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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Frisco Foodies is a recurring column in which a San Francisco local shares food memories of growing up in a now rapidly changing city.\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[dropcap]I[/dropcap] never learned how to fish when I was growing up in San Francisco, but I did learn how to go crabbing. We lived on Treasure Island — or T.I., as the locals call it — back when the man-made island was still an active naval base. All through my childhood, I was surrounded by the damp, salty smell of waves crashing upon an artificial seawall — the cawing of gulls, faint tapping of metal hooks on flagpoles and ever-present foghorn in the distance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On winter nights, when the weather permitted, my friends and I would bundle up and walk out onto the wooden pier with a crab net, a package of defrosted chicken thighs ready to be strapped into the bait cage. As a kid, it was staying up late that made it exciting — the fattest Dungeness mostly fed at night. As a teenager, it was the camaraderie of wind-whipped faces and timing our beers to when we pulled up the net to examine our haul. I learned how to pick a stray crab up off a net — from behind — before it could scuttle away on the pier, then flip it over to see if we were lucky enough to get some roe out of the catch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When our eyes started drooping and our stomachs started growling, we’d head back to the house for a feast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13923170\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13923170\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61775_009_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"Rocky Rivera watches from a camping chair while her cousin-in-law prepares a crab net.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61775_009_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61775_009_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61775_009_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61775_009_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61775_009_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61775_009_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rocky Rivera watches while her cousin-in-law, Alyssa Tiglao (foreground), prepares the crab net at the Pacifica Municipal Pier. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Every Filipino American knows that the first order of duty after placing the crabs in the sink is to cook the rice, which was the only other dish we’d prepare to make it a full meal. Someone would boil the water or fire up the oven, and then each household would cook the crab according to their preferred method. Most of us boiled them in seawater (or salted water) to season the meat. We learned to first freeze the crabs to make them sleepy, then throw them in a steamer pot so that they retained their natural salinity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My sister always took the additional step of cracking each joint and pouring melted butter with garlic, tarragon, chili flakes and lemongrass over the crabs, then placing them in a hot oven to roast. Those extra ten minutes elevated the whole experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the crab was finally ready to eat, the rice pot went still steaming to the table, along with a saucer of tiltilan for each person so we could dip the crab into the mixture of cane vinegar, smashed garlic, salt and pepper before scooping up rice with our hands. Food always tasted better kamayan-style. After each delicious bite, we’d spoon crab liver and roe over the hot rice and savor the luxurious flavor that had only cost us our sleep and mild hypothermia — a cost we were always willing to pay. Each of us would eat at least three Dungeness apiece.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13923173\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13923173\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61768_005_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"Hands tying the rope knots on a crab net.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61768_005_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61768_005_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61768_005_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61768_005_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61768_005_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61768_005_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tying the rope knots on the crab net. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For Filipinos, our connection with crabs is baked right into the culture. According to old folk tales, Tambanokano was a gigantic crab who was a child of the Sun and Moon. He lived in a hole in the bottom of the ocean and controlled the tides with his movement. He was so powerful that every time he opened and closed his eyes, a bolt of lightning would flash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13921079,arts_13915581']\u003c/span>Sometimes when Tambanokano would argue with his parents, he became so upset with his mother, the Moon, that he would chase after her and try to swallow her. The villagers would come out with their drums and scare him away in order to save the Moon — an early explanation for what I assume were lunar eclipses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I thought about those stories during the last dog days of summer this past year, on a day forecasted to be so hot that I’d schemed a coastal escape the night before. I wanted to get an early start toward Highway 1 from Oakland to beat the inland heat, so I called my cousin Nina in Pacifica, crossing my fingers that she was around for an impromptu beach day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I parked at her place, migrating my beach bag to the backseat of her car while she recited, “Hail Mary, full of grace, let us find a parking space.” It must have worked because someone left, and Nina busted a U so fast on the 1, we got honked at. We waved them off. As locals, sometimes audacity is all we got when it comes to prime parking. By 11 a.m. the cars were so backed up along the 1 that they looked like a glittering snake on the cliffside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13923175\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13923175 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61783_022_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"One tiny crab scuttling along the edge of a crab net.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61783_022_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61783_022_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61783_022_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61783_022_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61783_022_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61783_022_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One tiny Dungeness crab — too small to keep — scuttles around the edge of the net. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[aside link1='https://youtu.be/4Ewc9krGDBQ?t=122,Watch: Fishing for the Best Catches at Pillar Point Harbor' hero='https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/Screen-Shot-2022-12-30-at-4.32.13-PM-e1672447239257.png' heroURL='https://youtu.be/4Ewc9krGDBQ?t=122']After soaking up all the rays I could get, I decided to cool off in the surf, which was when a big wave sent something tumbling onto my legs. It was a full-grown Dungeness crab, so close to me I instinctively bent down to pick it up off the sand. In that split second, I thought, “Wait…what do I look like bringing in a whole-ass crab with no cooler to put it in? With my bare hands?!” In that moment of hesitation, the ocean washed the crab away. When I looked over at Nina, I saw a crab at her feet, too, right before it was carried away by an incoming wave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All we could do was shake our heads at the Disney \u003ci>Moana\u003c/i>-like ocean experience. And to both of us?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In all the times my cousins and I played in the ocean together as kids, it had never gifted us a Dungeness to our feet. But now, thousands of miles away from our motherland, the ancestors were kind enough to show themselves through this duo of surfing crabs. Maybe the great Tambonokano was still working his magic on the tides and waves, after all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13923178\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13923178\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61769_003_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"A toddler, bundled up in warm winter clothes, eats a cracker during a family crabbing trip.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61769_003_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61769_003_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61769_003_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61769_003_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61769_003_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61769_003_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The author’s nephew, Kannon Scott-de Leon, on his first crabbing trip. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For the past four years, our family’s crab tradition has been postponed later and later due to the spread of toxic algae in the warming western waters where the Dungeness crabs live. This year’s commercial crab season was supposed to start on Dec. 1, my birthday, before it got pushed back again to the 31st. We’ve played it safe and waited patiently, but the only redeeming quality about having a birthday in December is crab season. Real Frisco heads know this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But with the price of everything in our city going up, and pollution pushing our annual crab feasts further back, this pastime could be soon over by the time my daughter is old enough to throw her own crab net into the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\"]“Maybe that’s the mark of a real San Franciscan: that you love something that no longer exists, or that’s slipping away before your very eyes.”[/pullquote]\u003c/span>The wooden pier on Treasure Island where my family used to crab was condemned, then demolished, a couple years back, replaced by a small ferry pier. And catching Dungeness within the San Francisco Bay hasn’t been legal since the early 2000s anyway. Recently, a young architectural intern showed me a render of plans for the new T.I., in which glass-covered condo skyscrapers would replace the old aviation museum and soldier barracks. Even though those of us who grew up in the tiny island community always knew about the real estate potential and million-dollar view, it’s still strange to see the construction cranes \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/qJVTQi1KXzg\">making those changes a reality\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe that’s the mark of a real San Franciscan: that you love something that no longer exists, or that’s slipping away before your very eyes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13923179\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13923179\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61788_024_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"A nighttime family portrait taken on the pier in Pacifica.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61788_024_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61788_024_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61788_024_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61788_024_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61788_024_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61788_024_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">For Rocky Rivera, crab fishing has always been a family affair. Pictured from left to right: Alyssa Tiglao, Kannon Scott-de Leon, Mark Scott-de Leon, Makai Scott-de Leon, Nina Parks and Rivera. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Yet at the start of every crab season, I still splurge. On Christmas, when my sister is in town, we head over to Ranch 99 or the Pacific Supermarket on Alemany Ave. and prepare a whole platter in the way we know best, extra steps and all. We don’t forget to pick up some newspapers outside of the store — no one reads ’em anyway — and drape them over the table to absorb the butter and hold the shells.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I tell myself that with all the practice from childhood, I could have caught Tambanokano himself with my bare hands. But that magical crab wouldn’t have been pleased. Every responsible crabber knows that we only take what’s necessary and leave the rest for next year’s catch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13921079/mom-tribute-dia-de-los-muertos-filipino-food-altar-frisco-foodies\">Rocky Rivera\u003c/a> is a journalist, emcee, author and activist from San Francisco. She has four musical projects out, three of those with her label Beatrock Music. She released her first book last year, entitled \u003c/em>Snakeskin: Essays by Rocky Rivera\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Frisco Foodies is a recurring column in which a San Francisco local shares food memories of growing up in a now rapidly changing city.\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">I\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp> never learned how to fish when I was growing up in San Francisco, but I did learn how to go crabbing. We lived on Treasure Island — or T.I., as the locals call it — back when the man-made island was still an active naval base. All through my childhood, I was surrounded by the damp, salty smell of waves crashing upon an artificial seawall — the cawing of gulls, faint tapping of metal hooks on flagpoles and ever-present foghorn in the distance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On winter nights, when the weather permitted, my friends and I would bundle up and walk out onto the wooden pier with a crab net, a package of defrosted chicken thighs ready to be strapped into the bait cage. As a kid, it was staying up late that made it exciting — the fattest Dungeness mostly fed at night. As a teenager, it was the camaraderie of wind-whipped faces and timing our beers to when we pulled up the net to examine our haul. I learned how to pick a stray crab up off a net — from behind — before it could scuttle away on the pier, then flip it over to see if we were lucky enough to get some roe out of the catch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When our eyes started drooping and our stomachs started growling, we’d head back to the house for a feast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13923170\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13923170\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61775_009_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"Rocky Rivera watches from a camping chair while her cousin-in-law prepares a crab net.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61775_009_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61775_009_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61775_009_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61775_009_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61775_009_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61775_009_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rocky Rivera watches while her cousin-in-law, Alyssa Tiglao (foreground), prepares the crab net at the Pacifica Municipal Pier. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Every Filipino American knows that the first order of duty after placing the crabs in the sink is to cook the rice, which was the only other dish we’d prepare to make it a full meal. Someone would boil the water or fire up the oven, and then each household would cook the crab according to their preferred method. Most of us boiled them in seawater (or salted water) to season the meat. We learned to first freeze the crabs to make them sleepy, then throw them in a steamer pot so that they retained their natural salinity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My sister always took the additional step of cracking each joint and pouring melted butter with garlic, tarragon, chili flakes and lemongrass over the crabs, then placing them in a hot oven to roast. Those extra ten minutes elevated the whole experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the crab was finally ready to eat, the rice pot went still steaming to the table, along with a saucer of tiltilan for each person so we could dip the crab into the mixture of cane vinegar, smashed garlic, salt and pepper before scooping up rice with our hands. Food always tasted better kamayan-style. After each delicious bite, we’d spoon crab liver and roe over the hot rice and savor the luxurious flavor that had only cost us our sleep and mild hypothermia — a cost we were always willing to pay. Each of us would eat at least three Dungeness apiece.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13923173\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13923173\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61768_005_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"Hands tying the rope knots on a crab net.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61768_005_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61768_005_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61768_005_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61768_005_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61768_005_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61768_005_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tying the rope knots on the crab net. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For Filipinos, our connection with crabs is baked right into the culture. According to old folk tales, Tambanokano was a gigantic crab who was a child of the Sun and Moon. He lived in a hole in the bottom of the ocean and controlled the tides with his movement. He was so powerful that every time he opened and closed his eyes, a bolt of lightning would flash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Sometimes when Tambanokano would argue with his parents, he became so upset with his mother, the Moon, that he would chase after her and try to swallow her. The villagers would come out with their drums and scare him away in order to save the Moon — an early explanation for what I assume were lunar eclipses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I thought about those stories during the last dog days of summer this past year, on a day forecasted to be so hot that I’d schemed a coastal escape the night before. I wanted to get an early start toward Highway 1 from Oakland to beat the inland heat, so I called my cousin Nina in Pacifica, crossing my fingers that she was around for an impromptu beach day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I parked at her place, migrating my beach bag to the backseat of her car while she recited, “Hail Mary, full of grace, let us find a parking space.” It must have worked because someone left, and Nina busted a U so fast on the 1, we got honked at. We waved them off. As locals, sometimes audacity is all we got when it comes to prime parking. By 11 a.m. the cars were so backed up along the 1 that they looked like a glittering snake on the cliffside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13923175\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13923175 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61783_022_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"One tiny crab scuttling along the edge of a crab net.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61783_022_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61783_022_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61783_022_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61783_022_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61783_022_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61783_022_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One tiny Dungeness crab — too small to keep — scuttles around the edge of the net. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"link1": "https://youtu.be/4Ewc9krGDBQ?t=122,Watch: Fishing for the Best Catches at Pillar Point Harbor",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>After soaking up all the rays I could get, I decided to cool off in the surf, which was when a big wave sent something tumbling onto my legs. It was a full-grown Dungeness crab, so close to me I instinctively bent down to pick it up off the sand. In that split second, I thought, “Wait…what do I look like bringing in a whole-ass crab with no cooler to put it in? With my bare hands?!” In that moment of hesitation, the ocean washed the crab away. When I looked over at Nina, I saw a crab at her feet, too, right before it was carried away by an incoming wave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All we could do was shake our heads at the Disney \u003ci>Moana\u003c/i>-like ocean experience. And to both of us?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In all the times my cousins and I played in the ocean together as kids, it had never gifted us a Dungeness to our feet. But now, thousands of miles away from our motherland, the ancestors were kind enough to show themselves through this duo of surfing crabs. Maybe the great Tambonokano was still working his magic on the tides and waves, after all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13923178\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13923178\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61769_003_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"A toddler, bundled up in warm winter clothes, eats a cracker during a family crabbing trip.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61769_003_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61769_003_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61769_003_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61769_003_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61769_003_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61769_003_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The author’s nephew, Kannon Scott-de Leon, on his first crabbing trip. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For the past four years, our family’s crab tradition has been postponed later and later due to the spread of toxic algae in the warming western waters where the Dungeness crabs live. This year’s commercial crab season was supposed to start on Dec. 1, my birthday, before it got pushed back again to the 31st. We’ve played it safe and waited patiently, but the only redeeming quality about having a birthday in December is crab season. Real Frisco heads know this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But with the price of everything in our city going up, and pollution pushing our annual crab feasts further back, this pastime could be soon over by the time my daughter is old enough to throw her own crab net into the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "“Maybe that’s the mark of a real San Franciscan: that you love something that no longer exists, or that’s slipping away before your very eyes.”",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>The wooden pier on Treasure Island where my family used to crab was condemned, then demolished, a couple years back, replaced by a small ferry pier. And catching Dungeness within the San Francisco Bay hasn’t been legal since the early 2000s anyway. Recently, a young architectural intern showed me a render of plans for the new T.I., in which glass-covered condo skyscrapers would replace the old aviation museum and soldier barracks. Even though those of us who grew up in the tiny island community always knew about the real estate potential and million-dollar view, it’s still strange to see the construction cranes \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/qJVTQi1KXzg\">making those changes a reality\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe that’s the mark of a real San Franciscan: that you love something that no longer exists, or that’s slipping away before your very eyes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13923179\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13923179\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61788_024_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg\" alt=\"A nighttime family portrait taken on the pier in Pacifica.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61788_024_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61788_024_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61788_024_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61788_024_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61788_024_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/RS61788_024_KQEDArts_RockyRiveraCrabbing_12192022-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">For Rocky Rivera, crab fishing has always been a family affair. Pictured from left to right: Alyssa Tiglao, Kannon Scott-de Leon, Mark Scott-de Leon, Makai Scott-de Leon, Nina Parks and Rivera. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Yet at the start of every crab season, I still splurge. On Christmas, when my sister is in town, we head over to Ranch 99 or the Pacific Supermarket on Alemany Ave. and prepare a whole platter in the way we know best, extra steps and all. We don’t forget to pick up some newspapers outside of the store — no one reads ’em anyway — and drape them over the table to absorb the butter and hold the shells.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I tell myself that with all the practice from childhood, I could have caught Tambanokano himself with my bare hands. But that magical crab wouldn’t have been pleased. Every responsible crabber knows that we only take what’s necessary and leave the rest for next year’s catch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13921079/mom-tribute-dia-de-los-muertos-filipino-food-altar-frisco-foodies\">Rocky Rivera\u003c/a> is a journalist, emcee, author and activist from San Francisco. She has four musical projects out, three of those with her label Beatrock Music. She released her first book last year, entitled \u003c/em>Snakeskin: Essays by Rocky Rivera\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Celebrate New Year's Eve with Purity — a More Inclusive Natural Winery",
"headTitle": "Celebrate New Year’s Eve with Purity — a More Inclusive Natural Winery | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>“Fruitful,” “organic” and “natural” are words that often feel gimmicky, especially when they’re used to market wine. But at \u003ca href=\"https://www.puritywine.net/origins\">Purity Wine\u003c/a>, a small, unassuming warehouse bar and winery hidden along Richmond’s waterfront marina, those adjectives are mentioned genuinely to describe a growing, intergenerational community of natural winemakers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We were just fucking around, having fun,” says founder Noel Diaz. “It’s a mix of creatives. We don’t overthink anything. It has never been forced. It’s just natural.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Earlier this year, the winery began throwing monthly “Wine Down” parties featuring local DJs, visual artists, foodmakers and other community members. The gatherings are curated by \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bussdowncollective/\">Bussdown\u003c/a>, an umbrella of young creatives who host a variety of functions around the Bay Area, including vintage clothing markets and underground hip-hop events. After meeting Diaz and his wife Barrie Quan, who runs operations at Purity, Bussdown’s organizers happily entered the natural wine world as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, the fruits of their collective labor will culminate with the winery’s final party of the year, “NYE Wine Down” — a celebration that promises to pop more than a few bottles. The $75 event will include an entire night’s supply of natural wines, bites provided by \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13914042/smax-okonomiyaki-chopped-cheese-asian-american-pop-up-vallejo-san-francisco\">Asian American food pop-up SMAX\u003c/a> and, for the first 30 arrivals, a hand-painted, limited-edition bottle of Purity’s unreleased “Strawberry Bubblicious” pétillant naturel (or pét-nat) — a pink sparkling wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13923097\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13923097\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_shido.jpg\" alt=\"A man crouches down to paint a wine bottle with a can of pink spray paint.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_shido.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_shido-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_shido-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_shido-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_shido-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_shido-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Visual artist and label designer Shido paints bottles of “Strawberry Bubblicious” in preparation for Purity’s “NYE Wine Down.” \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The party is meant to share Purity’s intersectional culture of accessibility, joy, art, music, food and, of course, “natty wines” with old and new friends alike. That includes welcoming more \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13917165/preeti-mistry-wants-to-show-that-wine-pairing-isnt-just-for-white-food\">young folks of color who might have felt excluded from the wine scene in the past\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’ve been in the natural wine business all my life,” Diaz says. “I’ve seen it progress from an obscure thing to a fad, and now there’s so many more people who have heard about it and are interested. I hope that allows for more inclusiveness.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Diaz, whose parents were Mexican farm laborers in the Central Valley, began making natural wines over a decade ago. Since then, he’s made an active effort to expand the natural wine scene in fresh directions, partnering with small vineyards and non-traditional clients to increase the visibility and availability of natural wines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collaborations like 2021’s “Uncle Larry’s Natural Orange” with \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2022/9/7/23341092/larry-june-purity-wine-collab\">San Francisco rapper Larry June\u003c/a> and 2020’s “\u003ca href=\"https://www.chrisjames.world/grapestreetestate\">Grape Street Estate\u003c/a>” with Los Angeles rapper 03 Greedo highlight Diaz’s vision to deliver natural wines to a wide range of consumers who might not typically go out of their way to find a bottle of Verdelho or Zinfandel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13923098\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13923098\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_naturalorange.jpg\" alt=\"Close-up of two wine bottles; the white and orange label on the left reads "Uncle Larry's Natural Orange" while the purple label on the right reads "Grape Street Estate."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_naturalorange.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_naturalorange-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_naturalorange-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_naturalorange-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_naturalorange-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_naturalorange-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Joog displays a bottle of Uncle Larry’s Natural Orange (left) and 03 Greedo’s Grape Street Estate — both made in collaboration with California-based rappers. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>His unorthodox approach to winemaking is what attracted members of Bussdown, including SMAX’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/joogmac/?hl=en\">Joog\u003c/a> and visual artist \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/artbyshido/?hl=en\">Shido\u003c/a>, who have joined Diaz on the mission to demystify natural wines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We wanted to make the natural wine space more accessible to our community — POC, brown folks, creatives,” says Joog, a Filipino American from Vallejo who is \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tallteesound/\">a musician in addition to running his food pop-up\u003c/a>. “That’s our main community. We’ve found that natural wine feels like it doesn’t belong to us. We wanted to change that naturally. There’s no pretense to it. We just want it open to anyone.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They aren’t hyperbolizing, either. There’s an ultra chill, funky vibe at the Study Wine Bar inside Purity, which has become a hot spot for an eclectic swath of natty wine lovers around the East Bay. After opening in 2017 as a cooperative of five natural winemakers, Diaz has since grown his space into a loose collective of 14 small-batch wine producers who each subscribe to similar values of organic, zero-zero production (i.e., with zero additives).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For anyone who might be unfamiliar with or skeptical of natural wines, Joog — who is learning the craft from Diaz in his spare time — explains them simply as wines made with “fruit and finesse.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s about winemakers letting the fruits express themselves,” he says. “The product gets closer to the actual fruit. No additives, only organic farming, nothing added, just fermented fruit.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I have no wine background,” he continues. “Noel created a space for me, even if I didn’t know the technical parts. I come from drinking White Claws; it’s like mystery alcohol (laughs). It’s about unlearning those things and getting closer to the fruits grown here in California.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13917165,arts_13902507,arts_13921461']That appreciation for the natural, the unfiltered, the raw, is at the core of Purity Wine — not only for the products the winemakers deliver, but with their way of socializing, which aims to replace the perceived snobbery of a typical wine experience with purely welcoming vibes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This has been one of the more fruitful passion projects I got to do,” says Shido, who designs labels for the group. “We’re just vibing. It’s affirming to share that with others.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Purity’s current wine collection includes the Yummo (a 2021 orange muscat), the Toesen One (a mix of grapes, blackberries, apples, and pluots from 2022) and the Orange Carbo Crush (a 2019 sparkling marsanne and roussanne blend).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This dynamic, multi-generational group is ten-toes down in the natural wine game, literally: Diaz and Shido both mashed grapes with their feet to make the Toesen One (a play on “chosen one”). It’s that “hippie” spirit, as Diaz puts it, that allows them to continue blending alternative ideas with quirky flavors and pouring up that positive energy for others. For one final time in 2022, they want to celebrate that with the public.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Everyone gets to participate here,” says Diaz. “This is meant for us all to share and experience.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The Study Wine Bar’s\u003c/i> \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cl6mAi1JMPg/?hl=en\">\u003ci>NYE Wine Down\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will take place at 1401 Marina Way in Richmond on Sat., Dec. 31 from 9 p.m. until the party ends. Tickets are $75 per person and include all wine and bites for the night. For tickets, Venmo @PurityWine and include your name and “NYE.”\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>“Fruitful,” “organic” and “natural” are words that often feel gimmicky, especially when they’re used to market wine. But at \u003ca href=\"https://www.puritywine.net/origins\">Purity Wine\u003c/a>, a small, unassuming warehouse bar and winery hidden along Richmond’s waterfront marina, those adjectives are mentioned genuinely to describe a growing, intergenerational community of natural winemakers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We were just fucking around, having fun,” says founder Noel Diaz. “It’s a mix of creatives. We don’t overthink anything. It has never been forced. It’s just natural.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Earlier this year, the winery began throwing monthly “Wine Down” parties featuring local DJs, visual artists, foodmakers and other community members. The gatherings are curated by \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bussdowncollective/\">Bussdown\u003c/a>, an umbrella of young creatives who host a variety of functions around the Bay Area, including vintage clothing markets and underground hip-hop events. After meeting Diaz and his wife Barrie Quan, who runs operations at Purity, Bussdown’s organizers happily entered the natural wine world as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, the fruits of their collective labor will culminate with the winery’s final party of the year, “NYE Wine Down” — a celebration that promises to pop more than a few bottles. The $75 event will include an entire night’s supply of natural wines, bites provided by \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13914042/smax-okonomiyaki-chopped-cheese-asian-american-pop-up-vallejo-san-francisco\">Asian American food pop-up SMAX\u003c/a> and, for the first 30 arrivals, a hand-painted, limited-edition bottle of Purity’s unreleased “Strawberry Bubblicious” pétillant naturel (or pét-nat) — a pink sparkling wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13923097\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13923097\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_shido.jpg\" alt=\"A man crouches down to paint a wine bottle with a can of pink spray paint.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_shido.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_shido-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_shido-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_shido-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_shido-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_shido-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Visual artist and label designer Shido paints bottles of “Strawberry Bubblicious” in preparation for Purity’s “NYE Wine Down.” \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The party is meant to share Purity’s intersectional culture of accessibility, joy, art, music, food and, of course, “natty wines” with old and new friends alike. That includes welcoming more \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13917165/preeti-mistry-wants-to-show-that-wine-pairing-isnt-just-for-white-food\">young folks of color who might have felt excluded from the wine scene in the past\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’ve been in the natural wine business all my life,” Diaz says. “I’ve seen it progress from an obscure thing to a fad, and now there’s so many more people who have heard about it and are interested. I hope that allows for more inclusiveness.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Diaz, whose parents were Mexican farm laborers in the Central Valley, began making natural wines over a decade ago. Since then, he’s made an active effort to expand the natural wine scene in fresh directions, partnering with small vineyards and non-traditional clients to increase the visibility and availability of natural wines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collaborations like 2021’s “Uncle Larry’s Natural Orange” with \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2022/9/7/23341092/larry-june-purity-wine-collab\">San Francisco rapper Larry June\u003c/a> and 2020’s “\u003ca href=\"https://www.chrisjames.world/grapestreetestate\">Grape Street Estate\u003c/a>” with Los Angeles rapper 03 Greedo highlight Diaz’s vision to deliver natural wines to a wide range of consumers who might not typically go out of their way to find a bottle of Verdelho or Zinfandel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13923098\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13923098\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_naturalorange.jpg\" alt=\"Close-up of two wine bottles; the white and orange label on the left reads "Uncle Larry's Natural Orange" while the purple label on the right reads "Grape Street Estate."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_naturalorange.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_naturalorange-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_naturalorange-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_naturalorange-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_naturalorange-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/purity_naturalorange-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Joog displays a bottle of Uncle Larry’s Natural Orange (left) and 03 Greedo’s Grape Street Estate — both made in collaboration with California-based rappers. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>His unorthodox approach to winemaking is what attracted members of Bussdown, including SMAX’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/joogmac/?hl=en\">Joog\u003c/a> and visual artist \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/artbyshido/?hl=en\">Shido\u003c/a>, who have joined Diaz on the mission to demystify natural wines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We wanted to make the natural wine space more accessible to our community — POC, brown folks, creatives,” says Joog, a Filipino American from Vallejo who is \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tallteesound/\">a musician in addition to running his food pop-up\u003c/a>. “That’s our main community. We’ve found that natural wine feels like it doesn’t belong to us. We wanted to change that naturally. There’s no pretense to it. We just want it open to anyone.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They aren’t hyperbolizing, either. There’s an ultra chill, funky vibe at the Study Wine Bar inside Purity, which has become a hot spot for an eclectic swath of natty wine lovers around the East Bay. After opening in 2017 as a cooperative of five natural winemakers, Diaz has since grown his space into a loose collective of 14 small-batch wine producers who each subscribe to similar values of organic, zero-zero production (i.e., with zero additives).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For anyone who might be unfamiliar with or skeptical of natural wines, Joog — who is learning the craft from Diaz in his spare time — explains them simply as wines made with “fruit and finesse.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s about winemakers letting the fruits express themselves,” he says. “The product gets closer to the actual fruit. No additives, only organic farming, nothing added, just fermented fruit.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I have no wine background,” he continues. “Noel created a space for me, even if I didn’t know the technical parts. I come from drinking White Claws; it’s like mystery alcohol (laughs). It’s about unlearning those things and getting closer to the fruits grown here in California.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>That appreciation for the natural, the unfiltered, the raw, is at the core of Purity Wine — not only for the products the winemakers deliver, but with their way of socializing, which aims to replace the perceived snobbery of a typical wine experience with purely welcoming vibes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This has been one of the more fruitful passion projects I got to do,” says Shido, who designs labels for the group. “We’re just vibing. It’s affirming to share that with others.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Purity’s current wine collection includes the Yummo (a 2021 orange muscat), the Toesen One (a mix of grapes, blackberries, apples, and pluots from 2022) and the Orange Carbo Crush (a 2019 sparkling marsanne and roussanne blend).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This dynamic, multi-generational group is ten-toes down in the natural wine game, literally: Diaz and Shido both mashed grapes with their feet to make the Toesen One (a play on “chosen one”). It’s that “hippie” spirit, as Diaz puts it, that allows them to continue blending alternative ideas with quirky flavors and pouring up that positive energy for others. For one final time in 2022, they want to celebrate that with the public.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Everyone gets to participate here,” says Diaz. “This is meant for us all to share and experience.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The Study Wine Bar’s\u003c/i> \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cl6mAi1JMPg/?hl=en\">\u003ci>NYE Wine Down\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will take place at 1401 Marina Way in Richmond on Sat., Dec. 31 from 9 p.m. until the party ends. Tickets are $75 per person and include all wine and bites for the night. For tickets, Venmo @PurityWine and include your name and “NYE.”\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "An East Bay Chef's Japanese New Year Meals Celebrate Intergenerational Joy",
"headTitle": "An East Bay Chef’s Japanese New Year Meals Celebrate Intergenerational Joy | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>As a teenager growing up in the East Bay, Yuji Ishikata veered away from formal schooling. Instead, he gained his education by working at local restaurants and grocery stores, including Berkeley Bowl and \u003ca href=\"https://www.tokyofish.net/\">Tokyo Fish Market\u003c/a>. As a Yonsei — a fourth-generation Japanese American — that’s where he embraced his community of elders and peers while developing a love for culinary expression.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now a chef with over 15 years of experience in the food industry, Ishikata is inviting others to experience the tight-knit traditions he was raised around. And for him, there’s nothing more representative of those traditions than Japanese New Year, which he’ll ring in with a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CmW4euKvEBN/?hl=en\">one-day pop-up\u003c/a> featuring dishes rooted in the childhood nostalgia and intergenerational joy inherent to the holiday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s so many different types of foods that represent different aspects of life in Japanese culture,” says Ishikata, who currently works as the Nutrition Program Chef at \u003ca href=\"https://j-sei.org/\">J-Sei\u003c/a>, a senior-focused Asian American cultural center. “I remember those smells. These are things my grandma, aunties and uncles cooked every New Year. I want to modernize it and introduce it to anyone who wants food that represents the Japanese New Year with love and soul put into it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13923024\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13923024\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_chefyuji.jpg\" alt=\"Chef in a baseball cap and a sleeve tattoo leans over a table of Japanese New Year's boxes that he's preparing.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_chefyuji.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_chefyuji-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_chefyuji-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_chefyuji-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_chefyuji-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_chefyuji-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Yuji Ishikata cut his teeth in the food industry as an East Bay teen, working at places like Berkeley Bowl and Tokyo Fish Market. \u003ccite>(J-Sei)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ishikata recalls an open-door policy among older Japanese immigrants and Japanese American neighbors who would serve special holiday dishes for friends and guests as a way to start the calendar year with community, intention and gratitude. That’s the spirit Ishikata is bringing to his New Year’s pop-up, a collaboration with Berkeley’s Tokyo Fish Market that he’s calling “\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Clm30ckLEHb/\">Oshogatsu Offering.\u003c/a>”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu will offer four meal options: an ozoni soup kit, for making a fish broth–based mochi soup that Japanese households eat on New Year’s Day; hamachi kama (the fatty, oily collar of yellowtail fish marinated in sake pulp); a temaki hand roll kit — a create-your-own-adventure food experience that allows diners to make their own sushi with spicy tuna, salmon skin and roe, pickled plums, shiso and more; and the osechi ryori box, the traditional full-fledged holiday meal whose components — including chikuzenni (simmered chicken and root vegetables), umami no ebi (simmered shrimp) and namasu (daikon and carrot salad) — are served up in decorative boxes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s no accident that the foods are steeped in shareability and customization, a reflection of a generous collective mindset and language of exchange. In Ishikata’s rendition, an order of one of the large meals will feed four to six people; ordering all four meals can feed up to 20. The experience is meant to highlight the holiday’s flair as much as its large flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13923025\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13923025\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_salad.jpg\" alt=\"Many wooden boxes filled with traditional Japanese New Year's dishes, including colorful fish cakes, daikon and carrot salad, and sweet black soybeans.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_salad.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_salad-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_salad-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_salad-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_salad-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_salad-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_salad-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Namasu (daikon and carrot salad), sweet black soybeans and other traditional New Year’s dishes. \u003ccite>(J-Sei)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“When you open the box, it’s a celebratory time,” says Ishikata. “I want to be able to share this New Year’s thing because I want to make it special for everybody. It was always a big party.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13920714,arts_13921917,arts_13904788']Each meal is carefully prepared with attention to “Japanese aesthetics,” like floral patterns on the vegetables created with delicate knife-work meant to elicit the individual beauty of each ingredient. Ishikata is also deliberate with where he sources his produce, having built a relationship with Japanese-owned \u003ca href=\"https://www.goodeggs.com/hikarifarms\">Hikari Farms\u003c/a> in Watsonville. Though the farm’s founders are now 99 and 101 years old, Ishikata hopes to continue their legacy by working with the new owner who has inherited her family’s mission.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“As a chef, this is a special place to me. I’ve taken it seriously as my responsibility to represent for us, regardless of our ethnicity, to be that voice to show that our generation cares about these things,” he says. “If we don’t, who will?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The Oshogatsu Offering Japanese New Year’s meals are available to order at Tokyo Fish Market (1220 San Pablo Ave., Berkeley) from now through Dec. 24. Pickups will take place at J-Sei (1285 66th St., Emeryville) on Jan. 1, 2023, at noon, 1 p.m., and 2 p.m. Prices vary from $15–300. For further details or inquiries, contact Yuji Ishikata on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ishikatanotabekata/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Instagram\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>As a teenager growing up in the East Bay, Yuji Ishikata veered away from formal schooling. Instead, he gained his education by working at local restaurants and grocery stores, including Berkeley Bowl and \u003ca href=\"https://www.tokyofish.net/\">Tokyo Fish Market\u003c/a>. As a Yonsei — a fourth-generation Japanese American — that’s where he embraced his community of elders and peers while developing a love for culinary expression.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now a chef with over 15 years of experience in the food industry, Ishikata is inviting others to experience the tight-knit traditions he was raised around. And for him, there’s nothing more representative of those traditions than Japanese New Year, which he’ll ring in with a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CmW4euKvEBN/?hl=en\">one-day pop-up\u003c/a> featuring dishes rooted in the childhood nostalgia and intergenerational joy inherent to the holiday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s so many different types of foods that represent different aspects of life in Japanese culture,” says Ishikata, who currently works as the Nutrition Program Chef at \u003ca href=\"https://j-sei.org/\">J-Sei\u003c/a>, a senior-focused Asian American cultural center. “I remember those smells. These are things my grandma, aunties and uncles cooked every New Year. I want to modernize it and introduce it to anyone who wants food that represents the Japanese New Year with love and soul put into it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13923024\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13923024\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_chefyuji.jpg\" alt=\"Chef in a baseball cap and a sleeve tattoo leans over a table of Japanese New Year's boxes that he's preparing.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_chefyuji.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_chefyuji-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_chefyuji-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_chefyuji-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_chefyuji-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_chefyuji-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Yuji Ishikata cut his teeth in the food industry as an East Bay teen, working at places like Berkeley Bowl and Tokyo Fish Market. \u003ccite>(J-Sei)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ishikata recalls an open-door policy among older Japanese immigrants and Japanese American neighbors who would serve special holiday dishes for friends and guests as a way to start the calendar year with community, intention and gratitude. That’s the spirit Ishikata is bringing to his New Year’s pop-up, a collaboration with Berkeley’s Tokyo Fish Market that he’s calling “\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Clm30ckLEHb/\">Oshogatsu Offering.\u003c/a>”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu will offer four meal options: an ozoni soup kit, for making a fish broth–based mochi soup that Japanese households eat on New Year’s Day; hamachi kama (the fatty, oily collar of yellowtail fish marinated in sake pulp); a temaki hand roll kit — a create-your-own-adventure food experience that allows diners to make their own sushi with spicy tuna, salmon skin and roe, pickled plums, shiso and more; and the osechi ryori box, the traditional full-fledged holiday meal whose components — including chikuzenni (simmered chicken and root vegetables), umami no ebi (simmered shrimp) and namasu (daikon and carrot salad) — are served up in decorative boxes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s no accident that the foods are steeped in shareability and customization, a reflection of a generous collective mindset and language of exchange. In Ishikata’s rendition, an order of one of the large meals will feed four to six people; ordering all four meals can feed up to 20. The experience is meant to highlight the holiday’s flair as much as its large flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13923025\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13923025\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_salad.jpg\" alt=\"Many wooden boxes filled with traditional Japanese New Year's dishes, including colorful fish cakes, daikon and carrot salad, and sweet black soybeans.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_salad.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_salad-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_salad-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_salad-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_salad-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_salad-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/osechi_salad-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Namasu (daikon and carrot salad), sweet black soybeans and other traditional New Year’s dishes. \u003ccite>(J-Sei)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“When you open the box, it’s a celebratory time,” says Ishikata. “I want to be able to share this New Year’s thing because I want to make it special for everybody. It was always a big party.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Each meal is carefully prepared with attention to “Japanese aesthetics,” like floral patterns on the vegetables created with delicate knife-work meant to elicit the individual beauty of each ingredient. Ishikata is also deliberate with where he sources his produce, having built a relationship with Japanese-owned \u003ca href=\"https://www.goodeggs.com/hikarifarms\">Hikari Farms\u003c/a> in Watsonville. Though the farm’s founders are now 99 and 101 years old, Ishikata hopes to continue their legacy by working with the new owner who has inherited her family’s mission.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“As a chef, this is a special place to me. I’ve taken it seriously as my responsibility to represent for us, regardless of our ethnicity, to be that voice to show that our generation cares about these things,” he says. “If we don’t, who will?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The Oshogatsu Offering Japanese New Year’s meals are available to order at Tokyo Fish Market (1220 San Pablo Ave., Berkeley) from now through Dec. 24. Pickups will take place at J-Sei (1285 66th St., Emeryville) on Jan. 1, 2023, at noon, 1 p.m., and 2 p.m. Prices vary from $15–300. For further details or inquiries, contact Yuji Ishikata on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ishikatanotabekata/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Instagram\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>If you’re going to use Bay Area slang, use it right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Slap” is a term used in this region since the early 2000s to describe the sound of music laden with hard-hitting 808 drum machine beats and heavy bass lines. It’s not a word to describe a quality sandwich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While language, especially slang, is full of words with multiple meanings, many folks from the soil have been on a mission to set the record straight on how the lingo should be used.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This week on Rightnowish, we’re diving deep into the etymology of the term and clarifying how it’s best applied.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c!-- iframe plugin v.4.3 wordpress.org/plugins/iframe/ -->\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe loading=\"lazy\" frameborder=\"0\" height=\"200\" scrolling=\"no\" src=\"https://playlist.megaphone.fm/?e=KQINC7779286777\" width=\"100%\" class=\"iframe-class\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This piece was originally published as a written article in January 2022, you can find that \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13908052/food-doesnt-slap\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">by clicking here\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Rightnowish is an arts and culture podcast produced at KQED. Listen to it wherever you get your podcasts or click the play button at the top of this page and subscribe to the show on \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/721590300/rightnowish\">NPR One\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://open.spotify.com/show/7kEJuafTzTVan7B78ttz1I\">Spotify\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/rightnowish/id1482187648\">Apple Podcasts\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://tunein.com/podcasts/Arts--Culture-Podcasts/Rightnowish-p1258245/\">TuneIn\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/rightnowish\">Stitcher\u003c/a> or wherever you get your podcasts. \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]=\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>If you’re going to use Bay Area slang, use it right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Slap” is a term used in this region since the early 2000s to describe the sound of music laden with hard-hitting 808 drum machine beats and heavy bass lines. It’s not a word to describe a quality sandwich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While language, especially slang, is full of words with multiple meanings, many folks from the soil have been on a mission to set the record straight on how the lingo should be used.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This week on Rightnowish, we’re diving deep into the etymology of the term and clarifying how it’s best applied.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c!-- iframe plugin v.4.3 wordpress.org/plugins/iframe/ -->\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe loading=\"lazy\" frameborder=\"0\" height=\"200\" scrolling=\"no\" src=\"https://playlist.megaphone.fm/?e=KQINC7779286777\" width=\"100%\" class=\"iframe-class\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This piece was originally published as a written article in January 2022, you can find that \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13908052/food-doesnt-slap\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">by clicking here\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Rightnowish is an arts and culture podcast produced at KQED. Listen to it wherever you get your podcasts or click the play button at the top of this page and subscribe to the show on \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/721590300/rightnowish\">NPR One\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://open.spotify.com/show/7kEJuafTzTVan7B78ttz1I\">Spotify\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/rightnowish/id1482187648\">Apple Podcasts\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://tunein.com/podcasts/Arts--Culture-Podcasts/Rightnowish-p1258245/\">TuneIn\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/rightnowish\">Stitcher\u003c/a> or wherever you get your podcasts. \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A group of true San Franciscans is easy to spot in the Bay Area wild. Usually, they’re wearing some OG Frisco gear — like an all-gold satin 49ers jacket and Giants fitted brim — and have someone rolling a blunt in the passenger seat of a nearby Buick or Chevy, doors open and music blaring onto the street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was the vibe at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bigmafiburgers/\">Big Mafi Burger\u003c/a>’s recent pop-up at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/cookiessf/\">Cookies\u003c/a> in Hayward, where San Francisco rapper \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/cellski415/\">Cellski\u003c/a> came out to supply his culinary goods. Never one to pass up a Bay Area collaboration, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/berner415/?hl=en\">Berner\u003c/a>, the S.F. rapper who co-owns Cookies, created his own recipe for the event: The Berner Burger featured jalapeños and barbecue sauce grilled and served on your choice of burger (turkey, beef, vegan) and bun (sesame, brioche, wheat) — all “mashed” into a stack of one, two or three flattened patties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s not the first time \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13907726/e-40-goon-with-the-spoon-bay-area-rappers-food-entrepreneurs-hustle\">local rap artists have ventured into the food game\u003c/a>. Most recently, East Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/22NDWAYS/status/1590126226978791424\">ALLBLACK announced his “ALLBLACK Burger”\u003c/a> — featuring black buns, imported black cheddar, Hennessy and Patron sauce and candied brown sugar bacon — which sold out to fans at the rapper’s latest show. Still available at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ibsberkeley/?hl=en\">I.B.’s in Berkeley\u003c/a>, it goes to show how the rap game feeds the Bay in more ways than one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though I wasn’t able to catch ALLBLACK’s food debut, I came through to Cookies to show Big Mafi Burgers some love. The first bite was as saucy and flavorful as a ‘90s rap anthem. Here’s what the 415’s “Mr. Predicter” had to say about his love of music and food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13922640\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6274-scaled.jpg\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13922640\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6274-800x533.jpg\" alt='the rapper, Cellski, stands in front of a sign on the street that says \"Big Mafi Burgers\"' width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6274-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6274-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6274-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6274-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6274-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6274-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6274-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">SF rapper Cellski at Cookies for his Big Mafi Burger pop-up in Hayward. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ALAN CHAZARO:\u003c/strong> Tell us about Big Mafi Burger. When did you open and what’s on your menu?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CELLSKI:\u003c/strong> We opened in October, but it’s an idea I came up with years ago. The food industry is real big right now so I decided to put my burger to the test. I’m using my grandmother’s recipe and wanted the world to taste that. She used to make the best muthafuckin’ burgers, rest in peace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We use up to six spices — our beef recipe uses five and the turkey burger has extra seasoning. Our style is the mash burger. Everyone is doing the smash burger now, but we don’t smash it, we mash it. That’s our signature. I went with the mash style because of the sear and crust on the meat. When you mash it like that, you gotta turn it so [that] it spreads out and it cooks all the way down and then you get that crispy outer layer. Once you flip it and add that cheese? It all just melts in your mouth (laughs).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our most popular item is The Big Mafi Burger, which has chopped onions and green bell peppers mixed in with the meat patty to bring out more flavor. That’s a hood burger from the projects that we used to do — like a seasoned meatloaf. I also use my secret sauce for that. I learned how to make sauce from Beep’s, my favorite burger spot in the neighborhood. It’s in Lakeview, where I grew up. A friend taught me how to make [the sauce] when she worked there back in the day. I added my own little whoop to it, made it my own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lakeview seems to produce a lot of good cooks — that’s also where a founding member of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916044/sucka-free-soul-the-vegan-hood-chefs-honor-southern-heritage-with-a-frisco-twist\">The Vegan Hood Chefs\u003c/a> is from.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re like little sisters to me. I spoke with them [about starting Big Mafi Burgers]. Anything I do, I study it before I jump in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You have an album playfully titled \u003ca href=\"https://open.spotify.com/album/25MKCvouaBw8nNnBKcUyoJ\">\u003cb>\u003ci>Canadian Bacon & Hashbrowns\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/a>. When did you get involved in food-making? What’s your connection to it?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That all comes from my grandmother’s kitchen. Her and my mom cooked the best food in my life, and I learned from them both. My grandma’s tacos didn’t taste like nobody else’s. Her burgers. Her soul food. It was just different. I would sit in the kitchen with her when I could and learn her recipes. I knew she wouldn’t always be around so I wrote it down. I tried it. I perfected it. I even used to cook for her later in life. If you \u003cem>know me \u003c/em>know me, you know I can really get down in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eZGFh-_ZHg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You’ve had a long career in rap. How did you get started and what’s been your experience making music in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I started rapping back in the 90s. I’ve been around rap music all my life. My uncle was a drummer — his band practiced in my grandma’s garage and I was always around it. He gave me a drum machine when I was a kid and I just got into music and producing. I’ve done lots of projects with hella artists in the Bay. I’ve been in this game for 30 years. I put my first record out in 1995 [Mr. Predicter]. I was about 18 years old.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I grew up under \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916721/sucka-free-history-with-dregs-one\">Cougnut, the greatest Frisco rapper ever\u003c/a>. He was young but I watched him do it. He put me on my first tour. Whenever he performed he let me come out and do my songs. That’s my big bro. Rest his soul. His mom and my mom was real close, even before rapping. It made sense when he made it big that I would come up with him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Frisco Kid was another dude from my neighborhood, too. They was both my influences. Also, shout out Too $hort. Huey MC. The Miller and Budweiser — it used to be them two dudes battling back in the day. That’s real Frisco history right there. That’s some 1987 shit (laughs).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why is supporting other locally-owned businesses — like Mistah Fab’s Dope Era Clothing and Berner’s Cookies — important to you?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We got a small community of Bay Area artists and influencers; we all try to stick together and push each other. It’s very important, even when there’s separation behind the scenes — neighborhood politics, shit like that. But I don’t deal with that, I’m older now. As far as the community of us out here, it’s beautiful. I’m just trying to boost people’s spirits up. That’s what I’m here for. I’m the big bro. I’ve been around Bern and Fab since the beginning of they shit. Bern and I started our brands around the same time. That’s my people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>There has been a wave of Bay Area rappers going into the food and beverage industry. Why do you think that is?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you get older, things change. Rap is cool, but I’ve been doing it 30 years. I got to build businesses outside of that. My fans can come to this now. As a whole rap community, we get fans from each other, and that brings more awareness to what we’re all doing. You get older, you know. I’m in my 40s. We got our core fanbases but those checks ain’t what they used to be for me. It’s just different. I started a streetwear clothing line 10 years ago, \u003ca href=\"https://www.cbcbrand.com/shop-1?page=2\">Chemical Baby\u003c/a>. I also got an equity cannabis license with \u003ca href=\"https://www.2tookfarms.com/\">2Took Farms\u003c/a> and we distribute with Cookies. I’m juggling a few businesses, bro.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13922642\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13922642\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6208-800x533.jpg\" alt='a cook \"mashes\" a burger patty by flattening it with an iron press on the grill' width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6208-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6208-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6208-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6208-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6208-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6208-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6208-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A cook at Big Mafi Burger “mashes” two beef patties on the grill. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What’s next for Big Mafi Burgers?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re doing pop-ups right now but we’re working on getting a ghost kitchen in SoMa next year. We’ll be doing takeout from that location, and we’ll announce that at the start of 2023. Hopefully we can get us a brick-and-mortar one day. That’s our goal. But for now I’m also working on a deli, Celly’s Deli, and a soul food kitchen, Eassie Mae’s soul food, which are all my grandmother’s recipes. We’ll be running it all out of the same kitchen. People can come through and pick up, or get delivery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re doing a pop-up with Vegan Mob in a few weeks with an all-vegan menu. We’re also doing First Fridays at Dope Era again. We sold out the first time. I’ll also be selling burgers in the 49ers parking lot. I’m performing at the game this Sunday [11/27], so they told me to pull up with the burgers. We do private parties and events, too. We’ll be off during the holidays but we’ll be back in January and then get into the new kitchen. Once we get in there we’ll be on a roll, baby.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bigmafiburgers/\">\u003ci>Big Mafi Burgers\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is currently serving at pop-up events around the Bay. They will appear next at the Byxbee Park toy drive (2375 Embarcadero Rd, Palo Alto) on Dec. 16 from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A group of true San Franciscans is easy to spot in the Bay Area wild. Usually, they’re wearing some OG Frisco gear — like an all-gold satin 49ers jacket and Giants fitted brim — and have someone rolling a blunt in the passenger seat of a nearby Buick or Chevy, doors open and music blaring onto the street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was the vibe at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bigmafiburgers/\">Big Mafi Burger\u003c/a>’s recent pop-up at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/cookiessf/\">Cookies\u003c/a> in Hayward, where San Francisco rapper \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/cellski415/\">Cellski\u003c/a> came out to supply his culinary goods. Never one to pass up a Bay Area collaboration, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/berner415/?hl=en\">Berner\u003c/a>, the S.F. rapper who co-owns Cookies, created his own recipe for the event: The Berner Burger featured jalapeños and barbecue sauce grilled and served on your choice of burger (turkey, beef, vegan) and bun (sesame, brioche, wheat) — all “mashed” into a stack of one, two or three flattened patties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s not the first time \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13907726/e-40-goon-with-the-spoon-bay-area-rappers-food-entrepreneurs-hustle\">local rap artists have ventured into the food game\u003c/a>. Most recently, East Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/22NDWAYS/status/1590126226978791424\">ALLBLACK announced his “ALLBLACK Burger”\u003c/a> — featuring black buns, imported black cheddar, Hennessy and Patron sauce and candied brown sugar bacon — which sold out to fans at the rapper’s latest show. Still available at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ibsberkeley/?hl=en\">I.B.’s in Berkeley\u003c/a>, it goes to show how the rap game feeds the Bay in more ways than one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though I wasn’t able to catch ALLBLACK’s food debut, I came through to Cookies to show Big Mafi Burgers some love. The first bite was as saucy and flavorful as a ‘90s rap anthem. Here’s what the 415’s “Mr. Predicter” had to say about his love of music and food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13922640\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6274-scaled.jpg\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13922640\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6274-800x533.jpg\" alt='the rapper, Cellski, stands in front of a sign on the street that says \"Big Mafi Burgers\"' width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6274-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6274-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6274-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6274-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6274-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6274-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6274-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">SF rapper Cellski at Cookies for his Big Mafi Burger pop-up in Hayward. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ALAN CHAZARO:\u003c/strong> Tell us about Big Mafi Burger. When did you open and what’s on your menu?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CELLSKI:\u003c/strong> We opened in October, but it’s an idea I came up with years ago. The food industry is real big right now so I decided to put my burger to the test. I’m using my grandmother’s recipe and wanted the world to taste that. She used to make the best muthafuckin’ burgers, rest in peace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We use up to six spices — our beef recipe uses five and the turkey burger has extra seasoning. Our style is the mash burger. Everyone is doing the smash burger now, but we don’t smash it, we mash it. That’s our signature. I went with the mash style because of the sear and crust on the meat. When you mash it like that, you gotta turn it so [that] it spreads out and it cooks all the way down and then you get that crispy outer layer. Once you flip it and add that cheese? It all just melts in your mouth (laughs).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our most popular item is The Big Mafi Burger, which has chopped onions and green bell peppers mixed in with the meat patty to bring out more flavor. That’s a hood burger from the projects that we used to do — like a seasoned meatloaf. I also use my secret sauce for that. I learned how to make sauce from Beep’s, my favorite burger spot in the neighborhood. It’s in Lakeview, where I grew up. A friend taught me how to make [the sauce] when she worked there back in the day. I added my own little whoop to it, made it my own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lakeview seems to produce a lot of good cooks — that’s also where a founding member of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916044/sucka-free-soul-the-vegan-hood-chefs-honor-southern-heritage-with-a-frisco-twist\">The Vegan Hood Chefs\u003c/a> is from.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re like little sisters to me. I spoke with them [about starting Big Mafi Burgers]. Anything I do, I study it before I jump in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You have an album playfully titled \u003ca href=\"https://open.spotify.com/album/25MKCvouaBw8nNnBKcUyoJ\">\u003cb>\u003ci>Canadian Bacon & Hashbrowns\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/a>. When did you get involved in food-making? What’s your connection to it?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That all comes from my grandmother’s kitchen. Her and my mom cooked the best food in my life, and I learned from them both. My grandma’s tacos didn’t taste like nobody else’s. Her burgers. Her soul food. It was just different. I would sit in the kitchen with her when I could and learn her recipes. I knew she wouldn’t always be around so I wrote it down. I tried it. I perfected it. I even used to cook for her later in life. If you \u003cem>know me \u003c/em>know me, you know I can really get down in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/7eZGFh-_ZHg'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/7eZGFh-_ZHg'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You’ve had a long career in rap. How did you get started and what’s been your experience making music in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I started rapping back in the 90s. I’ve been around rap music all my life. My uncle was a drummer — his band practiced in my grandma’s garage and I was always around it. He gave me a drum machine when I was a kid and I just got into music and producing. I’ve done lots of projects with hella artists in the Bay. I’ve been in this game for 30 years. I put my first record out in 1995 [Mr. Predicter]. I was about 18 years old.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I grew up under \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916721/sucka-free-history-with-dregs-one\">Cougnut, the greatest Frisco rapper ever\u003c/a>. He was young but I watched him do it. He put me on my first tour. Whenever he performed he let me come out and do my songs. That’s my big bro. Rest his soul. His mom and my mom was real close, even before rapping. It made sense when he made it big that I would come up with him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Frisco Kid was another dude from my neighborhood, too. They was both my influences. Also, shout out Too $hort. Huey MC. The Miller and Budweiser — it used to be them two dudes battling back in the day. That’s real Frisco history right there. That’s some 1987 shit (laughs).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why is supporting other locally-owned businesses — like Mistah Fab’s Dope Era Clothing and Berner’s Cookies — important to you?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We got a small community of Bay Area artists and influencers; we all try to stick together and push each other. It’s very important, even when there’s separation behind the scenes — neighborhood politics, shit like that. But I don’t deal with that, I’m older now. As far as the community of us out here, it’s beautiful. I’m just trying to boost people’s spirits up. That’s what I’m here for. I’m the big bro. I’ve been around Bern and Fab since the beginning of they shit. Bern and I started our brands around the same time. That’s my people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>There has been a wave of Bay Area rappers going into the food and beverage industry. Why do you think that is?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you get older, things change. Rap is cool, but I’ve been doing it 30 years. I got to build businesses outside of that. My fans can come to this now. As a whole rap community, we get fans from each other, and that brings more awareness to what we’re all doing. You get older, you know. I’m in my 40s. We got our core fanbases but those checks ain’t what they used to be for me. It’s just different. I started a streetwear clothing line 10 years ago, \u003ca href=\"https://www.cbcbrand.com/shop-1?page=2\">Chemical Baby\u003c/a>. I also got an equity cannabis license with \u003ca href=\"https://www.2tookfarms.com/\">2Took Farms\u003c/a> and we distribute with Cookies. I’m juggling a few businesses, bro.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13922642\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13922642\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6208-800x533.jpg\" alt='a cook \"mashes\" a burger patty by flattening it with an iron press on the grill' width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6208-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6208-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6208-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6208-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6208-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6208-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/IMG_6208-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A cook at Big Mafi Burger “mashes” two beef patties on the grill. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What’s next for Big Mafi Burgers?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re doing pop-ups right now but we’re working on getting a ghost kitchen in SoMa next year. We’ll be doing takeout from that location, and we’ll announce that at the start of 2023. Hopefully we can get us a brick-and-mortar one day. That’s our goal. But for now I’m also working on a deli, Celly’s Deli, and a soul food kitchen, Eassie Mae’s soul food, which are all my grandmother’s recipes. We’ll be running it all out of the same kitchen. People can come through and pick up, or get delivery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re doing a pop-up with Vegan Mob in a few weeks with an all-vegan menu. We’re also doing First Fridays at Dope Era again. We sold out the first time. I’ll also be selling burgers in the 49ers parking lot. I’m performing at the game this Sunday [11/27], so they told me to pull up with the burgers. We do private parties and events, too. We’ll be off during the holidays but we’ll be back in January and then get into the new kitchen. Once we get in there we’ll be on a roll, baby.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bigmafiburgers/\">\u003ci>Big Mafi Burgers\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is currently serving at pop-up events around the Bay. They will appear next at the Byxbee Park toy drive (2375 Embarcadero Rd, Palo Alto) on Dec. 16 from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Chef Avery Zeus is a whiz at combining flavors. They use that same energy when they bring queer people of color together at the monthly “Taco Tuesgay” pop-up event in Oakland. Zeus’ company, \u003ca href=\"https://conceptkitchen.space/home\">Concept Kitchen,\u003c/a> plans the catering for the event, but their main business is making sure that other QTIBIPOC-led food start-ups have the resources to succeed in the hospitality industry through kitchen access, booking services, and equipment for catering and street vending.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rightnowish’s Corey Antonio Rose spoke to Chef Zeus about the importance of gathering space, even when it’s temporary, and why you shouldn’t rush the process when it comes to cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c!-- iframe plugin v.4.3 wordpress.org/plugins/iframe/ -->\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe loading=\"lazy\" frameborder=\"0\" height=\"200\" scrolling=\"no\" src=\"https://playlist.megaphone.fm?e=KQINC7615240668&light=true\" width=\"100%\" class=\"iframe-class\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Read the \u003ca href=\"https://bit.ly/3BlM4ci\">transcript\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Below are lightly edited excerpts of Corey’s conversation with Chef Avery Zeus:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>COREY ANTONIO: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In what ways do you think food brings people together?\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>AVERY: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For me personally, I’d just like to create an experience like, yeah, I want people to like eat my food and stuff, but I don’t necessarily care if people are coming out for the food necessarily.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I just want like a community comfortable space where everyone can like kick it, and like kick back, you know?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>COREY ANTONIO:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I see and so you see the food as just part of that bigger tapestry.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>AVERY: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I feel like the food is a way to invite people in\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s why we did the open mic and stuff, for instance, you know what I’m saying? If I’m ever going to do pop-ups or anything like that, I just want people to come for the community.\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>COREY ANTONIO: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There are not a lot of black owned, black queer-owned spaces where we can just go any day, any time and get our life. And so I’m wondering,\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">what is the importance of a temporary space, even if it is just that, temporary?\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>AVERY: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We don’t have very – we actually, no, we don’t have space. We don’t have black queer spaces at all and I feel like it’s important because it’s like nothing like partying with your people, you know what I’m saying? It’s like a total different experience. I don’t care, I’m gonna do my thing. But it’s not the case for a lot of people, especially like us. I feel like it’s important that we have these spaces that are centered around us. I’ve even had conversations with people, they can’t even dance how they want to dance because they like, oh, these people can’t keep up or are these people going to judge me for doing this, that and other? We deserve to have these spaces to where we can just like, really like kiki and kick back. Most of the US is going through gentrification and we’re losing a lot of the culture in these spaces. So it’s very important, if we can, to continue to curate these events where it’s centered around Black people, POC. We need these spaces because we’re losing them. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>COREY ANTONIO: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This is where the culture is created. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>AVERY: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s like we need to keep the culture, you know? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>COREY ANTONIO\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">: LGBTQ-owned business are only a fraction of our economy, and transgender-owned businesses are an even smaller fraction of that fraction. As an independent chef, Avery understands the challenges for other Black and queer independent chefs: getting access to affordable kitchen spaces, tools, and other cooking gear. That led him to create Concept Kitchen: a ghost kitchen that provides all of those things.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>AVERY\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">: It’s not accessible for people trying to get into business, you know, or like trying to run their business. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">You don’t want to spend all your money like pantry to prep in a kitchen because then you’re not really going to make anything right. And then also just equipment, like kitchen equipment is like extremely expensive. You know, like one little pan can cost you like $100, you know? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>AVERY\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">: I feel like opportunity is not available to everyone. I’ve been blessed in the sense of getting opportunity just because like I feel like I have a really good community around me and stuff. And once people try out food like they’ll recommend it to someone else, which is awesome. Thank you so much. Like but that’s how that’s how it should be, you know.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So it’s like but the thing is, I also work a full time job. So sometimes I can’t take these opportunities and I want to give them to my homies or like give them to people who are looking for these opportunities. So that’s really what motivated me to create Concept Kitchen is like, yo, I want to provide this access to people like, you know, kitchen space. I want to give people opportunity. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Rightnowish is an arts and culture podcast produced at KQED. Listen to it wherever you get your podcasts or click the play button at the top of this page and subscribe to the show on \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/721590300/rightnowish\">NPR One\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://open.spotify.com/show/7kEJuafTzTVan7B78ttz1I\">Spotify\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/rightnowish/id1482187648\">Apple Podcasts\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://tunein.com/podcasts/Arts--Culture-Podcasts/Rightnowish-p1258245/\">TuneIn\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/rightnowish\">Stitcher\u003c/a> or wherever you get your podcasts. \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]=\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Chef Avery Zeus is a whiz at combining flavors. They use that same energy when they bring queer people of color together at the monthly “Taco Tuesgay” pop-up event in Oakland. Zeus’ company, \u003ca href=\"https://conceptkitchen.space/home\">Concept Kitchen,\u003c/a> plans the catering for the event, but their main business is making sure that other QTIBIPOC-led food start-ups have the resources to succeed in the hospitality industry through kitchen access, booking services, and equipment for catering and street vending.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rightnowish’s Corey Antonio Rose spoke to Chef Zeus about the importance of gathering space, even when it’s temporary, and why you shouldn’t rush the process when it comes to cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c!-- iframe plugin v.4.3 wordpress.org/plugins/iframe/ -->\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe loading=\"lazy\" frameborder=\"0\" height=\"200\" scrolling=\"no\" src=\"https://playlist.megaphone.fm?e=KQINC7615240668&light=true\" width=\"100%\" class=\"iframe-class\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Read the \u003ca href=\"https://bit.ly/3BlM4ci\">transcript\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Below are lightly edited excerpts of Corey’s conversation with Chef Avery Zeus:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>COREY ANTONIO: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In what ways do you think food brings people together?\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>AVERY: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For me personally, I’d just like to create an experience like, yeah, I want people to like eat my food and stuff, but I don’t necessarily care if people are coming out for the food necessarily.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I just want like a community comfortable space where everyone can like kick it, and like kick back, you know?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>COREY ANTONIO:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I see and so you see the food as just part of that bigger tapestry.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>AVERY: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I feel like the food is a way to invite people in\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s why we did the open mic and stuff, for instance, you know what I’m saying? If I’m ever going to do pop-ups or anything like that, I just want people to come for the community.\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>COREY ANTONIO: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There are not a lot of black owned, black queer-owned spaces where we can just go any day, any time and get our life. And so I’m wondering,\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">what is the importance of a temporary space, even if it is just that, temporary?\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>AVERY: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We don’t have very – we actually, no, we don’t have space. We don’t have black queer spaces at all and I feel like it’s important because it’s like nothing like partying with your people, you know what I’m saying? It’s like a total different experience. I don’t care, I’m gonna do my thing. But it’s not the case for a lot of people, especially like us. I feel like it’s important that we have these spaces that are centered around us. I’ve even had conversations with people, they can’t even dance how they want to dance because they like, oh, these people can’t keep up or are these people going to judge me for doing this, that and other? We deserve to have these spaces to where we can just like, really like kiki and kick back. Most of the US is going through gentrification and we’re losing a lot of the culture in these spaces. So it’s very important, if we can, to continue to curate these events where it’s centered around Black people, POC. We need these spaces because we’re losing them. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>COREY ANTONIO: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This is where the culture is created. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>AVERY: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s like we need to keep the culture, you know? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>COREY ANTONIO\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">: LGBTQ-owned business are only a fraction of our economy, and transgender-owned businesses are an even smaller fraction of that fraction. As an independent chef, Avery understands the challenges for other Black and queer independent chefs: getting access to affordable kitchen spaces, tools, and other cooking gear. That led him to create Concept Kitchen: a ghost kitchen that provides all of those things.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>AVERY\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">: It’s not accessible for people trying to get into business, you know, or like trying to run their business. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">You don’t want to spend all your money like pantry to prep in a kitchen because then you’re not really going to make anything right. And then also just equipment, like kitchen equipment is like extremely expensive. You know, like one little pan can cost you like $100, you know? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>AVERY\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">: I feel like opportunity is not available to everyone. I’ve been blessed in the sense of getting opportunity just because like I feel like I have a really good community around me and stuff. And once people try out food like they’ll recommend it to someone else, which is awesome. Thank you so much. Like but that’s how that’s how it should be, you know.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So it’s like but the thing is, I also work a full time job. So sometimes I can’t take these opportunities and I want to give them to my homies or like give them to people who are looking for these opportunities. So that’s really what motivated me to create Concept Kitchen is like, yo, I want to provide this access to people like, you know, kitchen space. I want to give people opportunity. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Rightnowish is an arts and culture podcast produced at KQED. Listen to it wherever you get your podcasts or click the play button at the top of this page and subscribe to the show on \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/721590300/rightnowish\">NPR One\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://open.spotify.com/show/7kEJuafTzTVan7B78ttz1I\">Spotify\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/rightnowish/id1482187648\">Apple Podcasts\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://tunein.com/podcasts/Arts--Culture-Podcasts/Rightnowish-p1258245/\">TuneIn\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/rightnowish\">Stitcher\u003c/a> or wherever you get your podcasts. \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"title": "New Flavors, New Beginnings at La Cocina's Holiday Market",
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"content": "\u003cp>Tiffany Carter’s journey started on the literal streets of San Francisco. Having grown up in Bayview, she began slinging gumbo in jars out of the trunk of her Honda Civic when she was in her early 20s. From Lakeview to Fillmore, she’d serve up customers who ordered by calling, texting, or finding her on Facebook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since joining the Mission-based, woman-owned incubator La Cocina in 2018, the 40-year-old chef and mother has been able to expand her soul-food business, \u003ca href=\"https://bougcali.com/\">Boug Cali\u003c/a>. After initially operating out of her mom’s tiny, outdated Bayview kitchen, Carter now serves her dishes at Chase Center. She also has a stall at La Cocina’s Municipal Market, the first food hall in the country led by mothers, and even employs her own daughter, a 22-year-old graduate of San Jose State University, in a part-time role.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s the sort of hustle that Carter’s proud of as a born-and-raised San Franciscan—and one that embodies La Cocina’s larger mission. “I hope that I am a symbol of hope for other mothers, entrepreneurs, Black women, and minorities,” she tells KQED.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13922401\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/LaCocinaHolidayOverview-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13922401\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/LaCocinaHolidayOverview-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/LaCocinaHolidayOverview-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/LaCocinaHolidayOverview-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/LaCocinaHolidayOverview-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/LaCocinaHolidayOverview-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/LaCocinaHolidayOverview.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A scene from 2021’s holiday market at La Cocina’s Municipal Marketplace in San Francisco. \u003ccite>(Erin Ng)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That dedication will be on full display at La Cocina’s Holiday Market fundraiser on Saturday, Dec. 10, featuring Boug Cali alongside six other businesses. A trademark variety of authentic foods, drinks, cultures and crafts will be served at La Cocina’s indoor space in the Tenderloin; highlights include Los Cilantro’s pozole rojo—the traditional Mexican red chile broth with pork and hominy—and Kayma’s coca, an Algerian puff pastry filled with simmered ground beef, onions, and tomatoes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We really want highly motivated individuals with a vibrant spirit and a food product that isn’t only unique, but an extension of themselves,” says La Cocina’s Michelle Magat, about the businesses they work to support. “Tiffany is that. [Her business is] a reflection of her life.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside link1='https://youtu.be/YKboUhMQwC4,Watch: Exploring the First Women-Led Food Hall in the Country' hero='https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/TiffanyCarter.Cecilia.jpg' heroURL='https://youtu.be/YKboUhMQwC4']At this year’s Holiday Market, Carter will serve her signature plates of West Coast-influenced soul food—such as California-style crispy tacos (Creole-seasoned ground beef served on a fried corn tortilla with red beans as a side), chicken and andouille sausage gumbo (made from her Alabama family’s recipe, with the option of blackened Bay lobster), and the Bonfire wrap (a choice of jerk chicken, crispy shrimp or crispy avocado with Baja sauce, pico de gallo, jalapeños, Jack cheese and mixed greens rolled into a flour tortilla).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition, the Market will welcome an array of holiday craft vendors, as well as Fluid Cooperative Cafe—a trans-owned and staffed coffee and pastry business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our organization is just a bridge for systemically undervalued and under resourced communities to reach their full power,” Magat says. “It’s a big risk to [start a new business in San Francisco]. It really is a journey. We’re in communication with them since day one. That’s how the world should work.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>La Cocina’s Holiday Market takes place on Saturday, Dec. 10, from 11 a.m.–4 p.m. at the Municipal Marketplace in San Francisco. Admission is free; donations encouraged. \u003ca href=\"https://lacocinasf.org/holidaymarket22\">Details here\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Tiffany Carter’s journey started on the literal streets of San Francisco. Having grown up in Bayview, she began slinging gumbo in jars out of the trunk of her Honda Civic when she was in her early 20s. From Lakeview to Fillmore, she’d serve up customers who ordered by calling, texting, or finding her on Facebook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since joining the Mission-based, woman-owned incubator La Cocina in 2018, the 40-year-old chef and mother has been able to expand her soul-food business, \u003ca href=\"https://bougcali.com/\">Boug Cali\u003c/a>. After initially operating out of her mom’s tiny, outdated Bayview kitchen, Carter now serves her dishes at Chase Center. She also has a stall at La Cocina’s Municipal Market, the first food hall in the country led by mothers, and even employs her own daughter, a 22-year-old graduate of San Jose State University, in a part-time role.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s the sort of hustle that Carter’s proud of as a born-and-raised San Franciscan—and one that embodies La Cocina’s larger mission. “I hope that I am a symbol of hope for other mothers, entrepreneurs, Black women, and minorities,” she tells KQED.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13922401\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/LaCocinaHolidayOverview-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13922401\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/LaCocinaHolidayOverview-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/LaCocinaHolidayOverview-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/LaCocinaHolidayOverview-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/LaCocinaHolidayOverview-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/LaCocinaHolidayOverview-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/12/LaCocinaHolidayOverview.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A scene from 2021’s holiday market at La Cocina’s Municipal Marketplace in San Francisco. \u003ccite>(Erin Ng)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That dedication will be on full display at La Cocina’s Holiday Market fundraiser on Saturday, Dec. 10, featuring Boug Cali alongside six other businesses. A trademark variety of authentic foods, drinks, cultures and crafts will be served at La Cocina’s indoor space in the Tenderloin; highlights include Los Cilantro’s pozole rojo—the traditional Mexican red chile broth with pork and hominy—and Kayma’s coca, an Algerian puff pastry filled with simmered ground beef, onions, and tomatoes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We really want highly motivated individuals with a vibrant spirit and a food product that isn’t only unique, but an extension of themselves,” says La Cocina’s Michelle Magat, about the businesses they work to support. “Tiffany is that. [Her business is] a reflection of her life.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>At this year’s Holiday Market, Carter will serve her signature plates of West Coast-influenced soul food—such as California-style crispy tacos (Creole-seasoned ground beef served on a fried corn tortilla with red beans as a side), chicken and andouille sausage gumbo (made from her Alabama family’s recipe, with the option of blackened Bay lobster), and the Bonfire wrap (a choice of jerk chicken, crispy shrimp or crispy avocado with Baja sauce, pico de gallo, jalapeños, Jack cheese and mixed greens rolled into a flour tortilla).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition, the Market will welcome an array of holiday craft vendors, as well as Fluid Cooperative Cafe—a trans-owned and staffed coffee and pastry business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our organization is just a bridge for systemically undervalued and under resourced communities to reach their full power,” Magat says. “It’s a big risk to [start a new business in San Francisco]. It really is a journey. We’re in communication with them since day one. That’s how the world should work.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>La Cocina’s Holiday Market takes place on Saturday, Dec. 10, from 11 a.m.–4 p.m. at the Municipal Marketplace in San Francisco. Admission is free; donations encouraged. \u003ca href=\"https://lacocinasf.org/holidaymarket22\">Details here\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "The Best Dishes I Ate in 2022",
"headTitle": "The Best Dishes I Ate in 2022 | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>I used to think that deliciousness was something that could be measured in absolute terms — that, even with elements of subjectivity, a dish’s taste came down to some combination of the skill of the cook and the quality of the ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lately, though, I’ve been thinking about how much external circumstance is tied to many of my fondest food memories. Sometimes the food tasted better because I’d eaten it standing up — the only proper way to eat street food, after all. Sometimes deliciousness snuck up on me in an unusual, unexpected place. Oftentimes a loved one or dear friend was involved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year, too, as I thought about the best dishes I ate, it really felt like I was compiling a list of my most memorable experiences of the year — not just the tastiest bowl of stew, but the one I ate in the park with my bare hands. Not just a good sandwich, but one that I devoured in quiet contemplation on one of the rare weekends I had to spend on my own, doing whatever I pleased.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With that caveat, here are the 10 best things I ate in 2022, presented in roughly chronological order. I think you’ll find them pretty delicious too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921974\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921974\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dgrobak_bakso.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a bowl of noodle soup with a bone-in short rib.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dgrobak_bakso.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dgrobak_bakso-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dgrobak_bakso-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dgrobak_bakso-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dgrobak_bakso-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dgrobak_bakso-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">D’Grobak specializes in the Indonesian noodle soup known as bakso. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>1. Bakso at D’Grobak\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>865 Marina Bay Pkwy. #865, Richmond\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the pandemic’s silver linings has been the rise of the meal kit — a dish’s component parts packaged into neat compartments for you to assemble and heat up at home, avoiding the usual limp-tortilla and soggy-noodle pitfalls of takeout. In the case of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13908798/bakso-indonesian-street-food-noodle-soup-dgrobak-richmond\">the Indonesian pop-up D’Grobak’s\u003c/a> bakso noodle soup, it’s like a magic trick transporting you to a street stall in Indonesia: the rich smell of beef fat and white pepper that wafts up as you warm the broth. The crisp, charred exterior of the bone-in short rib you’ve briefly reheated in the oven. The bounce of the signature bakso meatballs. The jiggle of soft tendon. What else is there to say? The dish tastes like home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921973\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/duc-huong_dac-biet-1020x1360.jpg\" alt=\"A banh mi sandwich held up with a drive-in theater movie screen in the background.\" width=\"640\" height=\"853\" class=\"size-large wp-image-13921973\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/duc-huong_dac-biet-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/duc-huong_dac-biet-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/duc-huong_dac-biet-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/duc-huong_dac-biet-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/duc-huong_dac-biet-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/duc-huong_dac-biet-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/duc-huong_dac-biet.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The ideal movie snack, courtesy of Duc Huong. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>2. Banh mi dac biet at Duc Huong\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>2345 McKee Road, San Jose\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes you want cloth napkins, “still or sparkling” and a dozen courses of beautifully composed plates with complicated garnishes. Other times (maybe even \u003ci>most \u003c/i>of the time), you just want to pull up to the drive-in theater and eat banh mi on the hood of your car while watching the latest Marvel movie with your kids. In that case, you might as well head to Duc Huong, which almost certainly deserves to be in the conversation for best banh mi in San Jose — and, therefore, the best banh mi in the Bay — even if it isn’t your personal pick. The local mini-chain has five locations, each with a briskly efficient line out the door and the kind of fresh-baked baguettes and masterfully constructed sandwiches that are well worth the wait.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love how Duc Huong offers a small, half-size option that allows an indecisive banh mi orderer to try two or three different sandwiches. When in doubt, though, go for the dac biet, with its hefty slices of headcheese and other cold cuts, and the precise balance it strikes between its bright pickled veggies and earthy swipe of pâté. For me, it was more satisfying, even, than a big tub of buttered popcorn: The trailers had barely ended, and I’d already finished every last bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13915379\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13915379\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/038_KQEDArts_MongolianKhorkhog_05092022.jpg\" alt=\"A man lifts up the lid of a pressure cooker to reveal lamb and cabbage inside.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/038_KQEDArts_MongolianKhorkhog_05092022.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/038_KQEDArts_MongolianKhorkhog_05092022-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/038_KQEDArts_MongolianKhorkhog_05092022-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/038_KQEDArts_MongolianKhorkhog_05092022-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/038_KQEDArts_MongolianKhorkhog_05092022-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/038_KQEDArts_MongolianKhorkhog_05092022-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Khorkhog, a Mongolian dish of pressure-cooked lamb, served at Wildcat Canyon Regional Park in Richmond. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>3. Khorkhog at Dumpling House Mongolian Cuisine\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>2221 San Pablo Ave. #6, Richmond\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’d wanted to try the dish that had been described to me as “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13915312/real-mongolian-barbecue-khorkhog-richmond\">the real Mongolian barbecue\u003c/a>” for several years. Then, in June, the kind Mongolian family that runs Richmond’s Dumpling House brought me to a park in the East Bay hills and showed me how they make the slow-cooked whole lamb dish known as khorkhog the traditional way — over a live fire, inside a heavy-duty, old-school pressure cooker that’s been sealed tight and filled with blistering hot rocks. We tore off hunks of meat and ate with our bare hands, scooping up pieces of carrot, cabbage and rutabaga that had soaked up the same savory lamb juices that were dripping down our chins. And while I cannot promise you the exact same experience, I can tell you that you can, in fact, order an indoor version of khorkhog at the restaurant. All you need to do is call a few hours ahead and bring at least three or four hungry carnivores with you to share the bounty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921972\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921972\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/rocky-island_oysters.jpg\" alt=\"A tray of oysters on ice.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/rocky-island_oysters.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/rocky-island_oysters-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/rocky-island_oysters-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/rocky-island_oysters-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/rocky-island_oysters-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/rocky-island_oysters-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rocky Island Oyster Co. puts the spotlight on East Coast oysters. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>4. East Coast oysters at Rocky Island Oyster Co.\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>1440 Harbour Way S., Richmond\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A freshly shucked Pacific oyster is a lovely thing. But when Rocky Island Oyster Co. \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13909648/rocky-island-oyster-bar-richmond-waterfront-view-lobster-roll\">opened in Richmond late last year\u003c/a>, it was with the express purpose of introducing Bay Area shellfish enthusiasts to a new love: the East Coast oyster. Specifically, oysters from the area near owner Danny Pirello’s hometown on the Massachusetts shoreline. And I must admit: It didn’t take more than a single slurp to turn me into a convert to the pleasures of these crisp, briny-sweet beauties (saltier and more substantial than, say, your typical Kumamoto), which I’d have happily made an entire meal of with no other addition than a lemon wedge and a little tub of mignonette. Of course, the waterfront outdoor seating area’s immaculate vibes and million-dollar view of Bay made everything taste even sweeter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921976\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921976\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/wahpepahs_three-sisters.jpg\" alt=\"A salad with cooked grains, squash, nuts, heirloom corn and more.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/wahpepahs_three-sisters.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/wahpepahs_three-sisters-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/wahpepahs_three-sisters-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/wahpepahs_three-sisters-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/wahpepahs_three-sisters-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/wahpepahs_three-sisters-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A salad featuring the “three sisters” (corn, squash and beans) that are traditional in several Native food cultures. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>5a. Three Sisters’ Salad at Wahpepah’s Kitchen\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>3301 E. 12th St. #133, Oakland\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have said on the record many times that I do not, as a general rule, particularly care for salads. Maybe it’s more accurate to say I don’t like the kind of endlessly monotonous, Eurocentric salads made up of nothing but raw vegetables. Give me all the nuts, seeds and other assorted crunchy things! Mix in some cooked ingredients, fish sauce or fermented tea leaves, or big chunks of meat and cheese. The Three Sisters’ Salad at \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13903531/wahpepahs-kitchen-fruitvale-indigenous-restaurant\">Wahpepah’s Kitchen, a new indigenous-owned restaurant in Oakland’s Fruitvale neighborhood\u003c/a>, was the perfect antidote to my bland-salad doldrums. I loved all of the different textures from the variety of raw and cooked elements: the quinoa, amaranth, chopped nuts and, of course, the traditional “sisters” themselves (heirloom corn, beans and squash). And the dressing — a maple reduction mixed with chili oil — was such a memorable combination of sweet, spicy, smoky flavors that the only word that came to mind was one I almost never use to describe a salad: It was thrilling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921980\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921980\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/2207_salad.jpg\" alt=\"Takeout box filled with grain salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/2207_salad.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/2207_salad-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/2207_salad-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/2207_salad-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/2207_salad-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/2207_salad-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A salad that’s not just salad greens and other raw vegetables. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>5b. Market grain salad with harissa grilled chicken at 2207\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>2207 Macdonald Ave., Richmond\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No, no one has taken me hostage: I do in fact have (count ’em) \u003ci>two\u003c/i> salads in this top 10 list. This one’s an old favorite recently brought back into the rotation now that my neighborhood takeout lunch spot, 2207, has reopened — on a \u003ca href=\"https://twenty2zero7.square.site/?location=11eb70099aab40c6889eac1f6bbbd01e\">preorder-only basis\u003c/a> — after shutting down for the first two-plus years of the pandemic. The restaurant makes a fabulously beefy patty melt and some of my favorite fried chicken in the Bay, so it’s saying something that the one menu staple I keep coming back to is a \u003ci>market grain salad\u003c/i>. It comes loaded not just with your usual mixed greens, but also cooked grains, thick slabs of feta, chicken thigh meat with the impeccably crispy skin still attached and whatever gorgeous produce happens to be in season — pomegranate seeds and slices of persimmon, perhaps, or sweet corn and ripe stone fruit if you’re lucky enough to snag this during the summer months. The tahini-based dressing is a little bit sweet, a little bit spicy and, like everything else about this salad, \u003ci>just right\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921975\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921975\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/noodle-in-a-haystack_abura-soba.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of ramen with no soup, topped with a slice of wagyu beef.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/noodle-in-a-haystack_abura-soba.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/noodle-in-a-haystack_abura-soba-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/noodle-in-a-haystack_abura-soba-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/noodle-in-a-haystack_abura-soba-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/noodle-in-a-haystack_abura-soba-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/noodle-in-a-haystack_abura-soba-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hype-worthy noodles. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>6. Wagyu beef abura soba at Noodle in a Haystack\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>4601 Geary Blvd., San Francisco\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Noodle in a Haystack’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13898743/noodle-in-a-haystack-ramen-pop-up-sf-richmond\">legend preceded it\u003c/a>. From its roots as an underground supper club run out of its founders’ home kitchen, San Francisco’s most ambitious and eccentric ramen shop had acquired a reputation for serving \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/noodle-haystack-ramen-17458157.php\">the Bay Area’s best ramen\u003c/a> by a wide margin — and, perhaps, some of the best you can find outside of Japan — years before its tiny Inner Richmond storefront debuted earlier this spring. I am simply here to tell you that the place lives up to all of the hype, even if the $175 price tag (for a 10-plus course tasting menu) isn’t for everyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I could write separate, well-deserved entries about the deviled egg opener (supercharged with fish powder, fish roe and crispy chicken skin), the crab and tofu soup or the fried pork belly. But suffice it to say that the ramen dish they were serving on the night of my visit — a soupless version featuring thick, springy noodles coated in a rich sauce made with rendered wagyu beef fat — was so delicious that it left me completely speechless.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921982\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921982\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/marvins_chicken-fried-steak.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of chicken fried steak, toast and hash browns.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/marvins_chicken-fried-steak.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/marvins_chicken-fried-steak-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/marvins_chicken-fried-steak-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/marvins_chicken-fried-steak-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/marvins_chicken-fried-steak-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/marvins_chicken-fried-steak-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marvin’s is the North Bay’s short-order breakfast king. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>7. Chicken fried steak at Marvin’s Breakfast Club in Novato\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>1112 Grant Ave., Novato\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let us take a moment to praise the short-order breakfast cook, whose workmanlike ranks have probably brought as much pleasure to my life as any Michelin star–chasing chef. This was the year I discovered Marvin’s Breakfast Club, a Platonic ideal of the short-order breakfast genre in Marin County, with its dependably crispy hash browns and its classic roster of omelets and Benedicts, each item as steadfast as your most dependable old childhood friend. What I love best is going to Marvin’s as a solo diner on a lazy Sunday, sliding into a counter stool with a paperback and ordering the chicken fried steak. This is a monstrous, supremely comforting plate of food, piled high with crisp, battered steak, runny-yolked eggs, country gravy, hash browns and buttered toast. I’ve been known to (against all odds) finish the entire thing, cross the bridge back home to the East Bay and immediately curl up for a nice long nap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921979\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921979\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/good-to-eat_bbq.jpg\" alt=\"Small bowl of lu rou fan next to a plate of grilled chicken.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/good-to-eat_bbq.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/good-to-eat_bbq-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/good-to-eat_bbq-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/good-to-eat_bbq-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/good-to-eat_bbq-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/good-to-eat_bbq-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lu rou fan and Taiwanese-style grilled chicken were just two of the offerings at Good-to-Eat Dumplings’ Mid-Autumn Festival event. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>8. Taiwanese barbecue at Good-to-Eat Dumplings\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>1298 65th St., Emeryville\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Taiwan, Mid-Autumn Festival isn’t just an occasion to eat mooncakes; it has also become the unofficial national day of grilling, when folks young and old gather in riverside parks or \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13915306/bbq-in-the-bay-series-intro-multicultural-barbecue-bay-area\">crouch on the sidewalk over makeshift grill grates set over cement blocks or car tire rims\u003c/a>, gorging themselves on meat skewer after well-charred meat skewer. This year, newly opened Taiwanese hotspot Good-to-Eat Dumplings celebrated Mid-Autumn Festival by firing up the grill and bringing this tradition to its Emeryville back patio, serving a slew of oversized grilled chicken breasts, sweet Taiwanese-style sausages, corn on the cob slathered in Taiwanese barbecue sauce and big bowls of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897498/mama-liu-lu-rou-fan-taiwanese-food-comic\">lu rou fan\u003c/a> for good measure. Needless to say, all of the food was delicious — but beyond that, watching the long queue of diners waiting in line for Taiwanese barbecue in the restaurant’s little backyard, the smell of charcoal wafting in the air, I felt closer to my home country than I had at any other point of the pandemic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921978\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921978\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san-ho-won_galbi.jpg\" alt=\"Korean-style short ribs on a rack.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san-ho-won_galbi.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san-ho-won_galbi-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san-ho-won_galbi-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san-ho-won_galbi-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san-ho-won_galbi-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san-ho-won_galbi-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The galbi at San Ho Won is as tender as butter. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>9. Galbi and beef neck at San Ho Won\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>2170 Bryant St., San Francisco\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13907197']San Ho Won might be the most affordable among multiple-Michelin man Corey Lee’s fleet of San Francisco restaurants, but few diners would mistake it for an everyday kind of place. As a destination for celebrating that job promotion, or stimulus check, or unusually generous New Year’s red envelope? The \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13921461/san-ho-won-korean-lager-fort-point-beer-corey-lee-san-francisco\">charcoal barbecue spot\u003c/a> is pretty darn great — especially if grilled beef is your indulgence of choice. Here, even more than at your average Korean barbecue joint, each order of beef neck and thick, double-cut galbi is the product of literal sweat labor: The grill masters spend the whole night on their feet, toiling in the smoke in front of red-hot charcoal. The first time I ate at San Ho Won, it was to celebrate an unexpected windfall of my own — and so, every precisely cut, crisp-edged, impossibly tender piece of meat felt like the luckiest kind of gift.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921981\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921981\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og.jpg\" alt=\"A massive sandwich overflowing with pastrami and slaw.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The “OG.” \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>10. The ‘O.G.’ at Delirama\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>1746 Solano Ave., Berkeley\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best sandwich I ate in the Bay Area this year came on thick slices of fresh-baked rye bread griddled in enough butter to raise eyebrows. It was loaded with coleslaw (more mustardy than sweet), with Thousand Island dressing and gruyere cheese. And because I’d ordered the sandwich “husky,” with extra meat — since that’s the kind of sandwich eater I am — it came practically overflowing with Delirama’s claim to fame: house-made pastrami so flavorful, so lusciously fatty and crisp around the edges, that it set a new Bay Area standard for the deli classic \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13917120/delirama-pastrami-berkeley-opening-hella-hungry\">from the first day the restaurant opened\u003c/a>. This is a sandwich that commands your full attention — and requires short breaks to finish the whole thing. Let the record show: I was up to the task.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>I used to think that deliciousness was something that could be measured in absolute terms — that, even with elements of subjectivity, a dish’s taste came down to some combination of the skill of the cook and the quality of the ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lately, though, I’ve been thinking about how much external circumstance is tied to many of my fondest food memories. Sometimes the food tasted better because I’d eaten it standing up — the only proper way to eat street food, after all. Sometimes deliciousness snuck up on me in an unusual, unexpected place. Oftentimes a loved one or dear friend was involved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year, too, as I thought about the best dishes I ate, it really felt like I was compiling a list of my most memorable experiences of the year — not just the tastiest bowl of stew, but the one I ate in the park with my bare hands. Not just a good sandwich, but one that I devoured in quiet contemplation on one of the rare weekends I had to spend on my own, doing whatever I pleased.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With that caveat, here are the 10 best things I ate in 2022, presented in roughly chronological order. I think you’ll find them pretty delicious too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921974\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921974\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dgrobak_bakso.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a bowl of noodle soup with a bone-in short rib.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dgrobak_bakso.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dgrobak_bakso-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dgrobak_bakso-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dgrobak_bakso-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dgrobak_bakso-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dgrobak_bakso-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">D’Grobak specializes in the Indonesian noodle soup known as bakso. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>1. Bakso at D’Grobak\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>865 Marina Bay Pkwy. #865, Richmond\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the pandemic’s silver linings has been the rise of the meal kit — a dish’s component parts packaged into neat compartments for you to assemble and heat up at home, avoiding the usual limp-tortilla and soggy-noodle pitfalls of takeout. In the case of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13908798/bakso-indonesian-street-food-noodle-soup-dgrobak-richmond\">the Indonesian pop-up D’Grobak’s\u003c/a> bakso noodle soup, it’s like a magic trick transporting you to a street stall in Indonesia: the rich smell of beef fat and white pepper that wafts up as you warm the broth. The crisp, charred exterior of the bone-in short rib you’ve briefly reheated in the oven. The bounce of the signature bakso meatballs. The jiggle of soft tendon. What else is there to say? The dish tastes like home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921973\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/duc-huong_dac-biet-1020x1360.jpg\" alt=\"A banh mi sandwich held up with a drive-in theater movie screen in the background.\" width=\"640\" height=\"853\" class=\"size-large wp-image-13921973\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/duc-huong_dac-biet-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/duc-huong_dac-biet-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/duc-huong_dac-biet-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/duc-huong_dac-biet-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/duc-huong_dac-biet-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/duc-huong_dac-biet-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/duc-huong_dac-biet.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The ideal movie snack, courtesy of Duc Huong. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>2. Banh mi dac biet at Duc Huong\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>2345 McKee Road, San Jose\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes you want cloth napkins, “still or sparkling” and a dozen courses of beautifully composed plates with complicated garnishes. Other times (maybe even \u003ci>most \u003c/i>of the time), you just want to pull up to the drive-in theater and eat banh mi on the hood of your car while watching the latest Marvel movie with your kids. In that case, you might as well head to Duc Huong, which almost certainly deserves to be in the conversation for best banh mi in San Jose — and, therefore, the best banh mi in the Bay — even if it isn’t your personal pick. The local mini-chain has five locations, each with a briskly efficient line out the door and the kind of fresh-baked baguettes and masterfully constructed sandwiches that are well worth the wait.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love how Duc Huong offers a small, half-size option that allows an indecisive banh mi orderer to try two or three different sandwiches. When in doubt, though, go for the dac biet, with its hefty slices of headcheese and other cold cuts, and the precise balance it strikes between its bright pickled veggies and earthy swipe of pâté. For me, it was more satisfying, even, than a big tub of buttered popcorn: The trailers had barely ended, and I’d already finished every last bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13915379\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13915379\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/038_KQEDArts_MongolianKhorkhog_05092022.jpg\" alt=\"A man lifts up the lid of a pressure cooker to reveal lamb and cabbage inside.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/038_KQEDArts_MongolianKhorkhog_05092022.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/038_KQEDArts_MongolianKhorkhog_05092022-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/038_KQEDArts_MongolianKhorkhog_05092022-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/038_KQEDArts_MongolianKhorkhog_05092022-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/038_KQEDArts_MongolianKhorkhog_05092022-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/038_KQEDArts_MongolianKhorkhog_05092022-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Khorkhog, a Mongolian dish of pressure-cooked lamb, served at Wildcat Canyon Regional Park in Richmond. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>3. Khorkhog at Dumpling House Mongolian Cuisine\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>2221 San Pablo Ave. #6, Richmond\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’d wanted to try the dish that had been described to me as “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13915312/real-mongolian-barbecue-khorkhog-richmond\">the real Mongolian barbecue\u003c/a>” for several years. Then, in June, the kind Mongolian family that runs Richmond’s Dumpling House brought me to a park in the East Bay hills and showed me how they make the slow-cooked whole lamb dish known as khorkhog the traditional way — over a live fire, inside a heavy-duty, old-school pressure cooker that’s been sealed tight and filled with blistering hot rocks. We tore off hunks of meat and ate with our bare hands, scooping up pieces of carrot, cabbage and rutabaga that had soaked up the same savory lamb juices that were dripping down our chins. And while I cannot promise you the exact same experience, I can tell you that you can, in fact, order an indoor version of khorkhog at the restaurant. All you need to do is call a few hours ahead and bring at least three or four hungry carnivores with you to share the bounty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921972\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921972\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/rocky-island_oysters.jpg\" alt=\"A tray of oysters on ice.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/rocky-island_oysters.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/rocky-island_oysters-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/rocky-island_oysters-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/rocky-island_oysters-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/rocky-island_oysters-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/rocky-island_oysters-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rocky Island Oyster Co. puts the spotlight on East Coast oysters. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>4. East Coast oysters at Rocky Island Oyster Co.\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>1440 Harbour Way S., Richmond\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A freshly shucked Pacific oyster is a lovely thing. But when Rocky Island Oyster Co. \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13909648/rocky-island-oyster-bar-richmond-waterfront-view-lobster-roll\">opened in Richmond late last year\u003c/a>, it was with the express purpose of introducing Bay Area shellfish enthusiasts to a new love: the East Coast oyster. Specifically, oysters from the area near owner Danny Pirello’s hometown on the Massachusetts shoreline. And I must admit: It didn’t take more than a single slurp to turn me into a convert to the pleasures of these crisp, briny-sweet beauties (saltier and more substantial than, say, your typical Kumamoto), which I’d have happily made an entire meal of with no other addition than a lemon wedge and a little tub of mignonette. Of course, the waterfront outdoor seating area’s immaculate vibes and million-dollar view of Bay made everything taste even sweeter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921976\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921976\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/wahpepahs_three-sisters.jpg\" alt=\"A salad with cooked grains, squash, nuts, heirloom corn and more.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/wahpepahs_three-sisters.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/wahpepahs_three-sisters-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/wahpepahs_three-sisters-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/wahpepahs_three-sisters-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/wahpepahs_three-sisters-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/wahpepahs_three-sisters-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A salad featuring the “three sisters” (corn, squash and beans) that are traditional in several Native food cultures. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>5a. Three Sisters’ Salad at Wahpepah’s Kitchen\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>3301 E. 12th St. #133, Oakland\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have said on the record many times that I do not, as a general rule, particularly care for salads. Maybe it’s more accurate to say I don’t like the kind of endlessly monotonous, Eurocentric salads made up of nothing but raw vegetables. Give me all the nuts, seeds and other assorted crunchy things! Mix in some cooked ingredients, fish sauce or fermented tea leaves, or big chunks of meat and cheese. The Three Sisters’ Salad at \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13903531/wahpepahs-kitchen-fruitvale-indigenous-restaurant\">Wahpepah’s Kitchen, a new indigenous-owned restaurant in Oakland’s Fruitvale neighborhood\u003c/a>, was the perfect antidote to my bland-salad doldrums. I loved all of the different textures from the variety of raw and cooked elements: the quinoa, amaranth, chopped nuts and, of course, the traditional “sisters” themselves (heirloom corn, beans and squash). And the dressing — a maple reduction mixed with chili oil — was such a memorable combination of sweet, spicy, smoky flavors that the only word that came to mind was one I almost never use to describe a salad: It was thrilling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921980\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921980\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/2207_salad.jpg\" alt=\"Takeout box filled with grain salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/2207_salad.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/2207_salad-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/2207_salad-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/2207_salad-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/2207_salad-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/2207_salad-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A salad that’s not just salad greens and other raw vegetables. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>5b. Market grain salad with harissa grilled chicken at 2207\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>2207 Macdonald Ave., Richmond\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No, no one has taken me hostage: I do in fact have (count ’em) \u003ci>two\u003c/i> salads in this top 10 list. This one’s an old favorite recently brought back into the rotation now that my neighborhood takeout lunch spot, 2207, has reopened — on a \u003ca href=\"https://twenty2zero7.square.site/?location=11eb70099aab40c6889eac1f6bbbd01e\">preorder-only basis\u003c/a> — after shutting down for the first two-plus years of the pandemic. The restaurant makes a fabulously beefy patty melt and some of my favorite fried chicken in the Bay, so it’s saying something that the one menu staple I keep coming back to is a \u003ci>market grain salad\u003c/i>. It comes loaded not just with your usual mixed greens, but also cooked grains, thick slabs of feta, chicken thigh meat with the impeccably crispy skin still attached and whatever gorgeous produce happens to be in season — pomegranate seeds and slices of persimmon, perhaps, or sweet corn and ripe stone fruit if you’re lucky enough to snag this during the summer months. The tahini-based dressing is a little bit sweet, a little bit spicy and, like everything else about this salad, \u003ci>just right\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921975\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921975\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/noodle-in-a-haystack_abura-soba.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of ramen with no soup, topped with a slice of wagyu beef.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/noodle-in-a-haystack_abura-soba.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/noodle-in-a-haystack_abura-soba-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/noodle-in-a-haystack_abura-soba-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/noodle-in-a-haystack_abura-soba-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/noodle-in-a-haystack_abura-soba-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/noodle-in-a-haystack_abura-soba-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hype-worthy noodles. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>6. Wagyu beef abura soba at Noodle in a Haystack\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>4601 Geary Blvd., San Francisco\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Noodle in a Haystack’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13898743/noodle-in-a-haystack-ramen-pop-up-sf-richmond\">legend preceded it\u003c/a>. From its roots as an underground supper club run out of its founders’ home kitchen, San Francisco’s most ambitious and eccentric ramen shop had acquired a reputation for serving \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/noodle-haystack-ramen-17458157.php\">the Bay Area’s best ramen\u003c/a> by a wide margin — and, perhaps, some of the best you can find outside of Japan — years before its tiny Inner Richmond storefront debuted earlier this spring. I am simply here to tell you that the place lives up to all of the hype, even if the $175 price tag (for a 10-plus course tasting menu) isn’t for everyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I could write separate, well-deserved entries about the deviled egg opener (supercharged with fish powder, fish roe and crispy chicken skin), the crab and tofu soup or the fried pork belly. But suffice it to say that the ramen dish they were serving on the night of my visit — a soupless version featuring thick, springy noodles coated in a rich sauce made with rendered wagyu beef fat — was so delicious that it left me completely speechless.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921982\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921982\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/marvins_chicken-fried-steak.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of chicken fried steak, toast and hash browns.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/marvins_chicken-fried-steak.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/marvins_chicken-fried-steak-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/marvins_chicken-fried-steak-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/marvins_chicken-fried-steak-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/marvins_chicken-fried-steak-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/marvins_chicken-fried-steak-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marvin’s is the North Bay’s short-order breakfast king. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>7. Chicken fried steak at Marvin’s Breakfast Club in Novato\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>1112 Grant Ave., Novato\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let us take a moment to praise the short-order breakfast cook, whose workmanlike ranks have probably brought as much pleasure to my life as any Michelin star–chasing chef. This was the year I discovered Marvin’s Breakfast Club, a Platonic ideal of the short-order breakfast genre in Marin County, with its dependably crispy hash browns and its classic roster of omelets and Benedicts, each item as steadfast as your most dependable old childhood friend. What I love best is going to Marvin’s as a solo diner on a lazy Sunday, sliding into a counter stool with a paperback and ordering the chicken fried steak. This is a monstrous, supremely comforting plate of food, piled high with crisp, battered steak, runny-yolked eggs, country gravy, hash browns and buttered toast. I’ve been known to (against all odds) finish the entire thing, cross the bridge back home to the East Bay and immediately curl up for a nice long nap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921979\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921979\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/good-to-eat_bbq.jpg\" alt=\"Small bowl of lu rou fan next to a plate of grilled chicken.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/good-to-eat_bbq.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/good-to-eat_bbq-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/good-to-eat_bbq-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/good-to-eat_bbq-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/good-to-eat_bbq-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/good-to-eat_bbq-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lu rou fan and Taiwanese-style grilled chicken were just two of the offerings at Good-to-Eat Dumplings’ Mid-Autumn Festival event. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>8. Taiwanese barbecue at Good-to-Eat Dumplings\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>1298 65th St., Emeryville\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Taiwan, Mid-Autumn Festival isn’t just an occasion to eat mooncakes; it has also become the unofficial national day of grilling, when folks young and old gather in riverside parks or \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13915306/bbq-in-the-bay-series-intro-multicultural-barbecue-bay-area\">crouch on the sidewalk over makeshift grill grates set over cement blocks or car tire rims\u003c/a>, gorging themselves on meat skewer after well-charred meat skewer. This year, newly opened Taiwanese hotspot Good-to-Eat Dumplings celebrated Mid-Autumn Festival by firing up the grill and bringing this tradition to its Emeryville back patio, serving a slew of oversized grilled chicken breasts, sweet Taiwanese-style sausages, corn on the cob slathered in Taiwanese barbecue sauce and big bowls of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897498/mama-liu-lu-rou-fan-taiwanese-food-comic\">lu rou fan\u003c/a> for good measure. Needless to say, all of the food was delicious — but beyond that, watching the long queue of diners waiting in line for Taiwanese barbecue in the restaurant’s little backyard, the smell of charcoal wafting in the air, I felt closer to my home country than I had at any other point of the pandemic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921978\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921978\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san-ho-won_galbi.jpg\" alt=\"Korean-style short ribs on a rack.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san-ho-won_galbi.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san-ho-won_galbi-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san-ho-won_galbi-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san-ho-won_galbi-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san-ho-won_galbi-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san-ho-won_galbi-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The galbi at San Ho Won is as tender as butter. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>9. Galbi and beef neck at San Ho Won\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>2170 Bryant St., San Francisco\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>San Ho Won might be the most affordable among multiple-Michelin man Corey Lee’s fleet of San Francisco restaurants, but few diners would mistake it for an everyday kind of place. As a destination for celebrating that job promotion, or stimulus check, or unusually generous New Year’s red envelope? The \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13921461/san-ho-won-korean-lager-fort-point-beer-corey-lee-san-francisco\">charcoal barbecue spot\u003c/a> is pretty darn great — especially if grilled beef is your indulgence of choice. Here, even more than at your average Korean barbecue joint, each order of beef neck and thick, double-cut galbi is the product of literal sweat labor: The grill masters spend the whole night on their feet, toiling in the smoke in front of red-hot charcoal. The first time I ate at San Ho Won, it was to celebrate an unexpected windfall of my own — and so, every precisely cut, crisp-edged, impossibly tender piece of meat felt like the luckiest kind of gift.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921981\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921981\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og.jpg\" alt=\"A massive sandwich overflowing with pastrami and slaw.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/delirama_og-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The “OG.” \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>10. The ‘O.G.’ at Delirama\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>1746 Solano Ave., Berkeley\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best sandwich I ate in the Bay Area this year came on thick slices of fresh-baked rye bread griddled in enough butter to raise eyebrows. It was loaded with coleslaw (more mustardy than sweet), with Thousand Island dressing and gruyere cheese. And because I’d ordered the sandwich “husky,” with extra meat — since that’s the kind of sandwich eater I am — it came practically overflowing with Delirama’s claim to fame: house-made pastrami so flavorful, so lusciously fatty and crisp around the edges, that it set a new Bay Area standard for the deli classic \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13917120/delirama-pastrami-berkeley-opening-hella-hungry\">from the first day the restaurant opened\u003c/a>. This is a sandwich that commands your full attention — and requires short breaks to finish the whole thing. Let the record show: I was up to the task.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "the-backyard-richmond-outdoor-restaurant-hardware-store-burgers-breakfast-sandwiches",
"title": "A New Outdoor Restaurant Promises Comfort Food and Music — Behind a Hardware Store in Richmond",
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"headTitle": "A New Outdoor Restaurant Promises Comfort Food and Music — Behind a Hardware Store in Richmond | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s not every day that an outdoor dining spot pops up in the back cuts of Richmond. But near the Chevron refinery and train yards, tucked between the marina’s port and Highway 580, you’ll find a new gathering place for food, drinks and live music: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/richmondbackyard/\">the Backyard\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hidden in an unassuming lot behind the \u003ca href=\"https://www.acehardware.com/store-details/17792\">Whale Point Marine & Hardware\u003c/a> store — where day laborers, fishermen and construction workers pull up for specialty work wear and supplies — the Backyard feels like a quirky oasis surrounded by industrial grit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With lawn games, spacious outdoor seating, a music system that slaps, a large stage, palm trees and splashes of vibrant color that pop in contrast to the surrounding steel and chain-link fences, the venue promises to be a fun, family-friendly place to chill while grubbing on burgers, sandwiches and small shared bites. There’s a plan to project movies at night, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the Backyard’s grand opening two weeks ago, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/khruangbin/\">Khruangbin\u003c/a>’s psychedelic guitar riffs blared from surrounding speakers to a small crowd of patrons, who — like me — lined up outside of the business’s converted Airstream trailer to order lunch. Even on its first day, the spot was already serving as a restful gathering place for construction workers, young parents, elderly couples and anyone else who needed a break. As 16-wheelers rumbled along Cutting Boulevard, I soaked in a rare beam of sunshine and grubbed on “the Backyard Burger,” a classic cheeseburger with pickled onions and special house sauce served on an Acme bun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It all felt appropriately Richmond — seeing cranes and shipping containers across the street while enjoying a no-frills burger that was cooked up in a food truck next to a gravelly lot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921652\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13921652\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_burger-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a burger and order of fries on a paper tray on a table at an outdoor eatery in Richmond\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_burger-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_burger-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_burger-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_burger-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_burger-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_burger.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Backyard Burger is a staple menu item. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Backyard’s arrival signals the addition of yet another food joint outside of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101887986/exploring-richmonds-taco-corridor-and-more-with-luke-tsai\">Richmond’s traditional food corridors\u003c/a> like 23rd St., where Mexican and Central American flavors are as abundant as they are in the Mission and Fruitvale. It’s a sign of Richmond’s growing craft food and beverage scene happening along the city’s periphery, where small businesses like \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13914400/el-garage-armistice-brewing-mangonada-beer-richmond\">Armistice Brewing\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eastbrotherbeer/\">East Brother Beer\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/explore/locations/1035426537/far-west-cider-co/\">Far West Cider\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/rockyislandoysterco/\">Rocky Island Oyster Co.\u003c/a> have all found a home, despite being relatively out of sight and off the grid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As with many independent \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101891054/finding-amazing-food-in-unlikely-places\">food businesses that are located in unexpected places\u003c/a>, the Backyard runs the risk of being overlooked (see: Black Star Pirate BBQ, the barbecue destination in nearby Point San Pablo that \u003ca href=\"https://www.eastbaytimes.com/2022/10/04/black-star-pirate-bbq-in-richmonds-san-pablo-harbor-to-close-in-november/\">recently lost its lease\u003c/a>). But the Backyard owner Emmet Kauffman, a San Francisco born-and-bred entrepreneur, is used to the grind and ready to embrace the challenge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here’s what the painter-turned-backyard-chef has to say about Richmond’s latest spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>ALAN CHAZARO: \u003c/b>Congratulations on opening this month. Tell us about the Backyard and your vision for this new space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>EMMET KAUFFMAN:\u003c/b> I want the Backyard to be a place for people to feel comfortable to come and not just have to buy a burger. If you need a place to hang out with your kids and let them run around and you want some small bites, you can do that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu right now is simple, tight and delicious. I’m focusing on those hearty, number one items that people want. We have a solid breakfast menu in an industrial area. This is for your working-class people. You can pull up and get a breakfast sandwich with cheddar cheese, fluffy egg and sausage or bacon. You can add avocado and other toppings. We also have a breakfast box which is a deconstructed breakfast sandwich, with more eggs and a hash brown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For lunch, we currently have two solid burgers: a Santa Fe burger and the Backyard burger. We have a BLT and a grilled cheese, too. We’re using Acme Bread from Berkeley, which is delicious. We also serve tartines [the restaurant’s take on a bruschetta], and we’re getting ready to expand that soon. Currently we have the margherita tartine. That’s my speciality: a bruschetta with goat cheese, cherry tomatoes, garlic, basil, balsamic. It’s like a fresh pizza. We also have avocado [toast] — micro greens, sauteed tomatoes, honey drizzle. We offer charcuterie boards, too — we call it a “cutting board,” since we’re on Cutting Blvd. in Richmond — but only on the weekends. It serves about four — a full spread with brie, salami, nuts, fruits. Something fun to share.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My dream restaurant would be like something in Barcelona. A full spread, tapas style. Fancy breads, tartines. That’s the direction we’re going in, and we’re just settling into our capacity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>When did your interest in food making begin?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was born and raised in San Francisco, and I was never the best at school. My mom tried getting me in programs that I could click with. She knew I had a passion for cooking. She got me into a program in Marin. They did an event at the Fillmore Jazz Festival when I was 17. I worked with Chef David Lawrence at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/1300onfillmore/\">1300 on Fillmore\u003c/a>, and he spotted me out of everyone and told me to come back the next day. He had me make sweet potato gnocchi. I was a senior in high school, and he hired me to work on the line on the weekends without prior experience. That was it for me. I was there for three and a half years. In between that, my dad had his house remodeled, and the paint contractor was looking for workers. I got a job at a painting company when I was 19 and was working both jobs, 80- to 90-hour weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921654\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13921654 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_mural-800x533.jpg\" alt='a large mural that reads \"the Backyard\" is painted on the side of a wall in a large, outdoor space to eat' width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_mural-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_mural-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_mural-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_mural-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_mural-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_mural.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owner Emmet Kauffman, who used to be a painter, created the mural for the Backyard. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How did your work as a painter complement your growth in the food industry?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I went into painting full time and started managing a paint company [in San Francisco] at 19. I had a ton of experience, for about three years. Then I stopped painting and worked at Alexander’s Steakhouse, which had a Michelin star at the time. I got experience there, then joined the California National Guard. I focused on my military training. When I was 21, I started my own painting company [\u003ca href=\"http://kmanskreations.com/\">Kman’s Kreations\u003c/a>] and was in the National Guard for six years. I kept running my paint company for 10 years. COVID shook that up, and I wanted to rethink things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was priced out of San Francisco. A few years ago I moved to Richmond and saw an opportunity. The military allowed me to move to Richmond with the VA Loan. I fell in love here and took a leap by going back to my roots and passion with cooking. I’ve had over 10 years of experience running a business, building employees, working with clients and customers. This is my new passion project at 31. I still have time to fail (laughs). Food is the best kind of building. You can build it and then eat it and taste it. You can tweak it. It’s a form of art. It reminds me of painting in a way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Do you still operate your painting business in San Francisco?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>COVID hit, and everyone went their own ways. I continued working on my own for the past two years. I got a text the other day to come paint a house (laughs). I actually have a product I invented called \u003ca href=\"https://www.sprayersaver.com/\">Sprayer Saver\u003c/a>. It’s a simple product that my brother and I started. It holds your bucket at an angle so you can get all that paint when you’re using a paint sprayer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Is that how you ended up behind the Whale Point Marine & Hardware store? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13909648,arts_13914400,arts_13920831']Definitely. I’ve spent a lot of money at that hardware store (laughs). When I had the idea of creating [the Backyard], I was looking at other areas, but this area in Richmond was perfect. There is a lot getting built and bought very quickly here. I had a relationship with Jay [owner of Whale Point & Marine Hardware] because of my experience in painting. They also sell my product [Sprayer Saver]. He shot my idea down at first, but then a few days later he changed his mind and was down. That was it. I signed a contract and built it out as quickly as possible. It took me five months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did everything by myself: the fence, the mural, digging the palm trees, putting up the pergola and the foundation, moving everything, setting up the food trailers. It’s a true passion project. My dad would come out and water the palm trees when I was out of town. My brother helped put the fence together. My family is a big support. They’re all in San Francisco still but helped me get here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What other events and surprises are you planning for the Backyard? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a week or two we’d like to book some live musicians. We’re figuring out a movie aspect as well. There are old, funky movies from the ’40s and ’50s that are in the public domain that we could project once it gets dark. The overall feel that I really want our neighbors to get is this being their own backyard. This is a regular spot to just hang out. No need to spend a ton of money when you go out. We’ll have bands, beer and wine soon. We want this to be a space that can be rented for events, with custom menus, too. We can create a special menu for you. Stuff like that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921651\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13921651\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_avocado_toast-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"an order of avocado toast is served on a paper tray\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_avocado_toast-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_avocado_toast-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_avocado_toast-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_avocado_toast-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_avocado_toast-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_avocado_toast.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The avocado tartine is topped with micro greens, sautéed tomatoes, avocado and honey drizzle. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What do you like about living in Richmond compared to San Francisco? How did you end up on this side of the Bay Bridge?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a better way to see the City. I didn’t have a ton of money, but enough to get a starter home here. I was driving around the Bay looking at homes, and I liked Richmond the most, especially down by the Marina. The opportunity presented itself, and I’m glad I ended up here. It reminds me of the Dogpatch [in San Francisco]. About 20 years ago [in what’s now Dogpatch], you could climb into abandoned industrial buildings. I always had a fondness for that. But now it’s like a hotspot in the city. That’s crazy to me. That’s how I see Richmond as a whole, from the industrial side. It’s like the last holdout in the Bay Area. There’s an opportunity for growth. That whole ferry area is growing. I have a fondness for what Frisco used to be, and this reminds me of that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What motivates you to run a food business in the Bay Area, despite the high costs?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seven generations in California. Our great-great-grandfather was the 13th senator of California. My mom was born in San Francisco. This runs in my blood. My blood runs gold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/richmondbackyard/\">\u003ci>The Backyard\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is located at 205 Cutting Blvd., Richmond, behind Whale Point Marine & Hardware. It’s open Mon. through Thu. 8 a.m.–4 p.m. and Fri. through Sun. 8 a.m.–6 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "The Backyard Promises Comfort Food and Music Behind a Hardware Store in Richmond | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s not every day that an outdoor dining spot pops up in the back cuts of Richmond. But near the Chevron refinery and train yards, tucked between the marina’s port and Highway 580, you’ll find a new gathering place for food, drinks and live music: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/richmondbackyard/\">the Backyard\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hidden in an unassuming lot behind the \u003ca href=\"https://www.acehardware.com/store-details/17792\">Whale Point Marine & Hardware\u003c/a> store — where day laborers, fishermen and construction workers pull up for specialty work wear and supplies — the Backyard feels like a quirky oasis surrounded by industrial grit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With lawn games, spacious outdoor seating, a music system that slaps, a large stage, palm trees and splashes of vibrant color that pop in contrast to the surrounding steel and chain-link fences, the venue promises to be a fun, family-friendly place to chill while grubbing on burgers, sandwiches and small shared bites. There’s a plan to project movies at night, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the Backyard’s grand opening two weeks ago, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/khruangbin/\">Khruangbin\u003c/a>’s psychedelic guitar riffs blared from surrounding speakers to a small crowd of patrons, who — like me — lined up outside of the business’s converted Airstream trailer to order lunch. Even on its first day, the spot was already serving as a restful gathering place for construction workers, young parents, elderly couples and anyone else who needed a break. As 16-wheelers rumbled along Cutting Boulevard, I soaked in a rare beam of sunshine and grubbed on “the Backyard Burger,” a classic cheeseburger with pickled onions and special house sauce served on an Acme bun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It all felt appropriately Richmond — seeing cranes and shipping containers across the street while enjoying a no-frills burger that was cooked up in a food truck next to a gravelly lot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921652\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13921652\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_burger-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a burger and order of fries on a paper tray on a table at an outdoor eatery in Richmond\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_burger-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_burger-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_burger-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_burger-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_burger-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_burger.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Backyard Burger is a staple menu item. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Backyard’s arrival signals the addition of yet another food joint outside of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101887986/exploring-richmonds-taco-corridor-and-more-with-luke-tsai\">Richmond’s traditional food corridors\u003c/a> like 23rd St., where Mexican and Central American flavors are as abundant as they are in the Mission and Fruitvale. It’s a sign of Richmond’s growing craft food and beverage scene happening along the city’s periphery, where small businesses like \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13914400/el-garage-armistice-brewing-mangonada-beer-richmond\">Armistice Brewing\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eastbrotherbeer/\">East Brother Beer\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/explore/locations/1035426537/far-west-cider-co/\">Far West Cider\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/rockyislandoysterco/\">Rocky Island Oyster Co.\u003c/a> have all found a home, despite being relatively out of sight and off the grid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As with many independent \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101891054/finding-amazing-food-in-unlikely-places\">food businesses that are located in unexpected places\u003c/a>, the Backyard runs the risk of being overlooked (see: Black Star Pirate BBQ, the barbecue destination in nearby Point San Pablo that \u003ca href=\"https://www.eastbaytimes.com/2022/10/04/black-star-pirate-bbq-in-richmonds-san-pablo-harbor-to-close-in-november/\">recently lost its lease\u003c/a>). But the Backyard owner Emmet Kauffman, a San Francisco born-and-bred entrepreneur, is used to the grind and ready to embrace the challenge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here’s what the painter-turned-backyard-chef has to say about Richmond’s latest spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>ALAN CHAZARO: \u003c/b>Congratulations on opening this month. Tell us about the Backyard and your vision for this new space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>EMMET KAUFFMAN:\u003c/b> I want the Backyard to be a place for people to feel comfortable to come and not just have to buy a burger. If you need a place to hang out with your kids and let them run around and you want some small bites, you can do that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu right now is simple, tight and delicious. I’m focusing on those hearty, number one items that people want. We have a solid breakfast menu in an industrial area. This is for your working-class people. You can pull up and get a breakfast sandwich with cheddar cheese, fluffy egg and sausage or bacon. You can add avocado and other toppings. We also have a breakfast box which is a deconstructed breakfast sandwich, with more eggs and a hash brown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For lunch, we currently have two solid burgers: a Santa Fe burger and the Backyard burger. We have a BLT and a grilled cheese, too. We’re using Acme Bread from Berkeley, which is delicious. We also serve tartines [the restaurant’s take on a bruschetta], and we’re getting ready to expand that soon. Currently we have the margherita tartine. That’s my speciality: a bruschetta with goat cheese, cherry tomatoes, garlic, basil, balsamic. It’s like a fresh pizza. We also have avocado [toast] — micro greens, sauteed tomatoes, honey drizzle. We offer charcuterie boards, too — we call it a “cutting board,” since we’re on Cutting Blvd. in Richmond — but only on the weekends. It serves about four — a full spread with brie, salami, nuts, fruits. Something fun to share.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My dream restaurant would be like something in Barcelona. A full spread, tapas style. Fancy breads, tartines. That’s the direction we’re going in, and we’re just settling into our capacity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>When did your interest in food making begin?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was born and raised in San Francisco, and I was never the best at school. My mom tried getting me in programs that I could click with. She knew I had a passion for cooking. She got me into a program in Marin. They did an event at the Fillmore Jazz Festival when I was 17. I worked with Chef David Lawrence at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/1300onfillmore/\">1300 on Fillmore\u003c/a>, and he spotted me out of everyone and told me to come back the next day. He had me make sweet potato gnocchi. I was a senior in high school, and he hired me to work on the line on the weekends without prior experience. That was it for me. I was there for three and a half years. In between that, my dad had his house remodeled, and the paint contractor was looking for workers. I got a job at a painting company when I was 19 and was working both jobs, 80- to 90-hour weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921654\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13921654 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_mural-800x533.jpg\" alt='a large mural that reads \"the Backyard\" is painted on the side of a wall in a large, outdoor space to eat' width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_mural-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_mural-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_mural-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_mural-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_mural-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_mural.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owner Emmet Kauffman, who used to be a painter, created the mural for the Backyard. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How did your work as a painter complement your growth in the food industry?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I went into painting full time and started managing a paint company [in San Francisco] at 19. I had a ton of experience, for about three years. Then I stopped painting and worked at Alexander’s Steakhouse, which had a Michelin star at the time. I got experience there, then joined the California National Guard. I focused on my military training. When I was 21, I started my own painting company [\u003ca href=\"http://kmanskreations.com/\">Kman’s Kreations\u003c/a>] and was in the National Guard for six years. I kept running my paint company for 10 years. COVID shook that up, and I wanted to rethink things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was priced out of San Francisco. A few years ago I moved to Richmond and saw an opportunity. The military allowed me to move to Richmond with the VA Loan. I fell in love here and took a leap by going back to my roots and passion with cooking. I’ve had over 10 years of experience running a business, building employees, working with clients and customers. This is my new passion project at 31. I still have time to fail (laughs). Food is the best kind of building. You can build it and then eat it and taste it. You can tweak it. It’s a form of art. It reminds me of painting in a way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Do you still operate your painting business in San Francisco?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>COVID hit, and everyone went their own ways. I continued working on my own for the past two years. I got a text the other day to come paint a house (laughs). I actually have a product I invented called \u003ca href=\"https://www.sprayersaver.com/\">Sprayer Saver\u003c/a>. It’s a simple product that my brother and I started. It holds your bucket at an angle so you can get all that paint when you’re using a paint sprayer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Is that how you ended up behind the Whale Point Marine & Hardware store? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Definitely. I’ve spent a lot of money at that hardware store (laughs). When I had the idea of creating [the Backyard], I was looking at other areas, but this area in Richmond was perfect. There is a lot getting built and bought very quickly here. I had a relationship with Jay [owner of Whale Point & Marine Hardware] because of my experience in painting. They also sell my product [Sprayer Saver]. He shot my idea down at first, but then a few days later he changed his mind and was down. That was it. I signed a contract and built it out as quickly as possible. It took me five months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did everything by myself: the fence, the mural, digging the palm trees, putting up the pergola and the foundation, moving everything, setting up the food trailers. It’s a true passion project. My dad would come out and water the palm trees when I was out of town. My brother helped put the fence together. My family is a big support. They’re all in San Francisco still but helped me get here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What other events and surprises are you planning for the Backyard? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a week or two we’d like to book some live musicians. We’re figuring out a movie aspect as well. There are old, funky movies from the ’40s and ’50s that are in the public domain that we could project once it gets dark. The overall feel that I really want our neighbors to get is this being their own backyard. This is a regular spot to just hang out. No need to spend a ton of money when you go out. We’ll have bands, beer and wine soon. We want this to be a space that can be rented for events, with custom menus, too. We can create a special menu for you. Stuff like that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921651\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13921651\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_avocado_toast-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"an order of avocado toast is served on a paper tray\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_avocado_toast-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_avocado_toast-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_avocado_toast-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_avocado_toast-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_avocado_toast-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/backyard_avocado_toast.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The avocado tartine is topped with micro greens, sautéed tomatoes, avocado and honey drizzle. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What do you like about living in Richmond compared to San Francisco? How did you end up on this side of the Bay Bridge?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a better way to see the City. I didn’t have a ton of money, but enough to get a starter home here. I was driving around the Bay looking at homes, and I liked Richmond the most, especially down by the Marina. The opportunity presented itself, and I’m glad I ended up here. It reminds me of the Dogpatch [in San Francisco]. About 20 years ago [in what’s now Dogpatch], you could climb into abandoned industrial buildings. I always had a fondness for that. But now it’s like a hotspot in the city. That’s crazy to me. That’s how I see Richmond as a whole, from the industrial side. It’s like the last holdout in the Bay Area. There’s an opportunity for growth. That whole ferry area is growing. I have a fondness for what Frisco used to be, and this reminds me of that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What motivates you to run a food business in the Bay Area, despite the high costs?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seven generations in California. Our great-great-grandfather was the 13th senator of California. My mom was born in San Francisco. This runs in my blood. My blood runs gold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/richmondbackyard/\">\u003ci>The Backyard\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is located at 205 Cutting Blvd., Richmond, behind Whale Point Marine & Hardware. It’s open Mon. through Thu. 8 a.m.–4 p.m. and Fri. through Sun. 8 a.m.–6 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "This Michelin-Starred Chef's New Korean Lager Is Brewed Right Here in San Francisco",
"headTitle": "This Michelin-Starred Chef’s New Korean Lager Is Brewed Right Here in San Francisco | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>Here’s a Bay Area food fact: Our region is home to Corey Lee, the first Korean chef in the world to be awarded with three Michelin stars — and also the first San Francisco chef of any background to reach that milestone when Benu, Lee’s flagship restaurant, first took the honor in 2014.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Lee’s culinary reach doesn’t simply boil down to symbolic gestures, and he does more than serve elevated ingredients on a plate. When he opened San Ho Won — the chef’s first explicitly Korean restaurant — in the Mission District last year, Lee wanted to go beyond the kitchen to accentuate the food’s traditional Korean flavors. That’s the idea behind the restaurant’s latest offering: a fresh Korean lager brewed in collaboration with San Francisco’s Fort Point Beer Company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921464\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13921464\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/coreyleeportrait_9360_web_srgb_photo_by_aya_brackett-800x1120.jpg\" alt=\"Michellin-starred chef, Corey Lee, poses casually for a photo\" width=\"800\" height=\"1120\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/coreyleeportrait_9360_web_srgb_photo_by_aya_brackett-800x1120.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/coreyleeportrait_9360_web_srgb_photo_by_aya_brackett-1020x1428.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/coreyleeportrait_9360_web_srgb_photo_by_aya_brackett-160x224.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/coreyleeportrait_9360_web_srgb_photo_by_aya_brackett-768x1075.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/coreyleeportrait_9360_web_srgb_photo_by_aya_brackett-1097x1536.jpg 1097w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/coreyleeportrait_9360_web_srgb_photo_by_aya_brackett-1463x2048.jpg 1463w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/coreyleeportrait_9360_web_srgb_photo_by_aya_brackett-1920x2688.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/coreyleeportrait_9360_web_srgb_photo_by_aya_brackett-scaled.jpg 1828w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Corey Lee, who teamed up with Fort Point Beer Co. to create a Korean lager for his restaurant, San Ho Won. \u003ccite>(Aya Brackett)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Under the direction of day-to-day chef Jeongin Hwang, San Ho Won is known for its upscale, seasonal take on Korean-style charcoal barbecue, with classics like galbi and osam bulgogi (grilled pork belly with spicy squid). Now, the restaurant can also offer a signature Korean beer that reminds Lee of his birthplace in South Korea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We wanted a beer that pairs generally well with Korean cuisine and [is] well-suited for Korean drinking customs,” Lee says about his collaboration with Fort Point. “Korean drinking culture is connected to food. We rarely have drinks without food, so we wanted to make a beer that was versatile.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result of a six-month process of research, tasting and flavor development, the “SHW” is a 4.6% ABV Korean lager — a style of beer that’s highlighted by its light, crisp body. The beverage will be exclusively available at San Ho Won, as well as Fort Point’s San Francisco locations in the Mission, the Presidio and the Ferry Building.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To celebrate their collaborative efforts, Chef Lee and his San Ho Won squad will take over Fort Point Valencia on Nov. 14 for “Ssam Bar and Somaek” — a unique experience centered on Korean bites and communal drinking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921465\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13921465 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/shw_fort_point-3-800x534.jpg\" alt=\"a table of Korean food with a beer being poured into a glass\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/shw_fort_point-3-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/shw_fort_point-3-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/shw_fort_point-3-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/shw_fort_point-3-768x513.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/shw_fort_point-3-1536x1026.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/shw_fort_point-3.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">SHW was brewed with Korean food and communal drinking culture in mind. \u003ccite>(Fort Point Beer Company)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The SHW lager was specifically made with somaek — a cocktail made by combining soju and light beer — in mind. At the Fort Point event, the drink will be served with small plates such as assorted ssams (lettuce wraps), including pork belly served with sesame leaf and radish saengchae (a Korean mixed vegetable salad). Other dishes will include hwedupbap (assorted raw fish and vegetables over steamed rice) and crispy cauliflower gangjeong (a deep-fried treat, coated with garlic soy glaze). But the beer will be the central star of the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Earlier in my career when I worked in French restaurants, it was important to develop dishes and offer a menu that allowed people to enjoy a variety of wines with their food,” Lee recalls from his days of working in Napa Valley. “But now, it’s not really a consideration. I don’t cook with wine in mind. I try to make a dish as tasty and satisfying as possible and find the beverage that goes well with it later. Personally, I think [it’s] perfect to have ice cold [Korean lager] with sizzling Korean BBQ that’s lightly smokey from grilling over charcoal.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921463\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921463\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san_ho_won_chef_jeong-in_hwang_grilling_credit_eric_wolfinger.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Jeongin Hwang prepares meat over a charcoal grill at his restaurant\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san_ho_won_chef_jeong-in_hwang_grilling_credit_eric_wolfinger.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san_ho_won_chef_jeong-in_hwang_grilling_credit_eric_wolfinger-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san_ho_won_chef_jeong-in_hwang_grilling_credit_eric_wolfinger-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san_ho_won_chef_jeong-in_hwang_grilling_credit_eric_wolfinger-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san_ho_won_chef_jeong-in_hwang_grilling_credit_eric_wolfinger-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san_ho_won_chef_jeong-in_hwang_grilling_credit_eric_wolfinger-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Jeongin Hwang prepares meat over a charcoal grill at San Ho Won. \u003ccite>(Eric Wolfinger)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The chef recalls becoming a fan of Fort Point’s beers during the pandemic, when he — like the rest of us — suddenly had more time to explore different flavor combinations while cooking at home. He enjoyed the balance of Fort Point’s beers and how “food-friendly” they were.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I distinctly remember texting a picture of the \u003ca href=\"https://fortpointbeer.com/products/ksa-kolsch?gclid=CjwKCAiAvK2bBhB8EiwAZUbP1GQ-ks43bO9rv1BcYVTvhkR917Qkt3e9N5iXC-h-IP2ioCs2z2RH6xoC9zgQAvD_BwE\">KSA\u003c/a> [kölsch-style ale] to San Ho Won’s chef, Jeongin Hwang, after trying it with one of our pandemic take-out offerings and saying that it actually goes really well with Korean food,” says Lee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, the chef can send out photos of a beer of his own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/somaek-ssam-w-fort-point-san-ho-won-tickets-440644929847\">\u003ci>Tickets for “Ssam Bar and Somaek”\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> are available for Monday, Nov. 14 at 5:30 or 7 p.m. $60 per person. The hour-long event will take place at Fort Point Valencia (742 Valencia St., San Francisco). Sixteen-ounce four-packs will be available for \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://fortpointbeer.com/collections\">\u003ci>online delivery\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> starting Nov. 9.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Here’s a Bay Area food fact: Our region is home to Corey Lee, the first Korean chef in the world to be awarded with three Michelin stars — and also the first San Francisco chef of any background to reach that milestone when Benu, Lee’s flagship restaurant, first took the honor in 2014.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Lee’s culinary reach doesn’t simply boil down to symbolic gestures, and he does more than serve elevated ingredients on a plate. When he opened San Ho Won — the chef’s first explicitly Korean restaurant — in the Mission District last year, Lee wanted to go beyond the kitchen to accentuate the food’s traditional Korean flavors. That’s the idea behind the restaurant’s latest offering: a fresh Korean lager brewed in collaboration with San Francisco’s Fort Point Beer Company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921464\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13921464\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/coreyleeportrait_9360_web_srgb_photo_by_aya_brackett-800x1120.jpg\" alt=\"Michellin-starred chef, Corey Lee, poses casually for a photo\" width=\"800\" height=\"1120\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/coreyleeportrait_9360_web_srgb_photo_by_aya_brackett-800x1120.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/coreyleeportrait_9360_web_srgb_photo_by_aya_brackett-1020x1428.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/coreyleeportrait_9360_web_srgb_photo_by_aya_brackett-160x224.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/coreyleeportrait_9360_web_srgb_photo_by_aya_brackett-768x1075.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/coreyleeportrait_9360_web_srgb_photo_by_aya_brackett-1097x1536.jpg 1097w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/coreyleeportrait_9360_web_srgb_photo_by_aya_brackett-1463x2048.jpg 1463w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/coreyleeportrait_9360_web_srgb_photo_by_aya_brackett-1920x2688.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/coreyleeportrait_9360_web_srgb_photo_by_aya_brackett-scaled.jpg 1828w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Corey Lee, who teamed up with Fort Point Beer Co. to create a Korean lager for his restaurant, San Ho Won. \u003ccite>(Aya Brackett)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Under the direction of day-to-day chef Jeongin Hwang, San Ho Won is known for its upscale, seasonal take on Korean-style charcoal barbecue, with classics like galbi and osam bulgogi (grilled pork belly with spicy squid). Now, the restaurant can also offer a signature Korean beer that reminds Lee of his birthplace in South Korea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We wanted a beer that pairs generally well with Korean cuisine and [is] well-suited for Korean drinking customs,” Lee says about his collaboration with Fort Point. “Korean drinking culture is connected to food. We rarely have drinks without food, so we wanted to make a beer that was versatile.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result of a six-month process of research, tasting and flavor development, the “SHW” is a 4.6% ABV Korean lager — a style of beer that’s highlighted by its light, crisp body. The beverage will be exclusively available at San Ho Won, as well as Fort Point’s San Francisco locations in the Mission, the Presidio and the Ferry Building.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To celebrate their collaborative efforts, Chef Lee and his San Ho Won squad will take over Fort Point Valencia on Nov. 14 for “Ssam Bar and Somaek” — a unique experience centered on Korean bites and communal drinking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921465\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13921465 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/shw_fort_point-3-800x534.jpg\" alt=\"a table of Korean food with a beer being poured into a glass\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/shw_fort_point-3-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/shw_fort_point-3-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/shw_fort_point-3-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/shw_fort_point-3-768x513.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/shw_fort_point-3-1536x1026.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/shw_fort_point-3.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">SHW was brewed with Korean food and communal drinking culture in mind. \u003ccite>(Fort Point Beer Company)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The SHW lager was specifically made with somaek — a cocktail made by combining soju and light beer — in mind. At the Fort Point event, the drink will be served with small plates such as assorted ssams (lettuce wraps), including pork belly served with sesame leaf and radish saengchae (a Korean mixed vegetable salad). Other dishes will include hwedupbap (assorted raw fish and vegetables over steamed rice) and crispy cauliflower gangjeong (a deep-fried treat, coated with garlic soy glaze). But the beer will be the central star of the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Earlier in my career when I worked in French restaurants, it was important to develop dishes and offer a menu that allowed people to enjoy a variety of wines with their food,” Lee recalls from his days of working in Napa Valley. “But now, it’s not really a consideration. I don’t cook with wine in mind. I try to make a dish as tasty and satisfying as possible and find the beverage that goes well with it later. Personally, I think [it’s] perfect to have ice cold [Korean lager] with sizzling Korean BBQ that’s lightly smokey from grilling over charcoal.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921463\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13921463\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san_ho_won_chef_jeong-in_hwang_grilling_credit_eric_wolfinger.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Jeongin Hwang prepares meat over a charcoal grill at his restaurant\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san_ho_won_chef_jeong-in_hwang_grilling_credit_eric_wolfinger.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san_ho_won_chef_jeong-in_hwang_grilling_credit_eric_wolfinger-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san_ho_won_chef_jeong-in_hwang_grilling_credit_eric_wolfinger-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san_ho_won_chef_jeong-in_hwang_grilling_credit_eric_wolfinger-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san_ho_won_chef_jeong-in_hwang_grilling_credit_eric_wolfinger-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/san_ho_won_chef_jeong-in_hwang_grilling_credit_eric_wolfinger-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Jeongin Hwang prepares meat over a charcoal grill at San Ho Won. \u003ccite>(Eric Wolfinger)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The chef recalls becoming a fan of Fort Point’s beers during the pandemic, when he — like the rest of us — suddenly had more time to explore different flavor combinations while cooking at home. He enjoyed the balance of Fort Point’s beers and how “food-friendly” they were.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I distinctly remember texting a picture of the \u003ca href=\"https://fortpointbeer.com/products/ksa-kolsch?gclid=CjwKCAiAvK2bBhB8EiwAZUbP1GQ-ks43bO9rv1BcYVTvhkR917Qkt3e9N5iXC-h-IP2ioCs2z2RH6xoC9zgQAvD_BwE\">KSA\u003c/a> [kölsch-style ale] to San Ho Won’s chef, Jeongin Hwang, after trying it with one of our pandemic take-out offerings and saying that it actually goes really well with Korean food,” says Lee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, the chef can send out photos of a beer of his own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/somaek-ssam-w-fort-point-san-ho-won-tickets-440644929847\">\u003ci>Tickets for “Ssam Bar and Somaek”\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> are available for Monday, Nov. 14 at 5:30 or 7 p.m. $60 per person. The hour-long event will take place at Fort Point Valencia (742 Valencia St., San Francisco). Sixteen-ounce four-packs will be available for \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://fortpointbeer.com/collections\">\u003ci>online delivery\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> starting Nov. 9.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Nigella Lawson's New Cookbook Leans Into the Pleasure of Home Food",
"headTitle": "Nigella Lawson’s New Cookbook Leans Into the Pleasure of Home Food | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>Sure, America might have a whole gamut of food celebrities: David Chang with his hard-edged braggadocio, Alton Brown’s affable nerdiness, Ina Garten and her aspirational East Hampton aesthetic. But we don’t have anyone quite like Nigella Lawson — or, simply, “Nigella,” as the London-born-and-raised cookbook author and television chef is known in the U.K., where her iconic status is hard to overstate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 20-plus years since she wrote her debut cookbook \u003ci>How to Eat\u003c/i> (1998), Lawson has built up a dedicated fanbase by being an outspoken proponent of the sensory pleasures that can be found in cooking and eating. She is “Lady Bountiful, a sensualist celebrator of appetite,” as a recent \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/food/2020/oct/10/nigella-lawson-i-didnt-think-id-be-a-mended-person-but-i-am\">\u003ci>Guardian \u003c/i>profile\u003c/a> put it. A journalist by training, Lawson speaks and writes about food with a poet’s ear for language in even the most seemingly tossed-off of comments. Who can forget the time when, as a guest judge on \u003ci>Top Chef\u003c/i>, she described a panna cotta as having the “quiver of a 17th century courtesan’s inner thigh”?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Cook, Eat, Repeat\u003c/i>, Lawson’s latest collection of essays and recipes, is packed with similarly lovely, discursive writing. It’s organized around a handful of wide-ranging themes and ingredients that interest her. Instead of having, say, a section for breakfast recipes and another for dessert, there’s a chapter on why she hates the term “guilty pleasure” — and an accompanying set of recipes that instead lean \u003ci>into \u003c/i>the pleasure. There’s an entire chapter’s worth of anchovy recipes. And yet another on rhubarb.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Written mostly during the early months of the pandemic, the book — and Lawson’s BBC cooking show of the same name — talks about cooking not as some big performance that you put on for the sake of others, but rather a set of small, repeated tasks that you weave into the course of your day. Something modest that’s worth celebrating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book was first released in the U.S. in April of last year — right when the Delta variant surge made it unsafe to launch an overseas publicity blitz. So, now, Lawson’s making up for lost time with an extended book tour that arrives at San Francisco’s Sydney Goldstein Theater on Monday, Nov. 14.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ahead of that appearance, I chatted with Lawson via Zoom about her love of “ugly” brown foods, the craft of recipe writing and her favorite Bay Area food discoveries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The following interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>LUKE TSAI: \u003c/b>I love that the book opens with this meditation on the literary possibilities of recipe writing, starting with your admiration of Aldoux Huxley’s description of champagne tasting like “an apple peeled with a steel knife.” That’s one of the things I’ve always appreciated about you, that you have this literary sensibility. Given that much of food writing today \u003ca href=\"https://www.aliciakennedy.news/p/on-food-writing\">can be somewhat rote and formulaic\u003c/a>, how do you approach writing your recipes? Are you trying to speak to the reader in a more personal or more literary kind of way?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>NIGELLA LAWSON: \u003c/b>I think writing is writing, and writing about food can be difficult. This is what attracted me in the first place. I was a journalist, and I thought about the challenge of using language, which is abstract, to conjure up the realm of the senses — the taste, texture and smell of food. How can I get that over to a reader? In a way, my style is my style because it’s my spoken voice as well. So what I am trying to do is bring the reader with me into the kitchen so that it’s not just about the steps — somehow the food has to alight in someone’s imagination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I write as someone who is very much a home cook. I haven’t learned the techniques — which is pretty evident if you see me cooking. I need to reassure myself \u003ci>and\u003c/i> the reader, so I might say suddenly, \u003ci>“Look, don’t worry, the sauce is very runny at this point; it will thicken as it cooks.” \u003c/i>Or I might say, \u003ci>“I know you won’t believe me when I say that you’ll be able to get all the batter in the tin, but you really will.”\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m trying to troubleshoot and at the same time I’m trying to convey enthusiasm, and those two aims are sometimes hard to get into balance. I really think I see the conveying of enthusiasm as my first task, but I also need to know that I tested the recipe so often that it won’t go wrong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I love that you have a chapter in the book that’s a “defense of brown food,” which is a topic that I’ve thought about a lot, especially as someone who grew up as an immigrant kid. All of those slow-cooked stews and braises in so many Asian or West African or Latin American cuisines — these are the foods that speak to my soul. And yet as an editor at various food publications, I was constantly told that I couldn’t feature those kinds of dishes too prominently because they were brown and ugly and didn’t photograph well. Can you talk about why you feel so strongly about this topic?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is partly that I feel that the pressure for picture-book prettiness has gathered momentum in this Instagram age. I had noticed that every now and then I would post a picture of a stew, and people would go,\u003ci> “Ugh, it looks horrible,”\u003c/i> or \u003ci>“Ugh, it’s brown.”\u003c/i> Now if I put the picture up, I’ll say, \u003ci>“Yes, it’s brown. It’s a stew; it’s meant to be brown.” \u003c/i>And I think it’s not just the color. People don’t complain about a photograph of a bar of chocolate. It’s also this strange thing, which probably goes very deep, about food that sloshes out and is uncontained. It’s messy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Nigella Lawson\"]“Don’t make everything about what you might do occasionally. Everything is about what you do every day: You meet in the kitchen with your family or your friends or for yourself.”[/pullquote]The thing is, food is beautiful regardless. There are different foods that speak so deeply to us. And those slow-cooked foods that belong predominantly in the home and maybe even from childhood — these can be from very, very different cultures. I was writing about the sort of stews in a more European culture because I suppose I was returning to recipes from my past.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think people are anxious when they cook. A lot of people buy cookbooks for some notion of when they’re going to entertain. But I always feel, don’t make everything about what you might do occasionally. Everything is about what you do every day: You meet in the kitchen with your family or your friends or for yourself. These slow-cooked foods do not have the bright beauty or vivid color of a lot of other dishes, but that vividness all goes into flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did a slight detour into the beige foods as well. There’s a dish I do called a soupy rice with celeriac and chestnuts, which is a bit mushy, and it is beige. There’s something, I feel, about certain sorts of recipes that are modest. They’re not requiring you to stand to attention. But the rewards they give are so rich and varied. There’s a quietness about some of those recipes that we need in our lives as well. Everything’s top volume; everything has to make a statement these days. But sometimes you don’t want to make a statement, and you don’t want your food to make a statement either.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>One thing I’ve noticed on social media is that you’ve really started championing several younger food writers who have taken it upon themselves to make food writing a little bit more diverse and less elitist — folks like \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://mobile.twitter.com/demarionunn\">\u003cb>Jonathan Nunn\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> in the U.K. and \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13906189/mayukh-sen-taste-makers-immigrant-women-food-america\">\u003cb>Mayukh Sen\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> in the US. Why is it important to you to do that?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Look, everyone is knocked off their perch at some stage. I don’t jealously guard my position. If people want to read my recipes, I’m thrilled — and if they don’t, they don’t. But I do feel that talent should always be encouraged. It brings me such joy when I’m sent a book early, and I just marvel at what someone is doing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Nigella Lawson\"]“There’s a reverential attitude toward the ingredients [in Northern California cooking], but a lack of reverence toward what you’re putting with what. It’s imagination tempered by a sort of relaxed modesty.”[/pullquote]It’s very difficult sometimes in the modern world to get attention when you’re not on television. It can be hard. Sometimes I give advice privately on how not to get taken advantage of, or just to protect the people who I think need to be cherished and nurtured. It’s very important for them to hold firm and not let their voice get taken away. Because there can be a tendency to make everything a bit more homogenous.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Something I love about your books is that sense of enthusiasm you spoke of earlier, which especially comes across when you discover something that’s new to you. What is a food that you had during one of your past visits to the Bay Area where you felt that spark of excitement?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13920714,arts_13921079,arts_13919177']The last time I was in the area, I went back to Berkeley, not to the restaurant but to the cafe at Chez Panisse. And I had their persimmon pudding, which was completely new to me. The texture was familiar because it was almost like the steamed puddings that we have [in the U.K.]. In other words, it’s a cake that’s eaten warm with a spoon and fork, and so it has a squidgier element than most cakes. It was wonderful, and the persimmon brings that particular aromatic sharpness that works well with this almost gingerbread-like warm cake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This must be hundreds of years ago, but the first time I came to San Francisco, I went to Judy Rodgers’ restaurant [Zuni Cafe] and had that \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2022/8/15/23279569/how-to-make-perfect-roast-chicken-zuni-cafe\">famous roast chicken with the bread salad\u003c/a>. It seemed to me so extraordinarily wonderful and confident. You have to wait for it. It’s, in a way, home food done but just done impeccably. And you share. And especially when you’re away from home, that just becomes such a particular treat — that food that feels cozy as well as exciting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve always been slightly obsessed with food in Northern California. You know, we were talking earlier about voice — how you shouldn’t alter someone’s voice when they cook. And I think the voice that informs the cooking in Northern California is bright, it’s uncluttered and yet it also takes a fresh look at all sorts of ingredients. I’m always sort of astounded at the mixture between the cozy and the elegant. It’s what I try to do an awful lot, and Californians do it particularly well. There’s a reverential attitude toward the ingredients, but a lack of reverence toward what you’re putting with what. It’s imagination tempered by a sort of relaxed modesty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-thumbnail wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"160\" height=\"16\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 160px) 100vw, 160px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Nigella Lawson will speak at the Sydney Goldstein Theater (275 Hayes St., San Francisco) on Monday, Nov. 14. Tickets are available \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.cityboxoffice.com/ordertickets.asp?p=13261\">\u003ci>online\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. She’ll also appear on Wednesday, Nov. 16 at the \u003ca href=\"https://lutherburbankcenter.org/event/nigella-lawson/\">Luther Burbank Center\u003c/a> in Santa Rosa.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Sure, America might have a whole gamut of food celebrities: David Chang with his hard-edged braggadocio, Alton Brown’s affable nerdiness, Ina Garten and her aspirational East Hampton aesthetic. But we don’t have anyone quite like Nigella Lawson — or, simply, “Nigella,” as the London-born-and-raised cookbook author and television chef is known in the U.K., where her iconic status is hard to overstate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 20-plus years since she wrote her debut cookbook \u003ci>How to Eat\u003c/i> (1998), Lawson has built up a dedicated fanbase by being an outspoken proponent of the sensory pleasures that can be found in cooking and eating. She is “Lady Bountiful, a sensualist celebrator of appetite,” as a recent \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/food/2020/oct/10/nigella-lawson-i-didnt-think-id-be-a-mended-person-but-i-am\">\u003ci>Guardian \u003c/i>profile\u003c/a> put it. A journalist by training, Lawson speaks and writes about food with a poet’s ear for language in even the most seemingly tossed-off of comments. Who can forget the time when, as a guest judge on \u003ci>Top Chef\u003c/i>, she described a panna cotta as having the “quiver of a 17th century courtesan’s inner thigh”?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Cook, Eat, Repeat\u003c/i>, Lawson’s latest collection of essays and recipes, is packed with similarly lovely, discursive writing. It’s organized around a handful of wide-ranging themes and ingredients that interest her. Instead of having, say, a section for breakfast recipes and another for dessert, there’s a chapter on why she hates the term “guilty pleasure” — and an accompanying set of recipes that instead lean \u003ci>into \u003c/i>the pleasure. There’s an entire chapter’s worth of anchovy recipes. And yet another on rhubarb.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Written mostly during the early months of the pandemic, the book — and Lawson’s BBC cooking show of the same name — talks about cooking not as some big performance that you put on for the sake of others, but rather a set of small, repeated tasks that you weave into the course of your day. Something modest that’s worth celebrating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book was first released in the U.S. in April of last year — right when the Delta variant surge made it unsafe to launch an overseas publicity blitz. So, now, Lawson’s making up for lost time with an extended book tour that arrives at San Francisco’s Sydney Goldstein Theater on Monday, Nov. 14.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ahead of that appearance, I chatted with Lawson via Zoom about her love of “ugly” brown foods, the craft of recipe writing and her favorite Bay Area food discoveries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The following interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>LUKE TSAI: \u003c/b>I love that the book opens with this meditation on the literary possibilities of recipe writing, starting with your admiration of Aldoux Huxley’s description of champagne tasting like “an apple peeled with a steel knife.” That’s one of the things I’ve always appreciated about you, that you have this literary sensibility. Given that much of food writing today \u003ca href=\"https://www.aliciakennedy.news/p/on-food-writing\">can be somewhat rote and formulaic\u003c/a>, how do you approach writing your recipes? Are you trying to speak to the reader in a more personal or more literary kind of way?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>NIGELLA LAWSON: \u003c/b>I think writing is writing, and writing about food can be difficult. This is what attracted me in the first place. I was a journalist, and I thought about the challenge of using language, which is abstract, to conjure up the realm of the senses — the taste, texture and smell of food. How can I get that over to a reader? In a way, my style is my style because it’s my spoken voice as well. So what I am trying to do is bring the reader with me into the kitchen so that it’s not just about the steps — somehow the food has to alight in someone’s imagination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I write as someone who is very much a home cook. I haven’t learned the techniques — which is pretty evident if you see me cooking. I need to reassure myself \u003ci>and\u003c/i> the reader, so I might say suddenly, \u003ci>“Look, don’t worry, the sauce is very runny at this point; it will thicken as it cooks.” \u003c/i>Or I might say, \u003ci>“I know you won’t believe me when I say that you’ll be able to get all the batter in the tin, but you really will.”\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m trying to troubleshoot and at the same time I’m trying to convey enthusiasm, and those two aims are sometimes hard to get into balance. I really think I see the conveying of enthusiasm as my first task, but I also need to know that I tested the recipe so often that it won’t go wrong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I love that you have a chapter in the book that’s a “defense of brown food,” which is a topic that I’ve thought about a lot, especially as someone who grew up as an immigrant kid. All of those slow-cooked stews and braises in so many Asian or West African or Latin American cuisines — these are the foods that speak to my soul. And yet as an editor at various food publications, I was constantly told that I couldn’t feature those kinds of dishes too prominently because they were brown and ugly and didn’t photograph well. Can you talk about why you feel so strongly about this topic?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is partly that I feel that the pressure for picture-book prettiness has gathered momentum in this Instagram age. I had noticed that every now and then I would post a picture of a stew, and people would go,\u003ci> “Ugh, it looks horrible,”\u003c/i> or \u003ci>“Ugh, it’s brown.”\u003c/i> Now if I put the picture up, I’ll say, \u003ci>“Yes, it’s brown. It’s a stew; it’s meant to be brown.” \u003c/i>And I think it’s not just the color. People don’t complain about a photograph of a bar of chocolate. It’s also this strange thing, which probably goes very deep, about food that sloshes out and is uncontained. It’s messy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "“Don’t make everything about what you might do occasionally. Everything is about what you do every day: You meet in the kitchen with your family or your friends or for yourself.”",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>The thing is, food is beautiful regardless. There are different foods that speak so deeply to us. And those slow-cooked foods that belong predominantly in the home and maybe even from childhood — these can be from very, very different cultures. I was writing about the sort of stews in a more European culture because I suppose I was returning to recipes from my past.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think people are anxious when they cook. A lot of people buy cookbooks for some notion of when they’re going to entertain. But I always feel, don’t make everything about what you might do occasionally. Everything is about what you do every day: You meet in the kitchen with your family or your friends or for yourself. These slow-cooked foods do not have the bright beauty or vivid color of a lot of other dishes, but that vividness all goes into flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did a slight detour into the beige foods as well. There’s a dish I do called a soupy rice with celeriac and chestnuts, which is a bit mushy, and it is beige. There’s something, I feel, about certain sorts of recipes that are modest. They’re not requiring you to stand to attention. But the rewards they give are so rich and varied. There’s a quietness about some of those recipes that we need in our lives as well. Everything’s top volume; everything has to make a statement these days. But sometimes you don’t want to make a statement, and you don’t want your food to make a statement either.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>One thing I’ve noticed on social media is that you’ve really started championing several younger food writers who have taken it upon themselves to make food writing a little bit more diverse and less elitist — folks like \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://mobile.twitter.com/demarionunn\">\u003cb>Jonathan Nunn\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> in the U.K. and \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13906189/mayukh-sen-taste-makers-immigrant-women-food-america\">\u003cb>Mayukh Sen\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> in the US. Why is it important to you to do that?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Look, everyone is knocked off their perch at some stage. I don’t jealously guard my position. If people want to read my recipes, I’m thrilled — and if they don’t, they don’t. But I do feel that talent should always be encouraged. It brings me such joy when I’m sent a book early, and I just marvel at what someone is doing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "“There’s a reverential attitude toward the ingredients [in Northern California cooking], but a lack of reverence toward what you’re putting with what. It’s imagination tempered by a sort of relaxed modesty.”",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>It’s very difficult sometimes in the modern world to get attention when you’re not on television. It can be hard. Sometimes I give advice privately on how not to get taken advantage of, or just to protect the people who I think need to be cherished and nurtured. It’s very important for them to hold firm and not let their voice get taken away. Because there can be a tendency to make everything a bit more homogenous.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Something I love about your books is that sense of enthusiasm you spoke of earlier, which especially comes across when you discover something that’s new to you. What is a food that you had during one of your past visits to the Bay Area where you felt that spark of excitement?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>The last time I was in the area, I went back to Berkeley, not to the restaurant but to the cafe at Chez Panisse. And I had their persimmon pudding, which was completely new to me. The texture was familiar because it was almost like the steamed puddings that we have [in the U.K.]. In other words, it’s a cake that’s eaten warm with a spoon and fork, and so it has a squidgier element than most cakes. It was wonderful, and the persimmon brings that particular aromatic sharpness that works well with this almost gingerbread-like warm cake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This must be hundreds of years ago, but the first time I came to San Francisco, I went to Judy Rodgers’ restaurant [Zuni Cafe] and had that \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2022/8/15/23279569/how-to-make-perfect-roast-chicken-zuni-cafe\">famous roast chicken with the bread salad\u003c/a>. It seemed to me so extraordinarily wonderful and confident. You have to wait for it. It’s, in a way, home food done but just done impeccably. And you share. And especially when you’re away from home, that just becomes such a particular treat — that food that feels cozy as well as exciting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve always been slightly obsessed with food in Northern California. You know, we were talking earlier about voice — how you shouldn’t alter someone’s voice when they cook. And I think the voice that informs the cooking in Northern California is bright, it’s uncluttered and yet it also takes a fresh look at all sorts of ingredients. I’m always sort of astounded at the mixture between the cozy and the elegant. It’s what I try to do an awful lot, and Californians do it particularly well. There’s a reverential attitude toward the ingredients, but a lack of reverence toward what you’re putting with what. It’s imagination tempered by a sort of relaxed modesty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-thumbnail wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"160\" height=\"16\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 160px) 100vw, 160px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Nigella Lawson will speak at the Sydney Goldstein Theater (275 Hayes St., San Francisco) on Monday, Nov. 14. Tickets are available \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.cityboxoffice.com/ordertickets.asp?p=13261\">\u003ci>online\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. She’ll also appear on Wednesday, Nov. 16 at the \u003ca href=\"https://lutherburbankcenter.org/event/nigella-lawson/\">Luther Burbank Center\u003c/a> in Santa Rosa.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "‘Colonialism Is Terrible, But Pho Is Delicious’ Is a Play About Food and Ownership",
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"content": "\u003cp>If you ask playwright Dustin Chinn for his Joker origin story, he might point to that time in 2016 when \u003ci>Bon Appétit \u003c/i>released a video entitled “\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/a11in/videos/10155292990304897/?t=0\">PSA: This Is How You Should Be Eating Pho\u003c/a>.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might remember the one — the white chef in a backwards baseball cap confidently dismissing anyone who adds hoisin or Sriracha to their pho broth while, in the \u003ci>very next breath\u003c/i>, explaining that he’ll squeeze as many limes into his broth as the restaurant is willing to give him (!!).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was one of those classic internet moments: There was the swift backlash (much of it from Vietnamese Americans righteously peeved at some dude-bro telling them they’d been doing it wrong this whole time), the \u003ca href=\"https://www.cosmopolitan.com/food-cocktails/news/a63868/bon-appetit-pho-controversy/\">defensive non-apology\u003c/a> and, eventually, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/how-you-should-eating-pho\">lengthier \u003ci>mea culpa\u003c/i>\u003c/a>. For Chinn, who is Chinese American, the incident helped spark a years-long obsession with questions of appropriation, colonialism and cultural ownership in food. Eventually, it culminated in his latest play, \u003ca href=\"https://auroratheatre.org/Pho\">\u003ci>Colonialism Is Terrible, But Pho Is Delicious\u003c/i>\u003c/a>, which debuts this week at the \u003ca href=\"https://auroratheatre.org/\">Aurora Theatre Company\u003c/a> in Berkeley under the direction of Oanh Nguyen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921339\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 240px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13921339\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dustin-chinn-headshot-160x224.jpg\" alt=\"Headshot of an Asian man in a hoodie.\" width=\"240\" height=\"336\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dustin-chinn-headshot-160x224.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dustin-chinn-headshot-768x1075.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dustin-chinn-headshot.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 240px) 100vw, 240px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Playwright Dustin Chinn. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of the Aurora Theatre)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp data-wp-editing=\"1\">“I think what struck me about [the video] was this particular brand of arrogance to suggest that there is a ‘right’ way [to eat pho]. And also for someone coming from the outsider perspective, who didn’t grow up in the tradition, to claim that they had ownership of it — wow, I don’t know where that comes from,” Chinn says. “Where do you cross the line to where you say, ‘I’ve got this. I’ve got this down’?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The play is set up as a triptych, exploring the aforementioned themes of appropriation and ownership through scenes taken from three imagined moments in the history of pho. The first is a retelling of the dish’s creation story, which is at least partly apocryphal. Chinn’s version focuses on a French aristocrat living in Hanoi during the late 19th century, when the city was the colonial capital of French Indochina. He hires a Vietnamese cook, who has to learn how to prepare pot-au-feu, the French stew that some people believe is the dish that eventually evolved into Vietnamese pho (though this is \u003ca href=\"https://www.splendidtable.org/story/2017/03/06/evolution-of-pho-a-modern-dish-born-of-multicultural-traditions\">widely disputed\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The second scene takes place in 1999 in Ho Chi Minh City, on the eve of President Bill Clinton’s visit — and right as Burger King was about to open the first American burger franchises in Vietnam. It focuses on two Americans visiting a pho cart, never having tried the dish before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, the last scene takes us to a Vietnamese restaurant in today’s rapidly gentrifying Brooklyn — a restaurant that, in a callback to the infamous \u003ci>Bon Appétit\u003c/i> video, refuses to provide any sauce to accompany its pho.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each of the scenes deals with colonialism and the power dynamics that come into play when one culture adapts or borrows from another culture’s cuisine. Each explores questions of what kind of food is considered “fancy” and who profits — and how much they profit — off the sale and popularization of that food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinn, for his part, doesn’t consider himself a “hardliner.” He doesn’t believe there should be any one-size-fits-all rule about who is “allowed” to cook certain types of food. He says he’s more interested in questions than in messages. That’s also why he says he wrote the play as a comedy rather than a straightforward drama.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13905293,arts_13895488,arts_13914750']“I’m a Chinese American writing about Vietnamese themes,” Chinn says. “This play is not about what it means to be Vietnamese. This play is more about the gray areas within these discussions of authorship and cultural ownership.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What he’s hoping is that the play will attract people who don’t typically go to the theater but who do feel invested in these kinds of issues around food culture. After all, he says, food is the one cultural topic that people get uniquely passionate about — to the point that there are some who consider it “hacky” when writers use food as a shorthand for culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Chinn, however, it’s for good reason that food evokes those kinds of primal feelings in people. “It’s something you engage with every day, more than literature or even music. It encompasses things about family and daily needs,” Chinn says. “In lieu of religion, people get very religious about food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Colonialism Is Terrible, But Pho Is Delicious\u003ci> is in previews until Nov. 10 at the Aurora Theatre Company (2081 Addison St., Berkeley). The official opening night is Thursday, Nov. 10 at 8 p.m., and the play runs until Dec. 4. You can \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://tickets.auroratheatre.org/TheatreManager/1/online?event=0\">\u003ci>buy tickets online\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>If you ask playwright Dustin Chinn for his Joker origin story, he might point to that time in 2016 when \u003ci>Bon Appétit \u003c/i>released a video entitled “\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/a11in/videos/10155292990304897/?t=0\">PSA: This Is How You Should Be Eating Pho\u003c/a>.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might remember the one — the white chef in a backwards baseball cap confidently dismissing anyone who adds hoisin or Sriracha to their pho broth while, in the \u003ci>very next breath\u003c/i>, explaining that he’ll squeeze as many limes into his broth as the restaurant is willing to give him (!!).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was one of those classic internet moments: There was the swift backlash (much of it from Vietnamese Americans righteously peeved at some dude-bro telling them they’d been doing it wrong this whole time), the \u003ca href=\"https://www.cosmopolitan.com/food-cocktails/news/a63868/bon-appetit-pho-controversy/\">defensive non-apology\u003c/a> and, eventually, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/how-you-should-eating-pho\">lengthier \u003ci>mea culpa\u003c/i>\u003c/a>. For Chinn, who is Chinese American, the incident helped spark a years-long obsession with questions of appropriation, colonialism and cultural ownership in food. Eventually, it culminated in his latest play, \u003ca href=\"https://auroratheatre.org/Pho\">\u003ci>Colonialism Is Terrible, But Pho Is Delicious\u003c/i>\u003c/a>, which debuts this week at the \u003ca href=\"https://auroratheatre.org/\">Aurora Theatre Company\u003c/a> in Berkeley under the direction of Oanh Nguyen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13921339\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 240px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13921339\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dustin-chinn-headshot-160x224.jpg\" alt=\"Headshot of an Asian man in a hoodie.\" width=\"240\" height=\"336\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dustin-chinn-headshot-160x224.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dustin-chinn-headshot-768x1075.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/11/dustin-chinn-headshot.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 240px) 100vw, 240px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Playwright Dustin Chinn. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of the Aurora Theatre)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp data-wp-editing=\"1\">“I think what struck me about [the video] was this particular brand of arrogance to suggest that there is a ‘right’ way [to eat pho]. And also for someone coming from the outsider perspective, who didn’t grow up in the tradition, to claim that they had ownership of it — wow, I don’t know where that comes from,” Chinn says. “Where do you cross the line to where you say, ‘I’ve got this. I’ve got this down’?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The play is set up as a triptych, exploring the aforementioned themes of appropriation and ownership through scenes taken from three imagined moments in the history of pho. The first is a retelling of the dish’s creation story, which is at least partly apocryphal. Chinn’s version focuses on a French aristocrat living in Hanoi during the late 19th century, when the city was the colonial capital of French Indochina. He hires a Vietnamese cook, who has to learn how to prepare pot-au-feu, the French stew that some people believe is the dish that eventually evolved into Vietnamese pho (though this is \u003ca href=\"https://www.splendidtable.org/story/2017/03/06/evolution-of-pho-a-modern-dish-born-of-multicultural-traditions\">widely disputed\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The second scene takes place in 1999 in Ho Chi Minh City, on the eve of President Bill Clinton’s visit — and right as Burger King was about to open the first American burger franchises in Vietnam. It focuses on two Americans visiting a pho cart, never having tried the dish before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, the last scene takes us to a Vietnamese restaurant in today’s rapidly gentrifying Brooklyn — a restaurant that, in a callback to the infamous \u003ci>Bon Appétit\u003c/i> video, refuses to provide any sauce to accompany its pho.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each of the scenes deals with colonialism and the power dynamics that come into play when one culture adapts or borrows from another culture’s cuisine. Each explores questions of what kind of food is considered “fancy” and who profits — and how much they profit — off the sale and popularization of that food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinn, for his part, doesn’t consider himself a “hardliner.” He doesn’t believe there should be any one-size-fits-all rule about who is “allowed” to cook certain types of food. He says he’s more interested in questions than in messages. That’s also why he says he wrote the play as a comedy rather than a straightforward drama.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“I’m a Chinese American writing about Vietnamese themes,” Chinn says. “This play is not about what it means to be Vietnamese. This play is more about the gray areas within these discussions of authorship and cultural ownership.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What he’s hoping is that the play will attract people who don’t typically go to the theater but who do feel invested in these kinds of issues around food culture. After all, he says, food is the one cultural topic that people get uniquely passionate about — to the point that there are some who consider it “hacky” when writers use food as a shorthand for culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Chinn, however, it’s for good reason that food evokes those kinds of primal feelings in people. “It’s something you engage with every day, more than literature or even music. It encompasses things about family and daily needs,” Chinn says. “In lieu of religion, people get very religious about food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Colonialism Is Terrible, But Pho Is Delicious\u003ci> is in previews until Nov. 10 at the Aurora Theatre Company (2081 Addison St., Berkeley). The official opening night is Thursday, Nov. 10 at 8 p.m., and the play runs until Dec. 4. You can \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://tickets.auroratheatre.org/TheatreManager/1/online?event=0\">\u003ci>buy tickets online\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"soldout": {
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"title": "SOLD OUT: Rethinking Housing in America",
"tagline": "A new future for housing",
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