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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962345\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962345\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams-2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men seen through the window of a doughnut shop. They're devouring doughnuts and plates of Hawaiian barbecue.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams-2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams-2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Open late in a Palo Alto strip mall, SH Hawaiian BBQ & Donuts specializes in hearty Hawaiian plate lunches. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In our quest to document the Bay Area’s sweetest and most sacred late-night haunts, let us not forget the humble doughnut shop. Temples to sweet-tooth possessors, havens for night owls and scratch lotto addicts, these fried pastry purveyors are often the only food business within a several-mile radius that’s open past midnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located in a quiet Palo Alto strip mall, SH Hawaiian BBQ & Donuts isn’t a colorful, bustling hangout spot like a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bobsdonuts/?hl=en\">Bob’s\u003c/a>. (During our visit on a recent Friday night, it was almost completely empty.) It doesn’t have the surreal weirdness of a Silver Crest Donut Shop (\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13961794/silver-crest-closed-sf-donut-shop\">R.I.P.\u003c/a>). It isn’t quite open 24 hours. It doesn’t even sell lotto scratchers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The one thing the doughnut shop/Hawaiian barbecue hybrid is committed to, though, is feeding anyone with a case of late-night munchies — and not just with doughnuts, but noodle soups, rice bowls and full-on Hawaiian plate lunches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant falls vaguely in the same category as the kind of \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/doughnuts-and-barbecue-1/\">Cambodian-owned doughnut shop\u003c/a> that sells lemongrass-scented meat skewers and sticky-sweet chicken wings on the side — except the savory food menu is even broader and more eclectic. As its name indicates, the shop is best known for \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13911062/hawaiian-barbecue-bay-area-multicultural-oakland-ilava\">Hawaiian barbecue\u003c/a>, but like other Bay Area restaurants in this genre, it rounds out its menu with a wide array of Hawaiian and Chinese American takeout standards. There’s Spam musubi, of course, along with other comfort food favorites like loco moco and kalua pork. You can order a Hawaiian-Japanese beef curry plate, a bowl of wonton soup, and about a half-dozen different variations on saimin (Hawaii’s homegrown, ramen-like noodle soup).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s even Vietnamese pho on the menu, even if we weren’t quite feeling frisky enough to try it on this particular visit. The dining room looks the part, too: the bottles of sriracha and sweet chili sauce (and, why not, green Tabasco) on every table, the flatscreen TV perpetually tuned to cable news, and the Christmas decorations still lit up in the middle of July. It’s a pleasantly chill late-night coffee shop vibe (though the place seems to mostly do a lot of takeout business).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962346\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962346\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: The facade of SH Hawaiian BBQ & Donuts, lit up at night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant has a pleasantly chill late-night coffee shop vibe. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In any case, if you’re in the mood for a big, meaty Hawaiian plate lunch at 2 o’clock in the morning — and you won’t believe how often I get this \u003ci>specific\u003c/i> late-night craving — this is your spot. The good news is that the food at SH is as tasty as we had hoped, especially if you stick to the straightforward offerings on the barbecue side of the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’re feeling particularly famished, go for the “BBQ Mix” plate, which for about $17 comes jam-packed with teriyaki-glazed grilled chicken, beef and kalbi-style on-the-bone short ribs, two scoops of rice, and one scoop of excellent, mayonnaise-y mac salad. The chicken and the short ribs, in particular, were excellent — juicy and flavorful with a nicely caramelized char. It was such a generous plate of food, the takeout carton still had an impressive heft to it even after we’d eaten half of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13961997,arts_13961613,arts_13911062']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Maybe it was the lateness of the hour, but SH’s version of even something as ubiquitous as Spam musubi impressed us. Past midnight, where else can you get musubi where the Spam comes hot off the grill and the crisp nori is freshly toasted?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, we couldn’t visit a late-night doughnut shop without scoring at least a couple of doughnuts, and in this regard too, SH’s offerings seemed to be a few notches better and more varied than the norm. In addition to the standard doughnut purveyor’s selection of crullers, cake doughnuts, variously-filled-and-glazed raised doughnuts, and croissant breakfast sandwiches, the shop also sells trendier items — maple-bacon bars, for instance, and doughnuts topped with ube-taro, Fruity Pebbles or Cinnamon Toast Crunch. (“Some young person is affiliated with this business,” I wrote in my notes.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the end, I opted for a classic apple fritter — a gargantuan specimen, and one of several different fritter varieties on offer. The first bite was the best bite: those wonderfully crisp edges, rich and oily without being too sweet. The sudden urge I felt to scratch off a lotto ticket notwithstanding, it was the perfect way to close out the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>SH Hawaiian BBQ & Donuts (3890 El Camino Real, Palo Alto) is open Mon.–Wed. 9 a.m.–2 a.m., Thu.–Sat. 8 a.m.–3 a.m. and Sun. 8 a.m.–2 a.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s even Vietnamese pho on the menu, even if we weren’t quite feeling frisky enough to try it on this particular visit. The dining room looks the part, too: the bottles of sriracha and sweet chili sauce (and, why not, green Tabasco) on every table, the flatscreen TV perpetually tuned to cable news, and the Christmas decorations still lit up in the middle of July. It’s a pleasantly chill late-night coffee shop vibe (though the place seems to mostly do a lot of takeout business).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962346\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962346\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: The facade of SH Hawaiian BBQ & Donuts, lit up at night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/Sams-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant has a pleasantly chill late-night coffee shop vibe. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In any case, if you’re in the mood for a big, meaty Hawaiian plate lunch at 2 o’clock in the morning — and you won’t believe how often I get this \u003ci>specific\u003c/i> late-night craving — this is your spot. The good news is that the food at SH is as tasty as we had hoped, especially if you stick to the straightforward offerings on the barbecue side of the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’re feeling particularly famished, go for the “BBQ Mix” plate, which for about $17 comes jam-packed with teriyaki-glazed grilled chicken, beef and kalbi-style on-the-bone short ribs, two scoops of rice, and one scoop of excellent, mayonnaise-y mac salad. The chicken and the short ribs, in particular, were excellent — juicy and flavorful with a nicely caramelized char. It was such a generous plate of food, the takeout carton still had an impressive heft to it even after we’d eaten half of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Maybe it was the lateness of the hour, but SH’s version of even something as ubiquitous as Spam musubi impressed us. Past midnight, where else can you get musubi where the Spam comes hot off the grill and the crisp nori is freshly toasted?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, we couldn’t visit a late-night doughnut shop without scoring at least a couple of doughnuts, and in this regard too, SH’s offerings seemed to be a few notches better and more varied than the norm. In addition to the standard doughnut purveyor’s selection of crullers, cake doughnuts, variously-filled-and-glazed raised doughnuts, and croissant breakfast sandwiches, the shop also sells trendier items — maple-bacon bars, for instance, and doughnuts topped with ube-taro, Fruity Pebbles or Cinnamon Toast Crunch. (“Some young person is affiliated with this business,” I wrote in my notes.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the end, I opted for a classic apple fritter — a gargantuan specimen, and one of several different fritter varieties on offer. The first bite was the best bite: those wonderfully crisp edges, rich and oily without being too sweet. The sudden urge I felt to scratch off a lotto ticket notwithstanding, it was the perfect way to close out the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>SH Hawaiian BBQ & Donuts (3890 El Camino Real, Palo Alto) is open Mon.–Wed. 9 a.m.–2 a.m., Thu.–Sat. 8 a.m.–3 a.m. and Sun. 8 a.m.–2 a.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "fikscue-best-indonesian-texas-barbecue-smoked-brisket-alameda",
"title": "Fikscue’s Indo-Tex BBQ Is a Quintessentially Bay Area Creation",
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"content": "\u003cp>[dropcap]B[/dropcap]efore I visited \u003ca href=\"https://www.fikscue.com/\">Fikscue\u003c/a>, I had never eaten Texas barbecue in combination with homestyle Indonesian food — thick, jiggly slices of smoked brisket paired with a peanut-sauce slaw, or bites of a prehistoric-sized beef rib interspersed with fragrant nasi goreng fried rice. But by the time I’d finished my lunch, I was convinced this was just about the most ingenious act of culinary fusion anyone had ever concocted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clearly, I’m not the only one. At around 11:30 on a recent Sunday morning, a half hour before Fikscue’s tiny Alameda storefront opened for business, the queue along Park Street already stretched most of the way down the block. It’s been like this ever since husband-and-wife owners Fik and Reka Saleh opened their brick-and-mortar spot this past November. The restaurant is only open on Saturdays and Sundays, and just for lunch. By 3:30, they’re completely sold out — and even earlier for hot-ticket items like the dino ribs and beef back ribs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given how delicious the barbecue is — and it’s as good as any I’ve tasted in Northern California — it’s remarkable that Fik, the restaurant’s pitmaster and namesake, only started honing his craft about six years ago, after a life-changing trip to the barbecue heartlands of Austin, Texas. He taught himself how to smoke brisket by watching \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/user/bbqwithfranklin\">Aaron Franklin videos\u003c/a> on YouTube and began making it at home for friends and family in a backyard offset smoker. He’d nerd out over barbecue minutiae, developing a fondness for the “mohawk” of the brisket — a part most pitmasters trimmed off that made for the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fikscue/reel/CsT8WvApffH/\">best burnt ends\u003c/a>, he discovered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He got good, too. Good enough that when he lost his day job at the start of the pandemic, he asked himself, “Why not?” He started selling brisket via \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fikscue/\">Instagram\u003c/a> under the name Fikscue in June of 2020.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962172\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962172\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0092-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A long line of people on a sidewalk waiting to get into a restaurant\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0092-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0092-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0092-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0092-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0092-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0092-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0092-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Customers often wait an hour or longer to put in their orders. By 3:30 p.m. — or earlier —the restaurant is usually completely sold out. \u003ccite>(Marissa Leshnov for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962171\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962171\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0077-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A barbecue chef in a black apron passes out samples to customers waiting in line.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0077-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0077-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0077-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0077-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0077-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0077-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0077-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fik Saleh hands out samples of smoked brisket for people waiting in line before opening. \u003ccite>(Marissa Leshnov for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Reka had made a study of incorporating leftover brisket into Indonesian food. She launched her own parallel Instagram pop-up, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/gurih.table/\">Gurih Table\u003c/a>, selling traditional dishes alongside the couple’s earliest attempts at fusion, including a smoked brisket rendang plate she still considers her proudest creation. When the opportunity to open a full-on brick-and-mortar restaurant presented itself, it was an easy decision to combine the two concepts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Reka and Fik, there isn’t really any culture of smoking meat in Indonesia, where both of them were born. But Fik, who grew up in Jakarta until his senior year of high school, remembers how everywhere he went there’d be street food vendors selling satay, Indonesia’s version of grilled meat on a stick. It’s part of what turned him into a “backyard person” — the designated steak-griller and burger-flipper at any outdoor function — once he moved to the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put in that context, Fikscue’s hybridized cuisine just makes sense. I, too, was raised on the kind of first-generation \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13915306/bbq-in-the-bay-series-intro-multicultural-barbecue-bay-area\">Asian American immigrant cookout\u003c/a> where we’d pair grilled meats with \u003ca href=\"https://tastecooking.com/jif-peanut-butter-cold-sesame-noodles/\">garlicky cold noodles\u003c/a>, and wash our hot dogs down with lemon aiyu ladled from a punch bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962169\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962169\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0064-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A barbecue pitmaster slices brisket on a wooden chopping block.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0064-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0064-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0064-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0064-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0064-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0064-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0064-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cutting the brisket. \u003ccite>(Marissa Leshnov for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962167\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962167\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0012-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A chef dumps a tray of cubed brisket into a pot of brown stew.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0012-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0012-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0012-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0012-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0012-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0012-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0012-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reka Saleh prepares adds cubes of smoked brisket to batch of rendang — a unique Indo-Tex interpretation of the classic Indonesian stew. \u003ccite>(Marissa Leshnov for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, for me, the food at Fikscue was doubly enjoyable. Again, the barbecue itself is pure Texas style: The dino beef ribs aren’t just jaw-droppingly large; they’re smoked to a wobbly, luxurious tenderness you can cut through with a fork. The beef back ribs, a relative rarity in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bbq\">Bay Area barbecue scene\u003c/a>, are all crisp, chewy edges — a sheer delight to gnaw off the bone. And, of course, that smoked brisket is as good as advertised, juicy and full-flavored even without sauce, especially if you land a fatty, extra-jiggly slice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13915312,arts_13954939,arts_13908798']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>What I loved even more was eating these smoked meats in combination with the various Indonesian side dishes — an experience that, for me, felt both nostalgic and thrillingly new. Eaten on its own, barbecue can be a little bit too rich and salty to enjoy in large quantities. What a marvel it was, then, to take a bite of brisket or beef rib and then cleanse my palate with Fikscue’s sweet, peanutty, Indonesian-inspired cucumber-and-cabbage slaw studded with chunks of fresh pineapple — so much more interesting than your standard vinegar-based slaw. And who knew that fried rice laced with fish sauce and corned beef, served fresh out of a hot wok, would be the perfect accompaniment to Texas-style ’cue?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the most enjoyable dishes was also the most overt in its Indo-Texan fusion. The balado plate looks indistinguishable from a classic Indonesian lunch: a mound of rice, a puffy and frilly-edged fried egg, luscious creamed-kale curry (maybe the most compulsively eatable thing on the plate), a pile of colorful garlic chips and a big hunk of smoked brisket or chicken tossed in fiery-red sambal. Somehow, the combination of flavors couldn’t have felt more natural.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962177\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962177\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0223-KQED_1.jpg\" alt=\"A tray of barbecue includes a dino beef rib, a slice of brisket, a sausage, and a cardboard try of fried rice.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0223-KQED_1.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0223-KQED_1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0223-KQED_1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0223-KQED_1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0223-KQED_1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0223-KQED_1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0223-KQED_1-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The perfect combination: smoked brisket, jalapeño-cheese beef sausage, a dino beef rib and a sleeve of Indonesian nasi goreng fried rice. \u003ccite>(Marissa Leshnov for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During my recent Sunday lunchtime visit, the crowd looked to be about 90% Asian American, which the Salehs say isn’t atypical, though the particular mix of people varies from week to week. But no matter a customer’s background, a meal at Fikscue is likely to introduce them to something new. Barbecue aficionados might be trying Indonesian food for the first time. Folks who come for the Asian food might get their first taste of legit Texas-style barbecue. And since the restaurant is 100% halal, it also attracts Muslim customers who might be new to both cuisines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Reka puts it, “Our whole goal is to bridge these two food cultures and introduce [them] to the community.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the only thing keeping Indo-Tex barbecue from becoming the biggest thing in the Bay Area food scene right now? The long lines and limited hours mean the current iteration of Fikscue is mostly for the diehards — folks willing to plan a big chunk of their weekend around the experience, basically.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962236\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962236\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_Fikscue_ML_0201_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A paper sleeve of cucumber and cabbage slaw.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_Fikscue_ML_0201_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_Fikscue_ML_0201_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_Fikscue_ML_0201_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_Fikscue_ML_0201_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_Fikscue_ML_0201_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_Fikscue_ML_0201_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_Fikscue_ML_0201_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fikscue’s peanutty rujak slaw has the flavor profile of an Indonesian fruit salad. \u003ccite>(Marissa Leshnov for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962175\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962175\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0213-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Customers order at the front counter of a barbecue restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0213-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0213-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0213-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0213-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0213-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0213-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0213-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Another busy Sunday at Fikscue. \u003ccite>(Marissa Leshnov for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At first, the Salehs had hoped to stay open three or four days a week, but a (still unresolved) permitting snafu put a dent in those plans, preventing them from operating their smoker on-site. In the coming months, they’d like to add at least one more day to their weekly schedule — perhaps a non-barbecue dinner service focused on Indonesian-style satay grilling. In past pop-ups, they’ve grilled skewers of cubed, smoked brisket to great acclaim, and Reka has been doing R&D to try to perfect a version of ayam bakar, a classic Indonesian grilled chicken dish with wonderfully caramelized skin. They’d also like to serve Indonesian oxtail soup, but with smoked oxtail to give the dish a Fikscue-style twist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I think we’ve only scratched the surface of what we can offer,” Fik says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for those intimidatingly long lines, Fik says he’s always thinking about ways to make the restaurant more accessible to newcomers. But he’s also reminded of the fact that in Texas, it isn’t too uncommon to find barbecue spots set up the same way as theirs — open just two or three days a week with a limited supply of meat and, often, lines that stretch as long as four or five hours. For truly outstanding barbecue, people are willing to wait.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With that point of comparison, Fik says with a sheepish laugh, “I think an hour’s not too bad.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962173\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962173\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0109-KQED.jpg\" alt='A woman and a man pose for a portrait, both wearing black and gold \"Fikscue\" baseball caps.' width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0109-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0109-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0109-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0109-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0109-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0109-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0109-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The husband-and-wife team: Fik Saleh (right) is a self-taught barbecue pitmaster. And Reka Saleh has mastered the art of incorporating leftover barbecue into traditional Indonesian dishes. \u003ccite>(Marissa Leshnov for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fikscue/\">\u003ci>Fikscue\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open on Saturdays and Sundays, from noon–4 p.m. (or until sold out), at 1708 Park St. Ste. 120 in Alameda. The restaurant has a few tables set up in its small outdoor courtyard; otherwise, dine-in customers can bring their food into Alameda Island Brewing next door if they purchase a drink.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "This Indonesian-Texan Barbecue Spot Is One of the Bay Area's Hottest Restaurants | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">B\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>efore I visited \u003ca href=\"https://www.fikscue.com/\">Fikscue\u003c/a>, I had never eaten Texas barbecue in combination with homestyle Indonesian food — thick, jiggly slices of smoked brisket paired with a peanut-sauce slaw, or bites of a prehistoric-sized beef rib interspersed with fragrant nasi goreng fried rice. But by the time I’d finished my lunch, I was convinced this was just about the most ingenious act of culinary fusion anyone had ever concocted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clearly, I’m not the only one. At around 11:30 on a recent Sunday morning, a half hour before Fikscue’s tiny Alameda storefront opened for business, the queue along Park Street already stretched most of the way down the block. It’s been like this ever since husband-and-wife owners Fik and Reka Saleh opened their brick-and-mortar spot this past November. The restaurant is only open on Saturdays and Sundays, and just for lunch. By 3:30, they’re completely sold out — and even earlier for hot-ticket items like the dino ribs and beef back ribs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given how delicious the barbecue is — and it’s as good as any I’ve tasted in Northern California — it’s remarkable that Fik, the restaurant’s pitmaster and namesake, only started honing his craft about six years ago, after a life-changing trip to the barbecue heartlands of Austin, Texas. He taught himself how to smoke brisket by watching \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/user/bbqwithfranklin\">Aaron Franklin videos\u003c/a> on YouTube and began making it at home for friends and family in a backyard offset smoker. He’d nerd out over barbecue minutiae, developing a fondness for the “mohawk” of the brisket — a part most pitmasters trimmed off that made for the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fikscue/reel/CsT8WvApffH/\">best burnt ends\u003c/a>, he discovered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He got good, too. Good enough that when he lost his day job at the start of the pandemic, he asked himself, “Why not?” He started selling brisket via \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fikscue/\">Instagram\u003c/a> under the name Fikscue in June of 2020.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962172\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962172\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0092-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A long line of people on a sidewalk waiting to get into a restaurant\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0092-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0092-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0092-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0092-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0092-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0092-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0092-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Customers often wait an hour or longer to put in their orders. By 3:30 p.m. — or earlier —the restaurant is usually completely sold out. \u003ccite>(Marissa Leshnov for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962171\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962171\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0077-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A barbecue chef in a black apron passes out samples to customers waiting in line.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0077-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0077-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0077-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0077-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0077-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0077-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0077-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fik Saleh hands out samples of smoked brisket for people waiting in line before opening. \u003ccite>(Marissa Leshnov for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Reka had made a study of incorporating leftover brisket into Indonesian food. She launched her own parallel Instagram pop-up, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/gurih.table/\">Gurih Table\u003c/a>, selling traditional dishes alongside the couple’s earliest attempts at fusion, including a smoked brisket rendang plate she still considers her proudest creation. When the opportunity to open a full-on brick-and-mortar restaurant presented itself, it was an easy decision to combine the two concepts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Reka and Fik, there isn’t really any culture of smoking meat in Indonesia, where both of them were born. But Fik, who grew up in Jakarta until his senior year of high school, remembers how everywhere he went there’d be street food vendors selling satay, Indonesia’s version of grilled meat on a stick. It’s part of what turned him into a “backyard person” — the designated steak-griller and burger-flipper at any outdoor function — once he moved to the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put in that context, Fikscue’s hybridized cuisine just makes sense. I, too, was raised on the kind of first-generation \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13915306/bbq-in-the-bay-series-intro-multicultural-barbecue-bay-area\">Asian American immigrant cookout\u003c/a> where we’d pair grilled meats with \u003ca href=\"https://tastecooking.com/jif-peanut-butter-cold-sesame-noodles/\">garlicky cold noodles\u003c/a>, and wash our hot dogs down with lemon aiyu ladled from a punch bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962169\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962169\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0064-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A barbecue pitmaster slices brisket on a wooden chopping block.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0064-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0064-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0064-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0064-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0064-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0064-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0064-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cutting the brisket. \u003ccite>(Marissa Leshnov for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962167\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962167\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0012-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A chef dumps a tray of cubed brisket into a pot of brown stew.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0012-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0012-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0012-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0012-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0012-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0012-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0012-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reka Saleh prepares adds cubes of smoked brisket to batch of rendang — a unique Indo-Tex interpretation of the classic Indonesian stew. \u003ccite>(Marissa Leshnov for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, for me, the food at Fikscue was doubly enjoyable. Again, the barbecue itself is pure Texas style: The dino beef ribs aren’t just jaw-droppingly large; they’re smoked to a wobbly, luxurious tenderness you can cut through with a fork. The beef back ribs, a relative rarity in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bbq\">Bay Area barbecue scene\u003c/a>, are all crisp, chewy edges — a sheer delight to gnaw off the bone. And, of course, that smoked brisket is as good as advertised, juicy and full-flavored even without sauce, especially if you land a fatty, extra-jiggly slice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>What I loved even more was eating these smoked meats in combination with the various Indonesian side dishes — an experience that, for me, felt both nostalgic and thrillingly new. Eaten on its own, barbecue can be a little bit too rich and salty to enjoy in large quantities. What a marvel it was, then, to take a bite of brisket or beef rib and then cleanse my palate with Fikscue’s sweet, peanutty, Indonesian-inspired cucumber-and-cabbage slaw studded with chunks of fresh pineapple — so much more interesting than your standard vinegar-based slaw. And who knew that fried rice laced with fish sauce and corned beef, served fresh out of a hot wok, would be the perfect accompaniment to Texas-style ’cue?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the most enjoyable dishes was also the most overt in its Indo-Texan fusion. The balado plate looks indistinguishable from a classic Indonesian lunch: a mound of rice, a puffy and frilly-edged fried egg, luscious creamed-kale curry (maybe the most compulsively eatable thing on the plate), a pile of colorful garlic chips and a big hunk of smoked brisket or chicken tossed in fiery-red sambal. Somehow, the combination of flavors couldn’t have felt more natural.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962177\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962177\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0223-KQED_1.jpg\" alt=\"A tray of barbecue includes a dino beef rib, a slice of brisket, a sausage, and a cardboard try of fried rice.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0223-KQED_1.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0223-KQED_1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0223-KQED_1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0223-KQED_1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0223-KQED_1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0223-KQED_1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0223-KQED_1-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The perfect combination: smoked brisket, jalapeño-cheese beef sausage, a dino beef rib and a sleeve of Indonesian nasi goreng fried rice. \u003ccite>(Marissa Leshnov for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During my recent Sunday lunchtime visit, the crowd looked to be about 90% Asian American, which the Salehs say isn’t atypical, though the particular mix of people varies from week to week. But no matter a customer’s background, a meal at Fikscue is likely to introduce them to something new. Barbecue aficionados might be trying Indonesian food for the first time. Folks who come for the Asian food might get their first taste of legit Texas-style barbecue. And since the restaurant is 100% halal, it also attracts Muslim customers who might be new to both cuisines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Reka puts it, “Our whole goal is to bridge these two food cultures and introduce [them] to the community.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the only thing keeping Indo-Tex barbecue from becoming the biggest thing in the Bay Area food scene right now? The long lines and limited hours mean the current iteration of Fikscue is mostly for the diehards — folks willing to plan a big chunk of their weekend around the experience, basically.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962236\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962236\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_Fikscue_ML_0201_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A paper sleeve of cucumber and cabbage slaw.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_Fikscue_ML_0201_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_Fikscue_ML_0201_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_Fikscue_ML_0201_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_Fikscue_ML_0201_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_Fikscue_ML_0201_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_Fikscue_ML_0201_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_Fikscue_ML_0201_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fikscue’s peanutty rujak slaw has the flavor profile of an Indonesian fruit salad. \u003ccite>(Marissa Leshnov for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962175\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962175\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0213-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Customers order at the front counter of a barbecue restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0213-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0213-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0213-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0213-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0213-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0213-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0213-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Another busy Sunday at Fikscue. \u003ccite>(Marissa Leshnov for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At first, the Salehs had hoped to stay open three or four days a week, but a (still unresolved) permitting snafu put a dent in those plans, preventing them from operating their smoker on-site. In the coming months, they’d like to add at least one more day to their weekly schedule — perhaps a non-barbecue dinner service focused on Indonesian-style satay grilling. In past pop-ups, they’ve grilled skewers of cubed, smoked brisket to great acclaim, and Reka has been doing R&D to try to perfect a version of ayam bakar, a classic Indonesian grilled chicken dish with wonderfully caramelized skin. They’d also like to serve Indonesian oxtail soup, but with smoked oxtail to give the dish a Fikscue-style twist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I think we’ve only scratched the surface of what we can offer,” Fik says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for those intimidatingly long lines, Fik says he’s always thinking about ways to make the restaurant more accessible to newcomers. But he’s also reminded of the fact that in Texas, it isn’t too uncommon to find barbecue spots set up the same way as theirs — open just two or three days a week with a limited supply of meat and, often, lines that stretch as long as four or five hours. For truly outstanding barbecue, people are willing to wait.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With that point of comparison, Fik says with a sheepish laugh, “I think an hour’s not too bad.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962173\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962173\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0109-KQED.jpg\" alt='A woman and a man pose for a portrait, both wearing black and gold \"Fikscue\" baseball caps.' width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0109-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0109-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0109-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0109-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0109-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0109-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/20240804_KQED_FIKSCUE_ML_0109-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The husband-and-wife team: Fik Saleh (right) is a self-taught barbecue pitmaster. And Reka Saleh has mastered the art of incorporating leftover barbecue into traditional Indonesian dishes. \u003ccite>(Marissa Leshnov for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fikscue/\">\u003ci>Fikscue\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open on Saturdays and Sundays, from noon–4 p.m. (or until sold out), at 1708 Park St. Ste. 120 in Alameda. The restaurant has a few tables set up in its small outdoor courtyard; otherwise, dine-in customers can bring their food into Alameda Island Brewing next door if they purchase a drink.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "brazen-head-late-night-san-francisco-marina-cow-hollow",
"title": "Brazen Head Is San Francisco’s Most Delightful Late-Night Secret",
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"headTitle": "Brazen Head Is San Francisco’s Most Delightful Late-Night Secret | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962008\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962008\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: One man eats a bowl of French onion soup, pulling up a long strand of melted cheese. Another, in the foreground, forks escargots into his mouth.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The food at Brazen Head is delightfully old-school. The Cow Hollow pub is one of San Francisco’s best late-night restaurants. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of San Francisco’s best-kept secrets is an unmarked Irish pub that serves French food until midnight — a dimly lit time capsule of a restaurant hidden away on a windswept corner of the Marina.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But maybe you already knew that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, what I love about \u003ca href=\"https://www.brazenheadsf.com/\">Brazen Head\u003c/a> — the Cow Hollow pub in question — is how the place is full of seeming contradictions. Start with how the restaurant still feels like a well-kept secret, unknown to wide swaths of San Franciscans — despite being, at the same time, a beloved local institution. Since we started this column, no other late-night spot in San Francisco has been recommended to us more frequently or with greater enthusiasm, in some cases by readers who’ve been frequenting the place since it first opened in the early ’80s. It’s your \u003ca href=\"https://blog.resy.com/2021/09/at-places-like-brazen-head-its-all-about-the-people/\">favorite chef’s favorite restaurant\u003c/a> — an IYKYK haunt for \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/entertainment/article/The-old-fashioned-art-of-bartending-is-alive-at-13171622.php\">local food and beverage industry types\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it really \u003ci>is \u003c/i>popular. Even at 10 o’clock on a random Monday night, both the bar counter and dining room were almost fully packed, the whole place busy and buzzing with conversation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it’s also true that no one we knew personally had ever heard of Brazen Head, let alone eaten there. And the place is easy to miss, even if you’re already in the area. There’s no signage to speak of, other than a chalkboard specials sign posted on the sidewalk out front and a “B” and “H” on the old-timey stained-glass door panes. Pro tip: Look for the blue awning across the street from the Motel Capri.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962006\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962006\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: The facade of an unmarked bar pictured late at night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There’s no signage other than a sidewalk chalkboard listing the day’s specials. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Inside, Brazen Head’s aesthetics are those of an Irish pub even more ancient than its 40-plus years: wood paneling, thick velvet curtains and portraits of men in wigs reminiscent of the Elizabethan era. Dim orange lights suffuse the room with an eerie, Halloween-esque glow. The vibe is excellent — even if I’m convinced no human has ever taken a food photo here that doesn’t look like it was \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/brazenheadsf/\">shot in infrared\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu, too, feels like a delightful time warp. It’s about evenly split between French bistro, Italian American and “classic American,” by which I mean the kind of old-school food that used to be ubiquitous at hotel restaurants in the 1980s — or the 1950s, even. When was the last time you saw escargots on the menu at a casual restaurant? Not some newfangled version topped with foam or microgreens, but the classic French style, in deep pools of hot, garlicky melted butter that you sop up with toasted sourdough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13961613,arts_13961328,arts_13959808']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Or when was the last time you had beef Stroganoff, or even thought about the dish’s existence? (I’d probably have to go all the way back to my college struggle meals of Hamburger Helper.) Brazen Head’s version, a special on the night of our visit, featured tender chunks of filet mignon and fresh, handmade pappardelle, all tossed in a tangy sour cream sauce — a combination that was so wonderfully cozy and nostalgic, we couldn’t stop eating it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>French onion soup might seem like a perfunctory dish to put on a pub menu, but Brazen Head’s tastes like it was made with love — rich and melty, with a full-flavored broth that warmed us up from the inside. And even though most tables had ordered hefty prime rib plates (probably the restaurant’s most popular dish), we decided to go with another throwback: New York strip steak seared to an exquisitely tender and pink-centered medium rare, then bathed in a velvety black pepper au jus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It felt extraordinarily luxurious to be eating food like this — escargots and handmade pasta! — at 11 o’clock on a weeknight. But the most surprising thing about Brazen Head was just how genuinely warm and friendly the service was — and, for a casual pub, how downright elegant. I wouldn’t have pegged this as the kind of restaurant where they swap out your plates and silverware between every course, and brush every stray crumb off the table. As soon as we mentioned to our server that we planned on sharing everything, she coursed out the entire meal, bringing one entree at a time, so that we could savor each dish at our own pace. All without the slightest hint of pretension.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No wonder the restaurant was still bustling even as the night wound down, a cross section of San Francisco all gathered in that hazy orange glow — young and septuagenarian; tourists and locals; couples dressed up for date night, and servers and line cooks just finished with their shift at some other restaurant. Everyone chatting up the bartender over cold martinis or polishing off the last bit of their prime rib plate. It was hard to imagine a more comfortable place.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/brazenheadsf/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Brazen Head\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (3166 Buchanan St., San Francisco) serves dinner Mon. and Tue. from 5–11 p.m. and Wed.–Sun. from 5 p.m.–midnight. The bar is open until 2 a.m. daily. No reservations.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962008\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962008\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: One man eats a bowl of French onion soup, pulling up a long strand of melted cheese. Another, in the foreground, forks escargots into his mouth.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The food at Brazen Head is delightfully old-school. The Cow Hollow pub is one of San Francisco’s best late-night restaurants. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of San Francisco’s best-kept secrets is an unmarked Irish pub that serves French food until midnight — a dimly lit time capsule of a restaurant hidden away on a windswept corner of the Marina.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But maybe you already knew that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, what I love about \u003ca href=\"https://www.brazenheadsf.com/\">Brazen Head\u003c/a> — the Cow Hollow pub in question — is how the place is full of seeming contradictions. Start with how the restaurant still feels like a well-kept secret, unknown to wide swaths of San Franciscans — despite being, at the same time, a beloved local institution. Since we started this column, no other late-night spot in San Francisco has been recommended to us more frequently or with greater enthusiasm, in some cases by readers who’ve been frequenting the place since it first opened in the early ’80s. It’s your \u003ca href=\"https://blog.resy.com/2021/09/at-places-like-brazen-head-its-all-about-the-people/\">favorite chef’s favorite restaurant\u003c/a> — an IYKYK haunt for \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/entertainment/article/The-old-fashioned-art-of-bartending-is-alive-at-13171622.php\">local food and beverage industry types\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it really \u003ci>is \u003c/i>popular. Even at 10 o’clock on a random Monday night, both the bar counter and dining room were almost fully packed, the whole place busy and buzzing with conversation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it’s also true that no one we knew personally had ever heard of Brazen Head, let alone eaten there. And the place is easy to miss, even if you’re already in the area. There’s no signage to speak of, other than a chalkboard specials sign posted on the sidewalk out front and a “B” and “H” on the old-timey stained-glass door panes. Pro tip: Look for the blue awning across the street from the Motel Capri.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13962006\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13962006\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: The facade of an unmarked bar pictured late at night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/BrazenHead-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There’s no signage other than a sidewalk chalkboard listing the day’s specials. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Inside, Brazen Head’s aesthetics are those of an Irish pub even more ancient than its 40-plus years: wood paneling, thick velvet curtains and portraits of men in wigs reminiscent of the Elizabethan era. Dim orange lights suffuse the room with an eerie, Halloween-esque glow. The vibe is excellent — even if I’m convinced no human has ever taken a food photo here that doesn’t look like it was \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/brazenheadsf/\">shot in infrared\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu, too, feels like a delightful time warp. It’s about evenly split between French bistro, Italian American and “classic American,” by which I mean the kind of old-school food that used to be ubiquitous at hotel restaurants in the 1980s — or the 1950s, even. When was the last time you saw escargots on the menu at a casual restaurant? Not some newfangled version topped with foam or microgreens, but the classic French style, in deep pools of hot, garlicky melted butter that you sop up with toasted sourdough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Or when was the last time you had beef Stroganoff, or even thought about the dish’s existence? (I’d probably have to go all the way back to my college struggle meals of Hamburger Helper.) Brazen Head’s version, a special on the night of our visit, featured tender chunks of filet mignon and fresh, handmade pappardelle, all tossed in a tangy sour cream sauce — a combination that was so wonderfully cozy and nostalgic, we couldn’t stop eating it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>French onion soup might seem like a perfunctory dish to put on a pub menu, but Brazen Head’s tastes like it was made with love — rich and melty, with a full-flavored broth that warmed us up from the inside. And even though most tables had ordered hefty prime rib plates (probably the restaurant’s most popular dish), we decided to go with another throwback: New York strip steak seared to an exquisitely tender and pink-centered medium rare, then bathed in a velvety black pepper au jus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It felt extraordinarily luxurious to be eating food like this — escargots and handmade pasta! — at 11 o’clock on a weeknight. But the most surprising thing about Brazen Head was just how genuinely warm and friendly the service was — and, for a casual pub, how downright elegant. I wouldn’t have pegged this as the kind of restaurant where they swap out your plates and silverware between every course, and brush every stray crumb off the table. As soon as we mentioned to our server that we planned on sharing everything, she coursed out the entire meal, bringing one entree at a time, so that we could savor each dish at our own pace. All without the slightest hint of pretension.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No wonder the restaurant was still bustling even as the night wound down, a cross section of San Francisco all gathered in that hazy orange glow — young and septuagenarian; tourists and locals; couples dressed up for date night, and servers and line cooks just finished with their shift at some other restaurant. Everyone chatting up the bartender over cold martinis or polishing off the last bit of their prime rib plate. It was hard to imagine a more comfortable place.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/brazenheadsf/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Brazen Head\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (3166 Buchanan St., San Francisco) serves dinner Mon. and Tue. from 5–11 p.m. and Wed.–Sun. from 5 p.m.–midnight. The bar is open until 2 a.m. daily. No reservations.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "mestiza-filipino-vegan-restaurant-kamayan-soma-sf",
"title": "SF's Mestiza Returns With 13-Inch Lumpia and Vegan Filipino Bites",
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"headTitle": "SF’s Mestiza Returns With 13-Inch Lumpia and Vegan Filipino Bites | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/hellahungry\">\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry!\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a series of interviews with Bay Area foodmakers exploring the region’s culinary innovations through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[dropcap]O[/dropcap]perating a restaurant in San Francisco isn’t for the faint-hearted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a \u003ci>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/i> column published earlier this year, former restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/opinion/article/san-francisco-restaurant-small-business-18494773.php\">critic Soleil Ho outlined the debilitating costs of running a food business in a city\u003c/a> where even the most heralded institutions straddle a precarious tightrope “between stability and destitution.” In Ho’s eyes, the American notion of getting rewarded for hard work is merely a “fairy tale” — and that’s especially apparent in \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/sales-revenue-san-francisco-18659409.php\">the local restaurant industry’s recent struggles\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don’t tell Deanna Sison, though. As a savvy Filipina American hustler who operates a chicken-and-waffles spot (\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/littleskilletsf/?hl=en\">Little Skillet\u003c/a>) inside a cocktail bar (\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/victoryhallsf/?hl=en\">Victory Hall\u003c/a>) in Frisco’s SoMa district, Sison is far from feeble-spirited.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, she’s doubling — tripling? — down on her vision by re-launching Mestiza, the fast-casual Filipino noshery she opened in 2016. After the restaurant shuttered in 2020 due to the pandemic, most people would have just walked away. Not Sison.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961825\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961825\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-07-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-07-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-07-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-07-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-07-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-07-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-07-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-07-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Deanna Sison poses for a portrait at her restaurant Mestiza, which reopened at a new location in SoMa in April 2024. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Open since April, Mestiza blooms again in a fresh, open-air venue with a vegetarian-friendly twist that isn’t usually at the forefront of Filipino cuisine. The revamped menu features a 13-inch lumpia roll stuffed with sweet potato, shaved Brussels sprouts and water chestnuts, served with pineapple-chili dipping sauce; flamed kofta skewers made from mashed chickpeas; crunchy quinoa-and-mint salad tossed with spicy mango-jalapeño slaw and tamarind vinaigrette; and for those with a sweet tooth, oat milk vanilla soft-serve doused with chili crisps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant additionally offers a bold kamayan dinner meant to be eaten with one’s bare hands: an island-style platter for large groups served on giant banana leaves piled high with fish, fruit, vegetables and lumpia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The vegan-leaning offerings are at once succulent, tropical and abundant — a reflection of both Sison’s health-conscious dietary shifts and chef Syl Mislang’s heritage as a Filipina Mexican. There’s also a hefty dose of savory proteins like pork adobo, grilled shrimp and cured pork belly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I visited Sison at the new location, I could see why she refused to let it all go. A sense of place (there’s a vibrant \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/indiangiver\">Cheyenne Randall\u003c/a> mural on the back wall) and family (Sison’s mother regularly visits to water the patio plants) was palpable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Sison, who has worked in SoMa since arriving in the Bay Area from Florida in 1999, Mestiza is about more than her culinary ambitions. It’s also a reflection of everything she has risked in pursuit of a fuller identity. She came to the Bay Area as a film student eager to build community, particularly among Pinoys, a group she admits was scarce in the American South of the ’80s. Decades later, in Sison’s homebase of San Francisco’s Filipino Cultural District, she hasn’t backed down from her original intentions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961823\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961823\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-02-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-02-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-02-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-02-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-02-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-02-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-02-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-02-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A mural by artist Cheyenne Randall titled ‘Vanilla Sky’ covers the back wall of the restaurant. The mural depicts the Filipina singer Grace Nono. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In its most elemental nature, Mestiza reminds us that, no matter the setbacks, our hunger should never go unattended — especially when that hunger feeds a sense of self.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: What’s your connection to SoMa? I know you’re proud of your roots here.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Deanna Sison:\u003c/b> I was born in Florida, then moved to Germany when I was 10. I moved back to the U.S. when I went to college in Florida, but was always drawn to San Francisco. When I finished school, my one focus was to make it west: to go to San Francisco. The appeal was mainly around the diversity, but also the food culture. I came here in 1999 after college and have been here ever since. My first job was on Natoma Street. I had a Bachelor of Arts in film, and this neighborhood was a hub for independent filmmakers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Whoa, I was not expecting that. What have been the biggest changes in the area since then?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve seen the whole neighborhood evolve and go through multiple changes. There are still some remnants from that time, but there was something about SoMa that used to feel very industrial and creative, filled with artists, working-class people. It had an edginess. Through the years it has turned into mostly a tech neighborhood with echoes of that gritty, innovative atmosphere.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To be here and have my own roots feels just as important because of Filipino Americans and their history in this neighborhood. I came to this city to connect with my Filipino roots. When the neighborhood was designated as the Filipino Cultural District in 2017, it was a reawakening for me. It actually coincided with the opening of the previous Mestiza. I had been open for a year and a half before that. It was a big moment of discovery, a journey to reconnect with what it meant to be Filipino American. To be in this neighborhood. To continue that legacy that preceded my time here. It was important for me to stay in this neighborhood for those cultural and practical reasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961824\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961824\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-04-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-04-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-04-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-04-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-04-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-04-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-04-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-04-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sison sits with her mother, who is a frequent presence at the restaurant. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I imagine Filipinos in Florida weren’t extremely visible back then. Or were they?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It didn’t feel huge. In my younger years, the Filipinos would sometimes get together. It didn’t feel like I was hanging out with Filipinos a lot though. Only during family gatherings in the community. Maybe once a month at a local park. For important celebrations. But in my school there were only one or two others. It didn’t feel as prevalent [as it does in the Bay Area].\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Your mom was watering the plants when I visited. She told me she grew up in the Philippines as one out of nine children. What’s her connection to this area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mom was born in San Francisco and moved back to the Philippines and was raised there. But she came back to San Francisco eventually. There was just something in the ether about coming back here. It’s the only place I would choose to live anywhere in the country. Not LA. Not New York City. I actually did New York for a while. San Francisco is geographically my home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Have you ever been to the Philippines? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve only been twice in my life. The first time I was seven years old. It was eye-opening. The role that food plays in everyday life is extremely important. It’s the connector between everyone. There was never a table that didn’t have food on it. As a kid, being at my aunt’s house, they’d go out and kill a chicken to put on the table that night. They made fresh coconut milk. All of the activities of making food: preparing it, serving it, enjoying it. Food is just such a big part of your daily experience. When I went back in my 20s, I basically went from one meal to the next. Big tables laden with food. Maybe coffee in between. Food is just a magnet to come and gather and connect. I remember that clearly. Memories are captured in the taste, flavors, smells of food. Sometimes no one even had to speak. We had food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your background in the culinary world? When did you get into the food industry?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I always had second and third jobs in food service throughout my life. My first job was at Burger King. I worked in fast food, cocktailing, bussing, baking. On and on. I’ve had every role in a restaurant. Even when I was taking up jobs in film, I had a second or third job at a restaurant or bar. I found the perfect job on Craigslist working for an indie production company that created cooking shows. It was a PBS show. That was my favorite. I just wanted to watch those PBS cooking shows as a kid (laughs). Not cartoons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The producer was at KQED, and she started \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/jacquespepin\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a> and a few other series. They branched off to producing their own shows and distribution. They needed a production assistant. I ended up getting the job, and she was amazed at what I knew about cooking shows. I was there for five, six years. That was eye-opening for not just food and restaurants, but food culture. In that role I was able to go and read cookbooks, meet authors, professors, teachers. Cooking techniques. We were filming, but we had to prep a lot of food that would be aired on segments. I learned a lot that way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961829\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961829\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-16-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-16-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-16-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-16-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-16-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-16-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-16-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-16-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Syl Mislang prepares an order of calabasa coconut curry. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How has the concept of Mestiza evolved over time, especially since closing in 2020? You took four years to re-open it.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I first opened, the space I took over was a taqueria that I knew from my time working in SoMa. I wanted to preserve that concept of a taqueria. Having experienced it in the neighborhood, I felt it was an important thing. But I wanted to bring my own heritage to the mix. That was the original Mestiza. It was a celebration of the Mexican and Filipino connection. There was a trade route for 200 years between Manila and Mexico, and we were both colonized by the Spaniards. We share a lot of cultural aspects. Catholicism. Holidays. Our names. Ingredients. So we made the menu around that fusion. Then we closed in 2020 because of the pandemic. We flirted with staying partially open, but it just didn’t work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until about 2022, I had been thinking about it but not really planning on reopening it. Some developers approached me to bring the concept to certain locations. It never felt right. Then, this spot around the corner from Little Skillet and Victory Hall opened up. I remember it from my 20s, a little Caribbean lunch spot with sangrias all day long that I enjoyed. It felt like it could be the perfect place for a new iteration of Mestiza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Where did the idea of doing more plant-forward dishes originate? What are the joys and challenges with that — especially since Filipino food can be very meat-heavy?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13938479,arts_13959765,arts_13956683']\u003c/span>That was a long process. COVID definitely was the only opportunity that I had to really evaluate my habits, our behaviors as a society. What do we put into our bodies? How important is our health? My dad had gout and high cholesterol and died of a heart attack. I have cousins with diabetes. So many of our illnesses are related to our diets. During COVID I experimented with all kinds of diets. Gluten-free. Plant-only. Plant-forward. Exercising. It had a profound impact on how I felt, my energy. Knowing I felt healthier during that scary time of sickness made me realize we should be healthier and better to ourselves. That informed my decision.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I thought about doing fully plant-based, but I felt, personally, that my body needs different kinds of protein. It doesn’t have to be such a drastic change in your diet. It can be incremental. It’s healthy for us, and the planet, to have choices. Being plant-forward means focusing on plants and minimizing the amount of meats we use, but it doesn’t completely exclude meat. I don’t know that going strictly plant based is 100% healthy for everyone’s body. But it’s lighter, easier to digest, and even more nurturing in some ways, with other nutritious vitamins and minerals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961831\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961831\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-29-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-29-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-29-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-29-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-29-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-29-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-29-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-29-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An abundant spread of pulled pork adobo and shrimp gambas. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Who else is doing plant-based Filipino cuisine around here?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reina [Montenegro] helped me in the beginning to go plant-based. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chef.reina/?hl=en\">Chef Reina\u003c/a> has a spot in Brisbane. It’s vegan Filipino. She helped me a lot in my exploration of that idea. Just trying to extract the best flavors and texture from Filipino food. Shout out Chef Reina.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are your favorite places to get Filipino food in the Bay?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is a strong community of Filipino and Filipino Americans doing work right now in the Bay Area. We’re all pretty tight and encourage each other. Sarap Shop. Ox and Tiger. Abaca. That’s top-notch fine dining Filipino. It’s kind of its own genre. Chef Harold Villarosa helped me out; he has spots all over the country. Tselogs, a super solid restaurant with great food. I’m just impressed by the community we have in general. Everyone is super dope. [Chef Alex Retodo from] Lumpia Company has partnered with E-40, I love them. [They] bring so much of that Bay Area culture, and I respect them as business owners. Señor Sisig, with chefs Evan and Gil. Oh, and there was this one kamayan restaurant in SoMa. About six years ago, we took our whole staff there and it was a great experience that we still talk about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Can you tell me more about the kamayan feast you host?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kamayan feast is offered any night of the week for a minimum reservation of four people or more. We used to only do it twice a week, but it’s so heavily requested now. It comes from the idea of hands, eating with your hands. The experience incorporates all of your senses. Seeing something gorgeous, touching it, tasting it, smelling it. It’s tactile. It’s communal and meant to be shared with others. It’s similar to sitting at my grandmother’s table. There’s something fulfilling when you share an experience full of joy with others. That creates memories, and it becomes an indelible memory when you use all of your sense. That’s what resonates. We love seeing people’s reactions when we bring a board to the table. We’re here in service of our community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961827\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961827\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-14-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-14-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-14-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-14-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-14-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-14-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-14-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-14-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The lumpia at Mestiza measure 13 inches long. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Very important question: How long is the lumpia at Mestiza? I’ve honestly never seen one that length. What’s your secret?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ummmm (laughs). I think it’s 13 inches. We just leave our ends open. I like those crispy ends. You have to get the filling to a right consistency so it doesn’t fall out. Roll it open ended. Frozen. And fried. I love it.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mestizasf/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Mestiza\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (214 Townsend St., San Francisco) is open Tues. through Sat. from 11:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/hellahungry\">\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry!\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a series of interviews with Bay Area foodmakers exploring the region’s culinary innovations through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">O\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>perating a restaurant in San Francisco isn’t for the faint-hearted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a \u003ci>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/i> column published earlier this year, former restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/opinion/article/san-francisco-restaurant-small-business-18494773.php\">critic Soleil Ho outlined the debilitating costs of running a food business in a city\u003c/a> where even the most heralded institutions straddle a precarious tightrope “between stability and destitution.” In Ho’s eyes, the American notion of getting rewarded for hard work is merely a “fairy tale” — and that’s especially apparent in \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/sales-revenue-san-francisco-18659409.php\">the local restaurant industry’s recent struggles\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don’t tell Deanna Sison, though. As a savvy Filipina American hustler who operates a chicken-and-waffles spot (\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/littleskilletsf/?hl=en\">Little Skillet\u003c/a>) inside a cocktail bar (\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/victoryhallsf/?hl=en\">Victory Hall\u003c/a>) in Frisco’s SoMa district, Sison is far from feeble-spirited.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, she’s doubling — tripling? — down on her vision by re-launching Mestiza, the fast-casual Filipino noshery she opened in 2016. After the restaurant shuttered in 2020 due to the pandemic, most people would have just walked away. Not Sison.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961825\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961825\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-07-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-07-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-07-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-07-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-07-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-07-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-07-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-07-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Deanna Sison poses for a portrait at her restaurant Mestiza, which reopened at a new location in SoMa in April 2024. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Open since April, Mestiza blooms again in a fresh, open-air venue with a vegetarian-friendly twist that isn’t usually at the forefront of Filipino cuisine. The revamped menu features a 13-inch lumpia roll stuffed with sweet potato, shaved Brussels sprouts and water chestnuts, served with pineapple-chili dipping sauce; flamed kofta skewers made from mashed chickpeas; crunchy quinoa-and-mint salad tossed with spicy mango-jalapeño slaw and tamarind vinaigrette; and for those with a sweet tooth, oat milk vanilla soft-serve doused with chili crisps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant additionally offers a bold kamayan dinner meant to be eaten with one’s bare hands: an island-style platter for large groups served on giant banana leaves piled high with fish, fruit, vegetables and lumpia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The vegan-leaning offerings are at once succulent, tropical and abundant — a reflection of both Sison’s health-conscious dietary shifts and chef Syl Mislang’s heritage as a Filipina Mexican. There’s also a hefty dose of savory proteins like pork adobo, grilled shrimp and cured pork belly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I visited Sison at the new location, I could see why she refused to let it all go. A sense of place (there’s a vibrant \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/indiangiver\">Cheyenne Randall\u003c/a> mural on the back wall) and family (Sison’s mother regularly visits to water the patio plants) was palpable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Sison, who has worked in SoMa since arriving in the Bay Area from Florida in 1999, Mestiza is about more than her culinary ambitions. It’s also a reflection of everything she has risked in pursuit of a fuller identity. She came to the Bay Area as a film student eager to build community, particularly among Pinoys, a group she admits was scarce in the American South of the ’80s. Decades later, in Sison’s homebase of San Francisco’s Filipino Cultural District, she hasn’t backed down from her original intentions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961823\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961823\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-02-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-02-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-02-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-02-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-02-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-02-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-02-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-02-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A mural by artist Cheyenne Randall titled ‘Vanilla Sky’ covers the back wall of the restaurant. The mural depicts the Filipina singer Grace Nono. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In its most elemental nature, Mestiza reminds us that, no matter the setbacks, our hunger should never go unattended — especially when that hunger feeds a sense of self.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: What’s your connection to SoMa? I know you’re proud of your roots here.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Deanna Sison:\u003c/b> I was born in Florida, then moved to Germany when I was 10. I moved back to the U.S. when I went to college in Florida, but was always drawn to San Francisco. When I finished school, my one focus was to make it west: to go to San Francisco. The appeal was mainly around the diversity, but also the food culture. I came here in 1999 after college and have been here ever since. My first job was on Natoma Street. I had a Bachelor of Arts in film, and this neighborhood was a hub for independent filmmakers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Whoa, I was not expecting that. What have been the biggest changes in the area since then?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve seen the whole neighborhood evolve and go through multiple changes. There are still some remnants from that time, but there was something about SoMa that used to feel very industrial and creative, filled with artists, working-class people. It had an edginess. Through the years it has turned into mostly a tech neighborhood with echoes of that gritty, innovative atmosphere.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To be here and have my own roots feels just as important because of Filipino Americans and their history in this neighborhood. I came to this city to connect with my Filipino roots. When the neighborhood was designated as the Filipino Cultural District in 2017, it was a reawakening for me. It actually coincided with the opening of the previous Mestiza. I had been open for a year and a half before that. It was a big moment of discovery, a journey to reconnect with what it meant to be Filipino American. To be in this neighborhood. To continue that legacy that preceded my time here. It was important for me to stay in this neighborhood for those cultural and practical reasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961824\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961824\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-04-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-04-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-04-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-04-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-04-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-04-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-04-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-04-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sison sits with her mother, who is a frequent presence at the restaurant. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I imagine Filipinos in Florida weren’t extremely visible back then. Or were they?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It didn’t feel huge. In my younger years, the Filipinos would sometimes get together. It didn’t feel like I was hanging out with Filipinos a lot though. Only during family gatherings in the community. Maybe once a month at a local park. For important celebrations. But in my school there were only one or two others. It didn’t feel as prevalent [as it does in the Bay Area].\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Your mom was watering the plants when I visited. She told me she grew up in the Philippines as one out of nine children. What’s her connection to this area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mom was born in San Francisco and moved back to the Philippines and was raised there. But she came back to San Francisco eventually. There was just something in the ether about coming back here. It’s the only place I would choose to live anywhere in the country. Not LA. Not New York City. I actually did New York for a while. San Francisco is geographically my home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Have you ever been to the Philippines? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve only been twice in my life. The first time I was seven years old. It was eye-opening. The role that food plays in everyday life is extremely important. It’s the connector between everyone. There was never a table that didn’t have food on it. As a kid, being at my aunt’s house, they’d go out and kill a chicken to put on the table that night. They made fresh coconut milk. All of the activities of making food: preparing it, serving it, enjoying it. Food is just such a big part of your daily experience. When I went back in my 20s, I basically went from one meal to the next. Big tables laden with food. Maybe coffee in between. Food is just a magnet to come and gather and connect. I remember that clearly. Memories are captured in the taste, flavors, smells of food. Sometimes no one even had to speak. We had food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your background in the culinary world? When did you get into the food industry?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I always had second and third jobs in food service throughout my life. My first job was at Burger King. I worked in fast food, cocktailing, bussing, baking. On and on. I’ve had every role in a restaurant. Even when I was taking up jobs in film, I had a second or third job at a restaurant or bar. I found the perfect job on Craigslist working for an indie production company that created cooking shows. It was a PBS show. That was my favorite. I just wanted to watch those PBS cooking shows as a kid (laughs). Not cartoons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The producer was at KQED, and she started \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/jacquespepin\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a> and a few other series. They branched off to producing their own shows and distribution. They needed a production assistant. I ended up getting the job, and she was amazed at what I knew about cooking shows. I was there for five, six years. That was eye-opening for not just food and restaurants, but food culture. In that role I was able to go and read cookbooks, meet authors, professors, teachers. Cooking techniques. We were filming, but we had to prep a lot of food that would be aired on segments. I learned a lot that way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961829\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961829\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-16-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-16-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-16-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-16-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-16-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-16-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-16-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-16-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Syl Mislang prepares an order of calabasa coconut curry. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How has the concept of Mestiza evolved over time, especially since closing in 2020? You took four years to re-open it.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I first opened, the space I took over was a taqueria that I knew from my time working in SoMa. I wanted to preserve that concept of a taqueria. Having experienced it in the neighborhood, I felt it was an important thing. But I wanted to bring my own heritage to the mix. That was the original Mestiza. It was a celebration of the Mexican and Filipino connection. There was a trade route for 200 years between Manila and Mexico, and we were both colonized by the Spaniards. We share a lot of cultural aspects. Catholicism. Holidays. Our names. Ingredients. So we made the menu around that fusion. Then we closed in 2020 because of the pandemic. We flirted with staying partially open, but it just didn’t work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until about 2022, I had been thinking about it but not really planning on reopening it. Some developers approached me to bring the concept to certain locations. It never felt right. Then, this spot around the corner from Little Skillet and Victory Hall opened up. I remember it from my 20s, a little Caribbean lunch spot with sangrias all day long that I enjoyed. It felt like it could be the perfect place for a new iteration of Mestiza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Where did the idea of doing more plant-forward dishes originate? What are the joys and challenges with that — especially since Filipino food can be very meat-heavy?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>That was a long process. COVID definitely was the only opportunity that I had to really evaluate my habits, our behaviors as a society. What do we put into our bodies? How important is our health? My dad had gout and high cholesterol and died of a heart attack. I have cousins with diabetes. So many of our illnesses are related to our diets. During COVID I experimented with all kinds of diets. Gluten-free. Plant-only. Plant-forward. Exercising. It had a profound impact on how I felt, my energy. Knowing I felt healthier during that scary time of sickness made me realize we should be healthier and better to ourselves. That informed my decision.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I thought about doing fully plant-based, but I felt, personally, that my body needs different kinds of protein. It doesn’t have to be such a drastic change in your diet. It can be incremental. It’s healthy for us, and the planet, to have choices. Being plant-forward means focusing on plants and minimizing the amount of meats we use, but it doesn’t completely exclude meat. I don’t know that going strictly plant based is 100% healthy for everyone’s body. But it’s lighter, easier to digest, and even more nurturing in some ways, with other nutritious vitamins and minerals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961831\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961831\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-29-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-29-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-29-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-29-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-29-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-29-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-29-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-29-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An abundant spread of pulled pork adobo and shrimp gambas. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Who else is doing plant-based Filipino cuisine around here?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reina [Montenegro] helped me in the beginning to go plant-based. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chef.reina/?hl=en\">Chef Reina\u003c/a> has a spot in Brisbane. It’s vegan Filipino. She helped me a lot in my exploration of that idea. Just trying to extract the best flavors and texture from Filipino food. Shout out Chef Reina.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are your favorite places to get Filipino food in the Bay?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is a strong community of Filipino and Filipino Americans doing work right now in the Bay Area. We’re all pretty tight and encourage each other. Sarap Shop. Ox and Tiger. Abaca. That’s top-notch fine dining Filipino. It’s kind of its own genre. Chef Harold Villarosa helped me out; he has spots all over the country. Tselogs, a super solid restaurant with great food. I’m just impressed by the community we have in general. Everyone is super dope. [Chef Alex Retodo from] Lumpia Company has partnered with E-40, I love them. [They] bring so much of that Bay Area culture, and I respect them as business owners. Señor Sisig, with chefs Evan and Gil. Oh, and there was this one kamayan restaurant in SoMa. About six years ago, we took our whole staff there and it was a great experience that we still talk about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Can you tell me more about the kamayan feast you host?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kamayan feast is offered any night of the week for a minimum reservation of four people or more. We used to only do it twice a week, but it’s so heavily requested now. It comes from the idea of hands, eating with your hands. The experience incorporates all of your senses. Seeing something gorgeous, touching it, tasting it, smelling it. It’s tactile. It’s communal and meant to be shared with others. It’s similar to sitting at my grandmother’s table. There’s something fulfilling when you share an experience full of joy with others. That creates memories, and it becomes an indelible memory when you use all of your sense. That’s what resonates. We love seeing people’s reactions when we bring a board to the table. We’re here in service of our community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961827\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961827\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-14-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-14-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-14-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-14-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-14-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-14-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-14-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240730-MESTIZA-14-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The lumpia at Mestiza measure 13 inches long. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Very important question: How long is the lumpia at Mestiza? I’ve honestly never seen one that length. What’s your secret?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ummmm (laughs). I think it’s 13 inches. We just leave our ends open. I like those crispy ends. You have to get the filling to a right consistency so it doesn’t fall out. Roll it open ended. Frozen. And fried. I love it.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mestizasf/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Mestiza\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (214 Townsend St., San Francisco) is open Tues. through Sat. from 11:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "silver-crest-closed-sf-donut-shop",
"title": "R.I.P., Silver Crest Donut Shop",
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"content": "\u003cp>And so it has finally closed, the portal to another dimension, the 24-hour purveyor of eggs and cigarettes and baked goods that claimed to be donuts, the David Lynch film come to life right here in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m talking, of course, about \u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/california/story/2023-12-23/silver-crest-donut-24-hour-business-battle-to-stay-open\">Silver Crest\u003c/a>, the donut shop on Bayshore Boulevard that improbably stayed open for over 50 years, becoming a San Francisco institution. Along the way, it also became a restaurant and bar, a hangout for drunks, a set for photoshoots and at least \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/lcqwfFKagH4?feature=shared\">one music video\u003c/a>, and a late-night “Heyyy, you wanna see something \u003cem>really\u003c/em> weird?” double-dare for area teenagers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/silver-crest-donut-shop-closed-19606798.php\">reports\u003c/a>, Silver Crest was boarded up Monday, seemingly for good. My immediate reaction was conflicting feelings of shock that such an institution could ever close and wonder that it lasted so long.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You see, I actually \u003cem>went\u003c/em> to Silver Crest, at least when I was in the area. I never ventured into the bar in the back, but I regularly sidled up and bought a donut to go. Like the Old Clam House just down the boulevard, it seemed like a place that deserved support while it was around, instead of mourned when it was gone. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961796\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SilverCrest.Counter.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1520\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961796\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SilverCrest.Counter.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SilverCrest.Counter-800x608.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SilverCrest.Counter-1020x775.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SilverCrest.Counter-160x122.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SilverCrest.Counter-768x584.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SilverCrest.Counter-1536x1167.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SilverCrest.Counter-1920x1459.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Silver Crest was co-owned by George and Nina Giavris, who opened it in 1970. \u003ccite>(Gabe Meline/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you also went to Silver Crest, you already know the ambiance. A fading menu, posted above a formica lunch counter with fixed seats. Usually empty. “CASH ONLY” signs. Countertop jukeboxes that didn’t work. Five wooden 1950s pinball machines against the wall that amazingly did work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And to the left, tended to by an older woman who’d eventually emerge from the bar area: a cash register, a row of cigarettes, a sad houseplant, and a display case of donuts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Were they donuts, though? Those five-inch-diameter puffs of dry bread, topped with a tart glaze that only made them taste weirder?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just last week, on the way back from SFO, I suggested to my wife that we stop at Silver Crest. “I don’t like donuts,” she said. “You know that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Oh, but these are not really donuts,” I replied. “In fact, I’m not even sure if Silver Crest is a real place that exists on this Earth.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I couldn’t talk her into it, the way I talked other friends into visiting Silver Crest with me, always late at night. The owners, George and Nina Giavris, routinely said in interviews that they lost the front door key years ago. The neon sign out front still boasts — at least until someone steals it — “WE NEVER CLOSE.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, Silver Crest finally closed. It may not have been as popular as Tommy’s Joynt, or as enduring as Red’s Java House. But it did feel like a misunderstood runt of that particular family, and San Francisco will be a little less surreal without it. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>And so it has finally closed, the portal to another dimension, the 24-hour purveyor of eggs and cigarettes and baked goods that claimed to be donuts, the David Lynch film come to life right here in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m talking, of course, about \u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/california/story/2023-12-23/silver-crest-donut-24-hour-business-battle-to-stay-open\">Silver Crest\u003c/a>, the donut shop on Bayshore Boulevard that improbably stayed open for over 50 years, becoming a San Francisco institution. Along the way, it also became a restaurant and bar, a hangout for drunks, a set for photoshoots and at least \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/lcqwfFKagH4?feature=shared\">one music video\u003c/a>, and a late-night “Heyyy, you wanna see something \u003cem>really\u003c/em> weird?” double-dare for area teenagers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/silver-crest-donut-shop-closed-19606798.php\">reports\u003c/a>, Silver Crest was boarded up Monday, seemingly for good. My immediate reaction was conflicting feelings of shock that such an institution could ever close and wonder that it lasted so long.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You see, I actually \u003cem>went\u003c/em> to Silver Crest, at least when I was in the area. I never ventured into the bar in the back, but I regularly sidled up and bought a donut to go. Like the Old Clam House just down the boulevard, it seemed like a place that deserved support while it was around, instead of mourned when it was gone. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961796\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SilverCrest.Counter.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1520\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961796\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SilverCrest.Counter.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SilverCrest.Counter-800x608.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SilverCrest.Counter-1020x775.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SilverCrest.Counter-160x122.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SilverCrest.Counter-768x584.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SilverCrest.Counter-1536x1167.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/SilverCrest.Counter-1920x1459.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Silver Crest was co-owned by George and Nina Giavris, who opened it in 1970. \u003ccite>(Gabe Meline/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you also went to Silver Crest, you already know the ambiance. A fading menu, posted above a formica lunch counter with fixed seats. Usually empty. “CASH ONLY” signs. Countertop jukeboxes that didn’t work. Five wooden 1950s pinball machines against the wall that amazingly did work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And to the left, tended to by an older woman who’d eventually emerge from the bar area: a cash register, a row of cigarettes, a sad houseplant, and a display case of donuts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Were they donuts, though? Those five-inch-diameter puffs of dry bread, topped with a tart glaze that only made them taste weirder?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just last week, on the way back from SFO, I suggested to my wife that we stop at Silver Crest. “I don’t like donuts,” she said. “You know that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Oh, but these are not really donuts,” I replied. “In fact, I’m not even sure if Silver Crest is a real place that exists on this Earth.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I couldn’t talk her into it, the way I talked other friends into visiting Silver Crest with me, always late at night. The owners, George and Nina Giavris, routinely said in interviews that they lost the front door key years ago. The neon sign out front still boasts — at least until someone steals it — “WE NEVER CLOSE.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, Silver Crest finally closed. It may not have been as popular as Tommy’s Joynt, or as enduring as Red’s Java House. But it did feel like a misunderstood runt of that particular family, and San Francisco will be a little less surreal without it. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "nail-tech-foodie-sf-ingleside-vietnamese-bay-area",
"title": "Why My Nail Tech Is My Favorite Bay Area Foodie",
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"headTitle": "Why My Nail Tech Is My Favorite Bay Area Foodie | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Frisco Foodies is a recurring column in which a San Francisco local shares food memories of growing up in a now rapidly changing city.\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[dropcap]I[/dropcap] got my first set of acrylic nails at a Vietnamese-owned nail shop at the corner of Persia and Mission: They were long and slightly curved, painted a frosty royal blue and emblazoned with white airbrush flames more suited to a Monte Carlo than a manicure. In a world before touchscreen ruled our devices, I loved the clickety-clack of plastic on computer keys. It was like having tiny masterpieces on the tips of my fingers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a lover of hip-hop streetwear, it was a necessary luxury — $20 for a full set, back then — that dressed up the baggiest of sweatpants. But going to the shop was rough. You might run into a drunk from the liquor store next door or get “hood-checked” waiting outside for your BFF to arrive on the bus. The corner was active, and the inside of the shop was even more chaotic and fraught with conflict.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961773\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13961773\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Burton-Sr-Prom-800x800.jpg\" alt=\"A young women with intricately designed painted nails poses for a portrait with a young man.\" width=\"800\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Burton-Sr-Prom-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Burton-Sr-Prom-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Burton-Sr-Prom-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Burton-Sr-Prom-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Burton-Sr-Prom-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Burton-Sr-Prom.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">On prom night, a young Rocky Rivera (right) shows off her intricately designed acrylic nails. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Rocky Rivera)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When there was a dispute about the cost or design, Asian service workers and their clientele sometimes lashed out at each other, and the language barrier rarely allowed the communication it takes to describe an intricate design. It was no wonder that friendships between nail techs and their customers rarely blossomed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nowadays, I have a standing three-week appointment at Linda’s Ocean Nails on Ocean and Ashton Avenue — one I haven’t broken since the start of the pandemic, when owner Christine “Chris” Phung reopened her Ingleside district shop for her regulars, and the two of us became friends. Our relationship solidified when she recreated my favorite car’s logo: an ’87 Buick Grand National orange-and-yellow arrow that mimicked the car’s legendary turbocharged V6 engine. Since then, we’ve collaborated on the gorgeous turquoise of a San Francisco garter snake and, \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/contrib/112733447121314366844?hl=en-US&ved=1t:31294&ictx=111\">my personal favorite\u003c/a>, a matte military desert camouflage design that matched my Air Max 1s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every new design becomes our new favorite until the next. And our love for San Francisco and shared background growing up here made it easy for us to get along.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I gotta like you to hold your hand for two hours,” she always tells me. It’s not often that locals like me stop on Ocean Avenue, even though it’s a main thoroughfare linking the 280 freeway entrance in Mission Terrace to the beach. The Ingleside neighborhood’s meandering stoplights, double-parked grocery trucks and heavy traffic create a stop-and-go situation that requires patience, not to mention a deft lane change from time to time. It’s not a destination, though people like Chris want to change that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957506\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957506\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-2-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A nail salon worker works on a client's nails.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-2-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-2-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-2-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-2-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-2-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-2-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-2-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chris Phung, a nail tech for over 20 years, works on Rocky Rivera’s nails at Linda’s Ocean Nails, her salon in San Francisco’s Ingleside neighborhood. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chris is the ultimate foodie, too, often choosing her mom’s home cooking over the myriad Vietnamese restaurants in the city. When she does eat out, it’s for specialties she can only get at some particular spot, her taste honed from her years growing up in the Sunset district. Whether it’s the latest boba spot or a hot new dumpling shop, I trust her opinion on whether it’s worth all the hype.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On sunny Monday in May, the shop is closed for the day, and Chris is only doing my nails so we can hang out afterward at her favorite places on Ocean — a privilege I never thought I’d experience with my nail tech. I pull up a photo from my nail inspo board on IG and show it to her; she laughs and tells me her sister sent the same video just the day before. It’s proof to us that we are usually on the same wavelength when it comes to trendy design choices. We settle on a snake-inspired holographic design. She carefully applies a builder gel to the length of my existing natural nail, an upgrade from the acrylic tips we started out with when I first came to the shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957507\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957507\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-3-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Close-up of nails being finished with a black dots on a pink design.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1354\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-3-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-3-KQED-800x542.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-3-KQED-1020x691.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-3-KQED-160x108.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-3-KQED-768x520.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-3-KQED-1536x1040.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-3-KQED-1920x1300.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">‘Every new design becomes our new favorite until the next,’ Rivera writes of her collaborative relationship with Phung. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After we finish our set, we grab a bite across the street at Little Sweet, a Hong Kong street food eatery (not affiliated with the boba chain of the same name) that wound up closing in June. Chris had become friends with chef-owner Zoe Mak as a nail client, and Mak brought Chris dishes to test out before the business officially opened this past February.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Born and raised in Hong Kong before immigrating to the U.S. when she was 12 years old, Mak started the restaurant together with her bestie and business partner Flora Lam, a former marketing specialist whose husband is also from Hong Kong. The name, like the shop’s homemade milk tea, is “not too sweet” — the ultimate compliment for an Asian dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much of the signage and menu was in Chinese, so Chris orders me her faves from Little Sweet’s menu of Hong Kong-style dishes: the curry fish balls, garlic spareribs over rice, sticky soy sauce wings and, for dessert, an interestingly chewy papaya-and-sweet-fungus dish with a texture akin to tripe. The food is somewhere between post-bar-hop late-night munchies and the kind of snacks you’d find at a boba shop. Chris orders a side of rice to pour the extra curry over — her favorite menu hack. And while Mak is in the back, Chris herself attends to customers walking in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957508\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957508\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-12-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of soy-glazed and a small dish of curry.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1318\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-12-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-12-KQED-800x527.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-12-KQED-1020x672.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-12-KQED-160x105.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-12-KQED-768x506.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-12-KQED-1536x1012.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-12-KQED-1920x1265.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Curry fishballs and special honey-flavored soy sauce wings at Little Sweet. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I think it’s really important to love your neighbor and support them,” Mak says. She wanted a cafe in the Ingleside just like the ones she grew up going to in Hong Kong. “Maybe people know more Mission, but not Ingleside. We’re a little bit lost. We’re like a mystery place for people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the end, all the local support still couldn’t save Little Sweet. From the very beginning, the shop suffered many setbacks, including an overnight burglary that delayed its opening. It wound up closing after just four months — news that devastates Chris when she hears it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I feel that she’s so young and works so hard, and she’s so passionate about the restaurant business, you know? I just wanted to see her succeed.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961767\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961767\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-18_qed.jpg\" alt=\"Two Asian women with long hair pose for a portrait inside a restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-18_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-18_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-18_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-18_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-18_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-18_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-18_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zoe Mak, left, chef of Little Sweet, and her business partner Flora Lam pose for a portrait inside Little Sweet. The Ingleside restaurant closed in June 2024. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[dropcap]I[/dropcap] knew Chris was like family to me when once, during a power outage, she grabbed her tools and invited me to her house. She spread a plastic tarp and did my fill-in right there on her dining room table. “Only for you, Rocky!” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Born in Vietnam, Chris left her birth country after the war because her father was of Chinese descent and was no longer welcome. They went from refugee camp to refugee camp, even living in the Philippines for a time, before finally coming to America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She grew up in the Sunset district, attending Jefferson Elementary, Hoover Middle and Lincoln High before heading down the street to attend San Francisco State. “When we first came, everything was very difficult. We were on all sorts of [financial] assistance,” she recalls. Both of her parents worked at a sewing factory and were on welfare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13959765,arts_13929836,arts_13961328']\u003c/span>Before she opened Linda’s Ocean Nails, Chris worked at another nail salon down the street for 10 years alongside her mom while also working part-time at Wells Fargo. After majoring in accounting at San Francisco State, she decided to open the nail salon instead of becoming an accountant so that her mom could work for her and get the treatment she deserved. “I came back here and I decided to run the place myself because, you know, with the language barrier, my mom’s English was not that well, and I see her struggling with the business she’s at,” she remembers. That was in 1998. Her younger sisters, Bella and Cindy, joined them later after both acquired their cosmetology licenses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the time of our meeting, her mom and dad were in Vietnam on holiday, visiting friends and family they once left behind. Though it took tremendous sacrifice for Chris to keep the salon running during the pandemic and through her sisters’ multiple maternity leaves — at one point she was the shop’s lone nail tech — she was able to raise her two kids with her husband, with one daughter graduating from Lowell High School and UC Davis, while purchasing a home in the adjacent Lakeview district.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957511\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957511\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-20-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Two women sit at a booth and sip tea inside a restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-20-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-20-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-20-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-20-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-20-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-20-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-20-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Phung and Rivera sit inside Pho Ha Tien, a Vietnamese restaurant in Ingleside. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After our first lunch stop, we cross back over Ocean to Pho Ha Tien, the Vietnamese eatery right next to Chris’s shop, to meet owner Steve Cheng. Though I’m already pretty full, I always have room for pho, and their chicken pho broth turns out to be perfectly clear and abundantly seasoned. But the standout dish is their special five-spice chicken thigh, which comes deboned and served with rice — an easy dinner that Chris orders for her family every time her mom is out of the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cheng also is a City kid, graduating from Redding Elementary in the Tenderloin, Marina Middle School and a year before Chris at Lincoln High. Like Chris, he took over the family business to “semi-retire” his parents, who now come in whenever they want to help or just hang out. “You can tell them to stay home and they’re like, ‘What am I gonna do at home?’” Cheng laughs. With three kids of his own, and two in their twenties, I ask if he wants to pass the business on to them. “To be honest, I don’t want them anywhere near the restaurant business,” he responds, shaking his head.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s tough,” Chris agrees. During the pandemic, her landlord didn’t give the nail salon much of a break in rent, saying that they had bills to pay, too. It took a long nine months for her to open back up. In the case of Cheng’s restaurant, it took two months. He owed back pay, and the landlord still added the yearly rental increase. Both businesses just barely survived their hardest year to date, and it’s still unclear whether things are getting better or worse. “It is what it is, you just gotta weather through it,” says Cheng.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957512\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957512\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-22-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A spread of Vietnamese dishes, include pho, shrimp over vermicelli noodles, and grilled chicken thighs.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-22-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-22-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-22-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-22-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-22-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-22-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-22-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">From left, five-spice chicken, chicken pho and a charbroiled shrimp vermicelli bowl are some of Pho Ha Tien’s homey Vietnamese dishes. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though San Francisco allowed businesses to get out of long-term leases during the pandemic, it never gave shops like Linda’s Ocean Nails and Pho Ha Tien an incentive to stay. Once the CVS down across the street closed, Cheng noticed the decrease in foot traffic, and even more so when the Target down the block followed suit. “It’s kind of like a domino effect. You see these small businesses and it’s like, if these big franchises closed down, what chance do we have? Now every single block that you go to, there’s a minimum of three to five places shut down. You see, I can count it from here,” he says, gesturing toward the window.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before, all three businesses were open late, and Chris would often unwind after work by ordering food and patronizing the nearby shops. There even used to be live music playing across the street. But now she takes her last client at 6:30 p.m. for safety reasons, wondering if Little Sweet’s late hours and frequent break-ins contributed to its closing. “We need mom-and-pop stores around here, especially on Ocean Ave.,” she says. But the neighborhood’s recent challenges need specialized attention from the city that goes beyond pandemic measures that many immigrant-run businesses did not take full advantage of anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961768\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961768\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-25_qed.jpg\" alt=\"Two women eating noodles with a spread of Vietnamese food on the table in front of them.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-25_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-25_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-25_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-25_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-25_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-25_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-25_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">‘I always have room for pho,’ Rivera says. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are some glimmers of hope on the block, however. Some places were able to pivot, like the cafe owned by two brothers that switched up to a pizza shop when business opened back up, and the jumpy house across the street that’s promoting a night market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A night market would be excellent. It would draw people into Ocean Ave. and let them know we exist,” Chris says. But the little things also help — like word-of-mouth from her clients and the string of lights that the city recently installed along the avenue over the holidays. “They put ’em up and it makes it feel so bright and safe and nice. Just being there all those years, those changes make a huge difference.” She wants Ingleside to be a neighborhood where residents mingle and get to know each other.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Like the Sunset, I want to be able to sit outside, drink coffee, enjoy the weather — well maybe not enjoy the weather,” she laughs, knowing she has to be realistic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though I’m hardly around Ocean Ave. in the evenings, this day in Ingleside makes me wonder about the potential of this part of the City I love. I don’t live here or even work here, but every three weeks, I drive across the bridge and make it my destination, rain or shine. Whether it’s for a chromed-out set of reptilian talons or a delicious steaming bowl of pho, I know with Chris working her magic, I’m in good hands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961774\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1911px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961774\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-8_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A woman poses for a portrait in front of a sign inside her nail salon that lists the prices for various services.\" width=\"1911\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-8_qed.jpg 1911w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-8_qed-800x558.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-8_qed-1020x711.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-8_qed-160x112.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-8_qed-768x536.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-8_qed-1536x1071.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1911px) 100vw, 1911px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Phung poses for a portrait inside her family-ran nail salon in Ingleside. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13921079/mom-tribute-dia-de-los-muertos-filipino-food-altar-frisco-foodies\">Rocky Rivera\u003c/a> is a journalist, emcee, author and activist from San Francisco. She has four musical projects out, three of those with her label Beatrock Music. She released her first book, entitled \u003c/em>Snakeskin: Essays by Rocky Rivera, \u003cem>in 2021\u003c/em>\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "My Favorite Bay Area Foodie Is a Vietnamese American Nail Tech | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Frisco Foodies is a recurring column in which a San Francisco local shares food memories of growing up in a now rapidly changing city.\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">I\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp> got my first set of acrylic nails at a Vietnamese-owned nail shop at the corner of Persia and Mission: They were long and slightly curved, painted a frosty royal blue and emblazoned with white airbrush flames more suited to a Monte Carlo than a manicure. In a world before touchscreen ruled our devices, I loved the clickety-clack of plastic on computer keys. It was like having tiny masterpieces on the tips of my fingers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a lover of hip-hop streetwear, it was a necessary luxury — $20 for a full set, back then — that dressed up the baggiest of sweatpants. But going to the shop was rough. You might run into a drunk from the liquor store next door or get “hood-checked” waiting outside for your BFF to arrive on the bus. The corner was active, and the inside of the shop was even more chaotic and fraught with conflict.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961773\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13961773\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Burton-Sr-Prom-800x800.jpg\" alt=\"A young women with intricately designed painted nails poses for a portrait with a young man.\" width=\"800\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Burton-Sr-Prom-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Burton-Sr-Prom-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Burton-Sr-Prom-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Burton-Sr-Prom-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Burton-Sr-Prom-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Burton-Sr-Prom.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">On prom night, a young Rocky Rivera (right) shows off her intricately designed acrylic nails. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Rocky Rivera)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When there was a dispute about the cost or design, Asian service workers and their clientele sometimes lashed out at each other, and the language barrier rarely allowed the communication it takes to describe an intricate design. It was no wonder that friendships between nail techs and their customers rarely blossomed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nowadays, I have a standing three-week appointment at Linda’s Ocean Nails on Ocean and Ashton Avenue — one I haven’t broken since the start of the pandemic, when owner Christine “Chris” Phung reopened her Ingleside district shop for her regulars, and the two of us became friends. Our relationship solidified when she recreated my favorite car’s logo: an ’87 Buick Grand National orange-and-yellow arrow that mimicked the car’s legendary turbocharged V6 engine. Since then, we’ve collaborated on the gorgeous turquoise of a San Francisco garter snake and, \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/contrib/112733447121314366844?hl=en-US&ved=1t:31294&ictx=111\">my personal favorite\u003c/a>, a matte military desert camouflage design that matched my Air Max 1s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every new design becomes our new favorite until the next. And our love for San Francisco and shared background growing up here made it easy for us to get along.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I gotta like you to hold your hand for two hours,” she always tells me. It’s not often that locals like me stop on Ocean Avenue, even though it’s a main thoroughfare linking the 280 freeway entrance in Mission Terrace to the beach. The Ingleside neighborhood’s meandering stoplights, double-parked grocery trucks and heavy traffic create a stop-and-go situation that requires patience, not to mention a deft lane change from time to time. It’s not a destination, though people like Chris want to change that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957506\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957506\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-2-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A nail salon worker works on a client's nails.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-2-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-2-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-2-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-2-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-2-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-2-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-2-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chris Phung, a nail tech for over 20 years, works on Rocky Rivera’s nails at Linda’s Ocean Nails, her salon in San Francisco’s Ingleside neighborhood. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chris is the ultimate foodie, too, often choosing her mom’s home cooking over the myriad Vietnamese restaurants in the city. When she does eat out, it’s for specialties she can only get at some particular spot, her taste honed from her years growing up in the Sunset district. Whether it’s the latest boba spot or a hot new dumpling shop, I trust her opinion on whether it’s worth all the hype.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On sunny Monday in May, the shop is closed for the day, and Chris is only doing my nails so we can hang out afterward at her favorite places on Ocean — a privilege I never thought I’d experience with my nail tech. I pull up a photo from my nail inspo board on IG and show it to her; she laughs and tells me her sister sent the same video just the day before. It’s proof to us that we are usually on the same wavelength when it comes to trendy design choices. We settle on a snake-inspired holographic design. She carefully applies a builder gel to the length of my existing natural nail, an upgrade from the acrylic tips we started out with when I first came to the shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957507\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957507\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-3-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Close-up of nails being finished with a black dots on a pink design.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1354\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-3-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-3-KQED-800x542.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-3-KQED-1020x691.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-3-KQED-160x108.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-3-KQED-768x520.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-3-KQED-1536x1040.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-3-KQED-1920x1300.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">‘Every new design becomes our new favorite until the next,’ Rivera writes of her collaborative relationship with Phung. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After we finish our set, we grab a bite across the street at Little Sweet, a Hong Kong street food eatery (not affiliated with the boba chain of the same name) that wound up closing in June. Chris had become friends with chef-owner Zoe Mak as a nail client, and Mak brought Chris dishes to test out before the business officially opened this past February.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Born and raised in Hong Kong before immigrating to the U.S. when she was 12 years old, Mak started the restaurant together with her bestie and business partner Flora Lam, a former marketing specialist whose husband is also from Hong Kong. The name, like the shop’s homemade milk tea, is “not too sweet” — the ultimate compliment for an Asian dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much of the signage and menu was in Chinese, so Chris orders me her faves from Little Sweet’s menu of Hong Kong-style dishes: the curry fish balls, garlic spareribs over rice, sticky soy sauce wings and, for dessert, an interestingly chewy papaya-and-sweet-fungus dish with a texture akin to tripe. The food is somewhere between post-bar-hop late-night munchies and the kind of snacks you’d find at a boba shop. Chris orders a side of rice to pour the extra curry over — her favorite menu hack. And while Mak is in the back, Chris herself attends to customers walking in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957508\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957508\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-12-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of soy-glazed and a small dish of curry.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1318\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-12-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-12-KQED-800x527.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-12-KQED-1020x672.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-12-KQED-160x105.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-12-KQED-768x506.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-12-KQED-1536x1012.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-12-KQED-1920x1265.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Curry fishballs and special honey-flavored soy sauce wings at Little Sweet. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I think it’s really important to love your neighbor and support them,” Mak says. She wanted a cafe in the Ingleside just like the ones she grew up going to in Hong Kong. “Maybe people know more Mission, but not Ingleside. We’re a little bit lost. We’re like a mystery place for people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the end, all the local support still couldn’t save Little Sweet. From the very beginning, the shop suffered many setbacks, including an overnight burglary that delayed its opening. It wound up closing after just four months — news that devastates Chris when she hears it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I feel that she’s so young and works so hard, and she’s so passionate about the restaurant business, you know? I just wanted to see her succeed.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961767\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961767\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-18_qed.jpg\" alt=\"Two Asian women with long hair pose for a portrait inside a restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-18_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-18_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-18_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-18_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-18_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-18_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-18_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zoe Mak, left, chef of Little Sweet, and her business partner Flora Lam pose for a portrait inside Little Sweet. The Ingleside restaurant closed in June 2024. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">I\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp> knew Chris was like family to me when once, during a power outage, she grabbed her tools and invited me to her house. She spread a plastic tarp and did my fill-in right there on her dining room table. “Only for you, Rocky!” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Born in Vietnam, Chris left her birth country after the war because her father was of Chinese descent and was no longer welcome. They went from refugee camp to refugee camp, even living in the Philippines for a time, before finally coming to America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She grew up in the Sunset district, attending Jefferson Elementary, Hoover Middle and Lincoln High before heading down the street to attend San Francisco State. “When we first came, everything was very difficult. We were on all sorts of [financial] assistance,” she recalls. Both of her parents worked at a sewing factory and were on welfare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Before she opened Linda’s Ocean Nails, Chris worked at another nail salon down the street for 10 years alongside her mom while also working part-time at Wells Fargo. After majoring in accounting at San Francisco State, she decided to open the nail salon instead of becoming an accountant so that her mom could work for her and get the treatment she deserved. “I came back here and I decided to run the place myself because, you know, with the language barrier, my mom’s English was not that well, and I see her struggling with the business she’s at,” she remembers. That was in 1998. Her younger sisters, Bella and Cindy, joined them later after both acquired their cosmetology licenses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the time of our meeting, her mom and dad were in Vietnam on holiday, visiting friends and family they once left behind. Though it took tremendous sacrifice for Chris to keep the salon running during the pandemic and through her sisters’ multiple maternity leaves — at one point she was the shop’s lone nail tech — she was able to raise her two kids with her husband, with one daughter graduating from Lowell High School and UC Davis, while purchasing a home in the adjacent Lakeview district.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957511\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957511\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-20-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Two women sit at a booth and sip tea inside a restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-20-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-20-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-20-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-20-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-20-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-20-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-20-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Phung and Rivera sit inside Pho Ha Tien, a Vietnamese restaurant in Ingleside. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After our first lunch stop, we cross back over Ocean to Pho Ha Tien, the Vietnamese eatery right next to Chris’s shop, to meet owner Steve Cheng. Though I’m already pretty full, I always have room for pho, and their chicken pho broth turns out to be perfectly clear and abundantly seasoned. But the standout dish is their special five-spice chicken thigh, which comes deboned and served with rice — an easy dinner that Chris orders for her family every time her mom is out of the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cheng also is a City kid, graduating from Redding Elementary in the Tenderloin, Marina Middle School and a year before Chris at Lincoln High. Like Chris, he took over the family business to “semi-retire” his parents, who now come in whenever they want to help or just hang out. “You can tell them to stay home and they’re like, ‘What am I gonna do at home?’” Cheng laughs. With three kids of his own, and two in their twenties, I ask if he wants to pass the business on to them. “To be honest, I don’t want them anywhere near the restaurant business,” he responds, shaking his head.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s tough,” Chris agrees. During the pandemic, her landlord didn’t give the nail salon much of a break in rent, saying that they had bills to pay, too. It took a long nine months for her to open back up. In the case of Cheng’s restaurant, it took two months. He owed back pay, and the landlord still added the yearly rental increase. Both businesses just barely survived their hardest year to date, and it’s still unclear whether things are getting better or worse. “It is what it is, you just gotta weather through it,” says Cheng.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957512\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957512\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-22-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A spread of Vietnamese dishes, include pho, shrimp over vermicelli noodles, and grilled chicken thighs.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-22-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-22-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-22-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-22-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-22-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-22-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/20240506_NAILTECHFOODIE-22-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">From left, five-spice chicken, chicken pho and a charbroiled shrimp vermicelli bowl are some of Pho Ha Tien’s homey Vietnamese dishes. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though San Francisco allowed businesses to get out of long-term leases during the pandemic, it never gave shops like Linda’s Ocean Nails and Pho Ha Tien an incentive to stay. Once the CVS down across the street closed, Cheng noticed the decrease in foot traffic, and even more so when the Target down the block followed suit. “It’s kind of like a domino effect. You see these small businesses and it’s like, if these big franchises closed down, what chance do we have? Now every single block that you go to, there’s a minimum of three to five places shut down. You see, I can count it from here,” he says, gesturing toward the window.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before, all three businesses were open late, and Chris would often unwind after work by ordering food and patronizing the nearby shops. There even used to be live music playing across the street. But now she takes her last client at 6:30 p.m. for safety reasons, wondering if Little Sweet’s late hours and frequent break-ins contributed to its closing. “We need mom-and-pop stores around here, especially on Ocean Ave.,” she says. But the neighborhood’s recent challenges need specialized attention from the city that goes beyond pandemic measures that many immigrant-run businesses did not take full advantage of anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961768\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961768\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-25_qed.jpg\" alt=\"Two women eating noodles with a spread of Vietnamese food on the table in front of them.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-25_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-25_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-25_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-25_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-25_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-25_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-25_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">‘I always have room for pho,’ Rivera says. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are some glimmers of hope on the block, however. Some places were able to pivot, like the cafe owned by two brothers that switched up to a pizza shop when business opened back up, and the jumpy house across the street that’s promoting a night market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A night market would be excellent. It would draw people into Ocean Ave. and let them know we exist,” Chris says. But the little things also help — like word-of-mouth from her clients and the string of lights that the city recently installed along the avenue over the holidays. “They put ’em up and it makes it feel so bright and safe and nice. Just being there all those years, those changes make a huge difference.” She wants Ingleside to be a neighborhood where residents mingle and get to know each other.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Like the Sunset, I want to be able to sit outside, drink coffee, enjoy the weather — well maybe not enjoy the weather,” she laughs, knowing she has to be realistic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though I’m hardly around Ocean Ave. in the evenings, this day in Ingleside makes me wonder about the potential of this part of the City I love. I don’t live here or even work here, but every three weeks, I drive across the bridge and make it my destination, rain or shine. Whether it’s for a chromed-out set of reptilian talons or a delicious steaming bowl of pho, I know with Chris working her magic, I’m in good hands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961774\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1911px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961774\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-8_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A woman poses for a portrait in front of a sign inside her nail salon that lists the prices for various services.\" width=\"1911\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-8_qed.jpg 1911w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-8_qed-800x558.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-8_qed-1020x711.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-8_qed-160x112.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-8_qed-768x536.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/20240506_NailTechFoodie-8_qed-1536x1071.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1911px) 100vw, 1911px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Phung poses for a portrait inside her family-ran nail salon in Ingleside. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13921079/mom-tribute-dia-de-los-muertos-filipino-food-altar-frisco-foodies\">Rocky Rivera\u003c/a> is a journalist, emcee, author and activist from San Francisco. She has four musical projects out, three of those with her label Beatrock Music. She released her first book, entitled \u003c/em>Snakeskin: Essays by Rocky Rivera, \u003cem>in 2021\u003c/em>\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Zareen’s Is a Late-Night Pakistani Food Gem in Palo Alto",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961617\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961617\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men sweating while they eat Indian/Pakistani food.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zareen’s has been a beloved Peninsula institution for the past 10 years, known for its homestyle Pakistani and Indian dishes. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For me, the most scenic vista in Palo Alto isn’t the view from the top of Hoover Tower, or within Gamble Garden’s immaculately manicured grounds, or deep inside a coastal redwood grove, lovely as all of those might be. As of last week, I’ve decided that the most beautiful sight in the entire city is the front patio at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/zareensrestaurant/?hl=en\">Zareen’s\u003c/a> at 10 o’clock on a gorgeous mid-summer night, when the umbrella-bedecked picnic tables are lit up with string lights and bustling with dozens of contented kebab and curry eaters. The vibe was so choice, I started to fall in love even before I took my first bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The beloved Pakistani and Indian restaurant, a staple on the Peninsula for the past 10 years, has two other locations, including the Mountain View original, which opened in 2014. But the Palo Alto Zareen’s is the only one that’s open late — until midnight every day — so that’s where we headed on a recent Friday night, joining the long queue of customers waiting to order at the front counter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13961328,arts_13958041,arts_13952384']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>The menu covers a wide gamut of contemporary Pakistani and Indian food trends. There is, for instance, a whole section devoted to \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13952384/pakistani-desi-burger-fremont-late-night\">desi burgers\u003c/a>, naan wraps and other hybridized street foods that would fit in at any next-generation desi food truck — chapli burgers, fried chicken tikka sandwiches and so forth. Meanwhile, the traditional thali plates, which come with rice, pickles and lentil daal, are perfect for the solo diner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We decided to stick to the kind of cozy, homestyle Indo-Pak dishes upon which Zareen’s first built its reputation. In many ways, the restaurant embodies the apotheosis of fast-casual dining: Within five minutes flat, our order arrives at our patio table piping hot, everything fresh and vibrant as a home-cooked meal. The chicken biryani, a specialty of the restaurant only available on Fridays, is an excellent version of the dish. Each grain of rice is perfectly toothsome, without any clumping, and we couldn’t stop eating the moist, well-spiced chicken and red-tinged potatoes buried underneath. Even better is the lamb gosht, with its tender chunks of meat and rich, savory gravy — the ideal vehicle for Zareen’s outrageously fluffy naan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961619\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961619\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: A bustling front patio of a restaurant (the sign reads, "Zareen's") lit up at night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The front patio at Zareen’s. The restaurant’s Palo Alto location is open until midnight daily. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I have to admit that I may have been profiled just a bit: When I inquired about the gola kebab sizzler, the staff member at the front counter took a quick glance at me and suggested, not unkindly, that the dish might be too spicy for me. Of course — something something toxic masculinity — I couldn’t back down from that challenge. When the dish came out sizzling intensely, as promised, on a bed of grilled onions atop a cast iron plate, we took our first bite with more than a little trepidation. Thankfully, these beef meatballs were spicy enough to leave our tongues tingling but not so much that they set our mouths on fire. More importantly, they were \u003ci>delicious \u003c/i>— incredibly soft and flavorful. We smashed them onto pieces of sheermal, a slightly sweet, flaky flatbread that the restaurant suggests ordering to accompany its kebabs. It was a killer combo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What we loved best, though, was the whole atmosphere of the place, whether you’re eating outside on the patio or inside the small but cozy dining room, with its chalkboard art and hanging, mobile-style lending library providing a spark of warmth and color. The vibe is equal parts relaxed and lively, but also cosmopolitan in that uniquely Bay Area way — the crowd is a mix of families with kids, tech workers, older white couples and groups of mostly South Asian teens and college kids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On this particular night in Palo Alto, there wasn’t anywhere else we’d rather be.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The Palo Alto location of \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/zareensrestaurant/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Zareen’s\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (365 S. California Ave.) is open 11 a.m. to midnight daily (takeout only after 11 p.m.). The restaurant also has \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.zareensrestaurant.com/locations\">\u003ci>locations in Mountain View and Redwood City\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> that close earlier in the evening.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "Zareen’s Is a Late-Night Pakistani and Indian Food Gem in Palo Alto | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961617\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961617\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men sweating while they eat Indian/Pakistani food.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zareen’s has been a beloved Peninsula institution for the past 10 years, known for its homestyle Pakistani and Indian dishes. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For me, the most scenic vista in Palo Alto isn’t the view from the top of Hoover Tower, or within Gamble Garden’s immaculately manicured grounds, or deep inside a coastal redwood grove, lovely as all of those might be. As of last week, I’ve decided that the most beautiful sight in the entire city is the front patio at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/zareensrestaurant/?hl=en\">Zareen’s\u003c/a> at 10 o’clock on a gorgeous mid-summer night, when the umbrella-bedecked picnic tables are lit up with string lights and bustling with dozens of contented kebab and curry eaters. The vibe was so choice, I started to fall in love even before I took my first bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The beloved Pakistani and Indian restaurant, a staple on the Peninsula for the past 10 years, has two other locations, including the Mountain View original, which opened in 2014. But the Palo Alto Zareen’s is the only one that’s open late — until midnight every day — so that’s where we headed on a recent Friday night, joining the long queue of customers waiting to order at the front counter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>The menu covers a wide gamut of contemporary Pakistani and Indian food trends. There is, for instance, a whole section devoted to \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13952384/pakistani-desi-burger-fremont-late-night\">desi burgers\u003c/a>, naan wraps and other hybridized street foods that would fit in at any next-generation desi food truck — chapli burgers, fried chicken tikka sandwiches and so forth. Meanwhile, the traditional thali plates, which come with rice, pickles and lentil daal, are perfect for the solo diner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We decided to stick to the kind of cozy, homestyle Indo-Pak dishes upon which Zareen’s first built its reputation. In many ways, the restaurant embodies the apotheosis of fast-casual dining: Within five minutes flat, our order arrives at our patio table piping hot, everything fresh and vibrant as a home-cooked meal. The chicken biryani, a specialty of the restaurant only available on Fridays, is an excellent version of the dish. Each grain of rice is perfectly toothsome, without any clumping, and we couldn’t stop eating the moist, well-spiced chicken and red-tinged potatoes buried underneath. Even better is the lamb gosht, with its tender chunks of meat and rich, savory gravy — the ideal vehicle for Zareen’s outrageously fluffy naan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961619\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961619\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: A bustling front patio of a restaurant (the sign reads, "Zareen's") lit up at night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Zareens-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The front patio at Zareen’s. The restaurant’s Palo Alto location is open until midnight daily. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I have to admit that I may have been profiled just a bit: When I inquired about the gola kebab sizzler, the staff member at the front counter took a quick glance at me and suggested, not unkindly, that the dish might be too spicy for me. Of course — something something toxic masculinity — I couldn’t back down from that challenge. When the dish came out sizzling intensely, as promised, on a bed of grilled onions atop a cast iron plate, we took our first bite with more than a little trepidation. Thankfully, these beef meatballs were spicy enough to leave our tongues tingling but not so much that they set our mouths on fire. More importantly, they were \u003ci>delicious \u003c/i>— incredibly soft and flavorful. We smashed them onto pieces of sheermal, a slightly sweet, flaky flatbread that the restaurant suggests ordering to accompany its kebabs. It was a killer combo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What we loved best, though, was the whole atmosphere of the place, whether you’re eating outside on the patio or inside the small but cozy dining room, with its chalkboard art and hanging, mobile-style lending library providing a spark of warmth and color. The vibe is equal parts relaxed and lively, but also cosmopolitan in that uniquely Bay Area way — the crowd is a mix of families with kids, tech workers, older white couples and groups of mostly South Asian teens and college kids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On this particular night in Palo Alto, there wasn’t anywhere else we’d rather be.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The Palo Alto location of \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/zareensrestaurant/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Zareen’s\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (365 S. California Ave.) is open 11 a.m. to midnight daily (takeout only after 11 p.m.). The restaurant also has \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.zareensrestaurant.com/locations\">\u003ci>locations in Mountain View and Redwood City\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> that close earlier in the evening.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "San Jose’s Little Saigon Gets Its First Night Market",
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"content": "\u003cp>For many Bay Area food lovers, it has been \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13957666/best-boba-shops-bay-area-berkeley-cupertino-sf\">cold boba summer\u003c/a>, a hot-dog-at-the-\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13960687/oakland-ballers-baseball-summertime-fans\">Ballers’-game\u003c/a> summer and, perhaps more than anything, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/sf/article/night-markets-19497739.php\">summer of bustling outdoor night markets\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"https://oaklandside.org/2024/05/23/prescott-night-market-food-lineup-west-oakland/\">West Oakland\u003c/a> recently kicked off a food-centric, thrillingly multicultural monthly night market. San Francisco’s Sunset district will reprise a \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/sunset-night-market-vendors-19574731.php\">super-sized version\u003c/a> of its popular Irving Street night market in August and September, featuring as many as 150 vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And now, for the first time, Eastside San Jose is getting its own night market: the \u003ca href=\"https://www.mvbl.co/storyroad/\">Story Road Night Market\u003c/a>, a heavily Vietnamese-focused event located in the Grand Century Mall parking lot. There, right in the heart of Little Saigon, food vendors will grill meat skewers and ladle out cups of cold chè while retail pop-ups sell trading cards, scented candles and handmade plushies — all amid a full lineup of cultural performances.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Co-produced by San Jose street food event organizer \u003ca href=\"https://www.mvbl.co/\">Moveable Feast\u003c/a>, the new night market will debut this weekend, July 26–27, with later editions scheduled for September and October.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many of the other Bay Area night market events, Story Road Night Market draws its inspiration from the lively late-night street markets that are a staple in cities throughout Asia. Ryan Sebastian, Moveable Feast’s founder and CEO, says his company’s night markets differ from its more standard, Off the Grid–style food truck events in terms of their larger scale and later hours, and also their inclusion of non-food retail vendors, many of which are part of San Jose’s vibrant pop-up maker community. It might not be \u003ci>quite\u003c/i> as sprawling and idiosyncratic as your average Taipei night market, but, as Sebastian puts it, “It’s not just eight food trucks in a parking lot.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961555\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961555\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor.jpg\" alt=\"A market vendor sells plushies.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A vendor selling plushies at a past Moveable Feast night market event. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Moveable Feast)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not all of the food vendors will be Vietnamese, or even Asian American, necessarily. There will also be food trucks slinging birria tacos and Nashville hot chicken sandwiches. But one of the virtues of the night market’s tighter cultural focus is the sheer variety of Vietnamese foods that will be on offer — not just the most famous dishes like phở and bánh mì, says Moveable Feast events manager Yaneth Lopez, but also other street food dishes that “go great with beer.” (There will be a beer garden on the premises, after all.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='news_11963136,arts_13904913,arts_13954983']\u003c/span>Here’s where the location right outside \u003ca href=\"https://www.sanjose.org/attraction/grand-century-mall\">Grand Century\u003c/a> — a nearly all-Vietnamese shopping mall — really sets the night market apart. About a third of the food stalls will be occupied by traditional Vietnamese restaurants from the food court or the adjacent Vietnam Town shopping plaza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, on the one hand, Story Road Night Market visitors will be able to partake in the kind of trendy, hybridized food that you usually find at this kind of event: Portuguese egg tarts with Asian flavors like pandan and durian from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/a.m.patisserie/?hl=en\">A&M Patisserie\u003c/a>, Filipino-Mexican fusion tacos from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/loskuyas/?hl=en\">Los Kuyas\u003c/a> and, of course, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hotboichilioil/?hl=en\">artisanal chili crunch\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, Grand Century food court staple Cháo Vịt Thanh Đa will be grilling skewered meat, snails and squid, perfuming the air with their enticing, smoky aroma. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/anvatnhacam.sj/\">Ăn Vặt Nhà Cam\u003c/a>, a newcomer to Vietnam Town, will be on hand to sell, among other dishes, chicken feet in Thai sauce. Meanwhile, longtime farmers market pop-up darling \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11963136/flavor-profile-beyond-banh-mi-san-jose-pop-up-plays-with-classics-of-vietnamese-cuisine\">Hết Sẩy\u003c/a> straddles the old and new, serving hard-to-find regional specialties from the Mekong River Delta, often with a Bay Area twist. At the night market, they’ll be serving their signature bánh mì thịt kho tàu, a sandwich filled with braised pork belly, chopped egg, pickled mustard greens and bird’s eye chilies. They’ll also be one of a couple vendors selling \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904913/vietnamese-drinks-boba-che-guide-san-jose\">chè\u003c/a>, the dessert beverage made up of shaved ice and assorted fruits and jellies — the ideal summer refresher.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961557\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961557\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A pop-up restaurant worker ladles broth over a banh mi sandwich.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hết Sẩy’s signature pork belly banh mi. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“The cool thing about having the vendors outside is you can actually see them making these things instead of just reading them on a menu,” says Natalie Truong, Moveable Feast’s catering and operations specialist. In other words, for visitors who aren’t already intimately familiar with Vietnamese cuisine, it will be a relatively unintimidating chance to try something new.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sebastian says the Bay Area’s current night market renaissance can trace its roots back to the height of the pandemic, when all big community gatherings were shut down completely. As it turns out, night markets have been one of the best responses to the “need to establish community connection and combat loneliness,” he says. Meanwhile, as cities and neighborhoods launched successful night market events, everyone in the world of city economic development has been watching and learning. The upshot? Companies like Moveable Feast have been inundated with requests from cities that want to put money into launching a night market — more requests than they have the capacity to fulfill, Sebastian says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961543\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961543\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market.jpg\" alt=\"Visitors to a night market. lit up against the darkness, eating and mingling at picnic tables.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1081\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-1536x865.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bustling scene after dark at one of Moveable Feast’s previous night market events. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Moveable Feast)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In fact, the Story Road Night Market series came about because of one such request: San Jose District 7 Councilmember Bien Doan reached out to Moveable Feast after raising some money to help fund the night market, and the newly formed Story Road Business Association also chipped in — all with the goal of building community, drawing new visitors to the district and creating some buzz.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Little Saigon, it’s already known for its food,” Sebastian says. And if all goes according to plan, the night market should make a convincing case to newcomers for what most folks who live in San Jose already know — that this little half-mile stretch of Story Road has one of the greatest concentrations of delicious food in the entire Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.mvbl.co/storyroad/#event-info\">\u003ci>Story Road Night Market\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will take place on Friday, July 26, and Saturday, July 27, from 4–10 p.m., in the Grand Century Mall’s (1111 Story Rd., San Jose) western parking lot — the side adjacent to Vietnam Town. Both parking and admission are free. The market will take place again Sept. 6–7 and Oct. 11–12.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>For many Bay Area food lovers, it has been \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13957666/best-boba-shops-bay-area-berkeley-cupertino-sf\">cold boba summer\u003c/a>, a hot-dog-at-the-\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13960687/oakland-ballers-baseball-summertime-fans\">Ballers’-game\u003c/a> summer and, perhaps more than anything, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/sf/article/night-markets-19497739.php\">summer of bustling outdoor night markets\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"https://oaklandside.org/2024/05/23/prescott-night-market-food-lineup-west-oakland/\">West Oakland\u003c/a> recently kicked off a food-centric, thrillingly multicultural monthly night market. San Francisco’s Sunset district will reprise a \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/sunset-night-market-vendors-19574731.php\">super-sized version\u003c/a> of its popular Irving Street night market in August and September, featuring as many as 150 vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And now, for the first time, Eastside San Jose is getting its own night market: the \u003ca href=\"https://www.mvbl.co/storyroad/\">Story Road Night Market\u003c/a>, a heavily Vietnamese-focused event located in the Grand Century Mall parking lot. There, right in the heart of Little Saigon, food vendors will grill meat skewers and ladle out cups of cold chè while retail pop-ups sell trading cards, scented candles and handmade plushies — all amid a full lineup of cultural performances.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Co-produced by San Jose street food event organizer \u003ca href=\"https://www.mvbl.co/\">Moveable Feast\u003c/a>, the new night market will debut this weekend, July 26–27, with later editions scheduled for September and October.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many of the other Bay Area night market events, Story Road Night Market draws its inspiration from the lively late-night street markets that are a staple in cities throughout Asia. Ryan Sebastian, Moveable Feast’s founder and CEO, says his company’s night markets differ from its more standard, Off the Grid–style food truck events in terms of their larger scale and later hours, and also their inclusion of non-food retail vendors, many of which are part of San Jose’s vibrant pop-up maker community. It might not be \u003ci>quite\u003c/i> as sprawling and idiosyncratic as your average Taipei night market, but, as Sebastian puts it, “It’s not just eight food trucks in a parking lot.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961555\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961555\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor.jpg\" alt=\"A market vendor sells plushies.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/night-market-vendor-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A vendor selling plushies at a past Moveable Feast night market event. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Moveable Feast)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not all of the food vendors will be Vietnamese, or even Asian American, necessarily. There will also be food trucks slinging birria tacos and Nashville hot chicken sandwiches. But one of the virtues of the night market’s tighter cultural focus is the sheer variety of Vietnamese foods that will be on offer — not just the most famous dishes like phở and bánh mì, says Moveable Feast events manager Yaneth Lopez, but also other street food dishes that “go great with beer.” (There will be a beer garden on the premises, after all.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Here’s where the location right outside \u003ca href=\"https://www.sanjose.org/attraction/grand-century-mall\">Grand Century\u003c/a> — a nearly all-Vietnamese shopping mall — really sets the night market apart. About a third of the food stalls will be occupied by traditional Vietnamese restaurants from the food court or the adjacent Vietnam Town shopping plaza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, on the one hand, Story Road Night Market visitors will be able to partake in the kind of trendy, hybridized food that you usually find at this kind of event: Portuguese egg tarts with Asian flavors like pandan and durian from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/a.m.patisserie/?hl=en\">A&M Patisserie\u003c/a>, Filipino-Mexican fusion tacos from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/loskuyas/?hl=en\">Los Kuyas\u003c/a> and, of course, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hotboichilioil/?hl=en\">artisanal chili crunch\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, Grand Century food court staple Cháo Vịt Thanh Đa will be grilling skewered meat, snails and squid, perfuming the air with their enticing, smoky aroma. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/anvatnhacam.sj/\">Ăn Vặt Nhà Cam\u003c/a>, a newcomer to Vietnam Town, will be on hand to sell, among other dishes, chicken feet in Thai sauce. Meanwhile, longtime farmers market pop-up darling \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11963136/flavor-profile-beyond-banh-mi-san-jose-pop-up-plays-with-classics-of-vietnamese-cuisine\">Hết Sẩy\u003c/a> straddles the old and new, serving hard-to-find regional specialties from the Mekong River Delta, often with a Bay Area twist. At the night market, they’ll be serving their signature bánh mì thịt kho tàu, a sandwich filled with braised pork belly, chopped egg, pickled mustard greens and bird’s eye chilies. They’ll also be one of a couple vendors selling \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904913/vietnamese-drinks-boba-che-guide-san-jose\">chè\u003c/a>, the dessert beverage made up of shaved ice and assorted fruits and jellies — the ideal summer refresher.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961557\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961557\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A pop-up restaurant worker ladles broth over a banh mi sandwich.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/230818-HetSayRestaurant-05-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hết Sẩy’s signature pork belly banh mi. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“The cool thing about having the vendors outside is you can actually see them making these things instead of just reading them on a menu,” says Natalie Truong, Moveable Feast’s catering and operations specialist. In other words, for visitors who aren’t already intimately familiar with Vietnamese cuisine, it will be a relatively unintimidating chance to try something new.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sebastian says the Bay Area’s current night market renaissance can trace its roots back to the height of the pandemic, when all big community gatherings were shut down completely. As it turns out, night markets have been one of the best responses to the “need to establish community connection and combat loneliness,” he says. Meanwhile, as cities and neighborhoods launched successful night market events, everyone in the world of city economic development has been watching and learning. The upshot? Companies like Moveable Feast have been inundated with requests from cities that want to put money into launching a night market — more requests than they have the capacity to fulfill, Sebastian says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961543\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961543\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market.jpg\" alt=\"Visitors to a night market. lit up against the darkness, eating and mingling at picnic tables.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1081\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/moveable-night-market-1536x865.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bustling scene after dark at one of Moveable Feast’s previous night market events. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Moveable Feast)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In fact, the Story Road Night Market series came about because of one such request: San Jose District 7 Councilmember Bien Doan reached out to Moveable Feast after raising some money to help fund the night market, and the newly formed Story Road Business Association also chipped in — all with the goal of building community, drawing new visitors to the district and creating some buzz.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Little Saigon, it’s already known for its food,” Sebastian says. And if all goes according to plan, the night market should make a convincing case to newcomers for what most folks who live in San Jose already know — that this little half-mile stretch of Story Road has one of the greatest concentrations of delicious food in the entire Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.mvbl.co/storyroad/#event-info\">\u003ci>Story Road Night Market\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will take place on Friday, July 26, and Saturday, July 27, from 4–10 p.m., in the Grand Century Mall’s (1111 Story Rd., San Jose) western parking lot — the side adjacent to Vietnam Town. Both parking and admission are free. The market will take place again Sept. 6–7 and Oct. 11–12.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "brazilian-food-boom-sf-bay-area-cafe-de-casa-brazilian-bbq",
"title": "The Golden Age of Brazilian Food in the Bay Area Is Here",
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"headTitle": "The Golden Age of Brazilian Food in the Bay Area Is Here | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>[dropcap]A[/dropcap]cross the street from the Buena Vista Cafe’s white-coated bartenders pouring San Francisco’s most famous Irish coffee and the gobs of tourists stepping off the Powell/Hyde Cable Car turnaround, there’s an unexpected new addition to the neighborhood: a Brazilian restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this isn’t just \u003ci>any\u003c/i> Brazilian restaurant. It’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/She-was-an-underground-food-legend-in-S-F-Now-16206269.php\">Cafe De Casa’s\u003c/a> third location in the Bay Area, an unprecedented milestone for Brazilian food around these parts. The stylishly-designed, 5,000-square-foot former Starbucks on Fisherman’s Wharf represents a massive expansion from the cozy grab-and-go shop that Cafe de Casa had around the corner for eight years. This is now a full-blown Brazilian food emporium, offering a bevy of savory pastries like pão de queijo (aka “PDQ,” or cheese bread) and creamy, chicken-filled coxinhas, chewy-crispy stuffed tapioca crepes, lunch plates, açai bowls, fresh juices and coffee drinks galore. Now there are even packages of Cafe de Casa frozen PDQs to bake at home, along with branded malagueta pepper hot sauce and artisan ceramics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a stark contrast from when I moved to San Francisco 15 years ago and my quests to find the hearty homestyle Brazilian lunch plates that I ate every day growing up were largely fruitless. If I wanted Brazilian food, the options were limited to steakhouses (usually a big meal for special occasions) or açai bowls (a snack) from a cafe on Valencia Street that promised for years to start a lunch service but never did. Where was the everyday food and staple rice and beans?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when I stumbled upon Cafe de Casa’s original tiny yellow house in South San Francisco in the 2010s serving legit home cooked classics, it was the only place that would effectively quell my “saudades” (deep longing) for flavors from back home in Brazil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961263\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961263\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A woman and young boy peruse the pastry case at Cafe de Casa.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A family looks at the pastry display case at Cafe de Casa on July 11, 2024. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, more than a decade later, that dearth of Brazilian food options in the Bay is a thing of the past. From my home on the edge of Noe Valley and Bernal Heights, for example, there are no less than a half dozen places within ten minutes of my doorstep. I make an easy pit stop when I bike by \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/brazilian-spot-sf-buffet-18175531.php\">The Brazilian Spot\u003c/a> on Valencia near 24th Street to grab a quick PDQ or a buffet lunch on Fridays. I can walk to \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/At-S-F-s-Noeteca-Italian-wine-goes-hand-in-hand-16409455.php\">Noeteca\u003c/a> on Dolores Street for hearty lunch plates during the week, and I know I can get coxinhas in a pinch at Brazilian-owned Bernal Heights Pizza down the street. There’s another sleek Cafe De Casa in the Castro, Pebbles in Glen Park has sneaky-good PDQ and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13935344/brazuca-brazilian-burger-acai-food-truck-richmond\">Brazuca’s\u003c/a> Brazi-Mex fusion food truck is a short jaunt away in the Dogpatch. And just last month, I discovered Vaulin’s Taproom on Bryant and 9th for a lunch plate with authentic Brazilian rice and beans, sauteed beef with caramelized onions, a fried egg and farofa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It feels like nothing short of a golden age to be (and eat) Brazilian in San Francisco — and I’m not even counting the number of other options in Daly City or the East Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if Cafe de Casa’s expansion among this growing trend of Brazilian food businesses in a multitude of neighborhoods tells us anything, it’s that they’re very much not just feeding Brazilians. Through the years, the clientele at Cafe de Casa has become increasingly non-Brazilian, making it an important entry point to the cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We wanted to make for Americans what Brazilians love,” says Amanda Moreira, who co-owns Cafe de Casa with her mother and sister. “Brazilian food is very agreeable to the palette. It’s flavorful, and not overly spicy.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while I typically introduce folks to Brazilian food via the crispy, gooey, cheesy PDQ, Moreira says the coxinha — a fried dough ball shaped like a chicken leg, filled with velvety seasoned chicken — is the perfect gateway. “I’ve never seen anyone not like a coxinha,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961258\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961258\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Three triangular fried pastries on a plate.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cafe de Casa’s version of coxinha, a traditional Brazilian pastry. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961356\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1999px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961356\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A Brazilian chicken pastry cut open to reveal its creamy filling.\" width=\"1999\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed.jpg 1999w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1999px) 100vw, 1999px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pastry’s velvety chicken-and-cream-cheese filling. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cafe De Casa even sells its coxinhas and other savory pastries to smaller Brazilian cafes around the Bay, most of which tend to cater to the growing number of expats in the region, who number somewhere between 15,000 and 40,000. But non-Brazilian clientele really started to take notice of Cafe de Casa’s offerings, Moreira explains, during the surging health food movement in the mid-to-late 2010s. Words like “gluten-free” and “antioxidant” were definitely en vogue in the Bay Area, and Cafe de Casa — with its gluten-free PDQs, tapioca crepes and proprietary açai blend — was well-positioned to be discovered by new customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Açai was already having its moment in the health craze, but we were the first ones doing tapioca crepes in the area,” Moreria says. “Like the pão de queijo and tapioca crepes that are naturally gluten-free — it wasn’t \u003ci>engineered\u003c/i> to be that way. And there’s no sugar or milk in the tapiocas either, and people are after that, especially in these parts of California. When people with food allergies come searching for gluten-free and dairy-free, we show them an entire page of options and they’re blown away.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>A Growing Community and Culture\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Moreira moved to San Francisco in 2009 from the state of Goias, where a great majority of Brazilians in the Bay Area are from. Back then, most Brazilians out here were working blue-collared jobs like delivering pizzas or cleaning houses. These days, pizza delivery has been replaced by driving for Uber or DoorDash as a predominant job for Brazilians just arriving. Brazilians come to the Bay to stay as long as possible and make as much money to either take back home or, in cases like Moreira’s, to build a life here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moreira’s mother, Lucimar Canedo, was an early innovator when it came to Brazilian food in the Bay. After arriving in 2004, she’d sell her savory pastries out of a pizzeria she worked at and eventually settled into building the Cafe de Casa business in earnest with her daughters in 2011. But while Canedo and Moreira’s paths have led to the growth of their own business, the culture and communities that have grown around them along the way comprise an even bigger shift in the overall Brazilian food scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961259\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961259\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A spread of pastries inside a display case.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The impressive spread of pastries available at Cafe de Casa’s Fisherman’s Wharf location. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961358\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961358\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed.jpg\" alt=\"Portrait of a woman (center) and her two adult daughters, all posing in jeans and blazers.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lucimar Canedo (center) and her daughters Amanda Moreira (left) and Thais Moreira pose for a portrait. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cafe de Casa)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“The population is getting bigger out here for sure,” says Vaulin Silva of \u003ca href=\"https://sanfranciscobrazilianrestaurant.com/\">Vaulin’s Taproom\u003c/a> in SoMa. Silva owned the Inner Richmond’s Brazil-centric Sunstream Cafe for 15 years before selling it in 2020, so he knows a thing or two about Brazilians walking through his door. It’s one of the reasons he leveled up to a full-service food and beer operation in Vaulin’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vaulin’s offers an extensive menu of Brazilian classics — including discounted lunch plates for ride-share and delivery drivers — as well as shareable bar food typical of Brazil’s gastropub culture to go along with a slew of beers on tap. Fostering community is on his mind, and now on weekends, Vaulin’s has live Brazilian music on the restaurant’s modest stage. “Brazilians kept coming [to the Bay], and they asked for more offerings like we have in Brazil,” he sums up, adding that his goal is to eventually attract more non-Brazilians too.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Red Light/Green Light\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Before places like Cafe de Casa, El Cerrito’s Brazil Bistro and Oakland’s Paulista Kitchen & Taproom came along serving everyday Brazilian staples, Brazilian barbecue (churrasco) was the first thing that came to mind when non-Brazilians in the Bay Area thought about Brazilian food. Espetus has been slicing meats off of large skewers tableside on Market Street since 2003 and opened an even more popular San Mateo location in 2008. International chain Fogo de Chão came to SOMA in 2016.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Celso Mattos is a veteran of churrascarias. He moved from Brazil’s barbecue mecca in Southern Brazil to Texas, where he started working at Fogo de Chão. When he came to the Bay Area, he served as the manager of Napa’s Galpão Gaucho, one of the barbecue chain’s seven restaurants across the country, mainly in California. He set out on his own in 2022 to open the modest Show de Carnes Express in Vacaville, before opening up a full-blown 200-seat \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/showdecarnesusa/?hl=en\">Show de Carnes\u003c/a> steakhouse in Sausalito in early 2023. He hasn’t looked back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961373\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961373\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef.jpg\" alt=\"Steak ready to be cut off the spit, at a Brazilian barbecue restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1958\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-800x783.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-1020x999.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-160x157.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-768x752.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-1536x1504.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-1920x1880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ribeye steak ready to be sliced off the skewer at Show de Carnes, a Brazilian barbecue restaurant in Sausalito. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Show de Carnes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On a recent Tuesday night, Show de Carnes is humming. The smells of traditional Southern Brazilian–style grilled meats greet you as soon as you walk into the elegant dining room. Families, corporate dinners and birthday parties are filling the long group-friendly tables along one half of the room while two- and four-tops sip caipirinhas and take trips to the loaded salad bar on the other. Meat carvers make their hypnotic shuffle from table to table looking for the green-colored side of an indicator that you’re ready to be served, and slice meats like picanha, pork ribs and chicken hearts right onto your plate (the red side tells them you’re full or need a break.) And while this is an authentically Brazilian experience, most of the clientele is not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13935344,arts_13960360,arts_13930138']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>“90% of our clientele is American,” Mattos says. “Business has been very good right off the bat, truly beyond our expectations. But I really didn’t expect things to go this well in our first year, mainly because it didn’t happen that way in any of the other locations I opened with other companies I’ve worked with.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mattos says the Sausalito location made sense because there wasn’t a Brazilian steakhouse between Napa and San Francisco. Marin County, with its nearly 300,000 people who skew high-income, was attractive. “Generally speaking, there aren’t really that many churrascarias in the Bay for the number of people here,” Mattos explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Brazilians in the Bay are usually looking for more everyday food than churrascarias, the strength of the concept forged on Brazilian hospitality is palpable among the masses. In fact, Show de Carnes is set to open \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/showdecarnesusa/p/C4rps1MsJez/\">another location in Palo Alto later this summer\u003c/a>, because whether they’re Brazilian or not, people in the Bay Area can’t seem to get enough Brazilian food right now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961260\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961260\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Customers eating lunch inside a busy Brazilian cafe.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The lunch crowd at Cafe de Casa. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Indeed, Brazilian steakhouses have historically been the entry points to Brazilian food in America. Miguel Do Rego was a manager at Espetus for six years before opening The Brazilian Spot, the Mission District cafe and Brazilian food market,in 2022. He says the increasing popularity of establishments like his is a direct result of the longtime presence of Brazilian steakhouses in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When I was at Espetus, we were easily serving over 1,000 people a day on busy weekends between lunch and dinner at both locations,” Do Rego says. “Think about that. Every single weekend 3,000+ mostly non-Brazilian people were getting exposed to Brazilian food in this area. And more importantly, we served the PDQ as appetizers. So everyone knows about the ‘Brazilian cheese bread’ because of the steakhouses.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even Trader Joe’s now sells their own version of par-baked PDQs (spoiler alert: they’re just OK), and one company went on \u003ci>Shark Tank\u003c/i> a decade ago \u003ca href=\"https://www.foodrepublic.com/1424764/brazi-bites-shark-tank-now/\">effectively exploding the frozen PDQ market\u003c/a> everywhere from Whole Foods to Costco nationwide. The increased availability of this decidedly Brazilian product has led to a much more friendly environment for Brazilian cafes in places like the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961264\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961264\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A woman smiles behind the counter while working at a cafe.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">“We wanted to make for Americans what Brazilians love,” says Amanda Moreira, who runs Cafe de Casa along with with her sister and mother. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And as the Bay Area’s history with Brazilian food now reaches back over 20 years since the first steakhouse opened and Cafe de Casa’s matriarch moved to the Bay, we’re seeing the results of these portals into Brazilian food laying lasting roots. With these hubs of culinary culture continuing to sprout and flourish, everyone in the Bay — no matter where they’re from — is seeing how Brazilian food is as vibrant as the country’s people. There’s a whole other world out there beyond just the barbecue that’s now easier to find than ever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My mom always said that all I need is for someone to walk through my door,” Moreira says back at Cafe de Casa. “Once they’re in, I’ll get to work, and once they’re done eating, I know they’re going to come back.”\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "The Golden Age of Brazilian Food in the SF Bay Area | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">A\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>cross the street from the Buena Vista Cafe’s white-coated bartenders pouring San Francisco’s most famous Irish coffee and the gobs of tourists stepping off the Powell/Hyde Cable Car turnaround, there’s an unexpected new addition to the neighborhood: a Brazilian restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this isn’t just \u003ci>any\u003c/i> Brazilian restaurant. It’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/She-was-an-underground-food-legend-in-S-F-Now-16206269.php\">Cafe De Casa’s\u003c/a> third location in the Bay Area, an unprecedented milestone for Brazilian food around these parts. The stylishly-designed, 5,000-square-foot former Starbucks on Fisherman’s Wharf represents a massive expansion from the cozy grab-and-go shop that Cafe de Casa had around the corner for eight years. This is now a full-blown Brazilian food emporium, offering a bevy of savory pastries like pão de queijo (aka “PDQ,” or cheese bread) and creamy, chicken-filled coxinhas, chewy-crispy stuffed tapioca crepes, lunch plates, açai bowls, fresh juices and coffee drinks galore. Now there are even packages of Cafe de Casa frozen PDQs to bake at home, along with branded malagueta pepper hot sauce and artisan ceramics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a stark contrast from when I moved to San Francisco 15 years ago and my quests to find the hearty homestyle Brazilian lunch plates that I ate every day growing up were largely fruitless. If I wanted Brazilian food, the options were limited to steakhouses (usually a big meal for special occasions) or açai bowls (a snack) from a cafe on Valencia Street that promised for years to start a lunch service but never did. Where was the everyday food and staple rice and beans?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when I stumbled upon Cafe de Casa’s original tiny yellow house in South San Francisco in the 2010s serving legit home cooked classics, it was the only place that would effectively quell my “saudades” (deep longing) for flavors from back home in Brazil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961263\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961263\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A woman and young boy peruse the pastry case at Cafe de Casa.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-42-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A family looks at the pastry display case at Cafe de Casa on July 11, 2024. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, more than a decade later, that dearth of Brazilian food options in the Bay is a thing of the past. From my home on the edge of Noe Valley and Bernal Heights, for example, there are no less than a half dozen places within ten minutes of my doorstep. I make an easy pit stop when I bike by \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/brazilian-spot-sf-buffet-18175531.php\">The Brazilian Spot\u003c/a> on Valencia near 24th Street to grab a quick PDQ or a buffet lunch on Fridays. I can walk to \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/At-S-F-s-Noeteca-Italian-wine-goes-hand-in-hand-16409455.php\">Noeteca\u003c/a> on Dolores Street for hearty lunch plates during the week, and I know I can get coxinhas in a pinch at Brazilian-owned Bernal Heights Pizza down the street. There’s another sleek Cafe De Casa in the Castro, Pebbles in Glen Park has sneaky-good PDQ and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13935344/brazuca-brazilian-burger-acai-food-truck-richmond\">Brazuca’s\u003c/a> Brazi-Mex fusion food truck is a short jaunt away in the Dogpatch. And just last month, I discovered Vaulin’s Taproom on Bryant and 9th for a lunch plate with authentic Brazilian rice and beans, sauteed beef with caramelized onions, a fried egg and farofa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It feels like nothing short of a golden age to be (and eat) Brazilian in San Francisco — and I’m not even counting the number of other options in Daly City or the East Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if Cafe de Casa’s expansion among this growing trend of Brazilian food businesses in a multitude of neighborhoods tells us anything, it’s that they’re very much not just feeding Brazilians. Through the years, the clientele at Cafe de Casa has become increasingly non-Brazilian, making it an important entry point to the cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We wanted to make for Americans what Brazilians love,” says Amanda Moreira, who co-owns Cafe de Casa with her mother and sister. “Brazilian food is very agreeable to the palette. It’s flavorful, and not overly spicy.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while I typically introduce folks to Brazilian food via the crispy, gooey, cheesy PDQ, Moreira says the coxinha — a fried dough ball shaped like a chicken leg, filled with velvety seasoned chicken — is the perfect gateway. “I’ve never seen anyone not like a coxinha,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961258\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961258\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Three triangular fried pastries on a plate.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-11-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cafe de Casa’s version of coxinha, a traditional Brazilian pastry. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961356\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1999px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961356\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A Brazilian chicken pastry cut open to reveal its creamy filling.\" width=\"1999\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed.jpg 1999w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BrazilianFoodBoom-19-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1999px) 100vw, 1999px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pastry’s velvety chicken-and-cream-cheese filling. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cafe De Casa even sells its coxinhas and other savory pastries to smaller Brazilian cafes around the Bay, most of which tend to cater to the growing number of expats in the region, who number somewhere between 15,000 and 40,000. But non-Brazilian clientele really started to take notice of Cafe de Casa’s offerings, Moreira explains, during the surging health food movement in the mid-to-late 2010s. Words like “gluten-free” and “antioxidant” were definitely en vogue in the Bay Area, and Cafe de Casa — with its gluten-free PDQs, tapioca crepes and proprietary açai blend — was well-positioned to be discovered by new customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Açai was already having its moment in the health craze, but we were the first ones doing tapioca crepes in the area,” Moreria says. “Like the pão de queijo and tapioca crepes that are naturally gluten-free — it wasn’t \u003ci>engineered\u003c/i> to be that way. And there’s no sugar or milk in the tapiocas either, and people are after that, especially in these parts of California. When people with food allergies come searching for gluten-free and dairy-free, we show them an entire page of options and they’re blown away.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>A Growing Community and Culture\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Moreira moved to San Francisco in 2009 from the state of Goias, where a great majority of Brazilians in the Bay Area are from. Back then, most Brazilians out here were working blue-collared jobs like delivering pizzas or cleaning houses. These days, pizza delivery has been replaced by driving for Uber or DoorDash as a predominant job for Brazilians just arriving. Brazilians come to the Bay to stay as long as possible and make as much money to either take back home or, in cases like Moreira’s, to build a life here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moreira’s mother, Lucimar Canedo, was an early innovator when it came to Brazilian food in the Bay. After arriving in 2004, she’d sell her savory pastries out of a pizzeria she worked at and eventually settled into building the Cafe de Casa business in earnest with her daughters in 2011. But while Canedo and Moreira’s paths have led to the growth of their own business, the culture and communities that have grown around them along the way comprise an even bigger shift in the overall Brazilian food scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961259\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961259\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A spread of pastries inside a display case.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-26-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The impressive spread of pastries available at Cafe de Casa’s Fisherman’s Wharf location. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961358\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961358\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed.jpg\" alt=\"Portrait of a woman (center) and her two adult daughters, all posing in jeans and blazers.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/CafedeCasa_WEB-11_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lucimar Canedo (center) and her daughters Amanda Moreira (left) and Thais Moreira pose for a portrait. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cafe de Casa)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“The population is getting bigger out here for sure,” says Vaulin Silva of \u003ca href=\"https://sanfranciscobrazilianrestaurant.com/\">Vaulin’s Taproom\u003c/a> in SoMa. Silva owned the Inner Richmond’s Brazil-centric Sunstream Cafe for 15 years before selling it in 2020, so he knows a thing or two about Brazilians walking through his door. It’s one of the reasons he leveled up to a full-service food and beer operation in Vaulin’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vaulin’s offers an extensive menu of Brazilian classics — including discounted lunch plates for ride-share and delivery drivers — as well as shareable bar food typical of Brazil’s gastropub culture to go along with a slew of beers on tap. Fostering community is on his mind, and now on weekends, Vaulin’s has live Brazilian music on the restaurant’s modest stage. “Brazilians kept coming [to the Bay], and they asked for more offerings like we have in Brazil,” he sums up, adding that his goal is to eventually attract more non-Brazilians too.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Red Light/Green Light\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Before places like Cafe de Casa, El Cerrito’s Brazil Bistro and Oakland’s Paulista Kitchen & Taproom came along serving everyday Brazilian staples, Brazilian barbecue (churrasco) was the first thing that came to mind when non-Brazilians in the Bay Area thought about Brazilian food. Espetus has been slicing meats off of large skewers tableside on Market Street since 2003 and opened an even more popular San Mateo location in 2008. International chain Fogo de Chão came to SOMA in 2016.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Celso Mattos is a veteran of churrascarias. He moved from Brazil’s barbecue mecca in Southern Brazil to Texas, where he started working at Fogo de Chão. When he came to the Bay Area, he served as the manager of Napa’s Galpão Gaucho, one of the barbecue chain’s seven restaurants across the country, mainly in California. He set out on his own in 2022 to open the modest Show de Carnes Express in Vacaville, before opening up a full-blown 200-seat \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/showdecarnesusa/?hl=en\">Show de Carnes\u003c/a> steakhouse in Sausalito in early 2023. He hasn’t looked back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961373\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961373\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef.jpg\" alt=\"Steak ready to be cut off the spit, at a Brazilian barbecue restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1958\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-800x783.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-1020x999.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-160x157.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-768x752.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-1536x1504.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/sdc-beef-1920x1880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ribeye steak ready to be sliced off the skewer at Show de Carnes, a Brazilian barbecue restaurant in Sausalito. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Show de Carnes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On a recent Tuesday night, Show de Carnes is humming. The smells of traditional Southern Brazilian–style grilled meats greet you as soon as you walk into the elegant dining room. Families, corporate dinners and birthday parties are filling the long group-friendly tables along one half of the room while two- and four-tops sip caipirinhas and take trips to the loaded salad bar on the other. Meat carvers make their hypnotic shuffle from table to table looking for the green-colored side of an indicator that you’re ready to be served, and slice meats like picanha, pork ribs and chicken hearts right onto your plate (the red side tells them you’re full or need a break.) And while this is an authentically Brazilian experience, most of the clientele is not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>“90% of our clientele is American,” Mattos says. “Business has been very good right off the bat, truly beyond our expectations. But I really didn’t expect things to go this well in our first year, mainly because it didn’t happen that way in any of the other locations I opened with other companies I’ve worked with.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mattos says the Sausalito location made sense because there wasn’t a Brazilian steakhouse between Napa and San Francisco. Marin County, with its nearly 300,000 people who skew high-income, was attractive. “Generally speaking, there aren’t really that many churrascarias in the Bay for the number of people here,” Mattos explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Brazilians in the Bay are usually looking for more everyday food than churrascarias, the strength of the concept forged on Brazilian hospitality is palpable among the masses. In fact, Show de Carnes is set to open \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/showdecarnesusa/p/C4rps1MsJez/\">another location in Palo Alto later this summer\u003c/a>, because whether they’re Brazilian or not, people in the Bay Area can’t seem to get enough Brazilian food right now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961260\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961260\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Customers eating lunch inside a busy Brazilian cafe.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-30-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The lunch crowd at Cafe de Casa. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Indeed, Brazilian steakhouses have historically been the entry points to Brazilian food in America. Miguel Do Rego was a manager at Espetus for six years before opening The Brazilian Spot, the Mission District cafe and Brazilian food market,in 2022. He says the increasing popularity of establishments like his is a direct result of the longtime presence of Brazilian steakhouses in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When I was at Espetus, we were easily serving over 1,000 people a day on busy weekends between lunch and dinner at both locations,” Do Rego says. “Think about that. Every single weekend 3,000+ mostly non-Brazilian people were getting exposed to Brazilian food in this area. And more importantly, we served the PDQ as appetizers. So everyone knows about the ‘Brazilian cheese bread’ because of the steakhouses.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even Trader Joe’s now sells their own version of par-baked PDQs (spoiler alert: they’re just OK), and one company went on \u003ci>Shark Tank\u003c/i> a decade ago \u003ca href=\"https://www.foodrepublic.com/1424764/brazi-bites-shark-tank-now/\">effectively exploding the frozen PDQ market\u003c/a> everywhere from Whole Foods to Costco nationwide. The increased availability of this decidedly Brazilian product has led to a much more friendly environment for Brazilian cafes in places like the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961264\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961264\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A woman smiles behind the counter while working at a cafe.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240711-BRAZILIANFOODBOOM-49-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">“We wanted to make for Americans what Brazilians love,” says Amanda Moreira, who runs Cafe de Casa along with with her sister and mother. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And as the Bay Area’s history with Brazilian food now reaches back over 20 years since the first steakhouse opened and Cafe de Casa’s matriarch moved to the Bay, we’re seeing the results of these portals into Brazilian food laying lasting roots. With these hubs of culinary culture continuing to sprout and flourish, everyone in the Bay — no matter where they’re from — is seeing how Brazilian food is as vibrant as the country’s people. There’s a whole other world out there beyond just the barbecue that’s now easier to find than ever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My mom always said that all I need is for someone to walk through my door,” Moreira says back at Cafe de Casa. “Once they’re in, I’ll get to work, and once they’re done eating, I know they’re going to come back.”\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "bay-pocha-late-night-korean-pub-bossam-army-stew-sf",
"title": "Bay Pocha Was Made for a Late-Night Feast With Friends",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961332\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961332\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: One diner at a Korean restaurant shoves a lettuce wrap into his mouth while another eats noodles from a pot of stew.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bay Pocha sets itself apart from the crowd of Korean pubs by serving big, shareable, celebratory dishes like its bossam (pork belly wraps). The San Francisco restaurant is open until 1 a.m. on weekends. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in college, my friends and I would eat at the Fontainbleau Diner in Piscataway, New Jersey, every Thursday night after our weekly club meeting. This meant 10 or 20 of us, mostly Asian American, rolling in at 10 p.m. to commandeer a row of pushed-together two-tops. We were loud and giddy, reveling in our Monte Cristos, chicken fingers and root beer floats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, here in the Bay Area, a lot of the late-night restaurants aren’t built for that kind of large-group merrymaking — not when you’re squished up at a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13957143/late-night-japanese-whisky-highball-karaage-sunnyvale-nokori\">tiny bar counter\u003c/a> or, in some cases, there \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13959808/golden-boy-pizza-north-beach-sf-late-night\">isn’t any seating at all\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://baypocha.menu11.com/\">Bay Pocha\u003c/a>, a Korean pub on Ocean Avenue near Stonestown, is the exception that proves the rule. Even though it isn’t a particularly big restaurant, a long communal table, spacious enough to fit 20 people, runs down the center of the dining room, and the menu skews toward hearty, shareable dishes: bubbling stews and hot pots, and big platters piled high with braised and stir-fried meats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Named after Korea’s famed “pocha” (or \u003ca href=\"https://la.eater.com/2020/8/13/21366722/koreatown-pojangmacha-street-food-parking-look-outdoor-dining-los-angeles\">pojangmacha\u003c/a>) street carts and semi-outdoor food stalls, Bay Pocha has a similar aesthetic to \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13952823/zzan-korean-fried-chicken-late-night-san-francisco\">other Korean pubs in the Bay Area\u003c/a> with its cheery K-pop soundtrack and neon-lit signs advertising soju and Korean beer brands. On weekends, it’s open until 1 a.m. and, on a recent Friday night, it only seemed to get busier and more rambunctious as the night got later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The broad menu runs through the greatest hits of the kind of booze-friendly food you would find at your standard Bay Area soju bang: Korean fried chicken, cheese corn, tteokbokki. But where Bay Pocha sets itself apart is in its selection of big, celebratory dishes — the kind you’re surprised and delighted to be able to share with a group of friends at 11 o’clock at night. That includes harder-to-find dishes like spicy stir-fried chicken feet and jokbal, a.k.a. braised pig trotters, which Bay Pocha offers in both spicy and non-spicy versions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961334\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961334\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2.jpg\" alt='Illustration: Facade of a Korean restaurant; the sign reads, \"Bay Pocha.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant is perfect for a late meal with a big group of friends. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But we had mainly come for the hidden star of the menu, the bossam, or braised pork belly wraps, which is probably the dish Bay Pocha is best known for, even though it isn’t listed on the menu — you have to know to ask for it. It’s a huge platter of tender, fatty meat, cut into thick slices and fanned out like a beautiful flower, with a salad of thinly slivered scallions piled in the center. Make sure you also order the ssam set — a plate of lettuce, raw and pickled jalapeños, raw garlic and spicy ssamjang sauce — so that you can eat the pork belly Korean-style, as lettuce wraps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13961051,arts_13959808,arts_13956218']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>For each ssam, you’ll want a couple of slices of pork, a tangle of scallion salad, a smear of ssamjang, maybe some kimchi and, if you’re like me, an unconscionable amount of garlic. Build each wrap on your plate or do it “freestyle,” the way I learned from watching too many Korean dramas, holding the lettuce leaf in front of your mouth like you’re setting a trap, then \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@plumsoju/video/6799690626007977221?lang=en\">chopsticking all of the other ingredients into the leaf in one smooth motion\u003c/a>. Take it down in one bite if you can. Either way, the result is delicious — unctuous and meaty, spicy and sharp, with enough freshness from the lettuce that you don’t feel weighed down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other thing the restaurant does well is its ample selection of shareable stews and hot pots, the most striking of which is the army stew, or budae jjigae, a Korean pub staple whose use of American processed foods has its \u003ca href=\"https://www.atlasobscura.com/foods/budae-jjigae-army-stew-spam\">roots in the U.S. post-war military occupation of South Korea\u003c/a>. At Bay Pocha, they light up a portable gas burner, then bring the big pot of bubbling red broth to your table to finish cooking. The soup comes loaded with spicy pork, Spam, sliced up hot dogs, onions, kimchi, tofu, two different kinds of rice cakes, and a big block of instant ramen topped with two slices of American cheese. It is \u003ci>a lot\u003c/i>. But for us, it was pure comfort food. The salty, spicy broth got more and more flavorful as the night went on, and with some white rice on the side to soak up the soup, we stretched the leftovers into two more meals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As if on cue, toward the end of the night, a boisterous, Cantonese-speaking adult volleyball or baseball team in matching red jackets came in and spread themselves out at the long communal table — the same kind of squad I’d go on those late-night diner runs with in college. They were celebrating, or consoling themselves, with a bubbling pot of galbijjim (short rib stew) that the server ceremoniously scorched with a blow torch until the cheese on top was brown-speckled and melty. I wasn’t sure how their night had gone up until then, but it seemed clear that they were ending it in the best possible way.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/baypocha/\">\u003ci>Bay Pocha\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is located at 2642 Ocean Ave. in San Francisco. The restaurant is open Monday through Thursday from 5 p.m.–midnight, Friday and Saturday 5 p.m.–1 a.m. and Sunday 5–11:30 p.m.; it’s also open for lunch 11 a.m.–2 p.m. daily.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "Bay Pocha in SF Is a Korean Pub Made for Late-Night Feasts | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961332\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961332\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: One diner at a Korean restaurant shoves a lettuce wrap into his mouth while another eats noodles from a pot of stew.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bay Pocha sets itself apart from the crowd of Korean pubs by serving big, shareable, celebratory dishes like its bossam (pork belly wraps). The San Francisco restaurant is open until 1 a.m. on weekends. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in college, my friends and I would eat at the Fontainbleau Diner in Piscataway, New Jersey, every Thursday night after our weekly club meeting. This meant 10 or 20 of us, mostly Asian American, rolling in at 10 p.m. to commandeer a row of pushed-together two-tops. We were loud and giddy, reveling in our Monte Cristos, chicken fingers and root beer floats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, here in the Bay Area, a lot of the late-night restaurants aren’t built for that kind of large-group merrymaking — not when you’re squished up at a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13957143/late-night-japanese-whisky-highball-karaage-sunnyvale-nokori\">tiny bar counter\u003c/a> or, in some cases, there \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13959808/golden-boy-pizza-north-beach-sf-late-night\">isn’t any seating at all\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://baypocha.menu11.com/\">Bay Pocha\u003c/a>, a Korean pub on Ocean Avenue near Stonestown, is the exception that proves the rule. Even though it isn’t a particularly big restaurant, a long communal table, spacious enough to fit 20 people, runs down the center of the dining room, and the menu skews toward hearty, shareable dishes: bubbling stews and hot pots, and big platters piled high with braised and stir-fried meats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Named after Korea’s famed “pocha” (or \u003ca href=\"https://la.eater.com/2020/8/13/21366722/koreatown-pojangmacha-street-food-parking-look-outdoor-dining-los-angeles\">pojangmacha\u003c/a>) street carts and semi-outdoor food stalls, Bay Pocha has a similar aesthetic to \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13952823/zzan-korean-fried-chicken-late-night-san-francisco\">other Korean pubs in the Bay Area\u003c/a> with its cheery K-pop soundtrack and neon-lit signs advertising soju and Korean beer brands. On weekends, it’s open until 1 a.m. and, on a recent Friday night, it only seemed to get busier and more rambunctious as the night got later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The broad menu runs through the greatest hits of the kind of booze-friendly food you would find at your standard Bay Area soju bang: Korean fried chicken, cheese corn, tteokbokki. But where Bay Pocha sets itself apart is in its selection of big, celebratory dishes — the kind you’re surprised and delighted to be able to share with a group of friends at 11 o’clock at night. That includes harder-to-find dishes like spicy stir-fried chicken feet and jokbal, a.k.a. braised pig trotters, which Bay Pocha offers in both spicy and non-spicy versions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961334\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961334\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2.jpg\" alt='Illustration: Facade of a Korean restaurant; the sign reads, \"Bay Pocha.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Untitled_Artwork-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant is perfect for a late meal with a big group of friends. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But we had mainly come for the hidden star of the menu, the bossam, or braised pork belly wraps, which is probably the dish Bay Pocha is best known for, even though it isn’t listed on the menu — you have to know to ask for it. It’s a huge platter of tender, fatty meat, cut into thick slices and fanned out like a beautiful flower, with a salad of thinly slivered scallions piled in the center. Make sure you also order the ssam set — a plate of lettuce, raw and pickled jalapeños, raw garlic and spicy ssamjang sauce — so that you can eat the pork belly Korean-style, as lettuce wraps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>For each ssam, you’ll want a couple of slices of pork, a tangle of scallion salad, a smear of ssamjang, maybe some kimchi and, if you’re like me, an unconscionable amount of garlic. Build each wrap on your plate or do it “freestyle,” the way I learned from watching too many Korean dramas, holding the lettuce leaf in front of your mouth like you’re setting a trap, then \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@plumsoju/video/6799690626007977221?lang=en\">chopsticking all of the other ingredients into the leaf in one smooth motion\u003c/a>. Take it down in one bite if you can. Either way, the result is delicious — unctuous and meaty, spicy and sharp, with enough freshness from the lettuce that you don’t feel weighed down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other thing the restaurant does well is its ample selection of shareable stews and hot pots, the most striking of which is the army stew, or budae jjigae, a Korean pub staple whose use of American processed foods has its \u003ca href=\"https://www.atlasobscura.com/foods/budae-jjigae-army-stew-spam\">roots in the U.S. post-war military occupation of South Korea\u003c/a>. At Bay Pocha, they light up a portable gas burner, then bring the big pot of bubbling red broth to your table to finish cooking. The soup comes loaded with spicy pork, Spam, sliced up hot dogs, onions, kimchi, tofu, two different kinds of rice cakes, and a big block of instant ramen topped with two slices of American cheese. It is \u003ci>a lot\u003c/i>. But for us, it was pure comfort food. The salty, spicy broth got more and more flavorful as the night went on, and with some white rice on the side to soak up the soup, we stretched the leftovers into two more meals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As if on cue, toward the end of the night, a boisterous, Cantonese-speaking adult volleyball or baseball team in matching red jackets came in and spread themselves out at the long communal table — the same kind of squad I’d go on those late-night diner runs with in college. They were celebrating, or consoling themselves, with a bubbling pot of galbijjim (short rib stew) that the server ceremoniously scorched with a blow torch until the cheese on top was brown-speckled and melty. I wasn’t sure how their night had gone up until then, but it seemed clear that they were ending it in the best possible way.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/baypocha/\">\u003ci>Bay Pocha\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is located at 2642 Ocean Ave. in San Francisco. The restaurant is open Monday through Thursday from 5 p.m.–midnight, Friday and Saturday 5 p.m.–1 a.m. and Sunday 5–11:30 p.m.; it’s also open for lunch 11 a.m.–2 p.m. daily.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "sonoran-flour-tortillas-san-jose-mirandas",
"title": "This San Jose Tortilleria Makes the Best Sonoran Flour Tortillas in the South Bay",
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"headTitle": "This San Jose Tortilleria Makes the Best Sonoran Flour Tortillas in the South Bay | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>In the United States, many Mexican food enthusiasts don’t consider flour tortillas to be as “authentic” as corn tortillas, \u003ca href=\"https://www.splendidtable.org/story/2018/04/19/in-defense-of-flour-tortillas-an-origin-story-with-gustavo-arellano\">arguing that they’re not a real part of the cuisine\u003c/a>. And it’s true that the mass-produced flour tortillas you find in a Crunchwrap Supreme or packaged at the grocery store tend to compromise everything in favor of shelf stability. They have the same texture and flavor profile as a sheet of paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in the state of Sonora, in northern Mexico, flour tortillas are a centuries-long tradition. These handmade tortillas are both chewy and delicate, and they take on the subtle flavor of the fat used to make them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Diana Miranda Benitez moved from Ciudad Obregón, Sonora, to San Jose, she grew frustrated with the poor imitations sold at the local markets. “I couldn’t find a quality flour tortilla in the U.S.,” she says, “and I always had this idea of starting a tortilleria.” At the time, Benitez worked at a Jack in the Box while doing housekeeping gigs on the side. She learned how to make tortillas from her sister-in-law, who also introduced her to a man in the mechanical tortilla press industry. After some hesitation, she purchased an industrial-grade tortilla press from Sonora and started her business — \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mirandas_tortillas_/\">Miranda’s Tortillas\u003c/a> — in 2022.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, Benitez and her team produce roughly 200 eight-inch tortillas per hour in assembly-line fashion. Benitez dances along to the rhythm of the machine, quickly swapping each newly flattened tortilla with a pre-portioned ball of dough. The raw tortilla is transferred to a hot comal and cooked on both sides until it’s covered in brown spots. Once it puffs up, it’s placed on a wire rack to cool. Miranda’s sells tortillas by the dozen, producing a minimum of 35 packs a day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961225\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961225\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas.jpg\" alt=\"A stack of flour tortillas, blistered in spots.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A stack of Miranda’s fresh flour tortillas, which are chewy and delicate, with a rich flavor from the addition of butter and shortening. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Every week, new customers find Benitez through Instagram and word of mouth. Her reputation? That she makes the best flour tortillas in the San Jose area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Benitez is proud of her tortillas’ texture and their ability to maintain their quality over time. “Flour tortillas don’t get hard, and when you warm them up, it’s as if they’re freshly cooked,” she says. The tortillas are rich from the inclusion of both vegetable shortening and butter. They’re also pliable, so you can use them to make a burrito with a double scoop of rice and beans without worrying about tearing. To truly savor the tortillas’ flavor, gently reheat one on a comal — or in a nonstick pan — and enjoy it with some melted butter and a pinch of salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13960139,arts_13958466,arts_13958172']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>For now, Benitez only sells the one size and style of flour tortilla. But she also provides a direct link to the flavors of Sonora in other ways. She sells ingredients imported from the region like machaca, a dehydrated shredded meat popular in the region. And she keeps a stock of what is considered to be the mother of all chiles — \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/what-are-chiltepin-chiles\">chiltepín\u003c/a>. The chiles are worth picking up because they’re rare in California, and they’re great for making a salsa to pair with those flour tortillas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Mexican food lovers accustomed to only eating corn tortillas, these homemade flour tortillas offer an entirely different taste experience: They’re larger and chewier, and have an extra richness thanks to the addition of fat. In many ways, flour tortillas in the Bay Area are now following a similar path that corn tortillas did during their renaissance, in the 2010s, when the improving quality of the masa available here made the way for tortillas that taste closer to the ones you find in Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961226\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961226\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press.jpg\" alt=\"Flattened tortilla dough on an industrial tortilla press.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Diana Miranda Benitez and her team can make about 200 tortillas in an hour, assembly line–style. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the same way, the Bay Area’s emerging \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/flour-tortillas-bay-area-xulo-semilla-mamacuca-17001425.php\">artisanal flour tortilla\u003c/a> scene is also driven by experimentation and the desire to recreate a taste of home. \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/12/16/22177318/xulo-flour-tortillas-berkeley-pop-up-michael-de-la-torre\">Xulo\u003c/a> — a Berkeley-born pop-up whose flour tortillas are now sold at mainstream grocery stores like Berkeley Bowl— offers tortillas made with traditional manteca (pork fat), but also versions that swap it out for olive oil, duck fat and grass-fed butter. At East Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/tacos-mama-cuca-oakland-19379525.php\">Tacos Mama Cuca\u003c/a>, the flour tortillas the chef uses to make her Sonoran-style tacos are a tether to her home and family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Miranda’s Tortillas appears to be the first business to bring these high-quality Sonoran flour tortillas to San Jose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of Benitez’s customers are Sonoran immigrants who couldn’t find the tortillas they were used to back home. But the buzz around Miranda’s isn’t limited to people looking for a taste of nostalgia. “A lot of people who buy my tortillas are from Sonora,” says Benitez, “but I also get customers who are from other parts of Mexico and even other countries.” Local taquerias have also started buying her tortillas to use in their burritos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eventually, Benitez hopes to put a flour tortilla on everyone’s table. “I’m working on getting a trailer,” Benitez says. “In the future, I’d like for my tortillas to be sold in grocery stores.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Miranda’s Tortillas is open Tuesday–Saturday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Text 408-690-6565 or send a message on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mirandas_tortillas_/\">\u003ci>Instagram\u003c/i>\u003c/a> t\u003ci>o place an order (and for the exact pickup location in San Jose)\u003c/i>\u003ci>. Tortillas are $8 per dozen.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In the United States, many Mexican food enthusiasts don’t consider flour tortillas to be as “authentic” as corn tortillas, \u003ca href=\"https://www.splendidtable.org/story/2018/04/19/in-defense-of-flour-tortillas-an-origin-story-with-gustavo-arellano\">arguing that they’re not a real part of the cuisine\u003c/a>. And it’s true that the mass-produced flour tortillas you find in a Crunchwrap Supreme or packaged at the grocery store tend to compromise everything in favor of shelf stability. They have the same texture and flavor profile as a sheet of paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in the state of Sonora, in northern Mexico, flour tortillas are a centuries-long tradition. These handmade tortillas are both chewy and delicate, and they take on the subtle flavor of the fat used to make them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Diana Miranda Benitez moved from Ciudad Obregón, Sonora, to San Jose, she grew frustrated with the poor imitations sold at the local markets. “I couldn’t find a quality flour tortilla in the U.S.,” she says, “and I always had this idea of starting a tortilleria.” At the time, Benitez worked at a Jack in the Box while doing housekeeping gigs on the side. She learned how to make tortillas from her sister-in-law, who also introduced her to a man in the mechanical tortilla press industry. After some hesitation, she purchased an industrial-grade tortilla press from Sonora and started her business — \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mirandas_tortillas_/\">Miranda’s Tortillas\u003c/a> — in 2022.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, Benitez and her team produce roughly 200 eight-inch tortillas per hour in assembly-line fashion. Benitez dances along to the rhythm of the machine, quickly swapping each newly flattened tortilla with a pre-portioned ball of dough. The raw tortilla is transferred to a hot comal and cooked on both sides until it’s covered in brown spots. Once it puffs up, it’s placed on a wire rack to cool. Miranda’s sells tortillas by the dozen, producing a minimum of 35 packs a day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961225\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961225\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas.jpg\" alt=\"A stack of flour tortillas, blistered in spots.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Flour-Tortillas-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A stack of Miranda’s fresh flour tortillas, which are chewy and delicate, with a rich flavor from the addition of butter and shortening. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Every week, new customers find Benitez through Instagram and word of mouth. Her reputation? That she makes the best flour tortillas in the San Jose area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Benitez is proud of her tortillas’ texture and their ability to maintain their quality over time. “Flour tortillas don’t get hard, and when you warm them up, it’s as if they’re freshly cooked,” she says. The tortillas are rich from the inclusion of both vegetable shortening and butter. They’re also pliable, so you can use them to make a burrito with a double scoop of rice and beans without worrying about tearing. To truly savor the tortillas’ flavor, gently reheat one on a comal — or in a nonstick pan — and enjoy it with some melted butter and a pinch of salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>For now, Benitez only sells the one size and style of flour tortilla. But she also provides a direct link to the flavors of Sonora in other ways. She sells ingredients imported from the region like machaca, a dehydrated shredded meat popular in the region. And she keeps a stock of what is considered to be the mother of all chiles — \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/what-are-chiltepin-chiles\">chiltepín\u003c/a>. The chiles are worth picking up because they’re rare in California, and they’re great for making a salsa to pair with those flour tortillas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Mexican food lovers accustomed to only eating corn tortillas, these homemade flour tortillas offer an entirely different taste experience: They’re larger and chewier, and have an extra richness thanks to the addition of fat. In many ways, flour tortillas in the Bay Area are now following a similar path that corn tortillas did during their renaissance, in the 2010s, when the improving quality of the masa available here made the way for tortillas that taste closer to the ones you find in Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13961226\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13961226\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press.jpg\" alt=\"Flattened tortilla dough on an industrial tortilla press.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/Tortilla-Press-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Diana Miranda Benitez and her team can make about 200 tortillas in an hour, assembly line–style. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the same way, the Bay Area’s emerging \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/flour-tortillas-bay-area-xulo-semilla-mamacuca-17001425.php\">artisanal flour tortilla\u003c/a> scene is also driven by experimentation and the desire to recreate a taste of home. \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/12/16/22177318/xulo-flour-tortillas-berkeley-pop-up-michael-de-la-torre\">Xulo\u003c/a> — a Berkeley-born pop-up whose flour tortillas are now sold at mainstream grocery stores like Berkeley Bowl— offers tortillas made with traditional manteca (pork fat), but also versions that swap it out for olive oil, duck fat and grass-fed butter. At East Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/tacos-mama-cuca-oakland-19379525.php\">Tacos Mama Cuca\u003c/a>, the flour tortillas the chef uses to make her Sonoran-style tacos are a tether to her home and family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Miranda’s Tortillas appears to be the first business to bring these high-quality Sonoran flour tortillas to San Jose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of Benitez’s customers are Sonoran immigrants who couldn’t find the tortillas they were used to back home. But the buzz around Miranda’s isn’t limited to people looking for a taste of nostalgia. “A lot of people who buy my tortillas are from Sonora,” says Benitez, “but I also get customers who are from other parts of Mexico and even other countries.” Local taquerias have also started buying her tortillas to use in their burritos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eventually, Benitez hopes to put a flour tortilla on everyone’s table. “I’m working on getting a trailer,” Benitez says. “In the future, I’d like for my tortillas to be sold in grocery stores.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Miranda’s Tortillas is open Tuesday–Saturday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Text 408-690-6565 or send a message on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mirandas_tortillas_/\">\u003ci>Instagram\u003c/i>\u003c/a> t\u003ci>o place an order (and for the exact pickup location in San Jose)\u003c/i>\u003ci>. Tortillas are $8 per dozen.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Tunnel Tops Park Will Have a New Food Hall in 2025",
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"content": "\u003cp>The Presidio’s popular Tunnel Tops Park will be home to a new food hall in 2025, park operators announced Tuesday. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.messhallpresidio.com\">The Mess Hall\u003c/a>, in a building adjacent to the park, will house a food hall, bar, cafe and retail market, scheduled to be open each day from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. It will be located at 201 Halleck St., with the park’s signature views of the Golden Gate Bridge, the Marin Headlands and Alcatraz. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While no specific tenants for The Mess Hall have been announced, the Presidio Trust, which operates the park, expects the hall to sell “fast-casual made-to-order meals, grab-and-go prepared options, and a provisions market featuring local specialties, imported favorites, and picnic essentials.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='news_11988111']Two out-of-towners have been brought on in key positions. Heading the Mess Hall’s food side is the James Beard Award–winning, Korean American chef \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/serpicopter/?hl=en\">Peter Serpico\u003c/a>, formerly of Momofuko, as well as his own restaurant, Serpico, in Philadelphia. In charge of the bar is Zach Negin, an owner of the Los Angeles bar Tabula Rasa and the Silverlake Lounge, a live music venue. (Negin is also a partner in San Francisco’s Dolores Deluxe, a corner store in the Mission.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Mess Hall also operates \u003ca href=\"https://www.messhallmarketoc.com/\">another location\u003c/a> in Orange County. Other current food options adjacent to Tunnel Tops Park include Il Parco, the Italian cafe that specializes in foccacia sourdough pizza, and the Presidio Pop-Up, a regular rotation of food trucks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The Presidio’s popular Tunnel Tops Park will be home to a new food hall in 2025, park operators announced Tuesday. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.messhallpresidio.com\">The Mess Hall\u003c/a>, in a building adjacent to the park, will house a food hall, bar, cafe and retail market, scheduled to be open each day from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. It will be located at 201 Halleck St., with the park’s signature views of the Golden Gate Bridge, the Marin Headlands and Alcatraz. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While no specific tenants for The Mess Hall have been announced, the Presidio Trust, which operates the park, expects the hall to sell “fast-casual made-to-order meals, grab-and-go prepared options, and a provisions market featuring local specialties, imported favorites, and picnic essentials.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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