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"disqusTitle": "Marin Sun Farms Tour",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/davechix500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/davechix500.jpg\" alt=\"Dave Evans and chickens\" title=\"Dave Evans and chickens\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15629\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Look at that dung pile!\" said \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinsunfarms.com\">Marin Sun Farms\u003c/a> owner Dave Evans enthusiastically, crouching next to a scratched-over cow pat criss-crossed with chicken tracks. What was a freshly deposited pile of manure yesterday is now almost indistinguishable from the trampled-down grasses around it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's exactly Evans' point. It's a sharp contrast with a week-old manure pile we'd seen just a few minutes before, on a section of pasture not yet visited by the farm's mobile chicken trailers. That pile was stiffened and dry, peppered with tiny holes where fly eggs had hatched. But over here, the chickens had done their work, pecking the protein-rich fly larvae out of the heap of digested grasses and scratching the high-nitrogen waste into the soil to feed the grass that will feed the cows that will eventually become the burgers sold at the butcher shop down the road from the ranch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a closed-circle grass-farming and ranching system, much like the one espoused by Joel Salatin, the farmer made famous by Michael Pollan's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0143038583/kqedorg-20\">The Omnivore's Dilemma\u003c/a>. Pollan's book, of course, was the one which pulled locavore living off the blogs and onto the bestseller list. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a cool, foggy morning in July, a group of about 15 of us had gathered in a gravel-scattered parking lot in front of the farm buildings for a combination talk and walk across the rolling acres that form the center of Marin Sun's network of sustainably-managed, pasture-raised livestock operations. The free tours are held once a month, usually from mid-spring through mid-fall, before the winter rains begin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Introducing himself, owner Dave Evans launched into a freewheeling oral history of the land where we're standing. It's a topic he knows well: his family has been working this land as dairy and cattle farmers for four generations, since his great-grandfather, once a dairy farmer in Switzerland, moved to California and began raising cattle in West Marin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Damp, chilly, and fogbound much of the year, the rolling hills of the Point Reyes peninsula weren't worth much as farmland. But they were perfect for growing lush, green grass that stayed green for a lot longer than in the hot inland valleys. Cows raised on Point Reyes grass produced particularly good milk--and thanks to steamships that chugged from Drakes' Estero and Tomales Bay down into San Francisco (later replaced by refrigerated trucks), butter stamped \"PR\" quickly developed a reputation for superior freshness and quality. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Evans' family, like many others on the area's historic lettered system of dairy farms, continued as a dairy farmers until the mid-70s. Then, as milk prices dropped and the dairy industry began to consolidate, Evans' parents switched to beef cattle. Evans was born in 1972, on the original \"H\" ranch owned by his grandfather. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, the land is owned by the National Park Service, as part of the Point Reyes National Seashore established by President Kennedy in 1962. As an acknowledgment of the area's living history, a special pastoral zone was created as part of the federal mandate, allowing descendants of the area's original ranching families to continue to raise livestock. Evans and his relatives lease their land from the Park Service, abiding by an often-complex set of park rules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/cows500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/cows500.jpg\" alt=\"cows\" title=\"cows\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15631\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The end result? A herd of cows living on perhaps the most scenic pastureland in California, munching their way year-round through an assortment of native and perennial grasses and plants. They're followed by two different sets of chicken trailers: high, tarp-covered nesting boxes for the layers, and low, fenced-in hutches for the meat birds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/chickens500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/chickens500.jpg\" alt=\"chickens\" title=\"chickens\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15633\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The layers--a mixture of Barred Rocks, Ameraucanas, Brown and Gold Sexlinks, and Rhode Island Reds--are rovers. Watched over by one of the farm's brawny, blase guard dogs, the chickens wander freely in front of their mobile homes, gossiping, pecking, scratching, and wallowing, like a feathered bunch of middle schoolers during recess. The eggs they lay are collected daily. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/chicken-500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/chicken-500.jpg\" alt=\"chickens\" title=\"chickens\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15635\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At dusk, the chickens retreat into the houses to roost, and the doors are locked against predators. The next day, the houses, perched on heavy wooden runners, are hooked up to a truck and moved to a fresh section of pasture. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/meatbirds500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/meatbirds500.jpg\" alt=\"meatbirds\" title=\"meatbirds\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15637\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The meat birds, by contrast, don't have as much interest in the outside world. They prefer to clump together, eating a naturally omnivorous diet of grass, bugs, and grain and yes, fattening up remarkably fast. In just a few months, the birds go from downy yellow chicks peeping under the heat lamps of the brood houses to fully-grown white-feathered birds, ready for the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Running a successful livestock operation on the land where he was born and bred is a particular source of satisfaction for Evans. Graduating from Cal Poly with an agricultural business degree, he was already convinced that he knew the best place to work, and it wasn't going to be one of the huge CAFOs in Iowa that came recruiting at the school's job fairs. Instead, he went back to his family's land, working on his father's ranch, then branching out into a fencing company of his own. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marin Sun started with a few dozen cows grazing on leased property in Nicasio. His initial goal? To market maybe 5 animals a year, exclusively grass-fed. Then Michael Pollan's New York Times Magazine article \"Power Steer\" happened, and millions of people were suddenly shocked by the brutal realities of life and death in the feedlot. \"We'd bought a $5 ad on \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatwild.com\">Eatwild\u003c/a>, the only marketing we were doing at the time. Pollan's article told people to go to Eatwild to find grass-fed beef, and that day our phone rang off the hook.\" The ensuing years, Evans admits, were a blur as the company and the cows grew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, some 11 years later, Evans is raising his cattle and chickens back on the land where he grew up. Marin Sun cuts, ages, packages, and distributes all its own meat around the Bay Area, to restaurants, grocery stores, two of its own butcher shops (the company recently took over the butcher shop in the Rockridge Market Hall), and a 200+member meat CSA. Everything but the slaughtering (done at a facility in Petaluma) is done in-house, either in space rented at a warehouse along the waterfront in San Francisco or in a warren of small, white-walled rooms hidden behind the butcher shop and cafe in Point Reyes Station. Here, four men stand at a waist-high counter, breaking down primal cuts into retail-ready parts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Walking into the refrigerated storage room, I was struck not just by the visceral reality of the meat--shelves labeled (and stocked) with goat heads, lamb legs, beef tongues--but by the clean, healthy look and smell of it all. Yes, the room smelled like meat, but it was a pleasing smell. These were animals that had had a healthy life, and it showed. You may not agree with raising or eating animals for food, but if it's going to be done, it should be done right, and here, it is. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not all of Marin Sun's meat comes from Evans' own ranch. The realities of pasture-raising means that his own animals reach their finished weight only during a particular three-month window each year. \"No restaurant, no supermarket wants to deal with a producer who only has product 3 months out of the year,\" noted Evans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The answer? Establishing a network of co-producers, ranchers working in a variety of local micro-climates who would raise their livestock on pasture according to Marin Sun protocols. The goats, for example, are raised by Evans' sister, so close by that his own guard dogs often trot over to do a little goat herding, just for fun. Other ranchers raise lamb and sheep, pigs, and cows. More meat raised by Marin Sun protocols means more humane ranching, and more ranchers able to make a living working sustainably. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All well and good, of course, but the proof rests with the plate. Just a few months ago, Marin Sun started serving lunches again at their butcher shop in Point Reyes Station. The menu is brief: three burgers, a couple of salads, and fries, plus beer, wine, and Blue Bottle coffee. You order off a chalkboard at the counter, pay, and then sit at one of the tables covered with (what else?) brown butcher paper. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/burgers500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/burgers500.jpg\" alt=\"burgers and fries\" title=\"burgers and fries\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15627\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The day I visited, the options were a lamb burger topped with Pt Reyes Blue cheese, a beef burger with raw-milk cheddar and house-smoked bacon, and a goat burger topped with caramelized onions and goat cheese. We tried the lamb and the goat, and they were, quite simply, fantastic: juicy and pink inside, full of rich and meaty flavor and served with a fat half-pickle and a fluff of mixed greens. French fries, crisped in pork fat, are for serious meat-lovers only; while the texture is great (crisp outside, fluffed inside), the pork fat makes these some seriously heavyweight fries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perusing the meat cases after lunch, I picked out a plump half chicken breast. I felt that now I could read the life story of the chicken in my hand, from its arrival at the farm through its time in the brood houses, its life out in the pastures and then onto the table. I took it home, roasting it simply with lemon and garlic to juicy, brown-skinned perfection and a truly local taste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The next Marin Sun Farms tours are scheduled for September 1st and September 22nd at 10 AM. To register and get more information, go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinsunfarms.com/about/farm_tours.html\">Marin Sun Farms\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "On a cool, foggy morning in July, a group of about 15 of us gathered in a gravel-scattered parking lot in front of the farm buildings for a combination talk and walk across the rolling acres that form the center of Marin Sun's network of sustainably-managed, pasture-raised livestock operations. The free tours are held once a month, usually from mid-spring through mid-fall, before the winter rains begin. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/davechix500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/davechix500.jpg\" alt=\"Dave Evans and chickens\" title=\"Dave Evans and chickens\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15629\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Look at that dung pile!\" said \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinsunfarms.com\">Marin Sun Farms\u003c/a> owner Dave Evans enthusiastically, crouching next to a scratched-over cow pat criss-crossed with chicken tracks. What was a freshly deposited pile of manure yesterday is now almost indistinguishable from the trampled-down grasses around it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's exactly Evans' point. It's a sharp contrast with a week-old manure pile we'd seen just a few minutes before, on a section of pasture not yet visited by the farm's mobile chicken trailers. That pile was stiffened and dry, peppered with tiny holes where fly eggs had hatched. But over here, the chickens had done their work, pecking the protein-rich fly larvae out of the heap of digested grasses and scratching the high-nitrogen waste into the soil to feed the grass that will feed the cows that will eventually become the burgers sold at the butcher shop down the road from the ranch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a closed-circle grass-farming and ranching system, much like the one espoused by Joel Salatin, the farmer made famous by Michael Pollan's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0143038583/kqedorg-20\">The Omnivore's Dilemma\u003c/a>. Pollan's book, of course, was the one which pulled locavore living off the blogs and onto the bestseller list. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a cool, foggy morning in July, a group of about 15 of us had gathered in a gravel-scattered parking lot in front of the farm buildings for a combination talk and walk across the rolling acres that form the center of Marin Sun's network of sustainably-managed, pasture-raised livestock operations. The free tours are held once a month, usually from mid-spring through mid-fall, before the winter rains begin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Introducing himself, owner Dave Evans launched into a freewheeling oral history of the land where we're standing. It's a topic he knows well: his family has been working this land as dairy and cattle farmers for four generations, since his great-grandfather, once a dairy farmer in Switzerland, moved to California and began raising cattle in West Marin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Damp, chilly, and fogbound much of the year, the rolling hills of the Point Reyes peninsula weren't worth much as farmland. But they were perfect for growing lush, green grass that stayed green for a lot longer than in the hot inland valleys. Cows raised on Point Reyes grass produced particularly good milk--and thanks to steamships that chugged from Drakes' Estero and Tomales Bay down into San Francisco (later replaced by refrigerated trucks), butter stamped \"PR\" quickly developed a reputation for superior freshness and quality. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Evans' family, like many others on the area's historic lettered system of dairy farms, continued as a dairy farmers until the mid-70s. Then, as milk prices dropped and the dairy industry began to consolidate, Evans' parents switched to beef cattle. Evans was born in 1972, on the original \"H\" ranch owned by his grandfather. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, the land is owned by the National Park Service, as part of the Point Reyes National Seashore established by President Kennedy in 1962. As an acknowledgment of the area's living history, a special pastoral zone was created as part of the federal mandate, allowing descendants of the area's original ranching families to continue to raise livestock. Evans and his relatives lease their land from the Park Service, abiding by an often-complex set of park rules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/cows500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/cows500.jpg\" alt=\"cows\" title=\"cows\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15631\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The end result? A herd of cows living on perhaps the most scenic pastureland in California, munching their way year-round through an assortment of native and perennial grasses and plants. They're followed by two different sets of chicken trailers: high, tarp-covered nesting boxes for the layers, and low, fenced-in hutches for the meat birds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/chickens500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/chickens500.jpg\" alt=\"chickens\" title=\"chickens\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15633\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The layers--a mixture of Barred Rocks, Ameraucanas, Brown and Gold Sexlinks, and Rhode Island Reds--are rovers. Watched over by one of the farm's brawny, blase guard dogs, the chickens wander freely in front of their mobile homes, gossiping, pecking, scratching, and wallowing, like a feathered bunch of middle schoolers during recess. The eggs they lay are collected daily. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/chicken-500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/chicken-500.jpg\" alt=\"chickens\" title=\"chickens\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15635\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At dusk, the chickens retreat into the houses to roost, and the doors are locked against predators. The next day, the houses, perched on heavy wooden runners, are hooked up to a truck and moved to a fresh section of pasture. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/meatbirds500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/meatbirds500.jpg\" alt=\"meatbirds\" title=\"meatbirds\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15637\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The meat birds, by contrast, don't have as much interest in the outside world. They prefer to clump together, eating a naturally omnivorous diet of grass, bugs, and grain and yes, fattening up remarkably fast. In just a few months, the birds go from downy yellow chicks peeping under the heat lamps of the brood houses to fully-grown white-feathered birds, ready for the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Running a successful livestock operation on the land where he was born and bred is a particular source of satisfaction for Evans. Graduating from Cal Poly with an agricultural business degree, he was already convinced that he knew the best place to work, and it wasn't going to be one of the huge CAFOs in Iowa that came recruiting at the school's job fairs. Instead, he went back to his family's land, working on his father's ranch, then branching out into a fencing company of his own. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marin Sun started with a few dozen cows grazing on leased property in Nicasio. His initial goal? To market maybe 5 animals a year, exclusively grass-fed. Then Michael Pollan's New York Times Magazine article \"Power Steer\" happened, and millions of people were suddenly shocked by the brutal realities of life and death in the feedlot. \"We'd bought a $5 ad on \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatwild.com\">Eatwild\u003c/a>, the only marketing we were doing at the time. Pollan's article told people to go to Eatwild to find grass-fed beef, and that day our phone rang off the hook.\" The ensuing years, Evans admits, were a blur as the company and the cows grew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, some 11 years later, Evans is raising his cattle and chickens back on the land where he grew up. Marin Sun cuts, ages, packages, and distributes all its own meat around the Bay Area, to restaurants, grocery stores, two of its own butcher shops (the company recently took over the butcher shop in the Rockridge Market Hall), and a 200+member meat CSA. Everything but the slaughtering (done at a facility in Petaluma) is done in-house, either in space rented at a warehouse along the waterfront in San Francisco or in a warren of small, white-walled rooms hidden behind the butcher shop and cafe in Point Reyes Station. Here, four men stand at a waist-high counter, breaking down primal cuts into retail-ready parts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Walking into the refrigerated storage room, I was struck not just by the visceral reality of the meat--shelves labeled (and stocked) with goat heads, lamb legs, beef tongues--but by the clean, healthy look and smell of it all. Yes, the room smelled like meat, but it was a pleasing smell. These were animals that had had a healthy life, and it showed. You may not agree with raising or eating animals for food, but if it's going to be done, it should be done right, and here, it is. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not all of Marin Sun's meat comes from Evans' own ranch. The realities of pasture-raising means that his own animals reach their finished weight only during a particular three-month window each year. \"No restaurant, no supermarket wants to deal with a producer who only has product 3 months out of the year,\" noted Evans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The answer? Establishing a network of co-producers, ranchers working in a variety of local micro-climates who would raise their livestock on pasture according to Marin Sun protocols. The goats, for example, are raised by Evans' sister, so close by that his own guard dogs often trot over to do a little goat herding, just for fun. Other ranchers raise lamb and sheep, pigs, and cows. More meat raised by Marin Sun protocols means more humane ranching, and more ranchers able to make a living working sustainably. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All well and good, of course, but the proof rests with the plate. Just a few months ago, Marin Sun started serving lunches again at their butcher shop in Point Reyes Station. The menu is brief: three burgers, a couple of salads, and fries, plus beer, wine, and Blue Bottle coffee. You order off a chalkboard at the counter, pay, and then sit at one of the tables covered with (what else?) brown butcher paper. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/burgers500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/burgers500.jpg\" alt=\"burgers and fries\" title=\"burgers and fries\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15627\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The day I visited, the options were a lamb burger topped with Pt Reyes Blue cheese, a beef burger with raw-milk cheddar and house-smoked bacon, and a goat burger topped with caramelized onions and goat cheese. We tried the lamb and the goat, and they were, quite simply, fantastic: juicy and pink inside, full of rich and meaty flavor and served with a fat half-pickle and a fluff of mixed greens. French fries, crisped in pork fat, are for serious meat-lovers only; while the texture is great (crisp outside, fluffed inside), the pork fat makes these some seriously heavyweight fries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perusing the meat cases after lunch, I picked out a plump half chicken breast. I felt that now I could read the life story of the chicken in my hand, from its arrival at the farm through its time in the brood houses, its life out in the pastures and then onto the table. I took it home, roasting it simply with lemon and garlic to juicy, brown-skinned perfection and a truly local taste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The next Marin Sun Farms tours are scheduled for September 1st and September 22nd at 10 AM. To register and get more information, go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinsunfarms.com/about/farm_tours.html\">Marin Sun Farms\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm, Maui",
"title": "Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm, Maui",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3906.jpg\" alt=\"Ali'i Kula Lavender and Honeybee\" title=\"Ali'i Kula Lavender and Honeybee\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15141\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Lavender and a Honeybee\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Can you smell that?\" I asked Hua, who was thankfully navigating the winding road, going up and up, as I rolled down the window and stuck my head out like an excited pup. We were in upcountry \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/foodmusings/maui-edition-2010-kapalua-wine-and-food-festival/\">Maui\u003c/a>, on our way to the \u003ca href=\"http://aliikulalavender.com/\">Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm\u003c/a>, and I could smell it! The faintest trace of that intoxicating fragrance. There was no mistaking it, we were close. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3901.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3901.jpg\" alt=\"Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm\" title=\"Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15140\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perched 4,000 feet on the slopes of the volcano Haleakala, \u003cstrong>Ali'i Kula Lavender\u003c/strong> is the site of over 55,000 lavender plants blooming across 13.5 acres of serenity. More than 45 varieties of the lovely plant are grown on the farm, 7 of which bloom year round.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3934b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3934b.jpg\" alt=\"Ali'i Chang, owner and farmer\" title=\"Ali'i Chang, owner and farmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15148\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ali'i Chang, owner and farmer\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ali’i Chang is the owner and farmer of Ali’i Kula Lavender. Since February 2002, under the warmth of the Hawaiian sun and Ali'i's smiling demeanor, the farm has flourished with not only lavender, but also vibrant proteas, hydrangeas, geraniums, roses, olive trees, and native Hawaiian plants. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While lavender is not a native species to Hawaii, the cool and dry climate, and rich volcanic soil create an optimal environment for it to grow. And yes, I did say \"cool climate.\" Maui sustains a fascinating number of microclimates, and it happens that in lavender country, temperatures can go down to the 40s at night. Remember that if you find yourself sunburned and sweltering just an hour or so away by the coast. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for how lavender first came to Hawaii, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.artipot.com/articles/274424/the-mystery-of-the-history-of-lavender-in-hawaii.htm\">history\u003c/a> is a bit unclear, but supposedly, the herb was brought from England to the royal palace in Honolulu in the 19th century (it seems Hawaii's last monarch, Queen Liliuokalani fancied it). In homage to its noble history, Ali'i Kula Lavender means the Royal Lavender of Kula. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3928.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3928.jpg\" alt=\"View from Buddha\" title=\"View from Buddha\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15144\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>View from Buddha\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fragrance of lavender is known to have calming effects on one's being, and indeed, as I surveyed the sweeping vista in front of me and drank in the quiet beauty of the place, I felt a grounding sense of zen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, Ali'i Kula Lavender's mantra is \"Relax, Rejuvenate, Renew,\" and it seems that every detail and service offered there is to reinforce that mindset. The dragonfly is used as their logo, an emblem that symbolizes rebirth and renewal; quiet sanctuaries are scattered throughout the grounds, picturesque places to just sit and enjoy, maybe even catch a quick nap; and everywhere you look, the mark of thoughtfulness appears. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3952.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3952.jpg\" alt=\"Toaster Oven\" title=\"Toaster Oven\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15150\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Toasty Scones\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite? The toaster ovens out on the porch, ready to warm up one of the farm's famous buttery, flaky, Lavender Scones, and a spread of complimentary lavender liliko'i (passion fruit) jelly, lavender strawberry pepper jam, lavender honey, and lavender strawberry syrup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which brings me to the dizzying array of lavender products available here (more than 75, if you're counting). Edible, non-edible, sweet, savory -- you name it, they've got it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3959.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3959.jpg\" alt=\"Ali'i Kula Lavender Shop\" title=\"Ali'i Kula Lavender Shop\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15146\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ali'i Kula Lavender Shop\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lavender brownies and shortbread cookies, teas, seasonings, jams, honey from the beehives on the property (crazy good), every bath and body product you could imagine, candles, sachets, even pet grooming products!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apparently, not only does the scent of lavender relax and soothe, it also reduces symptoms from insomnia and vertigo, acts as a natural antiseptic, healing cuts and insect bites, and moisturizes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been slathering myself with the heavenly \u003ca href=\"http://www.aliikulalavender.com/p-16-organic-lavender-body-butter.aspx\">body butter\u003c/a> ever since I got my paws on a jar, and I can say, not only does it soften the skin, it helps to ease the imminent Maui withdrawal you're bound to face once you leave this paradise. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also picked up some \u003ca href=\"http://www.aliikulalavender.com/p-51-lavender-scone-mix.aspx\">scone mix\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.aliikulalavender.com/p-19-lavender-herb-tea.aspx\">lavender herb tea\u003c/a> (made with lemon balm, mint, and chamomile) to help transport myself to a royal Ali'i Kula tea service whenever I wish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3984.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3984.jpg\" alt=\"Ali'i Kula Lavender\" title=\"Ali'i Kula Lavender\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15147\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ali'i Kula Lavender\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The impressive number of products is made possible by partnerships with more than 25 local businesses like \u003ca href=\"http://www.onogelatocompany.com/ono_gelato_company.html\">Ono Gelato\u003c/a> (responsible for lavender chocolate gelato), \u003ca href=\"http://www.kauaikookie.com/\">Kauai Kookie Kompany\u003c/a> (producer of the delectable lavender shortbread cookies), \u003ca href=\"http://www.hawaiianfudgesauce.com/\">The Hawaiian Fudge Sauce Company\u003c/a> (lavender fudge sauce), \u003ca href=\"http://www.bigislandcandies.com/\">Big Island Candies\u003c/a> (lavender brownies and chocolate truffles), and so on… \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It is our social responsibility to take care of our communities and offer an experience that allows people to 'reconnect' to the land, to each other, and to themselves,\" says Chang. \"We try to create opportunities for 'togetherness'.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is this spirit of togetherness, collaboration, community that makes this lavender farm up in the mountains truly special. That, and the awesome smelling air.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3938.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3938.jpg\" alt=\"Stop and Smell the Lavender\" title=\"Stop and Smell the Lavender\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15145\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Stop and Smell the Lavender\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://aliikulalavender.com/\">Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1100 Waipoli Road\u003cbr>\nKula, HI 96790\u003cbr>\n808-878-3004\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A journey to upcountry Maui, where Ali'i Kula Lavender is in the air...and everything else.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3906.jpg\" alt=\"Ali'i Kula Lavender and Honeybee\" title=\"Ali'i Kula Lavender and Honeybee\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15141\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Lavender and a Honeybee\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Can you smell that?\" I asked Hua, who was thankfully navigating the winding road, going up and up, as I rolled down the window and stuck my head out like an excited pup. We were in upcountry \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/foodmusings/maui-edition-2010-kapalua-wine-and-food-festival/\">Maui\u003c/a>, on our way to the \u003ca href=\"http://aliikulalavender.com/\">Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm\u003c/a>, and I could smell it! The faintest trace of that intoxicating fragrance. There was no mistaking it, we were close. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3901.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3901.jpg\" alt=\"Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm\" title=\"Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15140\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perched 4,000 feet on the slopes of the volcano Haleakala, \u003cstrong>Ali'i Kula Lavender\u003c/strong> is the site of over 55,000 lavender plants blooming across 13.5 acres of serenity. More than 45 varieties of the lovely plant are grown on the farm, 7 of which bloom year round.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3934b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3934b.jpg\" alt=\"Ali'i Chang, owner and farmer\" title=\"Ali'i Chang, owner and farmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15148\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ali'i Chang, owner and farmer\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ali’i Chang is the owner and farmer of Ali’i Kula Lavender. Since February 2002, under the warmth of the Hawaiian sun and Ali'i's smiling demeanor, the farm has flourished with not only lavender, but also vibrant proteas, hydrangeas, geraniums, roses, olive trees, and native Hawaiian plants. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While lavender is not a native species to Hawaii, the cool and dry climate, and rich volcanic soil create an optimal environment for it to grow. And yes, I did say \"cool climate.\" Maui sustains a fascinating number of microclimates, and it happens that in lavender country, temperatures can go down to the 40s at night. Remember that if you find yourself sunburned and sweltering just an hour or so away by the coast. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for how lavender first came to Hawaii, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.artipot.com/articles/274424/the-mystery-of-the-history-of-lavender-in-hawaii.htm\">history\u003c/a> is a bit unclear, but supposedly, the herb was brought from England to the royal palace in Honolulu in the 19th century (it seems Hawaii's last monarch, Queen Liliuokalani fancied it). In homage to its noble history, Ali'i Kula Lavender means the Royal Lavender of Kula. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3928.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3928.jpg\" alt=\"View from Buddha\" title=\"View from Buddha\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15144\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>View from Buddha\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fragrance of lavender is known to have calming effects on one's being, and indeed, as I surveyed the sweeping vista in front of me and drank in the quiet beauty of the place, I felt a grounding sense of zen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, Ali'i Kula Lavender's mantra is \"Relax, Rejuvenate, Renew,\" and it seems that every detail and service offered there is to reinforce that mindset. The dragonfly is used as their logo, an emblem that symbolizes rebirth and renewal; quiet sanctuaries are scattered throughout the grounds, picturesque places to just sit and enjoy, maybe even catch a quick nap; and everywhere you look, the mark of thoughtfulness appears. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3952.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3952.jpg\" alt=\"Toaster Oven\" title=\"Toaster Oven\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15150\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Toasty Scones\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite? The toaster ovens out on the porch, ready to warm up one of the farm's famous buttery, flaky, Lavender Scones, and a spread of complimentary lavender liliko'i (passion fruit) jelly, lavender strawberry pepper jam, lavender honey, and lavender strawberry syrup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which brings me to the dizzying array of lavender products available here (more than 75, if you're counting). Edible, non-edible, sweet, savory -- you name it, they've got it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3959.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3959.jpg\" alt=\"Ali'i Kula Lavender Shop\" title=\"Ali'i Kula Lavender Shop\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15146\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ali'i Kula Lavender Shop\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lavender brownies and shortbread cookies, teas, seasonings, jams, honey from the beehives on the property (crazy good), every bath and body product you could imagine, candles, sachets, even pet grooming products!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apparently, not only does the scent of lavender relax and soothe, it also reduces symptoms from insomnia and vertigo, acts as a natural antiseptic, healing cuts and insect bites, and moisturizes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been slathering myself with the heavenly \u003ca href=\"http://www.aliikulalavender.com/p-16-organic-lavender-body-butter.aspx\">body butter\u003c/a> ever since I got my paws on a jar, and I can say, not only does it soften the skin, it helps to ease the imminent Maui withdrawal you're bound to face once you leave this paradise. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also picked up some \u003ca href=\"http://www.aliikulalavender.com/p-51-lavender-scone-mix.aspx\">scone mix\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.aliikulalavender.com/p-19-lavender-herb-tea.aspx\">lavender herb tea\u003c/a> (made with lemon balm, mint, and chamomile) to help transport myself to a royal Ali'i Kula tea service whenever I wish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3984.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3984.jpg\" alt=\"Ali'i Kula Lavender\" title=\"Ali'i Kula Lavender\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15147\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ali'i Kula Lavender\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The impressive number of products is made possible by partnerships with more than 25 local businesses like \u003ca href=\"http://www.onogelatocompany.com/ono_gelato_company.html\">Ono Gelato\u003c/a> (responsible for lavender chocolate gelato), \u003ca href=\"http://www.kauaikookie.com/\">Kauai Kookie Kompany\u003c/a> (producer of the delectable lavender shortbread cookies), \u003ca href=\"http://www.hawaiianfudgesauce.com/\">The Hawaiian Fudge Sauce Company\u003c/a> (lavender fudge sauce), \u003ca href=\"http://www.bigislandcandies.com/\">Big Island Candies\u003c/a> (lavender brownies and chocolate truffles), and so on… \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It is our social responsibility to take care of our communities and offer an experience that allows people to 'reconnect' to the land, to each other, and to themselves,\" says Chang. \"We try to create opportunities for 'togetherness'.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is this spirit of togetherness, collaboration, community that makes this lavender farm up in the mountains truly special. That, and the awesome smelling air.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3938.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Maui_Alii-Kula-Lavender-3938.jpg\" alt=\"Stop and Smell the Lavender\" title=\"Stop and Smell the Lavender\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15145\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Stop and Smell the Lavender\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://aliikulalavender.com/\">Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1100 Waipoli Road\u003cbr>\nKula, HI 96790\u003cbr>\n808-878-3004\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Breakfast in Lake Tahoe",
"title": "Breakfast in Lake Tahoe",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/IMG_5134.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/IMG_5134.jpg\" alt=\"Rosie's\" title=\"Rosie's\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14923\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Rosie's Cafe, a Tahoe City institution\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lake Tahoe is, for many a Bay Area resident, a beloved vacation spot. A mere few hours in the car and you trade the traffic (kind of) and gridlock of day to day life for clean air, endless trees, the sound of boat motors in the distance, and an inviting (albeit rather cold) crystal blue lake. My family's been coming up to Lake Tahoe ever since I was three years old. We have a modest cabin on the North Shore where, growing up, my sisters and I and made \u003ca href=\"http://www.logcabinbreakfast.com/\">Log Cabin Ice Cream\u003c/a>, Kings Beach, the Mini Golf Course and 7-11 (best slurpee in town) our home throughout the summer months. Today, my sisters and I are grown adults and rarely all get up there at the same time. The house has been renovated recently and is much less modest. And of course, our priorities have changed. No longer do we jump at the chance to go mini-golfing or score a cone of blue bubblegum ice cream. Nowadays, there is a lot of beach lounging, novel reading, hiking, and late breakfasts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last weekend, I drove up to the cabin to spend some time with my dad. We barbecued, took the boat out, did a lot of dock-sitting, and went to breakfast. As the years have passed, our favorite breakfast spots change and revolve like new gym shoes. But the current favorite (for the last few years now) is \u003ca href=\"http://www.rosiescafe.com/\">Rosie's\u003c/a> in Tahoe City. I was actually first introduced to Rosie's by a few of my students when I was teaching college composition in--of all places--Boston. I'd assigned an essay where students were asked to write about the one place they felt truly at home. Two students wrote about Rosie's: a breakfast spot all the way across the country that their family had been going to since they were little. It turns out Rosie's was a mere fifteen minute drive from my family's cabin and I'd never even been. How could this be? I asked each student to elaborate: what was so great? What's your favorite thing to order? The resounding answers to the latter were the pancakes: the fluffiest they'd ever had. Hands down. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So next time I was up at the cabin, over a year later, I was training for a marathon. After a grueling 18-mile run, I came back starving and suggested we all head out for breakfast. Rosie's popped into my mind. And because I'd run for virtually three hours that morning, I ordered two breakfasts. I haven't looked back since. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My students were right. The pancakes basically rock. Rosie's specializes in Swedish Oatmeal Pancakes topped with applesauce, imported lingonberries and sour cream. They also do very traditional buttermilk pancakes. While you may be tempted to go the Swedish route (as was I), I'm here to advise you to go traditional this time around. I found the Swedish pancakes to be quite flat, a bit soggy, and rather flavorless. They're a little too gloppy for their own good. But the buttermilk pancakes are another tale altogether: they're uber-light and fluffy yet substantial enough to hold large pats of butter and long pours of syrup. If you're coming to Rosie's for the first time and you're a pancake person, this is your order. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, if you tend more towards the egg side of life, the Green Eggs and Ham is one of my favorites. It's a scramble with spinach, avocado, green onions and jack cheese served with a side of ham. Everything's in proportion, there's not too much cheese and the eggs are cooked perfectly (often my complaint with scrambles). The Eggs Benecado is another favorite: a benedict with an english muffin, sliced tomato, guacamole, and poached eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/IMG_5132.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/IMG_5132.jpg\" alt=\"Eggs Benecado\" title=\"Eggs Benecado\" width=\"500\" height=\"351\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14925\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Eggs Benecado at Rosie's Cafe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> I always order the Florentine sauce on the side; they can be a little heavy-handed here. And last, the Breakfast Burrito. I wasn't the one to order a breakfast burrito because, well, I usually hate them. I find that they're rarely hot all the way though and often the eggs can be a little runny. But my dad loves the Breakfast Burrito at Rosie's and he's made me an almost-convert. I'll admit it: it's good. Really good. There's really nothing that remarkable about the ingredients. We're talking eggs, beans, bacon, chives, and cheese. But it's thoughtfully put together and cooked perfectly. Those things are important when we're talking about a big jumble of breakfast ingredients. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And a review of Rosie's wouldn't be complete without a mention of the Chicken Fried Steak. Again, this has never been my first choice but my sister swears by it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/IMG_5129.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/IMG_5129.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken Fried Steak\" title=\"Chicken Fried Steak\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14926\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chicken Fried Steak at Rosie's Cafe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a stick-to-your-ribs breakfast and according to our neighbors on the lake, this is the locals spot for chicken fried steak. With traditional country gravy, fluffy eggs, and crispy hashbrowns--this has been a faithful hangover breakfast in my family in the case that the previous night got a little too raucous. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, thanks to my students who wrote essays on Rosie's. Thanks to the owners who have maintained the likeable vintage decor (everything from antique bikes and ski equipment to elk horn chandeliers) since they purchased it in 1989, and thanks to the bad diner coffee and good dependable food--we return each year. It's come to signify mornings when all of us are, miraculously, together at the same table up at the lake. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.rosiescafe.com/index.html\">Rosie's Cafe\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n571 North Lake Boulevard \u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Rosie%27s+near+Lake+Tahoe,+Carson+City,+CA&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=44.069599,58.623047&ie=UTF8&hq=Rosie%27s&hnear=Lake+Tahoe&ll=39.196077,-119.761963&spn=1.300526,1.83197&z=9&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTahoe City, CA 96145\u003cbr>\n(530) 583-8504\u003cbr>\nHours: Open daily, 7:30am-9pm (although the bar will stay open later if there are folks drinking)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Other Favorite Breakfast Spots Around the Lake\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMaybe you've had one too many Rosie's pancakes. Maybe you're just passing through Truckee. Maybe you're looking for something new. If so, here are a few other suggestions of tried-and-true breakfast spots I frequent often when I'm up at the lake:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tahoe-house.com/\">Tahoe House Bakery\u003c/a>: Okay, so it's not technically a breakfast spot--this is definitely more of a bakery. But they do a mean, strong Americano and really lovely pastries. I always get a few raspberry pockets for later in the afternoon, a homemade granola bar for breakfast the next morning, and my morning treat of choice remains the Swiss chocolate croissant. They also have a nice selection of take-out picnic items. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/the-old-post-office-cafe-carnelian-bay\">The Old Post Office Cafe\u003c/a>: A charming former post office converted into one heck of a busy breakfast spot. Really good coffee, probable waits on the weekends, great build-your-own scrambles and biscuits and gravy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.10best.com/destinations/nevada/tahoe/tahoe-city/restaurants/fire-sign-cafe/\">Fire Sign Cafe\u003c/a>: It's been around since the 1970s and in the summer the wait can be pretty long, but it's worth it. I absolutely love their buckwheat pancakes and the salmon omelet. Order the coffeecake of the day and share it with your tablemates (the fresh blueberry is incredible).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.squeezein.com/\">Squeeze In\u003c/a>: Ah, Truckee. Quaint Victorian houses, surprisingly good restaurants, fun antiques...and a really fine breakfast. Squeeze In is known for their omelets: last time I was there I believe they had 58 to choose from. This makes for a bit of indecision so have one of their strong Bloody Mary's to loosen up first. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Megan Gordon reviews \u003cem>Rosie's Cafe\u003c/em>, one of her favorite breakfast spots in Tahoe City. In addition, she also gives a list of other standout restaurants and cafes for late, lazy vacation breakfasts. ",
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"description": "Megan Gordon reviews Rosie's Cafe, one of her favorite breakfast spots in Tahoe City. In addition, she also gives a list of other standout restaurants and cafes for late, lazy vacation breakfasts. ",
"title": "Breakfast in Lake Tahoe | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/IMG_5134.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/IMG_5134.jpg\" alt=\"Rosie's\" title=\"Rosie's\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14923\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Rosie's Cafe, a Tahoe City institution\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lake Tahoe is, for many a Bay Area resident, a beloved vacation spot. A mere few hours in the car and you trade the traffic (kind of) and gridlock of day to day life for clean air, endless trees, the sound of boat motors in the distance, and an inviting (albeit rather cold) crystal blue lake. My family's been coming up to Lake Tahoe ever since I was three years old. We have a modest cabin on the North Shore where, growing up, my sisters and I and made \u003ca href=\"http://www.logcabinbreakfast.com/\">Log Cabin Ice Cream\u003c/a>, Kings Beach, the Mini Golf Course and 7-11 (best slurpee in town) our home throughout the summer months. Today, my sisters and I are grown adults and rarely all get up there at the same time. The house has been renovated recently and is much less modest. And of course, our priorities have changed. No longer do we jump at the chance to go mini-golfing or score a cone of blue bubblegum ice cream. Nowadays, there is a lot of beach lounging, novel reading, hiking, and late breakfasts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last weekend, I drove up to the cabin to spend some time with my dad. We barbecued, took the boat out, did a lot of dock-sitting, and went to breakfast. As the years have passed, our favorite breakfast spots change and revolve like new gym shoes. But the current favorite (for the last few years now) is \u003ca href=\"http://www.rosiescafe.com/\">Rosie's\u003c/a> in Tahoe City. I was actually first introduced to Rosie's by a few of my students when I was teaching college composition in--of all places--Boston. I'd assigned an essay where students were asked to write about the one place they felt truly at home. Two students wrote about Rosie's: a breakfast spot all the way across the country that their family had been going to since they were little. It turns out Rosie's was a mere fifteen minute drive from my family's cabin and I'd never even been. How could this be? I asked each student to elaborate: what was so great? What's your favorite thing to order? The resounding answers to the latter were the pancakes: the fluffiest they'd ever had. Hands down. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So next time I was up at the cabin, over a year later, I was training for a marathon. After a grueling 18-mile run, I came back starving and suggested we all head out for breakfast. Rosie's popped into my mind. And because I'd run for virtually three hours that morning, I ordered two breakfasts. I haven't looked back since. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My students were right. The pancakes basically rock. Rosie's specializes in Swedish Oatmeal Pancakes topped with applesauce, imported lingonberries and sour cream. They also do very traditional buttermilk pancakes. While you may be tempted to go the Swedish route (as was I), I'm here to advise you to go traditional this time around. I found the Swedish pancakes to be quite flat, a bit soggy, and rather flavorless. They're a little too gloppy for their own good. But the buttermilk pancakes are another tale altogether: they're uber-light and fluffy yet substantial enough to hold large pats of butter and long pours of syrup. If you're coming to Rosie's for the first time and you're a pancake person, this is your order. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, if you tend more towards the egg side of life, the Green Eggs and Ham is one of my favorites. It's a scramble with spinach, avocado, green onions and jack cheese served with a side of ham. Everything's in proportion, there's not too much cheese and the eggs are cooked perfectly (often my complaint with scrambles). The Eggs Benecado is another favorite: a benedict with an english muffin, sliced tomato, guacamole, and poached eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/IMG_5132.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/IMG_5132.jpg\" alt=\"Eggs Benecado\" title=\"Eggs Benecado\" width=\"500\" height=\"351\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14925\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Eggs Benecado at Rosie's Cafe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> I always order the Florentine sauce on the side; they can be a little heavy-handed here. And last, the Breakfast Burrito. I wasn't the one to order a breakfast burrito because, well, I usually hate them. I find that they're rarely hot all the way though and often the eggs can be a little runny. But my dad loves the Breakfast Burrito at Rosie's and he's made me an almost-convert. I'll admit it: it's good. Really good. There's really nothing that remarkable about the ingredients. We're talking eggs, beans, bacon, chives, and cheese. But it's thoughtfully put together and cooked perfectly. Those things are important when we're talking about a big jumble of breakfast ingredients. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And a review of Rosie's wouldn't be complete without a mention of the Chicken Fried Steak. Again, this has never been my first choice but my sister swears by it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/IMG_5129.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/IMG_5129.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken Fried Steak\" title=\"Chicken Fried Steak\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14926\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chicken Fried Steak at Rosie's Cafe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a stick-to-your-ribs breakfast and according to our neighbors on the lake, this is the locals spot for chicken fried steak. With traditional country gravy, fluffy eggs, and crispy hashbrowns--this has been a faithful hangover breakfast in my family in the case that the previous night got a little too raucous. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, thanks to my students who wrote essays on Rosie's. Thanks to the owners who have maintained the likeable vintage decor (everything from antique bikes and ski equipment to elk horn chandeliers) since they purchased it in 1989, and thanks to the bad diner coffee and good dependable food--we return each year. It's come to signify mornings when all of us are, miraculously, together at the same table up at the lake. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.rosiescafe.com/index.html\">Rosie's Cafe\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n571 North Lake Boulevard \u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Rosie%27s+near+Lake+Tahoe,+Carson+City,+CA&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=44.069599,58.623047&ie=UTF8&hq=Rosie%27s&hnear=Lake+Tahoe&ll=39.196077,-119.761963&spn=1.300526,1.83197&z=9&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTahoe City, CA 96145\u003cbr>\n(530) 583-8504\u003cbr>\nHours: Open daily, 7:30am-9pm (although the bar will stay open later if there are folks drinking)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Other Favorite Breakfast Spots Around the Lake\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMaybe you've had one too many Rosie's pancakes. Maybe you're just passing through Truckee. Maybe you're looking for something new. If so, here are a few other suggestions of tried-and-true breakfast spots I frequent often when I'm up at the lake:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tahoe-house.com/\">Tahoe House Bakery\u003c/a>: Okay, so it's not technically a breakfast spot--this is definitely more of a bakery. But they do a mean, strong Americano and really lovely pastries. I always get a few raspberry pockets for later in the afternoon, a homemade granola bar for breakfast the next morning, and my morning treat of choice remains the Swiss chocolate croissant. They also have a nice selection of take-out picnic items. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/the-old-post-office-cafe-carnelian-bay\">The Old Post Office Cafe\u003c/a>: A charming former post office converted into one heck of a busy breakfast spot. Really good coffee, probable waits on the weekends, great build-your-own scrambles and biscuits and gravy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.10best.com/destinations/nevada/tahoe/tahoe-city/restaurants/fire-sign-cafe/\">Fire Sign Cafe\u003c/a>: It's been around since the 1970s and in the summer the wait can be pretty long, but it's worth it. I absolutely love their buckwheat pancakes and the salmon omelet. Order the coffeecake of the day and share it with your tablemates (the fresh blueberry is incredible).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.squeezein.com/\">Squeeze In\u003c/a>: Ah, Truckee. Quaint Victorian houses, surprisingly good restaurants, fun antiques...and a really fine breakfast. Squeeze In is known for their omelets: last time I was there I believe they had 58 to choose from. This makes for a bit of indecision so have one of their strong Bloody Mary's to loosen up first. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Scene in Season: Farmers' Markets From Kentucky to California",
"title": "The Scene in Season: Farmers' Markets From Kentucky to California",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/twingirlsfarmfruit.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/twingirlsfarmfruit.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\" twin girls farms fruit at noe valley\" width=\"500\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-14737\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Twin Girls Farms' fruit at Noe Valley Farmers' Market\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whenever possible, I shop at farmers' markets for my groceries, buying braising greens, fresh eggs, and unpasteurized pomegranate juice at Alemany, and when I can stand to brave the scene, meat from the amazing \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinsunfarms.com/\">Marin Sun Farms\u003c/a>' stand at the Ferry Building. I don't get most of my groceries at farmers' markets; over the course of a week, convenience and immediate needs demand visits to reputable brick-and-mortar stores. While trips to my favorite markets help keep the fridge stocked, I value the experience more than anything, the routine of getting up early, before my Saturday morning basketball game, and dashing off into the prickly mist to fill empty bags, or venturing over directly after basketball, sweaty, tired, and profoundly hungry, at dire risk of over-spending in shopping for food before lunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I'm back home in Kentucky to visit family, I stop by the Saturday morning farmers' market near our house in Louisville’s Highlands neighborhood. Situated in the parking lot of a Presbyterian church on Bardstown Road (\"food for the soul,\" the church’s sign reads), this market is a pint-sized affair -- a bit bigger than \u003ca href=\"http://www.noevalleyfarmersmarket.com/\">Noe Valley’s\u003c/a>. I go there to buy dinner fixings -- and re-visit the scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heading to the local market is a swift, visceral way of getting back in touch with the place you come from. This weekend, I wasn't buying much -- just a few ears of bi-color corn and a bunch of gnarled, stubby dark-orange carrots for a pot of soup -- but I took home more than groceries. At the market, I saw faces I recognized, not people I once knew, but features and voices I recalled from schools I'd attended, the swimming pool I'd frequented, and stores at which I had shopped. I wasn't not seeing people I’d once known, but perhaps their relatives, the next generations, raised in the same place by people staying put, laying down roots. I’m not making a bad joke about inbreeding, just noting that in smaller ponds, you see the same fish (and their offspring) more often. On Saturday, I overheard conversations as I strolled from stall to stall. Over packages of grass-fed beef, two women discussed the summers they were enjoying. \"Haven’t been going to Lakeside much,\" one said, referring to the massive, quarry rock-lined swimming pool I used to visit nearly daily for bare-footed basketball and long, skin-puckering soaks each summer. “Oh no,” said the other. “It’s been too hot.” And hot it was, even at nine in the morning -- the air heavy with the sort of dense, enveloping heat that dampens your shirt before you can make it down the front steps. Here, such heat calls for a day spent indoors, with the air conditioning working overtime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Farmers’ markets reflect communities. It’s a cliche, yes, but it bears out -- in the same way a concert defines a band not just by its music, and its identity expressed through performance, but by the people coming to the show. Mission Bay’s tiny \u003ca href=\"http://www.pcfma.com/market_home.php?market_id=66\">farmers’ market\u003c/a> caters to UCSF researchers looking for a break on one of the sunny benches dotting the well-manicured quad. I wonder how many people actually buy groceries there. Noe Valley’s farmers’ market sustains the precious strip’s residents, and entertains interlopers like myself. On a recent visit, we saw adorable gray-haired ladies ordering up pricey steaks \"for one\" and a yoga pants-wearing mom swish by \u003ca href=\"http://www.sukhis.com/\">Sukhi's\u003c/a> samosa stand to issue an unsolicited zinger: \"I love Indian food, but it hates my waistline.\" It was one of our favorite all-time farmers’ market moments -- along with the guy at Alemany who claimed to play classical music for the benefit of his tomato plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether I’m in Louisville or San Francisco, forays to the market are about people as much as produce, an opportunity to take stock of the swirling community. In this way, they’re all the same -- regardless of what’s in season.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/twingirlsfarmfruit.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/twingirlsfarmfruit.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\" twin girls farms fruit at noe valley\" width=\"500\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-14737\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Twin Girls Farms' fruit at Noe Valley Farmers' Market\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whenever possible, I shop at farmers' markets for my groceries, buying braising greens, fresh eggs, and unpasteurized pomegranate juice at Alemany, and when I can stand to brave the scene, meat from the amazing \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinsunfarms.com/\">Marin Sun Farms\u003c/a>' stand at the Ferry Building. I don't get most of my groceries at farmers' markets; over the course of a week, convenience and immediate needs demand visits to reputable brick-and-mortar stores. While trips to my favorite markets help keep the fridge stocked, I value the experience more than anything, the routine of getting up early, before my Saturday morning basketball game, and dashing off into the prickly mist to fill empty bags, or venturing over directly after basketball, sweaty, tired, and profoundly hungry, at dire risk of over-spending in shopping for food before lunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I'm back home in Kentucky to visit family, I stop by the Saturday morning farmers' market near our house in Louisville’s Highlands neighborhood. Situated in the parking lot of a Presbyterian church on Bardstown Road (\"food for the soul,\" the church’s sign reads), this market is a pint-sized affair -- a bit bigger than \u003ca href=\"http://www.noevalleyfarmersmarket.com/\">Noe Valley’s\u003c/a>. I go there to buy dinner fixings -- and re-visit the scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heading to the local market is a swift, visceral way of getting back in touch with the place you come from. This weekend, I wasn't buying much -- just a few ears of bi-color corn and a bunch of gnarled, stubby dark-orange carrots for a pot of soup -- but I took home more than groceries. At the market, I saw faces I recognized, not people I once knew, but features and voices I recalled from schools I'd attended, the swimming pool I'd frequented, and stores at which I had shopped. I wasn't not seeing people I’d once known, but perhaps their relatives, the next generations, raised in the same place by people staying put, laying down roots. I’m not making a bad joke about inbreeding, just noting that in smaller ponds, you see the same fish (and their offspring) more often. On Saturday, I overheard conversations as I strolled from stall to stall. Over packages of grass-fed beef, two women discussed the summers they were enjoying. \"Haven’t been going to Lakeside much,\" one said, referring to the massive, quarry rock-lined swimming pool I used to visit nearly daily for bare-footed basketball and long, skin-puckering soaks each summer. “Oh no,” said the other. “It’s been too hot.” And hot it was, even at nine in the morning -- the air heavy with the sort of dense, enveloping heat that dampens your shirt before you can make it down the front steps. Here, such heat calls for a day spent indoors, with the air conditioning working overtime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Farmers’ markets reflect communities. It’s a cliche, yes, but it bears out -- in the same way a concert defines a band not just by its music, and its identity expressed through performance, but by the people coming to the show. Mission Bay’s tiny \u003ca href=\"http://www.pcfma.com/market_home.php?market_id=66\">farmers’ market\u003c/a> caters to UCSF researchers looking for a break on one of the sunny benches dotting the well-manicured quad. I wonder how many people actually buy groceries there. Noe Valley’s farmers’ market sustains the precious strip’s residents, and entertains interlopers like myself. On a recent visit, we saw adorable gray-haired ladies ordering up pricey steaks \"for one\" and a yoga pants-wearing mom swish by \u003ca href=\"http://www.sukhis.com/\">Sukhi's\u003c/a> samosa stand to issue an unsolicited zinger: \"I love Indian food, but it hates my waistline.\" It was one of our favorite all-time farmers’ market moments -- along with the guy at Alemany who claimed to play classical music for the benefit of his tomato plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/header.jpg\" alt=\"dumpling baskets\" title=\"dumpling baskets\" width=\"500\" height=\"400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Taking a break after the steamed bun lunch rush\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you may have read last week, I recently returned from China where I spent five days in Shanghai and a hot minute in Hong Kong (two days). While there, we visited the \u003ca href=\"http://en.expo2010.cn/\">World Expo,\u003c/a> did a lot of sightseeing, a bit of shopping, and lots of eating. In particular, lots of dumplings. Last week, I wrote a post about eating out in Shanghai and Hong Kong, but I omitted a major discussion of our dumpling forays because they really deserve their own post. So here we are. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now the first thing to know about Shanghai is that they're famous for their \u003cem>xiao long bao\u003c/em>, or soup dumplings. These dumplings are traditionally steamed in small bamboo baskets, (\"xiaolong\" translates literally to \"small steaming basket\"), and are comprised of a super thin almost translucent skin, rich broth, and savory fillings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-Varied-Dumpling-Locales.jpg\" alt=\" Varied Dumplings\" title=\" Varied Dumplings\" width=\"500\" height=\"307\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14182\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>From the fanciest of restaurants, the most common of market stalls, and even on the go in little cups, Chinese dumplings are where it's at.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Buns vs. Dumplings \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWhen we first arrived in Shanghai, we realized that in the States, we'd just been lumping virtually everything that looked like a dumpling into that category and calling it a day. In reality, there's a distinct difference between buns and dumplings. Steamed buns that are made with raised flour are referred to as \u003cem>baozi\u003c/em> and are typically white, fluffy and \"breadier\" as my sisters would say. Steamed buns that are made with unraised flour such as the xiao long bao have a smoother almost translucent skin and are more commonly seen in the South. Then to confuse things even more, you have the \u003cem>jiaozi\u003c/em>: what most Americans consider a pot sticker but the Chinese consider a true dumpling. Jiaozi consist of a savory filling as well but are wrapped into a thinly rolled piece of dough and crimped and sealed along the edges. So by trial and error and a few ordering missteps, we learned the differences quickly and began trying everything from dessert buns, jiaozi, and many kinds of xioa long bao. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where to Get Your Hands on One (or Ten)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis list is my no means exhaustive nor do I think it's at all a \"Best Of\" list. I just didn’t try enough dumplings to write with that kind of authority (all the more reason to return). But it is a brief tour of what I found to be the best of what I tried. So without further ado, here are the highlights of a few days in China, dumpling style. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fourseasons.com/shanghai/dining/si_ji_xuan.html\">The Four Seasons\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nIt's a little ritzy and probably not the most authentic bun you'll ever have, but we found The Four Seasons made extremely reliable steamed buns filled with a variety of filings including a flavorful pork and onion and a spinach and mushroom. The exterior of the buns was light and fluffy--dangerously so as we found ourselves downing more than our fair share and needing a nap before our next sightseeing stop. For us, the location was convenient (and they also do a mean \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Congee\">congee\u003c/a> that I'll try and replicate at home), and unlike many more causal spots, they offer a wide variety of pickled vegetables, eggs, and vinegars to accompany the buns. So while this isn't a spot where locals congregate and while they're much pricier than street-side buns, it's worth a stop if you're in the mood to treat yourself to a nice, air-conditioned dim sum lunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/4-seasons-pickling.jpg\" alt=\"4 seasons pickles and eggs\" title=\"4 seasons pickles and eggs\" width=\"500\" height=\"316\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14179\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Four Seasons: 500 Weihai Road, Shanghai China 200041; 86 (21) 6256-8888\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dintaifungusa.com/\">Din Tai Fung\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nThe mention of Din Tai Fung elicits a response from tourists and locals alike. It's either an extremely positive one or a heartfelt negative one--rarely did I find an in between. That's because their xiao long bao are the best I've ever had. So what's the problem? A few things: they're located in a rather sterile shopping mall, they're a chain with locations all around Asia and even Southern California, and they actually originated in Taiwan. So for folks coming to China and wanting to try authentic xiao long bao, some look down upon Din Tai Fung because it didn't even start in Shanghai. I have to say, I think this is one of those small facts you should overlook when doing a dumpling tour of the city. You must try these. They are damn fine soup dumplings--extremely addictive with utterly translucent skin, rich broth, and an impressive variety of fillings to choose from. They drape perfectly onto your soup spoon and the attentive wait staff will even show newcomers the best way to eat them (I just pop the whole thing right in my mouth but apparently some people like to suck the soup part out first). If I lived in Shanghai, I'd be a regular. For sure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-tin-dai-fung-dumplings1.jpg\" alt=\"din tai fung dumplings\" title=\"din tai fung dumplings\" width=\"500\" height=\"296\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14187\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Din Tai Fung: South Block Xintiandi|Unit 11, House 6, Ln. 123 Xingye Lu (Huangpi Lu) Shanghai, China\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.heichinrou.com/info_tsq.html\">Heichinrou\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nWe were in Hong Kong less than two days, so we spent most of the time racing to get in some major sightseeing. But I did insist on dumplings, so our family friend who lives right outside of Hong Kong took us to get dim sum at his favorite spot. He chose Heichinrou which is located in a large shopping center right along Causeway Bay. Their menu rotates seasonally and features numerous mostly Cantonese dishes. The place was filled with locals, the staff were jamming out baskets and baskets of steamed buns and jiaozi, bowls of steaming noodles, plates of sliced barbecued pork, and beautiful Chinese vegetables. We tried shrimp jiaozi and mixed mushroom jiaozi along with steamed pork buns (much like pulled pork in a delightfully fluffy dumpling--kind of the perfect food if you ask me). Looking around, many tables were getting stacks of the bamboo baskets, relying strictly on dumplings for their lunchtime meal. And I can see why. They were heavenly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/heichinrou.jpg\" alt=\"heichinrou\" title=\"heichinrou\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14181\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Heichinrou: Shop 1003, 10th Floor, Times Square; 1 Matheson Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong; 852 - 2506 2333\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Few Other Spots:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThere are only so many dumplings a girl can eat, and there were many more I wanted to try. My one regret was not having enough time to eat more street food while in China. Let's just say I wasn't traveling with the most adventurous group and we were pretty darn short on time, so I'm already compiling a list for my next trip. Here are a few casual spots I'd heard about that came highly recommended and that have made my list for the next go-around. If you find yourself in Shanghai anytime soon, I know they're worth a try. Who knows? I may be right there with you in line:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Jia Jia Tang Bao\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThey are supposedly cheaper than Din Tai Fung although the lines can often be so great that they run out before 1 p.m. A locals favorite--I wish I could've carved out the time to sneak over.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>90 Huanghe Lu, near Fengyang Lu in Shanghai; 021-63276878\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n\u003cstrong>Shanghai Ren Jia\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLocals also love this spot, and they have the unique and not nearly as common, Tang Bao, a larger soup dumplings with a thicker skin. Many people think of the skin as more of a vehicle to hold the soup rather than an integral part of the dumpling itself. Most spots serving tang bao give diners a straw with which to suck the soup through.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>1600 Nanjing Lu near Changde Lu (Jing'an Temple Area)\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n\u003cstrong>Yang’s Fried Dumplings:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYang's doesn't have xiao long bao or the more novel tang bao, but everyone seems to know about Yang's. Sixteen years in business, long lines, and dumplings right out of the pan topped with sesame seeds and scallions has earned them bragging rights.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem> 54 Wujiang Lu and 60 Wujiang Lu\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\u003c/ul>\n\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/header.jpg\" alt=\"dumpling baskets\" title=\"dumpling baskets\" width=\"500\" height=\"400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Taking a break after the steamed bun lunch rush\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you may have read last week, I recently returned from China where I spent five days in Shanghai and a hot minute in Hong Kong (two days). While there, we visited the \u003ca href=\"http://en.expo2010.cn/\">World Expo,\u003c/a> did a lot of sightseeing, a bit of shopping, and lots of eating. In particular, lots of dumplings. Last week, I wrote a post about eating out in Shanghai and Hong Kong, but I omitted a major discussion of our dumpling forays because they really deserve their own post. So here we are. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now the first thing to know about Shanghai is that they're famous for their \u003cem>xiao long bao\u003c/em>, or soup dumplings. These dumplings are traditionally steamed in small bamboo baskets, (\"xiaolong\" translates literally to \"small steaming basket\"), and are comprised of a super thin almost translucent skin, rich broth, and savory fillings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-Varied-Dumpling-Locales.jpg\" alt=\" Varied Dumplings\" title=\" Varied Dumplings\" width=\"500\" height=\"307\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14182\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>From the fanciest of restaurants, the most common of market stalls, and even on the go in little cups, Chinese dumplings are where it's at.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Buns vs. Dumplings \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWhen we first arrived in Shanghai, we realized that in the States, we'd just been lumping virtually everything that looked like a dumpling into that category and calling it a day. In reality, there's a distinct difference between buns and dumplings. Steamed buns that are made with raised flour are referred to as \u003cem>baozi\u003c/em> and are typically white, fluffy and \"breadier\" as my sisters would say. Steamed buns that are made with unraised flour such as the xiao long bao have a smoother almost translucent skin and are more commonly seen in the South. Then to confuse things even more, you have the \u003cem>jiaozi\u003c/em>: what most Americans consider a pot sticker but the Chinese consider a true dumpling. Jiaozi consist of a savory filling as well but are wrapped into a thinly rolled piece of dough and crimped and sealed along the edges. So by trial and error and a few ordering missteps, we learned the differences quickly and began trying everything from dessert buns, jiaozi, and many kinds of xioa long bao. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where to Get Your Hands on One (or Ten)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis list is my no means exhaustive nor do I think it's at all a \"Best Of\" list. I just didn’t try enough dumplings to write with that kind of authority (all the more reason to return). But it is a brief tour of what I found to be the best of what I tried. So without further ado, here are the highlights of a few days in China, dumpling style. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fourseasons.com/shanghai/dining/si_ji_xuan.html\">The Four Seasons\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nIt's a little ritzy and probably not the most authentic bun you'll ever have, but we found The Four Seasons made extremely reliable steamed buns filled with a variety of filings including a flavorful pork and onion and a spinach and mushroom. The exterior of the buns was light and fluffy--dangerously so as we found ourselves downing more than our fair share and needing a nap before our next sightseeing stop. For us, the location was convenient (and they also do a mean \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Congee\">congee\u003c/a> that I'll try and replicate at home), and unlike many more causal spots, they offer a wide variety of pickled vegetables, eggs, and vinegars to accompany the buns. So while this isn't a spot where locals congregate and while they're much pricier than street-side buns, it's worth a stop if you're in the mood to treat yourself to a nice, air-conditioned dim sum lunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/4-seasons-pickling.jpg\" alt=\"4 seasons pickles and eggs\" title=\"4 seasons pickles and eggs\" width=\"500\" height=\"316\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14179\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Four Seasons: 500 Weihai Road, Shanghai China 200041; 86 (21) 6256-8888\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dintaifungusa.com/\">Din Tai Fung\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nThe mention of Din Tai Fung elicits a response from tourists and locals alike. It's either an extremely positive one or a heartfelt negative one--rarely did I find an in between. That's because their xiao long bao are the best I've ever had. So what's the problem? A few things: they're located in a rather sterile shopping mall, they're a chain with locations all around Asia and even Southern California, and they actually originated in Taiwan. So for folks coming to China and wanting to try authentic xiao long bao, some look down upon Din Tai Fung because it didn't even start in Shanghai. I have to say, I think this is one of those small facts you should overlook when doing a dumpling tour of the city. You must try these. They are damn fine soup dumplings--extremely addictive with utterly translucent skin, rich broth, and an impressive variety of fillings to choose from. They drape perfectly onto your soup spoon and the attentive wait staff will even show newcomers the best way to eat them (I just pop the whole thing right in my mouth but apparently some people like to suck the soup part out first). If I lived in Shanghai, I'd be a regular. For sure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-tin-dai-fung-dumplings1.jpg\" alt=\"din tai fung dumplings\" title=\"din tai fung dumplings\" width=\"500\" height=\"296\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14187\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Din Tai Fung: South Block Xintiandi|Unit 11, House 6, Ln. 123 Xingye Lu (Huangpi Lu) Shanghai, China\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.heichinrou.com/info_tsq.html\">Heichinrou\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nWe were in Hong Kong less than two days, so we spent most of the time racing to get in some major sightseeing. But I did insist on dumplings, so our family friend who lives right outside of Hong Kong took us to get dim sum at his favorite spot. He chose Heichinrou which is located in a large shopping center right along Causeway Bay. Their menu rotates seasonally and features numerous mostly Cantonese dishes. The place was filled with locals, the staff were jamming out baskets and baskets of steamed buns and jiaozi, bowls of steaming noodles, plates of sliced barbecued pork, and beautiful Chinese vegetables. We tried shrimp jiaozi and mixed mushroom jiaozi along with steamed pork buns (much like pulled pork in a delightfully fluffy dumpling--kind of the perfect food if you ask me). Looking around, many tables were getting stacks of the bamboo baskets, relying strictly on dumplings for their lunchtime meal. And I can see why. They were heavenly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/heichinrou.jpg\" alt=\"heichinrou\" title=\"heichinrou\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14181\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Heichinrou: Shop 1003, 10th Floor, Times Square; 1 Matheson Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong; 852 - 2506 2333\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Few Other Spots:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThere are only so many dumplings a girl can eat, and there were many more I wanted to try. My one regret was not having enough time to eat more street food while in China. Let's just say I wasn't traveling with the most adventurous group and we were pretty darn short on time, so I'm already compiling a list for my next trip. Here are a few casual spots I'd heard about that came highly recommended and that have made my list for the next go-around. If you find yourself in Shanghai anytime soon, I know they're worth a try. Who knows? I may be right there with you in line:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Jia Jia Tang Bao\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThey are supposedly cheaper than Din Tai Fung although the lines can often be so great that they run out before 1 p.m. A locals favorite--I wish I could've carved out the time to sneak over.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>90 Huanghe Lu, near Fengyang Lu in Shanghai; 021-63276878\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n\u003cstrong>Shanghai Ren Jia\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLocals also love this spot, and they have the unique and not nearly as common, Tang Bao, a larger soup dumplings with a thicker skin. Many people think of the skin as more of a vehicle to hold the soup rather than an integral part of the dumpling itself. Most spots serving tang bao give diners a straw with which to suck the soup through.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>1600 Nanjing Lu near Changde Lu (Jing'an Temple Area)\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\n\u003cstrong>Yang’s Fried Dumplings:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYang's doesn't have xiao long bao or the more novel tang bao, but everyone seems to know about Yang's. Sixteen years in business, long lines, and dumplings right out of the pan topped with sesame seeds and scallions has earned them bragging rights.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem> 54 Wujiang Lu and 60 Wujiang Lu\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\u003c/ul>\n\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Eating in China: A Whirlwind Trip",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/IMG_4722.jpg\" alt=\"dumplings\" title=\"dumplings\" width=\"500\" height=\"339\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14209\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm one of those travelers who loves to get to know a place based on its neighborhoods and food, but I realize not everyone's this way. So during our first few days in Shanghai, I capitalized on my family's jetlag and unfamiliarity with the city and--relying on friend's recommendations and a little research--dragged them around on many a food adventure. Over the next six days we tasted everything from steamed buns to dragon fruit, and visited markets, noodle stands and higher-end restaurants. This is far from an exhaustive list. Instead, it's simply where we found ourselves eating, lounging, and drinking: a whirlwind visual tour in case you ever find yourself in Shanghai or Hong Kong with no clue where to eat. We did a little footwork for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SHANGHAI\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Food Market\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe Chinese don't eat dessert nearly as often as we do in the States. Many folks do tea after meals or a bit of fruit, but routine desserts aren't as common. However, sweet snacks are a different story altogether and markets or street-side stands stock sweet buns or dumplings. At the Food Market on Nanjing Road in Shanghai, my sister and I noticed locals lining up for a late lunch of simple noodles and dumplings, sweet snacks, whole roasted ducks, or breads and baked goods to carry out. Some of the most popular sweets were the red bean paste dumplings, black sesame dumplings, and small rice pudding patties topped with candied fruits. I absolutely loved both sweet dumplings, and found their relatively dainty size and subtle sweetness truly satisfying. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-1-sweet-bun.jpg\" alt=\" sweet buns\" title=\" sweet buns\" width=\"500\" height=\"461\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14200\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-1-market.jpg\" alt=\"food market\" title=\"food market\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14199\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wang Jia Sha, 805 Nanjing Road, Shanghai, China\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nM on the Bund\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis is, by far, my favorite restaurant in Shanghai. While not the most inexpensive choice, I've never been to a place with such energy and excitement while still maintaining an utterly unpretentious and gracious vibe. Voted “One of the Top 20 restaurants in Asia” last year by the Miele Guide and “The Most Popular Restaurant in Shanghai” by Zagat two years back, \u003ca href=\"http://www.m-restaurantgroup.com/mbund/home.html\">M on the Bund\u003c/a> is located in the historic 1921 \u003ca href=\"http://www.chinese-architecture.info/BUND/SH-BU-004.htm\">Nissin Shipping Building\u003c/a>, and overlooks \u003ca href=\"http://www.chinahighlights.com/shanghai/attraction/the-bund.htm\">The Bund\u003c/a>, Shanghai’s most famous waterfront destination. The food's a bit tough to pin down: the flavors range from Middle Eastern to Mod Euro, but ultimately come off as really thoughtful, tasty, comforting food. You won't find fancy foam or precious portions. Instead, there are strong cocktails, beautiful salads, perfectly cooked steak and seafood, and beautiful Moroccan vegetarian fare. The roof terrace is vast; diners are seated outside overlooking the water and the teeming nightlife and energy of the Bund, but folks also bring their cocktails out and linger while waiting for their meals. It's all very romantic and intoxicating and almost otherworldly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-1-m-on-the-bund.jpg\" alt=\" m on the bund\" title=\" m on the bund\" width=\"500\" height=\"296\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14201\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>7/F, No.5 The Bund ( corner of Guangdong Lu )\u003cbr>\nShanghai 200002 China\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>T8\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.t8shanghai.com/\">T8\u003c/a> has a few kinks to work out with their service and this is another spot where the food is quite pricey, but the atmosphere is beautiful and it’s located in the Xintiandi area, known for food, fashion, and nightlife and perfect for an evening stroll or grabbing a post-dinner cocktail. There is a part of me that thinks T8 takes themselves a bit too seriously, showcasing your bottle of water like it's a fine champagne and crafting teeny, artistic appetizers. However, there's another part of me that loves the candlelit atmosphere with lanterns and bamboo furnishings, a bustling open kitchen and stunning floral arrangements. They bring out incredible warm bread baked in individual popover pans--I liked that, and the entrees were solid. T8 specializes in more contemporary, seasonal European dishes with Asian accents. From the cod with Chinese vegetables to the Wagyu beef burger and sensational fries, it was a nice treat after a long day of sightseeing. Skip the starters and appetizers, go straight to the entrees, and enjoy the atmosphere.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-1-t81.jpg\" alt=\" t8\" title=\" t8\" width=\"500\" height=\"296\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14215\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>No. 8 Xintiandi North Part Lane 181 Tai Cang Road\u003cbr>\nShanghai 200021 China\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kommune\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/people/Kommune-Kafe/729618780#!/profile.php?id=729618780\">Kommune\u003c/a> is the kind of place you'd adopt as your own if you lived in Shanghai. And sure enough, we saw many an expat, quite a few students, and a noticeably large Australian population congregated on the outdoor patio eating sandwiches, salads, fresh juices, pastas, simple entrees, and house baked cookies. Located on Taikang Lu, a bustling artist's enclave peppered with galleries, interesting shops, and numerous cafes and wine bars, this is one likeable joint. Do know that their portions are huge: the incredibly fresh Greek salad was enough for three, and the milkshakes could easily be shared with a few friends. I loved this place. It was a welcome respite from the bustling dim sum lunch joints we’d been frequenting. You can relax here, wasting away an entire afternoon drinking fresh juices or lattes (voted the best in Shanghai) while people-watching or making new international friends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-1-Kommune.jpg\" alt=\"Kommune\" title=\"Kommune\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14204\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Yard, No. 7, 210 Taikang Road\u003cbr>\nShanghai, 200025, China\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yuyuan Gardens\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/shanghai/yuyuan_garden.htm\">The Yuyuan Gardens\u003c/a> are one of those tourist attractions that you really should do while in Shanghai. They're also one of those things that, once you've seen it once, I'm not certain you need to brave the crowds and go again. Because there \u003cem>are\u003c/em> some major crowds. In short, the gardens are an example of classical Chinese gardens and architecture. Surrounding the gardens are streets jammed with little tourist shops, candy stalls, and tea sellers. I admit it: this may have been my favorite part of the sightseeing venture. We obviously didn't really know much about the various candies, but we just chose some randomly. Their gummy candies are less sweet than the ones here in the States and they do nice sesame brittles and little pre-packaged egg pies with a variety of jammy fillings. Fun and kitschy if nothing else. Oh, and did I mention there's a Dairy Queen? Sometimes nothing tastes better than a blizzard. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-1-yuyuan-gardens-.jpg\" alt=\" yuyuan gardens\" title=\" yuyuan gardens\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14205\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>In between Fuyou Lu and Middle Fangbang Lu\u003cbr>\nShanghai, China\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Street vendors\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWhile in China, try some of the fruit that may be unfamiliar to you, including wax fruit and dragon fruit (not pictured here). Although some of our travel guides warned against buying fruit off the street, it's fine. Wash it and you're good to go. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-1-street-fruit.jpg\" alt=\"street fruit\" title=\"street fruit\" width=\"500\" height=\"296\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14208\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>HONG KONG\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIntercontinental breakfast buffet\u003cbr>\nThere are no words, really. My dad had stayed at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ichotelsgroup.com/intercontinental/en/gb/locations/hongkong\">The Intercontinental\u003c/a> before and had described the breakfast buffet to us as \"mind blowing: literally 60 feet long.\" I wasn’t thrilled. Visions of Vegas swam through my mind. I hate buffets. I also hate Vegas. But this may have been my very favorite part of our first day in Hong Kong. My dad was right: it truly is mind blowing (although I'm not sure it's 60 feet long). They cater to a variety of tourists here, so there are traditional Chinese breakfast items like congee, steamed buns, pickled vegetables and century eggs. There are also Japanese items like steamed eggs and noodles and there is your standard American fare: eggs and bacon, a pastry bar, and a waffle and pancake bar. What was so remarkable was how fresh and beautifully presented everything was. It didn't feel like an obscene all-you-can eat affair. Instead, it felt like you were carefully selecting very special pastries, local fruits, housemade jams, and trying breakfast items that aren't common back home. I'm a big yogurt and granola fan, and they had six different types of honey for your granola, a huge bar of seasonal fruits, ten different types of cereals, a huge variety of fresh jams and different yogurts and kefir. Add to that fresh juices, smoothies, strong coffee and international newspapers--I was a happy camper. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-1-Intercon-brunch.jpg\" alt=\" Intercontinental brunch\" title=\" Intercontinental brunch\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14206\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui\u003cbr>\nHong Kong, 00000 China\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Zuma\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.zumarestaurant.com/zuma_hk.html\">Zuma\u003c/a> is a modern Japanese restaurant with other locations in London, Dubai, and Miami. We came here to celebrate my sister's birthday, so it's definitely more of a special occasion or \"last night in Hong Kong and you want to live it up\" kind of place. They specialize in innovative food and a wide variety of housemade cocktails you won't find elsewhere. The interior is largely granite and glass, reminiscent of a Japanese garden with a large open kitchen, techno music, and warm lighting, and the food was outstanding. It's family style, so you'll want to order quite a few dishes and they bring them out as they're ready. Don't miss the spicy fried tofu, the dragon crab roll, and the house specialty miso black cod wrapped in a hoba leaf. Order dessert, too. My sister and I shared the green tea and banana cake with coconut ice cream, and it was the perfect end to a special meal. Before you leave (or while you're waiting for your meal), spend a little time out on the romantic terrace overlooking downtown.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Landmark Atrium Level 5, 15 Queens Road\u003cbr>\nCentral Hong Kong\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Heichinrou\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.heichinrou.com/info_tsq.html\">Heichinrou\u003c/a> is a very popular dim sum spot in the Times Square Building, a famous shopping center in Hong Kong. It was packed with locals lingering over a long lunch, and after our first bite we understood why. The food was fantastic--probably the best dim sum I had while in China. Don't miss the broccoli with garlic, fried bean curd, shrimp jaozi, or steamed pork buns. And while I know no one in China is looking to get famous off of fried rice, I loved the pork-fried rice at Heichinrou. It had little bits of pork, fried egg and green onion and came in sweet ceramic cups. Load up on Jasmine tea and get ready for your next adventure. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-1-Heichinrou.jpg\" alt=\" Heichinrou\" title=\" Heichinrou\" width=\"500\" height=\"296\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14207\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Shop 1003, 10th Floor Times Square; 1 Matheson Street\u003cbr>\nCauseway Bay, Hong Kong\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sabatini\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI'm recommending \u003ca href=\"http://www.rghk.com.hk/dining_sabatini.html\">Sabatini\u003c/a> to you because it's so utterly odd I wouldn't want you to miss it--and, of course, the food is great. It's in The Royal Garden Hotel, and they actually have pseudo-table side Mariachi music…yes, in an Italian restaurant in the middle of Hong Kong. It’s strange but it kind of works somehow. Given that most of the diners were tourists and business clientele, they know pretty much any English song you throw at them (although I will say they weren’t familiar with Lady Gaga). Sabatini's food is your classic Italian fare, with a nice seafood and pasta menu and a lovely antipasto bar. The original Sabtini opened in Rome in 1952, and this is one of two other locations. There's only so many dumplings and barbecued pork a person can eat, so when you find yourself in Hong Kong and need a break, sometimes a big plate of pasta is just the thing. Sabatini does that well.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>69 Mody Road, Tsimshatsui East\u003cbr>\n Kowloon, Hong Kong\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Stands at Temple Street\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAh, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temple_Street,_Hong_Kong\">Temple Street\u003c/a>. This is the nighttime market hawking fake watches, handbags, and an odd collection of other items like batteries, fans, socks, baseball caps and the like. I think it's worthwhile to take a quick turn just to see it, and before you go, hit up one of the fruit stands at the far end by the food area. Here you can get a variety of local fruit juices and coconut waters. Nothing tastes better after slugging through the crowded, steamy market. Try both the young coconut and regular coconut--young coconut tends to be smaller and sweeter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All in all, our trip was far too brief but we managed to pack it in, food-wise. I loved the variety, the spice, the unexpected cosmopolitan nature of many of the restaurants, and the graciousness of the chefs and waitstaff. I'm already compiling a list for a future trip when, perhaps, we can pack in more than a mere six days.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/IMG_4722.jpg\" alt=\"dumplings\" title=\"dumplings\" width=\"500\" height=\"339\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14209\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm one of those travelers who loves to get to know a place based on its neighborhoods and food, but I realize not everyone's this way. So during our first few days in Shanghai, I capitalized on my family's jetlag and unfamiliarity with the city and--relying on friend's recommendations and a little research--dragged them around on many a food adventure. Over the next six days we tasted everything from steamed buns to dragon fruit, and visited markets, noodle stands and higher-end restaurants. This is far from an exhaustive list. Instead, it's simply where we found ourselves eating, lounging, and drinking: a whirlwind visual tour in case you ever find yourself in Shanghai or Hong Kong with no clue where to eat. We did a little footwork for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SHANGHAI\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Food Market\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe Chinese don't eat dessert nearly as often as we do in the States. Many folks do tea after meals or a bit of fruit, but routine desserts aren't as common. However, sweet snacks are a different story altogether and markets or street-side stands stock sweet buns or dumplings. At the Food Market on Nanjing Road in Shanghai, my sister and I noticed locals lining up for a late lunch of simple noodles and dumplings, sweet snacks, whole roasted ducks, or breads and baked goods to carry out. Some of the most popular sweets were the red bean paste dumplings, black sesame dumplings, and small rice pudding patties topped with candied fruits. I absolutely loved both sweet dumplings, and found their relatively dainty size and subtle sweetness truly satisfying. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-1-sweet-bun.jpg\" alt=\" sweet buns\" title=\" sweet buns\" width=\"500\" height=\"461\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14200\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-1-market.jpg\" alt=\"food market\" title=\"food market\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14199\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wang Jia Sha, 805 Nanjing Road, Shanghai, China\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nM on the Bund\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis is, by far, my favorite restaurant in Shanghai. While not the most inexpensive choice, I've never been to a place with such energy and excitement while still maintaining an utterly unpretentious and gracious vibe. Voted “One of the Top 20 restaurants in Asia” last year by the Miele Guide and “The Most Popular Restaurant in Shanghai” by Zagat two years back, \u003ca href=\"http://www.m-restaurantgroup.com/mbund/home.html\">M on the Bund\u003c/a> is located in the historic 1921 \u003ca href=\"http://www.chinese-architecture.info/BUND/SH-BU-004.htm\">Nissin Shipping Building\u003c/a>, and overlooks \u003ca href=\"http://www.chinahighlights.com/shanghai/attraction/the-bund.htm\">The Bund\u003c/a>, Shanghai’s most famous waterfront destination. The food's a bit tough to pin down: the flavors range from Middle Eastern to Mod Euro, but ultimately come off as really thoughtful, tasty, comforting food. You won't find fancy foam or precious portions. Instead, there are strong cocktails, beautiful salads, perfectly cooked steak and seafood, and beautiful Moroccan vegetarian fare. The roof terrace is vast; diners are seated outside overlooking the water and the teeming nightlife and energy of the Bund, but folks also bring their cocktails out and linger while waiting for their meals. It's all very romantic and intoxicating and almost otherworldly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-1-m-on-the-bund.jpg\" alt=\" m on the bund\" title=\" m on the bund\" width=\"500\" height=\"296\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14201\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>7/F, No.5 The Bund ( corner of Guangdong Lu )\u003cbr>\nShanghai 200002 China\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>T8\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.t8shanghai.com/\">T8\u003c/a> has a few kinks to work out with their service and this is another spot where the food is quite pricey, but the atmosphere is beautiful and it’s located in the Xintiandi area, known for food, fashion, and nightlife and perfect for an evening stroll or grabbing a post-dinner cocktail. There is a part of me that thinks T8 takes themselves a bit too seriously, showcasing your bottle of water like it's a fine champagne and crafting teeny, artistic appetizers. However, there's another part of me that loves the candlelit atmosphere with lanterns and bamboo furnishings, a bustling open kitchen and stunning floral arrangements. They bring out incredible warm bread baked in individual popover pans--I liked that, and the entrees were solid. T8 specializes in more contemporary, seasonal European dishes with Asian accents. From the cod with Chinese vegetables to the Wagyu beef burger and sensational fries, it was a nice treat after a long day of sightseeing. Skip the starters and appetizers, go straight to the entrees, and enjoy the atmosphere.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-1-t81.jpg\" alt=\" t8\" title=\" t8\" width=\"500\" height=\"296\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14215\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>No. 8 Xintiandi North Part Lane 181 Tai Cang Road\u003cbr>\nShanghai 200021 China\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kommune\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/people/Kommune-Kafe/729618780#!/profile.php?id=729618780\">Kommune\u003c/a> is the kind of place you'd adopt as your own if you lived in Shanghai. And sure enough, we saw many an expat, quite a few students, and a noticeably large Australian population congregated on the outdoor patio eating sandwiches, salads, fresh juices, pastas, simple entrees, and house baked cookies. Located on Taikang Lu, a bustling artist's enclave peppered with galleries, interesting shops, and numerous cafes and wine bars, this is one likeable joint. Do know that their portions are huge: the incredibly fresh Greek salad was enough for three, and the milkshakes could easily be shared with a few friends. I loved this place. It was a welcome respite from the bustling dim sum lunch joints we’d been frequenting. You can relax here, wasting away an entire afternoon drinking fresh juices or lattes (voted the best in Shanghai) while people-watching or making new international friends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-1-Kommune.jpg\" alt=\"Kommune\" title=\"Kommune\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14204\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Yard, No. 7, 210 Taikang Road\u003cbr>\nShanghai, 200025, China\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yuyuan Gardens\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/shanghai/yuyuan_garden.htm\">The Yuyuan Gardens\u003c/a> are one of those tourist attractions that you really should do while in Shanghai. They're also one of those things that, once you've seen it once, I'm not certain you need to brave the crowds and go again. Because there \u003cem>are\u003c/em> some major crowds. In short, the gardens are an example of classical Chinese gardens and architecture. Surrounding the gardens are streets jammed with little tourist shops, candy stalls, and tea sellers. I admit it: this may have been my favorite part of the sightseeing venture. We obviously didn't really know much about the various candies, but we just chose some randomly. Their gummy candies are less sweet than the ones here in the States and they do nice sesame brittles and little pre-packaged egg pies with a variety of jammy fillings. Fun and kitschy if nothing else. Oh, and did I mention there's a Dairy Queen? Sometimes nothing tastes better than a blizzard. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-1-yuyuan-gardens-.jpg\" alt=\" yuyuan gardens\" title=\" yuyuan gardens\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14205\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>In between Fuyou Lu and Middle Fangbang Lu\u003cbr>\nShanghai, China\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Street vendors\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWhile in China, try some of the fruit that may be unfamiliar to you, including wax fruit and dragon fruit (not pictured here). Although some of our travel guides warned against buying fruit off the street, it's fine. Wash it and you're good to go. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-1-street-fruit.jpg\" alt=\"street fruit\" title=\"street fruit\" width=\"500\" height=\"296\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14208\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>HONG KONG\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIntercontinental breakfast buffet\u003cbr>\nThere are no words, really. My dad had stayed at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ichotelsgroup.com/intercontinental/en/gb/locations/hongkong\">The Intercontinental\u003c/a> before and had described the breakfast buffet to us as \"mind blowing: literally 60 feet long.\" I wasn’t thrilled. Visions of Vegas swam through my mind. I hate buffets. I also hate Vegas. But this may have been my very favorite part of our first day in Hong Kong. My dad was right: it truly is mind blowing (although I'm not sure it's 60 feet long). They cater to a variety of tourists here, so there are traditional Chinese breakfast items like congee, steamed buns, pickled vegetables and century eggs. There are also Japanese items like steamed eggs and noodles and there is your standard American fare: eggs and bacon, a pastry bar, and a waffle and pancake bar. What was so remarkable was how fresh and beautifully presented everything was. It didn't feel like an obscene all-you-can eat affair. Instead, it felt like you were carefully selecting very special pastries, local fruits, housemade jams, and trying breakfast items that aren't common back home. I'm a big yogurt and granola fan, and they had six different types of honey for your granola, a huge bar of seasonal fruits, ten different types of cereals, a huge variety of fresh jams and different yogurts and kefir. Add to that fresh juices, smoothies, strong coffee and international newspapers--I was a happy camper. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-1-Intercon-brunch.jpg\" alt=\" Intercontinental brunch\" title=\" Intercontinental brunch\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14206\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui\u003cbr>\nHong Kong, 00000 China\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Zuma\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.zumarestaurant.com/zuma_hk.html\">Zuma\u003c/a> is a modern Japanese restaurant with other locations in London, Dubai, and Miami. We came here to celebrate my sister's birthday, so it's definitely more of a special occasion or \"last night in Hong Kong and you want to live it up\" kind of place. They specialize in innovative food and a wide variety of housemade cocktails you won't find elsewhere. The interior is largely granite and glass, reminiscent of a Japanese garden with a large open kitchen, techno music, and warm lighting, and the food was outstanding. It's family style, so you'll want to order quite a few dishes and they bring them out as they're ready. Don't miss the spicy fried tofu, the dragon crab roll, and the house specialty miso black cod wrapped in a hoba leaf. Order dessert, too. My sister and I shared the green tea and banana cake with coconut ice cream, and it was the perfect end to a special meal. Before you leave (or while you're waiting for your meal), spend a little time out on the romantic terrace overlooking downtown.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Landmark Atrium Level 5, 15 Queens Road\u003cbr>\nCentral Hong Kong\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Heichinrou\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.heichinrou.com/info_tsq.html\">Heichinrou\u003c/a> is a very popular dim sum spot in the Times Square Building, a famous shopping center in Hong Kong. It was packed with locals lingering over a long lunch, and after our first bite we understood why. The food was fantastic--probably the best dim sum I had while in China. Don't miss the broccoli with garlic, fried bean curd, shrimp jaozi, or steamed pork buns. And while I know no one in China is looking to get famous off of fried rice, I loved the pork-fried rice at Heichinrou. It had little bits of pork, fried egg and green onion and came in sweet ceramic cups. Load up on Jasmine tea and get ready for your next adventure. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/BAB-1-Heichinrou.jpg\" alt=\" Heichinrou\" title=\" Heichinrou\" width=\"500\" height=\"296\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14207\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Shop 1003, 10th Floor Times Square; 1 Matheson Street\u003cbr>\nCauseway Bay, Hong Kong\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sabatini\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI'm recommending \u003ca href=\"http://www.rghk.com.hk/dining_sabatini.html\">Sabatini\u003c/a> to you because it's so utterly odd I wouldn't want you to miss it--and, of course, the food is great. It's in The Royal Garden Hotel, and they actually have pseudo-table side Mariachi music…yes, in an Italian restaurant in the middle of Hong Kong. It’s strange but it kind of works somehow. Given that most of the diners were tourists and business clientele, they know pretty much any English song you throw at them (although I will say they weren’t familiar with Lady Gaga). Sabatini's food is your classic Italian fare, with a nice seafood and pasta menu and a lovely antipasto bar. The original Sabtini opened in Rome in 1952, and this is one of two other locations. There's only so many dumplings and barbecued pork a person can eat, so when you find yourself in Hong Kong and need a break, sometimes a big plate of pasta is just the thing. Sabatini does that well.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>69 Mody Road, Tsimshatsui East\u003cbr>\n Kowloon, Hong Kong\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Stands at Temple Street\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAh, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temple_Street,_Hong_Kong\">Temple Street\u003c/a>. This is the nighttime market hawking fake watches, handbags, and an odd collection of other items like batteries, fans, socks, baseball caps and the like. I think it's worthwhile to take a quick turn just to see it, and before you go, hit up one of the fruit stands at the far end by the food area. Here you can get a variety of local fruit juices and coconut waters. Nothing tastes better after slugging through the crowded, steamy market. Try both the young coconut and regular coconut--young coconut tends to be smaller and sweeter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All in all, our trip was far too brief but we managed to pack it in, food-wise. I loved the variety, the spice, the unexpected cosmopolitan nature of many of the restaurants, and the graciousness of the chefs and waitstaff. I'm already compiling a list for a future trip when, perhaps, we can pack in more than a mere six days.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Ad Hoc: Temporary Relief From Fragapane Phobia",
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"content": "\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/04/ad-hoc500.jpg\" alt=\"ad hoc meal\" title=\"ad hoc meal\" width=\"500\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12432\">\u003cbr>\nOn Sunday, I celebrated my birthday -- along with \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vincent_Gallo\">Vincent Gallo\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joss_Stone\">Joss Stone\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethel_Skakel_Kennedy\">Ethel Kennedy\u003c/a>. When I was a child, birthday fetes were pretty sloppy, far wilder than any of the parties I attended in high school or college. They went down at the zoo, parks, public pools, and pizza buffets, where sweaty kids, red-faced from exertion and sauce, bounced around and challenged each other to contests of consumption. There was always cake, homemade at mine. While sweets have never been my thing, leftover cake for breakfast -- straight from the fridge, with hard cold frosting that peels right off -- was an irresistible coda to the annual gathering, so appealing that, on several occasions, in a rare greedy moment, I actually asked my mom to bake and stow away a second cake -- just in case my friends managed to vaporize the first. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't remember specific birthday parties so well. Somewhere along the way, they stopped happening, probably when dessert-oriented affairs lost their luster -- and I stopped caring about getting older in the first place. Years unfolded like symphonies then, long, meandering and dense, narratives stretching out, passing through movements, moods and phases. Now, they are proggy rock productions, half as long yet still intricate and hefty. Ten birthdays from Sunday, they will be pop songs, economical, straight to the point -- verse, chorus, verse, chorus, bridge, chorus, out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My birthday was a big one, a landmark -- or so I have been told. No one over 35 sympathizes when someone whines about turning 30. \"Big deal\" and \"get over it\" are common responses. At the corner store on Friday, I was buying some beer. \"So, how old are you, bro?\" the cashier suddenly asked -- a now familiar casual alternative to actually requesting identification. I told him I was a few days away from turning 30, and he groaned. \"Bro, 30 blows,\" he sighed, shaking his head, dropping my six-pack into a paper bag. \"My 20s were awesome, and then it went downhill.\" I shrugged. \"I'm don't care,\" I said. \"But, you know -- I'm 32, and you're just 30,\" he added helpfully -- hopefully starting to feel like an idiot. \"It won't be too bad.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The arrival of spring wasn't always about green garlic, favas, fresh peas, asparagus, and the start of the N.B.A. playoffs. Beginning with my 25th -- a silly excuse for a milestone, really -- it revolved around anticipating and dreading my birthday -- so much that I actually tried to keep the date a secret for a while. I have come a long way. Now, I realize though that my problem with birthdays isn't so much an aversion to growing older as the idea of celebrating the passage of time so personally. I don't want my friends to gather and toast me just because I'm a littler older. I don't want to be the center of that kind of attention. Some people organize dinners for themselves, invite everyone they know to bars, and throw house parties. Me, I only want to get away. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This past weekend, instead of donning skins and venturing off into the woods alone to nibble rodents and pick berries, I faced the dawn of my fourth decade with calm and an appropriate aura of maturity. I went to Wine Country with my girlfriend, but we did not go to wineries, take hikes, or shop. Instead, we watched cooking shows and basketball from a bed at a Best Western smelling fairly strongly of cat, sweat and old coffee, napped, and left our dark little room only to eat -- at \u003ca href=\"http://www.adhocrestaurant.com/\">Ad Hoc\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Keller\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a>'s two-and-a-half-year-old restaurant in \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yountville,_California\">Yountville\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Offering a single family-style menu on every night that it is open, Ad Hoc suits a birthday dinner. The four-course menu -- a salad, an entree, a cheese, and a dessert -- is announced via email every morning. Unless you have a dietary aversion to something, you eat what is offered. The relative inflexibility of a meal at Ad Hoc evokes the inevitable march of birthdays. You don't get to choose how fast you get older; you just age. If you make a reservation three months in advance, and you find out veal will be served, and you happen not to like veal, you either stay home or give veal another chance. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Downtown Yountville didn't impress me much. As we rolled through, the buildings seemed silly and new, as if part of a set. Even signs pointing out places of note rubbed me the wrong way. They were narrow wooden rectangles, the names printed or carved on in quirky fonts, reminiscent of signage at campsites and in tourist-heavy Gold Rush towns. As we crossed Washington St., ambling towards the restaurant, a middle-aged man in a two-tone North Face jacket -- literally, a city slicker -- walked past with his party. \"I'm gonna retire here,\" he said emphatically to the woman with an arm tucked under his. I would rather chug acid rain, I thought, as a few ominous drops splashed symbolically from the sky. Yet when we stepped into Ad Hoc, all gripes vanished. Warm, hungry, we sat down at our table, and just as I flung open the brown folder containing the wine list, the opening strains of Michael Jackson's Beethoven-indebted \u003ca href=\"http://www.metacafe.com/watch/sy-13406417/michael_jackson_will_you_be_there_official_music_video/\">\"Will You Be There\"\u003c/a> wafted over from invisible stereo speakers like steam rolling off a roast. Despite its popcorn-spiritual lyrical heft, hearing it at that moment made me feel quite peaceful, comfortable with my impending birthday, and even more overjoyed than usual to be spending it with the person sitting across from me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The salad and a flute of Cremant du Jura arrived before I could feel too weird about digging a song off the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free_Willy\">Free Willy\u003c/a> soundtrack. The salad was the kind of California comfort food Californians should be proud of. Every ingredient was beautiful, presented artfully, and perfectly cooked. The beans were leprechaun-green, simultaneously snappy and slippery. There were sweet pale green apple slices, curling wafers of rose-colored radish, thicker potato coins, soft and creamy, melting flakes of salt, frisee and fried polenta cubes, crusty brown on the outside, still oozing within. It was actually exciting, a humble masterpiece. With lovely, harmonious flavors, the dish celebrated produce but without an dulling, dogmatic degree of simplicity and purity. An herb-crusted lamb sirloin followed, majestic pink hunks over pine nuts, golden raisins, buttered barley, and rainbow chard in a silver serving dish, and, after that, a raw milk \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/prodinfo.asp?number=VERMAYR\">\"Vermont Ayr,\"\u003c/a> nutty and sour, perfect with roasted almonds, pistachios, and pecans, and drizzles of orange blossom honey. The dinner ended with a light, creamy bread pudding studded with croissant chunks, chocolate chips and bits of medjool date. The evening concluded with an episode of \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/iron-chef-america/index.html\">Iron Chef\u003c/a> back at the hotel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the morning, we ate a free continental breakfast at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariecallenders.com/\">Marie Callender's\u003c/a> across from the inn. We drove home in a gale of rain, planning to stop at \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleybowl.com/\">Berkeley Bowl\u003c/a> for cheap sushi and groceries before heading into San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I thought about Ad Hoc on the way home. In that it was originally conceived as a temporary establishment, the restaurant sort of evokes life itself. Life is, of course, very temporary. It starts, sometimes accidentally, often unsurely, and you don't know when it will end. Hopefully, it keeps going, each birthday ticking off another little notch in time's passing, ending only after you get to do most of the things you want to do. Ad Hoc has kept going, much longer than Keller anticipated it would. It turned out to be fun, a winning concept -- unique, exciting, and relatively affordable -- so it was not swiftly reconfigured as a burger joint or another Keller-ific experiment. It was allowed to simply continue, to breathe and evolve. I feel privileged to do the same. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"headline": "Ad Hoc: Temporary Relief From Fragapane Phobia",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/04/ad-hoc500.jpg\" alt=\"ad hoc meal\" title=\"ad hoc meal\" width=\"500\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12432\">\u003cbr>\nOn Sunday, I celebrated my birthday -- along with \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vincent_Gallo\">Vincent Gallo\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joss_Stone\">Joss Stone\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethel_Skakel_Kennedy\">Ethel Kennedy\u003c/a>. When I was a child, birthday fetes were pretty sloppy, far wilder than any of the parties I attended in high school or college. They went down at the zoo, parks, public pools, and pizza buffets, where sweaty kids, red-faced from exertion and sauce, bounced around and challenged each other to contests of consumption. There was always cake, homemade at mine. While sweets have never been my thing, leftover cake for breakfast -- straight from the fridge, with hard cold frosting that peels right off -- was an irresistible coda to the annual gathering, so appealing that, on several occasions, in a rare greedy moment, I actually asked my mom to bake and stow away a second cake -- just in case my friends managed to vaporize the first. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't remember specific birthday parties so well. Somewhere along the way, they stopped happening, probably when dessert-oriented affairs lost their luster -- and I stopped caring about getting older in the first place. Years unfolded like symphonies then, long, meandering and dense, narratives stretching out, passing through movements, moods and phases. Now, they are proggy rock productions, half as long yet still intricate and hefty. Ten birthdays from Sunday, they will be pop songs, economical, straight to the point -- verse, chorus, verse, chorus, bridge, chorus, out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My birthday was a big one, a landmark -- or so I have been told. No one over 35 sympathizes when someone whines about turning 30. \"Big deal\" and \"get over it\" are common responses. At the corner store on Friday, I was buying some beer. \"So, how old are you, bro?\" the cashier suddenly asked -- a now familiar casual alternative to actually requesting identification. I told him I was a few days away from turning 30, and he groaned. \"Bro, 30 blows,\" he sighed, shaking his head, dropping my six-pack into a paper bag. \"My 20s were awesome, and then it went downhill.\" I shrugged. \"I'm don't care,\" I said. \"But, you know -- I'm 32, and you're just 30,\" he added helpfully -- hopefully starting to feel like an idiot. \"It won't be too bad.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The arrival of spring wasn't always about green garlic, favas, fresh peas, asparagus, and the start of the N.B.A. playoffs. Beginning with my 25th -- a silly excuse for a milestone, really -- it revolved around anticipating and dreading my birthday -- so much that I actually tried to keep the date a secret for a while. I have come a long way. Now, I realize though that my problem with birthdays isn't so much an aversion to growing older as the idea of celebrating the passage of time so personally. I don't want my friends to gather and toast me just because I'm a littler older. I don't want to be the center of that kind of attention. Some people organize dinners for themselves, invite everyone they know to bars, and throw house parties. Me, I only want to get away. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This past weekend, instead of donning skins and venturing off into the woods alone to nibble rodents and pick berries, I faced the dawn of my fourth decade with calm and an appropriate aura of maturity. I went to Wine Country with my girlfriend, but we did not go to wineries, take hikes, or shop. Instead, we watched cooking shows and basketball from a bed at a Best Western smelling fairly strongly of cat, sweat and old coffee, napped, and left our dark little room only to eat -- at \u003ca href=\"http://www.adhocrestaurant.com/\">Ad Hoc\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Keller\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a>'s two-and-a-half-year-old restaurant in \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yountville,_California\">Yountville\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Offering a single family-style menu on every night that it is open, Ad Hoc suits a birthday dinner. The four-course menu -- a salad, an entree, a cheese, and a dessert -- is announced via email every morning. Unless you have a dietary aversion to something, you eat what is offered. The relative inflexibility of a meal at Ad Hoc evokes the inevitable march of birthdays. You don't get to choose how fast you get older; you just age. If you make a reservation three months in advance, and you find out veal will be served, and you happen not to like veal, you either stay home or give veal another chance. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Downtown Yountville didn't impress me much. As we rolled through, the buildings seemed silly and new, as if part of a set. Even signs pointing out places of note rubbed me the wrong way. They were narrow wooden rectangles, the names printed or carved on in quirky fonts, reminiscent of signage at campsites and in tourist-heavy Gold Rush towns. As we crossed Washington St., ambling towards the restaurant, a middle-aged man in a two-tone North Face jacket -- literally, a city slicker -- walked past with his party. \"I'm gonna retire here,\" he said emphatically to the woman with an arm tucked under his. I would rather chug acid rain, I thought, as a few ominous drops splashed symbolically from the sky. Yet when we stepped into Ad Hoc, all gripes vanished. Warm, hungry, we sat down at our table, and just as I flung open the brown folder containing the wine list, the opening strains of Michael Jackson's Beethoven-indebted \u003ca href=\"http://www.metacafe.com/watch/sy-13406417/michael_jackson_will_you_be_there_official_music_video/\">\"Will You Be There\"\u003c/a> wafted over from invisible stereo speakers like steam rolling off a roast. Despite its popcorn-spiritual lyrical heft, hearing it at that moment made me feel quite peaceful, comfortable with my impending birthday, and even more overjoyed than usual to be spending it with the person sitting across from me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The salad and a flute of Cremant du Jura arrived before I could feel too weird about digging a song off the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free_Willy\">Free Willy\u003c/a> soundtrack. The salad was the kind of California comfort food Californians should be proud of. Every ingredient was beautiful, presented artfully, and perfectly cooked. The beans were leprechaun-green, simultaneously snappy and slippery. There were sweet pale green apple slices, curling wafers of rose-colored radish, thicker potato coins, soft and creamy, melting flakes of salt, frisee and fried polenta cubes, crusty brown on the outside, still oozing within. It was actually exciting, a humble masterpiece. With lovely, harmonious flavors, the dish celebrated produce but without an dulling, dogmatic degree of simplicity and purity. An herb-crusted lamb sirloin followed, majestic pink hunks over pine nuts, golden raisins, buttered barley, and rainbow chard in a silver serving dish, and, after that, a raw milk \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/prodinfo.asp?number=VERMAYR\">\"Vermont Ayr,\"\u003c/a> nutty and sour, perfect with roasted almonds, pistachios, and pecans, and drizzles of orange blossom honey. The dinner ended with a light, creamy bread pudding studded with croissant chunks, chocolate chips and bits of medjool date. The evening concluded with an episode of \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/iron-chef-america/index.html\">Iron Chef\u003c/a> back at the hotel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the morning, we ate a free continental breakfast at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariecallenders.com/\">Marie Callender's\u003c/a> across from the inn. We drove home in a gale of rain, planning to stop at \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleybowl.com/\">Berkeley Bowl\u003c/a> for cheap sushi and groceries before heading into San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I thought about Ad Hoc on the way home. In that it was originally conceived as a temporary establishment, the restaurant sort of evokes life itself. Life is, of course, very temporary. It starts, sometimes accidentally, often unsurely, and you don't know when it will end. Hopefully, it keeps going, each birthday ticking off another little notch in time's passing, ending only after you get to do most of the things you want to do. Ad Hoc has kept going, much longer than Keller anticipated it would. It turned out to be fun, a winning concept -- unique, exciting, and relatively affordable -- so it was not swiftly reconfigured as a burger joint or another Keller-ific experiment. It was allowed to simply continue, to breathe and evolve. I feel privileged to do the same. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/andrew-rasta.jpg\" alt=\"andrew simmons at rasta\" title=\"andrew simmons at rasta\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-11341\">Restaurants and bars with themes have always rubbed me the wrong way. I think of the first and only time I walked into \u003ca href=\"http://www.smoothasbutter.com/\">Butter\u003c/a>. It must have been 2003. While I was as well-versed in irony as any literary theory buff with a fresh diploma, the brown-bagged forties, snack stand carved out of the side of a trailer, and steaming tater tots seemed a bit much. I'm not a stickler for good taste, but I was instantly annoyed by a bar dedicated to aping the coarsest trappings of poor white culture for the amusement of privileged San Franciscans carousing through SoMa. I've seen it before around these parts: even politically radical non-profit workers who would rather poke out an eye than offend a person of color think nothing of throwing \"white trash\"-themed birthday parties for themselves. Plus, tater tots are actually really good -- without irony, just ketchup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, I've splashed around the \u003ca href=\"http://www.fairmont.com/sanfrancisco/GuestServices/Restaurants/TheTongaRoomHurricaneBar.htm\">Tonga Room\u003c/a>, stomped into the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bigfootlodge.com/\">Bigfoot Lounge\u003c/a>, and knocked back a whiskey at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bourbonandbranch.com/\">Bourbon and Branch\u003c/a>, that classy throw-back to San Francisco's speakeasy-riddled past -- appealing themed joints, all of them. The other day, I was talking themed bars with some buddies, one of whom manages a newish decidedly un-themed establishment in Russian Hill, on Polk, just above the Tenderloin. The topic was Manhattan bars, where drink costs soar to airport prices -- $6 for a bottle of beer, $10 for a well drink. We joked that someone should start a really, really expensive bar in San Francisco called $$$. There would be a $50 cover charge, and no music, karaoke, free food, pool, or pub quiz to account for the steep entrance fee. The drinks would not be made with fancy infused \u003ca href=\"http://www.alcademics.com/2010/02/ilegal-infusions-the-word-gets-out.html\">potentially illegal spirits\u003c/a> or feature small artisanal producers. They would be perfectly plain and perhaps a little weak. Still, if you could afford to buy your way in, you could hang out with others who could as well, which might be reward enough. It'd be pure elitism, distilled -- as appropriate a theme as any.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My trip to Japan late last March gave me a new perspective on themed drinking establishments. I wasn't there long enough to deliver an exhaustive report -- I'm sure some late-night Travel Channel special has already tried. There was so much I did not see, particularly in Tokyo, where I only spent a few jet-lagged days. My home-base for most of the visit was Kyoto, Japan's old Imperial capitol. Still, after a week of bouncing around that city's bars and informal late-night eateries, my head was throbbing -- and not from too much single malt. Along Kiyamachi St., very close to the Kamo River, tiny izakayas and watering holes burrow into unassuming commercial storefronts and stubby office buildings. You walk up a few flights of stairs -- as if going to see a disreputable dentist -- and knock on doors that open on to strange, insular, fastidiously detailed worlds. They reminded me of levels in \u003ca href=\"http://www.videogamesblogger.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/10/super-mario-bros-2-nes-potion.jpg\">Super Mario Brothers\u003c/a>: through one portal, a swanky, pocket-sized cool jazz club draped in blue curtains appeared, through another, fittingly, a red-and-white toadstool-themed \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/11/24/morel-of-a-story/\">\"mushroom\" bar\u003c/a> no bigger than an apartment kitchen -- both in the same building, occupying suites on the same floor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One night, I visited two establishments thoroughly preoccupied with Jamaica's most prominent (and cliched) cultural and artistic exports -- Bob Marley, an easy way with marijuana, Rastafarianism, ripe for the watering down, and the flag's black, yellow, and green color scheme. Despite being a huge reggae fan, in the United States, I wouldn't have had the slightest interest. Nonetheless, Rasta and Rub-A-Dub were a lot of fun. The first is a dark cave on the 4th or 5th floor of an office building. Muzak renditions of Rockers classics seep from hidden speakers. A weed leaf mosaic rises up out of the tiled floor. A shrine to Mr. Marley occupies the middle of the back wall, bathed in chartreuse light, overlooking the scene. When I was there, the crowd was typically diverse: bartenders with desperate attempts at dreadlocks, a few business guys enjoying an extended happy hour, a party of ladies on the heels of a shopping trip, and a couple hanging out along the side wall, with the lanky American gentleman trying not to look as absurd as the retina-burning blue \"island\" cocktails in his glass. Significantly older, Rub-A-Dub is located in a frond-filled basement. According to legend, the owner, a Japanese man, married a Jamaican woman, and opened the bar to continuously remind her of her homeland. In truth, theme aside, Rasta would be considered a pretty good restaurant in San Francisco, offering roast fish heads and Japanese riffs on jerked chicken and seafood. I didn't eat at Rub-A-Dub (too many fish heads at Rasta), but I did have a few drinks under bunches of bananas hanging from the ceiling. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I returned from Japan in April -- just ten days after I'd arrived -- but I started thinking about themes all over again last week, when I read an S.F. Weekly \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/03/hog_rocks_introduces_the_ham_b.php\">blog post\u003c/a> about Hogs & Rocks. Set to open in May or June, this joint endeavor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfmaverick.com/\">Maverick\u003c/a> chef Scott Youkilis and Eric Rubin of \u003ca href=\"http://www.tresagaves.com/\">Tres Agaves\u003c/a> will serve 45 different kinds of ham, along with pickles, salads, and oysters (the rocks, of course). Unlike, say Rasta, Hogs & Rocks will do food and drink first, letting aesthetics follow suit. If the bar sprang up in Japan, the floor cushions would be swine-pink and sewn up to look like plump hind legs. There'd be small chairs shaped like oyster shells. Albums by Badfinger (lead singer, the late Peter Ham) would boom on the stereo. Images of piggy pop culture's most prominent representatives -- Wilbur, Porky, Pooh's \u003ca href=\"http://janezlifeandtimes.files.wordpress.com/2009/04/pooh_n_piglet_jig.jpg\">nervous little friend\u003c/a>, and a rogue's gallery of notorious male chauvinists -- would line the walls. The atmosphere would be unsubtly rendered, but genuine, irony-free -- seriously silly, with excellent food. That's one distinction I can draw between themed bars and restaurants here and there: seemingly goofy joints in Japan actually tend to have good food, whereas in the United States, even in San Francisco, corny trappings (from tiki bars to Chuck E. Cheese) all but guarantee an indifferent kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Kyoto, the most unassuming bar I visited was in many ways the most revealing. To launch a long night of drinking, my girlfriend and I wandered into Color, an elegant, stylish lounge decked out in handsome modern furniture and classy vintage appliances. This was a nice place to drink. It reminded us of countless bars we'd patronized in the States. We discerned no theme, which, obviously, didn't surprise us. We'd seen plenty of regular bars around. This one just felt cozier than most. Then, we grabbed a card on the way out and read the finer print. The bar did in fact have a theme. It identified as \"New York-style,\" which explained why it struck us as so familiar -- right down to the $10 cocktails.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/andrew-rasta.jpg\" alt=\"andrew simmons at rasta\" title=\"andrew simmons at rasta\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-11341\">Restaurants and bars with themes have always rubbed me the wrong way. I think of the first and only time I walked into \u003ca href=\"http://www.smoothasbutter.com/\">Butter\u003c/a>. It must have been 2003. While I was as well-versed in irony as any literary theory buff with a fresh diploma, the brown-bagged forties, snack stand carved out of the side of a trailer, and steaming tater tots seemed a bit much. I'm not a stickler for good taste, but I was instantly annoyed by a bar dedicated to aping the coarsest trappings of poor white culture for the amusement of privileged San Franciscans carousing through SoMa. I've seen it before around these parts: even politically radical non-profit workers who would rather poke out an eye than offend a person of color think nothing of throwing \"white trash\"-themed birthday parties for themselves. Plus, tater tots are actually really good -- without irony, just ketchup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, I've splashed around the \u003ca href=\"http://www.fairmont.com/sanfrancisco/GuestServices/Restaurants/TheTongaRoomHurricaneBar.htm\">Tonga Room\u003c/a>, stomped into the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bigfootlodge.com/\">Bigfoot Lounge\u003c/a>, and knocked back a whiskey at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bourbonandbranch.com/\">Bourbon and Branch\u003c/a>, that classy throw-back to San Francisco's speakeasy-riddled past -- appealing themed joints, all of them. The other day, I was talking themed bars with some buddies, one of whom manages a newish decidedly un-themed establishment in Russian Hill, on Polk, just above the Tenderloin. The topic was Manhattan bars, where drink costs soar to airport prices -- $6 for a bottle of beer, $10 for a well drink. We joked that someone should start a really, really expensive bar in San Francisco called $$$. There would be a $50 cover charge, and no music, karaoke, free food, pool, or pub quiz to account for the steep entrance fee. The drinks would not be made with fancy infused \u003ca href=\"http://www.alcademics.com/2010/02/ilegal-infusions-the-word-gets-out.html\">potentially illegal spirits\u003c/a> or feature small artisanal producers. They would be perfectly plain and perhaps a little weak. Still, if you could afford to buy your way in, you could hang out with others who could as well, which might be reward enough. It'd be pure elitism, distilled -- as appropriate a theme as any.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My trip to Japan late last March gave me a new perspective on themed drinking establishments. I wasn't there long enough to deliver an exhaustive report -- I'm sure some late-night Travel Channel special has already tried. There was so much I did not see, particularly in Tokyo, where I only spent a few jet-lagged days. My home-base for most of the visit was Kyoto, Japan's old Imperial capitol. Still, after a week of bouncing around that city's bars and informal late-night eateries, my head was throbbing -- and not from too much single malt. Along Kiyamachi St., very close to the Kamo River, tiny izakayas and watering holes burrow into unassuming commercial storefronts and stubby office buildings. You walk up a few flights of stairs -- as if going to see a disreputable dentist -- and knock on doors that open on to strange, insular, fastidiously detailed worlds. They reminded me of levels in \u003ca href=\"http://www.videogamesblogger.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/10/super-mario-bros-2-nes-potion.jpg\">Super Mario Brothers\u003c/a>: through one portal, a swanky, pocket-sized cool jazz club draped in blue curtains appeared, through another, fittingly, a red-and-white toadstool-themed \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/11/24/morel-of-a-story/\">\"mushroom\" bar\u003c/a> no bigger than an apartment kitchen -- both in the same building, occupying suites on the same floor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One night, I visited two establishments thoroughly preoccupied with Jamaica's most prominent (and cliched) cultural and artistic exports -- Bob Marley, an easy way with marijuana, Rastafarianism, ripe for the watering down, and the flag's black, yellow, and green color scheme. Despite being a huge reggae fan, in the United States, I wouldn't have had the slightest interest. Nonetheless, Rasta and Rub-A-Dub were a lot of fun. The first is a dark cave on the 4th or 5th floor of an office building. Muzak renditions of Rockers classics seep from hidden speakers. A weed leaf mosaic rises up out of the tiled floor. A shrine to Mr. Marley occupies the middle of the back wall, bathed in chartreuse light, overlooking the scene. When I was there, the crowd was typically diverse: bartenders with desperate attempts at dreadlocks, a few business guys enjoying an extended happy hour, a party of ladies on the heels of a shopping trip, and a couple hanging out along the side wall, with the lanky American gentleman trying not to look as absurd as the retina-burning blue \"island\" cocktails in his glass. Significantly older, Rub-A-Dub is located in a frond-filled basement. According to legend, the owner, a Japanese man, married a Jamaican woman, and opened the bar to continuously remind her of her homeland. In truth, theme aside, Rasta would be considered a pretty good restaurant in San Francisco, offering roast fish heads and Japanese riffs on jerked chicken and seafood. I didn't eat at Rub-A-Dub (too many fish heads at Rasta), but I did have a few drinks under bunches of bananas hanging from the ceiling. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I returned from Japan in April -- just ten days after I'd arrived -- but I started thinking about themes all over again last week, when I read an S.F. Weekly \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/03/hog_rocks_introduces_the_ham_b.php\">blog post\u003c/a> about Hogs & Rocks. Set to open in May or June, this joint endeavor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfmaverick.com/\">Maverick\u003c/a> chef Scott Youkilis and Eric Rubin of \u003ca href=\"http://www.tresagaves.com/\">Tres Agaves\u003c/a> will serve 45 different kinds of ham, along with pickles, salads, and oysters (the rocks, of course). Unlike, say Rasta, Hogs & Rocks will do food and drink first, letting aesthetics follow suit. If the bar sprang up in Japan, the floor cushions would be swine-pink and sewn up to look like plump hind legs. There'd be small chairs shaped like oyster shells. Albums by Badfinger (lead singer, the late Peter Ham) would boom on the stereo. Images of piggy pop culture's most prominent representatives -- Wilbur, Porky, Pooh's \u003ca href=\"http://janezlifeandtimes.files.wordpress.com/2009/04/pooh_n_piglet_jig.jpg\">nervous little friend\u003c/a>, and a rogue's gallery of notorious male chauvinists -- would line the walls. The atmosphere would be unsubtly rendered, but genuine, irony-free -- seriously silly, with excellent food. That's one distinction I can draw between themed bars and restaurants here and there: seemingly goofy joints in Japan actually tend to have good food, whereas in the United States, even in San Francisco, corny trappings (from tiki bars to Chuck E. Cheese) all but guarantee an indifferent kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Kyoto, the most unassuming bar I visited was in many ways the most revealing. To launch a long night of drinking, my girlfriend and I wandered into Color, an elegant, stylish lounge decked out in handsome modern furniture and classy vintage appliances. This was a nice place to drink. It reminded us of countless bars we'd patronized in the States. We discerned no theme, which, obviously, didn't surprise us. We'd seen plenty of regular bars around. This one just felt cozier than most. Then, we grabbed a card on the way out and read the finer print. The bar did in fact have a theme. It identified as \"New York-style,\" which explained why it struck us as so familiar -- right down to the $10 cocktails.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/the-princess-sapphire.jpg\" alt=\"the princess sapphire\" title=\"the princess sapphire\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9670\">\u003cbr>\nNormally I spend my winter holiday season with visions of sugar plums dancing in my head. Homemade gingerbread and sugar cookies sit on a counter already crowded with pumpkin bread and \u003ca href=\"http://i.ehow.com/images/a02/27/mj/struffola-easy-steps-200X200.jpg\">struffola\u003c/a>; my mom and I debate the merits of popovers versus Yorkshire pudding; and a medley of Christmas movies -- from \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0047673/\">White Christmas\u003c/a> to \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0319343/\">Elf \u003c/a>-- play in the background. But this year, the week of Christmas was a little different as my family and I spent our time with nary a Christmas cookie in sight. Instead, we lounged on the \u003ca href=\"http://www.princess.com/learn/ships/sa/index.html\">Princess Sapphire\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now we are not, by any stretch of the imagination, cruisers. As I mentioned in last week's post on \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/07/marisma-fish-tacos/\">Marisma Fish Tacos\u003c/a>, my Christmas holiday vacation was a family obligation. I realize there are people out there who will think I'm an ungrateful whiner. That during a time when an icy winter cold front barrels across the country, and people everywhere are fantasizing about Mexico, I do nothing but carp about my time aboard a luxury liner sailing toward that destination. My response to those people is simply to say -- different strokes for different folks. Cruising is not my stroke. For one thing, I was a bit seasick the first few days. I was also appalled by the number of \u003ca href=\"http://radiopatriot.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/glenn-beck2.jpg\">Glenn Beck\u003c/a> books I saw people reading. That, plus the bombardment of Mariah Carey and her brethren from speakers discreetly placed throughout the ship almost did me in. Yet I could have handled the many small annoyances if I hadn't been so overwhelmed by the onslaught of underwhelming food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food on a cruise ship comes in many different shapes and forms and from a variety of locations. For the most part, the food is free (well, it's included in your passage price), and other than soda and alcohol, plus a couple of restaurants that charge a moderate fee for a finer dining experience, you can graze to your heart's content (or detriment) at no additional cost. There are large buffet areas with everything from tri tip and beef pot pies to Indian curries and salad bars. Near the pool on the Lido deck sits a pizza and hamburger counter, an ice cream and smoothie stand, and a regular mixed drink bar. There are then numerous other bars set throughout the ship, plus six or seven sit-down restaurants. You can even have food delivered to your room. Basically, it's impossible to starve on a cruise ship.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you go on a cruise, however, you must relinquish any expectations to eat local, organic or sustainably-produced food. These simply do not exist in the cruising world. All the meat is corn-fed, endangered fish is bandied about like it was 1950, and spring vegetables sit in all their glory on your December plate. So forgo any high-minded expectations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What you will find instead are masses of edibles laid out in every corner of your floating world. I have never seen such an abundance of food. Daily I was encountered with enormous buffets filled with steak, breaded shrimp, cheeses, breads, puddings, and cakes of all kinds. As I walked through this menagerie of high cholesterol, a parade of humanity -- from the very young to the almost ancient -- jostled past in their individual quests to fill their plates. Grown men in their 50s piled so much shrimp cocktail on 9 x 13\" plates that they overflowed. Small children skipped the fruit section entirely, and often the actual entrées, instead loading their platters with cakes and cookies. And chubby people everywhere stood in line at the prime rib counter, asking for extra helpings of gravy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was in no way immune. After choosing six shrimp one afternoon, I looked around, saw the heaping helpings all around me, and then added a few more shrimp to my plate. \"Why not?\" I thought, even though I would have never taken that many at home. At breakfast, I decided to get a sunny-side-up egg PLUS a bagel with salmon and cream cheese PLUS sausage PLUS a yogurt. How could I resist? There was nothing else to do. I started to wonder if the clever folks at Pixar modeled \u003ca href=\"http://images2.wikia.nocookie.net/pixar/images/0/06/Wall-E&EVE_AXIOM.jpg\">the Axiom\u003c/a> in \u003ca href=\"http://www.pixar.com/featurefilms/walle/\">WALL-E\u003c/a> on a cruise ship. The similarities are uncanny: large people lounging in chairs all day, unremittingly consuming from dawn to bedtime while staff sweep and serve around them. Red is the new blue! Shrimp cocktail for everyone!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thankfully some sanity with proportions was found in the sit-down restaurants, which is where we dined most evenings. The helpings there were more moderate. The restaurants on the ship all serve the same daily menus, with each dining location adding its own specialty dish. Standard dinner fare included mignonettes --- the wait staff told us these were like little filet mignons although I'm pretty sure they weren't cut from the tenderloin -- with potatoes; fish in various types of cream sauces; pork chops with baked apples and sweet potatoes; and usually something more exotic like duck à l'orange. On New Year's Eve, everyone--and I mean everyone--had lobster. The quality of the food was equivalent to what you'd find at a mid-level hotel: under-seasoned, a bit dry, and trying too hard. Not horrible, but also nothing memorable. The most disappointing course was the dessert. The best cakes were simply okay, while others verged on spit-into-a-napkin horrible. We learned to stick with the ice cream sundaes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think what amazed me most was the communal sense of gratuitous gluttony for food I found barely edible. Sure, there was a ton to eat, but nothing was singular. The presence of quantity seemed to make everyone lose sight of the absence of quality. But in a country where Olive Gardens and Red Lobsters -- known for their all you can eat bread sticks and shrimp -- are putting small restaurants out of business, should I really be surprised? A testament to how depressing this all was is the fact that I did not take any pictures of the food other than the fish tacos at Marisma. I am normally pretty obsessive about photographing my meals, yet during an entire week on the Princess Sapphire, I couldn't muster up the energy to take one picture. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/the-princess-sapphire.jpg\" alt=\"the princess sapphire\" title=\"the princess sapphire\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9670\">\u003cbr>\nNormally I spend my winter holiday season with visions of sugar plums dancing in my head. Homemade gingerbread and sugar cookies sit on a counter already crowded with pumpkin bread and \u003ca href=\"http://i.ehow.com/images/a02/27/mj/struffola-easy-steps-200X200.jpg\">struffola\u003c/a>; my mom and I debate the merits of popovers versus Yorkshire pudding; and a medley of Christmas movies -- from \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0047673/\">White Christmas\u003c/a> to \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0319343/\">Elf \u003c/a>-- play in the background. But this year, the week of Christmas was a little different as my family and I spent our time with nary a Christmas cookie in sight. Instead, we lounged on the \u003ca href=\"http://www.princess.com/learn/ships/sa/index.html\">Princess Sapphire\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now we are not, by any stretch of the imagination, cruisers. As I mentioned in last week's post on \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/07/marisma-fish-tacos/\">Marisma Fish Tacos\u003c/a>, my Christmas holiday vacation was a family obligation. I realize there are people out there who will think I'm an ungrateful whiner. That during a time when an icy winter cold front barrels across the country, and people everywhere are fantasizing about Mexico, I do nothing but carp about my time aboard a luxury liner sailing toward that destination. My response to those people is simply to say -- different strokes for different folks. Cruising is not my stroke. For one thing, I was a bit seasick the first few days. I was also appalled by the number of \u003ca href=\"http://radiopatriot.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/glenn-beck2.jpg\">Glenn Beck\u003c/a> books I saw people reading. That, plus the bombardment of Mariah Carey and her brethren from speakers discreetly placed throughout the ship almost did me in. Yet I could have handled the many small annoyances if I hadn't been so overwhelmed by the onslaught of underwhelming food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food on a cruise ship comes in many different shapes and forms and from a variety of locations. For the most part, the food is free (well, it's included in your passage price), and other than soda and alcohol, plus a couple of restaurants that charge a moderate fee for a finer dining experience, you can graze to your heart's content (or detriment) at no additional cost. There are large buffet areas with everything from tri tip and beef pot pies to Indian curries and salad bars. Near the pool on the Lido deck sits a pizza and hamburger counter, an ice cream and smoothie stand, and a regular mixed drink bar. There are then numerous other bars set throughout the ship, plus six or seven sit-down restaurants. You can even have food delivered to your room. Basically, it's impossible to starve on a cruise ship.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you go on a cruise, however, you must relinquish any expectations to eat local, organic or sustainably-produced food. These simply do not exist in the cruising world. All the meat is corn-fed, endangered fish is bandied about like it was 1950, and spring vegetables sit in all their glory on your December plate. So forgo any high-minded expectations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What you will find instead are masses of edibles laid out in every corner of your floating world. I have never seen such an abundance of food. Daily I was encountered with enormous buffets filled with steak, breaded shrimp, cheeses, breads, puddings, and cakes of all kinds. As I walked through this menagerie of high cholesterol, a parade of humanity -- from the very young to the almost ancient -- jostled past in their individual quests to fill their plates. Grown men in their 50s piled so much shrimp cocktail on 9 x 13\" plates that they overflowed. Small children skipped the fruit section entirely, and often the actual entrées, instead loading their platters with cakes and cookies. And chubby people everywhere stood in line at the prime rib counter, asking for extra helpings of gravy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was in no way immune. After choosing six shrimp one afternoon, I looked around, saw the heaping helpings all around me, and then added a few more shrimp to my plate. \"Why not?\" I thought, even though I would have never taken that many at home. At breakfast, I decided to get a sunny-side-up egg PLUS a bagel with salmon and cream cheese PLUS sausage PLUS a yogurt. How could I resist? There was nothing else to do. I started to wonder if the clever folks at Pixar modeled \u003ca href=\"http://images2.wikia.nocookie.net/pixar/images/0/06/Wall-E&EVE_AXIOM.jpg\">the Axiom\u003c/a> in \u003ca href=\"http://www.pixar.com/featurefilms/walle/\">WALL-E\u003c/a> on a cruise ship. The similarities are uncanny: large people lounging in chairs all day, unremittingly consuming from dawn to bedtime while staff sweep and serve around them. Red is the new blue! Shrimp cocktail for everyone!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thankfully some sanity with proportions was found in the sit-down restaurants, which is where we dined most evenings. The helpings there were more moderate. The restaurants on the ship all serve the same daily menus, with each dining location adding its own specialty dish. Standard dinner fare included mignonettes --- the wait staff told us these were like little filet mignons although I'm pretty sure they weren't cut from the tenderloin -- with potatoes; fish in various types of cream sauces; pork chops with baked apples and sweet potatoes; and usually something more exotic like duck à l'orange. On New Year's Eve, everyone--and I mean everyone--had lobster. The quality of the food was equivalent to what you'd find at a mid-level hotel: under-seasoned, a bit dry, and trying too hard. Not horrible, but also nothing memorable. The most disappointing course was the dessert. The best cakes were simply okay, while others verged on spit-into-a-napkin horrible. We learned to stick with the ice cream sundaes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think what amazed me most was the communal sense of gratuitous gluttony for food I found barely edible. Sure, there was a ton to eat, but nothing was singular. The presence of quantity seemed to make everyone lose sight of the absence of quality. But in a country where Olive Gardens and Red Lobsters -- known for their all you can eat bread sticks and shrimp -- are putting small restaurants out of business, should I really be surprised? A testament to how depressing this all was is the fact that I did not take any pictures of the food other than the fish tacos at Marisma. I am normally pretty obsessive about photographing my meals, yet during an entire week on the Princess Sapphire, I couldn't muster up the energy to take one picture. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Marisma Fish Tacos",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Marisma2.jpg\" alt=\"Marisma\" title=\"Marisma\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9537\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I just took a vacation where the food was so uninspired and mediocre I wanted to weep each day over my plate. It was one of those \"family obligation\" vacations. You know the kind. Where a family member insists everyone spend their hard-earned vacation time and money at a destination where she/he wants to go. This family member insists you'll all love it, but you don't. You can't really complain out loud, because your beloved family member is so pleased that everyone is together in seeming harmony at their very special holiday spot, that you choke back your snarky comments. So while you sit miserably and snicker with your partner over the faults of the locale, the family member who convinced everyone to go is having the time of her life. Thankfully my very special persuasive family member doesn't read my BAB posts, so I can fully vent here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now although I had never actually set foot on a cruise ship before December 26 of this year -- yes, that's the very special holiday location -- I always knew I never wanted to take a cruise. My information on this type of vacation was limited, mainly culled from Love Boat episodes and those awful Carnival Cruise Line commercials where everyone is partying down. But I am not a party-down-on-a-cruise-ship type of person. When I go on vacation, I like to explore places I've never visited or return to locations I love: ambling into small family restaurants and town squares, sitting on park benches while I watch locals meander by, romping with my kids, and investigating trails and roads previously unknown. I enjoy strolling through museums, watching local theater, wandering around national parks, and chatting with people I normally wouldn't meet. I also like to sometimes just quietly read my book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, let's just say that my vacation wasn't quite what I would have planned had I been persuasive enough to convince my family where to vacation this holiday season. I will discuss the food on my own private Love Boat in another post -- as I just can't muster up the energy to rehash it now -- but this week I want to talk about something amazing I ate while away. It's the beginning of a new year, and I have warm and fuzzy thoughts of being less negative (we'll see if I can carry this through to February), so I want to start off with a post about something delicious. Luckily, in the midst of all that cruise ship hubbub, we found one truly amazing meal, and of course it was on land.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/A-little-music-at-Marisa.jpg\" alt=\"A little music at Marisa\" title=\"A little music at Marisa\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9538\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After three days at sea, our enormous polluting ship sailed into beautiful Puerto Vallarta. While the rest of our group took off to the jungle to zip line for a couple of hours, my family and I taxied downtown to meet fellow Babber \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/kim-laidlaw/\">Kim Laidlaw\u003c/a> (who just happened to be staying an hour away) and her husband Keith (looking very tall and Scottish in the Mexican sun). Now although I usually research restaurants before I leave for vacation, I must admit that I failed to do so this time around. Maybe it was because our time in each port was limited to a few hours, or maybe it was due to my resentment at having to go on a cruise. Whatever the case, I was remiss. Luckily Kim is a much better woman than I. Before taking a taxi to meet us, she had researched the perfect place to eat fish tacos while visiting the beautiful \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/video/screenplay/vi1383006233/\">Night of the Iguana\u003c/a> location city of Puerto Vallarta. So while the other tourists made their way to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bubbagump.com/locations/puerto_vallarta.html\">Bubba Gump Shrimp Company\u003c/a> (there really is one of those in every seaside tourist town) our group meandered about 8 blocks away from the crowded boardwalk and into the city where we found a small aluminum taco cart called Marisma Fish Taco (yes, I realize \"Marisma Fish Tacos\" sounds more catchy, but the sign left off that last \"s\").\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marisma is the type of eating establishment I dream of finding while on vacation. With locals crowding the few stools available to taste the pleasures of its fried fish, smoked marlin and shrimp tacos, it's the real deal. Marisma, from what I understand with my limited Spanish, is the lovely woman who runs it all and I am witness to the fact that she and the other women who work there are masters at making Baja-style tacos. While orders are being taken and patrons eat at the counter or at the few tables set up on the neighboring sidewalk, one lovely young woman continually pulls handfuls of masa from a small mountain of the stuff and grills freshly-made tortillas while another woman, who I think is Marisma, cooks and runs the show behind her. And here they are...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/Ry0j9MU0nAE&hl=en_US&fs=1&\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/Ry0j9MU0nAE&hl=en_US&fs=1&\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are salsas set up on the counter, red and green with just the right amount of spice, but the real show stopper is the chile and onion compote set in large glass goblets. This mixture -- picante, tangy, and sweet all at the same time -- is the perfect accompaniment to the fish taco, or really anything for that matter. I wish I had some to slather on my chicken at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/smoked-marlin-taco.jpg\" alt=\"smoked marlin taco\" title=\"smoked marlin taco\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9540\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you taste those tacos you know why, in a city full of food, people stand in line for their lunch here. I started with the smoked marlin taco, which is served in a gorgeous red sauce that wakes up the tongue and makes it dance. I then went on to the house specialty: fish tacos. These are, in essence, perfect. Dorado covered in the simplest of batters, fried until golden, crisp and beautiful and then set inside a tortilla fresh off the grill with a topping of crema and cabbage. After days of heavily sauced mediocrity on board the ship, my taste buds sighed in relief. I devoured the first taco in a few seconds, so then had to order another one, pacing myself so I could slowly enjoy the flavors. While listening to a man strum on the guitar nearby, I marveled at how such simple ingredients could coalesce to create the perfect taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/fish-taco.jpg\" alt=\"fish taco\" title=\"fish taco\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9539\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I chatted with the nice man beside me. He had grown up in Puerto Vallarta and ate at Marisma a few times a week. At 13 pesos a taco (about one U.S. dollar) it was a bargain for both tourists and locals alike. Kim and Keith treated my family to our feast, which came out to about $20 for the six of us, which included sodas. Thanks, Laidlaws!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After returning to our ship that evening, my family and I talked glowingly of our lunch that day. While tuxedoed waiters flitted about us, serving us a very forgettable meal on china plates, our thoughts were with those fish tacos. \u003cem>Yo sueño con Marisma Fish Taco\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nMarisma Fish Taco\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n320 Calle Naranjo\u003cbr>\nPuerto Vallarta\u003cbr>\nMexico. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Once you taste those tacos you know why, in a city full of food, people stand in line for their lunch here. I started with the smoked marlin taco, which is served in a gorgeous red sauce that wakes up the tongue and makes it dance. I then went on to the house specialty: fish tacos. These are, in essence, perfect. Dorado covered in the simplest of batters, fried to perfection and then set inside a tortilla fresh off the grill with a topping of crema and cabbage. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Marisma2.jpg\" alt=\"Marisma\" title=\"Marisma\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9537\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I just took a vacation where the food was so uninspired and mediocre I wanted to weep each day over my plate. It was one of those \"family obligation\" vacations. You know the kind. Where a family member insists everyone spend their hard-earned vacation time and money at a destination where she/he wants to go. This family member insists you'll all love it, but you don't. You can't really complain out loud, because your beloved family member is so pleased that everyone is together in seeming harmony at their very special holiday spot, that you choke back your snarky comments. So while you sit miserably and snicker with your partner over the faults of the locale, the family member who convinced everyone to go is having the time of her life. Thankfully my very special persuasive family member doesn't read my BAB posts, so I can fully vent here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now although I had never actually set foot on a cruise ship before December 26 of this year -- yes, that's the very special holiday location -- I always knew I never wanted to take a cruise. My information on this type of vacation was limited, mainly culled from Love Boat episodes and those awful Carnival Cruise Line commercials where everyone is partying down. But I am not a party-down-on-a-cruise-ship type of person. When I go on vacation, I like to explore places I've never visited or return to locations I love: ambling into small family restaurants and town squares, sitting on park benches while I watch locals meander by, romping with my kids, and investigating trails and roads previously unknown. I enjoy strolling through museums, watching local theater, wandering around national parks, and chatting with people I normally wouldn't meet. I also like to sometimes just quietly read my book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, let's just say that my vacation wasn't quite what I would have planned had I been persuasive enough to convince my family where to vacation this holiday season. I will discuss the food on my own private Love Boat in another post -- as I just can't muster up the energy to rehash it now -- but this week I want to talk about something amazing I ate while away. It's the beginning of a new year, and I have warm and fuzzy thoughts of being less negative (we'll see if I can carry this through to February), so I want to start off with a post about something delicious. Luckily, in the midst of all that cruise ship hubbub, we found one truly amazing meal, and of course it was on land.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/A-little-music-at-Marisa.jpg\" alt=\"A little music at Marisa\" title=\"A little music at Marisa\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9538\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After three days at sea, our enormous polluting ship sailed into beautiful Puerto Vallarta. While the rest of our group took off to the jungle to zip line for a couple of hours, my family and I taxied downtown to meet fellow Babber \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/kim-laidlaw/\">Kim Laidlaw\u003c/a> (who just happened to be staying an hour away) and her husband Keith (looking very tall and Scottish in the Mexican sun). Now although I usually research restaurants before I leave for vacation, I must admit that I failed to do so this time around. Maybe it was because our time in each port was limited to a few hours, or maybe it was due to my resentment at having to go on a cruise. Whatever the case, I was remiss. Luckily Kim is a much better woman than I. Before taking a taxi to meet us, she had researched the perfect place to eat fish tacos while visiting the beautiful \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/video/screenplay/vi1383006233/\">Night of the Iguana\u003c/a> location city of Puerto Vallarta. So while the other tourists made their way to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bubbagump.com/locations/puerto_vallarta.html\">Bubba Gump Shrimp Company\u003c/a> (there really is one of those in every seaside tourist town) our group meandered about 8 blocks away from the crowded boardwalk and into the city where we found a small aluminum taco cart called Marisma Fish Taco (yes, I realize \"Marisma Fish Tacos\" sounds more catchy, but the sign left off that last \"s\").\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marisma is the type of eating establishment I dream of finding while on vacation. With locals crowding the few stools available to taste the pleasures of its fried fish, smoked marlin and shrimp tacos, it's the real deal. Marisma, from what I understand with my limited Spanish, is the lovely woman who runs it all and I am witness to the fact that she and the other women who work there are masters at making Baja-style tacos. While orders are being taken and patrons eat at the counter or at the few tables set up on the neighboring sidewalk, one lovely young woman continually pulls handfuls of masa from a small mountain of the stuff and grills freshly-made tortillas while another woman, who I think is Marisma, cooks and runs the show behind her. And here they are...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/Ry0j9MU0nAE&hl=en_US&fs=1&\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/Ry0j9MU0nAE&hl=en_US&fs=1&\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are salsas set up on the counter, red and green with just the right amount of spice, but the real show stopper is the chile and onion compote set in large glass goblets. This mixture -- picante, tangy, and sweet all at the same time -- is the perfect accompaniment to the fish taco, or really anything for that matter. I wish I had some to slather on my chicken at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/smoked-marlin-taco.jpg\" alt=\"smoked marlin taco\" title=\"smoked marlin taco\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9540\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you taste those tacos you know why, in a city full of food, people stand in line for their lunch here. I started with the smoked marlin taco, which is served in a gorgeous red sauce that wakes up the tongue and makes it dance. I then went on to the house specialty: fish tacos. These are, in essence, perfect. Dorado covered in the simplest of batters, fried until golden, crisp and beautiful and then set inside a tortilla fresh off the grill with a topping of crema and cabbage. After days of heavily sauced mediocrity on board the ship, my taste buds sighed in relief. I devoured the first taco in a few seconds, so then had to order another one, pacing myself so I could slowly enjoy the flavors. While listening to a man strum on the guitar nearby, I marveled at how such simple ingredients could coalesce to create the perfect taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/fish-taco.jpg\" alt=\"fish taco\" title=\"fish taco\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9539\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I chatted with the nice man beside me. He had grown up in Puerto Vallarta and ate at Marisma a few times a week. At 13 pesos a taco (about one U.S. dollar) it was a bargain for both tourists and locals alike. Kim and Keith treated my family to our feast, which came out to about $20 for the six of us, which included sodas. Thanks, Laidlaws!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After returning to our ship that evening, my family and I talked glowingly of our lunch that day. While tuxedoed waiters flitted about us, serving us a very forgettable meal on china plates, our thoughts were with those fish tacos. \u003cem>Yo sueño con Marisma Fish Taco\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nMarisma Fish Taco\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n320 Calle Naranjo\u003cbr>\nPuerto Vallarta\u003cbr>\nMexico. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Calistoga: A Weekend in Food (and Drink)",
"title": "Calistoga: A Weekend in Food (and Drink)",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/roasteryfirstphoto.jpg\" alt=\"The Calistoga Roastery\" title=\"The Calistoga Roastery\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9474\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Calistoga Roastery: best choice for a morning fuel stop\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a kid, this time of year always brought about great vacations. When my sisters and I were in school, my parents would load us into the Volvo station wagon and we'd usually go up to Tahoe to ski (that was major when you think about navigating small kids, ski rental lines, and the occasional blizzard). If not Tahoe, we'd travel to Florida to visit relatives. But now, my sisters and I are grown adults and we all have busy lives and differing schedules, so it's tough to get everyone home with enough time to get out of Dodge even for a few days. But this year we were lucky. Zoe's home from college. Rachael flew in from Seattle. And my mom whisked us all up to Calistoga for a weekend at \u003ca href=\"http://www.solagecalistoga.com/\">Solage\u003c/a> where we ate and drank our way through town. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Calistoga is a small, sleepy town in the Napa Valley that literally sits on top of thermal hot springs, so its famous for its mineral waters and fortified mud (and thus, many resorts and spas have cropped up around the area). I hadn't been to Calistoga and was pleasantly surprised that a lot of the pretension of restaurants and wineries in the Napa Valley is noticeably absent. In many ways, if you look past the tourists, it's still very much a small, humble town. The downtown consists of a few bars and restaurants, a bank and a coffee shop, and a smattering of small retail shops. Then of course, there's \u003ca href=\"http://www.indianspringscalistoga.com/\">Indian Springs\u003c/a> and a few other resorts. After exploring downtown (it won’t take you long), take a drive (or hop on your bike like we did) and you can experience a great deal of what the town has to offer. As we headed home, we took a survey and decided on our \"best of\" list. So here are the Gordon sister's favorite places to grab a bite while in Calistoga and--if you're anything like us--in between glasses of wine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fueling up for the day: Calistoga Roastery\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/calistogaroastery.jpg\" alt=\"Calistoga Roastery\" title=\"Calistoga Roastery\" width=\"500\" height=\"294\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9477\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Downtown Calistoga's favorite spot for a cup of strong coffee\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the local coffee shop in Calistoga. Owners Clive Richardson and Jack Martin opened \u003ca href=\"http://calistogaroastery.com/\">Calistoga Roastery\u003c/a> in the summer of 1999 after Clive left the corporate coffee world in San Francisco looking for something smaller and more independent. They roast their own beans, and supply coffee to many of the local resorts. And after tasting a cup, you can tell why. I noticed many of the locals stopping in to sit and have one of the bottomless cups of strong drip coffee. But they do a wide variety of espresso drinks and teas as well, and offer freshly baked muffins, scones, and housemade granola. We rode over one morning after a late dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bouchonbistro.com/\">Bouchon\u003c/a>, so no one was feeling much like food but we nursed our lattes on the benches outside and took in the downtown sites for a good hour or so (great people-watching). Inside, there were tables of locals talking about their Christmas holidays and what they were up to for New Year's Eve. A group of eight older men were seated at the big communal table by the window reading the paper and gossiping about their wives. There's definitely an old-timeyness about the place with its big open space, no-nonsense baristas, welcoming wooden bar with stools, and locals moseying in wearing cowboy hats. If you're a fan of caramel frou-frou drinks from Starbucks, this may not be your place. But if you actually like to taste the espresso in your latte, don't miss it.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://calistogaroastery.com/\">Calistoga Roastery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1426 Lincoln Avenue\u003cbr>\nCalistoga, CA 94515\u003cbr>\n(707) 942- 5757\u003cbr>\nHours: Daily 6:30am–6pm \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lunch (or rolling breakfast): Café Sarafornia\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/sarafornia.jpg\" alt=\"Cafe Sarafornia\" title=\"Cafe Sarafornia\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9479\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Checking out the large morning menu at Café Sarafornia\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sam Brannan was the man touted for originally discovering the town of Calistoga. The story goes a little something like this: Brannan bought the geyser lands in the 1860s, promoting it as the \"Saratoga of California\" (after Saratoga, Springs in New York). One evening after having a few too many, he declared instead, \"I will make this place the Calistoga of Sarafornia.\" Thus the name of the town, and thus the name of this quaint, old-fashioned diner. Now let's be honest about \u003ca href=\"http://cafesarafornia.com/\">Café Sarafornia\u003c/a>. Is it the best food you've ever had? No, no it's not. But they've got some things going for them, and I'll definitely be back next time I'm in town. First, they serve breakfast all day long (we'd originally gone for lunch but couldn't help ordering from the breakfast menu--as were many of the tables), which will score you points in my book. It's decent, reliable diner food with booths situated around a wide circular bar where locals saddle up and chat with the curt yet efficient waitresses. I had the Wildcat Scrambler with chicken apple sausage, mushrooms, and Swiss cheese and some delightfully greasy (and salty) hash browns. My sister Rachael went big with the chicken-fried steak, and my mom got the 2+2+2 (2 pancakes or French toast + 2 eggs + 2 bacon or sausage links)--kind of the perfect meal and one I don't often see on breakfast menus any more. So go knowing you won't get waited on hand and foot nor will you find artisan or organic ingredients on the menu. But go knowing it truly is the perfect spot to fill up on some hearty sustenance before heading out to the wineries--after all, you need a little something to soak up those tannins.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://cafesarafornia.com/\">Café Sarafornia\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1413 Lincoln Avenue\u003cbr>\nCalistoga, CA 94515\u003cbr>\n(707) 942-0555\u003cbr>\nHours: Daily 7am-2:30pm (lunch starting at 11am)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dinner: SolBar at Solage Resort\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/solbar.jpg\" alt=\"SolBar at Solage Resort\" title=\"SolBar at Solage Resort\" width=\"500\" height=\"167\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9481\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The inviting entrance leading up to SolBar\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'll admit it: I was hesitant when my mom told me she made reservations at the hotel restaurant. In my experience, that never bodes well. Believe me when I tell you I'll never, ever have those thoughts again. Our dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://www.solagecalistoga.com/dining/\">SolBar\u003c/a> was the best meal I've had in a very long time--and I've done a lot of eating out this holiday season. Let me start by saying the meal wasn't inexpensive: you've got to save your pennies...or bring your mom. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now it's obviously winter, but I've vowed to come back in the summer when we can sit outside on the outdoor patio and enjoy the oversized fire pit, bocce ball courts, and little lights strung throughout the trees. The dining room was inviting with its high ceilings, lovely big fire, and roomy tables with little Heath vases and local flowers. Knowing that SolBar had received their first Michelin Star, we were all expecting it to be a bit stuffy. But it was actually the most comfortable, laid-back fine dining experience. The servers seemed to always know when you needed something and anticipated questions and pairing advice, but were never pesky or overbearing. The menu is organized around the seasons with organic, local ingredients. I started with the Winter Squash Veloute, a creamy soup with crispy sage leaves and granny smith apples. Then I chose the Preserved Lemon and Chickpea Stew with braised kale, roasted garlic, tomato confit, and harissa. Looking back, I'm not sure why I went the vegetarian route, as the menu boasts other dishes including a delicate cod, beef short ribs with polenta, and their infamous \"Lucky Pig,\" a dish meant for two comprised of slow roasted pork shoulder served with black sesame crepes, pickled pineapple, mongolian peanuts, and lettuce cups. For dessert, we shared the well-regarded warm donut holes (you must try these!) and a spice cake with candied persimmon. Lingering over Irish Coffees, conversation had come to a bit of a halt and it was getting late, but no one wanted to leave. We didn't want the experience to end, so we sat staring at the fire--and ordered another round of coffees. Then, we were back the next morning for breakfast.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.solagecalistoga.com/dining/\">SolBar\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.solagecalistoga.com/\">Solage Resort\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n755 Silverado Trail\u003cbr>\nCalistoga, CA 94515\u003cbr>\n(707) 226-0850\u003cbr>\nHours: Breakfast: 7 am-11am; Lunch 11:30 am-3pm\u003cbr>\nDinner: 5:30 pm-9pm; Lounge 11am-11pm; Sunday brunch 11:30 am-3 pm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Small Local Wineries to Love:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/lavavine.jpg\" alt=\"Lava Vine\" title=\"Lava Vine\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9484\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Lava Vine, a sweet little family-run winery with incredible Chardonnay and Zinfandel\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.lavavine.com/\">Lava Vine\u003c/a>: 965 Silverado Trail in Calistoga CA 94515; (707) 942-9500\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.augustbriggswines.com/\">August Briggs\u003c/a>: 333 Silverado Trail in Calistoga, CA 94515; (707) 942-4912\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Other Great Calistoga Food Destinations:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.brannansgrill.com/\">Brannan's Grill\u003c/a>: 1374 Lincoln Avenue in Calistoga, CA 94515; (707) 942-2233\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.calistogainn.com/\">Calistoga Inn and Brewery\u003c/a>: 1250 Lincoln Avenue in Calistoga, CA 94515; (707) 942-4101\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.wappobar.com/\">Wappo Bar and Bistro\u003c/a>: 1226 Washington Street in Calistoga, CA 94515; (707) 942-4712\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.jolerestaurant.com/\">Jole\u003c/a>: 1457 Lincoln Avenue in Calistoga, CA 94515; (707) 942-5938\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/palisades-deli-cafe-calistoga\">Palisades Deli\u003c/a>: 1458 Lincoln Avenue in Calistoga, CA 94515; (707) 942-0145\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Calistoga is a small, sleepy town in the Napa Valley that literally sits on top of thermal hot springs, so its famous for its mineral waters and fortified mud (and thus, many resorts and spas have cropped up around the area). I hadn't been to Calistoga and was pleasantly surprised that a lot of the pretension of restaurants and wineries in the Napa Valley is noticeably absent.",
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"description": "Calistoga is a small, sleepy town in the Napa Valley that literally sits on top of thermal hot springs, so its famous for its mineral waters and fortified mud (and thus, many resorts and spas have cropped up around the area). I hadn't been to Calistoga and was pleasantly surprised that a lot of the pretension of restaurants and wineries in the Napa Valley is noticeably absent.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/roasteryfirstphoto.jpg\" alt=\"The Calistoga Roastery\" title=\"The Calistoga Roastery\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9474\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Calistoga Roastery: best choice for a morning fuel stop\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a kid, this time of year always brought about great vacations. When my sisters and I were in school, my parents would load us into the Volvo station wagon and we'd usually go up to Tahoe to ski (that was major when you think about navigating small kids, ski rental lines, and the occasional blizzard). If not Tahoe, we'd travel to Florida to visit relatives. But now, my sisters and I are grown adults and we all have busy lives and differing schedules, so it's tough to get everyone home with enough time to get out of Dodge even for a few days. But this year we were lucky. Zoe's home from college. Rachael flew in from Seattle. And my mom whisked us all up to Calistoga for a weekend at \u003ca href=\"http://www.solagecalistoga.com/\">Solage\u003c/a> where we ate and drank our way through town. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Calistoga is a small, sleepy town in the Napa Valley that literally sits on top of thermal hot springs, so its famous for its mineral waters and fortified mud (and thus, many resorts and spas have cropped up around the area). I hadn't been to Calistoga and was pleasantly surprised that a lot of the pretension of restaurants and wineries in the Napa Valley is noticeably absent. In many ways, if you look past the tourists, it's still very much a small, humble town. The downtown consists of a few bars and restaurants, a bank and a coffee shop, and a smattering of small retail shops. Then of course, there's \u003ca href=\"http://www.indianspringscalistoga.com/\">Indian Springs\u003c/a> and a few other resorts. After exploring downtown (it won’t take you long), take a drive (or hop on your bike like we did) and you can experience a great deal of what the town has to offer. As we headed home, we took a survey and decided on our \"best of\" list. So here are the Gordon sister's favorite places to grab a bite while in Calistoga and--if you're anything like us--in between glasses of wine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fueling up for the day: Calistoga Roastery\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/calistogaroastery.jpg\" alt=\"Calistoga Roastery\" title=\"Calistoga Roastery\" width=\"500\" height=\"294\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9477\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Downtown Calistoga's favorite spot for a cup of strong coffee\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the local coffee shop in Calistoga. Owners Clive Richardson and Jack Martin opened \u003ca href=\"http://calistogaroastery.com/\">Calistoga Roastery\u003c/a> in the summer of 1999 after Clive left the corporate coffee world in San Francisco looking for something smaller and more independent. They roast their own beans, and supply coffee to many of the local resorts. And after tasting a cup, you can tell why. I noticed many of the locals stopping in to sit and have one of the bottomless cups of strong drip coffee. But they do a wide variety of espresso drinks and teas as well, and offer freshly baked muffins, scones, and housemade granola. We rode over one morning after a late dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bouchonbistro.com/\">Bouchon\u003c/a>, so no one was feeling much like food but we nursed our lattes on the benches outside and took in the downtown sites for a good hour or so (great people-watching). Inside, there were tables of locals talking about their Christmas holidays and what they were up to for New Year's Eve. A group of eight older men were seated at the big communal table by the window reading the paper and gossiping about their wives. There's definitely an old-timeyness about the place with its big open space, no-nonsense baristas, welcoming wooden bar with stools, and locals moseying in wearing cowboy hats. If you're a fan of caramel frou-frou drinks from Starbucks, this may not be your place. But if you actually like to taste the espresso in your latte, don't miss it.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://calistogaroastery.com/\">Calistoga Roastery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1426 Lincoln Avenue\u003cbr>\nCalistoga, CA 94515\u003cbr>\n(707) 942- 5757\u003cbr>\nHours: Daily 6:30am–6pm \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lunch (or rolling breakfast): Café Sarafornia\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/sarafornia.jpg\" alt=\"Cafe Sarafornia\" title=\"Cafe Sarafornia\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9479\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Checking out the large morning menu at Café Sarafornia\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sam Brannan was the man touted for originally discovering the town of Calistoga. The story goes a little something like this: Brannan bought the geyser lands in the 1860s, promoting it as the \"Saratoga of California\" (after Saratoga, Springs in New York). One evening after having a few too many, he declared instead, \"I will make this place the Calistoga of Sarafornia.\" Thus the name of the town, and thus the name of this quaint, old-fashioned diner. Now let's be honest about \u003ca href=\"http://cafesarafornia.com/\">Café Sarafornia\u003c/a>. Is it the best food you've ever had? No, no it's not. But they've got some things going for them, and I'll definitely be back next time I'm in town. First, they serve breakfast all day long (we'd originally gone for lunch but couldn't help ordering from the breakfast menu--as were many of the tables), which will score you points in my book. It's decent, reliable diner food with booths situated around a wide circular bar where locals saddle up and chat with the curt yet efficient waitresses. I had the Wildcat Scrambler with chicken apple sausage, mushrooms, and Swiss cheese and some delightfully greasy (and salty) hash browns. My sister Rachael went big with the chicken-fried steak, and my mom got the 2+2+2 (2 pancakes or French toast + 2 eggs + 2 bacon or sausage links)--kind of the perfect meal and one I don't often see on breakfast menus any more. So go knowing you won't get waited on hand and foot nor will you find artisan or organic ingredients on the menu. But go knowing it truly is the perfect spot to fill up on some hearty sustenance before heading out to the wineries--after all, you need a little something to soak up those tannins.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://cafesarafornia.com/\">Café Sarafornia\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1413 Lincoln Avenue\u003cbr>\nCalistoga, CA 94515\u003cbr>\n(707) 942-0555\u003cbr>\nHours: Daily 7am-2:30pm (lunch starting at 11am)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dinner: SolBar at Solage Resort\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/solbar.jpg\" alt=\"SolBar at Solage Resort\" title=\"SolBar at Solage Resort\" width=\"500\" height=\"167\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9481\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The inviting entrance leading up to SolBar\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'll admit it: I was hesitant when my mom told me she made reservations at the hotel restaurant. In my experience, that never bodes well. Believe me when I tell you I'll never, ever have those thoughts again. Our dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://www.solagecalistoga.com/dining/\">SolBar\u003c/a> was the best meal I've had in a very long time--and I've done a lot of eating out this holiday season. Let me start by saying the meal wasn't inexpensive: you've got to save your pennies...or bring your mom. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now it's obviously winter, but I've vowed to come back in the summer when we can sit outside on the outdoor patio and enjoy the oversized fire pit, bocce ball courts, and little lights strung throughout the trees. The dining room was inviting with its high ceilings, lovely big fire, and roomy tables with little Heath vases and local flowers. Knowing that SolBar had received their first Michelin Star, we were all expecting it to be a bit stuffy. But it was actually the most comfortable, laid-back fine dining experience. The servers seemed to always know when you needed something and anticipated questions and pairing advice, but were never pesky or overbearing. The menu is organized around the seasons with organic, local ingredients. I started with the Winter Squash Veloute, a creamy soup with crispy sage leaves and granny smith apples. Then I chose the Preserved Lemon and Chickpea Stew with braised kale, roasted garlic, tomato confit, and harissa. Looking back, I'm not sure why I went the vegetarian route, as the menu boasts other dishes including a delicate cod, beef short ribs with polenta, and their infamous \"Lucky Pig,\" a dish meant for two comprised of slow roasted pork shoulder served with black sesame crepes, pickled pineapple, mongolian peanuts, and lettuce cups. For dessert, we shared the well-regarded warm donut holes (you must try these!) and a spice cake with candied persimmon. Lingering over Irish Coffees, conversation had come to a bit of a halt and it was getting late, but no one wanted to leave. We didn't want the experience to end, so we sat staring at the fire--and ordered another round of coffees. Then, we were back the next morning for breakfast.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.solagecalistoga.com/dining/\">SolBar\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.solagecalistoga.com/\">Solage Resort\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n755 Silverado Trail\u003cbr>\nCalistoga, CA 94515\u003cbr>\n(707) 226-0850\u003cbr>\nHours: Breakfast: 7 am-11am; Lunch 11:30 am-3pm\u003cbr>\nDinner: 5:30 pm-9pm; Lounge 11am-11pm; Sunday brunch 11:30 am-3 pm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Small Local Wineries to Love:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/lavavine.jpg\" alt=\"Lava Vine\" title=\"Lava Vine\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9484\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Lava Vine, a sweet little family-run winery with incredible Chardonnay and Zinfandel\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.lavavine.com/\">Lava Vine\u003c/a>: 965 Silverado Trail in Calistoga CA 94515; (707) 942-9500\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.augustbriggswines.com/\">August Briggs\u003c/a>: 333 Silverado Trail in Calistoga, CA 94515; (707) 942-4912\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Other Great Calistoga Food Destinations:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.brannansgrill.com/\">Brannan's Grill\u003c/a>: 1374 Lincoln Avenue in Calistoga, CA 94515; (707) 942-2233\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.calistogainn.com/\">Calistoga Inn and Brewery\u003c/a>: 1250 Lincoln Avenue in Calistoga, CA 94515; (707) 942-4101\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.wappobar.com/\">Wappo Bar and Bistro\u003c/a>: 1226 Washington Street in Calistoga, CA 94515; (707) 942-4712\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.jolerestaurant.com/\">Jole\u003c/a>: 1457 Lincoln Avenue in Calistoga, CA 94515; (707) 942-5938\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/palisades-deli-cafe-calistoga\">Palisades Deli\u003c/a>: 1458 Lincoln Avenue in Calistoga, CA 94515; (707) 942-0145\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Vietnamese Coffee: In Pursuit of the Perfect Cup",
"title": "Vietnamese Coffee: In Pursuit of the Perfect Cup",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnamese-coffee-slow-drip.jpg\" alt=\"vietnamese coffee slow drip\" title=\"vietnamese coffee slow drip\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8283\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese Coffee, Trung Nguyen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoying your slow-drip coffee is a quintessential part of life in Vietnam. Whether you're stoopin' it, shouting your order down the street to the local coffee cart on the corner, or enjoying a carefully prepared cup in an upscale coffee house, Vietnamese coffee is meant to be savored and enjoyed to the max. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One reason is the time it takes to brew a cup. Vietnamese coffee is not for the rushy-rushy. Single servings are brewed through a simple metal filter called a \u003cem>Phin\u003c/em>, which takes a good 5-10 minutes to produce a cup. The filter is fitted over the top of a cup, or glass (if you're making iced coffee), the grounds are placed inside the filter (about the same size grind as what you would use for a French press), a small weighted piece is placed on top, and then hot water is poured into the chamber. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnamese-coffee-phin-filter.jpg\" alt=\"vietnamese coffee phin filter\" title=\"vietnamese coffee phin filter\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8282\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese coffee, Phin filter\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another reason to approach the experience with leisure is simply the heavenly flavor. Like espresso, Vietnamese coffee is deep and rich, and a little goes a long way. What makes it really stand out though in my mind, is its incredible buttery aroma and flavor. It wasn't until I bought some roasted beans from a mom-and-pop coffee/tea shop that I learned why exactly the coffee tasted so buttery -- you got it, it's because the beans are actually roasted in clarified butter! Brilliant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As if that doesn't sound decadent enough, sweetened condensed milk is typically used in lieu of cream and sugar both for practical reasons (it doesn't have to be refrigerated) and for taste (Have you had sweetened condensed milk lately? Think creamy, thick, dulce de leche goodness...in your coffee...\u003cem>everyday\u003c/em>!). This is why Vietnamese coffee is a habit I could really get used to. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/iced-vietnamese-coffee.jpg\" alt=\"iced vietnamese coffee\" title=\"iced vietnamese coffee\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-8279\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese Iced Coffee (Ca Phe Sua Da)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Saigon, with so much fantastic coffee everywhere we turned, it was tough to be too discriminating. So, I left it to the locals to show me the way. Vietnam is a country of food-lovers and total coffee addicts. My favorite conversation starter was asking a local: Where is the best food in town? People would bubble over with recommendations and loved talking about their favorite food, where to get it, and how to eat it. Everyone had an opinion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One afternoon, over a Lazy Susan laden with dim sum, an impassioned discussion over the most delectable \u003cem>banh xeo\u003c/em>, the silkiest tofu, the best hand-pulled noodles with half a crab on top, turned into a full-on debate over where to grab coffee afterward. One fellow named Nguyen insisted, \"The best coffee is at my sister's place,\" and after a few nods of acquiescence from his accompanying friends, we were off to taste for ourselves if he was indeed correct.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We hopped on our motorbikes and went caravanning off through the maze of commuters. Put-putting over main highways, over to District 7 we went...on a mission for the perfect \u003cstrong>Ca Phe Sua Da\u003c/strong> (iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk). It was spontaneous, exhilarating, and as the wind whipped through my hair, I couldn't help but envision Anthony Bourdain's crew on our tracks, kicking up some dust behind us. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/saigon-motorbikes.jpg\" alt=\"saigon motorbikes\" title=\"saigon motorbikes\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8281\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Saigon Motorbike Ebb and Flow\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What we came upon was a breezy little oasis of an internet cafe, tucked away amongst sprawling new developments and construction sites. The cafe itself is called \u003cstrong>Goc Peo\u003c/strong>, but the main signage outside speaks to the main reason for visiting -- the rich and aromatic \u003cstrong>Trung Nguyen\u003c/strong> coffee served. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/coffee-time-at-trung-nguyen.jpg\" alt=\"coffee time at trung nguyen\" title=\"coffee time at trung nguyen\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8278\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Coffee time at Trung Nguyen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trung Nguyen seems to have made a nice business for itself, their chains and signs are all over Saigon, as well as the airport gift shop, and while the prices are expensive by Vietnamese standards, they are still relatively cheap by US standards (a cup of their famous \"Legendee Coffee\" was about $2 USD). Incidentally, Trung Nguyen has a pretty comprehensive website that explains all about what defines Vietnamese coffee and makes it unique, namely:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1)\tThe topography of the Annamite Range has allowed for a diverse variety of beans to flourish in Southeast Asia. By \u003cstrong>blending a variety of bean species\u003c/strong> (Arabica, Robusta, Excelsa and Catimor) rather than sticking to a single-source (like 100% Arabica), a broader flavor range is achieved.\u003cbr>\n2)\tA \u003cstrong>lower-temperature, longer roasting process\u003c/strong> that is stable and consistent.\u003cbr>\n3)\tRoasting the beans in \u003cstrong>clarified butter\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another interesting fact I learned about Trung Nguyen's coffee is that they produce what they call their Legendee Coffee, a \"unique enzymatically-treated coffee that releases flavors bound in the beans and not released under ordinary processing.\" The Legendee Coffee was what Nguyen brought us to taste. Read more about the \u003ca href=\"http://www.trung-nguyen-online.com/legendee.html\">Legend of Legendee\u003c/a> and how modern science has attempted to reproduce the infamously expensive (and kinda gross) Kopi Luwak coffee, made with the help of the weasel-like civit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My final verdict? The Legendee was worth experiencing, although a little intense for me to want to drink on a daily basis. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/iced-vietnamese-coffee-at-trung-nguyen.jpg\" alt=\"iced vietnamese coffee at trung nguyen\" title=\"iced vietnamese coffee at trung nguyen\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8280\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese Iced Coffee, Trung Nguyen \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless, it was a joy to spend an afternoon in pursuit of the perfect cup with company who really loved their coffee. Company who loved it so much, they continued on their way, buzzing away to the next cup as we rookie tourists bid farewell. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>ADDRESS\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Goc Peo\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSo 16 Duong 8B, KDC Trung Son\u003cbr>\nNguyen Van Cu noi dai – TP. Ho Chi Minh City\u003cbr>\nVietnam\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Like espresso, Vietnamese coffee is deep and rich, and a little goes a long way. What makes it really stand out though is its incredible buttery aroma and flavor. Add a generous drizzle of sweetened condensed milk and you have a habit that will be hard to shake. ",
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"description": "Like espresso, Vietnamese coffee is deep and rich, and a little goes a long way. What makes it really stand out though is its incredible buttery aroma and flavor. Add a generous drizzle of sweetened condensed milk and you have a habit that will be hard to shake. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnamese-coffee-slow-drip.jpg\" alt=\"vietnamese coffee slow drip\" title=\"vietnamese coffee slow drip\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8283\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese Coffee, Trung Nguyen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoying your slow-drip coffee is a quintessential part of life in Vietnam. Whether you're stoopin' it, shouting your order down the street to the local coffee cart on the corner, or enjoying a carefully prepared cup in an upscale coffee house, Vietnamese coffee is meant to be savored and enjoyed to the max. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One reason is the time it takes to brew a cup. Vietnamese coffee is not for the rushy-rushy. Single servings are brewed through a simple metal filter called a \u003cem>Phin\u003c/em>, which takes a good 5-10 minutes to produce a cup. The filter is fitted over the top of a cup, or glass (if you're making iced coffee), the grounds are placed inside the filter (about the same size grind as what you would use for a French press), a small weighted piece is placed on top, and then hot water is poured into the chamber. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnamese-coffee-phin-filter.jpg\" alt=\"vietnamese coffee phin filter\" title=\"vietnamese coffee phin filter\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8282\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese coffee, Phin filter\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another reason to approach the experience with leisure is simply the heavenly flavor. Like espresso, Vietnamese coffee is deep and rich, and a little goes a long way. What makes it really stand out though in my mind, is its incredible buttery aroma and flavor. It wasn't until I bought some roasted beans from a mom-and-pop coffee/tea shop that I learned why exactly the coffee tasted so buttery -- you got it, it's because the beans are actually roasted in clarified butter! Brilliant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As if that doesn't sound decadent enough, sweetened condensed milk is typically used in lieu of cream and sugar both for practical reasons (it doesn't have to be refrigerated) and for taste (Have you had sweetened condensed milk lately? Think creamy, thick, dulce de leche goodness...in your coffee...\u003cem>everyday\u003c/em>!). This is why Vietnamese coffee is a habit I could really get used to. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/iced-vietnamese-coffee.jpg\" alt=\"iced vietnamese coffee\" title=\"iced vietnamese coffee\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-8279\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese Iced Coffee (Ca Phe Sua Da)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Saigon, with so much fantastic coffee everywhere we turned, it was tough to be too discriminating. So, I left it to the locals to show me the way. Vietnam is a country of food-lovers and total coffee addicts. My favorite conversation starter was asking a local: Where is the best food in town? People would bubble over with recommendations and loved talking about their favorite food, where to get it, and how to eat it. Everyone had an opinion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One afternoon, over a Lazy Susan laden with dim sum, an impassioned discussion over the most delectable \u003cem>banh xeo\u003c/em>, the silkiest tofu, the best hand-pulled noodles with half a crab on top, turned into a full-on debate over where to grab coffee afterward. One fellow named Nguyen insisted, \"The best coffee is at my sister's place,\" and after a few nods of acquiescence from his accompanying friends, we were off to taste for ourselves if he was indeed correct.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We hopped on our motorbikes and went caravanning off through the maze of commuters. Put-putting over main highways, over to District 7 we went...on a mission for the perfect \u003cstrong>Ca Phe Sua Da\u003c/strong> (iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk). It was spontaneous, exhilarating, and as the wind whipped through my hair, I couldn't help but envision Anthony Bourdain's crew on our tracks, kicking up some dust behind us. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/saigon-motorbikes.jpg\" alt=\"saigon motorbikes\" title=\"saigon motorbikes\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8281\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Saigon Motorbike Ebb and Flow\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What we came upon was a breezy little oasis of an internet cafe, tucked away amongst sprawling new developments and construction sites. The cafe itself is called \u003cstrong>Goc Peo\u003c/strong>, but the main signage outside speaks to the main reason for visiting -- the rich and aromatic \u003cstrong>Trung Nguyen\u003c/strong> coffee served. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/coffee-time-at-trung-nguyen.jpg\" alt=\"coffee time at trung nguyen\" title=\"coffee time at trung nguyen\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8278\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Coffee time at Trung Nguyen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trung Nguyen seems to have made a nice business for itself, their chains and signs are all over Saigon, as well as the airport gift shop, and while the prices are expensive by Vietnamese standards, they are still relatively cheap by US standards (a cup of their famous \"Legendee Coffee\" was about $2 USD). Incidentally, Trung Nguyen has a pretty comprehensive website that explains all about what defines Vietnamese coffee and makes it unique, namely:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1)\tThe topography of the Annamite Range has allowed for a diverse variety of beans to flourish in Southeast Asia. By \u003cstrong>blending a variety of bean species\u003c/strong> (Arabica, Robusta, Excelsa and Catimor) rather than sticking to a single-source (like 100% Arabica), a broader flavor range is achieved.\u003cbr>\n2)\tA \u003cstrong>lower-temperature, longer roasting process\u003c/strong> that is stable and consistent.\u003cbr>\n3)\tRoasting the beans in \u003cstrong>clarified butter\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another interesting fact I learned about Trung Nguyen's coffee is that they produce what they call their Legendee Coffee, a \"unique enzymatically-treated coffee that releases flavors bound in the beans and not released under ordinary processing.\" The Legendee Coffee was what Nguyen brought us to taste. Read more about the \u003ca href=\"http://www.trung-nguyen-online.com/legendee.html\">Legend of Legendee\u003c/a> and how modern science has attempted to reproduce the infamously expensive (and kinda gross) Kopi Luwak coffee, made with the help of the weasel-like civit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My final verdict? The Legendee was worth experiencing, although a little intense for me to want to drink on a daily basis. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/iced-vietnamese-coffee-at-trung-nguyen.jpg\" alt=\"iced vietnamese coffee at trung nguyen\" title=\"iced vietnamese coffee at trung nguyen\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8280\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese Iced Coffee, Trung Nguyen \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless, it was a joy to spend an afternoon in pursuit of the perfect cup with company who really loved their coffee. Company who loved it so much, they continued on their way, buzzing away to the next cup as we rookie tourists bid farewell. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>ADDRESS\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Goc Peo\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSo 16 Duong 8B, KDC Trung Son\u003cbr>\nNguyen Van Cu noi dai – TP. Ho Chi Minh City\u003cbr>\nVietnam\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"marketplace": {
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"masters-of-scale": {
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"mindshift": {
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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"morning-edition": {
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"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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},
"pbs-newshour": {
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},
"perspectives": {
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"order": 14
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"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
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"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/planetmoney.jpg",
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"link": "/radio/program/planet-money",
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"politicalbreakdown": {
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"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
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"order": 5
},
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.possible.fm/",
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"source": "Possible"
},
"link": "/radio/program/possible",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"
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},
"pri-the-world": {
"id": "pri-the-world",
"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 2pm-3pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
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