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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As we sit down on Samin Nosrat’s cozy sofa to talk about her new Netflix series \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat, \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the former Chez Panisse chef not only compliments my hands but reaches out to touch them. Like the person you see on screen, she’s a tactile, disarming presence. She’s also fearless when tasting food she’s unfamiliar with. In each episode, Nosrat travels somewhere abroad in order to enrich her understanding of a people and their approach to cooking. Whether she’s gathering olives with Italian farmers or wandering through a fish market in Japan, the people she encounters are invariably charmed by her curiosity and genuine sense of adventure. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The television series is based on her bestselling book of the same name. When \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat: Mastering the Elements of Good Cooking \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">was published in 2017, I heard Evan Kleiman, the host of KCRW’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kcrw.com/news-culture/shows/good-food/appropriation-in-food-dulce-de-leche-mastering-culinary-technique\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Good Food\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">give Nosrat her stamp of approval (always a good sign). And I suddenly saw it everywhere around the Bay Area, in bookstores and sitting open on kitchen countertops. \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">does contain recipes but they’re meant to supplement the 17 years of research and experience that Nosrat put into crafting a book about \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">how \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">to cook rather than simply offering a variation on spaghetti bolognese or lemon bars. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130843\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-130843 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Samin Nosrat in Mexico for 'Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat' (Courtesy Netflix)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">She came up with her magical formula — repeat “salt, fat, acid, heat” often enough and it sounds like an incantation — by observing the way the chefs ran the Chez Panisse kitchen. As she was learning her trade as an apprentice there, she described the daily routine, “\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Every day we'd sit down and have a menu meeting. In the café upstairs the chef would print out a blank form every day that had a spot for what the daily pizza was going to be for lunch and dinner, what the soup was going to be, the entrée from the grille, the braise. Some days it was beef bourguignon. Other days we were making something Indian inspired, or Italian or Spanish.” \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At first, Nosrat wondered how everyone could remember so many recipes. She admits that “i\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">t took an embarrassingly long time for me to realize, oh, braising is a formula.” All they were doing, depending on the day and the chef’s whim at the time was, “changing the wine or changing the acid. We're changing the bed of herbs and the aromatics at the bottom — but it doesn't matter if you're Indian or you're Greek, Spanish or French.” From this \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">aha\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> moment, she understood something universal about the culinary arts, regardless of what country’s spices you use. As she writes in the book’s opening sentence, “Anyone can cook anything and make it delicious.” That is, if you apply Nosrat’s four essential cooking principles.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130844\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-130844 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Samin Nosrat tasting Italian cheese in her Netflix series 'Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat' (Courtesy Netflix)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Each episode of the TV adaptation devotes an hour to each principle. Nosrat travels to Japan in “Salt,” Italy in “Fat,” Mexico for “Acid” and back to Berkeley for “Heat.” She’s as interested in the cuisine — tasting seaweed, pasta or tacos — as she is in the behind-the-scenes process of how the dishes are made. We hear her laughter echo across an Italian valley as she delights in gathering olives. She discovers a store that carries so many varieties of salt it actually demonstrates the idea of infinity. And we get a vicarious thrill from her as she tastes a spicy hot salsa and cools her palate down with a beer.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But throughout the series, Nosrat’s journeys are never solitary. You’re likely to become a better home cook after reading \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">but, for her, that’s only the part of the story. Building a community is the actual reward. Her friend Yuri accompanies her to the fish market in Japan. She makes pasta from scratch and a ragu with Benedetta, a chef she’d previously studied with in Italy. Once she returns home, Nosrat makes tahdig (crispy Persian rice) with her mother. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130845\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-130845 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/SFAH_Unit_02005-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/SFAH_Unit_02005-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/SFAH_Unit_02005-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/SFAH_Unit_02005-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/SFAH_Unit_02005.jpg 864w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/SFAH_Unit_02005-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/SFAH_Unit_02005-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/SFAH_Unit_02005-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Samin Nosrat invites her friends to dinner in the Netflix series 'Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat' (Courtesy Adam Rose / Netflix)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Her family moved from Iran to San Diego at the height of the Iranian Revolution. She explained that when they arrived in California her mom made it clear that when they were in the house, they were in Iran. And when they went outside, that was America. Nosrat says, \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“That feeling of never quite belonging, which I still have and I probably will have till I die, is where my superpowers originate. Feeling like an outsider is not a good feeling, you know?” Instead of succumbing to those feelings, she made a conscious decision to create an inclusive message, “so that it doesn't cause anyone to feel that way.” What better way to establish a sense of belonging than by inviting people over for a home-cooked meal.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.netflix.com/title/80198288\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is now streaming on Netflix.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As we sit down on Samin Nosrat’s cozy sofa to talk about her new Netflix series \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat, \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the former Chez Panisse chef not only compliments my hands but reaches out to touch them. Like the person you see on screen, she’s a tactile, disarming presence. She’s also fearless when tasting food she’s unfamiliar with. In each episode, Nosrat travels somewhere abroad in order to enrich her understanding of a people and their approach to cooking. Whether she’s gathering olives with Italian farmers or wandering through a fish market in Japan, the people she encounters are invariably charmed by her curiosity and genuine sense of adventure. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The television series is based on her bestselling book of the same name. When \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat: Mastering the Elements of Good Cooking \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">was published in 2017, I heard Evan Kleiman, the host of KCRW’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kcrw.com/news-culture/shows/good-food/appropriation-in-food-dulce-de-leche-mastering-culinary-technique\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Good Food\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">give Nosrat her stamp of approval (always a good sign). And I suddenly saw it everywhere around the Bay Area, in bookstores and sitting open on kitchen countertops. \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">does contain recipes but they’re meant to supplement the 17 years of research and experience that Nosrat put into crafting a book about \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">how \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">to cook rather than simply offering a variation on spaghetti bolognese or lemon bars. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130843\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-130843 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E03_29m12s42029f-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Samin Nosrat in Mexico for 'Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat' (Courtesy Netflix)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">She came up with her magical formula — repeat “salt, fat, acid, heat” often enough and it sounds like an incantation — by observing the way the chefs ran the Chez Panisse kitchen. As she was learning her trade as an apprentice there, she described the daily routine, “\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Every day we'd sit down and have a menu meeting. In the café upstairs the chef would print out a blank form every day that had a spot for what the daily pizza was going to be for lunch and dinner, what the soup was going to be, the entrée from the grille, the braise. Some days it was beef bourguignon. Other days we were making something Indian inspired, or Italian or Spanish.” \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At first, Nosrat wondered how everyone could remember so many recipes. She admits that “i\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">t took an embarrassingly long time for me to realize, oh, braising is a formula.” All they were doing, depending on the day and the chef’s whim at the time was, “changing the wine or changing the acid. We're changing the bed of herbs and the aromatics at the bottom — but it doesn't matter if you're Indian or you're Greek, Spanish or French.” From this \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">aha\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> moment, she understood something universal about the culinary arts, regardless of what country’s spices you use. As she writes in the book’s opening sentence, “Anyone can cook anything and make it delicious.” That is, if you apply Nosrat’s four essential cooking principles.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130844\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-130844 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/Salt_Fat_Acid_Heat_S01E01_32m12s46341f-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Samin Nosrat tasting Italian cheese in her Netflix series 'Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat' (Courtesy Netflix)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Each episode of the TV adaptation devotes an hour to each principle. Nosrat travels to Japan in “Salt,” Italy in “Fat,” Mexico for “Acid” and back to Berkeley for “Heat.” She’s as interested in the cuisine — tasting seaweed, pasta or tacos — as she is in the behind-the-scenes process of how the dishes are made. We hear her laughter echo across an Italian valley as she delights in gathering olives. She discovers a store that carries so many varieties of salt it actually demonstrates the idea of infinity. And we get a vicarious thrill from her as she tastes a spicy hot salsa and cools her palate down with a beer.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But throughout the series, Nosrat’s journeys are never solitary. You’re likely to become a better home cook after reading \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">but, for her, that’s only the part of the story. Building a community is the actual reward. Her friend Yuri accompanies her to the fish market in Japan. She makes pasta from scratch and a ragu with Benedetta, a chef she’d previously studied with in Italy. Once she returns home, Nosrat makes tahdig (crispy Persian rice) with her mother. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130845\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-130845 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/SFAH_Unit_02005-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/SFAH_Unit_02005-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/SFAH_Unit_02005-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/SFAH_Unit_02005-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/SFAH_Unit_02005.jpg 864w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/SFAH_Unit_02005-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/SFAH_Unit_02005-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/SFAH_Unit_02005-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Samin Nosrat invites her friends to dinner in the Netflix series 'Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat' (Courtesy Adam Rose / Netflix)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Her family moved from Iran to San Diego at the height of the Iranian Revolution. She explained that when they arrived in California her mom made it clear that when they were in the house, they were in Iran. And when they went outside, that was America. Nosrat says, \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“That feeling of never quite belonging, which I still have and I probably will have till I die, is where my superpowers originate. Feeling like an outsider is not a good feeling, you know?” Instead of succumbing to those feelings, she made a conscious decision to create an inclusive message, “so that it doesn't cause anyone to feel that way.” What better way to establish a sense of belonging than by inviting people over for a home-cooked meal.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.netflix.com/title/80198288\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is now streaming on Netflix.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Women Chefs Still Walk 'A Fine Line' In The Kitchen",
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"content": "\u003cp>Less than 7 percent of restaurants in the United States are led by female chefs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This statistic from a \u003ca href=\"http://www.telegram.com/article/20140306/news/303069801\">2014 Bloomberg study\u003c/a> came as a huge surprise to Joanna James, a journalist-turned-filmmaker who is also the daughter of a female restaurateur. When she decided to make her first documentary feature film about her mother's journey as a chef, restaurant owner and single mother, she had no idea that her mother's struggles to establish herself in the restaurant industry were commonplace among women.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That film, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://afinelinemovie.com\">A Fine Line\u003c/a>,\u003c/em> began as a love letter to her mom, chronicling the difficulties Val James overcame — from finding bank loans to babysitters — as she established her own restaurant in the early 1990s in central Massachusetts. Eventually the documentary grew into a much bigger story filled with dozens of additional voices from across the industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I suddenly realized that what my mother had faced was part of a larger discussion,\" says James. \"I wanted my mom's story to be the compelling factor that moved everything forward, but to also weave in the stories of other female chefs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the scope of the film grew, Joanna James went to \u003ca href=\"https://womenchefs.org\">Women Chefs & Restaurateurs\u003c/a>, a networking association for women in the culinary industry, for financial help in 2016. Chef \u003ca href=\"https://www.eatyourpizza.com/our-story/\">Ruth Gresser\u003c/a>, who owns four restaurants in the Washington, D.C. area and was serving as president of WCR's board of directors at the time, felt it was a project worth supporting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One of the things that I'm very aware of,\" says Gresser, \"is how immensely the food and restaurant business has changed during the 40 years that I've been involved in the industry — yet how little has changed for women during the same time. We need to expand the conversation about supporting women into leadership.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant industry is generally regarded as unfriendly to women, whether it's frequent \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/12/14/570863486/allegations-against-celebrity-chefs-reveal-abuse-in-the-restaurant-industry\">sexual harassment in the workplace\u003c/a> or nonexistent family leave policies. In the 21st century, women still struggle to advance within restaurant kitchens and can find it next to impossible to find funding to open their own restaurants. This is despite the fact that more than \u003ca href=\"http://www.slate.com/blogs/xx_factor/2017/03/14/female_students_outnumber_males_at_the_culinary_institute_of_america_for.html\">half the students\u003c/a> at the Culinary Institute of America are now women.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>James and her co-producer, Katy Jordan, are both first-time moms. Now traveling the country sharing the documentary at film festivals and seeking distribution for theatrical release, they have become keenly aware of the struggle to balance work and family. In particular, Jordan was struck by an interview in the film with Michelin-starred chef \u003ca href=\"https://www.barbaralynch.com/about-barbara/\">Barbara Lynch\u003c/a> in which Lynch describes coming back to her restaurant just two weeks postpartum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Barbara talks about breastfeeding and butchering at the same time, and it always gets a laugh from the audience,\" says Jordan. \"But at the same time, there's something vulgar about that. You get a sense from the women in the audience, no matter what industry they work in, that yes, that's the way it is. That's how you keep your job.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, restaurants are typically known for long work days, often 12 or 14 hours. But the female restaurateurs profiled in the film see no reason why restaurants can't be structured to allow for work-life balance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"First of all,\" says Lynch, \"wherever you choose to work, you need to be treated with dignity.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Lynch, that might mean helping some of her 400 employees — male and female — with paying off student loans, or providing boxes of groceries for new moms on her staff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Val's Restaurant, Val James has an open door policy at her office, where many of her employees refer to her as a second mom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everybody has their worries,\" she says. \"It's always nice to find that person who will sit down with you and say, 'It's going to be OK. Let's figure something out.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, as Iron Chef \u003ca href=\"http://catcora.com/about-cat/\">Cat Cora\u003c/a> points out, sometimes, it's all about getting the job in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just 20 years ago, Cora, fresh out of culinary school, wanted to work in a kitchen in France so that she could continue to hone her skills. Instead, she received eight rejection letters, which all stated in no uncertain terms that women simply were not hired to work in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now the owner of several restaurants, she says, \"They said that to the wrong girl. It just made me more determined to show that I could get into a French kitchen and kill it. It was a turning point for me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For women of color looking for advancement in the food industry, it can be even more difficult to find opportunities. In the film, African-American chef \u003ca href=\"https://mic.com/articles/189207/mashama-bailey-is-the-first-african-american-woman-nominated-for-best-chef-at-the-james-beard-awards#.MaQNonuo5\">Mashama Bailey\u003c/a> points out that the building that houses her restaurant was once a segregated bus station: \"When I came into the building, it was really humbling. I know the people who were in this space — going to ride the bus, sitting in that little tiny back waiting room — did not think that someone like me would be a co-owner or be in this space at all running it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's one of many moments in \u003cem>A Fine Line\u003c/em> that resonated with chef \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/articles/429-elle-simone-discusses-her-unexpected-transition-from-food-stylist-to-tv-personality\">Elle Simone\u003c/a>, a food stylist who is also the first African-American cast member on the PBS series \u003cem>America's Test Kitchen\u003c/em> and founder of SheChef, a networking group for women of color in the food industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's a lack of representation in the top spots,\" says Simone, \"of women in general and women of color in particular. I saw that early on when I was an intern at the Food Network, especially as someone who wasn't coming from one of the big culinary schools, but from a school where all my classmates were black and brown people. I was lucky, but most people at the smaller schools don't even have the opportunity to get those internships, and even when you do, you don't usually see someone in charge who looks like you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many female chefs believe that offering mentorships and apprenticeships, as well as having women and women of color in leadership positions, is critical to establishing equal opportunities within the workplace and policies that provide more work-life balance. And organizations like the James Beard Foundation and Les Dames d'Escoffier have established programs aimed specifically at helping women advance within the culinary industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>James and Jordan have also begun connecting with local women legislators and entrepreneurs in the cities where the film has been showing to push for paid maternal leave, early childhood education programs, and equal pay for equal work — issues that they see as critical to helping female chefs gain traction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think what we need to create,\" says James, \"is an 'old girls' club,' with female accountants, tax attorneys, and so forth, who can help women in the culinary field achieve their goals. Good food is important, but it's about so much more than food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>A Fine Line\u003c/em> will be screened in a number of film festivals around the country this fall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2018 NPR. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Women+Chefs+Still+Walk+%27A+Fine+Line%27+In+The+Kitchen&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Less than 7 percent of restaurants in the United States are led by female chefs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This statistic from a \u003ca href=\"http://www.telegram.com/article/20140306/news/303069801\">2014 Bloomberg study\u003c/a> came as a huge surprise to Joanna James, a journalist-turned-filmmaker who is also the daughter of a female restaurateur. When she decided to make her first documentary feature film about her mother's journey as a chef, restaurant owner and single mother, she had no idea that her mother's struggles to establish herself in the restaurant industry were commonplace among women.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That film, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://afinelinemovie.com\">A Fine Line\u003c/a>,\u003c/em> began as a love letter to her mom, chronicling the difficulties Val James overcame — from finding bank loans to babysitters — as she established her own restaurant in the early 1990s in central Massachusetts. Eventually the documentary grew into a much bigger story filled with dozens of additional voices from across the industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I suddenly realized that what my mother had faced was part of a larger discussion,\" says James. \"I wanted my mom's story to be the compelling factor that moved everything forward, but to also weave in the stories of other female chefs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the scope of the film grew, Joanna James went to \u003ca href=\"https://womenchefs.org\">Women Chefs & Restaurateurs\u003c/a>, a networking association for women in the culinary industry, for financial help in 2016. Chef \u003ca href=\"https://www.eatyourpizza.com/our-story/\">Ruth Gresser\u003c/a>, who owns four restaurants in the Washington, D.C. area and was serving as president of WCR's board of directors at the time, felt it was a project worth supporting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One of the things that I'm very aware of,\" says Gresser, \"is how immensely the food and restaurant business has changed during the 40 years that I've been involved in the industry — yet how little has changed for women during the same time. We need to expand the conversation about supporting women into leadership.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant industry is generally regarded as unfriendly to women, whether it's frequent \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/12/14/570863486/allegations-against-celebrity-chefs-reveal-abuse-in-the-restaurant-industry\">sexual harassment in the workplace\u003c/a> or nonexistent family leave policies. In the 21st century, women still struggle to advance within restaurant kitchens and can find it next to impossible to find funding to open their own restaurants. This is despite the fact that more than \u003ca href=\"http://www.slate.com/blogs/xx_factor/2017/03/14/female_students_outnumber_males_at_the_culinary_institute_of_america_for.html\">half the students\u003c/a> at the Culinary Institute of America are now women.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>James and her co-producer, Katy Jordan, are both first-time moms. Now traveling the country sharing the documentary at film festivals and seeking distribution for theatrical release, they have become keenly aware of the struggle to balance work and family. In particular, Jordan was struck by an interview in the film with Michelin-starred chef \u003ca href=\"https://www.barbaralynch.com/about-barbara/\">Barbara Lynch\u003c/a> in which Lynch describes coming back to her restaurant just two weeks postpartum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Barbara talks about breastfeeding and butchering at the same time, and it always gets a laugh from the audience,\" says Jordan. \"But at the same time, there's something vulgar about that. You get a sense from the women in the audience, no matter what industry they work in, that yes, that's the way it is. That's how you keep your job.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, restaurants are typically known for long work days, often 12 or 14 hours. But the female restaurateurs profiled in the film see no reason why restaurants can't be structured to allow for work-life balance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"First of all,\" says Lynch, \"wherever you choose to work, you need to be treated with dignity.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Lynch, that might mean helping some of her 400 employees — male and female — with paying off student loans, or providing boxes of groceries for new moms on her staff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Val's Restaurant, Val James has an open door policy at her office, where many of her employees refer to her as a second mom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everybody has their worries,\" she says. \"It's always nice to find that person who will sit down with you and say, 'It's going to be OK. Let's figure something out.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, as Iron Chef \u003ca href=\"http://catcora.com/about-cat/\">Cat Cora\u003c/a> points out, sometimes, it's all about getting the job in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just 20 years ago, Cora, fresh out of culinary school, wanted to work in a kitchen in France so that she could continue to hone her skills. Instead, she received eight rejection letters, which all stated in no uncertain terms that women simply were not hired to work in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now the owner of several restaurants, she says, \"They said that to the wrong girl. It just made me more determined to show that I could get into a French kitchen and kill it. It was a turning point for me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For women of color looking for advancement in the food industry, it can be even more difficult to find opportunities. In the film, African-American chef \u003ca href=\"https://mic.com/articles/189207/mashama-bailey-is-the-first-african-american-woman-nominated-for-best-chef-at-the-james-beard-awards#.MaQNonuo5\">Mashama Bailey\u003c/a> points out that the building that houses her restaurant was once a segregated bus station: \"When I came into the building, it was really humbling. I know the people who were in this space — going to ride the bus, sitting in that little tiny back waiting room — did not think that someone like me would be a co-owner or be in this space at all running it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's one of many moments in \u003cem>A Fine Line\u003c/em> that resonated with chef \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/articles/429-elle-simone-discusses-her-unexpected-transition-from-food-stylist-to-tv-personality\">Elle Simone\u003c/a>, a food stylist who is also the first African-American cast member on the PBS series \u003cem>America's Test Kitchen\u003c/em> and founder of SheChef, a networking group for women of color in the food industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's a lack of representation in the top spots,\" says Simone, \"of women in general and women of color in particular. I saw that early on when I was an intern at the Food Network, especially as someone who wasn't coming from one of the big culinary schools, but from a school where all my classmates were black and brown people. I was lucky, but most people at the smaller schools don't even have the opportunity to get those internships, and even when you do, you don't usually see someone in charge who looks like you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many female chefs believe that offering mentorships and apprenticeships, as well as having women and women of color in leadership positions, is critical to establishing equal opportunities within the workplace and policies that provide more work-life balance. And organizations like the James Beard Foundation and Les Dames d'Escoffier have established programs aimed specifically at helping women advance within the culinary industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>James and Jordan have also begun connecting with local women legislators and entrepreneurs in the cities where the film has been showing to push for paid maternal leave, early childhood education programs, and equal pay for equal work — issues that they see as critical to helping female chefs gain traction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think what we need to create,\" says James, \"is an 'old girls' club,' with female accountants, tax attorneys, and so forth, who can help women in the culinary field achieve their goals. Good food is important, but it's about so much more than food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>A Fine Line\u003c/em> will be screened in a number of film festivals around the country this fall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2018 NPR. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Women+Chefs+Still+Walk+%27A+Fine+Line%27+In+The+Kitchen&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Don't Bug Out! The Smithsonian Channel Is Going To Show You How To Cook Insects",
"title": "Don't Bug Out! The Smithsonian Channel Is Going To Show You How To Cook Insects",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130198\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0138-tarantuladish_custom-b600d3ab99285d9d93494b02be48960fff3fec59-e1535485993707.jpg\" alt=\"Deep-fried tarantula. Hungry yet?\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1075\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130198\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Deep-fried tarantula. Hungry yet? \u003ccite>(Smithsonian Networks)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In a classic episode of \u003cem>Seinfeld\u003c/em> from 1991, Jerry famously declares that he thinks the worst part about being blind would be \"not being able to tell if there was bugs in my food. How could you ever enjoy a meal like that?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fast forward nearly three decades and opinions, at least here in the United States and also in Europe, haven't changed much. Insects are meant to be eradicated, not fricasseed, and on the rare occasion that they're ingested, it's either because of a mistake or a dare. But Joseph Giraldi, executive producer of \u003cem>Bug Bites\u003c/em>, a series of short cooking videos where insects feature as the main ingredient, thinks Westerners' attitudes — and palates — are finally catching up with the rest of the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The idea behind \u003cem>Bug Bites\u003c/em> was to expand our audience's awareness of something that, to many of the world's cultures, is actually quite common – eating insects,\" says Giraldi. \"We thought an exciting way to tell this story was through bite-size, easily digestible, five-minute episodes featuring some of the country's foremost experts in bug cooking, showcasing their recipes using a variety of insects.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The five-part series will be available for streaming starting Monday on SmithsonianChannel.com and Smithsonian Earth. For the chefs who are cooking up bugs in the five-minute episodes, the rise in \"foodie culture\" and environmentally friendly food sources may be helping to pave the way for insect acceptance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In Western countries, the aversion to bugs is out of proportion,\" says David George Gordon, author of \u003cem>The Eat-a-Bug Cookbook\u003c/em>. \"There's also a misguided perception that in the cultures where bugs are eaten, that they are eaten only out of desperation. The truth is that these insects are prized in other parts of the world, they aren't regarded as creepy-crawlies.\" Escamoles, the larvae and pupae of a specific type of ant native to parts of Mexico and the Southwest, are a good example: The ant eggs are a delicacy with a price tag to match, sometimes up to $100 per serving in a fine-dining restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On \u003cem>Bug Bites — \u003c/em>which is hosted by biologist Haley Chamberlain Nelson — Gordon prepares a deep-fried tarantula, singeing the hair off with a kitchen torch to improve its texture and dusting it with smoked paprika just before serving. His focus is on showcasing the critter — in this case, an arachnid, not an insect — as a tasty protein, rather than hiding it in a sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I want people to be really aware of the fact that they are eating bugs,\" he says. \"Martha Stewart says that we eat with our eyes, and, if you think about it, a cricket doesn't look offensive. It looks like a crawfish, and people love to eat crawfish.\" When you consider that crawfish are often referred to as \"mud bugs,\" the leap to eating crickets is not that far-fetched.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130199\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3834px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782.jpg\" alt='Crickets on a pizza? Chef David George Gordon likens the insects to crawfish. Chef Joseph Yoon agrees, calling them \"gateway bugs.\"' width=\"3834\" height=\"2157\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130199\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782.jpg 3834w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-1200x675.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3834px) 100vw, 3834px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crickets on a pizza? Chef David George Gordon likens the insects to crawfish. Chef Joseph Yoon agrees, calling them \"gateway bugs.\" \u003ccite>(Smithsonian Networks)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Joseph Yoon, chef and founder of Brooklyn Bugs, agrees, calling crickets \"gateway bugs.\" The protein he chose to prepare on \u003cem>Bug Bites\u003c/em>, however, was dried Manchurian scorpions, whose flavor he likens to brined shrimp or softshell crab.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What fascinates me most,\" says Yoon, \"is that there are over 1,900 edible insects. The sheer amount of different flavors and textures is incredible. It's a real wealth of new protein product available to chefs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Edible insects are, indeed, an excellent source of protein, when compared to more traditional sources like cattle and fish, as \u003ca href=\"http://www.fao.org/edible-insects/84625/en/\">noted\u003c/a> by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. Caterpillars, for instance, have been shown to have the \u003ca href=\"https://www.ent.iastate.edu/misc/insectnutrition.html\">same amount\u003c/a> of protein per 100 grams, or even more, as lean ground beef or cod, and can be raised in large numbers, with far less environmental impact than is \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/10/16/356648390/do-we-need-a-new-environmental-impact-label-for-beef\">often associated with common farming methods\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for the handful of chefs championing insects as ingredients, it ultimately comes down to just cooking food that people want to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If we think of it as a novelty, not as food,\" says Gordon, \"then we're missing the point. These are just tasty ingredients and we need to treat them that way.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, Gordon points out that mealworms have a flavor that's similar to mushrooms, so it doesn't make a whole lot of sense to use mealworms as a garnish for, say, ice cream. Would you put mushrooms on top of your ice cream sundae? Probably not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both Gordon and Yoon would like to see more professional chefs cooking with bugs for the simple reason that they are trained in cooking techniques and flavor profiles. They hope that \u003cem>Bug Bites\u003c/em> will be inspirational to chefs as well as home cooks and curious foodies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Chefs are the missing factor,\" Gordon says. \"They could be such an ally, especially because we actually have a younger generation who are really open to the idea of edible insects. They are interested in the spices and flavors coming from cultures all over the world and aren't afraid of new ingredients.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yoon concurs, pointing out that something like the citric note of black ants can add a new burst of flavor to a simple green salad. \"It's really a matter of being creative and innovative,\" he says, \"not sitting down to eat a massive mound of mealworms.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2018 NPR. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Don%27t+Bug+Out%21+The+Smithsonian+Channel+Is+Going+To+Show+You+How+To+Cook+Insects&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Dried Manchurian scorpions? Think softshell crabs. Crickets? They're not far from crawfish. A new series aims to showcase the flavors of edible insects — prized ingredients in parts of the world.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130198\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0138-tarantuladish_custom-b600d3ab99285d9d93494b02be48960fff3fec59-e1535485993707.jpg\" alt=\"Deep-fried tarantula. Hungry yet?\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1075\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130198\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Deep-fried tarantula. Hungry yet? \u003ccite>(Smithsonian Networks)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In a classic episode of \u003cem>Seinfeld\u003c/em> from 1991, Jerry famously declares that he thinks the worst part about being blind would be \"not being able to tell if there was bugs in my food. How could you ever enjoy a meal like that?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fast forward nearly three decades and opinions, at least here in the United States and also in Europe, haven't changed much. Insects are meant to be eradicated, not fricasseed, and on the rare occasion that they're ingested, it's either because of a mistake or a dare. But Joseph Giraldi, executive producer of \u003cem>Bug Bites\u003c/em>, a series of short cooking videos where insects feature as the main ingredient, thinks Westerners' attitudes — and palates — are finally catching up with the rest of the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The idea behind \u003cem>Bug Bites\u003c/em> was to expand our audience's awareness of something that, to many of the world's cultures, is actually quite common – eating insects,\" says Giraldi. \"We thought an exciting way to tell this story was through bite-size, easily digestible, five-minute episodes featuring some of the country's foremost experts in bug cooking, showcasing their recipes using a variety of insects.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The five-part series will be available for streaming starting Monday on SmithsonianChannel.com and Smithsonian Earth. For the chefs who are cooking up bugs in the five-minute episodes, the rise in \"foodie culture\" and environmentally friendly food sources may be helping to pave the way for insect acceptance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In Western countries, the aversion to bugs is out of proportion,\" says David George Gordon, author of \u003cem>The Eat-a-Bug Cookbook\u003c/em>. \"There's also a misguided perception that in the cultures where bugs are eaten, that they are eaten only out of desperation. The truth is that these insects are prized in other parts of the world, they aren't regarded as creepy-crawlies.\" Escamoles, the larvae and pupae of a specific type of ant native to parts of Mexico and the Southwest, are a good example: The ant eggs are a delicacy with a price tag to match, sometimes up to $100 per serving in a fine-dining restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On \u003cem>Bug Bites — \u003c/em>which is hosted by biologist Haley Chamberlain Nelson — Gordon prepares a deep-fried tarantula, singeing the hair off with a kitchen torch to improve its texture and dusting it with smoked paprika just before serving. His focus is on showcasing the critter — in this case, an arachnid, not an insect — as a tasty protein, rather than hiding it in a sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I want people to be really aware of the fact that they are eating bugs,\" he says. \"Martha Stewart says that we eat with our eyes, and, if you think about it, a cricket doesn't look offensive. It looks like a crawfish, and people love to eat crawfish.\" When you consider that crawfish are often referred to as \"mud bugs,\" the leap to eating crickets is not that far-fetched.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130199\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3834px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782.jpg\" alt='Crickets on a pizza? Chef David George Gordon likens the insects to crawfish. Chef Joseph Yoon agrees, calling them \"gateway bugs.\"' width=\"3834\" height=\"2157\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130199\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782.jpg 3834w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-1200x675.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/bugbites_id-0202-cricketsonpizzacloseup_wide-9e114fc832d4ea95d611229eca6b65f5e806b782-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3834px) 100vw, 3834px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crickets on a pizza? Chef David George Gordon likens the insects to crawfish. Chef Joseph Yoon agrees, calling them \"gateway bugs.\" \u003ccite>(Smithsonian Networks)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Joseph Yoon, chef and founder of Brooklyn Bugs, agrees, calling crickets \"gateway bugs.\" The protein he chose to prepare on \u003cem>Bug Bites\u003c/em>, however, was dried Manchurian scorpions, whose flavor he likens to brined shrimp or softshell crab.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What fascinates me most,\" says Yoon, \"is that there are over 1,900 edible insects. The sheer amount of different flavors and textures is incredible. It's a real wealth of new protein product available to chefs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Edible insects are, indeed, an excellent source of protein, when compared to more traditional sources like cattle and fish, as \u003ca href=\"http://www.fao.org/edible-insects/84625/en/\">noted\u003c/a> by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. Caterpillars, for instance, have been shown to have the \u003ca href=\"https://www.ent.iastate.edu/misc/insectnutrition.html\">same amount\u003c/a> of protein per 100 grams, or even more, as lean ground beef or cod, and can be raised in large numbers, with far less environmental impact than is \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/10/16/356648390/do-we-need-a-new-environmental-impact-label-for-beef\">often associated with common farming methods\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for the handful of chefs championing insects as ingredients, it ultimately comes down to just cooking food that people want to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If we think of it as a novelty, not as food,\" says Gordon, \"then we're missing the point. These are just tasty ingredients and we need to treat them that way.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, Gordon points out that mealworms have a flavor that's similar to mushrooms, so it doesn't make a whole lot of sense to use mealworms as a garnish for, say, ice cream. Would you put mushrooms on top of your ice cream sundae? Probably not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both Gordon and Yoon would like to see more professional chefs cooking with bugs for the simple reason that they are trained in cooking techniques and flavor profiles. They hope that \u003cem>Bug Bites\u003c/em> will be inspirational to chefs as well as home cooks and curious foodies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Chefs are the missing factor,\" Gordon says. \"They could be such an ally, especially because we actually have a younger generation who are really open to the idea of edible insects. They are interested in the spices and flavors coming from cultures all over the world and aren't afraid of new ingredients.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yoon concurs, pointing out that something like the citric note of black ants can add a new burst of flavor to a simple green salad. \"It's really a matter of being creative and innovative,\" he says, \"not sitting down to eat a massive mound of mealworms.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2018 NPR. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Don%27t+Bug+Out%21+The+Smithsonian+Channel+Is+Going+To+Show+You+How+To+Cook+Insects&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Check, Please! Bay Area Returns for Season 13",
"title": "Check, Please! Bay Area Returns for Season 13",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>KQED’s James Beard and Emmy Award-winning program \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/checkplease\">\u003cem>Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/em>\u003c/a> is back. The 13th season premieres on Thursday, April 26, 2018, at 7:30pm on KQED 9. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>New guests celebrate their favorite Bay Area restaurants and host \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/host-biography\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Leslie Sbrocco\u003c/a> moderates the conversation adding humor, wit and expertise. Season 13 features 20 new episodes, including five specials that bundle restaurants from past seasons. The broadcast schedule kicks off on April 26 followed by new shows starting: July 12 and September 13. Watch any show online at \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/checkplease\">\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Check, Please! Bay Area.\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In every \u003cem>Check, Please!\u003c/em> episode, each guest chooses their favorite place to eat and the other two guests visit anonymously — the restaurants are not notified when \u003cem>Check, Please!\u003c/em> “reviewers” are dining there. After trying each other’s recommendations, they join host and moderator Leslie Sbrocco to discuss, dispute, and celebrate their dining experiences with lively commentary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Season 13 celebrates the unique and colorful people that call the Bay Area home. Guests for this season include attorneys, venture capitalists, hairdressers, DJs, an Indian Tribal Councilor, as well as drag stars Sister Roma and Bebe Sweetbriar, and celebrity chef Ryan Scott.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Restaurants featured in the first half of the 13th season come from all corners of the Bay Area and include Speisekammer German Restaurant (Alameda), Kate’s Kitchen (San Francisco), ADEGA (San Jose), Rocco’s Cafe (San Francisco), Arun Thai (Novato), La Marcha Tapas Bar (Berkeley), Copper Spoon Cocktails & Kitchen (Oakland), Buck’s of Woodside (Woodside), Gardenias Restaurant (San Francisco), Noodles Pho Me (San Leandro) and Maybeck’s (San Francisco).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Check Please guests always surprise and delight me!” says Sbrocco. “They have an endless appetite for new restaurants and cuisines and never fail to bring a fresh perspective. With each episode, we get to explore these Bay Area favorites with the people who know them best.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Each year we’re thrilled by the number of people who are passionate about our local restaurant scene” Producer Tina Salter adds. “There are an endless number of Bay Area eateries and people love them for different reasons. Our guests will help you find the unpretentious neighborhood spot, date night classic or something new and unexpected.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/em> takes applications year round. Interested parties can \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/apply\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>apply to be a guest\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get ready for Season 13 by binge watching episodes from \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/category/season-12/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Season 12\u003c/a>!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": "KQED’s James Beard and Emmy Award-winning program Check, Please! Bay Area is back. The 13th season premieres on Thursday, April 26, 2018, at 7:30pm on KQED 9.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>KQED’s James Beard and Emmy Award-winning program \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/checkplease\">\u003cem>Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/em>\u003c/a> is back. The 13th season premieres on Thursday, April 26, 2018, at 7:30pm on KQED 9. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>New guests celebrate their favorite Bay Area restaurants and host \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/host-biography\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Leslie Sbrocco\u003c/a> moderates the conversation adding humor, wit and expertise. Season 13 features 20 new episodes, including five specials that bundle restaurants from past seasons. The broadcast schedule kicks off on April 26 followed by new shows starting: July 12 and September 13. Watch any show online at \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/checkplease\">\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Check, Please! Bay Area.\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In every \u003cem>Check, Please!\u003c/em> episode, each guest chooses their favorite place to eat and the other two guests visit anonymously — the restaurants are not notified when \u003cem>Check, Please!\u003c/em> “reviewers” are dining there. After trying each other’s recommendations, they join host and moderator Leslie Sbrocco to discuss, dispute, and celebrate their dining experiences with lively commentary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Season 13 celebrates the unique and colorful people that call the Bay Area home. Guests for this season include attorneys, venture capitalists, hairdressers, DJs, an Indian Tribal Councilor, as well as drag stars Sister Roma and Bebe Sweetbriar, and celebrity chef Ryan Scott.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Restaurants featured in the first half of the 13th season come from all corners of the Bay Area and include Speisekammer German Restaurant (Alameda), Kate’s Kitchen (San Francisco), ADEGA (San Jose), Rocco’s Cafe (San Francisco), Arun Thai (Novato), La Marcha Tapas Bar (Berkeley), Copper Spoon Cocktails & Kitchen (Oakland), Buck’s of Woodside (Woodside), Gardenias Restaurant (San Francisco), Noodles Pho Me (San Leandro) and Maybeck’s (San Francisco).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Check Please guests always surprise and delight me!” says Sbrocco. “They have an endless appetite for new restaurants and cuisines and never fail to bring a fresh perspective. With each episode, we get to explore these Bay Area favorites with the people who know them best.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Each year we’re thrilled by the number of people who are passionate about our local restaurant scene” Producer Tina Salter adds. “There are an endless number of Bay Area eateries and people love them for different reasons. Our guests will help you find the unpretentious neighborhood spot, date night classic or something new and unexpected.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/em> takes applications year round. Interested parties can \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/apply\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>apply to be a guest\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get ready for Season 13 by binge watching episodes from \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/category/season-12/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Season 12\u003c/a>!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Oscar-Nominated 'Knife Skills' Showcases Ex-Cons And Odd Ducks In The Kitchen",
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"content": "\u003cp>Filmmaker Thomas Lennon was not looking for a new film project when he went to dinner at a friend's house; he was just trying to make conversation with a fellow guest who was, in Lennon's words, \"an odd duck.\" However, says Lennon, \"I'm a filmmaker, so I ask people questions. What unfolded was this story — and you'd have to be deaf, dumb and blind to not know that there was potential there.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result of that initial encounter was \u003cem>Knife Skills\u003c/em>, nominated this year for an Academy Award in the documentary (Short Subject) category. It follows the opening of \u003ca href=\"https://edwinsrestaurant.org/\">Edwins\u003c/a>, a fine-dining restaurant in Cleveland that is staffed almost entirely by former prison inmates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Edwins is the brainchild of Lennon's \"odd duck\" dinner companion, Brandon Chrostowski, a former employee of New York restaurateurs David and Karen Waltuck, the hosts of that fateful dinner party. Chrostowski's memory of the occasion, however, is a little different: \"David made meatloaf with shiitake mushrooms in it,\" says Chrostowski. \"It was an exquisite meatloaf.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a telling comment from a man who says, \"A restaurant saved my life.\" He clearly loves food and has the restless, unrelenting energy found in so many in the restaurant industry — a community that regularly embraces odd ducks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[vimeo 227171872 w=640 h=360]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chrostowski grew up in Detroit, in a family where he says he wasn't expected to accomplish much. He seemed to be well on the way to fulfilling that prediction when he found himself standing in front of a judge with the power to impose a 10-year sentence for a drug offense. Instead, he was given the opportunity to be mentored in a local restaurant, beginning a career path that would take him to train at the Culinary Institute of America and work in both the front and back of the house in a series of acclaimed restaurants in New York and France. Along the way, he also became a sommelier and fromager.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Chrostowski specifically chose to go to Cleveland to create a kind of hybrid \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=266&v=1OBIIZencM0\">restaurant and social services concept\u003c/a> to provide education, housing and steady employment for ex-convicts, who face few prospects and daunting recidivism rates: \u003ca href=\"https://www.nij.gov/topics/corrections/recidivism/Pages/welcome.aspx\">National statistics\u003c/a> show that some 67 percent of inmates are rearrested within three years of release. Why Cleveland? Because the city boasted some of the country's lowest high school graduation rates in 1998, the year that Chrostowski barely graduated from high school himself and almost ended up in prison. He felt that there was a population in this Midwestern city that he both understood and could help.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Chrostowski says in the film, \"I often feel ugly ... When I work in a restaurant, I can put on a suit and feel great.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was this rawness, this need to share stories of pain and joy, that grabbed Lennon as he arrived at Edwins to document the opening of the restaurant in 2013. \"I was unprepared for how vulnerable these men and women were, how exposed they felt,\" says Lennon. \"They were so eager to talk, to be heard, to listen to advice, to ask questions. That was attractive to me as a filmmaker, but, at the same time, I felt protective, I wanted to wrap a thick layer of skin around them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, when some of the former inmates profiled in the film share their feelings, the words are heart wrenching. Marley Kichinka, a drug offender, says at one point, \"Heroin took over my whole life. I'd go to sleep and pray not to wake up, and I'd be so mad to be alive.\" She finds her passion in the all-consuming energy and chaos of the kitchen, even though there are setbacks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film itself highlights the discipline of high-end restaurant work, the importance of how to julienne a zucchini perfectly every time, recommending the correct cheese and wine pairings, the pronunciation of unfamiliar French ingredients and techniques. For Lennon, the setting was essential to the narrative. \"People are interested in food,\" he says, \"so, rather than tackle the subject matter of reentry into life after prison directly, this gave me a surprising way of telling that story. I want to tell you what life is like for people coming out of prison, but if I take you inside this improbable restaurant, you're really going to learn what it's like in a way that could be more accessible.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125404\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1433px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-125404\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8.jpe\" alt=\"Marley Kichinka, a trainee at Edwins who previously struggled with heroin addiction. She finds her passion in the all-consuming energy and chaos of the kitchen, even though there are setbacks.\" width=\"1433\" height=\"1075\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8.jpe 1433w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8-160x120.jpe 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8-800x600.jpe 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8-768x576.jpe 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8-1020x765.jpe 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8-1180x885.jpe 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8-960x720.jpe 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8-240x180.jpe 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8-375x281.jpe 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8-520x390.jpe 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1433px) 100vw, 1433px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marley Kichinka, a trainee at Edwins who previously struggled with heroin addiction. She finds her passion in the all-consuming energy and chaos of the kitchen, even though there are setbacks. \u003ccite>(TFL Films LLC)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Indeed, restaurant kitchens across the country are top employers of former inmates, according to \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org\">Restaurant Opportunities Centers United.\u003c/a> But Chrostowski has found that restaurant owners typically don't want to have that particular statistic broadcast to their patrons. As shown in \u003cem>Knife Skills,\u003c/em> trumpeting the ex-con staff can be used to help fill seats with curious diners, but the goal is to provide top-notch food and service so the seats will stay filled when the novelty has worn off — not to mention provide the staff with skills that can translate into well-paying jobs. So far, Edwins has had 250 former inmates graduate from its program, with 98 percent employment rates and just 1 percent recidivism. The restaurant itself has been awarded three stars from the \u003cem>Cleveland Plain Dealer\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, as captured in the film, it's a delicate dance. During one scene, Chrostowski expresses concern over a trainee behind the bar who might have an addiction issue, which prompted filmmaker Lennon and editor Nick August-Perna to consider how to respectfully share that moment. \"The film doesn't resolve whether that person has addiction issues,\" says Lennon, \"but I thought it was an important window into Brandon's methodology, that executive toughness of saying, 'Let's give him an hour but if he can't f------ do it, let's get him out of there.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the scene, Chrostowski offers a quick, but important, compliment to the trainee who has just delivered a glass of wine to a customer, saying, \"That's a perfect pour.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Chrostowski, those are the moments that show him that \u003cem>Knife Skills\u003c/em> has accomplished exactly what he hoped it would.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There were half a dozen media outlets calling me who wanted to do a reality show,\" he says, \"and I just kept saying 'No, thank you.\" But when I met Tom [Lennon], I believed he had integrity. I needed someone to capture the truth so it would be accessible to everyone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/04/13/520000573/kristenhartke.com\">\u003cem>Kristen Hartke\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> is a food writer based in Washington, D.C.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Filmmaker Thomas Lennon was not looking for a new film project when he went to dinner at a friend's house; he was just trying to make conversation with a fellow guest who was, in Lennon's words, \"an odd duck.\" However, says Lennon, \"I'm a filmmaker, so I ask people questions. What unfolded was this story — and you'd have to be deaf, dumb and blind to not know that there was potential there.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result of that initial encounter was \u003cem>Knife Skills\u003c/em>, nominated this year for an Academy Award in the documentary (Short Subject) category. It follows the opening of \u003ca href=\"https://edwinsrestaurant.org/\">Edwins\u003c/a>, a fine-dining restaurant in Cleveland that is staffed almost entirely by former prison inmates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Edwins is the brainchild of Lennon's \"odd duck\" dinner companion, Brandon Chrostowski, a former employee of New York restaurateurs David and Karen Waltuck, the hosts of that fateful dinner party. Chrostowski's memory of the occasion, however, is a little different: \"David made meatloaf with shiitake mushrooms in it,\" says Chrostowski. \"It was an exquisite meatloaf.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a telling comment from a man who says, \"A restaurant saved my life.\" He clearly loves food and has the restless, unrelenting energy found in so many in the restaurant industry — a community that regularly embraces odd ducks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chrostowski grew up in Detroit, in a family where he says he wasn't expected to accomplish much. He seemed to be well on the way to fulfilling that prediction when he found himself standing in front of a judge with the power to impose a 10-year sentence for a drug offense. Instead, he was given the opportunity to be mentored in a local restaurant, beginning a career path that would take him to train at the Culinary Institute of America and work in both the front and back of the house in a series of acclaimed restaurants in New York and France. Along the way, he also became a sommelier and fromager.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Chrostowski specifically chose to go to Cleveland to create a kind of hybrid \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=266&v=1OBIIZencM0\">restaurant and social services concept\u003c/a> to provide education, housing and steady employment for ex-convicts, who face few prospects and daunting recidivism rates: \u003ca href=\"https://www.nij.gov/topics/corrections/recidivism/Pages/welcome.aspx\">National statistics\u003c/a> show that some 67 percent of inmates are rearrested within three years of release. Why Cleveland? Because the city boasted some of the country's lowest high school graduation rates in 1998, the year that Chrostowski barely graduated from high school himself and almost ended up in prison. He felt that there was a population in this Midwestern city that he both understood and could help.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Chrostowski says in the film, \"I often feel ugly ... When I work in a restaurant, I can put on a suit and feel great.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was this rawness, this need to share stories of pain and joy, that grabbed Lennon as he arrived at Edwins to document the opening of the restaurant in 2013. \"I was unprepared for how vulnerable these men and women were, how exposed they felt,\" says Lennon. \"They were so eager to talk, to be heard, to listen to advice, to ask questions. That was attractive to me as a filmmaker, but, at the same time, I felt protective, I wanted to wrap a thick layer of skin around them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, when some of the former inmates profiled in the film share their feelings, the words are heart wrenching. Marley Kichinka, a drug offender, says at one point, \"Heroin took over my whole life. I'd go to sleep and pray not to wake up, and I'd be so mad to be alive.\" She finds her passion in the all-consuming energy and chaos of the kitchen, even though there are setbacks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film itself highlights the discipline of high-end restaurant work, the importance of how to julienne a zucchini perfectly every time, recommending the correct cheese and wine pairings, the pronunciation of unfamiliar French ingredients and techniques. For Lennon, the setting was essential to the narrative. \"People are interested in food,\" he says, \"so, rather than tackle the subject matter of reentry into life after prison directly, this gave me a surprising way of telling that story. I want to tell you what life is like for people coming out of prison, but if I take you inside this improbable restaurant, you're really going to learn what it's like in a way that could be more accessible.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125404\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1433px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-125404\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8.jpe\" alt=\"Marley Kichinka, a trainee at Edwins who previously struggled with heroin addiction. She finds her passion in the all-consuming energy and chaos of the kitchen, even though there are setbacks.\" width=\"1433\" height=\"1075\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8.jpe 1433w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8-160x120.jpe 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8-800x600.jpe 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8-768x576.jpe 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8-1020x765.jpe 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8-1180x885.jpe 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8-960x720.jpe 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8-240x180.jpe 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8-375x281.jpe 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/marley-7d40b7c01dad213c2c424a776098e24a8f8c19d8-520x390.jpe 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1433px) 100vw, 1433px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marley Kichinka, a trainee at Edwins who previously struggled with heroin addiction. She finds her passion in the all-consuming energy and chaos of the kitchen, even though there are setbacks. \u003ccite>(TFL Films LLC)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Indeed, restaurant kitchens across the country are top employers of former inmates, according to \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org\">Restaurant Opportunities Centers United.\u003c/a> But Chrostowski has found that restaurant owners typically don't want to have that particular statistic broadcast to their patrons. As shown in \u003cem>Knife Skills,\u003c/em> trumpeting the ex-con staff can be used to help fill seats with curious diners, but the goal is to provide top-notch food and service so the seats will stay filled when the novelty has worn off — not to mention provide the staff with skills that can translate into well-paying jobs. So far, Edwins has had 250 former inmates graduate from its program, with 98 percent employment rates and just 1 percent recidivism. The restaurant itself has been awarded three stars from the \u003cem>Cleveland Plain Dealer\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, as captured in the film, it's a delicate dance. During one scene, Chrostowski expresses concern over a trainee behind the bar who might have an addiction issue, which prompted filmmaker Lennon and editor Nick August-Perna to consider how to respectfully share that moment. \"The film doesn't resolve whether that person has addiction issues,\" says Lennon, \"but I thought it was an important window into Brandon's methodology, that executive toughness of saying, 'Let's give him an hour but if he can't f------ do it, let's get him out of there.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the scene, Chrostowski offers a quick, but important, compliment to the trainee who has just delivered a glass of wine to a customer, saying, \"That's a perfect pour.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Chrostowski, those are the moments that show him that \u003cem>Knife Skills\u003c/em> has accomplished exactly what he hoped it would.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There were half a dozen media outlets calling me who wanted to do a reality show,\" he says, \"and I just kept saying 'No, thank you.\" But when I met Tom [Lennon], I believed he had integrity. I needed someone to capture the truth so it would be accessible to everyone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/04/13/520000573/kristenhartke.com\">\u003cem>Kristen Hartke\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> is a food writer based in Washington, D.C.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Chef David Chang Dishes On The 'Ugly' Side Of 'Delicious' Food",
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"content": "\u003cp>Chef David Chang's new Netflix show \u003cem>Ugly Delicious\u003c/em> dives deep into how some of his favorite kinds of foods — from pizza to fried chicken — are made all over the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://momofuku.com/\">Chang\u003c/a> tells \u003cem>Here & Now\u003c/em>'s Jeremy Hobson the term that became \u003ca href=\"https://www.netflix.com/title/80170368\">the show's title\u003c/a> originated as an Instagram hashtag, and an inside joke with his cooks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The most delicious stuff is like a bowl of curry on rice, and that's not gonna inspire a cookbook or a cover of a \u003cem>Bon Appétit\u003c/em> magazine,\" Chang says. \"And all of this food [history] is sometimes not being told, and it's not being appreciated enough in the world we live in right now.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On deciding which foods to focus on in the show\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was hard to figure out what we were even gonna do, so we narrowed it down to just themes, and then those themes became, 'Wait, why don't we just talk about specific foods, and go down that rabbit hole, and how that intersects with culture and something like pizza or fried chicken, or the idea of barbecue.' So that was it. It was like, 'OK, let's talk about the stories that sometimes are told. But we're gonna create conversations in ways that maybe people really wanna talk about pizza, or fried chicken.'\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/pN_XItALHmM\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On talking with chefs like Mark Iacono, of the Brooklyn restaurant Lucali\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp data-reactid=\"302\">Mark's one of my favorite, favorite chefs. There's there's just something romantic about watching Mark make pizza, because he uses a wine bottle instead of a traditional rolling pin. And even though he's just making pizzas, it's one of my favorite spots to go. But you get to hear their philosophy. It's not just a profile, and we're not even really talking about Mark. We're trying to get his understanding of what it's like to be an Italian-American — very quickly — and inheriting the sort of ... I don't wanna say the burden, but the responsibility of carrying on that tradition that came with all the Italian immigrants to New York City.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On traveling to New York and Tokyo for the pizza episode\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're trying to define what pizza is, how it came from, where do people think is the best pizza. ... I believe that the best pizza in the world for me — I can't speak for anyone else — is in Tokyo, and creating those conversations, or sometimes maybe the best pizza in the world, for me, is in New Haven. Which again, all of these things are talked about, written about, but trying to present it and cobbled together in a way that maybe the audience might not have heard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how one food can taste totally different depending on where you are\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It really shows you that we're all making sort of the same thing. And what changes that are cultural beliefs, cultural biases. There's no universal truth about any food. Because we have so many beliefs and we have so many cultural truths, you're gonna have that variation in food, not just with ingredients. I mean, fried chicken is probably cooked the world around, all over, but it's a specific story for each person.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the show exploring history and culture\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What better way to represent history and culture than through food? And fried chicken is a perfect example of just how dense a subject can be. One of the reasons it's dense is, rarely do people wanna talk about the terrible hardships that fried chicken was born out of, and then presenting questions like, should you even talk about it? Should you even know the history of fried chicken to enjoy fried chicken? Because fried chicken in and of itself is delicious, and these are some of the conversations we're trying to have.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On his favorite thing he ate while making the show\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's pretty easy. Well, I'll say domestically it was the crawfish at \u003ca href=\"https://www.visithoustontexas.com/listings/crawfish-%26-noodles/23384/\">Crawfish & Noodles\u003c/a> in Houston, eating Viet-Cajun crawfish, which is a tremendous modern-day fusion that's happening before our very eyes. It's a merger of Vietnamese flavors and Cajun, which are very similar, believe it or not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And internationally I would have to say it's the real-deal Peking duck in Beijing, cooked over jujube wood that's processed in a very special way that produces the most fabulous duck skin and juicy, juicy meat. That's a dish that I would travel to China just to eat. I really would. It's that good. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.wbur.org\">WBUR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was hard to figure out what we were even gonna do, so we narrowed it down to just themes, and then those themes became, 'Wait, why don't we just talk about specific foods, and go down that rabbit hole, and how that intersects with culture and something like pizza or fried chicken, or the idea of barbecue.' So that was it. It was like, 'OK, let's talk about the stories that sometimes are told. But we're gonna create conversations in ways that maybe people really wanna talk about pizza, or fried chicken.'\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/pN_XItALHmM'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/pN_XItALHmM'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On talking with chefs like Mark Iacono, of the Brooklyn restaurant Lucali\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp data-reactid=\"302\">Mark's one of my favorite, favorite chefs. There's there's just something romantic about watching Mark make pizza, because he uses a wine bottle instead of a traditional rolling pin. And even though he's just making pizzas, it's one of my favorite spots to go. But you get to hear their philosophy. It's not just a profile, and we're not even really talking about Mark. We're trying to get his understanding of what it's like to be an Italian-American — very quickly — and inheriting the sort of ... I don't wanna say the burden, but the responsibility of carrying on that tradition that came with all the Italian immigrants to New York City.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On traveling to New York and Tokyo for the pizza episode\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're trying to define what pizza is, how it came from, where do people think is the best pizza. ... I believe that the best pizza in the world for me — I can't speak for anyone else — is in Tokyo, and creating those conversations, or sometimes maybe the best pizza in the world, for me, is in New Haven. Which again, all of these things are talked about, written about, but trying to present it and cobbled together in a way that maybe the audience might not have heard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how one food can taste totally different depending on where you are\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It really shows you that we're all making sort of the same thing. And what changes that are cultural beliefs, cultural biases. There's no universal truth about any food. Because we have so many beliefs and we have so many cultural truths, you're gonna have that variation in food, not just with ingredients. I mean, fried chicken is probably cooked the world around, all over, but it's a specific story for each person.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the show exploring history and culture\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What better way to represent history and culture than through food? And fried chicken is a perfect example of just how dense a subject can be. One of the reasons it's dense is, rarely do people wanna talk about the terrible hardships that fried chicken was born out of, and then presenting questions like, should you even talk about it? Should you even know the history of fried chicken to enjoy fried chicken? Because fried chicken in and of itself is delicious, and these are some of the conversations we're trying to have.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On his favorite thing he ate while making the show\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's pretty easy. Well, I'll say domestically it was the crawfish at \u003ca href=\"https://www.visithoustontexas.com/listings/crawfish-%26-noodles/23384/\">Crawfish & Noodles\u003c/a> in Houston, eating Viet-Cajun crawfish, which is a tremendous modern-day fusion that's happening before our very eyes. It's a merger of Vietnamese flavors and Cajun, which are very similar, believe it or not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And internationally I would have to say it's the real-deal Peking duck in Beijing, cooked over jujube wood that's processed in a very special way that produces the most fabulous duck skin and juicy, juicy meat. That's a dish that I would travel to China just to eat. I really would. It's that good. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.wbur.org\">WBUR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>On a fall evening in Emeryville, CA, Martin Yan is affable and happy about taping his show in front of a studio audience. Just back from a trip to Chengdu, China, he excitedly shows the audience—on this particular evening, a group of KQED members—footage that they shot while on location in Chengdu: adorable pandas chewing on bamboo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yan is best known as the energetic, crowd-pleasing Chinese American host of the long-running cooking show, \u003cem>Yan Can Cook\u003c/em>. He is also a restaurateur, cookbook author, and has his own line of kitchen appliances. \u003cem>Yan Can Cook\u003c/em> launched in 1979, premiering on Canadian TV and then landing on PBS in 1982. For the past 38 years, he’s filmed more than 3,500 cooking show episodes in the U.S. and internationally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yan is taping the cooking portion of the show on that particular evening, making a Malaysian shrimp dish with spicy chili coconut milk. I caught up with the host just before the taping in the Emeryville studio. CAAM has honored Yan at CAAMFeast. The new season, “Yan Can Cook: Spice Kingdom” and “Taste of Malaysia with Martin Yan” premieres February 14, 2018 on PBS (\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/tv/programs/index.jsp?pgmid=24849\">KQED TV program schedule\u003c/a>). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/a-fcBLpTeP4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Throughout these years, what are some reflections you have about \u003cem>Yan Can Cook\u003c/em>?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nActually, I was probably one of the first Asian Americans breaking in the mainstream media as a daily cooking show host. Our show used to be daily. We produced 130 shows a year. That means it lasts for six months, and it repeats once. Since then, we have done close to 3,500 cooking shows worldwide. I’ve probably done more shows than most people on Earth. And this is one of the longest continuous running food and travel shows in the planet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Can you talk about the series and where it’s filmed?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWhen I was in Chengdu, we made \u003cem>Yan Can Cook Chengdu.\u003c/em> Everything I do is \u003cem>Yan Can Cook Chengdu, Yan Can Cook Thailand\u003c/em>. What makes our show unique is we’re not just doing food. We’re talking about heritage, history, food, and culture. We have a big crew, 20 some people travel all over Korea, all over Chengdu, to film. We have 65 percent of the show content is on location. About 35 percent is studio cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I brought back a lot of props, a lot of ingredients, and a lot of cooking techniques that I learned. I basically want to share with the people in North America. Because chefs don’t know how to present it to the home cooks. They just do it in big woks and big fires, and nobody can do it at home. Here, I basically interpret, using the same technique and same ingredients and I do it the way they can do it at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>When you go to travel, are you also learning to dishes?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nOf course. I cannot possibly be the expert of all cuisines. We finished \u003cem>Taste of Vietnam\u003c/em>, which was broadcast two years ago, and we just finished \u003cem>Taste of Malaysia\u003c/em>, which will broadcast in February.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You’ve been doing this a long time—introducing Chinese cooking to an American audience. Do you feel like non-Chinese people, are seeing Chinese food differently now?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI think things are changing so fast. There are lot more businesses going on in China. You go to the Great Wall, about one-tenth of the people of the tourists are from America. The first thing they go there, is to eat local food. This is the same thing why Thai, Vietnamese and Japanese food is so popular. A lot of people travel there. When you get there, you taste local flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think Chinese food has made the inroads over 150 years ago and continues to be popular [in the U.S.]. The different thing is, the transition from typical chop suey, chow mien food culture, to more sophisticated, more refined, and more diverse regional cuisine. Now you can see restaurants that specialize in dumplings, or like Din Tai Fung, \u003cem>xiao long bao\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Now we have chefs like Brandon Jew of Mister Jiu’s and other people who are redefining Chinese cuisine. They’re changing ingredients, using organic ingredients, and adding their interpretation of traditional dishes. What are your thoughts about the new wave of Chinese cooking in the U.S.?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHuman history is always evolving. I’m a more traditionalist, and everything I do is more traditional. Even though I also go to the fact that, “Hey, if you don’t find betelnuts or this and that, use almonds use other things.” But that kind of inclusion of ingredients doesn’t mean you’re changing it. I’m quite sure a lot of the young chefs have a good understanding of the basic principle of Asian techniques, the spirit of Asian cuisine, whether it is Chinese, Japanese. One of the top Japanese chefs basically combines some of the French techniques and Japanese techniques together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You see a lot of Chinese and Asian chefs—you go to Slanted Door or Chef Tony at MY China (Yan’s restaurant in San Francisco)—they’re all using their own training and culinary foundation to explore new frontiers. I think it’s great for young chefs to explore new things as long as they’re offering something really, really fresh, healthy, delicious, and have the right audience. Being creative, being inventive, being contemporary, and still maintaining the basic foundation is the way to go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your favorite dishes to cook at home?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMost chefs, even if they love to cook at home, they normally cook the simplest. I stock up my restaurant with all the seasoning and basic ingredients. I always have a lot of leafy vegetables. This is my basic diet. I eat a vegetable-based diet. I haven’t gained a pound in 30 years. I’m not a vegetarian but I read a lot of articles about how healthy a vegetable-based diet is. And using meat as a condiment and as flavoring agent rather than eat a lot of meat. We are a nation of overeating. The key is to eat properly, have the right diet, and exercise. I work with AARP as an ambassador with Gary Locke and we promote an active lifestyle, healthy lifestyle, and to socialize.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of people in America when they get older, they stay put at home and watch television. I encourage them to get up, and move around and say hello to your neighbor. Cooking something at home and share with your neighbors. The whole idea is sharing. When you share, you have a sense of satisfaction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People always say, why don’t you retire? If I enjoy what I’m doing, why should I retire? I went to see Lionel Richie. This guy is about 70 years old. Still singing and jumping around! All these entertainers and actors and Supreme Court justices. If you feel that you’re making a contribution and enjoy what you do, why retire?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you feel like you’re doing more now?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI don’t know what happened! In my old age, I seem to be a lot busier. I used to only do things in America. Now I do things all over the world. I have more projects than I can handle in Asia. I can speak Mandarin, Cantonese, English and some Toisanese—I encourage a lot of people to be bilingual.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So for this next season, what can the audience look forward to?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI bring you the very best of the cuisine, where the cuisine came from, the history, the cultural backdrop, the heritage, and along the way, the art and craft, because that’s a part of the lifestyle. Not only you eat healthy, you cook healthy, but we’re living; it’s a living world. You gotta enjoy life. So basically, I’m happy to be where I am. I don’t think I’ll ever dream or contemplate retirement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://caamedia.org/blog/2018/02/14/martin-yans-yan-can-cook-back-on-tv-in-time-for-valentines-day-lunar-new-year/\">CAAMedia.org\u003c/a> (Center for Asian American Media)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Momo Chang caught up with the Martin Yan just before the taping in the Emeryville studio. CAAM has honored Yan at CAAMFeast. The new season, “Yan Can Cook: Spice Kingdom” and “Taste of Malaysia with Martin Yan” premieres February 14, 2018 (check local listings) on PBS.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>On a fall evening in Emeryville, CA, Martin Yan is affable and happy about taping his show in front of a studio audience. Just back from a trip to Chengdu, China, he excitedly shows the audience—on this particular evening, a group of KQED members—footage that they shot while on location in Chengdu: adorable pandas chewing on bamboo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yan is best known as the energetic, crowd-pleasing Chinese American host of the long-running cooking show, \u003cem>Yan Can Cook\u003c/em>. He is also a restaurateur, cookbook author, and has his own line of kitchen appliances. \u003cem>Yan Can Cook\u003c/em> launched in 1979, premiering on Canadian TV and then landing on PBS in 1982. For the past 38 years, he’s filmed more than 3,500 cooking show episodes in the U.S. and internationally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yan is taping the cooking portion of the show on that particular evening, making a Malaysian shrimp dish with spicy chili coconut milk. I caught up with the host just before the taping in the Emeryville studio. CAAM has honored Yan at CAAMFeast. The new season, “Yan Can Cook: Spice Kingdom” and “Taste of Malaysia with Martin Yan” premieres February 14, 2018 on PBS (\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/tv/programs/index.jsp?pgmid=24849\">KQED TV program schedule\u003c/a>). \u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/a-fcBLpTeP4'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/a-fcBLpTeP4'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Throughout these years, what are some reflections you have about \u003cem>Yan Can Cook\u003c/em>?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nActually, I was probably one of the first Asian Americans breaking in the mainstream media as a daily cooking show host. Our show used to be daily. We produced 130 shows a year. That means it lasts for six months, and it repeats once. Since then, we have done close to 3,500 cooking shows worldwide. I’ve probably done more shows than most people on Earth. And this is one of the longest continuous running food and travel shows in the planet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Can you talk about the series and where it’s filmed?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWhen I was in Chengdu, we made \u003cem>Yan Can Cook Chengdu.\u003c/em> Everything I do is \u003cem>Yan Can Cook Chengdu, Yan Can Cook Thailand\u003c/em>. What makes our show unique is we’re not just doing food. We’re talking about heritage, history, food, and culture. We have a big crew, 20 some people travel all over Korea, all over Chengdu, to film. We have 65 percent of the show content is on location. About 35 percent is studio cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I brought back a lot of props, a lot of ingredients, and a lot of cooking techniques that I learned. I basically want to share with the people in North America. Because chefs don’t know how to present it to the home cooks. They just do it in big woks and big fires, and nobody can do it at home. Here, I basically interpret, using the same technique and same ingredients and I do it the way they can do it at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>When you go to travel, are you also learning to dishes?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nOf course. I cannot possibly be the expert of all cuisines. We finished \u003cem>Taste of Vietnam\u003c/em>, which was broadcast two years ago, and we just finished \u003cem>Taste of Malaysia\u003c/em>, which will broadcast in February.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You’ve been doing this a long time—introducing Chinese cooking to an American audience. Do you feel like non-Chinese people, are seeing Chinese food differently now?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI think things are changing so fast. There are lot more businesses going on in China. You go to the Great Wall, about one-tenth of the people of the tourists are from America. The first thing they go there, is to eat local food. This is the same thing why Thai, Vietnamese and Japanese food is so popular. A lot of people travel there. When you get there, you taste local flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think Chinese food has made the inroads over 150 years ago and continues to be popular [in the U.S.]. The different thing is, the transition from typical chop suey, chow mien food culture, to more sophisticated, more refined, and more diverse regional cuisine. Now you can see restaurants that specialize in dumplings, or like Din Tai Fung, \u003cem>xiao long bao\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Now we have chefs like Brandon Jew of Mister Jiu’s and other people who are redefining Chinese cuisine. They’re changing ingredients, using organic ingredients, and adding their interpretation of traditional dishes. What are your thoughts about the new wave of Chinese cooking in the U.S.?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHuman history is always evolving. I’m a more traditionalist, and everything I do is more traditional. Even though I also go to the fact that, “Hey, if you don’t find betelnuts or this and that, use almonds use other things.” But that kind of inclusion of ingredients doesn’t mean you’re changing it. I’m quite sure a lot of the young chefs have a good understanding of the basic principle of Asian techniques, the spirit of Asian cuisine, whether it is Chinese, Japanese. One of the top Japanese chefs basically combines some of the French techniques and Japanese techniques together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You see a lot of Chinese and Asian chefs—you go to Slanted Door or Chef Tony at MY China (Yan’s restaurant in San Francisco)—they’re all using their own training and culinary foundation to explore new frontiers. I think it’s great for young chefs to explore new things as long as they’re offering something really, really fresh, healthy, delicious, and have the right audience. Being creative, being inventive, being contemporary, and still maintaining the basic foundation is the way to go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your favorite dishes to cook at home?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMost chefs, even if they love to cook at home, they normally cook the simplest. I stock up my restaurant with all the seasoning and basic ingredients. I always have a lot of leafy vegetables. This is my basic diet. I eat a vegetable-based diet. I haven’t gained a pound in 30 years. I’m not a vegetarian but I read a lot of articles about how healthy a vegetable-based diet is. And using meat as a condiment and as flavoring agent rather than eat a lot of meat. We are a nation of overeating. The key is to eat properly, have the right diet, and exercise. I work with AARP as an ambassador with Gary Locke and we promote an active lifestyle, healthy lifestyle, and to socialize.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of people in America when they get older, they stay put at home and watch television. I encourage them to get up, and move around and say hello to your neighbor. Cooking something at home and share with your neighbors. The whole idea is sharing. When you share, you have a sense of satisfaction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People always say, why don’t you retire? If I enjoy what I’m doing, why should I retire? I went to see Lionel Richie. This guy is about 70 years old. Still singing and jumping around! All these entertainers and actors and Supreme Court justices. If you feel that you’re making a contribution and enjoy what you do, why retire?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you feel like you’re doing more now?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI don’t know what happened! In my old age, I seem to be a lot busier. I used to only do things in America. Now I do things all over the world. I have more projects than I can handle in Asia. I can speak Mandarin, Cantonese, English and some Toisanese—I encourage a lot of people to be bilingual.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So for this next season, what can the audience look forward to?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI bring you the very best of the cuisine, where the cuisine came from, the history, the cultural backdrop, the heritage, and along the way, the art and craft, because that’s a part of the lifestyle. Not only you eat healthy, you cook healthy, but we’re living; it’s a living world. You gotta enjoy life. So basically, I’m happy to be where I am. I don’t think I’ll ever dream or contemplate retirement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Buggin' Out at the 2017 SF DocFest",
"title": "Buggin' Out at the 2017 SF DocFest",
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"content": "\u003cp>I don’t generally eat insects, except on the rare occasion when that green worm that lives in the arugula makes its way from the garden to my salad. And then, it is that squishy, uncomfortable mouth feeling that causes shudders and elicits laughter (and closer inspection of their own greens) from friends around the dinner table. Accidental entomophagy — the eating of insects — aside, I wonder why such an easy and abundant source of protein remains stubbornly taboo on the western plate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A 2013 United Nations report, \u003ca href=\"http://www.fao.org/docrep/018/i3253e/i3253e.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">\"Edible Insects: Future Prospects for Food and Feed Security,\"\u003c/a> notes that insects are part of the traditional diet for nearly 2 billion people who utilize close to 2000 species as food. The subject of entomophagy has been popping up with greater frequency over the past decade in the U.S. (Well, at least in the Bay Area. I have recently learned not to extrapolate local experience for national reality.) We encounter youngsters daring us to try a “new” delicacy at street fairs or on sunny days in the park. Hmmm, crunchy and a little nutty…\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117789\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"720\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117789\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio.jpeg 1280w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio-160x90.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio-800x450.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio-768x432.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio-1020x574.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio-1180x664.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio-960x540.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio-240x135.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio-375x211.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio-520x293.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1280px) 100vw, 1280px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Big Cricket Farm crickets on a Susie's Dog in Youngstown, OH\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Coinciding with the rise of gluten-free cooking, more packaged products (protein bars, pasta) are being produced with cricket flour. Moving away from the fringe and toward the culinary mainstream more traditional recipes (from Mexico, Thailand, Botswana and beyond) are being passed around for adventurous eaters to try — usually deep-fried — beetles, ants and crickets, among a host of other insects. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This persistent chirp will get louder when the SF DocFest (May 31 - June 15, 2017) kicks off its 16th anniversary at the Roxie, Vogue and New Mission theaters. The festival opens with the world premiere of Corbett Redford’s \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/arts/2017/05/16/the-definitive-documentary-on-east-bay-punk-is-coming-pit-warning/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Turn It Around: The Story of East Bay Punk\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, and features films that document huge swaths of real life, from art to activism to the environment and beyond. The festival features two food-related documentaries: \u003cem>Charged\u003c/em>, the miraculous story of chef Eduardo Garcia's recovery from electrocution and \u003cem>The Gateway Bug\u003c/em>, the reason I am contemplating eating insects (again).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Johanna B. Kelly's \u003ca href=\"http://thegatewaybug.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>The Gateway Bug\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Saturday, June 10, 9:15pm, Vogue Theater; Tuesday, June 13, 9:30pm, Roxie Theater) outlines the efforts of several (most notably young) entrepreneurs to produce and package insect protein in acceptable edible form for humans, its real subject is denial. It has been evident for decades that current farming, ranching and fishing practices that produce large amounts of greenhouse gasses, food stream waste and pollution will not be up to the task of effectively feeding a population projected at over 9 billion by mid-2050. “The conversation about re-examining our assumptions around what food is is something we had to have 45 years ago, and we didn’t. So, now we’ve got to be responsible adults and have the conversation that our parents didn’t have.” So says, Big Cricket Farm founder Kevin Bachhuber, whose story is interwoven with a cast of other millennials attempting to address the need for sustainable calorie production for the future. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/Ovbe1pyaoko\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Insects are much more efficient at producing protein than any of the other food sources currently in cultivation. Crickets, for example, require 2 kilograms of feed for every 1 kilogram of body weight. Insects utilize organic side streams, emit far fewer greenhouse gasses and less ammonia than cattle or pigs, and require less land and water. While the figures vary across insect species and depend on metamorphic stage (larva vs. adult) when consumed, insects tend to be highly nutritious with high fat, protein, fiber, vitamin and mineral content. Mealworms contain as much omega-3 and other fatty acids as fish (and substantially more than pigs or cattle).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there are challenges to the development of an at-once traditional and novel source of food. Yes, the characters in \u003cem>The Gateway Bug\u003c/em> must first overcome the \"Yuck\" factor, but beyond that lie other, more institutional challenges. Insect nutritional values must be more rigorously documented and contrasted with traditional sources alongside comparisons of the environmental impacts of farming animals versus insects. Meanwhile, clear regulatory frameworks must be produced and standardized to ensure food safety. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Gateway Bug's\u003c/em> most heartbreaking story follows the above-mentioned Kevin Bachhuber’s Big Cricket Farm in Youngstown, OH. The start-up's young entrepreneurs wager their own futures alongside the revitalizing efforts of a rust belt city, faithfully locating their business in an area where a history of lax regulatory standards once brought the municipality close to self-extinction. What happens to Big Cricket Farm is a demonstration of a generational divide that seems to only get wider with each passing year. Many of \u003cem>The Gateway Bug’s\u003c/em> characters demonstrate fortitude similar to Bachhuber’s, overcoming tests that only clarify their vision and solidify their determination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117785\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/EduardoandJenToday.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"649\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117785\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/EduardoandJenToday.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/EduardoandJenToday-160x104.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/EduardoandJenToday-800x519.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/EduardoandJenToday-768x498.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/EduardoandJenToday-960x623.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/EduardoandJenToday-240x156.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/EduardoandJenToday-375x243.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/EduardoandJenToday-520x337.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eduardo and Jen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Speaking of determination, there is probably no more personal portrait of endurance than \u003ca href=\"http://www.chargedfilm.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Charged\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Wednesday, June 7, 7:16pm and Saturday, June 10, 2:45pm, Roxie Theatre). While hiking in the Montana backcountry, chef Eduardo Garcia encountered the corpse of a bear and moved to investigate further, taking 2400 volts of electricity from an unmarked power source. Miraculously, Garcia stumbled through the wilderness, found help and was airlifted to the burn trauma ICU in Salt Lake City, UT. He was joined immediately by his ex-girlfriend, business partner and best friend, Jennifer Jane, who immediately began filming the ordeal, hoping to give Garcia something to concentrate on outside of his pain. The chef lost his hand and forearm, four ribs, part of his skull, and several patches of dead muscle mass from his legs and arm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/Cok4f84lrmE\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phillip Baribeau's documentary follows Garcia's struggle back to health over the next several years. But it is through Jane's intimate footage that we see the power of love to heal and witness Garcia’s transformation from a callow youth to a changed, super-charged man. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SF DocFest runs May 31 - June 15, 2017 at various San Francisco locations. For \u003ca href=\"http://sfindie.com/festivals/sf-docfest/\" target=\"_blank\">tickets and information\u003c/a> visit sfindie.com.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Check out The Gateway Bug at SF DocFest and find out what's keeping us from eating bugs right now. SF DocFest runs May 31 - June 15, 2017 at various San Francisco locations.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>I don’t generally eat insects, except on the rare occasion when that green worm that lives in the arugula makes its way from the garden to my salad. And then, it is that squishy, uncomfortable mouth feeling that causes shudders and elicits laughter (and closer inspection of their own greens) from friends around the dinner table. Accidental entomophagy — the eating of insects — aside, I wonder why such an easy and abundant source of protein remains stubbornly taboo on the western plate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A 2013 United Nations report, \u003ca href=\"http://www.fao.org/docrep/018/i3253e/i3253e.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">\"Edible Insects: Future Prospects for Food and Feed Security,\"\u003c/a> notes that insects are part of the traditional diet for nearly 2 billion people who utilize close to 2000 species as food. The subject of entomophagy has been popping up with greater frequency over the past decade in the U.S. (Well, at least in the Bay Area. I have recently learned not to extrapolate local experience for national reality.) We encounter youngsters daring us to try a “new” delicacy at street fairs or on sunny days in the park. Hmmm, crunchy and a little nutty…\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117789\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"720\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117789\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio.jpeg 1280w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio-160x90.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio-800x450.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio-768x432.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio-1020x574.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio-1180x664.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio-960x540.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio-240x135.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio-375x211.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/zZl10MUS3CzL35HTj6qH_Crickets-on-Hot-Dog-at-Susies-Dogs-in-Youngstown-Ohio-520x293.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1280px) 100vw, 1280px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Big Cricket Farm crickets on a Susie's Dog in Youngstown, OH\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Coinciding with the rise of gluten-free cooking, more packaged products (protein bars, pasta) are being produced with cricket flour. Moving away from the fringe and toward the culinary mainstream more traditional recipes (from Mexico, Thailand, Botswana and beyond) are being passed around for adventurous eaters to try — usually deep-fried — beetles, ants and crickets, among a host of other insects. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This persistent chirp will get louder when the SF DocFest (May 31 - June 15, 2017) kicks off its 16th anniversary at the Roxie, Vogue and New Mission theaters. The festival opens with the world premiere of Corbett Redford’s \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/arts/2017/05/16/the-definitive-documentary-on-east-bay-punk-is-coming-pit-warning/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Turn It Around: The Story of East Bay Punk\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, and features films that document huge swaths of real life, from art to activism to the environment and beyond. The festival features two food-related documentaries: \u003cem>Charged\u003c/em>, the miraculous story of chef Eduardo Garcia's recovery from electrocution and \u003cem>The Gateway Bug\u003c/em>, the reason I am contemplating eating insects (again).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Johanna B. Kelly's \u003ca href=\"http://thegatewaybug.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>The Gateway Bug\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Saturday, June 10, 9:15pm, Vogue Theater; Tuesday, June 13, 9:30pm, Roxie Theater) outlines the efforts of several (most notably young) entrepreneurs to produce and package insect protein in acceptable edible form for humans, its real subject is denial. It has been evident for decades that current farming, ranching and fishing practices that produce large amounts of greenhouse gasses, food stream waste and pollution will not be up to the task of effectively feeding a population projected at over 9 billion by mid-2050. “The conversation about re-examining our assumptions around what food is is something we had to have 45 years ago, and we didn’t. So, now we’ve got to be responsible adults and have the conversation that our parents didn’t have.” So says, Big Cricket Farm founder Kevin Bachhuber, whose story is interwoven with a cast of other millennials attempting to address the need for sustainable calorie production for the future. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/Ovbe1pyaoko'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/Ovbe1pyaoko'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Insects are much more efficient at producing protein than any of the other food sources currently in cultivation. Crickets, for example, require 2 kilograms of feed for every 1 kilogram of body weight. Insects utilize organic side streams, emit far fewer greenhouse gasses and less ammonia than cattle or pigs, and require less land and water. While the figures vary across insect species and depend on metamorphic stage (larva vs. adult) when consumed, insects tend to be highly nutritious with high fat, protein, fiber, vitamin and mineral content. Mealworms contain as much omega-3 and other fatty acids as fish (and substantially more than pigs or cattle).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there are challenges to the development of an at-once traditional and novel source of food. Yes, the characters in \u003cem>The Gateway Bug\u003c/em> must first overcome the \"Yuck\" factor, but beyond that lie other, more institutional challenges. Insect nutritional values must be more rigorously documented and contrasted with traditional sources alongside comparisons of the environmental impacts of farming animals versus insects. Meanwhile, clear regulatory frameworks must be produced and standardized to ensure food safety. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Gateway Bug's\u003c/em> most heartbreaking story follows the above-mentioned Kevin Bachhuber’s Big Cricket Farm in Youngstown, OH. The start-up's young entrepreneurs wager their own futures alongside the revitalizing efforts of a rust belt city, faithfully locating their business in an area where a history of lax regulatory standards once brought the municipality close to self-extinction. What happens to Big Cricket Farm is a demonstration of a generational divide that seems to only get wider with each passing year. Many of \u003cem>The Gateway Bug’s\u003c/em> characters demonstrate fortitude similar to Bachhuber’s, overcoming tests that only clarify their vision and solidify their determination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117785\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/EduardoandJenToday.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"649\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117785\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/EduardoandJenToday.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/EduardoandJenToday-160x104.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/EduardoandJenToday-800x519.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/EduardoandJenToday-768x498.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/EduardoandJenToday-960x623.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/EduardoandJenToday-240x156.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/EduardoandJenToday-375x243.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/EduardoandJenToday-520x337.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eduardo and Jen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Speaking of determination, there is probably no more personal portrait of endurance than \u003ca href=\"http://www.chargedfilm.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Charged\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Wednesday, June 7, 7:16pm and Saturday, June 10, 2:45pm, Roxie Theatre). While hiking in the Montana backcountry, chef Eduardo Garcia encountered the corpse of a bear and moved to investigate further, taking 2400 volts of electricity from an unmarked power source. Miraculously, Garcia stumbled through the wilderness, found help and was airlifted to the burn trauma ICU in Salt Lake City, UT. He was joined immediately by his ex-girlfriend, business partner and best friend, Jennifer Jane, who immediately began filming the ordeal, hoping to give Garcia something to concentrate on outside of his pain. The chef lost his hand and forearm, four ribs, part of his skull, and several patches of dead muscle mass from his legs and arm. \u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/Cok4f84lrmE'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/Cok4f84lrmE'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Phillip Baribeau's documentary follows Garcia's struggle back to health over the next several years. But it is through Jane's intimate footage that we see the power of love to heal and witness Garcia’s transformation from a callow youth to a changed, super-charged man. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SF DocFest runs May 31 - June 15, 2017 at various San Francisco locations. For \u003ca href=\"http://sfindie.com/festivals/sf-docfest/\" target=\"_blank\">tickets and information\u003c/a> visit sfindie.com.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "American Masters Chefs Flight Presents 'James Beard: America's First Foodie'",
"title": "American Masters Chefs Flight Presents 'James Beard: America's First Foodie'",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Though most of us are unfamiliar with the man behind the brand, we understand the name James Beard as synonymous with excellence in all things culinary. An \u003ca href=\"https://www.jamesbeard.org/awards\" target=\"_blank\">annual event named after him\u003c/a> has been honoring America's best chefs, restaurants and food-related media since 1990. The new film \u003cem>James Beard: America's First Foodie\u003c/em> chronicles the life of the man Julia Child referred to as \"the quintessential American cook,\" kicking off a \"Chefs Flight\" of four documentaries profiling Beard, Child, Alice Waters and Jacques Pépin for \u003cem>American Masters\u003c/em>' 31st season Friday, May 19 at 9:00pm on \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/tv/programs/index.jsp?pgmid=24298\" target=\"_blank\">KQED 9\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/okjaNGs6ViE\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>James Beard was born in Portland, Oregon at the dawn of the 20th century to a mother, Elizabeth, who owned a small hotel and was something of a local sensation, both for her cooking and for her liberated lifestyle. The early education she provided in buying and preparing fresh, local foods in season would become the guiding principle for the food movement her son later catalyzed. By his own account, the young Beard was as unrestrained by convention as his libertine mother, understanding at an early age that he was homosexual. He was expelled from Reed College, where he studied acting, for engaging in (then-illegal) same-sex activity. At 19, Beard headed to Europe to study opera, but ended up exercising his large appetite in the bistros of Paris, whose practices he taught to others when he returned to Oregon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beard moved to New York in 1937, surviving lean times by cooking for friends in exchange for his supper. From these gatherings came his first success. He and William Rhode (later the editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.gourmet.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> magazine\u003c/a>) started a catering business called Hors D'Oeuvre, Inc, which provided the recipes for his first cookbook, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Doeuvre-Canapes-Library-American-Cooking/dp/076240664X\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Hors d'oeuvre and Canapes\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, published in 1940. He followed that success with \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Cook-outdoors-James-Beard/dp/B0007E2IPO/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1493846521&sr=1-1&keywords=cook+it+outdoors+james+beard\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Cook It Outdoors\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \"believed to be the first serious book on outdoor cooking,\" according to his \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/1985/01/24/nyregion/james-beard-authority-on-food-dies.html\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> obituary\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117055\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-1020x1299.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"815\" class=\"size-large wp-image-117055\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-1020x1299.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-160x204.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-800x1019.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-768x978.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-1180x1503.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-960x1223.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-240x306.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-375x478.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-520x662.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef James Beard at Reed College \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Reed College)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 1946, Beard hosted \u003cem>I Love to Eat\u003c/em> for two seasons on NBC, introducing cooking to TV. He founded The James Beard Cooking School in 1955, teaching people around the country how to cook for the next thirty years. The school eventually settled in Seaside, Oregon, where he taught each summer using the same fresh ingredients his mother prepared in his youth, and in the kitchen of his Greenwich Village brownstone in Manhattan, which also became a popular hangout for the rich and famous. Beard's good friend Julia Child lobbied for the preservation of his Manhattan home shortly after he died in 1985 and, through the efforts of Peter Krump, a former student, and a cadre of well-connected friends, the James Beard Foundation was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wnet/americanmasters/james-beard-americas-first-foodie-film/8432/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>America's First Foodie\u003c/em>\u003c/a> traces Beard's influence through the many chefs that surrounded him and came after, including Julia Child, Alice Waters, Jeremiah Tower and \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/04/12/jacques-ppin-the-art-of-craft-reveals-how-a-french-chef-became-an-american-master/\" target=\"_blank\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a>, but what remains a mystery is the spirit that animated so many to come together to preserve his legacy. Several close friends affirm Beard's charms, but the man himself is unfortunately not on hand to glamour the viewer. How does one capture the \"life of the party\" when the party has been over for decades?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117056\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--1020x1169.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"733\" class=\"size-large wp-image-117056\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--1020x1169.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--160x183.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--800x917.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--768x880.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--1180x1353.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--960x1101.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--240x275.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--375x430.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--520x596.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chefs Julia Child, James Beard and Edna Lewis \u003ccite>(Dan Wynn/Courtesy of the Wynn family and the James Beard Foundation)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are testimonials to Beard's innovation, intelligence and wit. We hear that he was a master raconteur, loved a juicy piece of gossip, and was something of a scoundrel, skipping out on countless restaurant checks and flashing some of his guests and neighbors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beard scandalized his peers by endorsing everything from Planters Peanuts to Adolph's Meat Tenderizer to raise money for his cooking school, a move he later regretted, referring to himself as a \"gastronomic whore.\" We see a few saucy quotes from his books and learn of his participation in the design of The Four Seasons, an influential New York eatery that combined Beard's twin loves of theater and food. Interesting tidbit: the restaurant was among the first to change its menu seasonally, hence the name. Nevertheless, there are some awkward moments regarding Beard's personal life that darken the otherwise rosy portrait of the man who helped launch the farm to table movement, not the least of which is the low opinion many of his close friends held of his (apparently) life-long companion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film is a bit like a soufflé that fails to rise. All the right ingredients are present and seemingly in the correct proportions: celebrity chef testimonials, a few Beard recipes prepared by Jacques Pépin and Naomi Pomery, archival images of Beard's youth and early education, early TV appearances by the man himself, and glitzy footage of James Beard Awards bestowed. But something is missing; perhaps it is just the impossibility of knowing the true power of a celebrity's charm without the man present to demonstrate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117057\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-800x963.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"963\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-117057\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-800x963.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-160x193.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-768x924.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-1020x1227.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-1180x1420.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-960x1155.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-240x289.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-375x451.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-520x626.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef James Beard \u003ccite>(Dan Wynn/Courtesy of the Wynn family and the James Beard Foundation)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is no denying Beard's outsized personality and seemingly unquenchable lust for life. We learn how his innovations continue to proliferate within the food community today, though the film is unable to effectively convey the ineffable quality that made James Beard so beloved among his peers, inspiring a group of dedicated influencers to create a monument to his memory that became \"the Academy Awards of the food world.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The man whose face adorns the ultimate culinary seal of approval loved people, according to Julia Child, \"loved his work, loved gossip, loved to eat, [and] loved a good time.\" Seems like those are the very qualities necessary -- other than the food itself -- for a good meal, and the ones that cannot be prescribed in a cookbook. And maybe that's the secret to James Beard, he contained that extra something special that made a good dinner party great. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "American Masters kicks off a \"Chefs Flight\" of four food documentaries with a new film about James Beard. The show airs on KQED 9 Friday, May 19 at 9:00pm. ",
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"description": "American Masters kicks off a "Chefs Flight" of four food documentaries with a new film about James Beard. The show airs on KQED 9 Friday, May 19 at 9:00pm. ",
"title": "American Masters Chefs Flight Presents 'James Beard: America's First Foodie' | KQED",
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"headline": "American Masters Chefs Flight Presents 'James Beard: America's First Foodie'",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Though most of us are unfamiliar with the man behind the brand, we understand the name James Beard as synonymous with excellence in all things culinary. An \u003ca href=\"https://www.jamesbeard.org/awards\" target=\"_blank\">annual event named after him\u003c/a> has been honoring America's best chefs, restaurants and food-related media since 1990. The new film \u003cem>James Beard: America's First Foodie\u003c/em> chronicles the life of the man Julia Child referred to as \"the quintessential American cook,\" kicking off a \"Chefs Flight\" of four documentaries profiling Beard, Child, Alice Waters and Jacques Pépin for \u003cem>American Masters\u003c/em>' 31st season Friday, May 19 at 9:00pm on \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/tv/programs/index.jsp?pgmid=24298\" target=\"_blank\">KQED 9\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/okjaNGs6ViE'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/okjaNGs6ViE'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>James Beard was born in Portland, Oregon at the dawn of the 20th century to a mother, Elizabeth, who owned a small hotel and was something of a local sensation, both for her cooking and for her liberated lifestyle. The early education she provided in buying and preparing fresh, local foods in season would become the guiding principle for the food movement her son later catalyzed. By his own account, the young Beard was as unrestrained by convention as his libertine mother, understanding at an early age that he was homosexual. He was expelled from Reed College, where he studied acting, for engaging in (then-illegal) same-sex activity. At 19, Beard headed to Europe to study opera, but ended up exercising his large appetite in the bistros of Paris, whose practices he taught to others when he returned to Oregon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beard moved to New York in 1937, surviving lean times by cooking for friends in exchange for his supper. From these gatherings came his first success. He and William Rhode (later the editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.gourmet.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> magazine\u003c/a>) started a catering business called Hors D'Oeuvre, Inc, which provided the recipes for his first cookbook, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Doeuvre-Canapes-Library-American-Cooking/dp/076240664X\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Hors d'oeuvre and Canapes\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, published in 1940. He followed that success with \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Cook-outdoors-James-Beard/dp/B0007E2IPO/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1493846521&sr=1-1&keywords=cook+it+outdoors+james+beard\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Cook It Outdoors\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \"believed to be the first serious book on outdoor cooking,\" according to his \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/1985/01/24/nyregion/james-beard-authority-on-food-dies.html\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> obituary\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117055\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-1020x1299.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"815\" class=\"size-large wp-image-117055\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-1020x1299.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-160x204.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-800x1019.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-768x978.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-1180x1503.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-960x1223.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-240x306.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-375x478.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/BeardJames-on-the-radio-at-reed-520x662.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef James Beard at Reed College \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Reed College)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 1946, Beard hosted \u003cem>I Love to Eat\u003c/em> for two seasons on NBC, introducing cooking to TV. He founded The James Beard Cooking School in 1955, teaching people around the country how to cook for the next thirty years. The school eventually settled in Seaside, Oregon, where he taught each summer using the same fresh ingredients his mother prepared in his youth, and in the kitchen of his Greenwich Village brownstone in Manhattan, which also became a popular hangout for the rich and famous. Beard's good friend Julia Child lobbied for the preservation of his Manhattan home shortly after he died in 1985 and, through the efforts of Peter Krump, a former student, and a cadre of well-connected friends, the James Beard Foundation was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wnet/americanmasters/james-beard-americas-first-foodie-film/8432/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>America's First Foodie\u003c/em>\u003c/a> traces Beard's influence through the many chefs that surrounded him and came after, including Julia Child, Alice Waters, Jeremiah Tower and \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/04/12/jacques-ppin-the-art-of-craft-reveals-how-a-french-chef-became-an-american-master/\" target=\"_blank\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a>, but what remains a mystery is the spirit that animated so many to come together to preserve his legacy. Several close friends affirm Beard's charms, but the man himself is unfortunately not on hand to glamour the viewer. How does one capture the \"life of the party\" when the party has been over for decades?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117056\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--1020x1169.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"733\" class=\"size-large wp-image-117056\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--1020x1169.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--160x183.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--800x917.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--768x880.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--1180x1353.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--960x1101.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--240x275.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--375x430.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/James-Beard-Julia-Child-Edna-Lewis-photo-Dan-Wynn--520x596.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chefs Julia Child, James Beard and Edna Lewis \u003ccite>(Dan Wynn/Courtesy of the Wynn family and the James Beard Foundation)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are testimonials to Beard's innovation, intelligence and wit. We hear that he was a master raconteur, loved a juicy piece of gossip, and was something of a scoundrel, skipping out on countless restaurant checks and flashing some of his guests and neighbors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beard scandalized his peers by endorsing everything from Planters Peanuts to Adolph's Meat Tenderizer to raise money for his cooking school, a move he later regretted, referring to himself as a \"gastronomic whore.\" We see a few saucy quotes from his books and learn of his participation in the design of The Four Seasons, an influential New York eatery that combined Beard's twin loves of theater and food. Interesting tidbit: the restaurant was among the first to change its menu seasonally, hence the name. Nevertheless, there are some awkward moments regarding Beard's personal life that darken the otherwise rosy portrait of the man who helped launch the farm to table movement, not the least of which is the low opinion many of his close friends held of his (apparently) life-long companion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film is a bit like a soufflé that fails to rise. All the right ingredients are present and seemingly in the correct proportions: celebrity chef testimonials, a few Beard recipes prepared by Jacques Pépin and Naomi Pomery, archival images of Beard's youth and early education, early TV appearances by the man himself, and glitzy footage of James Beard Awards bestowed. But something is missing; perhaps it is just the impossibility of knowing the true power of a celebrity's charm without the man present to demonstrate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117057\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-800x963.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"963\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-117057\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-800x963.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-160x193.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-768x924.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-1020x1227.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-1180x1420.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-960x1155.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-240x289.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-375x451.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/jb-with-mustache-young056-520x626.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef James Beard \u003ccite>(Dan Wynn/Courtesy of the Wynn family and the James Beard Foundation)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is no denying Beard's outsized personality and seemingly unquenchable lust for life. We learn how his innovations continue to proliferate within the food community today, though the film is unable to effectively convey the ineffable quality that made James Beard so beloved among his peers, inspiring a group of dedicated influencers to create a monument to his memory that became \"the Academy Awards of the food world.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The man whose face adorns the ultimate culinary seal of approval loved people, according to Julia Child, \"loved his work, loved gossip, loved to eat, [and] loved a good time.\" Seems like those are the very qualities necessary -- other than the food itself -- for a good meal, and the ones that cannot be prescribed in a cookbook. And maybe that's the secret to James Beard, he contained that extra something special that made a good dinner party great. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "A Watergate Villain Walks Into A Berkeley Restaurant. What Could Go Wrong?",
"title": "A Watergate Villain Walks Into A Berkeley Restaurant. What Could Go Wrong?",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Editor's note: This post is about chefs and they can be quite coarse when they talk. Don't be surprised by a little foul language.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In these acrimonious times, many restaurants are treading the fine line between hospitality and politics. Anxiety-inducing though it might be, restaurants have found themselves in this awkward position before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just ask Jeremiah Tower, one of America's most influential chefs, who faced a similarly sticky situation four decades ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1974, when Tower was head chef at Alice Waters' Berkeley restaurant, Chez Panisse, in walked H.R. Haldeman, Richard Nixon's former chief of staff and a key player in the Watergate cover-up. Today, Haldeman's name might not ring too many bells, but at the time, the man known as \"Nixon's son of a bitch\" was nationally notorious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Chez Panisse staff – very Berkeley and self-righteous – refused to serve him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116981\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Jeremiah in the kitchen at Chez Panisse, the landmark restaurant where, alongside Alice Waters, he helped shape modern American cuisine. When HR Haldeman, President Richard Nixon's former chief of staff and a key player in the Watergate cover-up, walked into the very Berkeley restaurant back in the '70s, a colorful scene ensued.\" width=\"1500\" height=\"853\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116981\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-160x91.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-800x455.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-768x437.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-1020x580.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-1180x671.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-960x546.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-240x136.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-375x213.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-520x296.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jeremiah in the kitchen at Chez Panisse, the landmark restaurant where, alongside Alice Waters, he helped shape modern American cuisine. When HR Haldeman, President Richard Nixon's former chief of staff and a key player in the Watergate cover-up, walked into the very Berkeley restaurant back in the '70s, a colorful scene ensued. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of The Orchard)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It was a classic '70s moment. The country's sleaziest political scandal intersecting with a counterculture restaurant that would become the founding church of modern American cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What happened next?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order to truly savor the Haldeman story, one must first conjure Tower's exuberant personality. His name probably rings fewer bells today than Haldeman's, but in his prime, first at Chez Panisse and then at his swanky San Francisco restaurant Stars, Tower reportedly rivaled Meryl Streep for column inches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After ducking the spotlight for nearly two decades by hiding out in Mexico, Tower is currently basking in its amber glow. His elegant and acerbic 2003 memoir has been reissued as \u003cem>Start the Fire\u003c/em>: \u003cem>How I Began a Food Revolution in America – \u003c/em>the superb bibliography alone makes it worth the price, and arouses a deep admiration for this erudite if arrogant epicurean. But more significant is the launch of \u003cem>Jeremiah Tower:\u003c/em> \u003cem>The Last Magnificent\u003c/em>, a documentary on his crash-and-burn career. Produced by Anthony Bourdain, who feels that Tower has been denied his due in the American culinary pantheon, the film is well-intentioned but marred by an arch lyricism and interminable footage of Tower wandering among the Mayan ruins like an ageing hermit. Bourdain, ever ready with a vulgar bon mot, delights in calling the handsome and gay Tower \"the first f***able American chef.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tower was shaped by a wealthy and lonely childhood. He went to an English boarding school, where he learned about bad food and good manners, and later studied architecture at Harvard during the turbulent Vietnam era. Fleetingly moved to revolution, he filled a Dom Pérignon bottle with gasoline, stuffed it with an old Hermès scarf, carried it in a Tiffany bag to campus, and flung it ineptly against a wall. Posturing over, he fled back to his stove. Ever since he fixed himself a nasturtium sandwich as a solitary 5-year-old, he has spent his whole life as an apostle of good food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116982\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Jeremiah Tower with Julia Child at her birthday party in the early 1980s\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1048\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116982\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-800x559.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-768x537.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-1020x713.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-1180x824.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-960x671.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-240x168.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-375x262.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-520x363.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jeremiah Tower with Julia Child at her birthday party in the early 1980s \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jeremiah Tower)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 1973, Tower joined Chez Panisse as head chef. Fortified by heroic amounts of cocaine, champagne, oysters and the soaring operas of Verdi and Puccini, he, along with the \"diminutive, bandannaed\" Alice Waters, unleashed the California cuisine food revolution. It celebrated fresh, local ingredients classically prepared, with Tower providing the sensuous loft to Waters' mesclun asceticism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One fateful summer evening in 1974, Watergate collided with Chez Panisse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-116983\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85-375x563.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/a>The man who recalls it vividly is Jerry Budrick, then a partner at Panisse. \"Haldeman came in with a large party, about six or eight, including his daughter,\" says Budrick, on the phone from his home in California. \"I was waiting tables that day and I didn't recognize him, but the sous chef, Willy Bishop, did. Willy was a Beatnik who was known for erotic art. He got very upset. I remember him saying, 'There's a presence of evil in the dining room.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, Tower, closeted in his tiny, opera-blasted kitchen, was unaware of \"the waitstaff's powwows about the politically undesirable 'sh**head' in the dining room.\" Until a waiter came up and announced, \"I am not serving that prick!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I recoiled in shock,\" writes Tower. \"It would take something very rare indeed for a waiter to talk like that to a chef.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haldeman was that \"very rare\" something. Socially, the tanned, cultured and patrician Californian was a perfect fit at Panisse. Politically, he was a pariah. But he had someone in his corner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tower turned on the waiter. \"He's paying, isn't he? Take the food out \u003cem>now\u003c/em>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The waiter refused. As did the \"mutinous staff\" who had Waters' backing. The food was getting cold, but, writes Tower, \"I was adamant that the man would be served and served well. As somewhat of an outcast myself, I sympathized. Throw Molotov cocktails as a political gesture I did, but intentionally serving bad food was not in my repertoire.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, Jerry Budrick, whom Tower remembers warmly as \"a steady presence,\" offered to take the dishes to the Haldeman table. Tower noticed the phone lines blinking – \"most of the customers and half the staff were trying to call out — to reporters or for reinforcements, I was not sure.\" Regardless, he was getting on with his cooking when he heard his bearded beatnik sous chef snarl, \"motherf***me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116979\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2951px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd.jpg\" alt='Jeremiah Tower grills lunch for 100 food journalists on the lawn of the Astor mansion in Newport Beach, R.I., in 1983. Tower wowed the East Coasters with his \"new California\" or new American cooking.' width=\"2951\" height=\"2124\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116979\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd.jpg 2951w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-160x115.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-800x576.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-768x553.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-1020x734.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-1180x849.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-960x691.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-240x173.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-375x270.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-520x374.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2951px) 100vw, 2951px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jeremiah Tower \u003ca href=\"http://www.csmonitor.com/1983/0518/051807.html\">grills lunch\u003c/a> for 100 food journalists on the lawn of the Astor mansion in Newport Beach, R.I., in 1983. Tower wowed the East Coasters with his \"new California\" or new American cooking. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jeremiah Tower)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tower turned around to see \"Haldeman advancing on me with a smile and an outstretched hand.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He describes what transpired:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\u003cem>\"The best about English public school training is that, when all else fails, your manners take over. Mine did. So I watched my hand as it rose slowly to clasp Haldeman's.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\"Thank you,\" he said. And for not shaming him in front of his daughter. \"Thank you for that.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>He was nice. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\"This is the perfect time to write about the Haldeman story,\" says Tower on the phone. \"What chefs should know is, it's not about you. It's about the customer. You don't get to judge who can partake of that hospitality. If customers are being obnoxious you can ask them to leave. But not because of who they are or what their politics is. Everyone has the same right to live in this country. If they're just sitting there and enjoying their dinner, hallelujah.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If he had a restaurant today, would someone whose politics he disagreed with, say President Trump's chief strategist, Steve Bannon, be welcome? \"Of course,\" says Tower. \"I can't stand the idiot, but that's not the point. He probably can't stand me, either, probably thinks I'm a dangerous liberal. He can refuse to come to the restaurant. But once he's there, and being nice and normal, hallelujah.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Haldeman dinner is part of Chez Panisse mythology. Competing versions abound, including the pernicious one that Haldeman was not charged because \"this restaurant does not accept tainted money.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Rubbish,\" says Budrick. \"It was my job to wait his table, and I did. But then, Willy and Jeremiah, whom I love, but who is a royalist and loves the grand gesture, came up with the scheme that we wouldn't take his money. So, very politely I conveyed to Haldeman that the restaurant wasn't going to charge him. There was no talk of tainted money. We treated everyone politely. Edward Teller, the father of the hydrogen bomb, lived in Berkeley and was the object of local derision and hatred – but he came often to Chez Panisse and was welcome. That tainted-money story was written by Herb Caen\" – a Pulitzer Prize-winner who wrote a much-loved gossip column for the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Somewhat blessedly,\" writes Tower about the fallout of the Haldeman visit, \"Alice and the staff did not speak to me for a week.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A whole week?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Okay, maybe it was two days,\" he laughs. \"But, you know, a week has a bit of a ring to it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a> \u003cem>is a journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Editor's note: This post is about chefs and they can be quite coarse when they talk. Don't be surprised by a little foul language.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In these acrimonious times, many restaurants are treading the fine line between hospitality and politics. Anxiety-inducing though it might be, restaurants have found themselves in this awkward position before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just ask Jeremiah Tower, one of America's most influential chefs, who faced a similarly sticky situation four decades ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1974, when Tower was head chef at Alice Waters' Berkeley restaurant, Chez Panisse, in walked H.R. Haldeman, Richard Nixon's former chief of staff and a key player in the Watergate cover-up. Today, Haldeman's name might not ring too many bells, but at the time, the man known as \"Nixon's son of a bitch\" was nationally notorious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Chez Panisse staff – very Berkeley and self-righteous – refused to serve him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116981\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Jeremiah in the kitchen at Chez Panisse, the landmark restaurant where, alongside Alice Waters, he helped shape modern American cuisine. When HR Haldeman, President Richard Nixon's former chief of staff and a key player in the Watergate cover-up, walked into the very Berkeley restaurant back in the '70s, a colorful scene ensued.\" width=\"1500\" height=\"853\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116981\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-160x91.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-800x455.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-768x437.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-1020x580.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-1180x671.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-960x546.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-240x136.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-375x213.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremiah-in-the-chez-panisse-kitchen-1974_custom-4e44684906e36134e339a915759f267f5ef45ab4-s1500-c85-520x296.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jeremiah in the kitchen at Chez Panisse, the landmark restaurant where, alongside Alice Waters, he helped shape modern American cuisine. When HR Haldeman, President Richard Nixon's former chief of staff and a key player in the Watergate cover-up, walked into the very Berkeley restaurant back in the '70s, a colorful scene ensued. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of The Orchard)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It was a classic '70s moment. The country's sleaziest political scandal intersecting with a counterculture restaurant that would become the founding church of modern American cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What happened next?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order to truly savor the Haldeman story, one must first conjure Tower's exuberant personality. His name probably rings fewer bells today than Haldeman's, but in his prime, first at Chez Panisse and then at his swanky San Francisco restaurant Stars, Tower reportedly rivaled Meryl Streep for column inches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After ducking the spotlight for nearly two decades by hiding out in Mexico, Tower is currently basking in its amber glow. His elegant and acerbic 2003 memoir has been reissued as \u003cem>Start the Fire\u003c/em>: \u003cem>How I Began a Food Revolution in America – \u003c/em>the superb bibliography alone makes it worth the price, and arouses a deep admiration for this erudite if arrogant epicurean. But more significant is the launch of \u003cem>Jeremiah Tower:\u003c/em> \u003cem>The Last Magnificent\u003c/em>, a documentary on his crash-and-burn career. Produced by Anthony Bourdain, who feels that Tower has been denied his due in the American culinary pantheon, the film is well-intentioned but marred by an arch lyricism and interminable footage of Tower wandering among the Mayan ruins like an ageing hermit. Bourdain, ever ready with a vulgar bon mot, delights in calling the handsome and gay Tower \"the first f***able American chef.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tower was shaped by a wealthy and lonely childhood. He went to an English boarding school, where he learned about bad food and good manners, and later studied architecture at Harvard during the turbulent Vietnam era. Fleetingly moved to revolution, he filled a Dom Pérignon bottle with gasoline, stuffed it with an old Hermès scarf, carried it in a Tiffany bag to campus, and flung it ineptly against a wall. Posturing over, he fled back to his stove. Ever since he fixed himself a nasturtium sandwich as a solitary 5-year-old, he has spent his whole life as an apostle of good food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116982\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Jeremiah Tower with Julia Child at her birthday party in the early 1980s\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1048\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116982\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-800x559.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-768x537.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-1020x713.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-1180x824.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-960x671.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-240x168.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-375x262.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-with-julia-child-at-her-birthday-celebration-1982_courtesy-of-jt_custom-675ef0e5f2939f165e42573821dd69b4104774e9-s1500-c85-520x363.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jeremiah Tower with Julia Child at her birthday party in the early 1980s \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jeremiah Tower)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 1973, Tower joined Chez Panisse as head chef. Fortified by heroic amounts of cocaine, champagne, oysters and the soaring operas of Verdi and Puccini, he, along with the \"diminutive, bandannaed\" Alice Waters, unleashed the California cuisine food revolution. It celebrated fresh, local ingredients classically prepared, with Tower providing the sensuous loft to Waters' mesclun asceticism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One fateful summer evening in 1974, Watergate collided with Chez Panisse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-116983\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780062498434_custom-a597994f3ffefb979c04f0eb4779b790e1c9af8b-s600-c85-375x563.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/a>The man who recalls it vividly is Jerry Budrick, then a partner at Panisse. \"Haldeman came in with a large party, about six or eight, including his daughter,\" says Budrick, on the phone from his home in California. \"I was waiting tables that day and I didn't recognize him, but the sous chef, Willy Bishop, did. Willy was a Beatnik who was known for erotic art. He got very upset. I remember him saying, 'There's a presence of evil in the dining room.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, Tower, closeted in his tiny, opera-blasted kitchen, was unaware of \"the waitstaff's powwows about the politically undesirable 'sh**head' in the dining room.\" Until a waiter came up and announced, \"I am not serving that prick!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I recoiled in shock,\" writes Tower. \"It would take something very rare indeed for a waiter to talk like that to a chef.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haldeman was that \"very rare\" something. Socially, the tanned, cultured and patrician Californian was a perfect fit at Panisse. Politically, he was a pariah. But he had someone in his corner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tower turned on the waiter. \"He's paying, isn't he? Take the food out \u003cem>now\u003c/em>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The waiter refused. As did the \"mutinous staff\" who had Waters' backing. The food was getting cold, but, writes Tower, \"I was adamant that the man would be served and served well. As somewhat of an outcast myself, I sympathized. Throw Molotov cocktails as a political gesture I did, but intentionally serving bad food was not in my repertoire.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, Jerry Budrick, whom Tower remembers warmly as \"a steady presence,\" offered to take the dishes to the Haldeman table. Tower noticed the phone lines blinking – \"most of the customers and half the staff were trying to call out — to reporters or for reinforcements, I was not sure.\" Regardless, he was getting on with his cooking when he heard his bearded beatnik sous chef snarl, \"motherf***me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116979\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2951px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd.jpg\" alt='Jeremiah Tower grills lunch for 100 food journalists on the lawn of the Astor mansion in Newport Beach, R.I., in 1983. Tower wowed the East Coasters with his \"new California\" or new American cooking.' width=\"2951\" height=\"2124\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116979\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd.jpg 2951w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-160x115.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-800x576.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-768x553.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-1020x734.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-1180x849.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-960x691.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-240x173.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-375x270.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/the-author-cooking-lunch-for-one-hundred-food-journalists-at-the-astor-mansion-1983_-courtesy-of-jt_custom-82dae9f57740dea2ec7a15ee9982a116a4a7f7bd-520x374.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2951px) 100vw, 2951px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jeremiah Tower \u003ca href=\"http://www.csmonitor.com/1983/0518/051807.html\">grills lunch\u003c/a> for 100 food journalists on the lawn of the Astor mansion in Newport Beach, R.I., in 1983. Tower wowed the East Coasters with his \"new California\" or new American cooking. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jeremiah Tower)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tower turned around to see \"Haldeman advancing on me with a smile and an outstretched hand.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He describes what transpired:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\u003cem>\"The best about English public school training is that, when all else fails, your manners take over. Mine did. So I watched my hand as it rose slowly to clasp Haldeman's.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\"Thank you,\" he said. And for not shaming him in front of his daughter. \"Thank you for that.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>He was nice. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\"This is the perfect time to write about the Haldeman story,\" says Tower on the phone. \"What chefs should know is, it's not about you. It's about the customer. You don't get to judge who can partake of that hospitality. If customers are being obnoxious you can ask them to leave. But not because of who they are or what their politics is. Everyone has the same right to live in this country. If they're just sitting there and enjoying their dinner, hallelujah.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If he had a restaurant today, would someone whose politics he disagreed with, say President Trump's chief strategist, Steve Bannon, be welcome? \"Of course,\" says Tower. \"I can't stand the idiot, but that's not the point. He probably can't stand me, either, probably thinks I'm a dangerous liberal. He can refuse to come to the restaurant. But once he's there, and being nice and normal, hallelujah.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Haldeman dinner is part of Chez Panisse mythology. Competing versions abound, including the pernicious one that Haldeman was not charged because \"this restaurant does not accept tainted money.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Rubbish,\" says Budrick. \"It was my job to wait his table, and I did. But then, Willy and Jeremiah, whom I love, but who is a royalist and loves the grand gesture, came up with the scheme that we wouldn't take his money. So, very politely I conveyed to Haldeman that the restaurant wasn't going to charge him. There was no talk of tainted money. We treated everyone politely. Edward Teller, the father of the hydrogen bomb, lived in Berkeley and was the object of local derision and hatred – but he came often to Chez Panisse and was welcome. That tainted-money story was written by Herb Caen\" – a Pulitzer Prize-winner who wrote a much-loved gossip column for the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Somewhat blessedly,\" writes Tower about the fallout of the Haldeman visit, \"Alice and the staff did not speak to me for a week.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A whole week?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Okay, maybe it was two days,\" he laughs. \"But, you know, a week has a bit of a ring to it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a> \u003cem>is a journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "It's Not Easy Being Green: Food Activism at the 2017 SF Green Film Festival",
"title": "It's Not Easy Being Green: Food Activism at the 2017 SF Green Film Festival",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Three films at the\u003ca href=\"http://www.greenfilmfest.org/\" target=\"_blank\"> 2017 San Francisco Green Film Festival\u003c/a> (April 20-26) highlight, perhaps unintentionally, how hard it is to do the right thing. Or maybe they demonstrate how easy it is, but how often the right thing is ignored in favor of the expedient. This dilemma is familiar to anyone paying attention, vexing arguments that range across the landscape of human activity. Yes, it might be true that a particular practice is harmful in the long run, but the short-term benefits (usually jobs, economics) trump all other concerns. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I mean is best expressed in the story of Dick Goin, a man whose decades-long fight to remove two dams and return Chinook salmon to their ancestral spawning grounds in Washington's Elwha River is poetically profiled in Jennifer Galvin & Sachi Cunningham's \u003ca href=\"http://www.thememoryoffish.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>The Memory of Fish\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Saturday, April 22, 3pm, Roxie Cinema).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3.jpg\" alt=\"Dick Goin, The Memory of Fish\" width=\"1400\" height=\"788\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116825\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dick Goin, The Memory of Fish\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Goin's relationship with the river began when he was just a kid. His family suffered the ravages of the infamous Dust Bowl, sold what little they had and headed west from southwestern Iowa. They arrived on the banks of the Elwha \"poor as rats,\" surviving starvation because of the river's rich natural resources, most particularly the hefty salmon that thrived there. Goin spent his whole life on the river, which was dammed early in the 20th century to produce hydro-electricity, fueling mills that produced everything from tires to canned fish. At 18, Goin went to work at Rayonier Incorporated, servicing the machines powered by the dams he despised for 41 1/2 years. He recounts witnessing juvenile salmonids hit the pollution generated by Rayonier and going belly up and wonders at his inaction. \"Should I have then said, 'Hell, I won't work here anymore?'\" How would he have put food on the table for his young family? He says, \"You accept the necessities of life...\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/5GwGlEX0ktw\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The combination of the dams, which inhibited spawning, the canneries that chopped and packaged the fish and other companies that spewed pollution resulted in a huge decline of the Chinook population. Goin's own fishing records track reductions in the size and quantity of the fish. Once Goin retired, and most of the factories previously powered by the dams went out of business, he began to lobby for the restoration of the river. Of course there was resistance. No one had ever undertaken such a \u003ca href=\"http://projects.seattletimes.com/2016/elwha/\" target=\"_blank\">massive dam removal project\u003c/a>. What would happen to the river if it was returned to its former state?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This timeline brings up a troubling question. Did Goin advocate for the river's restoration when his livelihood depended on the power generated by its two dams? This is the complicated heart of the conservation question, the sticky point located at the center of enlightenment, convenience and self interest. Why is it so difficult to do the right thing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116826\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers.jpg\" alt=\"Sunburst Farm apple pickers; Evolution of Organic\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1013\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116826\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-800x579.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-768x556.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-1020x738.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-1180x854.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-960x695.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-240x174.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-375x271.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-520x376.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sunburst Farm apple pickers; Evolution of Organic\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The festival's opening night film, Mark Kitchell's \u003ca href=\"http://evolutionoforganic.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Evolution of Organic\u003c/a> (Thursday, April 20, 7:30pm, Castro Theatre) provides a partial answer. There were indeed people devoted to a principle that was a little more enlightened than it was self-interested. In reaction to the industrial farming practices of the late 1960s and early 1970s, a small band of \"hippies\" sought natural food alternatives for themselves, their families and their communities. However, making a living as an organic farmer was exceedingly difficult in an era when the term was at best obscure and at worst denigrated. This core group of true believers persisted because growing healthy food and responsibly stewarding the land was the right thing to do. They adopted farming practices and innovated food distribution operations out of necessity. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Images of this early movement are endearingly hilarious, looking how you would expect coastal Californians looked in the early 1970s. One image, the one I would have liked to use to promote this post, is of a group of naked, long-haired men and women crouched together on a patch of land, boobs and penises dangling freely, arms draped over one another as the afternoon sun kisses their honey-colored skin. One can only imagine the night ahead after a day's work digging in the dirt! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/Mh_9ojGcYoE\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film -- in four acts -- tracks the rise of the \"organic\" movement, which has come to mean so much (and sometimes so little) in today's supermarket. Inspired by Rachel Carson's \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silent_Spring\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Silent Spring\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, an influential tome documenting the detrimental effects of pesticides, and the arrival of English master gardener \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alan_Chadwick\" target=\"_blank\">Alan Chadwick\u003c/a> at the University of California, Santa Cruz, early organic farmers had to resist prevalent farming practices and rediscover a history of seemingly lost knowledge. (Funny that. A few decades of industrial farming could somehow wipe away millennia of practice. How easily we humans forget.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116827\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples.jpg\" alt=\"Evolution of Organic\" width=\"1400\" height=\"930\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116827\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-800x531.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-768x510.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-1020x678.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-1180x784.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-960x638.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-240x159.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-375x249.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-520x345.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Evolution of Organic \u003ccite>(Annie Marks)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Starting with the beginnings of the movement, when the desire for clean food meant either growing it or distributing it yourself, the film documents the rise of organic practice, illuminating an era when producers shared knowledge on the tailgates of their pick-up trucks. As with all things, organic farming grew because there was a demand. The cash register really is capitalism's ballot box. After a couple of decades in obscurity, the baby lettuce (AKA \"spring mix\") craze of the early 1990s put organic on the map. A couple well-publicized pesticide health scares later, large supermarket chains began to feel the demand. Increased value brought larger producers, many switching their commercial practices to organic. The film's final act locates the current seeds of the movement's future, perhaps even as a redress to atmospheric carbon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An interesting point that quickly rushed by was the impending retirement of the organic \"elders.\" This made me wonder about the fate of all the organic farmland this group of pioneers has cleared and converted. Is it in the process of sub-division, turning into vineyards or remote homes for California's coastal elite?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Again, the question arises: what is the right action? Is it favorably aligned with the self interests of those who struggled in obscurity for decades before finding themselves at the vanguard of a food movement that generated a great deal of health and wealth? \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116828\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala.jpg\" alt=\"Dusty Crary visits his father's grave; Rancher, Farmer, Fisherman\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1050\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116828\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dusty Crary visits his father's grave; Rancher, Farmer, Fisherman \u003ccite>(Beth AAla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If Susan Froemke and John Hoffman's Discovery Channel documentary \u003ca href=\"http://rancherfarmerfisherman.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Rancher, Farmer, Fisherman\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Wednesday, April 26, 6pm, Castro Theatre) is any indication, the answer would be ... complicated. Ultimately, the documentary's characters fight a good fight, protecting land from oil drilling, adopting till-free farming practices and creating fishing quotas to responsibly steward the delicate resources of a fishery. But what motivates these people to ultimately do the right thing? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/evg6U1mo3kg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the case of the Montana ranchers, the large tracts of property their families have inhabited for generations became threatened by proposed drilling on nearby federal lands. They fought not only to shut this activity down, but worked with conservation groups to permanently secure adjacent areas and limit the uses for their own properties for generations. Their self interest conserves the landscape for their descendants, while also protecting over a million acres from development. It's a net good, with direct benefits for a select few. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similarly, the cadre of Louisiana commercial fishermen featured in the film created fishing quotas for themselves, but only after the stocks of red snapper from which they made their living very nearly collapsed. Finally, after years of warning, they came together to cooperatively save the fishery on which their lives depended. Why did this action take so long? What is it about the human species that makes this kind of enlightened action so elusive? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I suppose there is no answer to this question, only a willingness to continue asking that is the hallmark of the San Francisco Green Film Festival. The festival runs April 20-26, 2017. For tickets and information visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.greenfilmfest.org/\" target=\"_blank\">greenfilmfest.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Three food-related films at the 2017 SF Green Film Festival highlight the challenges of conservation. The festival runs April 20-26, 2017.",
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"title": "It's Not Easy Being Green: Food Activism at the 2017 SF Green Film Festival | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Three films at the\u003ca href=\"http://www.greenfilmfest.org/\" target=\"_blank\"> 2017 San Francisco Green Film Festival\u003c/a> (April 20-26) highlight, perhaps unintentionally, how hard it is to do the right thing. Or maybe they demonstrate how easy it is, but how often the right thing is ignored in favor of the expedient. This dilemma is familiar to anyone paying attention, vexing arguments that range across the landscape of human activity. Yes, it might be true that a particular practice is harmful in the long run, but the short-term benefits (usually jobs, economics) trump all other concerns. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I mean is best expressed in the story of Dick Goin, a man whose decades-long fight to remove two dams and return Chinook salmon to their ancestral spawning grounds in Washington's Elwha River is poetically profiled in Jennifer Galvin & Sachi Cunningham's \u003ca href=\"http://www.thememoryoffish.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>The Memory of Fish\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Saturday, April 22, 3pm, Roxie Cinema).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3.jpg\" alt=\"Dick Goin, The Memory of Fish\" width=\"1400\" height=\"788\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116825\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/The-Memory-of-Fish-3-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dick Goin, The Memory of Fish\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Goin's relationship with the river began when he was just a kid. His family suffered the ravages of the infamous Dust Bowl, sold what little they had and headed west from southwestern Iowa. They arrived on the banks of the Elwha \"poor as rats,\" surviving starvation because of the river's rich natural resources, most particularly the hefty salmon that thrived there. Goin spent his whole life on the river, which was dammed early in the 20th century to produce hydro-electricity, fueling mills that produced everything from tires to canned fish. At 18, Goin went to work at Rayonier Incorporated, servicing the machines powered by the dams he despised for 41 1/2 years. He recounts witnessing juvenile salmonids hit the pollution generated by Rayonier and going belly up and wonders at his inaction. \"Should I have then said, 'Hell, I won't work here anymore?'\" How would he have put food on the table for his young family? He says, \"You accept the necessities of life...\"\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/5GwGlEX0ktw'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/5GwGlEX0ktw'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>The combination of the dams, which inhibited spawning, the canneries that chopped and packaged the fish and other companies that spewed pollution resulted in a huge decline of the Chinook population. Goin's own fishing records track reductions in the size and quantity of the fish. Once Goin retired, and most of the factories previously powered by the dams went out of business, he began to lobby for the restoration of the river. Of course there was resistance. No one had ever undertaken such a \u003ca href=\"http://projects.seattletimes.com/2016/elwha/\" target=\"_blank\">massive dam removal project\u003c/a>. What would happen to the river if it was returned to its former state?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This timeline brings up a troubling question. Did Goin advocate for the river's restoration when his livelihood depended on the power generated by its two dams? This is the complicated heart of the conservation question, the sticky point located at the center of enlightenment, convenience and self interest. Why is it so difficult to do the right thing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116826\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers.jpg\" alt=\"Sunburst Farm apple pickers; Evolution of Organic\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1013\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116826\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-800x579.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-768x556.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-1020x738.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-1180x854.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-960x695.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-240x174.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-375x271.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2257_Sunburst-Farm_Apple-pickers-520x376.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sunburst Farm apple pickers; Evolution of Organic\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The festival's opening night film, Mark Kitchell's \u003ca href=\"http://evolutionoforganic.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Evolution of Organic\u003c/a> (Thursday, April 20, 7:30pm, Castro Theatre) provides a partial answer. There were indeed people devoted to a principle that was a little more enlightened than it was self-interested. In reaction to the industrial farming practices of the late 1960s and early 1970s, a small band of \"hippies\" sought natural food alternatives for themselves, their families and their communities. However, making a living as an organic farmer was exceedingly difficult in an era when the term was at best obscure and at worst denigrated. This core group of true believers persisted because growing healthy food and responsibly stewarding the land was the right thing to do. They adopted farming practices and innovated food distribution operations out of necessity. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Images of this early movement are endearingly hilarious, looking how you would expect coastal Californians looked in the early 1970s. One image, the one I would have liked to use to promote this post, is of a group of naked, long-haired men and women crouched together on a patch of land, boobs and penises dangling freely, arms draped over one another as the afternoon sun kisses their honey-colored skin. One can only imagine the night ahead after a day's work digging in the dirt! \u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/Mh_9ojGcYoE'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/Mh_9ojGcYoE'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>The film -- in four acts -- tracks the rise of the \"organic\" movement, which has come to mean so much (and sometimes so little) in today's supermarket. Inspired by Rachel Carson's \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silent_Spring\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Silent Spring\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, an influential tome documenting the detrimental effects of pesticides, and the arrival of English master gardener \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alan_Chadwick\" target=\"_blank\">Alan Chadwick\u003c/a> at the University of California, Santa Cruz, early organic farmers had to resist prevalent farming practices and rediscover a history of seemingly lost knowledge. (Funny that. A few decades of industrial farming could somehow wipe away millennia of practice. How easily we humans forget.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116827\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples.jpg\" alt=\"Evolution of Organic\" width=\"1400\" height=\"930\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116827\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-800x531.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-768x510.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-1020x678.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-1180x784.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-960x638.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-240x159.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-375x249.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/FOT_2098_RMarks-PVF-Annie-Marks-Apples-520x345.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Evolution of Organic \u003ccite>(Annie Marks)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Starting with the beginnings of the movement, when the desire for clean food meant either growing it or distributing it yourself, the film documents the rise of organic practice, illuminating an era when producers shared knowledge on the tailgates of their pick-up trucks. As with all things, organic farming grew because there was a demand. The cash register really is capitalism's ballot box. After a couple of decades in obscurity, the baby lettuce (AKA \"spring mix\") craze of the early 1990s put organic on the map. A couple well-publicized pesticide health scares later, large supermarket chains began to feel the demand. Increased value brought larger producers, many switching their commercial practices to organic. The film's final act locates the current seeds of the movement's future, perhaps even as a redress to atmospheric carbon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An interesting point that quickly rushed by was the impending retirement of the organic \"elders.\" This made me wonder about the fate of all the organic farmland this group of pioneers has cleared and converted. Is it in the process of sub-division, turning into vineyards or remote homes for California's coastal elite?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Again, the question arises: what is the right action? Is it favorably aligned with the self interests of those who struggled in obscurity for decades before finding themselves at the vanguard of a food movement that generated a great deal of health and wealth? \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116828\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala.jpg\" alt=\"Dusty Crary visits his father's grave; Rancher, Farmer, Fisherman\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1050\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116828\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6_Rancher-Dusty-Crary-visiting-fathers-grave_Beth-Aala-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dusty Crary visits his father's grave; Rancher, Farmer, Fisherman \u003ccite>(Beth AAla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If Susan Froemke and John Hoffman's Discovery Channel documentary \u003ca href=\"http://rancherfarmerfisherman.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Rancher, Farmer, Fisherman\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Wednesday, April 26, 6pm, Castro Theatre) is any indication, the answer would be ... complicated. Ultimately, the documentary's characters fight a good fight, protecting land from oil drilling, adopting till-free farming practices and creating fishing quotas to responsibly steward the delicate resources of a fishery. But what motivates these people to ultimately do the right thing? \u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/evg6U1mo3kg'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/evg6U1mo3kg'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>In the case of the Montana ranchers, the large tracts of property their families have inhabited for generations became threatened by proposed drilling on nearby federal lands. They fought not only to shut this activity down, but worked with conservation groups to permanently secure adjacent areas and limit the uses for their own properties for generations. Their self interest conserves the landscape for their descendants, while also protecting over a million acres from development. It's a net good, with direct benefits for a select few. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similarly, the cadre of Louisiana commercial fishermen featured in the film created fishing quotas for themselves, but only after the stocks of red snapper from which they made their living very nearly collapsed. Finally, after years of warning, they came together to cooperatively save the fishery on which their lives depended. Why did this action take so long? What is it about the human species that makes this kind of enlightened action so elusive? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I suppose there is no answer to this question, only a willingness to continue asking that is the hallmark of the San Francisco Green Film Festival. The festival runs April 20-26, 2017. For tickets and information visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.greenfilmfest.org/\" target=\"_blank\">greenfilmfest.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft Reveals How a French Chef Became an ‘American Master’",
"title": "Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft Reveals How a French Chef Became an ‘American Master’",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>There are only two things wrong with Peter L. Stein's \u003cem>American Masters\u003c/em> documentary \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wnet/americanmasters/jacques-pepin-art-craft-film/8435/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, which premieres at San Francisco's Castro Theatre on Tuesday, April 25, 2017 and will premiere nationally on PBS stations Friday, May 26, at 9pm. First, it's not long enough; Pépin is such a charming character that -- especially in film digest form -- he leaves us wanting more. The film fizzes, pops and then is gone, like the delicate bubbles in a fine champagne. Second, this \"American\" master's French accent is still pretty thick, even after all these years. Though that is partially the point. In a political climate that puzzlingly discounts the contributions of immigrants, Pépin's adventure is a buoyant illustration of the catalytic grit, wit and innovation one newcomer can bring to an America still dreaming. Stein says, \"It's sometimes really nice to remember that people come to these shores, do good in the world and build something that actually changes culture.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Needle scratch. Rewind. Whenever we revisit the lives of celebrity chefs whose revolution eventually stocked our grocery store shelves with foods we now take for granted, we must first imagine the landscape BEFORE they arrived. We have to visit the U.S. supermarket with a young Jacques Pépin to discover with horror the only mushrooms on offer come in a can. The industrial practices that fed the troops in WWII have been weaponized to feed the masses and to make \"daily household drudgery\" (like cooking) a thing of the past. Everything is convenient, pre-sliced and pre-packaged. This idea is repeated in several recent documentaries, but given my own proximity to Rainbow Grocery and Whole Foods market, I still find it hard to grasp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116730\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin (left), his brother Roland, his mother Jeannette, his younger brother Bichon, and aunts and uncles in front of the family restaurant, Chez Pépin.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1347\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116730\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-800x561.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-768x539.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-1020x716.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-1180x828.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-960x674.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-240x168.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-375x263.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-520x365.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin (left), his brother Roland, his mother Jeannette, his younger brother Bichon, and aunts and uncles in front of the family restaurant, Chez Pépin. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pépin was no slouch when he arrived in the U.S. in the late 1950s. The film uses re-enactment, family photos and archival footage to cover the chef's early life. His first kitchen experience was in one of the family restaurants his mother opened after the Second World War, which the teenage Pépin parlayed into apprenticeships at some of the finest establishments in Paris. When he was drafted into the French navy, Pépin's work ethic and creativity eventually garnered him the position as personal chef to three French heads of state, including Charles de Gaulle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116731\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-1020x1403.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin as a young apprentice in front of his mother’s restaurant, Chez Pépin.\" width=\"640\" height=\"880\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116731\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-1020x1403.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-160x220.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-800x1100.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-768x1056.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-1180x1623.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-960x1320.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-240x330.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-375x516.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-520x715.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin as a young apprentice in front of his mother’s restaurant, Chez Pépin. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116729\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin (left) with his brothers Bichon and Roland, 1957.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1365\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116729\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-800x569.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-768x546.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-1020x725.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-1180x839.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-960x683.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-240x171.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-375x267.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-520x370.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin (left) with his brothers Bichon and Roland, 1957. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once his military service was over, Pépin headed to New York, landing a job at Le Pavillon, referred to in the film as the \"best restaurant in the U.S.\" at the time. This was probably where the Kennedys came to appreciate his talents, so much so that, after winning the 1960 presidential election, they asked him to serve as White House chef. Another needle scratch. Pépin turned down the job! He chose instead to become Director of Research in the test kitchen for Howard Johnson's, the largest restaurant chain in the U.S. at the time. This move is key to the current celebration of Pépin as a distinctively American master. After serving in the world's great temples of haute cuisine, he decided to learn about mass production, creating recipes for Beef Bourguignon that could be produced in 500 gallon vats and putting the French back in French Fries. A decade later, Pépin left that post to strike out on his own, opening a very popular lunch spot in mid-town Manhattan, La Potagerie, which only served soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116748\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1754px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pepin and his best friend, Jean-Claude Szurdak, in an early magazine photo shoot. \" width=\"1754\" height=\"1276\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116748\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude.jpg 1754w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-800x582.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-768x559.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-1020x742.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-1180x858.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-960x698.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-240x175.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-375x273.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-520x378.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1754px) 100vw, 1754px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pepin and his best friend, Jean-Claude Szurdak, in an early magazine photo shoot. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116750\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 611px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin and Pierre Franey at the Howard Johnsons test kitchen, 1970s.\" width=\"611\" height=\"535\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116750\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW.jpg 611w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-160x140.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-240x210.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-375x328.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-520x455.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 611px) 100vw, 611px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin and Pierre Franey at the Howard Johnsons test kitchen, 1970s. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Pierre Franey Estate)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Eventually, the necessity arose for Pépin to reinvent himself once more. He wrote a cookbook, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Technique-Illustrated-Fundamental-Techniques-Cooking/dp/067179020X/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1491927105&sr=1-2&keywords=la+technique+jacques+pepin\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>La Technique\u003c/em>\u003c/a> that taught Americans much-needed, from what he had observed, basic techniques for food preparation. He followed the success of that first book with another, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Methode-Illustrated-Fundamental-Techniques-Hardcover/dp/B011WAFZH4/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1491927237&sr=1-3&keywords=la+methode+jacques+pepin\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>La Methode\u003c/em>\u003c/a>; the two books were essentially about empowering the home cook. They were revolutionary at the time, demonstrating food basics through step-by-step photographic layouts. Pépin then hit the road, touring extensively to promote the work, which was the only option in an age before cable networks devoted exclusively to food. Exploiting his suave good looks, his natural charm and humor, not to mention that sexy accent, Pépin became the Tom Jones of cooking. Women flocked to his public appearances and swooned. This was the 1970s and the U.S. was pretty hot for all things French. Anthony Bourdain summarizes this idea with the quote that opens the film, \"Before you have sex with another human being, you should be capable of preparing them an omelet to Jacques Pépin's standards the next morning.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116744\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-800x1150.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin in his garden.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1150\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-116744\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-800x1150.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-160x230.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-768x1104.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-960x1380.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-240x345.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-375x539.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-520x748.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden.jpg 969w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin in his garden. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So of course TV came calling, most particularly KQED, which produced -- with the very same Peter L. Stein at the helm -- Pépin's first successful cooking series for public TV. While he is extremely accomplished, Pépin makes cooking look easy, without -- paradoxically -- pulling focus from the centrality of work. His amazingly expressive hands communicate volumes -- mastery, wit, joy -- with every small gesture. His emphasis on technique is about developing know-how in your hands, which is communicated through the grace of his own movements. The chef's knife is a baton; the paring knife is a pen. Pépin creates art and music with food, orchestrating the meal as a communion between friends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116747\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1408px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin teaching a cooking class in the 1970s.\" width=\"1408\" height=\"1483\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116747\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW.jpg 1408w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-160x169.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-800x843.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-768x809.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-1020x1074.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-1180x1243.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-960x1011.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-240x253.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-375x395.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-520x548.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1408px) 100vw, 1408px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin teaching a cooking class in the 1970s. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pépin remained philosophically consistent on TV. With empowerment as his central goal, he utilized each half-hour segment to prepare a dish from start to finish, revealing how cooking is essentially technique and practice. He cemented this idea with another series wherein he taught his daughter Claudine to cook on the small screen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116755\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 900px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine.jpg\" alt=\" Jacques Pépin and his daughter Claudine in his television series (L to R): Today's Gourmet, Jacques Pépin 's Kitchen: Cooking with Claudine, and Chez Pépin.\" width=\"900\" height=\"223\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116755\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-160x40.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-800x198.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-768x190.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-240x59.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-375x93.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-520x129.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin and his daughter Claudine in his television series (L to R): Today's Gourmet, Jacques Pépin 's Kitchen: Cooking with Claudine, and Chez Pépin. \u003ccite>(screenshots from Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But \u003cem>The Art of Craft\u003c/em> is more than just one man's success story. Ultimately, it communicates, with the same breezy charm as its subject, the effect one person can have on a whole culture. This is the crucial idea that seems missing from today's America. We are a stew waiting for that distinctive ingredient that makes everything pop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pépin, along with a handful of other chefs like him, changed the way Americans perceived food. At one point, Pépin, nearing his 80th birthday, contemplates a wall filled with framed pictures of close friends and people who have been influential in his life. I realized then that his true accomplishment was not becoming a celebrity chef, writing cookbooks or teaching cooking techniques on TV, though they were the tools of his trade. His mission has always been to demonstrate the art of nurturing and the craft of building and fortifying community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116752\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 953px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW.jpg\" alt=\" Jacques Pépin nearing his 80th birthday, contemplates a wall filled with framed pictures of close friends and people who have been influential in his life.\" width=\"953\" height=\"530\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116752\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW.jpg 953w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-160x89.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-800x445.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-768x427.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-240x133.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-375x209.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-520x289.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 953px) 100vw, 953px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin nearing his 80th birthday, contemplates a wall filled with framed pictures of close friends and people who have been influential in his life. \u003ccite>(screenshot from Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This timely tribute to one immigrant's journey in the U.S. reminds us that change is as likely to arrive on our shores as it is to be home grown, given the right conditions. Everything worth having is worth working for and, as Pépin demonstrates, there are tried and true techniques that, with practice, will help us to master the art of living.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116732\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin (R), director Peter L. Stein (L), director of photography Vicente Franco, and sound engineer Jose Araujo, during the filming of Pépin’s American Masters documentary, 2016.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1282\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116732\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-768x513.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-1180x788.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-960x641.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin (R), director Peter L. Stein (L), director of photography Vicente Franco, and sound engineer Jose Araujo, during the filming of Pépin’s American Masters documentary, 2016. \u003ccite>(Jennifer Huang )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>https://player.vimeo.com/video/211423771\u003cbr>\nDocumentary maker Peter L. Stein describes some of the special on- and off-screen challenges of bringing Jacques Pépin's story to the screen for PBS's American Masters, and recalls his longtime collaboration with Jacques as producer of many of his early public television series.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Watch a clip from the documentary in which Jacques' wife Gloria shares the story of how she met Jacques.\u003cbr>\nhttps://youtu.be/j0LazvHsuUE\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>There are only two things wrong with Peter L. Stein's \u003cem>American Masters\u003c/em> documentary \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wnet/americanmasters/jacques-pepin-art-craft-film/8435/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, which premieres at San Francisco's Castro Theatre on Tuesday, April 25, 2017 and will premiere nationally on PBS stations Friday, May 26, at 9pm. First, it's not long enough; Pépin is such a charming character that -- especially in film digest form -- he leaves us wanting more. The film fizzes, pops and then is gone, like the delicate bubbles in a fine champagne. Second, this \"American\" master's French accent is still pretty thick, even after all these years. Though that is partially the point. In a political climate that puzzlingly discounts the contributions of immigrants, Pépin's adventure is a buoyant illustration of the catalytic grit, wit and innovation one newcomer can bring to an America still dreaming. Stein says, \"It's sometimes really nice to remember that people come to these shores, do good in the world and build something that actually changes culture.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Needle scratch. Rewind. Whenever we revisit the lives of celebrity chefs whose revolution eventually stocked our grocery store shelves with foods we now take for granted, we must first imagine the landscape BEFORE they arrived. We have to visit the U.S. supermarket with a young Jacques Pépin to discover with horror the only mushrooms on offer come in a can. The industrial practices that fed the troops in WWII have been weaponized to feed the masses and to make \"daily household drudgery\" (like cooking) a thing of the past. Everything is convenient, pre-sliced and pre-packaged. This idea is repeated in several recent documentaries, but given my own proximity to Rainbow Grocery and Whole Foods market, I still find it hard to grasp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116730\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin (left), his brother Roland, his mother Jeannette, his younger brother Bichon, and aunts and uncles in front of the family restaurant, Chez Pépin.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1347\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116730\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-800x561.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-768x539.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-1020x716.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-1180x828.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-960x674.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-240x168.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-375x263.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2100-Pepin-family-in-front-of-restaurant-1940s-1920-520x365.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin (left), his brother Roland, his mother Jeannette, his younger brother Bichon, and aunts and uncles in front of the family restaurant, Chez Pépin. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pépin was no slouch when he arrived in the U.S. in the late 1950s. The film uses re-enactment, family photos and archival footage to cover the chef's early life. His first kitchen experience was in one of the family restaurants his mother opened after the Second World War, which the teenage Pépin parlayed into apprenticeships at some of the finest establishments in Paris. When he was drafted into the French navy, Pépin's work ethic and creativity eventually garnered him the position as personal chef to three French heads of state, including Charles de Gaulle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116731\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-1020x1403.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin as a young apprentice in front of his mother’s restaurant, Chez Pépin.\" width=\"640\" height=\"880\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116731\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-1020x1403.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-160x220.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-800x1100.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-768x1056.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-1180x1623.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-960x1320.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-240x330.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-375x516.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JeunePepin_hires-tiff-ret02-1920-520x715.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin as a young apprentice in front of his mother’s restaurant, Chez Pépin. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116729\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin (left) with his brothers Bichon and Roland, 1957.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1365\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116729\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-800x569.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-768x546.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-1020x725.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-1180x839.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-960x683.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-240x171.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-375x267.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1022-Pepin-brothers-1957-Navy-1920-520x370.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin (left) with his brothers Bichon and Roland, 1957. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once his military service was over, Pépin headed to New York, landing a job at Le Pavillon, referred to in the film as the \"best restaurant in the U.S.\" at the time. This was probably where the Kennedys came to appreciate his talents, so much so that, after winning the 1960 presidential election, they asked him to serve as White House chef. Another needle scratch. Pépin turned down the job! He chose instead to become Director of Research in the test kitchen for Howard Johnson's, the largest restaurant chain in the U.S. at the time. This move is key to the current celebration of Pépin as a distinctively American master. After serving in the world's great temples of haute cuisine, he decided to learn about mass production, creating recipes for Beef Bourguignon that could be produced in 500 gallon vats and putting the French back in French Fries. A decade later, Pépin left that post to strike out on his own, opening a very popular lunch spot in mid-town Manhattan, La Potagerie, which only served soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116748\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1754px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pepin and his best friend, Jean-Claude Szurdak, in an early magazine photo shoot. \" width=\"1754\" height=\"1276\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116748\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude.jpg 1754w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-800x582.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-768x559.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-1020x742.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-1180x858.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-960x698.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-240x175.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-375x273.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1068_Pepin011_Kitchen_JeanClaude-520x378.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1754px) 100vw, 1754px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pepin and his best friend, Jean-Claude Szurdak, in an early magazine photo shoot. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116750\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 611px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin and Pierre Franey at the Howard Johnsons test kitchen, 1970s.\" width=\"611\" height=\"535\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116750\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW.jpg 611w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-160x140.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-240x210.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-375x328.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2170-JP-and-Franey-at-Hojo-commissary-NEW-520x455.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 611px) 100vw, 611px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin and Pierre Franey at the Howard Johnsons test kitchen, 1970s. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Pierre Franey Estate)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Eventually, the necessity arose for Pépin to reinvent himself once more. He wrote a cookbook, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Technique-Illustrated-Fundamental-Techniques-Cooking/dp/067179020X/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1491927105&sr=1-2&keywords=la+technique+jacques+pepin\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>La Technique\u003c/em>\u003c/a> that taught Americans much-needed, from what he had observed, basic techniques for food preparation. He followed the success of that first book with another, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Methode-Illustrated-Fundamental-Techniques-Hardcover/dp/B011WAFZH4/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1491927237&sr=1-3&keywords=la+methode+jacques+pepin\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>La Methode\u003c/em>\u003c/a>; the two books were essentially about empowering the home cook. They were revolutionary at the time, demonstrating food basics through step-by-step photographic layouts. Pépin then hit the road, touring extensively to promote the work, which was the only option in an age before cable networks devoted exclusively to food. Exploiting his suave good looks, his natural charm and humor, not to mention that sexy accent, Pépin became the Tom Jones of cooking. Women flocked to his public appearances and swooned. This was the 1970s and the U.S. was pretty hot for all things French. Anthony Bourdain summarizes this idea with the quote that opens the film, \"Before you have sex with another human being, you should be capable of preparing them an omelet to Jacques Pépin's standards the next morning.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116744\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-800x1150.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin in his garden.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1150\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-116744\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-800x1150.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-160x230.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-768x1104.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-960x1380.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-240x345.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-375x539.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden-520x748.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-garden.jpg 969w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin in his garden. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So of course TV came calling, most particularly KQED, which produced -- with the very same Peter L. Stein at the helm -- Pépin's first successful cooking series for public TV. While he is extremely accomplished, Pépin makes cooking look easy, without -- paradoxically -- pulling focus from the centrality of work. His amazingly expressive hands communicate volumes -- mastery, wit, joy -- with every small gesture. His emphasis on technique is about developing know-how in your hands, which is communicated through the grace of his own movements. The chef's knife is a baton; the paring knife is a pen. Pépin creates art and music with food, orchestrating the meal as a communion between friends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116747\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1408px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin teaching a cooking class in the 1970s.\" width=\"1408\" height=\"1483\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116747\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW.jpg 1408w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-160x169.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-800x843.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-768x809.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-1020x1074.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-1180x1243.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-960x1011.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-240x253.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-375x395.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2054-JP-cooking-demo-holding-mic-NEW-520x548.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1408px) 100vw, 1408px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin teaching a cooking class in the 1970s. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Jacques Pépin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pépin remained philosophically consistent on TV. With empowerment as his central goal, he utilized each half-hour segment to prepare a dish from start to finish, revealing how cooking is essentially technique and practice. He cemented this idea with another series wherein he taught his daughter Claudine to cook on the small screen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116755\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 900px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine.jpg\" alt=\" Jacques Pépin and his daughter Claudine in his television series (L to R): Today's Gourmet, Jacques Pépin 's Kitchen: Cooking with Claudine, and Chez Pépin.\" width=\"900\" height=\"223\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116755\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-160x40.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-800x198.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-768x190.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-240x59.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-375x93.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jp-claudine-520x129.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin and his daughter Claudine in his television series (L to R): Today's Gourmet, Jacques Pépin 's Kitchen: Cooking with Claudine, and Chez Pépin. \u003ccite>(screenshots from Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But \u003cem>The Art of Craft\u003c/em> is more than just one man's success story. Ultimately, it communicates, with the same breezy charm as its subject, the effect one person can have on a whole culture. This is the crucial idea that seems missing from today's America. We are a stew waiting for that distinctive ingredient that makes everything pop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pépin, along with a handful of other chefs like him, changed the way Americans perceived food. At one point, Pépin, nearing his 80th birthday, contemplates a wall filled with framed pictures of close friends and people who have been influential in his life. I realized then that his true accomplishment was not becoming a celebrity chef, writing cookbooks or teaching cooking techniques on TV, though they were the tools of his trade. His mission has always been to demonstrate the art of nurturing and the craft of building and fortifying community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116752\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 953px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW.jpg\" alt=\" Jacques Pépin nearing his 80th birthday, contemplates a wall filled with framed pictures of close friends and people who have been influential in his life.\" width=\"953\" height=\"530\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116752\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW.jpg 953w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-160x89.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-800x445.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-768x427.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-240x133.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-375x209.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/Screen-shot-2017-04-12-at-2.49-NEW-520x289.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 953px) 100vw, 953px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin nearing his 80th birthday, contemplates a wall filled with framed pictures of close friends and people who have been influential in his life. \u003ccite>(screenshot from Jacques Pépin: The Art of Craft)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This timely tribute to one immigrant's journey in the U.S. reminds us that change is as likely to arrive on our shores as it is to be home grown, given the right conditions. Everything worth having is worth working for and, as Pépin demonstrates, there are tried and true techniques that, with practice, will help us to master the art of living.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116732\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920.jpg\" alt=\"Jacques Pépin (R), director Peter L. Stein (L), director of photography Vicente Franco, and sound engineer Jose Araujo, during the filming of Pépin’s American Masters documentary, 2016.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1282\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116732\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-768x513.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-1180x788.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-960x641.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/JP-with-book-DSC_7094-1920-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Pépin (R), director Peter L. Stein (L), director of photography Vicente Franco, and sound engineer Jose Araujo, during the filming of Pépin’s American Masters documentary, 2016. \u003ccite>(Jennifer Huang )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>https://player.vimeo.com/video/211423771\u003cbr>\nDocumentary maker Peter L. Stein describes some of the special on- and off-screen challenges of bringing Jacques Pépin's story to the screen for PBS's American Masters, and recalls his longtime collaboration with Jacques as producer of many of his early public television series.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"marketplace": {
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
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"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"pri-the-world": {
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"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"radiolab": {
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"reveal": {
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},
"rightnowish": {
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"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"info": "Science Friday is a weekly science talk show, broadcast live over public radio stations nationwide. Each week, the show focuses on science topics that are in the news and tries to bring an educated, balanced discussion to bear on the scientific issues at hand. Panels of expert guests join host Ira Flatow, a veteran science journalist, to discuss science and to take questions from listeners during the call-in portion of the program.",
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"snap-judgment": {
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"tagline": "Real stories with killer beats",
"info": "The Snap Judgment radio show and podcast mixes real stories with killer beats to produce cinematic, dramatic radio. Snap's musical brand of storytelling dares listeners to see the world through the eyes of another. This is storytelling... with a BEAT!! Snap first aired on public radio stations nationwide in July 2010. Today, Snap Judgment airs on over 450 public radio stations and is brought to the airwaves by KQED & PRX.",
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