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"title": "The Bay Area's First Vegan Puerto Rican Restaurant Doesn't Skimp on Flavor",
"headTitle": "The Bay Area’s First Vegan Puerto Rican Restaurant Doesn’t Skimp on Flavor | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>When you step inside Lourdes Marquez-Nau’s new restaurant, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/casaborinquena/\">Casa Borinqueña\u003c/a>, you’ll see Puerto Rican art hanging on its bright yellow walls, pilónes (indigenous wooden mortars) on the countertop and other cultural artifacts spread around the restaurant. You’ll see photographs that the chef captured — street scenes and beach landscapes in El Viejo San Juan and her hometown of Camuy. Even the restaurant’s logo is a statement of Puerto Rican pride: It’s a mock-up of Marquez-Nau’s grandmother’s home on the island.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What you won’t find at Casa Borinqueña, however, is any meat on the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since 2018, Marquez-Nau, who also goes by Chef Lulu, has offered vegan options at her pop-ups, especially after she adopted a vegan diet herself during the pandemic. But, the chef’s new North Oakland location will be a 100% plant-based Puerto Rican restaurant — the first of its kind in the Bay Area. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the classic image of a Puerto Rican meal, a hefty amount of juicy, marinated meat gets paired with rice and beans. Casa Borinqueña was no different when it first started out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At her pop-ups and catering gigs around the Bay Area, Marquez-Nau’s popular dishes included her arroz mamposteao (a Puerto Rican fried rice made with smoked ham or bacon) and her pernil, the cuisine’s famous slow-roasted marinated pork. These classics were some of the chef’s own childhood favorites, after all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the pandemic, however, Marquez-Nau started reflecting on her health and the way her body was feeling. “I just said, ‘It’s time to start cutting things out of my diet,’” Marquez-Nau shares. “It was about my health and me not being able to [simply] go to the gym.” Fast forward to 2020, and the chef cut all animal products out of her diet. For a while she still served meat dishes at her pop-up, but in time the chef felt it was important to have her business honestly reflect who she was. She decided to make Casa Borinqueña completely vegan. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920584\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920584\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_shrimp-mofongo.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of shrimp mofongo against a dark blue backdrop.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1536\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_shrimp-mofongo.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_shrimp-mofongo-800x640.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_shrimp-mofongo-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_shrimp-mofongo-160x128.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_shrimp-mofongo-768x614.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_shrimp-mofongo-1536x1229.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Lourdes Marquez-Nau says it’s the sofrito — not the meat — that provides the flavor to dishes like her shrimp mofongo, which she makes with plant-based shrimp. \u003ccite>(Nicola Parisi)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For Marquez-Nau, the process of veganizing traditionally Puerto Rican recipes hasn’t been as difficult as you might predict. She explains that the base of all Puerto Rican cuisine isn’t the meat itself but the sofrito — a mixture of herbs and vegetables combined with cooking oil to enhance the flavor of almost every dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Meat doesn’t have a flavor. We introduce the flavor,” says Marquez-Nau. “The texture of the meat may be different, but the flavor is there. It’s a matter of having the same approach [when cooking vegan food].” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chef still infuses each dish with sofrito and sources 75% of her ingredients from Puerto Rico. The only difference is that Marquez-Nau now uses meat alternatives like the soy-based ones made by Impossible Foods. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I wanted to stay traditional, so I treat vegan meat similar to how I would treat regular meat,” she shares. “Whatever [seasonings] I would use on my pork, I now use on my vegan pork.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920585\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920585\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_mofongo-burger.jpg\" alt=\"A vegan burger with mofongo (fried mashed plantains) serving as the bun.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2400\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_mofongo-burger.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_mofongo-burger-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_mofongo-burger-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_mofongo-burger-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_mofongo-burger-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_mofongo-burger-1229x1536.jpg 1229w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_mofongo-burger-1638x2048.jpg 1638w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The vegan burger features a mofongo “bun” and Impossible Foods plant-based beef patties. \u003ccite>(Nicola Parisi)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now that she has a brick-and-mortar restaurant, Marquez-Nau will expand Casa Borinqueña’s menu with new items such as plant-based pastelón (a multi-layered dish akin to a Puerto Rican plantain lasagna), coffee sourced from the island and a kind of sweet, coiled pastry called pan de Mallorca. She’ll also serve the creamy coconut drink known as a coquito — an alcohol-free version until the restaurant receives its beer-and-wine license.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Part of Marquez-Nau’s motivation in opening the restaurant is how common health issues like diabetes and high cholesterol are within the Latin American community, much of which doesn’t have access to healthcare. Genetics contribute to this, but Marquez-Nau believes excessive meat consumption is also a big factor. That’s why she’s dedicated to making her plant-based food accessible to everyone, especially communities of color. After all, vegan food can cost a pretty penny. In hopes of helping to bridge that gap, the restaurant will implement a “Pay What You Can Tuesday” when it will serve dishes on a voluntary donation basis. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s a huge disparity between healthy eating and communities of color because they can’t have access to healthy food,” says Marquez-Nau. “Why shouldn’t we give back as a vegan community?” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although her transition to becoming a vegan chef has had a positive effect on Marquez-Nau’s well-being, she has often felt unsupported by her community. The responses she received from Puerto Ricans ranged from “how dare you do this to Puerto Rican cuisine” to “your business isn’t going to be successful.” At times, she felt as though she had been rejected from her own culture. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It was just so negative. This was a difficult time in my life when I was going through a transition, and that feedback was really bad for me,” Marquez-Nau shares. “It had me questioning everything I was doing.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, the chef stayed devoted to her plant-based brainchild, and, as a silver lining, she found that she had been embraced by a new group of people: vegans. “I got away from that and moved forward,” the chef says. “Whoever respects me and welcomes me are my kind of people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920586\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920586\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_facade.jpg\" alt='Yellow facade of a restaurant, with a sign that reads \"Casa Borinqueña.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_facade.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_facade-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_facade-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_facade-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_facade-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_facade-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The logo for the restaurant is an image of Marquez-Nau’s grandmother’s house in Puerto Rico. \u003ccite>(Paloma Cortes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13919177,arts_13910234,arts_13906738']For now, Marquez-Nau says, Casa Borinqueña is only being held back by the Alameda County Department of Environmental Health, which has kept the restaurant in limbo for the past six months. She’s hopeful, however, that she’ll be able to welcome the community into the space by the end of this year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, starting on Nov. 3, Casa Borinqueña will serve dinner three nights a week out of \u003ca href=\"https://plantedtable.com/\">Planted Table\u003c/a>, a plant-based meal delivery company based in Oakland’s Jack London neighborhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the restaurant is finally able to hold its grand opening, Marquez-Nau plans to invite locals to celebrate not just Puerto Rican flavors but also the culture’s overall essence. There will be live bomba, drum circles and, of course, plenty of delicious vegan food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I want people to come and think this place feels like a home.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/casaborinquena/\">\u003ci>Casa Borinqueña\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will open at 6211 Shattuck Ave. in Oakland in late 2022. Starting on Nov. 3, Marquez-Nau will offer both dine-in and pick-up service Thursday through Saturday, 5 p.m.–10 p.m., at \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/plantedtable/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Planted Table\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (550 2nd St., Oakland).\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When you step inside Lourdes Marquez-Nau’s new restaurant, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/casaborinquena/\">Casa Borinqueña\u003c/a>, you’ll see Puerto Rican art hanging on its bright yellow walls, pilónes (indigenous wooden mortars) on the countertop and other cultural artifacts spread around the restaurant. You’ll see photographs that the chef captured — street scenes and beach landscapes in El Viejo San Juan and her hometown of Camuy. Even the restaurant’s logo is a statement of Puerto Rican pride: It’s a mock-up of Marquez-Nau’s grandmother’s home on the island.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What you won’t find at Casa Borinqueña, however, is any meat on the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since 2018, Marquez-Nau, who also goes by Chef Lulu, has offered vegan options at her pop-ups, especially after she adopted a vegan diet herself during the pandemic. But, the chef’s new North Oakland location will be a 100% plant-based Puerto Rican restaurant — the first of its kind in the Bay Area. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the classic image of a Puerto Rican meal, a hefty amount of juicy, marinated meat gets paired with rice and beans. Casa Borinqueña was no different when it first started out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At her pop-ups and catering gigs around the Bay Area, Marquez-Nau’s popular dishes included her arroz mamposteao (a Puerto Rican fried rice made with smoked ham or bacon) and her pernil, the cuisine’s famous slow-roasted marinated pork. These classics were some of the chef’s own childhood favorites, after all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the pandemic, however, Marquez-Nau started reflecting on her health and the way her body was feeling. “I just said, ‘It’s time to start cutting things out of my diet,’” Marquez-Nau shares. “It was about my health and me not being able to [simply] go to the gym.” Fast forward to 2020, and the chef cut all animal products out of her diet. For a while she still served meat dishes at her pop-up, but in time the chef felt it was important to have her business honestly reflect who she was. She decided to make Casa Borinqueña completely vegan. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920584\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920584\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_shrimp-mofongo.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of shrimp mofongo against a dark blue backdrop.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1536\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_shrimp-mofongo.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_shrimp-mofongo-800x640.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_shrimp-mofongo-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_shrimp-mofongo-160x128.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_shrimp-mofongo-768x614.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_shrimp-mofongo-1536x1229.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Lourdes Marquez-Nau says it’s the sofrito — not the meat — that provides the flavor to dishes like her shrimp mofongo, which she makes with plant-based shrimp. \u003ccite>(Nicola Parisi)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For Marquez-Nau, the process of veganizing traditionally Puerto Rican recipes hasn’t been as difficult as you might predict. She explains that the base of all Puerto Rican cuisine isn’t the meat itself but the sofrito — a mixture of herbs and vegetables combined with cooking oil to enhance the flavor of almost every dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Meat doesn’t have a flavor. We introduce the flavor,” says Marquez-Nau. “The texture of the meat may be different, but the flavor is there. It’s a matter of having the same approach [when cooking vegan food].” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chef still infuses each dish with sofrito and sources 75% of her ingredients from Puerto Rico. The only difference is that Marquez-Nau now uses meat alternatives like the soy-based ones made by Impossible Foods. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I wanted to stay traditional, so I treat vegan meat similar to how I would treat regular meat,” she shares. “Whatever [seasonings] I would use on my pork, I now use on my vegan pork.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920585\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920585\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_mofongo-burger.jpg\" alt=\"A vegan burger with mofongo (fried mashed plantains) serving as the bun.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2400\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_mofongo-burger.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_mofongo-burger-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_mofongo-burger-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_mofongo-burger-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_mofongo-burger-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_mofongo-burger-1229x1536.jpg 1229w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_mofongo-burger-1638x2048.jpg 1638w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The vegan burger features a mofongo “bun” and Impossible Foods plant-based beef patties. \u003ccite>(Nicola Parisi)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now that she has a brick-and-mortar restaurant, Marquez-Nau will expand Casa Borinqueña’s menu with new items such as plant-based pastelón (a multi-layered dish akin to a Puerto Rican plantain lasagna), coffee sourced from the island and a kind of sweet, coiled pastry called pan de Mallorca. She’ll also serve the creamy coconut drink known as a coquito — an alcohol-free version until the restaurant receives its beer-and-wine license.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Part of Marquez-Nau’s motivation in opening the restaurant is how common health issues like diabetes and high cholesterol are within the Latin American community, much of which doesn’t have access to healthcare. Genetics contribute to this, but Marquez-Nau believes excessive meat consumption is also a big factor. That’s why she’s dedicated to making her plant-based food accessible to everyone, especially communities of color. After all, vegan food can cost a pretty penny. In hopes of helping to bridge that gap, the restaurant will implement a “Pay What You Can Tuesday” when it will serve dishes on a voluntary donation basis. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s a huge disparity between healthy eating and communities of color because they can’t have access to healthy food,” says Marquez-Nau. “Why shouldn’t we give back as a vegan community?” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although her transition to becoming a vegan chef has had a positive effect on Marquez-Nau’s well-being, she has often felt unsupported by her community. The responses she received from Puerto Ricans ranged from “how dare you do this to Puerto Rican cuisine” to “your business isn’t going to be successful.” At times, she felt as though she had been rejected from her own culture. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It was just so negative. This was a difficult time in my life when I was going through a transition, and that feedback was really bad for me,” Marquez-Nau shares. “It had me questioning everything I was doing.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, the chef stayed devoted to her plant-based brainchild, and, as a silver lining, she found that she had been embraced by a new group of people: vegans. “I got away from that and moved forward,” the chef says. “Whoever respects me and welcomes me are my kind of people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920586\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920586\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_facade.jpg\" alt='Yellow facade of a restaurant, with a sign that reads \"Casa Borinqueña.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_facade.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_facade-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_facade-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_facade-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_facade-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/casa-borinquena_facade-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The logo for the restaurant is an image of Marquez-Nau’s grandmother’s house in Puerto Rico. \u003ccite>(Paloma Cortes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>For now, Marquez-Nau says, Casa Borinqueña is only being held back by the Alameda County Department of Environmental Health, which has kept the restaurant in limbo for the past six months. She’s hopeful, however, that she’ll be able to welcome the community into the space by the end of this year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, starting on Nov. 3, Casa Borinqueña will serve dinner three nights a week out of \u003ca href=\"https://plantedtable.com/\">Planted Table\u003c/a>, a plant-based meal delivery company based in Oakland’s Jack London neighborhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the restaurant is finally able to hold its grand opening, Marquez-Nau plans to invite locals to celebrate not just Puerto Rican flavors but also the culture’s overall essence. There will be live bomba, drum circles and, of course, plenty of delicious vegan food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I want people to come and think this place feels like a home.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/casaborinquena/\">\u003ci>Casa Borinqueña\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will open at 6211 Shattuck Ave. in Oakland in late 2022. Starting on Nov. 3, Marquez-Nau will offer both dine-in and pick-up service Thursday through Saturday, 5 p.m.–10 p.m., at \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/plantedtable/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Planted Table\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (550 2nd St., Oakland).\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "flor-martinez-zaragoza-instagram-influencer-activist-farm-workers-immigrants-daca-hella-hungry",
"title": "Meet The San Jose Influencer Using Her Platform to Support Farm Workers and Undocumented Immigrants",
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"headTitle": "Meet The San Jose Influencer Using Her Platform to Support Farm Workers and Undocumented Immigrants | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When most people think of Silicon Valley, they tend to think of the white-collar aspects — the self-driving Teslas, search engine startups and mega-billionaire corporations. But who is in those office buildings after hours, wiping down desks and taking out the trash? Who is cooking meals for campuses filled with six- and seven-figure earning employees? Who is tending the nearby fields and orchards? And why is \u003ca href=\"https://sanjosespotlight.com/joint-venture-report-highlights-silicon-valley-wealth-gaps-and-tech-booms-san-jose-santa-clara-county/\">the gap here between the affluent and working class, particularly in Spanish-speaking households\u003c/a>, among the worst in the nation?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flor Martinez Zaragoza, a 27-year-old activist, influencer and community advocate — probably best known for her Instagram account, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flowerinspanish/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">@flowerinspanish\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, where she has 128,000 followers — has long been acutely aware of those discrepancies. She grew up in San Martin, a small town 25 miles south of San Jose that felt worlds apart from the ritzy tech campuses of Apple, Facebook and Google. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Living outside of the city, there’s a crazy cultural difference driving around [Highway] 101,” she says. “It’s all farmworkers from Gilroy towards Salinas. Then you get to San Jose, Oakland, SF and it’s more industrial.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As an undocumented immigrant with \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11917125/bay-area-daca-recipients-have-mixed-emotions-on-10-year-anniversary\">Deferred Action for Childhood Arrivals\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (DACA) status, Martinez Zaragoza picked grapes for wineries during her summers as a teenager, along with her family. Throughout her life, she has had to toggle between being an undocumented Mexicana with deep Bay Area roots and just trying to make ends meet in one of the world’s most expensive places to live. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For immigrants like her, it can feel impossible to voice any concerns, as they’re largely overshadowed by the larger forces of Silicon Valley and being undocumented. But \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Martinez Zaragoza is no longer keeping quiet about her community’s needs. In 2020 — as wildfires swept across Northern California, putting thousands of mostly undocumented farm workers in harm’s way — she began using social media as a tool to educate others about the hardships of a workforce population that is, and has been, aggressively exploited. It’s where she comes from.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Since then, she has used her \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@flowerinspanish\">rising platform\u003c/a> to spotlight farm workers, undocumented business owners and independent, immigrant-owned restaurants around Northern and Central California. Her goal is to change California laws and improve pathways for thousands like her. I hung out with Flor at a few of her favorite restaurants around San Jo to learn more about her work and mission.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">********\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11923693/farmworkers-24-day-march-culminates-in-sacramento-pressuring-newsom-to-sign-union-bill\">\u003cb>You participated in a 24-day United Farm Workers march\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> that ended in Sacramento — a protest that successfully pressured Governor Gavin Newsom to sign \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://openstates.org/ca/bills/20212022/AB2183/\">\u003cb>a piece of legislation expanding farm workers’ union rights\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>. Can you tell us about that bill and your role in it?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The bill, AB 2183, is for farm workers to vote for union representation freely and fairly without fear of intimidation or threat from employers. Many of them are undocumented. They’ve been able to unionize before, but [in the past] they’ve been fearful about it. Many leaders who work in the field would be dismissed or fired [for their involvement]. They didn’t have much protection: They had to vote on site, in the field. But now this bill allows farm workers to vote from home and use their voice without being targeted. They’re the most vulnerable workforce in the nation. That bill passed right before they were about to go on strike.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How did you get involved in this work?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I migrated to the U.S. [from Jalisco, México] when I was three, but I’ve lived in the Bay Area for most of my life. I’ve mostly lived in Gilroy and San Martin, near Morgan Hill, and I moved to San Jose six years ago. I used to be a farm worker when I was 14 years old. I worked in Gilroy, Watsonville and Santa Cruz, picking wine grapes with my parents and sister. I did it for a couple summers and then I had to focus on high school and stopped working in the fields. My grandpa was a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://video.kqed.org/video/oregon-experience-the-braceros/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bracero\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, too. He worked in Lodi, where we [recently] marched through. My grandpa broke his rib when he was working, and they sent him back to México. No compensation. They’re still treated like that today. If a worker gets hurt on the job, they don’t have work insurance. They’re so undervalued — sprayed with pesticides, without representation. They don’t have the money to get health care. There are lots of Mexicanos and Central Americans in the fields. They’re undocumented. There’s no hazard pay.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/ChfIb_jFZhL/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your inspiration?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I was probably about 12 years old when I started advocating for immigration reform. My mom has always been a big advocate for educational rights for marginalized students. I would go to district meetings and events and use my English to speak for the women who only spoke in Spanish. I was their voice, and it introduced me to public speaking and advocating for others at an early age. Seeing my mom speaking broken English for women who spoke no English … that inspired me. They fought for charter schools to support students who didn’t know English — they would just get put into special ed, and it impacted their futures. A group of Latina moms fought for smaller classes with more attention and resources. And they won. I was a part of that. They sent me to Nashville and I was part of a leadership convention summit. I was the youngest one there with other leaders around the country. I learned how to be a voice and help my people. I’ve just been non-stop ever since.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How has social media helped you to share your messages and experiences with others?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s a tool that previous generations didn’t have. The bill that just passed for farmworkers was largely due to social media. The United Farm Workers introduced the bill, and the farmworkers supported it. Many people told me they learned about what was happening because of the content being put out on social media. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Flor Martinez Zaragoza\"]“There’s no reason those who feed us should be hungry. They’re the lowest paid workforce in the nation.”[/pullquote]If some of us didn’t go hard on social media, lots of people wouldn’t be aware. TikTok platforms allow younger generations to listen and tell their story and others can be more active. I’ve seen the immense difference in how this younger generation stands up and makes videos. It’s about the education of people and spreading the message as influencers on [social media]. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You’re vocal about supporting local businesses like \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tostadas.sj/\">\u003cb>Tostadas\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> and its sister restaurants, the coffeeshop \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/conazucarcafe/\">\u003cb>Con Azúcar Cafe\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> and the newly opened \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tostadasprime/\">\u003cb>Tostadas Prime\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>. What do you like about these restaurants?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These locations are Latino-owned. When we put money back into our communities instead of corporations, that’s a resource. Our communities don’t always have much of it. These places provide jobs for people, and they outsource their ingredients responsibly. Having a Latino coffee shop [like Con Azúcar] is important. There are thousands of Starbucks in San Jose. But you can go around the corner and keep the money in your community. These places are doing it responsibly and giving back. For example, they support my nonprofit, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://opencorporates.com/companies/us_ca/C4574861\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Celebration Nation Inc\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. We have had multiple times when they let me borrow equipment for my toy drive. We help each other, repost our stuff, anything we need from each other. The owners have \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11917125/bay-area-daca-recipients-have-mixed-emotions-on-10-year-anniversary\">DACA\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> like me.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tostadas is one of my favorite places. They’ve been around for a while. They have vegan options, and it’s very cultural. The pandemic took a hit on them, but they’re still around. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reel/CjtyUQrNYsG/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link\">Tostadas Prime\u003c/a>] is more luxury. If people order a certain dish, a percentage will go to a nonprofit and help farm workers. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These restaurants employ around 200 people. It’s important to put money back into our community. When we shop for food, it’s usually corporate. It’s a business and there are lots of chains. It takes a toll on our bodies and health. They’re mass producing on demand and introducing pesticides and poison. I’m vocal about eating organic. It helps us and the farm workers. Big corporations profit from us. We need to go back to how our ancestors were eating, harvesting whatever they could and sharing it with their neighbors, keeping it local and small batch. If San Jose had its own food system, that would be massive.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920530\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1928px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920530\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/flor-mural.jpg\" alt=\"A young Latina stands in front of a mural painted inside a restaurant, depicting two undocumented Latino brothers shaking hands\" width=\"1928\" height=\"1271\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/flor-mural.jpg 1928w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/flor-mural-800x527.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/flor-mural-1020x672.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/flor-mural-160x105.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/flor-mural-768x506.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/flor-mural-1536x1013.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/flor-mural-1920x1266.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1928px) 100vw, 1928px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of Martinez Zaragoza’s favorite restaurants, Tostadas, is owned by DACA recipient brothers Alex and Victor Garcia, portrayed here in a mural. \u003ccite>(Jordan Hayes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You mentioned your nonprofit. Tell us more about it.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I started a nonprofit [\u003ca href=\"https://www.celebration-nation.org/\">Celebration Nation\u003c/a>] to support farm workers. We have a food bank program for them. We serve about 10,000 workers every month, across six towns in California. It’s volunteer-run. It’s basically to fill the gap around food insecurity with farm workers. There’s no reason those who feed us should be hungry. They’re the lowest paid workforce in the nation. Their families suffer. [They usually get served] food that lacks nutrition, which leads to health issues in the future. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We serve different languages, including Triqui and Mixtec. We have translators to prevent language barriers for accessing food banks. There are lots of reasons that farm workers get excluded from assistance. Having worked in the field helps me to get trust and know what’s going on. I went viral in 2020 during the fires, smoke, heat waves, pandemic. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CDzEYHhpbEC/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I expressed my frustration during the conditions\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CEGjH1_pNjz/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link\">I was telling people to pick their own vegetables\u003c/a>. I used to be a worker so I have insight into the details.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our next project is creating an educational program accessible on Web.3 and we will be utilizing blockchain technology to educate marginalized youth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You currently have \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11917125/bay-area-daca-recipients-have-mixed-emotions-on-10-year-anniversary\">\u003cb>DACA\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>. How has that impacted your life?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It has honestly helped me so much. It allowed me to get a driver’s license and a Social Security number. It shielded me from deportation. It lets me go about my day more comfortably. I have to renew it every two years. Having [Social Security] literally allows me to do business, to apply for loans, to apply for government grants. During the pandemic my event company was able to get a government grant because of my social. Also, I was able to get a stimulus check, unlike many farm workers who are undocumented. It definitely changed my life, and it sucks that it’s not available for more people. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CjV0S5PJM9k/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">DACA stopped accepting new applicants about two years ago. Trump was pushing the issue, trying to get rid of it every year. He left a lasting impact on the status of DACA, and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.texastribune.org/2021/07/16/new-article-1626468650daca-texas-judge/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a Texas judge ended applications\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. DACA doesn’t exist for the new generation. This month we’re waiting to see what happens — they’re supposed to \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2022/10/05/1127107147/an-appeals-court-rules-against-daca-but-the-program-continues-for-now\">share new information\u003c/a>. There is so much uncertainty, it sucks. We work for our communities, we’re contributing to the economy, doing our part for San Jose, providing jobs. This is people’s livelihoods. It’s about making an impact on the city, state, nation. We’re dreamers but we don’t sleep. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are you currently working on, and what’s on your mind?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13918088,arts_13920076,arts_13919032']I have a food company that’s coming soon. I haven’t announced it officially yet, but we’re going to sell chiles secos, spices, nuts and cultura from México. It’ll have its roots in México.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At the end of the day I have DACA. I have to create my own path and be in control of my future. I have to make choices that help me and my community. DACA and immigration reform are important. Immigration reform could help 11 to 12 million people, including our parents and the next generation. I organize rallies in San Jose and collaborate with other social justice groups like \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pactsj.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">PACT [People Acting in Community Together]\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. They’ve always included me and my mom. She’s in Mexico now and can’t come back. But when she was here she had a community with PACT and had an outlet to advocate as an immigrant mom. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I try to provide that for women in my nonprofit. We’re run by moms and volunteers. They have a community and they throw their own parties. I like to lead the way when I can and step up. I wouldn’t change it. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flor’s work can be seen \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flowerinspanish/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">online\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and at her nonprofit, \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.celebration-nation.org/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Celebration Nation\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (3031 Tisch Way, 110 Plaza West, San Jose). \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/conazucarcafe/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Con Azúcar Cafe\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is open M–F from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sat.–Sun. 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. (101 E Santa Clara St., San Jose). Tostadas has two locations in San Jose and a newly opened Tostadas Prime in Santa Clara. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tostadas.sj/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Check their page\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for updates. Special thanks to \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/imrealbasic/\">Jordan Hayes\u003c/a> for his photography and videography.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "Meet The San Jose Influencer Using Her Platform to Support Farm Workers and Undocumented Immigrants | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When most people think of Silicon Valley, they tend to think of the white-collar aspects — the self-driving Teslas, search engine startups and mega-billionaire corporations. But who is in those office buildings after hours, wiping down desks and taking out the trash? Who is cooking meals for campuses filled with six- and seven-figure earning employees? Who is tending the nearby fields and orchards? And why is \u003ca href=\"https://sanjosespotlight.com/joint-venture-report-highlights-silicon-valley-wealth-gaps-and-tech-booms-san-jose-santa-clara-county/\">the gap here between the affluent and working class, particularly in Spanish-speaking households\u003c/a>, among the worst in the nation?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flor Martinez Zaragoza, a 27-year-old activist, influencer and community advocate — probably best known for her Instagram account, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flowerinspanish/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">@flowerinspanish\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, where she has 128,000 followers — has long been acutely aware of those discrepancies. She grew up in San Martin, a small town 25 miles south of San Jose that felt worlds apart from the ritzy tech campuses of Apple, Facebook and Google. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Living outside of the city, there’s a crazy cultural difference driving around [Highway] 101,” she says. “It’s all farmworkers from Gilroy towards Salinas. Then you get to San Jose, Oakland, SF and it’s more industrial.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As an undocumented immigrant with \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11917125/bay-area-daca-recipients-have-mixed-emotions-on-10-year-anniversary\">Deferred Action for Childhood Arrivals\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (DACA) status, Martinez Zaragoza picked grapes for wineries during her summers as a teenager, along with her family. Throughout her life, she has had to toggle between being an undocumented Mexicana with deep Bay Area roots and just trying to make ends meet in one of the world’s most expensive places to live. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For immigrants like her, it can feel impossible to voice any concerns, as they’re largely overshadowed by the larger forces of Silicon Valley and being undocumented. But \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Martinez Zaragoza is no longer keeping quiet about her community’s needs. In 2020 — as wildfires swept across Northern California, putting thousands of mostly undocumented farm workers in harm’s way — she began using social media as a tool to educate others about the hardships of a workforce population that is, and has been, aggressively exploited. It’s where she comes from.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Since then, she has used her \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@flowerinspanish\">rising platform\u003c/a> to spotlight farm workers, undocumented business owners and independent, immigrant-owned restaurants around Northern and Central California. Her goal is to change California laws and improve pathways for thousands like her. I hung out with Flor at a few of her favorite restaurants around San Jo to learn more about her work and mission.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">********\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11923693/farmworkers-24-day-march-culminates-in-sacramento-pressuring-newsom-to-sign-union-bill\">\u003cb>You participated in a 24-day United Farm Workers march\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> that ended in Sacramento — a protest that successfully pressured Governor Gavin Newsom to sign \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://openstates.org/ca/bills/20212022/AB2183/\">\u003cb>a piece of legislation expanding farm workers’ union rights\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>. Can you tell us about that bill and your role in it?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The bill, AB 2183, is for farm workers to vote for union representation freely and fairly without fear of intimidation or threat from employers. Many of them are undocumented. They’ve been able to unionize before, but [in the past] they’ve been fearful about it. Many leaders who work in the field would be dismissed or fired [for their involvement]. They didn’t have much protection: They had to vote on site, in the field. But now this bill allows farm workers to vote from home and use their voice without being targeted. They’re the most vulnerable workforce in the nation. That bill passed right before they were about to go on strike.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How did you get involved in this work?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I migrated to the U.S. [from Jalisco, México] when I was three, but I’ve lived in the Bay Area for most of my life. I’ve mostly lived in Gilroy and San Martin, near Morgan Hill, and I moved to San Jose six years ago. I used to be a farm worker when I was 14 years old. I worked in Gilroy, Watsonville and Santa Cruz, picking wine grapes with my parents and sister. I did it for a couple summers and then I had to focus on high school and stopped working in the fields. My grandpa was a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://video.kqed.org/video/oregon-experience-the-braceros/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bracero\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, too. He worked in Lodi, where we [recently] marched through. My grandpa broke his rib when he was working, and they sent him back to México. No compensation. They’re still treated like that today. If a worker gets hurt on the job, they don’t have work insurance. They’re so undervalued — sprayed with pesticides, without representation. They don’t have the money to get health care. There are lots of Mexicanos and Central Americans in the fields. They’re undocumented. There’s no hazard pay.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your inspiration?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I was probably about 12 years old when I started advocating for immigration reform. My mom has always been a big advocate for educational rights for marginalized students. I would go to district meetings and events and use my English to speak for the women who only spoke in Spanish. I was their voice, and it introduced me to public speaking and advocating for others at an early age. Seeing my mom speaking broken English for women who spoke no English … that inspired me. They fought for charter schools to support students who didn’t know English — they would just get put into special ed, and it impacted their futures. A group of Latina moms fought for smaller classes with more attention and resources. And they won. I was a part of that. They sent me to Nashville and I was part of a leadership convention summit. I was the youngest one there with other leaders around the country. I learned how to be a voice and help my people. I’ve just been non-stop ever since.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How has social media helped you to share your messages and experiences with others?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s a tool that previous generations didn’t have. The bill that just passed for farmworkers was largely due to social media. The United Farm Workers introduced the bill, and the farmworkers supported it. Many people told me they learned about what was happening because of the content being put out on social media. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "“There’s no reason those who feed us should be hungry. They’re the lowest paid workforce in the nation.”",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>If some of us didn’t go hard on social media, lots of people wouldn’t be aware. TikTok platforms allow younger generations to listen and tell their story and others can be more active. I’ve seen the immense difference in how this younger generation stands up and makes videos. It’s about the education of people and spreading the message as influencers on [social media]. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You’re vocal about supporting local businesses like \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tostadas.sj/\">\u003cb>Tostadas\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> and its sister restaurants, the coffeeshop \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/conazucarcafe/\">\u003cb>Con Azúcar Cafe\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> and the newly opened \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tostadasprime/\">\u003cb>Tostadas Prime\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>. What do you like about these restaurants?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These locations are Latino-owned. When we put money back into our communities instead of corporations, that’s a resource. Our communities don’t always have much of it. These places provide jobs for people, and they outsource their ingredients responsibly. Having a Latino coffee shop [like Con Azúcar] is important. There are thousands of Starbucks in San Jose. But you can go around the corner and keep the money in your community. These places are doing it responsibly and giving back. For example, they support my nonprofit, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://opencorporates.com/companies/us_ca/C4574861\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Celebration Nation Inc\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. We have had multiple times when they let me borrow equipment for my toy drive. We help each other, repost our stuff, anything we need from each other. The owners have \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11917125/bay-area-daca-recipients-have-mixed-emotions-on-10-year-anniversary\">DACA\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> like me.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tostadas is one of my favorite places. They’ve been around for a while. They have vegan options, and it’s very cultural. The pandemic took a hit on them, but they’re still around. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reel/CjtyUQrNYsG/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link\">Tostadas Prime\u003c/a>] is more luxury. If people order a certain dish, a percentage will go to a nonprofit and help farm workers. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These restaurants employ around 200 people. It’s important to put money back into our community. When we shop for food, it’s usually corporate. It’s a business and there are lots of chains. It takes a toll on our bodies and health. They’re mass producing on demand and introducing pesticides and poison. I’m vocal about eating organic. It helps us and the farm workers. Big corporations profit from us. We need to go back to how our ancestors were eating, harvesting whatever they could and sharing it with their neighbors, keeping it local and small batch. If San Jose had its own food system, that would be massive.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920530\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1928px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920530\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/flor-mural.jpg\" alt=\"A young Latina stands in front of a mural painted inside a restaurant, depicting two undocumented Latino brothers shaking hands\" width=\"1928\" height=\"1271\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/flor-mural.jpg 1928w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/flor-mural-800x527.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/flor-mural-1020x672.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/flor-mural-160x105.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/flor-mural-768x506.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/flor-mural-1536x1013.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/flor-mural-1920x1266.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1928px) 100vw, 1928px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of Martinez Zaragoza’s favorite restaurants, Tostadas, is owned by DACA recipient brothers Alex and Victor Garcia, portrayed here in a mural. \u003ccite>(Jordan Hayes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You mentioned your nonprofit. Tell us more about it.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I started a nonprofit [\u003ca href=\"https://www.celebration-nation.org/\">Celebration Nation\u003c/a>] to support farm workers. We have a food bank program for them. We serve about 10,000 workers every month, across six towns in California. It’s volunteer-run. It’s basically to fill the gap around food insecurity with farm workers. There’s no reason those who feed us should be hungry. They’re the lowest paid workforce in the nation. Their families suffer. [They usually get served] food that lacks nutrition, which leads to health issues in the future. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We serve different languages, including Triqui and Mixtec. We have translators to prevent language barriers for accessing food banks. There are lots of reasons that farm workers get excluded from assistance. Having worked in the field helps me to get trust and know what’s going on. I went viral in 2020 during the fires, smoke, heat waves, pandemic. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CDzEYHhpbEC/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I expressed my frustration during the conditions\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CEGjH1_pNjz/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link\">I was telling people to pick their own vegetables\u003c/a>. I used to be a worker so I have insight into the details.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our next project is creating an educational program accessible on Web.3 and we will be utilizing blockchain technology to educate marginalized youth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You currently have \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11917125/bay-area-daca-recipients-have-mixed-emotions-on-10-year-anniversary\">\u003cb>DACA\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>. How has that impacted your life?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It has honestly helped me so much. It allowed me to get a driver’s license and a Social Security number. It shielded me from deportation. It lets me go about my day more comfortably. I have to renew it every two years. Having [Social Security] literally allows me to do business, to apply for loans, to apply for government grants. During the pandemic my event company was able to get a government grant because of my social. Also, I was able to get a stimulus check, unlike many farm workers who are undocumented. It definitely changed my life, and it sucks that it’s not available for more people. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">DACA stopped accepting new applicants about two years ago. Trump was pushing the issue, trying to get rid of it every year. He left a lasting impact on the status of DACA, and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.texastribune.org/2021/07/16/new-article-1626468650daca-texas-judge/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a Texas judge ended applications\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. DACA doesn’t exist for the new generation. This month we’re waiting to see what happens — they’re supposed to \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2022/10/05/1127107147/an-appeals-court-rules-against-daca-but-the-program-continues-for-now\">share new information\u003c/a>. There is so much uncertainty, it sucks. We work for our communities, we’re contributing to the economy, doing our part for San Jose, providing jobs. This is people’s livelihoods. It’s about making an impact on the city, state, nation. We’re dreamers but we don’t sleep. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are you currently working on, and what’s on your mind?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>I have a food company that’s coming soon. I haven’t announced it officially yet, but we’re going to sell chiles secos, spices, nuts and cultura from México. It’ll have its roots in México.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At the end of the day I have DACA. I have to create my own path and be in control of my future. I have to make choices that help me and my community. DACA and immigration reform are important. Immigration reform could help 11 to 12 million people, including our parents and the next generation. I organize rallies in San Jose and collaborate with other social justice groups like \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pactsj.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">PACT [People Acting in Community Together]\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. They’ve always included me and my mom. She’s in Mexico now and can’t come back. But when she was here she had a community with PACT and had an outlet to advocate as an immigrant mom. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I try to provide that for women in my nonprofit. We’re run by moms and volunteers. They have a community and they throw their own parties. I like to lead the way when I can and step up. I wouldn’t change it. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flor’s work can be seen \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flowerinspanish/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">online\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and at her nonprofit, \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.celebration-nation.org/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Celebration Nation\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (3031 Tisch Way, 110 Plaza West, San Jose). \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/conazucarcafe/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Con Azúcar Cafe\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is open M–F from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sat.–Sun. 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. (101 E Santa Clara St., San Jose). Tostadas has two locations in San Jose and a newly opened Tostadas Prime in Santa Clara. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tostadas.sj/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Check their page\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for updates. Special thanks to \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/imrealbasic/\">Jordan Hayes\u003c/a> for his photography and videography.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "2 Bay Area Bakers Create a Life-Size Han Solo Out of Bread",
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"content": "\u003cp>Han Solo may be a hunk, but “Pan Solo” is a hunk of bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s what a Bay Area bakery has dubbed its 6-foot bread sculpture of the \u003cem>Star Wars\u003c/em> character, as he appeared after being frozen in carbonite in \u003cem>The Empire Strikes Back\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='pop_83529']Hannalee Pervan and her mother, Catherine Pervan, co-owners of One House Bakery in Benicia, Calif., spent weeks molding, baking and assembling the life-sized sculpture using wood and two types of dough, including a type of yeastless dough with a higher sugar content that will last longer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The two worked at night, after the day’s business was done. The lovingly crafted details show Han Solo’s anguished face and his hands straining to reach out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hannalee said she might have gotten a bit obsessed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Mom made me leave it because I was obsessing over the lips,” Hannalee told the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2022/10/15/us/han-solo-bakery-sculpture.html?unlocked_article_code=R-Cn0eT33hXSF6Y3DIH2QVZp8Xgpo2nP2oVyFtYuq04jaPre1HHH-OqLzOdv_PuLpT5rF8M58jP5AhB38aBbDCvPCpfkAEDipm6r8ubdQrzbCEf-SkI8knBUHEBvgB3_hGZKwvaXruey8lR_jvdTxg5J_c6xWdPzDtzkmw9DvlasGTWv9CRATWD7T7NhxXQw_y_qCW7Q2JhOMIvQeeOSUaw9LxOAC9cNOZi30QT6glDt-jfnIPTKvLci0dNNH6ZOEmHYNOasVMlY03eftbHHT1yiCxLX45Z_zv8xfsDGg1zHqQbboyxkJupncF8BvBeIT5Z7grIPgNilZbMBeQ&smid=share-url\">\u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. “She was like, ‘You need to walk away.’ ”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920464\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13920464\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/ap22289699524752_wide-c27b0fb84aeed52fcfb3ce9bdafd41a2afb3dd90-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"A detailed sideview of a sculpture of 'Star Wars' character Han Solo, made out of bread.\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Catherine Pervan, co-owner of One House Bakery, told her daughter Hannalee she was obsessing over Pan Solo’s lips. \u003ccite>(Jose Carlos Fajardo/Bay Area News Group via AP)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Creating Pan Solo was particularly meaningful, Hannalee told the paper, because she contracted COVID-19 in January 2021 and lost much of her senses of smell and taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“So just to find joy in a different part of food is really important,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sculpture is now on display outside of the bakery, located about a half-hour’s drive north of San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13889379']Pan Solo is the bakery’s entry in the annual Downtown Benicia Main Street Scarecrow Contest. The public will get to vote on their favorites from among more than two dozen creations entered by local businesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Pervans, who are big science-fiction and fantasy fans, entered another \u003cem>Star Wars\u003c/em>-themed creation in 2020 featuring the Mandalorian and Baby Yoda.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, Pan Solo won’t last forever. The dough eventually will be composted, not eaten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So as a wise Jedi might warn: Don’t use the forks, Luke.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">\u003cem>Copyright 2022 NPR. To see more, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">visit NPR\u003c/a>.\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=2+California+bakers+create+a+life-size+Han+Solo+out+of+bread&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/em>\u003c/div>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Mom made me leave it because I was obsessing over the lips,” Hannalee told the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2022/10/15/us/han-solo-bakery-sculpture.html?unlocked_article_code=R-Cn0eT33hXSF6Y3DIH2QVZp8Xgpo2nP2oVyFtYuq04jaPre1HHH-OqLzOdv_PuLpT5rF8M58jP5AhB38aBbDCvPCpfkAEDipm6r8ubdQrzbCEf-SkI8knBUHEBvgB3_hGZKwvaXruey8lR_jvdTxg5J_c6xWdPzDtzkmw9DvlasGTWv9CRATWD7T7NhxXQw_y_qCW7Q2JhOMIvQeeOSUaw9LxOAC9cNOZi30QT6glDt-jfnIPTKvLci0dNNH6ZOEmHYNOasVMlY03eftbHHT1yiCxLX45Z_zv8xfsDGg1zHqQbboyxkJupncF8BvBeIT5Z7grIPgNilZbMBeQ&smid=share-url\">\u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. “She was like, ‘You need to walk away.’ ”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920464\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13920464\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/ap22289699524752_wide-c27b0fb84aeed52fcfb3ce9bdafd41a2afb3dd90-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"A detailed sideview of a sculpture of 'Star Wars' character Han Solo, made out of bread.\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Catherine Pervan, co-owner of One House Bakery, told her daughter Hannalee she was obsessing over Pan Solo’s lips. \u003ccite>(Jose Carlos Fajardo/Bay Area News Group via AP)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Creating Pan Solo was particularly meaningful, Hannalee told the paper, because she contracted COVID-19 in January 2021 and lost much of her senses of smell and taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“So just to find joy in a different part of food is really important,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sculpture is now on display outside of the bakery, located about a half-hour’s drive north of San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Pan Solo is the bakery’s entry in the annual Downtown Benicia Main Street Scarecrow Contest. The public will get to vote on their favorites from among more than two dozen creations entered by local businesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Pervans, who are big science-fiction and fantasy fans, entered another \u003cem>Star Wars\u003c/em>-themed creation in 2020 featuring the Mandalorian and Baby Yoda.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, Pan Solo won’t last forever. The dough eventually will be composted, not eaten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So as a wise Jedi might warn: Don’t use the forks, Luke.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">\u003cem>Copyright 2022 NPR. To see more, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">visit NPR\u003c/a>.\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=2+California+bakers+create+a+life-size+Han+Solo+out+of+bread&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/em>\u003c/div>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Photo Exhibit Celebrates the Original Kasper's, a Unique Corner of Oakland History",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There aren’t many old-school, immigrant-built, onion-slinging hot dog spots left in Oakland. But for anyone who grew up \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">in the East Bay, Kasper’s (along with \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://themonthly.com/kilduff1904/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">family rival business, Casper’s\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">) has long been an unrivaled hot dog institution — rugged and reliable, like the blue-collar workers it has fed throughout the years.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And perhaps no other Kasper’s venue is as distinctly recognizable as the “Original Kasper’s” — a tiny, triangular outpost on 4521 Telegraph Ave. in Oakland.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Even though the Temescal location closed its doors in 2003, it has remained as an iconic reminder of the area’s food and architectural history. Indeed, the uniquely located and oddly undersized flatiron building — originally a gas station — has endured for nearly two decades without any indication of what would happen next. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">During that time, graffiti artists have turned it into a de facto outdoor gallery, nearby high-rise apartments have multiplied around it and rent prices in the zip code have skyrocketed.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The history of the building itself isn’t hard to find, but the mystery of why the owner let it sit there for 14 years was intriguing,” says \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.malcolmryder.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Malcolm Ryder\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a local photographer who has documented the building’s transformation since 2015. “As time went by, I paid more attention. The changes became the subject matter.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">What results from Ryder’s obsession is a photo exhibit, playfully titled \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://events.com/r/en_US/registration/13-ways-of-looking-at-kaspers-photo-series-opening-oakland-october-860362\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Thirteen Ways of Looking at Kasper’s,”\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> which will debut at the Oakland Public Library’s Temescal branch on Saturday, Oct. 15. Created in partnership with Oakland-based writer Constance Hale, the exhibit serves as an invitation for residents to engage with the many flavors and iterations of the iconic (and often neglected) Original Kasper’s.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920347\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13920347\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_be_safe_malcolm_ryder-800x1610.jpg\" alt=\"a side profile of the oddly shaped flatiron Kasper's building shows the thin, graffiti-covered corner of the iconic Oakland building\" width=\"800\" height=\"1610\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_be_safe_malcolm_ryder-800x1610.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_be_safe_malcolm_ryder-1020x2052.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_be_safe_malcolm_ryder-160x322.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_be_safe_malcolm_ryder-768x1545.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_be_safe_malcolm_ryder-763x1536.jpg 763w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_be_safe_malcolm_ryder-1018x2048.jpg 1018w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_be_safe_malcolm_ryder-scaled.jpg 1272w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Original Kasper’s is known for its unique location and flatiron dimensions. \u003ccite>(Malcolm Ryder)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The series of shots, which span roughly seven years, are part of “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.oaktown.pictures/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Oaktown\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,” a macro project that Ryder is compiling to trace the evolution of local spaces and businesses in the city. By zooming in on the ghost of Kasper’s on Telegraph, he’s putting larger questions about politics, social access, homelessness and public space into focus.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">One of his photographs, “Golden Arches,” is framed in a way that accentuates Kasper’s graffiti-splashed walls with a makeshift shelter of boxes and discarded materials on the side while the corporate symbol of a McDonald’s arch peeks out from across the street. From that angle, it’s hard to miss the discrepancy of economic realities and food access that has troubled Bay Area cities like Oakland in times of gentrification and residential displacement.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13920137,arts_13918017,arts_13894423']The whole series reminds viewers that Kasper’s is more than a place that used to (and will soon again) serve hot dogs. It’s about connectivity to home, about representation and preservation, about feeding a sense of communal pride.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In addition to honoring the longtime hot dog institution through a variety of poetic perspectives placed above the library’s bookshelves, the exhibit’s opening day event will include a slew of guests and hands-on activities. From Delency Parham (the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/hellablackpodcast\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Tales of the Town” podcast\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> maker of oral histories for Black Oaklanders) to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.commonsarchive.net/hearhere-community-billboard\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hear Here Community Billboard\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (a roving vintage truck that displays local information for North Oakland residents), visitors will not only get to see Ryder’s documentation of Kasper’s but will also interact with the neighborhood’s current influencers and tastemakers. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Among the afternoon’s other highlights, a coloring book page of Kasper’s will be provided, allowing guests to interact with the building’s walls in the way graffiti artists have done in the past. And if those ingredients aren’t enough to appetize visitors, guests will have the chance to move actual pieces of the Kasper’s wall that were torn down for renovation and reassemble them, like a life-size jigsaw puzzle.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We hope we can get others to pay more attention to what may otherwise be perceived as blight or vandalism and to see the stories of those who have lived or eaten here,” Hale says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920348\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13920348\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_portrait_alan_chazaro-800x534.jpg\" alt=\"exhibit organizers, Connie Hale (left) and Malcolm Ryder (right), stand proudly in front of the current Kasper's building in Oakland\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_portrait_alan_chazaro-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_portrait_alan_chazaro-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_portrait_alan_chazaro-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_portrait_alan_chazaro-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_portrait_alan_chazaro-1536x1025.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_portrait_alan_chazaro-1920x1281.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_portrait_alan_chazaro.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Connie Hale (left) and Malcolm Ryder (right) stand in front of Original Kasper’s on Telegraph Ave. in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though exhibit organizers Ryder and Hale hoped to get Kasper’s hot dogs served at the event, they were unable to convince Kasper’s to supply the goods. Fans of the local chain can look forward to an even better consolation prize, however: The Temescal Kasper’s will reopen later this fall under the ownership of John and Vince Traverso, two brothers who own and operate \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2015/1/13/7540931/kingfish-pub-oakland-moving-video\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the relocated Kingfish Pub\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> a few blocks away.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We want to keep it as original as possible with an updated code in the 21st century,” John Traverso tells me while serving an IPA at the nearby pub.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The reopened North Oakland venue will be the fifth Kasper’s in the Bay, with other locations in East Oakland, San Lorenzo, Castro Valley and Concord.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Once that moment arrives, I know my wife—a lifetime Kasper’s and Casper’s loyalist—and I will be among the first in line to get served.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://events.com/r/en_US/registration/13-ways-of-looking-at-kaspers-photo-series-opening-oakland-october-860362\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Thirteen Ways of Looking at Kasper’s”\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> will debut at the Oakland Public Library Temescal Branch (5205 Telegraph Ave., Oakland) on Saturday, Oct. 15 from 2 to 6 p.m. The photos will be on display until Jan. 15. Free.\u003c/span>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "As the iconic hot dog shop prepares to reopen, photographer Malcolm Ryder documents the evolution of the building and the neighborhood around it.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There aren’t many old-school, immigrant-built, onion-slinging hot dog spots left in Oakland. But for anyone who grew up \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">in the East Bay, Kasper’s (along with \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://themonthly.com/kilduff1904/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">family rival business, Casper’s\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">) has long been an unrivaled hot dog institution — rugged and reliable, like the blue-collar workers it has fed throughout the years.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And perhaps no other Kasper’s venue is as distinctly recognizable as the “Original Kasper’s” — a tiny, triangular outpost on 4521 Telegraph Ave. in Oakland.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Even though the Temescal location closed its doors in 2003, it has remained as an iconic reminder of the area’s food and architectural history. Indeed, the uniquely located and oddly undersized flatiron building — originally a gas station — has endured for nearly two decades without any indication of what would happen next. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">During that time, graffiti artists have turned it into a de facto outdoor gallery, nearby high-rise apartments have multiplied around it and rent prices in the zip code have skyrocketed.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The history of the building itself isn’t hard to find, but the mystery of why the owner let it sit there for 14 years was intriguing,” says \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.malcolmryder.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Malcolm Ryder\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a local photographer who has documented the building’s transformation since 2015. “As time went by, I paid more attention. The changes became the subject matter.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">What results from Ryder’s obsession is a photo exhibit, playfully titled \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://events.com/r/en_US/registration/13-ways-of-looking-at-kaspers-photo-series-opening-oakland-october-860362\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Thirteen Ways of Looking at Kasper’s,”\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> which will debut at the Oakland Public Library’s Temescal branch on Saturday, Oct. 15. Created in partnership with Oakland-based writer Constance Hale, the exhibit serves as an invitation for residents to engage with the many flavors and iterations of the iconic (and often neglected) Original Kasper’s.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920347\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13920347\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_be_safe_malcolm_ryder-800x1610.jpg\" alt=\"a side profile of the oddly shaped flatiron Kasper's building shows the thin, graffiti-covered corner of the iconic Oakland building\" width=\"800\" height=\"1610\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_be_safe_malcolm_ryder-800x1610.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_be_safe_malcolm_ryder-1020x2052.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_be_safe_malcolm_ryder-160x322.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_be_safe_malcolm_ryder-768x1545.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_be_safe_malcolm_ryder-763x1536.jpg 763w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_be_safe_malcolm_ryder-1018x2048.jpg 1018w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_be_safe_malcolm_ryder-scaled.jpg 1272w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Original Kasper’s is known for its unique location and flatiron dimensions. \u003ccite>(Malcolm Ryder)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The series of shots, which span roughly seven years, are part of “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.oaktown.pictures/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Oaktown\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,” a macro project that Ryder is compiling to trace the evolution of local spaces and businesses in the city. By zooming in on the ghost of Kasper’s on Telegraph, he’s putting larger questions about politics, social access, homelessness and public space into focus.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">One of his photographs, “Golden Arches,” is framed in a way that accentuates Kasper’s graffiti-splashed walls with a makeshift shelter of boxes and discarded materials on the side while the corporate symbol of a McDonald’s arch peeks out from across the street. From that angle, it’s hard to miss the discrepancy of economic realities and food access that has troubled Bay Area cities like Oakland in times of gentrification and residential displacement.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>The whole series reminds viewers that Kasper’s is more than a place that used to (and will soon again) serve hot dogs. It’s about connectivity to home, about representation and preservation, about feeding a sense of communal pride.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In addition to honoring the longtime hot dog institution through a variety of poetic perspectives placed above the library’s bookshelves, the exhibit’s opening day event will include a slew of guests and hands-on activities. From Delency Parham (the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/hellablackpodcast\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Tales of the Town” podcast\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> maker of oral histories for Black Oaklanders) to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.commonsarchive.net/hearhere-community-billboard\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hear Here Community Billboard\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (a roving vintage truck that displays local information for North Oakland residents), visitors will not only get to see Ryder’s documentation of Kasper’s but will also interact with the neighborhood’s current influencers and tastemakers. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Among the afternoon’s other highlights, a coloring book page of Kasper’s will be provided, allowing guests to interact with the building’s walls in the way graffiti artists have done in the past. And if those ingredients aren’t enough to appetize visitors, guests will have the chance to move actual pieces of the Kasper’s wall that were torn down for renovation and reassemble them, like a life-size jigsaw puzzle.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We hope we can get others to pay more attention to what may otherwise be perceived as blight or vandalism and to see the stories of those who have lived or eaten here,” Hale says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920348\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13920348\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_portrait_alan_chazaro-800x534.jpg\" alt=\"exhibit organizers, Connie Hale (left) and Malcolm Ryder (right), stand proudly in front of the current Kasper's building in Oakland\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_portrait_alan_chazaro-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_portrait_alan_chazaro-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_portrait_alan_chazaro-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_portrait_alan_chazaro-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_portrait_alan_chazaro-1536x1025.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_portrait_alan_chazaro-1920x1281.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/kaspers_portrait_alan_chazaro.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Connie Hale (left) and Malcolm Ryder (right) stand in front of Original Kasper’s on Telegraph Ave. in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though exhibit organizers Ryder and Hale hoped to get Kasper’s hot dogs served at the event, they were unable to convince Kasper’s to supply the goods. Fans of the local chain can look forward to an even better consolation prize, however: The Temescal Kasper’s will reopen later this fall under the ownership of John and Vince Traverso, two brothers who own and operate \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2015/1/13/7540931/kingfish-pub-oakland-moving-video\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the relocated Kingfish Pub\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> a few blocks away.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We want to keep it as original as possible with an updated code in the 21st century,” John Traverso tells me while serving an IPA at the nearby pub.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The reopened North Oakland venue will be the fifth Kasper’s in the Bay, with other locations in East Oakland, San Lorenzo, Castro Valley and Concord.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Once that moment arrives, I know my wife—a lifetime Kasper’s and Casper’s loyalist—and I will be among the first in line to get served.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://events.com/r/en_US/registration/13-ways-of-looking-at-kaspers-photo-series-opening-oakland-october-860362\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Thirteen Ways of Looking at Kasper’s”\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> will debut at the Oakland Public Library Temescal Branch (5205 Telegraph Ave., Oakland) on Saturday, Oct. 15 from 2 to 6 p.m. The photos will be on display until Jan. 15. Free.\u003c/span>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Why Everyone is Talking About Negroni Sbagliato — And How to Make Your Own",
"headTitle": "Why Everyone is Talking About Negroni Sbagliato — And How to Make Your Own | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>Move over, Aperol spritz. The reign of Negroni sbagliato has just begun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cocktail — made with Campari, sweet vermouth, and sparkling wine instead of the traditional gin — has taken over social media, thanks to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@hbomax/video/7149523510589754670?_r=1&_t=8WQ7RsdTACM&is_from_webapp=v1&item_id=7149523510589754670\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">behind-the-scenes interview\u003c/a> promoting \u003cem>House of the Dragon\u003c/em> on HBO’s TikTok account.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"tiktok-embed\" style=\"max-width: 605px;min-width: 325px\" cite=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@hbomax/video/7149523510589754670\" data-video-id=\"7149523510589754670\">\n\u003csection>\u003ca title=\"@hbomax\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@hbomax?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">@hbomax\u003c/a> I’ll take one of each. \u003ca title=\"houseofthedragon\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/tag/houseofthedragon?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">#houseofthedragon\u003c/a> \u003ca title=\"♬ a negroni sbagliato w prosecco l hbo max - hbomax\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/music/a-negroni-sbagliato-w-prosecco-l-hbo-max-7149523537730997035?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">♬ a negroni sbagliato w prosecco l hbo max – hbomax\u003c/a>\u003c/section>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>[tiktok]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the clip, stars Emma D’Arcy and Olivia Cooke — who play the feuding Princess Rhaenyra and Queen Alicent respectively — are asking each other about their drink of choice in real life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>D’Arcy, who’s nonbinary, says they prefer a Negroni, before adding “\u003cem>sbagliato\u003c/em>” in their signature breathy voice. The actor then raises their eyebrows, leans in closer, and flirtatiously explains that it means “with prosecco in it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooke responds with an enthralled “Ooh, stunning.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The interaction immediately went viral, especially among queer fans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://twitter.com/sckberry/status/1579469179534860294\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Bars are getting flooded with orders\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>More than 15,000 TikTok videos have been posted using the original sound from the D’Arcy and Cooke interview, racking up millions of views.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, social media is full of people promising to rush to their local bar to order a “Negroni sbagliato with prosecco in it.” Mixologists and lifestyle accounts are \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@join_jules/video/7152252066084228395?_r=1&_t=8WQA8P9FPFi&is_from_webapp=v1&item_id=7152252066084228395\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">sharing recipes.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And bartenders are joking about needing to stock up on ingredients before there’s a shortage (which has happened before when other TikTok recipes went viral, with ingredients such as \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/22832651/viral-tiktok-recipes-food-shortages\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Kewpie mayo and feta cheese\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"tiktok-embed\" style=\"max-width: 605px;min-width: 325px\" cite=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@raynemcgowan/video/7152957536277286190\" data-video-id=\"7152957536277286190\">\n\u003csection>\u003ca title=\"@raynemcgowan\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@raynemcgowan?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">@raynemcgowan\u003c/a> negroni 🔥 spagliato🔥🔥with prosecco in it 🥵 \u003ca title=\"wlwtiktok\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/tag/wlwtiktok?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">#wlwtiktok\u003c/a> \u003ca title=\"lesbiansoftiktok\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/tag/lesbiansoftiktok?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">#lesbiansoftiktok\u003c/a> \u003ca title=\"emmadarcy\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/tag/emmadarcy?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">#emmadarcy\u003c/a> \u003ca title=\"cubbyholenyc\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/tag/cubbyholenyc?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">#cubbyholenyc\u003c/a> \u003ca title=\"♬ original sound - Rayne McGowan\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/music/original-sound-7152957575422593834?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">♬ original sound – Rayne McGowan\u003c/a>\u003c/section>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>[tiktok]\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>But the meme is a bit of a misnomer\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>While fans will forever know the meme as “Negroni… \u003cem>sbagliato… \u003c/em>with prosecco in it,” that’s not how someone would usually order it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sbagliato means “mistaken” or “broken” in Italian — a reference to substituting the gin in a traditional Negroni for sparkling wine. So saying “with prosecco” is \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@leah.kilpatrick/video/7152343541237452078?_r=1&_t=8WQA4RFHcEg&is_from_webapp=v1&item_id=7152343541237452078\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">redundant\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can just order it as a sbagliato, experts say. Here’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_R5DKp2dwr0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">an example\u003c/a> of how to pronounce it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://twitter.com/jillboard/status/1579581191195619328\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>How to make your own mistake\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>If you want to give the sbagliato a whirl from the comfort of your own home — perhaps this Sunday while you’re watching \u003cem>House of the Dragon\u003c/em> — here’s what you’ll need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cocktail itself is simple. You’ll need three ingredients: Campari, sweet vermouth and prosecco. Some recipes suggest an equal 1:1:1 ratio, but you may want to adjust to your personal taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A quick recipe:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Add ice to your glass.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour in 1.5 oz of sweet vermouth.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add 1.5 oz of Campari and stir.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Top off your glass with prosecco.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add a slice of orange for garnish, if you’re so inclined.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Get in there and make Emma proud.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">\u003cem>Copyright 2022 NPR. To see more, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">visit NPR\u003c/a>.\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Why+everyone+is+talking+about+Negroni+sbagliato+%E2%80%94+and+how+to+make+your+own&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/em>\u003c/div>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Move over, Aperol spritz. The reign of Negroni sbagliato has just begun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cocktail — made with Campari, sweet vermouth, and sparkling wine instead of the traditional gin — has taken over social media, thanks to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@hbomax/video/7149523510589754670?_r=1&_t=8WQ7RsdTACM&is_from_webapp=v1&item_id=7149523510589754670\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">behind-the-scenes interview\u003c/a> promoting \u003cem>House of the Dragon\u003c/em> on HBO’s TikTok account.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"tiktok-embed\" style=\"max-width: 605px;min-width: 325px\" cite=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@hbomax/video/7149523510589754670\" data-video-id=\"7149523510589754670\">\n\u003csection>\u003ca title=\"@hbomax\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@hbomax?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">@hbomax\u003c/a> I’ll take one of each. \u003ca title=\"houseofthedragon\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/tag/houseofthedragon?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">#houseofthedragon\u003c/a> \u003ca title=\"♬ a negroni sbagliato w prosecco l hbo max - hbomax\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/music/a-negroni-sbagliato-w-prosecco-l-hbo-max-7149523537730997035?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">♬ a negroni sbagliato w prosecco l hbo max – hbomax\u003c/a>\u003c/section>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\n\u003ch3>Bars are getting flooded with orders\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>More than 15,000 TikTok videos have been posted using the original sound from the D’Arcy and Cooke interview, racking up millions of views.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, social media is full of people promising to rush to their local bar to order a “Negroni sbagliato with prosecco in it.” Mixologists and lifestyle accounts are \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@join_jules/video/7152252066084228395?_r=1&_t=8WQA8P9FPFi&is_from_webapp=v1&item_id=7152252066084228395\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">sharing recipes.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And bartenders are joking about needing to stock up on ingredients before there’s a shortage (which has happened before when other TikTok recipes went viral, with ingredients such as \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/22832651/viral-tiktok-recipes-food-shortages\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Kewpie mayo and feta cheese\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"tiktok-embed\" style=\"max-width: 605px;min-width: 325px\" cite=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@raynemcgowan/video/7152957536277286190\" data-video-id=\"7152957536277286190\">\n\u003csection>\u003ca title=\"@raynemcgowan\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@raynemcgowan?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">@raynemcgowan\u003c/a> negroni 🔥 spagliato🔥🔥with prosecco in it 🥵 \u003ca title=\"wlwtiktok\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/tag/wlwtiktok?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">#wlwtiktok\u003c/a> \u003ca title=\"lesbiansoftiktok\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/tag/lesbiansoftiktok?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">#lesbiansoftiktok\u003c/a> \u003ca title=\"emmadarcy\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/tag/emmadarcy?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">#emmadarcy\u003c/a> \u003ca title=\"cubbyholenyc\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/tag/cubbyholenyc?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">#cubbyholenyc\u003c/a> \u003ca title=\"♬ original sound - Rayne McGowan\" href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/music/original-sound-7152957575422593834?refer=embed\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">♬ original sound – Rayne McGowan\u003c/a>\u003c/section>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>But the meme is a bit of a misnomer\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>While fans will forever know the meme as “Negroni… \u003cem>sbagliato… \u003c/em>with prosecco in it,” that’s not how someone would usually order it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sbagliato means “mistaken” or “broken” in Italian — a reference to substituting the gin in a traditional Negroni for sparkling wine. So saying “with prosecco” is \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@leah.kilpatrick/video/7152343541237452078?_r=1&_t=8WQA4RFHcEg&is_from_webapp=v1&item_id=7152343541237452078\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">redundant\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can just order it as a sbagliato, experts say. Here’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_R5DKp2dwr0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">an example\u003c/a> of how to pronounce it.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\n\u003ch3>How to make your own mistake\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>If you want to give the sbagliato a whirl from the comfort of your own home — perhaps this Sunday while you’re watching \u003cem>House of the Dragon\u003c/em> — here’s what you’ll need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cocktail itself is simple. You’ll need three ingredients: Campari, sweet vermouth and prosecco. Some recipes suggest an equal 1:1:1 ratio, but you may want to adjust to your personal taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A quick recipe:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Add ice to your glass.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour in 1.5 oz of sweet vermouth.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add 1.5 oz of Campari and stir.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Top off your glass with prosecco.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add a slice of orange for garnish, if you’re so inclined.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Get in there and make Emma proud.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">\u003cem>Copyright 2022 NPR. To see more, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">visit NPR\u003c/a>.\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Why+everyone+is+talking+about+Negroni+sbagliato+%E2%80%94+and+how+to+make+your+own&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/em>\u003c/div>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Oaxacan Elegance Is the Highlight at This Mexican American Pop-Up",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mexican food in the United States often gets simplified into a handful of basic, delicious categories: tacos, burritos and maybe tamales or enchiladas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you peel away the regional layers of Mexican cuisine, you’ll begin to discover the limitless multiverses that exist. Corn or flour tortillas? Salsa-bathed burrito or grilled? Corn husk or banana leaf to wrap your tamales? Stewed or deep fried chicharron? And that doesn’t even begin to scratch the surface. In truth, Mexico is one of the most complex culinary regions of the world: Each pueblo or city has its own palate of flavors, techniques and local ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps more than any other region, Oaxaca is a delicious microcosm of this wildly vast kaleidoscope. From specialty sauces like Oaxacan black mole to pizza-like tlayudas, Oaxaca is viewed, within Mexico, as the country’s gem of culinary tradition, serving dishes that can only be found along the country’s southern coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the rich flavors of Oaxacan food have gained an international following, chefs like Ramirez who have familial ties to that region feel an even deeper connection to the cuisine — and a desire to maintain the area’s indigenous history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s about pride, hella pride,” says chef Eder Ramirez, who runs a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pro_ve_cho/\">Oaxacan-inspired food pop-up, Provecho\u003c/a>, around the Bay Area. “As soon as I think about what it means to be Oaxacan, culturally, it’s pride. Our food is a part of that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920078\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13920078\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_eder_ramirez_alanchazaro-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Eder Ramirez stands in the kitchen while giving a peace sign\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_eder_ramirez_alanchazaro-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_eder_ramirez_alanchazaro-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_eder_ramirez_alanchazaro-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_eder_ramirez_alanchazaro-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_eder_ramirez_alanchazaro-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_eder_ramirez_alanchazaro-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_eder_ramirez_alanchazaro-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Eder Ramirez showcases his pride inside Low Bar’s kitchen. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>His boldness and passion for Oaxacan traditions come across in the risks he takes in the kitchen. Known for experimentally-savvy dishes like confit leg of lamb with mint mole or pilte de pollo envuelto en yerba santa (chicken marinated in Mexican mother sauce, wrapped in yerba santa and encased in banana leaf), Ramirez is putting a multicultural, Northern Californian touch on family favorites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I linked up with the Bay Area-based Oaxaqueño to learn about his connection to his homeland and how he uses Oaxacan inspiration to feed his community. Like Mexicans always say before enjoying a delicious meal, “provecho.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: How would you explain Oaxacan food for those who are unfamiliar with that region of Southern Mexican cuisine? We’re not just talking about tacos and burritos here.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Southern Mexican food is personally my favorite. Oaxaca, but also the Yucatan. They have so many wild things that most people don’t know about — wild flavors. It’s special. They’re not heavily colonized so they’re not filled with bread and tons of fat. It relies more on herbs and freshness. It’s not as greasy. It’s floral. It’s hoja santa, hoja de agucate. It’s the difference of our pipian [a mole-like paste that uses pumpkin seeds and puréed greens] from others. Our pipian uses hoja santa. We also like to use guajes [river tamarind]; it’s a long pod, like a bean, but it’s a seed. These flavors are so unique. They almost seem foreign. That’s Oaxacan food for me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your connection to Oaxaca and how do you use that to inspire your work as a chef who serves a mix of clientele in the Bay Area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m from Madera in Central California — I was born here [in California] but got family over there [in Oaxaca]. I have immediate family there, in the Mixteca region. It’s funny, I have this one inspiration, Enrique Rivera, who was one of the first to put Mexican food on TV. He said, “I don’t need to make my grandmother’s dish.” I feel the same. He inspired me to think about Mexican food as something that can be elevated, not just tacos. At its core what I’m making is Oaxacan, but I’m also Californian. They are similar places in many ways. It’s about being resourceful with the bounty around you. Nowadays, everyone is getting their culinary game from Oaxaca. There’s a lot of hype for that region. But I didn’t know how special it all was until I left my home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920079\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13920079\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_ceviche_alanchazaro-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"a white plate of raw tuna fish with floral and fruit garnishes\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_ceviche_alanchazaro-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_ceviche_alanchazaro-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_ceviche_alanchazaro-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_ceviche_alanchazaro-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_ceviche_alanchazaro-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_ceviche_alanchazaro-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_ceviche_alanchazaro-1920x2880.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_ceviche_alanchazaro-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tuna, passion fruit leche de tigre, kumquat and gooseberries are an example of elevated Oaxacan inspiration. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>When did you fall in love with cooking? When did it become your profession?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up, I always helped my grandmother — most of my family grew up doing farm labor — but my grandma was in the kitchen, making masa. I saw it as a chore. Once I arrived in the Bay Area in 2007, when I was 21, I started cooking for myself. Simple things: Trader Joe’s groceries. I was fresh here in San Francisco, a typical 20 year old, eating out. Going to the Mission to eat Mexican food — Farolito, Guadalajara. It felt different to me. What hit is that the Mexican food here just wasn’t the same. I don’t want to talk shit, but in the Valley, it’s a straight influx of Mexicans. It tastes like home cooking. Here, it didn’t feel like that to me. So I called my mom and spoke with my grandma to ask how to make certain dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Around that time, I moved into a vegan household. I started trying more things, using meat substitutes. There weren’t too many vegan restaurants at the time back then. My journey started because I needed to cook for myself. How do I make a chile relleno but vegan? It pushed me to make food that is supposed to be super fatty but making it healthy. How do you do that? It was all home cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I came to the Bay to do art, and I consider myself to be an artist still. I bounced around until a chef friend of mine invited me to work with her in 2016 at B Restaurant and Bar. They were doing oyster events, and it was all Mexicans and Central Americans in the kitchen. They took me in and put me on. I was watching YouTube; I didn’t go to culinary school. I was very creative and I wanted to learn. I get nerdy and obsess over things I want to become good at. The chef there gave me a chance as a line cook. I learned each day by just jumping in headstrong, without any formal training in restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After that, it felt really cool. It took off and I blossomed from there. My friends who were doing art shows asked me to sell food at their events. You just gotta have that Bay Area grind mentality where you’re working but also doing side work. I came up with a quick name [at the time]: Cocina Maiz. After that it became something I really liked and I started popping up regularly at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/elismilehighclub/\">Eli’s Mile High Club\u003c/a>. If you want it, you can go get it. I just made it happen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You add dashes of fusion to your dishes. What are some examples of dishes you’ve made that explore these cultural remixes, and why is that important to you?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Technique is important. Watching my grandmother and remembering her cooking process — if you’ve been to a rancho, that is hard work. Making masa? That’s so much labor. And that’s just one aspect. You also have salsas and all that stuff. I gained all that growing up. Once I started working in other spaces, I began to learn other tools and techniques, like French fine dining or fast casual. That involved OG French brigade style. I learned about new things I was capable of making.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My oxtail dish, for example, that’s a very French thing to do. It’s braised with mezcal. I grew up eating caldo de res with bones in the soup. That’s Mexican. But the French thing to do is cutting it lengthwise and maybe add green sauce. I found that to be cool, but how would I do that with Mexican rice? So I made lamb chops with green mole — that felt European to me, lamb chops with mint sauce. Mexicans eat lamb, too — barbacoa, birria. But it’s prepared differently. We grew up eating borrego cooked in holes in the earth. But how can I do that in other contexts, Americanized? You’re constantly translating. You’re using other techniques for these things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I just also happen to love Japanese food, so I allow that to pop up as tempura Baja tacos. There’s a lot of intersection with other cultures, and I want that to hit on that. I’m always trying to figure out how to do shit I like and bring that over into Mexican food without making it look like a Chevy’s (laughs).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920080\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13920080\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_memela_alanchazaro-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"a blue plate displays a Oaxacan empanada, which resembles a Mexican quesadilla\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_memela_alanchazaro-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_memela_alanchazaro-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_memela_alanchazaro-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_memela_alanchazaro-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_memela_alanchazaro-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_memela_alanchazaro-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_memela_alanchazaro-1920x2880.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_memela_alanchazaro-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Provecho’s Oaxacan empanada is a quesadilla with quesillo and pistachio salsa macha. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You use the phrase “Native powered” on social media. I’m drawn to it. What does that concept mean for you?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s different areas in Oaxaca. There are about eight areas. The two biggest groups are Mixtec and Zapotec. You’ll see lots of villages speaking indigenous languages there. My parents weren’t taught Mixteco, but I had family members who spoke Mixteco and Trique, which is a dialect of Mixteco. So I grew up around that. But because of heavy racism in the States, I felt ashamed of these things. I wouldn’t even want to wear my huaraches. Unless you have a strong circle of elders to tell you it’s OK, most of us don’t feel connected to those traditions here in the U.S. We don’t have the time to articulate our feelings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Eder Ramirez, Provecho\"]“We are byproducts of our ancestors, and it’s ingrained in our DNA to know certain things. … My way of teaching or showing or offering to others is to preserve culture, and for me, it’s through food. It’s gonna be Mexican as fuck.”[/pullquote]\u003c/span>It wasn’t until I got older and started educating myself, reading and researching about people who resisted. That’s what native powered means to me. A resistance. In the U.S. and Mexico, we don’t always see ourselves as indigenous. Some “Whitexicans” might want to claim their Spanish side more. But for me, Mexico is the world’s biggest reservation. Once you delve past the ritzy hotel towns, you see what it is. Once you get to these areas, you get to your ancestors. Milpas are where you grow corn, beans, squash — replenishing the Earth without destroying the soil. It’s the way to grow symbiotically. It’s everywhere in Mexico, and it looks like a mess, but it’s synergy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s all about education, sharing, representation, connecting with the youth. Everyone has their gifts. We are byproducts of our ancestors, and it’s ingrained in our DNA to know certain things. They’re memories passed on. My way of teaching or showing or offering to others is to preserve culture, and for me, it’s through food. It’s gonna be Mexican as fuck.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Memelas are a common Oaxacan dish you make. What are they?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13919032,arts_13896221,arts_13913592']\u003c/span>I didn’t eat memelas growing up. I serve them, but because, since when you talk about Mexican food there’s so many regions, this is Oaxacan. When you get to Oaxaca, it goes even further into more regions. You have your moles, tlayudas, memelas, mezcal. That’s Oaxaca to most people. But every region in Oaxaca has their own ways of doing all of this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Memelas are like picadas, or picadas Veracruzanas. It’s a thick tortilla with pinched sides, almost like a sope [a Mexican dish of a fried masa with mixed toppings; imagine an open-faced pupusa]. [Memelas are] even thinner, with pinched sides and a canal in the middle. You can eat them for breakfast or lunch. You add a little bit of oil and a Oaxacan lard mixed with pieces of chicharon, called asiento.Then some salsa y queso. I wanted to bring that, I wanted that to be my shit. My menu rotates, but I was told I should keep an item or two for consistency. Memelas are here to stay, and they’re Oaxacan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How has the Bay Area influenced your cooking as a Mexican American?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s not something I overtly think about, but it’s inherent in where I am. I’m using ingredients that are grown an hour north of me, in the North Bay. I get my fish from this region, too. And these things I make? They are sometimes a little extra. I’m doing a smoked pork belly taco… c’mon that’s extra as fuck. And what’s more extra than Bay Area culture? Bay Area culture is the most. You gotta have attitude; it’s not for the meek. You gotta have sazon in your energy. I can be calm and super chill, but when I do food, I am the most. I eat food like a motherfucker. Eating in East Oakland, everywhere.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You just get influenced by friends, by love, by your surroundings, and that’s all the Bay: this beautiful landscape. You drive past that gnarly part of the [Highway] 80 near Emeryville, then there’s this fuckin’ beautiful water right next to you. I pay a tax to be somewhere dope, and this place provides that. It shows up in what I cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pro_ve_cho/\">\u003ci>Provecho\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> rotates locations weekly. Tuesdays at \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lowbaroakland/\">\u003ci>Low Bar\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (2300 Webster St., Oakland) from 5 p.m. until sell out. One Friday every month at \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/crybabyoakland/\">\u003ci>Cry Baby\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (1928 Telegraph Ave., Oakland) from 5 p.m. until sell out. Supper Club, in Rockridge, is Ramirez’s monthly underground food event; \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CinqZmZP4h9/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link\">\u003ci>limited tickets\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> must be purchased in advance. He also serves private meal orders.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mexican food in the United States often gets simplified into a handful of basic, delicious categories: tacos, burritos and maybe tamales or enchiladas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you peel away the regional layers of Mexican cuisine, you’ll begin to discover the limitless multiverses that exist. Corn or flour tortillas? Salsa-bathed burrito or grilled? Corn husk or banana leaf to wrap your tamales? Stewed or deep fried chicharron? And that doesn’t even begin to scratch the surface. In truth, Mexico is one of the most complex culinary regions of the world: Each pueblo or city has its own palate of flavors, techniques and local ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps more than any other region, Oaxaca is a delicious microcosm of this wildly vast kaleidoscope. From specialty sauces like Oaxacan black mole to pizza-like tlayudas, Oaxaca is viewed, within Mexico, as the country’s gem of culinary tradition, serving dishes that can only be found along the country’s southern coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the rich flavors of Oaxacan food have gained an international following, chefs like Ramirez who have familial ties to that region feel an even deeper connection to the cuisine — and a desire to maintain the area’s indigenous history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s about pride, hella pride,” says chef Eder Ramirez, who runs a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pro_ve_cho/\">Oaxacan-inspired food pop-up, Provecho\u003c/a>, around the Bay Area. “As soon as I think about what it means to be Oaxacan, culturally, it’s pride. Our food is a part of that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920078\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13920078\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_eder_ramirez_alanchazaro-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Eder Ramirez stands in the kitchen while giving a peace sign\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_eder_ramirez_alanchazaro-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_eder_ramirez_alanchazaro-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_eder_ramirez_alanchazaro-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_eder_ramirez_alanchazaro-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_eder_ramirez_alanchazaro-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_eder_ramirez_alanchazaro-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_eder_ramirez_alanchazaro-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Eder Ramirez showcases his pride inside Low Bar’s kitchen. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>His boldness and passion for Oaxacan traditions come across in the risks he takes in the kitchen. Known for experimentally-savvy dishes like confit leg of lamb with mint mole or pilte de pollo envuelto en yerba santa (chicken marinated in Mexican mother sauce, wrapped in yerba santa and encased in banana leaf), Ramirez is putting a multicultural, Northern Californian touch on family favorites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I linked up with the Bay Area-based Oaxaqueño to learn about his connection to his homeland and how he uses Oaxacan inspiration to feed his community. Like Mexicans always say before enjoying a delicious meal, “provecho.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: How would you explain Oaxacan food for those who are unfamiliar with that region of Southern Mexican cuisine? We’re not just talking about tacos and burritos here.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Southern Mexican food is personally my favorite. Oaxaca, but also the Yucatan. They have so many wild things that most people don’t know about — wild flavors. It’s special. They’re not heavily colonized so they’re not filled with bread and tons of fat. It relies more on herbs and freshness. It’s not as greasy. It’s floral. It’s hoja santa, hoja de agucate. It’s the difference of our pipian [a mole-like paste that uses pumpkin seeds and puréed greens] from others. Our pipian uses hoja santa. We also like to use guajes [river tamarind]; it’s a long pod, like a bean, but it’s a seed. These flavors are so unique. They almost seem foreign. That’s Oaxacan food for me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your connection to Oaxaca and how do you use that to inspire your work as a chef who serves a mix of clientele in the Bay Area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m from Madera in Central California — I was born here [in California] but got family over there [in Oaxaca]. I have immediate family there, in the Mixteca region. It’s funny, I have this one inspiration, Enrique Rivera, who was one of the first to put Mexican food on TV. He said, “I don’t need to make my grandmother’s dish.” I feel the same. He inspired me to think about Mexican food as something that can be elevated, not just tacos. At its core what I’m making is Oaxacan, but I’m also Californian. They are similar places in many ways. It’s about being resourceful with the bounty around you. Nowadays, everyone is getting their culinary game from Oaxaca. There’s a lot of hype for that region. But I didn’t know how special it all was until I left my home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920079\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13920079\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_ceviche_alanchazaro-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"a white plate of raw tuna fish with floral and fruit garnishes\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_ceviche_alanchazaro-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_ceviche_alanchazaro-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_ceviche_alanchazaro-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_ceviche_alanchazaro-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_ceviche_alanchazaro-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_ceviche_alanchazaro-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_ceviche_alanchazaro-1920x2880.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_ceviche_alanchazaro-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tuna, passion fruit leche de tigre, kumquat and gooseberries are an example of elevated Oaxacan inspiration. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>When did you fall in love with cooking? When did it become your profession?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up, I always helped my grandmother — most of my family grew up doing farm labor — but my grandma was in the kitchen, making masa. I saw it as a chore. Once I arrived in the Bay Area in 2007, when I was 21, I started cooking for myself. Simple things: Trader Joe’s groceries. I was fresh here in San Francisco, a typical 20 year old, eating out. Going to the Mission to eat Mexican food — Farolito, Guadalajara. It felt different to me. What hit is that the Mexican food here just wasn’t the same. I don’t want to talk shit, but in the Valley, it’s a straight influx of Mexicans. It tastes like home cooking. Here, it didn’t feel like that to me. So I called my mom and spoke with my grandma to ask how to make certain dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Around that time, I moved into a vegan household. I started trying more things, using meat substitutes. There weren’t too many vegan restaurants at the time back then. My journey started because I needed to cook for myself. How do I make a chile relleno but vegan? It pushed me to make food that is supposed to be super fatty but making it healthy. How do you do that? It was all home cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I came to the Bay to do art, and I consider myself to be an artist still. I bounced around until a chef friend of mine invited me to work with her in 2016 at B Restaurant and Bar. They were doing oyster events, and it was all Mexicans and Central Americans in the kitchen. They took me in and put me on. I was watching YouTube; I didn’t go to culinary school. I was very creative and I wanted to learn. I get nerdy and obsess over things I want to become good at. The chef there gave me a chance as a line cook. I learned each day by just jumping in headstrong, without any formal training in restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After that, it felt really cool. It took off and I blossomed from there. My friends who were doing art shows asked me to sell food at their events. You just gotta have that Bay Area grind mentality where you’re working but also doing side work. I came up with a quick name [at the time]: Cocina Maiz. After that it became something I really liked and I started popping up regularly at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/elismilehighclub/\">Eli’s Mile High Club\u003c/a>. If you want it, you can go get it. I just made it happen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You add dashes of fusion to your dishes. What are some examples of dishes you’ve made that explore these cultural remixes, and why is that important to you?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Technique is important. Watching my grandmother and remembering her cooking process — if you’ve been to a rancho, that is hard work. Making masa? That’s so much labor. And that’s just one aspect. You also have salsas and all that stuff. I gained all that growing up. Once I started working in other spaces, I began to learn other tools and techniques, like French fine dining or fast casual. That involved OG French brigade style. I learned about new things I was capable of making.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My oxtail dish, for example, that’s a very French thing to do. It’s braised with mezcal. I grew up eating caldo de res with bones in the soup. That’s Mexican. But the French thing to do is cutting it lengthwise and maybe add green sauce. I found that to be cool, but how would I do that with Mexican rice? So I made lamb chops with green mole — that felt European to me, lamb chops with mint sauce. Mexicans eat lamb, too — barbacoa, birria. But it’s prepared differently. We grew up eating borrego cooked in holes in the earth. But how can I do that in other contexts, Americanized? You’re constantly translating. You’re using other techniques for these things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I just also happen to love Japanese food, so I allow that to pop up as tempura Baja tacos. There’s a lot of intersection with other cultures, and I want that to hit on that. I’m always trying to figure out how to do shit I like and bring that over into Mexican food without making it look like a Chevy’s (laughs).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920080\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13920080\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_memela_alanchazaro-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"a blue plate displays a Oaxacan empanada, which resembles a Mexican quesadilla\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_memela_alanchazaro-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_memela_alanchazaro-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_memela_alanchazaro-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_memela_alanchazaro-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_memela_alanchazaro-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_memela_alanchazaro-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_memela_alanchazaro-1920x2880.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/provecho_memela_alanchazaro-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Provecho’s Oaxacan empanada is a quesadilla with quesillo and pistachio salsa macha. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You use the phrase “Native powered” on social media. I’m drawn to it. What does that concept mean for you?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s different areas in Oaxaca. There are about eight areas. The two biggest groups are Mixtec and Zapotec. You’ll see lots of villages speaking indigenous languages there. My parents weren’t taught Mixteco, but I had family members who spoke Mixteco and Trique, which is a dialect of Mixteco. So I grew up around that. But because of heavy racism in the States, I felt ashamed of these things. I wouldn’t even want to wear my huaraches. Unless you have a strong circle of elders to tell you it’s OK, most of us don’t feel connected to those traditions here in the U.S. We don’t have the time to articulate our feelings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "“We are byproducts of our ancestors, and it’s ingrained in our DNA to know certain things. … My way of teaching or showing or offering to others is to preserve culture, and for me, it’s through food. It’s gonna be Mexican as fuck.”",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>It wasn’t until I got older and started educating myself, reading and researching about people who resisted. That’s what native powered means to me. A resistance. In the U.S. and Mexico, we don’t always see ourselves as indigenous. Some “Whitexicans” might want to claim their Spanish side more. But for me, Mexico is the world’s biggest reservation. Once you delve past the ritzy hotel towns, you see what it is. Once you get to these areas, you get to your ancestors. Milpas are where you grow corn, beans, squash — replenishing the Earth without destroying the soil. It’s the way to grow symbiotically. It’s everywhere in Mexico, and it looks like a mess, but it’s synergy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s all about education, sharing, representation, connecting with the youth. Everyone has their gifts. We are byproducts of our ancestors, and it’s ingrained in our DNA to know certain things. They’re memories passed on. My way of teaching or showing or offering to others is to preserve culture, and for me, it’s through food. It’s gonna be Mexican as fuck.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Memelas are a common Oaxacan dish you make. What are they?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>I didn’t eat memelas growing up. I serve them, but because, since when you talk about Mexican food there’s so many regions, this is Oaxacan. When you get to Oaxaca, it goes even further into more regions. You have your moles, tlayudas, memelas, mezcal. That’s Oaxaca to most people. But every region in Oaxaca has their own ways of doing all of this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Memelas are like picadas, or picadas Veracruzanas. It’s a thick tortilla with pinched sides, almost like a sope [a Mexican dish of a fried masa with mixed toppings; imagine an open-faced pupusa]. [Memelas are] even thinner, with pinched sides and a canal in the middle. You can eat them for breakfast or lunch. You add a little bit of oil and a Oaxacan lard mixed with pieces of chicharon, called asiento.Then some salsa y queso. I wanted to bring that, I wanted that to be my shit. My menu rotates, but I was told I should keep an item or two for consistency. Memelas are here to stay, and they’re Oaxacan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How has the Bay Area influenced your cooking as a Mexican American?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s not something I overtly think about, but it’s inherent in where I am. I’m using ingredients that are grown an hour north of me, in the North Bay. I get my fish from this region, too. And these things I make? They are sometimes a little extra. I’m doing a smoked pork belly taco… c’mon that’s extra as fuck. And what’s more extra than Bay Area culture? Bay Area culture is the most. You gotta have attitude; it’s not for the meek. You gotta have sazon in your energy. I can be calm and super chill, but when I do food, I am the most. I eat food like a motherfucker. Eating in East Oakland, everywhere.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You just get influenced by friends, by love, by your surroundings, and that’s all the Bay: this beautiful landscape. You drive past that gnarly part of the [Highway] 80 near Emeryville, then there’s this fuckin’ beautiful water right next to you. I pay a tax to be somewhere dope, and this place provides that. It shows up in what I cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pro_ve_cho/\">\u003ci>Provecho\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> rotates locations weekly. Tuesdays at \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lowbaroakland/\">\u003ci>Low Bar\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (2300 Webster St., Oakland) from 5 p.m. until sell out. One Friday every month at \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/crybabyoakland/\">\u003ci>Cry Baby\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (1928 Telegraph Ave., Oakland) from 5 p.m. until sell out. Supper Club, in Rockridge, is Ramirez’s monthly underground food event; \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CinqZmZP4h9/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link\">\u003ci>limited tickets\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> must be purchased in advance. He also serves private meal orders.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Oakland’s Diaspora Co. Thinks You Should Put Jaggery in Everything",
"headTitle": "Oakland’s Diaspora Co. Thinks You Should Put Jaggery in Everything | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]E[/dropcap]very time Sana Javeri Kadri flies back to California from a visit to her hometown of Mumbai, India, she stuffs her suitcase full of treasure: hefty, golden-brown bricks of the South Asian sweetener known as jaggery. It’s been 10 years since Javeri Kadri, founder of Oakland-based spice company \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diaspora Co.\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, first immigrated to the United States. And for 10 years now, she’s been lugging back this precious cargo. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">What Javeri Kadri hadn’t thought to do until very recently, however, is to \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">sell\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> jaggery. This, despite the fact that her entire business is built around \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/pages/about\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">sourcing single-origin spices from small farms in India\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. It was just too troublesome, Javeri Kadri explains — there were too many regulations designed to protect the domestic sugar industry. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But a recent test batch that Diaspora Co. sold as part of its \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/products/chai-kit?variant=41596798271659\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">chai kit\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> was so wildly popular that Javeri Kadri decided to give it a go. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CjTG_VzrwoM/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In an announcement\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that thrilled Indian home cooks, Michelin-pedigreed chefs and hardcore chai enthusiasts alike, Diaspora Co. is now selling jaggery online to customers anywhere in the U.S. (and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/pages/faq\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">beyond\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">).\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jaggery, at its core, is sugarcane juice that’s boiled down and caramelized until it’s one step away from becoming sugar, Javeri Kadri explains. “It’s like sugar’s unrefined, much more nutritionally dense cousin,” she says. “I’ve been referring to it jokingly as the ‘OG, pre-colonial sweetener.’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920067\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1365px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920067\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks.jpg\" alt=\"Blocks of jaggery stacked on the ground, draped with colorful cloth.\" width=\"1365\" height=\"2048\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1365px) 100vw, 1365px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Blocks of jaggery in its finished form at the Randive family’s facility in the Daund region of India. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Diaspora Co.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Up until this point, jaggery has received little mainstream attention in the U.S. But on the Indian subcontinent (and throughout much of Southeast Asia), many people use jaggery as their default sweetener, shaving chunks of it into a coarse powder. And in recent years, Javeri Kadri explains, the product has enjoyed a resurgence in India as health-conscious middle- and upperclass elites have started to use it more frequently as an “old-school ingredient” in place of refined white sugar. (Many Latin American food cultures use a similar unrefined sweetener known as panela.)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The important thing, Javeri Kadri notes, is that jaggery also tastes better than white sugar — or, perhaps more to the point, it actually \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">has \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a taste beyond just sweetness. As Javeri Kadri puts it, “Jaggery is not just lending sweetness, but it’s also lending a depth of flavor.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“You can pick up hints of saltiness and earthiness,” says Nik Sharma, a Los Angeles-based cookbook author and former \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Francisco Chronicle \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">food columnist. “It also has a unique, molasses-like caramel aroma to it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sharma doesn’t limit his use of jaggery to its traditional Indian applications as the sweetener for masala chai and any number of curry recipes. His cookbook, \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Season, \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">includes a recipe for jaggery ice cream spiced with saffron and cardamom. And jaggery’s earthy, caramelly qualities also make it perfect for Western-style fall baking. Sharma uses it in place of brown sugar when baking chocolate chip cookies, snickerdoodles and ginger snaps. Javeri Kadri, for her part, uses it to sweeten her morning coffee.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Here in the U.S., however, jaggery is mostly only available in communities that have access to a South Asian grocery store, which likely gets the sweetener from a distributor “who bought it from a trader who bought it from another trader who bought it from another trader,” Javeri Kadri says. “It’s just as convoluted a supply chain as other spices.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For that reason, she says, much of the jaggery she has purchased from Indian markets in the Bay Area hasn’t been very good, often tending toward dry and somewhat stale — hence the trips to bring it back from the source in India.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920068\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920068\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri.jpg\" alt=\"A smiling woman in a checkered pink and yellow apron shows off a box of jarred spices in a matching pink and yellow box. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"2410\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-800x1004.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-1020x1280.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-160x201.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-768x964.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-1224x1536.jpg 1224w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-1632x2048.jpg 1632w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Diaspora Co founder Sana Javeri Kadri shows off a box of her company’s spices, including its new “Madhur Jaggery.” \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Diaspora Co.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When Diaspora Co. launched five years ago, the company’s explicit mission was to “decolonize” turmeric and the broader spice trade. You may recall 2016 as the year of the turmeric latte — or at least the year that Goop, Gwyneth Paltrow and the broader wellness industry \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/01/19/magazine/a-grandmothers-secret-turmeric-prescription.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">turned the centuries-old Indian home remedy known as haldi doodh\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> into a hip menu addition at American coffee shops. The wellness crowd’s subsequent obsession with turmeric itself usually \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://food52.com/blog/19083-how-indian-is-your-turmeric-latte\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">stripped the spice from its specific Indian context\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At the time, Javeri Kadri told \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Francisco Magaz\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">ine that if turmeric was going to become this buzzy ingredient in the West, she at least wanted “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://digital.modernluxury.com/publication/?m=3609&i=469140&view=articleBrowser&article_id=2985421&ver=html5\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">brown farmers to make as much money off of it as possible\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">” — especially in light of the many centuries of history in which the space trade itself was a prominent driver of colonialism. So Javeri Kadri launched Diaspora Co. in 2017 as a direct-trade spice company that started out selling just one spice — pragati turmeric, a very potent, marigold-orange varietal that she sourced from a single farmer in India, paying roughly \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://digital.modernluxury.com/publication/?m=3609&i=469140&view=articleBrowser&article_id=2985421&ver=html5\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">four times the commodity rate\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\"]“One difficult thing about trying to change the spice industry is that the food media tends to be more interested in identity politics than in the ethics of sourcing within a colonized industry such as the spice trade.”[/pullquote]Today, Diaspora Co. sells a full roster of 30 single-origin spices that it sources from 150 different farms spread across India and Sri Lanka. Its new “Madhur Jaggery” (“madhur,” a common Hindi name for a woman, means “sweet” or “gentle”) follows the same basic model. After tasting 12 jaggeries sourced from different farms in India, the company decided to buy jaggery from the Randive family, whose product was notable both for its depth of flavor and its \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126036/what-does-the-new-regenerative-organic-certification-mean-for-the-future-of-good-food\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">regenerative farming methods\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The family farm in India’s Daund region has been growing sugarcane organically for the past 14 years, processing it into jaggery mostly by hand. The Randives pulp the sugarcane down together with wild okra — to remove impurities, Javeri Kadri explains — and then boil down the juices and pulp in giant 12-foot vats.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920071\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2048px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920071\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive.jpg\" alt=\"A man stands in a field of sugarcane, the stalks of sugarcane behind him rising above his head.\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1365\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Farmer Kantilal Randive stands in a field of sugarcane at his organic farm in the Daund region of India. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Diaspora Co.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For convenience, Diaspora Co. is selling the finished product in powder form rather than the traditional blocks — $8 for a 2.47-ounce jar or $25 for a 500-gram bag.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the years since Diaspora Co.’s debut, the idea of “decolonizing” all kinds of different industries and products has gone mainstream. Folks have, variously, made it their mission to decolonize \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/21499205/black-indigenous-craft-chocolate-makers-history-industry\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">chocolate\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://oaklandside.org/2022/05/18/oakland-rooftop-medicine-farm-whole-foods/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">farmland\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2022/07/28/arts/design/raphael-montanez-ortiz-el-museuo-del-barrio.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">museums\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, to name just a few recent examples. The term has also become a sort of shorthand to indicate that the people behind a particular business venture are non-white — and in that way, Javeri Kadri says, it’s largely lost its meaning.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13912706,arts_13912976,arts_13919177']These days, Javeri Kadri says Diaspora Co. no longer uses the language of decolonization, instead preferring to reserve the term for indigenous activists who are pushing for \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11848769/the-east-bay-land-tax-that-supports-an-indigenous-women-led-trust\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">land rematriation\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “We can use ‘building a better spice trade’ or ‘giving power back to farmers,’” she says. “We don’t need that word.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">One difficult thing about trying to change the spice industry is that the food media tends to be more interested in identity politics than in the ethics of sourcing within a colonized industry such as the spice trade. And there’s no question: The rise of a company like Diaspora Co., with a queer immigrant woman like Javeri Kadri as its CEO, does represent an \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/21324312/diaspora-co-sana-javeri-kadri-sqirl-jam-collaboration\">important shift in power\u003c/a>. But what’s even \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">more\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> important, Javeri Kadri says, is for Diaspora Co. to make the best choices that it can make within the framework of capitalism—choices that benefit, rather than exploit, the farmers that they work with in India.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Representation matters,” Javeri Kadri says. “But in order to change a system, you have to go deeper than that.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diaspora Co.’s jaggery is available for purchase \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/products/madhur-jaggery?variant=42010287210667\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">online\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. It ships throughout the U.S., as well as \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/pages/faq\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Canada, Singapore, Indonesia, Japan, South Korea, Hong Kong, the EU and the UK\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">E\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>very time Sana Javeri Kadri flies back to California from a visit to her hometown of Mumbai, India, she stuffs her suitcase full of treasure: hefty, golden-brown bricks of the South Asian sweetener known as jaggery. It’s been 10 years since Javeri Kadri, founder of Oakland-based spice company \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diaspora Co.\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, first immigrated to the United States. And for 10 years now, she’s been lugging back this precious cargo. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">What Javeri Kadri hadn’t thought to do until very recently, however, is to \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">sell\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> jaggery. This, despite the fact that her entire business is built around \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/pages/about\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">sourcing single-origin spices from small farms in India\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. It was just too troublesome, Javeri Kadri explains — there were too many regulations designed to protect the domestic sugar industry. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But a recent test batch that Diaspora Co. sold as part of its \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/products/chai-kit?variant=41596798271659\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">chai kit\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> was so wildly popular that Javeri Kadri decided to give it a go. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CjTG_VzrwoM/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In an announcement\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that thrilled Indian home cooks, Michelin-pedigreed chefs and hardcore chai enthusiasts alike, Diaspora Co. is now selling jaggery online to customers anywhere in the U.S. (and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/pages/faq\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">beyond\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">).\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jaggery, at its core, is sugarcane juice that’s boiled down and caramelized until it’s one step away from becoming sugar, Javeri Kadri explains. “It’s like sugar’s unrefined, much more nutritionally dense cousin,” she says. “I’ve been referring to it jokingly as the ‘OG, pre-colonial sweetener.’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920067\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1365px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920067\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks.jpg\" alt=\"Blocks of jaggery stacked on the ground, draped with colorful cloth.\" width=\"1365\" height=\"2048\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_Jaggery-blocks-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1365px) 100vw, 1365px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Blocks of jaggery in its finished form at the Randive family’s facility in the Daund region of India. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Diaspora Co.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Up until this point, jaggery has received little mainstream attention in the U.S. But on the Indian subcontinent (and throughout much of Southeast Asia), many people use jaggery as their default sweetener, shaving chunks of it into a coarse powder. And in recent years, Javeri Kadri explains, the product has enjoyed a resurgence in India as health-conscious middle- and upperclass elites have started to use it more frequently as an “old-school ingredient” in place of refined white sugar. (Many Latin American food cultures use a similar unrefined sweetener known as panela.)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The important thing, Javeri Kadri notes, is that jaggery also tastes better than white sugar — or, perhaps more to the point, it actually \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">has \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a taste beyond just sweetness. As Javeri Kadri puts it, “Jaggery is not just lending sweetness, but it’s also lending a depth of flavor.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“You can pick up hints of saltiness and earthiness,” says Nik Sharma, a Los Angeles-based cookbook author and former \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Francisco Chronicle \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">food columnist. “It also has a unique, molasses-like caramel aroma to it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sharma doesn’t limit his use of jaggery to its traditional Indian applications as the sweetener for masala chai and any number of curry recipes. His cookbook, \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Season, \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">includes a recipe for jaggery ice cream spiced with saffron and cardamom. And jaggery’s earthy, caramelly qualities also make it perfect for Western-style fall baking. Sharma uses it in place of brown sugar when baking chocolate chip cookies, snickerdoodles and ginger snaps. Javeri Kadri, for her part, uses it to sweeten her morning coffee.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Here in the U.S., however, jaggery is mostly only available in communities that have access to a South Asian grocery store, which likely gets the sweetener from a distributor “who bought it from a trader who bought it from another trader who bought it from another trader,” Javeri Kadri says. “It’s just as convoluted a supply chain as other spices.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For that reason, she says, much of the jaggery she has purchased from Indian markets in the Bay Area hasn’t been very good, often tending toward dry and somewhat stale — hence the trips to bring it back from the source in India.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920068\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920068\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri.jpg\" alt=\"A smiling woman in a checkered pink and yellow apron shows off a box of jarred spices in a matching pink and yellow box. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"2410\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-800x1004.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-1020x1280.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-160x201.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-768x964.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-1224x1536.jpg 1224w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_SanaJaveriKadri-1632x2048.jpg 1632w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Diaspora Co founder Sana Javeri Kadri shows off a box of her company’s spices, including its new “Madhur Jaggery.” \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Diaspora Co.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When Diaspora Co. launched five years ago, the company’s explicit mission was to “decolonize” turmeric and the broader spice trade. You may recall 2016 as the year of the turmeric latte — or at least the year that Goop, Gwyneth Paltrow and the broader wellness industry \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/01/19/magazine/a-grandmothers-secret-turmeric-prescription.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">turned the centuries-old Indian home remedy known as haldi doodh\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> into a hip menu addition at American coffee shops. The wellness crowd’s subsequent obsession with turmeric itself usually \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://food52.com/blog/19083-how-indian-is-your-turmeric-latte\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">stripped the spice from its specific Indian context\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At the time, Javeri Kadri told \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Francisco Magaz\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">ine that if turmeric was going to become this buzzy ingredient in the West, she at least wanted “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://digital.modernluxury.com/publication/?m=3609&i=469140&view=articleBrowser&article_id=2985421&ver=html5\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">brown farmers to make as much money off of it as possible\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">” — especially in light of the many centuries of history in which the space trade itself was a prominent driver of colonialism. So Javeri Kadri launched Diaspora Co. in 2017 as a direct-trade spice company that started out selling just one spice — pragati turmeric, a very potent, marigold-orange varietal that she sourced from a single farmer in India, paying roughly \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://digital.modernluxury.com/publication/?m=3609&i=469140&view=articleBrowser&article_id=2985421&ver=html5\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">four times the commodity rate\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "“One difficult thing about trying to change the spice industry is that the food media tends to be more interested in identity politics than in the ethics of sourcing within a colonized industry such as the spice trade.”",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Today, Diaspora Co. sells a full roster of 30 single-origin spices that it sources from 150 different farms spread across India and Sri Lanka. Its new “Madhur Jaggery” (“madhur,” a common Hindi name for a woman, means “sweet” or “gentle”) follows the same basic model. After tasting 12 jaggeries sourced from different farms in India, the company decided to buy jaggery from the Randive family, whose product was notable both for its depth of flavor and its \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126036/what-does-the-new-regenerative-organic-certification-mean-for-the-future-of-good-food\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">regenerative farming methods\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The family farm in India’s Daund region has been growing sugarcane organically for the past 14 years, processing it into jaggery mostly by hand. The Randives pulp the sugarcane down together with wild okra — to remove impurities, Javeri Kadri explains — and then boil down the juices and pulp in giant 12-foot vats.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13920071\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2048px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13920071\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive.jpg\" alt=\"A man stands in a field of sugarcane, the stalks of sugarcane behind him rising above his head.\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1365\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/10/diasporaco_jaggery_KantilalRandive-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Farmer Kantilal Randive stands in a field of sugarcane at his organic farm in the Daund region of India. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Diaspora Co.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For convenience, Diaspora Co. is selling the finished product in powder form rather than the traditional blocks — $8 for a 2.47-ounce jar or $25 for a 500-gram bag.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the years since Diaspora Co.’s debut, the idea of “decolonizing” all kinds of different industries and products has gone mainstream. Folks have, variously, made it their mission to decolonize \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/21499205/black-indigenous-craft-chocolate-makers-history-industry\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">chocolate\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://oaklandside.org/2022/05/18/oakland-rooftop-medicine-farm-whole-foods/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">farmland\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2022/07/28/arts/design/raphael-montanez-ortiz-el-museuo-del-barrio.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">museums\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, to name just a few recent examples. The term has also become a sort of shorthand to indicate that the people behind a particular business venture are non-white — and in that way, Javeri Kadri says, it’s largely lost its meaning.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>These days, Javeri Kadri says Diaspora Co. no longer uses the language of decolonization, instead preferring to reserve the term for indigenous activists who are pushing for \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11848769/the-east-bay-land-tax-that-supports-an-indigenous-women-led-trust\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">land rematriation\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “We can use ‘building a better spice trade’ or ‘giving power back to farmers,’” she says. “We don’t need that word.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">One difficult thing about trying to change the spice industry is that the food media tends to be more interested in identity politics than in the ethics of sourcing within a colonized industry such as the spice trade. And there’s no question: The rise of a company like Diaspora Co., with a queer immigrant woman like Javeri Kadri as its CEO, does represent an \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/21324312/diaspora-co-sana-javeri-kadri-sqirl-jam-collaboration\">important shift in power\u003c/a>. But what’s even \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">more\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> important, Javeri Kadri says, is for Diaspora Co. to make the best choices that it can make within the framework of capitalism—choices that benefit, rather than exploit, the farmers that they work with in India.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Representation matters,” Javeri Kadri says. “But in order to change a system, you have to go deeper than that.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diaspora Co.’s jaggery is available for purchase \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/products/madhur-jaggery?variant=42010287210667\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">online\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. It ships throughout the U.S., as well as \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.diasporaco.com/pages/faq\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Canada, Singapore, Indonesia, Japan, South Korea, Hong Kong, the EU and the UK\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "ellis-creamery-filipino-ice-cream-bakery-halo-halo-gas-station-tracy",
"title": "This Filipino Gas Station Dessert Shop Is Among NorCal’s Most Delicious Secrets",
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"headTitle": "This Filipino Gas Station Dessert Shop Is Among NorCal’s Most Delicious Secrets | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>[dropcap]Y[/dropcap]ou would never guess it, but there’s something transcendent about an otherwise bland National gas station on W. Grant Line Rd. in Tracy. On first appearance, it seems like any ordinary stop point in U.S. suburbia: People pull up in a hurry, fill up on petro, then hop back into their whips and speed off onto a multi-lane road on their way to whatever American Dream they are chasing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But between a Black Bear Diner and RV Center, right along Interstate 205, hides a clandestine gem exploding with Pinoy favorites. Here, at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ellis.creamery/\">Ellis Creamery\u003c/a>, Khristian Rabut experiments with distinctly Filipino ingredients to perfect his ice cream recipes while his wife Marie provides a full lineup of Filipino baked goods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The concept originally began in 2020, when Marie—who works full-time in healthcare—started a home-based business called Marie’s Kitchen as a way to explore her passion for baking. At the time, she wanted to supplement her income and provide a creative outlet. After gaining local recognition, she expanded her business and brought in her husband, Khristian, who purchased their brick-and-mortar gas station location in 2021, taking over the already existing Ellis Creamery. They also hired Khristian’s cousin, Carl Ongwico, to serve as the business’s in-house “ice cream expert.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Together, the family is bringing some of the hottest (and coldest) treats from the Philippine islands to Northern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We went back to food we knew in the Philippines,” Khristian says. “We tried to copy the way we remember eating in the Philippines. It gave us something to focus on during the pandemic, besides our day jobs.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919720\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13919720\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a Filipino cookie, known as a silvana, is sliced open to reveal layers of meringue and butter cream\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Filipino silvana is sliced open to reveal layers of meringue and butter cream. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Khristian first immigrated to San Jose from Lucena, a territory in the Quezon province located south of Manila. He arrived in Silicon Valley in 2007 with a work visa as part of the tech industry’s massive influx of talent from around the globe. Initially, he worked as a consultant trainer with companies like PG&E, Cypress and Infineon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In California, he met Marie—also from Lucena—and the couple returned to their hometown to marry in 2009. When they moved back to San Jose, they realized the cost of living was steeper than they could afford, and with their first child on the way, they made the decision to move an hour east to the commuter city of Tracy in 2014. It’s a migratory trend that still continues today, nearly a decade later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“[Tracy] is diverse. I’d guess there’s as many Latinos and Asians here as in the Bay,” Khristian says. “People are still moving in. We are one of the oldest, first residents in our area. Everyone on our street is new, all people who moved from the Bay. And most of them commute for work to the Bay.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a pattern that has created a cultural tapestry in Tracy where a small, family-owned operation like Ellis Creamery can thrive—despite being hidden inside an otherwise unremarkable gas station along a strip-mall lined road.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The convenience store at this particular National Petroleum location looks just like the ones you can find at any local gas station. Except, all the way in the back corner, there’s a full-blown bakery and ice cream counter where you can fill up on another kind of fuel: sugar. It’s an unexpected but deliciously welcome surprise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ellis Creamery isn’t where you go to get a scoop of vanilla or chocolate chip ice cream, though they serve that, too. Instead, it’s where you go when you’re in need of tropically-tinted, Pacific-inspired flavors. You might opt for a refreshing scoop of “Kalamansi sherbet”—an “Asian lime” flavor, as Khristian describes it, with enough tang, zip and acid to balance the sugary goodness you’re sure to consume during your visit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Khristian notes how certain flavors like pistachio are popular, particularly among South Asian customers, he says. Other customers may be seeking specialty flavors, like “Ube Cookies and Cream”—a sundae-like original invention which includes a scoop of ube ice cream piled on top of homemade, Oreo-laced cookies and cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919722\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13919722\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"the owner of Ellis Creamery holds up a clear cup of purple ube ice cream with an extra scoop of cookies-and-cream\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-1920x2880.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ube Cookies and Cream is one of Ellis Creamery’s original flavor mixes. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Nothing goes to waste in the Philippines,” Khristian tells me during my visit. “We like to mix things together. By adding something familiar like Oreos or bananas to ube, it not only becomes familiar to more people, but it keeps us from wasting any of our products.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The concept of recycling what’s left over to enhance existing flavors is fully apparent in their version of halo-halo (Tagalog for “mixed”), the unofficial national dessert of the Philippines. The treat includes the usual shaved ice, ube ice cream, sweet kidney beans, coconut jelly and condensed milk—but, at Ellis Creamery, it also comes topped with crushed meringue, an ingredient that’s used in their other products: Filipino cakes and cookies such as Sans Rivals and Silvanas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Having the bakery is a business strategy,” Marie explains. “Ice cream is a seasonal business. We have to be strategic about how we sell during winter. If you look at most Filipino bakeries or ice cream shops, you might get some cookies and brownies, or ice cream. But here we offer more, we offer it all. And we’re using brands and flavors that we used to eat in the Philippines for authenticity.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marie heads the full-fledged baking side of the operation, coming up with recipes in the little bit of free time she has when she isn’t working her full-time role in nursing. Some of her favorites include the Sans Rival (a meringue cake with butter cream filling and crushed nuts such as pistachios covering the outer layer) and ensaymada (a Filipino-style sweet bread that begins as a butter bun brioche roll and ends as a decoratively covered dessert featuring some combination of ube buttercream, parmesan cheese, green tea frosting or dulce de leche).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bakery does custom orders for large private events, and is known for its creative mix of cakes, savory items like pandesal and, starting this fall, meat-filled empanadas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, personally, I wanted to fulfill a family dream,” Khristian says. “Marie’s dream was always to own a shop—a pastry shop, to be known as a good baker. My goal was to fulfill that dream. We’re fortunate to have a knack for food and to be able to serve others our passion.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13898436,arts_13915581,arts_13901303']\u003c/span>During my time in the kitchen, I was introduced to more Filipino flavors and traditions than I’ve ever known. It felt like I was running a food marathon around the Pacific islands—with Khristian leading the way. Salty breads, crunchy rolls, savory fillings, sweet bites, cold spoonfuls. But it may have been the Silvanas that most left their mark on my taste buds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cake-like cookies are layered and crispy—covered in smashed nuts on the exterior—yet fluffy and chewy inside, creating a heavenly balance of hard and soft, easy and resistant, sweet and salty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also not lacking in size or flavor are the ensaymadas—a veritable overload of Filipino indulgence packed into a cupcake-sized goodie. The sheer amount of customizable ingredients and toppings alone are worth the drive to this hard-to-spot business. But I assure you, it’s there. And once you’ve gone, you’ll wish every gas station had an Ellis Creamery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For many Bay Area residents, it’s hard to find the time (and gas funds, ironically) to make the drive over to a gas station in Tracy. Unfortunately, a business like Ellis Creamery doesn’t receive the same amount of attention or support as their hustle merits. The lack of foot traffic is a major hindrance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Ellis Creamery is ready to enter its second year of operation, and with that, they are ready to grow. In the meantime, the business is hitting up markets and events all over the Bay, from Daly City to Vallejo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919724\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13919724\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"three Ellis Creamery workers display a tray of six ensaymadas, which are Filipino sweet rolls that resemble cupcakes\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Khristian Rabut (left), stands with his employees, Roxanne Simon (center) and Carl Ongwico (right) after making a fresh batch of ensaymadas together. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“In Tracy, we’re like a hidden secret,” Khristian says. “Most of our customers here are Asian. But when we do events in the Bay Area, we sell out fast, and many of our customers are diverse. For some of them, it’s their first time trying ube and we also get to introduce them to Filipino pastries.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though it isn’t yet official, they are currently in the process of filing the paperwork for a potential location in downtown San Jose. If all goes as planned, the new venue would be central to a large base of new clientele, particularly students at San Jose State University. It would give Ellis Creamery a foothold in Silicon Valley—the place where it all started for this Filipino couple with a sweet tooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ellis.creamery/\">Ellis Creamery\u003c/a> is located inside the National gas station at \u003cspan class=\"LrzXr\">2420 W. Grant Line Rd., Tracy. It is open Tuesday–Saturday from 9am to 7 pm, and Sunday from noon to 5pm.\u003c/span>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Upcoming pop-up events include a\u003cem> \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reel/Ci1PJBWAJSR/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y%3D\">Filipino American History event\u003c/a> (Pamanas Plantas, 1615B Solano Ave., Berkeley) on Oct. 8 and \u003c/em>\u003cem>the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kpsfopen.org/\">Kunal Patel San Francisco Open\u003c/a> (Goldman Tennis Center, \u003cspan class=\"LrzXr\">50 Bowling Green Dr., San Francisco\u003c/span>) Oct. 15–16.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">Y\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>ou would never guess it, but there’s something transcendent about an otherwise bland National gas station on W. Grant Line Rd. in Tracy. On first appearance, it seems like any ordinary stop point in U.S. suburbia: People pull up in a hurry, fill up on petro, then hop back into their whips and speed off onto a multi-lane road on their way to whatever American Dream they are chasing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But between a Black Bear Diner and RV Center, right along Interstate 205, hides a clandestine gem exploding with Pinoy favorites. Here, at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ellis.creamery/\">Ellis Creamery\u003c/a>, Khristian Rabut experiments with distinctly Filipino ingredients to perfect his ice cream recipes while his wife Marie provides a full lineup of Filipino baked goods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The concept originally began in 2020, when Marie—who works full-time in healthcare—started a home-based business called Marie’s Kitchen as a way to explore her passion for baking. At the time, she wanted to supplement her income and provide a creative outlet. After gaining local recognition, she expanded her business and brought in her husband, Khristian, who purchased their brick-and-mortar gas station location in 2021, taking over the already existing Ellis Creamery. They also hired Khristian’s cousin, Carl Ongwico, to serve as the business’s in-house “ice cream expert.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Together, the family is bringing some of the hottest (and coldest) treats from the Philippine islands to Northern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We went back to food we knew in the Philippines,” Khristian says. “We tried to copy the way we remember eating in the Philippines. It gave us something to focus on during the pandemic, besides our day jobs.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919720\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13919720\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a Filipino cookie, known as a silvana, is sliced open to reveal layers of meringue and butter cream\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_silvana-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Filipino silvana is sliced open to reveal layers of meringue and butter cream. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Khristian first immigrated to San Jose from Lucena, a territory in the Quezon province located south of Manila. He arrived in Silicon Valley in 2007 with a work visa as part of the tech industry’s massive influx of talent from around the globe. Initially, he worked as a consultant trainer with companies like PG&E, Cypress and Infineon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In California, he met Marie—also from Lucena—and the couple returned to their hometown to marry in 2009. When they moved back to San Jose, they realized the cost of living was steeper than they could afford, and with their first child on the way, they made the decision to move an hour east to the commuter city of Tracy in 2014. It’s a migratory trend that still continues today, nearly a decade later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“[Tracy] is diverse. I’d guess there’s as many Latinos and Asians here as in the Bay,” Khristian says. “People are still moving in. We are one of the oldest, first residents in our area. Everyone on our street is new, all people who moved from the Bay. And most of them commute for work to the Bay.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a pattern that has created a cultural tapestry in Tracy where a small, family-owned operation like Ellis Creamery can thrive—despite being hidden inside an otherwise unremarkable gas station along a strip-mall lined road.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The convenience store at this particular National Petroleum location looks just like the ones you can find at any local gas station. Except, all the way in the back corner, there’s a full-blown bakery and ice cream counter where you can fill up on another kind of fuel: sugar. It’s an unexpected but deliciously welcome surprise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ellis Creamery isn’t where you go to get a scoop of vanilla or chocolate chip ice cream, though they serve that, too. Instead, it’s where you go when you’re in need of tropically-tinted, Pacific-inspired flavors. You might opt for a refreshing scoop of “Kalamansi sherbet”—an “Asian lime” flavor, as Khristian describes it, with enough tang, zip and acid to balance the sugary goodness you’re sure to consume during your visit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Khristian notes how certain flavors like pistachio are popular, particularly among South Asian customers, he says. Other customers may be seeking specialty flavors, like “Ube Cookies and Cream”—a sundae-like original invention which includes a scoop of ube ice cream piled on top of homemade, Oreo-laced cookies and cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919722\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13919722\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"the owner of Ellis Creamery holds up a clear cup of purple ube ice cream with an extra scoop of cookies-and-cream\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-1920x2880.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_ice-cream-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ube Cookies and Cream is one of Ellis Creamery’s original flavor mixes. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Nothing goes to waste in the Philippines,” Khristian tells me during my visit. “We like to mix things together. By adding something familiar like Oreos or bananas to ube, it not only becomes familiar to more people, but it keeps us from wasting any of our products.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The concept of recycling what’s left over to enhance existing flavors is fully apparent in their version of halo-halo (Tagalog for “mixed”), the unofficial national dessert of the Philippines. The treat includes the usual shaved ice, ube ice cream, sweet kidney beans, coconut jelly and condensed milk—but, at Ellis Creamery, it also comes topped with crushed meringue, an ingredient that’s used in their other products: Filipino cakes and cookies such as Sans Rivals and Silvanas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Having the bakery is a business strategy,” Marie explains. “Ice cream is a seasonal business. We have to be strategic about how we sell during winter. If you look at most Filipino bakeries or ice cream shops, you might get some cookies and brownies, or ice cream. But here we offer more, we offer it all. And we’re using brands and flavors that we used to eat in the Philippines for authenticity.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marie heads the full-fledged baking side of the operation, coming up with recipes in the little bit of free time she has when she isn’t working her full-time role in nursing. Some of her favorites include the Sans Rival (a meringue cake with butter cream filling and crushed nuts such as pistachios covering the outer layer) and ensaymada (a Filipino-style sweet bread that begins as a butter bun brioche roll and ends as a decoratively covered dessert featuring some combination of ube buttercream, parmesan cheese, green tea frosting or dulce de leche).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bakery does custom orders for large private events, and is known for its creative mix of cakes, savory items like pandesal and, starting this fall, meat-filled empanadas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, personally, I wanted to fulfill a family dream,” Khristian says. “Marie’s dream was always to own a shop—a pastry shop, to be known as a good baker. My goal was to fulfill that dream. We’re fortunate to have a knack for food and to be able to serve others our passion.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>During my time in the kitchen, I was introduced to more Filipino flavors and traditions than I’ve ever known. It felt like I was running a food marathon around the Pacific islands—with Khristian leading the way. Salty breads, crunchy rolls, savory fillings, sweet bites, cold spoonfuls. But it may have been the Silvanas that most left their mark on my taste buds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cake-like cookies are layered and crispy—covered in smashed nuts on the exterior—yet fluffy and chewy inside, creating a heavenly balance of hard and soft, easy and resistant, sweet and salty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also not lacking in size or flavor are the ensaymadas—a veritable overload of Filipino indulgence packed into a cupcake-sized goodie. The sheer amount of customizable ingredients and toppings alone are worth the drive to this hard-to-spot business. But I assure you, it’s there. And once you’ve gone, you’ll wish every gas station had an Ellis Creamery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For many Bay Area residents, it’s hard to find the time (and gas funds, ironically) to make the drive over to a gas station in Tracy. Unfortunately, a business like Ellis Creamery doesn’t receive the same amount of attention or support as their hustle merits. The lack of foot traffic is a major hindrance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Ellis Creamery is ready to enter its second year of operation, and with that, they are ready to grow. In the meantime, the business is hitting up markets and events all over the Bay, from Daly City to Vallejo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919724\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13919724\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"three Ellis Creamery workers display a tray of six ensaymadas, which are Filipino sweet rolls that resemble cupcakes\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/ellis_group-portrait-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Khristian Rabut (left), stands with his employees, Roxanne Simon (center) and Carl Ongwico (right) after making a fresh batch of ensaymadas together. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“In Tracy, we’re like a hidden secret,” Khristian says. “Most of our customers here are Asian. But when we do events in the Bay Area, we sell out fast, and many of our customers are diverse. For some of them, it’s their first time trying ube and we also get to introduce them to Filipino pastries.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though it isn’t yet official, they are currently in the process of filing the paperwork for a potential location in downtown San Jose. If all goes as planned, the new venue would be central to a large base of new clientele, particularly students at San Jose State University. It would give Ellis Creamery a foothold in Silicon Valley—the place where it all started for this Filipino couple with a sweet tooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ellis.creamery/\">Ellis Creamery\u003c/a> is located inside the National gas station at \u003cspan class=\"LrzXr\">2420 W. Grant Line Rd., Tracy. It is open Tuesday–Saturday from 9am to 7 pm, and Sunday from noon to 5pm.\u003c/span>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Upcoming pop-up events include a\u003cem> \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reel/Ci1PJBWAJSR/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y%3D\">Filipino American History event\u003c/a> (Pamanas Plantas, 1615B Solano Ave., Berkeley) on Oct. 8 and \u003c/em>\u003cem>the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kpsfopen.org/\">Kunal Patel San Francisco Open\u003c/a> (Goldman Tennis Center, \u003cspan class=\"LrzXr\">50 Bowling Green Dr., San Francisco\u003c/span>) Oct. 15–16.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "On Being ‘Diasporican’: A New Puerto Rican Cookbook Experiments Without Apology",
"headTitle": "On Being ‘Diasporican’: A New Puerto Rican Cookbook Experiments Without Apology | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Illyanna Maisonet’s bona fides speak for themselves. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Her\u003c/span> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/eatgordaeat/status/1129974952881377280\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">award-winning\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> column about traditional Puerto Rican foodways in the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Francisco Chronicle \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">made Maisonet the first Puerto Rican food columnist in the United States. She is as fierce an advocate for the city of Sacramento as you will ever find—particularly when it comes to the immigrant and working-class food businesses that populate \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/4/14/21216944/south-sacramento-neighborhood-restaurants-coronavirus\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">her neighborhood in South Sacramento\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And when the glossy food magazine \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bon Appetit \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">had its racial reckoning moment of 2020, those who know Maisonet were not surprised that she was the one who kicked the whole thing off. Her series of tweets about the rationale the magazine offered for rejecting one of her pitches—and about the publication’s glaring lack of Puerto Rican food stories overall—ignited such a \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">high-profile discussion of tokenism and racism in food media that the company eventually underwent a massive reshuffling of its leadership and staff. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">She’s never been shy about speaking truth to power.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">She also happens to be a beautiful writer. Maisonet’s full powers are on display in her forthcoming debut cookbook, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/671586/diasporican-by-illyanna-maisonet-foreword-by-michael-w-twitty-photographs-by-dan-liberti-and--erika-p-rodriguez/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diasporican: A Puerto Rican Cookbook\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “Culantro,” she writes, describing an herb central to Puerto Rican cooking, “is like cilantro’s cousin who comes to visit from the hood. Yeah, they’re family. But it’s also way more ‘punchy,’ ‘vocal,’ ‘spirited’—all those politically correct euphemisms—and possibly wearing FUBU.” About the salted codfish fritters known as bacalaitos, Maisonet writes, “The center was toothsome like our gente’s—our people’s—resistance, salty from the tears we’ve shed, but the edges were delicate and vulnerable, like when we reveal our underbellies.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As its title indicates, \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diasporican\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> isn’t meant to be some all-purpose handbook on Puerto Rican cooking. Instead, it’s specifically a book that documents Maisonet’s experience as a Puerto Rican living in the diaspora here in Northern California—and the way the mix of cultures here has informed her cooking. It’s a book that deals with grief and childhood trauma and the long-reaching effects of American colonialism. It’ll also make you want to drop everything and immediately cook up a pot of arroz con gandules or carne guisada, or a sizzling hot plate of tostones.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In advance of the book’s Oct. 18 release date, KQED chatted with Maisonet about nostalgia, the Bay Area’s (somewhat sparse) Puerto Rican food scene and why it took her six years to find a publisher for her book.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The following interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919206\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13919206\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead shot of thin, crispy tostones against a green backdrop, with two dipping sauces on the side.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2395\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-800x998.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-1020x1272.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-768x958.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-1231x1536.jpg 1231w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-1642x2048.jpg 1642w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maisonet’s recipe for tostones includes options for two different dipping sauces. \u003ccite>(Photo by Dan Liberti, courtesy of Ten Speed Press)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Despite the success of your \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/A-pilgrimage-to-the-keeper-of-Puerto-Rico-s-13619913.php\">\u003cb>\u003ci>Chronicle \u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb>column\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>, you (very publicly) had a difficult time finding a publisher for this cookbook. I remember seeing you \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/eatgordaeat/status/1153405911332818949\">\u003cb>tweet about the multiple rejections you received\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>. At one point the celebrated chef-humanitarian José Andrés even \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/eatgordaeat/status/1153442797258547200?lang=en\">\u003cb>took up your cause\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>—still to no avail. Why was the idea of a Puerto Rican cookbook such a hard sell, and how were you able to overcome that challenge?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I can only make assumptions based on my experiences. So when you see “101 Ways to Keto/Paleo/Instant Pot Vegan Beans” for the hundredth fucking time, and there are maybe 10 mass-published Puerto Rican cookbooks from the history of ever, you can only assume that the only difference between you and them is skin color. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s the only thing I can see. Because what everyone said—between the agents that rejected me and the editors that rejected me and the publishers that rejected me—they all had the same thing [to say], which was that there is no market for the book. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I personally think that they are underestimating their audience. In a way, they think consumers are stupid. Clearly we have totally evolved in the ways of global food to the point that Chinese food is not just this amalgamation of what Chinese immigrants \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">think\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Americans want. Now, Chinese food is based on region, and people are requesting it by region. It’s the same thing for Mexican food. And the same thing can be done for other Latino foods. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">They say, “There’s no market,” but technically there wasn’t a market for any of this shit to begin with.\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">By the time I finally got my book published, that proposal had been schlepped around for six years. Almost everybody in the industry had seen it.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Illyanna Maisonet\"]“I literally got my offer the month that George Floyd got murdered. If that wouldn’t have happened, I can guarantee I wouldn’t be in the position that I am right now.”[/pullquote]I’m the kind of person who slips in through the cracks during a transition. So I was ready when 2020 hit and brands and publishers and everybody else were scrambling to do the performative activism and find content creators and artists of color. I was already ready.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I literally got my offer the month that George Floyd got murdered. If that wouldn’t have happened, I can guarantee I wouldn’t be in the position that I am right now.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CMFJ-bC76w\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>A lot of what’s great about \u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci>Diasporican \u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb>is how fresh and bold the writing voice is. Given how challenging it was for you to get your book deal to begin with, did you also have to really fight to keep that voice intact?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I know [my writing] is not for everyone because a woman already gave me two stars on \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.netgalley.com/book/249548/reviews\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">NetGalley\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for cursing. [laughs]\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But because I worked with [since-departed Ten Speed Press editor-in-chief] Lorena [Jones], I did not have to fight to have my voice heard. Remember, this was 2020. This was \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2020/06/09/872697289/chief-editor-at-bon-app-tit-resigns-after-racially-offensive-photo-surfaces\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">post-\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bon Appetit\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, post dragging everyone on Twitter with screenshots\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Lorena already knew what she was getting into. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I feel like some people [in the publishing industry] are prepared to take the risk because they know that money can be made. But mostly, the people that we have to deal with are the middle man, like the acquisitions editors. They’re not hired to have that kind of risk assessment or vision. They’re just there to do what’s comfortable.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I didn’t have to go through a middle man. Lorena \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">was \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the man.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Your book is chock full of delightful recipes, but it also deals with a lot of heavy subject matter—violence, grief, trauma. You write in the intro, “How I became a cook is not a romantic story…There would be no passing down of heirloom cookbooks (I don’t think my grandma ever owned a cookbook), words of encouragement, or time to enjoy a childhood.” While your cookbook \u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci>is\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb> nostalgic in certain ways, it also seems to be fighting against the sentimentality that pervades a lot of food writing, especially the kind trafficking in recipes passed down by grandmothers. Can you talk about the balance you wanted to strike?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I am a nostalgic person, but sometimes nostalgia can be very dangerous, like we’re living in the past or creating a more romanticized version of the past. I am and am not a romantic. I’m not in terms of American consumerism—chocolate and roses for Valentine’s Day. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But I am a romantic in the sense that I can see the beauty in a lot of shit that people pass every day. The reason I was able to come to the middle in the book is because so much time had already passed. (Also therapy. That shit really works!) I was able to dissect [my childhood], heal, and kind of see why my mom and grandma were the way that they were.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My grandma died in 2015; I started writing the book then. It’s kind of like my grief journey.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919214\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13919214\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of stewed beef over white rice, served on a green plate.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2400\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-1229x1536.jpg 1229w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-1638x2048.jpg 1638w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The cookbook is full of homey, satisfying recipes like Maisonet’s version of carne guisada, which she makes with beef chuck roast. \u003ccite>(Photo by Dan Liberti, courtesy of Ten Speed Press)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What is the biggest misperception that people have about Puerto Rican food?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I feel like almost everyone I’ve spoken to thinks that Puerto Rican is spicy. But why would it be? We do have some condiments that make things spicy, but the food itself isn’t spicy. People are always surprised about that when they dig in. They’re expecting spice, and what they get is flavor. Those are the two things I always hear: “Oh, it’s not spicy” and “Oh, it’s so flavorful.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Most people’s preconceptions are that French food is the top tier, be-all end-all. But there are other cultures that share the same [characteristics] when it comes to flavor complexities. In the Caribbean—and a lot of South America and Mexico—there’s a baseline of simple foods that are built with layers of flavor. That’s why a lot of my recipes can’t be whipped up quick.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You write that \u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci>Diasporican\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb> isn’t strictly a Puerto Rican cookbook. Instead, you write lovingly about your neighborhood in Sacramento and about all of the ways that the ingredients and the different food cultures in California have influenced your cooking. Can you explain what you mean by “diasporican” and talk about a recipe that reflects that approach?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13900311,arts_13906189,arts_13895601']I didn’t want the “Purity Ricans,” which is what I call them, to go in with the misconception that the book was only going to be purely traditional Puerto Rican recipes, the way their grandmother used to make it. (And by the way, a lot of their grandmothers are terrible cooks.) That’s the disclaimer: I already warned you. This book gave me the permission to accept that I’m not one of them Puerto Ricans. I was trying my damnedest to prove that I was. I’m not and that’s OK. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It allowed me to do more experimenting without apologizing because it’s \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">my \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">experience as a Puerto Rican growing up in California in the Central Valley, where there were a ton of Mien, Hmong, Lao and Cambodian people, especially when I was growing up in the ’80s and ’90s. They were coming to the West out of the post-war trauma that they were going through.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Saying I’m a “diasporic” and from California allows me to do things like my \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CBdnHPnhUe7/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Puerto Rican laab\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. That recipe was just me putting things together in my brain—the Lao family that I was living with [as a teenager] making papaya salad and laab, and noticing that a lot of the ingredients are really similar. Even though [Puerto Ricans] don’t use fish sauce or padaek, we do use a fresh herb base. That’s sofrito. I always add some at the end [of the cooking process] because it’s that wallop of flavor that I’m looking for. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In Lao food, they use a mortar and pestle; we use a pilon. They mash the garlic; we mash the garlic. They put in the shallots, we put in the onions. Then goes in the basil and the lemongrass and the tomatoes. I was like, \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Goddamn, that looks so similar to Puerto Rican food. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I wondered if I could merge the two. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So that laab dish is just another application of sofrito.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CBdnHPnhUe7/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You have always been a \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c33UqJh-L_g\">big advocate for Puerto Rican food businesses\u003c/a> in Northern California. What are your strongest recommendations?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In San Francisco, the best place to go is \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/parada22sf/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Parada 22\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, but not everything is good. You’ve got to get the sampler. It comes with yucca, tostones, maduros, the pernil and fried chicken. It’s \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">hella\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> good—that’s the only thing I get there.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you’re looking for vegan options, you can really only go to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/casaborinquena/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Casa Borinqueña\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> because \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/9/25/21456267/casa-borinquena-vegan-puerto-rican-mofongo-oakland\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">everybody else cooks with some kind of animal product\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you’re in the East Bay, your only option, in my opinion, is to go to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/laperlapuertoricancuisine/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Perla\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. They have really good bacalaitos, which is codfish fritters. And if you go on the weekend, they have amazing pernil, which is the roasted pork shoulder. They make it the good way where they get the skin nice and thin and crispy, which is super hard to do.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/671586/diasporican-by-illyanna-maisonet-foreword-by-michael-w-twitty-photographs-by-dan-liberti-and--erika-p-rodriguez/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diasporican\u003c/span>\u003c/a> \u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">is out on Oct. 18 from Ten Speed Press. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Illyanna Maisonet's cookbook features delicious, California-influenced recipes for classics like tostones and arroz con gandules.",
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"description": "Illyanna Maisonet's cookbook features delicious, California-influenced recipes for classics like tostones and arroz con gandules.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Illyanna Maisonet’s bona fides speak for themselves. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Her\u003c/span> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/eatgordaeat/status/1129974952881377280\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">award-winning\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> column about traditional Puerto Rican foodways in the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Francisco Chronicle \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">made Maisonet the first Puerto Rican food columnist in the United States. She is as fierce an advocate for the city of Sacramento as you will ever find—particularly when it comes to the immigrant and working-class food businesses that populate \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/4/14/21216944/south-sacramento-neighborhood-restaurants-coronavirus\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">her neighborhood in South Sacramento\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And when the glossy food magazine \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bon Appetit \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">had its racial reckoning moment of 2020, those who know Maisonet were not surprised that she was the one who kicked the whole thing off. Her series of tweets about the rationale the magazine offered for rejecting one of her pitches—and about the publication’s glaring lack of Puerto Rican food stories overall—ignited such a \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">high-profile discussion of tokenism and racism in food media that the company eventually underwent a massive reshuffling of its leadership and staff. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">She’s never been shy about speaking truth to power.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">She also happens to be a beautiful writer. Maisonet’s full powers are on display in her forthcoming debut cookbook, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/671586/diasporican-by-illyanna-maisonet-foreword-by-michael-w-twitty-photographs-by-dan-liberti-and--erika-p-rodriguez/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diasporican: A Puerto Rican Cookbook\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “Culantro,” she writes, describing an herb central to Puerto Rican cooking, “is like cilantro’s cousin who comes to visit from the hood. Yeah, they’re family. But it’s also way more ‘punchy,’ ‘vocal,’ ‘spirited’—all those politically correct euphemisms—and possibly wearing FUBU.” About the salted codfish fritters known as bacalaitos, Maisonet writes, “The center was toothsome like our gente’s—our people’s—resistance, salty from the tears we’ve shed, but the edges were delicate and vulnerable, like when we reveal our underbellies.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As its title indicates, \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diasporican\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> isn’t meant to be some all-purpose handbook on Puerto Rican cooking. Instead, it’s specifically a book that documents Maisonet’s experience as a Puerto Rican living in the diaspora here in Northern California—and the way the mix of cultures here has informed her cooking. It’s a book that deals with grief and childhood trauma and the long-reaching effects of American colonialism. It’ll also make you want to drop everything and immediately cook up a pot of arroz con gandules or carne guisada, or a sizzling hot plate of tostones.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In advance of the book’s Oct. 18 release date, KQED chatted with Maisonet about nostalgia, the Bay Area’s (somewhat sparse) Puerto Rican food scene and why it took her six years to find a publisher for her book.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The following interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919206\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13919206\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead shot of thin, crispy tostones against a green backdrop, with two dipping sauces on the side.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2395\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-800x998.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-1020x1272.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-768x958.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-1231x1536.jpg 1231w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/TOSTONES_Page_1_Image_0001-1642x2048.jpg 1642w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maisonet’s recipe for tostones includes options for two different dipping sauces. \u003ccite>(Photo by Dan Liberti, courtesy of Ten Speed Press)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Despite the success of your \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/A-pilgrimage-to-the-keeper-of-Puerto-Rico-s-13619913.php\">\u003cb>\u003ci>Chronicle \u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb>column\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>, you (very publicly) had a difficult time finding a publisher for this cookbook. I remember seeing you \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/eatgordaeat/status/1153405911332818949\">\u003cb>tweet about the multiple rejections you received\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>. At one point the celebrated chef-humanitarian José Andrés even \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/eatgordaeat/status/1153442797258547200?lang=en\">\u003cb>took up your cause\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>—still to no avail. Why was the idea of a Puerto Rican cookbook such a hard sell, and how were you able to overcome that challenge?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I can only make assumptions based on my experiences. So when you see “101 Ways to Keto/Paleo/Instant Pot Vegan Beans” for the hundredth fucking time, and there are maybe 10 mass-published Puerto Rican cookbooks from the history of ever, you can only assume that the only difference between you and them is skin color. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s the only thing I can see. Because what everyone said—between the agents that rejected me and the editors that rejected me and the publishers that rejected me—they all had the same thing [to say], which was that there is no market for the book. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I personally think that they are underestimating their audience. In a way, they think consumers are stupid. Clearly we have totally evolved in the ways of global food to the point that Chinese food is not just this amalgamation of what Chinese immigrants \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">think\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Americans want. Now, Chinese food is based on region, and people are requesting it by region. It’s the same thing for Mexican food. And the same thing can be done for other Latino foods. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">They say, “There’s no market,” but technically there wasn’t a market for any of this shit to begin with.\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">By the time I finally got my book published, that proposal had been schlepped around for six years. Almost everybody in the industry had seen it.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "“I literally got my offer the month that George Floyd got murdered. If that wouldn’t have happened, I can guarantee I wouldn’t be in the position that I am right now.”",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>I’m the kind of person who slips in through the cracks during a transition. So I was ready when 2020 hit and brands and publishers and everybody else were scrambling to do the performative activism and find content creators and artists of color. I was already ready.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I literally got my offer the month that George Floyd got murdered. If that wouldn’t have happened, I can guarantee I wouldn’t be in the position that I am right now.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/0CMFJ-bC76w'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/0CMFJ-bC76w'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>A lot of what’s great about \u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci>Diasporican \u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb>is how fresh and bold the writing voice is. Given how challenging it was for you to get your book deal to begin with, did you also have to really fight to keep that voice intact?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I know [my writing] is not for everyone because a woman already gave me two stars on \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.netgalley.com/book/249548/reviews\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">NetGalley\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for cursing. [laughs]\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But because I worked with [since-departed Ten Speed Press editor-in-chief] Lorena [Jones], I did not have to fight to have my voice heard. Remember, this was 2020. This was \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2020/06/09/872697289/chief-editor-at-bon-app-tit-resigns-after-racially-offensive-photo-surfaces\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">post-\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bon Appetit\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, post dragging everyone on Twitter with screenshots\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Lorena already knew what she was getting into. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I feel like some people [in the publishing industry] are prepared to take the risk because they know that money can be made. But mostly, the people that we have to deal with are the middle man, like the acquisitions editors. They’re not hired to have that kind of risk assessment or vision. They’re just there to do what’s comfortable.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I didn’t have to go through a middle man. Lorena \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">was \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the man.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Your book is chock full of delightful recipes, but it also deals with a lot of heavy subject matter—violence, grief, trauma. You write in the intro, “How I became a cook is not a romantic story…There would be no passing down of heirloom cookbooks (I don’t think my grandma ever owned a cookbook), words of encouragement, or time to enjoy a childhood.” While your cookbook \u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci>is\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb> nostalgic in certain ways, it also seems to be fighting against the sentimentality that pervades a lot of food writing, especially the kind trafficking in recipes passed down by grandmothers. Can you talk about the balance you wanted to strike?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I am a nostalgic person, but sometimes nostalgia can be very dangerous, like we’re living in the past or creating a more romanticized version of the past. I am and am not a romantic. I’m not in terms of American consumerism—chocolate and roses for Valentine’s Day. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But I am a romantic in the sense that I can see the beauty in a lot of shit that people pass every day. The reason I was able to come to the middle in the book is because so much time had already passed. (Also therapy. That shit really works!) I was able to dissect [my childhood], heal, and kind of see why my mom and grandma were the way that they were.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My grandma died in 2015; I started writing the book then. It’s kind of like my grief journey.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919214\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13919214\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of stewed beef over white rice, served on a green plate.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2400\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-1229x1536.jpg 1229w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Carne-Guisada_Page_1_Image_0001-1638x2048.jpg 1638w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The cookbook is full of homey, satisfying recipes like Maisonet’s version of carne guisada, which she makes with beef chuck roast. \u003ccite>(Photo by Dan Liberti, courtesy of Ten Speed Press)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What is the biggest misperception that people have about Puerto Rican food?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I feel like almost everyone I’ve spoken to thinks that Puerto Rican is spicy. But why would it be? We do have some condiments that make things spicy, but the food itself isn’t spicy. People are always surprised about that when they dig in. They’re expecting spice, and what they get is flavor. Those are the two things I always hear: “Oh, it’s not spicy” and “Oh, it’s so flavorful.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Most people’s preconceptions are that French food is the top tier, be-all end-all. But there are other cultures that share the same [characteristics] when it comes to flavor complexities. In the Caribbean—and a lot of South America and Mexico—there’s a baseline of simple foods that are built with layers of flavor. That’s why a lot of my recipes can’t be whipped up quick.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You write that \u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci>Diasporican\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb> isn’t strictly a Puerto Rican cookbook. Instead, you write lovingly about your neighborhood in Sacramento and about all of the ways that the ingredients and the different food cultures in California have influenced your cooking. Can you explain what you mean by “diasporican” and talk about a recipe that reflects that approach?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>I didn’t want the “Purity Ricans,” which is what I call them, to go in with the misconception that the book was only going to be purely traditional Puerto Rican recipes, the way their grandmother used to make it. (And by the way, a lot of their grandmothers are terrible cooks.) That’s the disclaimer: I already warned you. This book gave me the permission to accept that I’m not one of them Puerto Ricans. I was trying my damnedest to prove that I was. I’m not and that’s OK. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It allowed me to do more experimenting without apologizing because it’s \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">my \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">experience as a Puerto Rican growing up in California in the Central Valley, where there were a ton of Mien, Hmong, Lao and Cambodian people, especially when I was growing up in the ’80s and ’90s. They were coming to the West out of the post-war trauma that they were going through.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Saying I’m a “diasporic” and from California allows me to do things like my \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CBdnHPnhUe7/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Puerto Rican laab\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. That recipe was just me putting things together in my brain—the Lao family that I was living with [as a teenager] making papaya salad and laab, and noticing that a lot of the ingredients are really similar. Even though [Puerto Ricans] don’t use fish sauce or padaek, we do use a fresh herb base. That’s sofrito. I always add some at the end [of the cooking process] because it’s that wallop of flavor that I’m looking for. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In Lao food, they use a mortar and pestle; we use a pilon. They mash the garlic; we mash the garlic. They put in the shallots, we put in the onions. Then goes in the basil and the lemongrass and the tomatoes. I was like, \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Goddamn, that looks so similar to Puerto Rican food. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I wondered if I could merge the two. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So that laab dish is just another application of sofrito.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>You have always been a \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c33UqJh-L_g\">big advocate for Puerto Rican food businesses\u003c/a> in Northern California. What are your strongest recommendations?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In San Francisco, the best place to go is \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/parada22sf/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Parada 22\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, but not everything is good. You’ve got to get the sampler. It comes with yucca, tostones, maduros, the pernil and fried chicken. It’s \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">hella\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> good—that’s the only thing I get there.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you’re looking for vegan options, you can really only go to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/casaborinquena/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Casa Borinqueña\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> because \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/9/25/21456267/casa-borinquena-vegan-puerto-rican-mofongo-oakland\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">everybody else cooks with some kind of animal product\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you’re in the East Bay, your only option, in my opinion, is to go to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/laperlapuertoricancuisine/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Perla\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. They have really good bacalaitos, which is codfish fritters. And if you go on the weekend, they have amazing pernil, which is the roasted pork shoulder. They make it the good way where they get the skin nice and thin and crispy, which is super hard to do.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/671586/diasporican-by-illyanna-maisonet-foreword-by-michael-w-twitty-photographs-by-dan-liberti-and--erika-p-rodriguez/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diasporican\u003c/span>\u003c/a> \u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">is out on Oct. 18 from Ten Speed Press. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "One-of-a-Kind Release Party Combines Turf Dancing, Roller Skating and Beer",
"headTitle": "One-of-a-Kind Release Party Combines Turf Dancing, Roller Skating and Beer | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/icecold3000/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gary “Ice Cold 3000” Morgan\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—a member of Oakland’s globally recognized \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theturffeinz/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">dance crew, TurfFeinz\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—was growing up, he would attend the Boys and Girls Club on 85th and E.14th in East Oakland. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There, he met Stick, an OG community mentor who looked out for Morgan and his friends, encouraging the young men to use the basketball gym and dance room despite not being members. For years, Morgan jokingly told Stick that he would one day donate money to the Club so that other young Oaklanders could benefit from it, too. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Over a decade later, Morgan is keeping his word by hosting a one-of-a-kind event: \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://drinkbaybeer.com/profiles/aleindustries/ale-industries-turf-skate-brewski\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Turf Skate Brewski\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Not only will the evening feature a special-edition beer release from \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.aleindustries.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ale Industries\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, but the TurfFeinz are also throwing \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0kaLabJOv8\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a turf battle\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> featuring dancers and roller skaters. Each turf dancer will pair up with a skater in a team-elimination style dance-off—something Morgan says has never been done. It’s a function that Morgan and his crew hope will merge Bay Area communities that don’t often overlap: turfers, roller skaters and beer drinkers.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/ChqIdIJgzIK/?hl=en\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A portion of the proceeds from the beer sales will go to the East Oakland chapter of the Boys and Girls Club, which Morgan says is in honor of Stick and other positive influences who looked out for him and his crew while they were coming up. Additional donations can be made at the event with a QR code, and will go towards TurfFeinz building a dance studio in their community—though they are only in the planning stages of this concept.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We are a part of this community so we’re looking out for each other and merging different groups together,” says Morgan. “We just want people to come to the space to dance and enjoy themselves. Stick always made sure we stayed positive, so this is something we can do for him.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The beer—appropriately titled “Town Feinz”—is a crisp Kolsch with 5.10 percent ABV (as a tribute to the 510 area code). It’s a typical release for Ale Industries, which continually puts out beers that represent Oakland’s cultural fabrics. Specifically, the brewery’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.aleindustries.com/beer-tbk\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Town Beer Collaboration Project\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> partners with local orgs and businesses including \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.aleindustries.com/blog-news/townroots\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Oakland’s professional soccer team, Roots SC\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, LGBT nonprofit Town Pride and even the Oakland Zoo.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We are a small brewery, but we had one clear goal for a concept of Oakland at the front and center,” says \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jonathan Acosta Rosales, the brewery’s director of marketing and distribution. “\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We wanted to do a limited edition label for specific organizations. We felt like we could do more in telling the stories with the labels, social media and elevating their platform.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919132\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13919132\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"a white beer can with a colorful image of the facial silhouettes of local dancers and information about the beer\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A mock up design for the limited edition “Town Feinz” Kolsch. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Ale Industries)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ale Industries’ involvement with TurfFeinz is monumental, since the dance group has been at the forefront of turfing for decades. The group has been immortalized in murals around Oakland and regularly appears in music videos for rappers, most recently with LA’s YG, as well as \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sp3697UNemg\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">local favorites like ALLBLACK and G-Eazy\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The dance form is unique to the East Bay and, with the help of TurfFeinz, has gone on to represent Northern California culture in international competitions and popular media such as \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Fortnite\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13902507,arts_13914400,arts_13917398']This Saturday night won’t just be about an ice-cold beer drop. It’ll equally be about Ice Cold 3000 and fellow TurfFeinz crew members—\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqkECFUbi7g\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chonkie (who created the “Smeez” dance)\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, T7, Aktive, Kurry, Yaya and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOzwlrR5uc4\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Looney (founder of TurfFeinz)\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—spilling their dance moves and unifying with roller skaters in a playful battle.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It felt like an interesting idea to explore,” Morgan explains. “It’s gonna be a new thing for everybody, including us. This is the first time these three categories are coming together. We’re willing to take that risk.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When it comes to originality and innovation, leave it up to these Bay Area favorites to brew up dance moves \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">and\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> beer notes that are truly expressive.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s about elevating the presence of these Oakland legends in our community and aiding their goal to have a band studio for kids who don’t have an outlet to be creative,” Acosta Rosales adds. “Hopefully this helps them and helps us. Like the TurfFeinz say, ‘I shine, you shine, we shine together.’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://drinkbaybeer.com/profiles/aleindustries/ale-industries-turf-skate-brewski\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Turf Skate Brewski\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is happening at Ale Industries (3096 E 10th St, Oakland) on Saturday, Sept. 13, from 4–7pm. Free.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/icecold3000/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gary “Ice Cold 3000” Morgan\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—a member of Oakland’s globally recognized \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theturffeinz/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">dance crew, TurfFeinz\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—was growing up, he would attend the Boys and Girls Club on 85th and E.14th in East Oakland. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There, he met Stick, an OG community mentor who looked out for Morgan and his friends, encouraging the young men to use the basketball gym and dance room despite not being members. For years, Morgan jokingly told Stick that he would one day donate money to the Club so that other young Oaklanders could benefit from it, too. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Over a decade later, Morgan is keeping his word by hosting a one-of-a-kind event: \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://drinkbaybeer.com/profiles/aleindustries/ale-industries-turf-skate-brewski\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Turf Skate Brewski\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Not only will the evening feature a special-edition beer release from \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.aleindustries.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ale Industries\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, but the TurfFeinz are also throwing \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0kaLabJOv8\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a turf battle\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> featuring dancers and roller skaters. Each turf dancer will pair up with a skater in a team-elimination style dance-off—something Morgan says has never been done. It’s a function that Morgan and his crew hope will merge Bay Area communities that don’t often overlap: turfers, roller skaters and beer drinkers.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A portion of the proceeds from the beer sales will go to the East Oakland chapter of the Boys and Girls Club, which Morgan says is in honor of Stick and other positive influences who looked out for him and his crew while they were coming up. Additional donations can be made at the event with a QR code, and will go towards TurfFeinz building a dance studio in their community—though they are only in the planning stages of this concept.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We are a part of this community so we’re looking out for each other and merging different groups together,” says Morgan. “We just want people to come to the space to dance and enjoy themselves. Stick always made sure we stayed positive, so this is something we can do for him.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The beer—appropriately titled “Town Feinz”—is a crisp Kolsch with 5.10 percent ABV (as a tribute to the 510 area code). It’s a typical release for Ale Industries, which continually puts out beers that represent Oakland’s cultural fabrics. Specifically, the brewery’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.aleindustries.com/beer-tbk\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Town Beer Collaboration Project\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> partners with local orgs and businesses including \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.aleindustries.com/blog-news/townroots\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Oakland’s professional soccer team, Roots SC\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, LGBT nonprofit Town Pride and even the Oakland Zoo.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We are a small brewery, but we had one clear goal for a concept of Oakland at the front and center,” says \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jonathan Acosta Rosales, the brewery’s director of marketing and distribution. “\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We wanted to do a limited edition label for specific organizations. We felt like we could do more in telling the stories with the labels, social media and elevating their platform.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919132\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13919132\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"a white beer can with a colorful image of the facial silhouettes of local dancers and information about the beer\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/feinz-mock-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A mock up design for the limited edition “Town Feinz” Kolsch. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Ale Industries)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ale Industries’ involvement with TurfFeinz is monumental, since the dance group has been at the forefront of turfing for decades. The group has been immortalized in murals around Oakland and regularly appears in music videos for rappers, most recently with LA’s YG, as well as \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sp3697UNemg\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">local favorites like ALLBLACK and G-Eazy\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The dance form is unique to the East Bay and, with the help of TurfFeinz, has gone on to represent Northern California culture in international competitions and popular media such as \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Fortnite\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>This Saturday night won’t just be about an ice-cold beer drop. It’ll equally be about Ice Cold 3000 and fellow TurfFeinz crew members—\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqkECFUbi7g\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chonkie (who created the “Smeez” dance)\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, T7, Aktive, Kurry, Yaya and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOzwlrR5uc4\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Looney (founder of TurfFeinz)\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—spilling their dance moves and unifying with roller skaters in a playful battle.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It felt like an interesting idea to explore,” Morgan explains. “It’s gonna be a new thing for everybody, including us. This is the first time these three categories are coming together. We’re willing to take that risk.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When it comes to originality and innovation, leave it up to these Bay Area favorites to brew up dance moves \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">and\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> beer notes that are truly expressive.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s about elevating the presence of these Oakland legends in our community and aiding their goal to have a band studio for kids who don’t have an outlet to be creative,” Acosta Rosales adds. “Hopefully this helps them and helps us. Like the TurfFeinz say, ‘I shine, you shine, we shine together.’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://drinkbaybeer.com/profiles/aleindustries/ale-industries-turf-skate-brewski\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Turf Skate Brewski\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is happening at Ale Industries (3096 E 10th St, Oakland) on Saturday, Sept. 13, from 4–7pm. Free.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "norte-54-modern-mexican-american-bakery-conchas-pan-dulce-san-francisco",
"title": "Norte 54 Is Innovating Pan Dulce for Today’s Bay Area",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Here’s an outright confession: I’m not a morning pastries kind of guy. Coffee and a bagel? Sure. But when it comes to morning sweets, it takes a certain kind of treat to really get me out of bed. The French and Italian stuff just doesn’t do it for me. I need Mexican pan dulce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you’ve ever bitten into a pillowy, freshly warmed concha, then you know why it’s the most popular morning (and late night) snack for millions of Mexicans of all ages. From the classic chocolate brown and vanilla white flavors to versions whose swirling pinks and oranges resemble a rainbow sherbet spillage, conchas—along with the many other varieties of pan dulce—are a must-have for any madrugada.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So when I heard about \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/norte.54/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Norte 54, a pop-up bakery\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> founded in 2020 by former Nopa pastry assistant Raquel Goldman, I knew I had to tap in. Here, the conchas come with decadent, nontraditional toppings like salted caramel, Duvalin (a Mexican candy) and strawberry—some are even filled with fruit. These modernized conchas are just one part of how Goldman is leading the way for a new wave of Mexican baked goods in San Francisco.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Born in Mexico City, Goldman was mostly raised in Miami before moving to the Bay Area as an adult. While living in the Bay, she discovered the joy of baking and cultural self-expression. She attended the San Francisco Cooking School’s culinary and pastry program in 2018 and has since built a reputation as one of the 415’s most forward-thinking Mexican American bakers. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With original creations like her Poli cake (a sophisticated interpretation of a famous Twinkie-like Mexican cake) and her rendition of a Mexico City-style Garibaldi, the Cole Valley resident isn’t trying to compete with the classic panaderias of the Mission. Instead, she’s creating her own lane, unique to her identity as a “chilanga” who grew up visiting her family in Mexico City but never felt fully seen as a Mexicana. Now, Goldman is reclaiming her roots and serving up some of the hottest pan dulces in the Bay Area. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The pan dulce at Norte 54 was more than enough to get me out of bed and across the Bay Bridge for a morning conversation about heritage, home and concha-shaped happiness.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">********\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: What’s the story behind Norte 54?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Norte 54 is the name of the house where my grandmother lives in Colonia Emiliano Zapata in Mexico City. I started Norte 54 in 2020, baking from my home [in San Francisco] for the first three months of the pandemic. My former boss and co-owner of Nopalito\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">found out and asked me where I was baking. When I told her I was doing it from home, she told me they had space at Nopalito. Everyone was pivoting at that time. Nopalito had just opened a street-serving window on 18th St. to figure out a way to keep going. So I started serving my conchas there and used their kitchen.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919034\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13919034 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a to-go box filled with a variety of Mexican pastries \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A to-go box filled with a variety of Mexican pastries (top: conchas; bottom left: Garibaldis; bottom right: Poli Cakes). \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Can you explain your “modern Mexican baked goods” approach?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s kind of ironic. Conchas have been around for centuries, essentially. There’s nothing modern about that, really. It’s more about leaning into things that I want to look good visually, graphically. That’s a modern design aspect. And we’re in California—I’m trying to tap into local ingredients and highlight seasonal produce. In that sense, it’s modern. I want to stay classic—I don’t want to do anything that is too trendy, I guess. I want to pay homage to a classic panaderia—chocolate, vanilla—as much as possible. I have other ideas and I love what’s happening outside of that in other places, but I want to stay clean and simple. And delicious.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are “Garibaldis”? I’ve never heard of those pastries, but I’m guessing they’re connected to Plaza Garibaldi in Mexico City?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Garibaldi was an Italian revolutionary, a Civil War hero in Italy. Mexico has ties to that because many Italians left Italy during that time, and that’s why Garibaldi Plaza [in Mexico City] is named after him. Once Mexico went into their own Civil War, many Italians left that area. But there was a panaderia in Garibaldi called \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.elglobo.com.mx/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">El Globo\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that survived. The original location opened at Plaza Garibaldi but then became a national chain. The traditional Garibaldi [pastry] is a pound cake with apricot jam and covered in sprinkles. They’re typical in Mexico City. Mine isn’t covered in sprinkles, though. I use amaranth, and instead of only using apricot jam, I use seasonal fruits. I cycle through whatever is available. This week is stone fruit. Heading into fall, I’ll most likely use apple butter or pear compote. Whatever fruits I can get.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are some of the most popular menu items that define your bakery? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Conchas, Garibaldis, novias [sugar buns]. These are pastries I enjoyed while learning techniques from a Mexican baker online. I was exposed to lots of the things he made. Novias are always the same. Conchas I change the topping flavor. And I have a stuffed concha with changing fruit inside. Also, Poli cakes. That’s my version of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2EqosUo9uQ\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a Gansito—with jam, marshmallow and chocolate\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. I get my berries from a local strawberry farmer at the market. “Poli” is his name. He jokingly told me to make Gansitos. So I did and dedicated it to him. I rolled out the Poli cake a year and a half ago. Nothing has its own following like that.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919035\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13919035\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"a knife slices a Mexican chocolate pastry in half, revealing layers of marshmallow, cake and strawberry jam inside\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Goldman slices open a Poli cake to reveal layers of marshmallow, cake and strawberry jam. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tell me about your “churro donut.” I’ve never eaten one before.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s a seasonal item, usually for October. It’s a cake doughnut that gets tossed in cinnamon sugar. I like doughnuts, and I like churros, so I thought making this cake doughnut could be fun. Doughnuts aren’t extremely common in Mexico, but I found a way to justify having them. I want to appeal to the core values of Mexicano culture and flavor. It’s a good marriage of straddling both cultures. Who doesn’t love fried dough?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>San Francisco, particularly the Mission, has a strong lineage of panaderias. How have you been able to learn from what’s already available here while still adding your own touches and flavors? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13899700,arts_13917120']I know many panaderias exist. La Mejor, La Victoria, Luna. They have great pan, conchas, everything. But to be honest, I haven’t bothered too much in seeing what others are doing. I appreciate and enjoy them, but I like to stay in my lane and do my own thing. I’m not trying to do what they’re doing, and I’m not at that scale yet anyways. I’m still operating on a micro level and doing things how I’m able to.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Can you tell us more about your Mexican pastry box delivery service? It reminds me of panaderos in Mexico who sell their goods by going door to door in the neighborhood.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s a box with five items (there’s also a mini version for pickup on Sundays at Grand Coffee). It always has a concha, granola and a chocolate chip cookie. The other two items are rotating specials: maybe tres leches, Garibaldis, or Poli cakes. If I want to try something exciting, I might make a pie de queso (cheesecake). Those are items that won’t come out at markets; they’re just for the box orders and available for one-time orders or subscription. It’s a fun way to play around and experiment. I only offer SF delivery at this time.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s next at Norte 54?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">October is Latinx Heritage Month so there will be lots to look forward to. I’ll be rolling out pan de muerto and these cute little calaveras. It’s a challenging but fun time, since I make so many during that time. It’s just another way for me to tap into my culture.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.norte54.com/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Norte 54\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is open on Tuesdays 10am–2pm at Ferry Plaza Market; Thursdays 3–7pm at \u003ca href=\"http://missioncommunitymarket.org/\">Mission Mercado\u003c/a> (March to November); Tues.–Sun. 11:30am until sold out at Nopalito (306 Broderick St., San Francisco); Wed.–Sun. noon until sold out at Nopalito To Go (3690 18th St., San Francisco); Mexican pastry \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.norte54.com/plans-pricing\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">box delivery available weekly\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (SF only).\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Here’s an outright confession: I’m not a morning pastries kind of guy. Coffee and a bagel? Sure. But when it comes to morning sweets, it takes a certain kind of treat to really get me out of bed. The French and Italian stuff just doesn’t do it for me. I need Mexican pan dulce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you’ve ever bitten into a pillowy, freshly warmed concha, then you know why it’s the most popular morning (and late night) snack for millions of Mexicans of all ages. From the classic chocolate brown and vanilla white flavors to versions whose swirling pinks and oranges resemble a rainbow sherbet spillage, conchas—along with the many other varieties of pan dulce—are a must-have for any madrugada.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So when I heard about \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/norte.54/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Norte 54, a pop-up bakery\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> founded in 2020 by former Nopa pastry assistant Raquel Goldman, I knew I had to tap in. Here, the conchas come with decadent, nontraditional toppings like salted caramel, Duvalin (a Mexican candy) and strawberry—some are even filled with fruit. These modernized conchas are just one part of how Goldman is leading the way for a new wave of Mexican baked goods in San Francisco.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Born in Mexico City, Goldman was mostly raised in Miami before moving to the Bay Area as an adult. While living in the Bay, she discovered the joy of baking and cultural self-expression. She attended the San Francisco Cooking School’s culinary and pastry program in 2018 and has since built a reputation as one of the 415’s most forward-thinking Mexican American bakers. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With original creations like her Poli cake (a sophisticated interpretation of a famous Twinkie-like Mexican cake) and her rendition of a Mexico City-style Garibaldi, the Cole Valley resident isn’t trying to compete with the classic panaderias of the Mission. Instead, she’s creating her own lane, unique to her identity as a “chilanga” who grew up visiting her family in Mexico City but never felt fully seen as a Mexicana. Now, Goldman is reclaiming her roots and serving up some of the hottest pan dulces in the Bay Area. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The pan dulce at Norte 54 was more than enough to get me out of bed and across the Bay Bridge for a morning conversation about heritage, home and concha-shaped happiness.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">********\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: What’s the story behind Norte 54?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Norte 54 is the name of the house where my grandmother lives in Colonia Emiliano Zapata in Mexico City. I started Norte 54 in 2020, baking from my home [in San Francisco] for the first three months of the pandemic. My former boss and co-owner of Nopalito\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">found out and asked me where I was baking. When I told her I was doing it from home, she told me they had space at Nopalito. Everyone was pivoting at that time. Nopalito had just opened a street-serving window on 18th St. to figure out a way to keep going. So I started serving my conchas there and used their kitchen.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919034\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13919034 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a to-go box filled with a variety of Mexican pastries \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_box-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A to-go box filled with a variety of Mexican pastries (top: conchas; bottom left: Garibaldis; bottom right: Poli Cakes). \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Can you explain your “modern Mexican baked goods” approach?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s kind of ironic. Conchas have been around for centuries, essentially. There’s nothing modern about that, really. It’s more about leaning into things that I want to look good visually, graphically. That’s a modern design aspect. And we’re in California—I’m trying to tap into local ingredients and highlight seasonal produce. In that sense, it’s modern. I want to stay classic—I don’t want to do anything that is too trendy, I guess. I want to pay homage to a classic panaderia—chocolate, vanilla—as much as possible. I have other ideas and I love what’s happening outside of that in other places, but I want to stay clean and simple. And delicious.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are “Garibaldis”? I’ve never heard of those pastries, but I’m guessing they’re connected to Plaza Garibaldi in Mexico City?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Garibaldi was an Italian revolutionary, a Civil War hero in Italy. Mexico has ties to that because many Italians left Italy during that time, and that’s why Garibaldi Plaza [in Mexico City] is named after him. Once Mexico went into their own Civil War, many Italians left that area. But there was a panaderia in Garibaldi called \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.elglobo.com.mx/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">El Globo\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that survived. The original location opened at Plaza Garibaldi but then became a national chain. The traditional Garibaldi [pastry] is a pound cake with apricot jam and covered in sprinkles. They’re typical in Mexico City. Mine isn’t covered in sprinkles, though. I use amaranth, and instead of only using apricot jam, I use seasonal fruits. I cycle through whatever is available. This week is stone fruit. Heading into fall, I’ll most likely use apple butter or pear compote. Whatever fruits I can get.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are some of the most popular menu items that define your bakery? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Conchas, Garibaldis, novias [sugar buns]. These are pastries I enjoyed while learning techniques from a Mexican baker online. I was exposed to lots of the things he made. Novias are always the same. Conchas I change the topping flavor. And I have a stuffed concha with changing fruit inside. Also, Poli cakes. That’s my version of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2EqosUo9uQ\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a Gansito—with jam, marshmallow and chocolate\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. I get my berries from a local strawberry farmer at the market. “Poli” is his name. He jokingly told me to make Gansitos. So I did and dedicated it to him. I rolled out the Poli cake a year and a half ago. Nothing has its own following like that.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919035\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13919035\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"a knife slices a Mexican chocolate pastry in half, revealing layers of marshmallow, cake and strawberry jam inside\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/norte54_poli-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Goldman slices open a Poli cake to reveal layers of marshmallow, cake and strawberry jam. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tell me about your “churro donut.” I’ve never eaten one before.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s a seasonal item, usually for October. It’s a cake doughnut that gets tossed in cinnamon sugar. I like doughnuts, and I like churros, so I thought making this cake doughnut could be fun. Doughnuts aren’t extremely common in Mexico, but I found a way to justify having them. I want to appeal to the core values of Mexicano culture and flavor. It’s a good marriage of straddling both cultures. Who doesn’t love fried dough?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>San Francisco, particularly the Mission, has a strong lineage of panaderias. How have you been able to learn from what’s already available here while still adding your own touches and flavors? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>I know many panaderias exist. La Mejor, La Victoria, Luna. They have great pan, conchas, everything. But to be honest, I haven’t bothered too much in seeing what others are doing. I appreciate and enjoy them, but I like to stay in my lane and do my own thing. I’m not trying to do what they’re doing, and I’m not at that scale yet anyways. I’m still operating on a micro level and doing things how I’m able to.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Can you tell us more about your Mexican pastry box delivery service? It reminds me of panaderos in Mexico who sell their goods by going door to door in the neighborhood.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s a box with five items (there’s also a mini version for pickup on Sundays at Grand Coffee). It always has a concha, granola and a chocolate chip cookie. The other two items are rotating specials: maybe tres leches, Garibaldis, or Poli cakes. If I want to try something exciting, I might make a pie de queso (cheesecake). Those are items that won’t come out at markets; they’re just for the box orders and available for one-time orders or subscription. It’s a fun way to play around and experiment. I only offer SF delivery at this time.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s next at Norte 54?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">October is Latinx Heritage Month so there will be lots to look forward to. I’ll be rolling out pan de muerto and these cute little calaveras. It’s a challenging but fun time, since I make so many during that time. It’s just another way for me to tap into my culture.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.norte54.com/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Norte 54\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is open on Tuesdays 10am–2pm at Ferry Plaza Market; Thursdays 3–7pm at \u003ca href=\"http://missioncommunitymarket.org/\">Mission Mercado\u003c/a> (March to November); Tues.–Sun. 11:30am until sold out at Nopalito (306 Broderick St., San Francisco); Wed.–Sun. noon until sold out at Nopalito To Go (3690 18th St., San Francisco); Mexican pastry \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.norte54.com/plans-pricing\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">box delivery available weekly\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (SF only).\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "One of the East Bay’s Best Taiwanese Restaurants Doubles Down on Karaoke",
"headTitle": "One of the East Bay’s Best Taiwanese Restaurants Doubles Down on Karaoke | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In its nearly eight years of business, Dragon Gate Bar & Grille was a one-of-a-kind place in Oakland. As a restaurant, it served, hands down, some of the best Taiwanese food in the area—luxuriously tender \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.noodles.guru/2014/06/go-for-karaoke-stay-for-taiwanese-beef.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">beef noodle soup\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, stinky tofu and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/enter-the-dragon-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">street-style grilled sausages\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> sandwiched around slices of raw garlic. The genuine article. Then, in the back, there were the handful of private karaoke rooms where the real party happened, to the tune of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/dragon-gate-bar-and-grille-oakland-2?select=KaPg5y08CsezocTmBvw4Fw\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">$190 bottle service\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and as many Jay Chou and Jolin Tsai bangers as you cared to belt out.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Then, like so many beloved spots, the restaurant closed mid-pandemic, in January of this year, with barely a whimper and little more than an \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/DragonGateOak/posts/pfbid0oKKk11hdCDhW2CmvdckebYDmRsLAvQRJ4aHNE5uYGT5ULi4fewa5gWVAgoz5Huvl\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">obligatory Eater obit\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Good news, though. In a few months, Dragon Gate will rise again a few blocks away from its original 300 Broadway location at a waterfront spot in Jack London Square proper—the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eastbaytimes.com/2019/10/01/oaklands-longtime-kincaids-closes-after-years-33-years/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">former home of Kincaid’s\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. And owner Johnny Chang is doubling down on what he believes to be the restaurant’s greatest weapon: This time, he says, there will be even more karaoke rooms, and they’ll be bigger and better than before.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">News of the comeback is a welcome relief for Taiwanese food lovers. While \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897272/bay-area-taiwanese-food-scene-nostalgia\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the Bay Area has seen a resurgence of the cuisine\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the past couple of years, Oakland suffered a major setback with the loss of both Dragon Gate and, a few months later, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916312/taiwan-bento-closing-taiwanese-restaurant-oakland\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Taiwan Bento\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Chang says the restaurant faced all of the typical difficulties of these past two years, exacerbated by the amount of real estate it had dedicated to its karaoke rooms, which were unusable for almost the entirety of the pandemic. Left with only the meager income he could generate via delivery app-based takeout, Chang decided it didn’t make sense to renew the lease at Dragon Gate’s original location.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/vmhMJMgIfK/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The success of Dragon Gate 2.0 will, of course, depend largely on whether or not the ballad-belting public is ready to return to karaoke lounges like his in the near future. Karaoke—or “KTV,” as the private-room iteration of it is known in Taiwan—is another of the niche industries that have been disproportionately impacted by COVID shutdowns and people’s shifting levels of comfort around small enclosed spaces. Many of the Bay Area’s most popular karaoke spots have reopened with various COVID safety precautions in place—reduced capacity restrictions, for instance, and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://datebook.sfchronicle.com/music/singing-along-with-full-hearts-karaoke-nights-return-to-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">little shower cap-like microphone covers\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Others simply closed altogether. Chang knows this first hand: He used to run MoneyBox, a KTV-style karaoke spot in Richmond’s Pacific East Mall. MoneyBox closed at the start of the pandemic and just never reopened, despite the hopeful handwritten signs periodically posted in the window. Chang wound up selling the business.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13897936,arts_13916312']Still, Chang is hopeful that customers are ready to return, especially since he plans to design the new Dragon Gate with those safety concerns in mind. “After the pandemic, I think it’s better to have more private rooms—bigger rooms—so people can get together,” Chang says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, the new restaurant’s nearly 14,000 square feet of space (including a back patio) will allow for socially distanced crooning in karaoke rooms that are quite a bit larger than they were at the old location. Not for nothing, the rooms will be swankier too, with sweeping views of the waterfront. The idea, Chang says, is that customers might book one of these rooms for the night and enjoy a full-service dinner there as well.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“In the old style, the room is only for karaoke,” Chang says. “Now it’s different. It’s like your own suite.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As far as the food goes, everything will remain more or less the same. Chang says that whether customers book a private room or sit down for meal in the dining room or at the bar, they should expect to be able to order all of their old favorites—the beef noodle soup, the homey dried-radish omelet and the saucy, umami-forward dish known as “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/enter-the-dragon-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">idiot noodles\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,” with its toppings of fish floss, ground pork and simmered pork belly.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/yBVb1rgIV5/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s been a busy time for Chang, who is in full expansion mode at this late stage of the pandemic. He’s currently juggling about a half a dozen new projects, including a huge Dragon Gate outpost \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://whatnowvegas.com/oakland-born-dragon-gate-bar-and-grille-coming-to-las-vegas/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">opening soon in Las Vegas\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a forthcoming Oakland Chinatown pub focused on late-night Taiwanese street snacks (in the former Eden Silk Road spot), and a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.hotpotnationrichmond.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">new hot pot restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the Pacific East Mall. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The hope is to cap it all off with the return of his Oakland flagship. If all goes well, the new Dragon Gate will open in early 2023, perhaps in time to ring in the Lunar New Year.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dragongate300.com/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Dragon Gate Bar & Grille\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> will open at 1 Franklin St. in Oakland in early 2023.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Dragon Gate will bring beef noodle soup and luxe private karaoke rooms to Jack London Square in early 2023.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In its nearly eight years of business, Dragon Gate Bar & Grille was a one-of-a-kind place in Oakland. As a restaurant, it served, hands down, some of the best Taiwanese food in the area—luxuriously tender \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.noodles.guru/2014/06/go-for-karaoke-stay-for-taiwanese-beef.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">beef noodle soup\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, stinky tofu and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/enter-the-dragon-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">street-style grilled sausages\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> sandwiched around slices of raw garlic. The genuine article. Then, in the back, there were the handful of private karaoke rooms where the real party happened, to the tune of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/dragon-gate-bar-and-grille-oakland-2?select=KaPg5y08CsezocTmBvw4Fw\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">$190 bottle service\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and as many Jay Chou and Jolin Tsai bangers as you cared to belt out.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Then, like so many beloved spots, the restaurant closed mid-pandemic, in January of this year, with barely a whimper and little more than an \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/DragonGateOak/posts/pfbid0oKKk11hdCDhW2CmvdckebYDmRsLAvQRJ4aHNE5uYGT5ULi4fewa5gWVAgoz5Huvl\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">obligatory Eater obit\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Good news, though. In a few months, Dragon Gate will rise again a few blocks away from its original 300 Broadway location at a waterfront spot in Jack London Square proper—the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eastbaytimes.com/2019/10/01/oaklands-longtime-kincaids-closes-after-years-33-years/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">former home of Kincaid’s\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. And owner Johnny Chang is doubling down on what he believes to be the restaurant’s greatest weapon: This time, he says, there will be even more karaoke rooms, and they’ll be bigger and better than before.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">News of the comeback is a welcome relief for Taiwanese food lovers. While \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897272/bay-area-taiwanese-food-scene-nostalgia\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the Bay Area has seen a resurgence of the cuisine\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the past couple of years, Oakland suffered a major setback with the loss of both Dragon Gate and, a few months later, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916312/taiwan-bento-closing-taiwanese-restaurant-oakland\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Taiwan Bento\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Chang says the restaurant faced all of the typical difficulties of these past two years, exacerbated by the amount of real estate it had dedicated to its karaoke rooms, which were unusable for almost the entirety of the pandemic. Left with only the meager income he could generate via delivery app-based takeout, Chang decided it didn’t make sense to renew the lease at Dragon Gate’s original location.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The success of Dragon Gate 2.0 will, of course, depend largely on whether or not the ballad-belting public is ready to return to karaoke lounges like his in the near future. Karaoke—or “KTV,” as the private-room iteration of it is known in Taiwan—is another of the niche industries that have been disproportionately impacted by COVID shutdowns and people’s shifting levels of comfort around small enclosed spaces. Many of the Bay Area’s most popular karaoke spots have reopened with various COVID safety precautions in place—reduced capacity restrictions, for instance, and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://datebook.sfchronicle.com/music/singing-along-with-full-hearts-karaoke-nights-return-to-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">little shower cap-like microphone covers\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Others simply closed altogether. Chang knows this first hand: He used to run MoneyBox, a KTV-style karaoke spot in Richmond’s Pacific East Mall. MoneyBox closed at the start of the pandemic and just never reopened, despite the hopeful handwritten signs periodically posted in the window. Chang wound up selling the business.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Still, Chang is hopeful that customers are ready to return, especially since he plans to design the new Dragon Gate with those safety concerns in mind. “After the pandemic, I think it’s better to have more private rooms—bigger rooms—so people can get together,” Chang says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, the new restaurant’s nearly 14,000 square feet of space (including a back patio) will allow for socially distanced crooning in karaoke rooms that are quite a bit larger than they were at the old location. Not for nothing, the rooms will be swankier too, with sweeping views of the waterfront. The idea, Chang says, is that customers might book one of these rooms for the night and enjoy a full-service dinner there as well.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“In the old style, the room is only for karaoke,” Chang says. “Now it’s different. It’s like your own suite.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As far as the food goes, everything will remain more or less the same. Chang says that whether customers book a private room or sit down for meal in the dining room or at the bar, they should expect to be able to order all of their old favorites—the beef noodle soup, the homey dried-radish omelet and the saucy, umami-forward dish known as “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/enter-the-dragon-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">idiot noodles\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,” with its toppings of fish floss, ground pork and simmered pork belly.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s been a busy time for Chang, who is in full expansion mode at this late stage of the pandemic. He’s currently juggling about a half a dozen new projects, including a huge Dragon Gate outpost \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://whatnowvegas.com/oakland-born-dragon-gate-bar-and-grille-coming-to-las-vegas/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">opening soon in Las Vegas\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a forthcoming Oakland Chinatown pub focused on late-night Taiwanese street snacks (in the former Eden Silk Road spot), and a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.hotpotnationrichmond.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">new hot pot restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the Pacific East Mall. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The hope is to cap it all off with the return of his Oakland flagship. If all goes well, the new Dragon Gate will open in early 2023, perhaps in time to ring in the Lunar New Year.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dragongate300.com/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Dragon Gate Bar & Grille\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> will open at 1 Franklin St. in Oakland in early 2023.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
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"order": 9
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"meta": {
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"id": "fresh-air",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"hidden-brain": {
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
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"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"hyphenacion": {
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"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"order": 15
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"jerrybrown": {
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"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"order": 18
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},
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"title": "Latino USA",
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"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
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},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
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"source": "American Public Media"
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"meta": {
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
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},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
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"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
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"order": 11
},
"link": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw",
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},
"on-the-media": {
"id": "on-the-media",
"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm-3pm, MON 12am-1am",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/onTheMedia.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.wnycstudios.org/shows/otm",
"meta": {
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"source": "wnyc"
},
"link": "/radio/program/on-the-media",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/on-the-media/id73330715?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/On-the-Media-p69/",
"rss": "http://feeds.wnyc.org/onthemedia"
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},
"pbs-newshour": {
"id": "pbs-newshour",
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"info": "Analysis, background reports and updates from the PBS NewsHour putting today's news in context.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/pbs-newshour",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/pbs-newshour-full-show/id394432287?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/",
"rss": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/feeds/rss/podcasts/show"
}
},
"perspectives": {
"id": "perspectives",
"title": "Perspectives",
"tagline": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991",
"info": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/Perspectives_Tile_Final.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/perspectives/",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 14
},
"link": "/perspectives",
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"npr": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432309616/perspectives",
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"planet-money": {
"id": "planet-money",
"title": "Planet Money",
"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
"airtime": "SUN 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/planetmoney.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/sections/money/",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/planet-money",
"subscribe": {
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/planet-money/id290783428?mt=2",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510289/podcast.xml"
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},
"politicalbreakdown": {
"id": "politicalbreakdown",
"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Political-Breakdown-2024-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 5
},
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