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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961617\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961617\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men sweating while they eat Indian/Pakistani food.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zareen’s has been a beloved Peninsula institution for the past 10 years, known for its homestyle Pakistani and Indian dishes. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For me, the most scenic vista in Palo Alto isn’t the view from the top of Hoover Tower, or within Gamble Garden’s immaculately manicured grounds, or deep inside a coastal redwood grove, lovely as all of those might be. As of last week, I’ve decided that the most beautiful sight in the entire city is the front patio at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/zareensrestaurant/?hl=en\">Zareen’s\u003c/a> at 10 o’clock on a gorgeous mid-summer night, when the umbrella-bedecked picnic tables are lit up with string lights and bustling with dozens of contented kebab and curry eaters. The vibe was so choice, I started to fall in love even before I took my first bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The beloved Pakistani and Indian restaurant, a staple on the Peninsula for the past 10 years, has two other locations, including the Mountain View original, which opened in 2014. But the Palo Alto Zareen’s is the only one that’s open late — until midnight every day — so that’s where we headed on a recent Friday night, joining the long queue of customers waiting to order at the front counter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13961328,arts_13958041,arts_13952384']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>The menu covers a wide gamut of contemporary Pakistani and Indian food trends. There is, for instance, a whole section devoted to \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13952384/pakistani-desi-burger-fremont-late-night\">desi burgers\u003c/a>, naan wraps and other hybridized street foods that would fit in at any next-generation desi food truck — chapli burgers, fried chicken tikka sandwiches and so forth. Meanwhile, the traditional thali plates, which come with rice, pickles and lentil daal, are perfect for the solo diner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We decided to stick to the kind of cozy, homestyle Indo-Pak dishes upon which Zareen’s first built its reputation. In many ways, the restaurant embodies the apotheosis of fast-casual dining: Within five minutes flat, our order arrives at our patio table piping hot, everything fresh and vibrant as a home-cooked meal. The chicken biryani, a specialty of the restaurant only available on Fridays, is an excellent version of the dish. Each grain of rice is perfectly toothsome, without any clumping, and we couldn’t stop eating the moist, well-spiced chicken and red-tinged potatoes buried underneath. Even better is the lamb gosht, with its tender chunks of meat and rich, savory gravy — the ideal vehicle for Zareen’s outrageously fluffy naan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961619\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961619\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: A bustling front patio of a restaurant (the sign reads, "Zareen's") lit up at night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The front patio at Zareen’s. The restaurant’s Palo Alto location is open until midnight daily. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I have to admit that I may have been profiled just a bit: When I inquired about the gola kebab sizzler, the staff member at the front counter took a quick glance at me and suggested, not unkindly, that the dish might be too spicy for me. Of course — something something toxic masculinity — I couldn’t back down from that challenge. When the dish came out sizzling intensely, as promised, on a bed of grilled onions atop a cast iron plate, we took our first bite with more than a little trepidation. Thankfully, these beef meatballs were spicy enough to leave our tongues tingling but not so much that they set our mouths on fire. More importantly, they were \u003ci>delicious \u003c/i>— incredibly soft and flavorful. We smashed them onto pieces of sheermal, a slightly sweet, flaky flatbread that the restaurant suggests ordering to accompany its kebabs. It was a killer combo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What we loved best, though, was the whole atmosphere of the place, whether you’re eating outside on the patio or inside the small but cozy dining room, with its chalkboard art and hanging, mobile-style lending library providing a spark of warmth and color. The vibe is equal parts relaxed and lively, but also cosmopolitan in that uniquely Bay Area way — the crowd is a mix of families with kids, tech workers, older white couples and groups of mostly South Asian teens and college kids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On this particular night in Palo Alto, there wasn’t anywhere else we’d rather be.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The Palo Alto location of \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/zareensrestaurant/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Zareen’s\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (365 S. California Ave.) is open 11 a.m. to midnight daily (takeout only after 11 p.m.). The restaurant also has \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.zareensrestaurant.com/locations\">\u003ci>locations in Mountain View and Redwood City\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> that close earlier in the evening.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>The menu covers a wide gamut of contemporary Pakistani and Indian food trends. There is, for instance, a whole section devoted to \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13952384/pakistani-desi-burger-fremont-late-night\">desi burgers\u003c/a>, naan wraps and other hybridized street foods that would fit in at any next-generation desi food truck — chapli burgers, fried chicken tikka sandwiches and so forth. Meanwhile, the traditional thali plates, which come with rice, pickles and lentil daal, are perfect for the solo diner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We decided to stick to the kind of cozy, homestyle Indo-Pak dishes upon which Zareen’s first built its reputation. In many ways, the restaurant embodies the apotheosis of fast-casual dining: Within five minutes flat, our order arrives at our patio table piping hot, everything fresh and vibrant as a home-cooked meal. The chicken biryani, a specialty of the restaurant only available on Fridays, is an excellent version of the dish. Each grain of rice is perfectly toothsome, without any clumping, and we couldn’t stop eating the moist, well-spiced chicken and red-tinged potatoes buried underneath. Even better is the lamb gosht, with its tender chunks of meat and rich, savory gravy — the ideal vehicle for Zareen’s outrageously fluffy naan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961619\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961619\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: A bustling front patio of a restaurant (the sign reads, "Zareen's") lit up at night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The front patio at Zareen’s. The restaurant’s Palo Alto location is open until midnight daily. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I have to admit that I may have been profiled just a bit: When I inquired about the gola kebab sizzler, the staff member at the front counter took a quick glance at me and suggested, not unkindly, that the dish might be too spicy for me. Of course — something something toxic masculinity — I couldn’t back down from that challenge. When the dish came out sizzling intensely, as promised, on a bed of grilled onions atop a cast iron plate, we took our first bite with more than a little trepidation. Thankfully, these beef meatballs were spicy enough to leave our tongues tingling but not so much that they set our mouths on fire. More importantly, they were \u003ci>delicious \u003c/i>— incredibly soft and flavorful. We smashed them onto pieces of sheermal, a slightly sweet, flaky flatbread that the restaurant suggests ordering to accompany its kebabs. It was a killer combo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What we loved best, though, was the whole atmosphere of the place, whether you’re eating outside on the patio or inside the small but cozy dining room, with its chalkboard art and hanging, mobile-style lending library providing a spark of warmth and color. The vibe is equal parts relaxed and lively, but also cosmopolitan in that uniquely Bay Area way — the crowd is a mix of families with kids, tech workers, older white couples and groups of mostly South Asian teens and college kids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On this particular night in Palo Alto, there wasn’t anywhere else we’d rather be.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The Palo Alto location of \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/zareensrestaurant/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Zareen’s\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (365 S. California Ave.) is open 11 a.m. to midnight daily (takeout only after 11 p.m.). The restaurant also has \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.zareensrestaurant.com/locations\">\u003ci>locations in Mountain View and Redwood City\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> that close earlier in the evening.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>For many Bay Area food lovers, it has been \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13957666/best-boba-shops-bay-area-berkeley-cupertino-sf\">cold boba summer\u003c/a>, a hot-dog-at-the-\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13960687/oakland-ballers-baseball-summertime-fans\">Ballers’-game\u003c/a> summer and, perhaps more than anything, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/sf/article/night-markets-19497739.php\">summer of bustling outdoor night markets\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"https://oaklandside.org/2024/05/23/prescott-night-market-food-lineup-west-oakland/\">West Oakland\u003c/a> recently kicked off a food-centric, thrillingly multicultural monthly night market. San Francisco’s Sunset district will reprise a \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/sunset-night-market-vendors-19574731.php\">super-sized version\u003c/a> of its popular Irving Street night market in August and September, featuring as many as 150 vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And now, for the first time, Eastside San Jose is getting its own night market: the \u003ca href=\"https://www.mvbl.co/storyroad/\">Story Road Night Market\u003c/a>, a heavily Vietnamese-focused event located in the Grand Century Mall parking lot. There, right in the heart of Little Saigon, food vendors will grill meat skewers and ladle out cups of cold chè while retail pop-ups sell trading cards, scented candles and handmade plushies — all amid a full lineup of cultural performances.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Co-produced by San Jose street food event organizer \u003ca href=\"https://www.mvbl.co/\">Moveable Feast\u003c/a>, the new night market will debut this weekend, July 26–27, with later editions scheduled for September and October.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many of the other Bay Area night market events, Story Road Night Market draws its inspiration from the lively late-night street markets that are a staple in cities throughout Asia. Ryan Sebastian, Moveable Feast’s founder and CEO, says his company’s night markets differ from its more standard, Off the Grid–style food truck events in terms of their larger scale and later hours, and also their inclusion of non-food retail vendors, many of which are part of San Jose’s vibrant pop-up maker community. It might not be \u003ci>quite\u003c/i> as sprawling and idiosyncratic as your average Taipei night market, but, as Sebastian puts it, “It’s not just eight food trucks in a parking lot.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961555\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961555\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor.jpg\" alt=\"A market vendor sells plushies.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A vendor selling plushies at a past Moveable Feast night market event. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Moveable Feast)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not all of the food vendors will be Vietnamese, or even Asian American, necessarily. There will also be food trucks slinging birria tacos and Nashville hot chicken sandwiches. But one of the virtues of the night market’s tighter cultural focus is the sheer variety of Vietnamese foods that will be on offer — not just the most famous dishes like phở and bánh mì, says Moveable Feast events manager Yaneth Lopez, but also other street food dishes that “go great with beer.” (There will be a beer garden on the premises, after all.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='news_11963136,arts_13904913,arts_13954983']\u003c/span>Here’s where the location right outside \u003ca href=\"https://www.sanjose.org/attraction/grand-century-mall\">Grand Century\u003c/a> — a nearly all-Vietnamese shopping mall — really sets the night market apart. About a third of the food stalls will be occupied by traditional Vietnamese restaurants from the food court or the adjacent Vietnam Town shopping plaza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, on the one hand, Story Road Night Market visitors will be able to partake in the kind of trendy, hybridized food that you usually find at this kind of event: Portuguese egg tarts with Asian flavors like pandan and durian from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/a.m.patisserie/?hl=en\">A&M Patisserie\u003c/a>, Filipino-Mexican fusion tacos from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/loskuyas/?hl=en\">Los Kuyas\u003c/a> and, of course, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hotboichilioil/?hl=en\">artisanal chili crunch\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, Grand Century food court staple Cháo Vịt Thanh Đa will be grilling skewered meat, snails and squid, perfuming the air with their enticing, smoky aroma. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/anvatnhacam.sj/\">Ăn Vặt Nhà Cam\u003c/a>, a newcomer to Vietnam Town, will be on hand to sell, among other dishes, chicken feet in Thai sauce. Meanwhile, longtime farmers market pop-up darling \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11963136/flavor-profile-beyond-banh-mi-san-jose-pop-up-plays-with-classics-of-vietnamese-cuisine\">Hết Sẩy\u003c/a> straddles the old and new, serving hard-to-find regional specialties from the Mekong River Delta, often with a Bay Area twist. At the night market, they’ll be serving their signature bánh mì thịt kho tàu, a sandwich filled with braised pork belly, chopped egg, pickled mustard greens and bird’s eye chilies. They’ll also be one of a couple vendors selling \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904913/vietnamese-drinks-boba-che-guide-san-jose\">chè\u003c/a>, the dessert beverage made up of shaved ice and assorted fruits and jellies — the ideal summer refresher.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961557\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961557\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A pop-up restaurant worker ladles broth over a banh mi sandwich.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hết Sẩy’s signature pork belly banh mi. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“The cool thing about having the vendors outside is you can actually see them making these things instead of just reading them on a menu,” says Natalie Truong, Moveable Feast’s catering and operations specialist. In other words, for visitors who aren’t already intimately familiar with Vietnamese cuisine, it will be a relatively unintimidating chance to try something new.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sebastian says the Bay Area’s current night market renaissance can trace its roots back to the height of the pandemic, when all big community gatherings were shut down completely. As it turns out, night markets have been one of the best responses to the “need to establish community connection and combat loneliness,” he says. Meanwhile, as cities and neighborhoods launched successful night market events, everyone in the world of city economic development has been watching and learning. The upshot? Companies like Moveable Feast have been inundated with requests from cities that want to put money into launching a night market — more requests than they have the capacity to fulfill, Sebastian says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961543\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961543\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market.jpg\" alt=\"Visitors to a night market. lit up against the darkness, eating and mingling at picnic tables.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1081\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-1536x865.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bustling scene after dark at one of Moveable Feast’s previous night market events. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Moveable Feast)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In fact, the Story Road Night Market series came about because of one such request: San Jose District 7 Councilmember Bien Doan reached out to Moveable Feast after raising some money to help fund the night market, and the newly formed Story Road Business Association also chipped in — all with the goal of building community, drawing new visitors to the district and creating some buzz.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Little Saigon, it’s already known for its food,” Sebastian says. And if all goes according to plan, the night market should make a convincing case to newcomers for what most folks who live in San Jose already know — that this little half-mile stretch of Story Road has one of the greatest concentrations of delicious food in the entire Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.mvbl.co/storyroad/#event-info\">\u003ci>Story Road Night Market\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will take place on Friday, July 26, and Saturday, July 27, from 4–10 p.m., in the Grand Century Mall’s (1111 Story Rd., San Jose) western parking lot — the side adjacent to Vietnam Town. Both parking and admission are free. The market will take place again Sept. 6–7 and Oct. 11–12.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>For many Bay Area food lovers, it has been \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13957666/best-boba-shops-bay-area-berkeley-cupertino-sf\">cold boba summer\u003c/a>, a hot-dog-at-the-\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13960687/oakland-ballers-baseball-summertime-fans\">Ballers’-game\u003c/a> summer and, perhaps more than anything, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/sf/article/night-markets-19497739.php\">summer of bustling outdoor night markets\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"https://oaklandside.org/2024/05/23/prescott-night-market-food-lineup-west-oakland/\">West Oakland\u003c/a> recently kicked off a food-centric, thrillingly multicultural monthly night market. San Francisco’s Sunset district will reprise a \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/sunset-night-market-vendors-19574731.php\">super-sized version\u003c/a> of its popular Irving Street night market in August and September, featuring as many as 150 vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And now, for the first time, Eastside San Jose is getting its own night market: the \u003ca href=\"https://www.mvbl.co/storyroad/\">Story Road Night Market\u003c/a>, a heavily Vietnamese-focused event located in the Grand Century Mall parking lot. There, right in the heart of Little Saigon, food vendors will grill meat skewers and ladle out cups of cold chè while retail pop-ups sell trading cards, scented candles and handmade plushies — all amid a full lineup of cultural performances.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Co-produced by San Jose street food event organizer \u003ca href=\"https://www.mvbl.co/\">Moveable Feast\u003c/a>, the new night market will debut this weekend, July 26–27, with later editions scheduled for September and October.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many of the other Bay Area night market events, Story Road Night Market draws its inspiration from the lively late-night street markets that are a staple in cities throughout Asia. Ryan Sebastian, Moveable Feast’s founder and CEO, says his company’s night markets differ from its more standard, Off the Grid–style food truck events in terms of their larger scale and later hours, and also their inclusion of non-food retail vendors, many of which are part of San Jose’s vibrant pop-up maker community. It might not be \u003ci>quite\u003c/i> as sprawling and idiosyncratic as your average Taipei night market, but, as Sebastian puts it, “It’s not just eight food trucks in a parking lot.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961555\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961555\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor.jpg\" alt=\"A market vendor sells plushies.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A vendor selling plushies at a past Moveable Feast night market event. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Moveable Feast)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not all of the food vendors will be Vietnamese, or even Asian American, necessarily. There will also be food trucks slinging birria tacos and Nashville hot chicken sandwiches. But one of the virtues of the night market’s tighter cultural focus is the sheer variety of Vietnamese foods that will be on offer — not just the most famous dishes like phở and bánh mì, says Moveable Feast events manager Yaneth Lopez, but also other street food dishes that “go great with beer.” (There will be a beer garden on the premises, after all.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Here’s where the location right outside \u003ca href=\"https://www.sanjose.org/attraction/grand-century-mall\">Grand Century\u003c/a> — a nearly all-Vietnamese shopping mall — really sets the night market apart. About a third of the food stalls will be occupied by traditional Vietnamese restaurants from the food court or the adjacent Vietnam Town shopping plaza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, on the one hand, Story Road Night Market visitors will be able to partake in the kind of trendy, hybridized food that you usually find at this kind of event: Portuguese egg tarts with Asian flavors like pandan and durian from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/a.m.patisserie/?hl=en\">A&M Patisserie\u003c/a>, Filipino-Mexican fusion tacos from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/loskuyas/?hl=en\">Los Kuyas\u003c/a> and, of course, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hotboichilioil/?hl=en\">artisanal chili crunch\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, Grand Century food court staple Cháo Vịt Thanh Đa will be grilling skewered meat, snails and squid, perfuming the air with their enticing, smoky aroma. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/anvatnhacam.sj/\">Ăn Vặt Nhà Cam\u003c/a>, a newcomer to Vietnam Town, will be on hand to sell, among other dishes, chicken feet in Thai sauce. Meanwhile, longtime farmers market pop-up darling \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11963136/flavor-profile-beyond-banh-mi-san-jose-pop-up-plays-with-classics-of-vietnamese-cuisine\">Hết Sẩy\u003c/a> straddles the old and new, serving hard-to-find regional specialties from the Mekong River Delta, often with a Bay Area twist. At the night market, they’ll be serving their signature bánh mì thịt kho tàu, a sandwich filled with braised pork belly, chopped egg, pickled mustard greens and bird’s eye chilies. They’ll also be one of a couple vendors selling \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904913/vietnamese-drinks-boba-che-guide-san-jose\">chè\u003c/a>, the dessert beverage made up of shaved ice and assorted fruits and jellies — the ideal summer refresher.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961557\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961557\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A pop-up restaurant worker ladles broth over a banh mi sandwich.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hết Sẩy’s signature pork belly banh mi. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“The cool thing about having the vendors outside is you can actually see them making these things instead of just reading them on a menu,” says Natalie Truong, Moveable Feast’s catering and operations specialist. In other words, for visitors who aren’t already intimately familiar with Vietnamese cuisine, it will be a relatively unintimidating chance to try something new.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sebastian says the Bay Area’s current night market renaissance can trace its roots back to the height of the pandemic, when all big community gatherings were shut down completely. As it turns out, night markets have been one of the best responses to the “need to establish community connection and combat loneliness,” he says. Meanwhile, as cities and neighborhoods launched successful night market events, everyone in the world of city economic development has been watching and learning. The upshot? Companies like Moveable Feast have been inundated with requests from cities that want to put money into launching a night market — more requests than they have the capacity to fulfill, Sebastian says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961543\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961543\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market.jpg\" alt=\"Visitors to a night market. lit up against the darkness, eating and mingling at picnic tables.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1081\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-1536x865.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bustling scene after dark at one of Moveable Feast’s previous night market events. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Moveable Feast)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In fact, the Story Road Night Market series came about because of one such request: San Jose District 7 Councilmember Bien Doan reached out to Moveable Feast after raising some money to help fund the night market, and the newly formed Story Road Business Association also chipped in — all with the goal of building community, drawing new visitors to the district and creating some buzz.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Little Saigon, it’s already known for its food,” Sebastian says. And if all goes according to plan, the night market should make a convincing case to newcomers for what most folks who live in San Jose already know — that this little half-mile stretch of Story Road has one of the greatest concentrations of delicious food in the entire Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.mvbl.co/storyroad/#event-info\">\u003ci>Story Road Night Market\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will take place on Friday, July 26, and Saturday, July 27, from 4–10 p.m., in the Grand Century Mall’s (1111 Story Rd., San Jose) western parking lot — the side adjacent to Vietnam Town. Both parking and admission are free. The market will take place again Sept. 6–7 and Oct. 11–12.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "brazilian-food-boom-sf-bay-area-cafe-de-casa-brazilian-bbq",
"title": "The Golden Age of Brazilian Food in the Bay Area Is Here",
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"headTitle": "The Golden Age of Brazilian Food in the Bay Area Is Here | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>[dropcap]A[/dropcap]cross the street from the Buena Vista Cafe’s white-coated bartenders pouring San Francisco’s most famous Irish coffee and the gobs of tourists stepping off the Powell/Hyde Cable Car turnaround, there’s an unexpected new addition to the neighborhood: a Brazilian restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this isn’t just \u003ci>any\u003c/i> Brazilian restaurant. It’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/She-was-an-underground-food-legend-in-S-F-Now-16206269.php\">Cafe De Casa’s\u003c/a> third location in the Bay Area, an unprecedented milestone for Brazilian food around these parts. The stylishly-designed, 5,000-square-foot former Starbucks on Fisherman’s Wharf represents a massive expansion from the cozy grab-and-go shop that Cafe de Casa had around the corner for eight years. This is now a full-blown Brazilian food emporium, offering a bevy of savory pastries like pão de queijo (aka “PDQ,” or cheese bread) and creamy, chicken-filled coxinhas, chewy-crispy stuffed tapioca crepes, lunch plates, açai bowls, fresh juices and coffee drinks galore. Now there are even packages of Cafe de Casa frozen PDQs to bake at home, along with branded malagueta pepper hot sauce and artisan ceramics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a stark contrast from when I moved to San Francisco 15 years ago and my quests to find the hearty homestyle Brazilian lunch plates that I ate every day growing up were largely fruitless. If I wanted Brazilian food, the options were limited to steakhouses (usually a big meal for special occasions) or açai bowls (a snack) from a cafe on Valencia Street that promised for years to start a lunch service but never did. Where was the everyday food and staple rice and beans?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when I stumbled upon Cafe de Casa’s original tiny yellow house in South San Francisco in the 2010s serving legit home cooked classics, it was the only place that would effectively quell my “saudades” (deep longing) for flavors from back home in Brazil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961263\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961263\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A woman and young boy peruse the pastry case at Cafe de Casa.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A family looks at the pastry display case at Cafe de Casa on July 11, 2024. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, more than a decade later, that dearth of Brazilian food options in the Bay is a thing of the past. From my home on the edge of Noe Valley and Bernal Heights, for example, there are no less than a half dozen places within ten minutes of my doorstep. I make an easy pit stop when I bike by \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/brazilian-spot-sf-buffet-18175531.php\">The Brazilian Spot\u003c/a> on Valencia near 24th Street to grab a quick PDQ or a buffet lunch on Fridays. I can walk to \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/At-S-F-s-Noeteca-Italian-wine-goes-hand-in-hand-16409455.php\">Noeteca\u003c/a> on Dolores Street for hearty lunch plates during the week, and I know I can get coxinhas in a pinch at Brazilian-owned Bernal Heights Pizza down the street. There’s another sleek Cafe De Casa in the Castro, Pebbles in Glen Park has sneaky-good PDQ and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13935344/brazuca-brazilian-burger-acai-food-truck-richmond\">Brazuca’s\u003c/a> Brazi-Mex fusion food truck is a short jaunt away in the Dogpatch. And just last month, I discovered Vaulin’s Taproom on Bryant and 9th for a lunch plate with authentic Brazilian rice and beans, sauteed beef with caramelized onions, a fried egg and farofa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It feels like nothing short of a golden age to be (and eat) Brazilian in San Francisco — and I’m not even counting the number of other options in Daly City or the East Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if Cafe de Casa’s expansion among this growing trend of Brazilian food businesses in a multitude of neighborhoods tells us anything, it’s that they’re very much not just feeding Brazilians. Through the years, the clientele at Cafe de Casa has become increasingly non-Brazilian, making it an important entry point to the cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We wanted to make for Americans what Brazilians love,” says Amanda Moreira, who co-owns Cafe de Casa with her mother and sister. “Brazilian food is very agreeable to the palette. It’s flavorful, and not overly spicy.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while I typically introduce folks to Brazilian food via the crispy, gooey, cheesy PDQ, Moreira says the coxinha — a fried dough ball shaped like a chicken leg, filled with velvety seasoned chicken — is the perfect gateway. “I’ve never seen anyone not like a coxinha,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961258\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961258\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Three triangular fried pastries on a plate.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cafe de Casa’s version of coxinha, a traditional Brazilian pastry. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961356\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1999px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961356\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A Brazilian chicken pastry cut open to reveal its creamy filling.\" width=\"1999\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed.jpg 1999w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1999px) 100vw, 1999px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pastry’s velvety chicken-and-cream-cheese filling. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cafe De Casa even sells its coxinhas and other savory pastries to smaller Brazilian cafes around the Bay, most of which tend to cater to the growing number of expats in the region, who number somewhere between 15,000 and 40,000. But non-Brazilian clientele really started to take notice of Cafe de Casa’s offerings, Moreira explains, during the surging health food movement in the mid-to-late 2010s. Words like “gluten-free” and “antioxidant” were definitely en vogue in the Bay Area, and Cafe de Casa — with its gluten-free PDQs, tapioca crepes and proprietary açai blend — was well-positioned to be discovered by new customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Açai was already having its moment in the health craze, but we were the first ones doing tapioca crepes in the area,” Moreria says. “Like the pão de queijo and tapioca crepes that are naturally gluten-free — it wasn’t \u003ci>engineered\u003c/i> to be that way. And there’s no sugar or milk in the tapiocas either, and people are after that, especially in these parts of California. When people with food allergies come searching for gluten-free and dairy-free, we show them an entire page of options and they’re blown away.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>A Growing Community and Culture\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Moreira moved to San Francisco in 2009 from the state of Goias, where a great majority of Brazilians in the Bay Area are from. Back then, most Brazilians out here were working blue-collared jobs like delivering pizzas or cleaning houses. These days, pizza delivery has been replaced by driving for Uber or DoorDash as a predominant job for Brazilians just arriving. Brazilians come to the Bay to stay as long as possible and make as much money to either take back home or, in cases like Moreira’s, to build a life here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moreira’s mother, Lucimar Canedo, was an early innovator when it came to Brazilian food in the Bay. After arriving in 2004, she’d sell her savory pastries out of a pizzeria she worked at and eventually settled into building the Cafe de Casa business in earnest with her daughters in 2011. But while Canedo and Moreira’s paths have led to the growth of their own business, the culture and communities that have grown around them along the way comprise an even bigger shift in the overall Brazilian food scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961259\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961259\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A spread of pastries inside a display case.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The impressive spread of pastries available at Cafe de Casa’s Fisherman’s Wharf location. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961358\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961358\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed.jpg\" alt=\"Portrait of a woman (center) and her two adult daughters, all posing in jeans and blazers.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lucimar Canedo (center) and her daughters Amanda Moreira (left) and Thais Moreira pose for a portrait. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cafe de Casa)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“The population is getting bigger out here for sure,” says Vaulin Silva of \u003ca href=\"https://sanfranciscobrazilianrestaurant.com/\">Vaulin’s Taproom\u003c/a> in SoMa. Silva owned the Inner Richmond’s Brazil-centric Sunstream Cafe for 15 years before selling it in 2020, so he knows a thing or two about Brazilians walking through his door. It’s one of the reasons he leveled up to a full-service food and beer operation in Vaulin’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vaulin’s offers an extensive menu of Brazilian classics — including discounted lunch plates for ride-share and delivery drivers — as well as shareable bar food typical of Brazil’s gastropub culture to go along with a slew of beers on tap. Fostering community is on his mind, and now on weekends, Vaulin’s has live Brazilian music on the restaurant’s modest stage. “Brazilians kept coming [to the Bay], and they asked for more offerings like we have in Brazil,” he sums up, adding that his goal is to eventually attract more non-Brazilians too.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Red Light/Green Light\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Before places like Cafe de Casa, El Cerrito’s Brazil Bistro and Oakland’s Paulista Kitchen & Taproom came along serving everyday Brazilian staples, Brazilian barbecue (churrasco) was the first thing that came to mind when non-Brazilians in the Bay Area thought about Brazilian food. Espetus has been slicing meats off of large skewers tableside on Market Street since 2003 and opened an even more popular San Mateo location in 2008. International chain Fogo de Chão came to SOMA in 2016.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Celso Mattos is a veteran of churrascarias. He moved from Brazil’s barbecue mecca in Southern Brazil to Texas, where he started working at Fogo de Chão. When he came to the Bay Area, he served as the manager of Napa’s Galpão Gaucho, one of the barbecue chain’s seven restaurants across the country, mainly in California. He set out on his own in 2022 to open the modest Show de Carnes Express in Vacaville, before opening up a full-blown 200-seat \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/showdecarnesusa/?hl=en\">Show de Carnes\u003c/a> steakhouse in Sausalito in early 2023. He hasn’t looked back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961373\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961373\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef.jpg\" alt=\"Steak ready to be cut off the spit, at a Brazilian barbecue restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1958\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-800x783.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-1020x999.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-160x157.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-768x752.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-1536x1504.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-1920x1880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ribeye steak ready to be sliced off the skewer at Show de Carnes, a Brazilian barbecue restaurant in Sausalito. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Show de Carnes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On a recent Tuesday night, Show de Carnes is humming. The smells of traditional Southern Brazilian–style grilled meats greet you as soon as you walk into the elegant dining room. Families, corporate dinners and birthday parties are filling the long group-friendly tables along one half of the room while two- and four-tops sip caipirinhas and take trips to the loaded salad bar on the other. Meat carvers make their hypnotic shuffle from table to table looking for the green-colored side of an indicator that you’re ready to be served, and slice meats like picanha, pork ribs and chicken hearts right onto your plate (the red side tells them you’re full or need a break.) And while this is an authentically Brazilian experience, most of the clientele is not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13935344,arts_13960360,arts_13930138']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>“90% of our clientele is American,” Mattos says. “Business has been very good right off the bat, truly beyond our expectations. But I really didn’t expect things to go this well in our first year, mainly because it didn’t happen that way in any of the other locations I opened with other companies I’ve worked with.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mattos says the Sausalito location made sense because there wasn’t a Brazilian steakhouse between Napa and San Francisco. Marin County, with its nearly 300,000 people who skew high-income, was attractive. “Generally speaking, there aren’t really that many churrascarias in the Bay for the number of people here,” Mattos explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Brazilians in the Bay are usually looking for more everyday food than churrascarias, the strength of the concept forged on Brazilian hospitality is palpable among the masses. In fact, Show de Carnes is set to open \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/showdecarnesusa/p/C4rps1MsJez/\">another location in Palo Alto later this summer\u003c/a>, because whether they’re Brazilian or not, people in the Bay Area can’t seem to get enough Brazilian food right now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961260\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961260\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Customers eating lunch inside a busy Brazilian cafe.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The lunch crowd at Cafe de Casa. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Indeed, Brazilian steakhouses have historically been the entry points to Brazilian food in America. Miguel Do Rego was a manager at Espetus for six years before opening The Brazilian Spot, the Mission District cafe and Brazilian food market,in 2022. He says the increasing popularity of establishments like his is a direct result of the longtime presence of Brazilian steakhouses in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When I was at Espetus, we were easily serving over 1,000 people a day on busy weekends between lunch and dinner at both locations,” Do Rego says. “Think about that. Every single weekend 3,000+ mostly non-Brazilian people were getting exposed to Brazilian food in this area. And more importantly, we served the PDQ as appetizers. So everyone knows about the ‘Brazilian cheese bread’ because of the steakhouses.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even Trader Joe’s now sells their own version of par-baked PDQs (spoiler alert: they’re just OK), and one company went on \u003ci>Shark Tank\u003c/i> a decade ago \u003ca href=\"https://www.foodrepublic.com/1424764/brazi-bites-shark-tank-now/\">effectively exploding the frozen PDQ market\u003c/a> everywhere from Whole Foods to Costco nationwide. The increased availability of this decidedly Brazilian product has led to a much more friendly environment for Brazilian cafes in places like the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961264\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961264\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A woman smiles behind the counter while working at a cafe.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">“We wanted to make for Americans what Brazilians love,” says Amanda Moreira, who runs Cafe de Casa along with with her sister and mother. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And as the Bay Area’s history with Brazilian food now reaches back over 20 years since the first steakhouse opened and Cafe de Casa’s matriarch moved to the Bay, we’re seeing the results of these portals into Brazilian food laying lasting roots. With these hubs of culinary culture continuing to sprout and flourish, everyone in the Bay — no matter where they’re from — is seeing how Brazilian food is as vibrant as the country’s people. There’s a whole other world out there beyond just the barbecue that’s now easier to find than ever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My mom always said that all I need is for someone to walk through my door,” Moreira says back at Cafe de Casa. “Once they’re in, I’ll get to work, and once they’re done eating, I know they’re going to come back.”\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "The Golden Age of Brazilian Food in the SF Bay Area | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">A\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>cross the street from the Buena Vista Cafe’s white-coated bartenders pouring San Francisco’s most famous Irish coffee and the gobs of tourists stepping off the Powell/Hyde Cable Car turnaround, there’s an unexpected new addition to the neighborhood: a Brazilian restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this isn’t just \u003ci>any\u003c/i> Brazilian restaurant. It’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/She-was-an-underground-food-legend-in-S-F-Now-16206269.php\">Cafe De Casa’s\u003c/a> third location in the Bay Area, an unprecedented milestone for Brazilian food around these parts. The stylishly-designed, 5,000-square-foot former Starbucks on Fisherman’s Wharf represents a massive expansion from the cozy grab-and-go shop that Cafe de Casa had around the corner for eight years. This is now a full-blown Brazilian food emporium, offering a bevy of savory pastries like pão de queijo (aka “PDQ,” or cheese bread) and creamy, chicken-filled coxinhas, chewy-crispy stuffed tapioca crepes, lunch plates, açai bowls, fresh juices and coffee drinks galore. Now there are even packages of Cafe de Casa frozen PDQs to bake at home, along with branded malagueta pepper hot sauce and artisan ceramics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a stark contrast from when I moved to San Francisco 15 years ago and my quests to find the hearty homestyle Brazilian lunch plates that I ate every day growing up were largely fruitless. If I wanted Brazilian food, the options were limited to steakhouses (usually a big meal for special occasions) or açai bowls (a snack) from a cafe on Valencia Street that promised for years to start a lunch service but never did. Where was the everyday food and staple rice and beans?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when I stumbled upon Cafe de Casa’s original tiny yellow house in South San Francisco in the 2010s serving legit home cooked classics, it was the only place that would effectively quell my “saudades” (deep longing) for flavors from back home in Brazil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961263\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961263\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A woman and young boy peruse the pastry case at Cafe de Casa.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A family looks at the pastry display case at Cafe de Casa on July 11, 2024. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, more than a decade later, that dearth of Brazilian food options in the Bay is a thing of the past. From my home on the edge of Noe Valley and Bernal Heights, for example, there are no less than a half dozen places within ten minutes of my doorstep. I make an easy pit stop when I bike by \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/brazilian-spot-sf-buffet-18175531.php\">The Brazilian Spot\u003c/a> on Valencia near 24th Street to grab a quick PDQ or a buffet lunch on Fridays. I can walk to \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/At-S-F-s-Noeteca-Italian-wine-goes-hand-in-hand-16409455.php\">Noeteca\u003c/a> on Dolores Street for hearty lunch plates during the week, and I know I can get coxinhas in a pinch at Brazilian-owned Bernal Heights Pizza down the street. There’s another sleek Cafe De Casa in the Castro, Pebbles in Glen Park has sneaky-good PDQ and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13935344/brazuca-brazilian-burger-acai-food-truck-richmond\">Brazuca’s\u003c/a> Brazi-Mex fusion food truck is a short jaunt away in the Dogpatch. And just last month, I discovered Vaulin’s Taproom on Bryant and 9th for a lunch plate with authentic Brazilian rice and beans, sauteed beef with caramelized onions, a fried egg and farofa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It feels like nothing short of a golden age to be (and eat) Brazilian in San Francisco — and I’m not even counting the number of other options in Daly City or the East Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if Cafe de Casa’s expansion among this growing trend of Brazilian food businesses in a multitude of neighborhoods tells us anything, it’s that they’re very much not just feeding Brazilians. Through the years, the clientele at Cafe de Casa has become increasingly non-Brazilian, making it an important entry point to the cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We wanted to make for Americans what Brazilians love,” says Amanda Moreira, who co-owns Cafe de Casa with her mother and sister. “Brazilian food is very agreeable to the palette. It’s flavorful, and not overly spicy.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while I typically introduce folks to Brazilian food via the crispy, gooey, cheesy PDQ, Moreira says the coxinha — a fried dough ball shaped like a chicken leg, filled with velvety seasoned chicken — is the perfect gateway. “I’ve never seen anyone not like a coxinha,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961258\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961258\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Three triangular fried pastries on a plate.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cafe de Casa’s version of coxinha, a traditional Brazilian pastry. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961356\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1999px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961356\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A Brazilian chicken pastry cut open to reveal its creamy filling.\" width=\"1999\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed.jpg 1999w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1999px) 100vw, 1999px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pastry’s velvety chicken-and-cream-cheese filling. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cafe De Casa even sells its coxinhas and other savory pastries to smaller Brazilian cafes around the Bay, most of which tend to cater to the growing number of expats in the region, who number somewhere between 15,000 and 40,000. But non-Brazilian clientele really started to take notice of Cafe de Casa’s offerings, Moreira explains, during the surging health food movement in the mid-to-late 2010s. Words like “gluten-free” and “antioxidant” were definitely en vogue in the Bay Area, and Cafe de Casa — with its gluten-free PDQs, tapioca crepes and proprietary açai blend — was well-positioned to be discovered by new customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Açai was already having its moment in the health craze, but we were the first ones doing tapioca crepes in the area,” Moreria says. “Like the pão de queijo and tapioca crepes that are naturally gluten-free — it wasn’t \u003ci>engineered\u003c/i> to be that way. And there’s no sugar or milk in the tapiocas either, and people are after that, especially in these parts of California. When people with food allergies come searching for gluten-free and dairy-free, we show them an entire page of options and they’re blown away.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>A Growing Community and Culture\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Moreira moved to San Francisco in 2009 from the state of Goias, where a great majority of Brazilians in the Bay Area are from. Back then, most Brazilians out here were working blue-collared jobs like delivering pizzas or cleaning houses. These days, pizza delivery has been replaced by driving for Uber or DoorDash as a predominant job for Brazilians just arriving. Brazilians come to the Bay to stay as long as possible and make as much money to either take back home or, in cases like Moreira’s, to build a life here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moreira’s mother, Lucimar Canedo, was an early innovator when it came to Brazilian food in the Bay. After arriving in 2004, she’d sell her savory pastries out of a pizzeria she worked at and eventually settled into building the Cafe de Casa business in earnest with her daughters in 2011. But while Canedo and Moreira’s paths have led to the growth of their own business, the culture and communities that have grown around them along the way comprise an even bigger shift in the overall Brazilian food scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961259\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961259\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A spread of pastries inside a display case.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The impressive spread of pastries available at Cafe de Casa’s Fisherman’s Wharf location. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961358\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961358\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed.jpg\" alt=\"Portrait of a woman (center) and her two adult daughters, all posing in jeans and blazers.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lucimar Canedo (center) and her daughters Amanda Moreira (left) and Thais Moreira pose for a portrait. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cafe de Casa)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“The population is getting bigger out here for sure,” says Vaulin Silva of \u003ca href=\"https://sanfranciscobrazilianrestaurant.com/\">Vaulin’s Taproom\u003c/a> in SoMa. Silva owned the Inner Richmond’s Brazil-centric Sunstream Cafe for 15 years before selling it in 2020, so he knows a thing or two about Brazilians walking through his door. It’s one of the reasons he leveled up to a full-service food and beer operation in Vaulin’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vaulin’s offers an extensive menu of Brazilian classics — including discounted lunch plates for ride-share and delivery drivers — as well as shareable bar food typical of Brazil’s gastropub culture to go along with a slew of beers on tap. Fostering community is on his mind, and now on weekends, Vaulin’s has live Brazilian music on the restaurant’s modest stage. “Brazilians kept coming [to the Bay], and they asked for more offerings like we have in Brazil,” he sums up, adding that his goal is to eventually attract more non-Brazilians too.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Red Light/Green Light\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Before places like Cafe de Casa, El Cerrito’s Brazil Bistro and Oakland’s Paulista Kitchen & Taproom came along serving everyday Brazilian staples, Brazilian barbecue (churrasco) was the first thing that came to mind when non-Brazilians in the Bay Area thought about Brazilian food. Espetus has been slicing meats off of large skewers tableside on Market Street since 2003 and opened an even more popular San Mateo location in 2008. International chain Fogo de Chão came to SOMA in 2016.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Celso Mattos is a veteran of churrascarias. He moved from Brazil’s barbecue mecca in Southern Brazil to Texas, where he started working at Fogo de Chão. When he came to the Bay Area, he served as the manager of Napa’s Galpão Gaucho, one of the barbecue chain’s seven restaurants across the country, mainly in California. He set out on his own in 2022 to open the modest Show de Carnes Express in Vacaville, before opening up a full-blown 200-seat \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/showdecarnesusa/?hl=en\">Show de Carnes\u003c/a> steakhouse in Sausalito in early 2023. He hasn’t looked back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961373\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961373\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef.jpg\" alt=\"Steak ready to be cut off the spit, at a Brazilian barbecue restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1958\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-800x783.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-1020x999.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-160x157.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-768x752.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-1536x1504.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-1920x1880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ribeye steak ready to be sliced off the skewer at Show de Carnes, a Brazilian barbecue restaurant in Sausalito. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Show de Carnes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On a recent Tuesday night, Show de Carnes is humming. The smells of traditional Southern Brazilian–style grilled meats greet you as soon as you walk into the elegant dining room. Families, corporate dinners and birthday parties are filling the long group-friendly tables along one half of the room while two- and four-tops sip caipirinhas and take trips to the loaded salad bar on the other. Meat carvers make their hypnotic shuffle from table to table looking for the green-colored side of an indicator that you’re ready to be served, and slice meats like picanha, pork ribs and chicken hearts right onto your plate (the red side tells them you’re full or need a break.) And while this is an authentically Brazilian experience, most of the clientele is not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>“90% of our clientele is American,” Mattos says. “Business has been very good right off the bat, truly beyond our expectations. But I really didn’t expect things to go this well in our first year, mainly because it didn’t happen that way in any of the other locations I opened with other companies I’ve worked with.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mattos says the Sausalito location made sense because there wasn’t a Brazilian steakhouse between Napa and San Francisco. Marin County, with its nearly 300,000 people who skew high-income, was attractive. “Generally speaking, there aren’t really that many churrascarias in the Bay for the number of people here,” Mattos explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Brazilians in the Bay are usually looking for more everyday food than churrascarias, the strength of the concept forged on Brazilian hospitality is palpable among the masses. In fact, Show de Carnes is set to open \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/showdecarnesusa/p/C4rps1MsJez/\">another location in Palo Alto later this summer\u003c/a>, because whether they’re Brazilian or not, people in the Bay Area can’t seem to get enough Brazilian food right now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961260\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961260\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Customers eating lunch inside a busy Brazilian cafe.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The lunch crowd at Cafe de Casa. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Indeed, Brazilian steakhouses have historically been the entry points to Brazilian food in America. Miguel Do Rego was a manager at Espetus for six years before opening The Brazilian Spot, the Mission District cafe and Brazilian food market,in 2022. He says the increasing popularity of establishments like his is a direct result of the longtime presence of Brazilian steakhouses in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When I was at Espetus, we were easily serving over 1,000 people a day on busy weekends between lunch and dinner at both locations,” Do Rego says. “Think about that. Every single weekend 3,000+ mostly non-Brazilian people were getting exposed to Brazilian food in this area. And more importantly, we served the PDQ as appetizers. So everyone knows about the ‘Brazilian cheese bread’ because of the steakhouses.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even Trader Joe’s now sells their own version of par-baked PDQs (spoiler alert: they’re just OK), and one company went on \u003ci>Shark Tank\u003c/i> a decade ago \u003ca href=\"https://www.foodrepublic.com/1424764/brazi-bites-shark-tank-now/\">effectively exploding the frozen PDQ market\u003c/a> everywhere from Whole Foods to Costco nationwide. The increased availability of this decidedly Brazilian product has led to a much more friendly environment for Brazilian cafes in places like the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961264\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961264\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A woman smiles behind the counter while working at a cafe.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">“We wanted to make for Americans what Brazilians love,” says Amanda Moreira, who runs Cafe de Casa along with with her sister and mother. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And as the Bay Area’s history with Brazilian food now reaches back over 20 years since the first steakhouse opened and Cafe de Casa’s matriarch moved to the Bay, we’re seeing the results of these portals into Brazilian food laying lasting roots. With these hubs of culinary culture continuing to sprout and flourish, everyone in the Bay — no matter where they’re from — is seeing how Brazilian food is as vibrant as the country’s people. There’s a whole other world out there beyond just the barbecue that’s now easier to find than ever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My mom always said that all I need is for someone to walk through my door,” Moreira says back at Cafe de Casa. “Once they’re in, I’ll get to work, and once they’re done eating, I know they’re going to come back.”\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "bay-pocha-late-night-korean-pub-bossam-army-stew-sf",
"title": "Bay Pocha Was Made for a Late-Night Feast With Friends",
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"headTitle": "Bay Pocha Was Made for a Late-Night Feast With Friends | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961332\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961332\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: One diner at a Korean restaurant shoves a lettuce wrap into his mouth while another eats noodles from a pot of stew.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bay Pocha sets itself apart from the crowd of Korean pubs by serving big, shareable, celebratory dishes like its bossam (pork belly wraps). The San Francisco restaurant is open until 1 a.m. on weekends. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in college, my friends and I would eat at the Fontainbleau Diner in Piscataway, New Jersey, every Thursday night after our weekly club meeting. This meant 10 or 20 of us, mostly Asian American, rolling in at 10 p.m. to commandeer a row of pushed-together two-tops. We were loud and giddy, reveling in our Monte Cristos, chicken fingers and root beer floats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, here in the Bay Area, a lot of the late-night restaurants aren’t built for that kind of large-group merrymaking — not when you’re squished up at a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13957143/late-night-japanese-whisky-highball-karaage-sunnyvale-nokori\">tiny bar counter\u003c/a> or, in some cases, there \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13959808/golden-boy-pizza-north-beach-sf-late-night\">isn’t any seating at all\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://baypocha.menu11.com/\">Bay Pocha\u003c/a>, a Korean pub on Ocean Avenue near Stonestown, is the exception that proves the rule. Even though it isn’t a particularly big restaurant, a long communal table, spacious enough to fit 20 people, runs down the center of the dining room, and the menu skews toward hearty, shareable dishes: bubbling stews and hot pots, and big platters piled high with braised and stir-fried meats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Named after Korea’s famed “pocha” (or \u003ca href=\"https://la.eater.com/2020/8/13/21366722/koreatown-pojangmacha-street-food-parking-look-outdoor-dining-los-angeles\">pojangmacha\u003c/a>) street carts and semi-outdoor food stalls, Bay Pocha has a similar aesthetic to \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13952823/zzan-korean-fried-chicken-late-night-san-francisco\">other Korean pubs in the Bay Area\u003c/a> with its cheery K-pop soundtrack and neon-lit signs advertising soju and Korean beer brands. On weekends, it’s open until 1 a.m. and, on a recent Friday night, it only seemed to get busier and more rambunctious as the night got later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The broad menu runs through the greatest hits of the kind of booze-friendly food you would find at your standard Bay Area soju bang: Korean fried chicken, cheese corn, tteokbokki. But where Bay Pocha sets itself apart is in its selection of big, celebratory dishes — the kind you’re surprised and delighted to be able to share with a group of friends at 11 o’clock at night. That includes harder-to-find dishes like spicy stir-fried chicken feet and jokbal, a.k.a. braised pig trotters, which Bay Pocha offers in both spicy and non-spicy versions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961334\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961334\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2.jpg\" alt='Illustration: Facade of a Korean restaurant; the sign reads, \"Bay Pocha.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant is perfect for a late meal with a big group of friends. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But we had mainly come for the hidden star of the menu, the bossam, or braised pork belly wraps, which is probably the dish Bay Pocha is best known for, even though it isn’t listed on the menu — you have to know to ask for it. It’s a huge platter of tender, fatty meat, cut into thick slices and fanned out like a beautiful flower, with a salad of thinly slivered scallions piled in the center. Make sure you also order the ssam set — a plate of lettuce, raw and pickled jalapeños, raw garlic and spicy ssamjang sauce — so that you can eat the pork belly Korean-style, as lettuce wraps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13961051,arts_13959808,arts_13956218']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>For each ssam, you’ll want a couple of slices of pork, a tangle of scallion salad, a smear of ssamjang, maybe some kimchi and, if you’re like me, an unconscionable amount of garlic. Build each wrap on your plate or do it “freestyle,” the way I learned from watching too many Korean dramas, holding the lettuce leaf in front of your mouth like you’re setting a trap, then \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@plumsoju/video/6799690626007977221?lang=en\">chopsticking all of the other ingredients into the leaf in one smooth motion\u003c/a>. Take it down in one bite if you can. Either way, the result is delicious — unctuous and meaty, spicy and sharp, with enough freshness from the lettuce that you don’t feel weighed down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other thing the restaurant does well is its ample selection of shareable stews and hot pots, the most striking of which is the army stew, or budae jjigae, a Korean pub staple whose use of American processed foods has its \u003ca href=\"https://www.atlasobscura.com/foods/budae-jjigae-army-stew-spam\">roots in the U.S. post-war military occupation of South Korea\u003c/a>. At Bay Pocha, they light up a portable gas burner, then bring the big pot of bubbling red broth to your table to finish cooking. The soup comes loaded with spicy pork, Spam, sliced up hot dogs, onions, kimchi, tofu, two different kinds of rice cakes, and a big block of instant ramen topped with two slices of American cheese. It is \u003ci>a lot\u003c/i>. But for us, it was pure comfort food. The salty, spicy broth got more and more flavorful as the night went on, and with some white rice on the side to soak up the soup, we stretched the leftovers into two more meals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As if on cue, toward the end of the night, a boisterous, Cantonese-speaking adult volleyball or baseball team in matching red jackets came in and spread themselves out at the long communal table — the same kind of squad I’d go on those late-night diner runs with in college. They were celebrating, or consoling themselves, with a bubbling pot of galbijjim (short rib stew) that the server ceremoniously scorched with a blow torch until the cheese on top was brown-speckled and melty. I wasn’t sure how their night had gone up until then, but it seemed clear that they were ending it in the best possible way.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/baypocha/\">\u003ci>Bay Pocha\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is located at 2642 Ocean Ave. in San Francisco. The restaurant is open Monday through Thursday from 5 p.m.–midnight, Friday and Saturday 5 p.m.–1 a.m. and Sunday 5–11:30 p.m.; it’s also open for lunch 11 a.m.–2 p.m. daily.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The Korean pub on Ocean Avenue in SF is known for its bossam pork belly wraps and hearty, shareable soups.",
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"title": "Bay Pocha in SF Is a Korean Pub Made for Late-Night Feasts | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961332\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961332\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: One diner at a Korean restaurant shoves a lettuce wrap into his mouth while another eats noodles from a pot of stew.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bay Pocha sets itself apart from the crowd of Korean pubs by serving big, shareable, celebratory dishes like its bossam (pork belly wraps). The San Francisco restaurant is open until 1 a.m. on weekends. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in college, my friends and I would eat at the Fontainbleau Diner in Piscataway, New Jersey, every Thursday night after our weekly club meeting. This meant 10 or 20 of us, mostly Asian American, rolling in at 10 p.m. to commandeer a row of pushed-together two-tops. We were loud and giddy, reveling in our Monte Cristos, chicken fingers and root beer floats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, here in the Bay Area, a lot of the late-night restaurants aren’t built for that kind of large-group merrymaking — not when you’re squished up at a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13957143/late-night-japanese-whisky-highball-karaage-sunnyvale-nokori\">tiny bar counter\u003c/a> or, in some cases, there \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13959808/golden-boy-pizza-north-beach-sf-late-night\">isn’t any seating at all\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://baypocha.menu11.com/\">Bay Pocha\u003c/a>, a Korean pub on Ocean Avenue near Stonestown, is the exception that proves the rule. Even though it isn’t a particularly big restaurant, a long communal table, spacious enough to fit 20 people, runs down the center of the dining room, and the menu skews toward hearty, shareable dishes: bubbling stews and hot pots, and big platters piled high with braised and stir-fried meats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Named after Korea’s famed “pocha” (or \u003ca href=\"https://la.eater.com/2020/8/13/21366722/koreatown-pojangmacha-street-food-parking-look-outdoor-dining-los-angeles\">pojangmacha\u003c/a>) street carts and semi-outdoor food stalls, Bay Pocha has a similar aesthetic to \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13952823/zzan-korean-fried-chicken-late-night-san-francisco\">other Korean pubs in the Bay Area\u003c/a> with its cheery K-pop soundtrack and neon-lit signs advertising soju and Korean beer brands. On weekends, it’s open until 1 a.m. and, on a recent Friday night, it only seemed to get busier and more rambunctious as the night got later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The broad menu runs through the greatest hits of the kind of booze-friendly food you would find at your standard Bay Area soju bang: Korean fried chicken, cheese corn, tteokbokki. But where Bay Pocha sets itself apart is in its selection of big, celebratory dishes — the kind you’re surprised and delighted to be able to share with a group of friends at 11 o’clock at night. That includes harder-to-find dishes like spicy stir-fried chicken feet and jokbal, a.k.a. braised pig trotters, which Bay Pocha offers in both spicy and non-spicy versions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961334\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961334\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2.jpg\" alt='Illustration: Facade of a Korean restaurant; the sign reads, \"Bay Pocha.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant is perfect for a late meal with a big group of friends. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But we had mainly come for the hidden star of the menu, the bossam, or braised pork belly wraps, which is probably the dish Bay Pocha is best known for, even though it isn’t listed on the menu — you have to know to ask for it. It’s a huge platter of tender, fatty meat, cut into thick slices and fanned out like a beautiful flower, with a salad of thinly slivered scallions piled in the center. Make sure you also order the ssam set — a plate of lettuce, raw and pickled jalapeños, raw garlic and spicy ssamjang sauce — so that you can eat the pork belly Korean-style, as lettuce wraps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>For each ssam, you’ll want a couple of slices of pork, a tangle of scallion salad, a smear of ssamjang, maybe some kimchi and, if you’re like me, an unconscionable amount of garlic. Build each wrap on your plate or do it “freestyle,” the way I learned from watching too many Korean dramas, holding the lettuce leaf in front of your mouth like you’re setting a trap, then \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@plumsoju/video/6799690626007977221?lang=en\">chopsticking all of the other ingredients into the leaf in one smooth motion\u003c/a>. Take it down in one bite if you can. Either way, the result is delicious — unctuous and meaty, spicy and sharp, with enough freshness from the lettuce that you don’t feel weighed down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other thing the restaurant does well is its ample selection of shareable stews and hot pots, the most striking of which is the army stew, or budae jjigae, a Korean pub staple whose use of American processed foods has its \u003ca href=\"https://www.atlasobscura.com/foods/budae-jjigae-army-stew-spam\">roots in the U.S. post-war military occupation of South Korea\u003c/a>. At Bay Pocha, they light up a portable gas burner, then bring the big pot of bubbling red broth to your table to finish cooking. The soup comes loaded with spicy pork, Spam, sliced up hot dogs, onions, kimchi, tofu, two different kinds of rice cakes, and a big block of instant ramen topped with two slices of American cheese. It is \u003ci>a lot\u003c/i>. But for us, it was pure comfort food. The salty, spicy broth got more and more flavorful as the night went on, and with some white rice on the side to soak up the soup, we stretched the leftovers into two more meals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As if on cue, toward the end of the night, a boisterous, Cantonese-speaking adult volleyball or baseball team in matching red jackets came in and spread themselves out at the long communal table — the same kind of squad I’d go on those late-night diner runs with in college. They were celebrating, or consoling themselves, with a bubbling pot of galbijjim (short rib stew) that the server ceremoniously scorched with a blow torch until the cheese on top was brown-speckled and melty. I wasn’t sure how their night had gone up until then, but it seemed clear that they were ending it in the best possible way.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/baypocha/\">\u003ci>Bay Pocha\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is located at 2642 Ocean Ave. in San Francisco. The restaurant is open Monday through Thursday from 5 p.m.–midnight, Friday and Saturday 5 p.m.–1 a.m. and Sunday 5–11:30 p.m.; it’s also open for lunch 11 a.m.–2 p.m. daily.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "sonoran-flour-tortillas-san-jose-mirandas",
"title": "This San Jose Tortilleria Makes the Best Sonoran Flour Tortillas in the South Bay",
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"headTitle": "This San Jose Tortilleria Makes the Best Sonoran Flour Tortillas in the South Bay | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>In the United States, many Mexican food enthusiasts don’t consider flour tortillas to be as “authentic” as corn tortillas, \u003ca href=\"https://www.splendidtable.org/story/2018/04/19/in-defense-of-flour-tortillas-an-origin-story-with-gustavo-arellano\">arguing that they’re not a real part of the cuisine\u003c/a>. And it’s true that the mass-produced flour tortillas you find in a Crunchwrap Supreme or packaged at the grocery store tend to compromise everything in favor of shelf stability. They have the same texture and flavor profile as a sheet of paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in the state of Sonora, in northern Mexico, flour tortillas are a centuries-long tradition. These handmade tortillas are both chewy and delicate, and they take on the subtle flavor of the fat used to make them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Diana Miranda Benitez moved from Ciudad Obregón, Sonora, to San Jose, she grew frustrated with the poor imitations sold at the local markets. “I couldn’t find a quality flour tortilla in the U.S.,” she says, “and I always had this idea of starting a tortilleria.” At the time, Benitez worked at a Jack in the Box while doing housekeeping gigs on the side. She learned how to make tortillas from her sister-in-law, who also introduced her to a man in the mechanical tortilla press industry. After some hesitation, she purchased an industrial-grade tortilla press from Sonora and started her business — \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mirandas_tortillas_/\">Miranda’s Tortillas\u003c/a> — in 2022.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, Benitez and her team produce roughly 200 eight-inch tortillas per hour in assembly-line fashion. Benitez dances along to the rhythm of the machine, quickly swapping each newly flattened tortilla with a pre-portioned ball of dough. The raw tortilla is transferred to a hot comal and cooked on both sides until it’s covered in brown spots. Once it puffs up, it’s placed on a wire rack to cool. Miranda’s sells tortillas by the dozen, producing a minimum of 35 packs a day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961225\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961225\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas.jpg\" alt=\"A stack of flour tortillas, blistered in spots.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A stack of Miranda’s fresh flour tortillas, which are chewy and delicate, with a rich flavor from the addition of butter and shortening. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Every week, new customers find Benitez through Instagram and word of mouth. Her reputation? That she makes the best flour tortillas in the San Jose area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Benitez is proud of her tortillas’ texture and their ability to maintain their quality over time. “Flour tortillas don’t get hard, and when you warm them up, it’s as if they’re freshly cooked,” she says. The tortillas are rich from the inclusion of both vegetable shortening and butter. They’re also pliable, so you can use them to make a burrito with a double scoop of rice and beans without worrying about tearing. To truly savor the tortillas’ flavor, gently reheat one on a comal — or in a nonstick pan — and enjoy it with some melted butter and a pinch of salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13960139,arts_13958466,arts_13958172']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>For now, Benitez only sells the one size and style of flour tortilla. But she also provides a direct link to the flavors of Sonora in other ways. She sells ingredients imported from the region like machaca, a dehydrated shredded meat popular in the region. And she keeps a stock of what is considered to be the mother of all chiles — \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/what-are-chiltepin-chiles\">chiltepín\u003c/a>. The chiles are worth picking up because they’re rare in California, and they’re great for making a salsa to pair with those flour tortillas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Mexican food lovers accustomed to only eating corn tortillas, these homemade flour tortillas offer an entirely different taste experience: They’re larger and chewier, and have an extra richness thanks to the addition of fat. In many ways, flour tortillas in the Bay Area are now following a similar path that corn tortillas did during their renaissance, in the 2010s, when the improving quality of the masa available here made the way for tortillas that taste closer to the ones you find in Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961226\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961226\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press.jpg\" alt=\"Flattened tortilla dough on an industrial tortilla press.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Diana Miranda Benitez and her team can make about 200 tortillas in an hour, assembly line–style. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the same way, the Bay Area’s emerging \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/flour-tortillas-bay-area-xulo-semilla-mamacuca-17001425.php\">artisanal flour tortilla\u003c/a> scene is also driven by experimentation and the desire to recreate a taste of home. \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/12/16/22177318/xulo-flour-tortillas-berkeley-pop-up-michael-de-la-torre\">Xulo\u003c/a> — a Berkeley-born pop-up whose flour tortillas are now sold at mainstream grocery stores like Berkeley Bowl— offers tortillas made with traditional manteca (pork fat), but also versions that swap it out for olive oil, duck fat and grass-fed butter. At East Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/tacos-mama-cuca-oakland-19379525.php\">Tacos Mama Cuca\u003c/a>, the flour tortillas the chef uses to make her Sonoran-style tacos are a tether to her home and family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Miranda’s Tortillas appears to be the first business to bring these high-quality Sonoran flour tortillas to San Jose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of Benitez’s customers are Sonoran immigrants who couldn’t find the tortillas they were used to back home. But the buzz around Miranda’s isn’t limited to people looking for a taste of nostalgia. “A lot of people who buy my tortillas are from Sonora,” says Benitez, “but I also get customers who are from other parts of Mexico and even other countries.” Local taquerias have also started buying her tortillas to use in their burritos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eventually, Benitez hopes to put a flour tortilla on everyone’s table. “I’m working on getting a trailer,” Benitez says. “In the future, I’d like for my tortillas to be sold in grocery stores.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Miranda’s Tortillas is open Tuesday–Saturday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Text 408-690-6565 or send a message on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mirandas_tortillas_/\">\u003ci>Instagram\u003c/i>\u003c/a> t\u003ci>o place an order (and for the exact pickup location in San Jose)\u003c/i>\u003ci>. Tortillas are $8 per dozen.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In the United States, many Mexican food enthusiasts don’t consider flour tortillas to be as “authentic” as corn tortillas, \u003ca href=\"https://www.splendidtable.org/story/2018/04/19/in-defense-of-flour-tortillas-an-origin-story-with-gustavo-arellano\">arguing that they’re not a real part of the cuisine\u003c/a>. And it’s true that the mass-produced flour tortillas you find in a Crunchwrap Supreme or packaged at the grocery store tend to compromise everything in favor of shelf stability. They have the same texture and flavor profile as a sheet of paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in the state of Sonora, in northern Mexico, flour tortillas are a centuries-long tradition. These handmade tortillas are both chewy and delicate, and they take on the subtle flavor of the fat used to make them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Diana Miranda Benitez moved from Ciudad Obregón, Sonora, to San Jose, she grew frustrated with the poor imitations sold at the local markets. “I couldn’t find a quality flour tortilla in the U.S.,” she says, “and I always had this idea of starting a tortilleria.” At the time, Benitez worked at a Jack in the Box while doing housekeeping gigs on the side. She learned how to make tortillas from her sister-in-law, who also introduced her to a man in the mechanical tortilla press industry. After some hesitation, she purchased an industrial-grade tortilla press from Sonora and started her business — \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mirandas_tortillas_/\">Miranda’s Tortillas\u003c/a> — in 2022.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, Benitez and her team produce roughly 200 eight-inch tortillas per hour in assembly-line fashion. Benitez dances along to the rhythm of the machine, quickly swapping each newly flattened tortilla with a pre-portioned ball of dough. The raw tortilla is transferred to a hot comal and cooked on both sides until it’s covered in brown spots. Once it puffs up, it’s placed on a wire rack to cool. Miranda’s sells tortillas by the dozen, producing a minimum of 35 packs a day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961225\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961225\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas.jpg\" alt=\"A stack of flour tortillas, blistered in spots.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A stack of Miranda’s fresh flour tortillas, which are chewy and delicate, with a rich flavor from the addition of butter and shortening. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Every week, new customers find Benitez through Instagram and word of mouth. Her reputation? That she makes the best flour tortillas in the San Jose area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Benitez is proud of her tortillas’ texture and their ability to maintain their quality over time. “Flour tortillas don’t get hard, and when you warm them up, it’s as if they’re freshly cooked,” she says. The tortillas are rich from the inclusion of both vegetable shortening and butter. They’re also pliable, so you can use them to make a burrito with a double scoop of rice and beans without worrying about tearing. To truly savor the tortillas’ flavor, gently reheat one on a comal — or in a nonstick pan — and enjoy it with some melted butter and a pinch of salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>For now, Benitez only sells the one size and style of flour tortilla. But she also provides a direct link to the flavors of Sonora in other ways. She sells ingredients imported from the region like machaca, a dehydrated shredded meat popular in the region. And she keeps a stock of what is considered to be the mother of all chiles — \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/what-are-chiltepin-chiles\">chiltepín\u003c/a>. The chiles are worth picking up because they’re rare in California, and they’re great for making a salsa to pair with those flour tortillas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Mexican food lovers accustomed to only eating corn tortillas, these homemade flour tortillas offer an entirely different taste experience: They’re larger and chewier, and have an extra richness thanks to the addition of fat. In many ways, flour tortillas in the Bay Area are now following a similar path that corn tortillas did during their renaissance, in the 2010s, when the improving quality of the masa available here made the way for tortillas that taste closer to the ones you find in Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961226\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961226\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press.jpg\" alt=\"Flattened tortilla dough on an industrial tortilla press.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Diana Miranda Benitez and her team can make about 200 tortillas in an hour, assembly line–style. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the same way, the Bay Area’s emerging \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/flour-tortillas-bay-area-xulo-semilla-mamacuca-17001425.php\">artisanal flour tortilla\u003c/a> scene is also driven by experimentation and the desire to recreate a taste of home. \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/12/16/22177318/xulo-flour-tortillas-berkeley-pop-up-michael-de-la-torre\">Xulo\u003c/a> — a Berkeley-born pop-up whose flour tortillas are now sold at mainstream grocery stores like Berkeley Bowl— offers tortillas made with traditional manteca (pork fat), but also versions that swap it out for olive oil, duck fat and grass-fed butter. At East Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/tacos-mama-cuca-oakland-19379525.php\">Tacos Mama Cuca\u003c/a>, the flour tortillas the chef uses to make her Sonoran-style tacos are a tether to her home and family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Miranda’s Tortillas appears to be the first business to bring these high-quality Sonoran flour tortillas to San Jose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of Benitez’s customers are Sonoran immigrants who couldn’t find the tortillas they were used to back home. But the buzz around Miranda’s isn’t limited to people looking for a taste of nostalgia. “A lot of people who buy my tortillas are from Sonora,” says Benitez, “but I also get customers who are from other parts of Mexico and even other countries.” Local taquerias have also started buying her tortillas to use in their burritos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eventually, Benitez hopes to put a flour tortilla on everyone’s table. “I’m working on getting a trailer,” Benitez says. “In the future, I’d like for my tortillas to be sold in grocery stores.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Miranda’s Tortillas is open Tuesday–Saturday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Text 408-690-6565 or send a message on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mirandas_tortillas_/\">\u003ci>Instagram\u003c/i>\u003c/a> t\u003ci>o place an order (and for the exact pickup location in San Jose)\u003c/i>\u003ci>. Tortillas are $8 per dozen.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>The Presidio’s popular Tunnel Tops Park will be home to a new food hall in 2025, park operators announced Tuesday. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.messhallpresidio.com\">The Mess Hall\u003c/a>, in a building adjacent to the park, will house a food hall, bar, cafe and retail market, scheduled to be open each day from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. It will be located at 201 Halleck St., with the park’s signature views of the Golden Gate Bridge, the Marin Headlands and Alcatraz. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While no specific tenants for The Mess Hall have been announced, the Presidio Trust, which operates the park, expects the hall to sell “fast-casual made-to-order meals, grab-and-go prepared options, and a provisions market featuring local specialties, imported favorites, and picnic essentials.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='news_11988111']Two out-of-towners have been brought on in key positions. Heading the Mess Hall’s food side is the James Beard Award–winning, Korean American chef \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/serpicopter/?hl=en\">Peter Serpico\u003c/a>, formerly of Momofuko, as well as his own restaurant, Serpico, in Philadelphia. In charge of the bar is Zach Negin, an owner of the Los Angeles bar Tabula Rasa and the Silverlake Lounge, a live music venue. (Negin is also a partner in San Francisco’s Dolores Deluxe, a corner store in the Mission.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Mess Hall also operates \u003ca href=\"https://www.messhallmarketoc.com/\">another location\u003c/a> in Orange County. Other current food options adjacent to Tunnel Tops Park include Il Parco, the Italian cafe that specializes in foccacia sourdough pizza, and the Presidio Pop-Up, a regular rotation of food trucks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The Presidio’s popular Tunnel Tops Park will be home to a new food hall in 2025, park operators announced Tuesday. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.messhallpresidio.com\">The Mess Hall\u003c/a>, in a building adjacent to the park, will house a food hall, bar, cafe and retail market, scheduled to be open each day from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. It will be located at 201 Halleck St., with the park’s signature views of the Golden Gate Bridge, the Marin Headlands and Alcatraz. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While no specific tenants for The Mess Hall have been announced, the Presidio Trust, which operates the park, expects the hall to sell “fast-casual made-to-order meals, grab-and-go prepared options, and a provisions market featuring local specialties, imported favorites, and picnic essentials.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Two out-of-towners have been brought on in key positions. Heading the Mess Hall’s food side is the James Beard Award–winning, Korean American chef \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/serpicopter/?hl=en\">Peter Serpico\u003c/a>, formerly of Momofuko, as well as his own restaurant, Serpico, in Philadelphia. In charge of the bar is Zach Negin, an owner of the Los Angeles bar Tabula Rasa and the Silverlake Lounge, a live music venue. (Negin is also a partner in San Francisco’s Dolores Deluxe, a corner store in the Mission.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Mess Hall also operates \u003ca href=\"https://www.messhallmarketoc.com/\">another location\u003c/a> in Orange County. Other current food options adjacent to Tunnel Tops Park include Il Parco, the Italian cafe that specializes in foccacia sourdough pizza, and the Presidio Pop-Up, a regular rotation of food trucks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961061\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961061\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: two men eat sandwiches on Dutch Crunch bread while a hookah pipe lets off a wisp of smoke behind them.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Redwood City’s The Sandwich Spot is a combination deli and late-night hookah lounge. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m no \u003ca href=\"https://www.reddit.com/r/hookah/comments/4qc1zg/food_and_shisha_pairings/\">hookah food-pairing\u003c/a> expert, but I never would have guessed that a hot Dutch Crunch deli sandwich, dripping with garlic sauce, would be the perfect match for an hour-long session with the shisha pipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that is the premise — and the genius — of \u003ca href=\"https://www.thesandwichspotrwc.com/\">The Sandwich Spot\u003c/a> in downtown Redwood City, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.thesandwichspot.com/about\">deli chain\u003c/a> outpost that stands apart from all of its sister locations in two important ways: 1) it’s open until at least midnight every night (1 a.m. on the weekend), and 2) the restaurant doubles as a vibey, slightly raucous hookah lounge in the evenings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we walked in at around 10:30 on a Friday night, it felt a little bit like we were pulling up to the club. On the left was a regular old sandwich counter, and there was a full bar on the right. But most of the real action was happening on the restaurant’s spacious covered patio, where the sound system blasted Kendrick Lamar and a mix of upbeat, danceable Arabic pop music while colorful disco lights made the floor and walls sparkle. Here, and in the long spillover tent on the sidewalk outside, big groups of twenty- and thirtysomethings sat around just kicking it — gossiping, talking shit and, of course, chomping down on some enormous sandwiches. Every once in a while, someone would take a deep drag on their hookah pipe and blow out a thick plume of smoke.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The place was so packed and boisterous, it felt like every single young(ish) person in Redwood City was there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Truth be told, even just having the option to get a good, fresh sandwich — especially a hot one — at 11 o’clock at night feels nearly miraculous in the Bay Area. (Plenty of customers came through just to pick up takeout orders to bring home.) With \u003ca href=\"https://www.thesandwichspot.com/copy-of-menu-locations-1\">30 locations\u003c/a> mostly spread around California, The Sandwich Spot belongs in the Ike’s-like genre of uniquely Northern Californian deli chains, with its unusual ingredient combinations; quirky, localized names (the “Bumgarner,” the “Smokin’ Sequoia”); variously zesty, spicy and garlicky sauces; and excellent Dutch Crunch bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961065\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961065\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Inside a bar, groups of friends chat. Hookah pipes with glowing red coals are placed next to the tables.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It felt like every young(ish) person in Redwood City was there — especially young Arab Americans and South Asians. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A sandwich called The Hangover was like a slightly funkified Bay Area take on a club sandwich, with hot turkey, cream cheese, avocado, “Bomb” sauce (like a tangy hot sauce), garlicky Kassi sauce, and a lot of crispy bacon — extremely satisfying on warm Dutch Crunch. The equally tasty Purple Koosh, an original Redwood City creation available only on Fridays, was a smoky variation on a similarly saucy theme, featuring house-smoked chicken, fried onion strings and a tangle of purple coleslaw. To round out the meal, we had air-fried Cajun fries, which came out hot and crispy even if they didn’t seem particularly Cajun, with a side of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13894684/toum-shawarmaji-jordanian-restaurant-oakland-garlic-sauce\">toum-like\u003c/a> garlic dipping sauce — a nod to the restaurant’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.thesandwichspotrwc.com/about\">Lebanese ownership\u003c/a>, perhaps — that made everything taste five times more delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13960432,arts_13958926,arts_13955884']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>All the while we fiddled, like the total amateurs we were, with the hookah pipe we’d ordered — trying and failing and then finally succeeding at getting a decent puff of the mango mint flavored tobacco that we’d chosen, the little cubes of charcoal on top of the bowl glowing bright red as we got deeper into the night. The truth was, we felt a little bit out of place at first in this crowd of mostly college kids and recent college grads. Call it “Portrait of Two Lonely Middle-Aged Men at the Hookah Bar.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even if we’d started out a bit dubious about the hookah/sandwich concept, it didn’t take long for us to get caught up in the mood. I’ll leave it to the medical experts to pontificate on the \u003ca href=\"https://www.cdc.gov/tobacco/data_statistics/fact_sheets/tobacco_industry/hookahs/\">health risks\u003c/a> associated with long-term hookah use, but the water pipe’s efficacy as a social lubricant and builder of community and feel-good vibes seems self-evident — especially among the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2023/07/20/style/hookah-dearborn-michigan.html\">young Arab Americans\u003c/a> and South Asians who made up a large chunk of The Sandwich Spot’s late-night crowd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sitting out on one of the sidewalk tables, with a cool breeze blowing through, we watched all those big groups of friends laughing and talking deep into the night, relaxed as can be, taking big bites of their sandwiches and blowing out even bigger puffs of smoke. Before long, we were already planning our return visit — because past 10 or 11 o’clock in Redwood City, what better way is there to pass a couple of pleasant hours with friends?\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thesandwichspotrwc.com/\">\u003ci>The Sandwich Spot\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Monday through Thursday from 10 a.m.–midnight, Friday and Saturday 10 a.m.–1 a.m. and Sunday 11 a.m.–midnight at 2420 Broadway in Redwood City. After 5 p.m., when the lounge starts serving hookah, it’s a 21-and-over-only venue, and the kitchen closes at 11 p.m. daily.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Smoke, vibes and good Dutch Crunch at The Sandwich Spot.",
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"title": "The Sandwich Spot Hookah Lounge Is Redwood City’s Late-Night Hotspot | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961061\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961061\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: two men eat sandwiches on Dutch Crunch bread while a hookah pipe lets off a wisp of smoke behind them.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Redwood City’s The Sandwich Spot is a combination deli and late-night hookah lounge. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m no \u003ca href=\"https://www.reddit.com/r/hookah/comments/4qc1zg/food_and_shisha_pairings/\">hookah food-pairing\u003c/a> expert, but I never would have guessed that a hot Dutch Crunch deli sandwich, dripping with garlic sauce, would be the perfect match for an hour-long session with the shisha pipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that is the premise — and the genius — of \u003ca href=\"https://www.thesandwichspotrwc.com/\">The Sandwich Spot\u003c/a> in downtown Redwood City, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.thesandwichspot.com/about\">deli chain\u003c/a> outpost that stands apart from all of its sister locations in two important ways: 1) it’s open until at least midnight every night (1 a.m. on the weekend), and 2) the restaurant doubles as a vibey, slightly raucous hookah lounge in the evenings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we walked in at around 10:30 on a Friday night, it felt a little bit like we were pulling up to the club. On the left was a regular old sandwich counter, and there was a full bar on the right. But most of the real action was happening on the restaurant’s spacious covered patio, where the sound system blasted Kendrick Lamar and a mix of upbeat, danceable Arabic pop music while colorful disco lights made the floor and walls sparkle. Here, and in the long spillover tent on the sidewalk outside, big groups of twenty- and thirtysomethings sat around just kicking it — gossiping, talking shit and, of course, chomping down on some enormous sandwiches. Every once in a while, someone would take a deep drag on their hookah pipe and blow out a thick plume of smoke.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The place was so packed and boisterous, it felt like every single young(ish) person in Redwood City was there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Truth be told, even just having the option to get a good, fresh sandwich — especially a hot one — at 11 o’clock at night feels nearly miraculous in the Bay Area. (Plenty of customers came through just to pick up takeout orders to bring home.) With \u003ca href=\"https://www.thesandwichspot.com/copy-of-menu-locations-1\">30 locations\u003c/a> mostly spread around California, The Sandwich Spot belongs in the Ike’s-like genre of uniquely Northern Californian deli chains, with its unusual ingredient combinations; quirky, localized names (the “Bumgarner,” the “Smokin’ Sequoia”); variously zesty, spicy and garlicky sauces; and excellent Dutch Crunch bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961065\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961065\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Inside a bar, groups of friends chat. Hookah pipes with glowing red coals are placed next to the tables.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SH2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It felt like every young(ish) person in Redwood City was there — especially young Arab Americans and South Asians. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A sandwich called The Hangover was like a slightly funkified Bay Area take on a club sandwich, with hot turkey, cream cheese, avocado, “Bomb” sauce (like a tangy hot sauce), garlicky Kassi sauce, and a lot of crispy bacon — extremely satisfying on warm Dutch Crunch. The equally tasty Purple Koosh, an original Redwood City creation available only on Fridays, was a smoky variation on a similarly saucy theme, featuring house-smoked chicken, fried onion strings and a tangle of purple coleslaw. To round out the meal, we had air-fried Cajun fries, which came out hot and crispy even if they didn’t seem particularly Cajun, with a side of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13894684/toum-shawarmaji-jordanian-restaurant-oakland-garlic-sauce\">toum-like\u003c/a> garlic dipping sauce — a nod to the restaurant’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.thesandwichspotrwc.com/about\">Lebanese ownership\u003c/a>, perhaps — that made everything taste five times more delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>All the while we fiddled, like the total amateurs we were, with the hookah pipe we’d ordered — trying and failing and then finally succeeding at getting a decent puff of the mango mint flavored tobacco that we’d chosen, the little cubes of charcoal on top of the bowl glowing bright red as we got deeper into the night. The truth was, we felt a little bit out of place at first in this crowd of mostly college kids and recent college grads. Call it “Portrait of Two Lonely Middle-Aged Men at the Hookah Bar.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even if we’d started out a bit dubious about the hookah/sandwich concept, it didn’t take long for us to get caught up in the mood. I’ll leave it to the medical experts to pontificate on the \u003ca href=\"https://www.cdc.gov/tobacco/data_statistics/fact_sheets/tobacco_industry/hookahs/\">health risks\u003c/a> associated with long-term hookah use, but the water pipe’s efficacy as a social lubricant and builder of community and feel-good vibes seems self-evident — especially among the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2023/07/20/style/hookah-dearborn-michigan.html\">young Arab Americans\u003c/a> and South Asians who made up a large chunk of The Sandwich Spot’s late-night crowd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sitting out on one of the sidewalk tables, with a cool breeze blowing through, we watched all those big groups of friends laughing and talking deep into the night, relaxed as can be, taking big bites of their sandwiches and blowing out even bigger puffs of smoke. Before long, we were already planning our return visit — because past 10 or 11 o’clock in Redwood City, what better way is there to pass a couple of pleasant hours with friends?\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thesandwichspotrwc.com/\">\u003ci>The Sandwich Spot\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Monday through Thursday from 10 a.m.–midnight, Friday and Saturday 10 a.m.–1 a.m. and Sunday 11 a.m.–midnight at 2420 Broadway in Redwood City. After 5 p.m., when the lounge starts serving hookah, it’s a 21-and-over-only venue, and the kitchen closes at 11 p.m. daily.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "man-must-wak-west-african-market-a-new-restaurant-oakland-lake-merritt",
"title": "Beloved African and Caribbean Market Is Opening a New Restaurant in Oakland",
"publishDate": 1720711853,
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"headTitle": "Beloved African and Caribbean Market Is Opening a New Restaurant in Oakland | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>A few weeks ago on a formerly quiet corner near Lake Merritt, anyone buzzing by on 18th Street might have spotted a freshly painted building in juicy mango yellow. A small crowd gathered around a colorful mural while tables and umbrellas spilled across the parking lot and the smoky scent of jollof rice and jerk chicken filled the air.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Welcome to the new flagship for \u003ca href=\"https://manmustwak.net\">Man Must Wak\u003c/a>, one of the few African and Caribbean markets in the Bay Area. The store celebrated the grand opening of its new Oakland location on Saturday, June 15, and announced plans to build out a fast-casual restaurant on the premises by summer 2025. “This is a decades-long dream,” says owner Queenkay Amamgbo. “I wanted a place where I could have a kitchen and a parking lot.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Man Must Wak has been serving the community for 26 years. “It’s one of the first African grocery stores in the Bay Area,” says Kemi Tijaniqudus of \u003ca href=\"https://thejollofkitchen.com\">Jollof Kitchen\u003c/a>, the Nigerian food truck. “That’s where I started going since the minute I stepped into this country.” She’s one of many local chefs who are regulars, along with Frantz Felix of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13936332/tchaka-haitian-restaurant-oakland\">T’chaka\u003c/a> and Roxanne Mosley of \u003ca href=\"https://sweetfingersrestaurant.com\">Sweet Fingers\u003c/a>. The original market on 8th Street in Old Oakland is the place to go for hard-to-find ingredients that offer a taste of home, like goat, stockfish, egusi (melon seeds) and plantain chips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amamgbo, the owner, grew up in Lagos and comes from the Igbo tribe of southeast Nigeria. She moved to the States when she was 18 to live with an aunt in Washington, D.C., before continuing to Hollywood to pursue a career in acting. There she met her first husband Charles Emeka Amamgbo, a businessman headed to Holland or back to Nigeria. The couple compromised and settled in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960959\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960959\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"Afro-Caribbean market Man Must Wak's bright yellow storefront with a mural depicting a woman strolling through a bustling African outdoor market.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The market’s new location — just a couple of blocks away from Lake Merritt — will eventually feature a fast-casual restaurant. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Charles opened the original Man Must Wak in downtown Oakland in 1998. Amamgbo says he was tired of working for European companies and loved serving the West African community. “He liked to help people. People came in for advice and to seek solace,” Amamgbo says. “I learned a lot from him, that you should have a safe space for people to come to.” The name Man Must Wak literally means “man must eat” in Nigerian Pidgin, so it’s slang for a universal truth: “Whether you’re paying with EBT or an Amex Black Card, we’ve all gotta eat.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Charles died from leukemia in 2007 at only 43 years old. Amamgbo became a young widow at 33, with their two little boys then six and three. She had been busy working a corporate job and taking care of a sick husband. She knew the vendors and customers at the market but hadn’t looked at the books. When she inherited Man Must Wak, she realized the business was $100,000 in debt, had not paid taxes for four or five years, and was behind on payments to vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13936332,arts_13960580']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>She ran Man Must Wak by herself as a single mom for the next decade, with the support of close family and friends and loyal employees. In the beginning, she heard some people placed bets on how many months she would last before she closed shop and moved back to L.A. “I just went tunnel-vision and focused on survival mode,” Amamgbo says. “It’s through tragedy or loss that you know who really cares about you.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Years later, a lady from church told Amamgbo to get coffee with this “really nice guy.” Amamgbo recognized Dennis Itua, a former customer who had moved away for a few years. She liked his dimples and creative streak as an interior designer, but wasn’t convinced — “he was very quiet.” When they did finally get together, Itua said, “You just be your Oprah, and I’ll be your Stedman,” referring to the TV star’s longtime partner. A couple of years ago, when the real Stedman Graham came into Man Must Wak, Itua happened to be in the shop to casually greet the celebrity. Shoppers in the store were delighted and it blew up on Facebook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960860\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960860\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL.jpg\" alt=\"A married couple shares a laugh while standing behind the counter inside the market they run.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Amamgbo and husband Dennis Itua stand behind the counter at the E. 18th Street location of Man Must Wak. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The couple got married in 2017, and Itua has been an integral part of the business ever since. Along with their three boys: Chika Amamgbo (22 years old) recently graduated from Howard University, Lota Amamgbo (19) is going to study arts at SF State and Ero Itua (20) is at film school in L.A. They’ve all worked weekends and summers stocking shelves and bagging groceries. “We want to build a strong, solid legacy,” Amamgbo says. “You don’t have to work here, but this is going to be something you can be part of and run.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new market by Lake Merritt will eventually be triple the size of the original. Amamgbo took out an SBA loan to buy the entire standalone building. The market itself is 7,500 square feet, the parking lot is 2,000 square feet and they plan to build out and up, adding an extension and rooftop deck. For now, they started with a fresh coat of yellow paint and rolled in shelves. Amamgbo’s nephew, the artist Gabriel Olubori Babaoye, painted the mural on the storefront, inspired by an African woman wading through a bustling market. The big renovation is still to come, but the vision for the fast-casual restaurant is a hot bar lined with steaming trays of grilled meats, fried rice and more. So you’ll swing through the door, hit the hot bar right in the center, peruse the market over to the left, and snag a seat at one of the tables outside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960962\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960962\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize.jpg\" alt=\"Meat cooking on a grill.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize.jpg 1600w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Meat sizzling on the grill during Man Must Wak’s grand opening event on June 15, 2024. \u003ccite>(Joseph Sintum Photography, courtesy of Man Must Wak)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960946\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960946\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A woman shows off a bag of Scotch bonnet peppers.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Amamgbo shows off a package of frozen Scotch bonnet peppers — just one of the many Afro-Caribbean specialty ingredients her market carries. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>They plan to add the restaurant by summer 2025. Itua, the chef of the family, grew up in hospitality — his father owned hotels, restaurants and bakeries in Nigeria. He’s been cooking behind the scenes for years, handling all of the prepared foods and catering. “It’ll be a fusion of African and Caribbean cuisine,” Amamgbo says. “The best of both worlds.” She’s already talking big game about their jollof rice. “The best Nigerian jollof rice. Period.” Itua’s specialty is a whole fish which he seasons and grills “to perfection.” Jamaican favorites will include curry goat and jerk chicken, along with spinach sauce, okra sauce and moi moi (bean pudding).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For longtime fans of the Man Must Wak, it’ll be exciting to swing by and try hot items for the first time. And for a whole new audience of Oakland diners, it’s a rare opportunity to taste West African home cooking in a central location. Star chef Pierre Thiam, who just made the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C8J_y75yhdm/?hl=en&img_index=1\">James Beard Cookbook Hall of Fame\u003c/a>, says he can’t wait. “West African cuisine is finally getting recognized worldwide,” Thiam says. He cites restaurants like \u003ca href=\"https://www.tatiananyc.com\">Tatiana\u003c/a> in New York, an impossible-to-get reservation, and \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/greater-london/london/restaurant/ikoyi\">Ikoyi\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/greater-london/london/restaurant/akoko\">Akoko\u003c/a> in London, which finally snagged Michelin stars, and insists it’s just as important to have an accessible market and restaurant in the heart of Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“She’s a strong personality. She’s a queen,” he says of Amamgbo. “You have to respect that … Culture is so powerful, and that really is a blessing for us West Africans to have a place like that, and it’s a blessing for others who haven’t experienced it before.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960964\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1999px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960964\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A man and woman stand in front of the yellow mural that decorates the front of their Afro-Caribbean market.\" width=\"1999\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed.jpg 1999w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1999px) 100vw, 1999px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Amamgbo and Itua stand in front of their new Lake Merritt storefront. The restaurant portion of the business is expected to open in summer 2025. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, while the restaurant is still in the works, Amamgbo plans to get this party started. The new market is already fully open for business, and Itua will be firing up the grill for more events in the parking lot this summer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We are your home away from home, a place where you go to feel loved and accepted,” Amamgbo says. “You’re not judged for being too loud, because we are loud.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Man Must Wak’s new market and forthcoming restaurant is located at 401 E. 18th St. in Oakland, near Lake Merritt; its current hours are 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. daily. The original Old Oakland location remains open 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. daily at 547 8th St. Follow the market’s \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/manmustwak/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Instagram\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> page for updates and details about upcoming events.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "Beloved Afro-Caribbean Market Will Open a Restaurant in Oakland | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>A few weeks ago on a formerly quiet corner near Lake Merritt, anyone buzzing by on 18th Street might have spotted a freshly painted building in juicy mango yellow. A small crowd gathered around a colorful mural while tables and umbrellas spilled across the parking lot and the smoky scent of jollof rice and jerk chicken filled the air.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Welcome to the new flagship for \u003ca href=\"https://manmustwak.net\">Man Must Wak\u003c/a>, one of the few African and Caribbean markets in the Bay Area. The store celebrated the grand opening of its new Oakland location on Saturday, June 15, and announced plans to build out a fast-casual restaurant on the premises by summer 2025. “This is a decades-long dream,” says owner Queenkay Amamgbo. “I wanted a place where I could have a kitchen and a parking lot.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Man Must Wak has been serving the community for 26 years. “It’s one of the first African grocery stores in the Bay Area,” says Kemi Tijaniqudus of \u003ca href=\"https://thejollofkitchen.com\">Jollof Kitchen\u003c/a>, the Nigerian food truck. “That’s where I started going since the minute I stepped into this country.” She’s one of many local chefs who are regulars, along with Frantz Felix of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13936332/tchaka-haitian-restaurant-oakland\">T’chaka\u003c/a> and Roxanne Mosley of \u003ca href=\"https://sweetfingersrestaurant.com\">Sweet Fingers\u003c/a>. The original market on 8th Street in Old Oakland is the place to go for hard-to-find ingredients that offer a taste of home, like goat, stockfish, egusi (melon seeds) and plantain chips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amamgbo, the owner, grew up in Lagos and comes from the Igbo tribe of southeast Nigeria. She moved to the States when she was 18 to live with an aunt in Washington, D.C., before continuing to Hollywood to pursue a career in acting. There she met her first husband Charles Emeka Amamgbo, a businessman headed to Holland or back to Nigeria. The couple compromised and settled in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960959\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960959\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"Afro-Caribbean market Man Must Wak's bright yellow storefront with a mural depicting a woman strolling through a bustling African outdoor market.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The market’s new location — just a couple of blocks away from Lake Merritt — will eventually feature a fast-casual restaurant. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Charles opened the original Man Must Wak in downtown Oakland in 1998. Amamgbo says he was tired of working for European companies and loved serving the West African community. “He liked to help people. People came in for advice and to seek solace,” Amamgbo says. “I learned a lot from him, that you should have a safe space for people to come to.” The name Man Must Wak literally means “man must eat” in Nigerian Pidgin, so it’s slang for a universal truth: “Whether you’re paying with EBT or an Amex Black Card, we’ve all gotta eat.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Charles died from leukemia in 2007 at only 43 years old. Amamgbo became a young widow at 33, with their two little boys then six and three. She had been busy working a corporate job and taking care of a sick husband. She knew the vendors and customers at the market but hadn’t looked at the books. When she inherited Man Must Wak, she realized the business was $100,000 in debt, had not paid taxes for four or five years, and was behind on payments to vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>She ran Man Must Wak by herself as a single mom for the next decade, with the support of close family and friends and loyal employees. In the beginning, she heard some people placed bets on how many months she would last before she closed shop and moved back to L.A. “I just went tunnel-vision and focused on survival mode,” Amamgbo says. “It’s through tragedy or loss that you know who really cares about you.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Years later, a lady from church told Amamgbo to get coffee with this “really nice guy.” Amamgbo recognized Dennis Itua, a former customer who had moved away for a few years. She liked his dimples and creative streak as an interior designer, but wasn’t convinced — “he was very quiet.” When they did finally get together, Itua said, “You just be your Oprah, and I’ll be your Stedman,” referring to the TV star’s longtime partner. A couple of years ago, when the real Stedman Graham came into Man Must Wak, Itua happened to be in the shop to casually greet the celebrity. Shoppers in the store were delighted and it blew up on Facebook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960860\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960860\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL.jpg\" alt=\"A married couple shares a laugh while standing behind the counter inside the market they run.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Amamgbo and husband Dennis Itua stand behind the counter at the E. 18th Street location of Man Must Wak. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The couple got married in 2017, and Itua has been an integral part of the business ever since. Along with their three boys: Chika Amamgbo (22 years old) recently graduated from Howard University, Lota Amamgbo (19) is going to study arts at SF State and Ero Itua (20) is at film school in L.A. They’ve all worked weekends and summers stocking shelves and bagging groceries. “We want to build a strong, solid legacy,” Amamgbo says. “You don’t have to work here, but this is going to be something you can be part of and run.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new market by Lake Merritt will eventually be triple the size of the original. Amamgbo took out an SBA loan to buy the entire standalone building. The market itself is 7,500 square feet, the parking lot is 2,000 square feet and they plan to build out and up, adding an extension and rooftop deck. For now, they started with a fresh coat of yellow paint and rolled in shelves. Amamgbo’s nephew, the artist Gabriel Olubori Babaoye, painted the mural on the storefront, inspired by an African woman wading through a bustling market. The big renovation is still to come, but the vision for the fast-casual restaurant is a hot bar lined with steaming trays of grilled meats, fried rice and more. So you’ll swing through the door, hit the hot bar right in the center, peruse the market over to the left, and snag a seat at one of the tables outside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960962\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960962\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize.jpg\" alt=\"Meat cooking on a grill.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize.jpg 1600w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Meat sizzling on the grill during Man Must Wak’s grand opening event on June 15, 2024. \u003ccite>(Joseph Sintum Photography, courtesy of Man Must Wak)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960946\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960946\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A woman shows off a bag of Scotch bonnet peppers.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Amamgbo shows off a package of frozen Scotch bonnet peppers — just one of the many Afro-Caribbean specialty ingredients her market carries. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>They plan to add the restaurant by summer 2025. Itua, the chef of the family, grew up in hospitality — his father owned hotels, restaurants and bakeries in Nigeria. He’s been cooking behind the scenes for years, handling all of the prepared foods and catering. “It’ll be a fusion of African and Caribbean cuisine,” Amamgbo says. “The best of both worlds.” She’s already talking big game about their jollof rice. “The best Nigerian jollof rice. Period.” Itua’s specialty is a whole fish which he seasons and grills “to perfection.” Jamaican favorites will include curry goat and jerk chicken, along with spinach sauce, okra sauce and moi moi (bean pudding).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For longtime fans of the Man Must Wak, it’ll be exciting to swing by and try hot items for the first time. And for a whole new audience of Oakland diners, it’s a rare opportunity to taste West African home cooking in a central location. Star chef Pierre Thiam, who just made the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C8J_y75yhdm/?hl=en&img_index=1\">James Beard Cookbook Hall of Fame\u003c/a>, says he can’t wait. “West African cuisine is finally getting recognized worldwide,” Thiam says. He cites restaurants like \u003ca href=\"https://www.tatiananyc.com\">Tatiana\u003c/a> in New York, an impossible-to-get reservation, and \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/greater-london/london/restaurant/ikoyi\">Ikoyi\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/greater-london/london/restaurant/akoko\">Akoko\u003c/a> in London, which finally snagged Michelin stars, and insists it’s just as important to have an accessible market and restaurant in the heart of Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“She’s a strong personality. She’s a queen,” he says of Amamgbo. “You have to respect that … Culture is so powerful, and that really is a blessing for us West Africans to have a place like that, and it’s a blessing for others who haven’t experienced it before.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960964\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1999px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960964\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A man and woman stand in front of the yellow mural that decorates the front of their Afro-Caribbean market.\" width=\"1999\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed.jpg 1999w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1999px) 100vw, 1999px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Amamgbo and Itua stand in front of their new Lake Merritt storefront. The restaurant portion of the business is expected to open in summer 2025. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, while the restaurant is still in the works, Amamgbo plans to get this party started. The new market is already fully open for business, and Itua will be firing up the grill for more events in the parking lot this summer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We are your home away from home, a place where you go to feel loved and accepted,” Amamgbo says. “You’re not judged for being too loud, because we are loud.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Man Must Wak’s new market and forthcoming restaurant is located at 401 E. 18th St. in Oakland, near Lake Merritt; its current hours are 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. daily. The original Old Oakland location remains open 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. daily at 547 8th St. Follow the market’s \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/manmustwak/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Instagram\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> page for updates and details about upcoming events.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "peruvian-tea-coffee-papachay-emoliente-san-carlos-mountain-view",
"title": "A Hidden Cafe on the Peninsula Serves Rare Peruvian Coffee and Tea",
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"content": "\u003cp>For the average Bay Area caffeine seeker, Peruvian coffee and tea probably aren’t very high on the list of familiar options. Yet, Peru is \u003ca href=\"https://teajourney.pub/tea-in-peru/\">one of the highest tea-consuming nations in the Western Hemisphere\u003c/a>, largely due to the country’s high elevation. (In townships along the Andean peaks, tea made with coca leaves — of cocaine fame — is believed to prevent altitude sickness.) Peruvians have also become increasingly fond of coffee in recent years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But many Bay Area residents probably have never even heard of Peru’s choice beverages, let alone know where to get them. And who can blame them? Though Peruvian cuisine has done extremely well in our region — from local restaurant chains like Limón to smaller mom-and-pop shops like El Cerrito’s El Mono — there isn’t much of a Peruvian cafe scene to speak of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when I came across \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/papachayperuviancoffee/\">Papachay\u003c/a>, a husband-and-wife-owned brick-and-mortar located on a sleepy back street in the Peninsula city of San Carlos, I made my trek over. (In Quechan, an indigenous language in Peru, papachay is akin to saying “what’s up?” to a male friend; “mamay” is used to greet women).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960416\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960416\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"a man prepares a cup of fresh coffee inside a Peruvian cafe\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maximiliano Gambirazio, a Peruvian immigrant, has been operating Papachay for nearly 20 years. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The business is masterminded by Maximiliano Gambirazio (originally from Peru) and Juliana Zieira-Gambirazio (a Brazilian immigrant). Impressively, the couple started out in their San Carlos warehouse nearly 20 years ago, when they sold raw coffee beans to roasters before buying a roasting machine of their own and expanding their business to include wholesale roasted coffee. Now, they run a full-fledged cafe — which opened in 2018 — and pop up every Sunday at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.cafarmersmkts.com/mountain-view-farmers-market\">Mountain View Farmers’ Market\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It all started spreading by word of mouth. We would get notes under the door of people asking us to call [them] so they could visit to buy fresh brewed coffee,” Zieira-Gambirazio says. “That pushed us to open [the cafe], and we started getting a crowd of people. After that, we had some calls to the fire department because of the smoke coming from all the roasting we were doing. [The fire department] told us to put a sign that we’re coffee roasters. That brought us more people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zieira-Gambirazio isn’t aware of any other strictly Peruvian cafes in the greater Bay Area. What Papachay is doing might be unmatched. That’s because the couple owns two coffee farms in Peru — in a highly elevated rainforest on the eastern slope of the Andes, near the small town of Villa Rica. With the help of a family, they source their organic coffee beans directly from these farms. Translation: they’re legit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Specializing in Peruvian-origin coffee — as the massive “Peruvian Coffee” sign announces from the rooftop, like a 1920s hotel in Beverly Hills — the shop also sells Peruvian chocolate and Brazilian treats like pão de queijo (Brazilian cheese balls). But what caught my eye more than anything were the Peruvian teas. At its Sunday farmers market stand, the cafe brews emoliente, a mix of flax seed, plantain leaf, alfalfa sprout, toasted barley, Andean horsetail herb, cinnamon and cat’s claw bark. Native to Peru, the refreshing herbal drink is believed to help with digestive, circulatory and respiratory issues. The medicinal tea tastes earthy but not bitter, toasted but not burnt, balanced but not bland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Emoliente is a very common drink in Peru. You often see it being prepared and sold on the street. Everybody has their own recipe. We make ours from scratch,” says Zieira-Gambirazio.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960419\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960419\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"dried coffee fruit pulp \" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cascara, the dried skin and pulp of discarded coffee cherries, is used to brew an increasingly popular beverage in Peru. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Papachay also serves cascara, a tea-like beverage made from boiling the skin and pulp of dried coffee fruit husks to make a drink that has recently become more popular in Peru.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I don’t see many people having that in the Bay Area, or even in Peru, really,” she continues. “It’s new to Peruvians. It’s a mix of fruit flavor with a green tea texture on your tongue.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13932089,arts_13930727,arts_13928571']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>The reason you may have never heard of Peruvian cascara, or any other Peruvian coffee products for that matter, is due to the country’s internal political turmoil dating back to the 1980s, when \u003ca href=\"https://webarchive.archive.unhcr.org/20230521173955/https://www.refworld.org/docid/3f51fd694.html\">insurgent groups like Sendero Luminoso (the Shining Path) occupied isolated territories in Peru\u003c/a> that otherwise could have been used to cultivate coffee. Byproducts of the coffee industry such as cascara were therefore less available for decades. Instead, tea became popularized as the nation’s drink of choice, leading to emoliente’s rise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I first encountered Papachay at the Mountain View Farmers’ Market, a long line of coffee drinkers waited for their lattes and cold brew. Naturally, I ordered emoliente, something I’d never heard of until then. Though the drink is typically served hot, I asked to enjoy it with ice — something the owners were happy to do. After a few sips and light conversation with the friendly Latin Americans, they mentioned having a shop a few miles north.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960417\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960417\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"an imported coffee bag of Peruvian coffee beans\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-1920x2880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Papachay imports their coffee beans directly from Villa Rica, Peru. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Some days later, I made the drive over to their home base in San Carlos. That’s where I ordered cascara. It isn’t the kind of sugary morning drink you might find at Starbucks or Dunkin’ Donuts. Instead, the old-world beverage — which predates coffee itself — is a tangy mix of sweet and sour notes, most reminiscent of tamarind. Like emoliente, it’s consumed in Peru’s high-altitude areas and beloved for its health properties and organic freshness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although it provides a jolt of caffeine, it’s not meant to zap you awake with a quick rush of energy. Rather, Peruvian culture — and its teas — are meant for the long haul, for those steady uphill climbs (think Machu Picchu). Both cascara and emoliente share a smooth drinkability that doesn’t feel like it should be solely limited to a morning commute. In fact, most Peruvians prefer to drink cascara and emoliente in the evenings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps I’ll start to do the same.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/papachayperuviancoffee/\">\u003ci>Papachay Peruvian Coffee\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (1431 Old County Rd., San Carlos) is open Mon. through Fri. from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Every Sunday, they can be found at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.cafarmersmkts.com/mountain-view-farmers-market\">Mountain View Farmers’ Market\u003c/a> (600 W. Evelyn Ave., Mountain View) from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>For the average Bay Area caffeine seeker, Peruvian coffee and tea probably aren’t very high on the list of familiar options. Yet, Peru is \u003ca href=\"https://teajourney.pub/tea-in-peru/\">one of the highest tea-consuming nations in the Western Hemisphere\u003c/a>, largely due to the country’s high elevation. (In townships along the Andean peaks, tea made with coca leaves — of cocaine fame — is believed to prevent altitude sickness.) Peruvians have also become increasingly fond of coffee in recent years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But many Bay Area residents probably have never even heard of Peru’s choice beverages, let alone know where to get them. And who can blame them? Though Peruvian cuisine has done extremely well in our region — from local restaurant chains like Limón to smaller mom-and-pop shops like El Cerrito’s El Mono — there isn’t much of a Peruvian cafe scene to speak of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when I came across \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/papachayperuviancoffee/\">Papachay\u003c/a>, a husband-and-wife-owned brick-and-mortar located on a sleepy back street in the Peninsula city of San Carlos, I made my trek over. (In Quechan, an indigenous language in Peru, papachay is akin to saying “what’s up?” to a male friend; “mamay” is used to greet women).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960416\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960416\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"a man prepares a cup of fresh coffee inside a Peruvian cafe\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maximiliano Gambirazio, a Peruvian immigrant, has been operating Papachay for nearly 20 years. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The business is masterminded by Maximiliano Gambirazio (originally from Peru) and Juliana Zieira-Gambirazio (a Brazilian immigrant). Impressively, the couple started out in their San Carlos warehouse nearly 20 years ago, when they sold raw coffee beans to roasters before buying a roasting machine of their own and expanding their business to include wholesale roasted coffee. Now, they run a full-fledged cafe — which opened in 2018 — and pop up every Sunday at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.cafarmersmkts.com/mountain-view-farmers-market\">Mountain View Farmers’ Market\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It all started spreading by word of mouth. We would get notes under the door of people asking us to call [them] so they could visit to buy fresh brewed coffee,” Zieira-Gambirazio says. “That pushed us to open [the cafe], and we started getting a crowd of people. After that, we had some calls to the fire department because of the smoke coming from all the roasting we were doing. [The fire department] told us to put a sign that we’re coffee roasters. That brought us more people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zieira-Gambirazio isn’t aware of any other strictly Peruvian cafes in the greater Bay Area. What Papachay is doing might be unmatched. That’s because the couple owns two coffee farms in Peru — in a highly elevated rainforest on the eastern slope of the Andes, near the small town of Villa Rica. With the help of a family, they source their organic coffee beans directly from these farms. Translation: they’re legit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Specializing in Peruvian-origin coffee — as the massive “Peruvian Coffee” sign announces from the rooftop, like a 1920s hotel in Beverly Hills — the shop also sells Peruvian chocolate and Brazilian treats like pão de queijo (Brazilian cheese balls). But what caught my eye more than anything were the Peruvian teas. At its Sunday farmers market stand, the cafe brews emoliente, a mix of flax seed, plantain leaf, alfalfa sprout, toasted barley, Andean horsetail herb, cinnamon and cat’s claw bark. Native to Peru, the refreshing herbal drink is believed to help with digestive, circulatory and respiratory issues. The medicinal tea tastes earthy but not bitter, toasted but not burnt, balanced but not bland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Emoliente is a very common drink in Peru. You often see it being prepared and sold on the street. Everybody has their own recipe. We make ours from scratch,” says Zieira-Gambirazio.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960419\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960419\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"dried coffee fruit pulp \" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cascara, the dried skin and pulp of discarded coffee cherries, is used to brew an increasingly popular beverage in Peru. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Papachay also serves cascara, a tea-like beverage made from boiling the skin and pulp of dried coffee fruit husks to make a drink that has recently become more popular in Peru.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I don’t see many people having that in the Bay Area, or even in Peru, really,” she continues. “It’s new to Peruvians. It’s a mix of fruit flavor with a green tea texture on your tongue.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>The reason you may have never heard of Peruvian cascara, or any other Peruvian coffee products for that matter, is due to the country’s internal political turmoil dating back to the 1980s, when \u003ca href=\"https://webarchive.archive.unhcr.org/20230521173955/https://www.refworld.org/docid/3f51fd694.html\">insurgent groups like Sendero Luminoso (the Shining Path) occupied isolated territories in Peru\u003c/a> that otherwise could have been used to cultivate coffee. Byproducts of the coffee industry such as cascara were therefore less available for decades. Instead, tea became popularized as the nation’s drink of choice, leading to emoliente’s rise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I first encountered Papachay at the Mountain View Farmers’ Market, a long line of coffee drinkers waited for their lattes and cold brew. Naturally, I ordered emoliente, something I’d never heard of until then. Though the drink is typically served hot, I asked to enjoy it with ice — something the owners were happy to do. After a few sips and light conversation with the friendly Latin Americans, they mentioned having a shop a few miles north.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960417\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960417\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"an imported coffee bag of Peruvian coffee beans\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-1920x2880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Papachay imports their coffee beans directly from Villa Rica, Peru. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Some days later, I made the drive over to their home base in San Carlos. That’s where I ordered cascara. It isn’t the kind of sugary morning drink you might find at Starbucks or Dunkin’ Donuts. Instead, the old-world beverage — which predates coffee itself — is a tangy mix of sweet and sour notes, most reminiscent of tamarind. Like emoliente, it’s consumed in Peru’s high-altitude areas and beloved for its health properties and organic freshness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although it provides a jolt of caffeine, it’s not meant to zap you awake with a quick rush of energy. Rather, Peruvian culture — and its teas — are meant for the long haul, for those steady uphill climbs (think Machu Picchu). Both cascara and emoliente share a smooth drinkability that doesn’t feel like it should be solely limited to a morning commute. In fact, most Peruvians prefer to drink cascara and emoliente in the evenings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps I’ll start to do the same.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/papachayperuviancoffee/\">\u003ci>Papachay Peruvian Coffee\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (1431 Old County Rd., San Carlos) is open Mon. through Fri. from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Every Sunday, they can be found at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.cafarmersmkts.com/mountain-view-farmers-market\">Mountain View Farmers’ Market\u003c/a> (600 W. Evelyn Ave., Mountain View) from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "jollof-festival-oakland-west-african-food-competition-nigerian-sierra-leone",
"title": "At Jollof Festival Oakland, West African Chefs Face Off in a Battle Royale of Rice",
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"headTitle": "At Jollof Festival Oakland, West African Chefs Face Off in a Battle Royale of Rice | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>In West African diasporic communities, jollof rice isn’t just a delicious dish. It’s the red-tinged subject of a thousand dinner table squabbles, Facebook group feuds and friendly trash-talk sessions. Who makes it best? Is it Gambia or Senegal, where \u003ca href=\"https://trtafrika.com/lifestyle/the-unending-spicy-debate-on-west-africas-jollof-rice-17657471\">jollof rice is believed to have originated\u003c/a>? Or is it Nigeria or Ghana or one the many other countries across West Africa that have embraced and added their own unique twists to the beloved staple dish?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That eternal debate is the basis of \u003ca href=\"https://jolloffestival.com/\">Jollof Festival\u003c/a>, a touring nationwide cultural celebration and nationality-based jollof rice competition that will stop in 12 different cities this year, including Oakland on July 13.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kemi Tijaniqudus, who runs the Nigerian food truck \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jollofkitchen/\">Jollof Kitchen\u003c/a>, won the Oakland edition both years she competed, 2021 and 2023. Her victories are a point of pride, not just for herself but for the Bay Area’s broader Nigerian community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As she puts it, “People have different opinions, but hey, we always win. You can choose whatever you like, but I know I will take the crown.” In fact, Tijaniqudus says part of the reason she has retired from the competition and won’t be competing this year is because it’s unfair: “I already know Nigerian jollof is going to win.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If those sound like fighting words, that’s all part of the fun — and the friendly but heated rivalry — of Jollof Festival, where delicious food meets a healthy dose of cultural and nationalistic pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Co-produced by Jollof Festival founder Ishmael Osekre and two local collaborators — Quiana Webster and Dj Leone, both active participants in Oakland’s Afrobeats and R&B scenes — the Oakland event will feature local chefs and caterers competing on behalf of Ghana, Nigeria, Liberia, Senegal and Sierra Leone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13896069,arts_13953866,arts_13954267']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Here’s how it works: Anyone can pay a $10 general admission ticket to take part in the day’s festivities, which will include a range of West African food vendors; booths selling clothing, jewelry and art; and various cultural performances and family-friendly activities. But attendees who want a vote will have to buy a higher-tier ($45) ticket, which gives access to a blind tasting of jollof rice samples from each of the competitors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since it’s a blind tasting, a voter with roots in, say, Ghana technically wouldn’t be able to just automatically vote for the Ghanaian entry. The judging should be based on taste alone — though savvy jollof heads might still be able to sniff out their own mother country’s representative. For instance, Tijaniqudus explains that Nigerian jollof is famous for its telltale smokiness, so anyone familiar with that taste would have recognized her entry last year after taking one bite: “Oh shit, this is Nigerian jollof!” And Ralphina Seymoun, who represented Gambia at last year’s competition along with her husband Mohamed Bereteh, says she served a special white jollof — made with broken jasmine rice and no tomatoes — that you would only find in Gambia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960585\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960585\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/tutti-fruti-jollof.jpg\" alt=\"A takeout container of jollof rice and two plastic bags of juice.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/tutti-fruti-jollof.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/tutti-fruti-jollof-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/tutti-fruti-jollof-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/tutti-fruti-jollof-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/tutti-fruti-jollof-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/tutti-fruti-jollof-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gambian-style white jollof rice courtesy of San Jose’s Ralphina Seymoun and Mohamed Bereteh. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tutti Fruti Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Seymon’s San Jose–based catering business, Tutti Fruti Kitchen, didn’t win last year’s Jollof Festival. Gambia is such a tiny country, she explains, that it would be tough to beat out Nigeria in a popularity contest. “But we sold out first,” she says with evident pride. This year Seymoun and her husband will switch gears and compete on behalf of Bereteh’s native Sierra Leone. It’s a simpler style of red rice, Seymoun explains, with its main distinguishing feature that the meat and gravy are cooked separately and served on top instead of everything getting stir-fried together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the names of her rivals have yet to be released, she’s sure to be up against stiff competition — again, with contenders representing Ghana, Nigeria, Liberia and Senegal also gunning for the crown. Will Seymon’s second time be the charm, allowing Sierra Leone to hoist up the final trophy this year?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only way to find out, as the event organizers like to say, is to let the jollof wars begin.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://jolloffestival.com/\">\u003ci>Jollof Festival Oakland\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will take place on Saturday, July 13, 2–7 p.m., at 7th West (1255 7th St.) in West Oakland — though, as the event organizers’\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://events.eventnoire.com/e/jollof-festival-oak24/tickets\"> \u003ci>disclaimer\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> notes, “This is an African event, things may run on African time.” Tickets start at $10 — $45 if you want to participate (and vote) in the blind tasting of the competitors’ jollof entries.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In West African diasporic communities, jollof rice isn’t just a delicious dish. It’s the red-tinged subject of a thousand dinner table squabbles, Facebook group feuds and friendly trash-talk sessions. Who makes it best? Is it Gambia or Senegal, where \u003ca href=\"https://trtafrika.com/lifestyle/the-unending-spicy-debate-on-west-africas-jollof-rice-17657471\">jollof rice is believed to have originated\u003c/a>? Or is it Nigeria or Ghana or one the many other countries across West Africa that have embraced and added their own unique twists to the beloved staple dish?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That eternal debate is the basis of \u003ca href=\"https://jolloffestival.com/\">Jollof Festival\u003c/a>, a touring nationwide cultural celebration and nationality-based jollof rice competition that will stop in 12 different cities this year, including Oakland on July 13.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kemi Tijaniqudus, who runs the Nigerian food truck \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jollofkitchen/\">Jollof Kitchen\u003c/a>, won the Oakland edition both years she competed, 2021 and 2023. Her victories are a point of pride, not just for herself but for the Bay Area’s broader Nigerian community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As she puts it, “People have different opinions, but hey, we always win. You can choose whatever you like, but I know I will take the crown.” In fact, Tijaniqudus says part of the reason she has retired from the competition and won’t be competing this year is because it’s unfair: “I already know Nigerian jollof is going to win.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If those sound like fighting words, that’s all part of the fun — and the friendly but heated rivalry — of Jollof Festival, where delicious food meets a healthy dose of cultural and nationalistic pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Co-produced by Jollof Festival founder Ishmael Osekre and two local collaborators — Quiana Webster and Dj Leone, both active participants in Oakland’s Afrobeats and R&B scenes — the Oakland event will feature local chefs and caterers competing on behalf of Ghana, Nigeria, Liberia, Senegal and Sierra Leone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Here’s how it works: Anyone can pay a $10 general admission ticket to take part in the day’s festivities, which will include a range of West African food vendors; booths selling clothing, jewelry and art; and various cultural performances and family-friendly activities. But attendees who want a vote will have to buy a higher-tier ($45) ticket, which gives access to a blind tasting of jollof rice samples from each of the competitors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since it’s a blind tasting, a voter with roots in, say, Ghana technically wouldn’t be able to just automatically vote for the Ghanaian entry. The judging should be based on taste alone — though savvy jollof heads might still be able to sniff out their own mother country’s representative. For instance, Tijaniqudus explains that Nigerian jollof is famous for its telltale smokiness, so anyone familiar with that taste would have recognized her entry last year after taking one bite: “Oh shit, this is Nigerian jollof!” And Ralphina Seymoun, who represented Gambia at last year’s competition along with her husband Mohamed Bereteh, says she served a special white jollof — made with broken jasmine rice and no tomatoes — that you would only find in Gambia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960585\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960585\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/tutti-fruti-jollof.jpg\" alt=\"A takeout container of jollof rice and two plastic bags of juice.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/tutti-fruti-jollof.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/tutti-fruti-jollof-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/tutti-fruti-jollof-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/tutti-fruti-jollof-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/tutti-fruti-jollof-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/tutti-fruti-jollof-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gambian-style white jollof rice courtesy of San Jose’s Ralphina Seymoun and Mohamed Bereteh. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tutti Fruti Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Seymon’s San Jose–based catering business, Tutti Fruti Kitchen, didn’t win last year’s Jollof Festival. Gambia is such a tiny country, she explains, that it would be tough to beat out Nigeria in a popularity contest. “But we sold out first,” she says with evident pride. This year Seymoun and her husband will switch gears and compete on behalf of Bereteh’s native Sierra Leone. It’s a simpler style of red rice, Seymoun explains, with its main distinguishing feature that the meat and gravy are cooked separately and served on top instead of everything getting stir-fried together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the names of her rivals have yet to be released, she’s sure to be up against stiff competition — again, with contenders representing Ghana, Nigeria, Liberia and Senegal also gunning for the crown. Will Seymon’s second time be the charm, allowing Sierra Leone to hoist up the final trophy this year?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only way to find out, as the event organizers like to say, is to let the jollof wars begin.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://jolloffestival.com/\">\u003ci>Jollof Festival Oakland\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will take place on Saturday, July 13, 2–7 p.m., at 7th West (1255 7th St.) in West Oakland — though, as the event organizers’\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://events.eventnoire.com/e/jollof-festival-oak24/tickets\"> \u003ci>disclaimer\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> notes, “This is an African event, things may run on African time.” Tickets start at $10 — $45 if you want to participate (and vote) in the blind tasting of the competitors’ jollof entries.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "This Rare-Bottle Mezcal Collector Offers Unique Tastings in Oakland",
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"content": "\u003cp>Behind a Victorian house near High Street in East Oakland — in a residential neighborhood where adults and kids playfully linger outside after dark, and rubber tire marks etch the concrete like scriptures from a history of sideshows — the Bay Area’s most off-the-radar mezcal session awaits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s where \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/agavesanto/?locale=en-GB\">Hugo Gonzalez\u003c/a>, a self-described mezcal storyteller, invited me for a private crash course on the smoky Mexican spirit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our night began by picking up an order of tacos from nearby \u003ca href=\"https://www.visitoakland.com/listing/taquer%C3%ADa-el-paisa/2949/\">El Paisa\u003c/a>, which should be on every short list of the Bay Area’s most fire taquerias. We took our loot back to a nondescript garage, where Gonzalez proceeded to deliver the most elevated and quirkily passionate mezcal tasting I’ve ever had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With over 100 rare bottles of regionally diverse Mexican spirits in his personal stash to go along with a bookshelf of related texts, mezcal production maps, vintage mezcal paraphernalia and a “tasting wheel” — a large set of concentric circles with a dictionary’s worth of vocab to precisely pinpoint flavor profiles ranging from cinnamon to shrimp — Gonzalez is more than qualified to teach others about Mexico’s ancient relationship with the agave distillate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960405\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960405\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3860-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"a mezcal expert explains his favorite mezcal options to a journalist sitting at the same table\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3860-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3860-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3860-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3860-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3860-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3860-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3860-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3860-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gonzalez (right) teaches KQED journalist Alan Chazaro about the various nuances of mezcal. \u003ccite>(Darius Riley)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>His journey and approach are unorthodox. Having grown up in the Xochimilco neighborhood of Mexico City, Gonzalez was once a lawyer and a government employee before marrying a U.S. citizen and moving to Cambodia for environmental work. Eventually, his wife — a first-generation Hungarian American who was raised in the Bay Area — convinced him to move here in 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Upon arriving, he worked in construction for five years. Despite being good with his hands, the physical demands and constant overtime shifts led him to seek another, more inspiring career path based on his heritage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“In Mexico, we have something called ‘saboreada’ (tastings),” he says while pouring me a splash of micro-batch, Oaxacan mezcal. “I decided to start doing that here. I don’t want to go back to construction.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gonzalez didn’t bluff. For the past six years, he has plunged himself deep into the mezcal multiverse. The devoted connoisseur regularly visits Mexico’s palenques (old-world mezcal distilleries) and occasionally treks into the Mexican hillsides for days on end to accompany the maestros as they concoct tiny 40-liter batches from start to finish. He then returns to the Bay Area and disseminates what he’s learned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960402\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960402\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3800-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"a map of Mexico showing where agaves are from\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3800-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3800-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3800-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3800-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3800-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3800-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3800-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3800-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There are roughly 200 agave species in Mexico. Gonzalez identifies which regions produce the best kinds for distinct variations of mezcal. \u003ccite>(Darius Riley)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Gonzalez, who once preferred to drink pulque, a fermented beverage that is nearly impossible to find outside of Mexico, slowly became a fan of mezcal while living in California, where he gained a newfound appreciation for the distilled spirit’s Mexican tradition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Currently, Gonzalez works part-time as a mezcal consultant at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/odin.oakland/?hl=en\">Odin Mezcaleria\u003c/a>, a Mexican restaurant in Oakland’s Jack London Square that serves the best variations of mezcal cocktails I’ve encountered in the Bay. He’s also a member of \u003ca href=\"https://maestrosdelmezcal.com/\">Maestros del Mezcal\u003c/a>, a non-profit that supports the artisanal traditions of non-corporatized mezcal producers in Mexico, which he sometimes gives public talks about (including at a recent \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/event/4143\">KQED Live event\u003c/a>). He’s also is a brand ambassador for a handful of mezcals that have entered the U.S. market in recent years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13917398,arts_13920076,arts_13899700']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Like mezcal itself, Gonzalez is somewhat roguish — a Mexican immigrant who simply loves the beverage and genuinely wants to inform others about how, where and why it’s produced. He’s especially mindful of the maestros, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s important to talk about small productions of small [scale] mezcaleros,” he tells me. “[It’s] one of the most important things. Transparency.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During my visit, he makes a point to name every maestro when holding up each bottle. (Most small-batch productions show the region where the mezcal comes from, the genus of agave, any materials and processes used, and who made it by first and last name.) Throughout the night Gonzalez riffs like a freewheeling jazz musician, improvising with personal anecdotes and backstories about each mezcal and its maestro. It’s not just a flamboyant show of bravado; Gonzalez also drops bountiful knowledge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960399\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960399\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4161-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"four bottles of mezcal from Mexico displayed on a table\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4161-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4161-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4161-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4161-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4161-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4161-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4161-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4161-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gonzalez has a penchant for small-batch mezcal that can only be found in Mexico. \u003ccite>(Darius Riley)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One of the main points he drives home is simple: Each mezcal is extremely nuanced in process, craft and result, differing from maestro to maestro, pueblo to pueblo. Mezcal is extremely varied and comes from multiple sources (Mexico has over 300 agave species that vary across the changing climates of the country’s 32 states). Though largely associated with \u003ca href=\"https://atmos.earth/mezcal-oaxaca-environmental-impact/\">Oaxaca — which admittedly accounts for over 90% of mezcal production in the world and has grown in demand at an alarming rate\u003c/a> — mezcal is cultivated in ten disparate regions of Mexico. Oaxaca’s biodiversity certainly allows for an ideal proliferation of the agave-based drink, but as my time with Gonzalez progressed, he went deeper into his metaphorical bag to reveal some of the rarest mezcals I’ve ever tasted, spanning from areas in Guerrero, Chihuahua, Zacatecas and Tamaulipas. He effectively took me on a tour of Mexico with each quarter-shot of mezcal while connecting the dots on his agave map.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One shot of mezcal might yield a zing of gun metal. Another could evoke strawberries. The next? Maybe copper. One mezcal I tasted even had notes of salt and seafood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960397\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960397\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4264-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"a digitized photo of an indigenous Mexican man wearing a cowboy hat\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4264-scaled.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4264-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4264-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4264-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4264-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4264-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4264-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Throughout the year, Gonzalez visits Mexico to spend time with maestros and learn about mezcal from the source. \u003ccite>(Darius Riley)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In explaining each pour, Gonzalez is more of a professor than he is a bartender, more poet than salesman. As a former construction worker who knows what it means to use his hands as a means to make ends meet, he has a kindred gratitude for the type of corporeal rigor that mezcal-making demands of its maestros. This isn’t a big-corporate industry, after all; mezcal is still largely homegrown and handmade, demanding a kind of slow-burning discipline of bygone techniques that reflect the slow burn that follows each sip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coyote-, armadillo- and turkey-distilled mezcals (made with \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/drinks/2016/2/9/10939962/what-is-mezcal-de-pechuga\">a redistillation process\u003c/a> wherein the animal’s carcass is hung over the still)? He’s got that. Unlabeled stashes straight from the pit-fired earth? Yep, it’s a casual part of his rotation. But more than the sipping and smoke blowing, it’s about the context — the magical surrealism that is inherent in Mexico that Gonzalez so effortlessly summons on this side of the border. In the broadest sense, to learn about and better understand mezcal — its permutations, its origins, its peculiarities — is to learn about and better understand Mexico. (“Not all of it is smoky,” Gonzalez says of mezcal, but his aphorism can be applied to the negative perceptions surrounding Mexico as well.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To be clear, I’ve had my fair share of mezcal dalliances; I once found myself drinking mezcal with the governor of Michoacan at a family dinner on a bull ranch. I’ve also sipped it with my uncles and cousins in Veracruz, and enjoyed it at family parties in the States. But an evening with East Oakland’s underground mezcal king is unlike any bar stool I’ve sat on or any drinking tour I’ve attended. For some, \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/mezcal-with-yola-jimenez?_sp=f2f2c4d6-bf70-4f1a-9418-23351d1500d7.1718083917830\">mezcal is seen as a spiritual aid\u003c/a>, and it is with this kind of deep reverence that Gonzalez handles the holy beverage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960400\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960400\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4148-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"a mezcal expert points to a circular graph on a table to explain the flavor profiles of mezcal\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4148-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4148-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4148-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4148-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4148-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4148-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4148-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4148-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The tasting wheel allows Gonzalez, and his guests, to pinpoint the various textures and complexities of mezcal’s many flavors. \u003ccite>(Darius Riley)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mezcal in the Bay Area is usually associated with high-end cocktails, which tend to dilute the spirit. It’s rarely consumed in the same way bar-goers might ask for a shot of tequila or a glass of whiskey on the rocks. Though mezcal has entered the mainstream’s vocabulary in recent years, it remains far behind tequila and Corona in terms of its market size and popularity. Part of the reason is that mezcal simply requires a Herculean effort — along with a deep, intimate knowledge — to produce. It lacks the kind of celebrity investment, distribution and brand power of other, more popular Mexican alcoholic beverages. Mezcal is more esoteric, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/what-is-mezcal\">the Mexican government has sometimes even struggled with enforcing the “quasi-illegal shenanigans” surrounding it\u003c/a>. A\u003ca href=\"https://agaveroadtrip.com/episodes/s2e116-why-lou-says-agave-spirits-instead-of-mezcal\"> Mexican law enacted in 1994 “stole” the word mezcal\u003c/a> from artisanal makers and “laid claim” to it. An \u003cem>Eater\u003c/em> article, appropriately titled “\u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/22929882/mezcal-destilado-de-agave-distilling-indigenous-culture-oaxaca\">The Great Mezcal Heist\u003c/a>,” goes into depth on it all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Gonzalez, those misunderstandings are part of what attracts him to the beverage. Like the rest of us, he’s learning as he goes, and he aims to bring clarity and focus to those layers. Sitting inside a clandestine garage with a belly full of suadero and a few pours of rare mezcal, I’m happy to be along for the liquid ride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People ask me, ‘Are you a sommelier for mezcal, a mezcalier?’ No, I am not,” he says. “I am not an expert. Actually, every time I start to read more about it or try to study it too hard, I get more confused. So the only thing I can do is go to Mexico to explore, to make connections with the people and master distillers, to get the most direct knowledge I can. Then I share the best that I can with you. I am just a storyteller.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Hugo Gonzalez is available for private tastings and educational mezcal sessions. Contact him on Instagram (\u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/agavesanto/?locale=en-GB\">@agavesanto\u003c/a>) for more details.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Behind a Victorian house near High Street in East Oakland — in a residential neighborhood where adults and kids playfully linger outside after dark, and rubber tire marks etch the concrete like scriptures from a history of sideshows — the Bay Area’s most off-the-radar mezcal session awaits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s where \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/agavesanto/?locale=en-GB\">Hugo Gonzalez\u003c/a>, a self-described mezcal storyteller, invited me for a private crash course on the smoky Mexican spirit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our night began by picking up an order of tacos from nearby \u003ca href=\"https://www.visitoakland.com/listing/taquer%C3%ADa-el-paisa/2949/\">El Paisa\u003c/a>, which should be on every short list of the Bay Area’s most fire taquerias. We took our loot back to a nondescript garage, where Gonzalez proceeded to deliver the most elevated and quirkily passionate mezcal tasting I’ve ever had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With over 100 rare bottles of regionally diverse Mexican spirits in his personal stash to go along with a bookshelf of related texts, mezcal production maps, vintage mezcal paraphernalia and a “tasting wheel” — a large set of concentric circles with a dictionary’s worth of vocab to precisely pinpoint flavor profiles ranging from cinnamon to shrimp — Gonzalez is more than qualified to teach others about Mexico’s ancient relationship with the agave distillate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960405\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960405\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3860-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"a mezcal expert explains his favorite mezcal options to a journalist sitting at the same table\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3860-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3860-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3860-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3860-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3860-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3860-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3860-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3860-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gonzalez (right) teaches KQED journalist Alan Chazaro about the various nuances of mezcal. \u003ccite>(Darius Riley)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>His journey and approach are unorthodox. Having grown up in the Xochimilco neighborhood of Mexico City, Gonzalez was once a lawyer and a government employee before marrying a U.S. citizen and moving to Cambodia for environmental work. Eventually, his wife — a first-generation Hungarian American who was raised in the Bay Area — convinced him to move here in 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Upon arriving, he worked in construction for five years. Despite being good with his hands, the physical demands and constant overtime shifts led him to seek another, more inspiring career path based on his heritage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“In Mexico, we have something called ‘saboreada’ (tastings),” he says while pouring me a splash of micro-batch, Oaxacan mezcal. “I decided to start doing that here. I don’t want to go back to construction.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gonzalez didn’t bluff. For the past six years, he has plunged himself deep into the mezcal multiverse. The devoted connoisseur regularly visits Mexico’s palenques (old-world mezcal distilleries) and occasionally treks into the Mexican hillsides for days on end to accompany the maestros as they concoct tiny 40-liter batches from start to finish. He then returns to the Bay Area and disseminates what he’s learned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960402\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960402\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3800-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"a map of Mexico showing where agaves are from\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3800-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3800-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3800-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3800-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3800-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3800-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3800-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF3800-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There are roughly 200 agave species in Mexico. Gonzalez identifies which regions produce the best kinds for distinct variations of mezcal. \u003ccite>(Darius Riley)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Gonzalez, who once preferred to drink pulque, a fermented beverage that is nearly impossible to find outside of Mexico, slowly became a fan of mezcal while living in California, where he gained a newfound appreciation for the distilled spirit’s Mexican tradition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Currently, Gonzalez works part-time as a mezcal consultant at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/odin.oakland/?hl=en\">Odin Mezcaleria\u003c/a>, a Mexican restaurant in Oakland’s Jack London Square that serves the best variations of mezcal cocktails I’ve encountered in the Bay. He’s also a member of \u003ca href=\"https://maestrosdelmezcal.com/\">Maestros del Mezcal\u003c/a>, a non-profit that supports the artisanal traditions of non-corporatized mezcal producers in Mexico, which he sometimes gives public talks about (including at a recent \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/event/4143\">KQED Live event\u003c/a>). He’s also is a brand ambassador for a handful of mezcals that have entered the U.S. market in recent years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Like mezcal itself, Gonzalez is somewhat roguish — a Mexican immigrant who simply loves the beverage and genuinely wants to inform others about how, where and why it’s produced. He’s especially mindful of the maestros, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s important to talk about small productions of small [scale] mezcaleros,” he tells me. “[It’s] one of the most important things. Transparency.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During my visit, he makes a point to name every maestro when holding up each bottle. (Most small-batch productions show the region where the mezcal comes from, the genus of agave, any materials and processes used, and who made it by first and last name.) Throughout the night Gonzalez riffs like a freewheeling jazz musician, improvising with personal anecdotes and backstories about each mezcal and its maestro. It’s not just a flamboyant show of bravado; Gonzalez also drops bountiful knowledge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960399\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960399\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4161-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"four bottles of mezcal from Mexico displayed on a table\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4161-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4161-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4161-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4161-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4161-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4161-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4161-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4161-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gonzalez has a penchant for small-batch mezcal that can only be found in Mexico. \u003ccite>(Darius Riley)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One of the main points he drives home is simple: Each mezcal is extremely nuanced in process, craft and result, differing from maestro to maestro, pueblo to pueblo. Mezcal is extremely varied and comes from multiple sources (Mexico has over 300 agave species that vary across the changing climates of the country’s 32 states). Though largely associated with \u003ca href=\"https://atmos.earth/mezcal-oaxaca-environmental-impact/\">Oaxaca — which admittedly accounts for over 90% of mezcal production in the world and has grown in demand at an alarming rate\u003c/a> — mezcal is cultivated in ten disparate regions of Mexico. Oaxaca’s biodiversity certainly allows for an ideal proliferation of the agave-based drink, but as my time with Gonzalez progressed, he went deeper into his metaphorical bag to reveal some of the rarest mezcals I’ve ever tasted, spanning from areas in Guerrero, Chihuahua, Zacatecas and Tamaulipas. He effectively took me on a tour of Mexico with each quarter-shot of mezcal while connecting the dots on his agave map.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One shot of mezcal might yield a zing of gun metal. Another could evoke strawberries. The next? Maybe copper. One mezcal I tasted even had notes of salt and seafood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960397\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960397\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4264-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"a digitized photo of an indigenous Mexican man wearing a cowboy hat\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4264-scaled.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4264-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4264-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4264-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4264-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4264-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4264-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Throughout the year, Gonzalez visits Mexico to spend time with maestros and learn about mezcal from the source. \u003ccite>(Darius Riley)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In explaining each pour, Gonzalez is more of a professor than he is a bartender, more poet than salesman. As a former construction worker who knows what it means to use his hands as a means to make ends meet, he has a kindred gratitude for the type of corporeal rigor that mezcal-making demands of its maestros. This isn’t a big-corporate industry, after all; mezcal is still largely homegrown and handmade, demanding a kind of slow-burning discipline of bygone techniques that reflect the slow burn that follows each sip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coyote-, armadillo- and turkey-distilled mezcals (made with \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/drinks/2016/2/9/10939962/what-is-mezcal-de-pechuga\">a redistillation process\u003c/a> wherein the animal’s carcass is hung over the still)? He’s got that. Unlabeled stashes straight from the pit-fired earth? Yep, it’s a casual part of his rotation. But more than the sipping and smoke blowing, it’s about the context — the magical surrealism that is inherent in Mexico that Gonzalez so effortlessly summons on this side of the border. In the broadest sense, to learn about and better understand mezcal — its permutations, its origins, its peculiarities — is to learn about and better understand Mexico. (“Not all of it is smoky,” Gonzalez says of mezcal, but his aphorism can be applied to the negative perceptions surrounding Mexico as well.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To be clear, I’ve had my fair share of mezcal dalliances; I once found myself drinking mezcal with the governor of Michoacan at a family dinner on a bull ranch. I’ve also sipped it with my uncles and cousins in Veracruz, and enjoyed it at family parties in the States. But an evening with East Oakland’s underground mezcal king is unlike any bar stool I’ve sat on or any drinking tour I’ve attended. For some, \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/mezcal-with-yola-jimenez?_sp=f2f2c4d6-bf70-4f1a-9418-23351d1500d7.1718083917830\">mezcal is seen as a spiritual aid\u003c/a>, and it is with this kind of deep reverence that Gonzalez handles the holy beverage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960400\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960400\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4148-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"a mezcal expert points to a circular graph on a table to explain the flavor profiles of mezcal\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4148-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4148-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4148-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4148-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4148-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4148-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4148-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/DSCF4148-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The tasting wheel allows Gonzalez, and his guests, to pinpoint the various textures and complexities of mezcal’s many flavors. \u003ccite>(Darius Riley)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mezcal in the Bay Area is usually associated with high-end cocktails, which tend to dilute the spirit. It’s rarely consumed in the same way bar-goers might ask for a shot of tequila or a glass of whiskey on the rocks. Though mezcal has entered the mainstream’s vocabulary in recent years, it remains far behind tequila and Corona in terms of its market size and popularity. Part of the reason is that mezcal simply requires a Herculean effort — along with a deep, intimate knowledge — to produce. It lacks the kind of celebrity investment, distribution and brand power of other, more popular Mexican alcoholic beverages. Mezcal is more esoteric, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/what-is-mezcal\">the Mexican government has sometimes even struggled with enforcing the “quasi-illegal shenanigans” surrounding it\u003c/a>. A\u003ca href=\"https://agaveroadtrip.com/episodes/s2e116-why-lou-says-agave-spirits-instead-of-mezcal\"> Mexican law enacted in 1994 “stole” the word mezcal\u003c/a> from artisanal makers and “laid claim” to it. An \u003cem>Eater\u003c/em> article, appropriately titled “\u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/22929882/mezcal-destilado-de-agave-distilling-indigenous-culture-oaxaca\">The Great Mezcal Heist\u003c/a>,” goes into depth on it all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Gonzalez, those misunderstandings are part of what attracts him to the beverage. Like the rest of us, he’s learning as he goes, and he aims to bring clarity and focus to those layers. Sitting inside a clandestine garage with a belly full of suadero and a few pours of rare mezcal, I’m happy to be along for the liquid ride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People ask me, ‘Are you a sommelier for mezcal, a mezcalier?’ No, I am not,” he says. “I am not an expert. Actually, every time I start to read more about it or try to study it too hard, I get more confused. So the only thing I can do is go to Mexico to explore, to make connections with the people and master distillers, to get the most direct knowledge I can. Then I share the best that I can with you. I am just a storyteller.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Hugo Gonzalez is available for private tastings and educational mezcal sessions. Contact him on Instagram (\u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/agavesanto/?locale=en-GB\">@agavesanto\u003c/a>) for more details.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "late-night-boba-san-jose-sweet-gelato-tea-lounge",
"title": "San Jose’s Late-Night Boba Shop Is a One-of-a-Kind Experience",
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"headTitle": "San Jose’s Late-Night Boba Shop Is a One-of-a-Kind Experience | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960436\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960436\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEET-GELATO-1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: A gray-haired man proudly holds up two boba drinks while two customers scarf down a bowl of tiramisu.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEET-GELATO-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEET-GELATO-1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEET-GELATO-1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEET-GELATO-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEET-GELATO-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEET-GELATO-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">San Jose’s Sweet Gelato Tea Lounge one of the Bay Area’s priciest — and most unique — boba shops. The owner, Tony, runs the place by sheer force of his personality.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before my first visit to San Jose’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sweetgelatotealounge/\">Sweet Gelato Tea Lounge\u003c/a>, I had never gone out for boba past 11 o’clock — never even knew that was an option, really, when even boba shops in Taipei mostly call it a night by 8 p.m.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when I walked into this little storefront in the Vietnam Town shopping complex on a recent Friday night, I had to take a minute to let it all soak in. The vibey lights bathing the shop in a dim neon purple. The groups of Asian Zoomers and younger Millennials lounging in leather booths. The pastel-hued digital menu board with its vaguely (and not-so-vaguely) inappropriate drink names: the Pop Her Cherry, the PMS (Please Make Sweet), the Don’t Be a Hater and, unbelievably, the Lil Pee Pee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The shop is open until 2 a.m. every night, and yes, I do believe that was a red Porsche parked right out front.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When all was said and done, we’d paid $50 (!) for a dessert and two drinks, including one called the “Boba Virgin.” Was it worth it? Your mileage may vary, but at the end of a very, very long night, we couldn’t stop laughing at the ballsiness of the place, and how we’d just taken part in a truly only-in-San-Jose experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, few people embody the Vietnam Town mall’s boot-strappy, go-big-or-go-home ethic better than Sweet Gelato’s owner, who introduces himself as Tony. A trim, energetic older Vietnamese man with salt-and-pepper hair, Tony runs the shop by sheer force of his personality. As soon as we walk in, he pulls us over, gesturing toward the menu, and says, “Forget about this. It doesn’t matter. If you don’t like your drink, you don’t pay. Simple as that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Never mind that we’re already willing customers standing in line to order drinks. Tony holds up his phone to show us an article listing Sweet Gelato Tea Lounge as one of the top boba shops in San Jose. He pulls up the shop’s Yelp page. “Look at how many reviews,” he says. (There are \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/sweet-gelato-tea-lounge-san-jose\">more than 2,000\u003c/a>, for what it’s worth.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960437\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960437\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEEY-GELATO-2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: The brightly lit exterior of a boba shop called Sweet Gelato.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEEY-GELATO-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEEY-GELATO-2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEEY-GELATO-2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEEY-GELATO-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEEY-GELATO-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEEY-GELATO-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The shop is open until 2 a.m. every night. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What Tony likes to do, it seems, is to play boba sommelier, insisting that we not waste our time perusing the menu and instead just let him pick out something we’ll like based on our preferences. Do we like smoothies? Milk teas? Something fruity? How do we feel about strawberries? What about dragon fruit?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For someone like me, who’s prone to analyzing a menu for upwards of 10 minutes to engineer the ideal order, giving up control in this way feels more than a little bit stressful. But Tony seems so fired up about the dragon fruit that I warm up to the idea. And that’s how I wind up ordering the Boba Virgin, a vaguely tropical concoction of dragon fruit, pomegranate, basil seeds and both popping boba and the regular tapioca-based variety.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tony decides to narrate my first sip. “Look at his face,” he says with palpable excitement. “Look at his face!” The drink is a bit sweet for my taste and doesn’t have any \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13957666/best-boba-shops-bay-area-berkeley-cupertino-sf\">discernible tea flavor\u003c/a>, but I feel too bad about letting Tony down to do anything but nod enthusiastically.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also order a durian smoothie with boba, which costs $18 all by itself, and I’ve never seen anyone make a smoothie with as much vigor as Tony, putting his whole back and shoulders into it as he stirs with a spatula.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13959808,arts_13958466,arts_13957666']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>My biggest piece of advice? Don’t come to Sweet Gelato unprepared, or you’ll be steamrolled by the force of Tony’s charisma and salesmanship. This man could sell me any car in the used car lot. If he sold vacation packages, I’d wind up letting him send me anywhere in the world, via a mode of transportation of his own choosing. We asked one tentative question about the shop’s gelato and other dessert offerings, and before we knew what was happening, he’d taken out two spoons, offered us a taste of tiramisu, and closed the sale.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Were the drinks amazing enough to merit the highest prices I’ve ever encountered in a boba shop? I suppose that’s in the eye of the beholder. The durian smoothie was delicious, rich and super-buttery, and loaded with the fruit’s characteristically bold, pungent flavor. Like Tony promised, it was made with 100% \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925835/durian-bay-area-love-letter-singaporean-culture\">real durian\u003c/a>, and it showed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Really, though, I think the reason the shop has garnered such a cult following (and \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/sweet-gelato-tea-lounge-san-jose\">near-perfect Yelp rating\u003c/a>) has more to do with the shop’s odd quirks and Tony’s unique style of hospitality. A piece of paper taped to the display case previews not new drinks but simply new drink \u003ci>names \u003c/i>that he’s planning to release in the future. (A sample: LIFE (Living It Fiercely Everyday)”) And, in its own way, the entire process of ordering a drink and watching Tony make it (and then watching him watch you drink it!) is a kind of show in and of itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I haven’t encountered anything else like it in 30-plus years of boba drinking.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sweetgelatotealounge/\">\u003ci>Sweet Gelato Tea Lounge\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 5 p.m.–2 a.m. daily at 972 Green St. Unit 7084 in San Jose. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960436\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960436\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEET-GELATO-1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: A gray-haired man proudly holds up two boba drinks while two customers scarf down a bowl of tiramisu.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEET-GELATO-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEET-GELATO-1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEET-GELATO-1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEET-GELATO-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEET-GELATO-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEET-GELATO-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">San Jose’s Sweet Gelato Tea Lounge one of the Bay Area’s priciest — and most unique — boba shops. The owner, Tony, runs the place by sheer force of his personality.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before my first visit to San Jose’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sweetgelatotealounge/\">Sweet Gelato Tea Lounge\u003c/a>, I had never gone out for boba past 11 o’clock — never even knew that was an option, really, when even boba shops in Taipei mostly call it a night by 8 p.m.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when I walked into this little storefront in the Vietnam Town shopping complex on a recent Friday night, I had to take a minute to let it all soak in. The vibey lights bathing the shop in a dim neon purple. The groups of Asian Zoomers and younger Millennials lounging in leather booths. The pastel-hued digital menu board with its vaguely (and not-so-vaguely) inappropriate drink names: the Pop Her Cherry, the PMS (Please Make Sweet), the Don’t Be a Hater and, unbelievably, the Lil Pee Pee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The shop is open until 2 a.m. every night, and yes, I do believe that was a red Porsche parked right out front.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When all was said and done, we’d paid $50 (!) for a dessert and two drinks, including one called the “Boba Virgin.” Was it worth it? Your mileage may vary, but at the end of a very, very long night, we couldn’t stop laughing at the ballsiness of the place, and how we’d just taken part in a truly only-in-San-Jose experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, few people embody the Vietnam Town mall’s boot-strappy, go-big-or-go-home ethic better than Sweet Gelato’s owner, who introduces himself as Tony. A trim, energetic older Vietnamese man with salt-and-pepper hair, Tony runs the shop by sheer force of his personality. As soon as we walk in, he pulls us over, gesturing toward the menu, and says, “Forget about this. It doesn’t matter. If you don’t like your drink, you don’t pay. Simple as that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Never mind that we’re already willing customers standing in line to order drinks. Tony holds up his phone to show us an article listing Sweet Gelato Tea Lounge as one of the top boba shops in San Jose. He pulls up the shop’s Yelp page. “Look at how many reviews,” he says. (There are \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/sweet-gelato-tea-lounge-san-jose\">more than 2,000\u003c/a>, for what it’s worth.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960437\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960437\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEEY-GELATO-2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: The brightly lit exterior of a boba shop called Sweet Gelato.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEEY-GELATO-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEEY-GELATO-2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEEY-GELATO-2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEEY-GELATO-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEEY-GELATO-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/SWEEY-GELATO-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The shop is open until 2 a.m. every night. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What Tony likes to do, it seems, is to play boba sommelier, insisting that we not waste our time perusing the menu and instead just let him pick out something we’ll like based on our preferences. Do we like smoothies? Milk teas? Something fruity? How do we feel about strawberries? What about dragon fruit?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For someone like me, who’s prone to analyzing a menu for upwards of 10 minutes to engineer the ideal order, giving up control in this way feels more than a little bit stressful. But Tony seems so fired up about the dragon fruit that I warm up to the idea. And that’s how I wind up ordering the Boba Virgin, a vaguely tropical concoction of dragon fruit, pomegranate, basil seeds and both popping boba and the regular tapioca-based variety.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tony decides to narrate my first sip. “Look at his face,” he says with palpable excitement. “Look at his face!” The drink is a bit sweet for my taste and doesn’t have any \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13957666/best-boba-shops-bay-area-berkeley-cupertino-sf\">discernible tea flavor\u003c/a>, but I feel too bad about letting Tony down to do anything but nod enthusiastically.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also order a durian smoothie with boba, which costs $18 all by itself, and I’ve never seen anyone make a smoothie with as much vigor as Tony, putting his whole back and shoulders into it as he stirs with a spatula.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>My biggest piece of advice? Don’t come to Sweet Gelato unprepared, or you’ll be steamrolled by the force of Tony’s charisma and salesmanship. This man could sell me any car in the used car lot. If he sold vacation packages, I’d wind up letting him send me anywhere in the world, via a mode of transportation of his own choosing. We asked one tentative question about the shop’s gelato and other dessert offerings, and before we knew what was happening, he’d taken out two spoons, offered us a taste of tiramisu, and closed the sale.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Were the drinks amazing enough to merit the highest prices I’ve ever encountered in a boba shop? I suppose that’s in the eye of the beholder. The durian smoothie was delicious, rich and super-buttery, and loaded with the fruit’s characteristically bold, pungent flavor. Like Tony promised, it was made with 100% \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925835/durian-bay-area-love-letter-singaporean-culture\">real durian\u003c/a>, and it showed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Really, though, I think the reason the shop has garnered such a cult following (and \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/sweet-gelato-tea-lounge-san-jose\">near-perfect Yelp rating\u003c/a>) has more to do with the shop’s odd quirks and Tony’s unique style of hospitality. A piece of paper taped to the display case previews not new drinks but simply new drink \u003ci>names \u003c/i>that he’s planning to release in the future. (A sample: LIFE (Living It Fiercely Everyday)”) And, in its own way, the entire process of ordering a drink and watching Tony make it (and then watching him watch you drink it!) is a kind of show in and of itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I haven’t encountered anything else like it in 30-plus years of boba drinking.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sweetgelatotealounge/\">\u003ci>Sweet Gelato Tea Lounge\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 5 p.m.–2 a.m. daily at 972 Green St. Unit 7084 in San Jose. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"airtime": "FRI 4:30pm-5pm, 6:30pm-7pm, 11pm-11:30pm",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareportmagazine",
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"order": 10
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM3NjkwNjk1OTAz",
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},
"city-arts": {
"id": "city-arts",
"title": "City Arts & Lectures",
"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/05/cityartsandlecture-300x300.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.cityarts.net/",
"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
"subscribe": {
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/City-Arts-and-Lectures-p692/",
"rss": "https://www.cityarts.net/feed/"
}
},
"closealltabs": {
"id": "closealltabs",
"title": "Close All Tabs",
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"info": "Close All Tabs breaks down how digital culture shapes our world through thoughtful insights and irreverent humor.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/closealltabs",
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"order": 1
},
"link": "/podcasts/closealltabs",
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"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"meta": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"meta": {
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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}
},
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"id": "forum",
"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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"id": "freakonomics-radio",
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"info": "Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. It is produced in partnership with WNYC.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
"airtime": "SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
"subscribe": {
"npr": "https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/4s8b",
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
"rss": "https://feeds.feedburner.com/freakonomicsradio"
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},
"fresh-air": {
"id": "fresh-air",
"title": "Fresh Air",
"info": "Hosted by Terry Gross, \u003cem>Fresh Air from WHYY\u003c/em> is the Peabody Award-winning weekday magazine of contemporary arts and issues. One of public radio's most popular programs, Fresh Air features intimate conversations with today's biggest luminaries.",
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"link": "/radio/program/fresh-air",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/381444908/podcast.xml"
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510051/podcast.xml"
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},
"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
"title": "Hidden Brain",
"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/series/423302056/hidden-brain",
"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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},
"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/howIBuiltThis.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this",
"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
"subscribe": {
"npr": "https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/3zxy",
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510313/podcast.xml"
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},
"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"order": 15
},
"link": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/2p3Fifq96nw9BPcmFdIq0o?si=39209f7b25774f38",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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}
},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
"meta": {
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},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
}
},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
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"apple": "http://mastersofscale.app.link/",
"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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"stitcher": "https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
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"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "On Our Watch from NPR and KQED",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "kqed",
"order": 11
},
"link": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1567098962",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510360/podcast.xml"
}
},
"on-the-media": {
"id": "on-the-media",
"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm-3pm, MON 12am-1am",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/onTheMedia.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.wnycstudios.org/shows/otm",
"meta": {
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"source": "wnyc"
},
"link": "/radio/program/on-the-media",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/on-the-media/id73330715?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/On-the-Media-p69/",
"rss": "http://feeds.wnyc.org/onthemedia"
}
},
"pbs-newshour": {
"id": "pbs-newshour",
"title": "PBS NewsHour",
"info": "Analysis, background reports and updates from the PBS NewsHour putting today's news in context.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "pbs"
},
"link": "/radio/program/pbs-newshour",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/pbs-newshour-full-show/id394432287?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/",
"rss": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/feeds/rss/podcasts/show"
}
},
"perspectives": {
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