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"slug": "can-the-most-popular-red-wine-in-the-u-s-endure-climate-change",
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"content": "\u003cp>In California’s Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon is king.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bold red wine has made the region world famous, with some bottles retailing at hundreds of dollars. But increasingly severe heat waves are taking a toll on the grape variety, especially in late summer during ripening. As temperatures keep rising, the wine industry is slowly confronting a future where Napa may not be the prime cabernet region it once was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='quest_17385']In the face of climate change, wineries around the world are innovating. New technology is being installed to keep the grapes cool during heat spells. A handful of wineries are going a step further. They’re experimenting with new grapes, ripping out high-value cabernet vines to plant varieties from hotter climates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The goal is to find heat-tolerant grapes that blend well with cabernet, potentially making up for the flavors that cabernet could lack when temperatures get even hotter. While many bottles labeled cabernet are already blended with other grapes in small amounts, winemakers may need more flexibility in the future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We know we have to adapt,” says Avery Heelan, a winemaker at Larkmead Vineyards in Calistoga. “We can’t just pretend that it’s going to go away, because all we see is each year it’s getting more and more extreme.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, blending with other grapes comes with risks. For a U.S. wine to be labeled cabernet, a bottle must contain 75% cabernet grapes or more. Any less, and it’s considered a red blend. Blends typically don’t command the same prices on store shelves as cabernet, especially since consumers are accustomed to picking U.S. wines by the name of the grape. Moving away from cabernet would be a major financial gamble for Napa’s multibillion-dollar wine industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It is a big shift,” says Elisabeth Forrestel, an assistant professor of viticulture and enology at the University of California, Davis. “Without the market changing or demands changing, you can’t convince someone to grow something that doesn’t sell or doesn’t garner the same price.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963904\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963904\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis.png\" alt=\"A young man in a lab with rows of plastic test tubes in front of him.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis.png 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-800x534.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-1020x680.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-160x107.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-768x512.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-1536x1025.png 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-1920x1281.png 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">UC Davis research assistant Jacob Vito crushes cabernet sauvignon grapes from Napa Valley to analyze their chemical compounds. The lab is studying how heat is affecting the grapes. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Charbono, anyone?\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Some grapes growing at Larkmead Vineyards aren’t ones that many American wine drinkers would recognize. Long rows of vines are labeled: touriga nacional, aglianico, charbono and tempranillo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s not a huge market for a lot of these varieties,” says Heelan, walking among the vines on a hot summer afternoon. “We’re really choosing them not from popularity, but for their qualities.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Established more than a century ago, the winery is known for its bottles of cabernet sauvignon. These lesser-known grapes were planted only a few years ago, part of a research vineyard that took the place of cabernet vines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Which most people would probably think is a little crazy, considering it’s 3 acres of perfect cabernet land,” Heelan says. “But certainly with the climate and how dramatically it’s changed over even the last 10 years, we really have to start adjusting.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963905\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963905\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker.png\" alt=\"A white woman with long brown hair stands in the middle of a vineyard.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1306\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker.png 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-800x522.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-1020x666.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-160x104.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-768x502.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-1536x1003.png 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-1920x1254.png 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Winemaker Avery Heelan is growing several rare grape varieties at Larkmead Vineyards in Napa Valley, in the hope that they’ll blend well with cabernet grapes as temperatures get hotter. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The vineyard is already at the hotter northern end of Napa Valley, but the extreme heat in recent years has been a wake-up call. A late-summer heat wave in 2022 hit temperatures just under 120 degrees at the vineyard, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When it gets that hot, the vines, they’re done,” she says. “They’re going to go dormant, and when that happens, they’re not ripening anymore.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13886632']In extreme heat, cabernet grapes can lose their rich color. They also dehydrate, wrinkling like raisins, which produces wines that are sweeter and more alcoholic. Heelan says the grapes that the vineyard is testing could provide an added boost of color or acidity to cabernet, helping balance out the wine when temperatures take their toll.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The experiment has its cost. In addition to the lost revenue from removing cabernet, grapevines take up to five years to produce their first crop, plus several more years for the wines to ferment. Heelan says only then will they start to see how the new grapes are performing. But the goal is to prepare the winery for the future, knowing that heat will likely get worse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Honestly, the more we experiment and learn about how to adapt, I think the wines are just getting better and better,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963906\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963906\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine.png\" alt=\"Red wine is poured into a clear wine glass.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1330\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine.png 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-800x532.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-1020x678.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-160x106.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-768x511.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-1536x1021.png 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-1920x1277.png 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In hotter temperatures, cabernet grapes lose their rich red color and produce sweeter, more alcoholic wines. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Where cabernet is king\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Farther south, Shafer Vineyards sits in the heart of Stags Leap, a Napa wine region that’s known for high-end cabernets. Winemaker Elias Fernandez says the grapes benefit from a cool evening breeze that blows in from San Francisco Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This summer, heat has already been a problem. July was the \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncei.noaa.gov/news/national-climate-202407\">hottest July on record\u003c/a> in California. Fernandez points to a grape cluster where small green grapes are nestled among larger purple ones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This is effects of the heat,” he says. “It’s not maturing, so this is where you lose some fruit.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963907\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1430px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963907\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias.png\" alt=\"A man stands in front of a vinyard, green hills visible in the distance.\" width=\"1430\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias.png 1430w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-800x1119.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-1020x1427.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-160x224.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-768x1074.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-1098x1536.png 1098w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1430px) 100vw, 1430px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Winemaker Elias Fernandez is installing new technology at Shafer Vineyards in Napa Valley to combat heat waves. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The damage isn’t too widespread this year, unlike in 2022. But with summers getting more intense, Fernandez says the winery is looking at technology to help the cabernet vines. They’re currently installing misters, which spray water into the air to cool the temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s a constant mist,” he says. “How many of you have been to a party where they have misters? Doesn’t that feel good? Well, that’s what the vines are feeling.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13917165']Still, using extra water is a challenge in drought-prone California, he says. Plus, the water droplets can concentrate the light on the grapes and burn them, so misters must be run until the sun sets to keep the droplets from collecting. But Fernandez says he’s hoping the misting will keep the cabernet vines producing at the highest level.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I think the first thing we’ll be doing is mitigation, hoping to keep it as the true varietal of Napa Valley,” he says. “That’s what we’re trying to do — is buy time and see what happens with this whole thing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, he’s not considering planting other grape varieties. With wines that are priced at $100 and up, cabernet is central to their business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, it’s hard to think that people are just going to throw cabernet out the door and plant something else,” he says. “I really do. It’s the king of the wines of the world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Wine regions are shifting\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963908\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1402px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963908\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth.png\" alt=\"A white woman wearing round glasses stands in a room, looking serious.\" width=\"1402\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth.png 1402w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-800x1141.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-1020x1455.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-160x228.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-768x1096.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-1077x1536.png 1077w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1402px) 100vw, 1402px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Professor Elisabeth Forrestel is studying how Napa’s wine regions are shifting with climate change. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Elisabeth Forrestel is one person trying to understand the big swings in the temperature. In her lab at UC Davis, her research team is smashing Napa Valley grapes inside plastic bags. They’ll be analyzed at the molecular level to see how they change during the summer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forrestel’s lab is gathering wine grapes from Napa Valley throughout the growing season, along with detailed temperature data, to see how the most crucial compounds for wine are affected by heat. Studies show the average temperature during the last 45 days of the growing season in Napa — when grapes ripen — has \u003ca href=\"https://doi.org/10.1002/joc.8162\">already warmed almost 3 degrees Fahrenheit\u003c/a> from 1958 to 2016. But it’s the intense heat waves that do the most damage to molecules that produce a wine’s color and aroma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When you have these extreme heat events, you can have a lot of impact on the development of that flavor profile,” she says. “If it was just an average change, it would be a lot easier to manage.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='quest_19242']Forrestel is working on updating a central guide for winemaking, known as the \u003ca href=\"https://caes.ucdavis.edu/news/taking-climate-change-vineyards\">Winkler Index\u003c/a>. Developed in the 1940s, it shows the ideal locations to grow different varieties of wine grapes, based on how much heat they receive. Napa Valley was originally indexed for cabernet sauvignon, but this could shift as the climate gets hotter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With cabernet being the \u003ca href=\"https://www.oiv.int/public/medias/5888/en-distribution-of-the-worlds-grapevine-varieties.pdf\">world’s most widely grown wine grape\u003c/a>, cabernet vines are resilient to different temperatures, Forrestel says. It’s a question of whether Napa winemakers may need new strategies to keep it producing at such a high-quality level. Since grapevines last 50 years or more, winemakers are faced with making planting decisions today that will need to withstand a hotter future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some of the paradigms in what you would plant need to shift,” she says. “People need to have different approaches so there can be more resilience and you can have more options.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963909\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3007px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963909\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa.png\" alt=\"A vineyard.\" width=\"3007\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa.png 3007w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-800x532.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-1020x678.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-160x106.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-768x511.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-1536x1022.png 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-2048x1362.png 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-1920x1277.png 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3007px) 100vw, 3007px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To keep producing high-quality cabernets, Napa Valley winemakers may need to blend them with other grapes to balance out the effects of heat. But wines labeled as blends, instead of cabernet, often sell at lower prices. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Would you pay the same for a blend?\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Blending cabernet with other red grapes could be one strategy. But since U.S. regulations require any bottle labeled cabernet to contain 75% cabernet, at some point wineries may be looking at changing their labels to say “red blend.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We have a perception that a blend is not as high quality as getting that high-quality cabernet, and they’re not on the same price point, so it is a big shift,” Forrestel says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The challenge is particular to U.S. winemakers, since many other countries label their wines by region, instead of grape. The famed red wines from Bordeaux in France are already a mix of six grapes, including cabernet, so winemakers have more flexibility. \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/11/05/773097167/climate-change-is-disrupting-centuries-old-methods-of-winemaking-in-france\">Winemakers there have also struggled with heat\u003c/a>, so French authorities recently approved four more red-grape varieties for blending. Since the wines are labeled with Bordeaux, wine drinkers may not even notice the shift.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13963437']Wines in the U.S. are generally labeled by the grape variety, a system that was promoted when the domestic wine industry was growing in prominence decades ago. In an effort to compete with wines from Europe, some thought focusing on the grape variety would demystify wines for consumers and show the quality of American wines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, that system may work against them. Cabernet sauvignon is the most popular red wine in the U.S., according to NielsenIQ. So Forrestel says consumers are also part of the solution by creating demand for wines that are better suited for a hotter climate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Be open,” she says. “Because I think it’s really easy to walk in and buy what you’re used to. And also, trust what you like and not what you’re told to like.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Climate change is affecting our food, and our food is affecting the climate. NPR is dedicating a week to \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/09/06/g-s1-19303/food-climate-solutions\">stories and conversations about the search for solutions\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In California’s Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon is king.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bold red wine has made the region world famous, with some bottles retailing at hundreds of dollars. But increasingly severe heat waves are taking a toll on the grape variety, especially in late summer during ripening. As temperatures keep rising, the wine industry is slowly confronting a future where Napa may not be the prime cabernet region it once was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>In the face of climate change, wineries around the world are innovating. New technology is being installed to keep the grapes cool during heat spells. A handful of wineries are going a step further. They’re experimenting with new grapes, ripping out high-value cabernet vines to plant varieties from hotter climates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The goal is to find heat-tolerant grapes that blend well with cabernet, potentially making up for the flavors that cabernet could lack when temperatures get even hotter. While many bottles labeled cabernet are already blended with other grapes in small amounts, winemakers may need more flexibility in the future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We know we have to adapt,” says Avery Heelan, a winemaker at Larkmead Vineyards in Calistoga. “We can’t just pretend that it’s going to go away, because all we see is each year it’s getting more and more extreme.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, blending with other grapes comes with risks. For a U.S. wine to be labeled cabernet, a bottle must contain 75% cabernet grapes or more. Any less, and it’s considered a red blend. Blends typically don’t command the same prices on store shelves as cabernet, especially since consumers are accustomed to picking U.S. wines by the name of the grape. Moving away from cabernet would be a major financial gamble for Napa’s multibillion-dollar wine industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It is a big shift,” says Elisabeth Forrestel, an assistant professor of viticulture and enology at the University of California, Davis. “Without the market changing or demands changing, you can’t convince someone to grow something that doesn’t sell or doesn’t garner the same price.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963904\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963904\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis.png\" alt=\"A young man in a lab with rows of plastic test tubes in front of him.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis.png 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-800x534.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-1020x680.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-160x107.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-768x512.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-1536x1025.png 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-1920x1281.png 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">UC Davis research assistant Jacob Vito crushes cabernet sauvignon grapes from Napa Valley to analyze their chemical compounds. The lab is studying how heat is affecting the grapes. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Charbono, anyone?\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Some grapes growing at Larkmead Vineyards aren’t ones that many American wine drinkers would recognize. Long rows of vines are labeled: touriga nacional, aglianico, charbono and tempranillo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s not a huge market for a lot of these varieties,” says Heelan, walking among the vines on a hot summer afternoon. “We’re really choosing them not from popularity, but for their qualities.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Established more than a century ago, the winery is known for its bottles of cabernet sauvignon. These lesser-known grapes were planted only a few years ago, part of a research vineyard that took the place of cabernet vines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Which most people would probably think is a little crazy, considering it’s 3 acres of perfect cabernet land,” Heelan says. “But certainly with the climate and how dramatically it’s changed over even the last 10 years, we really have to start adjusting.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963905\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963905\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker.png\" alt=\"A white woman with long brown hair stands in the middle of a vineyard.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1306\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker.png 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-800x522.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-1020x666.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-160x104.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-768x502.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-1536x1003.png 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-1920x1254.png 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Winemaker Avery Heelan is growing several rare grape varieties at Larkmead Vineyards in Napa Valley, in the hope that they’ll blend well with cabernet grapes as temperatures get hotter. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The vineyard is already at the hotter northern end of Napa Valley, but the extreme heat in recent years has been a wake-up call. A late-summer heat wave in 2022 hit temperatures just under 120 degrees at the vineyard, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When it gets that hot, the vines, they’re done,” she says. “They’re going to go dormant, and when that happens, they’re not ripening anymore.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>In extreme heat, cabernet grapes can lose their rich color. They also dehydrate, wrinkling like raisins, which produces wines that are sweeter and more alcoholic. Heelan says the grapes that the vineyard is testing could provide an added boost of color or acidity to cabernet, helping balance out the wine when temperatures take their toll.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The experiment has its cost. In addition to the lost revenue from removing cabernet, grapevines take up to five years to produce their first crop, plus several more years for the wines to ferment. Heelan says only then will they start to see how the new grapes are performing. But the goal is to prepare the winery for the future, knowing that heat will likely get worse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Honestly, the more we experiment and learn about how to adapt, I think the wines are just getting better and better,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963906\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963906\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine.png\" alt=\"Red wine is poured into a clear wine glass.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1330\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine.png 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-800x532.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-1020x678.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-160x106.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-768x511.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-1536x1021.png 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-1920x1277.png 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In hotter temperatures, cabernet grapes lose their rich red color and produce sweeter, more alcoholic wines. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Where cabernet is king\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Farther south, Shafer Vineyards sits in the heart of Stags Leap, a Napa wine region that’s known for high-end cabernets. Winemaker Elias Fernandez says the grapes benefit from a cool evening breeze that blows in from San Francisco Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This summer, heat has already been a problem. July was the \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncei.noaa.gov/news/national-climate-202407\">hottest July on record\u003c/a> in California. Fernandez points to a grape cluster where small green grapes are nestled among larger purple ones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This is effects of the heat,” he says. “It’s not maturing, so this is where you lose some fruit.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963907\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1430px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963907\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias.png\" alt=\"A man stands in front of a vinyard, green hills visible in the distance.\" width=\"1430\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias.png 1430w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-800x1119.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-1020x1427.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-160x224.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-768x1074.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-1098x1536.png 1098w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1430px) 100vw, 1430px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Winemaker Elias Fernandez is installing new technology at Shafer Vineyards in Napa Valley to combat heat waves. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The damage isn’t too widespread this year, unlike in 2022. But with summers getting more intense, Fernandez says the winery is looking at technology to help the cabernet vines. They’re currently installing misters, which spray water into the air to cool the temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s a constant mist,” he says. “How many of you have been to a party where they have misters? Doesn’t that feel good? Well, that’s what the vines are feeling.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Still, using extra water is a challenge in drought-prone California, he says. Plus, the water droplets can concentrate the light on the grapes and burn them, so misters must be run until the sun sets to keep the droplets from collecting. But Fernandez says he’s hoping the misting will keep the cabernet vines producing at the highest level.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I think the first thing we’ll be doing is mitigation, hoping to keep it as the true varietal of Napa Valley,” he says. “That’s what we’re trying to do — is buy time and see what happens with this whole thing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, he’s not considering planting other grape varieties. With wines that are priced at $100 and up, cabernet is central to their business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, it’s hard to think that people are just going to throw cabernet out the door and plant something else,” he says. “I really do. It’s the king of the wines of the world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Wine regions are shifting\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963908\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1402px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963908\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth.png\" alt=\"A white woman wearing round glasses stands in a room, looking serious.\" width=\"1402\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth.png 1402w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-800x1141.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-1020x1455.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-160x228.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-768x1096.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-1077x1536.png 1077w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1402px) 100vw, 1402px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Professor Elisabeth Forrestel is studying how Napa’s wine regions are shifting with climate change. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Elisabeth Forrestel is one person trying to understand the big swings in the temperature. In her lab at UC Davis, her research team is smashing Napa Valley grapes inside plastic bags. They’ll be analyzed at the molecular level to see how they change during the summer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forrestel’s lab is gathering wine grapes from Napa Valley throughout the growing season, along with detailed temperature data, to see how the most crucial compounds for wine are affected by heat. Studies show the average temperature during the last 45 days of the growing season in Napa — when grapes ripen — has \u003ca href=\"https://doi.org/10.1002/joc.8162\">already warmed almost 3 degrees Fahrenheit\u003c/a> from 1958 to 2016. But it’s the intense heat waves that do the most damage to molecules that produce a wine’s color and aroma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When you have these extreme heat events, you can have a lot of impact on the development of that flavor profile,” she says. “If it was just an average change, it would be a lot easier to manage.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Forrestel is working on updating a central guide for winemaking, known as the \u003ca href=\"https://caes.ucdavis.edu/news/taking-climate-change-vineyards\">Winkler Index\u003c/a>. Developed in the 1940s, it shows the ideal locations to grow different varieties of wine grapes, based on how much heat they receive. Napa Valley was originally indexed for cabernet sauvignon, but this could shift as the climate gets hotter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With cabernet being the \u003ca href=\"https://www.oiv.int/public/medias/5888/en-distribution-of-the-worlds-grapevine-varieties.pdf\">world’s most widely grown wine grape\u003c/a>, cabernet vines are resilient to different temperatures, Forrestel says. It’s a question of whether Napa winemakers may need new strategies to keep it producing at such a high-quality level. Since grapevines last 50 years or more, winemakers are faced with making planting decisions today that will need to withstand a hotter future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some of the paradigms in what you would plant need to shift,” she says. “People need to have different approaches so there can be more resilience and you can have more options.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963909\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3007px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963909\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa.png\" alt=\"A vineyard.\" width=\"3007\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa.png 3007w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-800x532.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-1020x678.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-160x106.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-768x511.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-1536x1022.png 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-2048x1362.png 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-1920x1277.png 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3007px) 100vw, 3007px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To keep producing high-quality cabernets, Napa Valley winemakers may need to blend them with other grapes to balance out the effects of heat. But wines labeled as blends, instead of cabernet, often sell at lower prices. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Would you pay the same for a blend?\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Blending cabernet with other red grapes could be one strategy. But since U.S. regulations require any bottle labeled cabernet to contain 75% cabernet, at some point wineries may be looking at changing their labels to say “red blend.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We have a perception that a blend is not as high quality as getting that high-quality cabernet, and they’re not on the same price point, so it is a big shift,” Forrestel says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The challenge is particular to U.S. winemakers, since many other countries label their wines by region, instead of grape. The famed red wines from Bordeaux in France are already a mix of six grapes, including cabernet, so winemakers have more flexibility. \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/11/05/773097167/climate-change-is-disrupting-centuries-old-methods-of-winemaking-in-france\">Winemakers there have also struggled with heat\u003c/a>, so French authorities recently approved four more red-grape varieties for blending. Since the wines are labeled with Bordeaux, wine drinkers may not even notice the shift.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Wines in the U.S. are generally labeled by the grape variety, a system that was promoted when the domestic wine industry was growing in prominence decades ago. In an effort to compete with wines from Europe, some thought focusing on the grape variety would demystify wines for consumers and show the quality of American wines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, that system may work against them. Cabernet sauvignon is the most popular red wine in the U.S., according to NielsenIQ. So Forrestel says consumers are also part of the solution by creating demand for wines that are better suited for a hotter climate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Be open,” she says. “Because I think it’s really easy to walk in and buy what you’re used to. And also, trust what you like and not what you’re told to like.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Climate change is affecting our food, and our food is affecting the climate. NPR is dedicating a week to \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/09/06/g-s1-19303/food-climate-solutions\">stories and conversations about the search for solutions\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>In the heart of San Jose’s Little Portugal, a grocery store the size of a 7-Eleven features a wall of Ports and Vinho Verdes, stacks of garlicky linguiça and cases of imported cheese. But Bacalhau Grill isn’t just a specialty food market. If you peek over the shelves, you’ll see a full-fledged restaurant dining room with tables covered with checkered tablecloths. On a recent Friday afternoon, one diner was making quick work of a plate of picanha and fries while a couple split a pizza over a bottle of wine. A bakery display case was filled with flaky pastel de nata and Brazilian-style empanadas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s the most complete [Portuguese] market in California,” says owner Mauricio da Silva.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bacalhau Grill has been feeding the city’s Portuguese families since 1945, when the original owners, John and Lucile Rose, opened it under the name Trade Rite Market. The Brazilian component to the store wouldn’t be added until the late 90s. Over the years, the shop has also come to function as a cherished gathering place for the South Bay’s Portuguese and Brazilian communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13904835']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>These days, San Jose is known as \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904835/san-jose-immigrant-food\">one of the Bay Area’s most vibrant immigrant hubs\u003c/a>, with locally famous Vietnamese, Mexican and Ethiopian food scenes. In comparison, Little Portugal — and the fact that San Jose is home to one of the largest and oldest Portuguese communities on the West Coast — flies relatively under the radar. Davide Vieira from San Jose’s nonprofit \u003ca href=\"https://portuguesecenter.org/about/\">Portuguese Organization for Social Services and Opportunities\u003c/a> explains that California’s earliest Portuguese immigrants jumped off whaling ships and landed in San Francisco, lured by the Gold Rush, as early as the 1830s. The opening of the Five Wounds Portuguese National Parish in East San Jose in 1919 served as an anchor for the local Portuguese community. Around it, Little Portugal flourished with businesses like Trade Rite Market, which catered to some of San Jose’s earliest Portuguese families.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s one of the lone existing businesses from that era in Little Portugal,” Vieira says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963893\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963893\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Bacalhaus-Storefront.jpg\" alt='Exterior facade of a restaurant and market. The sign above reads \"Bacalhau Grill.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Bacalhaus-Storefront.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Bacalhaus-Storefront-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Bacalhaus-Storefront-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Bacalhaus-Storefront-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Bacalhaus-Storefront-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Bacalhaus-Storefront-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Bacalhaus-Storefront-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The market’s original name was Trade Rite Market. It didn’t start selling Brazilian foods until the late 1990s. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The store was eventually passed down to John and Lucile’s son, Harold Vieira, and his wife Elaine. Since then, it has transferred ownership several times. Up until the ’80s, it was strictly a grocery store. The restaurant aspect, along with the name “Bacalhau Grill,” didn’t come about until after the business was sold out of the family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant is probably best known for its namesake dish, bacalhau, a salt cod many consider to be the national dish of Portugal. At Bacalhau Grill, you can select a precise cut of the fish at the butcher counter for use in home cooking, or enjoy it tossed with onions, garlic and peppers or coated in a bechamel sauce. The salting and drying procedure maintains the cod’s tender flakiness while concentrating its fishy flavor. The shop also operates a bakery where they make pastel de nata — bite-size tarts filled with caramelized egg custard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our shoppers are mostly Brazilian and Portuguese,” says restaurant manager Sidinaldo Silva. “A lot of people come for the market, but stop by first for lunch or dinner.” The menu is evenly split between Portuguese and Brazilian dishes, which share many similarities due to Portugal’s lengthy colonization of Brazil. Sidinaldo explains that Bacalhau Grill’s goal is to offer a more affordable dining experience compared to the area’s upscale Portuguese restaurants and Brazilian steakhouses. All of the food feels very much like you’re eating at someone’s house — it’s all served homestyle, with sides like rice and beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963890\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963890\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Chicken-and-cheese-pastel.jpg\" alt=\"Cheesy fried pastry on checkered paper.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Chicken-and-cheese-pastel.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Chicken-and-cheese-pastel-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Chicken-and-cheese-pastel-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Chicken-and-cheese-pastel-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Chicken-and-cheese-pastel-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Chicken-and-cheese-pastel-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Chicken-and-cheese-pastel-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The chicken and cheese pastel is one of the restaurant’s popular Brazilian pastries. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While you won’t see any servers walking around with a towering steak skewer, the restaurant’s Brazilian menu does revolve around picanha, a cut of sirloin with a fat cap. “We’re importing a lot of steak from Brazil. There’s so many Brazilian steakhouses around — we’re in the middle,” Sidinaldo says. “You can have a great steak at a fair price.” For a complete traditional meal, order the Brazilian Experience platter, which comes with picanha, toscana sausage, grilled cheese curds, fried yucca, fried banana and farofa. Another highlight is the chicken and cheese pasteles, a crackly pastry with an exterior similar to a bubbly fried wonton. Pair your meal with a can of Guaraná Antarctica, a popular Brazilian soda made from the seeds of the tropical guaraná fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13961214,arts_13958172']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>Bacalhau Grill’s newest venture is the Brazilian pizzeria they opened inside the restaurant in February. The pizzas are topped with ingredients from Brazil like calabresa sausage and catupiry, a Brazilian processed cheese with a consistency similar to cream cheese. Another typical Brazilian pizza comes dressed up with corn, peas, palm hearts, oregano and olives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The shop also makes traditional fresh tropical juices, the most unique of which is made from cashew fruit. Its nutty flavor tastes a bit like a cross between bell pepper and mango.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If Little Portugal is a monument to the history of San Jose’s Portuguese community, then Bacalhau Grill serves as the neighborhood’s food-centric hub. It provides the flavors of home and a familiar place to sit down for a meal, for both recent immigrants and families who have been in the city for generations. And it also invites those who are unfamiliar with the cuisine to explore and try something new.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We aren’t only cooking for Portuguese and Brazilian people,” says Sidinaldo. “Everybody loves this food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bacalhaugrillsj.com/home\">\u003ci>Bacalhau Grill \u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>(1555 Alum Rock Avenue, San Jose) is open daily 9 a.m to 9 p.m. The kitchen opens at 11 a.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In the heart of San Jose’s Little Portugal, a grocery store the size of a 7-Eleven features a wall of Ports and Vinho Verdes, stacks of garlicky linguiça and cases of imported cheese. But Bacalhau Grill isn’t just a specialty food market. If you peek over the shelves, you’ll see a full-fledged restaurant dining room with tables covered with checkered tablecloths. On a recent Friday afternoon, one diner was making quick work of a plate of picanha and fries while a couple split a pizza over a bottle of wine. A bakery display case was filled with flaky pastel de nata and Brazilian-style empanadas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s the most complete [Portuguese] market in California,” says owner Mauricio da Silva.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bacalhau Grill has been feeding the city’s Portuguese families since 1945, when the original owners, John and Lucile Rose, opened it under the name Trade Rite Market. The Brazilian component to the store wouldn’t be added until the late 90s. Over the years, the shop has also come to function as a cherished gathering place for the South Bay’s Portuguese and Brazilian communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>These days, San Jose is known as \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904835/san-jose-immigrant-food\">one of the Bay Area’s most vibrant immigrant hubs\u003c/a>, with locally famous Vietnamese, Mexican and Ethiopian food scenes. In comparison, Little Portugal — and the fact that San Jose is home to one of the largest and oldest Portuguese communities on the West Coast — flies relatively under the radar. Davide Vieira from San Jose’s nonprofit \u003ca href=\"https://portuguesecenter.org/about/\">Portuguese Organization for Social Services and Opportunities\u003c/a> explains that California’s earliest Portuguese immigrants jumped off whaling ships and landed in San Francisco, lured by the Gold Rush, as early as the 1830s. The opening of the Five Wounds Portuguese National Parish in East San Jose in 1919 served as an anchor for the local Portuguese community. Around it, Little Portugal flourished with businesses like Trade Rite Market, which catered to some of San Jose’s earliest Portuguese families.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s one of the lone existing businesses from that era in Little Portugal,” Vieira says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963893\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963893\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Bacalhaus-Storefront.jpg\" alt='Exterior facade of a restaurant and market. The sign above reads \"Bacalhau Grill.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Bacalhaus-Storefront.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Bacalhaus-Storefront-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Bacalhaus-Storefront-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Bacalhaus-Storefront-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Bacalhaus-Storefront-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Bacalhaus-Storefront-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Bacalhaus-Storefront-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The market’s original name was Trade Rite Market. It didn’t start selling Brazilian foods until the late 1990s. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The store was eventually passed down to John and Lucile’s son, Harold Vieira, and his wife Elaine. Since then, it has transferred ownership several times. Up until the ’80s, it was strictly a grocery store. The restaurant aspect, along with the name “Bacalhau Grill,” didn’t come about until after the business was sold out of the family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant is probably best known for its namesake dish, bacalhau, a salt cod many consider to be the national dish of Portugal. At Bacalhau Grill, you can select a precise cut of the fish at the butcher counter for use in home cooking, or enjoy it tossed with onions, garlic and peppers or coated in a bechamel sauce. The salting and drying procedure maintains the cod’s tender flakiness while concentrating its fishy flavor. The shop also operates a bakery where they make pastel de nata — bite-size tarts filled with caramelized egg custard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our shoppers are mostly Brazilian and Portuguese,” says restaurant manager Sidinaldo Silva. “A lot of people come for the market, but stop by first for lunch or dinner.” The menu is evenly split between Portuguese and Brazilian dishes, which share many similarities due to Portugal’s lengthy colonization of Brazil. Sidinaldo explains that Bacalhau Grill’s goal is to offer a more affordable dining experience compared to the area’s upscale Portuguese restaurants and Brazilian steakhouses. All of the food feels very much like you’re eating at someone’s house — it’s all served homestyle, with sides like rice and beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963890\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963890\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Chicken-and-cheese-pastel.jpg\" alt=\"Cheesy fried pastry on checkered paper.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Chicken-and-cheese-pastel.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Chicken-and-cheese-pastel-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Chicken-and-cheese-pastel-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Chicken-and-cheese-pastel-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Chicken-and-cheese-pastel-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Chicken-and-cheese-pastel-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Chicken-and-cheese-pastel-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The chicken and cheese pastel is one of the restaurant’s popular Brazilian pastries. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While you won’t see any servers walking around with a towering steak skewer, the restaurant’s Brazilian menu does revolve around picanha, a cut of sirloin with a fat cap. “We’re importing a lot of steak from Brazil. There’s so many Brazilian steakhouses around — we’re in the middle,” Sidinaldo says. “You can have a great steak at a fair price.” For a complete traditional meal, order the Brazilian Experience platter, which comes with picanha, toscana sausage, grilled cheese curds, fried yucca, fried banana and farofa. Another highlight is the chicken and cheese pasteles, a crackly pastry with an exterior similar to a bubbly fried wonton. Pair your meal with a can of Guaraná Antarctica, a popular Brazilian soda made from the seeds of the tropical guaraná fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>Bacalhau Grill’s newest venture is the Brazilian pizzeria they opened inside the restaurant in February. The pizzas are topped with ingredients from Brazil like calabresa sausage and catupiry, a Brazilian processed cheese with a consistency similar to cream cheese. Another typical Brazilian pizza comes dressed up with corn, peas, palm hearts, oregano and olives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The shop also makes traditional fresh tropical juices, the most unique of which is made from cashew fruit. Its nutty flavor tastes a bit like a cross between bell pepper and mango.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If Little Portugal is a monument to the history of San Jose’s Portuguese community, then Bacalhau Grill serves as the neighborhood’s food-centric hub. It provides the flavors of home and a familiar place to sit down for a meal, for both recent immigrants and families who have been in the city for generations. And it also invites those who are unfamiliar with the cuisine to explore and try something new.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We aren’t only cooking for Portuguese and Brazilian people,” says Sidinaldo. “Everybody loves this food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bacalhaugrillsj.com/home\">\u003ci>Bacalhau Grill \u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>(1555 Alum Rock Avenue, San Jose) is open daily 9 a.m to 9 p.m. The kitchen opens at 11 a.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963836\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963836\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men eating tacos and tortas inside a dimly lit restaurant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Tacos El Rulas’ new brick-and-mortar taqueria, everything — from the tortas to the dining room — is uncommonly big. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The thing to know about Richmond’s newest late-night taqueria, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tacoselrulas/?hl=en\">Tacos El Rulas\u003c/a>, is that everything about it is big.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Start with the space itself, which is, in a word, cavernous. Located on the southern edge of Richmond’s \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/a-richmond-taco-crawl-2-1/\">23rd Street taco corridor\u003c/a>, it’s a high-ceilinged barn of a building that used to house a Mexican grocery store. Every square inch of wall space is covered with colorful blinking lights, neon signs (“Save Water, Drink Micheladas”), Mexican flags and larger-than-life murals depicting Selena, Jenni Rivera and other Mexican American musical icons. At around 9:30 on a Wednesday night, Colombian salsa music was blasting over the speakers while a group of coworkers threw back a $100 round of tequila shots served atop a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C_bc6q4yf6D/?hl=en\">miniature combi bus lit up with sparklers\u003c/a>. The overall vibe was somewhere between rowdy cafeteria and cool, dimly neon-lit nightclub.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In short, it might not be the best place to visit if you’re trying to avoid overstimulation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Veteran East Bay taco eaters may recall that El Rulas \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13931115/tacos-el-rulas-richmond-taco-truck-alambre-papa-loca-instagram-food-influencer\">started out as a taco truck\u003c/a> — which currently sits idle in its old spot in the restaurant’s parking lot. The truck was popular in part because of its block-party-meets-backyard-barbecue atmosphere, perfuming the neighborhood with the smell of charred meat late into the night. Its success was also largely a product of social media: Every item on the menu seemed specifically engineered to go viral on Instagram, from the red-tinged, dripping-wet quesabirria tacos to the monstrous (and since discontinued) three-foot-long burritos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the new brick-and-mortar Tacos El Rulas, too, much of the food is comically oversized — and all of it is available until midnight every night. We started with one of the restaurant’s Instagram hits, the papas locas, a.k.a. the Mexican American answer to a loaded baked potato, except that El Rulas’ version comes pre-smashed, sans skin, in an aluminum tray. It comes topped with your choice of protein (I recommend the supremely well-seasoned al pastor), butter, bacon, more butter, two big dollops of guacamole and a metric ton of stretchy melted cheese. Order this with a side of handmade tortillas to scoop it all up, and the dish is hearty enough to feed two or three hungry diners all by itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963838\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963838\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas2.jpg\" alt='Exterior of a restaurant bathed in neon light at nighttime. The sign above reads, \"Tacos El Rulas.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The longtime taco truck has taken over a cavernous space on the southern edge of Richmond’s 23rd Street taco corridor. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The El Rulas taco truck’s \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2021/2/11/22275500/tacos-el-rulas-truck-berkeley-quesabirria-torta-cubana-handmade-tortillas\">first claim to fame\u003c/a>, long before it became a darling of Bay Area food influencers, was that it sold some of the biggest and tastiest tortas in our region. The restaurant makes a whopping 18 different varieties. And to this day, one of the most delicious things on the menu, pound for pound, is the torta Cubana. This is a sandwich the literal size of a football, layered so thick with meat that we practically had to unhinge our jaws in order to take a bite. The funny thing about El Rulas’ Cubana is that they seem to make it a little bit differently every time I order it, depending on what they have available in the kitchen. The most recent edition was crammed to overflowing with ham, four or five fried beef cutlets, a fried egg and stretchy mozzarella cheese — and no detectable vegetable matter whatsoever. (Other times, the sandwich has included some combination of lettuce, ham, chorizo and queso fresco.) Regardless: It’s a spectacular sandwich, especially after we doused it with some red salsa from the self-serve salsa station. And we still couldn’t finish even half.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13963437,arts_13958926,arts_13958466']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>The closest thing to a normally-portioned dish that we ordered was the ribeye tacos. Reasonable people might quibble over whether they’re worth the $6-a-taco price tag, but the thick cubes of steak were as buttery and tender as we could have hoped.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If there’s a downside to Tacos El Rulas, it’s that the place has been so infected by the social media brain worm that some of the offerings veer a little bit too close to \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13936325/social-media-biggest-pupusas-burritos-instagram-tiktok-latinextravagant-bay-area\">stunt food territory\u003c/a>. The menu is loaded with luxe upgrades that aren’t really necessary for you to have a good experience — though I’ll admit that ribeye papas locas \u003ci>do \u003c/i>sound pretty great.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My advice? Come with a group that likes to share, because you’re going to want to sample a few items. A solo diner can really only handle one of El Rulas’ special, over-the-top creations — and then you’re going to be eating one dish for a solid 40 minutes, and you still probably won’t finish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On weekend nights, the restaurant tends to fill up with the party crowd. The lines get long, and things can get a little bit chaotic. Late on a random weeknight, though? It’s a lot of families with kids, and coworkers stopping by for a drink and a meal at the end of their shift. Neon lights, gargantuan sandwiches and sensory overload notwithstanding, it’s actually a pretty chill place to grab a bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tacoselrulas/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Tacos El Rulas\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 11 a.m.–midnight daily at 232 23rd St. in Richmond. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Tacos El Rulas serves the East Bay’s largest tortas and most decadent loaded baked potatoes. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963836\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963836\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men eating tacos and tortas inside a dimly lit restaurant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Tacos El Rulas’ new brick-and-mortar taqueria, everything — from the tortas to the dining room — is uncommonly big. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The thing to know about Richmond’s newest late-night taqueria, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tacoselrulas/?hl=en\">Tacos El Rulas\u003c/a>, is that everything about it is big.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Start with the space itself, which is, in a word, cavernous. Located on the southern edge of Richmond’s \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/a-richmond-taco-crawl-2-1/\">23rd Street taco corridor\u003c/a>, it’s a high-ceilinged barn of a building that used to house a Mexican grocery store. Every square inch of wall space is covered with colorful blinking lights, neon signs (“Save Water, Drink Micheladas”), Mexican flags and larger-than-life murals depicting Selena, Jenni Rivera and other Mexican American musical icons. At around 9:30 on a Wednesday night, Colombian salsa music was blasting over the speakers while a group of coworkers threw back a $100 round of tequila shots served atop a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C_bc6q4yf6D/?hl=en\">miniature combi bus lit up with sparklers\u003c/a>. The overall vibe was somewhere between rowdy cafeteria and cool, dimly neon-lit nightclub.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In short, it might not be the best place to visit if you’re trying to avoid overstimulation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Veteran East Bay taco eaters may recall that El Rulas \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13931115/tacos-el-rulas-richmond-taco-truck-alambre-papa-loca-instagram-food-influencer\">started out as a taco truck\u003c/a> — which currently sits idle in its old spot in the restaurant’s parking lot. The truck was popular in part because of its block-party-meets-backyard-barbecue atmosphere, perfuming the neighborhood with the smell of charred meat late into the night. Its success was also largely a product of social media: Every item on the menu seemed specifically engineered to go viral on Instagram, from the red-tinged, dripping-wet quesabirria tacos to the monstrous (and since discontinued) three-foot-long burritos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the new brick-and-mortar Tacos El Rulas, too, much of the food is comically oversized — and all of it is available until midnight every night. We started with one of the restaurant’s Instagram hits, the papas locas, a.k.a. the Mexican American answer to a loaded baked potato, except that El Rulas’ version comes pre-smashed, sans skin, in an aluminum tray. It comes topped with your choice of protein (I recommend the supremely well-seasoned al pastor), butter, bacon, more butter, two big dollops of guacamole and a metric ton of stretchy melted cheese. Order this with a side of handmade tortillas to scoop it all up, and the dish is hearty enough to feed two or three hungry diners all by itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963838\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963838\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas2.jpg\" alt='Exterior of a restaurant bathed in neon light at nighttime. The sign above reads, \"Tacos El Rulas.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/El-Rulas2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The longtime taco truck has taken over a cavernous space on the southern edge of Richmond’s 23rd Street taco corridor. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The El Rulas taco truck’s \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2021/2/11/22275500/tacos-el-rulas-truck-berkeley-quesabirria-torta-cubana-handmade-tortillas\">first claim to fame\u003c/a>, long before it became a darling of Bay Area food influencers, was that it sold some of the biggest and tastiest tortas in our region. The restaurant makes a whopping 18 different varieties. And to this day, one of the most delicious things on the menu, pound for pound, is the torta Cubana. This is a sandwich the literal size of a football, layered so thick with meat that we practically had to unhinge our jaws in order to take a bite. The funny thing about El Rulas’ Cubana is that they seem to make it a little bit differently every time I order it, depending on what they have available in the kitchen. The most recent edition was crammed to overflowing with ham, four or five fried beef cutlets, a fried egg and stretchy mozzarella cheese — and no detectable vegetable matter whatsoever. (Other times, the sandwich has included some combination of lettuce, ham, chorizo and queso fresco.) Regardless: It’s a spectacular sandwich, especially after we doused it with some red salsa from the self-serve salsa station. And we still couldn’t finish even half.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>The closest thing to a normally-portioned dish that we ordered was the ribeye tacos. Reasonable people might quibble over whether they’re worth the $6-a-taco price tag, but the thick cubes of steak were as buttery and tender as we could have hoped.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If there’s a downside to Tacos El Rulas, it’s that the place has been so infected by the social media brain worm that some of the offerings veer a little bit too close to \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13936325/social-media-biggest-pupusas-burritos-instagram-tiktok-latinextravagant-bay-area\">stunt food territory\u003c/a>. The menu is loaded with luxe upgrades that aren’t really necessary for you to have a good experience — though I’ll admit that ribeye papas locas \u003ci>do \u003c/i>sound pretty great.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My advice? Come with a group that likes to share, because you’re going to want to sample a few items. A solo diner can really only handle one of El Rulas’ special, over-the-top creations — and then you’re going to be eating one dish for a solid 40 minutes, and you still probably won’t finish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On weekend nights, the restaurant tends to fill up with the party crowd. The lines get long, and things can get a little bit chaotic. Late on a random weeknight, though? It’s a lot of families with kids, and coworkers stopping by for a drink and a meal at the end of their shift. Neon lights, gargantuan sandwiches and sensory overload notwithstanding, it’s actually a pretty chill place to grab a bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tacoselrulas/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Tacos El Rulas\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 11 a.m.–midnight daily at 232 23rd St. in Richmond. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "oakland-bloom-open-test-kitchen-incubator-restaurant-understory",
"title": "An Immigrant-Focused Kitchen Incubator Opens a Restaurant in Oakland",
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"headTitle": "An Immigrant-Focused Kitchen Incubator Opens a Restaurant in Oakland | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>Oakland’s newest restaurant features a rotating lineup of mostly immigrant and refugee chefs of color. It has a cafe program whose mission is to make specialty coffee more fun and accessible to marginalized communities. And it’s one of the only places in the Bay Area where an adventurous eater can snag vegan Nigerian and Palestinian Cuban fusion dishes on the regular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/otk_eats/?hl=en\">Open Test Kitchen\u003c/a>, or OTK, also isn’t exactly a traditional restaurant. Rather, it’s an expansion on the nonprofit \u003ca href=\"https://oaklandbloom.org/\">Oakland Bloom’s\u003c/a> long-standing Open Test Kitchen incubator program, which has trained dozens of immigrant, refugee and working-class chefs of color over the past 10 years. Starting with a relaunch party on Saturday, Sept. 7, at the nonprofit’s 8th Street kitchen space in Oakland, the incubator will enter a new phase — as a full-fledged restaurant staffed by participants in the training program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, 528 8th St. was recently home to \u003ci>another\u003c/i> prominent social justice–oriented restaurant, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/understoryoakland/\">Understory\u003c/a>, a worker-owned spot that operated \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13903133/oakland-bloom-understory-primas-corner-asukar-cuban-palestinian-pop-up\">in partnership with Oakland Bloom’s incubator program\u003c/a> and even won a James Beard Award in 2022 for its \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/understory-bay-area-radical-restaurant-17314790.php\">radical, worker-friendly business model\u003c/a>. In May, however, Understory \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/understoryoakland/p/C7VB5Esy4fH/?img_index=1\">announced that it was closing\u003c/a>, and launched a \u003ca href=\"https://www.gofundme.com/f/support-understory-workers-in-transition\">fundraiser\u003c/a> to work toward eventually rebuilding the business at a new location.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Diana Wu, Oakland Bloom’s executive director, says that when the nonprofit opened up the 8th Street kitchen space in 2020, Understory was “our first iteration of really thinking about alternative food business models.” During those first few years, Oakland Bloom’s Open Test Kitchen incubator program and Understory \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13903133/oakland-bloom-understory-primas-corner-asukar-cuban-palestinian-pop-up\">operated in parallel\u003c/a>: Understory’s worker-owners helped train the kitchen incubator’s aspiring chefs, and then those trainees would take turns holding pop-ups at the restaurant, usually on Saturday nights.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963734\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963734\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/azucar-fusion.jpg\" alt=\"A tostone slider on a plate.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/azucar-fusion.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/azucar-fusion-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/azucar-fusion-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/azucar-fusion-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/azucar-fusion-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/azucar-fusion-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/azucar-fusion-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Asúkar’s Palestian Cuban fusion dishes will be one of the featured cusines. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Oakland Bloom)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Wu didn’t elaborate on the reason for Understory’s sudden departure, but said it made sense to her that a collective-owned restaurant with a strong identity would want to move into a space that is “wholly their own.” For Oakland Bloom, however, the transition provided an opportunity to rethink its training program’s relationship to the more public-facing restaurant dining room. What would it look like if the Open Test Kitchen program itself operated the restaurant, not just on Saturdays but throughout the week? “I think that’s what is exciting for me, just seeing how Open Test Kitchen is an umbrella under which different chefs can take off and experiment and really showcase their work,” Wu says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And so, after taking the summer off to think it through, Oakland Bloom will relaunch the new restaurant version of Open Test Kitchen this Saturday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13903133,arts_13960933,news_11988111']\u003c/span>Which isn’t to say that OTK will be a direct replacement for Understory. Rather than a single restaurant concept with one unified menu, the Open Test Kitchen restaurant is still more of a cobbled-together patchwork of distinct food businesses — so, depending on what time or which day of the week a customer comes, they may find a completely different cuisine on the menu. Sitalbanat Muktari, one of the Open Test Kitchen chefs, likened it to a smaller-scale version of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13895067/la-cocina-municipal-marketplace-food-hall-opening-tenderloin\">food hall\u003c/a> that San Francisco’s La Cocina kitchen incubator ran in the Tenderloin until last fall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s like a mini public market, but because the place isn’t large enough, you’re not going to find all the chefs there at the same time,” Muktari says. “Hopefully in the future, we can get a bigger space.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the month of September, Muktari’s Northern Nigerian vegan food business, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thathausavegan/\">That Hausa Vegan\u003c/a>, will serve brunch on Sundays and dinner on Thursdays and Fridays, during which time customers will find things like grilled oyster mushroom suya and savory Nigerian hand pies on the menu. Other nights, Palestinian Cuban pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/palestinian_cuban_fusion/?hl=en\">Asúkar\u003c/a> will serve fusion dishes like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cxjo-eZLQyZ/?hl=en\">kufta tostone sliders\u003c/a>. And the coffee pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/cafeconcarino_oak/\">Café con Cariño\u003c/a> will operate a daily cafe, collaborating with other Open Test Kitchen chefs to offer multicultural lunch options — \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/primascorner/\">vegan Cuban dishes\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/rufiscacao/\">Oaxacan tamales\u003c/a> to start out. Meanwhile, Saturday nights will be reserved for special events and rotating pop-ups featuring some of the incubator’s \u003ca href=\"https://oaklandbloom.org/chef-stories/\">other vendors\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963735\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963735\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/cafe-con-carino.jpg\" alt=\"A coffee shop owner in a face mask poses for a portrait behind the counter.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/cafe-con-carino.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/cafe-con-carino-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/cafe-con-carino-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/cafe-con-carino-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/cafe-con-carino-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/cafe-con-carino-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/cafe-con-carino-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Café con Cariño’s Claudia Luz Suarez will run a coffee shop in the space in the mornings. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Oakland Bloom)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Saturday’s launch party will spotlight several of those cuisines, with That Hausa Vegan, Asúkar and Café con Cariño providing the food and drink. Even more importantly, though, the Oakland Bloom incubator’s chefs hope to reestablish the restaurant as a real community hub. One of the chefs in the incubator program will perform a ceremonial blessing and limpia on the space. There will also be dancing, a DJ, a poetry reading and a community market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“All of a sudden, this place that people really love [closed], and it’s like, okay, we’re all going through this transition. There’s also just a lot happening in the world, and our communities are really hurting,” says Café con Cariño co-founder Claudia Luz Suarez, who is also Oakland Bloom’s program director.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We wanted to create an opening event that was rooted in really coming together and being intentional about what it means to step into a new era,” Suarez says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C-wB85HyLeq/?img_index=1\">\u003ci>Open Test Kitchen’s launch party\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will be on Saturday, Sept. 7, 11 a.m.–4 p.m. at 528 8th St. in Oakland. Moving forward, the restaurant will be open for cafe hours Wednesday through Friday 8 a.m.–2 p.m., for dinner Wednesday–Saturday from 5–9 p.m., and Saturday–Sunday for weekend brunch 11 a.m.–3 p.m. Check the \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oaklandbloom/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Oakland Bloom\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> and \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/otk_eats/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Open Test Kitchen\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> social media pages for updates on the restaurant’s weekly schedule.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "An Immigrant-Focused Kitchen Incubator Opens a Restaurant in Oakland | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Oakland’s newest restaurant features a rotating lineup of mostly immigrant and refugee chefs of color. It has a cafe program whose mission is to make specialty coffee more fun and accessible to marginalized communities. And it’s one of the only places in the Bay Area where an adventurous eater can snag vegan Nigerian and Palestinian Cuban fusion dishes on the regular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/otk_eats/?hl=en\">Open Test Kitchen\u003c/a>, or OTK, also isn’t exactly a traditional restaurant. Rather, it’s an expansion on the nonprofit \u003ca href=\"https://oaklandbloom.org/\">Oakland Bloom’s\u003c/a> long-standing Open Test Kitchen incubator program, which has trained dozens of immigrant, refugee and working-class chefs of color over the past 10 years. Starting with a relaunch party on Saturday, Sept. 7, at the nonprofit’s 8th Street kitchen space in Oakland, the incubator will enter a new phase — as a full-fledged restaurant staffed by participants in the training program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, 528 8th St. was recently home to \u003ci>another\u003c/i> prominent social justice–oriented restaurant, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/understoryoakland/\">Understory\u003c/a>, a worker-owned spot that operated \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13903133/oakland-bloom-understory-primas-corner-asukar-cuban-palestinian-pop-up\">in partnership with Oakland Bloom’s incubator program\u003c/a> and even won a James Beard Award in 2022 for its \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/understory-bay-area-radical-restaurant-17314790.php\">radical, worker-friendly business model\u003c/a>. In May, however, Understory \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/understoryoakland/p/C7VB5Esy4fH/?img_index=1\">announced that it was closing\u003c/a>, and launched a \u003ca href=\"https://www.gofundme.com/f/support-understory-workers-in-transition\">fundraiser\u003c/a> to work toward eventually rebuilding the business at a new location.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Diana Wu, Oakland Bloom’s executive director, says that when the nonprofit opened up the 8th Street kitchen space in 2020, Understory was “our first iteration of really thinking about alternative food business models.” During those first few years, Oakland Bloom’s Open Test Kitchen incubator program and Understory \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13903133/oakland-bloom-understory-primas-corner-asukar-cuban-palestinian-pop-up\">operated in parallel\u003c/a>: Understory’s worker-owners helped train the kitchen incubator’s aspiring chefs, and then those trainees would take turns holding pop-ups at the restaurant, usually on Saturday nights.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963734\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963734\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/azucar-fusion.jpg\" alt=\"A tostone slider on a plate.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/azucar-fusion.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/azucar-fusion-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/azucar-fusion-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/azucar-fusion-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/azucar-fusion-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/azucar-fusion-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/azucar-fusion-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Asúkar’s Palestian Cuban fusion dishes will be one of the featured cusines. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Oakland Bloom)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Wu didn’t elaborate on the reason for Understory’s sudden departure, but said it made sense to her that a collective-owned restaurant with a strong identity would want to move into a space that is “wholly their own.” For Oakland Bloom, however, the transition provided an opportunity to rethink its training program’s relationship to the more public-facing restaurant dining room. What would it look like if the Open Test Kitchen program itself operated the restaurant, not just on Saturdays but throughout the week? “I think that’s what is exciting for me, just seeing how Open Test Kitchen is an umbrella under which different chefs can take off and experiment and really showcase their work,” Wu says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And so, after taking the summer off to think it through, Oakland Bloom will relaunch the new restaurant version of Open Test Kitchen this Saturday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Which isn’t to say that OTK will be a direct replacement for Understory. Rather than a single restaurant concept with one unified menu, the Open Test Kitchen restaurant is still more of a cobbled-together patchwork of distinct food businesses — so, depending on what time or which day of the week a customer comes, they may find a completely different cuisine on the menu. Sitalbanat Muktari, one of the Open Test Kitchen chefs, likened it to a smaller-scale version of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13895067/la-cocina-municipal-marketplace-food-hall-opening-tenderloin\">food hall\u003c/a> that San Francisco’s La Cocina kitchen incubator ran in the Tenderloin until last fall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s like a mini public market, but because the place isn’t large enough, you’re not going to find all the chefs there at the same time,” Muktari says. “Hopefully in the future, we can get a bigger space.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the month of September, Muktari’s Northern Nigerian vegan food business, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thathausavegan/\">That Hausa Vegan\u003c/a>, will serve brunch on Sundays and dinner on Thursdays and Fridays, during which time customers will find things like grilled oyster mushroom suya and savory Nigerian hand pies on the menu. Other nights, Palestinian Cuban pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/palestinian_cuban_fusion/?hl=en\">Asúkar\u003c/a> will serve fusion dishes like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cxjo-eZLQyZ/?hl=en\">kufta tostone sliders\u003c/a>. And the coffee pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/cafeconcarino_oak/\">Café con Cariño\u003c/a> will operate a daily cafe, collaborating with other Open Test Kitchen chefs to offer multicultural lunch options — \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/primascorner/\">vegan Cuban dishes\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/rufiscacao/\">Oaxacan tamales\u003c/a> to start out. Meanwhile, Saturday nights will be reserved for special events and rotating pop-ups featuring some of the incubator’s \u003ca href=\"https://oaklandbloom.org/chef-stories/\">other vendors\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963735\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963735\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/cafe-con-carino.jpg\" alt=\"A coffee shop owner in a face mask poses for a portrait behind the counter.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/cafe-con-carino.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/cafe-con-carino-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/cafe-con-carino-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/cafe-con-carino-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/cafe-con-carino-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/cafe-con-carino-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/cafe-con-carino-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Café con Cariño’s Claudia Luz Suarez will run a coffee shop in the space in the mornings. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Oakland Bloom)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Saturday’s launch party will spotlight several of those cuisines, with That Hausa Vegan, Asúkar and Café con Cariño providing the food and drink. Even more importantly, though, the Oakland Bloom incubator’s chefs hope to reestablish the restaurant as a real community hub. One of the chefs in the incubator program will perform a ceremonial blessing and limpia on the space. There will also be dancing, a DJ, a poetry reading and a community market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“All of a sudden, this place that people really love [closed], and it’s like, okay, we’re all going through this transition. There’s also just a lot happening in the world, and our communities are really hurting,” says Café con Cariño co-founder Claudia Luz Suarez, who is also Oakland Bloom’s program director.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We wanted to create an opening event that was rooted in really coming together and being intentional about what it means to step into a new era,” Suarez says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C-wB85HyLeq/?img_index=1\">\u003ci>Open Test Kitchen’s launch party\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will be on Saturday, Sept. 7, 11 a.m.–4 p.m. at 528 8th St. in Oakland. Moving forward, the restaurant will be open for cafe hours Wednesday through Friday 8 a.m.–2 p.m., for dinner Wednesday–Saturday from 5–9 p.m., and Saturday–Sunday for weekend brunch 11 a.m.–3 p.m. Check the \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oaklandbloom/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Oakland Bloom\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> and \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/otk_eats/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Open Test Kitchen\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> social media pages for updates on the restaurant’s weekly schedule.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "four-kings-hong-kong-restaurant-san-francisco-chinatown-hella-hungry-interview",
"title": "This Hong Kong-Inspired Hot Spot Abounds With Cantonese Soul",
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"headTitle": "This Hong Kong-Inspired Hot Spot Abounds With Cantonese Soul | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>[dropcap]I[/dropcap]’ve never actually been to Hong Kong. How fortunate, then, that a multiverse portal to a 1990s Cantopop-themed iteration of the island city has ripped through the Bay Area’s space-time continuum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a hilly, jam-packed street in San Francisco’s Chinatown, Four Kings beckons. Led by chefs Franky Ho and Mike Long and their partners Lucy Li and Millie Boonkokua, the five-month-old restaurant is where the past, present and future of San Franciscan Cantonese food abounds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nightly, not one but \u003ci>two\u003c/i> queues of curious locals overflow down opposite ends of the tiny block. Once seated inside, you’ll quickly surrender to the temptations of the casually upscale hot spot’s culinary éclat and abundance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is where you go when you want to feast on HK favorites — saucy pork chop rice, succulent black pepper steak and fusion offerings like mapo spaghetti or XO escargot — while industrial kitchen appliances hum around you, longtime friends chatter nearby and the immortal Wong Ka Kui croons over the speakers. If you’re savvy, you’ll enjoy a glass of monkey-picked oolong tea, a boozy Chinese almond milk highball or a crisp Taiwanese lager brewed with discarded bread crusts while observing the bustling energy from an intimately tight spot at the counter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961953\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961953\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-012-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-012-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-012-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-012-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-012-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-012-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-012-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-012-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pork chop rice with tomato egg — Four Kings’ take on a classic Hong Kong cha chaan teng–style dish. \u003ccite>(Juliana Yamada for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And just when you’ve finally begun to settle in and appreciate the restaurant’s funkier elements (unframed posters of Cantopop celebrities, golden maneki-neko playfully waving their paws, a kitschy array of knickknacks bathed in neon-lit perfection), a plate of fried squab arrives to recenter your attention.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That squab is the headlining draw at Four Kings, and, like the rest of the menu here, it’s both an ode to and a deviation from traditional Cantonese fare. The malt-sugar-brushed bird comes with its claws and beak intact, and you’ll need to properly angle it with your hands to get a piece of thigh — the best part, I’m told.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961950\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961950\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-001-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-001-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-001-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-001-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-001-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-001-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-001-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-001-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salted egg squash croquettes. \u003ccite>(Juliana Yamada for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Having grown up in Chinatown after immigrating from China, Ho is serving heat in the neighborhood where he was raised by his grandmother and mother, who still regularly drops off homemade soup at the restaurant in the mornings. While working as a chef at Mister Jiu’s, he struck up a friendship with Long, who brings his Los Angeles flare and memories of living in Hong Kong to Four Kings, which the duo started as a pop-up last year. With Li running the business end and Boonkokua greeting guests as the hostess, the team of four has overtaken San Francisco’s dining scene like a monsoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Built on a shared sense of childhood nostalgia, migratory friendships and the comfort of home away from home, Four Kings has an anima — a deep soulfulness — that can only be unlocked after living abroad, after tasting a homeland. It’s hot mustard jellyfish salad and sweet red bean shaved ice for the soul.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Four Kings isn’t the traditional dining experience you might encounter in the historic center of Chinatown. Instead, it’s like being inside the culinary fever dream of first-generation Cantonese millennials — where plates of sensory-overloading goodness keep piling up in front of you, and where you’re lavished with attention as the royal guest of honor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961956\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961956\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-022-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-022-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-022-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-022-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-022-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-022-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-022-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-022-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A full house of customers. Since opening in the spring of 2024, Four Kings has been one of San Francisco’s buzziest restaurants. \u003ccite>(Juliana Yamada for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: Cantopop music is a major element at Four Kings. How did you get into that genre and how does it fit with your concept? Also, any Cantopop recommendations?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike Long:\u003c/b> Cantopop is huge for Cantonese kids. Our parents play it all the time on TVB — that’s the channel for Cantonese stuff. Beyond is my favorite group.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Lucy Li: \u003c/b>Our name, Four Kings, references the Four Heavenly Kings, which is a specific group of Cantopop stars from the ’90s. They’re not an actual group, but they were dubbed as the four. It’s like Britney or Christina, but this is for four men in Cantopop [Jacky Cheung, Andy Lau, Leon Lai and Aaron Kwok]. Out of those four, I like Jacky Cheung’s music the best.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we used to all hang out before we worked together, we would always listen to a Chinese playlist, and then we just kept adding to it. So that’s what started it. We were like, oh, we should just play this at our future restaurant because we like it so much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Millie Boonkokua::\u003c/b> We have \u003ca href=\"https://open.spotify.com/playlist/7m5GmSTmYNqJ0VpZFyPG6A?si=c8282f11eef64212&nd=1&dlsi=d4a6f3ea1bdf4a88\">a Cantopop playlist\u003c/a> that we’re happy to share with customers if they ask about it at the restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c!-- iframe plugin v.4.3 wordpress.org/plugins/iframe/ -->\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe style=\"border-radius:12px\" src=\"https://open.spotify.com/embed/playlist/7m5GmSTmYNqJ0VpZFyPG6A?utm_source=generator\" width=\"100%\" height=\"352\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen allow=\"autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; fullscreen; picture-in-picture\" loading=\"lazy\" scrolling=\"yes\" class=\"iframe-class\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How are you all feeling a few months into your successful opening? You entered this endeavor as friends and life partners, so I’m sure there have been plenty of highlights and struggles in running your first food business in San Francisco.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike:\u003c/b> The struggle has always been there, and it’s probably going to keep going, but the reward has definitely been amazing. We spent a lot of time in our careers working for other people, and Franky and I transitioned from fine dining to where we’re at now. That has always been a goal of ours, to open a more low-key, casual, approachable spot. But the whole journey has been really good. It really helps to have this team right here: Lucy, Millie, Franky. Each one of us brings a different strength to this team. Without it, this isn’t doable. It’s a lot easier to do it together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Lucy:\u003c/b> It might look like we have a big team from the outside, but it’s really just the four of us. I’m doing press and accounting. I have no PR training. Millie is doing everything. She’s making drinks and serving. Mike and Franky are in the kitchen. Mike \u003ca href=\"https://www.itsfourkings.com/menu\">designed our menu\u003c/a>. And we love our staff. They’re amazing, and we can’t do this without them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky:\u003c/b> Yes, I agree. [Group laughs].\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Millie: \u003c/b>I just want to say, as the person who does the hosting and works the front every day, I just feel overwhelmed with joy. I get to be the one who physically opens our door every night, and sometimes there are 40 people or more waiting outside. It really is just a feeling of joy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962301\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962301\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-003-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-003-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-003-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-003-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-003-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-003-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-003-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-003-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-003-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">KQED Arts Reporter Alan Chazaro eats the hot mustard jellyfish salad. \u003ccite>(Juliana Yamada for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>When I visited, I could definitely feel that vibe of deep friendship and teamwork. You all seem to be doing multiple things at once.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike:\u003c/b> The big ethos of our restaurant is that no one person is doing just one specific task. We want our kitchen to kind of operate in a way where each person gets each other’s back and everyone’s able to flow into helping one another out. A lot of traditional restaurants have a disconnect between front and back of the house. But for us, in a way, we’re like, hey, they’re a little busy right now. We’re going to help run food. And that’s kind of also what we want to encourage, that engagement with our guests and being able to drop off some food, check in on everyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What did you all learn from running a pop-up together?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky:\u003c/b> Our pop-up was extremely busy. There were long lines and we would run out of food. We were very short-staffed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Lucy:\u003c/b> It was just the four of us [laughs].\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike: \u003c/b>Yeah, and the dishwasher had to be downstairs. So with running up and down the stairs to do that on top of cooking and serving, it was pretty rough. We were a little…\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Lucy:\u003c/b> Very slammed. But the reception, seeing people line up, was a good indicator of like, okay, maybe we’re doing something right. And then seeing continued interest only further confirmed that. That energy we had during the pop-up never went away. It just kept increasing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I love pop-ups. A lot can be learned and creatively developed at that stage.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike: \u003c/b>With our pop-up, we had this idea of doing a Cantonese izakaya–style concept. But I think initially, it was a hard image for a lot of people to think about. But by doing our pop-up slowly, people began to recognize what we were trying to do. And it’s the same for ourselves, too, right? It allows us to start actually seeing what we had planned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Up until now, even with the brick-and-mortar, we are still trying to realize that goal. It wasn’t until our opening night and seeing guests here that it really felt like we hit it. That’s when we felt like, okay, this is the spot where we want to be. A lot of energy and people just having a good time in a casual neighborhood spot. Sharing small-plate foods, enjoying everything. I think it’s through the pop-up phase that we were able to learn all that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961955\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961955\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-016-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-016-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-016-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-016-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-016-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-016-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-016-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-016-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">KQED Arts Reporter Alan Chazaro waits in line outside the Chinatown restaurant with Four Kings co-owner Lucy Li. \u003ccite>(Juliana Yamada for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>And you’re doing it all in San Francisco’s Chinatown, the neighborhood where Franky grew up. How does it feel being there and what’s your relationship with this community? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky:\u003c/b> It’s been nice coming back and having a restaurant where [my family and I] first immigrated to [from Guangdong province of China]. We really like the neighborhood. We try to support a lot of the local producers and the produce people. We get a lot of our live seafood from Chinatown, and our noodles are all made in Chinatown. We weren’t specifically looking to be in Chinatown, but we just somehow ended up in the perfect space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13961696,arts_13950866,arts_13924997']\u003c/span>Mike: \u003c/b>Our building used to be an old shrimp company. When our landlord took over the space years ago, his wife wanted to build a Kumon. The space downstairs became a restaurant prior to us taking over. I definitely feel very honored to be in Chinatown. Being in this space, you see more and more of the culture. Just walking from the parking lot [beneath Portsmouth Square] to the restaurant, you see all the grandmas and grandpas playing chess and cards in the park. It’s dope to see everyday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Lucy:\u003c/b> It’s a vibrant community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike:\u003c/b> Yeah. It gives you glimpses of the vibes of being in Hong Kong. Especially if you go down Stockton Street. When I think about Hong Kong, it’s walking down crowded streets. It’s hot, it’s humid. And then you have AC blasting from the storefronts, and they’re just selling random knickknacks. Sometimes when you walk down Chinatown in San Francisco, you hit those same feelings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Have you been back to Hong Kong recently? \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://video.kqed.org/video/crackdown-1710973659/\">\u003cb>The government has implemented new national security laws\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>. What’s the political climate there right now?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike:\u003c/b> Lucy and I actually went [a year ago]. Politics isn’t necessarily what you see on the streets. It doesn’t really affect tourism, doesn’t affect visitors. But you do see it in the families. like for me and my relatives. There’s a divide between people who are pro-China and people who are in support of the youth movements for liberation and democracy. So you definitely see the tension within families, but not necessarily out in the streets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Do you all have any go-to spots in Chinatown or nearby? How is being here a source of culinary inspiration?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike:\u003c/b> We go out in Chinatown all the time. Every Monday night after service, after a long week, we take our staff to eat dinner at like 2 a.m., and the only spot that’s open, which happens, in our opinion, to be the best place in Chinatown is \u003ca href=\"https://maps.app.goo.gl/Q3TFUs2W6LRwHMQS6\">Taishan Cuisine\u003c/a> on Broadway. We also go to Hon’s Wun-Tun around the corner. They have two locations. But yeah, we definitely eat out in Chinatown for sure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961957\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961957\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-027-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-027-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-027-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-027-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-027-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-027-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-027-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-027-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Line cook Brenda Lau plates a dessert. \u003ccite>(Juliana Yamada for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Have other chefs or business owners in the area stopped by since you’ve moved in?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Lucy: \u003c/b>One of our big inspirations in the Bay Area is actually \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2022/6/8/23160058/chome-izakaya-san-francisco-mission\">Chome\u003c/a>. They’re a Japanese izakaya [in the Mission], and we’ve been there plenty. They actually came to eat at Four Kings since we opened, and it was really cute. We love Chome.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky:\u003c/b> R & G Lounge has stopped by. They’re right near to us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike:\u003c/b> Mow Lee [Shing Kee & Company]. They’re very established and do Chinese charcuterie plates just up the street. The owner’s son has eaten here. There has been a lot of support in general.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky, you’ve been in Chinatown the longest. How has the area changed over time?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky: \u003c/b>It changed a lot for a while, but I feel like it’s back to where it was when [my family and I] first immigrated here. We’re getting a lot more people again, and all the vendors are busy, the streets are busy. I feel like a couple of years ago it was pretty dead. And a lot of restaurants and businesses were closing, but it seems like it’s back to where it was from what I remember. I see a lot of the younger generations coming back to hang out in Chinatown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.itsfourkings.com/about\">\u003cb>Your amazing website\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> lists Franky as being better than “a walking encyclopedia of Chinese food knowledge.” So I humbly ask, what defines Cantonese food for you, Franky?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky:\u003c/b> There’s a few descriptions and explanations for Cantonese food. In China, Cantonese food is pure food. They don’t add a lot of seasoning. Everything is fresh. That’s why many things are steamed or blanched. But when you move towards Hong Kong or Macau, Cantonese food becomes fusion food. A mixture of French cuisine. British influences. It can be more flavorful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What dish do you serve at Four Kings that most embodies your version of Cantonese food?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike:\u003c/b> The pork chop rice. The inspiration for ours comes from cha chaan teng, which are the Hong Kong-style cafes we go to. One of our favorite orders that we get there is this big pork chop on either rice or spaghetti. And that’s kind of our take on it for our restaurant. We really needed to be able to bring something that’s nostalgic. It hits home for us and for a lot of young Cantonese kids, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Lucy:\u003c/b> The dish also takes inspiration from Japanese katsudon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike: \u003c/b>Yeah, so we bread it with panko and deep-fry our pork chops after we brine it for a few days. And then we serve it with a tomato egg slurry versus the traditional sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky:\u003c/b> I also really like our take on a Hong Kong version of a Sichuan fish dish, which is fermented mustard greens and fried fish. I guess we do a San Francisco version of it. And we add butter, which is from the French influence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike:\u003c/b> The fried squab is also an easy answer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962300\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962300\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-019-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-019-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-019-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-019-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-019-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-019-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-019-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-019-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-019-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fried squab hanging in the kitchen. \u003ccite>(Juliana Yamada for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>For those who don’t know, what exactly is squab, and why isn’t it more commonly served in the U.S.?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky:\u003c/b> I feel like a lot of people don’t really eat squab because they’re pigeons. But a good amount of fine dining restaurants use them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike: \u003c/b>There aren’t any farms for squab. So the general price for it is pretty expensive. And I guess for most people to get a smaller bird for that price, it’s not ideal. Hence, it’s a harder protein to sell at a restaurant because it always comes with a higher price tag.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Lucy: \u003c/b>Franky, you have a personal connection to squab.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky:\u003c/b> Yeah, so in my hometown in China, we’re famous for our squab. Our dialect is squab, or “squab speak” in Chinese. Most banquets will serve one fried squab per person. We wanted to bring that here. We also really want people to eat it with their hands, to just devour it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike:\u003c/b> The squab is ideal for our restaurant concept because we want to serve smaller plates for our size [the building is narrow]. It’s my favorite course from a Cantonese banquet. All the kids always fight for the squab.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Four Kings (710 Commercial St., San Francisco) is open Thurs. through Mon. from 6 to 11 p.m. \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.opentable.com/restref/client/?restref=1329550&lang=en-US&ot_source=Restaurant%20website&corrid=ba87a81d-b5c9-4732-9555-dbc3fd2783f1\">\u003ci>Reservations\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> are recommended up to three weeks in advance; walk-in counter seating is available on a limited basis. Fried squab is offered in small quantities on a first-come, first-served basis.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "Four Kings Abounds With Cantonese Soul in SF Chinatown | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">I\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>’ve never actually been to Hong Kong. How fortunate, then, that a multiverse portal to a 1990s Cantopop-themed iteration of the island city has ripped through the Bay Area’s space-time continuum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a hilly, jam-packed street in San Francisco’s Chinatown, Four Kings beckons. Led by chefs Franky Ho and Mike Long and their partners Lucy Li and Millie Boonkokua, the five-month-old restaurant is where the past, present and future of San Franciscan Cantonese food abounds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nightly, not one but \u003ci>two\u003c/i> queues of curious locals overflow down opposite ends of the tiny block. Once seated inside, you’ll quickly surrender to the temptations of the casually upscale hot spot’s culinary éclat and abundance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is where you go when you want to feast on HK favorites — saucy pork chop rice, succulent black pepper steak and fusion offerings like mapo spaghetti or XO escargot — while industrial kitchen appliances hum around you, longtime friends chatter nearby and the immortal Wong Ka Kui croons over the speakers. If you’re savvy, you’ll enjoy a glass of monkey-picked oolong tea, a boozy Chinese almond milk highball or a crisp Taiwanese lager brewed with discarded bread crusts while observing the bustling energy from an intimately tight spot at the counter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961953\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961953\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-012-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-012-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-012-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-012-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-012-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-012-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-012-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-012-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pork chop rice with tomato egg — Four Kings’ take on a classic Hong Kong cha chaan teng–style dish. \u003ccite>(Juliana Yamada for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And just when you’ve finally begun to settle in and appreciate the restaurant’s funkier elements (unframed posters of Cantopop celebrities, golden maneki-neko playfully waving their paws, a kitschy array of knickknacks bathed in neon-lit perfection), a plate of fried squab arrives to recenter your attention.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That squab is the headlining draw at Four Kings, and, like the rest of the menu here, it’s both an ode to and a deviation from traditional Cantonese fare. The malt-sugar-brushed bird comes with its claws and beak intact, and you’ll need to properly angle it with your hands to get a piece of thigh — the best part, I’m told.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961950\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961950\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-001-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-001-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-001-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-001-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-001-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-001-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-001-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-001-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salted egg squash croquettes. \u003ccite>(Juliana Yamada for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Having grown up in Chinatown after immigrating from China, Ho is serving heat in the neighborhood where he was raised by his grandmother and mother, who still regularly drops off homemade soup at the restaurant in the mornings. While working as a chef at Mister Jiu’s, he struck up a friendship with Long, who brings his Los Angeles flare and memories of living in Hong Kong to Four Kings, which the duo started as a pop-up last year. With Li running the business end and Boonkokua greeting guests as the hostess, the team of four has overtaken San Francisco’s dining scene like a monsoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Built on a shared sense of childhood nostalgia, migratory friendships and the comfort of home away from home, Four Kings has an anima — a deep soulfulness — that can only be unlocked after living abroad, after tasting a homeland. It’s hot mustard jellyfish salad and sweet red bean shaved ice for the soul.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Four Kings isn’t the traditional dining experience you might encounter in the historic center of Chinatown. Instead, it’s like being inside the culinary fever dream of first-generation Cantonese millennials — where plates of sensory-overloading goodness keep piling up in front of you, and where you’re lavished with attention as the royal guest of honor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961956\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961956\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-022-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-022-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-022-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-022-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-022-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-022-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-022-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-022-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A full house of customers. Since opening in the spring of 2024, Four Kings has been one of San Francisco’s buzziest restaurants. \u003ccite>(Juliana Yamada for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: Cantopop music is a major element at Four Kings. How did you get into that genre and how does it fit with your concept? Also, any Cantopop recommendations?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike Long:\u003c/b> Cantopop is huge for Cantonese kids. Our parents play it all the time on TVB — that’s the channel for Cantonese stuff. Beyond is my favorite group.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Lucy Li: \u003c/b>Our name, Four Kings, references the Four Heavenly Kings, which is a specific group of Cantopop stars from the ’90s. They’re not an actual group, but they were dubbed as the four. It’s like Britney or Christina, but this is for four men in Cantopop [Jacky Cheung, Andy Lau, Leon Lai and Aaron Kwok]. Out of those four, I like Jacky Cheung’s music the best.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we used to all hang out before we worked together, we would always listen to a Chinese playlist, and then we just kept adding to it. So that’s what started it. We were like, oh, we should just play this at our future restaurant because we like it so much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Millie Boonkokua::\u003c/b> We have \u003ca href=\"https://open.spotify.com/playlist/7m5GmSTmYNqJ0VpZFyPG6A?si=c8282f11eef64212&nd=1&dlsi=d4a6f3ea1bdf4a88\">a Cantopop playlist\u003c/a> that we’re happy to share with customers if they ask about it at the restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c!-- iframe plugin v.4.3 wordpress.org/plugins/iframe/ -->\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe style=\"border-radius:12px\" src=\"https://open.spotify.com/embed/playlist/7m5GmSTmYNqJ0VpZFyPG6A?utm_source=generator\" width=\"100%\" height=\"352\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen allow=\"autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; fullscreen; picture-in-picture\" loading=\"lazy\" scrolling=\"yes\" class=\"iframe-class\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How are you all feeling a few months into your successful opening? You entered this endeavor as friends and life partners, so I’m sure there have been plenty of highlights and struggles in running your first food business in San Francisco.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike:\u003c/b> The struggle has always been there, and it’s probably going to keep going, but the reward has definitely been amazing. We spent a lot of time in our careers working for other people, and Franky and I transitioned from fine dining to where we’re at now. That has always been a goal of ours, to open a more low-key, casual, approachable spot. But the whole journey has been really good. It really helps to have this team right here: Lucy, Millie, Franky. Each one of us brings a different strength to this team. Without it, this isn’t doable. It’s a lot easier to do it together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Lucy:\u003c/b> It might look like we have a big team from the outside, but it’s really just the four of us. I’m doing press and accounting. I have no PR training. Millie is doing everything. She’s making drinks and serving. Mike and Franky are in the kitchen. Mike \u003ca href=\"https://www.itsfourkings.com/menu\">designed our menu\u003c/a>. And we love our staff. They’re amazing, and we can’t do this without them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky:\u003c/b> Yes, I agree. [Group laughs].\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Millie: \u003c/b>I just want to say, as the person who does the hosting and works the front every day, I just feel overwhelmed with joy. I get to be the one who physically opens our door every night, and sometimes there are 40 people or more waiting outside. It really is just a feeling of joy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962301\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962301\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-003-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-003-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-003-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-003-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-003-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-003-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-003-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-003-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-003-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">KQED Arts Reporter Alan Chazaro eats the hot mustard jellyfish salad. \u003ccite>(Juliana Yamada for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>When I visited, I could definitely feel that vibe of deep friendship and teamwork. You all seem to be doing multiple things at once.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike:\u003c/b> The big ethos of our restaurant is that no one person is doing just one specific task. We want our kitchen to kind of operate in a way where each person gets each other’s back and everyone’s able to flow into helping one another out. A lot of traditional restaurants have a disconnect between front and back of the house. But for us, in a way, we’re like, hey, they’re a little busy right now. We’re going to help run food. And that’s kind of also what we want to encourage, that engagement with our guests and being able to drop off some food, check in on everyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What did you all learn from running a pop-up together?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky:\u003c/b> Our pop-up was extremely busy. There were long lines and we would run out of food. We were very short-staffed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Lucy:\u003c/b> It was just the four of us [laughs].\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike: \u003c/b>Yeah, and the dishwasher had to be downstairs. So with running up and down the stairs to do that on top of cooking and serving, it was pretty rough. We were a little…\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Lucy:\u003c/b> Very slammed. But the reception, seeing people line up, was a good indicator of like, okay, maybe we’re doing something right. And then seeing continued interest only further confirmed that. That energy we had during the pop-up never went away. It just kept increasing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I love pop-ups. A lot can be learned and creatively developed at that stage.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike: \u003c/b>With our pop-up, we had this idea of doing a Cantonese izakaya–style concept. But I think initially, it was a hard image for a lot of people to think about. But by doing our pop-up slowly, people began to recognize what we were trying to do. And it’s the same for ourselves, too, right? It allows us to start actually seeing what we had planned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Up until now, even with the brick-and-mortar, we are still trying to realize that goal. It wasn’t until our opening night and seeing guests here that it really felt like we hit it. That’s when we felt like, okay, this is the spot where we want to be. A lot of energy and people just having a good time in a casual neighborhood spot. Sharing small-plate foods, enjoying everything. I think it’s through the pop-up phase that we were able to learn all that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961955\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961955\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-016-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-016-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-016-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-016-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-016-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-016-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-016-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-016-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">KQED Arts Reporter Alan Chazaro waits in line outside the Chinatown restaurant with Four Kings co-owner Lucy Li. \u003ccite>(Juliana Yamada for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>And you’re doing it all in San Francisco’s Chinatown, the neighborhood where Franky grew up. How does it feel being there and what’s your relationship with this community? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky:\u003c/b> It’s been nice coming back and having a restaurant where [my family and I] first immigrated to [from Guangdong province of China]. We really like the neighborhood. We try to support a lot of the local producers and the produce people. We get a lot of our live seafood from Chinatown, and our noodles are all made in Chinatown. We weren’t specifically looking to be in Chinatown, but we just somehow ended up in the perfect space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Mike: \u003c/b>Our building used to be an old shrimp company. When our landlord took over the space years ago, his wife wanted to build a Kumon. The space downstairs became a restaurant prior to us taking over. I definitely feel very honored to be in Chinatown. Being in this space, you see more and more of the culture. Just walking from the parking lot [beneath Portsmouth Square] to the restaurant, you see all the grandmas and grandpas playing chess and cards in the park. It’s dope to see everyday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Lucy:\u003c/b> It’s a vibrant community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike:\u003c/b> Yeah. It gives you glimpses of the vibes of being in Hong Kong. Especially if you go down Stockton Street. When I think about Hong Kong, it’s walking down crowded streets. It’s hot, it’s humid. And then you have AC blasting from the storefronts, and they’re just selling random knickknacks. Sometimes when you walk down Chinatown in San Francisco, you hit those same feelings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Have you been back to Hong Kong recently? \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://video.kqed.org/video/crackdown-1710973659/\">\u003cb>The government has implemented new national security laws\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>. What’s the political climate there right now?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike:\u003c/b> Lucy and I actually went [a year ago]. Politics isn’t necessarily what you see on the streets. It doesn’t really affect tourism, doesn’t affect visitors. But you do see it in the families. like for me and my relatives. There’s a divide between people who are pro-China and people who are in support of the youth movements for liberation and democracy. So you definitely see the tension within families, but not necessarily out in the streets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Do you all have any go-to spots in Chinatown or nearby? How is being here a source of culinary inspiration?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike:\u003c/b> We go out in Chinatown all the time. Every Monday night after service, after a long week, we take our staff to eat dinner at like 2 a.m., and the only spot that’s open, which happens, in our opinion, to be the best place in Chinatown is \u003ca href=\"https://maps.app.goo.gl/Q3TFUs2W6LRwHMQS6\">Taishan Cuisine\u003c/a> on Broadway. We also go to Hon’s Wun-Tun around the corner. They have two locations. But yeah, we definitely eat out in Chinatown for sure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961957\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961957\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-027-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-027-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-027-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-027-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-027-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-027-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-027-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HELLAHUNGRYFOURKINGS-JY-027-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Line cook Brenda Lau plates a dessert. \u003ccite>(Juliana Yamada for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Have other chefs or business owners in the area stopped by since you’ve moved in?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Lucy: \u003c/b>One of our big inspirations in the Bay Area is actually \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2022/6/8/23160058/chome-izakaya-san-francisco-mission\">Chome\u003c/a>. They’re a Japanese izakaya [in the Mission], and we’ve been there plenty. They actually came to eat at Four Kings since we opened, and it was really cute. We love Chome.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky:\u003c/b> R & G Lounge has stopped by. They’re right near to us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike:\u003c/b> Mow Lee [Shing Kee & Company]. They’re very established and do Chinese charcuterie plates just up the street. The owner’s son has eaten here. There has been a lot of support in general.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky, you’ve been in Chinatown the longest. How has the area changed over time?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky: \u003c/b>It changed a lot for a while, but I feel like it’s back to where it was when [my family and I] first immigrated here. We’re getting a lot more people again, and all the vendors are busy, the streets are busy. I feel like a couple of years ago it was pretty dead. And a lot of restaurants and businesses were closing, but it seems like it’s back to where it was from what I remember. I see a lot of the younger generations coming back to hang out in Chinatown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.itsfourkings.com/about\">\u003cb>Your amazing website\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> lists Franky as being better than “a walking encyclopedia of Chinese food knowledge.” So I humbly ask, what defines Cantonese food for you, Franky?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky:\u003c/b> There’s a few descriptions and explanations for Cantonese food. In China, Cantonese food is pure food. They don’t add a lot of seasoning. Everything is fresh. That’s why many things are steamed or blanched. But when you move towards Hong Kong or Macau, Cantonese food becomes fusion food. A mixture of French cuisine. British influences. It can be more flavorful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What dish do you serve at Four Kings that most embodies your version of Cantonese food?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike:\u003c/b> The pork chop rice. The inspiration for ours comes from cha chaan teng, which are the Hong Kong-style cafes we go to. One of our favorite orders that we get there is this big pork chop on either rice or spaghetti. And that’s kind of our take on it for our restaurant. We really needed to be able to bring something that’s nostalgic. It hits home for us and for a lot of young Cantonese kids, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Lucy:\u003c/b> The dish also takes inspiration from Japanese katsudon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike: \u003c/b>Yeah, so we bread it with panko and deep-fry our pork chops after we brine it for a few days. And then we serve it with a tomato egg slurry versus the traditional sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky:\u003c/b> I also really like our take on a Hong Kong version of a Sichuan fish dish, which is fermented mustard greens and fried fish. I guess we do a San Francisco version of it. And we add butter, which is from the French influence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike:\u003c/b> The fried squab is also an easy answer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962300\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962300\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-019-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-019-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-019-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-019-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-019-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-019-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-019-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-019-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240729-HellaHungryFourKings-JY-019-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fried squab hanging in the kitchen. \u003ccite>(Juliana Yamada for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>For those who don’t know, what exactly is squab, and why isn’t it more commonly served in the U.S.?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky:\u003c/b> I feel like a lot of people don’t really eat squab because they’re pigeons. But a good amount of fine dining restaurants use them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike: \u003c/b>There aren’t any farms for squab. So the general price for it is pretty expensive. And I guess for most people to get a smaller bird for that price, it’s not ideal. Hence, it’s a harder protein to sell at a restaurant because it always comes with a higher price tag.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Lucy: \u003c/b>Franky, you have a personal connection to squab.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Franky:\u003c/b> Yeah, so in my hometown in China, we’re famous for our squab. Our dialect is squab, or “squab speak” in Chinese. Most banquets will serve one fried squab per person. We wanted to bring that here. We also really want people to eat it with their hands, to just devour it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mike:\u003c/b> The squab is ideal for our restaurant concept because we want to serve smaller plates for our size [the building is narrow]. It’s my favorite course from a Cantonese banquet. All the kids always fight for the squab.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Four Kings (710 Commercial St., San Francisco) is open Thurs. through Mon. from 6 to 11 p.m. \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.opentable.com/restref/client/?restref=1329550&lang=en-US&ot_source=Restaurant%20website&corrid=ba87a81d-b5c9-4732-9555-dbc3fd2783f1\">\u003ci>Reservations\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> are recommended up to three weeks in advance; walk-in counter seating is available on a limited basis. Fried squab is offered in small quantities on a first-come, first-served basis.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "bizerkeley-vegan-food-festival-berkeley-2024",
"title": "The Bay Area’s Largest Vegan Food Festival Is Also Its Most Diverse",
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"headTitle": "The Bay Area’s Largest Vegan Food Festival Is Also Its Most Diverse | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>This weekend, one of the Bay Area’s biggest and most forward-thinking food festivals gets underway in downtown Berkeley, offering a multicultural smorgasbord of jollof, lumpia, curry rice bowls, Cajun fried chicken and Dole Whip–style soft serve. Add in an array of mostly local art, apparel and wellness brands, and there will be about 100 vendors in all, the vast majority of which are owner-operated small businesses run by people of color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The biggest catch? Everything will be 100% vegan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='forum_2010101887767,arts_13916044,arts_13915889']\u003c/span>That’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.thebizerkeleyvegan.com/bizerkeley-food-fest-2024\">Bizerkeley Food Festival\u003c/a> in a nutshell. The annual vegan food festival returns to Berkeley’s Martin Luther King Jr. Civic Center Park for its fourth edition this Sunday, Sept. 1. Founder \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13915889/berkeley-vegan-food-festival-bizerkeley-vegan\">Erika Hazel\u003c/a>, a Berkeley-born educator and \u003ca href=\"https://thebizerkeleyvegan.weebly.com/\">vegan food blogger\u003c/a>, is committed to showing not only that veganism can be delicious, but also that there’s more to the food than just crunchy granola and microgreens. That it \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101887767/the-bay-areas-new-and-evolving-vegan-scene-with-luke-tsai\">isn’t a lifestyle \u003ci>only\u003c/i> suitable for affluent white hippies\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So yes, there will be plenty of kombucha on tap at the festival — but also soul food from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theveganhoodchefs/?hl=en\">The Vegan Hood Chefs\u003c/a>, Nigerian fufu and oyster mushroom suya from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thathausavegan/?hl=en\">That Hausa Vegan\u003c/a>, and fusion (plant-based) shrimp po’boy sushi rolls from Sacramento’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chefj.redd/?hl=en\">Chef J. Redd\u003c/a>. And a number of prominent non-vegan restaurants and food trucks will adapt their menus in order to provide strictly plant-based offerings. \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13960580/jollof-festival-oakland-west-african-food-competition-nigerian-sierra-leone\">Championship-pedigreed\u003c/a> jollof rice truck \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jollofkitchen/?hl=en\">Jollof Kitchen\u003c/a>, Trinidadian comfort food spot \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/cocobreezeco/?hl=en\">Cocobreeze\u003c/a> and Filipino street food innovator \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thesarapshop/?hl=en\">Sarap Shop\u003c/a> are just a few of the vendors that are sure to attract long lines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963486\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963486\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/CREDIT-Visionary-Media-Collective_The-Bizerkeley-Food-Fest_Food-2.jpg\" alt=\"Crowd of people at an outdoor food festival.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/CREDIT-Visionary-Media-Collective_The-Bizerkeley-Food-Fest_Food-2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/CREDIT-Visionary-Media-Collective_The-Bizerkeley-Food-Fest_Food-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/CREDIT-Visionary-Media-Collective_The-Bizerkeley-Food-Fest_Food-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/CREDIT-Visionary-Media-Collective_The-Bizerkeley-Food-Fest_Food-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/CREDIT-Visionary-Media-Collective_The-Bizerkeley-Food-Fest_Food-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/CREDIT-Visionary-Media-Collective_The-Bizerkeley-Food-Fest_Food-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/CREDIT-Visionary-Media-Collective_The-Bizerkeley-Food-Fest_Food-2-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bizerkeley is the Bay Area’s largest vegan food festival. \u003ccite>(Visionary Media Collective)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All in all, the Bizerkeley festival almost certainly features the most diverse, boldly flavored vegan food lineup you’ll encounter in Northern California this year — the one least likely to leave you asking, “\u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/white-people-food-meme-explained\">Where’s the seasoning?\u003c/a>”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, it’s also probably the only vegan festival you’ll attend this year headlined by one of the rising stars of Bay Area rap: \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13900085/stunnaman02-and-the-big-steppin-energy-in-the-room\">big-steppin’ Stunnaman02\u003c/a> himself. The San Francisco rapper will take the stage to perform his most recent single, “Eat a Salad,” with its very festival-appropriate lyrics: “Your life would hit different if you kept your diet balanced / That poison in your body got your mind filled with malice / Put the bullshit down and go and eat a salad, come on.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As it turns out, Stunnaman02 isn’t coming to Bizerkeley Fest just to perform. As a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13907726/e-40-goon-with-the-spoon-bay-area-rappers-food-entrepreneurs-hustle\">budding food entrepreneur\u003c/a> himself, he’ll also be on hand to sell his \u003ca href=\"https://www.stunnaman02.com/02-juice\">02 Juice\u003c/a> line of limeades.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Bizerkeley Food Festival takes place on Sunday, Sept. 1, noon–6 p.m., at 2151 Martin Luther King Jr. Way. \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/4th-annual-bizerkeley-food-fest-tickets-828035836477\">\u003ci>Tickets\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> start at $10.49, with free admission for children 12 years old and younger.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "The Bay Area’s Largest Vegan Food Festival Is Also Its Most Diverse | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>This weekend, one of the Bay Area’s biggest and most forward-thinking food festivals gets underway in downtown Berkeley, offering a multicultural smorgasbord of jollof, lumpia, curry rice bowls, Cajun fried chicken and Dole Whip–style soft serve. Add in an array of mostly local art, apparel and wellness brands, and there will be about 100 vendors in all, the vast majority of which are owner-operated small businesses run by people of color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The biggest catch? Everything will be 100% vegan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>That’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.thebizerkeleyvegan.com/bizerkeley-food-fest-2024\">Bizerkeley Food Festival\u003c/a> in a nutshell. The annual vegan food festival returns to Berkeley’s Martin Luther King Jr. Civic Center Park for its fourth edition this Sunday, Sept. 1. Founder \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13915889/berkeley-vegan-food-festival-bizerkeley-vegan\">Erika Hazel\u003c/a>, a Berkeley-born educator and \u003ca href=\"https://thebizerkeleyvegan.weebly.com/\">vegan food blogger\u003c/a>, is committed to showing not only that veganism can be delicious, but also that there’s more to the food than just crunchy granola and microgreens. That it \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101887767/the-bay-areas-new-and-evolving-vegan-scene-with-luke-tsai\">isn’t a lifestyle \u003ci>only\u003c/i> suitable for affluent white hippies\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So yes, there will be plenty of kombucha on tap at the festival — but also soul food from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theveganhoodchefs/?hl=en\">The Vegan Hood Chefs\u003c/a>, Nigerian fufu and oyster mushroom suya from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thathausavegan/?hl=en\">That Hausa Vegan\u003c/a>, and fusion (plant-based) shrimp po’boy sushi rolls from Sacramento’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chefj.redd/?hl=en\">Chef J. Redd\u003c/a>. And a number of prominent non-vegan restaurants and food trucks will adapt their menus in order to provide strictly plant-based offerings. \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13960580/jollof-festival-oakland-west-african-food-competition-nigerian-sierra-leone\">Championship-pedigreed\u003c/a> jollof rice truck \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jollofkitchen/?hl=en\">Jollof Kitchen\u003c/a>, Trinidadian comfort food spot \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/cocobreezeco/?hl=en\">Cocobreeze\u003c/a> and Filipino street food innovator \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thesarapshop/?hl=en\">Sarap Shop\u003c/a> are just a few of the vendors that are sure to attract long lines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963486\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963486\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/CREDIT-Visionary-Media-Collective_The-Bizerkeley-Food-Fest_Food-2.jpg\" alt=\"Crowd of people at an outdoor food festival.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/CREDIT-Visionary-Media-Collective_The-Bizerkeley-Food-Fest_Food-2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/CREDIT-Visionary-Media-Collective_The-Bizerkeley-Food-Fest_Food-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/CREDIT-Visionary-Media-Collective_The-Bizerkeley-Food-Fest_Food-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/CREDIT-Visionary-Media-Collective_The-Bizerkeley-Food-Fest_Food-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/CREDIT-Visionary-Media-Collective_The-Bizerkeley-Food-Fest_Food-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/CREDIT-Visionary-Media-Collective_The-Bizerkeley-Food-Fest_Food-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/CREDIT-Visionary-Media-Collective_The-Bizerkeley-Food-Fest_Food-2-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bizerkeley is the Bay Area’s largest vegan food festival. \u003ccite>(Visionary Media Collective)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All in all, the Bizerkeley festival almost certainly features the most diverse, boldly flavored vegan food lineup you’ll encounter in Northern California this year — the one least likely to leave you asking, “\u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/white-people-food-meme-explained\">Where’s the seasoning?\u003c/a>”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, it’s also probably the only vegan festival you’ll attend this year headlined by one of the rising stars of Bay Area rap: \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13900085/stunnaman02-and-the-big-steppin-energy-in-the-room\">big-steppin’ Stunnaman02\u003c/a> himself. The San Francisco rapper will take the stage to perform his most recent single, “Eat a Salad,” with its very festival-appropriate lyrics: “Your life would hit different if you kept your diet balanced / That poison in your body got your mind filled with malice / Put the bullshit down and go and eat a salad, come on.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As it turns out, Stunnaman02 isn’t coming to Bizerkeley Fest just to perform. As a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13907726/e-40-goon-with-the-spoon-bay-area-rappers-food-entrepreneurs-hustle\">budding food entrepreneur\u003c/a> himself, he’ll also be on hand to sell his \u003ca href=\"https://www.stunnaman02.com/02-juice\">02 Juice\u003c/a> line of limeades.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Bizerkeley Food Festival takes place on Sunday, Sept. 1, noon–6 p.m., at 2151 Martin Luther King Jr. Way. \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/4th-annual-bizerkeley-food-fest-tickets-828035836477\">\u003ci>Tickets\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> start at $10.49, with free admission for children 12 years old and younger.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "its-the-summer-of-cucumber-salad-try-these-4-recipes-at-home",
"title": "It’s the Summer of Cucumber Salad. Try These 4 Recipes at Home",
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"headTitle": "It’s the Summer of Cucumber Salad. Try These 4 Recipes at Home | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>It’s nearing Labor Day — the unofficial end of summer — which means cucumber season is coming to a close. If you’re trying to get a few more summer salads in before then, you’re not alone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>TikTok’s most recent food craze is cucumber salad. And social media creator Logan Moffitt, known as @\u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@logagm?lang=en\">\u003cu>logagm\u003c/u>\u003c/a> on TikTok, has been posting near-daily cucumber salad recipe videos that have inspired TikTok users to eat an entire cucumber in one sitting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13963258']Each video starts with some variation of, “Sometimes you need to eat an entire cucumber, this is the best way to do it.” Moffitt then slices a cucumber on a mandoline — a feat that has proven \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@geoffreyzakarian/video/7405752620737891615\">dangerous for some TikTok users\u003c/a> — then adds sauce before giving everything a good shake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of Moffitt’s recipes — like \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@logagm/video/7398567357783821574?lang=en&q=%23cucumber&t=1724440814346\">\u003cu>this one\u003c/u>\u003c/a> — are variations on an Asian cucumber salad — and ingredients are never measured:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Soy sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fish sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Sesame oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>MSG\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Rice wine vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>One grated clove of garlic (again, be careful with the grater)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Chili oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Green onion\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>His videos have inspired a flurry of TikTok users creating their own takes on cucumber salad:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>“The \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@soogia1/video/7400904897962544426?lang=en&q=cucumber&t=1724244749919\">\u003cu>one\u003c/u>\u003c/a> that I was most intrigued by was the cream cheese and lox and everything bagel one,” said user @soogia1.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>User @forevaheatha did the “California roll inspired \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@forevaheatha/video/7401670647186738463?lang=en&q=logan%20cucumbers%20salad&t=1724246329958\">\u003cu>cucumber salad\u003c/u>\u003c/a>”\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>“I’m thinking we do like feta, spinach, onion, garlic, lemon, olive oil, \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@whitneyhanslow/video/7401777290255863056?lang=en\">\u003cu>that kind of vibe\u003c/u>\u003c/a>,” user @whitneyhanslow said.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>User @saltnpiipa made a “cucumbery, peanut buttery, Asian-infused \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@saltnpiipa/video/7402692216612818181?lang=en&q=cucumber%20peanut%20butter&t=1724245516286\">\u003cu>bowl of deliciousness\u003c/u>\u003c/a>.”\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>When you’re not in the mood to whip up a multi-ingredient dish, you can always eat cucumbers raw with a bit of sea salt and olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for those ready to try out some new cucumber recipes, we asked a few chefs for their favorite ways to eat a cucumber.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Chef Banh’s Cucumber Shrimp Salad:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963459\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1727px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963459\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/banh.png\" alt=\"A smiling bald Asian man wearing a black turtle neck.\" width=\"1727\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/banh.png 1727w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/banh-800x926.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/banh-1020x1181.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/banh-160x185.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/banh-768x889.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/banh-1326x1536.png 1326w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1727px) 100vw, 1727px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eric Banh, executive chef and cofounder of Saigon Siblings restaurants in Seattle. \u003ccite>(Look at Lao Studios/Eric Banh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Eric Banh, a Chinese-Vietnamese chef and restaurateur from Seattle says he likes to start with an English cucumber — the big ones that often come in plastic at the grocery store — “because [of] the consistency of it and it also has a better crunch.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13963228']One of Banh’s favorite cucumber dishes is his cucumber shrimp salad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We mix it with our pickled pickled carrots and daikon, which is a classic Vietnamese pickled radish,” Banh told NPR’s \u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He then adds pineapple, cooked shrimp and dried shrimp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I think the magic and the secret is dried shrimp,” Banh said. “You just soak it in lukewarm running water for about 30 seconds.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He tosses it in a dressing made from anchovy fish sauce, water, sugar, garlic and lime juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Chef Banh’s vegan cucumber salad:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>He usually leaves most if not all of the peel on — unless he’s making his vegan cucumber salad. For that one, he’ll peel and slice a cucumber in half lengthwise, then cut it into pieces diagonally — but save the peels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next, he adds water, rice wine vinegar, brown sugar and the cucumber peels to a blender, purees it up and dresses the cucumbers in the vinaigrette.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“And now you’ve got this beautiful green color,” Banh said. “You can marinade this an hour ahead before your party or overnight.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Chef Bhatt’s Raita:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963460\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1632px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963460\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/raita.png\" alt=\"A distinguished bald man wearing glasses and a short sleeved white shirt.\" width=\"1632\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/raita.png 1632w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/raita-800x980.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/raita-1020x1250.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/raita-160x196.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/raita-768x941.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/raita-1253x1536.png 1253w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1632px) 100vw, 1632px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vishwesh Bhatt, executive chef at Snackbar in Oxford, MS. \u003ccite>(Sierra Hollis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you’re craving something creamy, Vishwesh Bhatt, the chef at Snackbar in Oxford, Miss. says make a raita — an Indian yogurt-based sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13962759']“It’s very similar to the Turkish or Greek tzatziki,” Bhatt said. “Essentially you take cucumbers, add some chilies or onions and then mix all that with a little lemon juice and yogurt and some toasted cumin and some mustard that’s tempered in oil then folded in,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Chef Bhatt’s Benedictine spread:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Or — you can make a Benedictine spread, a mayo-based spread from the American South that’s traditionally bright green from food coloring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Bhatt makes his with cucumbers, fresh dill, parsley, a little bit of garlic and onion — but instead of a mayonnaise base he uses cream cheese, then adds a bit of mascarpone cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I like the creaminess of the mascarpone,” Bhatt said. “I don’t use food coloring because I don’t think it’s necessary.”\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Cucumbers are almost out of season. Make a refreshing cucumber salad.",
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"title": "4 Cucumber Salad Recipes for the Last Days of Summer | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>It’s nearing Labor Day — the unofficial end of summer — which means cucumber season is coming to a close. If you’re trying to get a few more summer salads in before then, you’re not alone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>TikTok’s most recent food craze is cucumber salad. And social media creator Logan Moffitt, known as @\u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@logagm?lang=en\">\u003cu>logagm\u003c/u>\u003c/a> on TikTok, has been posting near-daily cucumber salad recipe videos that have inspired TikTok users to eat an entire cucumber in one sitting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Each video starts with some variation of, “Sometimes you need to eat an entire cucumber, this is the best way to do it.” Moffitt then slices a cucumber on a mandoline — a feat that has proven \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@geoffreyzakarian/video/7405752620737891615\">dangerous for some TikTok users\u003c/a> — then adds sauce before giving everything a good shake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of Moffitt’s recipes — like \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@logagm/video/7398567357783821574?lang=en&q=%23cucumber&t=1724440814346\">\u003cu>this one\u003c/u>\u003c/a> — are variations on an Asian cucumber salad — and ingredients are never measured:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Soy sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fish sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Sesame oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>MSG\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Rice wine vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>One grated clove of garlic (again, be careful with the grater)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Chili oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Green onion\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>His videos have inspired a flurry of TikTok users creating their own takes on cucumber salad:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>“The \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@soogia1/video/7400904897962544426?lang=en&q=cucumber&t=1724244749919\">\u003cu>one\u003c/u>\u003c/a> that I was most intrigued by was the cream cheese and lox and everything bagel one,” said user @soogia1.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>User @forevaheatha did the “California roll inspired \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@forevaheatha/video/7401670647186738463?lang=en&q=logan%20cucumbers%20salad&t=1724246329958\">\u003cu>cucumber salad\u003c/u>\u003c/a>”\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>“I’m thinking we do like feta, spinach, onion, garlic, lemon, olive oil, \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@whitneyhanslow/video/7401777290255863056?lang=en\">\u003cu>that kind of vibe\u003c/u>\u003c/a>,” user @whitneyhanslow said.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>User @saltnpiipa made a “cucumbery, peanut buttery, Asian-infused \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@saltnpiipa/video/7402692216612818181?lang=en&q=cucumber%20peanut%20butter&t=1724245516286\">\u003cu>bowl of deliciousness\u003c/u>\u003c/a>.”\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>When you’re not in the mood to whip up a multi-ingredient dish, you can always eat cucumbers raw with a bit of sea salt and olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for those ready to try out some new cucumber recipes, we asked a few chefs for their favorite ways to eat a cucumber.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Chef Banh’s Cucumber Shrimp Salad:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963459\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1727px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963459\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/banh.png\" alt=\"A smiling bald Asian man wearing a black turtle neck.\" width=\"1727\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/banh.png 1727w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/banh-800x926.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/banh-1020x1181.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/banh-160x185.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/banh-768x889.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/banh-1326x1536.png 1326w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1727px) 100vw, 1727px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eric Banh, executive chef and cofounder of Saigon Siblings restaurants in Seattle. \u003ccite>(Look at Lao Studios/Eric Banh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Eric Banh, a Chinese-Vietnamese chef and restaurateur from Seattle says he likes to start with an English cucumber — the big ones that often come in plastic at the grocery store — “because [of] the consistency of it and it also has a better crunch.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>One of Banh’s favorite cucumber dishes is his cucumber shrimp salad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We mix it with our pickled pickled carrots and daikon, which is a classic Vietnamese pickled radish,” Banh told NPR’s \u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He then adds pineapple, cooked shrimp and dried shrimp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I think the magic and the secret is dried shrimp,” Banh said. “You just soak it in lukewarm running water for about 30 seconds.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He tosses it in a dressing made from anchovy fish sauce, water, sugar, garlic and lime juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Chef Banh’s vegan cucumber salad:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>He usually leaves most if not all of the peel on — unless he’s making his vegan cucumber salad. For that one, he’ll peel and slice a cucumber in half lengthwise, then cut it into pieces diagonally — but save the peels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next, he adds water, rice wine vinegar, brown sugar and the cucumber peels to a blender, purees it up and dresses the cucumbers in the vinaigrette.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“And now you’ve got this beautiful green color,” Banh said. “You can marinade this an hour ahead before your party or overnight.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Chef Bhatt’s Raita:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963460\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1632px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963460\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/raita.png\" alt=\"A distinguished bald man wearing glasses and a short sleeved white shirt.\" width=\"1632\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/raita.png 1632w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/raita-800x980.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/raita-1020x1250.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/raita-160x196.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/raita-768x941.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/raita-1253x1536.png 1253w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1632px) 100vw, 1632px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vishwesh Bhatt, executive chef at Snackbar in Oxford, MS. \u003ccite>(Sierra Hollis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you’re craving something creamy, Vishwesh Bhatt, the chef at Snackbar in Oxford, Miss. says make a raita — an Indian yogurt-based sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“It’s very similar to the Turkish or Greek tzatziki,” Bhatt said. “Essentially you take cucumbers, add some chilies or onions and then mix all that with a little lemon juice and yogurt and some toasted cumin and some mustard that’s tempered in oil then folded in,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Chef Bhatt’s Benedictine spread:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Or — you can make a Benedictine spread, a mayo-based spread from the American South that’s traditionally bright green from food coloring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Bhatt makes his with cucumbers, fresh dill, parsley, a little bit of garlic and onion — but instead of a mayonnaise base he uses cream cheese, then adds a bit of mascarpone cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I like the creaminess of the mascarpone,” Bhatt said. “I don’t use food coloring because I don’t think it’s necessary.”\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "emmys-spaghetti-shack-late-night-san-francisco-mission-bernal",
"title": "San Francisco’s Favorite Spaghetti Shack Has a New Late-Night Menu",
"publishDate": 1724976003,
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"headTitle": "San Francisco’s Favorite Spaghetti Shack Has a New Late-Night Menu | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963442\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963442\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men in a funkily decorated restaurant. They're devouring spaghetti, mozzarella balls, and a large meatball hero.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Highlights of the new late-night menu at Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack include $9 spaghetti and a spectacular meatball hero. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/emmysspaghettishack/\">Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack\u003c/a> certainly isn’t the only spot in San Francisco serving an old-school Italian American menu. But it might be the only one I would describe as a punk rock red-sauce Italian dive bar. With its rainbow disco lights and weird chandeliers, its pinball machines and shrine of framed Dolly Parton photographs, the restaurant has the eclectic, lived-in quality of a place where someone — say, a fun aunt — has collected all the things they love.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For more than 20 years, founder (and namesake) Emmy Kaplan \u003ci>was \u003c/i>that “fun aunt,” and under her warm-hearted watch, the restaurant played great music every night, sold probably a million plates of spaghetti and meatballs, and cemented its reputation as a quintessentially \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/sf-emmys-spaghetti-shack-17632474.php\">fun and casual neighborhood joint\u003c/a> on the edge of the Mission and Bernal Heights. A legit San Francisco classic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, a few weeks ago, Kaplan \u003ca href=\"https://brokeassstuart.com/2024/08/02/emmys-spaghetti-shack-is-being-sold-and-this-is-good-news/\">announced that she had sold Emmy’s\u003c/a> to Mike Irish, the restaurant’s bar manager for the past several years. To everyone’s great relief, the upshot of that sale appears to be that precisely nothing will change. Well, almost nothing. The menu has a few crowd-pleasing additions (lasagna! shrimp cocktail!). And, at least on Fridays and Saturdays, the restaurant now stays open until midnight — a throwback to the early-2000s incarnation of the spaghetti shack, when it was one of the only casual sit-down restaurants in the neighborhood that was open late.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More to the point: On those nights, starting at 9:30, the restaurant serves a special late-night menu, which includes a $9 plate of spaghetti and a meatball parm hero that — spoiler alert — immediately ranks among San Francisco’s most appealing late-night dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which is what brought us into Emmy’s sparkly, tinsel- and string light–bedecked dining room on a recent Friday night. The restaurant was only one or two weeks into its new late-night offerings, but the prospect of good red sauce Italian after 10 p.m. had a gravitational pull too heavy for us to resist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe the most impressive thing about Emmy’s is how the restaurant has been a master of capturing so many different demographics. We arrived a few minutes before it shifted over to the late-night menu, and the dining room was a multicultural mix of all different types of parties: young couples, older couples, families with exceptionally hungry teenagers, and swagged-out college kids pregaming on their way to the club.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emmy’s is known as one of the city’s most family-friendly restaurants, with a longstanding “kids eat free” deal on Tuesdays. It’s also an enormously popular date-night spot — and just doubled down by \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/offbeat-sf-restaurant-best-deal-19626297.php\">launching a $60 “Monday Is for Lovers” prix-fixe for two\u003c/a> that comes with a bottle of wine. In many ways, then, the new late-night hours are just the latest extension of the restaurant’s ongoing effort to provide things the community really wants — which, in this case, happens to be hearty red sauce Italian at midnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963444\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963444\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: red and purple front facade of a restaurant at nighttime. The sign reads, "Emmy's" in cursive.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant has been open in San Francisco’s Mission Bernal neighborhood for more than 20 years. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Because we arrived a little early, we were able to try the new “Cadillac lasagna” from the regular dinner menu. It was kind of a “deconstructed” version, the pasta sheets arranged in a loose pile rather than cut into a neatly layered square. But the combination of flavors — the rich vodka meat sauce, dollops of sunflower seed pesto and cool ricotta — were just as homey and nostalgic as we’d hoped.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As it turns out, though, it’s easy enough to cobble together a delicious meal ordering exclusively off the new late-night menu, which offers a mix of new dishes and Emmy’s classics. We started with a standard (and perfectly satisfying) version of shrimp cocktail and the crowd favorite cauliflower balls — oozy, stretchy, spherical mozzarella sticks, essentially, with bits of cauliflower mixed in for health (?) and textural interest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13963093,arts_13961997,arts_13959808']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>While you can dine at Emmy’s at any time of night and find at least one massive plate of spaghetti and meatballs on every table, the late-night menu gives you the opportunity to order a smaller (but still not exactly petite) order of that red sauce spaghetti — for just $9, with the option to add on a meatball (or vegan meatball). It had been a number of years since I’d had a plate of Emmy’s spaghetti, but we were hooked from the first piping hot, eminently slurpable bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The showstopper is that new meatball hero, which repurposes several of the restaurant’s staple ingredients — vodka sauce, pesto, stretchy cheese and maybe the best meatballs in town — and serves them hot on a toasty sesame roll. The sandwich comes with a little squeeze bottle of Calabrian hot sauce, which you don’t really need. The real pro hack is to scoop some spaghetti into the hero so you get a bit of extra sauciness in every bite. This is it: the Platonic ideal of late-night drunk food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emmy’s hasn’t done a ton of advertising for the new late-night menu on its \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/emmysspaghettishack/\">social media\u003c/a>, and for a while it seemed like maybe we were the only ones who knew about it. But by the time we left, around 11 o’clock, they’d curtained off the front room and turned up the music, and the restaurant had once again started to fill up. The playlist shuffled from MF Doom to Bo Diddley to a plaintive country ballad, and the night owls sipped Cosmos and dug into their plates of spaghetti. And for at least one night, in this one spot, it felt like San Francisco’s late-night scene hadn’t ever died at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://sfspaghettishack.com/\">\u003ci>Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Sun.–Thu. 5–9:30 p.m. and Fri.–Sat. 5 p.m.–midnight at 3230 Mission St. in San Francisco. On Fridays and Saturdays, it serves a special late-night menu starting at 9:30 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack now serves meatball heroes and red sauce spaghetti until midnight on weekends.",
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"title": "Emmy's Spaghetti Shack Has One of SF's Best Late-Night Menus | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963442\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963442\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men in a funkily decorated restaurant. They're devouring spaghetti, mozzarella balls, and a large meatball hero.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Highlights of the new late-night menu at Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack include $9 spaghetti and a spectacular meatball hero. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/emmysspaghettishack/\">Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack\u003c/a> certainly isn’t the only spot in San Francisco serving an old-school Italian American menu. But it might be the only one I would describe as a punk rock red-sauce Italian dive bar. With its rainbow disco lights and weird chandeliers, its pinball machines and shrine of framed Dolly Parton photographs, the restaurant has the eclectic, lived-in quality of a place where someone — say, a fun aunt — has collected all the things they love.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For more than 20 years, founder (and namesake) Emmy Kaplan \u003ci>was \u003c/i>that “fun aunt,” and under her warm-hearted watch, the restaurant played great music every night, sold probably a million plates of spaghetti and meatballs, and cemented its reputation as a quintessentially \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/sf-emmys-spaghetti-shack-17632474.php\">fun and casual neighborhood joint\u003c/a> on the edge of the Mission and Bernal Heights. A legit San Francisco classic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, a few weeks ago, Kaplan \u003ca href=\"https://brokeassstuart.com/2024/08/02/emmys-spaghetti-shack-is-being-sold-and-this-is-good-news/\">announced that she had sold Emmy’s\u003c/a> to Mike Irish, the restaurant’s bar manager for the past several years. To everyone’s great relief, the upshot of that sale appears to be that precisely nothing will change. Well, almost nothing. The menu has a few crowd-pleasing additions (lasagna! shrimp cocktail!). And, at least on Fridays and Saturdays, the restaurant now stays open until midnight — a throwback to the early-2000s incarnation of the spaghetti shack, when it was one of the only casual sit-down restaurants in the neighborhood that was open late.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More to the point: On those nights, starting at 9:30, the restaurant serves a special late-night menu, which includes a $9 plate of spaghetti and a meatball parm hero that — spoiler alert — immediately ranks among San Francisco’s most appealing late-night dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which is what brought us into Emmy’s sparkly, tinsel- and string light–bedecked dining room on a recent Friday night. The restaurant was only one or two weeks into its new late-night offerings, but the prospect of good red sauce Italian after 10 p.m. had a gravitational pull too heavy for us to resist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe the most impressive thing about Emmy’s is how the restaurant has been a master of capturing so many different demographics. We arrived a few minutes before it shifted over to the late-night menu, and the dining room was a multicultural mix of all different types of parties: young couples, older couples, families with exceptionally hungry teenagers, and swagged-out college kids pregaming on their way to the club.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emmy’s is known as one of the city’s most family-friendly restaurants, with a longstanding “kids eat free” deal on Tuesdays. It’s also an enormously popular date-night spot — and just doubled down by \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/offbeat-sf-restaurant-best-deal-19626297.php\">launching a $60 “Monday Is for Lovers” prix-fixe for two\u003c/a> that comes with a bottle of wine. In many ways, then, the new late-night hours are just the latest extension of the restaurant’s ongoing effort to provide things the community really wants — which, in this case, happens to be hearty red sauce Italian at midnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963444\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963444\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: red and purple front facade of a restaurant at nighttime. The sign reads, "Emmy's" in cursive.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Emmys-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant has been open in San Francisco’s Mission Bernal neighborhood for more than 20 years. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Because we arrived a little early, we were able to try the new “Cadillac lasagna” from the regular dinner menu. It was kind of a “deconstructed” version, the pasta sheets arranged in a loose pile rather than cut into a neatly layered square. But the combination of flavors — the rich vodka meat sauce, dollops of sunflower seed pesto and cool ricotta — were just as homey and nostalgic as we’d hoped.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As it turns out, though, it’s easy enough to cobble together a delicious meal ordering exclusively off the new late-night menu, which offers a mix of new dishes and Emmy’s classics. We started with a standard (and perfectly satisfying) version of shrimp cocktail and the crowd favorite cauliflower balls — oozy, stretchy, spherical mozzarella sticks, essentially, with bits of cauliflower mixed in for health (?) and textural interest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>While you can dine at Emmy’s at any time of night and find at least one massive plate of spaghetti and meatballs on every table, the late-night menu gives you the opportunity to order a smaller (but still not exactly petite) order of that red sauce spaghetti — for just $9, with the option to add on a meatball (or vegan meatball). It had been a number of years since I’d had a plate of Emmy’s spaghetti, but we were hooked from the first piping hot, eminently slurpable bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The showstopper is that new meatball hero, which repurposes several of the restaurant’s staple ingredients — vodka sauce, pesto, stretchy cheese and maybe the best meatballs in town — and serves them hot on a toasty sesame roll. The sandwich comes with a little squeeze bottle of Calabrian hot sauce, which you don’t really need. The real pro hack is to scoop some spaghetti into the hero so you get a bit of extra sauciness in every bite. This is it: the Platonic ideal of late-night drunk food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emmy’s hasn’t done a ton of advertising for the new late-night menu on its \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/emmysspaghettishack/\">social media\u003c/a>, and for a while it seemed like maybe we were the only ones who knew about it. But by the time we left, around 11 o’clock, they’d curtained off the front room and turned up the music, and the restaurant had once again started to fill up. The playlist shuffled from MF Doom to Bo Diddley to a plaintive country ballad, and the night owls sipped Cosmos and dug into their plates of spaghetti. And for at least one night, in this one spot, it felt like San Francisco’s late-night scene hadn’t ever died at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://sfspaghettishack.com/\">\u003ci>Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Sun.–Thu. 5–9:30 p.m. and Fri.–Sat. 5 p.m.–midnight at 3230 Mission St. in San Francisco. On Fridays and Saturdays, it serves a special late-night menu starting at 9:30 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "indonesian-high-tea-kopi-bar-sandai-walnut-creek",
"title": "This Indonesian Coffee Shop Puts a Glam Twist on High Tea",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963234\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963234\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Server-plating-Klepon-Indo-Dessert.jpg\" alt=\"A server in a formal black suit serves a platter of pale green rice cakes.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2169\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Server-plating-Klepon-Indo-Dessert.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Server-plating-Klepon-Indo-Dessert-800x904.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Server-plating-Klepon-Indo-Dessert-1020x1152.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Server-plating-Klepon-Indo-Dessert-160x181.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Server-plating-Klepon-Indo-Dessert-768x868.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Server-plating-Klepon-Indo-Dessert-1360x1536.jpg 1360w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Server-plating-Klepon-Indo-Dessert-1813x2048.jpg 1813w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A server serves klepon, a kind of sweet Indonesian rice cake. The treats were part of one of Kopi Bar and Sandai’s Indonesian-inspired high tea events in Walnut Creek. \u003ccite>(Matchbook Media)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The newest contender in the Bay Area’s frill-bedecked world of afternoon tea has all the accoutrements an Anglophile could ask for: dainty finger sandwiches, elegant three-tier cake stands piled high with fresh-baked cakes and pastries and, of course, actually good tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only difference? At \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kopibar.us/\">Kopi Bar\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sandai.us/?hl=en\">SanDai’s\u003c/a> monthly Indonesian-inspired \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C4LmpQuxfEr/\">high tea series\u003c/a> in Walnut Creek, finger sandwiches come spiced up with a hit of sambal. Scones and croissants are infused with pandan or rose syrup. And the tea itself comes sweetened with condensed milk by default, just like how you’d get it in Singapore or Malaysia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The events are the brainchild of chef Nora Haron, and they’re very much in keeping with Haron’s overarching vision for Cali-\u003ca href=\"https://www.worldgastronomy.org/post/nusantara-cuisine-food-that-transcends-southeast-asia-s-borders\">Nusantara\u003c/a> cuisine — food that draws on the flavors of the region encompassing Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore. In March of 2023, Haron and owner Amanda Toh Steckler opened Kopi Bar as an Indonesian-inspired coffee shop, specializing in croissants and other \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C6umOYoLy0N/\">Western pastries that incorporate Nusantara flavors and ingredients\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963231\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963231\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/sandai-high-tea-crop.jpg\" alt=\"A three-tiered cake stand loaded with pastries and finger sandwiches.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1375\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/sandai-high-tea-crop.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/sandai-high-tea-crop-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/sandai-high-tea-crop-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/sandai-high-tea-crop-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/sandai-high-tea-crop-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/sandai-high-tea-crop-1536x1056.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/sandai-high-tea-crop-1920x1320.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pastries and finger sandwiches are infused with Nusantara ingredients like pandan and sambal. \u003ccite>(Matchbook Media)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Inspired by coffee culture in Bali, she also creates original drinks for the shop, like a coconut cappuccino and the “Kopi Avocado” — a blend of fresh avocado, coconut condensed milk and espresso. “It’s so, so good, and we sell so much of it,” Haron says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just a week after Kopi Bar’s launch, Haron and Toh Steckler opened \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sandai.us/?hl=en\">SanDai\u003c/a>, a full-fledged Nusantara Californian restaurant, right next door. It’s one of a handful of new spots in the East Bay serving modern, California-inflected interpretations of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962220/fikscue-best-indonesian-texas-barbecue-smoked-brisket-alameda\">Indonesian\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13895713/lion-dance-cafe-shawarmaji-vegan-shawarma-seitan-oakland\">Singaporean\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13953078/curry-puff-malaysian-damansara-sf-noe-valley\">Malaysian\u003c/a> food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The high tea events — which are really \u003ca href=\"https://www.thespruceeats.com/afternoon-vs-high-tea-difference-435327\">afternoon tea, if we’re being technical\u003c/a> — were born during a rough patch this past spring, when walk-in business had slowed to a trickle at both the coffee shop and restaurant. International Women’s Day was coming up on March 8, and Haron thought about the women in her life who love going out for afternoon tea. Back in Singapore, where she grew up, British-style tea parties were a hugely popular remnant of the island’s colonial history. She remembers attending a particularly grand high tea at Raffles Hotel where they served local foods — mee goreng and nasi lemak — along with little Western finger sandwiches and desserts. There, too, well-dressed guests would sip their tea with their pinkies out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, Haron thought, “I want to do a one-day high tea to celebrate women — just one day, let’s do it.” After she \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C3-2ZMcP5fH/?img_index=1\">posted the event\u003c/a>, tickets sold out by the end of the day. Thinking she might be onto something, she scheduled a high tea service every week for the rest of March — and the entire run sold out in two days. Now held on a monthly basis, the high tea series continues to rank among the restaurant’s most popular events. Earlier this summer, after the new season of \u003ci>Bridgerton \u003c/i>came out, Haron put together two \u003ci>Bridgerton\u003c/i>-themed tea parties, and “Oh my God, that thing went nuts,” she says. The outfits alone were \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C8VpXMvvaU-/?img_index=3\">a sight to behold\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The newest edition of the series has a Bollywood theme. Haron says she had the Indian diaspora on her mind after watching recent footage of the ultra-glamorous, Bollywood star–studded \u003ca href=\"https://www.vanityfair.com/style/story/inside-600-million-dollar-ambani-wedding-jewels-stars-party\">Ambani wedding\u003c/a> (“I was obsessed with it!”) and because of Vice President Kamala Harris’s emergent presidential campaign. (Haron is of Indonesian-Indian descent; her grandfathers on both sides of the family were Indian.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963238\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963238\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/High-Tea-Guests-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Guests in formal attire seated at a long table covered with candles and three-tier cake stands.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/High-Tea-Guests-2-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/High-Tea-Guests-2-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/High-Tea-Guests-2-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/High-Tea-Guests-2-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/High-Tea-Guests-2-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/High-Tea-Guests-2-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/High-Tea-Guests-2-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The scene at a ‘Bridgerton’-inspired high tea earlier this summer. \u003ccite>(Matchbook Media)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>More than anything, the Bollywood event is meant to be a lot of fun. The tea parties take place in SanDai’s sunny front room with open French doors, and Haron says she goes all out for the tablescapes and decor. For this edition, she expects many of the attendees will come decked out in their finest saris and lehengas. A Bollywood dance instructor will give guests a crash course in the expressive, high-energy moves they may have seen in their favorite Indian blockbusters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13962220,arts_13953078,arts_13908798']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Foodwise, Haron says the Indian theme nods to the deep influence of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916794/azalina-malaysian-restaurant-reopening-tenderloin\">Mamak (i.e. Tamil Muslim with roots in India) cuisine\u003c/a> in Malaysia and Singapore. As with her previous high tea events, Haron will serve a full three-tier spread of California-Indonesian pastries, cakes and finger sandwiches, except with more Indian flavors. The hot ginger tea with condensed milk will be spiked with cardamom. Finger sandwiches will feature chicken curry instead of chicken with sambal, and cucumber chutney instead of plain cucumber. There will also be samosas, mee goreng (a Mamak Malaysian noodle stir-fry) and lentils with roti. Nearby restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/the_essence_cuisine/\">The Essence\u003c/a> will supply a variety of Indian sweets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The event is likely to sell out quickly, Haron says, but those who miss out this time can look forward to similarly sumptuous takes on afternoon tea in the coming months — a reprise of the Bollywood theme, perhaps, and an \u003ci>Arabian Nights\u003c/i>-inspired cross-cultural edition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“And I would love to do a full-blown Indonesian one where everyone comes in their \u003ca href=\"https://www.tatlerasia.com/style/fashion/8-indonesian-women-who-nailed-the-trendy-kebaya-look\">kebaya\u003c/a>,” Haron says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C-35gs8Ptrh/\">\u003ci>Bollywood High Tea\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> at SanDai and Kopi Bar will take place on Sunday, Sept. 1, noon–2 p.m., at 1526 N. Main St. in Walnut Creek. A limited number of tickets ($65) are available online via \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/bollywood-high-tea-and-brunch-experience-walnut-creek-tickets-989719847707?aff=oddtdtcreator\">\u003ci>Eventbrite\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. The set menu includes a mimosa (or Prosecco) and a choice of coffee or tea. For updates on future high tea events, follow \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sandai.us/?hl=en\">\u003ci>SanDai\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> and \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kopibar.us/\">\u003ci>Kopi Bar\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> on Instagram.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963234\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963234\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Server-plating-Klepon-Indo-Dessert.jpg\" alt=\"A server in a formal black suit serves a platter of pale green rice cakes.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2169\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Server-plating-Klepon-Indo-Dessert.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Server-plating-Klepon-Indo-Dessert-800x904.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Server-plating-Klepon-Indo-Dessert-1020x1152.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Server-plating-Klepon-Indo-Dessert-160x181.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Server-plating-Klepon-Indo-Dessert-768x868.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Server-plating-Klepon-Indo-Dessert-1360x1536.jpg 1360w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Server-plating-Klepon-Indo-Dessert-1813x2048.jpg 1813w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A server serves klepon, a kind of sweet Indonesian rice cake. The treats were part of one of Kopi Bar and Sandai’s Indonesian-inspired high tea events in Walnut Creek. \u003ccite>(Matchbook Media)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The newest contender in the Bay Area’s frill-bedecked world of afternoon tea has all the accoutrements an Anglophile could ask for: dainty finger sandwiches, elegant three-tier cake stands piled high with fresh-baked cakes and pastries and, of course, actually good tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only difference? At \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kopibar.us/\">Kopi Bar\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sandai.us/?hl=en\">SanDai’s\u003c/a> monthly Indonesian-inspired \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C4LmpQuxfEr/\">high tea series\u003c/a> in Walnut Creek, finger sandwiches come spiced up with a hit of sambal. Scones and croissants are infused with pandan or rose syrup. And the tea itself comes sweetened with condensed milk by default, just like how you’d get it in Singapore or Malaysia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The events are the brainchild of chef Nora Haron, and they’re very much in keeping with Haron’s overarching vision for Cali-\u003ca href=\"https://www.worldgastronomy.org/post/nusantara-cuisine-food-that-transcends-southeast-asia-s-borders\">Nusantara\u003c/a> cuisine — food that draws on the flavors of the region encompassing Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore. In March of 2023, Haron and owner Amanda Toh Steckler opened Kopi Bar as an Indonesian-inspired coffee shop, specializing in croissants and other \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C6umOYoLy0N/\">Western pastries that incorporate Nusantara flavors and ingredients\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963231\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963231\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/sandai-high-tea-crop.jpg\" alt=\"A three-tiered cake stand loaded with pastries and finger sandwiches.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1375\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/sandai-high-tea-crop.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/sandai-high-tea-crop-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/sandai-high-tea-crop-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/sandai-high-tea-crop-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/sandai-high-tea-crop-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/sandai-high-tea-crop-1536x1056.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/sandai-high-tea-crop-1920x1320.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pastries and finger sandwiches are infused with Nusantara ingredients like pandan and sambal. \u003ccite>(Matchbook Media)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Inspired by coffee culture in Bali, she also creates original drinks for the shop, like a coconut cappuccino and the “Kopi Avocado” — a blend of fresh avocado, coconut condensed milk and espresso. “It’s so, so good, and we sell so much of it,” Haron says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just a week after Kopi Bar’s launch, Haron and Toh Steckler opened \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sandai.us/?hl=en\">SanDai\u003c/a>, a full-fledged Nusantara Californian restaurant, right next door. It’s one of a handful of new spots in the East Bay serving modern, California-inflected interpretations of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962220/fikscue-best-indonesian-texas-barbecue-smoked-brisket-alameda\">Indonesian\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13895713/lion-dance-cafe-shawarmaji-vegan-shawarma-seitan-oakland\">Singaporean\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13953078/curry-puff-malaysian-damansara-sf-noe-valley\">Malaysian\u003c/a> food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The high tea events — which are really \u003ca href=\"https://www.thespruceeats.com/afternoon-vs-high-tea-difference-435327\">afternoon tea, if we’re being technical\u003c/a> — were born during a rough patch this past spring, when walk-in business had slowed to a trickle at both the coffee shop and restaurant. International Women’s Day was coming up on March 8, and Haron thought about the women in her life who love going out for afternoon tea. Back in Singapore, where she grew up, British-style tea parties were a hugely popular remnant of the island’s colonial history. She remembers attending a particularly grand high tea at Raffles Hotel where they served local foods — mee goreng and nasi lemak — along with little Western finger sandwiches and desserts. There, too, well-dressed guests would sip their tea with their pinkies out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, Haron thought, “I want to do a one-day high tea to celebrate women — just one day, let’s do it.” After she \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C3-2ZMcP5fH/?img_index=1\">posted the event\u003c/a>, tickets sold out by the end of the day. Thinking she might be onto something, she scheduled a high tea service every week for the rest of March — and the entire run sold out in two days. Now held on a monthly basis, the high tea series continues to rank among the restaurant’s most popular events. Earlier this summer, after the new season of \u003ci>Bridgerton \u003c/i>came out, Haron put together two \u003ci>Bridgerton\u003c/i>-themed tea parties, and “Oh my God, that thing went nuts,” she says. The outfits alone were \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C8VpXMvvaU-/?img_index=3\">a sight to behold\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The newest edition of the series has a Bollywood theme. Haron says she had the Indian diaspora on her mind after watching recent footage of the ultra-glamorous, Bollywood star–studded \u003ca href=\"https://www.vanityfair.com/style/story/inside-600-million-dollar-ambani-wedding-jewels-stars-party\">Ambani wedding\u003c/a> (“I was obsessed with it!”) and because of Vice President Kamala Harris’s emergent presidential campaign. (Haron is of Indonesian-Indian descent; her grandfathers on both sides of the family were Indian.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963238\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963238\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/High-Tea-Guests-2-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Guests in formal attire seated at a long table covered with candles and three-tier cake stands.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/High-Tea-Guests-2-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/High-Tea-Guests-2-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/High-Tea-Guests-2-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/High-Tea-Guests-2-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/High-Tea-Guests-2-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/High-Tea-Guests-2-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/High-Tea-Guests-2-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The scene at a ‘Bridgerton’-inspired high tea earlier this summer. \u003ccite>(Matchbook Media)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>More than anything, the Bollywood event is meant to be a lot of fun. The tea parties take place in SanDai’s sunny front room with open French doors, and Haron says she goes all out for the tablescapes and decor. For this edition, she expects many of the attendees will come decked out in their finest saris and lehengas. A Bollywood dance instructor will give guests a crash course in the expressive, high-energy moves they may have seen in their favorite Indian blockbusters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Foodwise, Haron says the Indian theme nods to the deep influence of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13916794/azalina-malaysian-restaurant-reopening-tenderloin\">Mamak (i.e. Tamil Muslim with roots in India) cuisine\u003c/a> in Malaysia and Singapore. As with her previous high tea events, Haron will serve a full three-tier spread of California-Indonesian pastries, cakes and finger sandwiches, except with more Indian flavors. The hot ginger tea with condensed milk will be spiked with cardamom. Finger sandwiches will feature chicken curry instead of chicken with sambal, and cucumber chutney instead of plain cucumber. There will also be samosas, mee goreng (a Mamak Malaysian noodle stir-fry) and lentils with roti. Nearby restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/the_essence_cuisine/\">The Essence\u003c/a> will supply a variety of Indian sweets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The event is likely to sell out quickly, Haron says, but those who miss out this time can look forward to similarly sumptuous takes on afternoon tea in the coming months — a reprise of the Bollywood theme, perhaps, and an \u003ci>Arabian Nights\u003c/i>-inspired cross-cultural edition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“And I would love to do a full-blown Indonesian one where everyone comes in their \u003ca href=\"https://www.tatlerasia.com/style/fashion/8-indonesian-women-who-nailed-the-trendy-kebaya-look\">kebaya\u003c/a>,” Haron says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C-35gs8Ptrh/\">\u003ci>Bollywood High Tea\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> at SanDai and Kopi Bar will take place on Sunday, Sept. 1, noon–2 p.m., at 1526 N. Main St. in Walnut Creek. A limited number of tickets ($65) are available online via \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/bollywood-high-tea-and-brunch-experience-walnut-creek-tickets-989719847707?aff=oddtdtcreator\">\u003ci>Eventbrite\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. The set menu includes a mimosa (or Prosecco) and a choice of coffee or tea. For updates on future high tea events, follow \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sandai.us/?hl=en\">\u003ci>SanDai\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> and \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kopibar.us/\">\u003ci>Kopi Bar\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> on Instagram.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "This All-You-Can-Eat Cajun Crab Buffet Is for Serious Eaters Only",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963096\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963096\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supreme-crab.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men look starry-eyed with happiness as they devour plates of crab, shimp and other seafood.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supreme-crab.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supreme-crab-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supreme-crab-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supreme-crab-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supreme-crab-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supreme-crab-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Redwood City’s Supreme Crab Buffet is known for its Cajun-style crab legs. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They say that \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/5/19/21259918/sweet-tomatoes-hometown-buffet-silicon-valley-asian-american\">COVID killed the buffet restaurant\u003c/a>. But don’t tell that to the dozens of eager seafood lovers we saw standing in line at Supreme Crab Buffet at 9 o’clock on a Friday night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’d been searching for an all-you-can-eat spot that was open late, and this popular Redwood City Asian Cajun spot seemed to check all the boxes: It features two serve-yourself hot food buffet counters, a salad bar, a dessert station, and, oh, did I mention that the crab legs, too, are all-you-can-eat? All that for just over $30 a person, and it’s open until 10:30 every night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that the place has the cheesy charm of a theme restaurant — a super-sized inflatable crawfish that greets you at the door, and all manner of maritime paraphernalia — is just an added bonus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even more than your average buffet restaurant, Supreme Crab isn’t for the faint of heart. At about half past 9, no one in Supreme Crab Buffet’s dining room looked like they had come to partake in fun conversation. These were serious eaters only. A sisterhood of pre-loosened pants strings. A convocation of hawk-eyed killers ready to clear that fresh tray of crab legs as soon as it hit the buffet counter. (Special shout-out to the \u003ci>solo\u003c/i> diners at a buffet restaurant, like the slender Filipino gentleman we saw who appeared to be loading plate after plate with crawfish exclusively. That guy will eat you under the table.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any AYCE enthusiast can tell you about the folly of hitting up a buffet without a strategy, which is to say, without a firm commitment to avoid filling up on low-value carbs. And Supreme Crab does offer plenty of carb options to tempt you: garlic bread, fried rice, potstickers, at least two or three different kinds of potato and, for some reason (it’s a trap!), pizza. The two I couldn’t resist were the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13900855/garlic-noodles-sf-bay-area-iconic-foods-thanh-long-smellys\">garlic noodles\u003c/a> and the plain white rice, both of which go so well with all of that saucy, spicy seafood — especially when you ladle a little bit of extra garlic butter or Cajun sauce on top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The two main hot food counters are laden with many of the staple dishes you can find at any Asian American buffet: beef and broccoli, teriyaki chicken, General Tso’s and a panoply of assorted batter-fried things. There were dim sum–style sesame balls. There were leathery kalbi-style short ribs. There was even a whole corner of the salad bar dedicated to Korean banchan — a tasty baby octopus salad and better-than-you’d-expect kimchi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963099\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963099\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supremecrab2.jpg\" alt=\"An giant inflatable crawfish decorates a restaurant's front entrance.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supremecrab2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supremecrab2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supremecrab2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supremecrab2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supremecrab2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supremecrab2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Supreme Crab has the cheesy charm of a theme restaurant. It’s open until 10:30 p.m. daily. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Listen: You should eat whatever you love. But in our professional opinion, you’re wasting precious stomach space if you stray too far away from Supreme Crab’s most prized offerings — its many different varieties of shellfish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13962759,arts_13954983,arts_13956683']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>In this regard, the restaurant more than met our expectations. We piled our plates high with crawfish and juicy garlic-butter clams. We must have taken down a dozen cheesy mussels, that Asian buffet staple, each plump specimen topped with a comforting layer of mayo and Parmesan. And we feasted on a half-dozen different varieties of shrimp, each one more delicious than the last: cocktail shrimp; easy-peel garlic-butter shrimp; crispy salt-and-pepper shrimp whose heads we bit off and devoured, shells and all; and head-on Cajun seafood boil–style shrimp, whose juices were especially tasty soaked into a mound of steamed rice. We left a fearsome stack of crustacean carcasses in our wake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(You can also order your seafood boil by the bag, a la carte, if that seems like a better value proposition for your party — or if you like your crawfish spicier than the relatively mild heat level they default to on the buffet table.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of it was great, but none greater than the restaurant’s biggest star attraction: the long and spindly snow crab legs, whose tray at the buffet station we monitored at all times so we could snag a plateful whenever the staff unloaded a fresh supply. (This is a “snooze you lose” situation; we watched a whole batch get cleared out in less than 10 minutes.) These, too, were cooked Cajun-style, with lots of garlic and a mild chili heat. We’d suck all the flavor off of the shell, then work our forks inside, jostling them around until it popped open. When we did it just right, the crab’s sweet, succulent flesh would pull out intact, ready to be dipped in butter or lemon juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For certain immigrant communities in the Bay, in particular, there’s no bite of food that feels more luxurious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which is maybe a good time to mention that Supreme Crab Buffet was one of the most diverse restaurants we’ve visited recently, with an even split of Black, brown and Asian American customers. Here in the multicultural Bay Area, it seems, there are few things that bring our communities together quite like the promise of all-you-can-eat crab legs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For anyone who’s ever gone out to eat at a trendy upscale restaurant, looked around the lily-white dining room and wondered, “Where are all my POC at?” — the answer might be that they’ve got their disposable gloves on and are absolutely going to town on a big plate of seafood at Supreme Crab. And they’re probably having a better time than you.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/supremecrabbuffet/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Supreme Crab Buffet\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Mon.–Sat. 11 a.m.–10:30 p.m. and Sun. 10 a.m.–10:30 p.m. at 373 Main St. in Redwood City. (The buffet stations close at around 10 p.m.) There’s also a \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/supremecrabbuffet/?hl=en\">\u003ci>San Francisco location\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, in Fisherman’s Wharf, that isn’t open as late.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963096\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963096\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supreme-crab.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men look starry-eyed with happiness as they devour plates of crab, shimp and other seafood.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supreme-crab.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supreme-crab-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supreme-crab-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supreme-crab-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supreme-crab-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supreme-crab-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Redwood City’s Supreme Crab Buffet is known for its Cajun-style crab legs. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They say that \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/5/19/21259918/sweet-tomatoes-hometown-buffet-silicon-valley-asian-american\">COVID killed the buffet restaurant\u003c/a>. But don’t tell that to the dozens of eager seafood lovers we saw standing in line at Supreme Crab Buffet at 9 o’clock on a Friday night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’d been searching for an all-you-can-eat spot that was open late, and this popular Redwood City Asian Cajun spot seemed to check all the boxes: It features two serve-yourself hot food buffet counters, a salad bar, a dessert station, and, oh, did I mention that the crab legs, too, are all-you-can-eat? All that for just over $30 a person, and it’s open until 10:30 every night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that the place has the cheesy charm of a theme restaurant — a super-sized inflatable crawfish that greets you at the door, and all manner of maritime paraphernalia — is just an added bonus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even more than your average buffet restaurant, Supreme Crab isn’t for the faint of heart. At about half past 9, no one in Supreme Crab Buffet’s dining room looked like they had come to partake in fun conversation. These were serious eaters only. A sisterhood of pre-loosened pants strings. A convocation of hawk-eyed killers ready to clear that fresh tray of crab legs as soon as it hit the buffet counter. (Special shout-out to the \u003ci>solo\u003c/i> diners at a buffet restaurant, like the slender Filipino gentleman we saw who appeared to be loading plate after plate with crawfish exclusively. That guy will eat you under the table.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any AYCE enthusiast can tell you about the folly of hitting up a buffet without a strategy, which is to say, without a firm commitment to avoid filling up on low-value carbs. And Supreme Crab does offer plenty of carb options to tempt you: garlic bread, fried rice, potstickers, at least two or three different kinds of potato and, for some reason (it’s a trap!), pizza. The two I couldn’t resist were the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13900855/garlic-noodles-sf-bay-area-iconic-foods-thanh-long-smellys\">garlic noodles\u003c/a> and the plain white rice, both of which go so well with all of that saucy, spicy seafood — especially when you ladle a little bit of extra garlic butter or Cajun sauce on top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The two main hot food counters are laden with many of the staple dishes you can find at any Asian American buffet: beef and broccoli, teriyaki chicken, General Tso’s and a panoply of assorted batter-fried things. There were dim sum–style sesame balls. There were leathery kalbi-style short ribs. There was even a whole corner of the salad bar dedicated to Korean banchan — a tasty baby octopus salad and better-than-you’d-expect kimchi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963099\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963099\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supremecrab2.jpg\" alt=\"An giant inflatable crawfish decorates a restaurant's front entrance.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supremecrab2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supremecrab2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supremecrab2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supremecrab2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supremecrab2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/supremecrab2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Supreme Crab has the cheesy charm of a theme restaurant. It’s open until 10:30 p.m. daily. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Listen: You should eat whatever you love. But in our professional opinion, you’re wasting precious stomach space if you stray too far away from Supreme Crab’s most prized offerings — its many different varieties of shellfish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>In this regard, the restaurant more than met our expectations. We piled our plates high with crawfish and juicy garlic-butter clams. We must have taken down a dozen cheesy mussels, that Asian buffet staple, each plump specimen topped with a comforting layer of mayo and Parmesan. And we feasted on a half-dozen different varieties of shrimp, each one more delicious than the last: cocktail shrimp; easy-peel garlic-butter shrimp; crispy salt-and-pepper shrimp whose heads we bit off and devoured, shells and all; and head-on Cajun seafood boil–style shrimp, whose juices were especially tasty soaked into a mound of steamed rice. We left a fearsome stack of crustacean carcasses in our wake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(You can also order your seafood boil by the bag, a la carte, if that seems like a better value proposition for your party — or if you like your crawfish spicier than the relatively mild heat level they default to on the buffet table.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of it was great, but none greater than the restaurant’s biggest star attraction: the long and spindly snow crab legs, whose tray at the buffet station we monitored at all times so we could snag a plateful whenever the staff unloaded a fresh supply. (This is a “snooze you lose” situation; we watched a whole batch get cleared out in less than 10 minutes.) These, too, were cooked Cajun-style, with lots of garlic and a mild chili heat. We’d suck all the flavor off of the shell, then work our forks inside, jostling them around until it popped open. When we did it just right, the crab’s sweet, succulent flesh would pull out intact, ready to be dipped in butter or lemon juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For certain immigrant communities in the Bay, in particular, there’s no bite of food that feels more luxurious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which is maybe a good time to mention that Supreme Crab Buffet was one of the most diverse restaurants we’ve visited recently, with an even split of Black, brown and Asian American customers. Here in the multicultural Bay Area, it seems, there are few things that bring our communities together quite like the promise of all-you-can-eat crab legs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For anyone who’s ever gone out to eat at a trendy upscale restaurant, looked around the lily-white dining room and wondered, “Where are all my POC at?” — the answer might be that they’ve got their disposable gloves on and are absolutely going to town on a big plate of seafood at Supreme Crab. And they’re probably having a better time than you.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/supremecrabbuffet/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Supreme Crab Buffet\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Mon.–Sat. 11 a.m.–10:30 p.m. and Sun. 10 a.m.–10:30 p.m. at 373 Main St. in Redwood City. (The buffet stations close at around 10 p.m.) There’s also a \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/supremecrabbuffet/?hl=en\">\u003ci>San Francisco location\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, in Fisherman’s Wharf, that isn’t open as late.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962763\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962763\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Viridian, we filled every available inch of our assigned counter space with plates and bowls piled high with food. The Oakland bar is best known for its cocktails. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The list of Bay Area hotspots that I don’t feel cool enough to frequent is too long to enumerate, but suffice it to say that \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/viridianbar/\">Viridian\u003c/a>, Uptown Oakland’s sleek Asian American cocktail bar, is near the top. With its pulsing electronic music, purple-pink neon glow, abundance of paper lanterns and psychedelic light show projected onto the walls, the vibe at Viridian is somewhere between a moody Wong Kar-wai film set (one of the owners’ \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/2/3/21119819/viridian-uptown-oakland-bar-cocktails-desserts-asian-photos\">stated inspirations\u003c/a>) and a particularly stylish rave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The main thing you notice, though, is how impeccably cool and well-dressed everyone is, from the bar staff to the patrons. Viridian draws an ethnically diverse crowd, but the clientele does skew young (20s and 30s), and it especially skews toward the demographic I’ve always referred to as the Cool Asian, in every single strand: good-looking Cool Asians in designer black-framed glasses, in muscle shirts or showing off intricate full sleeve tattoos. Cool Asians wearing trucker hats or vintage Japanese denim.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The one thing that made us feel we hadn’t come to the wrong place at 9 o’clock on a Friday night? The fact that the bar also serves some of Oakland’s best late-night food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To be fair, Viridian only qualifies as a late-night restaurant if you’re grading on a bit of a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13951382/chinese-skewers-are-the-last-bastion-of-late-night-dining-in-the-bay\">Bay Area curve\u003c/a>. The bar is always open late, so you can stay and nibble at your plate of garlic noodles for as long as you like. But the latest the kitchen ever stays open is 10 p.m., and that’s only on weekends. During our recent visit, a server started politely collecting last-call orders at 9:30 sharp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not that it mattered much: We appeared to be the only customers in the entire bustling, fully packed bar who had ordered any food whatsoever. No one else had purchased even a single lonely bowl of tater tots. Meanwhile, in typical fashion, we’d filled every available inch of our assigned counter space with plates and bowls piled high with braised meats and pickled greens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyway, I get it. The vibes at Viridian are great, and the cocktails are spectacular — and I say this as someone who’d never describe themselves as a cocktail person. The signature Tomato Beef, a magically crystal-clear tequila drink that tastes like the purest essence of a ripe summer tomato, might be my favorite cocktail in the Bay Area. For a change of pace, this time I tried the Cafe Sữa Đáddy, a jet-black iced coffee concoction topped with a thick, fluffy cloud of egg foam. It was dangerously sweet and smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What we’re here to tell you, though, is that you shouldn’t skip out on the food — that, in fact, Viridian is well worth a dinner or after-dinner-snack visit even if you don’t drink at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962765\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962765\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian2.jpg\" alt=\"Exterior facade of Viridian cocktail bar at night, lit up inside in purple neon.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The vibe at Viridian is somewhere between a moody Wong Kar-wai film set and a particularly stylish rave. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This is at least the third or fourth permutation that Viridian’s distinctly Asian American food program has gone through. When the bar first opened in early 2020, just a month before the start of the pandemic, it served almost exclusively desserts — elegant pandan custard pies and Thai tea tiramisu. It went through a period when the kitchen mostly served fancy reinterpretations of dim sum, and then various stretches when every intricately plated dish would have looked right at home at any three-star palace of fine dining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The current food menu, which launched just a few weeks ago, is probably the simplest, most bar-snacky edition yet, leaning toward homey diasporic Asian flavors in a way we found especially enjoyable. There was piping-hot “mala spice chicken tempura,” which turned out to be spicy chicken nuggets, essentially, served with a carrot-flecked sweet chili dipping sauce — but such a tasty rendition that McDonald’s really should have consulted with \u003ci>them\u003c/i> before launching its own tepid version. There were tater tots served with a sour cream, chili crisp and chive dip. It wasn’t anything fancy, but a must-order for anyone who likes munching on hot, crunchy carbs when they drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13962340,arts_13961997,arts_13956218']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Our favorite dish might have been the huge mound of cucumbers that came coated with a thick layer of fiery, extra-crunchy chili crunch — the ideal bar snack. As delicious as it was, the portion was so abundant that we still wound up taking half of it home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the best thing to order if you want a hearty \u003ci>dinner-\u003c/i>dinner, or to just sample a few different things, is the donburi. The rice bowl comes topped with a generous portion of mirin-glazed pork, crushed peanuts, pickled mustard greens topped with pork floss, and fresh cilantro. Taken all together, it was just like eating a deconstructed gua bao (pork belly bun) — pure comfort to my Taiwanese American soul.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We must have looked like we were having a good time, because toward the end of the night, one of those Cool Asians (black dress, tattoos) sitting just down the counter from us leaned over to ask what we’d recommend from the food menu. She and her date had already eaten before they came, but they’d noticed how delicious we made everything look when we were eating it. (This is, in the end, our one specialized skill.) So, we talked up the cucumbers, and the donburi, and the chicken, and…\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“So everything’s good,” she said, laughing. And you could tell she believed us, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://www.viridianbar.com/\">Viridian\u003c/a> is open Fri.–Sat. 5 p.m.–2 a.m. and Wed., Thu. and Sun. 5 p.m.–midnight at 2216 Broadway in Oakland. The kitchen closes at 9 p.m. except for on Fridays and Saturdays, when it’s open until 10 p.m. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962763\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962763\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Viridian, we filled every available inch of our assigned counter space with plates and bowls piled high with food. The Oakland bar is best known for its cocktails. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The list of Bay Area hotspots that I don’t feel cool enough to frequent is too long to enumerate, but suffice it to say that \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/viridianbar/\">Viridian\u003c/a>, Uptown Oakland’s sleek Asian American cocktail bar, is near the top. With its pulsing electronic music, purple-pink neon glow, abundance of paper lanterns and psychedelic light show projected onto the walls, the vibe at Viridian is somewhere between a moody Wong Kar-wai film set (one of the owners’ \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/2/3/21119819/viridian-uptown-oakland-bar-cocktails-desserts-asian-photos\">stated inspirations\u003c/a>) and a particularly stylish rave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The main thing you notice, though, is how impeccably cool and well-dressed everyone is, from the bar staff to the patrons. Viridian draws an ethnically diverse crowd, but the clientele does skew young (20s and 30s), and it especially skews toward the demographic I’ve always referred to as the Cool Asian, in every single strand: good-looking Cool Asians in designer black-framed glasses, in muscle shirts or showing off intricate full sleeve tattoos. Cool Asians wearing trucker hats or vintage Japanese denim.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The one thing that made us feel we hadn’t come to the wrong place at 9 o’clock on a Friday night? The fact that the bar also serves some of Oakland’s best late-night food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To be fair, Viridian only qualifies as a late-night restaurant if you’re grading on a bit of a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13951382/chinese-skewers-are-the-last-bastion-of-late-night-dining-in-the-bay\">Bay Area curve\u003c/a>. The bar is always open late, so you can stay and nibble at your plate of garlic noodles for as long as you like. But the latest the kitchen ever stays open is 10 p.m., and that’s only on weekends. During our recent visit, a server started politely collecting last-call orders at 9:30 sharp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not that it mattered much: We appeared to be the only customers in the entire bustling, fully packed bar who had ordered any food whatsoever. No one else had purchased even a single lonely bowl of tater tots. Meanwhile, in typical fashion, we’d filled every available inch of our assigned counter space with plates and bowls piled high with braised meats and pickled greens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyway, I get it. The vibes at Viridian are great, and the cocktails are spectacular — and I say this as someone who’d never describe themselves as a cocktail person. The signature Tomato Beef, a magically crystal-clear tequila drink that tastes like the purest essence of a ripe summer tomato, might be my favorite cocktail in the Bay Area. For a change of pace, this time I tried the Cafe Sữa Đáddy, a jet-black iced coffee concoction topped with a thick, fluffy cloud of egg foam. It was dangerously sweet and smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What we’re here to tell you, though, is that you shouldn’t skip out on the food — that, in fact, Viridian is well worth a dinner or after-dinner-snack visit even if you don’t drink at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962765\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962765\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian2.jpg\" alt=\"Exterior facade of Viridian cocktail bar at night, lit up inside in purple neon.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Viridian2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The vibe at Viridian is somewhere between a moody Wong Kar-wai film set and a particularly stylish rave. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This is at least the third or fourth permutation that Viridian’s distinctly Asian American food program has gone through. When the bar first opened in early 2020, just a month before the start of the pandemic, it served almost exclusively desserts — elegant pandan custard pies and Thai tea tiramisu. It went through a period when the kitchen mostly served fancy reinterpretations of dim sum, and then various stretches when every intricately plated dish would have looked right at home at any three-star palace of fine dining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The current food menu, which launched just a few weeks ago, is probably the simplest, most bar-snacky edition yet, leaning toward homey diasporic Asian flavors in a way we found especially enjoyable. There was piping-hot “mala spice chicken tempura,” which turned out to be spicy chicken nuggets, essentially, served with a carrot-flecked sweet chili dipping sauce — but such a tasty rendition that McDonald’s really should have consulted with \u003ci>them\u003c/i> before launching its own tepid version. There were tater tots served with a sour cream, chili crisp and chive dip. It wasn’t anything fancy, but a must-order for anyone who likes munching on hot, crunchy carbs when they drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Our favorite dish might have been the huge mound of cucumbers that came coated with a thick layer of fiery, extra-crunchy chili crunch — the ideal bar snack. As delicious as it was, the portion was so abundant that we still wound up taking half of it home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the best thing to order if you want a hearty \u003ci>dinner-\u003c/i>dinner, or to just sample a few different things, is the donburi. The rice bowl comes topped with a generous portion of mirin-glazed pork, crushed peanuts, pickled mustard greens topped with pork floss, and fresh cilantro. Taken all together, it was just like eating a deconstructed gua bao (pork belly bun) — pure comfort to my Taiwanese American soul.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We must have looked like we were having a good time, because toward the end of the night, one of those Cool Asians (black dress, tattoos) sitting just down the counter from us leaned over to ask what we’d recommend from the food menu. She and her date had already eaten before they came, but they’d noticed how delicious we made everything look when we were eating it. (This is, in the end, our one specialized skill.) So, we talked up the cucumbers, and the donburi, and the chicken, and…\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“So everything’s good,” she said, laughing. And you could tell she believed us, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://www.viridianbar.com/\">Viridian\u003c/a> is open Fri.–Sat. 5 p.m.–2 a.m. and Wed., Thu. and Sun. 5 p.m.–midnight at 2216 Broadway in Oakland. The kitchen closes at 9 p.m. except for on Fridays and Saturdays, when it’s open until 10 p.m. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "habibi-palestinian-ceramics-keffiyeh-reems-port-of-mokha-campbell",
"title": "Meet the Palestinian Artist Making Keffiyeh-Inspired Ceramics for Bay Area Restaurants",
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"content": "\u003cp>Even while she dreamed of numbers at her job in corporate tech, Nadia Elgan would fawn over elegant hand-poured ceramics. On her honeymoon in Cuba, she made her husband take her to all the local pottery studios they passed. And after her daughter was born, something in her succumbed to that desire to make something with her hands. Her first time at the wheel while on a ceramics studio date night sealed the deal: It was love at first touch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962376\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-13962376\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/nadia-elgan-portrait-1020x1530.jpg\" alt=\"A ceramicist in a pink jumpsuit poses for a portrait while looking down at a large pink bowl.\" width=\"640\" height=\"960\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/nadia-elgan-portrait-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/nadia-elgan-portrait-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/nadia-elgan-portrait-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/nadia-elgan-portrait-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/nadia-elgan-portrait-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/nadia-elgan-portrait-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/nadia-elgan-portrait-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Palestinian Filipina ceramicist Nadia Elgan left a career in corporate tech to start her own ceramics studio. \u003ccite>(Céline Steen, courtesy of Habibi)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now throwing at her own studio, \u003ca href=\"https://habibiceramics.com/\">Habibi Ceramics\u003c/a>, the Campbell-based Palestinian Filipina ceramicist — “Pali-Pina” as she describes herself — has designed cups and plates for popular Bay Area restaurants and cafes like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reemscalifornia/\">Reem’s\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.thecaffeoak.com/\">the Caffè by Mr. Espresso\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lately, Elgan’s art has turned toward Gaza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In June, she released her \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C78ongDuU6o/\">Falastin series\u003c/a> at West Coast Craft’s summer crafts market. The \u003ca href=\"https://habibiceramics.com/products/keffiyeh-cup\">cups\u003c/a> and plates are polka-dotted in a black-and-white pattern reminiscent of a keffiyeh scarf, one of the most visible displays of Palestinian resistance. In an era dominated by mass production, she throws each piece by hand, imbuing it with a sense of place and purpose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The keffiyeh-inspired Falastin collection is now available for purchase via \u003ca href=\"https://habibiceramics.com/products/keffiyeh-cup\">Habibi Ceramics’ website\u003c/a> and at superstar chef Reem Assil’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.reemscalifornia.com/\">two San Francisco restaurants\u003c/a>, on Mission Street and in the Ferry Building, with proceeds going toward the \u003ca href=\"https://www.mecaforpeace.org/\">Middle East Children’s Alliance\u003c/a>’s Gaza relief fund. In addition, Elgan will soon kick off a new series of Palestine-focused collaborations with Arab American chefs and artists, who will sell those pieces exclusively through their own storefronts. The initial set of cups for Assil, for instance, will display a \u003ca href=\"https://www.metmuseum.org/perspectives/articles/2024/07/tatreez-in-time\">Tatreez pattern\u003c/a>, a kind of Palestinian embroidery. That collection will be available later this fall at both Reem’s outposts. It will also include plates and a mezze bowl for zeit and zataar — a smaller version of a prior Habibi dish that \u003ca href=\"https://nymag.com/strategist/article/reem-assil-favorite-things.html\">caught Assil’s eye\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elgan’s fall collection — which she’s calling the Habibi Passion Drops — will be co-curated by Antonio Diaz, the editor of \u003ca href=\"https://lifeandthyme.com/\">Life & Thyme magazine\u003c/a>, who helped connect the ceramicist with interested chefs. She’s also planning to include collaborations with coffee wizard \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101863628/dave-eggers-explores-the-american-dream-through-the-intricacies-of-coffee\">Mokhtar Alkhanshali\u003c/a> (of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/portofmokha/?hl=en\">Port of Mokha\u003c/a>) and chef Fadi Kattan, who wrote \u003ci>Bethlehem: A Celebration of Palestinian Food\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since its June 8 release, the Falastin collection has already \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C9gfnUfpJTb/?hl=en&img_index=1\">raised $29,000\u003c/a>, via the fundraising platform \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/_stillwerise/?hl=en\">Still We Rise\u003c/a>, to benefit organizations directly helping families in Palestine. Beyond that, Elgan’s biggest hope is for the Palestinian-inspired ceramics to inspire solidarity in joy, resistance in color, and celebration. “That’s really the heart of the collection,” she says. “To celebrate those traditions and create those connections.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962379\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-13962379\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/keffiyeh-cups-1020x1360.jpg\" alt=\"Coffee cups with a black-and-white checked pattern, placed on top of a keffiyeh scarf with a similar design.\" width=\"640\" height=\"853\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/keffiyeh-cups-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/keffiyeh-cups-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/keffiyeh-cups-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/keffiyeh-cups-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/keffiyeh-cups-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/keffiyeh-cups-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/keffiyeh-cups.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Elgan drew inspiration from the keffiyeh scarf, a visible symbol of Palestinian resistance. \u003ccite>(Céline Steen, courtesy of Habibi)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The timing of these releases is not lost on anyone who has watched the ongoing crisis in Palestine unfold. As the Israeli military offensive in the region continues, spreading into Lebanon and Jordan, the Palestinian death toll has reached nearly 40,000 with at least 15,000 children dead, according to \u003ca href=\"https://www.aljazeera.com/news/longform/2023/10/9/israel-hamas-war-in-maps-and-charts-live-tracker\">Gazan health officials\u003c/a>. That impact has been felt hard by the Bay’s diasporic Arabic communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elgan herself grew up in Amman, Jordan; her family is from Jenin, in the West Bank. For her, these ceramics have been the way she’s found to express her sense of solidarity — and to share a side of Palestinian culture that’s too often overlooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My art is my highest form of expression,” Elgan says. “I really want to highlight the joy Palestinians have when they host family and friends and connect around food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She understands that joy and has built a life around sharing it. Born in Southern California, she moved back to Los Angeles from Jordan when she was 13 years old. Eventually, she got a degree in international development from UC Berkeley before working at nonprofits and tech companies. In 2018, she took that first ceramics class and, shortly after, made a deal with Los Gatos’s \u003ca href=\"https://blossomhillcrafts.com/index.html#/\">Blossom Hill Crafts\u003c/a> to do side work in exchange for free studio time. It would be two or three in the morning when she’d finally leave the ceramics studio each night, losing track of time as she learned about glazing, throwing and the intricacies of wabi-sabi — the Japanese philosophy celebrating the beauty of imperfections.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13931303,arts_13954260,arts_13952460']\u003c/span>Then, during the pandemic, her restaurant collabs went major. The team at Campbell’s upscale \u003ca href=\"https://www.orchardcitykitchen.com/\">Orchard City Kitchen\u003c/a> had gorgeous cocktails that inspired Elgan; she pitched the team on cups that would represent the cocktails themselves. Their love of her designs gave her a surge of energy and inspiration. She’s since placed work at Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.elaichico.com/\">Elaichi Co.\u003c/a>, Oaxaca’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/el_parian_atelier/\">El Parian Atelier\u003c/a> and many more, with North Beach’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.cassavasf.com/\">Cassava\u003c/a> soon to join the ranks. Even Madewell and Anthropologie are customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mokhtar’s Alkhanshali says there’s no one like Elgan in the scene. “Nadia’s work not only honors the past but also pushes the boundaries of traditional pottery, making her a standout in her field,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ongoing hardships for her community haven’t daunted Elgan’s success, nor her optimism. When she was growing up in Jordan, her sitti (grandmother) would look out the window and call for her home in Palestine. This vivid memory of her family looking so happy, so at peace, continues to guide her work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“To be Palestinian means to be in a constant state of grief,” Elgan says. “It’s not just about property and land. Palestine is a part of our soul. The events since October 7 have been shattering. There’s a responsibility to preserve our culture and share our story.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Customers can order pieces from the Falastin collection \u003c/i>\u003ci>directly through the\u003c/i> \u003ci>Habibi\u003c/i>\u003ci> Ceramics \u003ca href=\"https://habibiceramics.com/\">website\u003c/a> or at participating restaurants.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "Meet the Palestinian Artist Making Keffiyeh-Inspired Ceramics for Bay Area Restaurants | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Even while she dreamed of numbers at her job in corporate tech, Nadia Elgan would fawn over elegant hand-poured ceramics. On her honeymoon in Cuba, she made her husband take her to all the local pottery studios they passed. And after her daughter was born, something in her succumbed to that desire to make something with her hands. Her first time at the wheel while on a ceramics studio date night sealed the deal: It was love at first touch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962376\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-13962376\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/nadia-elgan-portrait-1020x1530.jpg\" alt=\"A ceramicist in a pink jumpsuit poses for a portrait while looking down at a large pink bowl.\" width=\"640\" height=\"960\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/nadia-elgan-portrait-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/nadia-elgan-portrait-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/nadia-elgan-portrait-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/nadia-elgan-portrait-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/nadia-elgan-portrait-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/nadia-elgan-portrait-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/nadia-elgan-portrait-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Palestinian Filipina ceramicist Nadia Elgan left a career in corporate tech to start her own ceramics studio. \u003ccite>(Céline Steen, courtesy of Habibi)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now throwing at her own studio, \u003ca href=\"https://habibiceramics.com/\">Habibi Ceramics\u003c/a>, the Campbell-based Palestinian Filipina ceramicist — “Pali-Pina” as she describes herself — has designed cups and plates for popular Bay Area restaurants and cafes like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reemscalifornia/\">Reem’s\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.thecaffeoak.com/\">the Caffè by Mr. Espresso\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lately, Elgan’s art has turned toward Gaza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In June, she released her \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C78ongDuU6o/\">Falastin series\u003c/a> at West Coast Craft’s summer crafts market. The \u003ca href=\"https://habibiceramics.com/products/keffiyeh-cup\">cups\u003c/a> and plates are polka-dotted in a black-and-white pattern reminiscent of a keffiyeh scarf, one of the most visible displays of Palestinian resistance. In an era dominated by mass production, she throws each piece by hand, imbuing it with a sense of place and purpose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The keffiyeh-inspired Falastin collection is now available for purchase via \u003ca href=\"https://habibiceramics.com/products/keffiyeh-cup\">Habibi Ceramics’ website\u003c/a> and at superstar chef Reem Assil’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.reemscalifornia.com/\">two San Francisco restaurants\u003c/a>, on Mission Street and in the Ferry Building, with proceeds going toward the \u003ca href=\"https://www.mecaforpeace.org/\">Middle East Children’s Alliance\u003c/a>’s Gaza relief fund. In addition, Elgan will soon kick off a new series of Palestine-focused collaborations with Arab American chefs and artists, who will sell those pieces exclusively through their own storefronts. The initial set of cups for Assil, for instance, will display a \u003ca href=\"https://www.metmuseum.org/perspectives/articles/2024/07/tatreez-in-time\">Tatreez pattern\u003c/a>, a kind of Palestinian embroidery. That collection will be available later this fall at both Reem’s outposts. It will also include plates and a mezze bowl for zeit and zataar — a smaller version of a prior Habibi dish that \u003ca href=\"https://nymag.com/strategist/article/reem-assil-favorite-things.html\">caught Assil’s eye\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elgan’s fall collection — which she’s calling the Habibi Passion Drops — will be co-curated by Antonio Diaz, the editor of \u003ca href=\"https://lifeandthyme.com/\">Life & Thyme magazine\u003c/a>, who helped connect the ceramicist with interested chefs. She’s also planning to include collaborations with coffee wizard \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101863628/dave-eggers-explores-the-american-dream-through-the-intricacies-of-coffee\">Mokhtar Alkhanshali\u003c/a> (of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/portofmokha/?hl=en\">Port of Mokha\u003c/a>) and chef Fadi Kattan, who wrote \u003ci>Bethlehem: A Celebration of Palestinian Food\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since its June 8 release, the Falastin collection has already \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C9gfnUfpJTb/?hl=en&img_index=1\">raised $29,000\u003c/a>, via the fundraising platform \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/_stillwerise/?hl=en\">Still We Rise\u003c/a>, to benefit organizations directly helping families in Palestine. Beyond that, Elgan’s biggest hope is for the Palestinian-inspired ceramics to inspire solidarity in joy, resistance in color, and celebration. “That’s really the heart of the collection,” she says. “To celebrate those traditions and create those connections.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962379\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-13962379\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/keffiyeh-cups-1020x1360.jpg\" alt=\"Coffee cups with a black-and-white checked pattern, placed on top of a keffiyeh scarf with a similar design.\" width=\"640\" height=\"853\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/keffiyeh-cups-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/keffiyeh-cups-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/keffiyeh-cups-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/keffiyeh-cups-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/keffiyeh-cups-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/keffiyeh-cups-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/keffiyeh-cups.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Elgan drew inspiration from the keffiyeh scarf, a visible symbol of Palestinian resistance. \u003ccite>(Céline Steen, courtesy of Habibi)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The timing of these releases is not lost on anyone who has watched the ongoing crisis in Palestine unfold. As the Israeli military offensive in the region continues, spreading into Lebanon and Jordan, the Palestinian death toll has reached nearly 40,000 with at least 15,000 children dead, according to \u003ca href=\"https://www.aljazeera.com/news/longform/2023/10/9/israel-hamas-war-in-maps-and-charts-live-tracker\">Gazan health officials\u003c/a>. That impact has been felt hard by the Bay’s diasporic Arabic communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elgan herself grew up in Amman, Jordan; her family is from Jenin, in the West Bank. For her, these ceramics have been the way she’s found to express her sense of solidarity — and to share a side of Palestinian culture that’s too often overlooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My art is my highest form of expression,” Elgan says. “I really want to highlight the joy Palestinians have when they host family and friends and connect around food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She understands that joy and has built a life around sharing it. Born in Southern California, she moved back to Los Angeles from Jordan when she was 13 years old. Eventually, she got a degree in international development from UC Berkeley before working at nonprofits and tech companies. In 2018, she took that first ceramics class and, shortly after, made a deal with Los Gatos’s \u003ca href=\"https://blossomhillcrafts.com/index.html#/\">Blossom Hill Crafts\u003c/a> to do side work in exchange for free studio time. It would be two or three in the morning when she’d finally leave the ceramics studio each night, losing track of time as she learned about glazing, throwing and the intricacies of wabi-sabi — the Japanese philosophy celebrating the beauty of imperfections.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Then, during the pandemic, her restaurant collabs went major. The team at Campbell’s upscale \u003ca href=\"https://www.orchardcitykitchen.com/\">Orchard City Kitchen\u003c/a> had gorgeous cocktails that inspired Elgan; she pitched the team on cups that would represent the cocktails themselves. Their love of her designs gave her a surge of energy and inspiration. She’s since placed work at Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.elaichico.com/\">Elaichi Co.\u003c/a>, Oaxaca’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/el_parian_atelier/\">El Parian Atelier\u003c/a> and many more, with North Beach’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.cassavasf.com/\">Cassava\u003c/a> soon to join the ranks. Even Madewell and Anthropologie are customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mokhtar’s Alkhanshali says there’s no one like Elgan in the scene. “Nadia’s work not only honors the past but also pushes the boundaries of traditional pottery, making her a standout in her field,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ongoing hardships for her community haven’t daunted Elgan’s success, nor her optimism. When she was growing up in Jordan, her sitti (grandmother) would look out the window and call for her home in Palestine. This vivid memory of her family looking so happy, so at peace, continues to guide her work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“To be Palestinian means to be in a constant state of grief,” Elgan says. “It’s not just about property and land. Palestine is a part of our soul. The events since October 7 have been shattering. There’s a responsibility to preserve our culture and share our story.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Customers can order pieces from the Falastin collection \u003c/i>\u003ci>directly through the\u003c/i> \u003ci>Habibi\u003c/i>\u003ci> Ceramics \u003ca href=\"https://habibiceramics.com/\">website\u003c/a> or at participating restaurants.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"tagline": "The flip side of gentrification, told through one town",
"info": "Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?",
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},
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"tagline": "Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time",
"info": "KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.",
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},
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"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
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"order": 8
},
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},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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"order": 1
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"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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}
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"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
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"id": "fresh-air",
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"hidden-brain": {
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"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
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"source": "NPR"
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"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"jerrybrown": {
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"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"order": 18
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},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
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},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
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"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
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"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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