhance existing flavors is fully apparent in their version of halo-halo (Tagalog for “mixed”), the unofficial national dessert of the Philippines. The treat includes the usual shaved ice, ube ice cream, sweet kidney beans, coconut jelly and condensed milk—but, at Ellis Creamery, it also comes topped with crushed meringue, an ingredient that’s used in their other products: Filipino cakes and cookies such as Sans Rivals and Silvanas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Having the bakery is a business strategy,” Marie explains. “Ice cream is a seasonal business. We have to be strategic about how we sell during winter. If you look at most Filipino bakeries or ice cream shops, you might get some cookies and brownies, or ice cream. But here we offer more, we offer it all. And we’re using brands and flavors that we used to eat in the Philippines for authenticity.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marie heads the full-fledged baking side of the operation, coming up with recipes in the little bit of free time she has when she isn’t working her full-time role in nursing. Some of her favorites include the Sans Rival (a meringue cake with butter cream filling and crushed nuts such as pistachios covering the outer layer) and ensaymada (a Filipino-style sweet bread that begins as a butter bun brioche roll and ends as a decoratively covered dessert featuring some combination of ube buttercream, parmesan cheese, green tea frosting or dulce de leche).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bakery does custom orders for large private events, and is known for its creative mix of cakes, savory items like pandesal and, starting this fall, meat-filled empanadas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, personally, I wanted to fulfill a family dream,” Khristian says. “Marie’s dream was always to own a shop—a pastry shop, to be known as a good baker. My goal was to fulfill that dream. We’re fortunate to have a knack for food and to be able to serve others our passion.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13898436,arts_13915581,arts_13901303']\u003c/span>During my time in the kitchen, I was introduced to more Filipino flavors and traditions than I’ve ever known. It felt like I was running a food marathon around the Pacific islands—with Khristian leading the way. Salty breads, crunchy rolls, savory fillings, sweet bites, cold spoonfuls. But it may have been the Silvanas that most left their mark on my taste buds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cake-like cookies are layered and crispy—covered in smashed nuts on the exterior—yet fluffy and chewy inside, creating a heavenly balance of hard and soft, easy and resistant, sweet and salty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also not lacking in size or flavor are the ensaymadas—a veritable overload of Filipino indulgence packed into a cupcake-sized goodie. The sheer amount of customizable ingredients and toppings alone are worth the drive to this hard-to-spot business. But I assure you, it’s there. And once you’ve gone, you’ll wish every gas station had an Ellis Creamery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For many Bay Area residents, it’s hard to find the time (and gas funds, ironically) to make the drive over to a gas station in Tracy. Unfortunately, a business like Ellis Creamery doesn’t receive the same amount of attention or support as their hustle merits. The lack of foot traffic is a major hindrance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Ellis Creamery is ready to enter its second year of operation, and with that, they are ready to grow. In the meantime, the business is hitting up markets and events all over the Bay, from Daly City to Vallejo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919724\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13919724\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"three Ellis Creamery workers display a tray of six ensaymadas, which are Filipino sweet rolls that resemble cupcakes\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Khristian Rabut (left), stands with his employees, Roxanne Simon (center) and Carl Ongwico (right) after making a fresh batch of ensaymadas together. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“In Tracy, we’re like a hidden secret,” Khristian says. “Most of our customers here are Asian. But when we do events in the Bay Area, we sell out fast, and many of our customers are diverse. For some of them, it’s their first time trying ube and we also get to introduce them to Filipino pastries.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though it isn’t yet official, they are currently in the process of filing the paperwork for a potential location in downtown San Jose. If all goes as planned, the new venue would be central to a large base of new clientele, particularly students at San Jose State University. It would give Ellis Creamery a foothold in Silicon Valley—the place where it all started for this Filipino couple with a sweet tooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ellis.creamery/\">Ellis Creamery\u003c/a> is located inside the National gas station at \u003cspan class=\"LrzXr\">2420 W. Grant Line Rd., Tracy. It is open Tuesday–Saturday from 9am to 7 pm, and Sunday from noon to 5pm.\u003c/span>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Upcoming pop-up events include a\u003cem> \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reel/Ci1PJBWAJSR/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y%3D\">Filipino American History event\u003c/a> (Pamanas Plantas, 1615B Solano Ave., Berkeley) on Oct. 8 and \u003c/em>\u003cem>the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kpsfopen.org/\">Kunal Patel San Francisco Open\u003c/a> (Goldman Tennis Center, \u003cspan class=\"LrzXr\">50 Bowling Green Dr., San Francisco\u003c/span>) Oct. 15–16.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"headline": "This Filipino Gas Station Dessert Shop Is Among NorCal’s Most Delicious Secrets",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">Y\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>ou would never guess it, but there’s something transcendent about an otherwise bland National gas station on W. Grant Line Rd. in Tracy. On first appearance, it seems like any ordinary stop point in U.S. suburbia: People pull up in a hurry, fill up on petro, then hop back into their whips and speed off onto a multi-lane road on their way to whatever American Dream they are chasing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But between a Black Bear Diner and RV Center, right along Interstate 205, hides a clandestine gem exploding with Pinoy favorites. Here, at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ellis.creamery/\">Ellis Creamery\u003c/a>, Khristian Rabut experiments with distinctly Filipino ingredients to perfect his ice cream recipes while his wife Marie provides a full lineup of Filipino baked goods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The concept originally began in 2020, when Marie—who works full-time in healthcare—started a home-based business called Marie’s Kitchen as a way to explore her passion for baking. At the time, she wanted to supplement her income and provide a creative outlet. After gaining local recognition, she expanded her business and brought in her husband, Khristian, who purchased their brick-and-mortar gas station location in 2021, taking over the already existing Ellis Creamery. They also hired Khristian’s cousin, Carl Ongwico, to serve as the business’s in-house “ice cream expert.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Together, the family is bringing some of the hottest (and coldest) treats from the Philippine islands to Northern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We went back to food we knew in the Philippines,” Khristian says. “We tried to copy the way we remember eating in the Philippines. It gave us something to focus on during the pandemic, besides our day jobs.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919720\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13919720\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a Filipino cookie, known as a silvana, is sliced open to reveal layers of meringue and butter cream\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Filipino silvana is sliced open to reveal layers of meringue and butter cream. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Khristian first immigrated to San Jose from Lucena, a territory in the Quezon province located south of Manila. He arrived in Silicon Valley in 2007 with a work visa as part of the tech industry’s massive influx of talent from around the globe. Initially, he worked as a consultant trainer with companies like PG&E, Cypress and Infineon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In California, he met Marie—also from Lucena—and the couple returned to their hometown to marry in 2009. When they moved back to San Jose, they realized the cost of living was steeper than they could afford, and with their first child on the way, they made the decision to move an hour east to the commuter city of Tracy in 2014. It’s a migratory trend that still continues today, nearly a decade later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“[Tracy] is diverse. I’d guess there’s as many Latinos and Asians here as in the Bay,” Khristian says. “People are still moving in. We are one of the oldest, first residents in our area. Everyone on our street is new, all people who moved from the Bay. And most of them commute for work to the Bay.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a pattern that has created a cultural tapestry in Tracy where a small, family-owned operation like Ellis Creamery can thrive—despite being hidden inside an otherwise unremarkable gas station along a strip-mall lined road.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The convenience store at this particular National Petroleum location looks just like the ones you can find at any local gas station. Except, all the way in the back corner, there’s a full-blown bakery and ice cream counter where you can fill up on another kind of fuel: sugar. It’s an unexpected but deliciously welcome surprise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ellis Creamery isn’t where you go to get a scoop of vanilla or chocolate chip ice cream, though they serve that, too. Instead, it’s where you go when you’re in need of tropically-tinted, Pacific-inspired flavors. You might opt for a refreshing scoop of “Kalamansi sherbet”—an “Asian lime” flavor, as Khristian describes it, with enough tang, zip and acid to balance the sugary goodness you’re sure to consume during your visit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Khristian notes how certain flavors like pistachio are popular, particularly among South Asian customers, he says. Other customers may be seeking specialty flavors, like “Ube Cookies and Cream”—a sundae-like original invention which includes a scoop of ube ice cream piled on top of homemade, Oreo-laced cookies and cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919722\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13919722\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"the owner of Ellis Creamery holds up a clear cup of purple ube ice cream with an extra scoop of cookies-and-cream\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-1920x2880.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ube Cookies and Cream is one of Ellis Creamery’s original flavor mixes. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Nothing goes to waste in the Philippines,” Khristian tells me during my visit. “We like to mix things together. By adding something familiar like Oreos or bananas to ube, it not only becomes familiar to more people, but it keeps us from wasting any of our products.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The concept of recycling what’s left over to enhance existing flavors is fully apparent in their version of halo-halo (Tagalog for “mixed”), the unofficial national dessert of the Philippines. The treat includes the usual shaved ice, ube ice cream, sweet kidney beans, coconut jelly and condensed milk—but, at Ellis Creamery, it also comes topped with crushed meringue, an ingredient that’s used in their other products: Filipino cakes and cookies such as Sans Rivals and Silvanas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Having the bakery is a business strategy,” Marie explains. “Ice cream is a seasonal business. We have to be strategic about how we sell during winter. If you look at most Filipino bakeries or ice cream shops, you might get some cookies and brownies, or ice cream. But here we offer more, we offer it all. And we’re using brands and flavors that we used to eat in the Philippines for authenticity.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marie heads the full-fledged baking side of the operation, coming up with recipes in the little bit of free time she has when she isn’t working her full-time role in nursing. Some of her favorites include the Sans Rival (a meringue cake with butter cream filling and crushed nuts such as pistachios covering the outer layer) and ensaymada (a Filipino-style sweet bread that begins as a butter bun brioche roll and ends as a decoratively covered dessert featuring some combination of ube buttercream, parmesan cheese, green tea frosting or dulce de leche).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bakery does custom orders for large private events, and is known for its creative mix of cakes, savory items like pandesal and, starting this fall, meat-filled empanadas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, personally, I wanted to fulfill a family dream,” Khristian says. “Marie’s dream was always to own a shop—a pastry shop, to be known as a good baker. My goal was to fulfill that dream. We’re fortunate to have a knack for food and to be able to serve others our passion.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>During my time in the kitchen, I was introduced to more Filipino flavors and traditions than I’ve ever known. It felt like I was running a food marathon around the Pacific islands—with Khristian leading the way. Salty breads, crunchy rolls, savory fillings, sweet bites, cold spoonfuls. But it may have been the Silvanas that most left their mark on my taste buds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cake-like cookies are layered and crispy—covered in smashed nuts on the exterior—yet fluffy and chewy inside, creating a heavenly balance of hard and soft, easy and resistant, sweet and salty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also not lacking in size or flavor are the ensaymadas—a veritable overload of Filipino indulgence packed into a cupcake-sized goodie. The sheer amount of customizable ingredients and toppings alone are worth the drive to this hard-to-spot business. But I assure you, it’s there. And once you’ve gone, you’ll wish every gas station had an Ellis Creamery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For many Bay Area residents, it’s hard to find the time (and gas funds, ironically) to make the drive over to a gas station in Tracy. Unfortunately, a business like Ellis Creamery doesn’t receive the same amount of attention or support as their hustle merits. The lack of foot traffic is a major hindrance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Ellis Creamery is ready to enter its second year of operation, and with that, they are ready to grow. In the meantime, the business is hitting up markets and events all over the Bay, from Daly City to Vallejo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919724\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13919724\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"three Ellis Creamery workers display a tray of six ensaymadas, which are Filipino sweet rolls that resemble cupcakes\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Khristian Rabut (left), stands with his employees, Roxanne Simon (center) and Carl Ongwico (right) after making a fresh batch of ensaymadas together. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“In Tracy, we’re like a hidden secret,” Khristian says. “Most of our customers here are Asian. But when we do events in the Bay Area, we sell out fast, and many of our customers are diverse. For some of them, it’s their first time trying ube and we also get to introduce them to Filipino pastries.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though it isn’t yet official, they are currently in the process of filing the paperwork for a potential location in downtown San Jose. If all goes as planned, the new venue would be central to a large base of new clientele, particularly students at San Jose State University. It would give Ellis Creamery a foothold in Silicon Valley—the place where it all started for this Filipino couple with a sweet tooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ellis.creamery/\">Ellis Creamery\u003c/a> is located inside the National gas station at \u003cspan class=\"LrzXr\">2420 W. Grant Line Rd., Tracy. It is open Tuesday–Saturday from 9am to 7 pm, and Sunday from noon to 5pm.\u003c/span>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Upcoming pop-up events include a\u003cem> \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reel/Ci1PJBWAJSR/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y%3D\">Filipino American History event\u003c/a> (Pamanas Plantas, 1615B Solano Ave., Berkeley) on Oct. 8 and \u003c/em>\u003cem>the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kpsfopen.org/\">Kunal Patel San Francisco Open\u003c/a> (Goldman Tennis Center, \u003cspan class=\"LrzXr\">50 Bowling Green Dr., San Francisco\u003c/span>) Oct. 15–16.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "On Being ‘Diasporican’: A New Puerto Rican Cookbook Experiments Without Apology",
"headTitle": "On Being ‘Diasporican’: A New Puerto Rican Cookbook Experiments Without Apology | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Illyanna Maisonet’s bona fides speak for themselves. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Her\u003c/span> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/eatgordaeat/status/1129974952881377280\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">award-winning\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> column about traditional Puerto Rican foodways in the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Francisco Chronicle \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">made Maisonet the first Puerto Rican food columnist in the United States. She is as fierce an advocate for the city of Sacramento as you will ever find—particularly when it comes to the immigrant and working-class food businesses that populate \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/4/14/21216944/south-sacramento-neighborhood-restaurants-coronavirus\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">her neighborhood in South Sacramento\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And when the glossy food magazine \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bon Appetit \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">had its racial reckoning moment of 2020, those who know Maisonet were not surprised that she was the one who kicked the whole thing off. Her series of tweets about the rationale the magazine offered for rejecting one of her pitches—and about the publication’s glaring lack of Puerto Rican food stories overall—ignited such a \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">high-profile discussion of tokenism and racism in food media that the company eventually underwent a massive reshuffling of its leadership and staff. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">She’s never been shy about speaking truth to power.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">She also happens to be a beautiful writer. Maisonet’s full powers are on display in her forthcoming debut cookbook, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/671586/diasporican-by-illyanna-maisonet-foreword-by-michael-w-twitty-photographs-by-dan-liberti-and--erika-p-rodriguez/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diasporican: A Puerto Rican Cookbook\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “Culantro,” she writes, describing an herb central to Puerto Rican cooking, “is like cilantro’s cousin who comes to visit from the hood. Yeah, they’re family. But it’s also way more ‘punchy,’ ‘vocal,’ ‘spirited’—all those politically correct euphemisms—and possibly wearing FUBU.” About the salted codfish fritters known as bacalaitos, Maisonet writes, “The center was toothsome like our gente’s—our people’s—resistance, salty from the tears we’ve shed, but the edges were delicate and vulnerable, like when we reveal our underbellies.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As its title indicates, \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diasporican\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> isn’t meant to be some all-purpose handbook on Puerto Rican cooking. Instead, it’s specifically a book that documents Maisonet’s experience as a Puerto Rican living in the diaspora here in Northern California—and the way the mix of cultures here has informed her cooking. It’s a book that deals with grief and childhood trauma and the long-reaching effects of American colonialism. It’ll also make you want to drop everything and immediately cook up a pot of arroz con gandules or carne guisada, or a sizzling hot plate of tostones.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In advance of the book’s Oct. 18 release date, KQED chatted with Maisonet about nostalgia, the Bay Area’s (somewhat sparse) Puerto Rican food scene and why it took her six years to find a publisher for her book.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The following interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919206\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13919206\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead shot of thin, crispy tostones against a green backdrop, with two dipping sauces on the side.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2395\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-800x998.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-1020x1272.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-768x958.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-1231x1536.jpg 1231w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-1642x2048.jpg 1642w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maisonet’s recipe for tostones includes options for two different dipping sauces. \u003ccite>(Photo by Dan Liberti, courtesy of Ten Speed Press)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Despite the success of your \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/A-pilgrimage-to-the-keeper-of-Puerto-Rico-s-13619913.php\">\u003cb>\u003ci>Chronicle \u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb>column\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>, you (very publicly) had a difficult time finding a publisher for this cookbook. I remember seeing you \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/eatgordaeat/status/1153405911332818949\">\u003cb>tweet about the multiple rejections you received\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>. At one point the celebrated chef-humanitarian José Andrés even \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/eatgordaeat/status/1153442797258547200?lang=en\">\u003cb>took up your cause\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>—still to no avail. Why was the idea of a Puerto Rican cookbook such a hard sell, and how were you able to overcome that challenge?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I can only make assumptions based on my experiences. So when you see “101 Ways to Keto/Paleo/Instant Pot Vegan Beans” for the hundredth fucking time, and there are maybe 10 mass-published Puerto Rican cookbooks from the history of ever, you can only assume that the only difference between you and them is skin color. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s the only thing I can see. Because what everyone said—between the agents that rejected me and the editors that rejected me and the publishers that rejected me—they all had the same thing [to say], which was that there is no market for the book. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I personally think that they are underestimating their audience. In a way, they think consumers are stupid. Clearly we have totally evolved in the ways of global food to the point that Chinese food is not just this amalgamation of what Chinese immigrants \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">think\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Americans want. Now, Chinese food is based on region, and people are requesting it by region. It’s the same thing for Mexican food. And the same thing can be done for other Latino foods. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">They say, “There’s no market,” but technically there wasn’t a market for any of this shit to begin with.\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">By the time I finally got my book published, that proposal had been schlepped around for six years. Almost everybody in the industry had seen it.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Illyanna Maisonet\"]“I literally got my offer the month that George Floyd got murdered. If that wouldn’t have happened, I can guarantee I wouldn’t be in the position that I am right now.”[/pullquote]I’m the kind of person who slips in through the cracks during a transition. So I was ready when 2020 hit and brands and publishers and everybody else were scrambling to do the performative activism and find content creators and artists of color. I was already ready.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I literally got my offer the month that George Floyd got murdered. If that wouldn’t have happened, I can guarantee I wouldn’t be in the position that I am right now.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CMFJ-bC76w\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>A lot of what’s great about \u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci>Diasporican \u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb>is how fresh and bold the writing voice is. Given how challenging it was for you to get your book deal to begin with, did you also have to really fight to keep that voice intact?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I know [my writing] is not for everyone because a woman already gave me two stars on \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.netgalley.com/book/249548/reviews\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">NetGalley\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for cursing. [laughs]\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But because I worked with [since-departed Ten Speed Press editor-in-chief] Lorena [Jones], I did not have to fight to have my voice heard. Remember, this was 2020. This was \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2020/06/09/872697289/chief-editor-at-bon-app-tit-resigns-after-racially-offensive-photo-surfaces\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">post-\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bon Appetit\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, post dragging everyone on Twitter with screenshots\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Lorena already knew what she was getting into. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I feel like some people [in the publishing industry] are prepared to take the risk because they know that money can be made. But mostly, the people that we have to deal with are the middle man, like the acquisitions editors. They’re not hired to have that kind of risk assessment or vision. They’re just there to do what’s comfortable.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I didn’t have to go through a middle man. Lorena \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">was \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the man.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Your book is chock full of delightful recipes, but it also deals with a lot of heavy subject matter—violence, grief, trauma. You write in the intro, “How I became a cook is not a romantic story…There would be no passing down of heirloom cookbooks (I don’t think my grandma ever owned a cookbook), words of encouragement, or time to enjoy a childhood.” While your cookbook \u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci>is\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb> nostalgic in certain ways, it also seems to be fighting against the sentimentality that pervades a lot of food writing, especially the kind trafficking in recipes passed down by grandmothers. Can you talk about the balance you wanted to strike?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I am a nostalgic person, but sometimes nostalgia can be very dangerous, like we’re living in the past or creating a more romanticized version of the past. I am and am not a romantic. I’m not in terms of American consumerism—chocolate and roses for Valentine’s Day. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But I am a romantic in the sense that I can see the beauty in a lot of shit that people pass every day. The reason I was able to come to the middle in the book is because so much time had already passed. (Also therapy. That shit really works!) I was able to dissect [my childhood], heal, and kind of see why my mom and grandma were the way that they were.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My grandma died in 2015; I started writing the book then. It’s kind of like my grief journey.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919214\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13919214\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of stewed beef over white rice, served on a green plate.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2400\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-1229x1536.jpg 1229w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-1638x2048.jpg 1638w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The cookbook is full of homey, satisfying recipes like Maisonet’s version of carne guisada, which she makes with beef chuck roast. \u003ccite>(Photo by Dan Liberti, courtesy of Ten Speed Press)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What is the biggest misperception that people have about Puerto Rican food?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I feel like almost everyone I’ve spoken to thinks that Puerto Rican is spicy. But why would it be? We do have some condiments that make things spicy, but the food itself isn’t spicy. People are always surprised about that when they dig in. They’re expecting spice, and what they get is flavor. Those are the two things I always hear: “Oh, it’s not spicy” and “Oh, it’s so flavorful.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Most people’s preconceptions are that French food is the top tier, be-all end-all. But there are other cultures that share the same [characteristics] when it comes to flavor complexities. In the Caribbean—and a lot of South America and Mexico—there’s a baseline of simple foods that are built with layers of flavor. That’s why a lot of my recipes can’t be whipped up quick.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You write that \u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci>Diasporican\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb> isn’t strictly a Puerto Rican cookbook. Instead, you write lovingly about your neighborhood in Sacramento and about all of the ways that the ingredients and the different food cultures in California have influenced your cooking. Can you explain what you mean by “diasporican” and talk about a recipe that reflects that approach?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13900311,arts_13906189,arts_13895601']I didn’t want the “Purity Ricans,” which is what I call them, to go in with the misconception that the book was only going to be purely traditional Puerto Rican recipes, the way their grandmother used to make it. (And by the way, a lot of their grandmothers are terrible cooks.) That’s the disclaimer: I already warned you. This book gave me the permission to accept that I’m not one of them Puerto Ricans. I was trying my damnedest to prove that I was. I’m not and that’s OK. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It allowed me to do more experimenting without apologizing because it’s \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">my \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">experience as a Puerto Rican growing up in California in the Central Valley, where there were a ton of Mien, Hmong, Lao and Cambodian people, especially when I was growing up in the ’80s and ’90s. They were coming to the West out of the post-war trauma that they were going through.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Saying I’m a “diasporic” and from California allows me to do things like my \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CBdnHPnhUe7/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Puerto Rican laab\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. That recipe was just me putting things together in my brain—the Lao family that I was living with [as a teenager] making papaya salad and laab, and noticing that a lot of the ingredients are really similar. Even though [Puerto Ricans] don’t use fish sauce or padaek, we do use a fresh herb base. That’s sofrito. I always add some at the end [of the cooking process] because it’s that wallop of flavor that I’m looking for. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In Lao food, they use a mortar and pestle; we use a pilon. They mash the garlic; we mash the garlic. They put in the shallots, we put in the onions. Then goes in the basil and the lemongrass and the tomatoes. I was like, \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Goddamn, that looks so similar to Puerto Rican food. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I wondered if I could merge the two. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So that laab dish is just another application of sofrito.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CBdnHPnhUe7/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You have always been a \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c33UqJh-L_g\">big advocate for Puerto Rican food businesses\u003c/a> in Northern California. What are your strongest recommendations?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In San Francisco, the best place to go is \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/parada22sf/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Parada 22\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, but not everything is good. You’ve got to get the sampler. It comes with yucca, tostones, maduros, the pernil and fried chicken. It’s \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">hella\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> good—that’s the only thing I get there.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you’re looking for vegan options, you can really only go to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/casaborinquena/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Casa Borinqueña\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> because \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/9/25/21456267/casa-borinquena-vegan-puerto-rican-mofongo-oakland\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">everybody else cooks with some kind of animal product\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you’re in the East Bay, your only option, in my opinion, is to go to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/laperlapuertoricancuisine/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Perla\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. They have really good bacalaitos, which is codfish fritters. And if you go on the weekend, they have amazing pernil, which is the roasted pork shoulder. They make it the good way where they get the skin nice and thin and crispy, which is super hard to do.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/671586/diasporican-by-illyanna-maisonet-foreword-by-michael-w-twitty-photographs-by-dan-liberti-and--erika-p-rodriguez/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diasporican\u003c/span>\u003c/a> \u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">is out on Oct. 18 from Ten Speed Press. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Illyanna Maisonet’s bona fides speak for themselves. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Her\u003c/span> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/eatgordaeat/status/1129974952881377280\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">award-winning\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> column about traditional Puerto Rican foodways in the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Francisco Chronicle \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">made Maisonet the first Puerto Rican food columnist in the United States. She is as fierce an advocate for the city of Sacramento as you will ever find—particularly when it comes to the immigrant and working-class food businesses that populate \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/4/14/21216944/south-sacramento-neighborhood-restaurants-coronavirus\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">her neighborhood in South Sacramento\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And when the glossy food magazine \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bon Appetit \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">had its racial reckoning moment of 2020, those who know Maisonet were not surprised that she was the one who kicked the whole thing off. Her series of tweets about the rationale the magazine offered for rejecting one of her pitches—and about the publication’s glaring lack of Puerto Rican food stories overall—ignited such a \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">high-profile discussion of tokenism and racism in food media that the company eventually underwent a massive reshuffling of its leadership and staff. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">She’s never been shy about speaking truth to power.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">She also happens to be a beautiful writer. Maisonet’s full powers are on display in her forthcoming debut cookbook, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/671586/diasporican-by-illyanna-maisonet-foreword-by-michael-w-twitty-photographs-by-dan-liberti-and--erika-p-rodriguez/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diasporican: A Puerto Rican Cookbook\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “Culantro,” she writes, describing an herb central to Puerto Rican cooking, “is like cilantro’s cousin who comes to visit from the hood. Yeah, they’re family. But it’s also way more ‘punchy,’ ‘vocal,’ ‘spirited’—all those politically correct euphemisms—and possibly wearing FUBU.” About the salted codfish fritters known as bacalaitos, Maisonet writes, “The center was toothsome like our gente’s—our people’s—resistance, salty from the tears we’ve shed, but the edges were delicate and vulnerable, like when we reveal our underbellies.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As its title indicates, \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diasporican\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> isn’t meant to be some all-purpose handbook on Puerto Rican cooking. Instead, it’s specifically a book that documents Maisonet’s experience as a Puerto Rican living in the diaspora here in Northern California—and the way the mix of cultures here has informed her cooking. It’s a book that deals with grief and childhood trauma and the long-reaching effects of American colonialism. It’ll also make you want to drop everything and immediately cook up a pot of arroz con gandules or carne guisada, or a sizzling hot plate of tostones.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In advance of the book’s Oct. 18 release date, KQED chatted with Maisonet about nostalgia, the Bay Area’s (somewhat sparse) Puerto Rican food scene and why it took her six years to find a publisher for her book.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The following interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919206\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13919206\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead shot of thin, crispy tostones against a green backdrop, with two dipping sauces on the side.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2395\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-800x998.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-1020x1272.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-768x958.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-1231x1536.jpg 1231w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-1642x2048.jpg 1642w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maisonet’s recipe for tostones includes options for two different dipping sauces. \u003ccite>(Photo by Dan Liberti, courtesy of Ten Speed Press)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Despite the success of your \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/A-pilgrimage-to-the-keeper-of-Puerto-Rico-s-13619913.php\">\u003cb>\u003ci>Chronicle \u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb>column\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>, you (very publicly) had a difficult time finding a publisher for this cookbook. I remember seeing you \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/eatgordaeat/status/1153405911332818949\">\u003cb>tweet about the multiple rejections you received\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>. At one point the celebrated chef-humanitarian José Andrés even \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/eatgordaeat/status/1153442797258547200?lang=en\">\u003cb>took up your cause\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>—still to no avail. Why was the idea of a Puerto Rican cookbook such a hard sell, and how were you able to overcome that challenge?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I can only make assumptions based on my experiences. So when you see “101 Ways to Keto/Paleo/Instant Pot Vegan Beans” for the hundredth fucking time, and there are maybe 10 mass-published Puerto Rican cookbooks from the history of ever, you can only assume that the only difference between you and them is skin color. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s the only thing I can see. Because what everyone said—between the agents that rejected me and the editors that rejected me and the publishers that rejected me—they all had the same thing [to say], which was that there is no market for the book. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I personally think that they are underestimating their audience. In a way, they think consumers are stupid. Clearly we have totally evolved in the ways of global food to the point that Chinese food is not just this amalgamation of what Chinese immigrants \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">think\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Americans want. Now, Chinese food is based on region, and people are requesting it by region. It’s the same thing for Mexican food. And the same thing can be done for other Latino foods. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">They say, “There’s no market,” but technically there wasn’t a market for any of this shit to begin with.\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">By the time I finally got my book published, that proposal had been schlepped around for six years. Almost everybody in the industry had seen it.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "“I literally got my offer the month that George Floyd got murdered. If that wouldn’t have happened, I can guarantee I wouldn’t be in the position that I am right now.”",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>I’m the kind of person who slips in through the cracks during a transition. So I was ready when 2020 hit and brands and publishers and everybody else were scrambling to do the performative activism and find content creators and artists of color. I was already ready.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I literally got my offer the month that George Floyd got murdered. If that wouldn’t have happened, I can guarantee I wouldn’t be in the position that I am right now.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/0CMFJ-bC76w'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/0CMFJ-bC76w'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>A lot of what’s great about \u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci>Diasporican \u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb>is how fresh and bold the writing voice is. Given how challenging it was for you to get your book deal to begin with, did you also have to really fight to keep that voice intact?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I know [my writing] is not for everyone because a woman already gave me two stars on \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.netgalley.com/book/249548/reviews\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">NetGalley\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for cursing. [laughs]\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But because I worked with [since-departed Ten Speed Press editor-in-chief] Lorena [Jones], I did not have to fight to have my voice heard. Remember, this was 2020. This was \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2020/06/09/872697289/chief-editor-at-bon-app-tit-resigns-after-racially-offensive-photo-surfaces\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">post-\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bon Appetit\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, post dragging everyone on Twitter with screenshots\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Lorena already knew what she was getting into. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I feel like some people [in the publishing industry] are prepared to take the risk because they know that money can be made. But mostly, the people that we have to deal with are the middle man, like the acquisitions editors. They’re not hired to have that kind of risk assessment or vision. They’re just there to do what’s comfortable.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I didn’t have to go through a middle man. Lorena \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">was \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the man.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Your book is chock full of delightful recipes, but it also deals with a lot of heavy subject matter—violence, grief, trauma. You write in the intro, “How I became a cook is not a romantic story…There would be no passing down of heirloom cookbooks (I don’t think my grandma ever owned a cookbook), words of encouragement, or time to enjoy a childhood.” While your cookbook \u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci>is\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb> nostalgic in certain ways, it also seems to be fighting against the sentimentality that pervades a lot of food writing, especially the kind trafficking in recipes passed down by grandmothers. Can you talk about the balance you wanted to strike?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I am a nostalgic person, but sometimes nostalgia can be very dangerous, like we’re living in the past or creating a more romanticized version of the past. I am and am not a romantic. I’m not in terms of American consumerism—chocolate and roses for Valentine’s Day. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But I am a romantic in the sense that I can see the beauty in a lot of shit that people pass every day. The reason I was able to come to the middle in the book is because so much time had already passed. (Also therapy. That shit really works!) I was able to dissect [my childhood], heal, and kind of see why my mom and grandma were the way that they were.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My grandma died in 2015; I started writing the book then. It’s kind of like my grief journey.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919214\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13919214\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of stewed beef over white rice, served on a green plate.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2400\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-1229x1536.jpg 1229w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-1638x2048.jpg 1638w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The cookbook is full of homey, satisfying recipes like Maisonet’s version of carne guisada, which she makes with beef chuck roast. \u003ccite>(Photo by Dan Liberti, courtesy of Ten Speed Press)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What is the biggest misperception that people have about Puerto Rican food?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I feel like almost everyone I’ve spoken to thinks that Puerto Rican is spicy. But why would it be? We do have some condiments that make things spicy, but the food itself isn’t spicy. People are always surprised about that when they dig in. They’re expecting spice, and what they get is flavor. Those are the two things I always hear: “Oh, it’s not spicy” and “Oh, it’s so flavorful.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Most people’s preconceptions are that French food is the top tier, be-all end-all. But there are other cultures that share the same [characteristics] when it comes to flavor complexities. In the Caribbean—and a lot of South America and Mexico—there’s a baseline of simple foods that are built with layers of flavor. That’s why a lot of my recipes can’t be whipped up quick.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You write that \u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci>Diasporican\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb> isn’t strictly a Puerto Rican cookbook. Instead, you write lovingly about your neighborhood in Sacramento and about all of the ways that the ingredients and the different food cultures in California have influenced your cooking. Can you explain what you mean by “diasporican” and talk about a recipe that reflects that approach?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>I didn’t want the “Purity Ricans,” which is what I call them, to go in with the misconception that the book was only going to be purely traditional Puerto Rican recipes, the way their grandmother used to make it. (And by the way, a lot of their grandmothers are terrible cooks.) That’s the disclaimer: I already warned you. This book gave me the permission to accept that I’m not one of them Puerto Ricans. I was trying my damnedest to prove that I was. I’m not and that’s OK. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It allowed me to do more experimenting without apologizing because it’s \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">my \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">experience as a Puerto Rican growing up in California in the Central Valley, where there were a ton of Mien, Hmong, Lao and Cambodian people, especially when I was growing up in the ’80s and ’90s. They were coming to the West out of the post-war trauma that they were going through.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Saying I’m a “diasporic” and from California allows me to do things like my \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CBdnHPnhUe7/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Puerto Rican laab\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. That recipe was just me putting things together in my brain—the Lao family that I was living with [as a teenager] making papaya salad and laab, and noticing that a lot of the ingredients are really similar. Even though [Puerto Ricans] don’t use fish sauce or padaek, we do use a fresh herb base. That’s sofrito. I always add some at the end [of the cooking process] because it’s that wallop of flavor that I’m looking for. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In Lao food, they use a mortar and pestle; we use a pilon. They mash the garlic; we mash the garlic. They put in the shallots, we put in the onions. Then goes in the basil and the lemongrass and the tomatoes. I was like, \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Goddamn, that looks so similar to Puerto Rican food. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I wondered if I could merge the two. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So that laab dish is just another application of sofrito.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>You have always been a \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c33UqJh-L_g\">big advocate for Puerto Rican food businesses\u003c/a> in Northern California. What are your strongest recommendations?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In San Francisco, the best place to go is \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/parada22sf/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Parada 22\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, but not everything is good. You’ve got to get the sampler. It comes with yucca, tostones, maduros, the pernil and fried chicken. It’s \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">hella\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> good—that’s the only thing I get there.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you’re looking for vegan options, you can really only go to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/casaborinquena/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Casa Borinqueña\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> because \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/9/25/21456267/casa-borinquena-vegan-puerto-rican-mofongo-oakland\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">everybody else cooks with some kind of animal product\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you’re in the East Bay, your only option, in my opinion, is to go to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/laperlapuertoricancuisine/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Perla\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. They have really good bacalaitos, which is codfish fritters. And if you go on the weekend, they have amazing pernil, which is the roasted pork shoulder. They make it the good way where they get the skin nice and thin and crispy, which is super hard to do.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/671586/diasporican-by-illyanna-maisonet-foreword-by-michael-w-twitty-photographs-by-dan-liberti-and--erika-p-rodriguez/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diasporican\u003c/span>\u003c/a> \u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">is out on Oct. 18 from Ten Speed Press. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "One-of-a-Kind Release Party Combines Turf Dancing, Roller Skating and Beer",
"headTitle": "One-of-a-Kind Release Party Combines Turf Dancing, Roller Skating and Beer | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/icecold3000/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gary “Ice Cold 3000” Morgan\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—a member of Oakland’s globally recognized \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theturffeinz/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">dance crew, TurfFeinz\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—was growing up, he would attend the Boys and Girls Club on 85th and E.14th in East Oakland. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There, he met Stick, an OG community mentor who looked out for Morgan and his friends, encouraging the young men to use the basketball gym and dance room despite not being members. For years, Morgan jokingly told Stick that he would one day donate money to the Club so that other young Oaklanders could benefit from it, too. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Over a decade later, Morgan is keeping his word by hosting a one-of-a-kind event: \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://drinkbaybeer.com/profiles/aleindustries/ale-industries-turf-skate-brewski\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Turf Skate Brewski\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Not only will the evening feature a special-edition beer release from \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.aleindustries.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ale Industries\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, but the TurfFeinz are also throwing \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0kaLabJOv8\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a turf battle\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> featuring dancers and roller skaters. Each turf dancer will pair up with a skater in a team-elimination style dance-off—something Morgan says has never been done. It’s a function that Morgan and his crew hope will merge Bay Area communities that don’t often overlap: turfers, roller skaters and beer drinkers.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/ChqIdIJgzIK/?hl=en\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A portion of the proceeds from the beer sales will go to the East Oakland chapter of the Boys and Girls Club, which Morgan says is in honor of Stick and other positive influences who looked out for him and his crew while they were coming up. Additional donations can be made at the event with a QR code, and will go towards TurfFeinz building a dance studio in their community—though they are only in the planning stages of this concept.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We are a part of this community so we’re looking out for each other and merging different groups together,” says Morgan. “We just want people to come to the space to dance and enjoy themselves. Stick always made sure we stayed positive, so this is something we can do for him.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The beer—appropriately titled “Town Feinz”—is a crisp Kolsch with 5.10 percent ABV (as a tribute to the 510 area code). It’s a typical release for Ale Industries, which continually puts out beers that represent Oakland’s cultural fabrics. Specifically, the brewery’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.aleindustries.com/beer-tbk\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Town Beer Collaboration Project\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> partners with local orgs and businesses including \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.aleindustries.com/blog-news/townroots\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Oakland’s professional soccer team, Roots SC\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, LGBT nonprofit Town Pride and even the Oakland Zoo.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We are a small brewery, but we had one clear goal for a concept of Oakland at the front and center,” says \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jonathan Acosta Rosales, the brewery’s director of marketing and distribution. “\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We wanted to do a limited edition label for specific organizations. We felt like we could do more in telling the stories with the labels, social media and elevating their platform.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919132\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13919132\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"a white beer can with a colorful image of the facial silhouettes of local dancers and information about the beer\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A mock up design for the limited edition “Town Feinz” Kolsch. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Ale Industries)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ale Industries’ involvement with TurfFeinz is monumental, since the dance group has been at the forefront of turfing for decades. The group has been immortalized in murals around Oakland and regularly appears in music videos for rappers, most recently with LA’s YG, as well as \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sp3697UNemg\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">local favorites like ALLBLACK and G-Eazy\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The dance form is unique to the East Bay and, with the help of TurfFeinz, has gone on to represent Northern California culture in international competitions and popular media such as \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Fortnite\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13902507,arts_13914400,arts_13917398']This Saturday night won’t just be about an ice-cold beer drop. It’ll equally be about Ice Cold 3000 and fellow TurfFeinz crew members—\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqkECFUbi7g\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chonkie (who created the “Smeez” dance)\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, T7, Aktive, Kurry, Yaya and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOzwlrR5uc4\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Looney (founder of TurfFeinz)\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—spilling their dance moves and unifying with roller skaters in a playful battle.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It felt like an interesting idea to explore,” Morgan explains. “It’s gonna be a new thing for everybody, including us. This is the first time these three categories are coming together. We’re willing to take that risk.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When it comes to originality and innovation, leave it up to these Bay Area favorites to brew up dance moves \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">and\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> beer notes that are truly expressive.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s about elevating the presence of these Oakland legends in our community and aiding their goal to have a band studio for kids who don’t have an outlet to be creative,” Acosta Rosales adds. “Hopefully this helps them and helps us. Like the TurfFeinz say, ‘I shine, you shine, we shine together.’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://drinkbaybeer.com/profiles/aleindustries/ale-industries-turf-skate-brewski\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Turf Skate Brewski\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is happening at Ale Industries (3096 E 10th St, Oakland) on Saturday, Sept. 13, from 4–7pm. Free.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/icecold3000/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gary “Ice Cold 3000” Morgan\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—a member of Oakland’s globally recognized \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theturffeinz/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">dance crew, TurfFeinz\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—was growing up, he would attend the Boys and Girls Club on 85th and E.14th in East Oakland. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There, he met Stick, an OG community mentor who looked out for Morgan and his friends, encouraging the young men to use the basketball gym and dance room despite not being members. For years, Morgan jokingly told Stick that he would one day donate money to the Club so that other young Oaklanders could benefit from it, too. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Over a decade later, Morgan is keeping his word by hosting a one-of-a-kind event: \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://drinkbaybeer.com/profiles/aleindustries/ale-industries-turf-skate-brewski\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Turf Skate Brewski\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Not only will the evening feature a special-edition beer release from \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.aleindustries.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ale Industries\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, but the TurfFeinz are also throwing \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0kaLabJOv8\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a turf battle\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> featuring dancers and roller skaters. Each turf dancer will pair up with a skater in a team-elimination style dance-off—something Morgan says has never been done. It’s a function that Morgan and his crew hope will merge Bay Area communities that don’t often overlap: turfers, roller skaters and beer drinkers.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A portion of the proceeds from the beer sales will go to the East Oakland chapter of the Boys and Girls Club, which Morgan says is in honor of Stick and other positive influences who looked out for him and his crew while they were coming up. Additional donations can be made at the event with a QR code, and will go towards TurfFeinz building a dance studio in their community—though they are only in the planning stages of this concept.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We are a part of this community so we’re looking out for each other and merging different groups together,” says Morgan. “We just want people to come to the space to dance and enjoy themselves. Stick always made sure we stayed positive, so this is something we can do for him.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The beer—appropriately titled “Town Feinz”—is a crisp Kolsch with 5.10 percent ABV (as a tribute to the 510 area code). It’s a typical release for Ale Industries, which continually puts out beers that represent Oakland’s cultural fabrics. Specifically, the brewery’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.aleindustries.com/beer-tbk\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Town Beer Collaboration Project\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> partners with local orgs and businesses including \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.aleindustries.com/blog-news/townroots\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Oakland’s professional soccer team, Roots SC\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, LGBT nonprofit Town Pride and even the Oakland Zoo.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We are a small brewery, but we had one clear goal for a concept of Oakland at the front and center,” says \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jonathan Acosta Rosales, the brewery’s director of marketing and distribution. “\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We wanted to do a limited edition label for specific organizations. We felt like we could do more in telling the stories with the labels, social media and elevating their platform.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919132\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13919132\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"a white beer can with a colorful image of the facial silhouettes of local dancers and information about the beer\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A mock up design for the limited edition “Town Feinz” Kolsch. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Ale Industries)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ale Industries’ involvement with TurfFeinz is monumental, since the dance group has been at the forefront of turfing for decades. The group has been immortalized in murals around Oakland and regularly appears in music videos for rappers, most recently with LA’s YG, as well as \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sp3697UNemg\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">local favorites like ALLBLACK and G-Eazy\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The dance form is unique to the East Bay and, with the help of TurfFeinz, has gone on to represent Northern California culture in international competitions and popular media such as \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Fortnite\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>This Saturday night won’t just be about an ice-cold beer drop. It’ll equally be about Ice Cold 3000 and fellow TurfFeinz crew members—\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqkECFUbi7g\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chonkie (who created the “Smeez” dance)\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, T7, Aktive, Kurry, Yaya and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOzwlrR5uc4\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Looney (founder of TurfFeinz)\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—spilling their dance moves and unifying with roller skaters in a playful battle.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It felt like an interesting idea to explore,” Morgan explains. “It’s gonna be a new thing for everybody, including us. This is the first time these three categories are coming together. We’re willing to take that risk.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When it comes to originality and innovation, leave it up to these Bay Area favorites to brew up dance moves \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">and\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> beer notes that are truly expressive.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s about elevating the presence of these Oakland legends in our community and aiding their goal to have a band studio for kids who don’t have an outlet to be creative,” Acosta Rosales adds. “Hopefully this helps them and helps us. Like the TurfFeinz say, ‘I shine, you shine, we shine together.’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://drinkbaybeer.com/profiles/aleindustries/ale-industries-turf-skate-brewski\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Turf Skate Brewski\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is happening at Ale Industries (3096 E 10th St, Oakland) on Saturday, Sept. 13, from 4–7pm. Free.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "norte-54-modern-mexican-american-bakery-conchas-pan-dulce-san-francisco",
"title": "Norte 54 Is Innovating Pan Dulce for Today’s Bay Area",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Here’s an outright confession: I’m not a morning pastries kind of guy. Coffee and a bagel? Sure. But when it comes to morning sweets, it takes a certain kind of treat to really get me out of bed. The French and Italian stuff just doesn’t do it for me. I need Mexican pan dulce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you’ve ever bitten into a pillowy, freshly warmed concha, then you know why it’s the most popular morning (and late night) snack for millions of Mexicans of all ages. From the classic chocolate brown and vanilla white flavors to versions whose swirling pinks and oranges resemble a rainbow sherbet spillage, conchas—along with the many other varieties of pan dulce—are a must-have for any madrugada.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So when I heard about \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/norte.54/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Norte 54, a pop-up bakery\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> founded in 2020 by former Nopa pastry assistant Raquel Goldman, I knew I had to tap in. Here, the conchas come with decadent, nontraditional toppings like salted caramel, Duvalin (a Mexican candy) and strawberry—some are even filled with fruit. These modernized conchas are just one part of how Goldman is leading the way for a new wave of Mexican baked goods in San Francisco.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Born in Mexico City, Goldman was mostly raised in Miami before moving to the Bay Area as an adult. While living in the Bay, she discovered the joy of baking and cultural self-expression. She attended the San Francisco Cooking School’s culinary and pastry program in 2018 and has since built a reputation as one of the 415’s most forward-thinking Mexican American bakers. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With original creations like her Poli cake (a sophisticated interpretation of a famous Twinkie-like Mexican cake) and her rendition of a Mexico City-style Garibaldi, the Cole Valley resident isn’t trying to compete with the classic panaderias of the Mission. Instead, she’s creating her own lane, unique to her identity as a “chilanga” who grew up visiting her family in Mexico City but never felt fully seen as a Mexicana. Now, Goldman is reclaiming her roots and serving up some of the hottest pan dulces in the Bay Area. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The pan dulce at Norte 54 was more than enough to get me out of bed and across the Bay Bridge for a morning conversation about heritage, home and concha-shaped happiness.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">********\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: What’s the story behind Norte 54?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Norte 54 is the name of the house where my grandmother lives in Colonia Emiliano Zapata in Mexico City. I started Norte 54 in 2020, baking from my home [in San Francisco] for the first three months of the pandemic. My former boss and co-owner of Nopalito\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">found out and asked me where I was baking. When I told her I was doing it from home, she told me they had space at Nopalito. Everyone was pivoting at that time. Nopalito had just opened a street-serving window on 18th St. to figure out a way to keep going. So I started serving my conchas there and used their kitchen.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919034\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13919034 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a to-go box filled with a variety of Mexican pastries \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A to-go box filled with a variety of Mexican pastries (top: conchas; bottom left: Garibaldis; bottom right: Poli Cakes). \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Can you explain your “modern Mexican baked goods” approach?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s kind of ironic. Conchas have been around for centuries, essentially. There’s nothing modern about that, really. It’s more about leaning into things that I want to look good visually, graphically. That’s a modern design aspect. And we’re in California—I’m trying to tap into local ingredients and highlight seasonal produce. In that sense, it’s modern. I want to stay classic—I don’t want to do anything that is too trendy, I guess. I want to pay homage to a classic panaderia—chocolate, vanilla—as much as possible. I have other ideas and I love what’s happening outside of that in other places, but I want to stay clean and simple. And delicious.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are “Garibaldis”? I’ve never heard of those pastries, but I’m guessing they’re connected to Plaza Garibaldi in Mexico City?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Garibaldi was an Italian revolutionary, a Civil War hero in Italy. Mexico has ties to that because many Italians left Italy during that time, and that’s why Garibaldi Plaza [in Mexico City] is named after him. Once Mexico went into their own Civil War, many Italians left that area. But there was a panaderia in Garibaldi called \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.elglobo.com.mx/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">El Globo\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that survived. The original location opened at Plaza Garibaldi but then became a national chain. The traditional Garibaldi [pastry] is a pound cake with apricot jam and covered in sprinkles. They’re typical in Mexico City. Mine isn’t covered in sprinkles, though. I use amaranth, and instead of only using apricot jam, I use seasonal fruits. I cycle through whatever is available. This week is stone fruit. Heading into fall, I’ll most likely use apple butter or pear compote. Whatever fruits I can get.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are some of the most popular menu items that define your bakery? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Conchas, Garibaldis, novias [sugar buns]. These are pastries I enjoyed while learning techniques from a Mexican baker online. I was exposed to lots of the things he made. Novias are always the same. Conchas I change the topping flavor. And I have a stuffed concha with changing fruit inside. Also, Poli cakes. That’s my version of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2EqosUo9uQ\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a Gansito—with jam, marshmallow and chocolate\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. I get my berries from a local strawberry farmer at the market. “Poli” is his name. He jokingly told me to make Gansitos. So I did and dedicated it to him. I rolled out the Poli cake a year and a half ago. Nothing has its own following like that.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919035\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13919035\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"a knife slices a Mexican chocolate pastry in half, revealing layers of marshmallow, cake and strawberry jam inside\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Goldman slices open a Poli cake to reveal layers of marshmallow, cake and strawberry jam. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tell me about your “churro donut.” I’ve never eaten one before.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s a seasonal item, usually for October. It’s a cake doughnut that gets tossed in cinnamon sugar. I like doughnuts, and I like churros, so I thought making this cake doughnut could be fun. Doughnuts aren’t extremely common in Mexico, but I found a way to justify having them. I want to appeal to the core values of Mexicano culture and flavor. It’s a good marriage of straddling both cultures. Who doesn’t love fried dough?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>San Francisco, particularly the Mission, has a strong lineage of panaderias. How have you been able to learn from what’s already available here while still adding your own touches and flavors? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13899700,arts_13917120']I know many panaderias exist. La Mejor, La Victoria, Luna. They have great pan, conchas, everything. But to be honest, I haven’t bothered too much in seeing what others are doing. I appreciate and enjoy them, but I like to stay in my lane and do my own thing. I’m not trying to do what they’re doing, and I’m not at that scale yet anyways. I’m still operating on a micro level and doing things how I’m able to.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Can you tell us more about your Mexican pastry box delivery service? It reminds me of panaderos in Mexico who sell their goods by going door to door in the neighborhood.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s a box with five items (there’s also a mini version for pickup on Sundays at Grand Coffee). It always has a concha, granola and a chocolate chip cookie. The other two items are rotating specials: maybe tres leches, Garibaldis, or Poli cakes. If I want to try something exciting, I might make a pie de queso (cheesecake). Those are items that won’t come out at markets; they’re just for the box orders and available for one-time orders or subscription. It’s a fun way to play around and experiment. I only offer SF delivery at this time.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s next at Norte 54?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">October is Latinx Heritage Month so there will be lots to look forward to. I’ll be rolling out pan de muerto and these cute little calaveras. It’s a challenging but fun time, since I make so many during that time. It’s just another way for me to tap into my culture.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.norte54.com/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Norte 54\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is open on Tuesdays 10am–2pm at Ferry Plaza Market; Thursdays 3–7pm at \u003ca href=\"http://missioncommunitymarket.org/\">Mission Mercado\u003c/a> (March to November); Tues.–Sun. 11:30am until sold out at Nopalito (306 Broderick St., San Francisco); Wed.–Sun. noon until sold out at Nopalito To Go (3690 18th St., San Francisco); Mexican pastry \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.norte54.com/plans-pricing\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">box delivery available weekly\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (SF only).\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Here’s an outright confession: I’m not a morning pastries kind of guy. Coffee and a bagel? Sure. But when it comes to morning sweets, it takes a certain kind of treat to really get me out of bed. The French and Italian stuff just doesn’t do it for me. I need Mexican pan dulce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you’ve ever bitten into a pillowy, freshly warmed concha, then you know why it’s the most popular morning (and late night) snack for millions of Mexicans of all ages. From the classic chocolate brown and vanilla white flavors to versions whose swirling pinks and oranges resemble a rainbow sherbet spillage, conchas—along with the many other varieties of pan dulce—are a must-have for any madrugada.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So when I heard about \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/norte.54/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Norte 54, a pop-up bakery\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> founded in 2020 by former Nopa pastry assistant Raquel Goldman, I knew I had to tap in. Here, the conchas come with decadent, nontraditional toppings like salted caramel, Duvalin (a Mexican candy) and strawberry—some are even filled with fruit. These modernized conchas are just one part of how Goldman is leading the way for a new wave of Mexican baked goods in San Francisco.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Born in Mexico City, Goldman was mostly raised in Miami before moving to the Bay Area as an adult. While living in the Bay, she discovered the joy of baking and cultural self-expression. She attended the San Francisco Cooking School’s culinary and pastry program in 2018 and has since built a reputation as one of the 415’s most forward-thinking Mexican American bakers. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With original creations like her Poli cake (a sophisticated interpretation of a famous Twinkie-like Mexican cake) and her rendition of a Mexico City-style Garibaldi, the Cole Valley resident isn’t trying to compete with the classic panaderias of the Mission. Instead, she’s creating her own lane, unique to her identity as a “chilanga” who grew up visiting her family in Mexico City but never felt fully seen as a Mexicana. Now, Goldman is reclaiming her roots and serving up some of the hottest pan dulces in the Bay Area. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The pan dulce at Norte 54 was more than enough to get me out of bed and across the Bay Bridge for a morning conversation about heritage, home and concha-shaped happiness.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">********\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: What’s the story behind Norte 54?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Norte 54 is the name of the house where my grandmother lives in Colonia Emiliano Zapata in Mexico City. I started Norte 54 in 2020, baking from my home [in San Francisco] for the first three months of the pandemic. My former boss and co-owner of Nopalito\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">found out and asked me where I was baking. When I told her I was doing it from home, she told me they had space at Nopalito. Everyone was pivoting at that time. Nopalito had just opened a street-serving window on 18th St. to figure out a way to keep going. So I started serving my conchas there and used their kitchen.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919034\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13919034 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a to-go box filled with a variety of Mexican pastries \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A to-go box filled with a variety of Mexican pastries (top: conchas; bottom left: Garibaldis; bottom right: Poli Cakes). \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Can you explain your “modern Mexican baked goods” approach?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s kind of ironic. Conchas have been around for centuries, essentially. There’s nothing modern about that, really. It’s more about leaning into things that I want to look good visually, graphically. That’s a modern design aspect. And we’re in California—I’m trying to tap into local ingredients and highlight seasonal produce. In that sense, it’s modern. I want to stay classic—I don’t want to do anything that is too trendy, I guess. I want to pay homage to a classic panaderia—chocolate, vanilla—as much as possible. I have other ideas and I love what’s happening outside of that in other places, but I want to stay clean and simple. And delicious.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are “Garibaldis”? I’ve never heard of those pastries, but I’m guessing they’re connected to Plaza Garibaldi in Mexico City?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Garibaldi was an Italian revolutionary, a Civil War hero in Italy. Mexico has ties to that because many Italians left Italy during that time, and that’s why Garibaldi Plaza [in Mexico City] is named after him. Once Mexico went into their own Civil War, many Italians left that area. But there was a panaderia in Garibaldi called \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.elglobo.com.mx/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">El Globo\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that survived. The original location opened at Plaza Garibaldi but then became a national chain. The traditional Garibaldi [pastry] is a pound cake with apricot jam and covered in sprinkles. They’re typical in Mexico City. Mine isn’t covered in sprinkles, though. I use amaranth, and instead of only using apricot jam, I use seasonal fruits. I cycle through whatever is available. This week is stone fruit. Heading into fall, I’ll most likely use apple butter or pear compote. Whatever fruits I can get.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are some of the most popular menu items that define your bakery? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Conchas, Garibaldis, novias [sugar buns]. These are pastries I enjoyed while learning techniques from a Mexican baker online. I was exposed to lots of the things he made. Novias are always the same. Conchas I change the topping flavor. And I have a stuffed concha with changing fruit inside. Also, Poli cakes. That’s my version of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2EqosUo9uQ\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a Gansito—with jam, marshmallow and chocolate\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. I get my berries from a local strawberry farmer at the market. “Poli” is his name. He jokingly told me to make Gansitos. So I did and dedicated it to him. I rolled out the Poli cake a year and a half ago. Nothing has its own following like that.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919035\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13919035\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"a knife slices a Mexican chocolate pastry in half, revealing layers of marshmallow, cake and strawberry jam inside\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Goldman slices open a Poli cake to reveal layers of marshmallow, cake and strawberry jam. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tell me about your “churro donut.” I’ve never eaten one before.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s a seasonal item, usually for October. It’s a cake doughnut that gets tossed in cinnamon sugar. I like doughnuts, and I like churros, so I thought making this cake doughnut could be fun. Doughnuts aren’t extremely common in Mexico, but I found a way to justify having them. I want to appeal to the core values of Mexicano culture and flavor. It’s a good marriage of straddling both cultures. Who doesn’t love fried dough?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>San Francisco, particularly the Mission, has a strong lineage of panaderias. How have you been able to learn from what’s already available here while still adding your own touches and flavors? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>I know many panaderias exist. La Mejor, La Victoria, Luna. They have great pan, conchas, everything. But to be honest, I haven’t bothered too much in seeing what others are doing. I appreciate and enjoy them, but I like to stay in my lane and do my own thing. I’m not trying to do what they’re doing, and I’m not at that scale yet anyways. I’m still operating on a micro level and doing things how I’m able to.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Can you tell us more about your Mexican pastry box delivery service? It reminds me of panaderos in Mexico who sell their goods by going door to door in the neighborhood.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s a box with five items (there’s also a mini version for pickup on Sundays at Grand Coffee). It always has a concha, granola and a chocolate chip cookie. The other two items are rotating specials: maybe tres leches, Garibaldis, or Poli cakes. If I want to try something exciting, I might make a pie de queso (cheesecake). Those are items that won’t come out at markets; they’re just for the box orders and available for one-time orders or subscription. It’s a fun way to play around and experiment. I only offer SF delivery at this time.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s next at Norte 54?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">October is Latinx Heritage Month so there will be lots to look forward to. I’ll be rolling out pan de muerto and these cute little calaveras. It’s a challenging but fun time, since I make so many during that time. It’s just another way for me to tap into my culture.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.norte54.com/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Norte 54\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is open on Tuesdays 10am–2pm at Ferry Plaza Market; Thursdays 3–7pm at \u003ca href=\"http://missioncommunitymarket.org/\">Mission Mercado\u003c/a> (March to November); Tues.–Sun. 11:30am until sold out at Nopalito (306 Broderick St., San Francisco); Wed.–Sun. noon until sold out at Nopalito To Go (3690 18th St., San Francisco); Mexican pastry \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.norte54.com/plans-pricing\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">box delivery available weekly\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (SF only).\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "One of the East Bay’s Best Taiwanese Restaurants Doubles Down on Karaoke",
"headTitle": "One of the East Bay’s Best Taiwanese Restaurants Doubles Down on Karaoke | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In its nearly eight years of business, Dragon Gate Bar & Grille was a one-of-a-kind place in Oakland. As a restaurant, it served, hands down, some of the best Taiwanese food in the area—luxuriously tender \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.noodles.guru/2014/06/go-for-karaoke-stay-for-taiwanese-beef.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">beef noodle soup\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, stinky tofu and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/enter-the-dragon-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">street-style grilled sausages\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> sandwiched around slices of raw garlic. The genuine article. Then, in the back, there were the handful of private karaoke rooms where the real party happened, to the tune of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/dragon-gate-bar-and-grille-oakland-2?select=KaPg5y08CsezocTmBvw4Fw\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">$190 bottle service\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and as many Jay Chou and Jolin Tsai bangers as you cared to belt out.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Then, like so many beloved spots, the restaurant closed mid-pandemic, in January of this year, with barely a whimper and little more than an \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/DragonGateOak/posts/pfbid0oKKk11hdCDhW2CmvdckebYDmRsLAvQRJ4aHNE5uYGT5ULi4fewa5gWVAgoz5Huvl\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">obligatory Eater obit\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Good news, though. In a few months, Dragon Gate will rise again a few blocks away from its original 300 Broadway location at a waterfront spot in Jack London Square proper—the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eastbaytimes.com/2019/10/01/oaklands-longtime-kincaids-closes-after-years-33-years/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">former home of Kincaid’s\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. And owner Johnny Chang is doubling down on what he believes to be the restaurant’s greatest weapon: This time, he says, there will be even more karaoke rooms, and they’ll be bigger and better than before.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">News of the comeback is a welcome relief for Taiwanese food lovers. While \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897272/bay-area-taiwanese-food-scene-nostalgia\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the Bay Area has seen a resurgence of the cuisine\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the past couple of years, Oakland suffered a major setback with the loss of both Dragon Gate and, a few months later, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916312/taiwan-bento-closing-taiwanese-restaurant-oakland\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Taiwan Bento\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Chang says the restaurant faced all of the typical difficulties of these past two years, exacerbated by the amount of real estate it had dedicated to its karaoke rooms, which were unusable for almost the entirety of the pandemic. Left with only the meager income he could generate via delivery app-based takeout, Chang decided it didn’t make sense to renew the lease at Dragon Gate’s original location.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/vmhMJMgIfK/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The success of Dragon Gate 2.0 will, of course, depend largely on whether or not the ballad-belting public is ready to return to karaoke lounges like his in the near future. Karaoke—or “KTV,” as the private-room iteration of it is known in Taiwan—is another of the niche industries that have been disproportionately impacted by COVID shutdowns and people’s shifting levels of comfort around small enclosed spaces. Many of the Bay Area’s most popular karaoke spots have reopened with various COVID safety precautions in place—reduced capacity restrictions, for instance, and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://datebook.sfchronicle.com/music/singing-along-with-full-hearts-karaoke-nights-return-to-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">little shower cap-like microphone covers\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Others simply closed altogether. Chang knows this first hand: He used to run MoneyBox, a KTV-style karaoke spot in Richmond’s Pacific East Mall. MoneyBox closed at the start of the pandemic and just never reopened, despite the hopeful handwritten signs periodically posted in the window. Chang wound up selling the business.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13897936,arts_13916312']Still, Chang is hopeful that customers are ready to return, especially since he plans to design the new Dragon Gate with those safety concerns in mind. “After the pandemic, I think it’s better to have more private rooms—bigger rooms—so people can get together,” Chang says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, the new restaurant’s nearly 14,000 square feet of space (including a back patio) will allow for socially distanced crooning in karaoke rooms that are quite a bit larger than they were at the old location. Not for nothing, the rooms will be swankier too, with sweeping views of the waterfront. The idea, Chang says, is that customers might book one of these rooms for the night and enjoy a full-service dinner there as well.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“In the old style, the room is only for karaoke,” Chang says. “Now it’s different. It’s like your own suite.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As far as the food goes, everything will remain more or less the same. Chang says that whether customers book a private room or sit down for meal in the dining room or at the bar, they should expect to be able to order all of their old favorites—the beef noodle soup, the homey dried-radish omelet and the saucy, umami-forward dish known as “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/enter-the-dragon-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">idiot noodles\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,” with its toppings of fish floss, ground pork and simmered pork belly.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/yBVb1rgIV5/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s been a busy time for Chang, who is in full expansion mode at this late stage of the pandemic. He’s currently juggling about a half a dozen new projects, including a huge Dragon Gate outpost \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://whatnowvegas.com/oakland-born-dragon-gate-bar-and-grille-coming-to-las-vegas/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">opening soon in Las Vegas\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a forthcoming Oakland Chinatown pub focused on late-night Taiwanese street snacks (in the former Eden Silk Road spot), and a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.hotpotnationrichmond.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">new hot pot restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the Pacific East Mall. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The hope is to cap it all off with the return of his Oakland flagship. If all goes well, the new Dragon Gate will open in early 2023, perhaps in time to ring in the Lunar New Year.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dragongate300.com/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Dragon Gate Bar & Grille\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> will open at 1 Franklin St. in Oakland in early 2023.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In its nearly eight years of business, Dragon Gate Bar & Grille was a one-of-a-kind place in Oakland. As a restaurant, it served, hands down, some of the best Taiwanese food in the area—luxuriously tender \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.noodles.guru/2014/06/go-for-karaoke-stay-for-taiwanese-beef.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">beef noodle soup\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, stinky tofu and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/enter-the-dragon-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">street-style grilled sausages\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> sandwiched around slices of raw garlic. The genuine article. Then, in the back, there were the handful of private karaoke rooms where the real party happened, to the tune of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/dragon-gate-bar-and-grille-oakland-2?select=KaPg5y08CsezocTmBvw4Fw\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">$190 bottle service\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and as many Jay Chou and Jolin Tsai bangers as you cared to belt out.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Then, like so many beloved spots, the restaurant closed mid-pandemic, in January of this year, with barely a whimper and little more than an \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/DragonGateOak/posts/pfbid0oKKk11hdCDhW2CmvdckebYDmRsLAvQRJ4aHNE5uYGT5ULi4fewa5gWVAgoz5Huvl\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">obligatory Eater obit\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Good news, though. In a few months, Dragon Gate will rise again a few blocks away from its original 300 Broadway location at a waterfront spot in Jack London Square proper—the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eastbaytimes.com/2019/10/01/oaklands-longtime-kincaids-closes-after-years-33-years/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">former home of Kincaid’s\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. And owner Johnny Chang is doubling down on what he believes to be the restaurant’s greatest weapon: This time, he says, there will be even more karaoke rooms, and they’ll be bigger and better than before.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">News of the comeback is a welcome relief for Taiwanese food lovers. While \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897272/bay-area-taiwanese-food-scene-nostalgia\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the Bay Area has seen a resurgence of the cuisine\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the past couple of years, Oakland suffered a major setback with the loss of both Dragon Gate and, a few months later, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916312/taiwan-bento-closing-taiwanese-restaurant-oakland\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Taiwan Bento\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Chang says the restaurant faced all of the typical difficulties of these past two years, exacerbated by the amount of real estate it had dedicated to its karaoke rooms, which were unusable for almost the entirety of the pandemic. Left with only the meager income he could generate via delivery app-based takeout, Chang decided it didn’t make sense to renew the lease at Dragon Gate’s original location.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The success of Dragon Gate 2.0 will, of course, depend largely on whether or not the ballad-belting public is ready to return to karaoke lounges like his in the near future. Karaoke—or “KTV,” as the private-room iteration of it is known in Taiwan—is another of the niche industries that have been disproportionately impacted by COVID shutdowns and people’s shifting levels of comfort around small enclosed spaces. Many of the Bay Area’s most popular karaoke spots have reopened with various COVID safety precautions in place—reduced capacity restrictions, for instance, and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://datebook.sfchronicle.com/music/singing-along-with-full-hearts-karaoke-nights-return-to-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">little shower cap-like microphone covers\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Others simply closed altogether. Chang knows this first hand: He used to run MoneyBox, a KTV-style karaoke spot in Richmond’s Pacific East Mall. MoneyBox closed at the start of the pandemic and just never reopened, despite the hopeful handwritten signs periodically posted in the window. Chang wound up selling the business.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Still, Chang is hopeful that customers are ready to return, especially since he plans to design the new Dragon Gate with those safety concerns in mind. “After the pandemic, I think it’s better to have more private rooms—bigger rooms—so people can get together,” Chang says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, the new restaurant’s nearly 14,000 square feet of space (including a back patio) will allow for socially distanced crooning in karaoke rooms that are quite a bit larger than they were at the old location. Not for nothing, the rooms will be swankier too, with sweeping views of the waterfront. The idea, Chang says, is that customers might book one of these rooms for the night and enjoy a full-service dinner there as well.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“In the old style, the room is only for karaoke,” Chang says. “Now it’s different. It’s like your own suite.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As far as the food goes, everything will remain more or less the same. Chang says that whether customers book a private room or sit down for meal in the dining room or at the bar, they should expect to be able to order all of their old favorites—the beef noodle soup, the homey dried-radish omelet and the saucy, umami-forward dish known as “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/enter-the-dragon-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">idiot noodles\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,” with its toppings of fish floss, ground pork and simmered pork belly.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s been a busy time for Chang, who is in full expansion mode at this late stage of the pandemic. He’s currently juggling about a half a dozen new projects, including a huge Dragon Gate outpost \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://whatnowvegas.com/oakland-born-dragon-gate-bar-and-grille-coming-to-las-vegas/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">opening soon in Las Vegas\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a forthcoming Oakland Chinatown pub focused on late-night Taiwanese street snacks (in the former Eden Silk Road spot), and a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.hotpotnationrichmond.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">new hot pot restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the Pacific East Mall. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The hope is to cap it all off with the return of his Oakland flagship. If all goes well, the new Dragon Gate will open in early 2023, perhaps in time to ring in the Lunar New Year.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dragongate300.com/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Dragon Gate Bar & Grille\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> will open at 1 Franklin St. in Oakland in early 2023.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Like magic, a gleaming, gold and red metal box decorated with ornate flowers would appear on my family’s kitchen counter every September. I’d exchange playful glances with my baba in the morning. Later that night, we’d open the box in the backyard, unveiling perfect rows of mooncakes: dense, sweet pastries filled with various pastes and dried egg yolk. Like many others in the Chinese diaspora, I looked forward to the Mid-Autumn Festival as another opportunity to connect with my parents—who, under the glow of a full moon and warm from celebrations, were more forthcoming about themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This feeling of warmth and community is something that artist \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/yconniezheng/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Connie Zheng\u003c/a> is carrying into her upcoming Mooncake Harvest Party on Sept. 8 at \u003ca href=\"https://www.41ross.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">41 Ross\u003c/a>—a community art space created by \u003ca href=\"https://www.chinatowncdc.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">The Chinatown Community Development Center\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"https://www.cccsf.us/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Chinese Culture Center of San Francisco\u003c/a>—for an evening of poetry readings, food, music and conversation. Attendees will also be able to observe Zheng’s \u003cem>Table to Farm\u003c/em> exhibit, a culmination of her efforts in collaborating with local Chinatown residents during her residency at 41 Ross.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside the space, the walls are painted yellow and decorated with a collection of luminous watercolor paintings, ink drawings and a map documenting Asian farmworker history in California. “I’ve been thinking of it as an invitation for visitors to critically reconsider and rethink farm-to-table pathways through a diasporic Asian perspective,” said Zheng. “And to think of Chinatown as a center place of food culture and food history, rather than a marginal place.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zheng’s active efforts to contextualize and redirect attention to Asian food culture have inspired fellow artists preparing to perform at Thursday’s Mooncake Harvest Party. Poet \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/poetshelley/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Shelley Wong\u003c/a> will read work that “name checks” the nostalgia of her adolescence, shouting out icons like Hello Kitty and Michelle Kwan, and reminiscing about her favorite memories of Chinatown restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m just so happy to share the work with others and to write poems from joy—write the poems that I wanted to have as a young person,” said Wong. “And to share in a room with people who understand and know the references without me having to explain them, who know who Claudia Kishi is and know what jook is.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Will Liang and Jason Du, a DJ duo known as \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/r.e.d.beans/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">redbeans\u003c/a>, similarly experience their art and music through a lens of nostalgia, reclamation and queer diasporic joy. Ready to feed off the energy of the crowd and each other, Liang and Du are in control of the sonic environment of Thursday’s party. They’ll be mixing together older Chinese pop songs with experimental sounds that are both cathartic and healing, and hyping each other up. “I love being Will’s backup dancer,” said Du, laughing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The night will lead up to the unveiling of mooncakes designed by San Francisco Chinatown SRO residents and Zheng, with the assistance of local favorites \u003ca href=\"https://www.gardenbakerysf.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Garden Bakery\u003c/a> and Yummy Bakery. The process has been challenging: first, there were the several rounds of design edits. Then, there was the arduous process of translating the designs into 3D models and molds, and then testing them. Zheng credits the local creative scene for stepping up to help her during each step of the way—the night is as much a celebration of their collective efforts as it is of her own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It feels like the relationships I built over time are really fruiting in this beautiful way—people whose work I’ve admired and consider friends,” said Zheng. “I now have this opportunity to create a platform and build space and a container to bring together folks whose work I really like. It was like a harvest of sorts.”\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Mooncake Harvest Party, hosted by Connie Zheng, takes place at 41 Ross in San Francisco on Sept. 8, 6-9pm. \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/mooncake-harvest-party-hosted-by-connie-zheng-tickets-404909413957\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Tickets and details here\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Like magic, a gleaming, gold and red metal box decorated with ornate flowers would appear on my family’s kitchen counter every September. I’d exchange playful glances with my baba in the morning. Later that night, we’d open the box in the backyard, unveiling perfect rows of mooncakes: dense, sweet pastries filled with various pastes and dried egg yolk. Like many others in the Chinese diaspora, I looked forward to the Mid-Autumn Festival as another opportunity to connect with my parents—who, under the glow of a full moon and warm from celebrations, were more forthcoming about themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This feeling of warmth and community is something that artist \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/yconniezheng/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Connie Zheng\u003c/a> is carrying into her upcoming Mooncake Harvest Party on Sept. 8 at \u003ca href=\"https://www.41ross.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">41 Ross\u003c/a>—a community art space created by \u003ca href=\"https://www.chinatowncdc.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">The Chinatown Community Development Center\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"https://www.cccsf.us/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Chinese Culture Center of San Francisco\u003c/a>—for an evening of poetry readings, food, music and conversation. Attendees will also be able to observe Zheng’s \u003cem>Table to Farm\u003c/em> exhibit, a culmination of her efforts in collaborating with local Chinatown residents during her residency at 41 Ross.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside the space, the walls are painted yellow and decorated with a collection of luminous watercolor paintings, ink drawings and a map documenting Asian farmworker history in California. “I’ve been thinking of it as an invitation for visitors to critically reconsider and rethink farm-to-table pathways through a diasporic Asian perspective,” said Zheng. “And to think of Chinatown as a center place of food culture and food history, rather than a marginal place.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zheng’s active efforts to contextualize and redirect attention to Asian food culture have inspired fellow artists preparing to perform at Thursday’s Mooncake Harvest Party. Poet \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/poetshelley/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Shelley Wong\u003c/a> will read work that “name checks” the nostalgia of her adolescence, shouting out icons like Hello Kitty and Michelle Kwan, and reminiscing about her favorite memories of Chinatown restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m just so happy to share the work with others and to write poems from joy—write the poems that I wanted to have as a young person,” said Wong. “And to share in a room with people who understand and know the references without me having to explain them, who know who Claudia Kishi is and know what jook is.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Will Liang and Jason Du, a DJ duo known as \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/r.e.d.beans/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">redbeans\u003c/a>, similarly experience their art and music through a lens of nostalgia, reclamation and queer diasporic joy. Ready to feed off the energy of the crowd and each other, Liang and Du are in control of the sonic environment of Thursday’s party. They’ll be mixing together older Chinese pop songs with experimental sounds that are both cathartic and healing, and hyping each other up. “I love being Will’s backup dancer,” said Du, laughing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The night will lead up to the unveiling of mooncakes designed by San Francisco Chinatown SRO residents and Zheng, with the assistance of local favorites \u003ca href=\"https://www.gardenbakerysf.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Garden Bakery\u003c/a> and Yummy Bakery. The process has been challenging: first, there were the several rounds of design edits. Then, there was the arduous process of translating the designs into 3D models and molds, and then testing them. Zheng credits the local creative scene for stepping up to help her during each step of the way—the night is as much a celebration of their collective efforts as it is of her own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It feels like the relationships I built over time are really fruiting in this beautiful way—people whose work I’ve admired and consider friends,” said Zheng. “I now have this opportunity to create a platform and build space and a container to bring together folks whose work I really like. It was like a harvest of sorts.”\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Mooncake Harvest Party, hosted by Connie Zheng, takes place at 41 Ross in San Francisco on Sept. 8, 6-9pm. \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/mooncake-harvest-party-hosted-by-connie-zheng-tickets-404909413957\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Tickets and details here\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "A Formerly Incarcerated Construction Worker Finds Freedom in the Kitchen",
"headTitle": "A Formerly Incarcerated Construction Worker Finds Freedom in the Kitchen | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]E[/dropcap]very weekday, Jonathan Davis wakes up at 6am and heads into the yawn of morning light in his construction boots. As a full-time employee of WBE Traffic Control, he operates all over the East Bay, establishing safe zones for workers to repair power lines. It’s a systematized job, filled with rigid procedures, rules, and protocols that he and his coworkers abide by to maintain public safety.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Around 5pm he returns home to a three-year-old daughter who recently started preschool. He prepares dinner, watches \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Boys\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, then repeats his regiment the following day. It’s a churning livelihood that he embraces—even on Saturdays—in order to make ends meet, a prototypically American dedication to a grind that usually denies any form of extracurricular joy. The job isn’t glamorous, he tells me, but he’s grateful for it.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s because working in construction provides the backbone of income that allows Davis to do what he actually loves the most: cooking for others. On Sundays, he busts out his favorite recipes and vends food from his home, using social media and word-of-mouth to feed his community, friends and neighbors around Oakland and beyond.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Cooking is like an artistic outlet for me,” says Davis, age 41. “I get to create things and I get to share that with my friends and family. When something doesn’t taste right, I get to improve it and make it better.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For years, Davis has been perfecting his favorite dishes. A proud Oaklander, he says he grew up with a deep appreciation of the Bay Area’s tapestry of Asian and Latinx flavors—a cultural richness that gave him the confidence to experiment with the soul food ingredients he and his family grew up eating, including shrimp and grits, salmon and fried chicken.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But he’s most known for his sandwiches—chopped cheese like you’d find in a Harlem bodega and whimsical creations like the “MacArthur Rib,” a play on the McDonald’s classic. The sandos have earned him a reputation around The Town and helped fuel a burgeoning catering business. They also inspired the chef’s nickname: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jdthesandman/\">JD the Sandman\u003c/a>.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Yet, it wasn’t a culinary institute where Davis got his game from. And it wasn’t a Michelin-star restaurant that taught him the importance of fresh, diverse ingredients and food’s ability to connect people. It was elsewhere: behind the walls of the Federal Correctional Institution in Sheridan, Oregon.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Cooking from Scratch Inside a Federal Correctional Institution\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Prison is a reality that many Californians know very little about. For those who haven’t had first-hand experience, it’s often a figment of imagination largely based on movies and television shows, where violence is typically the primary focus. Most people know even less about what happens when a person re-enters society after serving their time. Occasionally, an investigative project like “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facing.life/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Facing Life\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">” (which KQED staff writer Pendarvis Harshaw co-authored) can illuminate the complexities of life after incarceration. Otherwise, it’s a taboo, and usually avoided, subject.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Davis was no different in the way he saw prison as something intangible in his own day-to-day life. A middle-class son of college graduates, he says his own incarceration is something he felt ashamed of, particularly as a Black man.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I invalidated my parent’s efforts, especially knowing the narratives of Black families,” Davis admits. “They were involved in our lives. My parents did all this work for us, and I still ended up in prison.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918519\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918519\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57647_016_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"Jonathan Davis looks out from the balcony of his apartment next to the freeway\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57647_016_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57647_016_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57647_016_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57647_016_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57647_016_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57647_016_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jonathan Davis stands on the deck at his apartment. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A former educational nonprofit employee in Oakland, Davis never thought he’d end up behind bars. In late 2010, he lost his job due to a disagreement with the principal after a student was expelled. In Davis’s telling of it, the incident had to do with race—he was pushing back in defense of Black students. After losing his job, Davis started to hang out with a crowd of people who introduced him to “scamming.” In that moment of financial need, he saw it as a quick way to turn a profit. In his eyes, he was hustling a governmental system rather than taking from individuals. But the scheme came crashing down in 2013 when the IRS raided his home, guns drawn.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I was a halfway criminal and didn’t cross my t’s or dot my i’s,” he says. “At that point in life, my faith in myself was weaker.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Davis faced up to 20 years in prison, but was ultimately sentenced to 30 months. He wound up serving 18 of those months at federal institutions in Nevada and Oregon. As soon as he was convicted, he accepted his role in his wrongdoing and decided to move forward with his life by facing the consequences of his actions.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\"]“It wasn’t a Michelin-star restaurant that taught [Davis] the importance of fresh, diverse ingredients and food’s ability to connect people. It was elsewhere: behind the walls of the Federal Correctional Institution.”[/pullquote]While imprisoned from 2014 to 2016, Davis’s good behavior landed him in a low-security environment, where he was given certain privileges. He joined a gardening program, frequently read about cooking and met people like \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/leasdef?ref_src=twsrc%5Egoogle%7Ctwcamp%5Eserp%7Ctwgr%5Eauthor\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kasey Anderson, a Portland-based songwriter\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Despite a largely solitary prison experience, Davis discovered that food was a way for him to relate with others and represent his heritage. He began to cook for himself and his blockmates, including Anderson, who recognized his skills.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It’s tough to know who’s a good cook when you’re inside,” Anderson says. “Everyone’s all working with the same ingredients from commissary. You can see who is innovative and using flavors in ways others aren’t. JD would get creative with his food, and when he had a chance to work with [more ingredients], he could really express himself creatively through food. It’s cool to me that it became something for him that can exist outside. A lot of people do things inside to get by, but then go out and do what they need to go paycheck to paycheck. He isn’t limiting himself in that sense.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Davis explains how, at times, he had to get extra creative with the limited ingredients and lack of traditional cooking equipment available to him in prison.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“There was a sweat lodge, and we cooked a piece of pork in there [one time],” he recalls. “[Another time] we made pizzas with tortillas and barbecue sauce. That was my idea. During my time, I just made friends with the kitchen guys, and that helped to keep my sanity.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Peanut butter was one of the most popular, versatile ingredients in prison—Davis recalls drawing inspiration from a peanut butter stew he’d once seen a Cameroonian immigrant whip up in his neighborhood, years prior. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Despite having almost no experience working inside a formal restaurant—though he’d once bartended at Kincaid’s in Jack London Square—Davis was naturally drawn to the freedom the kitchen provided. In an environment where authority and separation is enforced by armed guards and selfhood is under vigilant regulation, cooking for himself and his peers became a source of restorative connection. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918521\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918521\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57636_005_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"two guests holding plates of shrimps and grits in an apartment kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57636_005_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57636_005_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57636_005_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57636_005_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57636_005_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57636_005_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Two guests enjoying grits and shrimp prepared by Davis in his home. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After being released, Davis was unable to get hired back into the nonprofit world. That’s when he started working in construction—since, as Davis puts it, nonprofits “prefer to hire non convicts.” He maintained his obsession with cooking, though, and applied a sense of redemption towards his Sunday cooking routine.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Food for me became about honoring my family,” he says. “About giving back whatever I could.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In 2020, when the pandemic hit, Davis joined Instagram and noticed an opportunity to share his food with a wider audience. He started by cooking dinner for family, friends and neighbors, who encouraged him to expand his menu and sell his dishes. Inspired by their suggestions and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13907726/e-40-goon-with-the-spoon-bay-area-rappers-food-entrepreneurs-hustle\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the success of other homegrown, independent food entrepreneurs\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the Bay Area, Davis rolled up his sleeves and began to mess around more seriously with his side hustle. With each praised meal, he gained confidence, eventually introducing his first certified hit: the MacArthur Rib Sandwich.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A play on McDonald’s famously elusive McRib, Davis added his own touches by roasting “real meat” and incorporating better ingredients to deliver what would become a banger for his growing base of returning customers. He followed that up with an array of other in-demand sandwiches, including a cast-iron seared and baked salmon (Cajun spices, arugula, dill relish, mayo) and New York bodega-style chopped cheese (\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">ground beef, American deli cheese, chopped tomatoes, mayo and ketchup mix, sweet jalapeño)\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Davis says the pandemic’s slowdown gave him an opportunity to reconnect with how much food means to him. Since then, he’s been sharing edible comfort with his folks.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The way I’m doing this now, I can be independent,” he says. “This cooking allows me to do something I want and I’m grateful for that. It’s a release.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Catering for the Public\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Markesha Brooks is a lifelong Oakland resident who works as the head chef at Grand Lake Gardens. In her spare time, she runs her catering business, MB Soul, serving up fire plates of soul food at softball games, Southland Mall and Lake Merritt.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After meeting Davis over a decade ago, the two friends remained in touch. When he returned to Oakland on probation and eventually started his series of informal food events, he and Brooks decided to work together to leverage their mutual interest in cooking. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“He’s a foodie, I’m a foodie. We’ve actually grown really close around food,” says Brooks. “He likes to pick restaurants in different cities. We go have specific dishes that those restaurants are known for. He’s eager to learn.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With 18 years of experience, Brooks has been an ideal “coach” for Davis, critiquing his methods and offering advice on how to make adjustments. Currently, she assists Davis as a de facto sous chef whenever Davis is hired for large functions. Though he started out selling sandwiches exclusively out of his Lower Dimond apartment off MacArthur Boulevard, Davis’s business has since expanded—occasionally taking him out to Fairfield, Vallejo and even Sacramento. Bringing Brooks into the mix has allowed him to offer a more robust range of services. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the past six months, he has been hired to privately cater multiple events, including weddings and large birthday parties of more than 60 people. Brooks helps him steer the high pace of food service by handling meal prep, frying and plating, while Davis does the cooking and managing.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“He takes direction extremely well, and he knows how to take constructive criticism from me,” Brooks says about working with “Chef Jonathan,” as she calls him. “He’s creative and he has his vision. Lots of times in the kitchen, people think they can cook at home for a few people, but it’s different when you cook for the public. He’s really good at it though. He wants to get to that next level. I’m proud of his growth. I see it.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918520\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918520\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57640_007_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"a rib sandwich cut into fourths on a cutting board\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57640_007_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57640_007_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57640_007_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57640_007_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57640_007_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57640_007_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The MacArthur Rib sandwich is an ode to MacArthur Boulevard, where Davis lives. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Together, the Oakland duo is serving their community while having fun and playing to their strengths. Crowd favorites like Davis’s panko-and-eggs battered grits—which are deep fried for a crispy golden outer layer, doused in a spicy tomato-based sauce then topped off with shrimp—have resulted in them getting hired for Mardi Gras-themed parties and Southern-style cookouts all over the Bay.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Navigating Forward, New Recipes\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">According to recent \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://bjs.ojp.gov/content/pub/pdf/eprfp10.pdf\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">research conducted by the Bureau of Justice Statistics\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, around 60% of formerly incarcerated Americans are unemployed. And even for those who have secured jobs, the data shows higher rates of turnover and rehiring. These trends reveal \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.prisonpolicy.org/blog/2022/02/08/employment/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a “labor market injustice”\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and point to a harsh truth: Once you’ve been marked by the carceral system, it’s hard to get back on your feet. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://prospect.org/special-report/new-jim-crow/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Discarding former inmates as “second-class citizens” when they re-enter society\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the ravages of the prison industrial complex are undeniable. This is especially true for Black Americans, who—due to a variety of systemic, historical factors—make up a disproportionate amount of the incarcerated population in this country.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The probation shit is rough, and filling out forms for jobs as a felon is rough,” says Davis. “It’s not only related to Blackness, but also class and not having enough money for legal help.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13915489,arts_13916965,arts_13916044']The barriers preventing Davis—and many other formerly incarcerated folks—from being hired to work desirable positions are numerously stacked. The stigma around incarceration can be debilitating, offering no room for mistakes or missteps. In the Bay Area food scene, specifically, there are a handful of organizations that support aspiring foodmakers who were once incarcerated—such as \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916965/farming-hope-food-justice-non-profit-coffee-pop-up-guest-chef-mannys-sf\">Farming Hope\u003c/a> in San Francisco—but these are few and far between. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Rather than trying to navigate these difficult institutional pathways, Davis recognized the most direct road to success in the kitchen was to take initiative and do it for himself.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I want to express what I want in the kitchen,” says Davis. “I’ve bartended at Kincaid’s. The guys back there are cooking, but their dream isn’t to make 57 crab dips per day. It’s conformity. You don’t have much control and there’s a lot of monetary pressure. The guy who makes turkey legs might not want to make turkey legs. This way, I can at least have my independence.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For now, food is a side gig for Davis, but eventually, if an opportunity presents itself, he would love to do it full-time. Until then, customers can reach him via text or DM. He’s always ready to slang a batch of sandwiches or pull up for an event.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918528\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918528\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57645_013_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"Jonathan Davis holds a freshly prepared fried chicken sandwich in his hands\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57645_013_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57645_013_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57645_013_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57645_013_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57645_013_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57645_013_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Davis offers his fried chicken sandwich. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When I visited him with a small group of friends at his Oakland apartment, he hosted us with a sense of visible pride and passion for his cooking. We were in his living room, seated at his table, eating his homemade food. It’s unlike any experience I’ve had with a chef—an intimate level of trust and connection, built on the freedom of being able to move around someone’s space once invited. It became evident that his gratitude for ordinary decision making and simplicity are essential ingredients in his life.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">From a rotating panoply of freshly-made sandwiches, homestyle french fries, and of course, his famous grits and shrimp, we were fed like Bay Area royalty. The fried chicken sandwich, which was accompanied by \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">arugula, tomatoes and jalapeños on a sweet brioche bun, had a beautiful, understated crispness that exemplifies Davis’s well-executed takes on simple favorites. His love for local references—like the notorious MacArthur Rib, which uses country pork rib, Everett and Jones BBQ sauce, onions and pickles—also speak to Davis’s playfulness, adding a layer of appreciation to each flavorful bite.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It reminds me how my favorite chefs don’t measure their worth with abstract fine dining concepts or stylized presentations. Instead, they are focused on plating nourishment in the form of self care and community preservation. And sometimes, that’s shaped like a sandwich.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jdthesandman/\">JD the Sandman\u003c/a> is available for private orders and limited catering services via \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jdthesandman/\">Instagram\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">E\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>very weekday, Jonathan Davis wakes up at 6am and heads into the yawn of morning light in his construction boots. As a full-time employee of WBE Traffic Control, he operates all over the East Bay, establishing safe zones for workers to repair power lines. It’s a systematized job, filled with rigid procedures, rules, and protocols that he and his coworkers abide by to maintain public safety.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Around 5pm he returns home to a three-year-old daughter who recently started preschool. He prepares dinner, watches \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Boys\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, then repeats his regiment the following day. It’s a churning livelihood that he embraces—even on Saturdays—in order to make ends meet, a prototypically American dedication to a grind that usually denies any form of extracurricular joy. The job isn’t glamorous, he tells me, but he’s grateful for it.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s because working in construction provides the backbone of income that allows Davis to do what he actually loves the most: cooking for others. On Sundays, he busts out his favorite recipes and vends food from his home, using social media and word-of-mouth to feed his community, friends and neighbors around Oakland and beyond.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Cooking is like an artistic outlet for me,” says Davis, age 41. “I get to create things and I get to share that with my friends and family. When something doesn’t taste right, I get to improve it and make it better.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For years, Davis has been perfecting his favorite dishes. A proud Oaklander, he says he grew up with a deep appreciation of the Bay Area’s tapestry of Asian and Latinx flavors—a cultural richness that gave him the confidence to experiment with the soul food ingredients he and his family grew up eating, including shrimp and grits, salmon and fried chicken.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But he’s most known for his sandwiches—chopped cheese like you’d find in a Harlem bodega and whimsical creations like the “MacArthur Rib,” a play on the McDonald’s classic. The sandos have earned him a reputation around The Town and helped fuel a burgeoning catering business. They also inspired the chef’s nickname: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jdthesandman/\">JD the Sandman\u003c/a>.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Yet, it wasn’t a culinary institute where Davis got his game from. And it wasn’t a Michelin-star restaurant that taught him the importance of fresh, diverse ingredients and food’s ability to connect people. It was elsewhere: behind the walls of the Federal Correctional Institution in Sheridan, Oregon.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Cooking from Scratch Inside a Federal Correctional Institution\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Prison is a reality that many Californians know very little about. For those who haven’t had first-hand experience, it’s often a figment of imagination largely based on movies and television shows, where violence is typically the primary focus. Most people know even less about what happens when a person re-enters society after serving their time. Occasionally, an investigative project like “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facing.life/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Facing Life\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">” (which KQED staff writer Pendarvis Harshaw co-authored) can illuminate the complexities of life after incarceration. Otherwise, it’s a taboo, and usually avoided, subject.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Davis was no different in the way he saw prison as something intangible in his own day-to-day life. A middle-class son of college graduates, he says his own incarceration is something he felt ashamed of, particularly as a Black man.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I invalidated my parent’s efforts, especially knowing the narratives of Black families,” Davis admits. “They were involved in our lives. My parents did all this work for us, and I still ended up in prison.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918519\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918519\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57647_016_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"Jonathan Davis looks out from the balcony of his apartment next to the freeway\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57647_016_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57647_016_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57647_016_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57647_016_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57647_016_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57647_016_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jonathan Davis stands on the deck at his apartment. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A former educational nonprofit employee in Oakland, Davis never thought he’d end up behind bars. In late 2010, he lost his job due to a disagreement with the principal after a student was expelled. In Davis’s telling of it, the incident had to do with race—he was pushing back in defense of Black students. After losing his job, Davis started to hang out with a crowd of people who introduced him to “scamming.” In that moment of financial need, he saw it as a quick way to turn a profit. In his eyes, he was hustling a governmental system rather than taking from individuals. But the scheme came crashing down in 2013 when the IRS raided his home, guns drawn.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I was a halfway criminal and didn’t cross my t’s or dot my i’s,” he says. “At that point in life, my faith in myself was weaker.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Davis faced up to 20 years in prison, but was ultimately sentenced to 30 months. He wound up serving 18 of those months at federal institutions in Nevada and Oregon. As soon as he was convicted, he accepted his role in his wrongdoing and decided to move forward with his life by facing the consequences of his actions.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>While imprisoned from 2014 to 2016, Davis’s good behavior landed him in a low-security environment, where he was given certain privileges. He joined a gardening program, frequently read about cooking and met people like \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/leasdef?ref_src=twsrc%5Egoogle%7Ctwcamp%5Eserp%7Ctwgr%5Eauthor\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kasey Anderson, a Portland-based songwriter\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Despite a largely solitary prison experience, Davis discovered that food was a way for him to relate with others and represent his heritage. He began to cook for himself and his blockmates, including Anderson, who recognized his skills.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It’s tough to know who’s a good cook when you’re inside,” Anderson says. “Everyone’s all working with the same ingredients from commissary. You can see who is innovative and using flavors in ways others aren’t. JD would get creative with his food, and when he had a chance to work with [more ingredients], he could really express himself creatively through food. It’s cool to me that it became something for him that can exist outside. A lot of people do things inside to get by, but then go out and do what they need to go paycheck to paycheck. He isn’t limiting himself in that sense.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Davis explains how, at times, he had to get extra creative with the limited ingredients and lack of traditional cooking equipment available to him in prison.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“There was a sweat lodge, and we cooked a piece of pork in there [one time],” he recalls. “[Another time] we made pizzas with tortillas and barbecue sauce. That was my idea. During my time, I just made friends with the kitchen guys, and that helped to keep my sanity.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Peanut butter was one of the most popular, versatile ingredients in prison—Davis recalls drawing inspiration from a peanut butter stew he’d once seen a Cameroonian immigrant whip up in his neighborhood, years prior. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Despite having almost no experience working inside a formal restaurant—though he’d once bartended at Kincaid’s in Jack London Square—Davis was naturally drawn to the freedom the kitchen provided. In an environment where authority and separation is enforced by armed guards and selfhood is under vigilant regulation, cooking for himself and his peers became a source of restorative connection. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918521\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918521\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57636_005_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"two guests holding plates of shrimps and grits in an apartment kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57636_005_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57636_005_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57636_005_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57636_005_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57636_005_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57636_005_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Two guests enjoying grits and shrimp prepared by Davis in his home. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After being released, Davis was unable to get hired back into the nonprofit world. That’s when he started working in construction—since, as Davis puts it, nonprofits “prefer to hire non convicts.” He maintained his obsession with cooking, though, and applied a sense of redemption towards his Sunday cooking routine.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Food for me became about honoring my family,” he says. “About giving back whatever I could.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In 2020, when the pandemic hit, Davis joined Instagram and noticed an opportunity to share his food with a wider audience. He started by cooking dinner for family, friends and neighbors, who encouraged him to expand his menu and sell his dishes. Inspired by their suggestions and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13907726/e-40-goon-with-the-spoon-bay-area-rappers-food-entrepreneurs-hustle\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the success of other homegrown, independent food entrepreneurs\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the Bay Area, Davis rolled up his sleeves and began to mess around more seriously with his side hustle. With each praised meal, he gained confidence, eventually introducing his first certified hit: the MacArthur Rib Sandwich.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A play on McDonald’s famously elusive McRib, Davis added his own touches by roasting “real meat” and incorporating better ingredients to deliver what would become a banger for his growing base of returning customers. He followed that up with an array of other in-demand sandwiches, including a cast-iron seared and baked salmon (Cajun spices, arugula, dill relish, mayo) and New York bodega-style chopped cheese (\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">ground beef, American deli cheese, chopped tomatoes, mayo and ketchup mix, sweet jalapeño)\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Davis says the pandemic’s slowdown gave him an opportunity to reconnect with how much food means to him. Since then, he’s been sharing edible comfort with his folks.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The way I’m doing this now, I can be independent,” he says. “This cooking allows me to do something I want and I’m grateful for that. It’s a release.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Catering for the Public\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Markesha Brooks is a lifelong Oakland resident who works as the head chef at Grand Lake Gardens. In her spare time, she runs her catering business, MB Soul, serving up fire plates of soul food at softball games, Southland Mall and Lake Merritt.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After meeting Davis over a decade ago, the two friends remained in touch. When he returned to Oakland on probation and eventually started his series of informal food events, he and Brooks decided to work together to leverage their mutual interest in cooking. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“He’s a foodie, I’m a foodie. We’ve actually grown really close around food,” says Brooks. “He likes to pick restaurants in different cities. We go have specific dishes that those restaurants are known for. He’s eager to learn.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With 18 years of experience, Brooks has been an ideal “coach” for Davis, critiquing his methods and offering advice on how to make adjustments. Currently, she assists Davis as a de facto sous chef whenever Davis is hired for large functions. Though he started out selling sandwiches exclusively out of his Lower Dimond apartment off MacArthur Boulevard, Davis’s business has since expanded—occasionally taking him out to Fairfield, Vallejo and even Sacramento. Bringing Brooks into the mix has allowed him to offer a more robust range of services. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the past six months, he has been hired to privately cater multiple events, including weddings and large birthday parties of more than 60 people. Brooks helps him steer the high pace of food service by handling meal prep, frying and plating, while Davis does the cooking and managing.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“He takes direction extremely well, and he knows how to take constructive criticism from me,” Brooks says about working with “Chef Jonathan,” as she calls him. “He’s creative and he has his vision. Lots of times in the kitchen, people think they can cook at home for a few people, but it’s different when you cook for the public. He’s really good at it though. He wants to get to that next level. I’m proud of his growth. I see it.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918520\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918520\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57640_007_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"a rib sandwich cut into fourths on a cutting board\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57640_007_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57640_007_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57640_007_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57640_007_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57640_007_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57640_007_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The MacArthur Rib sandwich is an ode to MacArthur Boulevard, where Davis lives. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Together, the Oakland duo is serving their community while having fun and playing to their strengths. Crowd favorites like Davis’s panko-and-eggs battered grits—which are deep fried for a crispy golden outer layer, doused in a spicy tomato-based sauce then topped off with shrimp—have resulted in them getting hired for Mardi Gras-themed parties and Southern-style cookouts all over the Bay.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Navigating Forward, New Recipes\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">According to recent \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://bjs.ojp.gov/content/pub/pdf/eprfp10.pdf\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">research conducted by the Bureau of Justice Statistics\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, around 60% of formerly incarcerated Americans are unemployed. And even for those who have secured jobs, the data shows higher rates of turnover and rehiring. These trends reveal \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.prisonpolicy.org/blog/2022/02/08/employment/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a “labor market injustice”\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and point to a harsh truth: Once you’ve been marked by the carceral system, it’s hard to get back on your feet. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://prospect.org/special-report/new-jim-crow/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Discarding former inmates as “second-class citizens” when they re-enter society\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the ravages of the prison industrial complex are undeniable. This is especially true for Black Americans, who—due to a variety of systemic, historical factors—make up a disproportionate amount of the incarcerated population in this country.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The probation shit is rough, and filling out forms for jobs as a felon is rough,” says Davis. “It’s not only related to Blackness, but also class and not having enough money for legal help.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>The barriers preventing Davis—and many other formerly incarcerated folks—from being hired to work desirable positions are numerously stacked. The stigma around incarceration can be debilitating, offering no room for mistakes or missteps. In the Bay Area food scene, specifically, there are a handful of organizations that support aspiring foodmakers who were once incarcerated—such as \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916965/farming-hope-food-justice-non-profit-coffee-pop-up-guest-chef-mannys-sf\">Farming Hope\u003c/a> in San Francisco—but these are few and far between. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Rather than trying to navigate these difficult institutional pathways, Davis recognized the most direct road to success in the kitchen was to take initiative and do it for himself.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I want to express what I want in the kitchen,” says Davis. “I’ve bartended at Kincaid’s. The guys back there are cooking, but their dream isn’t to make 57 crab dips per day. It’s conformity. You don’t have much control and there’s a lot of monetary pressure. The guy who makes turkey legs might not want to make turkey legs. This way, I can at least have my independence.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For now, food is a side gig for Davis, but eventually, if an opportunity presents itself, he would love to do it full-time. Until then, customers can reach him via text or DM. He’s always ready to slang a batch of sandwiches or pull up for an event.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918528\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918528\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57645_013_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"Jonathan Davis holds a freshly prepared fried chicken sandwich in his hands\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57645_013_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57645_013_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57645_013_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57645_013_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57645_013_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/RS57645_013_KQEDArts_FoodJonathanDavis_08082022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Davis offers his fried chicken sandwich. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When I visited him with a small group of friends at his Oakland apartment, he hosted us with a sense of visible pride and passion for his cooking. We were in his living room, seated at his table, eating his homemade food. It’s unlike any experience I’ve had with a chef—an intimate level of trust and connection, built on the freedom of being able to move around someone’s space once invited. It became evident that his gratitude for ordinary decision making and simplicity are essential ingredients in his life.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">From a rotating panoply of freshly-made sandwiches, homestyle french fries, and of course, his famous grits and shrimp, we were fed like Bay Area royalty. The fried chicken sandwich, which was accompanied by \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">arugula, tomatoes and jalapeños on a sweet brioche bun, had a beautiful, understated crispness that exemplifies Davis’s well-executed takes on simple favorites. His love for local references—like the notorious MacArthur Rib, which uses country pork rib, Everett and Jones BBQ sauce, onions and pickles—also speak to Davis’s playfulness, adding a layer of appreciation to each flavorful bite.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It reminds me how my favorite chefs don’t measure their worth with abstract fine dining concepts or stylized presentations. Instead, they are focused on plating nourishment in the form of self care and community preservation. And sometimes, that’s shaped like a sandwich.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jdthesandman/\">JD the Sandman\u003c/a> is available for private orders and limited catering services via \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jdthesandman/\">Instagram\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "This Fall Marks the Return of the In-Person Food Festival",
"headTitle": "This Fall Marks the Return of the In-Person Food Festival | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/fallarts2022\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Find more of KQED’s picks for the best Fall 2022 events here\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the food enthusiast, fall in the Bay Area means bacon-wrapped hot dogs, pumpkin pie eating contests and ungodly quantities of garlic noodles scarfed out of a little paper tray. In other words, it’s peak food festival season—or at least it was until the past two years, when COVID safety concerns cancelled most of these gatherings outright and forced others to shrink themselves down into Zoom- and takeout-friendly form.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a sign of how far we’ve come, then, that most of the biggest and most beloved fall food festivals and other food-related events are back in full force—and fully in person—this year. Make no mistake: We’re still in a pandemic, and it’s important to be mindful of other festival-goers’ safety and comfort level. (Don’t let anyone shame you for wearing a mask!) But if you’ve been looking forward to standing in a line with a couple dozen other lumpia lovers or vegan ice cream aficionados, we’ve got some great options for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918351\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1951px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918351\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9.jpg\" alt=\"A big aluminum tray of Greek pastitsio, the top cooked to golden brown.\" width=\"1951\" height=\"1063\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9.jpg 1951w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-800x436.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-1020x556.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-160x87.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-768x418.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-1536x837.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-1920x1046.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1951px) 100vw, 1951px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Big trays of bubbling-hot, golden-brown pastitsio are one of the savory attractions at the annual Belmont Greek Festival. \u003ccite>(Emmy Denton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.belmontgreekfestival.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Belmont Greek Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Church of the Holy Cross, Belmont\u003cbr>\nSept. 3–4, noon–10pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michelin-starred restaurants are fine and all, but real connoisseurs of cuisine know that some of the most memorable eating happens not on white tablecloth but at the church (or mosque or temple) festival—the kind of paper-plate, bring-your-own-Tupperware affair where Uncle and Grandma trot out their most sacred family recipes. Hence the enduring popularity of the Belmont Greek Festival, which this year celebrates both its 50th anniversary and its first year back in person since the start of the pandemic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hosted by the Church of the Holy Cross, the fully volunteer-staffed festival is returning with a full slate of live music and traditional dancing (“\u003ca href=\"https://fb.watch/eXDNM67P4s/\">Opa!\u003c/a>”), but like any church festival worth its salt, food will be front and center—big, gut-busting plates of spanakopita, gyros and lasagna-like beef pastitsio, which visitors can enjoy on the church’s outdoor “platia,” made to resemble a bustling village square in Greece. Be sure to save room for dessert: It’d be a shame to leave without a taste of baklava or, the crowning glory of any big Greek celebration, the honey-drenched fried dough balls known as loukoumades. —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918354\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918354\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-scaled.jpg\" alt='A man and woman in face masks squirt sauce on a paper tray of fried cauliflower. Their shirts read \"Plant N Soul.\"' width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Plant N Soul staff squirt sauce onto fried cauliflower. The vegan pizza pop-up will be one of more than 50 vendors at this year’s Bizerkeley vegan food festival. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Bizerkeley Food Festival)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thebizerkeleyvegan.com/foodfest\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Bizerkeley Food Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>2727 Milvia Street, Berkeley\u003cbr>\nSept. 4, 11am–5pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Erika Hazel \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13915889/berkeley-vegan-food-festival-bizerkeley-vegan\">launched the Bizerkeley Food Festival\u003c/a>, she wanted to make people more aware of just how diverse the Bay Area’s vegan food scene is—it’s not just “rabbit food,” after all. This Labor Day weekend, she’s continuing that mission with an event that will feature over 50 vegan vendors—more than double its 2021 debut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The purpose of the Bizerkeley Food Festival is to promote and uplift small businesses, POC businesses and women-owned businesses that are 100% plant-based/vegan while raising necessary funds for the Berkeley municipal animal shelter,” Hazel says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The community-centered event has quickly become the premier vegan festival in the Bay. Held in the Sports Basement parking lot, this year’s edition will feature local favorites like \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916044/sucka-free-soul-the-vegan-hood-chefs-honor-southern-heritage-with-a-frisco-twist\">Vegan Hood Chefs\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kubenicecream/?hl=en\">Kubé Nice Cream\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"https://thebolditalic.com/this-woman-owned-business-is-introducing-organic-beverages-to-a-food-desert-in-richmond-7b8ce3d8243\">Liquified Juicery\u003c/a> serving a wide array of vegan treats—everything from jambalaya and barbecue sliders to full-fat coconut ice cream. All food and beverages will be sold a la carte. As Hazel notes, a portion of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/2022-bizerkeley-food-festival-tickets-323004123027\">ticket proceeds\u003c/a> will benefit the \u003ca href=\"https://friendsofbacs.org/\">Friends of Berkeley Animal Care Services\u003c/a>. —\u003cem>A.C.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900324\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900324\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Black and white author headshot for Bryant Terry, posing in sunglasses.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-2048x2048.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bryant Terry wants to provide mentorship opportunities for aspiring BIPOC food creatives. That’s the inspiration behind the Black Food Summit, which he’s organizing in collaboration with the Museum of the African Diaspora. \u003ccite>(Adrian Octavius Walker)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.moadsf.org/event/chef-in-residence-bryant-terry-presents-black-food-summit\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Black Food Summit\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Museum of the African Diaspora, San Francisco; TomKat Ranch, Pescadero\u003cbr>\nSept. 9–10\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Bryant Terry started 4 Color Books, his \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13900311/bryant-terry-four-color-books-imprint-food-media-diversity\">new imprint\u003c/a> that’s focused on BIPOC artists, writers and chefs, the Oakland-based chef and food activist wanted to help create an ecosystem in which Black and other BIPOC creatives would be able to thrive. Where were all of the talented Black cookbook authors, food stylists and food photographers, and why weren’t they landing the most coveted gigs from the prestige magazines and publishing houses? Were they getting the mentorship opportunities they needed?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now Terry is using his platform as \u003ca href=\"https://www.moadsf.org/\">MoAD’s\u003c/a> chef-in-residence to help grow that pipeline: In September, he’ll host a two-day \u003ca href=\"https://www.moadsf.org/event/chef-in-residence-bryant-terry-presents-black-food-summit\">Black Food Summit\u003c/a> that will inspire—and teach practical skills to—anyone looking to publish a cookbook or carve out a career in food media. The summit will function, among other things, as one of the food world’s most exciting gatherings of Black talent, with nationally prominent writers like \u003ca href=\"http://www.nicoleataylor.com/\">Nicole Taylor\u003c/a> (of the Juneteenth cookbook \u003cem>Watermelon & Red Birds\u003c/em>) and \u003ca href=\"https://osayiendolyn.com/\">Osayi Endolyn\u003c/a> (the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Food & Wine\u003c/em> and more) on hand for a full day of panel discussions on topics such as storytelling, design and how to navigate the publishing world. On the second day, the summit will move to Pescadero’s \u003ca href=\"https://tomkatranch.org/\">TomKat Ranch\u003c/a> for a day of restful rejuvenation and hands-on activities (some of which may involve horses).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It all culminates with a big, celebratory dinner out on the ranch, cooked by some of the Bay Area’s most accomplished chefs, including Matt Horn (Horn BBQ) and Fernay McPherson (Minnie Bells). Participants can buy a ticket for just one day or for the whole two-day summit. There’s also a livestream option for the Friday events at MoAD. —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918355\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2111px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918355\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of napa cabbage kimchi.\" width=\"2111\" height=\"1408\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189.jpg 2111w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-1920x1281.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2111px) 100vw, 2111px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This year’s Chuseok Festival will celebrate traditional Korean foods such as kimchi, but it’ll also offer a wide range of fusion and Korean American diasporic dishes. \u003ccite>(Mark Shigenaga)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/4th-annual-bay-area-chuseok-festival-tickets-355585554967\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Chuseok Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Presidio Main Parade Lawn, San Francisco\u003cbr>\nSept. 10, 11am–5pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ever since the event’s splashy 2019 debut, the organizers of the Bay Area Chuseok Festival have been chomping at the bit to bring the Korean harvest festival back to its in-person, deliciously food-focused glory after a couple of Zoom-centric editions during the peak of the pandemic. Eun-Joo Chang of San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"https://koreancentersf.org/\">Korean Center, Inc.\u003c/a>, which organizes the event, describes Chuseok as the Korean equivalent of Thanksgiving. Hosted at the Presidio, this year’s festival is expected to be bigger and better than ever—a larger outdoor space; more family-friendly entertainment, from K-pop to traditional crafts; and, of course, a whole host of food and beverage vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not all of the food will be strictly Korean, though most of the featured businesses have at least one Korean chef or co-owner. So, while there will be traditional items such as Korean barbecue and \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/drinks/2017/2/20/14645442/makgeolli-korean-rice-wine\">makgeolli\u003c/a>, there also might be bulgogi-topped pizza and Korean-Mexican fusion. Oakland’s Noodle Belly will be on hand serving its signature garlic noodles; SF-based Dokkabier will be on hand to pour its lineup of Asian-inspired microbrews.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who like to get their hands dirty, San Francisco’s Korean consulate and the Korean food conglomerate and kimchi brand Jong Ga Foods will co-host K-Food, an event-within-event happening at the same time. The centerpiece: a hands-on cooking demonstration in which participants make their own ssamjang, the spicy-sweet condiment traditionally eaten with Korean barbecue. —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918362\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1440px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918362\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq.jpg\" alt=\"Four oysters, elaborately topped with shrimp, cheese and spices, on a grill.\" width=\"1440\" height=\"1800\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq.jpg 1440w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-1229x1536.jpg 1229w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1440px) 100vw, 1440px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Saucey Oysters & BBQ specializes in elaborately topped grilled oysters. The Sacramento-based pop-up will be one of the 30-plus food vendors on hand at the California Soul Food Cookout. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Saucey Oysters & BBQ)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.californiasoulfoodcookoutandfestival.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">California Soul Food Cookout\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Alameda County Fairgrounds, Pleasanton\u003cbr>\nSept. 17–18, 1–11pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For concert goers who love soul food, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/calisoulfoodfest/?hl=en\">California Soul Food Cookout & Festival\u003c/a> promises the best of both worlds. Going on its 12th year, the two-day event features a mix of family activities, gospel music, R&B, food trucks and comedy—with a portion of the proceeds going towards Bay Area charities to aid houseless individuals and domestic violence victims.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the food side, the festival’s 2022 edition will be hosted by Chef Milly, known for his stints as a contestant on \u003cem>Hell’s Kitchen\u003c/em>—and for dishes like his signature Crabby Cheese Fries (topped with lump crab meat and Old Bay seasoning). Other vendors will include Hayward-based Filipino fusion pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mekeni_kapampangankami/\">Mekeni’s Kitchen\u003c/a>, Sacramento-based grilled oyster specialist \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sauceyoysters_bbq/?hl=en\">Saucey Oysters & BBQ\u003c/a> and the Filipino barbecue stand \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/gim.belly/?hl=en\">Gim Belly\u003c/a>. The 30-plus diverse, mostly POC food makers were chosen by the organizers to represent the Bay Area’s cultural vibrancy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you come to California Soul for the food, you’ll stay for the grooves: Musical headliners include gospel and R&B stars like Musiq Soulchild, Angie Stone, Mario Hodge and Fred Hammond. There will also be a job fair and career expo sponsored by the Oakland African American Chamber of Commerce and Silicon Valley Black Chamber of Commerce. —\u003cem>A.C.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918364\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918364\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes.jpg\" alt=\"A smiling woman shows off a dish of sautéed mushrooms.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2322\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-800x968.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-1020x1234.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-160x194.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-768x929.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-1270x1536.jpg 1270w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-1693x2048.jpg 1693w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">During her Shifting the Lens residency, Chef Shenarri Freeman will serve an elaborate tasting menu of vegan soul food dishes. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of J Vineyards & Winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.exploretock.com/jvineyardswinery/experience/340529/shifting-the-lens-chef-shenarri-freeman\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Shifting the Lens with Chef Shenarri Freeman\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>J Vineyards & Winery, Healdsburg\u003cbr>\nSept. 29–Oct. 9\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preeti Mistry was tired of hearing people say there wasn’t any point in pairing wine with Indian food—and that the richly spiced foods found throughout, say, South Asia, West Africa or the Caribbean were best just washed down with beer. So, the chef decided to change the conversation. \u003ca href=\"https://www.jwine.com/shifting-the-lens.html\">Shifting the Lens\u003c/a>, Mistry’s summer-long residency series J Winery in Healdsburg, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13917165/preeti-mistry-wants-to-show-that-wine-pairing-isnt-just-for-white-food\">reexamines wine pairing in the context of cuisines that are often excluded from the fine dining discourse\u003c/a> here in the United States: Chinese food, Indian food, soul food. Each residency features a talented BIPOC woman guest chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starting Sept. 29, Shifting the Lens will close out its first year with a residency by Shenarri “Greens” Freeman, a New York City-based wellness advocate and the chef of the vegan soul food restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/cadence.newyork/?hl=en\">Cadence\u003c/a>. Over the course of two weeks, Thursday to Sunday, guests can book a two-hour, five-plus-course, fully plant-based tasting menu ($200) that comes with a thoughtful wine pairing for each dish. For those who want a little extra face time with the chef, a special VIP dinner on Oct. 1 will include a Q&A session. —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918360\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918360\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs.jpg\" alt=\"A cup of halo halo, with layers of bright purple ube ice cream, flan and sweet beans.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1068\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs.jpg 1600w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-768x513.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Turontastic’s halo-halo, from last year’s edition of Undiscovered SF. \u003ccite>(Photography by Albert Law: www.porkbellystudio.com)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.undiscoveredsf.com/#tickets\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Undiscovered SF Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>SOMA Pilipinas, San Francisco\u003cbr>\nOct. 22, noon–6pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year, the Undiscovered SF Festival asks the age-old question: If San Francisco had its very own Filipino theme park, what would that look like? Would mobile DJ crews usher each visitor in through ube-purple turnstiles? Would there be a lumpia-themed rollercoaster or a karaoke-themed merry-go-round? Most importantly: What would there be to eat?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Undiscovered SF 2022 will offer visitors the opportunity to see one possible vision for such a theme park come to life—though rollercoaster enthusiasts might have to wait for a future edition. Though the event’s earliest incarnations were set up as a \u003ca href=\"https://digital.modernluxury.com/publication/?m=3609&i=453302&p=84&ver=html5\">Filipino night market\u003c/a>, during the pandemic Undiscovered SF evolved into a daytime event spread across multiple indoor and outdoor venues in the SOMA Pilipinas cultural district. This year’s version promises to be the largest one yet, with a rollicking main stage set up at \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/sf/article/S-F-s-newest-green-space-just-opened-in-SoMa-16969411.php\">Parks at 5M\u003c/a>, the neighborhood’s brand new outdoor park; a kaleidoscope of crafts and streetwear vendors; art exhibitions; and more than 20 food vendors (including local legends like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thelumpiacompany/\">Lumpia Company\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thesarapshop/\">Sarap Shop\u003c/a>). —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918350\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918350\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale.jpg\" alt=\"A marigold-covered altar for Día de los Muertos on a street corner in Fruitvale.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A marigold-covered altar for the ancestors at Oakland’s Día de los Muertos festival in Fruitvale. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of the Unity Council)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://diaoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Día de los Muertos Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Fruitvale District, Oakland\u003cbr>\nOct. 30, 10am–5pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can’t celebrate fall in the Bay Area without attending a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/diaoakland/?hl=en\">Día de los Muertos event\u003c/a>—and, if you’re around Oakland, there’s no better place to do it than in Fruitvale. The cultural gathering has become one of the highlights of October, signaling the peak of “spooky szn,” autumnal changes and, of course, festival goodies. Now in its 27th year, Fruitvale’s Día de los Muertos event will return fully in person this Oct. 30 with a day of Aztec dancing, altar exhibits, live music and a more-than-you-can-eat offering of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the \u003ca href=\"https://unitycouncil.org/program/diaoakland/\">Oakland Unity Council\u003c/a>, which organizes the event, “The festival will resume in-person activities, highlighting the ofrendas, Danza Azteca, and low-riders which are all vital elements of the celebration. Our goal for the 2022 festival is to create a physical space where people can safely gather and hone in art and culture as tools for community healing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a themed-focus on honoring essential workers, this year’s celebration is meant to express a strong sense of gratitude to the food workers, cooks and purveyors of Latinx-focused meals. For the first time since the start of the pandemic, the street vendors that the Día event is known for will be back in full force. From street-style elote dripping with sour cream, cheese and powdered chile, to classic Fruitvale staples like tacos, burritos and tortas, you can’t go wrong with a celebratory afternoon of comida in one of the Bay Area’s most vibrant communities. —\u003cem>A.C.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "’Tis the season for outdoor lumpia, loukoumades and garlic noodles, served in a paper tray.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/fallarts2022\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Find more of KQED’s picks for the best Fall 2022 events here\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the food enthusiast, fall in the Bay Area means bacon-wrapped hot dogs, pumpkin pie eating contests and ungodly quantities of garlic noodles scarfed out of a little paper tray. In other words, it’s peak food festival season—or at least it was until the past two years, when COVID safety concerns cancelled most of these gatherings outright and forced others to shrink themselves down into Zoom- and takeout-friendly form.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a sign of how far we’ve come, then, that most of the biggest and most beloved fall food festivals and other food-related events are back in full force—and fully in person—this year. Make no mistake: We’re still in a pandemic, and it’s important to be mindful of other festival-goers’ safety and comfort level. (Don’t let anyone shame you for wearing a mask!) But if you’ve been looking forward to standing in a line with a couple dozen other lumpia lovers or vegan ice cream aficionados, we’ve got some great options for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918351\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1951px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918351\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9.jpg\" alt=\"A big aluminum tray of Greek pastitsio, the top cooked to golden brown.\" width=\"1951\" height=\"1063\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9.jpg 1951w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-800x436.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-1020x556.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-160x87.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-768x418.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-1536x837.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Pastitsio-2022-cooked-pan-CROPPED-BD864E13-48D0-415F-BB7B-C1436AEC7DA9-1920x1046.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1951px) 100vw, 1951px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Big trays of bubbling-hot, golden-brown pastitsio are one of the savory attractions at the annual Belmont Greek Festival. \u003ccite>(Emmy Denton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.belmontgreekfestival.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Belmont Greek Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Church of the Holy Cross, Belmont\u003cbr>\nSept. 3–4, noon–10pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michelin-starred restaurants are fine and all, but real connoisseurs of cuisine know that some of the most memorable eating happens not on white tablecloth but at the church (or mosque or temple) festival—the kind of paper-plate, bring-your-own-Tupperware affair where Uncle and Grandma trot out their most sacred family recipes. Hence the enduring popularity of the Belmont Greek Festival, which this year celebrates both its 50th anniversary and its first year back in person since the start of the pandemic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hosted by the Church of the Holy Cross, the fully volunteer-staffed festival is returning with a full slate of live music and traditional dancing (“\u003ca href=\"https://fb.watch/eXDNM67P4s/\">Opa!\u003c/a>”), but like any church festival worth its salt, food will be front and center—big, gut-busting plates of spanakopita, gyros and lasagna-like beef pastitsio, which visitors can enjoy on the church’s outdoor “platia,” made to resemble a bustling village square in Greece. Be sure to save room for dessert: It’d be a shame to leave without a taste of baklava or, the crowning glory of any big Greek celebration, the honey-drenched fried dough balls known as loukoumades. —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918354\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918354\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-scaled.jpg\" alt='A man and woman in face masks squirt sauce on a paper tray of fried cauliflower. Their shirts read \"Plant N Soul.\"' width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/KCB01625-2-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Plant N Soul staff squirt sauce onto fried cauliflower. The vegan pizza pop-up will be one of more than 50 vendors at this year’s Bizerkeley vegan food festival. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Bizerkeley Food Festival)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thebizerkeleyvegan.com/foodfest\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Bizerkeley Food Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>2727 Milvia Street, Berkeley\u003cbr>\nSept. 4, 11am–5pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Erika Hazel \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13915889/berkeley-vegan-food-festival-bizerkeley-vegan\">launched the Bizerkeley Food Festival\u003c/a>, she wanted to make people more aware of just how diverse the Bay Area’s vegan food scene is—it’s not just “rabbit food,” after all. This Labor Day weekend, she’s continuing that mission with an event that will feature over 50 vegan vendors—more than double its 2021 debut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The purpose of the Bizerkeley Food Festival is to promote and uplift small businesses, POC businesses and women-owned businesses that are 100% plant-based/vegan while raising necessary funds for the Berkeley municipal animal shelter,” Hazel says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The community-centered event has quickly become the premier vegan festival in the Bay. Held in the Sports Basement parking lot, this year’s edition will feature local favorites like \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916044/sucka-free-soul-the-vegan-hood-chefs-honor-southern-heritage-with-a-frisco-twist\">Vegan Hood Chefs\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kubenicecream/?hl=en\">Kubé Nice Cream\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"https://thebolditalic.com/this-woman-owned-business-is-introducing-organic-beverages-to-a-food-desert-in-richmond-7b8ce3d8243\">Liquified Juicery\u003c/a> serving a wide array of vegan treats—everything from jambalaya and barbecue sliders to full-fat coconut ice cream. All food and beverages will be sold a la carte. As Hazel notes, a portion of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/2022-bizerkeley-food-festival-tickets-323004123027\">ticket proceeds\u003c/a> will benefit the \u003ca href=\"https://friendsofbacs.org/\">Friends of Berkeley Animal Care Services\u003c/a>. —\u003cem>A.C.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13900324\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13900324\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Black and white author headshot for Bryant Terry, posing in sunglasses.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-2048x2048.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/07/Bryant-Terry_bw-portrait-AOW-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bryant Terry wants to provide mentorship opportunities for aspiring BIPOC food creatives. That’s the inspiration behind the Black Food Summit, which he’s organizing in collaboration with the Museum of the African Diaspora. \u003ccite>(Adrian Octavius Walker)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.moadsf.org/event/chef-in-residence-bryant-terry-presents-black-food-summit\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Black Food Summit\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Museum of the African Diaspora, San Francisco; TomKat Ranch, Pescadero\u003cbr>\nSept. 9–10\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Bryant Terry started 4 Color Books, his \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13900311/bryant-terry-four-color-books-imprint-food-media-diversity\">new imprint\u003c/a> that’s focused on BIPOC artists, writers and chefs, the Oakland-based chef and food activist wanted to help create an ecosystem in which Black and other BIPOC creatives would be able to thrive. Where were all of the talented Black cookbook authors, food stylists and food photographers, and why weren’t they landing the most coveted gigs from the prestige magazines and publishing houses? Were they getting the mentorship opportunities they needed?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now Terry is using his platform as \u003ca href=\"https://www.moadsf.org/\">MoAD’s\u003c/a> chef-in-residence to help grow that pipeline: In September, he’ll host a two-day \u003ca href=\"https://www.moadsf.org/event/chef-in-residence-bryant-terry-presents-black-food-summit\">Black Food Summit\u003c/a> that will inspire—and teach practical skills to—anyone looking to publish a cookbook or carve out a career in food media. The summit will function, among other things, as one of the food world’s most exciting gatherings of Black talent, with nationally prominent writers like \u003ca href=\"http://www.nicoleataylor.com/\">Nicole Taylor\u003c/a> (of the Juneteenth cookbook \u003cem>Watermelon & Red Birds\u003c/em>) and \u003ca href=\"https://osayiendolyn.com/\">Osayi Endolyn\u003c/a> (the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Food & Wine\u003c/em> and more) on hand for a full day of panel discussions on topics such as storytelling, design and how to navigate the publishing world. On the second day, the summit will move to Pescadero’s \u003ca href=\"https://tomkatranch.org/\">TomKat Ranch\u003c/a> for a day of restful rejuvenation and hands-on activities (some of which may involve horses).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It all culminates with a big, celebratory dinner out on the ranch, cooked by some of the Bay Area’s most accomplished chefs, including Matt Horn (Horn BBQ) and Fernay McPherson (Minnie Bells). Participants can buy a ticket for just one day or for the whole two-day summit. There’s also a livestream option for the Friday events at MoAD. —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918355\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2111px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918355\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of napa cabbage kimchi.\" width=\"2111\" height=\"1408\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189.jpg 2111w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/038_1st-Annual-Chuseok-Festival-SELECTS-06189-1920x1281.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2111px) 100vw, 2111px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This year’s Chuseok Festival will celebrate traditional Korean foods such as kimchi, but it’ll also offer a wide range of fusion and Korean American diasporic dishes. \u003ccite>(Mark Shigenaga)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/4th-annual-bay-area-chuseok-festival-tickets-355585554967\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Chuseok Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Presidio Main Parade Lawn, San Francisco\u003cbr>\nSept. 10, 11am–5pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ever since the event’s splashy 2019 debut, the organizers of the Bay Area Chuseok Festival have been chomping at the bit to bring the Korean harvest festival back to its in-person, deliciously food-focused glory after a couple of Zoom-centric editions during the peak of the pandemic. Eun-Joo Chang of San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"https://koreancentersf.org/\">Korean Center, Inc.\u003c/a>, which organizes the event, describes Chuseok as the Korean equivalent of Thanksgiving. Hosted at the Presidio, this year’s festival is expected to be bigger and better than ever—a larger outdoor space; more family-friendly entertainment, from K-pop to traditional crafts; and, of course, a whole host of food and beverage vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not all of the food will be strictly Korean, though most of the featured businesses have at least one Korean chef or co-owner. So, while there will be traditional items such as Korean barbecue and \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/drinks/2017/2/20/14645442/makgeolli-korean-rice-wine\">makgeolli\u003c/a>, there also might be bulgogi-topped pizza and Korean-Mexican fusion. Oakland’s Noodle Belly will be on hand serving its signature garlic noodles; SF-based Dokkabier will be on hand to pour its lineup of Asian-inspired microbrews.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who like to get their hands dirty, San Francisco’s Korean consulate and the Korean food conglomerate and kimchi brand Jong Ga Foods will co-host K-Food, an event-within-event happening at the same time. The centerpiece: a hands-on cooking demonstration in which participants make their own ssamjang, the spicy-sweet condiment traditionally eaten with Korean barbecue. —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918362\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1440px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918362\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq.jpg\" alt=\"Four oysters, elaborately topped with shrimp, cheese and spices, on a grill.\" width=\"1440\" height=\"1800\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq.jpg 1440w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/calisoulfood_saucey-oysters-bbq-1229x1536.jpg 1229w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1440px) 100vw, 1440px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Saucey Oysters & BBQ specializes in elaborately topped grilled oysters. The Sacramento-based pop-up will be one of the 30-plus food vendors on hand at the California Soul Food Cookout. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Saucey Oysters & BBQ)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.californiasoulfoodcookoutandfestival.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">California Soul Food Cookout\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Alameda County Fairgrounds, Pleasanton\u003cbr>\nSept. 17–18, 1–11pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For concert goers who love soul food, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/calisoulfoodfest/?hl=en\">California Soul Food Cookout & Festival\u003c/a> promises the best of both worlds. Going on its 12th year, the two-day event features a mix of family activities, gospel music, R&B, food trucks and comedy—with a portion of the proceeds going towards Bay Area charities to aid houseless individuals and domestic violence victims.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the food side, the festival’s 2022 edition will be hosted by Chef Milly, known for his stints as a contestant on \u003cem>Hell’s Kitchen\u003c/em>—and for dishes like his signature Crabby Cheese Fries (topped with lump crab meat and Old Bay seasoning). Other vendors will include Hayward-based Filipino fusion pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mekeni_kapampangankami/\">Mekeni’s Kitchen\u003c/a>, Sacramento-based grilled oyster specialist \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sauceyoysters_bbq/?hl=en\">Saucey Oysters & BBQ\u003c/a> and the Filipino barbecue stand \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/gim.belly/?hl=en\">Gim Belly\u003c/a>. The 30-plus diverse, mostly POC food makers were chosen by the organizers to represent the Bay Area’s cultural vibrancy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you come to California Soul for the food, you’ll stay for the grooves: Musical headliners include gospel and R&B stars like Musiq Soulchild, Angie Stone, Mario Hodge and Fred Hammond. There will also be a job fair and career expo sponsored by the Oakland African American Chamber of Commerce and Silicon Valley Black Chamber of Commerce. —\u003cem>A.C.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918364\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918364\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes.jpg\" alt=\"A smiling woman shows off a dish of sautéed mushrooms.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2322\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-800x968.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-1020x1234.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-160x194.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-768x929.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-1270x1536.jpg 1270w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/STL_Shenarri_Freeman_HighRes-1693x2048.jpg 1693w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">During her Shifting the Lens residency, Chef Shenarri Freeman will serve an elaborate tasting menu of vegan soul food dishes. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of J Vineyards & Winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.exploretock.com/jvineyardswinery/experience/340529/shifting-the-lens-chef-shenarri-freeman\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Shifting the Lens with Chef Shenarri Freeman\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>J Vineyards & Winery, Healdsburg\u003cbr>\nSept. 29–Oct. 9\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preeti Mistry was tired of hearing people say there wasn’t any point in pairing wine with Indian food—and that the richly spiced foods found throughout, say, South Asia, West Africa or the Caribbean were best just washed down with beer. So, the chef decided to change the conversation. \u003ca href=\"https://www.jwine.com/shifting-the-lens.html\">Shifting the Lens\u003c/a>, Mistry’s summer-long residency series J Winery in Healdsburg, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13917165/preeti-mistry-wants-to-show-that-wine-pairing-isnt-just-for-white-food\">reexamines wine pairing in the context of cuisines that are often excluded from the fine dining discourse\u003c/a> here in the United States: Chinese food, Indian food, soul food. Each residency features a talented BIPOC woman guest chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starting Sept. 29, Shifting the Lens will close out its first year with a residency by Shenarri “Greens” Freeman, a New York City-based wellness advocate and the chef of the vegan soul food restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/cadence.newyork/?hl=en\">Cadence\u003c/a>. Over the course of two weeks, Thursday to Sunday, guests can book a two-hour, five-plus-course, fully plant-based tasting menu ($200) that comes with a thoughtful wine pairing for each dish. For those who want a little extra face time with the chef, a special VIP dinner on Oct. 1 will include a Q&A session. —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918360\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918360\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs.jpg\" alt=\"A cup of halo halo, with layers of bright purple ube ice cream, flan and sweet beans.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1068\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs.jpg 1600w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-768x513.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Turontastic-3_photo-from-Kultivate-Labs-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Turontastic’s halo-halo, from last year’s edition of Undiscovered SF. \u003ccite>(Photography by Albert Law: www.porkbellystudio.com)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.undiscoveredsf.com/#tickets\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Undiscovered SF Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>SOMA Pilipinas, San Francisco\u003cbr>\nOct. 22, noon–6pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year, the Undiscovered SF Festival asks the age-old question: If San Francisco had its very own Filipino theme park, what would that look like? Would mobile DJ crews usher each visitor in through ube-purple turnstiles? Would there be a lumpia-themed rollercoaster or a karaoke-themed merry-go-round? Most importantly: What would there be to eat?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Undiscovered SF 2022 will offer visitors the opportunity to see one possible vision for such a theme park come to life—though rollercoaster enthusiasts might have to wait for a future edition. Though the event’s earliest incarnations were set up as a \u003ca href=\"https://digital.modernluxury.com/publication/?m=3609&i=453302&p=84&ver=html5\">Filipino night market\u003c/a>, during the pandemic Undiscovered SF evolved into a daytime event spread across multiple indoor and outdoor venues in the SOMA Pilipinas cultural district. This year’s version promises to be the largest one yet, with a rollicking main stage set up at \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/sf/article/S-F-s-newest-green-space-just-opened-in-SoMa-16969411.php\">Parks at 5M\u003c/a>, the neighborhood’s brand new outdoor park; a kaleidoscope of crafts and streetwear vendors; art exhibitions; and more than 20 food vendors (including local legends like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thelumpiacompany/\">Lumpia Company\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thesarapshop/\">Sarap Shop\u003c/a>). —\u003cem>L.T.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918350\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918350\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale.jpg\" alt=\"A marigold-covered altar for Día de los Muertos on a street corner in Fruitvale.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/dia-altar_fruitvale-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A marigold-covered altar for the ancestors at Oakland’s Día de los Muertos festival in Fruitvale. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of the Unity Council)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://diaoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Día de los Muertos Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Fruitvale District, Oakland\u003cbr>\nOct. 30, 10am–5pm\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can’t celebrate fall in the Bay Area without attending a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/diaoakland/?hl=en\">Día de los Muertos event\u003c/a>—and, if you’re around Oakland, there’s no better place to do it than in Fruitvale. The cultural gathering has become one of the highlights of October, signaling the peak of “spooky szn,” autumnal changes and, of course, festival goodies. Now in its 27th year, Fruitvale’s Día de los Muertos event will return fully in person this Oct. 30 with a day of Aztec dancing, altar exhibits, live music and a more-than-you-can-eat offering of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the \u003ca href=\"https://unitycouncil.org/program/diaoakland/\">Oakland Unity Council\u003c/a>, which organizes the event, “The festival will resume in-person activities, highlighting the ofrendas, Danza Azteca, and low-riders which are all vital elements of the celebration. Our goal for the 2022 festival is to create a physical space where people can safely gather and hone in art and culture as tools for community healing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a themed-focus on honoring essential workers, this year’s celebration is meant to express a strong sense of gratitude to the food workers, cooks and purveyors of Latinx-focused meals. For the first time since the start of the pandemic, the street vendors that the Día event is known for will be back in full force. From street-style elote dripping with sour cream, cheese and powdered chile, to classic Fruitvale staples like tacos, burritos and tortas, you can’t go wrong with a celebratory afternoon of comida in one of the Bay Area’s most vibrant communities. —\u003cem>A.C.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "On Tacos and Solidarity: Bay Area Chefs Show Up for Marching Farm Workers",
"headTitle": "On Tacos and Solidarity: Bay Area Chefs Show Up for Marching Farm Workers | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Long before his food truck, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/alpastorpapi415/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Al Pastor Papi\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, became San Francisco’s most prominent ambassador of tacos al pastor, Miguel Escobedo had an even more basic connection to food: He was the grandchild of farm workers. His grandfather first came to the United States from Mexico in the late 1950s to work in the fields through the government-sanctioned \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2006/02/14/5205763/documenting-the-stories-of-bracero-guest-workers\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bracero program\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. That was the beginning of his family’s American journey. For Escobedo, then, the challenges and struggles that farm workers face have always felt intensely personal. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“My success—and hundreds of restaurateurs’ success—is pinned to the labor of my grandfather and all those people,” he says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So, when Escobedo heard about the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/world-nation/newsletter/2022-08-18/latinx-files-ufw-march-sacramento-latinx-files\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">historic, 335-mile march\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that the United Farm Workers embarked on this month—walking from California’s Central Valley all the way up to Sacramento—to demand that Governor Gavin Newsom sign a bill expanding farm workers’ union voting rights, he knew he needed to show his support. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Last week, Escobedo \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/ChaIgiWJt9I/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">announced to Al Pastor Papi’s 33,000-plus Instagram followers\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that he would be donating 10% of proceeds from the taco truck’s Friday night Fort Mason Off the Grid gig to support the UFW march—a fundraising effort that wound up yielding more than $600. Then, on Tuesday morning, Escobedo loaded up his truck with hats, socks and big cases of water, Gatorade and hydration powder. He drove up to Walnut Grove, some 30 miles outside of Sacramento, and spent the afternoon passing the supplies out to farm workers who were finishing up another long day of marching in the sweltering 94-degree heat—many had already walked for 20 days. He gave hugs to as many of them as he could.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/ChntE1EPfb8\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The specific piece of legislation in question, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kvpr.org/local-news/2022-08-02/farmworker-march-voting-rights\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Assembly Bill 2183, would allow farm workers to cast their ballots for union elections by mail\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, in private, without \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://ufw.org/caagvotingchoiceact2022/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">fear of intimidation by their employer\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Last year, the governor vetoed a similar bill. For Escobedo, the bill is just a way for farm workers to have more control over their participation in the union—and, by extension, over their own working conditions. “It’s just power to the people and power to the farm workers, making sure that they’re looked after and their voices are heard loud and clear,” he says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It’s not a Latino issue, it’s a human compassion issue,” Escobedo adds. “It affects anyone who eats produce—that’s everybody.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Marivel Mendoza, a co-founder of the nonprofit \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hijasdelcampo/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hijas del Campo\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, explains that the conditions facing farm workers reached a real crisis point during the pandemic. Along with three other first-generation Mexican American mothers, Mendoza started the organization in 2020 to support local farm workers in the Oakley and Brentwood areas of East Contra Costa County who were still going out into the fields every day, even during the worst stretches of the pandemic—even when wildfires put their lives at risk. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We realized that they aren’t getting things like stimulus checks or any sort of relief,” Mendoza says. “If they can’t work, they’re out of that money.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Miguel Escobedo, Al Pastor Papi\"]“It’s not a Latino issue, it’s a human compassion issue. It affects anyone who eats produce—that’s everybody.”[/pullquote]Mendoza, whose parents were farm workers after they first arrived in the U.S., says she and another co-founder both plan to attend the final rally in Sacramento on Friday, Aug. 26, as a way to show solidarity—to “be another person in the crowd that has directly come from the campesino community and wants to see more rights.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">She also stressed the importance of restaurant owners and other members of the Bay Area food community using their platform to raise awareness about farm workers’ struggles.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918096\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918096\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/al-pastor-papi_la-marcha_ufw.jpg\" alt=\"Two chefs stand in front of a large pan set up inside an outdoor tent.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/al-pastor-papi_la-marcha_ufw.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/al-pastor-papi_la-marcha_ufw-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/al-pastor-papi_la-marcha_ufw-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/al-pastor-papi_la-marcha_ufw-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/al-pastor-papi_la-marcha_ufw-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/al-pastor-papi_la-marcha_ufw-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/al-pastor-papi_la-marcha_ufw-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sergio Monleón (left) of Berkeley’s La Marcha and Miguel Escobedo of Al Pastor Papi drove out to Walnut Grove, CA, on Tuesday, Aug. 23, to help pass out food and supplies to the marching farm workers. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Miguel Escobedo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Like Escobedo, Sergio Monleón, chef and co-owner at Berkeley’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.lamarchaberkeley.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Marcha\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a Spanish tapas bar, grew up hearing about farm workers’ rights. Monleón’s mother was an activist, and he remembers attending United Farm Workers rallies in Los Angeles as a kid. At the time, the chants of “sí, se puede” didn’t mean much to him. Now, however, he has a much greater appreciation of how important farm workers are. “They are the backbone of what I built my entire career on,” he says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13905374,arts_13897752']Now Monleón has come full circle, bringing his own 8-year-old kid out with him to serve food to the UFW marchers. On Monday, they passed out about 100 plates of paella to marchers and community supporters in Galt. The marchers were in high spirits, he says, and happy to have a chance to try his paella—a nice change of pace from the steady stream of pizza and burritos they’d been given at other stopovers along the way.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Marcha has set up a \u003ca href=\"https://www.gofundme.com/f/meals-for-farmworkers-march?utm_campaign=p_cf+share-flow-1&utm_medium=copy_link&utm_source=customer\">GoFundMe page\u003c/a> for supporters to make donations to help fund these meals—it’s raised nearly $3,000 so far. Monleón says his plan is to continue to feed the marchers every day this week, including at Friday’s finale in Sacramento. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pIDhuQuidQ\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Al Pastor Papi’s Escobedo hopes fans of his food truck who weren’t able to make it out to last week’s fundraising event might consider making a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://ufw.org/sparechange/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">direct donation to the United Farm Workers\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Of course, he realizes that many of his customers might only care about buying a taco; they may not be aware of, or particularly interested in, his activism. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But Escobedo feels like it’s his job to raise awareness about farm worker conditions, even if it only makes a small, incremental difference. “If 100 people out of the 34,000 who follow me [on Instagram], it piques their interest—maybe they’ll stop and say, this does involve me,” he says. “If we enlighten one person, and they’re ready to mobilize, we’ve won.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918099\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918099\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS58042_037_KQED_UnitedFarmWorkersMarch_08242022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS58042_037_KQED_UnitedFarmWorkersMarch_08242022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS58042_037_KQED_UnitedFarmWorkersMarch_08242022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS58042_037_KQED_UnitedFarmWorkersMarch_08242022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS58042_037_KQED_UnitedFarmWorkersMarch_08242022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS58042_037_KQED_UnitedFarmWorkersMarch_08242022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS58042_037_KQED_UnitedFarmWorkersMarch_08242022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">As the United Farm Workers and their supporters marched through Walnut Grove, they were greeted by members of the Bay Area food community who had come out to pass out food and supplies. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Long before his food truck, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/alpastorpapi415/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Al Pastor Papi\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, became San Francisco’s most prominent ambassador of tacos al pastor, Miguel Escobedo had an even more basic connection to food: He was the grandchild of farm workers. His grandfather first came to the United States from Mexico in the late 1950s to work in the fields through the government-sanctioned \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2006/02/14/5205763/documenting-the-stories-of-bracero-guest-workers\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bracero program\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. That was the beginning of his family’s American journey. For Escobedo, then, the challenges and struggles that farm workers face have always felt intensely personal. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“My success—and hundreds of restaurateurs’ success—is pinned to the labor of my grandfather and all those people,” he says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So, when Escobedo heard about the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/world-nation/newsletter/2022-08-18/latinx-files-ufw-march-sacramento-latinx-files\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">historic, 335-mile march\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that the United Farm Workers embarked on this month—walking from California’s Central Valley all the way up to Sacramento—to demand that Governor Gavin Newsom sign a bill expanding farm workers’ union voting rights, he knew he needed to show his support. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Last week, Escobedo \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/ChaIgiWJt9I/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">announced to Al Pastor Papi’s 33,000-plus Instagram followers\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that he would be donating 10% of proceeds from the taco truck’s Friday night Fort Mason Off the Grid gig to support the UFW march—a fundraising effort that wound up yielding more than $600. Then, on Tuesday morning, Escobedo loaded up his truck with hats, socks and big cases of water, Gatorade and hydration powder. He drove up to Walnut Grove, some 30 miles outside of Sacramento, and spent the afternoon passing the supplies out to farm workers who were finishing up another long day of marching in the sweltering 94-degree heat—many had already walked for 20 days. He gave hugs to as many of them as he could.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The specific piece of legislation in question, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kvpr.org/local-news/2022-08-02/farmworker-march-voting-rights\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Assembly Bill 2183, would allow farm workers to cast their ballots for union elections by mail\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, in private, without \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://ufw.org/caagvotingchoiceact2022/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">fear of intimidation by their employer\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Last year, the governor vetoed a similar bill. For Escobedo, the bill is just a way for farm workers to have more control over their participation in the union—and, by extension, over their own working conditions. “It’s just power to the people and power to the farm workers, making sure that they’re looked after and their voices are heard loud and clear,” he says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It’s not a Latino issue, it’s a human compassion issue,” Escobedo adds. “It affects anyone who eats produce—that’s everybody.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Marivel Mendoza, a co-founder of the nonprofit \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hijasdelcampo/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hijas del Campo\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, explains that the conditions facing farm workers reached a real crisis point during the pandemic. Along with three other first-generation Mexican American mothers, Mendoza started the organization in 2020 to support local farm workers in the Oakley and Brentwood areas of East Contra Costa County who were still going out into the fields every day, even during the worst stretches of the pandemic—even when wildfires put their lives at risk. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We realized that they aren’t getting things like stimulus checks or any sort of relief,” Mendoza says. “If they can’t work, they’re out of that money.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Mendoza, whose parents were farm workers after they first arrived in the U.S., says she and another co-founder both plan to attend the final rally in Sacramento on Friday, Aug. 26, as a way to show solidarity—to “be another person in the crowd that has directly come from the campesino community and wants to see more rights.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">She also stressed the importance of restaurant owners and other members of the Bay Area food community using their platform to raise awareness about farm workers’ struggles.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918096\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918096\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/al-pastor-papi_la-marcha_ufw.jpg\" alt=\"Two chefs stand in front of a large pan set up inside an outdoor tent.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/al-pastor-papi_la-marcha_ufw.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/al-pastor-papi_la-marcha_ufw-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/al-pastor-papi_la-marcha_ufw-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/al-pastor-papi_la-marcha_ufw-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/al-pastor-papi_la-marcha_ufw-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/al-pastor-papi_la-marcha_ufw-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/al-pastor-papi_la-marcha_ufw-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sergio Monleón (left) of Berkeley’s La Marcha and Miguel Escobedo of Al Pastor Papi drove out to Walnut Grove, CA, on Tuesday, Aug. 23, to help pass out food and supplies to the marching farm workers. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Miguel Escobedo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Like Escobedo, Sergio Monleón, chef and co-owner at Berkeley’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.lamarchaberkeley.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Marcha\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a Spanish tapas bar, grew up hearing about farm workers’ rights. Monleón’s mother was an activist, and he remembers attending United Farm Workers rallies in Los Angeles as a kid. At the time, the chants of “sí, se puede” didn’t mean much to him. Now, however, he has a much greater appreciation of how important farm workers are. “They are the backbone of what I built my entire career on,” he says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Now Monleón has come full circle, bringing his own 8-year-old kid out with him to serve food to the UFW marchers. On Monday, they passed out about 100 plates of paella to marchers and community supporters in Galt. The marchers were in high spirits, he says, and happy to have a chance to try his paella—a nice change of pace from the steady stream of pizza and burritos they’d been given at other stopovers along the way.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Marcha has set up a \u003ca href=\"https://www.gofundme.com/f/meals-for-farmworkers-march?utm_campaign=p_cf+share-flow-1&utm_medium=copy_link&utm_source=customer\">GoFundMe page\u003c/a> for supporters to make donations to help fund these meals—it’s raised nearly $3,000 so far. Monleón says his plan is to continue to feed the marchers every day this week, including at Friday’s finale in Sacramento. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/4pIDhuQuidQ'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/4pIDhuQuidQ'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Al Pastor Papi’s Escobedo hopes fans of his food truck who weren’t able to make it out to last week’s fundraising event might consider making a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://ufw.org/sparechange/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">direct donation to the United Farm Workers\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Of course, he realizes that many of his customers might only care about buying a taco; they may not be aware of, or particularly interested in, his activism. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But Escobedo feels like it’s his job to raise awareness about farm worker conditions, even if it only makes a small, incremental difference. “If 100 people out of the 34,000 who follow me [on Instagram], it piques their interest—maybe they’ll stop and say, this does involve me,” he says. “If we enlighten one person, and they’re ready to mobilize, we’ve won.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918099\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918099\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS58042_037_KQED_UnitedFarmWorkersMarch_08242022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS58042_037_KQED_UnitedFarmWorkersMarch_08242022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS58042_037_KQED_UnitedFarmWorkersMarch_08242022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS58042_037_KQED_UnitedFarmWorkersMarch_08242022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS58042_037_KQED_UnitedFarmWorkersMarch_08242022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS58042_037_KQED_UnitedFarmWorkersMarch_08242022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/RS58042_037_KQED_UnitedFarmWorkersMarch_08242022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">As the United Farm Workers and their supporters marched through Walnut Grove, they were greeted by members of the Bay Area food community who had come out to pass out food and supplies. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Rice-Inspired Art Show Ditches the Term 'Middle Eastern'",
"headTitle": "Rice-Inspired Art Show Ditches the Term ‘Middle Eastern’ | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Biryani, pilaf and polo are a few of the many iterations of intricately seasoned and adorned rice dishes found across the South, Southwest Asia and North Africa (SSWANA) region. They’re also the inspiration for \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgc1yUnv1Z0/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jeweled Rice\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a temporary gallery and food pop-up series in Oakland. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Everyone in the region has their own version of it,” curator \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.jasminedjavahery.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jasmine Djavahery\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> explains. “We all have some beautiful, colorful rice dish that’s a melange of sweet, savory, sour flavors that seem, perhaps from afar, that they wouldn’t work. But they blend perfectly together.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Djavahery began identifying as SSWANA—rather than “Middle Eastern”—while studying art and ethnic studies at UC Santa Cruz. “It’s so specific to the West,” they say about the term “Middle East.” “It does not encompass the actual region.” Whereas “Middle East” serves the political and economic interests of colonial powers, “SSWANA” reprioritizes the peoples of the region.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Djavahery moved to the East Bay after graduation to take part in the region’s thriving arts and cultural scenes. Through the Center for Iranian Diaspora Studies at San Francisco State University, they hosted \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://anchor.fm/del-beh-del?utm_source=Center+for+Iranian+Diaspora+Studies\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Del beh Del\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a podcast spotlighting progressive conversations in the global Iranian community. “It solidified my desire and need to create spaces that I wasn’t finding in the Persian community,” Djavahery reflects. “I also felt like I needed to build my own community and knowledge of the SSWANA community.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918027\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2016px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918027\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery.jpg\" alt=\"Framed art displayed on a white wall in a gallery.\" width=\"2016\" height=\"1512\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery.jpg 2016w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2016px) 100vw, 2016px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Each piece of art offers a glimpse into the kaleidoscope that makes up the SSWANA diaspora. \u003ccite>(Jasmine Djavahery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The relationships Djavahery built with other SSWANA creatives and community organizers culminated in Jeweled Rice\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgc1yUnv1Z0/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> a show housed at North Oakland’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/crisisclubgallery/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Crisis Club Gallery\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> through September. The show features a multi-medium art gallery and food pop-ups, offering a glimpse into the kaleidoscope that makes up the SSWANA diaspora.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Traditional museums and academia often rely on the myth of objective third parties when documenting the experiences of people and their cultures. Jeweled Rice subverts the Western gaze by offering a space for individuals to speak for themselves through paintings, prints, zines and sculptures, as well as food.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In one piece, delicate \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">glasswork triangulates onlookers between the Midwest, Oakland and Syria. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A nearby lithograph etches its subject into a cathartic embrace with an onion, surrounded by a halo of suspended knives. Another print integrates dirt and nigella seeds—typically a garnish for breads like pide and borek—to depict delicate buttercup figurations.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918033\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918033\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Sculpture of a seated woman with her eyes closed.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The show subverts the Western gaze by offering a space for individuals to speak for themselves. \u003ccite>(Jacquelyn Tran)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“You don’t need Persian motifs to be Persian art,” Djavahery asserts. “I wanted to make sure that you felt like you didn’t have to have a typical pomegranate. Everyone’s interpretation of culture is specific to them.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bay Area SSWANA artists featured in the show include Amal Amer, Deena Hasheem, Degne Beyce, Donna Arkee, Jasmine Djavahery, Lina Celik, Mila Moldenhawer, Najah Alboushi, Rami KD, Sanaa Scherezade Khan, Yasmeen Abedifard and Zahra Hooshyar.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Jasmine Djavahery\"]“You don’t need Persian motifs to be Persian art… Everyone’s interpretation of culture is specific to them.”[/pullquote]Apart from the art, the gallery is complemented by a rotating orbit of food offerings. “Art galleries can be very exclusive and uninviting because of how they’re painted, or because of the people we think go to these spaces,” Djavahery says. “Food is an easy way to invite people in.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The chefs that Djavahery gathered for these pop-ups come from a new generation of food bloggers focused on embodying their identities. Many of these cooks noted that food is art. Through their writing and cooking, they materialize homeland heartaches, meditate on culture and cultivate community. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918030\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918030\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski.jpg\" alt=\"A spread of bread, olives, raw vegetable, and dips.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1536\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-800x640.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-160x128.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-768x614.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-1536x1229.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A spread of vegan snacks from the Palestinian pop-up Mishmish includes zaatar-topped manoushe and cashew-based labneh. \u003ccite>(Dana Plucinski)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I had never seen Persian cuisine in this way,” Djavahery gushes, “I’ve been fascinated by this new generation of younger chefs taking control and agency of the foods they grew up with and presenting it to the social media sphere.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Helia Sadeghi of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bigdillkitchen/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Big Dill Kitchen\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> came to the U.S. as a refugee at 17. Cooking became a way for them to process trauma, loneliness and homesickness for their hometown of Isfahan, Iran. They began Big Dill Kitchen as a cooking blog, which blossomed into a platform—and a pop-up concept—where they could use food as an expression of their identity as a queer Iranian refugee living in diaspora.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The indie, DIY setting of these pop-ups gave Sadeghi the freedom to depart from the limited American understandings of “Middle Eastern” foods—there is so much more than kabobs, falafel, shawarma and saffron rice.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At their Jeweled Rice pop-up last weekend, Sadeghi offered \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/ChdhFgHp78Z/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">panir sabzi focaccia\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgmhq2dLpn-/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">carrot jam\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CdMKADDPpVq/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">rose chocolate chip cookies\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and a rose chia refresher. Sadeghi’s iteration of the focaccia art trend adorned the leavened bread with ingredients usually found in a Persian panir sabzi platter. The carrot jam—Sadeghi’s favorite—starred beautifully candied carrots finished with romantic flavors of orange peels and rose. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I am a queer person from the SSWANA community. Just being a SSWANA person living in diaspora is an ongoing existential crisis,” Sadeghi adds with a laugh. “I feel so disconnected—and I know this is a mutual feeling from other folks living in the diaspora—from parts of yourself, parts of your identity. It’s hard to express that or talk about it. It’s amazing to see it come together, and see a community being built around art and food.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918031\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918031\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia.jpg\" alt=\"Squares of tomato and herb-topped focaccia on a cooling rack.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1935\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-800x806.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-1020x1028.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-160x161.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-768x774.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-1524x1536.jpg 1524w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Big Dill Kitchen’s beautifully adorned focaccia is inspired by a traditional Iranian dish. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Big Dill Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Michelle Nazzal began her pop-up \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.mishmishsouq.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mishmish\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (“apricot” in Arabic) to preserve her grandmother’s Palestininan recipes and practice of community care through food. “The way I view the food I make is that I want people to feel comfort and community. I want them to feel nourished and cared for,” she explains. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At her upcoming Jeweled Rice appearance, Nazzal will serve a menu of vegan Palestinian snacks as a way to replicate these comforting sentiments. Nazzal sources hard-to-acquire Palestinian zaatar for her manoushe, yielding a tangy flatbread. She’ll sell vegan labneh, made with cashew in place of yogurt. “I went vegan seven years ago, and labneh was the hardest thing for me to give up. It was important to me to figure out how to make it vegan,” explains Nazzal of her most popular dish. A traditional cardamom mint tea will also be available. (\u003cem>Update: Originally slated for Fri., Aug. 26, Mishmish’s pop-up will be rescheduled for a September date.\u003c/em>)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13911528,arts_13904913,arts_13903133']On Sunday, Aug. 28, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bademjoonam/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bademjoonam\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (a pun on bademjan, Farsi for “eggplant,” and joonam, a term of endearment) will serve Iranian-inspired sweets and refreshing sharbat, a drink that combines rooibos tea with basil seeds and floral accents. Sweets will include sholeh zard, a rice pudding infused with saffron, rose water and cardamom, as well as matcha cardamom cookies. For the cook, Sheila, the sholeh zard is a labor of love, requiring time spent carefully cooking rice while preparing the spices by hand. The pudding is adorned with a unique “one-of-one” design composed of cinnamon and pistachios that Sheila has prepared with her mother since childhood.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Earlier food businesses featured at the Jeweled Rice show include \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tanoorpopup/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tanoor\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a chai-focused Yemeni pop-up, and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/shikamu_/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Shikamu\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, an Iranian pop-up.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Museums and art galleries continue to diversify their programming after the 2020 protests, frantically attempting to correct archaic practices. But who gets to curate these spaces? Who determines which voices are worthy of satisfying haphazard institutional diversity quotas? And should we only look at these spaces?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I saw the limitations of the art world and of representation,” reflects Djavahery of their experience practicing and studying art. “I rarely see SSWANA art in museums. And if there is art, it’s usually not contemporary, or it’s limited to Islamic art. It’s usually just a couple people. In bigger gallery spaces, I don’t see representation of SSWANA art. And in the East Bay, I think some of these galleries are inaccessible to those who don’t know the right people or those who are less familiar with the ‘higher arts scene.’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jeweled Rice offers an alternative with its community-centered approach to arts curation. For the cooks and artists in the show, Jeweled Rice is one more step toward expressing the full constellation of the Bay Area’s SSWANA diaspora.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jeweled Rice is displayed at Crisis Club Gallery (5887 San Pablo Ave., Oakland) through Sept. 25. The gallery is open Friday to Sunday from 2–7pm. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bademjoonam/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bademjoonam\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> will pop up on Sunday, Aug. 28, 3–7pm. \u003ca href=\"https://www.mishmishsouq.com/\">Mishmish’s\u003c/a> rescheduled pop-up will occur in September. Additional pop-ups will be announced on \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kabobkidcrafts/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">@KabobKidCrafts\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Entry is free.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Biryani, pilaf and polo are a few of the many iterations of intricately seasoned and adorned rice dishes found across the South, Southwest Asia and North Africa (SSWANA) region. They’re also the inspiration for \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgc1yUnv1Z0/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jeweled Rice\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a temporary gallery and food pop-up series in Oakland. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Everyone in the region has their own version of it,” curator \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.jasminedjavahery.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jasmine Djavahery\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> explains. “We all have some beautiful, colorful rice dish that’s a melange of sweet, savory, sour flavors that seem, perhaps from afar, that they wouldn’t work. But they blend perfectly together.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Djavahery began identifying as SSWANA—rather than “Middle Eastern”—while studying art and ethnic studies at UC Santa Cruz. “It’s so specific to the West,” they say about the term “Middle East.” “It does not encompass the actual region.” Whereas “Middle East” serves the political and economic interests of colonial powers, “SSWANA” reprioritizes the peoples of the region.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Djavahery moved to the East Bay after graduation to take part in the region’s thriving arts and cultural scenes. Through the Center for Iranian Diaspora Studies at San Francisco State University, they hosted \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://anchor.fm/del-beh-del?utm_source=Center+for+Iranian+Diaspora+Studies\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Del beh Del\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a podcast spotlighting progressive conversations in the global Iranian community. “It solidified my desire and need to create spaces that I wasn’t finding in the Persian community,” Djavahery reflects. “I also felt like I needed to build my own community and knowledge of the SSWANA community.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918027\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2016px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918027\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery.jpg\" alt=\"Framed art displayed on a white wall in a gallery.\" width=\"2016\" height=\"1512\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery.jpg 2016w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jasmine-Djahavery-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2016px) 100vw, 2016px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Each piece of art offers a glimpse into the kaleidoscope that makes up the SSWANA diaspora. \u003ccite>(Jasmine Djavahery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The relationships Djavahery built with other SSWANA creatives and community organizers culminated in Jeweled Rice\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgc1yUnv1Z0/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> a show housed at North Oakland’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/crisisclubgallery/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Crisis Club Gallery\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> through September. The show features a multi-medium art gallery and food pop-ups, offering a glimpse into the kaleidoscope that makes up the SSWANA diaspora.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Traditional museums and academia often rely on the myth of objective third parties when documenting the experiences of people and their cultures. Jeweled Rice subverts the Western gaze by offering a space for individuals to speak for themselves through paintings, prints, zines and sculptures, as well as food.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In one piece, delicate \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">glasswork triangulates onlookers between the Midwest, Oakland and Syria. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A nearby lithograph etches its subject into a cathartic embrace with an onion, surrounded by a halo of suspended knives. Another print integrates dirt and nigella seeds—typically a garnish for breads like pide and borek—to depict delicate buttercup figurations.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918033\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918033\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Sculpture of a seated woman with her eyes closed.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Jeweled-Rice_Jacquelyn-Tran2-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The show subverts the Western gaze by offering a space for individuals to speak for themselves. \u003ccite>(Jacquelyn Tran)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“You don’t need Persian motifs to be Persian art,” Djavahery asserts. “I wanted to make sure that you felt like you didn’t have to have a typical pomegranate. Everyone’s interpretation of culture is specific to them.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bay Area SSWANA artists featured in the show include Amal Amer, Deena Hasheem, Degne Beyce, Donna Arkee, Jasmine Djavahery, Lina Celik, Mila Moldenhawer, Najah Alboushi, Rami KD, Sanaa Scherezade Khan, Yasmeen Abedifard and Zahra Hooshyar.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Apart from the art, the gallery is complemented by a rotating orbit of food offerings. “Art galleries can be very exclusive and uninviting because of how they’re painted, or because of the people we think go to these spaces,” Djavahery says. “Food is an easy way to invite people in.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The chefs that Djavahery gathered for these pop-ups come from a new generation of food bloggers focused on embodying their identities. Many of these cooks noted that food is art. Through their writing and cooking, they materialize homeland heartaches, meditate on culture and cultivate community. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918030\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918030\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski.jpg\" alt=\"A spread of bread, olives, raw vegetable, and dips.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1536\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-800x640.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-160x128.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-768x614.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Mishmsh_Spread_DanaPlucinski-1536x1229.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A spread of vegan snacks from the Palestinian pop-up Mishmish includes zaatar-topped manoushe and cashew-based labneh. \u003ccite>(Dana Plucinski)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I had never seen Persian cuisine in this way,” Djavahery gushes, “I’ve been fascinated by this new generation of younger chefs taking control and agency of the foods they grew up with and presenting it to the social media sphere.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Helia Sadeghi of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bigdillkitchen/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Big Dill Kitchen\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> came to the U.S. as a refugee at 17. Cooking became a way for them to process trauma, loneliness and homesickness for their hometown of Isfahan, Iran. They began Big Dill Kitchen as a cooking blog, which blossomed into a platform—and a pop-up concept—where they could use food as an expression of their identity as a queer Iranian refugee living in diaspora.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The indie, DIY setting of these pop-ups gave Sadeghi the freedom to depart from the limited American understandings of “Middle Eastern” foods—there is so much more than kabobs, falafel, shawarma and saffron rice.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At their Jeweled Rice pop-up last weekend, Sadeghi offered \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/ChdhFgHp78Z/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">panir sabzi focaccia\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgmhq2dLpn-/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">carrot jam\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CdMKADDPpVq/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">rose chocolate chip cookies\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and a rose chia refresher. Sadeghi’s iteration of the focaccia art trend adorned the leavened bread with ingredients usually found in a Persian panir sabzi platter. The carrot jam—Sadeghi’s favorite—starred beautifully candied carrots finished with romantic flavors of orange peels and rose. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I am a queer person from the SSWANA community. Just being a SSWANA person living in diaspora is an ongoing existential crisis,” Sadeghi adds with a laugh. “I feel so disconnected—and I know this is a mutual feeling from other folks living in the diaspora—from parts of yourself, parts of your identity. It’s hard to express that or talk about it. It’s amazing to see it come together, and see a community being built around art and food.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13918031\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13918031\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia.jpg\" alt=\"Squares of tomato and herb-topped focaccia on a cooling rack.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1935\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-800x806.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-1020x1028.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-160x161.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-768x774.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Big-Dill-Kitchen-Focaccia-1524x1536.jpg 1524w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Big Dill Kitchen’s beautifully adorned focaccia is inspired by a traditional Iranian dish. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Big Dill Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Michelle Nazzal began her pop-up \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.mishmishsouq.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mishmish\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (“apricot” in Arabic) to preserve her grandmother’s Palestininan recipes and practice of community care through food. “The way I view the food I make is that I want people to feel comfort and community. I want them to feel nourished and cared for,” she explains. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At her upcoming Jeweled Rice appearance, Nazzal will serve a menu of vegan Palestinian snacks as a way to replicate these comforting sentiments. Nazzal sources hard-to-acquire Palestinian zaatar for her manoushe, yielding a tangy flatbread. She’ll sell vegan labneh, made with cashew in place of yogurt. “I went vegan seven years ago, and labneh was the hardest thing for me to give up. It was important to me to figure out how to make it vegan,” explains Nazzal of her most popular dish. A traditional cardamom mint tea will also be available. (\u003cem>Update: Originally slated for Fri., Aug. 26, Mishmish’s pop-up will be rescheduled for a September date.\u003c/em>)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>On Sunday, Aug. 28, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bademjoonam/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bademjoonam\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (a pun on bademjan, Farsi for “eggplant,” and joonam, a term of endearment) will serve Iranian-inspired sweets and refreshing sharbat, a drink that combines rooibos tea with basil seeds and floral accents. Sweets will include sholeh zard, a rice pudding infused with saffron, rose water and cardamom, as well as matcha cardamom cookies. For the cook, Sheila, the sholeh zard is a labor of love, requiring time spent carefully cooking rice while preparing the spices by hand. The pudding is adorned with a unique “one-of-one” design composed of cinnamon and pistachios that Sheila has prepared with her mother since childhood.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Earlier food businesses featured at the Jeweled Rice show include \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tanoorpopup/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tanoor\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a chai-focused Yemeni pop-up, and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/shikamu_/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Shikamu\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, an Iranian pop-up.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Museums and art galleries continue to diversify their programming after the 2020 protests, frantically attempting to correct archaic practices. But who gets to curate these spaces? Who determines which voices are worthy of satisfying haphazard institutional diversity quotas? And should we only look at these spaces?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I saw the limitations of the art world and of representation,” reflects Djavahery of their experience practicing and studying art. “I rarely see SSWANA art in museums. And if there is art, it’s usually not contemporary, or it’s limited to Islamic art. It’s usually just a couple people. In bigger gallery spaces, I don’t see representation of SSWANA art. And in the East Bay, I think some of these galleries are inaccessible to those who don’t know the right people or those who are less familiar with the ‘higher arts scene.’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jeweled Rice offers an alternative with its community-centered approach to arts curation. For the cooks and artists in the show, Jeweled Rice is one more step toward expressing the full constellation of the Bay Area’s SSWANA diaspora.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"title": "At Lumpia Lands, Filipino Flavor Is the Star of the Show",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the Philippines, a “palengke” is a one-stop outdoor market where everything can be found—from food and alcohol to furniture, jewelry and even cockfights. These are crucial outposts where locals gather to share news, exchange ideas and connect.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s the concept that inspired Anthony Schlander (aka \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/anthonypresents/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Anthony Presents\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">), the local Filipino American entrepreneur and creative director at San Francisco’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/districtsixsf/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">District Six\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, to launch Lumpia Lands.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">District Six’s Aug. 21 event will feature no fewer than 10 vendors—all Filipino-owned—who will be on hand at the open-air entertainment venue to celebrate Filipino flavors, culture and unity.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It’s a festival with Filipino talent from all over the country,” Schlander says. “A lot of us don’t have the knowledge or bridges to grow. We don’t all know how to market. But if we can all be in the same area together, we can buy food from our vendors, we can support our small businesses. If they win, we all win.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The festival is part of a bigger series of events at District Six—including \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/YLnBcR44_VM?t=1265\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ube Fest\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> earlier this year—that promote “family friendly” experiences centered on various diasporic cultures with Bay Area roots.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917818\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13917818\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A crowd of festival attendees, many of them holding beer cans, on a beautiful sunny day.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A crowd of happy festival-goers at a previous District Six event. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Carla Jay)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lumpia Lands is the perfect example of this. It’s a spoof on \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13917310/outside-lands-2022-photos-review\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Outside Lands (the massive annual music festival whose famous acts and concert-goers take over Golden Gate Park each summer\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">), but with a significantly smaller, hyper-local and food-centric vibe that features live performances from Filipino artists like VRO and DJ Marcus Lee.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Of course, there will be hella lumpia, too. From traditional pork lumpia to vegetarian versions, there will be more than enough options for any connoisseur of the Filipino egg rolls.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“My favorite is shrimp lumpia from Lumpia Company, but don’t tell my mom,” Schlander says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13915581,arts_13913828']The lineup for the day will include food pop-ups from \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/draeslemonade/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Drae’s Lemonade\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (fresh lemonade and cocktails), \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/iriesbites/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Iries Bites\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (sweet items like madeleines dipped in ube as well as chocolate-covered mangoes), Made By Grace (BBQ skewers) and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lilalijocatering/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lil Alijo\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (crab lumpia), among others. (The aforementioned District Six regular \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13907726/e-40-goon-with-the-spoon-bay-area-rappers-food-entrepreneurs-hustle\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lumpia Company—which is co-owned by hip-hip entrepreneur E-40\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and his business partner, Alex Retodo—won’t be able to make it this time due to scheduling conflicts.) Each vendor is planning an exclusive Lumpia Lands item. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Schlander is emphatic that the event is not solely for Filipino patrons, nor is it lumpia exclusive. There will be candle makers. There will be clothing brands. There will be essential oils. There will be entertainers. And at the center of it all: Filipino flavor. Because that’s what a “palengke” is all about.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We can impact the economy [with these events],” he says. “A lot of these folks are small business owners. With Lumpia Lands, as a Filipino, I’m fortunate enough to help lead a part of this larger Filipino renaissance.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://dothebay.com/events/2022/8/20/lumpia-lands-2022-tickets\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lumpia Lands\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> takes place at District Six (428 11th St., San Francisco) on Sunday, Aug. 21, from noon–5pm (it had previously been scheduled for Sat., Aug 20). Individual tickets are $5; group table reservations are $50. Buying tickets in advance is highly recommended.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the Philippines, a “palengke” is a one-stop outdoor market where everything can be found—from food and alcohol to furniture, jewelry and even cockfights. These are crucial outposts where locals gather to share news, exchange ideas and connect.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s the concept that inspired Anthony Schlander (aka \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/anthonypresents/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Anthony Presents\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">), the local Filipino American entrepreneur and creative director at San Francisco’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/districtsixsf/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">District Six\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, to launch Lumpia Lands.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">District Six’s Aug. 21 event will feature no fewer than 10 vendors—all Filipino-owned—who will be on hand at the open-air entertainment venue to celebrate Filipino flavors, culture and unity.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It’s a festival with Filipino talent from all over the country,” Schlander says. “A lot of us don’t have the knowledge or bridges to grow. We don’t all know how to market. But if we can all be in the same area together, we can buy food from our vendors, we can support our small businesses. If they win, we all win.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The festival is part of a bigger series of events at District Six—including \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/YLnBcR44_VM?t=1265\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ube Fest\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> earlier this year—that promote “family friendly” experiences centered on various diasporic cultures with Bay Area roots.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13917818\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13917818\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A crowd of festival attendees, many of them holding beer cans, on a beautiful sunny day.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/08/Lumpia-Lands_district-six-crowd-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A crowd of happy festival-goers at a previous District Six event. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Carla Jay)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lumpia Lands is the perfect example of this. It’s a spoof on \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13917310/outside-lands-2022-photos-review\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Outside Lands (the massive annual music festival whose famous acts and concert-goers take over Golden Gate Park each summer\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">), but with a significantly smaller, hyper-local and food-centric vibe that features live performances from Filipino artists like VRO and DJ Marcus Lee.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Of course, there will be hella lumpia, too. From traditional pork lumpia to vegetarian versions, there will be more than enough options for any connoisseur of the Filipino egg rolls.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“My favorite is shrimp lumpia from Lumpia Company, but don’t tell my mom,” Schlander says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>The lineup for the day will include food pop-ups from \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/draeslemonade/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Drae’s Lemonade\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (fresh lemonade and cocktails), \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/iriesbites/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Iries Bites\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (sweet items like madeleines dipped in ube as well as chocolate-covered mangoes), Made By Grace (BBQ skewers) and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lilalijocatering/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lil Alijo\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (crab lumpia), among others. (The aforementioned District Six regular \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13907726/e-40-goon-with-the-spoon-bay-area-rappers-food-entrepreneurs-hustle\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lumpia Company—which is co-owned by hip-hip entrepreneur E-40\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and his business partner, Alex Retodo—won’t be able to make it this time due to scheduling conflicts.) Each vendor is planning an exclusive Lumpia Lands item. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Schlander is emphatic that the event is not solely for Filipino patrons, nor is it lumpia exclusive. There will be candle makers. There will be clothing brands. There will be essential oils. There will be entertainers. And at the center of it all: Filipino flavor. Because that’s what a “palengke” is all about.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We can impact the economy [with these events],” he says. “A lot of these folks are small business owners. With Lumpia Lands, as a Filipino, I’m fortunate enough to help lead a part of this larger Filipino renaissance.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://dothebay.com/events/2022/8/20/lumpia-lands-2022-tickets\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lumpia Lands\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> takes place at District Six (428 11th St., San Francisco) on Sunday, Aug. 21, from noon–5pm (it had previously been scheduled for Sat., Aug 20). Individual tickets are $5; group table reservations are $50. Buying tickets in advance is highly recommended.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"id": "baycurious",
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"tagline": "Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time",
"info": "KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.",
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},
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},
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"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
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"order": 8
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"tagline": "Your state, your stories",
"info": "Every week, The California Report Magazine takes you on a road trip for the ears: to visit the places and meet the people who make California unique. The in-depth storytelling podcast from the California Report.",
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"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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"order": 1
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"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
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"title": "Forum",
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"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 9
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"meta": {
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"source": "WNYC"
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"id": "fresh-air",
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"hidden-brain": {
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"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
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"source": "NPR"
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"how-i-built-this": {
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"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
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"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"jerrybrown": {
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"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"order": 18
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},
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"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
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"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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