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"content": "\u003cp>At first glance, the newest trendy-looking store in Richmond’s Pacific East Mall seems like it might be a sleek, high-end boba shop or purveyor of fancy Asian pastries. It’s got bright, colorful signage and an Instagram-friendly selfie spot: a pale-green sofa with \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925835/durian-bay-area-love-letter-singaporean-culture\">durian\u003c/a>-shaped throw pillows, positioned next to a lush faux-durian tree, underneath which sits a teddy bear assembled out of spiky balls that look exactly like freshly picked durians.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the giant, larger-than-life plastic mascot sitting just inside the entrance with a crown on top of his head? Definitely some kind of Boy Durian King, his whole body encased in the spiky shell of Southeast Asia’s King of Fruits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In case it isn’t already clear: JQ&B Liu Shang Pin is an entire store specializing in durian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, the only products it sells are whole Malaysian durians, available in about 10 different varieties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966668\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966668\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display.jpg\" alt=\"Freezer cases filled with dozens of gold foil wrapped durians.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The shop sells about 10 different varieties of Malaysian durian, all picked ripe and flash-frozen. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Open since Oct. 4, Liu Shang Pin is the swankiest durian shop I’ve ever seen. It’s also the only one of its kind in the Bay Area that I’m aware of — selling durian but no other kinds of tropical fruit, and not even any durian drinks or desserts. Instead, the shop’s entire inventory is visible in four carefully ventilated and temperature-controlled freezer cases, where customers can find dozens of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925835/durian-bay-area-love-letter-singaporean-culture\">famously pungent fruits\u003c/a>, each specimen wrapped in shiny gold foil, looking every bit like the luxury food items they are.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It should come as no surprise, then, that the durians at Liu Shang Pin aren’t cheap. Prices range from $16.99 a pound at the low end to a whopping $23.99 a pound for the \u003ca href=\"https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=4cec7896052ae80c03ef5f6118c58c0f&topic=4076.0\">super-trendy Black Thorn variety\u003c/a>, with each spiky-shelled fruit weighing in at four to five pounds. (The Musang King, probably Malaysia’s most famous and popular durian variety, rings up at $17.99 a pound.) In some cases, that means you’re paying more than $100 for a single durian — an expense too hard to swallow even for this durian lover (who, unfortunately, lives in a household of non-durian-eaters). Meanwhile, on the same day as my visit, the 99 Ranch supermarket just down the hall was selling Thai durians for only $11.99 a pound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13925835,arts_13953078,forum_2010101893028']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Of course, 99 Ranch doesn’t sell whole Black Thorns or Musang Kings, to say nothing of the other more obscure varietals sold at Liu Shang Pin. And many supermarkets in the U.S. only sell durians that have been \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2024/06/16/business/durian-china-malaysia-thailand.html\">picked long before they’re ripe\u003c/a>, mainly because the fruit’s shelf life is so short. In those cases, the durian will never fully achieve the rich pungency, sweetness and custardy texture that it’s known for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The owners of Liu Shang Pin, on the other hand, say they’re selling mature durians that are picked and \u003ca href=\"https://www.myfoodresearch.com/uploads/8/4/8/5/84855864/_44__fr-2021-428_razali.pdf\">flash-frozen\u003c/a> when they’re fully ripe. Once you bring the durian home, you just need to let it sit at room temperature for about five hours before cracking it open.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Could durian emerge as the Bay Area’s hottest new luxury food? While the fruit has always been held in the highest esteem by our region’s Southeast Asian communities, conventional wisdom has generally held that it’s just \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2007/05/12/10016534/ooh-that-smell-designing-a-stinkless-durian\">too “stinky”\u003c/a> to attain mainstream popularity in the U.S. What Liu Shang Pin seems to be going for, though, is the connoisseurs’ market — folks for whom a $100 durian might seem like a bargain if it saves you from having to buy a plane ticket to Malaysia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966669\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966669\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king.jpg\" alt='A giant, plastic \"durian king\" mascot with a spiky shell and a crown on his head.' width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The shop’s “durian king” mascot. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>JQ&B Liu Shang Pi is open daily inside the Pacific East Mall (3288 Pierce St.) in Richmond.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>At first glance, the newest trendy-looking store in Richmond’s Pacific East Mall seems like it might be a sleek, high-end boba shop or purveyor of fancy Asian pastries. It’s got bright, colorful signage and an Instagram-friendly selfie spot: a pale-green sofa with \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925835/durian-bay-area-love-letter-singaporean-culture\">durian\u003c/a>-shaped throw pillows, positioned next to a lush faux-durian tree, underneath which sits a teddy bear assembled out of spiky balls that look exactly like freshly picked durians.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the giant, larger-than-life plastic mascot sitting just inside the entrance with a crown on top of his head? Definitely some kind of Boy Durian King, his whole body encased in the spiky shell of Southeast Asia’s King of Fruits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In case it isn’t already clear: JQ&B Liu Shang Pin is an entire store specializing in durian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, the only products it sells are whole Malaysian durians, available in about 10 different varieties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966668\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966668\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display.jpg\" alt=\"Freezer cases filled with dozens of gold foil wrapped durians.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The shop sells about 10 different varieties of Malaysian durian, all picked ripe and flash-frozen. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Open since Oct. 4, Liu Shang Pin is the swankiest durian shop I’ve ever seen. It’s also the only one of its kind in the Bay Area that I’m aware of — selling durian but no other kinds of tropical fruit, and not even any durian drinks or desserts. Instead, the shop’s entire inventory is visible in four carefully ventilated and temperature-controlled freezer cases, where customers can find dozens of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925835/durian-bay-area-love-letter-singaporean-culture\">famously pungent fruits\u003c/a>, each specimen wrapped in shiny gold foil, looking every bit like the luxury food items they are.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It should come as no surprise, then, that the durians at Liu Shang Pin aren’t cheap. Prices range from $16.99 a pound at the low end to a whopping $23.99 a pound for the \u003ca href=\"https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=4cec7896052ae80c03ef5f6118c58c0f&topic=4076.0\">super-trendy Black Thorn variety\u003c/a>, with each spiky-shelled fruit weighing in at four to five pounds. (The Musang King, probably Malaysia’s most famous and popular durian variety, rings up at $17.99 a pound.) In some cases, that means you’re paying more than $100 for a single durian — an expense too hard to swallow even for this durian lover (who, unfortunately, lives in a household of non-durian-eaters). Meanwhile, on the same day as my visit, the 99 Ranch supermarket just down the hall was selling Thai durians for only $11.99 a pound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Of course, 99 Ranch doesn’t sell whole Black Thorns or Musang Kings, to say nothing of the other more obscure varietals sold at Liu Shang Pin. And many supermarkets in the U.S. only sell durians that have been \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2024/06/16/business/durian-china-malaysia-thailand.html\">picked long before they’re ripe\u003c/a>, mainly because the fruit’s shelf life is so short. In those cases, the durian will never fully achieve the rich pungency, sweetness and custardy texture that it’s known for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The owners of Liu Shang Pin, on the other hand, say they’re selling mature durians that are picked and \u003ca href=\"https://www.myfoodresearch.com/uploads/8/4/8/5/84855864/_44__fr-2021-428_razali.pdf\">flash-frozen\u003c/a> when they’re fully ripe. Once you bring the durian home, you just need to let it sit at room temperature for about five hours before cracking it open.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Could durian emerge as the Bay Area’s hottest new luxury food? While the fruit has always been held in the highest esteem by our region’s Southeast Asian communities, conventional wisdom has generally held that it’s just \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2007/05/12/10016534/ooh-that-smell-designing-a-stinkless-durian\">too “stinky”\u003c/a> to attain mainstream popularity in the U.S. What Liu Shang Pin seems to be going for, though, is the connoisseurs’ market — folks for whom a $100 durian might seem like a bargain if it saves you from having to buy a plane ticket to Malaysia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966669\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966669\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king.jpg\" alt='A giant, plastic \"durian king\" mascot with a spiky shell and a crown on his head.' width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The shop’s “durian king” mascot. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>JQ&B Liu Shang Pi is open daily inside the Pacific East Mall (3288 Pierce St.) in Richmond.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>A Minnesota horticulture teacher remained the reigning champion Monday of an annual pumpkin-weighing contest in Northern California where his massive gourds have won the top prize four years in a row.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Travis Gienger, of Anoka, Minnesota, beat his closest competitor by 6 pounds (2.7 kilograms) to clinch the victory at the 51st World Championship Pumpkin Weigh-Off in Half Moon Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13904911']His winning gourd came in at 2,471 pounds (1,121 kilograms), falling short of the world record he set last year with a pumpkin weighing 2,749 pounds (1,247 kilograms).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gienger, 44, said that as he has done in the past, he focused on having healthy soil and well-fed plants but that a cold fall with record-breaking rain likely impacted his pumpkin’s growth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We had really, really tough weather and somehow, some way, I kept on working,” Gienger said. “I had to work for this one, and we got it done at the end, but it wasn’t by much.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gienger and his family drove his gargantuan gourd for 35 hours to California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He said the giant pumpkin’s next stop will be in Southern California, where a team of professional carvers will do a 3D carve on it at a Halloween event.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "Asian American Chefs Talk MSG (Making, Sharing, Gathering) in SF Chinatown",
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"content": "\u003cp>You don’t have to go far back to remember when MSG was the most vilified ingredient in America. At the peak of this hysteria, in the ’80s and ’90s, the flavor enhancer was frequently \u003ca href=\"https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/its-the-umami-stupid-why-the-truth-about-msg-is-so-easy-to-swallow-180947626/\">maligned\u003c/a> as a grotesque transmitter of heart palpitations, migraine headaches and assorted other maladies — though, curiously, only when consumed in Chinese takeout and not, say, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/give-msg-a-chance\">bag of Doritos\u003c/a>. These days, of course, these sentiments have largely been debunked as \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2023/09/12/1197874002/umami-savory-taste-history\">bad science\u003c/a> (undergirded by a healthy dose of \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnn.com/2020/01/18/asia/chinese-restaurant-syndrome-msg-intl-hnk-scli/index.html\">racism\u003c/a>), and a new generation of young Asian American chefs have proudly taken up the MSG banner. (One \u003ca href=\"https://www.foodandwine.com/cook-with-msg-8421862\">trendy Cantonese American restaurant\u003c/a> in Brooklyn incorporates it into almost every dish.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s with a knowing and pointed wink, then, that \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/\">Edge on the Square\u003c/a>, a contemporary art hub in San Francisco Chinatown, named its new series of food workshops “MSG\u003ci>” \u003c/i>— only in this case, the letters stand for “making,” “sharing” and “gathering\u003ci>.\u003c/i>” And while monosodium glutamate itself won’t be a primary subject of discussion, those kinds of broader cultural narratives around Asian Americans and food very much \u003ci>are\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In other words, says Edge on the Square head curator Candace Huey, “If food is your primary point of contact about this culture, what types of myths and stereotypes can we dispel?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toward that end, \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/msg\">\u003ci>MSG: Making, Sharing, Gathering\u003c/i>\u003c/a> will feature six talented Asian American chefs, cookbook authors and pop-up entrepreneurs from around San Francisco and the East Bay, each of whom have their own particular relationships to food nostalgia, the Asian diaspora and, in some cases, San Francisco Chinatown itself. Joyce Tang, the Chinese American pastry chef behind Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bakesumpastries/?hl=en\">Bake Sum\u003c/a>, will kick off the series on \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/joyce-tang\">Saturday, Oct. 19\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966499\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966499\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1.jpg\" alt=\"A box of assorted pastries with Asian American flavors.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1984\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-800x794.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-1020x1012.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-160x159.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-768x762.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-1536x1524.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-1920x1905.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A box of assorted pastries from Bake Sum in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Joyce Tang)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Future editions will star Tracy Goh of the Malaysian restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13953078/curry-puff-malaysian-damansara-sf-noe-valley\">Damansara\u003c/a> (Dec. 8), chef Babo Waheed of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/babosconceptkitchen/\">Babo’s Kitchen\u003c/a> (Jan. 18), James Beard Award–winning cookbook author \u003ca href=\"https://eatchofood.com/\">Kristina Cho\u003c/a> (Feb. 8), \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/batikandbaker/?hl=en\">Batik and Baker’s\u003c/a> Audrey Tang (April 12) and Taiwanese dumpling specialist Henry Hsu of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eatoramasama/?hl=en\">Oramasama Dumplings\u003c/a> (May 18).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The workshops are meant to provide a critical lens on how food acts as an “identity marker” and how it helps shape the narrative of Asian America, Huey explains. “We’re thinking about questions related to immigrants and the different threads of colonization, as well as when you move through the pathway of diaspora, how that changes the rituals and the practices related to food preparation.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13962284,arts_13953078,arts_13924997']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>“Edge’s mission is always about how we can shift the narrative and how art” — and, in this case, food — “can be a vehicle for this widening of the aperture,” Huey says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each session will be different, but at the most basic level, there will always be a personal storytelling component and a Q&A. Each chef will share samples of their food (either cooked while guests watch or prepared ahead of time) that connect in some way to the story of their immigrant experience or their cultural heritage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the inaugural workshop, Bake Sum’s Tang will pass out a small box of pastries to help elucidate her theme of “Past, Present and Future.” Attendees will receive a green onion croissant that evokes Tang’s childhood memories of eating green onion pancakes in Chinatown, an okonomiyaki Danish that speaks to the present day and her interpretation of a mooncake, which points toward the future of Asian American diasporic cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Guests will sit at long banquet tables inside the gallery, in the heart of Chinatown, surrounded by the artwork in Edge on the Square’s current exhibition, \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/walking-stories\">\u003ci>Walking Stories\u003c/i>\u003c/a> — which, fittingly, is also centered on stories and storytellers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963121\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963121\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000.jpg\" alt=\"image of crowd holding banners under Chinatown lanterns and an image of a projection on a building front\" width=\"2000\" height=\"864\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-800x346.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-1020x441.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-160x69.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-768x332.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-1536x664.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-1920x829.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Scene from ‘Under the Same Sun,’ a previous event hosted by Edge on the Square. \u003ccite>(Henrik Kam)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tickets for the workshops are pay-what-you-can, with a suggested donation of $20 — though Linda Lui, the art hub’s communications director, stresses that they don’t want the cost to deter anyone from coming. Past Edge on the Square events, like a mahjong night and a concept barter shop, have drawn college students, prominent Asian American intellectuals and activists, and the local “popo” who walks past the Chinatown gallery every night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the \u003ci>MSG \u003c/i>series itself will run through May, that won’t be the end of the project. Edge on the Square is also collaborating with the \u003ca href=\"https://www.goodmedicinefilms.com/forever-chinatown\">Emmy-nominated\u003c/a> San Francisco director James Q. Chan, who will be on hand to film the workshops, with plans to turn them into a six-part documentary series.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/msg\">MSG: Making, Sharing, Gathering\u003c/a>\u003ci> workshops will be held approximately once a month, through May 2025, at Edge on the Square (800 Grant Ave., San Francisco). Tickets for each session will be released online 30 days in advance. The first workshop, featuring Joyce Tang of Bake Sum, will be on Saturday, Oct. 19, 4–5 p.m. Tickets are pay-what-you-can, but must be \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/joyce-tang\">\u003ci>reserved ahead of time\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, as seating is extremely limited.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>You don’t have to go far back to remember when MSG was the most vilified ingredient in America. At the peak of this hysteria, in the ’80s and ’90s, the flavor enhancer was frequently \u003ca href=\"https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/its-the-umami-stupid-why-the-truth-about-msg-is-so-easy-to-swallow-180947626/\">maligned\u003c/a> as a grotesque transmitter of heart palpitations, migraine headaches and assorted other maladies — though, curiously, only when consumed in Chinese takeout and not, say, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/give-msg-a-chance\">bag of Doritos\u003c/a>. These days, of course, these sentiments have largely been debunked as \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2023/09/12/1197874002/umami-savory-taste-history\">bad science\u003c/a> (undergirded by a healthy dose of \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnn.com/2020/01/18/asia/chinese-restaurant-syndrome-msg-intl-hnk-scli/index.html\">racism\u003c/a>), and a new generation of young Asian American chefs have proudly taken up the MSG banner. (One \u003ca href=\"https://www.foodandwine.com/cook-with-msg-8421862\">trendy Cantonese American restaurant\u003c/a> in Brooklyn incorporates it into almost every dish.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s with a knowing and pointed wink, then, that \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/\">Edge on the Square\u003c/a>, a contemporary art hub in San Francisco Chinatown, named its new series of food workshops “MSG\u003ci>” \u003c/i>— only in this case, the letters stand for “making,” “sharing” and “gathering\u003ci>.\u003c/i>” And while monosodium glutamate itself won’t be a primary subject of discussion, those kinds of broader cultural narratives around Asian Americans and food very much \u003ci>are\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In other words, says Edge on the Square head curator Candace Huey, “If food is your primary point of contact about this culture, what types of myths and stereotypes can we dispel?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toward that end, \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/msg\">\u003ci>MSG: Making, Sharing, Gathering\u003c/i>\u003c/a> will feature six talented Asian American chefs, cookbook authors and pop-up entrepreneurs from around San Francisco and the East Bay, each of whom have their own particular relationships to food nostalgia, the Asian diaspora and, in some cases, San Francisco Chinatown itself. Joyce Tang, the Chinese American pastry chef behind Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bakesumpastries/?hl=en\">Bake Sum\u003c/a>, will kick off the series on \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/joyce-tang\">Saturday, Oct. 19\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966499\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966499\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1.jpg\" alt=\"A box of assorted pastries with Asian American flavors.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1984\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-800x794.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-1020x1012.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-160x159.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-768x762.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-1536x1524.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-1920x1905.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A box of assorted pastries from Bake Sum in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Joyce Tang)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Future editions will star Tracy Goh of the Malaysian restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13953078/curry-puff-malaysian-damansara-sf-noe-valley\">Damansara\u003c/a> (Dec. 8), chef Babo Waheed of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/babosconceptkitchen/\">Babo’s Kitchen\u003c/a> (Jan. 18), James Beard Award–winning cookbook author \u003ca href=\"https://eatchofood.com/\">Kristina Cho\u003c/a> (Feb. 8), \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/batikandbaker/?hl=en\">Batik and Baker’s\u003c/a> Audrey Tang (April 12) and Taiwanese dumpling specialist Henry Hsu of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eatoramasama/?hl=en\">Oramasama Dumplings\u003c/a> (May 18).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>“Edge’s mission is always about how we can shift the narrative and how art” — and, in this case, food — “can be a vehicle for this widening of the aperture,” Huey says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each session will be different, but at the most basic level, there will always be a personal storytelling component and a Q&A. Each chef will share samples of their food (either cooked while guests watch or prepared ahead of time) that connect in some way to the story of their immigrant experience or their cultural heritage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the inaugural workshop, Bake Sum’s Tang will pass out a small box of pastries to help elucidate her theme of “Past, Present and Future.” Attendees will receive a green onion croissant that evokes Tang’s childhood memories of eating green onion pancakes in Chinatown, an okonomiyaki Danish that speaks to the present day and her interpretation of a mooncake, which points toward the future of Asian American diasporic cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Guests will sit at long banquet tables inside the gallery, in the heart of Chinatown, surrounded by the artwork in Edge on the Square’s current exhibition, \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/walking-stories\">\u003ci>Walking Stories\u003c/i>\u003c/a> — which, fittingly, is also centered on stories and storytellers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963121\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963121\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000.jpg\" alt=\"image of crowd holding banners under Chinatown lanterns and an image of a projection on a building front\" width=\"2000\" height=\"864\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-800x346.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-1020x441.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-160x69.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-768x332.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-1536x664.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-1920x829.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Scene from ‘Under the Same Sun,’ a previous event hosted by Edge on the Square. \u003ccite>(Henrik Kam)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tickets for the workshops are pay-what-you-can, with a suggested donation of $20 — though Linda Lui, the art hub’s communications director, stresses that they don’t want the cost to deter anyone from coming. Past Edge on the Square events, like a mahjong night and a concept barter shop, have drawn college students, prominent Asian American intellectuals and activists, and the local “popo” who walks past the Chinatown gallery every night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the \u003ci>MSG \u003c/i>series itself will run through May, that won’t be the end of the project. Edge on the Square is also collaborating with the \u003ca href=\"https://www.goodmedicinefilms.com/forever-chinatown\">Emmy-nominated\u003c/a> San Francisco director James Q. Chan, who will be on hand to film the workshops, with plans to turn them into a six-part documentary series.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/msg\">MSG: Making, Sharing, Gathering\u003c/a>\u003ci> workshops will be held approximately once a month, through May 2025, at Edge on the Square (800 Grant Ave., San Francisco). Tickets for each session will be released online 30 days in advance. The first workshop, featuring Joyce Tang of Bake Sum, will be on Saturday, Oct. 19, 4–5 p.m. Tickets are pay-what-you-can, but must be \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/joyce-tang\">\u003ci>reserved ahead of time\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, as seating is extremely limited.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "This Night Market Puts Pacific Island Cuisine Front and Center",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966376\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966376\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2.jpg\" alt=\"A platter of assorted Tongan stews and other Polynesian dishes.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1608\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-800x643.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-1020x820.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-160x129.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-768x617.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-1536x1235.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-1920x1544.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A mixed platter from Tokemoana. The Tongan food business is one of several Pacific Island eateries that will be featured at the South Pacific Food Fest night market in East Palo Alto. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tokemoana Foods)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These days the Bay Area is awash with so many \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13963258/bay-area-night-markets-food-fall-guide-2024\">night markets\u003c/a>, it’s possible for a hardcore street food lover to hit one up almost every single weekend. But the latest market to touch down on the Peninsula is almost certainly the only one where hungry visitors can feast on Fijian meat pies, Tongan teriyaki-braised turkey tails and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DAwQyYUyxYK/?hl=en\">watermelon ’otai\u003c/a>, \u003ci>and \u003c/i>Hawaiian barbecue plate lunches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/southpacificfoodfest/?hl=en\">South Pacific Food Fest\u003c/a> is the Bay Area’s only night market dedicated exclusively to Pacific Island culture and cuisine. The annual event’s second edition takes place this Saturday, Oct. 12, at \u003ca href=\"https://www.university-circle.com/\">University Circle\u003c/a> in East Palo Alto.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13963258,arts_13911062']The night market is the brainchild of Fusi Taaga (of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tokemoanafoods/?hl=en\">Tokemoana Foods\u003c/a>) and Angelina Hurrell, both of whom have spent years selling their island dishes at food events all over Northern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Taaga tells it, many Pacific Island food vendors are no stranger to the Bay Area festival circuit, but they’re often relegated to supporting actor status at big events (like, say, \u003ca href=\"https://sfoutsidelands.com/food-and-drink/taste-of-the-bay-area/\">Outside Lands\u003c/a>) where food isn’t the main focus. And while the Bay is home to plenty of large-scale AAPI food festivals, the reality is that these tend to be heavy on the “AA” and relatively light on the “PI,” with maybe only one or two vendors at the most representing all of the different islands in the South Pacific.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966381\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966381\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor.jpg\" alt=\"A vendor selling traditional woven crafts at a Pacific Islander festival.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1377\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-800x551.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-1020x702.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-768x529.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-1536x1058.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-1920x1322.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A crafts vendor at last year’s inaugural South Pacific Food Fest. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tokemoana Foods)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“In a lot of those spaces, the actual representation from Pacific Islanders is very minimal,” Taaga says. “It’s not really anyone’s fault.” So, she and Hurrell decided to create a space of their own — a festival where Polynesian/Pacific Islander cuisine would be front and center.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In short, Taaga says, “We wanted to create an event where Pacific Islanders do feel like it’s about them and this community.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The night market aspect was mostly just to accommodate working people’s schedules and help create an atmosphere — with art, music and other cultural performances — where folks would want to stay and hang out for a while, instead of just grabbing a meal on the run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year’s South Pacific Food Fest will feature 16 food vendors, culled from over 60 applications—an outpouring of interest that speaks to the abundance of island food here in the Bay Area. In fact, the local Pacific Islander food scene’s robustness may come as a surprise to those outside of the community: Apart from the ubiquity of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13911062/hawaiian-barbecue-bay-area-multicultural-oakland-ilava\">Hawaiian barbecue restaurants\u003c/a> across the region, many of these businesses are food trucks, pop-ups and catering operations. Often, they don’t have a brick-and-mortar presence and haven’t gotten a ton of press coverage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966377\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966377\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie.jpg\" alt=\"Fijian meat pie cut open so that the meaty cross section is visible.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-1229x1536.jpg 1229w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-1638x2048.jpg 1638w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-1920x2400.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Fijian mince and cheese pie from Bula Pies Fiji. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Bula Pies Fiji)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What Taaga and Hurrell hope, then, is that the night market will help showcase the tremendous diversity of Pacific Island cuisine. Saturday’s food lineup will include flaky-crusted Fijian-style minced beef pies and smoked brisket pies from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bula.pies.fiji/?hl=en\">Bula Pies Fiji\u003c/a> and lamb curry from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fijianbbq/\">Fijian BBQ\u003c/a>. Tokemoana, whose brick-and-mortar restaurant in San Mateo closed last year, will sell Tongan braised turkey tails and feke (octopus in cream sauce). And the chef for \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DA2RsuwPIfn/\">Saia’s Spot in East Palo Alto\u003c/a> — perhaps the Bay Area’s first Tongan restaurant whose heyday was during the early 2000s — is coming out of retirement to serve lu kapapulu, a Polynesian staple made with taro leaves and corned beef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, other Pacific Islander–owned businesses will serve dishes not typically associated with the South Pacific — like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DAokxVUyJ2c/\">hibachi\u003c/a> plates and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DAhqJo7vZ6E/\">Cajun seafood boil\u003c/a>, prepared with an island twist. Dessert options will include \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DAzWk1OSmO0/?hl=en\">Dole whip\u003c/a> and the Samoan cinnamon cake known as puligi. And yes, there will be plenty of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/its_poly_bbq_/\">Hawaiian barbecue\u003c/a> too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966379\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966379\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl.jpg\" alt=\"Braised turkey tails over rice in a small pot.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1126\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-1536x865.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-1920x1081.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Braised turkey tails over rice — a Tongan specialty courtesy of Tokemoana. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tokemoana Foods)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Taaga recalls that when she first opened her diner-like San Mateo restaurant, so many American customers came and ordered things like teriyaki cheeseburgers and banana macadamia nut pancakes — in other words, dishes that aren’t really Tongan foods at all. But then they would see, and become curious about, the more traditional dishes on the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She hopes the South Pacific Food Fest can function in a similar way. The event will, first and foremost, be an opportunity for the local Pacific Island community to come together. But she also hopes those outside of the community will come, perhaps drawn in by the promise of poke bowls and Hawaiian barbecue. And once they’re there? Hopefully, Taaga says, they’ll also try some of the lesser-known foods on offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s an opportunity for these businesses to showcase their food and their culture to the outside world,” Taaga says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/south-pacific-food-fest-tickets-1039309180737?aff=oddtdtcreator\">\u003ci>South Pacific Food Fest\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will take place on Saturday, Oct. 12, from 4–10 p.m. at University Circle in East Palo Alto. Admission is free.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966376\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966376\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2.jpg\" alt=\"A platter of assorted Tongan stews and other Polynesian dishes.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1608\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-800x643.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-1020x820.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-160x129.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-768x617.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-1536x1235.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-1920x1544.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A mixed platter from Tokemoana. The Tongan food business is one of several Pacific Island eateries that will be featured at the South Pacific Food Fest night market in East Palo Alto. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tokemoana Foods)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These days the Bay Area is awash with so many \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13963258/bay-area-night-markets-food-fall-guide-2024\">night markets\u003c/a>, it’s possible for a hardcore street food lover to hit one up almost every single weekend. But the latest market to touch down on the Peninsula is almost certainly the only one where hungry visitors can feast on Fijian meat pies, Tongan teriyaki-braised turkey tails and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DAwQyYUyxYK/?hl=en\">watermelon ’otai\u003c/a>, \u003ci>and \u003c/i>Hawaiian barbecue plate lunches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/southpacificfoodfest/?hl=en\">South Pacific Food Fest\u003c/a> is the Bay Area’s only night market dedicated exclusively to Pacific Island culture and cuisine. The annual event’s second edition takes place this Saturday, Oct. 12, at \u003ca href=\"https://www.university-circle.com/\">University Circle\u003c/a> in East Palo Alto.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>The night market is the brainchild of Fusi Taaga (of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tokemoanafoods/?hl=en\">Tokemoana Foods\u003c/a>) and Angelina Hurrell, both of whom have spent years selling their island dishes at food events all over Northern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Taaga tells it, many Pacific Island food vendors are no stranger to the Bay Area festival circuit, but they’re often relegated to supporting actor status at big events (like, say, \u003ca href=\"https://sfoutsidelands.com/food-and-drink/taste-of-the-bay-area/\">Outside Lands\u003c/a>) where food isn’t the main focus. And while the Bay is home to plenty of large-scale AAPI food festivals, the reality is that these tend to be heavy on the “AA” and relatively light on the “PI,” with maybe only one or two vendors at the most representing all of the different islands in the South Pacific.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966381\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966381\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor.jpg\" alt=\"A vendor selling traditional woven crafts at a Pacific Islander festival.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1377\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-800x551.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-1020x702.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-768x529.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-1536x1058.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-1920x1322.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A crafts vendor at last year’s inaugural South Pacific Food Fest. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tokemoana Foods)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“In a lot of those spaces, the actual representation from Pacific Islanders is very minimal,” Taaga says. “It’s not really anyone’s fault.” So, she and Hurrell decided to create a space of their own — a festival where Polynesian/Pacific Islander cuisine would be front and center.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In short, Taaga says, “We wanted to create an event where Pacific Islanders do feel like it’s about them and this community.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The night market aspect was mostly just to accommodate working people’s schedules and help create an atmosphere — with art, music and other cultural performances — where folks would want to stay and hang out for a while, instead of just grabbing a meal on the run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year’s South Pacific Food Fest will feature 16 food vendors, culled from over 60 applications—an outpouring of interest that speaks to the abundance of island food here in the Bay Area. In fact, the local Pacific Islander food scene’s robustness may come as a surprise to those outside of the community: Apart from the ubiquity of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13911062/hawaiian-barbecue-bay-area-multicultural-oakland-ilava\">Hawaiian barbecue restaurants\u003c/a> across the region, many of these businesses are food trucks, pop-ups and catering operations. Often, they don’t have a brick-and-mortar presence and haven’t gotten a ton of press coverage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966377\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966377\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie.jpg\" alt=\"Fijian meat pie cut open so that the meaty cross section is visible.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-1229x1536.jpg 1229w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-1638x2048.jpg 1638w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-1920x2400.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Fijian mince and cheese pie from Bula Pies Fiji. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Bula Pies Fiji)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What Taaga and Hurrell hope, then, is that the night market will help showcase the tremendous diversity of Pacific Island cuisine. Saturday’s food lineup will include flaky-crusted Fijian-style minced beef pies and smoked brisket pies from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bula.pies.fiji/?hl=en\">Bula Pies Fiji\u003c/a> and lamb curry from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fijianbbq/\">Fijian BBQ\u003c/a>. Tokemoana, whose brick-and-mortar restaurant in San Mateo closed last year, will sell Tongan braised turkey tails and feke (octopus in cream sauce). And the chef for \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DA2RsuwPIfn/\">Saia’s Spot in East Palo Alto\u003c/a> — perhaps the Bay Area’s first Tongan restaurant whose heyday was during the early 2000s — is coming out of retirement to serve lu kapapulu, a Polynesian staple made with taro leaves and corned beef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, other Pacific Islander–owned businesses will serve dishes not typically associated with the South Pacific — like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DAokxVUyJ2c/\">hibachi\u003c/a> plates and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DAhqJo7vZ6E/\">Cajun seafood boil\u003c/a>, prepared with an island twist. Dessert options will include \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DAzWk1OSmO0/?hl=en\">Dole whip\u003c/a> and the Samoan cinnamon cake known as puligi. And yes, there will be plenty of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/its_poly_bbq_/\">Hawaiian barbecue\u003c/a> too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966379\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966379\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl.jpg\" alt=\"Braised turkey tails over rice in a small pot.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1126\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-1536x865.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-1920x1081.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Braised turkey tails over rice — a Tongan specialty courtesy of Tokemoana. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tokemoana Foods)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Taaga recalls that when she first opened her diner-like San Mateo restaurant, so many American customers came and ordered things like teriyaki cheeseburgers and banana macadamia nut pancakes — in other words, dishes that aren’t really Tongan foods at all. But then they would see, and become curious about, the more traditional dishes on the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She hopes the South Pacific Food Fest can function in a similar way. The event will, first and foremost, be an opportunity for the local Pacific Island community to come together. But she also hopes those outside of the community will come, perhaps drawn in by the promise of poke bowls and Hawaiian barbecue. And once they’re there? Hopefully, Taaga says, they’ll also try some of the lesser-known foods on offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s an opportunity for these businesses to showcase their food and their culture to the outside world,” Taaga says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/south-pacific-food-fest-tickets-1039309180737?aff=oddtdtcreator\">\u003ci>South Pacific Food Fest\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will take place on Saturday, Oct. 12, from 4–10 p.m. at University Circle in East Palo Alto. Admission is free.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>China’s northern Shanxi province is famous for its wheat-based cuisine, like the knife-shaved noodles that are the particular specialty of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/huangchengnoodles/\">Huangcheng Noodle House\u003c/a> in Oakland. But what does a Shanxier eat when he isn’t in the mood for pasta?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In those cases, says Huangcheng chef-owner Jimmy Huang, a plate of dumplings is often the go-to meal. Which is why the third-generation noodle maker decided to expand his family’s \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2022/10/17/23409456/kaokao-grill-berkeley-new-barbecue-restaurant\">burgeoning East Bay restaurant mini-empire\u003c/a> by opening \u003ca href=\"https://www.huangchengpotsticker.com/\">Huang Cheng Potsticker\u003c/a>, a food stall just down the hall from his \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2021/1/25/22245029/huangcheng-noodle-house-opening-photos-oakland-shanxi-knife-cut-noodles\">flagship noodle shop\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904416/old-oakland-block-party-international-food-swans-market\">Swan’s Market\u003c/a>. The new restaurant, which took over the old Dela Curo Curry/B-Dama spot, specializes in both boiled and pan-fried dumplings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Huang, whose toothsome, pleasingly ruffle-edged noodles have built a cult following, says he always wanted to serve potstickers but never had the space at the noodle house. So he jumped at the opportunity to open a standalone dumpling shop. The menu is short and sweet: For now, there are only two types of dumplings, pork or shrimp, both available either boiled or pan-fried. As with Huang’s noodles, the foundation of the dumplings is the handmade dough for the wrappers, which is made from scratch in house. The fillings are simple, based on traditional Shanxi recipes — mostly meat, with a bit of very finely minced Napa cabbage and ginger mixed in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966232\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966232\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread.jpg\" alt=\"A spread of dumplings on a wood table.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu is simple and concise: two kinds of dumplings, available either boiled or pan-fried. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13962284,arts_13937806']These are plump little dumplings that come 18 to an order — two-bite dumplings at the most, each one not much larger in size than a fortune cookie. When I visited over the weekend, I was impressed with the pliant, supple texture of the boiled dumplings’ wrappers. When pan-fried in potsticker form, the well-browned, crunchy bottoms were a fantastic counterpoint to the juicy, super savory pork filling. In a bit of interprovincial fusion, Huang — who grew up in Shanxi but also has family roots in Sichuan — serves the potstickers with a spicy, chili- and scallion-infused dipping sauce that’s tasty enough to drink on its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only problem with serving such cute little dumplings that are as delicious and light on the palate as they are? I felt like I could have eaten 100 of them. (You might consider ordering one more plate than you think you need.) The restaurant rounds out its concise menu with a refreshing cold cucumber appetizer and a chicken curry rice plate, which Huang makes with his own spice mix instead of a premade curry roux.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966237\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966237\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker.jpg\" alt=\"A potsticker, bitten so that its meaty filling is visible.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1375\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-1536x1056.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-1920x1320.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pork potstickers feature a savory filling and well-browned, crunchy bottoms. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Within China, Shanxi’s noodles and other wheat-based dishes are esteemed to be some of the best in the entire country. (One local source documented no fewer than \u003ca href=\"https://www.ft.com/content/86e7d353-27dc-4ce3-a60d-6304fc339571\">\u003ci>890\u003c/i> different “flour foods”\u003c/a> in the province.) In Huang’s view, all of these wheat-based foods, including the dumplings, are the kind of healthy, everyday dishes that make a person’s muscles stronger. In fact, he says matter-of-factly, a diet high in flour foods is why “Shanxi people are stronger than people from the south,” perhaps stoking the flames of China’s long-standing north-south rivalry. (The Guangdong rice-eating side of my family might take issue with this bit of northern folk wisdom, but I’ll grant that the chef’s past life as a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CmtBJSlOF4n/\">professional\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CBXe5xYBYPP/\">acrobat\u003c/a> lends a certain credibility to his muscle-making theories.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mostly, though, Huang just wants to introduce his American clientele to the flavors and textures of Shanxi cuisine. “I tell my customers I’m like a doctor for their appetite,” he says. “I open them up so that they can appreciate new tastes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.huangchengpotsticker.com/\">\u003ci>Huang Cheng Potsticker\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Monday 11 a.m.–3 p.m. and Tuesday–Saturday 11 a.m.–8 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Huang Cheng Potsticker is the newest restaurant to debut at Swan’s Market.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>China’s northern Shanxi province is famous for its wheat-based cuisine, like the knife-shaved noodles that are the particular specialty of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/huangchengnoodles/\">Huangcheng Noodle House\u003c/a> in Oakland. But what does a Shanxier eat when he isn’t in the mood for pasta?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In those cases, says Huangcheng chef-owner Jimmy Huang, a plate of dumplings is often the go-to meal. Which is why the third-generation noodle maker decided to expand his family’s \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2022/10/17/23409456/kaokao-grill-berkeley-new-barbecue-restaurant\">burgeoning East Bay restaurant mini-empire\u003c/a> by opening \u003ca href=\"https://www.huangchengpotsticker.com/\">Huang Cheng Potsticker\u003c/a>, a food stall just down the hall from his \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2021/1/25/22245029/huangcheng-noodle-house-opening-photos-oakland-shanxi-knife-cut-noodles\">flagship noodle shop\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904416/old-oakland-block-party-international-food-swans-market\">Swan’s Market\u003c/a>. The new restaurant, which took over the old Dela Curo Curry/B-Dama spot, specializes in both boiled and pan-fried dumplings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Huang, whose toothsome, pleasingly ruffle-edged noodles have built a cult following, says he always wanted to serve potstickers but never had the space at the noodle house. So he jumped at the opportunity to open a standalone dumpling shop. The menu is short and sweet: For now, there are only two types of dumplings, pork or shrimp, both available either boiled or pan-fried. As with Huang’s noodles, the foundation of the dumplings is the handmade dough for the wrappers, which is made from scratch in house. The fillings are simple, based on traditional Shanxi recipes — mostly meat, with a bit of very finely minced Napa cabbage and ginger mixed in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966232\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966232\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread.jpg\" alt=\"A spread of dumplings on a wood table.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu is simple and concise: two kinds of dumplings, available either boiled or pan-fried. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>These are plump little dumplings that come 18 to an order — two-bite dumplings at the most, each one not much larger in size than a fortune cookie. When I visited over the weekend, I was impressed with the pliant, supple texture of the boiled dumplings’ wrappers. When pan-fried in potsticker form, the well-browned, crunchy bottoms were a fantastic counterpoint to the juicy, super savory pork filling. In a bit of interprovincial fusion, Huang — who grew up in Shanxi but also has family roots in Sichuan — serves the potstickers with a spicy, chili- and scallion-infused dipping sauce that’s tasty enough to drink on its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only problem with serving such cute little dumplings that are as delicious and light on the palate as they are? I felt like I could have eaten 100 of them. (You might consider ordering one more plate than you think you need.) The restaurant rounds out its concise menu with a refreshing cold cucumber appetizer and a chicken curry rice plate, which Huang makes with his own spice mix instead of a premade curry roux.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966237\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966237\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker.jpg\" alt=\"A potsticker, bitten so that its meaty filling is visible.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1375\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-1536x1056.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-1920x1320.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pork potstickers feature a savory filling and well-browned, crunchy bottoms. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Within China, Shanxi’s noodles and other wheat-based dishes are esteemed to be some of the best in the entire country. (One local source documented no fewer than \u003ca href=\"https://www.ft.com/content/86e7d353-27dc-4ce3-a60d-6304fc339571\">\u003ci>890\u003c/i> different “flour foods”\u003c/a> in the province.) In Huang’s view, all of these wheat-based foods, including the dumplings, are the kind of healthy, everyday dishes that make a person’s muscles stronger. In fact, he says matter-of-factly, a diet high in flour foods is why “Shanxi people are stronger than people from the south,” perhaps stoking the flames of China’s long-standing north-south rivalry. (The Guangdong rice-eating side of my family might take issue with this bit of northern folk wisdom, but I’ll grant that the chef’s past life as a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CmtBJSlOF4n/\">professional\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CBXe5xYBYPP/\">acrobat\u003c/a> lends a certain credibility to his muscle-making theories.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mostly, though, Huang just wants to introduce his American clientele to the flavors and textures of Shanxi cuisine. “I tell my customers I’m like a doctor for their appetite,” he says. “I open them up so that they can appreciate new tastes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.huangchengpotsticker.com/\">\u003ci>Huang Cheng Potsticker\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Monday 11 a.m.–3 p.m. and Tuesday–Saturday 11 a.m.–8 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Food trucks tend to focus on meals that can be enjoyed on the go, so when I came across Shaddai, a new Guatemalan food truck in San Jose, I was shocked to see cooks walking steaming-hot bowls of pepián de gallina and caldo de res over to eager diners. More than that, the menu is huge — literally a banner as tall as the truck — and features hard-to-find specialties like chow mein tostadas and Guatemalan enchiladas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located in a bustling food truck park on the outskirts of downtown, Shaddai is the creation of Betxaida Lopez. Lopez and her family moved from the Guatemalan city of Tiquisate, Escuintla to San Jose when she was seven years old. As an adult, she started a housecleaning business with her mother, Irma Lopez. They often talked about opening a restaurant together but never expected the opportunity would come straight to their door.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My brother is a contractor,” Lopez explains. “A guy who hired him couldn’t pay cash, so he offered him the truck.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966136\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966136\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck.jpg\" alt='A food truck. The name on the logo reads, \"Shaddai Guatemalan Cuisine.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The truck is located in a food truck park just outside of downtown San Jose. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Although Lopez’s professional kitchen experience up until that point was limited to a few months at a local pizzeria, she jumped at the opportunity. In the months before the truck launched, she and her mother cooked side by side until Lopez felt she had mastered her mother’s repertoire of traditional recipes and techniques.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her hard work has paid off. The churrasco chapin at Shaddai feels like a plate you might be offered at a Lopez family barbecue. While it resembles the kind of carne asada plate you might find at other Latin American restaurants, the flavors and textures are distinctly Guatemalan. The grilled steak is loaded with chirmol, a charred tomato salsa; the black beans have been blended to a thick, pudding-like consistency; and the rice is speckled with peas and carrots. If you want the full family party experience, visit Shaddai on the weekends and sit under the gazebo adorned with string lights while brave diners sing Spanish oldies at the outdoor karaoke station and children play in the bounce house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966137\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966137\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin.jpg\" alt=\"A Styrofoam plate with salsa-covered steak, rice, puréed beans and a side of tortillas.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The churrasco chapin is a distinctly Guatemalan take on the typical carne asada plate. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I heard one customer exclaim, “¡A la gran puchica voz!” (essentially, “damn!”) just from reading a sticker on Shaddai’s window — a reflection, perhaps, of how excited locals are to have a Guatemalan food option close to home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Most of our customers are Guatemalan,” says Lopez. “There’s no food truck or restaurant that’s Guatemalan in San Jose. People tell us they would travel to San Francisco, but now it’s here.” (While there are a small handful of \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/antojitos-chapines-guatemala-and-mexican-food-san-jose\">Guatemalan-owned food businesses\u003c/a> in the area, none of them serve a full-fledged, exclusively Guatemalan menu like Shaddai’s.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since Shaddai is located in a parking lot packed with a variety of other food trucks, it also attracts a fair number of wandering customers unfamiliar with the cuisine. After all, it’s hard to walk past a menu promoting tostadas topped with chow mein and dry, salted cheese without doing a double-take. While that particular dish sounds like a strange, modern fusion, chow mein tostadas actually have roots in Guatemala’s Chinese immigrant community going back to the \u003ca href=\"http://web.archive.org/web/20130912105353/http://publicogt.com/2013/06/05/migraciaon-china-en-guatemala/\">early 1900s\u003c/a>. They remain a \u003ca href=\"https://lamag.com/news/essential-t-chow-mein-tostadas-at-guatemalteca-bakery-restaurant\">popular street food item\u003c/a> to this day. Another notable variation on tostadas is Shaddai’s garnachas: fresh tortilla chips topped with shredded beef along with the same salsa and curtido that accompany pupusas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966138\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966138\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada.jpg\" alt=\"A tostada topped with ground beef, pickled beets and a slice of hard-boiled egg.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Guatemala’s version of enchiladas consists of a tostada topped with ground beef, pickled beets and a slice of hard-boiled egg. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When Lopez mentioned that her favorite dish is enchiladas, I nodded along in agreement, thinking of the saucy fried tortillas my family enjoys each week. Then Lopez clarified, “It’s way different from Mexican enchiladas.” As it turns out, the Guatemalan version is made by tossing ground meat in tomato sauce and loading it onto a tostada with mayo, lettuce, pickled beets and slices of hard-boiled egg. Every bite is fresh, bright and savory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13923359,arts_13954112,arts_13925233']Some items like pepián de gallina, a chicken stew made with pumpkin seeds and sesame seeds, are only available on weekends when the truck is fully staffed. “Pepián is our signature dish in Guatemala,” says Lopez. “It’s like the mole for Mexico. We would love to have it every day, but it’s delicate.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s also always a surprise or two on the menu each weekend. In past weeks, Lopez has made frijol colorado con costillas, chiles rellenos, and an incredibly crisp version of fried chicken. I’ve tried almost everything. Among the weekend specials, one of my favorites is the rellenitos — plump, fried, sugar-coated ovals made from plantains and stuffed with sweet beans or manjar (a milk-based filling).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966140\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966140\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos.jpg\" alt=\"Sugar-coated rellenitos, a fried plantain pastry.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rellenitos, a sugar-coated dessert made with fried mashed plantains. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Each plate of food at Shaddai comes staked with a toothpick that proudly waves a Guatemalan flag. It’s a reflection of Lopez’s pride for her home country and excitement to share the cuisine with the South Bay. These days, she and her mother cook together on the truck six days a week — a fulfillment of the elder Lopez’s lifelong dream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“At a young age, my mom taught me to shoot for the stars,” Lopez says. “Little by little we’re getting there. It feels nice to say I’m a business owner.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/shaddai.cuisine/\">\u003ci>Shaddai Guatemalan Cuisine\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (1302 South 1st St., San Jose) is open Tuesday–Friday 11 a.m to 8 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Cash only.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966134\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966134\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez.jpg\" alt=\"Two women — the operators of the Shaddai food truck — pose for a portrait in front of the truck.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1373\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-800x549.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-1020x700.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-768x527.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-1536x1054.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-1920x1318.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Irma (lef) and Betxaida Lopez. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Shaddai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Food trucks tend to focus on meals that can be enjoyed on the go, so when I came across Shaddai, a new Guatemalan food truck in San Jose, I was shocked to see cooks walking steaming-hot bowls of pepián de gallina and caldo de res over to eager diners. More than that, the menu is huge — literally a banner as tall as the truck — and features hard-to-find specialties like chow mein tostadas and Guatemalan enchiladas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located in a bustling food truck park on the outskirts of downtown, Shaddai is the creation of Betxaida Lopez. Lopez and her family moved from the Guatemalan city of Tiquisate, Escuintla to San Jose when she was seven years old. As an adult, she started a housecleaning business with her mother, Irma Lopez. They often talked about opening a restaurant together but never expected the opportunity would come straight to their door.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My brother is a contractor,” Lopez explains. “A guy who hired him couldn’t pay cash, so he offered him the truck.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966136\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966136\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck.jpg\" alt='A food truck. The name on the logo reads, \"Shaddai Guatemalan Cuisine.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The truck is located in a food truck park just outside of downtown San Jose. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Although Lopez’s professional kitchen experience up until that point was limited to a few months at a local pizzeria, she jumped at the opportunity. In the months before the truck launched, she and her mother cooked side by side until Lopez felt she had mastered her mother’s repertoire of traditional recipes and techniques.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her hard work has paid off. The churrasco chapin at Shaddai feels like a plate you might be offered at a Lopez family barbecue. While it resembles the kind of carne asada plate you might find at other Latin American restaurants, the flavors and textures are distinctly Guatemalan. The grilled steak is loaded with chirmol, a charred tomato salsa; the black beans have been blended to a thick, pudding-like consistency; and the rice is speckled with peas and carrots. If you want the full family party experience, visit Shaddai on the weekends and sit under the gazebo adorned with string lights while brave diners sing Spanish oldies at the outdoor karaoke station and children play in the bounce house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966137\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966137\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin.jpg\" alt=\"A Styrofoam plate with salsa-covered steak, rice, puréed beans and a side of tortillas.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The churrasco chapin is a distinctly Guatemalan take on the typical carne asada plate. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I heard one customer exclaim, “¡A la gran puchica voz!” (essentially, “damn!”) just from reading a sticker on Shaddai’s window — a reflection, perhaps, of how excited locals are to have a Guatemalan food option close to home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Most of our customers are Guatemalan,” says Lopez. “There’s no food truck or restaurant that’s Guatemalan in San Jose. People tell us they would travel to San Francisco, but now it’s here.” (While there are a small handful of \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/antojitos-chapines-guatemala-and-mexican-food-san-jose\">Guatemalan-owned food businesses\u003c/a> in the area, none of them serve a full-fledged, exclusively Guatemalan menu like Shaddai’s.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since Shaddai is located in a parking lot packed with a variety of other food trucks, it also attracts a fair number of wandering customers unfamiliar with the cuisine. After all, it’s hard to walk past a menu promoting tostadas topped with chow mein and dry, salted cheese without doing a double-take. While that particular dish sounds like a strange, modern fusion, chow mein tostadas actually have roots in Guatemala’s Chinese immigrant community going back to the \u003ca href=\"http://web.archive.org/web/20130912105353/http://publicogt.com/2013/06/05/migraciaon-china-en-guatemala/\">early 1900s\u003c/a>. They remain a \u003ca href=\"https://lamag.com/news/essential-t-chow-mein-tostadas-at-guatemalteca-bakery-restaurant\">popular street food item\u003c/a> to this day. Another notable variation on tostadas is Shaddai’s garnachas: fresh tortilla chips topped with shredded beef along with the same salsa and curtido that accompany pupusas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966138\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966138\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada.jpg\" alt=\"A tostada topped with ground beef, pickled beets and a slice of hard-boiled egg.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Guatemala’s version of enchiladas consists of a tostada topped with ground beef, pickled beets and a slice of hard-boiled egg. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When Lopez mentioned that her favorite dish is enchiladas, I nodded along in agreement, thinking of the saucy fried tortillas my family enjoys each week. Then Lopez clarified, “It’s way different from Mexican enchiladas.” As it turns out, the Guatemalan version is made by tossing ground meat in tomato sauce and loading it onto a tostada with mayo, lettuce, pickled beets and slices of hard-boiled egg. Every bite is fresh, bright and savory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Some items like pepián de gallina, a chicken stew made with pumpkin seeds and sesame seeds, are only available on weekends when the truck is fully staffed. “Pepián is our signature dish in Guatemala,” says Lopez. “It’s like the mole for Mexico. We would love to have it every day, but it’s delicate.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s also always a surprise or two on the menu each weekend. In past weeks, Lopez has made frijol colorado con costillas, chiles rellenos, and an incredibly crisp version of fried chicken. I’ve tried almost everything. Among the weekend specials, one of my favorites is the rellenitos — plump, fried, sugar-coated ovals made from plantains and stuffed with sweet beans or manjar (a milk-based filling).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966140\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966140\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos.jpg\" alt=\"Sugar-coated rellenitos, a fried plantain pastry.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rellenitos, a sugar-coated dessert made with fried mashed plantains. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Each plate of food at Shaddai comes staked with a toothpick that proudly waves a Guatemalan flag. It’s a reflection of Lopez’s pride for her home country and excitement to share the cuisine with the South Bay. These days, she and her mother cook together on the truck six days a week — a fulfillment of the elder Lopez’s lifelong dream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“At a young age, my mom taught me to shoot for the stars,” Lopez says. “Little by little we’re getting there. It feels nice to say I’m a business owner.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/shaddai.cuisine/\">\u003ci>Shaddai Guatemalan Cuisine\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (1302 South 1st St., San Jose) is open Tuesday–Friday 11 a.m to 8 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Cash only.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966134\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966134\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez.jpg\" alt=\"Two women — the operators of the Shaddai food truck — pose for a portrait in front of the truck.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1373\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-800x549.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-1020x700.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-768x527.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-1536x1054.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-1920x1318.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Irma (lef) and Betxaida Lopez. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Shaddai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "’Tinis and Weenies Are a Winning Late-Night Combination",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966037\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966037\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men seated at a bar devour a spread of hot dogs.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Foodwise, vegan hot dogs are the main attraction at Tallboy. The martini bar in Oakland’s Temescal district is one of the East Bay’s most popular late-night hot spots. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A minute after walking into \u003ca href=\"https://www.tallboy.bar/\">Tallboy\u003c/a>, Oakland’s new self-styled “martini dive bar,” I thought I may have made a mistake in coming here. It wasn’t just that this was the most crowded bar I’d been in since pre-pandemic times, with a throng of people three deep all the way around the big, horseshoe-shaped bar counter. It was more that all of the hip party people in Oakland seemed to have packed themselves into this unmarked, dimly lit watering hole in Temescal, and we couldn’t have felt more out of place. Sharply dressed twenty-somethings were doing rounds of Jell-O shots, and the buzz of boisterous conversation was so loud, I couldn’t even really hear the music — all I could make out was a thumping electronic bass line. I had to raise my voice to almost a shout just to be heard by the person right next to me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And all we’d wanted was to eat some hot dogs at 10 o’clock on a Friday night. So it felt like maybe we had come to the wrong place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I do like, however, is a bar with a legible theme. And among Oakland’s new cocktail spots, Tallboy has the clearest, most appealing three-word elevator pitch: hot dogs and martinis. Or, as the bar has branded itself online, “’tinis and weenies” — a \u003ca href=\"https://www.bustle.com/life/tinis-weenies-party-theme-tiktok\">TikTok dinner party trend\u003c/a> turned into a whole brick-and-mortar business. The cocktail list is mostly martinis and martini-adjacent drinks — seven different varieties served in classic V-shaped martini glasses, plus shot-size “teeny-tinis” and frosty espresso martini slushies. The food menu, meanwhile, is all hot dogs. And we’re not talking your average bar weenie, but an entire menu of whimsically souped-up \u003ci>vegan \u003c/i>hot dogs created by the team behind the recently closed vegan Singaporean sensation, Lion Dance Cafe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>’Tinis and (plant-based) weenies is the promise of a particular kind of good time — the kind of high-low schtick that plays particularly well online. The important thing is that once we finally squeezed into a spot at the counter, we found out that Tallboy’s martinis and hot dogs are both uncommonly good. The dirty martini I ordered came \u003ci>vigorously\u003c/i> shaken and was cold and refreshing as hell, shot through with enough olive brine to make it taste a little bit like the sea. If I were less of a lightweight, I would have happily thrown back two or three of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hot dogs, meanwhile, were a thousand times better than the sad, desiccated Tofu Pups I remember from vegan-friendly cookouts I attended when I was in grad school. The dogs themselves are a relatively new product from Impossible Foods, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.reuters.com/markets/deals/impossible-foods-ceo-says-company-will-raise-cash-with-or-without-ipo-2024-04-29/\">multibillion-dollar corporation\u003c/a> that doesn’t exactly \u003ca href=\"https://www.sportingnews.com/us/tsn/news/joey-chestnut-impossible-foods-banned-hot-dog-eating-contest/ac243bf293a40a3288623297#:~:text=Chestnut%20agreed%20to%20a%20sponsorship,Chestnut%20promoting%20a%20rival%20brand.\">need me to shill for it\u003c/a>. But suffice it to say that the faux-beef wieners deliver on their promise of tasting almost indistinguishable from the real thing, down to the firm but slightly squishy texture I associate with all processed meats. The only thing missing? The \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/24175365/vegan-hot-dogs-snap-uptons-naturals-oscar-mayer\">springy snap\u003c/a> of the casing that you get with the best beef dogs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966041\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966041\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: The exterior of an unmarked, dimly lit bar at nighttime.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It felt like all of Oakland’s hip party people had packed themselves into this unmarked, dimly lit cocktail bar. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But the main selling point of Tallboy’s hot dog menu is the Lion Dance–pedigreed array of multiculturally inspired topping combinations. The namesake Lion Dancing Dog comes garnished with cucumber, peanuts, pickled chilies, cilantro, fried shallots and a seriously spicy sambal aioli — a fire blast of bold, Southeast Asian flavors and crunchy textures. We liked the Korean-inspired Cheese in the Trap even better: The combination of well-fermented kimchi, vegan American cheese, gochujang aioli and crispy noodles is incredibly soothing, like a bowl of dressed-up Shin ramyun in hot dog form. If we had any minor complaint, it was that the buns were too big and overly bready — your classic \u003ca href=\"https://www.epicurious.com/recipes-menus/hot-dog-to-bun-ratio-is-a-scam-article\">wiener-to-bun ratio problem\u003c/a>. But even the simplest dog, topped with nothing but brown mustard and an avalanche of diced onions, scratched a certain comfort food itch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13965215,arts_13962759,arts_13954597']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Tallboy also serves a handful of other snacky vegan dishes created by the Lion Dance Cafe team. There’s a wedge salad, served chilled and topped with faux-bacon bits and an uncannily funky vegan blue cheese dressing, and a chips and dip plate that features a creamy, umami-rich dill pickle dip. And the limey, smoky, toasted-chile-spiked roasted peanuts — a Lion Dance Cafe staple — are simply an elite bar snack. (For the budget-minded, there’s also a free, serve-yourself popcorn station.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For meat eaters, there’s an initial novelty to a meal like this, where upon sampling each new dish, you think, “Wow, is that really vegan??” It’s a testament to how far plant-based meats and cheeses have advanced — and to the broad appeal of Tallboy’s crowd-pleasing menu — that once we really dug in, we stopped thinking about that altogether. It was just damn tasty food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a while, the whole vibe of the place started to grow on us too. This is hardly the first time we’ve been in the position of being the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962759/viridian-asian-american-cocktail-bar-late-night-food-oakland\">only customers ordering a four-course feast\u003c/a> at a cocktail bar. But Tallboy is so crowded, and everyone is in such good spirits, there’s a pleasant kind of anonymity to the experience: No one is going to give you the side-eye for your gratuitous \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/09/03/nx-s1-5098967/joey-chestnut-hot-dog-eating-world-record\">Joey Chestnut impersonation\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More to the point, though, when we finally took a minute to look around, what struck us was how vibrantly diverse the crowd was — bar patrons of all races and ethnicities, often mixed together in surprising groupings, everyone vibing and having a great time. It’s the kind of crowd you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else in the Bay other than in Oakland. The kind that makes the idea of some all-pervasive “doom loop” — everyone too scared to have fun — seem almost laughable. That makes you fall in love with Oakland all over again.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.tallboy.bar/\">\u003ci>Tallboy\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 2 p.m.–midnight on weekdays and 2 p.m.–2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays at 4210 Telegraph Ave. in Oakland.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966037\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966037\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men seated at a bar devour a spread of hot dogs.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Foodwise, vegan hot dogs are the main attraction at Tallboy. The martini bar in Oakland’s Temescal district is one of the East Bay’s most popular late-night hot spots. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A minute after walking into \u003ca href=\"https://www.tallboy.bar/\">Tallboy\u003c/a>, Oakland’s new self-styled “martini dive bar,” I thought I may have made a mistake in coming here. It wasn’t just that this was the most crowded bar I’d been in since pre-pandemic times, with a throng of people three deep all the way around the big, horseshoe-shaped bar counter. It was more that all of the hip party people in Oakland seemed to have packed themselves into this unmarked, dimly lit watering hole in Temescal, and we couldn’t have felt more out of place. Sharply dressed twenty-somethings were doing rounds of Jell-O shots, and the buzz of boisterous conversation was so loud, I couldn’t even really hear the music — all I could make out was a thumping electronic bass line. I had to raise my voice to almost a shout just to be heard by the person right next to me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And all we’d wanted was to eat some hot dogs at 10 o’clock on a Friday night. So it felt like maybe we had come to the wrong place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I do like, however, is a bar with a legible theme. And among Oakland’s new cocktail spots, Tallboy has the clearest, most appealing three-word elevator pitch: hot dogs and martinis. Or, as the bar has branded itself online, “’tinis and weenies” — a \u003ca href=\"https://www.bustle.com/life/tinis-weenies-party-theme-tiktok\">TikTok dinner party trend\u003c/a> turned into a whole brick-and-mortar business. The cocktail list is mostly martinis and martini-adjacent drinks — seven different varieties served in classic V-shaped martini glasses, plus shot-size “teeny-tinis” and frosty espresso martini slushies. The food menu, meanwhile, is all hot dogs. And we’re not talking your average bar weenie, but an entire menu of whimsically souped-up \u003ci>vegan \u003c/i>hot dogs created by the team behind the recently closed vegan Singaporean sensation, Lion Dance Cafe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>’Tinis and (plant-based) weenies is the promise of a particular kind of good time — the kind of high-low schtick that plays particularly well online. The important thing is that once we finally squeezed into a spot at the counter, we found out that Tallboy’s martinis and hot dogs are both uncommonly good. The dirty martini I ordered came \u003ci>vigorously\u003c/i> shaken and was cold and refreshing as hell, shot through with enough olive brine to make it taste a little bit like the sea. If I were less of a lightweight, I would have happily thrown back two or three of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hot dogs, meanwhile, were a thousand times better than the sad, desiccated Tofu Pups I remember from vegan-friendly cookouts I attended when I was in grad school. The dogs themselves are a relatively new product from Impossible Foods, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.reuters.com/markets/deals/impossible-foods-ceo-says-company-will-raise-cash-with-or-without-ipo-2024-04-29/\">multibillion-dollar corporation\u003c/a> that doesn’t exactly \u003ca href=\"https://www.sportingnews.com/us/tsn/news/joey-chestnut-impossible-foods-banned-hot-dog-eating-contest/ac243bf293a40a3288623297#:~:text=Chestnut%20agreed%20to%20a%20sponsorship,Chestnut%20promoting%20a%20rival%20brand.\">need me to shill for it\u003c/a>. But suffice it to say that the faux-beef wieners deliver on their promise of tasting almost indistinguishable from the real thing, down to the firm but slightly squishy texture I associate with all processed meats. The only thing missing? The \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/24175365/vegan-hot-dogs-snap-uptons-naturals-oscar-mayer\">springy snap\u003c/a> of the casing that you get with the best beef dogs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966041\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966041\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: The exterior of an unmarked, dimly lit bar at nighttime.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/tallboy2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It felt like all of Oakland’s hip party people had packed themselves into this unmarked, dimly lit cocktail bar. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But the main selling point of Tallboy’s hot dog menu is the Lion Dance–pedigreed array of multiculturally inspired topping combinations. The namesake Lion Dancing Dog comes garnished with cucumber, peanuts, pickled chilies, cilantro, fried shallots and a seriously spicy sambal aioli — a fire blast of bold, Southeast Asian flavors and crunchy textures. We liked the Korean-inspired Cheese in the Trap even better: The combination of well-fermented kimchi, vegan American cheese, gochujang aioli and crispy noodles is incredibly soothing, like a bowl of dressed-up Shin ramyun in hot dog form. If we had any minor complaint, it was that the buns were too big and overly bready — your classic \u003ca href=\"https://www.epicurious.com/recipes-menus/hot-dog-to-bun-ratio-is-a-scam-article\">wiener-to-bun ratio problem\u003c/a>. But even the simplest dog, topped with nothing but brown mustard and an avalanche of diced onions, scratched a certain comfort food itch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Tallboy also serves a handful of other snacky vegan dishes created by the Lion Dance Cafe team. There’s a wedge salad, served chilled and topped with faux-bacon bits and an uncannily funky vegan blue cheese dressing, and a chips and dip plate that features a creamy, umami-rich dill pickle dip. And the limey, smoky, toasted-chile-spiked roasted peanuts — a Lion Dance Cafe staple — are simply an elite bar snack. (For the budget-minded, there’s also a free, serve-yourself popcorn station.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For meat eaters, there’s an initial novelty to a meal like this, where upon sampling each new dish, you think, “Wow, is that really vegan??” It’s a testament to how far plant-based meats and cheeses have advanced — and to the broad appeal of Tallboy’s crowd-pleasing menu — that once we really dug in, we stopped thinking about that altogether. It was just damn tasty food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a while, the whole vibe of the place started to grow on us too. This is hardly the first time we’ve been in the position of being the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962759/viridian-asian-american-cocktail-bar-late-night-food-oakland\">only customers ordering a four-course feast\u003c/a> at a cocktail bar. But Tallboy is so crowded, and everyone is in such good spirits, there’s a pleasant kind of anonymity to the experience: No one is going to give you the side-eye for your gratuitous \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/09/03/nx-s1-5098967/joey-chestnut-hot-dog-eating-world-record\">Joey Chestnut impersonation\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More to the point, though, when we finally took a minute to look around, what struck us was how vibrantly diverse the crowd was — bar patrons of all races and ethnicities, often mixed together in surprising groupings, everyone vibing and having a great time. It’s the kind of crowd you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else in the Bay other than in Oakland. The kind that makes the idea of some all-pervasive “doom loop” — everyone too scared to have fun — seem almost laughable. That makes you fall in love with Oakland all over again.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.tallboy.bar/\">\u003ci>Tallboy\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 2 p.m.–midnight on weekdays and 2 p.m.–2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays at 4210 Telegraph Ave. in Oakland.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "rose-market-iranian-persian-food-mountain-view",
"title": "This 36-Year-Old Market Is a Homey Destination for Iranian Food",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>KQED’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/siliconvalleyunseen\">Silicon Valley Unseen\u003c/a> is a series of photo essays, original reporting and underreported histories that survey the tech capital’s overlooked communities and subcultures from a local perspective.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My earliest childhood memories revolve around an apartment building near downtown Mountain View, populated by immigrant Asian families and, for a time, my Mexican dad. I vividly recall its details: tight quarters, cockroaches scattering between tiles, a shared backyard and the overpowering aroma of mixed diasporas trying to cook their way back to some faraway homeland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13964538']The most distinct sensory detail, though — one I’ve literally dreamt of as an adult — was the daily, charcoal-thick waft from the Persian market across the street, where Middle Eastern spices commingled with joojeh kabab and koobideh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rose Market is where we’d go for everything from bubblegum and Tahitian punch soda to fresh veggies and poultry. It was among the few places I was allowed to walk to, on my own or with my older brother. Though we moved out of those apartments in the late ’90s, my memory of that market has endured.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965454\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965454\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-12-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-12-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-12-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-12-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-12-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-12-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-12-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-12-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Middle Eastern spices and seasonings greet customers inside the newly renovated Rose International Market on El Camino Real in Mountain View. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Rose Market stood in that same location for decades. At the height of its popularity, Middle Eastern families would visit from all over the region. The market eventually expanded to nearby Saratoga, becoming Silicon Valley’s definitive outlet for Iranian foods and groceries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But over the years, as Silicon Valley underwent drastic redevelopment and a tech-induced real estate land grab, some smaller businesses clustered near Rose Market — including Clarke’s Burgers, Le’s Alterations, an auto shop and a liquor store — receded from the landscape. Clarke’s had been a no-frills neighborhood institution, and it was where my single dad would often take us to watch 49ers games. Prior to its closing in 2020, \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Clarkes-Charcoal-Broiler-Mountain-View-closes-75-15184803.php\">near the start of the pandemic\u003c/a>, it had been the oldest restaurant in all of Mountain View, and perhaps the most universally beloved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By then, Rose had also disappeared in Mountain View. From 2015 to 2019, as rents skyrocketed and trendier properties sprouted up nearby, the humble Iranian market closed its doors, making way for a ritzy mixed-use apartment complex. For nearly half a decade, there was no scent of Persian-style kebabs in Mountain View.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Due to public outcry, however, the developer \u003ca href=\"https://www.paloaltoonline.com/blogs/2019/02/14/rose-international-market-returns-to-mountain-view/\">signed long-term leases for a handful of small businesses\u003c/a>, including Rose, to remain on the ground floor once construction was complete. Through all of those back-and-forth negotiations, and a temporary relocation to Cupertino, Rose Market was one of the lucky ones, able to endure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965462\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965462\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-59-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-59-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-59-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-59-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-59-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-59-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-59-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-59-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rose International Market’s new look is drastically different from its humble beginnings in 1988. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 2019, Rose finally reopened at the new site. Its exterior is modernized, an extension of a sterile, swanky campus-like structure, similar to those of adjacent small businesses like Le’s Alterations, the Asian-owned dry cleaner from my childhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, Rose Market continues to supply a busy clientele with imported specialty products, like Persian pistachio ice cream sandwiches and an extensive selection of hard-to-find teas from abroad. Though unfamiliar in its updated appearance, it still delivers the same aromatic sensory overload of the old market, offering a soupçon of Iranian culture I’ve always associated with my South Bay upbringing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13965311\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/SVU.LogoBreak.computer.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/SVU.LogoBreak.computer.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/SVU.LogoBreak.computer-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/SVU.LogoBreak.computer-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area — and Silicon Valley, in particular — has been a hotbed for Iranian immigrants and refugees for over half a century. The initial wave of Persians \u003ca href=\"https://newsroom.ucla.edu/stories/mapping-the-iranian-diaspora-in-america\">mass migrated to the United States in 1979 as a result of the Islamic Revolution\u003c/a>, with the highest concentrations in Los Angeles and San Jose. From 1980 to 1988, during the Iran-Iraq War, even more Iranians left their homeland for California. Today, the state boasts the highest population of Iranians nationwide with over 200,000 estimated residents (as the \u003ca href=\"https://cids.sfsu.edu/background-center\">Center for Iranian Diaspora Studies reports\u003c/a>, no official census data exists for Iranian Americans).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965493\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965493\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-10-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1684\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-10-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-10-800x526.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-10-1020x671.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-10-160x105.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-10-768x505.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-10-1536x1010.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-10-2048x1347.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-10-1920x1263.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rose water for sale at Rose International Market in Mountain View. The region has been home to one of the nation’s largest Iranian populations for nearly half a century. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After leaving Iran, Saied Mehranfar cofounded Rose Market with his brothers in 1988. You can usually find him bustling around the market, delegating tasks and overseeing the business. His English is limited and his storytelling is sparse, but during a recent visit he gave me a tour around the shop, pointing out the different sections of fresh produce, imported beverages and the store’s upgraded kitchen. He then directed me to his nephew, Ramin, a second-generation Iranian American who helps run daily operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The developer came and bought up all this property piece by piece, and everything closed down for a few years,” Ramin said, recalling the period of time when the market’s future in Mountain View was uncertain. “[But] this place was always meant for us to come back.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Mountain View had the first Rose Market,” he continued, referring to the shop’s previous iteration in another part of Mountain View. “Then [we] got a bigger place, and then the one that everybody knows from over 35 years ago.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965460\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965460\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-40-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-40-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-40-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-40-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-40-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-40-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-40-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-40-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mohsen Amiri, right, smiles at Ramin Mehranfar, both employees at Rose International Market in Mountain View. Ramin’s uncle, Saied, is an original co-owner who sometimes appears at the market. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was one of those who grew up knowing Rose on Castro Street and Victor Way, when smells from the market wandered through my second-floor apartment’s bedroom window. (The view to the market has since been obstructed by a cookie-cutter development of homes in the adjacent lot, once a dirt field wonderland for kids like me.) Just as Rose offers a sense of connection to a lost homeland for Iranians and Middle Eastern immigrants, it simultaneously connects me to my own upbringing in pre-Googleplex Mountain View.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965453\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965453\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-6-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-6-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-6-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-6-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-6-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-6-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-6-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-6-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Middle Eastern stew at Rose International Market, a 37-year-old Iranian market, in Mountain View on September 23, 2024. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mohammad.earth/\">Mohammad Gorjestani\u003c/a> can relate. \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">An \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mohammad.earth/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Iranian born filmmaker\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, artist, and founder of production company and creative studio \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/evenodd.studio/?hl=en\">Even/Odd\u003c/a> in San Francisco, Gorjestani grew up in West San Jose immersed in Iranian traditions. After he and his parents arrived to the Bay Area from Iran in 1988, places like Rose Market became a destination.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It was a little far from The Gardens [a Section 8 apartment complex in San Jose where many Iranian families lived], \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">but we would pick up food often at places like Chelokebabi, Yas, or Rose Market and picnic at Shoreline,\u003c/span>” says Gorjestani. “That was a tradition.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a filmmaker who spent this past summer in Iran capturing the nation’s affinity for wrestling during the 2024 Olympics, Gorjestani is aware of the various complexities and nuances that surround Iran, its migrants and its cultural norms. While the slang and customs have morphed in Iran — a nation which Gorjestani admits is “like a black box to Americans,” \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">due its portrayal, restricted access, and heavy Western sanctions — Iranians in the diaspora have been more stuck in a time of the past.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965459\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965459\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-37-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-37-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-37-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-37-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-37-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-37-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-37-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-37-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ibrahim Almamori, a Rose International Market employee of over 30 years, makes Kabob Koubideh, in Mountain View on September 23, 2024. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Iran has evolved, but the people who immigrated here are still mimicking what they left behind, I think it’s a natural way of finding comfort for my parents’ generation especially” he told me over the phone while still overseas. “There’s a curtain drawn around Iran by the West. It’s very particular what is seen and shared. That’s why, even being there, it’s like being in a portal. You feel totally transported.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gorjestani reflected on his recent trip to Tehran, Iran’s metropolitan capital, and how it was filled with younger “new wave” efforts, such as craft coffee shops and eateries excited to offer pizzas and burgers. He sees the art and culinary scene in Tehran as eclectic, worldly, experimental — on par with other major cities in the world. In Northern Iran, known for its food and especially sour flavor profiles, Gorjestani experienced things he didn’t even know existed like “Chanar,” distinctly regional dessert shops focused on creating pomegranate-only concoctions of shaved ice, slushies and regional lavashak (“fruit roll-ups”) that he’s never seen. It’s not the Iran that his parents or former generations may have remembered or ever known.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There’s even a word commonly used (“sonnati”) for anything traditional. It’s not that traditional foods and customs are no longer revered; they’re just no longer the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">only\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> defining aspects of define Iran’s burgeoning multi-generational identity. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“When I was going out over there, people would ask, do you want to go to a sonnati — like a traditional place — or do you want to go to a contemporary place, like a fast food spot? I got asked that a lot by all the gracious hosts I had” he says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Gorjestani, Rose Market is more sonnati. It’s a reflection of a time left behind by a certain generation.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965492\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965492\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-55-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-55-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-55-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-55-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-55-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-55-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-55-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-55-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-55-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traditional Middle Eastern pastries are plentiful at Rose International Market. The shop offers a variety of Iranian sweets. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“These Iranian markets [in Silicon Valley] were new at the time,” says Gorjestani. “These places were [being opened by] immigrants in their twenties, thirties, maybe forties and fifties if you’re pushing it. They had this energy to create something for the diaspora here and for themselves to deal with being homesick. Then they get older, their businesses get older, and maybe their kids don’t want to run a family business or do their own thing. They’re not as connected to the homeland as their parents are, and things start to fade, assimilate, move on. It’s natural for the ebb and flow of any diaspora. But I’m so grateful for places like Rose Market who kept us connected to our Vatan [motherland]. ”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dinner at Rose Market might begin with fesenjan, a sweet pomegranate stew bathing thick, uneven chunks of chicken and mixed with ground walnut. When scooped on top of an order of cabbage rice, it smacks harder than just about any dish I’ve ever had. You can pair that with koofteh Tabrizi, a delectable meatball bigger — and meatier — than my balled up fist. The saffron and cinnamon mingle with fresh herbs, onions and prunes, while a massive walnut stuffed at its core awaits. Unlike the average American meatball, which usually functions as a sidekick to pasta, the Iranian koofteh is a meal unto itself. Served in its own juices, it needn’t be accompanied by much more than your appetite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But you’ll want to add more anyway: ghormeh sabzi (a zesty, lemony stew of kidney beans and tender beef), kalam polo (rice and cabbage fried to a golden, auburn hue), tabouli salad, tahdig (crisp, pan-burnt rice), and the showstopping varieties of kebab plated in a to-go box with a generous side of traditional Persian lavash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These items won’t just fill an empty stomach. They’ll bring you closer to enlightenment, reminding you of all things good and holy about our corporeal existence. In that sense, Rose Market is about timelessness, and perhaps that’s why it has lasted for nearly 40 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965494\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965494\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-25-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-25-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-25-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-25-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-25-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-25-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-25-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-25-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-25-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pistachios are a favorite at Rose International Market. In addition to fresh items and produce, the hot food counter at the back of the shop is a key attraction at the longstanding grocery store. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In Silicon Valley — hyper-forward thinking, constantly transmorphing — sonnati is necessary. Rose Market may be stuck on a different Iranian timeline, but it represents a more tender version of Silicon Valley, before the dot-com arms race seized this region’s image, and dictated who gets to live and eat here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I walk into Rose Market now — as an adult, father, and journalist — it teleports me to a quondam time and place that I can never let go of. These days, that’s the kind of nourishment I rarely get anywhere else.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13965311\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/SVU.LogoBreak.computer.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/SVU.LogoBreak.computer.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/SVU.LogoBreak.computer-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/SVU.LogoBreak.computer-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv dir=\"auto\">\u003cem>Rose International Market (801 W El Camino Real Suite B, Mountain View) is open daily for groceries from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. and hot food from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.\u003c/em>\u003c/div>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>KQED’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/siliconvalleyunseen\">Silicon Valley Unseen\u003c/a> is a series of photo essays, original reporting and underreported histories that survey the tech capital’s overlooked communities and subcultures from a local perspective.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My earliest childhood memories revolve around an apartment building near downtown Mountain View, populated by immigrant Asian families and, for a time, my Mexican dad. I vividly recall its details: tight quarters, cockroaches scattering between tiles, a shared backyard and the overpowering aroma of mixed diasporas trying to cook their way back to some faraway homeland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>The most distinct sensory detail, though — one I’ve literally dreamt of as an adult — was the daily, charcoal-thick waft from the Persian market across the street, where Middle Eastern spices commingled with joojeh kabab and koobideh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rose Market is where we’d go for everything from bubblegum and Tahitian punch soda to fresh veggies and poultry. It was among the few places I was allowed to walk to, on my own or with my older brother. Though we moved out of those apartments in the late ’90s, my memory of that market has endured.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965454\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965454\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-12-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-12-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-12-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-12-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-12-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-12-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-12-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-12-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Middle Eastern spices and seasonings greet customers inside the newly renovated Rose International Market on El Camino Real in Mountain View. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Rose Market stood in that same location for decades. At the height of its popularity, Middle Eastern families would visit from all over the region. The market eventually expanded to nearby Saratoga, becoming Silicon Valley’s definitive outlet for Iranian foods and groceries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But over the years, as Silicon Valley underwent drastic redevelopment and a tech-induced real estate land grab, some smaller businesses clustered near Rose Market — including Clarke’s Burgers, Le’s Alterations, an auto shop and a liquor store — receded from the landscape. Clarke’s had been a no-frills neighborhood institution, and it was where my single dad would often take us to watch 49ers games. Prior to its closing in 2020, \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Clarkes-Charcoal-Broiler-Mountain-View-closes-75-15184803.php\">near the start of the pandemic\u003c/a>, it had been the oldest restaurant in all of Mountain View, and perhaps the most universally beloved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By then, Rose had also disappeared in Mountain View. From 2015 to 2019, as rents skyrocketed and trendier properties sprouted up nearby, the humble Iranian market closed its doors, making way for a ritzy mixed-use apartment complex. For nearly half a decade, there was no scent of Persian-style kebabs in Mountain View.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Due to public outcry, however, the developer \u003ca href=\"https://www.paloaltoonline.com/blogs/2019/02/14/rose-international-market-returns-to-mountain-view/\">signed long-term leases for a handful of small businesses\u003c/a>, including Rose, to remain on the ground floor once construction was complete. Through all of those back-and-forth negotiations, and a temporary relocation to Cupertino, Rose Market was one of the lucky ones, able to endure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965462\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965462\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-59-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-59-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-59-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-59-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-59-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-59-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-59-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-59-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rose International Market’s new look is drastically different from its humble beginnings in 1988. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 2019, Rose finally reopened at the new site. Its exterior is modernized, an extension of a sterile, swanky campus-like structure, similar to those of adjacent small businesses like Le’s Alterations, the Asian-owned dry cleaner from my childhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, Rose Market continues to supply a busy clientele with imported specialty products, like Persian pistachio ice cream sandwiches and an extensive selection of hard-to-find teas from abroad. Though unfamiliar in its updated appearance, it still delivers the same aromatic sensory overload of the old market, offering a soupçon of Iranian culture I’ve always associated with my South Bay upbringing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13965311\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/SVU.LogoBreak.computer.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/SVU.LogoBreak.computer.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/SVU.LogoBreak.computer-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/SVU.LogoBreak.computer-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area — and Silicon Valley, in particular — has been a hotbed for Iranian immigrants and refugees for over half a century. The initial wave of Persians \u003ca href=\"https://newsroom.ucla.edu/stories/mapping-the-iranian-diaspora-in-america\">mass migrated to the United States in 1979 as a result of the Islamic Revolution\u003c/a>, with the highest concentrations in Los Angeles and San Jose. From 1980 to 1988, during the Iran-Iraq War, even more Iranians left their homeland for California. Today, the state boasts the highest population of Iranians nationwide with over 200,000 estimated residents (as the \u003ca href=\"https://cids.sfsu.edu/background-center\">Center for Iranian Diaspora Studies reports\u003c/a>, no official census data exists for Iranian Americans).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965493\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965493\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-10-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1684\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-10-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-10-800x526.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-10-1020x671.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-10-160x105.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-10-768x505.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-10-1536x1010.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-10-2048x1347.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-10-1920x1263.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rose water for sale at Rose International Market in Mountain View. The region has been home to one of the nation’s largest Iranian populations for nearly half a century. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After leaving Iran, Saied Mehranfar cofounded Rose Market with his brothers in 1988. You can usually find him bustling around the market, delegating tasks and overseeing the business. His English is limited and his storytelling is sparse, but during a recent visit he gave me a tour around the shop, pointing out the different sections of fresh produce, imported beverages and the store’s upgraded kitchen. He then directed me to his nephew, Ramin, a second-generation Iranian American who helps run daily operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The developer came and bought up all this property piece by piece, and everything closed down for a few years,” Ramin said, recalling the period of time when the market’s future in Mountain View was uncertain. “[But] this place was always meant for us to come back.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Mountain View had the first Rose Market,” he continued, referring to the shop’s previous iteration in another part of Mountain View. “Then [we] got a bigger place, and then the one that everybody knows from over 35 years ago.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965460\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965460\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-40-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-40-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-40-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-40-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-40-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-40-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-40-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-40-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mohsen Amiri, right, smiles at Ramin Mehranfar, both employees at Rose International Market in Mountain View. Ramin’s uncle, Saied, is an original co-owner who sometimes appears at the market. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was one of those who grew up knowing Rose on Castro Street and Victor Way, when smells from the market wandered through my second-floor apartment’s bedroom window. (The view to the market has since been obstructed by a cookie-cutter development of homes in the adjacent lot, once a dirt field wonderland for kids like me.) Just as Rose offers a sense of connection to a lost homeland for Iranians and Middle Eastern immigrants, it simultaneously connects me to my own upbringing in pre-Googleplex Mountain View.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965453\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965453\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-6-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-6-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-6-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-6-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-6-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-6-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-6-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-6-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Middle Eastern stew at Rose International Market, a 37-year-old Iranian market, in Mountain View on September 23, 2024. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mohammad.earth/\">Mohammad Gorjestani\u003c/a> can relate. \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">An \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mohammad.earth/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Iranian born filmmaker\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, artist, and founder of production company and creative studio \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/evenodd.studio/?hl=en\">Even/Odd\u003c/a> in San Francisco, Gorjestani grew up in West San Jose immersed in Iranian traditions. After he and his parents arrived to the Bay Area from Iran in 1988, places like Rose Market became a destination.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It was a little far from The Gardens [a Section 8 apartment complex in San Jose where many Iranian families lived], \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">but we would pick up food often at places like Chelokebabi, Yas, or Rose Market and picnic at Shoreline,\u003c/span>” says Gorjestani. “That was a tradition.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a filmmaker who spent this past summer in Iran capturing the nation’s affinity for wrestling during the 2024 Olympics, Gorjestani is aware of the various complexities and nuances that surround Iran, its migrants and its cultural norms. While the slang and customs have morphed in Iran — a nation which Gorjestani admits is “like a black box to Americans,” \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">due its portrayal, restricted access, and heavy Western sanctions — Iranians in the diaspora have been more stuck in a time of the past.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965459\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965459\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-37-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-37-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-37-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-37-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-37-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-37-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-37-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IRANIANMARKET_GC-37-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ibrahim Almamori, a Rose International Market employee of over 30 years, makes Kabob Koubideh, in Mountain View on September 23, 2024. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Iran has evolved, but the people who immigrated here are still mimicking what they left behind, I think it’s a natural way of finding comfort for my parents’ generation especially” he told me over the phone while still overseas. “There’s a curtain drawn around Iran by the West. It’s very particular what is seen and shared. That’s why, even being there, it’s like being in a portal. You feel totally transported.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gorjestani reflected on his recent trip to Tehran, Iran’s metropolitan capital, and how it was filled with younger “new wave” efforts, such as craft coffee shops and eateries excited to offer pizzas and burgers. He sees the art and culinary scene in Tehran as eclectic, worldly, experimental — on par with other major cities in the world. In Northern Iran, known for its food and especially sour flavor profiles, Gorjestani experienced things he didn’t even know existed like “Chanar,” distinctly regional dessert shops focused on creating pomegranate-only concoctions of shaved ice, slushies and regional lavashak (“fruit roll-ups”) that he’s never seen. It’s not the Iran that his parents or former generations may have remembered or ever known.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There’s even a word commonly used (“sonnati”) for anything traditional. It’s not that traditional foods and customs are no longer revered; they’re just no longer the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">only\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> defining aspects of define Iran’s burgeoning multi-generational identity. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“When I was going out over there, people would ask, do you want to go to a sonnati — like a traditional place — or do you want to go to a contemporary place, like a fast food spot? I got asked that a lot by all the gracious hosts I had” he says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Gorjestani, Rose Market is more sonnati. It’s a reflection of a time left behind by a certain generation.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965492\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965492\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-55-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-55-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-55-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-55-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-55-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-55-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-55-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-55-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-55-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traditional Middle Eastern pastries are plentiful at Rose International Market. The shop offers a variety of Iranian sweets. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“These Iranian markets [in Silicon Valley] were new at the time,” says Gorjestani. “These places were [being opened by] immigrants in their twenties, thirties, maybe forties and fifties if you’re pushing it. They had this energy to create something for the diaspora here and for themselves to deal with being homesick. Then they get older, their businesses get older, and maybe their kids don’t want to run a family business or do their own thing. They’re not as connected to the homeland as their parents are, and things start to fade, assimilate, move on. It’s natural for the ebb and flow of any diaspora. But I’m so grateful for places like Rose Market who kept us connected to our Vatan [motherland]. ”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dinner at Rose Market might begin with fesenjan, a sweet pomegranate stew bathing thick, uneven chunks of chicken and mixed with ground walnut. When scooped on top of an order of cabbage rice, it smacks harder than just about any dish I’ve ever had. You can pair that with koofteh Tabrizi, a delectable meatball bigger — and meatier — than my balled up fist. The saffron and cinnamon mingle with fresh herbs, onions and prunes, while a massive walnut stuffed at its core awaits. Unlike the average American meatball, which usually functions as a sidekick to pasta, the Iranian koofteh is a meal unto itself. Served in its own juices, it needn’t be accompanied by much more than your appetite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But you’ll want to add more anyway: ghormeh sabzi (a zesty, lemony stew of kidney beans and tender beef), kalam polo (rice and cabbage fried to a golden, auburn hue), tabouli salad, tahdig (crisp, pan-burnt rice), and the showstopping varieties of kebab plated in a to-go box with a generous side of traditional Persian lavash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These items won’t just fill an empty stomach. They’ll bring you closer to enlightenment, reminding you of all things good and holy about our corporeal existence. In that sense, Rose Market is about timelessness, and perhaps that’s why it has lasted for nearly 40 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965494\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965494\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-25-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-25-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-25-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-25-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-25-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-25-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-25-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-25-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/20240923_IranianMarket_GC-25-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pistachios are a favorite at Rose International Market. In addition to fresh items and produce, the hot food counter at the back of the shop is a key attraction at the longstanding grocery store. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In Silicon Valley — hyper-forward thinking, constantly transmorphing — sonnati is necessary. Rose Market may be stuck on a different Iranian timeline, but it represents a more tender version of Silicon Valley, before the dot-com arms race seized this region’s image, and dictated who gets to live and eat here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I walk into Rose Market now — as an adult, father, and journalist — it teleports me to a quondam time and place that I can never let go of. These days, that’s the kind of nourishment I rarely get anywhere else.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13965311\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/SVU.LogoBreak.computer.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/SVU.LogoBreak.computer.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/SVU.LogoBreak.computer-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/SVU.LogoBreak.computer-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv dir=\"auto\">\u003cem>Rose International Market (801 W El Camino Real Suite B, Mountain View) is open daily for groceries from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. and hot food from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.\u003c/em>\u003c/div>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "This Hot Pot Restaurant Serves All-You-Can-Eat Wagyu Beef",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965236\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965236\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: A man chows down on a spread of wagyu beef and other hot pot items at a shabu shabu restaurant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Santa Clara’s Mikiya Wagyu Shabu House, unlimited quantities of wagyu beef are the main attraction. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m old enough to remember how Americans used to talk about wagyu beef like it was the most rarefied foodstuff in the world — the manna of the gods butchered from some miniscule number of Japanese cattle who’d spent their entire lives being pampered with \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSU5Iu9Z9qI\">massages and beer\u003c/a>. But at some point in the past decade, wagyu (and \u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/fake-kobe-wagyu-beef-japanese-steak\">pseudo-wagyu\u003c/a>) became \u003ci>the\u003c/i> number one signifier of bourgeois dining aspirations, to the point that we now have dumpling houses and fast-casual burger joints that churn through hundreds of pounds of the stuff each day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve mostly been agnostic on the trend — but not so much so that I was immune to the inherent appeal of an (\u003ca href=\"https://x.com/NYTIMESALLCAPS\">all caps\u003c/a>) ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT WAGYU BEEF HOT POT restaurant, especially one that stays open until 11 o’clock at night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which is how we found ourselves at Mikiya Wagyu Shabu House at 9:30 on a recent Friday, having had the foresight to put ourselves on Yelp’s remote online waiting list about two and a half hours before we arrived. (Apparently, this is how things are after the hype has already died down a bit. According to our server, four-hour wait times were routine just a few months ago.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, the Santa Clara shop is the only Bay Area outpost for a \u003ca href=\"https://chubbygroup.com/\">conglomerate of assorted high-end wagyu beef restaurants\u003c/a>, with locations in Las Vegas, Honolulu and all over Southern California, each \u003ca href=\"https://thexpot.com/\">new dining concept\u003c/a> swankier than the last.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Mikiya is \u003ci>pretty\u003c/i> swanky, starting with the massive, theatrically lit display case full of imported A5 Japanese wagyu beef roasts that greeted us at the front entrance. Inside, the overall aesthetic is something akin to a bustling cyberpunk night market: bright neon signs, moody red backlighting and vaguely pagoda-like design features. The dining room was packed with groups of youngish, professional-looking types, and, for what it’s worth, I don’t know if I saw a non-Asian person the entire time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Speaking as an Asian: We do \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13963093/supreme-crab-asian-cajun-ayce-buffet-crab-legs-redwood-city\">know our way around a buffet\u003c/a>. Even before the first tray of extravagantly marbled wagyu hits the table, you can tell that Mikiya is the kind of high-class Asian buffet that’s so ubiquitous in cities like Singapore and Taipei. The self-serve condiment, noodle and vegetable stations are immaculate — piles of chrysanthemum greens and pristine, unblemished Napa cabbage leaves refilled with such unflagging consistency that they never seemed to diminish. There’s an entire fridge full of pasteurized eggs so you can use the raw yolk as a “sauce” to pair with the sukiyaki broth. There’s a hot cauldron of saucy minced wagyu for you to ladle over rice — as many mini beef donburi as you have stomach space to eat. Cold appetizers like spicy clams and wasabi-spiked raw octopus were so tasty, I would have happily ordered them as a stand-alone at a nice, non-buffet restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A host of other fun touches feel similarly extravagant — the all-you-can-drink Assam milk tea dispenser, the freezer full of mini-cartons of Häagen-Dazs (i.e. the Rolls Royce of buffet ice cream).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965238\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965238\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: The exterior of a restaurant at night. Inside, a display case of meat is lit up.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mikiya epitomizes swanky Asian buffet culture. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All this, and we haven’t even gotten to the beef! Everything except alcohol is included with the price of admission, but deciding on which specific \u003ci>tier \u003c/i>of all-you-can-eat hot pot experience you want can still be confusing, as there are “silver,” “gold” and “diamond” options that vary in price from $55 to $98 in person, and mostly differ in terms of the grade of wagyu offered and a few other super-premium items.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trust me when I say that the silver tier is already plenty premium. You start the meal by choosing two soup bases for the split pot, and we opted for the most classic options: the slightly sweet, soy sauce–based sukiyaki broth (my favorite) and a clear shabu shabu broth — the most wholesome choice for hot pot eaters whose favorite part of the meal is drinking the soup at the end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13963832,arts_13963093,arts_13960432']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Then comes the parade of meats. Tray after tray of wagyu brisket, shoulder and ribeye sliced nearly paper-thin for you to dip into the hot broth for just a few seconds, then into your sauce of choice: just raw egg yolk for richness if you want to eat it sukiyaki style, or maybe a nutty sesame dressing or a bracing ponzu spiked with garlic and chilies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, the hallmark of high-quality wagyu beef is its gorgeously fatty white marbling, which is the source of the meat’s rich flavor as well as its tenderness: The fat melts at a much lower temperature than most American beef fat, so you barely need to chew it. At the $55 tier, we were eating Australian wagyu beef, which was less sumptuously marbled than the higher-grade A5 Japanese wagyu available at the other price points, and already, each slice was unspeakably soft and buttery. (I would have argued that the extra marbling of the A5 wouldn’t make much difference at all when eaten in hot pot, but then we received one tray of it by accident — and oh, it \u003ci>did\u003c/i>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The meal also came with an equally luxurious tray of raw seafood to cook in the hot pot broth (scallops! crab legs! abalone!) and our choice of special stand-alone items — a wagyu marrow bone and seared-wagyu nigiri, both delicious but somewhat superfluous given the amount of beef we were already consuming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is a slightly grating tech-y aspect to Mikiya, from the \u003ca href=\"https://chubbyclub.com/\">NFT-based memberships\u003c/a> (?!) to the unfailingly cheerful AI bot that responds to literally every single Yelp review. But once we sat down for our meal in person, the servers were all so friendly and attentive, and the whole dining experience was seamless and comfortable. Though I don’t know if I’m a full-on wagyu convert yet, I saw that Mikiya also sells an annual (non-NFT) membership that offers discounted rates for $28 a year. And I really, really thought about it. Honestly, I’m still thinking about it.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mikiyanorthcalifornia/\">Mikiya Wagyu Shabu House\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Monday–Thursday 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m.–11 p.m. and Sunday 11 a.m.–10 p.m. at 3590 Homestead Rd. in Santa Clara. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965236\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965236\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: A man chows down on a spread of wagyu beef and other hot pot items at a shabu shabu restaurant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Santa Clara’s Mikiya Wagyu Shabu House, unlimited quantities of wagyu beef are the main attraction. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m old enough to remember how Americans used to talk about wagyu beef like it was the most rarefied foodstuff in the world — the manna of the gods butchered from some miniscule number of Japanese cattle who’d spent their entire lives being pampered with \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSU5Iu9Z9qI\">massages and beer\u003c/a>. But at some point in the past decade, wagyu (and \u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/fake-kobe-wagyu-beef-japanese-steak\">pseudo-wagyu\u003c/a>) became \u003ci>the\u003c/i> number one signifier of bourgeois dining aspirations, to the point that we now have dumpling houses and fast-casual burger joints that churn through hundreds of pounds of the stuff each day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve mostly been agnostic on the trend — but not so much so that I was immune to the inherent appeal of an (\u003ca href=\"https://x.com/NYTIMESALLCAPS\">all caps\u003c/a>) ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT WAGYU BEEF HOT POT restaurant, especially one that stays open until 11 o’clock at night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which is how we found ourselves at Mikiya Wagyu Shabu House at 9:30 on a recent Friday, having had the foresight to put ourselves on Yelp’s remote online waiting list about two and a half hours before we arrived. (Apparently, this is how things are after the hype has already died down a bit. According to our server, four-hour wait times were routine just a few months ago.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, the Santa Clara shop is the only Bay Area outpost for a \u003ca href=\"https://chubbygroup.com/\">conglomerate of assorted high-end wagyu beef restaurants\u003c/a>, with locations in Las Vegas, Honolulu and all over Southern California, each \u003ca href=\"https://thexpot.com/\">new dining concept\u003c/a> swankier than the last.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Mikiya is \u003ci>pretty\u003c/i> swanky, starting with the massive, theatrically lit display case full of imported A5 Japanese wagyu beef roasts that greeted us at the front entrance. Inside, the overall aesthetic is something akin to a bustling cyberpunk night market: bright neon signs, moody red backlighting and vaguely pagoda-like design features. The dining room was packed with groups of youngish, professional-looking types, and, for what it’s worth, I don’t know if I saw a non-Asian person the entire time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Speaking as an Asian: We do \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13963093/supreme-crab-asian-cajun-ayce-buffet-crab-legs-redwood-city\">know our way around a buffet\u003c/a>. Even before the first tray of extravagantly marbled wagyu hits the table, you can tell that Mikiya is the kind of high-class Asian buffet that’s so ubiquitous in cities like Singapore and Taipei. The self-serve condiment, noodle and vegetable stations are immaculate — piles of chrysanthemum greens and pristine, unblemished Napa cabbage leaves refilled with such unflagging consistency that they never seemed to diminish. There’s an entire fridge full of pasteurized eggs so you can use the raw yolk as a “sauce” to pair with the sukiyaki broth. There’s a hot cauldron of saucy minced wagyu for you to ladle over rice — as many mini beef donburi as you have stomach space to eat. Cold appetizers like spicy clams and wasabi-spiked raw octopus were so tasty, I would have happily ordered them as a stand-alone at a nice, non-buffet restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A host of other fun touches feel similarly extravagant — the all-you-can-drink Assam milk tea dispenser, the freezer full of mini-cartons of Häagen-Dazs (i.e. the Rolls Royce of buffet ice cream).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13965238\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13965238\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: The exterior of a restaurant at night. Inside, a display case of meat is lit up.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/mikiya-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mikiya epitomizes swanky Asian buffet culture. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All this, and we haven’t even gotten to the beef! Everything except alcohol is included with the price of admission, but deciding on which specific \u003ci>tier \u003c/i>of all-you-can-eat hot pot experience you want can still be confusing, as there are “silver,” “gold” and “diamond” options that vary in price from $55 to $98 in person, and mostly differ in terms of the grade of wagyu offered and a few other super-premium items.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trust me when I say that the silver tier is already plenty premium. You start the meal by choosing two soup bases for the split pot, and we opted for the most classic options: the slightly sweet, soy sauce–based sukiyaki broth (my favorite) and a clear shabu shabu broth — the most wholesome choice for hot pot eaters whose favorite part of the meal is drinking the soup at the end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Then comes the parade of meats. Tray after tray of wagyu brisket, shoulder and ribeye sliced nearly paper-thin for you to dip into the hot broth for just a few seconds, then into your sauce of choice: just raw egg yolk for richness if you want to eat it sukiyaki style, or maybe a nutty sesame dressing or a bracing ponzu spiked with garlic and chilies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, the hallmark of high-quality wagyu beef is its gorgeously fatty white marbling, which is the source of the meat’s rich flavor as well as its tenderness: The fat melts at a much lower temperature than most American beef fat, so you barely need to chew it. At the $55 tier, we were eating Australian wagyu beef, which was less sumptuously marbled than the higher-grade A5 Japanese wagyu available at the other price points, and already, each slice was unspeakably soft and buttery. (I would have argued that the extra marbling of the A5 wouldn’t make much difference at all when eaten in hot pot, but then we received one tray of it by accident — and oh, it \u003ci>did\u003c/i>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The meal also came with an equally luxurious tray of raw seafood to cook in the hot pot broth (scallops! crab legs! abalone!) and our choice of special stand-alone items — a wagyu marrow bone and seared-wagyu nigiri, both delicious but somewhat superfluous given the amount of beef we were already consuming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is a slightly grating tech-y aspect to Mikiya, from the \u003ca href=\"https://chubbyclub.com/\">NFT-based memberships\u003c/a> (?!) to the unfailingly cheerful AI bot that responds to literally every single Yelp review. But once we sat down for our meal in person, the servers were all so friendly and attentive, and the whole dining experience was seamless and comfortable. Though I don’t know if I’m a full-on wagyu convert yet, I saw that Mikiya also sells an annual (non-NFT) membership that offers discounted rates for $28 a year. And I really, really thought about it. Honestly, I’m still thinking about it.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mikiyanorthcalifornia/\">Mikiya Wagyu Shabu House\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Monday–Thursday 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m.–11 p.m. and Sunday 11 a.m.–10 p.m. at 3590 Homestead Rd. in Santa Clara. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>A who’s who of South Asian artists, writers, journalists, filmmakers and intellectuals will soon arrive in the Bay Area for a weekend of conversations, art and poetry. The \u003ca href=\"https://www.salafestival.org/\">South Asian Literature and Art Festival\u003c/a> gets underway at Stanford University Sept. 28–29 with a theme of “Plurality in Community.” That means the festival won’t shy away from complex topics such as caste, class, gender and borders “to understand,” as the event proclaims, “how individuality and collectivity can coexist and collide.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year’s keynote speakers include filmmaker Imtiaz Ali, who directed some of India’s most popular romantic films of the 2000s and 2010s. He made a comeback this year with the Netflix biopic \u003cem>Amar Singh Chankila\u003c/em>, about the slain Punjabi singer whose murder remains unsolved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pakistani artist and professor Salima Hashmi will speak about her decades of efforts to unearth the work of overlooked female artists. Indian Parliament member and author Dr. Shashi Tharoor and Booker Prize-nominated Sri Lankan novelist Shehan Karunatilaka will also give keynote addresses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The weekend also includes panels on a wide range of topics such as “South Asian Voice in an American Newsroom” (which features the Alameda-based host of NPR’s \u003cem>Here and Now\u003c/em>, Deepa Fernandes), culinary panels such as “Tapestry of Taste” and “Blow Cold Be Cool: Ice Cream Panel,” and philosophical and spiritual discussions such as “Being Human: The Inner and Outer Journey.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Book signings, poetry open mics and art exhibitions will punctuate the 22 discussions planned for the weekend, organized by Art Forum SF and the Stanford Center for South Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Here in the Bay Area, South Asians are definitely seen as the tech or the math people,” Ambika Sahay, executive director at Art Forum SF, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13935563/sala-festival-bay-area-south-asian-authors-artists\">told KQED\u003c/a> last year. “We wanted to showcase through the SALA Festival that culture, art and literature is also very viable. And there is space for that within the South Asian community — and that South Asian community is doing a lot.”\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>A who’s who of South Asian artists, writers, journalists, filmmakers and intellectuals will soon arrive in the Bay Area for a weekend of conversations, art and poetry. The \u003ca href=\"https://www.salafestival.org/\">South Asian Literature and Art Festival\u003c/a> gets underway at Stanford University Sept. 28–29 with a theme of “Plurality in Community.” That means the festival won’t shy away from complex topics such as caste, class, gender and borders “to understand,” as the event proclaims, “how individuality and collectivity can coexist and collide.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year’s keynote speakers include filmmaker Imtiaz Ali, who directed some of India’s most popular romantic films of the 2000s and 2010s. He made a comeback this year with the Netflix biopic \u003cem>Amar Singh Chankila\u003c/em>, about the slain Punjabi singer whose murder remains unsolved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pakistani artist and professor Salima Hashmi will speak about her decades of efforts to unearth the work of overlooked female artists. Indian Parliament member and author Dr. Shashi Tharoor and Booker Prize-nominated Sri Lankan novelist Shehan Karunatilaka will also give keynote addresses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The weekend also includes panels on a wide range of topics such as “South Asian Voice in an American Newsroom” (which features the Alameda-based host of NPR’s \u003cem>Here and Now\u003c/em>, Deepa Fernandes), culinary panels such as “Tapestry of Taste” and “Blow Cold Be Cool: Ice Cream Panel,” and philosophical and spiritual discussions such as “Being Human: The Inner and Outer Journey.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Book signings, poetry open mics and art exhibitions will punctuate the 22 discussions planned for the weekend, organized by Art Forum SF and the Stanford Center for South Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Maybe because most of us come from somewhere else, Americans just love replicas of foreign places — William Randolph Hearst’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13886781/californias-trailblazing-female-architect-built-lavishly-lived-simply\">faux European castle\u003c/a> in San Simeon, Calif.; Paris Las Vegas with its half-size Eiffel Tower and mini Louvre; or the mock Alpine village you find in, of all places, Helen, Ga. Creating a giddy atmosphere that Umberto Eco dubbed “hyperreality,” such crazily ambitious simulacra fill nearly everyone with childish delight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This includes \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2011/05/19/136142322/book-of-mormon-creators-on-their-broadway-smash\">Trey Parker and Matt Stone\u003c/a> of \u003cem>South Park\u003c/em> and \u003cem>The\u003c/em> \u003cem>Book of Mormon\u003c/em> fame. Although notorious for their cynical humor, both harbor a profound affection for one of the places they adored as kids: Casa Bonita, a 50,000 square foot attraction in a Lakewood, Colo., strip mall that has been dubbed the Disneyland of Mexican restaurants. It’s an Anglo businessman’s fantastical riff on an old Mexican village, one decked out with Old West outlaws, volcanoes, cliff divers and even a gorilla that runs through caverns studded with stalactites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13960040']More than half a century after opening in 1974 — complete with TV ads featuring Ricardo Montalban! — this once-spectacular crowd-puller had fallen on such desperate times that it was doomed to close. Then it was bought out of bankruptcy “as is” by Stone and Parker, who vowed to save the beloved Colorado landmark and return it to its former glory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their battle to do so is the subject of the enjoyable new documentary \u003cem>¡Casa Bonita, Mi Amor!\u003c/em> Directed by Arthur Bradford and produced by MTV Documentary Films, the movie’s a treat, weaving together great archival footage, excerpts from \u003cem>South Park\u003c/em> and Elvis’ movie \u003cem>Fun in Acapulco\u003c/em>, plus countless scenes of Parker and Stone’s amused horror when they hear the latest reason why their labor of love is becoming a money-pit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4TkkS7xePY\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a zippy capsule history of Casa Bonita, with its Pepto-Bismol-pink facade and blue fountain out front, the movie returns to the present to show everything it takes to recreate a mecca whose true meaning lay in the feelings it once induced. Because the original Casa Bonita was legendary for lousy food, they bring on an executive chef, Dana Rodriguez, who’s been nominated for James Beard Awards. She takes Parker to Oaxaca so he can soak up the atmosphere and get inspired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet wondrous inspiration bumps into un-wondrous reality. Turns out that their new property is a dilapidated death trap in which everything — electricity, plumbing, air conditioning — must be redone. A renovation originally budgeted at $6 million suddenly balloons to a new estimate of $20 million plus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13964208']Now, as \u003cem>¡Casa Bonita Mi Amor!\u003c/em> chronicles the high price of nostalgia, it also offers an offhand glimpse at one of pop culture’s signature creative teams. It doesn’t take long to spot the differences between the two longtime friends — Parker is clearly the dreamy, creative one; Stone the shrewd whetstone on which he sharpens his ideas. What you may find surprising is the secret sentimentality of guys whose comedy takes such pride in finding nothing sacred. Parker, in particular, betrays a sweetness in his romantic attachment to the innocent pleasures of childhood. He’s also a perfectionist. We see his artistic process, fussing over and tweaking every creative detail of the project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As their crew desperately races to have everything perfect by opening day — spending even more millions along the way — it becomes clear that Parker and Stone are chasing a ghost or maybe a paradox. The original Casa Bonita was a 1970s inauthentic version of 19th-century Mexico, but to recapture its magic this new version can’t be the same Casa Bonita that Parker remembers so fondly. Just as Indiana Jones’ movies had to use top-drawer talent to emulate cheap, old movie serials, so their restaurant has to meet today’s expectations — tastier food, sharper entertainment — or visitors won’t find it as thrilling as the original. To feel the same, it has to be different.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time Casa Bonita finally reopens — there is a happy ending — Parker and Stone have done something that could hardly be more quintessentially American: They’ve spent a fortune to make a copy of a Mexican-themed restaurant that’s actually better than the original.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>‘¡Casa Bonita, Mi Amor!’ opens in the Bay Area on Sept. 17, 2024.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Maybe because most of us come from somewhere else, Americans just love replicas of foreign places — William Randolph Hearst’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13886781/californias-trailblazing-female-architect-built-lavishly-lived-simply\">faux European castle\u003c/a> in San Simeon, Calif.; Paris Las Vegas with its half-size Eiffel Tower and mini Louvre; or the mock Alpine village you find in, of all places, Helen, Ga. Creating a giddy atmosphere that Umberto Eco dubbed “hyperreality,” such crazily ambitious simulacra fill nearly everyone with childish delight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This includes \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2011/05/19/136142322/book-of-mormon-creators-on-their-broadway-smash\">Trey Parker and Matt Stone\u003c/a> of \u003cem>South Park\u003c/em> and \u003cem>The\u003c/em> \u003cem>Book of Mormon\u003c/em> fame. Although notorious for their cynical humor, both harbor a profound affection for one of the places they adored as kids: Casa Bonita, a 50,000 square foot attraction in a Lakewood, Colo., strip mall that has been dubbed the Disneyland of Mexican restaurants. It’s an Anglo businessman’s fantastical riff on an old Mexican village, one decked out with Old West outlaws, volcanoes, cliff divers and even a gorilla that runs through caverns studded with stalactites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a zippy capsule history of Casa Bonita, with its Pepto-Bismol-pink facade and blue fountain out front, the movie returns to the present to show everything it takes to recreate a mecca whose true meaning lay in the feelings it once induced. Because the original Casa Bonita was legendary for lousy food, they bring on an executive chef, Dana Rodriguez, who’s been nominated for James Beard Awards. She takes Parker to Oaxaca so he can soak up the atmosphere and get inspired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet wondrous inspiration bumps into un-wondrous reality. Turns out that their new property is a dilapidated death trap in which everything — electricity, plumbing, air conditioning — must be redone. A renovation originally budgeted at $6 million suddenly balloons to a new estimate of $20 million plus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Now, as \u003cem>¡Casa Bonita Mi Amor!\u003c/em> chronicles the high price of nostalgia, it also offers an offhand glimpse at one of pop culture’s signature creative teams. It doesn’t take long to spot the differences between the two longtime friends — Parker is clearly the dreamy, creative one; Stone the shrewd whetstone on which he sharpens his ideas. What you may find surprising is the secret sentimentality of guys whose comedy takes such pride in finding nothing sacred. Parker, in particular, betrays a sweetness in his romantic attachment to the innocent pleasures of childhood. He’s also a perfectionist. We see his artistic process, fussing over and tweaking every creative detail of the project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As their crew desperately races to have everything perfect by opening day — spending even more millions along the way — it becomes clear that Parker and Stone are chasing a ghost or maybe a paradox. The original Casa Bonita was a 1970s inauthentic version of 19th-century Mexico, but to recapture its magic this new version can’t be the same Casa Bonita that Parker remembers so fondly. Just as Indiana Jones’ movies had to use top-drawer talent to emulate cheap, old movie serials, so their restaurant has to meet today’s expectations — tastier food, sharper entertainment — or visitors won’t find it as thrilling as the original. To feel the same, it has to be different.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time Casa Bonita finally reopens — there is a happy ending — Parker and Stone have done something that could hardly be more quintessentially American: They’ve spent a fortune to make a copy of a Mexican-themed restaurant that’s actually better than the original.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>‘¡Casa Bonita, Mi Amor!’ opens in the Bay Area on Sept. 17, 2024.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "bay-area-african-restaurant-week-nigerian-ethiopian-jollof-oakland",
"title": "The Bay’s First African Restaurant Week Celebrates the Whole Continent",
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"content": "\u003cp>The Bay Area is home to decades-old \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13905230/zeni-ethiopian-restaurant-san-jose\">kitfo houses\u003c/a>, spirited \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13960580/jollof-festival-oakland-west-african-food-competition-nigerian-sierra-leone\">jollof rivalries\u003c/a> and innovative \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13938506/cafe-colucci-pop-up-oakland-ethiopian-ghanaian-selasie-dotse\">Ghanaian-Ethiopian fine dining mashups\u003c/a>. But it has never had an entire week dedicated to celebrating the African continent’s diverse and varied cuisines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until now, that is. Today, the first ever \u003ca href=\"https://africanrestaurantweek.com/bayarea/\">Bay Area African Restaurant Week\u003c/a> kicks off with a slew of prix-fixe meal deals and pop-up events, mostly spread across the East Bay and San Francisco. Organizers hope the ten-day promotion, which runs from Sept. 12–22, will give a boost to some of the region’s up-and-coming African and Afro-Caribbean food businesses — and that it will be the start of a rich and flavor-packed annual tradition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13960580']\u003c/span>Co-organizer Kemi Tijaniqudus of the Nigerian food truck \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jollofkitchen/\">Jollof Kitchen\u003c/a> says she first started thinking about organizing some kind of African food festival as early as 2015. Her idea, she says, was to bring greater visibility to cuisines from across the continent — “west, east, north, south” — beyond the handful of African dishes, like jollof rice and the \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/the-curious-history-of-the-eritrean-and-ethiopian-veggie-combo-2-1/\">Ethiopian veggie combo\u003c/a>, that have already gained mainstream traction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People know Ethiopian food and West African food, but you hardly hear people talk about Zimbabwe, South Africa or Rwanda,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For several years, though, the everyday demands of operating a food truck business didn’t leave Tijaniqudus with enough bandwidth to put together an event on the scale and scope she was imagining. Then she heard about \u003ca href=\"https://africanrestaurantweek.com/\">African Restaurant Week\u003c/a>, a national organization based in New York that has been hosting weeklong African restaurant promotions in cities across the country \u003ca href=\"https://www.prlog.org/12215599-nyc-celebrates-its-first-ever-african-restaurant-week-2013.html\">since 2013\u003c/a>. Why not pool resources with a group that was already doing the work to highlight African food and culture, and had experience with the logistics of putting a large-scale event like this together? So, Tijaniqudus reached out and initiated a collaboration with African Restaurant Week founder Akin Akinsanya.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The resulting Bay Area African Restaurant Week is a cross between a traditional restaurant week promotion and the kind of grand, one-day festival that Tijaniqudus had initially envisioned. As with any other restaurant week, the 25 African restaurants who have currently signed up to participate will offer special discounted meal deals over the course of those ten days. But the event will also be bookended with big, audacious kickoff and closing parties that spotlight food trucks, caterers and other smaller vendors that don’t have a regular brick-and-mortar location. Like other African Restaurant Week events across the country, the Bay Area iteration will also showcase cuisines from across the African diaspora, particularly the Afro-Caribbean islands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13954275\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13954275\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/03/swahili-spot-beef-bowl.jpg\" alt=\"Beef curry bowl loaded with beans and greens.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/03/swahili-spot-beef-bowl.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/03/swahili-spot-beef-bowl-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/03/swahili-spot-beef-bowl-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/03/swahili-spot-beef-bowl-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/03/swahili-spot-beef-bowl-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/03/swahili-spot-beef-bowl-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/03/swahili-spot-beef-bowl-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Tanzanian beef curry bowl at Oakland’s Swahili Spot, one of the local restaurants participating in African Restaurant Week. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/kick-off-bay-area-african-restaurant-week-2024-tickets-1004733172967?aff=oddtdtcreator\">Sept. 13 kickoff event\u003c/a> at Oakland’s Parliament nightclub, for instance, will feature Ghanaian jollof from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jaybabas_kitchen/\">JayBaba’s Kitchen\u003c/a>, Zimbabwean sadza (cornmeal mash) served with sardines or peanut butter chicken from \u003ca href=\"https://nendoro.co/pages/vumba-mts-kitchen-menu?srsltid=AfmBOop-PsKc0ODvL7d101ykUHRrcIKFse4G-vqP8-cLrlylMXmqH2vu\">Vumba Mts Kitchen\u003c/a>, Gambian food from San Jose-based Tutti Fruti Kitchen and Nigerian food from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thegrubrepublic_/?hl=en\">The Grub Republic\u003c/a> — plus music from a lineup of local AfroBeats DJs. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C_uOK2xM79i/?img_index=1\">Another pop-up\u003c/a>, held on Sept. 14 at Oakland’s Zanzi dance club, will focus on Nigeria’s street food–style grilled meats known as suya.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13960933,arts_13954267']\u003c/span>Meanwhile, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/bay-area-african-restaurant-week-festival-2024-tickets-944469241927?aff=oddtdtcreator\">Sept. 22 close-out event\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fortheculture701/?hl=en\">For the Culture\u003c/a> will be even larger in scale, with restaurants like Swahili Spot (the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13954267/tanzanian-restaurant-swahili-spot-west-oakland-curry\">Bay Area’s only Tanzanian restaurant\u003c/a>) and Tijaniqudus’ own \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13960580/jollof-festival-oakland-west-african-food-competition-nigerian-sierra-leone\">jollof championship–winning truck\u003c/a>, Jollof Kitchen, joining the festivities, along with a cooking competition for home cooks, a retail marketplace, and an array of cultural performances.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://africanrestaurantweek.com/bayarea/\">Most of the restaurants participating in the ten-day promotion\u003c/a> will offer a 10% discount to customers who mention African Restaurant Week. That includes high-profile spots like \u003ca href=\"https://azizasf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a>, the upscale Moroccan restaurant in San Francisco’s Outer Richmond neighborhood, as well as relative newcomers like \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13936332/tchaka-haitian-restaurant-oakland\">T’Chaka\u003c/a>, the Haitian standout in Old Oakland. A few, like Oakland’s Trinidadian hot spot, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/cocobreezeco/?hl=en\">Cocobreeze\u003c/a>, will also offer special combo meals and a prix-fixe deal — $65 for a four-course meal for two. And Golden Safari, a popular Nigerian restaurant in Hayward, will give away hand-crafted commemorative Nigerian plateware as a souvenir.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13936339\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13936339\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_griot.jpg\" alt=\"Fried pork, rice, plantains and pikliz (pickled cabbage and carrots) on a dark blue plate.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1375\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_griot.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_griot-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_griot-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_griot-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_griot-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_griot-1536x1056.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_griot-1920x1320.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Griot, a citrus-marinated fried pork dish, is one of the Haitian specialties served at T’chaka in Old Oakland. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13964189\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13964189\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Oxtails-and-Curry-Goat-Best-of-Both-Worlds-Combo.jpg\" alt=\"Takeout container with curry goat, braised oxtails, plantains, and rice and peas.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1250\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Oxtails-and-Curry-Goat-Best-of-Both-Worlds-Combo.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Oxtails-and-Curry-Goat-Best-of-Both-Worlds-Combo-800x500.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Oxtails-and-Curry-Goat-Best-of-Both-Worlds-Combo-1020x638.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Oxtails-and-Curry-Goat-Best-of-Both-Worlds-Combo-160x100.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Oxtails-and-Curry-Goat-Best-of-Both-Worlds-Combo-768x480.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Oxtails-and-Curry-Goat-Best-of-Both-Worlds-Combo-1536x960.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Oxtails-and-Curry-Goat-Best-of-Both-Worlds-Combo-1920x1200.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A “Best of Both Worlds” combo plate with oxtails and curry goat — one of Cocobreeze’s African Restaurant Week specials. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cocobreeze)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In many ways, the very existence of Bay Area African Restaurant Week is a testament to how much more mainstream exposure the cuisines of the African diaspora have achieved over the past several years. An event of this scale would have been almost inconceivable in the Bay Area even a decade ago, when very few of these cuisines had received much local recognition or coverage outside of the immigrant communities themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tijaniqudus says that as much as she has always loved sharing her own Nigerian culture and food, she hopes this restaurant week will help take the Bay Area’s African food scene to the next level.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People know jollof, jollof, jollof,” she says. “We want people to taste all of the African foods.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Bay Area African Restaurant Week will run from Sept. 12–22. An updated (and growing) list of participating restaurants is available on the \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://africanrestaurantweek.com/bayarea/\">\u003ci>African Restaurant Week website\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. The \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/kick-off-bay-area-african-restaurant-week-2024-tickets-1004733172967?aff=oddtdtcreator\">\u003ci>kickoff party\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will be held on Friday, Sept. 13 from 6–10 p.m. at Parliament (811 Washington St., Oakland). The \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/bay-area-african-restaurant-week-festival-2024-tickets-944469241927?aff=oddtdtcreator\">\u003ci>closing festival\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> at For the Culture (701 Clay St., Oakland) will be held on Sunday, Sept. 22 from noon–7 p.m. Tickets for both events are currently free when reserved in advance; food and beverages will be sold a la carte.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "The First Bay Area African Restaurant Week Celebrates the Whole Continent | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The Bay Area is home to decades-old \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13905230/zeni-ethiopian-restaurant-san-jose\">kitfo houses\u003c/a>, spirited \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13960580/jollof-festival-oakland-west-african-food-competition-nigerian-sierra-leone\">jollof rivalries\u003c/a> and innovative \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13938506/cafe-colucci-pop-up-oakland-ethiopian-ghanaian-selasie-dotse\">Ghanaian-Ethiopian fine dining mashups\u003c/a>. But it has never had an entire week dedicated to celebrating the African continent’s diverse and varied cuisines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until now, that is. Today, the first ever \u003ca href=\"https://africanrestaurantweek.com/bayarea/\">Bay Area African Restaurant Week\u003c/a> kicks off with a slew of prix-fixe meal deals and pop-up events, mostly spread across the East Bay and San Francisco. Organizers hope the ten-day promotion, which runs from Sept. 12–22, will give a boost to some of the region’s up-and-coming African and Afro-Caribbean food businesses — and that it will be the start of a rich and flavor-packed annual tradition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Co-organizer Kemi Tijaniqudus of the Nigerian food truck \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jollofkitchen/\">Jollof Kitchen\u003c/a> says she first started thinking about organizing some kind of African food festival as early as 2015. Her idea, she says, was to bring greater visibility to cuisines from across the continent — “west, east, north, south” — beyond the handful of African dishes, like jollof rice and the \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/the-curious-history-of-the-eritrean-and-ethiopian-veggie-combo-2-1/\">Ethiopian veggie combo\u003c/a>, that have already gained mainstream traction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People know Ethiopian food and West African food, but you hardly hear people talk about Zimbabwe, South Africa or Rwanda,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For several years, though, the everyday demands of operating a food truck business didn’t leave Tijaniqudus with enough bandwidth to put together an event on the scale and scope she was imagining. Then she heard about \u003ca href=\"https://africanrestaurantweek.com/\">African Restaurant Week\u003c/a>, a national organization based in New York that has been hosting weeklong African restaurant promotions in cities across the country \u003ca href=\"https://www.prlog.org/12215599-nyc-celebrates-its-first-ever-african-restaurant-week-2013.html\">since 2013\u003c/a>. Why not pool resources with a group that was already doing the work to highlight African food and culture, and had experience with the logistics of putting a large-scale event like this together? So, Tijaniqudus reached out and initiated a collaboration with African Restaurant Week founder Akin Akinsanya.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The resulting Bay Area African Restaurant Week is a cross between a traditional restaurant week promotion and the kind of grand, one-day festival that Tijaniqudus had initially envisioned. As with any other restaurant week, the 25 African restaurants who have currently signed up to participate will offer special discounted meal deals over the course of those ten days. But the event will also be bookended with big, audacious kickoff and closing parties that spotlight food trucks, caterers and other smaller vendors that don’t have a regular brick-and-mortar location. Like other African Restaurant Week events across the country, the Bay Area iteration will also showcase cuisines from across the African diaspora, particularly the Afro-Caribbean islands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13954275\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13954275\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/03/swahili-spot-beef-bowl.jpg\" alt=\"Beef curry bowl loaded with beans and greens.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/03/swahili-spot-beef-bowl.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/03/swahili-spot-beef-bowl-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/03/swahili-spot-beef-bowl-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/03/swahili-spot-beef-bowl-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/03/swahili-spot-beef-bowl-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/03/swahili-spot-beef-bowl-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/03/swahili-spot-beef-bowl-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Tanzanian beef curry bowl at Oakland’s Swahili Spot, one of the local restaurants participating in African Restaurant Week. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/kick-off-bay-area-african-restaurant-week-2024-tickets-1004733172967?aff=oddtdtcreator\">Sept. 13 kickoff event\u003c/a> at Oakland’s Parliament nightclub, for instance, will feature Ghanaian jollof from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jaybabas_kitchen/\">JayBaba’s Kitchen\u003c/a>, Zimbabwean sadza (cornmeal mash) served with sardines or peanut butter chicken from \u003ca href=\"https://nendoro.co/pages/vumba-mts-kitchen-menu?srsltid=AfmBOop-PsKc0ODvL7d101ykUHRrcIKFse4G-vqP8-cLrlylMXmqH2vu\">Vumba Mts Kitchen\u003c/a>, Gambian food from San Jose-based Tutti Fruti Kitchen and Nigerian food from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thegrubrepublic_/?hl=en\">The Grub Republic\u003c/a> — plus music from a lineup of local AfroBeats DJs. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C_uOK2xM79i/?img_index=1\">Another pop-up\u003c/a>, held on Sept. 14 at Oakland’s Zanzi dance club, will focus on Nigeria’s street food–style grilled meats known as suya.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Meanwhile, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/bay-area-african-restaurant-week-festival-2024-tickets-944469241927?aff=oddtdtcreator\">Sept. 22 close-out event\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fortheculture701/?hl=en\">For the Culture\u003c/a> will be even larger in scale, with restaurants like Swahili Spot (the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13954267/tanzanian-restaurant-swahili-spot-west-oakland-curry\">Bay Area’s only Tanzanian restaurant\u003c/a>) and Tijaniqudus’ own \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13960580/jollof-festival-oakland-west-african-food-competition-nigerian-sierra-leone\">jollof championship–winning truck\u003c/a>, Jollof Kitchen, joining the festivities, along with a cooking competition for home cooks, a retail marketplace, and an array of cultural performances.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://africanrestaurantweek.com/bayarea/\">Most of the restaurants participating in the ten-day promotion\u003c/a> will offer a 10% discount to customers who mention African Restaurant Week. That includes high-profile spots like \u003ca href=\"https://azizasf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a>, the upscale Moroccan restaurant in San Francisco’s Outer Richmond neighborhood, as well as relative newcomers like \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13936332/tchaka-haitian-restaurant-oakland\">T’Chaka\u003c/a>, the Haitian standout in Old Oakland. A few, like Oakland’s Trinidadian hot spot, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/cocobreezeco/?hl=en\">Cocobreeze\u003c/a>, will also offer special combo meals and a prix-fixe deal — $65 for a four-course meal for two. And Golden Safari, a popular Nigerian restaurant in Hayward, will give away hand-crafted commemorative Nigerian plateware as a souvenir.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13936339\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13936339\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_griot.jpg\" alt=\"Fried pork, rice, plantains and pikliz (pickled cabbage and carrots) on a dark blue plate.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1375\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_griot.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_griot-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_griot-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_griot-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_griot-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_griot-1536x1056.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_griot-1920x1320.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Griot, a citrus-marinated fried pork dish, is one of the Haitian specialties served at T’chaka in Old Oakland. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13964189\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13964189\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Oxtails-and-Curry-Goat-Best-of-Both-Worlds-Combo.jpg\" alt=\"Takeout container with curry goat, braised oxtails, plantains, and rice and peas.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1250\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Oxtails-and-Curry-Goat-Best-of-Both-Worlds-Combo.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Oxtails-and-Curry-Goat-Best-of-Both-Worlds-Combo-800x500.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Oxtails-and-Curry-Goat-Best-of-Both-Worlds-Combo-1020x638.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Oxtails-and-Curry-Goat-Best-of-Both-Worlds-Combo-160x100.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Oxtails-and-Curry-Goat-Best-of-Both-Worlds-Combo-768x480.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Oxtails-and-Curry-Goat-Best-of-Both-Worlds-Combo-1536x960.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/Oxtails-and-Curry-Goat-Best-of-Both-Worlds-Combo-1920x1200.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A “Best of Both Worlds” combo plate with oxtails and curry goat — one of Cocobreeze’s African Restaurant Week specials. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cocobreeze)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In many ways, the very existence of Bay Area African Restaurant Week is a testament to how much more mainstream exposure the cuisines of the African diaspora have achieved over the past several years. An event of this scale would have been almost inconceivable in the Bay Area even a decade ago, when very few of these cuisines had received much local recognition or coverage outside of the immigrant communities themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tijaniqudus says that as much as she has always loved sharing her own Nigerian culture and food, she hopes this restaurant week will help take the Bay Area’s African food scene to the next level.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People know jollof, jollof, jollof,” she says. “We want people to taste all of the African foods.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Bay Area African Restaurant Week will run from Sept. 12–22. An updated (and growing) list of participating restaurants is available on the \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://africanrestaurantweek.com/bayarea/\">\u003ci>African Restaurant Week website\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. The \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/kick-off-bay-area-african-restaurant-week-2024-tickets-1004733172967?aff=oddtdtcreator\">\u003ci>kickoff party\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will be held on Friday, Sept. 13 from 6–10 p.m. at Parliament (811 Washington St., Oakland). The \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/bay-area-african-restaurant-week-festival-2024-tickets-944469241927?aff=oddtdtcreator\">\u003ci>closing festival\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> at For the Culture (701 Clay St., Oakland) will be held on Sunday, Sept. 22 from noon–7 p.m. Tickets for both events are currently free when reserved in advance; food and beverages will be sold a la carte.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"marketplace": {
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"politicalbreakdown": {
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"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"pri-the-world": {
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"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
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"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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"reveal": {
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"title": "Reveal",
"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
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},
"rightnowish": {
"id": "rightnowish",
"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"order": 16
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},
"science-friday": {
"id": "science-friday",
"title": "Science Friday",
"info": "Science Friday is a weekly science talk show, broadcast live over public radio stations nationwide. Each week, the show focuses on science topics that are in the news and tries to bring an educated, balanced discussion to bear on the scientific issues at hand. Panels of expert guests join host Ira Flatow, a veteran science journalist, to discuss science and to take questions from listeners during the call-in portion of the program.",
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},
"snap-judgment": {
"id": "snap-judgment",
"title": "Snap Judgment",
"tagline": "Real stories with killer beats",
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