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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Poison-Crush.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Poison-Crush.jpg\" alt=\"Poison crush. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"400\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-81256\">\u003c/a>It’s true that travel can broaden the mind but, in rare cases, it can also lead to an international celebrity killing spree.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I’d like to take this opportunity to apologize for mine here and now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It started so innocently. I was sixteen years old and on my first trip to Europe. I sat next to an auburn-haired 14 year-old, who did her best to impress me with her general nonchalance regarding celebrity. Her father, it turned out, was a popular Emmy-winning actor on a hit television show. She mentioned that Peter Sellers occasionally slept on the family couch as casually as another 14 year-old girl might mention she occasionally had pudding for breakfast. Knowing she may have seen Inspector Clouseau in his pajamas, I was under the impression that no one famous could cause her to lose her poise and was therefore rightly impressed. I wasn’t much older than she and was already guilty of nearly wetting myself with excitement upon witnessing \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFnqhefkQJw\" target=\"_blank\">Ann Miller\u003c/a> allowing her dog to defecate on my aunt and uncle’s front lawn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But her cool, Hollywood attitude was destroyed on that flight to London. Restless after hours of sitting, my new friend decided to stretch her legs. Her preferred method of calisthenics included climbing up the spiral staircase of our Pan Am jet which led directly to the first class cabin. I admired her nerve but wondered how long it would take for her to be ejected by a rabidly class-conscious flight attendant. She was gone for what seemed like ages, and when she reappeared somewhere over the North Atlantic, stopped half-way down the steps and stared at me. Or quite possibly through me. Flushed and shaking, she returned to her seat next and whispered, “Cary. Grant.” she halted, “is on this plane. Cary Grant is up \u003cem>there\u003c/em>.” I followed her look upward with my own and we stared at the ceiling as one would stare up at heaven, because Paradise to us at that moment was a first class cabin paved not with clouds, but with red carpet, and populated by a single, silver-haired, cleft-chinned angel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We spent the remainder of the flight more or less silent. We were fortunate enough to be near the front of the plane and so were the first from cattle class to disembark. We spotted the object of our adoration and ran up behind him, then slowed to keep ourselves a few respectful paces behind; our heads tilted in awe at the back of his head. We continued to worship him in this manner for a few minutes until he disappeared behind a door. Quite possibly the men’s room. And just like that, the spell was broken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He died four months later. I was saddened by his death but felt no guilt. I was too young to know that I may have been the cause.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On another excursion six years later, I met my brother at Charles de Gaulle airport to fly back home to California. After catching up on our separate adventures, we checked in for our flight home. Doug thought he might try charming the woman behind the counter to see if he could wrangle a ticket upgrade. My French has never been very good, but I somehow understood the most important part of their conversation: “I’d love to help you sir, however our First and Business Classes are full. But I’ll let you in on a little secret… Audrey Hepburn is on your flight today! And so is Julia Roberts!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Telling two gay men that Audrey Hepburn is on their flight might be considered an extreme breach of security today, but everything was much more relaxed in the 1990s. Except for the two of us, thanks to this important piece of information. I’d planned to grab a drink somewhere before boarding, but that was now out of the question. I was intoxicated enough at the thought of sharing the same cabin-filtered air as my favorite film star in the Hollywood firmament. But our excitement turned to extreme anxiety when we saw Miss Hepburn being escorted onto the plane in a wheelchair, much thinner and frail-looking than usual. For the second time in my life, I was rendered silent by a celebrity over the Atlantic Ocean, but this time it wasn’t from excitement, it was from worry. The eleven-hour flight felt like eleven years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Four months later, I learned of her death from cancer. I nearly cancelled my card night with friends, but decided against it, thinking it might help crowd out the sad news from my mind for a few hours, but the evening ended with my feeling worse that I did before. “Did you guys hear Audrey Hepburn died today?” my friend Itay asked without a hint of emotion. But then again, we were playing poker. I shared with the room what I’d seen of her on my flight home from Paris and told them about the coincidence of Cary Grant, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Well clearly you’re to blame for both of their deaths,” he said. His face was obscured behind his cards. “Remind me never to fly with you– you’re like some time-release killer or something.” As the only gay man in the room, I found both his lack of emotion and the general absence of sympathy for either Miss Hepburn or– more importantly– for me around that table deeply upsetting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Why couldn’t it have been Julia Roberts?” I asked to no one and to everyone. I’d wanted to yell it, but held myself back, so the words came out in a sort of dry squeak, which made me sound exceptionally pathetic. After a moment or two of uncomfortable silence, Itay spoke up. “Just keep an eye on the obituaries. Maybe it’ll turn out you killed her, too.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And with that, the poker game continued more or less interrupted, but I left feeling dirty and diseased. I didn’t speak of this coincidence again for a long time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wouldn’t be the last time I’d be called toxic by another human being, but was I really that lethal? How many other lives had I claimed by simply breathing the same recirculated air? I was tired of feeling responsible for the earthly exits of these two people adored by the entire film-going world. For years, every time I entered the cabin of an airplane, I would scan the first class seats for the elderly famous, hoping to warn them to flee while there was still time. I could no longer bear the weight of my guilty burden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So I decided to rid myself of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There had to be another reason for their deaths. But what sort of connection could two extremely famous and beloved actors from Hollywood’s Golden Age possibly have other than myself? After extensive research, I discovered that Hepburn and Grant had, in fact, met before. They made a film together in 1963 entitled \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMkeqjacvAU\" target=\"_blank\">Charade\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I watched the film over and over, searching for clues– anything that might exonerate myself and free me from my own unintentionally-criminal pain. Did they eat both something that might have spoiled on the set during production, which may have ultimately lead to their deaths 23 and 30 years later? No, they did not. Hepburn only eats in front of Walter Matthau– a chicken sandwich as he speaks with his mouth full of liverwurst. A French onion soup is ordered, but pushed away in favor of cigarettes. Endless amounts of what seem to be breath mints are consumed, but only by her. The one time the two stars sit down together for a meal, they do not touch it, but chose to talk in veiled terms about intercourse instead. There was a double ice cream cone Hepburn manages to get a lick or two from, but the rest winds up on Grant’s lapel. I was near the end of my emotional tether, about to give up on my search, when I suddenly hit upon the key to my own innocence: \u003cstrong>An orange.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Orange.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Orange.jpg\" alt=\"Orange with poison. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"500\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-81255\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fruity object of an innocent but sexually suggestive game may very well have been the agent of their slow deaths. I was certain of it. In one particular scene, the Master of Ceremonies at Le Black Sheep Club has patrons line up to pass an orange from one player’s neck to the other’s without the benefit of their hands. All of the actors who came in contact with the offending citrus are now dead: Hepburn. Grant. Ned Glass, the villain to whom Hepburn passes the orange before fleeing was the first to die in 1984. And what of the ample-fronted woman who starts the game? Her career, at the very least, is dead. It became clear to me that someone– most likely a psychotic prop master or vengeance-seeking wardrobe mistress– had poisoned that orange. I briefly wondered what the motive behind this act of horror could have been, but realized that such things are often a waste of time when dealing with the emotionally deranged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[youtube //www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAcZZtZyfMs]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I looked up various slow-acting poisons which might have been used. Hemlock? No evidence of paralysis present in any of the victims. Dimethylmercury? Possible, but difficult do disguise. Tetrodotoxin? Doubtful. Too fast-acting and difficult to come by unless one has ready access to puffer fish. Cyanide? Too much discoloration. Which leaves but one obvious answer: arsenic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It would be a simple matter to coat an orange with arsenic and let it sit until some of the poison absorbs into the skin of the fruit. The prolonged contact with human flesh– endless takes for what looks like a difficult scene to perfect– would be all the murderer needed to get the contamination ball rolling. But how did he or she continue this deadly scheme and keep the victims’ arsenic levels at a steady but still-undetectable level? In two ways, I have decided: 1) by gifting his victims annual holiday citrus baskets and 2) consistently providing oranges for all major airline carriers with clearly marked instructions which read “For Celebrity Cocktails Only.” It was a brilliant plan. And I felt equally brilliant for uncovering it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before I start popping the champagne to celebrate my freedom from a self-inflicted manslaughter rap, I must remind myself that this is only a theory. And one which has not been thoroughly tested at that. All I can really do is wait and see. So I shall wait for Julia Roberts* to get a few more years on her, book the same flight as she, offer her a cocktail with a slice of innocent-looking orange muddled in it, and keep a close eye on the obituaries for the next four months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81254\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Old-Fashioned.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Old-Fashioned.jpg\" alt=\"Slow-Acting Old Fashioned Cocktail. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81254\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Slow-Acting Old Fashioned Cocktail. Photo: Michael Procopio\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Slow-Acting Old Fashioned Cocktail\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>I have no evidence that Audrey Hepburn and Cary Grant ever shared a round of these beverages together, but I can guarantee that the combination of alcohol, tainted orange, and recycled airplane oxygen makes for a deadly delicious drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Makes \u003cstrong>one\u003c/strong> generous cocktail suitable for your favorite old fashioned movie star.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 Valencia orange\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup powdered arsenic (organic)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 maraschino or Amarena cherries: 1 for muddling and the other for garnish\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 sugar cubes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>About four dashes of Angostura bitters\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 airline bottles of whiskey\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>A splash of club soda\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Ice\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Thoroughly wash and drip-dry the orange to remove any pesticides. With gloved hands, dump the arsenic powder onto a small plate and roll the citrus around in it until it is fully coated. Let sit for up to three days. When you are ready to make this cocktail, wipe the skin of the orange clean so that no white powder is noticeable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. When you are ready to serve your drink, roll the orange on a generously-fronted German woman until the juice cells of the fruit are sufficiently loosened. Cut a 1/4″ inch slice from the from the orange and then cut that slice in half. Place one half in the bottom of an old fashioned glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Add your 2 sugar cubes, 1 cherry, and 4 dashes of bitters to the glass, then show no mercy as you pummel the ingredients until they are more or less unrecognizable. Remove the orange. It has done it’s work. Or leave it in for extra oomph.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Pour in the splash of club soda and stir until the ingredients are sufficiently mingled. Add ice, then fill the glass to the top with whiskey. Garnish with the second cherry and the other half of orange slice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Serve to any remaining stars of Hollywood’s Golden Age, like Olivia de Havilland or \u003cdel datetime=\"2014-05-02T23:34:53+00:00\">Mickey Rooney\u003c/del>. Or even Eli Wallach. There aren’t many left to choose from.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Repeat every four months until the desired effect has been achieved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* I must apologize to Miss Roberts, who will more than likely never read this post. I have nothing against this actress in the least and, in fact, find her rather likable.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Poison-Crush.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Poison-Crush.jpg\" alt=\"Poison crush. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"400\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-81256\">\u003c/a>It’s true that travel can broaden the mind but, in rare cases, it can also lead to an international celebrity killing spree.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I’d like to take this opportunity to apologize for mine here and now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It started so innocently. I was sixteen years old and on my first trip to Europe. I sat next to an auburn-haired 14 year-old, who did her best to impress me with her general nonchalance regarding celebrity. Her father, it turned out, was a popular Emmy-winning actor on a hit television show. She mentioned that Peter Sellers occasionally slept on the family couch as casually as another 14 year-old girl might mention she occasionally had pudding for breakfast. Knowing she may have seen Inspector Clouseau in his pajamas, I was under the impression that no one famous could cause her to lose her poise and was therefore rightly impressed. I wasn’t much older than she and was already guilty of nearly wetting myself with excitement upon witnessing \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFnqhefkQJw\" target=\"_blank\">Ann Miller\u003c/a> allowing her dog to defecate on my aunt and uncle’s front lawn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But her cool, Hollywood attitude was destroyed on that flight to London. Restless after hours of sitting, my new friend decided to stretch her legs. Her preferred method of calisthenics included climbing up the spiral staircase of our Pan Am jet which led directly to the first class cabin. I admired her nerve but wondered how long it would take for her to be ejected by a rabidly class-conscious flight attendant. She was gone for what seemed like ages, and when she reappeared somewhere over the North Atlantic, stopped half-way down the steps and stared at me. Or quite possibly through me. Flushed and shaking, she returned to her seat next and whispered, “Cary. Grant.” she halted, “is on this plane. Cary Grant is up \u003cem>there\u003c/em>.” I followed her look upward with my own and we stared at the ceiling as one would stare up at heaven, because Paradise to us at that moment was a first class cabin paved not with clouds, but with red carpet, and populated by a single, silver-haired, cleft-chinned angel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We spent the remainder of the flight more or less silent. We were fortunate enough to be near the front of the plane and so were the first from cattle class to disembark. We spotted the object of our adoration and ran up behind him, then slowed to keep ourselves a few respectful paces behind; our heads tilted in awe at the back of his head. We continued to worship him in this manner for a few minutes until he disappeared behind a door. Quite possibly the men’s room. And just like that, the spell was broken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He died four months later. I was saddened by his death but felt no guilt. I was too young to know that I may have been the cause.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On another excursion six years later, I met my brother at Charles de Gaulle airport to fly back home to California. After catching up on our separate adventures, we checked in for our flight home. Doug thought he might try charming the woman behind the counter to see if he could wrangle a ticket upgrade. My French has never been very good, but I somehow understood the most important part of their conversation: “I’d love to help you sir, however our First and Business Classes are full. But I’ll let you in on a little secret… Audrey Hepburn is on your flight today! And so is Julia Roberts!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Telling two gay men that Audrey Hepburn is on their flight might be considered an extreme breach of security today, but everything was much more relaxed in the 1990s. Except for the two of us, thanks to this important piece of information. I’d planned to grab a drink somewhere before boarding, but that was now out of the question. I was intoxicated enough at the thought of sharing the same cabin-filtered air as my favorite film star in the Hollywood firmament. But our excitement turned to extreme anxiety when we saw Miss Hepburn being escorted onto the plane in a wheelchair, much thinner and frail-looking than usual. For the second time in my life, I was rendered silent by a celebrity over the Atlantic Ocean, but this time it wasn’t from excitement, it was from worry. The eleven-hour flight felt like eleven years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Four months later, I learned of her death from cancer. I nearly cancelled my card night with friends, but decided against it, thinking it might help crowd out the sad news from my mind for a few hours, but the evening ended with my feeling worse that I did before. “Did you guys hear Audrey Hepburn died today?” my friend Itay asked without a hint of emotion. But then again, we were playing poker. I shared with the room what I’d seen of her on my flight home from Paris and told them about the coincidence of Cary Grant, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Well clearly you’re to blame for both of their deaths,” he said. His face was obscured behind his cards. “Remind me never to fly with you– you’re like some time-release killer or something.” As the only gay man in the room, I found both his lack of emotion and the general absence of sympathy for either Miss Hepburn or– more importantly– for me around that table deeply upsetting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Why couldn’t it have been Julia Roberts?” I asked to no one and to everyone. I’d wanted to yell it, but held myself back, so the words came out in a sort of dry squeak, which made me sound exceptionally pathetic. After a moment or two of uncomfortable silence, Itay spoke up. “Just keep an eye on the obituaries. Maybe it’ll turn out you killed her, too.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And with that, the poker game continued more or less interrupted, but I left feeling dirty and diseased. I didn’t speak of this coincidence again for a long time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wouldn’t be the last time I’d be called toxic by another human being, but was I really that lethal? How many other lives had I claimed by simply breathing the same recirculated air? I was tired of feeling responsible for the earthly exits of these two people adored by the entire film-going world. For years, every time I entered the cabin of an airplane, I would scan the first class seats for the elderly famous, hoping to warn them to flee while there was still time. I could no longer bear the weight of my guilty burden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So I decided to rid myself of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There had to be another reason for their deaths. But what sort of connection could two extremely famous and beloved actors from Hollywood’s Golden Age possibly have other than myself? After extensive research, I discovered that Hepburn and Grant had, in fact, met before. They made a film together in 1963 entitled \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMkeqjacvAU\" target=\"_blank\">Charade\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I watched the film over and over, searching for clues– anything that might exonerate myself and free me from my own unintentionally-criminal pain. Did they eat both something that might have spoiled on the set during production, which may have ultimately lead to their deaths 23 and 30 years later? No, they did not. Hepburn only eats in front of Walter Matthau– a chicken sandwich as he speaks with his mouth full of liverwurst. A French onion soup is ordered, but pushed away in favor of cigarettes. Endless amounts of what seem to be breath mints are consumed, but only by her. The one time the two stars sit down together for a meal, they do not touch it, but chose to talk in veiled terms about intercourse instead. There was a double ice cream cone Hepburn manages to get a lick or two from, but the rest winds up on Grant’s lapel. I was near the end of my emotional tether, about to give up on my search, when I suddenly hit upon the key to my own innocence: \u003cstrong>An orange.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Orange.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Orange.jpg\" alt=\"Orange with poison. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"500\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-81255\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fruity object of an innocent but sexually suggestive game may very well have been the agent of their slow deaths. I was certain of it. In one particular scene, the Master of Ceremonies at Le Black Sheep Club has patrons line up to pass an orange from one player’s neck to the other’s without the benefit of their hands. All of the actors who came in contact with the offending citrus are now dead: Hepburn. Grant. Ned Glass, the villain to whom Hepburn passes the orange before fleeing was the first to die in 1984. And what of the ample-fronted woman who starts the game? Her career, at the very least, is dead. It became clear to me that someone– most likely a psychotic prop master or vengeance-seeking wardrobe mistress– had poisoned that orange. I briefly wondered what the motive behind this act of horror could have been, but realized that such things are often a waste of time when dealing with the emotionally deranged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/pAcZZtZyfMs'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/pAcZZtZyfMs'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I looked up various slow-acting poisons which might have been used. Hemlock? No evidence of paralysis present in any of the victims. Dimethylmercury? Possible, but difficult do disguise. Tetrodotoxin? Doubtful. Too fast-acting and difficult to come by unless one has ready access to puffer fish. Cyanide? Too much discoloration. Which leaves but one obvious answer: arsenic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It would be a simple matter to coat an orange with arsenic and let it sit until some of the poison absorbs into the skin of the fruit. The prolonged contact with human flesh– endless takes for what looks like a difficult scene to perfect– would be all the murderer needed to get the contamination ball rolling. But how did he or she continue this deadly scheme and keep the victims’ arsenic levels at a steady but still-undetectable level? In two ways, I have decided: 1) by gifting his victims annual holiday citrus baskets and 2) consistently providing oranges for all major airline carriers with clearly marked instructions which read “For Celebrity Cocktails Only.” It was a brilliant plan. And I felt equally brilliant for uncovering it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before I start popping the champagne to celebrate my freedom from a self-inflicted manslaughter rap, I must remind myself that this is only a theory. And one which has not been thoroughly tested at that. All I can really do is wait and see. So I shall wait for Julia Roberts* to get a few more years on her, book the same flight as she, offer her a cocktail with a slice of innocent-looking orange muddled in it, and keep a close eye on the obituaries for the next four months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81254\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Old-Fashioned.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/Old-Fashioned.jpg\" alt=\"Slow-Acting Old Fashioned Cocktail. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81254\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Slow-Acting Old Fashioned Cocktail. Photo: Michael Procopio\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Slow-Acting Old Fashioned Cocktail\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>I have no evidence that Audrey Hepburn and Cary Grant ever shared a round of these beverages together, but I can guarantee that the combination of alcohol, tainted orange, and recycled airplane oxygen makes for a deadly delicious drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Makes \u003cstrong>one\u003c/strong> generous cocktail suitable for your favorite old fashioned movie star.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 Valencia orange\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup powdered arsenic (organic)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 maraschino or Amarena cherries: 1 for muddling and the other for garnish\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 sugar cubes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>About four dashes of Angostura bitters\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 airline bottles of whiskey\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>A splash of club soda\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Ice\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Thoroughly wash and drip-dry the orange to remove any pesticides. With gloved hands, dump the arsenic powder onto a small plate and roll the citrus around in it until it is fully coated. Let sit for up to three days. When you are ready to make this cocktail, wipe the skin of the orange clean so that no white powder is noticeable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. When you are ready to serve your drink, roll the orange on a generously-fronted German woman until the juice cells of the fruit are sufficiently loosened. Cut a 1/4″ inch slice from the from the orange and then cut that slice in half. Place one half in the bottom of an old fashioned glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Add your 2 sugar cubes, 1 cherry, and 4 dashes of bitters to the glass, then show no mercy as you pummel the ingredients until they are more or less unrecognizable. Remove the orange. It has done it’s work. Or leave it in for extra oomph.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Pour in the splash of club soda and stir until the ingredients are sufficiently mingled. Add ice, then fill the glass to the top with whiskey. Garnish with the second cherry and the other half of orange slice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Serve to any remaining stars of Hollywood’s Golden Age, like Olivia de Havilland or \u003cdel datetime=\"2014-05-02T23:34:53+00:00\">Mickey Rooney\u003c/del>. Or even Eli Wallach. There aren’t many left to choose from.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Repeat every four months until the desired effect has been achieved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* I must apologize to Miss Roberts, who will more than likely never read this post. I have nothing against this actress in the least and, in fact, find her rather likable.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81078\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaemain_custom-c459ee4ff91a7c857921b40501528c95938b2b6b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaemain_custom-c459ee4ff91a7c857921b40501528c95938b2b6b.jpg\" alt=\"A sundae with hot fudge, almonds and whipped cream. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\" width=\"1560\" height=\"1009\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81078\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sundae with hot fudge, almonds and whipped cream. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by Laura B. Weiss, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/04/30/308269627/sweet-on-sundaes\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/30/14) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#fudge\">Hot Fudge Sauce Sundaes\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#berry\">Peach Berry Sundaes With Honey\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#split\">Banana Splits\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, the weather is warming up. And that means I'm dreaming about ice cream sundaes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I was researching my book \u003cem>Ice Cream: A Global History\u003c/em>, sundaes were the ice cream treat I was most eager to learn about. For me, there's no more sumptuous dessert than the classic American combo of ice cream, toppings and whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sundaes are just a teensy bit fancy, but not so dressed up that they look out of place on a picnic table or at a barbecue. And sundaes are an easy way to flex your culinary muscle. That's because with these indulgent treats, it's the construction, not the cooking, that counts. And there's no need to fuss in the kitchen. You can prepare your own sauces and ice creams, but store-bought varieties work well, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to mixing and matching ice creams and toppings, the sky's the limit. (For me, the ice cream is an afterthought. Hit me with that topping, and lots of it, please.) Ladle hot fudge over peppermint ice cream. Drizzle honey over coconut sorbet and top it with grilled pineapple. Drop a scoop or two of chocolate ice cream into a bowl, add some brownie pieces, then crown your creation with butterscotch and whipped cream. You can also smother vanilla ice cream in berries and grilled peaches. Or for a simple but very adult dessert, pour a tablespoon of coffee-flavored liqueur over a scoop of chocolate or butter pecan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And don't forget to add some crunch. Sundaes need a bit of texture to counter all that goo and creamy richness. Crumbled cookies, nuts, even granola — anything with a snap to it — will do the trick. Then, there's the whipped cream and garnishes. You could finish your ice cream construction the traditional way with a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=127349094\">maraschino cherry\u003c/a>. But why settle for the obvious when you can choose shaved chocolate, candy bits or crumbled bacon?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whatever ice cream and sauce combinations you elect, start building your sundae with a spoonful of sauce in the bottom of the dish. Then add ice cream, more sauce, and another scoop of ice cream. Douse the whole thing with yet more sauce. With this method, you'll be sure to taste sauce and ice cream in every bite. The exception to this rule is the banana split, in which the ingredients are laid side by side in a nest of banana halves, and the sauce is poured on top of the ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sundaes are not an American invention. The Europeans beat us to it with dishes such as the French coupe. Sundaes as Americans know them \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ice-Cream-Global-History-Reaktion/dp/1861897928\">came into being in the U.S. in the early 1890s\u003c/a>. The question of the exact locale of the sundae's birthplace has sparked fierce, but \u003ca href=\"http://inventors.about.com/od/foodrelatedinventions/a/Sundae.htm\">good-natured, civic rivalries\u003c/a>, with several American towns, including Ithaca, N.Y., Two Rivers, Wis., and Evanston, Ill., claiming to be the sundae's rightful spawning ground.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the day, I don't much care where sundaes originated. I just love them.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"fudge\">\u003c/a>Hot Fudge Sauce Sundaes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>There are lots of recipes for hot fudge. This one is essentially a ganache. It cooks in minutes and boasts a deep, rich chocolate flavor. You can use either semisweet chocolate or a high-quality eating chocolate. I don't add sugar to this fudge sauce because I like the contrast of bittersweet chocolate and sweet ice cream; you can add sugar if you prefer a sweeter topping.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81079\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaefudge-7ad934e3b9a1b8026b60eba71bb0e971605e80e9.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaefudge-7ad934e3b9a1b8026b60eba71bb0e971605e80e9.jpg\" alt=\"Hot Fudge Sauce Sundae. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81079\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hot Fudge Sauce Sundae. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Fudge Sauce\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>12 ounces semisweet chocolate or good-quality 70 percent chocolate bar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups heavy cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>The Sundae\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>For each serving:\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>2 scoops vanilla ice cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon coffee liqueur\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons toasted almonds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Whipped cream\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBreak the chocolate into pieces and set aside. Pour the cream into a saucepan and heat over medium; don't let it boil, or it will curdle. Turn off the heat and add the chocolate. Stir well, adding salt and butter. Return to heat on low and cook for 5 minutes, being careful not to let it boil. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla. Use the topping right away or store it in the refrigerator. To restore it after it's been in the refrigerator, stir the sauce well and reheat in the microwave for 1 minute, or until it softens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the sundaes, place a tablespoon of hot fudge in the bottom of each bowl. Place 1 scoop of vanilla ice cream on top of the fudge. Drizzle more sauce on top of the ice cream. Place a second scoop of ice cream on top. Spoon on additional sauce. Drizzle the coffee liqueur on each sundae, sprinkle with toasted almonds and top with whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"berry\">\u003c/a>Peach Berry Sundaes With Honey\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I make this sumptuous sundae in the summer when stone fruit and berries at their peak ripeness.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81080\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1674px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaefruit_wide-aa6f5bfa9c7d37ea1a7b739bbefba14f7395ccff.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaefruit_wide-aa6f5bfa9c7d37ea1a7b739bbefba14f7395ccff.jpg\" alt=\"Peach Berry Sundaes With Honey. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\" width=\"1674\" height=\"940\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81080\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Peach Berry Sundaes With Honey. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>24 shelled pistachios\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon cinnamon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 ripe peaches cut in half, pitted, peeled and cut into 1-inch slices\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 large fresh strawberries, sliced thinly\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 scoops vanilla ice cream per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup honey per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nToast the pistachios in a dry skillet for 2 minutes, being careful not to burn them. Set them aside. Place the butter, vanilla and cinnamon in a medium-sized sauté pan over medium heat. Sauté the peaches and strawberries for 3 to 4 minutes, until they begin to soften but are still firm. Remove from the pan and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place 3 scoops of vanilla ice cream in each bowl. Spoon honey, then fruit mixture onto the ice cream, and top each sundae with 6 toasted pistachios. Serve immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"split\">\u003c/a>Banana Splits\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I'm not fond of traditional banana splits with their multitude of sauces (traditionally, strawberry, pineapple, chocolate) and ice cream flavors (vanilla, chocolate and strawberry). This recipe is a luxurious, and simpler, version of the old standby. The peanut butter sauce is adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://southernfood.about.com/od/dessertsaucerecipes/r/bln151.htm\">About.com Southern Food\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Peanut Butter Sauce \u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup brown sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup light corn syrup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup smooth peanut butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>The Split\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>For each serving:\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>1 banana split lengthwise\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 scoops chocolate ice cream per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 scoops vanilla ice cream per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Whipped cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 chocolate wafer cookie, crushed into crumbs, per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup toasted peanuts per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPlace the brown sugar, corn syrup, salt and cream in a medium saucepan and mix with a spoon or whisk over medium heat. Bring to a boil and immediately reduce heat to a simmer. Cook 4 to 5 minutes, or until the mixture starts to thicken. (Don't worry if it's still a bit runny. Once you add the peanut butter, the sauce will stiffen up.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove from the heat. Add the peanut butter and mix well with a wooden spoon. Add vanilla and mix. Pour the sauce into a bowl and set aside. If you're not going to use the sauce immediately, refrigerate it. Before serving, heat it in the microwave for 1 minute to soften.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To assemble the banana split, place one banana half on each side of the dish. Place 2 scoops of chocolate ice cream, 2 scoops of vanilla and 2 more scoops of chocolate in a line down the middle of each dish, between the banana slices. Drizzle the ice cream with the peanut butter sauce. Garnish with the whipped cream, cookie pieces and toasted nuts. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laura B. Weiss' work has appeared in \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Saveur\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Travel + Leisure\u003c/em>, and on the Food Network website. She's a contributor to Interior Design's blog and was an editor for the \u003cem>Zagat Long Island Restaurant Guide 2009-2011\u003c/em>. Laura is the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ice-Cream-Global-History-Reaktion/dp/1861897928\">Ice Cream: A Global History\u003c/a>. Follow Laura on Twitter, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Foodandthings\">@foodandthings\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81078\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaemain_custom-c459ee4ff91a7c857921b40501528c95938b2b6b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaemain_custom-c459ee4ff91a7c857921b40501528c95938b2b6b.jpg\" alt=\"A sundae with hot fudge, almonds and whipped cream. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\" width=\"1560\" height=\"1009\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81078\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sundae with hot fudge, almonds and whipped cream. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by Laura B. Weiss, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/04/30/308269627/sweet-on-sundaes\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/30/14) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#fudge\">Hot Fudge Sauce Sundaes\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#berry\">Peach Berry Sundaes With Honey\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#split\">Banana Splits\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, the weather is warming up. And that means I'm dreaming about ice cream sundaes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I was researching my book \u003cem>Ice Cream: A Global History\u003c/em>, sundaes were the ice cream treat I was most eager to learn about. For me, there's no more sumptuous dessert than the classic American combo of ice cream, toppings and whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sundaes are just a teensy bit fancy, but not so dressed up that they look out of place on a picnic table or at a barbecue. And sundaes are an easy way to flex your culinary muscle. That's because with these indulgent treats, it's the construction, not the cooking, that counts. And there's no need to fuss in the kitchen. You can prepare your own sauces and ice creams, but store-bought varieties work well, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to mixing and matching ice creams and toppings, the sky's the limit. (For me, the ice cream is an afterthought. Hit me with that topping, and lots of it, please.) Ladle hot fudge over peppermint ice cream. Drizzle honey over coconut sorbet and top it with grilled pineapple. Drop a scoop or two of chocolate ice cream into a bowl, add some brownie pieces, then crown your creation with butterscotch and whipped cream. You can also smother vanilla ice cream in berries and grilled peaches. Or for a simple but very adult dessert, pour a tablespoon of coffee-flavored liqueur over a scoop of chocolate or butter pecan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And don't forget to add some crunch. Sundaes need a bit of texture to counter all that goo and creamy richness. Crumbled cookies, nuts, even granola — anything with a snap to it — will do the trick. Then, there's the whipped cream and garnishes. You could finish your ice cream construction the traditional way with a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=127349094\">maraschino cherry\u003c/a>. But why settle for the obvious when you can choose shaved chocolate, candy bits or crumbled bacon?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whatever ice cream and sauce combinations you elect, start building your sundae with a spoonful of sauce in the bottom of the dish. Then add ice cream, more sauce, and another scoop of ice cream. Douse the whole thing with yet more sauce. With this method, you'll be sure to taste sauce and ice cream in every bite. The exception to this rule is the banana split, in which the ingredients are laid side by side in a nest of banana halves, and the sauce is poured on top of the ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sundaes are not an American invention. The Europeans beat us to it with dishes such as the French coupe. Sundaes as Americans know them \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ice-Cream-Global-History-Reaktion/dp/1861897928\">came into being in the U.S. in the early 1890s\u003c/a>. The question of the exact locale of the sundae's birthplace has sparked fierce, but \u003ca href=\"http://inventors.about.com/od/foodrelatedinventions/a/Sundae.htm\">good-natured, civic rivalries\u003c/a>, with several American towns, including Ithaca, N.Y., Two Rivers, Wis., and Evanston, Ill., claiming to be the sundae's rightful spawning ground.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the day, I don't much care where sundaes originated. I just love them.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"fudge\">\u003c/a>Hot Fudge Sauce Sundaes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>There are lots of recipes for hot fudge. This one is essentially a ganache. It cooks in minutes and boasts a deep, rich chocolate flavor. You can use either semisweet chocolate or a high-quality eating chocolate. I don't add sugar to this fudge sauce because I like the contrast of bittersweet chocolate and sweet ice cream; you can add sugar if you prefer a sweeter topping.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81079\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaefudge-7ad934e3b9a1b8026b60eba71bb0e971605e80e9.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaefudge-7ad934e3b9a1b8026b60eba71bb0e971605e80e9.jpg\" alt=\"Hot Fudge Sauce Sundae. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81079\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hot Fudge Sauce Sundae. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Fudge Sauce\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>12 ounces semisweet chocolate or good-quality 70 percent chocolate bar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups heavy cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>The Sundae\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>For each serving:\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>2 scoops vanilla ice cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon coffee liqueur\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons toasted almonds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Whipped cream\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBreak the chocolate into pieces and set aside. Pour the cream into a saucepan and heat over medium; don't let it boil, or it will curdle. Turn off the heat and add the chocolate. Stir well, adding salt and butter. Return to heat on low and cook for 5 minutes, being careful not to let it boil. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla. Use the topping right away or store it in the refrigerator. To restore it after it's been in the refrigerator, stir the sauce well and reheat in the microwave for 1 minute, or until it softens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the sundaes, place a tablespoon of hot fudge in the bottom of each bowl. Place 1 scoop of vanilla ice cream on top of the fudge. Drizzle more sauce on top of the ice cream. Place a second scoop of ice cream on top. Spoon on additional sauce. Drizzle the coffee liqueur on each sundae, sprinkle with toasted almonds and top with whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"berry\">\u003c/a>Peach Berry Sundaes With Honey\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I make this sumptuous sundae in the summer when stone fruit and berries at their peak ripeness.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81080\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1674px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaefruit_wide-aa6f5bfa9c7d37ea1a7b739bbefba14f7395ccff.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaefruit_wide-aa6f5bfa9c7d37ea1a7b739bbefba14f7395ccff.jpg\" alt=\"Peach Berry Sundaes With Honey. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\" width=\"1674\" height=\"940\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81080\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Peach Berry Sundaes With Honey. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>24 shelled pistachios\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon cinnamon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 ripe peaches cut in half, pitted, peeled and cut into 1-inch slices\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 large fresh strawberries, sliced thinly\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 scoops vanilla ice cream per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup honey per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nToast the pistachios in a dry skillet for 2 minutes, being careful not to burn them. Set them aside. Place the butter, vanilla and cinnamon in a medium-sized sauté pan over medium heat. Sauté the peaches and strawberries for 3 to 4 minutes, until they begin to soften but are still firm. Remove from the pan and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place 3 scoops of vanilla ice cream in each bowl. Spoon honey, then fruit mixture onto the ice cream, and top each sundae with 6 toasted pistachios. Serve immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"split\">\u003c/a>Banana Splits\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I'm not fond of traditional banana splits with their multitude of sauces (traditionally, strawberry, pineapple, chocolate) and ice cream flavors (vanilla, chocolate and strawberry). This recipe is a luxurious, and simpler, version of the old standby. The peanut butter sauce is adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://southernfood.about.com/od/dessertsaucerecipes/r/bln151.htm\">About.com Southern Food\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Peanut Butter Sauce \u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup brown sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup light corn syrup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup smooth peanut butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>The Split\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>For each serving:\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>1 banana split lengthwise\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 scoops chocolate ice cream per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 scoops vanilla ice cream per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Whipped cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 chocolate wafer cookie, crushed into crumbs, per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup toasted peanuts per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPlace the brown sugar, corn syrup, salt and cream in a medium saucepan and mix with a spoon or whisk over medium heat. Bring to a boil and immediately reduce heat to a simmer. Cook 4 to 5 minutes, or until the mixture starts to thicken. (Don't worry if it's still a bit runny. Once you add the peanut butter, the sauce will stiffen up.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove from the heat. Add the peanut butter and mix well with a wooden spoon. Add vanilla and mix. Pour the sauce into a bowl and set aside. If you're not going to use the sauce immediately, refrigerate it. Before serving, heat it in the microwave for 1 minute to soften.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To assemble the banana split, place one banana half on each side of the dish. Place 2 scoops of chocolate ice cream, 2 scoops of vanilla and 2 more scoops of chocolate in a line down the middle of each dish, between the banana slices. Drizzle the ice cream with the peanut butter sauce. Garnish with the whipped cream, cookie pieces and toasted nuts. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laura B. Weiss' work has appeared in \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Saveur\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Travel + Leisure\u003c/em>, and on the Food Network website. She's a contributor to Interior Design's blog and was an editor for the \u003cem>Zagat Long Island Restaurant Guide 2009-2011\u003c/em>. Laura is the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ice-Cream-Global-History-Reaktion/dp/1861897928\">Ice Cream: A Global History\u003c/a>. Follow Laura on Twitter, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Foodandthings\">@foodandthings\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Patron Saint of TV Dinners",
"title": "The Patron Saint of TV Dinners",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81032\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/TV-Dinner.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/TV-Dinner.jpg\" alt=\"TV Dinner. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81032\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">TV Dinner. Photo: Michael Procopio\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I can’t remember how old I was when I first saw her standing on top of my neighbor’s television set, but I do remember the feeling of not being able to look away. She was tiny– no more than five inches tall– but her presence was large enough to pull my focus away from the action on the screen to her absolute stillness above it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I asked my friend’s mother why there was a little statue of The Virgin Mary on top of their Sylvania, she corrected me in a tone which faintly suggested that her family were better Catholics than mine would ever be. “Oh, Honey, that isn’t the Virgin Mary. That’s \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clare_of_Assisi\">\u003cstrong>St. Clare of Assisi\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>– she’s the patron saint of television.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I approached the plastic idol with what I hoped was a reverential pace to examine her more closely. She held one hand upward in a gesture of blessing and her face looked up to the heavens. Or perhaps she was simply keeping an eye on the antenna which was fastened to the roof directly above. It was impossible to tell. I tried to pick her up, but discovered that she wouldn’t budge from her place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’d heard of people having their eyes glued to their television sets, but never their feet. It was a day of firsts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I came home, I took my usual place at dinner– the seat farthest from my mom. It was the lowest position in the family pecking order, but it also happened to be the only chair at the table which afforded a clear view of the family room and the television in it, which was always miraculously turned on and which I always (just as miraculously) got away with watching. I could now tune out the conversation of my older siblings and tune in to early evening network programming knowing there was a new saint in my life who was watching over me as I ate in silence, just like (as I would learn many years later) the sisters of the Franciscan Order founded by her, The Poor Clares.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I felt doubly protected by Saint Clare on the evenings my working mother was too tired to cook dinner and resorted to the convenience of pre-packaged meals. Eating a Swanson’s TV Dinner by the distant glow of our television set now seemed like a holy act, as I experienced the agony of eating reheated peas and carrots without complaint– a supreme expression of childhood piety– so that I might move on to the ecstasy of dessert which nested between the mashed potato and vegetable compartments of the aluminum serving tray.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But such rapture was never to be found at the end of a tv dinner. The sweet portion of the meal was clearly an afterthought on the part of its creator. Frequently under baked and always flavorless, it was consumed without joy. I suffered from a rare type of frozen dinner amnesia which lead to a near-perpetual state of disappointment in this matter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I never thought to ask her to intercede on my behalf to the Swanson’s Frozen Food Company because I wasn’t certain that was her department, so I would pray to no one in particular that there was ice cream to be had in the freezer instead\u003cstrong>*\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I saved my prayers to St. Clare for the really important stuff, like making sure The Muppet Show would never, ever be cancelled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81031\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1086px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/Roman-Apple-Cake.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/Roman-Apple-Cake.jpg\" alt=\"Roman (Catholic) Apple Cake. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"1086\" height=\"1448\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81031\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roman (Catholic) Apple Cake. Photo: Michael Procopio\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Roman (Catholic) Apple Cake\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>It’s clear to me that St. Clare of Assisi wields a true heavenly power, for there is no other explanation for three seasons of \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SnhgpVb-u5s\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>The Flying Nun\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In life, St. Clare of Assisi was an early follower of St. Francis, also of Assisi. She was a daughter of noble parents who shed her earthy riches to take a vow of extreme poverty, ultimately founding a religious order (The Poor Clares) who still follow her example.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>St. Clare was given the job of watching over the world’s television sets in 1958 by Pope Pius XII, who based his decision on the story that, when Clare was too ill to attend Mass in person, The Holy Spirit projected the proceedings onto her bedroom wall so that she might both see and hear it happen, which gives weight to the idea that flat screen tvs are truly a godsend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for her divine help in creating a decent tv dinner dessert, that remains to be seen. I have what I once thought was a solid childhood memory of one of these “treats” being labeled “Roman apple cake”, but I can find nothing to confirm this as fact. My sister Lori doesn’t remember such a thing, but then again, she doesn’t remember seeing \u003ca href=\"http://foodforthethoughtless.com/2011/07/john-wayne-meatball-recipe/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>John Wayne’s testicles\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> either, so there’s that. It has been a true test of my faith.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that name didn’t appear out of the blue. There is such a dessert, but it is not the one from my memory. The recipe below is simply one I made up. But I’m afraid to take sole credit for its creation because it may very well be the result of St. Clare’s gentle, guiding hand coming to my aid after all these years. God’s helpers move in mysterious ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is a simple dessert, but one which requires a smidgen of straightforward, honest labor, which the Poor Clares tend to look upon favorably. It is not terribly sweet, but the reward of making it with your own hands instead of pulling it out of a cardboard box to thaw may very well bring you an inch or two closer to God.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves: Enough.\u003c/strong> You should thank the Lord you’re getting any dessert at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the batter:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups of all-purpose flour\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup of white sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon of salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 teaspoon of baking powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon of baking soda\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup of milk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup of vegetable oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon of vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 egg\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups of thinly sliced (peeled and cored) apples (2 apples suffice. I use Pink Ladies.)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>For the Frangipane:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>3 ounces of almond paste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tablespoons of butter at room temperature\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 teaspoons of sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoon of flour\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 egg\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>For the Crumble Topping:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 cup all purpose flour\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup white sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup light brown sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup slivered almonds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>8 tablespoons of butter, melted but cooled\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>a heavy pinch of salt\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Make the crumble topping first by combining all of its ingredients together and mixing it with your (clean) hands, because this method is both effective and feels wonderful. Place the topping in the freezer to chill, which facilitates clumping, which is a highly desirable feature in this particular case.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Pre-heat your oven to 350°F. Butter the inside of an 8×8-inch baking dish and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. To make the frangipane, combine all of its ingredients together and mix until they are in complete harmony. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. To make the cake batter, combine all of the dry ingredients together and stir. Then combine the oil, egg, milk, and vanilla extract and beat until unified. Add these wet ingredients gradually to the dry and mix until thoroughly one. \u003cstrong>There should be no apples in the batter at this point. \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Spread about 1/3 of batter into your baking dish to form a solid foundation for the cake. Next, generously dot the surface of this layer with frangipane. You will have plenty of frangipane left over which you may then give to the poor, thus gaining Clare’s good favor and ensuring that your cake will be a success.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Add the sliced apples to the remaining batter, thoroughly coating them. Pour all of it over your frangipane dots and gently smooth out the top to a more-or-less even layer. Place a generous coating of crumble topping where it belongs– on top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Bake on the center rack of your oven for about 1 hour and pray that it rises like a nun’s Holy Bridegroom. Should you find yourself cursed with uncertainty, check it every so often and poke at its center with your finger \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:The_Incredulity_of_Saint_Thomas_by_Caravaggio.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>like a doubting St. Thomas\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> until your faith is restored.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Remove from the oven when the center of the cake springs lightly to the touch and the topping is golden brown. Let both your passions and this dessert cool completely before consuming. In fact, wait even longer, if you can– this cake is better on the second day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve it alone or with lightly sweetened whipped cream. Serve to your loved ones as you watch your favorite (family-friendly) television program. Serve it to the poor. Serve it up to God, if that pleases you. Just please do something with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, as you’re serving it, should any of this cake fall onto your silk tie, your lovely table linen, or your nun’s habit, you can still keep on praying to St. Clare. She just so happens to double as the patron saint of laundry\u003cstrong>**\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>* \u003c/strong>Sadly, there is no patron saint of ice cream. As yet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>**\u003c/strong> This is completely true.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Michael Procopio shares a childhood story of spirituality, TV dinners and dessert disappointment. He makes up for Swanson’s flawed sweets with a recipe for Roman (Catholic) Apple Cake.",
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"description": "Michael Procopio shares a childhood story of spirituality, TV dinners and dessert disappointment. He makes up for Swanson’s flawed sweets with a recipe for Roman (Catholic) Apple Cake.",
"title": "The Patron Saint of TV Dinners | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81032\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/TV-Dinner.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/TV-Dinner.jpg\" alt=\"TV Dinner. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81032\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">TV Dinner. Photo: Michael Procopio\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I can’t remember how old I was when I first saw her standing on top of my neighbor’s television set, but I do remember the feeling of not being able to look away. She was tiny– no more than five inches tall– but her presence was large enough to pull my focus away from the action on the screen to her absolute stillness above it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I asked my friend’s mother why there was a little statue of The Virgin Mary on top of their Sylvania, she corrected me in a tone which faintly suggested that her family were better Catholics than mine would ever be. “Oh, Honey, that isn’t the Virgin Mary. That’s \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clare_of_Assisi\">\u003cstrong>St. Clare of Assisi\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>– she’s the patron saint of television.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I approached the plastic idol with what I hoped was a reverential pace to examine her more closely. She held one hand upward in a gesture of blessing and her face looked up to the heavens. Or perhaps she was simply keeping an eye on the antenna which was fastened to the roof directly above. It was impossible to tell. I tried to pick her up, but discovered that she wouldn’t budge from her place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’d heard of people having their eyes glued to their television sets, but never their feet. It was a day of firsts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I came home, I took my usual place at dinner– the seat farthest from my mom. It was the lowest position in the family pecking order, but it also happened to be the only chair at the table which afforded a clear view of the family room and the television in it, which was always miraculously turned on and which I always (just as miraculously) got away with watching. I could now tune out the conversation of my older siblings and tune in to early evening network programming knowing there was a new saint in my life who was watching over me as I ate in silence, just like (as I would learn many years later) the sisters of the Franciscan Order founded by her, The Poor Clares.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I felt doubly protected by Saint Clare on the evenings my working mother was too tired to cook dinner and resorted to the convenience of pre-packaged meals. Eating a Swanson’s TV Dinner by the distant glow of our television set now seemed like a holy act, as I experienced the agony of eating reheated peas and carrots without complaint– a supreme expression of childhood piety– so that I might move on to the ecstasy of dessert which nested between the mashed potato and vegetable compartments of the aluminum serving tray.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But such rapture was never to be found at the end of a tv dinner. The sweet portion of the meal was clearly an afterthought on the part of its creator. Frequently under baked and always flavorless, it was consumed without joy. I suffered from a rare type of frozen dinner amnesia which lead to a near-perpetual state of disappointment in this matter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I never thought to ask her to intercede on my behalf to the Swanson’s Frozen Food Company because I wasn’t certain that was her department, so I would pray to no one in particular that there was ice cream to be had in the freezer instead\u003cstrong>*\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I saved my prayers to St. Clare for the really important stuff, like making sure The Muppet Show would never, ever be cancelled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81031\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1086px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/Roman-Apple-Cake.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/Roman-Apple-Cake.jpg\" alt=\"Roman (Catholic) Apple Cake. Photo: Michael Procopio\" width=\"1086\" height=\"1448\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81031\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roman (Catholic) Apple Cake. Photo: Michael Procopio\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Roman (Catholic) Apple Cake\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>It’s clear to me that St. Clare of Assisi wields a true heavenly power, for there is no other explanation for three seasons of \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SnhgpVb-u5s\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>The Flying Nun\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In life, St. Clare of Assisi was an early follower of St. Francis, also of Assisi. She was a daughter of noble parents who shed her earthy riches to take a vow of extreme poverty, ultimately founding a religious order (The Poor Clares) who still follow her example.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>St. Clare was given the job of watching over the world’s television sets in 1958 by Pope Pius XII, who based his decision on the story that, when Clare was too ill to attend Mass in person, The Holy Spirit projected the proceedings onto her bedroom wall so that she might both see and hear it happen, which gives weight to the idea that flat screen tvs are truly a godsend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for her divine help in creating a decent tv dinner dessert, that remains to be seen. I have what I once thought was a solid childhood memory of one of these “treats” being labeled “Roman apple cake”, but I can find nothing to confirm this as fact. My sister Lori doesn’t remember such a thing, but then again, she doesn’t remember seeing \u003ca href=\"http://foodforthethoughtless.com/2011/07/john-wayne-meatball-recipe/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>John Wayne’s testicles\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> either, so there’s that. It has been a true test of my faith.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that name didn’t appear out of the blue. There is such a dessert, but it is not the one from my memory. The recipe below is simply one I made up. But I’m afraid to take sole credit for its creation because it may very well be the result of St. Clare’s gentle, guiding hand coming to my aid after all these years. God’s helpers move in mysterious ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is a simple dessert, but one which requires a smidgen of straightforward, honest labor, which the Poor Clares tend to look upon favorably. It is not terribly sweet, but the reward of making it with your own hands instead of pulling it out of a cardboard box to thaw may very well bring you an inch or two closer to God.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves: Enough.\u003c/strong> You should thank the Lord you’re getting any dessert at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the batter:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups of all-purpose flour\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup of white sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon of salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 teaspoon of baking powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon of baking soda\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup of milk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup of vegetable oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon of vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 egg\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups of thinly sliced (peeled and cored) apples (2 apples suffice. I use Pink Ladies.)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>For the Frangipane:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>3 ounces of almond paste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tablespoons of butter at room temperature\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 teaspoons of sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoon of flour\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 egg\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>For the Crumble Topping:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 cup all purpose flour\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup white sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup light brown sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup slivered almonds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>8 tablespoons of butter, melted but cooled\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>a heavy pinch of salt\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Make the crumble topping first by combining all of its ingredients together and mixing it with your (clean) hands, because this method is both effective and feels wonderful. Place the topping in the freezer to chill, which facilitates clumping, which is a highly desirable feature in this particular case.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Pre-heat your oven to 350°F. Butter the inside of an 8×8-inch baking dish and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. To make the frangipane, combine all of its ingredients together and mix until they are in complete harmony. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. To make the cake batter, combine all of the dry ingredients together and stir. Then combine the oil, egg, milk, and vanilla extract and beat until unified. Add these wet ingredients gradually to the dry and mix until thoroughly one. \u003cstrong>There should be no apples in the batter at this point. \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Spread about 1/3 of batter into your baking dish to form a solid foundation for the cake. Next, generously dot the surface of this layer with frangipane. You will have plenty of frangipane left over which you may then give to the poor, thus gaining Clare’s good favor and ensuring that your cake will be a success.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Add the sliced apples to the remaining batter, thoroughly coating them. Pour all of it over your frangipane dots and gently smooth out the top to a more-or-less even layer. Place a generous coating of crumble topping where it belongs– on top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Bake on the center rack of your oven for about 1 hour and pray that it rises like a nun’s Holy Bridegroom. Should you find yourself cursed with uncertainty, check it every so often and poke at its center with your finger \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:The_Incredulity_of_Saint_Thomas_by_Caravaggio.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>like a doubting St. Thomas\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> until your faith is restored.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Remove from the oven when the center of the cake springs lightly to the touch and the topping is golden brown. Let both your passions and this dessert cool completely before consuming. In fact, wait even longer, if you can– this cake is better on the second day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve it alone or with lightly sweetened whipped cream. Serve to your loved ones as you watch your favorite (family-friendly) television program. Serve it to the poor. Serve it up to God, if that pleases you. Just please do something with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, as you’re serving it, should any of this cake fall onto your silk tie, your lovely table linen, or your nun’s habit, you can still keep on praying to St. Clare. She just so happens to double as the patron saint of laundry\u003cstrong>**\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>* \u003c/strong>Sadly, there is no patron saint of ice cream. As yet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Bake Bread Like A Pioneer In Appalachia ... With No Yeast",
"title": "Bake Bread Like A Pioneer In Appalachia ... With No Yeast",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80800\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/salt_rising_bread-b4ee6832788c6c69fffce27d9c01e01d7a90d881.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/salt_rising_bread-b4ee6832788c6c69fffce27d9c01e01d7a90d881.jpg\" alt=\"Salt rising bread is a yeastless Appalachian soul food. Photo: Susan Brown and Jenny Bardwell\" width=\"600\" height=\"449\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80800\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salt rising bread is a yeastless Appalachian soul food. Photo: Susan Brown and Jenny Bardwell\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by Glynis Board, \u003ca href=\"http://wvpublic.org/\">WVPB\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/23/305659383/bake-bread-like-a-pioneer-in-appalachia-with-no-yeast\">The Salt at NPR\u003c/a> (4/23/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up in West Virginia in the 1960s and '70s, Susan Brown would have a slice of salt rising bread, toasted, for Saturday morning breakfast. Her grandmother baked the bread with the mysterious and misleading name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's little or no salt in the recipe. No yeast, either. The bread rises because of bacteria in the potatoes or cornmeal and the flour that goes into the starter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The taste is as distinctive as the recipe. Salt rising bread is dense and white, with a fine crumb and cheese-like flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Indeed it is, when at its best, as if a delicately reared, unsweetened plain cake had had an affair with a Pont l'Eveque cheese,\" wrote J.C. Furnas in \u003cem>The Americans: A Social History of the US, 1587-1914\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Brown herself bakes the bread. So does her friend, Jenny Bardwell, who owns \u003ca href=\"http://risingcreekbakery.com/\">Rising Creek Bakery\u003c/a> in Mt. Morris, Pa. And the two have become experts on this unusual loaf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/09/198425906/how-the-diy-butter-trend-got-churning\">neo-butter churners\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/02/13/146821976/diy-willy-wonka-turns-home-into-chocolate-factory\">cacao bean grinders\u003c/a>, Bardwell and Brown are keeping a labor-intensive culinary tradition alive. And they're giving some members of their community who grew up on the bread a nostalgic taste of childhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their research hasn't yielded the definitive origin story. The best guess is that salt rising bread dates to the isolated Appalachian region in the late 1700s, where enterprising women who did not have access to yeast figured out a way to make a yeast-free bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The origins of the name are also unclear. One explanation is that pioneer women who crossed the country kept their starter dough warm in the salt barrel, kept atop the wagon wheel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By day the sun would warm the salt, which would warm the starter. The bread could be made in the evening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another possibility: The starter was placed on a bed of rock salt in a box by the hearth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Either way, the starter takes a long time to ferment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Sometimes it's 9 hours, sometimes it's 11 hours,\" says Bardwell. \"You have to be really tuned into this bread. You have to kind of know how to recognize it when it's ready. Not an hour before, not an hour later.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat is critical. \"Salt rising Bread is primarily wild bacteria you're culturing with heat, about 105 to 115 degrees Fahrenheit,\" explains Bardwell. She believes the different bacteria interact when heated, raising the bread and giving it flavor and texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To find out more about the process, Brown and Bardwell headed to a lab at the University of Pittsburgh to visit pathologist Bruce McClane, who studies \u003cem>Clostridium perfringens\u003c/em> — one of the microbes that makes the bread rise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We walk in and [the lab] smelled just like salt rising bread!\" Bardwell says, referring to the strong smell of the starter, which some people liken to rotten cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The microbe is ubiquitous, they learned — and McClane told them it can be responsible for medical conditions such as gangrene and diarrhea. But the strains in the bread do not usually cause food poisoning, he says. And baking the microbes \"significantly\" reduces their number, \"to the point where they should not be a threat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The two bakers collaborated with McClane and family medicine professor Greg Juckett on an \u003ca href=\"http://mediad.publicbroadcasting.net/p/wvpn/files/201404/microbiologySRB.pdf\">article\u003c/a> for the \u003cem>West Virginia Medical Journal\u003c/em> to highlight how SRB has no history of causing any problems.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the small bakery on the bank of Dunkard Creek is one of the only places in the country that produces the bread, selling it in the shop and shipping out hundreds of loaves each week. Customers surveys reveal that they like to toast the bread and eat it with butter, or drizzle milk and brown sugar on top, or dip it in sweet coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And for many who grew up with salt rising bread, the bakery offers a welcome taste of the past without having to prepare the time-consuming loaf.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Salt Rising Bread\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>There are a half-dozen or so recipes for the pioneer bread on the Internet. This one is featured on Susan Brown's \u003ca href=\"http://home.comcast.net/~petsonk/\">website\u003c/a> and comes from Pearl Haines, a Pennsylvania woman who started making the bread when she was about five years old and baked it for nearly 90 years. (Haines passed away this year.) Her starter, or \"raisin,\" as she called it, uses fewer ingredients than most recipes and has no sugar or salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 teaspoons cornmeal\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup scalded milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour milk onto dry ingredients in an ungreased quart glass jar or metal, glass, or pottery bowl that holds about four cups. Stir. Cover with saran wrap — and punch a hole in the wrap to keep it from sinking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keep starter warm, at 105-115 Fahrenheit, overnight until foamy. Three suggestions: 1) Wrap the bowl in a heating pad at the lowest setting, then wrap a towel around it. 2) Set the bowl in an electric skillet with about half an inch of water, set at the lowest temperature. 3) Put it in an oven if there's a light bulb inside that's about 60 watts and you can keep the bulb turned on, or if the oven has a \"proof\" setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brown suggests having a thermometer on hand to check the starter's temperature several times during the rise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After \"raisin\" has foamed and has a \"cheesy\" smell, put it in a medium-size bowl. Add 2 cups of warm water, then enough flour (about 1 1/2 cups) to make a thin pancake-like batter. Stir and let rise again until foamy. This usually takes about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Monitor the temperature during this stage as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next, for each loaf you want to make, add one cup of warm water and 2 to 3 cups of flour (enough to be able to form the dough into a ball). Shape the dough into a loaf and place in a small loaf pan (about 8 1/2 inches by 4 1/2 by 2 1/2) greased with butter, Crisco, Pam or oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let rise 2 to 3 hours. (If it doesn't rise at that point, you'll likely have to start over, Brown says.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the loaf is a light golden color and sounds hollow when tapped.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bread has a long shelf life. \"It can keep on your counter for a good week or ten days without going bad,\" says Brown, \"and if you put it in your refrigerator it'll keep for another couple of weeks.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you encounter any problems, Brown invites you to email her at srbwva@gmail.com. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.wvpublic.org\">West Virginia Public Broadcasting\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Bacteria can make a bread rise and give it a cheesy flavor. That's the secret ingredient in salt rising bread, which dates to the late 1700s in Appalachia, when bakers didn't have yeast on hand.",
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"description": "Bacteria can make a bread rise and give it a cheesy flavor. That's the secret ingredient in salt rising bread, which dates to the late 1700s in Appalachia, when bakers didn't have yeast on hand.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80800\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/salt_rising_bread-b4ee6832788c6c69fffce27d9c01e01d7a90d881.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/salt_rising_bread-b4ee6832788c6c69fffce27d9c01e01d7a90d881.jpg\" alt=\"Salt rising bread is a yeastless Appalachian soul food. Photo: Susan Brown and Jenny Bardwell\" width=\"600\" height=\"449\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80800\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salt rising bread is a yeastless Appalachian soul food. Photo: Susan Brown and Jenny Bardwell\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by Glynis Board, \u003ca href=\"http://wvpublic.org/\">WVPB\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/23/305659383/bake-bread-like-a-pioneer-in-appalachia-with-no-yeast\">The Salt at NPR\u003c/a> (4/23/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up in West Virginia in the 1960s and '70s, Susan Brown would have a slice of salt rising bread, toasted, for Saturday morning breakfast. Her grandmother baked the bread with the mysterious and misleading name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's little or no salt in the recipe. No yeast, either. The bread rises because of bacteria in the potatoes or cornmeal and the flour that goes into the starter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The taste is as distinctive as the recipe. Salt rising bread is dense and white, with a fine crumb and cheese-like flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Indeed it is, when at its best, as if a delicately reared, unsweetened plain cake had had an affair with a Pont l'Eveque cheese,\" wrote J.C. Furnas in \u003cem>The Americans: A Social History of the US, 1587-1914\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Brown herself bakes the bread. So does her friend, Jenny Bardwell, who owns \u003ca href=\"http://risingcreekbakery.com/\">Rising Creek Bakery\u003c/a> in Mt. Morris, Pa. And the two have become experts on this unusual loaf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/09/198425906/how-the-diy-butter-trend-got-churning\">neo-butter churners\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/02/13/146821976/diy-willy-wonka-turns-home-into-chocolate-factory\">cacao bean grinders\u003c/a>, Bardwell and Brown are keeping a labor-intensive culinary tradition alive. And they're giving some members of their community who grew up on the bread a nostalgic taste of childhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their research hasn't yielded the definitive origin story. The best guess is that salt rising bread dates to the isolated Appalachian region in the late 1700s, where enterprising women who did not have access to yeast figured out a way to make a yeast-free bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The origins of the name are also unclear. One explanation is that pioneer women who crossed the country kept their starter dough warm in the salt barrel, kept atop the wagon wheel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By day the sun would warm the salt, which would warm the starter. The bread could be made in the evening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another possibility: The starter was placed on a bed of rock salt in a box by the hearth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Either way, the starter takes a long time to ferment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Sometimes it's 9 hours, sometimes it's 11 hours,\" says Bardwell. \"You have to be really tuned into this bread. You have to kind of know how to recognize it when it's ready. Not an hour before, not an hour later.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat is critical. \"Salt rising Bread is primarily wild bacteria you're culturing with heat, about 105 to 115 degrees Fahrenheit,\" explains Bardwell. She believes the different bacteria interact when heated, raising the bread and giving it flavor and texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To find out more about the process, Brown and Bardwell headed to a lab at the University of Pittsburgh to visit pathologist Bruce McClane, who studies \u003cem>Clostridium perfringens\u003c/em> — one of the microbes that makes the bread rise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We walk in and [the lab] smelled just like salt rising bread!\" Bardwell says, referring to the strong smell of the starter, which some people liken to rotten cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The microbe is ubiquitous, they learned — and McClane told them it can be responsible for medical conditions such as gangrene and diarrhea. But the strains in the bread do not usually cause food poisoning, he says. And baking the microbes \"significantly\" reduces their number, \"to the point where they should not be a threat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The two bakers collaborated with McClane and family medicine professor Greg Juckett on an \u003ca href=\"http://mediad.publicbroadcasting.net/p/wvpn/files/201404/microbiologySRB.pdf\">article\u003c/a> for the \u003cem>West Virginia Medical Journal\u003c/em> to highlight how SRB has no history of causing any problems.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the small bakery on the bank of Dunkard Creek is one of the only places in the country that produces the bread, selling it in the shop and shipping out hundreds of loaves each week. Customers surveys reveal that they like to toast the bread and eat it with butter, or drizzle milk and brown sugar on top, or dip it in sweet coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And for many who grew up with salt rising bread, the bakery offers a welcome taste of the past without having to prepare the time-consuming loaf.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Salt Rising Bread\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>There are a half-dozen or so recipes for the pioneer bread on the Internet. This one is featured on Susan Brown's \u003ca href=\"http://home.comcast.net/~petsonk/\">website\u003c/a> and comes from Pearl Haines, a Pennsylvania woman who started making the bread when she was about five years old and baked it for nearly 90 years. (Haines passed away this year.) Her starter, or \"raisin,\" as she called it, uses fewer ingredients than most recipes and has no sugar or salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 teaspoons cornmeal\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup scalded milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour milk onto dry ingredients in an ungreased quart glass jar or metal, glass, or pottery bowl that holds about four cups. Stir. Cover with saran wrap — and punch a hole in the wrap to keep it from sinking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keep starter warm, at 105-115 Fahrenheit, overnight until foamy. Three suggestions: 1) Wrap the bowl in a heating pad at the lowest setting, then wrap a towel around it. 2) Set the bowl in an electric skillet with about half an inch of water, set at the lowest temperature. 3) Put it in an oven if there's a light bulb inside that's about 60 watts and you can keep the bulb turned on, or if the oven has a \"proof\" setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brown suggests having a thermometer on hand to check the starter's temperature several times during the rise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After \"raisin\" has foamed and has a \"cheesy\" smell, put it in a medium-size bowl. Add 2 cups of warm water, then enough flour (about 1 1/2 cups) to make a thin pancake-like batter. Stir and let rise again until foamy. This usually takes about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Monitor the temperature during this stage as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next, for each loaf you want to make, add one cup of warm water and 2 to 3 cups of flour (enough to be able to form the dough into a ball). Shape the dough into a loaf and place in a small loaf pan (about 8 1/2 inches by 4 1/2 by 2 1/2) greased with butter, Crisco, Pam or oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let rise 2 to 3 hours. (If it doesn't rise at that point, you'll likely have to start over, Brown says.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the loaf is a light golden color and sounds hollow when tapped.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bread has a long shelf life. \"It can keep on your counter for a good week or ten days without going bad,\" says Brown, \"and if you put it in your refrigerator it'll keep for another couple of weeks.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you encounter any problems, Brown invites you to email her at srbwva@gmail.com. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "DIY Peeps: Embrace The Simple Sugary Pleasure of Homemade Marshmallow Peeps this Easter",
"title": "DIY Peeps: Embrace The Simple Sugary Pleasure of Homemade Marshmallow Peeps this Easter",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80511\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 955px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/finished-peeps-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/finished-peeps-1.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade marshmallow Peeps are a fun treat for Easter. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"955\" height=\"605\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80511\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade marshmallow Peeps are a fun treat for Easter. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I have eaten at least one marshmallow Peep every Easter Sunday as far back as I can remember. I can’t confirm the presence of Peeps in my house back in my toddler years, but I’m willing to guess that they made an appearance.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID=\"bayareabites_93590,bayareabites_104647\" label=\"Try More DIY\"]\u003cbr>\nMy mom, you see, has a fondness for the cottony, sugar-coated candies, and she still mails them to me from across the country every spring. (Never mind the fact that Peeps line the shelves of every supermarket and drugstore coast-to-coast come springtime.) As a kid, I relished this unabashed freedom to ruin dinner with an ungodly amount of sugar; I viewed the Peeps-bonanza a fair bribe for my cooperation during church. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, I’ll make my way through a single Peep, my reasoning powered more by nostalgia than desire. Store-bought Peeps are, after all, a sorry version of a marshmallow—a mere vehicle for a soda’s worth of sugar. But now that I’ve learned to make Peeps from scratch, I will likely up my intake. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80513\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/ingredients.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/ingredients.jpg\" alt=\"You’ll need lots of sugar, plus gelatin, food coloring, cocoa, and vanilla to make homemade Peeps. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"759\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80513\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">You’ll need lots of sugar, plus gelatin, food coloring, cocoa, and vanilla to make homemade Peeps. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, let’s get this straight: homemade Peeps are far from wholesome. Indeed, for the best results, granulated sugar and corn syrup are necessities. However, the flavor and texture of the DIY candies are exponentially better than the shrink-wrapped variety. I like to use organic cane sugar for its slightly more complex flavor, but traditional granulated sugar will work just fine. I use food coloring to dye the sugar for coating the Peeps, vanilla to flavor the marshmallow, and cocoa to form the eyes. You will also need a piping bag (use a disposable one for easy clean-up), a large (1/2-inch wide) piping tip, a stand mixer with a whisk attachment, and candy thermometer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80508\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/coloring-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/coloring-2.jpg\" alt=\"Use food coloring to dye sugar for coating the peeps. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"690\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80508\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Use food coloring to dye sugar for coating the peeps. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, dye your sugar. I like to make classic yellow Peeps, but feel free to use any color you’d like. You could even go au natural. Measure out 2 cups of sugar into a large bowl and add 5 or 6 drops of food coloring. Use a spoon (or your hands if you don’t mind the mess) to rub the food coloring into the sand. Once the color is evenly distributed, you can choose to add more coloring if you want a more vibrant color. For this batch, I used 10 drops of yellow food coloring. Spread about half of the dyed sugar across a parchment paper-lined rimmed baking sheet. Save the rest in the bowl for later. Now is also a good time to fit the piping tip into the piping bag. Snip off the bottom of the piping bag and push the tip into the bottom. Continue to trim the bag until the piping tip fits perfectly in the hole in the bottom of the bag. Fold over the top 4 inches of the bag.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80512\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/gelatin-bloomed.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/gelatin-bloomed.jpg\" alt=\"Once the gelatin is properly hydrated (or bloomed) it will form a clear, springy gel in the bottom of the mixing bowl. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"706\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80512\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Once the gelatin is properly hydrated (or bloomed) it will form a clear, springy gel in the bottom of the mixing bowl. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next, bloom the gelatin in 1/3 cup of water. Gelatin is what provides the marshmallow mixture with structure. Almost all commercial marshmallows rely on gelatin, and it is the easiest to use at home. If you are vegan, there are resources online for learning to substitute other stabilizers, like agar, for the gelatin. Powdered gelatin must be hydrated (or bloomed) before use. To save bowls, I do this step in the bowl of my stand mixer. Stir the gelatin into the water until there are no longer any large clumps. The gelatin then needs to sit for around 10-15 minutes to soften. While the gelatin softens, make the sugar syrup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This sugar syrup is made from a mixture of water, sugar, and corn syrup. The corn syrup helps prevent the sugar from crystallizing and it also gives the Peeps the ideal chewy texture. That said, I have seen recipes for homemade Peeps that forgo corn syrup altogether. If you’re weary of corn syrup, you can try substituting it for an equal amount of granulated sugar. (But really, if you don’t want to eat a little corn syrup, you probably don’t want to eat Peeps either.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80516\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sugar-in-pot.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sugar-in-pot.jpg\" alt=\"Pour the sugar into the center of the saucepan to avoid hitting the sides. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"676\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80516\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pour the sugar into the center of the saucepan to avoid hitting the sides. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Boiling sugar syrup isn’t difficult, but there are a few tricks to making it foolproof. First, combine the corn syrup and water in a large saucepan. Then pour the sugar carefully into the center of the pot, making a mound that doesn’t touch the sides of the pot. Crystallization can happen when melted sugar gets stuck to the sides of the pot, so it’s best to avoid that problem from the get-go. Now bring the water up to a rolling boil over medium heat. While the mixture is heating, gently swirl the pot to slowly dissolve the sugar into the water. This will get easier as the sugar melts. Once the mound of sugar is gone, you can stop swirling the pan. Don’t stir it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80506\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/at-temp.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/at-temp.jpg\" alt=\"The sugar syrup for Peeps needs to be cooked to 245 degrees, or the firm-ball stage to ensure that the marshmallow mixture will set properly when it is piped. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"697\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80506\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The sugar syrup for Peeps needs to be cooked to 245 degrees, or the firm-ball stage to ensure that the marshmallow mixture will set properly when it is piped. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Monitor the temperature of the sugar syrup as it boils; you’re looking for 245 degrees, or the firm-ball stage. Try to take the temperature of the syrup in 3 or 4 places as it is heating. Sugar tends to form heat pockets, and you’ll want to confirm that the entire mixture has reached 245 before moving on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the syrup is cooked, remove the pot from the heat. Now turn the stand mixer to low. Carefully pour the sugar syrup into the gelatin while trying to avoid both the sides of the bowl and the whisk. If you hit the side, some of the sugar will likely harden on the bowl and not get mixed in. This problem is smaller than the splattering that could occur should you hit the whisk. In other words, you definitely want to stay away from the whisk. Once all of the sugar syrup has been mixed in, slowly raise the speed of the mixer to high. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80517\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/whipping-marshmallow.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/whipping-marshmallow.jpg\" alt=\"The marshmallow mixture must be whipped for a long time to add volume while it cools. You’ll know it is ready when the mixture loses its gloss and holds tightly to the whisk. The marshmallow mixture on the left is glossy and trails off of the beater; it is not quite finished. The marshmallow mixture on the right is matte and forms a stiff mound on the whisk; it is ready to go. Photos: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"625\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80517\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The marshmallow mixture must be whipped for a long time to add volume while it cools. You’ll know it is ready when the mixture loses its gloss and holds tightly to the whisk. The marshmallow mixture on the left is glossy and trails off of the beater; it is not quite finished. The marshmallow mixture on the right is matte and forms a stiff mound on the whisk; it is ready to go. Photos: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the marshmallow mixes, it will cool and increase in volume rapidly. You will notice the color change to white and the mixture will slowly lose its gloss. Once the mixture is thick, add 1 teaspoon of vanilla. Continue to beat until the marshmallow is very thick and does not stream down off of the whisk when pulled out of the bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80510\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/filling-piping-bag.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/filling-piping-bag.jpg\" alt=\"Be sure to twist and pinch the bottom of the piping bag to prevent the marshmallow mixture from leaking out while it is being added to the piping bag. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"700\" height=\"876\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80510\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Be sure to twist and pinch the bottom of the piping bag to prevent the marshmallow mixture from leaking out while it is being added to the piping bag. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now transfer the marshmallow mixture to the piping bag. To keep the marshmallow from falling out of the tip, make sure the bag is twisted right above the tip. Do your best to transfer all of the marshmallow mixture to the bag. Unfold the top of the bag and compress the marshmallow towards the tip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80514\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/piping-body.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/piping-body.jpg\" alt=\"Start by piping the body of the Peep on to the sugar-lined baking sheet. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"607\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80514\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Start by piping the body of the Peep on to the sugar-lined baking sheet. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Here comes the tricky part: piping. I must admit that I never really got the hang of making perfect Peeps, so don’t sweat it if your Peeps look more like sea lions than baby chicks. They’ll still taste good. To shape the Peeps, start by forming the body: Hold the bag about 1 inch above the sugar-lined baking sheet at a 90-degree angle. Squeeze the marshmallow mixture out of the bag, allowing it to form a 1-inch round before beginning to taper. You should try to form a body in the shape of a fat tadpole. Release the pressure on the bag and pull the bag upwards to form the tail. You may need to wiggle the bag a little to get the marshmallow to separate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80515\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/piping-head.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/piping-head.jpg\" alt=\"Pipe a smaller mound of marshmallow mixture on top of the body to form the head, snaking the direction of the marshmallow to form a beak. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"628\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80515\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pipe a smaller mound of marshmallow mixture on top of the body to form the head, snaking the direction of the marshmallow to form a beak. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Form the head by placing the bag at a 90-degree angle above the widest part of the body. Slow pipe more marshmallow mixture onto the body, moving the bag back towards the tail. Once you reach the middle of the body, reverse directions and move the bag back towards the front. At the same time, release pressure on the bag so that the marshmallow stops flowing and forms something of a beak shape. Again, you will likely need to wiggle the bag a little to separate the Peep from the tip. Continue piping Peeps until you run out of marshmallow. If you need to do any touch ups or move the Peeps around on the tray, use slightly damp fingers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80507\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/coating-in-sugar.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/coating-in-sugar.jpg\" alt=\"Coat the piped Peeps with the remaining dyed sugar. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"684\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80507\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Coat the piped Peeps with the remaining dyed sugar. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once you’ve piped all of the Peeps, sprinkle them with the remaining dyed sugar. I found that it was easiest to coat the tops and broad sides of the Peeps first, and then turning them to coat until the head, neck, and tail. Once they’ve got a layer of sugar, you should be able to handle them without sticking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, make the eyes. Some recipes called for making icing to paint onto the Peeps, but that additional process seemed unnecessary. All you really need is a little cocoa powder and water. I found that a 2:1 ratio of cocoa to water makes a good chocolate paint. Mix the cocoa and water together well to get out any errant clumps. Then use a toothpick to dot eyes and any other decorations you’d like to add to the Peeps. If you’re making Peeps with kids, you may want to let them take some creative license and transform the Peeps into marshmallow dinosaurs. (It wouldn’t be a stretch.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80509\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/eyes-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/eyes-2.jpg\" alt=\"Use a mixture of cocoa powder and water to form the eyes. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"656\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80509\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Use a mixture of cocoa powder and water to form the eyes. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Let the decorated Peeps sit out at room temperature for 4 to 6 hours to let the marshmallow dry and set. You can eat them right away, but they will be extremely soft and messy. The Peeps will maintain their texture for 2 to 3 days, covered in an airtight container. If you like stale Peeps (I do), you can store them for much longer.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: DIY Marshmallow Peeps\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 18 candies\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> Large piping tips are often sold in sets of 10-15 tips. If you only want to buy the single tip used in this recipe, you will likely need to order it online or visit a specialty pastry store, like Spun Sugar in Berkeley. Disposable plastic piping bags are widely available online and at stores like Sur la Table. You will need a stand mixer for this recipe; it cannot be hand-whipped. The recipe can be easily doubled if necessary. You will not need to double the colored sugar mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>3 cups granulated sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Food coloring\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 1/2 teaspoons (1 packet) unflavored gelatin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Water, at room temperature\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon corn syrup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon cocoa powder\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Equipment:\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>Baking sheet\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Parchment or wax paper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Disposable plastic piping bag\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2-inch wide piping tip\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Stand mixer with whisk attachment\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Large saucepan\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Instant-read or candy thermometer\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Toothpick\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Place 2 cups of the granulated sugar in a large bowl. Add 5 to 10 drops of food coloring (in the color of your choice) to the sugar. Using a spoon or your fingers, mix the coloring evenly into the sugar. Add more color if necessary. Transfer half of the sugar onto a parchment- or wax paper-lined baking sheet, leaving the remaining sugar in the bowl. Set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fit a piping bag with a 1/2-inch wide round tip. Set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, combine the gelatin with 1/3 cup water. Let gelatin sit while preparing the sugar syrup to let the gelatin soften.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a large saucepan, combine the corn syrup with 1/4 cup water. Pour the remaining 1 cup sugar in the center of the pot so that it doesn’t touch the sides of the pan. Bring mixture to a boil over medium heat without stirring. Continue to cook without stirring until the mixture registers 245 degrees, gently swirling the pan to dissolve the sugar.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Turn mixer on to low speed and carefully pour the hot sugar syrup into the bowl with the gelatin. Gradually increase the mixer speed to high, and continue to mix until the mixture lightens in color, about 6 minutes. Beat in the vanilla. Continue to beat the mixer until the marshmallow has lost its gloss and is very thick, 1 to 3 more minutes. Using a spatula, transfer the marshmallow mixture to the piping bag.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Starting with the body, begin piping the Peeps onto the sugar-lined baking sheet: Hold the bag about 1 inch above the sugar at a 90-degree angle. Squeeze the marshmallow out of the bag, allowing it to form a 1-inch round before pulling it back towards you. Taper the marshmallow as you go, forming a body. Release the pressure on the bag and pull the bag upwards to form the tail. Form the head by placing the bag at a 90-degree angle above the widest part of the body. Pipe onto the body, moving the bag back towards the tail. Once reaching the middle of the body, reverse directions and move the bag back towards the front. At the same time, release pressure on the bag so that the marshmallow stops flowing and forms a beak shape. Repeat with the remaining marshmallow mixture.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Using a spoon, sprinkle the Peeps to coat with the remaining 1 cup colored sugar.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix the cocoa powder with 1 1/2 teaspoons water until it forms a thick paste. Use a toothpick or thin brush to dab the chocolate mixture onto the Peeps to form eyes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Let the Peeps sit out uncovered at room temperature for 4-6 hours to set the marshmallow before serving. Transfer to an airtight container for storage. The Peeps will keep for at least 2 to 3 days at room temperature.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Think you've outgrown marshmallow Peeps? Think again. The homemade version offers just as much fun and far more flavor than the original. Kate Williams will show you how to make them for Easter.",
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"description": "Think you've outgrown marshmallow Peeps? Think again. The homemade version offers just as much fun and far more flavor than the original. Kate Williams will show you how to make them for Easter.",
"title": "DIY Peeps: Embrace The Simple Sugary Pleasure of Homemade Marshmallow Peeps this Easter | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80511\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 955px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/finished-peeps-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/finished-peeps-1.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade marshmallow Peeps are a fun treat for Easter. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"955\" height=\"605\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80511\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade marshmallow Peeps are a fun treat for Easter. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I have eaten at least one marshmallow Peep every Easter Sunday as far back as I can remember. I can’t confirm the presence of Peeps in my house back in my toddler years, but I’m willing to guess that they made an appearance.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nMy mom, you see, has a fondness for the cottony, sugar-coated candies, and she still mails them to me from across the country every spring. (Never mind the fact that Peeps line the shelves of every supermarket and drugstore coast-to-coast come springtime.) As a kid, I relished this unabashed freedom to ruin dinner with an ungodly amount of sugar; I viewed the Peeps-bonanza a fair bribe for my cooperation during church. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, I’ll make my way through a single Peep, my reasoning powered more by nostalgia than desire. Store-bought Peeps are, after all, a sorry version of a marshmallow—a mere vehicle for a soda’s worth of sugar. But now that I’ve learned to make Peeps from scratch, I will likely up my intake. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80513\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/ingredients.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/ingredients.jpg\" alt=\"You’ll need lots of sugar, plus gelatin, food coloring, cocoa, and vanilla to make homemade Peeps. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"759\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80513\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">You’ll need lots of sugar, plus gelatin, food coloring, cocoa, and vanilla to make homemade Peeps. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, let’s get this straight: homemade Peeps are far from wholesome. Indeed, for the best results, granulated sugar and corn syrup are necessities. However, the flavor and texture of the DIY candies are exponentially better than the shrink-wrapped variety. I like to use organic cane sugar for its slightly more complex flavor, but traditional granulated sugar will work just fine. I use food coloring to dye the sugar for coating the Peeps, vanilla to flavor the marshmallow, and cocoa to form the eyes. You will also need a piping bag (use a disposable one for easy clean-up), a large (1/2-inch wide) piping tip, a stand mixer with a whisk attachment, and candy thermometer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80508\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/coloring-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/coloring-2.jpg\" alt=\"Use food coloring to dye sugar for coating the peeps. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"690\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80508\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Use food coloring to dye sugar for coating the peeps. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, dye your sugar. I like to make classic yellow Peeps, but feel free to use any color you’d like. You could even go au natural. Measure out 2 cups of sugar into a large bowl and add 5 or 6 drops of food coloring. Use a spoon (or your hands if you don’t mind the mess) to rub the food coloring into the sand. Once the color is evenly distributed, you can choose to add more coloring if you want a more vibrant color. For this batch, I used 10 drops of yellow food coloring. Spread about half of the dyed sugar across a parchment paper-lined rimmed baking sheet. Save the rest in the bowl for later. Now is also a good time to fit the piping tip into the piping bag. Snip off the bottom of the piping bag and push the tip into the bottom. Continue to trim the bag until the piping tip fits perfectly in the hole in the bottom of the bag. Fold over the top 4 inches of the bag.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80512\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/gelatin-bloomed.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/gelatin-bloomed.jpg\" alt=\"Once the gelatin is properly hydrated (or bloomed) it will form a clear, springy gel in the bottom of the mixing bowl. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"706\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80512\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Once the gelatin is properly hydrated (or bloomed) it will form a clear, springy gel in the bottom of the mixing bowl. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next, bloom the gelatin in 1/3 cup of water. Gelatin is what provides the marshmallow mixture with structure. Almost all commercial marshmallows rely on gelatin, and it is the easiest to use at home. If you are vegan, there are resources online for learning to substitute other stabilizers, like agar, for the gelatin. Powdered gelatin must be hydrated (or bloomed) before use. To save bowls, I do this step in the bowl of my stand mixer. Stir the gelatin into the water until there are no longer any large clumps. The gelatin then needs to sit for around 10-15 minutes to soften. While the gelatin softens, make the sugar syrup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This sugar syrup is made from a mixture of water, sugar, and corn syrup. The corn syrup helps prevent the sugar from crystallizing and it also gives the Peeps the ideal chewy texture. That said, I have seen recipes for homemade Peeps that forgo corn syrup altogether. If you’re weary of corn syrup, you can try substituting it for an equal amount of granulated sugar. (But really, if you don’t want to eat a little corn syrup, you probably don’t want to eat Peeps either.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80516\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sugar-in-pot.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sugar-in-pot.jpg\" alt=\"Pour the sugar into the center of the saucepan to avoid hitting the sides. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"676\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80516\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pour the sugar into the center of the saucepan to avoid hitting the sides. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Boiling sugar syrup isn’t difficult, but there are a few tricks to making it foolproof. First, combine the corn syrup and water in a large saucepan. Then pour the sugar carefully into the center of the pot, making a mound that doesn’t touch the sides of the pot. Crystallization can happen when melted sugar gets stuck to the sides of the pot, so it’s best to avoid that problem from the get-go. Now bring the water up to a rolling boil over medium heat. While the mixture is heating, gently swirl the pot to slowly dissolve the sugar into the water. This will get easier as the sugar melts. Once the mound of sugar is gone, you can stop swirling the pan. Don’t stir it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80506\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/at-temp.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/at-temp.jpg\" alt=\"The sugar syrup for Peeps needs to be cooked to 245 degrees, or the firm-ball stage to ensure that the marshmallow mixture will set properly when it is piped. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"697\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80506\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The sugar syrup for Peeps needs to be cooked to 245 degrees, or the firm-ball stage to ensure that the marshmallow mixture will set properly when it is piped. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Monitor the temperature of the sugar syrup as it boils; you’re looking for 245 degrees, or the firm-ball stage. Try to take the temperature of the syrup in 3 or 4 places as it is heating. Sugar tends to form heat pockets, and you’ll want to confirm that the entire mixture has reached 245 before moving on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the syrup is cooked, remove the pot from the heat. Now turn the stand mixer to low. Carefully pour the sugar syrup into the gelatin while trying to avoid both the sides of the bowl and the whisk. If you hit the side, some of the sugar will likely harden on the bowl and not get mixed in. This problem is smaller than the splattering that could occur should you hit the whisk. In other words, you definitely want to stay away from the whisk. Once all of the sugar syrup has been mixed in, slowly raise the speed of the mixer to high. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80517\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/whipping-marshmallow.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/whipping-marshmallow.jpg\" alt=\"The marshmallow mixture must be whipped for a long time to add volume while it cools. You’ll know it is ready when the mixture loses its gloss and holds tightly to the whisk. The marshmallow mixture on the left is glossy and trails off of the beater; it is not quite finished. The marshmallow mixture on the right is matte and forms a stiff mound on the whisk; it is ready to go. Photos: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"625\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80517\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The marshmallow mixture must be whipped for a long time to add volume while it cools. You’ll know it is ready when the mixture loses its gloss and holds tightly to the whisk. The marshmallow mixture on the left is glossy and trails off of the beater; it is not quite finished. The marshmallow mixture on the right is matte and forms a stiff mound on the whisk; it is ready to go. Photos: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the marshmallow mixes, it will cool and increase in volume rapidly. You will notice the color change to white and the mixture will slowly lose its gloss. Once the mixture is thick, add 1 teaspoon of vanilla. Continue to beat until the marshmallow is very thick and does not stream down off of the whisk when pulled out of the bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80510\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/filling-piping-bag.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/filling-piping-bag.jpg\" alt=\"Be sure to twist and pinch the bottom of the piping bag to prevent the marshmallow mixture from leaking out while it is being added to the piping bag. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"700\" height=\"876\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80510\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Be sure to twist and pinch the bottom of the piping bag to prevent the marshmallow mixture from leaking out while it is being added to the piping bag. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now transfer the marshmallow mixture to the piping bag. To keep the marshmallow from falling out of the tip, make sure the bag is twisted right above the tip. Do your best to transfer all of the marshmallow mixture to the bag. Unfold the top of the bag and compress the marshmallow towards the tip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80514\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/piping-body.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/piping-body.jpg\" alt=\"Start by piping the body of the Peep on to the sugar-lined baking sheet. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"607\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80514\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Start by piping the body of the Peep on to the sugar-lined baking sheet. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Here comes the tricky part: piping. I must admit that I never really got the hang of making perfect Peeps, so don’t sweat it if your Peeps look more like sea lions than baby chicks. They’ll still taste good. To shape the Peeps, start by forming the body: Hold the bag about 1 inch above the sugar-lined baking sheet at a 90-degree angle. Squeeze the marshmallow mixture out of the bag, allowing it to form a 1-inch round before beginning to taper. You should try to form a body in the shape of a fat tadpole. Release the pressure on the bag and pull the bag upwards to form the tail. You may need to wiggle the bag a little to get the marshmallow to separate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80515\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/piping-head.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/piping-head.jpg\" alt=\"Pipe a smaller mound of marshmallow mixture on top of the body to form the head, snaking the direction of the marshmallow to form a beak. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"628\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80515\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pipe a smaller mound of marshmallow mixture on top of the body to form the head, snaking the direction of the marshmallow to form a beak. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Form the head by placing the bag at a 90-degree angle above the widest part of the body. Slow pipe more marshmallow mixture onto the body, moving the bag back towards the tail. Once you reach the middle of the body, reverse directions and move the bag back towards the front. At the same time, release pressure on the bag so that the marshmallow stops flowing and forms something of a beak shape. Again, you will likely need to wiggle the bag a little to separate the Peep from the tip. Continue piping Peeps until you run out of marshmallow. If you need to do any touch ups or move the Peeps around on the tray, use slightly damp fingers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80507\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/coating-in-sugar.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/coating-in-sugar.jpg\" alt=\"Coat the piped Peeps with the remaining dyed sugar. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"684\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80507\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Coat the piped Peeps with the remaining dyed sugar. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once you’ve piped all of the Peeps, sprinkle them with the remaining dyed sugar. I found that it was easiest to coat the tops and broad sides of the Peeps first, and then turning them to coat until the head, neck, and tail. Once they’ve got a layer of sugar, you should be able to handle them without sticking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, make the eyes. Some recipes called for making icing to paint onto the Peeps, but that additional process seemed unnecessary. All you really need is a little cocoa powder and water. I found that a 2:1 ratio of cocoa to water makes a good chocolate paint. Mix the cocoa and water together well to get out any errant clumps. Then use a toothpick to dot eyes and any other decorations you’d like to add to the Peeps. If you’re making Peeps with kids, you may want to let them take some creative license and transform the Peeps into marshmallow dinosaurs. (It wouldn’t be a stretch.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80509\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/eyes-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/eyes-2.jpg\" alt=\"Use a mixture of cocoa powder and water to form the eyes. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"656\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80509\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Use a mixture of cocoa powder and water to form the eyes. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Let the decorated Peeps sit out at room temperature for 4 to 6 hours to let the marshmallow dry and set. You can eat them right away, but they will be extremely soft and messy. The Peeps will maintain their texture for 2 to 3 days, covered in an airtight container. If you like stale Peeps (I do), you can store them for much longer.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: DIY Marshmallow Peeps\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 18 candies\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> Large piping tips are often sold in sets of 10-15 tips. If you only want to buy the single tip used in this recipe, you will likely need to order it online or visit a specialty pastry store, like Spun Sugar in Berkeley. Disposable plastic piping bags are widely available online and at stores like Sur la Table. You will need a stand mixer for this recipe; it cannot be hand-whipped. The recipe can be easily doubled if necessary. You will not need to double the colored sugar mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>3 cups granulated sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Food coloring\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 1/2 teaspoons (1 packet) unflavored gelatin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Water, at room temperature\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon corn syrup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon cocoa powder\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Equipment:\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>Baking sheet\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Parchment or wax paper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Disposable plastic piping bag\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2-inch wide piping tip\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Stand mixer with whisk attachment\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Large saucepan\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Instant-read or candy thermometer\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Toothpick\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Place 2 cups of the granulated sugar in a large bowl. Add 5 to 10 drops of food coloring (in the color of your choice) to the sugar. Using a spoon or your fingers, mix the coloring evenly into the sugar. Add more color if necessary. Transfer half of the sugar onto a parchment- or wax paper-lined baking sheet, leaving the remaining sugar in the bowl. Set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fit a piping bag with a 1/2-inch wide round tip. Set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, combine the gelatin with 1/3 cup water. Let gelatin sit while preparing the sugar syrup to let the gelatin soften.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a large saucepan, combine the corn syrup with 1/4 cup water. Pour the remaining 1 cup sugar in the center of the pot so that it doesn’t touch the sides of the pan. Bring mixture to a boil over medium heat without stirring. Continue to cook without stirring until the mixture registers 245 degrees, gently swirling the pan to dissolve the sugar.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Turn mixer on to low speed and carefully pour the hot sugar syrup into the bowl with the gelatin. Gradually increase the mixer speed to high, and continue to mix until the mixture lightens in color, about 6 minutes. Beat in the vanilla. Continue to beat the mixer until the marshmallow has lost its gloss and is very thick, 1 to 3 more minutes. Using a spatula, transfer the marshmallow mixture to the piping bag.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Starting with the body, begin piping the Peeps onto the sugar-lined baking sheet: Hold the bag about 1 inch above the sugar at a 90-degree angle. Squeeze the marshmallow out of the bag, allowing it to form a 1-inch round before pulling it back towards you. Taper the marshmallow as you go, forming a body. Release the pressure on the bag and pull the bag upwards to form the tail. Form the head by placing the bag at a 90-degree angle above the widest part of the body. Pipe onto the body, moving the bag back towards the tail. Once reaching the middle of the body, reverse directions and move the bag back towards the front. At the same time, release pressure on the bag so that the marshmallow stops flowing and forms a beak shape. Repeat with the remaining marshmallow mixture.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Using a spoon, sprinkle the Peeps to coat with the remaining 1 cup colored sugar.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix the cocoa powder with 1 1/2 teaspoons water until it forms a thick paste. Use a toothpick or thin brush to dab the chocolate mixture onto the Peeps to form eyes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Let the Peeps sit out uncovered at room temperature for 4-6 hours to set the marshmallow before serving. Transfer to an airtight container for storage. The Peeps will keep for at least 2 to 3 days at room temperature.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Think You Know How To Cook Eggs? Chances Are You're Doing It Wrong ",
"title": "Think You Know How To Cook Eggs? Chances Are You're Doing It Wrong ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80379\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/cracked-egg-8364905a01e9807c4e77609316667a1ed88b3d82.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/cracked-egg-8364905a01e9807c4e77609316667a1ed88b3d82.jpg\" alt='\"The egg is a lens through which to view the entire craft of cooking,\" says food writer Michael Ruhlman. Photo: Donna Turner Ruhlman' width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80379\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"The egg is a lens through which to view the entire craft of cooking,\" says food writer Michael Ruhlman. Photo: Donna Turner Ruhlman\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/125167196/npr-staff/archive\">NPR Staff\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/11/301013384/think-you-know-how-to-cook-eggs-chances-are-youre-doing-it-wrong\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/11/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just in time for Easter, food writer \u003ca href=\"http://blog.ruhlman.com/\">Michael Ruhlman\u003c/a> has a new cookbook that will likely change the way you think about the egg. At the very least, you may learn how to spruce up your scrambled egg technique.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Egg: A Culinary Exploration of the World's Most Versatile Ingredient\u003c/em> is a guide to perfecting the most familiar of egg dishes — from poached to hard boiled — but also mastering béarnaise sauce and meringues.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80386\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/301440205/egg-a-culinary-exploration-of-the-worlds-most-versatile-ingredient\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/egg-book-lg.jpg\" alt=\" Egg: A Culinary Exploration of the World's Most Versatile Ingredient. By Michael Ruhlman and Donna Turner Ruhlman\" width=\"300\" height=\"385\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80386\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Egg: A Culinary Exploration of the World's Most Versatile Ingredient. By Michael Ruhlman and Donna Turner Ruhlman\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to Rulhman, who won a James Beard Foundation Award in 2012, the (hen) egg towers above the other foods in your kitchen because of its versatility. (Check out this \u003ca href=\"http://www.bonappetit.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Ruhlman-Egg-Flowchart.jpg\">amazing egg flow chart\u003c/a>, a poster version of which comes folded inside the book.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He writes:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In the kitchen, the egg is neither ingredient nor finished dish, but rather a singularity with 1,000 ends. Scrambled eggs and angel food cake and ice cream and aioli and popovers and gougeres and macaroons and a gin fizz aren't separate entities. They're all part of the egg continuum. They are all one thing. The egg is a lens through which to view the entire craft of cooking. By working our way through the egg, we become powerful cooks. \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Its role in the potato, onion and cheese frittata is as unifier to other ingredients. \"The egg combines them, makes them whole,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In another dish featured in the book, the seafood roulade, the egg white is a binder, which gives the dish a smooth texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But often, Ruhlman argues, we don't treat our eggs very well. Take scrambled eggs. \"It's one of the most overcooked dishes in America,\" he says. \"We kill our eggs with heat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, we need, in most instances, to give the egg gentle heat. \"When you cook them very slowly over very gentle heat, the curds form. And as you sit, the rest of the egg sort of warms but doesn't fully cook and becomes a sauce for the curds. So it should be a creamy and delicious and delicate preparation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why do we overdo it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We overdo it because of lack of knowledge, and some people are afraid of their eggs,\" says Ruhlman. \"I've never gotten sick from an egg — that I know of.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He adds: \"We're taught in many ways to fear our food. It does a great disservice to the people who want to cook their own food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And as for the most basic task of cracking an egg, Ruhlman says he learned from \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/cook/chefs/bio/andre-soltner\">André Soltner\u003c/a>, the famed French chef of Lutèce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He just tapped it gently on a flat surface, and he gently just pulled the egg apart,\" says Ruhlman. \"I love the gentleness of the way he handled an egg, and I always think about that when I crack an egg.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what about the short-order cook thing of whacking an egg on the pot and throwing it in? \"Not the best way, but sometimes it's what's called for.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Michael Ruhlman's Potato, Onion, and Cheese Frittata from \u003cem>Egg: A Culinary Exploration of the World's Most Versatile Ingredient\u003c/em>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80378\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1449px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/fritatta_credit-donna-turner-ruhlman-84585914a287df25bd91cdc35196cd7847abf749.jpe\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/fritatta_credit-donna-turner-ruhlman-84585914a287df25bd91cdc35196cd7847abf749.jpe\" alt=\"Potato, Onion, and Cheese Frittata. Photo: Donna Turner Ruhlman\" width=\"1449\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80378\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Potato, Onion, and Cheese Frittata. Photo: Donna Turner Ruhlman\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Serves 4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 small potato, peeled and cut into small dice (about 1 cup/225 grams)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 onion, cut into small dice (about 1/2 cup/100 grams)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 eggs, thoroughly blended\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup/60 grams shredded cheddar cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 avocados, peeled, pitted, and diced (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the broiler.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium nonstick fry pan, combine the potatoes and olive oil over medium-high heat and stir or toss them in the pan to coat the potatoes with oil. Add a three-finger pinch of salt, just to coat the surface. When the potatoes are lightly browned, add the onions, salt to coat the onions, and continue to cook until the onions are tender, stirring or tossing the potato and onion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the eggs in a medium bowl and add the cheese, along with ½ teaspoon salt and several grinds of pepper, and stir to combine and disperse the cheese. Pour the egg mixture over the potatoes and onions and reduce the heat to medium, swirling the pan so that the eggs even out. Cook until the edges are set, a couple of minutes depending on the heat level, checking to make sure that the eggs aren't sticking. Place the pan underneath the broiler until the eggs are just set, a minute or two depending on your broiler. When the top is set, invert the frittata onto a cutting board, cover with the diced avocado, if using, and cut into wedges. Serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Michael Ruhlman's \u003cstrong>Seafood Roulade with Scallops and Crab\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80380\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/seafood-roulade-c12f75611227659e039285ff80f617e3185949dd.jpe\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/seafood-roulade-c12f75611227659e039285ff80f617e3185949dd.jpe\" alt=\"Seafood Roulade with Scallops and Crab. Photo: Donna Turner Ruhlman\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80380\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Seafood Roulade with Scallops and Crab. Photo: Donna Turner Ruhlman\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 8 (3-ounce) portions\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 leek, white part only, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound/450 grams peeled, deveined shrimp\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 egg whites\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup/240 milliliters heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces/120 grams scallops, cut into chunks if large or whole if small\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces/120 grams lump crabmeat\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons minced fresh chives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat the butter in a small sauté pan over medium heat. Add the leek and sauté until tender but not brown. Transfer to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until chilled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Puree the shrimp with the egg whites and salt in a food processor. With the machine running, slowly add half of the cream through the feed tube. The mixture should be stiff enough to shape. Continue adding the rest of the cream with the machine running.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the shrimp mousseline to a mixing bowl and add the chilled leeks, scallops, crab, and chives, gently folding to distribute everything evenly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wet your counter slightly and lay out a sheet of plastic wrap (use Glad wrap if you're concerned about cooking in plastic), at least 2 feet/60 centimeters long. Spoon the seafood mixture along the center of the plastic wrap. Fold the plastic wrap over the mousseline and roll it into a tube about 2½ inches/6 centimeters in diameter. Twist each end of the plastic wrap to form a tight roulade as you roll it on the counter. If it gets out of shape on you, unroll it onto a new sheet of plastic and start again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring a large pot of water to 180˚F/82˚C. Drop the roulade into the water and weigh it down with an appropriately sized plate to keep it submerged. Cook the roulade, maintaining a water temperature of between 170˚ and 185˚F/77˚ and 85˚C, until an instant-read thermometer reads between 140˚ and 150˚F/60˚ and 65˚C when inserted into the center of the roulade, 45 to 50 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the roulade is cooking, fill a large bowl with half ice and half water. When the roulade is done, submerge it in the ice bath until thoroughly chilled, 15 minutes or so. Remove the plastic wrap and serve (see the headnote for suggestions). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Food writer Michael Ruhlman has a new cookbook that's an homage to eggs. And where do Americans so often go wrong? Ruhlman says we usually overcook even the simplest dish of scrambled eggs.",
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"description": "Food writer Michael Ruhlman has a new cookbook that's an homage to eggs. And where do Americans so often go wrong? Ruhlman says we usually overcook even the simplest dish of scrambled eggs.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80379\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/cracked-egg-8364905a01e9807c4e77609316667a1ed88b3d82.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/cracked-egg-8364905a01e9807c4e77609316667a1ed88b3d82.jpg\" alt='\"The egg is a lens through which to view the entire craft of cooking,\" says food writer Michael Ruhlman. Photo: Donna Turner Ruhlman' width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80379\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"The egg is a lens through which to view the entire craft of cooking,\" says food writer Michael Ruhlman. Photo: Donna Turner Ruhlman\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/125167196/npr-staff/archive\">NPR Staff\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/11/301013384/think-you-know-how-to-cook-eggs-chances-are-youre-doing-it-wrong\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/11/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just in time for Easter, food writer \u003ca href=\"http://blog.ruhlman.com/\">Michael Ruhlman\u003c/a> has a new cookbook that will likely change the way you think about the egg. At the very least, you may learn how to spruce up your scrambled egg technique.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Egg: A Culinary Exploration of the World's Most Versatile Ingredient\u003c/em> is a guide to perfecting the most familiar of egg dishes — from poached to hard boiled — but also mastering béarnaise sauce and meringues.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80386\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/301440205/egg-a-culinary-exploration-of-the-worlds-most-versatile-ingredient\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/egg-book-lg.jpg\" alt=\" Egg: A Culinary Exploration of the World's Most Versatile Ingredient. By Michael Ruhlman and Donna Turner Ruhlman\" width=\"300\" height=\"385\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80386\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Egg: A Culinary Exploration of the World's Most Versatile Ingredient. By Michael Ruhlman and Donna Turner Ruhlman\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to Rulhman, who won a James Beard Foundation Award in 2012, the (hen) egg towers above the other foods in your kitchen because of its versatility. (Check out this \u003ca href=\"http://www.bonappetit.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Ruhlman-Egg-Flowchart.jpg\">amazing egg flow chart\u003c/a>, a poster version of which comes folded inside the book.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He writes:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In the kitchen, the egg is neither ingredient nor finished dish, but rather a singularity with 1,000 ends. Scrambled eggs and angel food cake and ice cream and aioli and popovers and gougeres and macaroons and a gin fizz aren't separate entities. They're all part of the egg continuum. They are all one thing. The egg is a lens through which to view the entire craft of cooking. By working our way through the egg, we become powerful cooks. \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Its role in the potato, onion and cheese frittata is as unifier to other ingredients. \"The egg combines them, makes them whole,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In another dish featured in the book, the seafood roulade, the egg white is a binder, which gives the dish a smooth texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But often, Ruhlman argues, we don't treat our eggs very well. Take scrambled eggs. \"It's one of the most overcooked dishes in America,\" he says. \"We kill our eggs with heat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, we need, in most instances, to give the egg gentle heat. \"When you cook them very slowly over very gentle heat, the curds form. And as you sit, the rest of the egg sort of warms but doesn't fully cook and becomes a sauce for the curds. So it should be a creamy and delicious and delicate preparation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why do we overdo it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We overdo it because of lack of knowledge, and some people are afraid of their eggs,\" says Ruhlman. \"I've never gotten sick from an egg — that I know of.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He adds: \"We're taught in many ways to fear our food. It does a great disservice to the people who want to cook their own food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And as for the most basic task of cracking an egg, Ruhlman says he learned from \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/cook/chefs/bio/andre-soltner\">André Soltner\u003c/a>, the famed French chef of Lutèce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He just tapped it gently on a flat surface, and he gently just pulled the egg apart,\" says Ruhlman. \"I love the gentleness of the way he handled an egg, and I always think about that when I crack an egg.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what about the short-order cook thing of whacking an egg on the pot and throwing it in? \"Not the best way, but sometimes it's what's called for.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Michael Ruhlman's Potato, Onion, and Cheese Frittata from \u003cem>Egg: A Culinary Exploration of the World's Most Versatile Ingredient\u003c/em>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80378\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1449px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/fritatta_credit-donna-turner-ruhlman-84585914a287df25bd91cdc35196cd7847abf749.jpe\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/fritatta_credit-donna-turner-ruhlman-84585914a287df25bd91cdc35196cd7847abf749.jpe\" alt=\"Potato, Onion, and Cheese Frittata. Photo: Donna Turner Ruhlman\" width=\"1449\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80378\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Potato, Onion, and Cheese Frittata. Photo: Donna Turner Ruhlman\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Serves 4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 small potato, peeled and cut into small dice (about 1 cup/225 grams)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 onion, cut into small dice (about 1/2 cup/100 grams)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 eggs, thoroughly blended\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup/60 grams shredded cheddar cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 avocados, peeled, pitted, and diced (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the broiler.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium nonstick fry pan, combine the potatoes and olive oil over medium-high heat and stir or toss them in the pan to coat the potatoes with oil. Add a three-finger pinch of salt, just to coat the surface. When the potatoes are lightly browned, add the onions, salt to coat the onions, and continue to cook until the onions are tender, stirring or tossing the potato and onion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the eggs in a medium bowl and add the cheese, along with ½ teaspoon salt and several grinds of pepper, and stir to combine and disperse the cheese. Pour the egg mixture over the potatoes and onions and reduce the heat to medium, swirling the pan so that the eggs even out. Cook until the edges are set, a couple of minutes depending on the heat level, checking to make sure that the eggs aren't sticking. Place the pan underneath the broiler until the eggs are just set, a minute or two depending on your broiler. When the top is set, invert the frittata onto a cutting board, cover with the diced avocado, if using, and cut into wedges. Serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Michael Ruhlman's \u003cstrong>Seafood Roulade with Scallops and Crab\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80380\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/seafood-roulade-c12f75611227659e039285ff80f617e3185949dd.jpe\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/seafood-roulade-c12f75611227659e039285ff80f617e3185949dd.jpe\" alt=\"Seafood Roulade with Scallops and Crab. Photo: Donna Turner Ruhlman\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80380\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Seafood Roulade with Scallops and Crab. Photo: Donna Turner Ruhlman\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 8 (3-ounce) portions\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 leek, white part only, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound/450 grams peeled, deveined shrimp\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 egg whites\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup/240 milliliters heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces/120 grams scallops, cut into chunks if large or whole if small\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces/120 grams lump crabmeat\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons minced fresh chives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat the butter in a small sauté pan over medium heat. Add the leek and sauté until tender but not brown. Transfer to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until chilled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Puree the shrimp with the egg whites and salt in a food processor. With the machine running, slowly add half of the cream through the feed tube. The mixture should be stiff enough to shape. Continue adding the rest of the cream with the machine running.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the shrimp mousseline to a mixing bowl and add the chilled leeks, scallops, crab, and chives, gently folding to distribute everything evenly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wet your counter slightly and lay out a sheet of plastic wrap (use Glad wrap if you're concerned about cooking in plastic), at least 2 feet/60 centimeters long. Spoon the seafood mixture along the center of the plastic wrap. Fold the plastic wrap over the mousseline and roll it into a tube about 2½ inches/6 centimeters in diameter. Twist each end of the plastic wrap to form a tight roulade as you roll it on the counter. If it gets out of shape on you, unroll it onto a new sheet of plastic and start again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring a large pot of water to 180˚F/82˚C. Drop the roulade into the water and weigh it down with an appropriately sized plate to keep it submerged. Cook the roulade, maintaining a water temperature of between 170˚ and 185˚F/77˚ and 85˚C, until an instant-read thermometer reads between 140˚ and 150˚F/60˚ and 65˚C when inserted into the center of the roulade, 45 to 50 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the roulade is cooking, fill a large bowl with half ice and half water. When the roulade is done, submerge it in the ice bath until thoroughly chilled, 15 minutes or so. Remove the plastic wrap and serve (see the headnote for suggestions). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "'Test Kitchen': Have Your (Gluten-Free) Cake, And Love Eating It Too",
"title": "'Test Kitchen': Have Your (Gluten-Free) Cake, And Love Eating It Too",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79337\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1536px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_birthday-cupcakes_0131_slide-4353dd59fef0db7dedc17fafbdb999da13a7b790.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-79337\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_birthday-cupcakes_0131_slide-4353dd59fef0db7dedc17fafbdb999da13a7b790.jpg\" alt=\"According to America's Test Kitchen, the best gluten-free flours to bake with contain four ingredients — brown rice flour, white rice flour, potato starch and tapioca starch. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"1536\" height=\"1023\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">According to America's Test Kitchen, the best gluten-free flours to bake with contain four ingredients — brown rice flour, white rice flour, potato starch and tapioca starch. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/03/20/291873792/test-kitchen-have-your-gluten-free-cake-and-love-eating-it-too\">Fresh Air\u003c/a> (3/20/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/03/20140320_fa_01.mp3\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took hundreds of batches of muffins, cakes and cookies before Jack Bishop and Julia Collin Davison — of the public TV series \u003cem>America's Test Kitchen\u003c/em> — figured out the best ways to make delicious baked goods without gluten. They also conducted taste tests of packaged gluten-free breads and pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Terry Gross that the show's normal testing procedures \"really worked to help us get at the heart of what makes gluten-free things taste just as good as traditional baked goods.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/291877375/the-how-can-it-be-gluten-free-cookbook-revolutionary-techniques-groundbreaking-r\">\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-79344\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/how-can-it-be-gluten-free-book.jpg\" alt=\"The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook. Revolutionary Techniques. Groundbreaking Recipes. By America's Test Kitchen \" width=\"300\" height=\"374\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop and Collin Davison edited \u003cem>The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook\u003c/em>. They join \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em> to share tips, secrets and favorite recipes for gluten-free baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On what gluten is and does\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop: There are two proteins in wheat — glutenin and gliadin — and they are basically wrapped around starch molecules, and they're basically inert. But when you add water or another liquid, you are bringing those proteins back to life, and they unwind from the starch molecules and attach to each other, and the more you knead or mix the dough or the batter, the more they will attach to each other and they form this elastic network that is called gluten\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The gluten is really what traps the bubbles, the carbon dioxide, that is either coming from yeast, from baking soda, from baking powder; and it's what gives bread, cookies, cake their structure. It helps turn them from doughs and batters into beautiful, risen baked goods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On common problems with gluten-free foods \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: Gluten is kind of magical, and so when you take it out of the equation, you're left with flours that can't absorb liquid as well, they can't absorb fat as well and they can't trap those air bubbles that are really crucial for baked goods. So you wind up with things that are ... very dense and squat; they're often greasy and they crumble apart. They don't have the binding structure of gluten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the best store-bought gluten-free flour \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: The one that we found worked best universally — and that means in cookies, in bread dough, in biscuits, in muffins — was King Arthur Flour gluten-free blend. And it is very much like, actually, our recipe for gluten-free flour blend (see recipe below) in that it uses two types of rice flours — white and brown — and it also uses two types of starches, which is potato and tapioca. And those four ingredients, we found, were really the magic key to finding a blend that worked almost as good as a wheat flour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the best gluten-free pasta \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: We tested every brand of gluten-free pasta we could get our hands on. We tested it plain, we tested it with sauce, and one brand really rose to the top, again, in terms of its texture and flavor, and that brand is Jovial ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of the brands came out really mushy; they didn't have enough texture. Of course, you'll never get gluten-free pasta that's al dente, but the Jovial came as close to al dente as you can get. Also, it didn't have any \"off flavors\" which is a bonus in this world of gluten-free products. And ... it actually tasted more like traditional wheat pasta that any of the other brands we tried ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop: You could tell what the pasta was going to taste like by looking at the water in the pot. The real problem with any gluten-free pasta — whether it's made of corn, quinoa or brown rice, which is what the Jovial is made of — there isn't enough structure to contain the starches that are in the pasta ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Jovial has more protein and more fiber. And basically what that does is it prevents the starch molecules from bursting. During the cooking process, the starch is hydrating and swelling, which is a good thing, so that it goes from its dry state to something that you can actually eat. But in a lot of the other gluten-free pasta brands that we tested, the starches kept on swelling and eventually they exploded, and you could look in the pot and see the starches because the pasta water was now cloudy — it basically looked like milk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On foods that are impossible to make gluten-free\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: I'll never say never because I always like a good challenge. ... Gluten-free phyllo dough — not something I think we can do — and a gluten-free puff pastry. That one — big question mark ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop: I think a croissant would be pretty hard to make gluten-free ... in large part because of the butter issue, which is the flour has so much trouble absorbing fat and you really don't want a low-fat croissant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the trick to making gluten-free sugar cookies\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: You're dealing with the maximum amount of butter and sugar, and that's what gives a traditional sugar cookie its flavor. So [in the gluten-free version,] you can't use all that butter because it just leeches out and what you wind up with is fried cookies on the baking sheet, which are pretty disgusting. The other issue is that ... they'll just spread as much as they want, as much as they're allowed. ... When you're dealing with gluten-free batter or gluten-free cookie dough that doesn't have a lot of binders, it will just spread and spread ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The solution ... was when you take out the sugar and you take out the butter and you take out all that flavor, you need to replace it with a different kind of flavor and fat that will stay in the cookie and the fat won't leech out during baking — and that turned out to be almonds. When you think about almonds, it has a lot of natural fat in it, and those almonds will hold onto their fat and their flavor in the oven. ... So almonds, or almond flour, was the key to the sugar cookie, along with xanthan gum [as a binder].\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cupcakes\">\u003c/a>Dark Chocolate Cupcakes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Why This Recipe Works\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ultimate chocolate cupcakes are moist and tender with rich chocolate flavor. Taking a cue from the success of our moist and tender Chocolate Layer Cake, we scaled the recipe to fit in a standard 12-cup muffin tin and simply adjusted the baking time. The combination of rich chocolate flavor and light, fluffy crumb once again fooled tasters into thinking these cupcakes couldn't possibly be gluten-free. Once frosted, serve the cupcakes within a few hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79336\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_chocolate-cupcakessmall-33b4f1eaf45d3cd38ca0568e10e6cd9e07c320b7.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-79336\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_chocolate-cupcakessmall-33b4f1eaf45d3cd38ca0568e10e6cd9e07c320b7.jpg\" alt=\"Dark Chocolate Cupcakes. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1087\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dark Chocolate Cupcakes. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Makes 12 cupcakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped\u003cbr>\n1 ounce (1/3 cup) unsweetened cocoa powder\u003cbr>\n3 1/2 ounces (3/4 cup) ATK Gluten-Free Flour Blend (see recipe below)\u003cbr>\n3/4 teaspoon baking powder\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon baking soda\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon xanthan gum\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n2 large eggs\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n5 1/4 ounces (3/4 cup) sugar\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup whole milk\u003cbr>\n2 cups frosting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line 12-cup muffin tin with paper or foil liners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Microwave oil, chocolate, and cocoa together in bowl at 50 percent power, stirring occasionally, until melted, about 2 minutes. Whisk mixture until smooth, then set aside to cool slightly. In separate bowl, whisk flour blend, baking powder, baking soda, xanthan gum, and salt together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. In large bowl, whisk eggs and vanilla together. Whisk in sugar until well combined. Whisk in cooled chocolate mixture and milk until combined. Whisk in flour blend mixture until batter is thoroughly combined and smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Using ice cream scoop or large spoon, portion batter evenly into prepared muffin tin. Bake until toothpick inserted into center of cupcakes comes out clean, 16 to 18 minutes, rotating muffin tin halfway through baking. Let cupcakes cool in muffin tin on wire rack for 10 minutes. Remove cupcakes from tin and let cool completely, about 1 hour. (Unfrosted cupcakes can be stored in airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 day.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Spread or pipe frosting over top of cupcakes and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook.\u003cem> Excerpted by permission of America's Test Kitchen. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cookies\">\u003c/a>Chocolate Chip Cookies\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Why This Recipe Works\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We started our testing by swapping in our flour blend for the all-purpose flour in a standard Toll House cookie recipe. It was no surprise that these cookies had problems: They were flat, sandy, and greasy. We'd discovered during our baked goods testing that gluten-free flour blends simply can't absorb as much fat as all-purpose flour can, so cutting back on the butter helped to minimize greasiness. Less butter, along with some xanthan gum, also helped alleviate the spread issue, so the cookies didn't bake up so flat. As for the sandiness, we knew from our gluten-free muffin testing that fixing this problem required a two-step approach. The starches in our blend needed more liquid as well as more time to hydrate and soften, so we added a couple tablespoons of milk and let the dough rest for 30 minutes. This resting time also had a secondary benefit: It gave the sugar time to dissolve, which led to faster caramelization in the oven. And that meant a cookie not just with deeper flavor, but also with a chewier center and crisper edges. Finally, we wanted our cookies to be less cakey and more chewy. We realized creaming the butter, as the original Toll House recipe directs, was aerating the butter too much. Melting the butter instead, and changing the ratio of brown sugar to granulated sugar, gave our cookies the right chewy texture. The extra brown sugar also gave our cookies a more complex, toffee-like flavor. Bite for bite, this was a chocolate chip cookie that could rival the best versions of the classic. Not all brands of chocolate chips are processed in a gluten-free facility, so read labels carefully.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79338\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1108px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_chocolate_chip_cookiessmall_custom-cf7e8fd10997aa8ebc0850d811e334b486dbbb9d.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-79338\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_chocolate_chip_cookiessmall_custom-cf7e8fd10997aa8ebc0850d811e334b486dbbb9d.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Chip Cookies. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"1108\" height=\"1421\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate Chip Cookies. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Makes about 24 cookies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 ounces (13/4 cups) ATK Gluten-Free Flour Blend (see recipe below)\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon baking soda\u003cbr>\n3/4 teaspoon xanthan gum\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted\u003cbr>\n5 1/4 ounces (3/4 cup packed) light brown sugar\u003cbr>\n2 1/3 ounces (1/3 cup) granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n1 large egg\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons milk\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n7 1/2 ounces (11/4 cups) semisweet chocolate chips\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Whisk flour blend, baking soda, xanthan gum, and salt together in medium bowl; set aside. Whisk melted butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar together in large bowl until well combined and smooth. Whisk in egg, milk, and vanilla and continue to whisk until smooth. Stir in flour mixture with rubber spatula and mix until soft, homogeneous dough forms. Fold in chocolate chips. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let dough rest for 30 minutes. (Dough will be sticky and soft.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Using 2 soup spoons and working with about 11/2 tablespoons of dough at a time, portion dough and space 2 inches apart on prepared sheets. Bake cookies, 1 sheet at a time, until golden brown and edges have begun to set but centers are still soft, 11 to 13 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Let cookies cool on sheet for 5 minutes, then transfer to wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature. (Cookies are best eaten on day they are baked, but they can be cooled and placed immediately in airtight container and stored at room temperature for up to 1 day.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook.\u003cem> Excerpted by permission of America's Test Kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"flourblend\">\u003c/a>The America's Test Kitchen Gluten-Free Flour Blend\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Makes 42 ounces (About 9 1/3 cups)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Be sure to use potato starch, not potato flour. Tapioca starch is also sold as tapioca flour; they are interchangeable.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>24 ounces (4 1/2 cups plus 1/3 cup) white rice flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7 1/2 ounces (1 2/3 cups) brown rice flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7 ounces (1 1/3 cups) potato starch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 ounces (3/4 cup) tapioca starch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 ounce (3 tablespoons) nonfat milk powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whisk all ingredients together in a large bowl until well combined. Transfer to airtight container and refrigerate for up to 3 months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook.\u003cem> Excerpted by permission of America's Test Kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "\u003cem>America's Test Kitchen\u003c/em> knows how to make gluten-free food taste just as good as the regular stuff. They tell \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em> about the best packaged pasta, and the secrets of gluten-free baking.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79337\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1536px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_birthday-cupcakes_0131_slide-4353dd59fef0db7dedc17fafbdb999da13a7b790.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-79337\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_birthday-cupcakes_0131_slide-4353dd59fef0db7dedc17fafbdb999da13a7b790.jpg\" alt=\"According to America's Test Kitchen, the best gluten-free flours to bake with contain four ingredients — brown rice flour, white rice flour, potato starch and tapioca starch. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"1536\" height=\"1023\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">According to America's Test Kitchen, the best gluten-free flours to bake with contain four ingredients — brown rice flour, white rice flour, potato starch and tapioca starch. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/03/20/291873792/test-kitchen-have-your-gluten-free-cake-and-love-eating-it-too\">Fresh Air\u003c/a> (3/20/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took hundreds of batches of muffins, cakes and cookies before Jack Bishop and Julia Collin Davison — of the public TV series \u003cem>America's Test Kitchen\u003c/em> — figured out the best ways to make delicious baked goods without gluten. They also conducted taste tests of packaged gluten-free breads and pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Terry Gross that the show's normal testing procedures \"really worked to help us get at the heart of what makes gluten-free things taste just as good as traditional baked goods.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/291877375/the-how-can-it-be-gluten-free-cookbook-revolutionary-techniques-groundbreaking-r\">\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-79344\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/how-can-it-be-gluten-free-book.jpg\" alt=\"The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook. Revolutionary Techniques. Groundbreaking Recipes. By America's Test Kitchen \" width=\"300\" height=\"374\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop and Collin Davison edited \u003cem>The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook\u003c/em>. They join \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em> to share tips, secrets and favorite recipes for gluten-free baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On what gluten is and does\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop: There are two proteins in wheat — glutenin and gliadin — and they are basically wrapped around starch molecules, and they're basically inert. But when you add water or another liquid, you are bringing those proteins back to life, and they unwind from the starch molecules and attach to each other, and the more you knead or mix the dough or the batter, the more they will attach to each other and they form this elastic network that is called gluten\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The gluten is really what traps the bubbles, the carbon dioxide, that is either coming from yeast, from baking soda, from baking powder; and it's what gives bread, cookies, cake their structure. It helps turn them from doughs and batters into beautiful, risen baked goods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On common problems with gluten-free foods \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: Gluten is kind of magical, and so when you take it out of the equation, you're left with flours that can't absorb liquid as well, they can't absorb fat as well and they can't trap those air bubbles that are really crucial for baked goods. So you wind up with things that are ... very dense and squat; they're often greasy and they crumble apart. They don't have the binding structure of gluten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the best store-bought gluten-free flour \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: The one that we found worked best universally — and that means in cookies, in bread dough, in biscuits, in muffins — was King Arthur Flour gluten-free blend. And it is very much like, actually, our recipe for gluten-free flour blend (see recipe below) in that it uses two types of rice flours — white and brown — and it also uses two types of starches, which is potato and tapioca. And those four ingredients, we found, were really the magic key to finding a blend that worked almost as good as a wheat flour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the best gluten-free pasta \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: We tested every brand of gluten-free pasta we could get our hands on. We tested it plain, we tested it with sauce, and one brand really rose to the top, again, in terms of its texture and flavor, and that brand is Jovial ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of the brands came out really mushy; they didn't have enough texture. Of course, you'll never get gluten-free pasta that's al dente, but the Jovial came as close to al dente as you can get. Also, it didn't have any \"off flavors\" which is a bonus in this world of gluten-free products. And ... it actually tasted more like traditional wheat pasta that any of the other brands we tried ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop: You could tell what the pasta was going to taste like by looking at the water in the pot. The real problem with any gluten-free pasta — whether it's made of corn, quinoa or brown rice, which is what the Jovial is made of — there isn't enough structure to contain the starches that are in the pasta ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Jovial has more protein and more fiber. And basically what that does is it prevents the starch molecules from bursting. During the cooking process, the starch is hydrating and swelling, which is a good thing, so that it goes from its dry state to something that you can actually eat. But in a lot of the other gluten-free pasta brands that we tested, the starches kept on swelling and eventually they exploded, and you could look in the pot and see the starches because the pasta water was now cloudy — it basically looked like milk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On foods that are impossible to make gluten-free\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: I'll never say never because I always like a good challenge. ... Gluten-free phyllo dough — not something I think we can do — and a gluten-free puff pastry. That one — big question mark ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop: I think a croissant would be pretty hard to make gluten-free ... in large part because of the butter issue, which is the flour has so much trouble absorbing fat and you really don't want a low-fat croissant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the trick to making gluten-free sugar cookies\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: You're dealing with the maximum amount of butter and sugar, and that's what gives a traditional sugar cookie its flavor. So [in the gluten-free version,] you can't use all that butter because it just leeches out and what you wind up with is fried cookies on the baking sheet, which are pretty disgusting. The other issue is that ... they'll just spread as much as they want, as much as they're allowed. ... When you're dealing with gluten-free batter or gluten-free cookie dough that doesn't have a lot of binders, it will just spread and spread ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The solution ... was when you take out the sugar and you take out the butter and you take out all that flavor, you need to replace it with a different kind of flavor and fat that will stay in the cookie and the fat won't leech out during baking — and that turned out to be almonds. When you think about almonds, it has a lot of natural fat in it, and those almonds will hold onto their fat and their flavor in the oven. ... So almonds, or almond flour, was the key to the sugar cookie, along with xanthan gum [as a binder].\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cupcakes\">\u003c/a>Dark Chocolate Cupcakes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Why This Recipe Works\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ultimate chocolate cupcakes are moist and tender with rich chocolate flavor. Taking a cue from the success of our moist and tender Chocolate Layer Cake, we scaled the recipe to fit in a standard 12-cup muffin tin and simply adjusted the baking time. The combination of rich chocolate flavor and light, fluffy crumb once again fooled tasters into thinking these cupcakes couldn't possibly be gluten-free. Once frosted, serve the cupcakes within a few hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79336\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_chocolate-cupcakessmall-33b4f1eaf45d3cd38ca0568e10e6cd9e07c320b7.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-79336\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_chocolate-cupcakessmall-33b4f1eaf45d3cd38ca0568e10e6cd9e07c320b7.jpg\" alt=\"Dark Chocolate Cupcakes. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1087\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dark Chocolate Cupcakes. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Makes 12 cupcakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped\u003cbr>\n1 ounce (1/3 cup) unsweetened cocoa powder\u003cbr>\n3 1/2 ounces (3/4 cup) ATK Gluten-Free Flour Blend (see recipe below)\u003cbr>\n3/4 teaspoon baking powder\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon baking soda\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon xanthan gum\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n2 large eggs\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n5 1/4 ounces (3/4 cup) sugar\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup whole milk\u003cbr>\n2 cups frosting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line 12-cup muffin tin with paper or foil liners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Microwave oil, chocolate, and cocoa together in bowl at 50 percent power, stirring occasionally, until melted, about 2 minutes. Whisk mixture until smooth, then set aside to cool slightly. In separate bowl, whisk flour blend, baking powder, baking soda, xanthan gum, and salt together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. In large bowl, whisk eggs and vanilla together. Whisk in sugar until well combined. Whisk in cooled chocolate mixture and milk until combined. Whisk in flour blend mixture until batter is thoroughly combined and smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Using ice cream scoop or large spoon, portion batter evenly into prepared muffin tin. Bake until toothpick inserted into center of cupcakes comes out clean, 16 to 18 minutes, rotating muffin tin halfway through baking. Let cupcakes cool in muffin tin on wire rack for 10 minutes. Remove cupcakes from tin and let cool completely, about 1 hour. (Unfrosted cupcakes can be stored in airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 day.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Spread or pipe frosting over top of cupcakes and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook.\u003cem> Excerpted by permission of America's Test Kitchen. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cookies\">\u003c/a>Chocolate Chip Cookies\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Why This Recipe Works\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We started our testing by swapping in our flour blend for the all-purpose flour in a standard Toll House cookie recipe. It was no surprise that these cookies had problems: They were flat, sandy, and greasy. We'd discovered during our baked goods testing that gluten-free flour blends simply can't absorb as much fat as all-purpose flour can, so cutting back on the butter helped to minimize greasiness. Less butter, along with some xanthan gum, also helped alleviate the spread issue, so the cookies didn't bake up so flat. As for the sandiness, we knew from our gluten-free muffin testing that fixing this problem required a two-step approach. The starches in our blend needed more liquid as well as more time to hydrate and soften, so we added a couple tablespoons of milk and let the dough rest for 30 minutes. This resting time also had a secondary benefit: It gave the sugar time to dissolve, which led to faster caramelization in the oven. And that meant a cookie not just with deeper flavor, but also with a chewier center and crisper edges. Finally, we wanted our cookies to be less cakey and more chewy. We realized creaming the butter, as the original Toll House recipe directs, was aerating the butter too much. Melting the butter instead, and changing the ratio of brown sugar to granulated sugar, gave our cookies the right chewy texture. The extra brown sugar also gave our cookies a more complex, toffee-like flavor. Bite for bite, this was a chocolate chip cookie that could rival the best versions of the classic. Not all brands of chocolate chips are processed in a gluten-free facility, so read labels carefully.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79338\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1108px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_chocolate_chip_cookiessmall_custom-cf7e8fd10997aa8ebc0850d811e334b486dbbb9d.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-79338\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_chocolate_chip_cookiessmall_custom-cf7e8fd10997aa8ebc0850d811e334b486dbbb9d.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Chip Cookies. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"1108\" height=\"1421\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate Chip Cookies. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Makes about 24 cookies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 ounces (13/4 cups) ATK Gluten-Free Flour Blend (see recipe below)\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon baking soda\u003cbr>\n3/4 teaspoon xanthan gum\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted\u003cbr>\n5 1/4 ounces (3/4 cup packed) light brown sugar\u003cbr>\n2 1/3 ounces (1/3 cup) granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n1 large egg\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons milk\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n7 1/2 ounces (11/4 cups) semisweet chocolate chips\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Whisk flour blend, baking soda, xanthan gum, and salt together in medium bowl; set aside. Whisk melted butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar together in large bowl until well combined and smooth. Whisk in egg, milk, and vanilla and continue to whisk until smooth. Stir in flour mixture with rubber spatula and mix until soft, homogeneous dough forms. Fold in chocolate chips. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let dough rest for 30 minutes. (Dough will be sticky and soft.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Using 2 soup spoons and working with about 11/2 tablespoons of dough at a time, portion dough and space 2 inches apart on prepared sheets. Bake cookies, 1 sheet at a time, until golden brown and edges have begun to set but centers are still soft, 11 to 13 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Let cookies cool on sheet for 5 minutes, then transfer to wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature. (Cookies are best eaten on day they are baked, but they can be cooled and placed immediately in airtight container and stored at room temperature for up to 1 day.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook.\u003cem> Excerpted by permission of America's Test Kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"flourblend\">\u003c/a>The America's Test Kitchen Gluten-Free Flour Blend\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Makes 42 ounces (About 9 1/3 cups)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Be sure to use potato starch, not potato flour. Tapioca starch is also sold as tapioca flour; they are interchangeable.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>24 ounces (4 1/2 cups plus 1/3 cup) white rice flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7 1/2 ounces (1 2/3 cups) brown rice flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7 ounces (1 1/3 cups) potato starch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 ounces (3/4 cup) tapioca starch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 ounce (3 tablespoons) nonfat milk powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whisk all ingredients together in a large bowl until well combined. Transfer to airtight container and refrigerate for up to 3 months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook.\u003cem> Excerpted by permission of America's Test Kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Celebrate the Jewish Holiday Purim with Gluten-Free Hamantaschen",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A cultural truth:\u003c/strong> if you're celebrating a Jewish holiday, someone's been spending quality time in the kitchen to make it happen. Every holiday has its special food, whether it's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/latkes/\">latkes\u003c/a> for Chanukah, apples and honey (or honey cake) for Rosh Hashanah, or \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/passover/\">matzoh\u003c/a> for Passover. But my favorite holiday treats are the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/02/28/eating-hamans-hat-hamantaschen-for-purim/\">hamantaschen\u003c/a> baked for Purim, the early-spring, kid-friendly holiday that celebrates the bravery of Queen Esther, a wife of the Persian king Ahasuerus, in revealing a plot by Haman, the king's advisor, to destroy a community of Persian Jews. By exposing her own previously concealed Jewish identity, Esther, the king's favorite, was able to plead for mercy for her people, and Haman and his plotters perished in their stead. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a holiday that's cultural and historical, rather than specifically religious, and is celebrated accordingly as a kind of Jewish Mardi Gras, with reveling, drinking, dressing up, house-to-house visits, and (my favorite), \u003cem>mishloach manot\u003c/em>, gifts of food shared with friends and neighbors. And always included in the \u003cem>mishloach manot\u003c/em> are hamantaschen, triangular cookies with a plump center pocket filled with jam, ground poppy seeds, or chocolate. Some say they represent Haman's hat, others his ears or his pockets. However you translate them, they're a delicious, buttery cookie with a sweet and tasty filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This gluten-free version uses a mixture of potato starch, tapioca flour, and rice flour. We've also taken a little inspiration from a recent posting about \u003ca href=\"http://www.jewcy.com/jewish-food/not-your-bubbes-purim-cookies-kolooschen-recipe\">koolooschen\u003c/a> on Jewcy, Tablet magazine's lifestyle blog. Writer Rachel Harkham's invention is a cardamom-scented cookie that's part Persian koloocheh, part Eastern European hamantaschen. For filling, she suggests whole or pureed dried sour cherries; we suggest raspberry jam or a tangy filling made from dried cherries, dried cranberries, and golden raisins. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Gluten-Free Hamantaschen\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>You can fill these with any number of fillings. Tradition calls for apricot or prune lekvar, made from dried fruit simmered with citrus juice, sugar, and water until soft, then pureed. You can also use a thick fruit spread, like raspberry or blueberry. We've included a recipe for a tart cherry-cranberry filling, made from dried sour cherries and dried cranberries. Note that the dough needs to be chilled for a few hours before rolling. If your dough remains too soft for rolling, you can roll it into balls instead. Poke the tip of your finger into the center to make an indentation for the filling, add a spoonful of jam or filling, then gently push the sides into a triangle shape. \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Gluten-Free Cookie Dough\u003c/strong>\t\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>8 tbsp (1 stick, 4 oz) butter or margarine, softened\t\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup + 2 tbsp sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 tsp grated lemon rind\t\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 egg\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp rosewater, orange-blossom water, or vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp fresh lemon juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/3 cup white rice flour\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup tapioca starch\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/3 cup potato starch\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp ground cardamom\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/4 tsp baking powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp salt \u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Tart Cherry-Cranberry Filling\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>1/2 cup dried sour cherries\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup dried cranberries\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup golden raisins\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Juice of 1 orange\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp sugar or honey, or to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Mix lemon rind and sugar together. Using a hand-held or stand mixer or a wooden spoon, cream butter with sugar until fluffy. Beat in egg, orange juice, and rosewater, orange-blossom water, or vanilla. In a separate bowl, whisk together flours, potato starch, baking powder, cardamom, and salt. Stir flour mixture into butter mixture, mixing gently until a soft dough is formed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Flatten into a round, wrap in plastic wrap or pop into a resealable plastic bag. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours or overnight. (Otherwise, dough will be too sticky to roll out.) While dough is chilling, making filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. \u003cstrong>To make filling:\u003c/strong> Place ingredients in a small, heavy saucepan. Warm over low heat, stirring frequently, until fruit has softened and plumped up, raisins have plumped up, about 6 minutes. Let cool for a few minutes, then transfer to a food processor or blender. Puree until smooth. Taste and add more sugar or honey, as needed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Preheat oven to 350ºF. Lightly dust a large wooden cutting board or countertop with rice flour. Because this dough tends to be sticky, it’s easiest to roll it out with a sheet of waxed paper between the dough and the rolling pin. This will prevent the dough from sticking and tearing as you roll. Roll out dough into a broad round, about 1/4 inch thick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Using a 3-inch cookie cutter or a drinking glass, stamp out circles of dough. Using a spatula, move the circles onto a cookie sheet, leaving an inch or so between each one. It’s important to fill the rounds on the cookie sheet (rather than on the countertop) as they are hard to move without tearing once they’re filled. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Place a generous spoonful (about 1 tsp, depending on the size of the round) of filling in the center of each round. Fold the right and left sides of the circle into the middle and pinch the top into a point. Fold the bottom half up to meet the folded-in sides. Pinch each side to seal, forming a triangle with a patch of filling peeking out from the middle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Bake for 15-18 minutes, until cookies are pale golden brown around the edges. Let cool on a rack.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "This Saturday is Purim, a lively festival often dubbed the Jewish Mardi Gras. Stephanie Rosenbaum shares a tasty recipe for Gluten-Free Hamantaschen, the traditional triangle-shaped cookies that symbolizes the holiday. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A cultural truth:\u003c/strong> if you're celebrating a Jewish holiday, someone's been spending quality time in the kitchen to make it happen. Every holiday has its special food, whether it's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/latkes/\">latkes\u003c/a> for Chanukah, apples and honey (or honey cake) for Rosh Hashanah, or \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/passover/\">matzoh\u003c/a> for Passover. But my favorite holiday treats are the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/02/28/eating-hamans-hat-hamantaschen-for-purim/\">hamantaschen\u003c/a> baked for Purim, the early-spring, kid-friendly holiday that celebrates the bravery of Queen Esther, a wife of the Persian king Ahasuerus, in revealing a plot by Haman, the king's advisor, to destroy a community of Persian Jews. By exposing her own previously concealed Jewish identity, Esther, the king's favorite, was able to plead for mercy for her people, and Haman and his plotters perished in their stead. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a holiday that's cultural and historical, rather than specifically religious, and is celebrated accordingly as a kind of Jewish Mardi Gras, with reveling, drinking, dressing up, house-to-house visits, and (my favorite), \u003cem>mishloach manot\u003c/em>, gifts of food shared with friends and neighbors. And always included in the \u003cem>mishloach manot\u003c/em> are hamantaschen, triangular cookies with a plump center pocket filled with jam, ground poppy seeds, or chocolate. Some say they represent Haman's hat, others his ears or his pockets. However you translate them, they're a delicious, buttery cookie with a sweet and tasty filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This gluten-free version uses a mixture of potato starch, tapioca flour, and rice flour. We've also taken a little inspiration from a recent posting about \u003ca href=\"http://www.jewcy.com/jewish-food/not-your-bubbes-purim-cookies-kolooschen-recipe\">koolooschen\u003c/a> on Jewcy, Tablet magazine's lifestyle blog. Writer Rachel Harkham's invention is a cardamom-scented cookie that's part Persian koloocheh, part Eastern European hamantaschen. For filling, she suggests whole or pureed dried sour cherries; we suggest raspberry jam or a tangy filling made from dried cherries, dried cranberries, and golden raisins. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Gluten-Free Hamantaschen\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>You can fill these with any number of fillings. Tradition calls for apricot or prune lekvar, made from dried fruit simmered with citrus juice, sugar, and water until soft, then pureed. You can also use a thick fruit spread, like raspberry or blueberry. We've included a recipe for a tart cherry-cranberry filling, made from dried sour cherries and dried cranberries. Note that the dough needs to be chilled for a few hours before rolling. If your dough remains too soft for rolling, you can roll it into balls instead. Poke the tip of your finger into the center to make an indentation for the filling, add a spoonful of jam or filling, then gently push the sides into a triangle shape. \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Gluten-Free Cookie Dough\u003c/strong>\t\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>8 tbsp (1 stick, 4 oz) butter or margarine, softened\t\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup + 2 tbsp sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 tsp grated lemon rind\t\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 egg\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp rosewater, orange-blossom water, or vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp fresh lemon juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/3 cup white rice flour\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup tapioca starch\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/3 cup potato starch\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp ground cardamom\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/4 tsp baking powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp salt \u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Tart Cherry-Cranberry Filling\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>1/2 cup dried sour cherries\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup dried cranberries\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup golden raisins\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Juice of 1 orange\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp sugar or honey, or to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Mix lemon rind and sugar together. Using a hand-held or stand mixer or a wooden spoon, cream butter with sugar until fluffy. Beat in egg, orange juice, and rosewater, orange-blossom water, or vanilla. In a separate bowl, whisk together flours, potato starch, baking powder, cardamom, and salt. Stir flour mixture into butter mixture, mixing gently until a soft dough is formed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Flatten into a round, wrap in plastic wrap or pop into a resealable plastic bag. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours or overnight. (Otherwise, dough will be too sticky to roll out.) While dough is chilling, making filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. \u003cstrong>To make filling:\u003c/strong> Place ingredients in a small, heavy saucepan. Warm over low heat, stirring frequently, until fruit has softened and plumped up, raisins have plumped up, about 6 minutes. Let cool for a few minutes, then transfer to a food processor or blender. Puree until smooth. Taste and add more sugar or honey, as needed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Preheat oven to 350ºF. Lightly dust a large wooden cutting board or countertop with rice flour. Because this dough tends to be sticky, it’s easiest to roll it out with a sheet of waxed paper between the dough and the rolling pin. This will prevent the dough from sticking and tearing as you roll. Roll out dough into a broad round, about 1/4 inch thick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Using a 3-inch cookie cutter or a drinking glass, stamp out circles of dough. Using a spatula, move the circles onto a cookie sheet, leaving an inch or so between each one. It’s important to fill the rounds on the cookie sheet (rather than on the countertop) as they are hard to move without tearing once they’re filled. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Place a generous spoonful (about 1 tsp, depending on the size of the round) of filling in the center of each round. Fold the right and left sides of the circle into the middle and pinch the top into a point. Fold the bottom half up to meet the folded-in sides. Pinch each side to seal, forming a triangle with a patch of filling peeking out from the middle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Bake for 15-18 minutes, until cookies are pale golden brown around the edges. Let cool on a rack.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79070\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/juju_01_wide-f0e31331acffba20be88803456bcf74a59e1f1e0.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/juju_01_wide-f0e31331acffba20be88803456bcf74a59e1f1e0-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"JuJu Harris is the author of The Arcadia Mobile Market Seasonal Cookbook. A former recipient of government food assistance, she now teaches healthy eating skills to low-income families in D.C. Photo: Courtesy of Molly M. Peterson\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79070\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">JuJu Harris is the author of The Arcadia Mobile Market Seasonal Cookbook. A former recipient of government food assistance, she now teaches healthy eating skills to low-income families in D.C. Photo: Courtesy of Molly M. Peterson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by April Harris, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/13/289594815/former-wic-mom-brings-produce-and-cooking-skills-to-dc-s-food-deserts\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/13/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>JuJu Harris didn't set out to write a cookbook, but then again, she didn't set out to raise seven children or accept public assistance to feed them, either. Harris always wanted to work with nature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My dream job was, I was going to grow up and be a national park ranger,\" she says. It didn't quite work out that way. She drifted from job to job in Oakland, Calif., where she was born. At 32, she joined the Peace Corps, traveling to Paraguay to help local farmers improve their crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While she was supposed to be helping the men – the ones who held the farming jobs and the money – she found herself drawn to the women and children. She encouraged the families to put their money into both their agricultural businesses \u003cem>and\u003c/em> their children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I learned the importance of nutrition for women and how it impacts her family,\" Harris says. When the women improved their diets, they had \"more mental energy\" to deal with their children, too, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Years later, back in the states, Harris found herself in a similar situation — with small children, post-partum depression, and little money. She knew she needed to take better care of herself, so she began experimenting with a garden, baking bread, doing whatever she could to supplement the Women, Infants and Children (WIC) food program staples she was receiving. She taught herself to cook with kale, collards, cabbage and other inexpensive and nutritionally dense produce. Neighbors came over. She taught them to cook, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although she's not yet reached her dream of becoming a park ranger, Harris gets to spend plenty of time outdoors these days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She's now teaching low-income families how to choose and cook healthy produce. She's a culinary educator and SNAP outreach coordinator with the \u003ca href=\"http://arcadiafood.org/\">Arcadia Center for Sustainable Food and Agriculture\u003c/a>, a nonprofit group dedicated to creating a more equitable local food system in the Washington, D.C. area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She drives the Center's Mobile Market bus – a kind of farmers market on wheels — into some of the poorest neighborhoods in the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Working at the Mobile Market, I talk to a lot of moms, and many of them tell me, 'I don't know how to cook.' A lot of them are teen mothers. They pick up vegetables and say, 'I don't know what this is. Is it good? Is it hard to cook?'\" Harris says. So she talks up the squash and the Swiss chard, offering tips on how to store and cook them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can bring the food to people's doorstep and make it affordable. But if they don't know how to cook what's available, in the end, you haven't changed anything,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooking skills are just one barrier to healthy eating. A recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.nokidhungry.org/images/cm-study/report-highlights.pdf\">survey\u003c/a> by the nonprofit \u003ca href=\"http://www.nokidhungry.org/about-us\">Share Our Strength\u003c/a> shows that 85 percent of low-income families say eating healthy is important, but only 53 percent say they cook healthy dinners most weeknights. A majority of the 1,500 respondents said cost and time to plan, shop and cook are the biggest barriers to improving their nutrition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79071\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 768px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/arcadia_juju_017_rev_1200px_vert-5893164f3a081679a87856975d966b8e346353c7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/arcadia_juju_017_rev_1200px_vert-5893164f3a081679a87856975d966b8e346353c7-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Baked oatmeal with blueberries, one of the recipes featured in The Arcadia Mobile Market Seasonal Cookbook. "It's possible to eat healthy on a budget," Harris says. "Not easy, but possible." Photo: Courtesy of Molly M. Peterson\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79071\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Baked oatmeal with blueberries, one of the recipes featured in The Arcadia Mobile Market Seasonal Cookbook. \"It's possible to eat healthy on a budget,\" Harris says. \"Not easy, but possible.\" Photo: Courtesy of Molly M. Peterson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After having dozens of these kinds of conversations a day, Harris decided to put together a shopping guide and recipe book she could hand out to these moms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Nothing fancy,\" she says, \"just a little something on some nice cardstock.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She told a couple of her Arcadia colleagues about the idea, and they helped her take it a step further. With the help of Arcadia volunteers and some major grant money, Harris published a coffee table-worthy cookbook. It features saturated color photographs and simple recipes combining \u003ca href=\"http://www.fns.usda.gov/sites/default/files/Snapshot-WIC-Children-WomenFoodPkgs.pdf\">food assistance staples\u003c/a> like milk, eggs and beans, with seasonal produce – dishes like Garlic-Cilantro Fish Marinade and Beet Greens With White Beans And Bacon. It also includes tips for setting up a pantry and a seasonal guide to everything from apples to turnips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shoppers on food assistance who frequent the mobile market can now get free copies of the cookbook. \u003cem>The Arcadia Mobile Market Seasonal Cookbook\u003c/em> is also available to the general public for $20 a copy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Harris wants to get the word out before June, when the WIC program begins handing out farmers' markets checks, which recipients can use to purchase items from the Arcadia bus and other farmers' markets. That's when young moms and others on limited budgets who want to improve their health really come out, Harris says. But many are afraid to try new foods for fear of wasting money, she says, so she gives them guidance, suggesting small changes, like one new meal a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Harris has an easy manner with these moms because she gets it. She's been where many of the people who come to the Mobile Market are now, says Pamela Hess, Arcadia's executive director and the editor — as well as all-around-wrangler — of the cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"JuJu is one part fairy godmother, one part good witch. Her garden is incredible — great tangles of flowers and honeybees and roses and vegetables climbing trellises, and always another bed being laid. Her food bears the same stamp of wild and whimsy and fundamental integrity,\" Hess says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think some of these programs – people are well meaning, but they've never lived the life. I was on WIC till my kid was 5, and one year my husband broke his leg. I've worked at a food bank, I've been on food stamps,\" Harris says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says she's just doing her part. \"The problem of food insecurity is so big, I just do what I can do. And I can cook.\" She hopes the Arcadia cookbook will show that \"it's possible to eat healthy on a budget. Not easy, but possible.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Garlicky Kale Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>From The Arcadia Mobile Market Seasonal Cookbook\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cloves garlic, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ cup lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup soy sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 inches fresh ginger, peeled (ginger is easily peeled with the side of a metal spoon)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ teaspoon of black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch kale, washed, de-ribbbed, and leaves chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 carrot, grated\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup red cabbage, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ cup dried cranberries\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup garbanzo beans\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a blender, add the garlic, lemon juice, soy sauce, ginger, and black pepper and puree. Using the lid opening, slowly add olive oil with the motor running on low to thicken the dressing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, add kale, carrots, cabbage, cranberries and garbanzo beans. Pour dressing into the bowl and toss to coat. Mix thoroughly and let salad sit for at least 20 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79070\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/juju_01_wide-f0e31331acffba20be88803456bcf74a59e1f1e0.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/juju_01_wide-f0e31331acffba20be88803456bcf74a59e1f1e0-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"JuJu Harris is the author of The Arcadia Mobile Market Seasonal Cookbook. A former recipient of government food assistance, she now teaches healthy eating skills to low-income families in D.C. Photo: Courtesy of Molly M. Peterson\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79070\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">JuJu Harris is the author of The Arcadia Mobile Market Seasonal Cookbook. A former recipient of government food assistance, she now teaches healthy eating skills to low-income families in D.C. Photo: Courtesy of Molly M. Peterson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by April Harris, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/13/289594815/former-wic-mom-brings-produce-and-cooking-skills-to-dc-s-food-deserts\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/13/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>JuJu Harris didn't set out to write a cookbook, but then again, she didn't set out to raise seven children or accept public assistance to feed them, either. Harris always wanted to work with nature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My dream job was, I was going to grow up and be a national park ranger,\" she says. It didn't quite work out that way. She drifted from job to job in Oakland, Calif., where she was born. At 32, she joined the Peace Corps, traveling to Paraguay to help local farmers improve their crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While she was supposed to be helping the men – the ones who held the farming jobs and the money – she found herself drawn to the women and children. She encouraged the families to put their money into both their agricultural businesses \u003cem>and\u003c/em> their children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I learned the importance of nutrition for women and how it impacts her family,\" Harris says. When the women improved their diets, they had \"more mental energy\" to deal with their children, too, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Years later, back in the states, Harris found herself in a similar situation — with small children, post-partum depression, and little money. She knew she needed to take better care of herself, so she began experimenting with a garden, baking bread, doing whatever she could to supplement the Women, Infants and Children (WIC) food program staples she was receiving. She taught herself to cook with kale, collards, cabbage and other inexpensive and nutritionally dense produce. Neighbors came over. She taught them to cook, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although she's not yet reached her dream of becoming a park ranger, Harris gets to spend plenty of time outdoors these days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She's now teaching low-income families how to choose and cook healthy produce. She's a culinary educator and SNAP outreach coordinator with the \u003ca href=\"http://arcadiafood.org/\">Arcadia Center for Sustainable Food and Agriculture\u003c/a>, a nonprofit group dedicated to creating a more equitable local food system in the Washington, D.C. area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She drives the Center's Mobile Market bus – a kind of farmers market on wheels — into some of the poorest neighborhoods in the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Working at the Mobile Market, I talk to a lot of moms, and many of them tell me, 'I don't know how to cook.' A lot of them are teen mothers. They pick up vegetables and say, 'I don't know what this is. Is it good? Is it hard to cook?'\" Harris says. So she talks up the squash and the Swiss chard, offering tips on how to store and cook them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can bring the food to people's doorstep and make it affordable. But if they don't know how to cook what's available, in the end, you haven't changed anything,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooking skills are just one barrier to healthy eating. A recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.nokidhungry.org/images/cm-study/report-highlights.pdf\">survey\u003c/a> by the nonprofit \u003ca href=\"http://www.nokidhungry.org/about-us\">Share Our Strength\u003c/a> shows that 85 percent of low-income families say eating healthy is important, but only 53 percent say they cook healthy dinners most weeknights. A majority of the 1,500 respondents said cost and time to plan, shop and cook are the biggest barriers to improving their nutrition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79071\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 768px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/arcadia_juju_017_rev_1200px_vert-5893164f3a081679a87856975d966b8e346353c7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/arcadia_juju_017_rev_1200px_vert-5893164f3a081679a87856975d966b8e346353c7-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Baked oatmeal with blueberries, one of the recipes featured in The Arcadia Mobile Market Seasonal Cookbook. "It's possible to eat healthy on a budget," Harris says. "Not easy, but possible." Photo: Courtesy of Molly M. Peterson\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79071\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Baked oatmeal with blueberries, one of the recipes featured in The Arcadia Mobile Market Seasonal Cookbook. \"It's possible to eat healthy on a budget,\" Harris says. \"Not easy, but possible.\" Photo: Courtesy of Molly M. Peterson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After having dozens of these kinds of conversations a day, Harris decided to put together a shopping guide and recipe book she could hand out to these moms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Nothing fancy,\" she says, \"just a little something on some nice cardstock.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She told a couple of her Arcadia colleagues about the idea, and they helped her take it a step further. With the help of Arcadia volunteers and some major grant money, Harris published a coffee table-worthy cookbook. It features saturated color photographs and simple recipes combining \u003ca href=\"http://www.fns.usda.gov/sites/default/files/Snapshot-WIC-Children-WomenFoodPkgs.pdf\">food assistance staples\u003c/a> like milk, eggs and beans, with seasonal produce – dishes like Garlic-Cilantro Fish Marinade and Beet Greens With White Beans And Bacon. It also includes tips for setting up a pantry and a seasonal guide to everything from apples to turnips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shoppers on food assistance who frequent the mobile market can now get free copies of the cookbook. \u003cem>The Arcadia Mobile Market Seasonal Cookbook\u003c/em> is also available to the general public for $20 a copy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Harris wants to get the word out before June, when the WIC program begins handing out farmers' markets checks, which recipients can use to purchase items from the Arcadia bus and other farmers' markets. That's when young moms and others on limited budgets who want to improve their health really come out, Harris says. But many are afraid to try new foods for fear of wasting money, she says, so she gives them guidance, suggesting small changes, like one new meal a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Harris has an easy manner with these moms because she gets it. She's been where many of the people who come to the Mobile Market are now, says Pamela Hess, Arcadia's executive director and the editor — as well as all-around-wrangler — of the cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"JuJu is one part fairy godmother, one part good witch. Her garden is incredible — great tangles of flowers and honeybees and roses and vegetables climbing trellises, and always another bed being laid. Her food bears the same stamp of wild and whimsy and fundamental integrity,\" Hess says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think some of these programs – people are well meaning, but they've never lived the life. I was on WIC till my kid was 5, and one year my husband broke his leg. I've worked at a food bank, I've been on food stamps,\" Harris says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says she's just doing her part. \"The problem of food insecurity is so big, I just do what I can do. And I can cook.\" She hopes the Arcadia cookbook will show that \"it's possible to eat healthy on a budget. Not easy, but possible.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Garlicky Kale Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>From The Arcadia Mobile Market Seasonal Cookbook\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cloves garlic, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ cup lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup soy sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 inches fresh ginger, peeled (ginger is easily peeled with the side of a metal spoon)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ teaspoon of black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch kale, washed, de-ribbbed, and leaves chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 carrot, grated\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup red cabbage, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ cup dried cranberries\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup garbanzo beans\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a blender, add the garlic, lemon juice, soy sauce, ginger, and black pepper and puree. Using the lid opening, slowly add olive oil with the motor running on low to thicken the dressing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, add kale, carrots, cabbage, cranberries and garbanzo beans. Pour dressing into the bowl and toss to coat. Mix thoroughly and let salad sit for at least 20 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Spirited Sweets for St. Patrick's (or Any) Day",
"title": "Spirited Sweets for St. Patrick's (or Any) Day",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Post by Laura B. Weiss, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/03/12/289084832/spirited-sweets-for-st-patricks-or-any-day\" target=\"_blank\">Kitchen Window for NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/12/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#cake\">Chocolate Kahlua Bundt Cake\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#salad\">Macerated Oranges, Medjool Dates And Grapes with Slivered Almonds\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#bacon\">Beer-Candied Bacon With Thyme\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#milkshake\">Chocolate Mint Milkshake\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Saint Patrick's Day, often the first order of business is to raise a glass to the Irish with a frosty mug of green beer. You might also savor a slice of Irish soda bread, rich with raisins and caraway seeds, or tuck into a hearty dish of corned beef and cabbage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when March 17 rolls around, don't neglect the desserts. You could certainly stick to traditional offerings like shamrock-shaped cookies and emerald-tinged cupcakes. But I tire quickly of all that blazing green. I prefer to punctuate a festive meal with alcohol-infused sweets, from a decadent chocolate Bundt cake to a creamy mint milkshake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's also a bowl of oranges, grapes and dates macerated in white wine, and baked bacon \"candy\" — crisp and mahogany-hued with a glaze of beer, brown sugar, mustard and thyme.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly any sweet creation you can think of could get a boost from a splash of spirits. In baked goods, spirits impart not only flavor but also moisture that creates a sumptuous, tender crumb. Think brownies and cakes soused with beer, or cupcakes laced with gin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alcohol provides an adult upgrade to childhood ice cream favorites such as popsicles, sundaes and floats. Add some zing to a frozen blueberry pop with an injection of vodka, jazz up a hot fudge sundae with a splash of scotch, and pep up the retro root beer float with a dash of rum or vodka.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>White and red wines marry beautifully with just about any fruit, from berries to bananas. On a cold wintry night, I'll happily sit down to a bowl of sliced pears poached in butter, honey, rum and a touch of cinnamon. Dare to be extravagant and top this dish off with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Desserts made with alcohol date back to antiquity. In the ancient Roman cookbook \u003ca href=\"http://www.gutenberg.org/files/29728/29728-h/29728-h.htm\">\u003cem>Apicius\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \"sweet wine was paired with fruits as a syrup and used to flavor cakes,\" says Lynn Oliver, editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodtimeline.org/\">The Food Timeline\u003c/a>. During medieval times, liquor acted as a preservative in baked goods such as English fruitcake. In the U.S., the colonists used alcohol liberally when creating sweet dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Brandy is all over the first American cookbook by Amelia Simmons,\" writes Michael Krondl, author of \u003cem>Sweet Invention\u003c/em>: \u003cem>A History of Dessert,\u003c/em> in an email. Then during Prohibition, liquored-up desserts largely fell out of favor. Recently, though, desserts made with spirits have experienced a revival, perhaps mirroring the recent cocktails renaissance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Europeans have long embraced the idea of alcohol as an essential dessert ingredient. In Italy, there's \u003ca href=\"http://tavolatalk.com/2013/panbriacone-italys-drunken-sweet-bread/#!\">the dome-shaped Italian sweet bread, panettone\u003c/a>, injected with sweet wine or rum. The French have small rum-soaked yeast cakes, \u003cem>baba au rhum,\u003c/em> which Krondl says were probably introduced to France by a Polish king. Then there's the decadent German \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/kitchen/saveur-100-black-forest-cake\">Black Forest cake\u003c/a>, constructed from layers of chocolate sponge cake, whipped cream, sour cherries and kirsch (cherry brandy).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, does alcohol burn off when you cook or bake it? Not completely. But a cake likely retains more spirits than, say, a sauce does.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would think that whatever alcohol is lost in baking is considerably less than what is lost when you boil or flame alcohol in cooking,\" writes Dorrie Greenspan, the author of \u003cem>Baking: From My Home to Yours\u003c/em>, in an email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you want the flavor of spirits but not the buzz, try extracts, which contain little or no alcohol. For recipes calling for light rum, for example, the flavorings company McCormick & Co. \u003ca href=\"http://www.mccormick.com/Spices-and-Flavors/Extracts-and-Food-Colors/Extracts/Imitation-Rum-Extract\">recommends substituting\u003c/a> 1/2 teaspoon of imitation rum per tablespoon of spirit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Buzzed or not, these sweets are my standbys for St. Patrick's Day or any occasion that calls for a dramatic dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cake\">\u003c/a>Chocolate Kahlua Bundt Cake\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This cake, adapted from a 2005 \u003c/em>Gourmet\u003cem> recipe for Chocolate Whiskey Bundt Cake, is rich and delicious, and the coffee liqueur heightens the intensity of the chocolate. This cake improves in flavor if it's made at least a day ahead, and it can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Bring the cake to room temperature before serving.\u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79042\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorcake-ebe1ae4329d4446a4ca0327b79be2aaef47daa5d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorcake-ebe1ae4329d4446a4ca0327b79be2aaef47daa5d-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Kahlua Bundt Cake. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79042\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate Kahlua Bundt Cake. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 10 to 12 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (not Dutch-process) plus 3 tablespoons for dusting the pan\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 3/4 cups brewed espresso or strong coffee\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup coffee-flavored liqueur, such as Kahlua\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 sticks unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup white sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup dark brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon almond extract or vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place oven rack in the middle position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Butter a 10-inch Bundt pan well, then dust it with 3 tablespoons cocoa powder, knocking out the excess.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat the coffee, coffee liqueur and butter and the cup of cocoa powder in a medium saucepan over moderate heat, whisking until the butter is melted and all the ingredients are combined. Remove mixture from heat, then add white and brown sugars and whisk until dissolved, about 1 minute. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and cool for about 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the chocolate mixture cools, whisk together the flour, baking soda and salt in a bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs with almond or vanilla extract, then stir into the cooled chocolate mixture until it's combined well. Fold in the flour mixture until all of the ingredients are combined. (It will take some elbow grease to combine the ingredients; the batter will be mostly smooth, but don't be alarmed if there are a few small lumps.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour the batter into the Bundt pan and bake it until a toothpick or skewer inserted in the center comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes. Watch the cake closely. It goes quickly from moist to overbaked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cool the cake completely in the pan for an hour. Loosen the cake from the pan using the tip of a small knife, then invert the rack over the pan and turn the cake out onto the rack. Cool the cake on the rack for another hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dust the cake with powdered sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"salad\">\u003c/a>Macerated Oranges, Medjool Dates And Grapes with Slivered Almonds\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Though I trembled at the thought of tinkering with a recipe by the iconic Italian cookbook writer Marcella Hazan, tinker I did. Her recipe for \u003c/em>\u003cem>Macerated Oranges and Grapes with Toasted Slivered Almonds from \u003c/em>The Classic Italian Cookbook\u003cem>, called for orange liqueur but I liked the lighter taste imparted by white wine. I also added \u003c/em>\u003cem>dates and nuts for color and texture.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79043\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorfruitsalad-2f3934598e1a4f34da197628ebed4cbec2f80d0c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorfruitsalad-2f3934598e1a4f34da197628ebed4cbec2f80d0c-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Macerated Oranges, Medjool Dates And Grapes with Slivered Almonds. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79043\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Macerated Oranges, Medjool Dates And Grapes with Slivered Almonds. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 navel oranges, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 small bunch of grapes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 Medjool dates, cut in half vertically, pitted then cut into quarters\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grated peel of 1 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 1/2 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup white wine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon vanilla\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons slivered almonds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a sharp knife, cut off the ends of the oranges and peel them. Remove as much of the pith as possible, being careful not to cut into the flesh of the orange. Cut the orange in half, then into quarters. Cut the quarters into 1/2-inch slices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the oranges, grapes and dates into a bowl. Using a zester or the finest teeth on a box grater, grate the lemon peel into the bowl. Add the lemon juice. Add the wine and the vanilla. Toss the fruit salad gently, cover it and place it in the refrigerator for at least an hour. When you're ready to serve the fruit, toss it again to distribute the juices and sprinkle the salad with the slivered almonds. The salad keeps in the refrigerator for up to a day.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"bacon\">\u003c/a>Beer-Candied Bacon With Thyme\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>If you love candy and you love bacon, you'll love this bacon candy, which I adapted from a recipe from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thekitchn.com/\">theKitchn\u003c/a> via the food blog \u003ca href=\"http://tideandthyme.com/\">Tide and Thyme\u003c/a>. The addition of thyme cuts the sweetness of the bacon and imparts a bit of adult polish. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79044\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorbacon-c29dd465a5893165e7a99e8c9fac67029840839a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorbacon-c29dd465a5893165e7a99e8c9fac67029840839a-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Beer-Candied Bacon With Thyme. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79044\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beer-Candied Bacon With Thyme. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup dark beer\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch cayenne\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound thick cut, high-quality bacon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Combine the brown sugar, beer, mustard and cayenne in a small bowl, whisking well to form a thin syrup. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Place a wire cooling rack on top of the baking sheet. Place the pieces of bacon on top of the rack, with enough space between them so they don't overlap. Brush one side of each bacon strip with the beer syrup. Place the sheet in the oven and cook for 8 to10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the bacon from the oven, turn over the strips of bacon and brush them with the beer syrup. Return the bacon to the oven and cook it for another 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the bacon from the oven and sprinkle it with thyme. Repeat the process once or twice more, watching to make sure the bacon doesn't burn, until it's crispy and browned and you've used all of the glaze.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the bacon to a wire rack to cool for at least 1 hour before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"milkshake\">\u003c/a>Chocolate Mint Milkshake\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>In this recipe, which is adapted from a drink called \"The Captain Reid's Milkshake\" in Warren Bobrow's \u003c/em>Apothecary Cocktails: Restorative Drinks from Yesterday and Today\u003cem>, mint liqueur and chocolate ice cream combine into a rich milkshake. This shake is thinner than the typical milkshake; if you prefer thicker shakes, reduce the amount of milk and adjust the mint liqueur to your taste. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79045\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 768px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquormilkshake_custom-d179474970e7102b8e0ccf49f7f6e41cbe3cc4f2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquormilkshake_custom-d179474970e7102b8e0ccf49f7f6e41cbe3cc4f2-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Mint Milkshake. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79045\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate Mint Milkshake. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 ounces root beer, preferably craft-style\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 ounce mint liqueur\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 scoops rich, deep chocolate gelato or ice cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon colored sprinkles for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of fleur du sel\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a blender, blend all of the ingredients except the sprinkles and salt until smooth. Pour into glasses and top each serving with sprinkles and fleur du sel. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>About the Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Laura B. Weiss' work has appeared in numerous national publications, including \u003cem>The New York Times,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/Kitchen/History-New-England-Indian-Pudding\">Saveur\u003c/a>,\u003cem> Travel + Leisure, \u003c/em>and on the Food Network website. She's a contributor to \u003ca href=\"http://designwire.interiordesign.net/events/15485/young-chinese-designers-make-western-debut\">Interior Design\u003c/a>\u003cem>'s\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>blog\u003cem> \u003c/em>and\u003cem> \u003c/em>was an editor for the \u003cem>Zagat Long Island Restaurant Guide\u003c/em> \u003cem>2009-2011. \u003c/em>Laura is the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ice-Cream-Global-History-Reaktion/dp/1861897928\">Ice Cream: A Global History\u003c/a>. Follow Laura on Twitter, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Foodandthings\" target=\"_blank\">@foodandthings\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The typical green-themed cookie or cupcake is no match for these alcohol-infused treats. Celebrate with Kahlua cake, a mint-liqueur milkshake, wine-soaked fruit salad or beer-glazed bacon candy.",
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"description": "The typical green-themed cookie or cupcake is no match for these alcohol-infused treats. Celebrate with Kahlua cake, a mint-liqueur milkshake, wine-soaked fruit salad or beer-glazed bacon candy.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Post by Laura B. Weiss, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/03/12/289084832/spirited-sweets-for-st-patricks-or-any-day\" target=\"_blank\">Kitchen Window for NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/12/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#cake\">Chocolate Kahlua Bundt Cake\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#salad\">Macerated Oranges, Medjool Dates And Grapes with Slivered Almonds\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#bacon\">Beer-Candied Bacon With Thyme\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#milkshake\">Chocolate Mint Milkshake\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Saint Patrick's Day, often the first order of business is to raise a glass to the Irish with a frosty mug of green beer. You might also savor a slice of Irish soda bread, rich with raisins and caraway seeds, or tuck into a hearty dish of corned beef and cabbage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when March 17 rolls around, don't neglect the desserts. You could certainly stick to traditional offerings like shamrock-shaped cookies and emerald-tinged cupcakes. But I tire quickly of all that blazing green. I prefer to punctuate a festive meal with alcohol-infused sweets, from a decadent chocolate Bundt cake to a creamy mint milkshake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's also a bowl of oranges, grapes and dates macerated in white wine, and baked bacon \"candy\" — crisp and mahogany-hued with a glaze of beer, brown sugar, mustard and thyme.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly any sweet creation you can think of could get a boost from a splash of spirits. In baked goods, spirits impart not only flavor but also moisture that creates a sumptuous, tender crumb. Think brownies and cakes soused with beer, or cupcakes laced with gin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alcohol provides an adult upgrade to childhood ice cream favorites such as popsicles, sundaes and floats. Add some zing to a frozen blueberry pop with an injection of vodka, jazz up a hot fudge sundae with a splash of scotch, and pep up the retro root beer float with a dash of rum or vodka.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>White and red wines marry beautifully with just about any fruit, from berries to bananas. On a cold wintry night, I'll happily sit down to a bowl of sliced pears poached in butter, honey, rum and a touch of cinnamon. Dare to be extravagant and top this dish off with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Desserts made with alcohol date back to antiquity. In the ancient Roman cookbook \u003ca href=\"http://www.gutenberg.org/files/29728/29728-h/29728-h.htm\">\u003cem>Apicius\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \"sweet wine was paired with fruits as a syrup and used to flavor cakes,\" says Lynn Oliver, editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodtimeline.org/\">The Food Timeline\u003c/a>. During medieval times, liquor acted as a preservative in baked goods such as English fruitcake. In the U.S., the colonists used alcohol liberally when creating sweet dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Brandy is all over the first American cookbook by Amelia Simmons,\" writes Michael Krondl, author of \u003cem>Sweet Invention\u003c/em>: \u003cem>A History of Dessert,\u003c/em> in an email. Then during Prohibition, liquored-up desserts largely fell out of favor. Recently, though, desserts made with spirits have experienced a revival, perhaps mirroring the recent cocktails renaissance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Europeans have long embraced the idea of alcohol as an essential dessert ingredient. In Italy, there's \u003ca href=\"http://tavolatalk.com/2013/panbriacone-italys-drunken-sweet-bread/#!\">the dome-shaped Italian sweet bread, panettone\u003c/a>, injected with sweet wine or rum. The French have small rum-soaked yeast cakes, \u003cem>baba au rhum,\u003c/em> which Krondl says were probably introduced to France by a Polish king. Then there's the decadent German \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/kitchen/saveur-100-black-forest-cake\">Black Forest cake\u003c/a>, constructed from layers of chocolate sponge cake, whipped cream, sour cherries and kirsch (cherry brandy).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, does alcohol burn off when you cook or bake it? Not completely. But a cake likely retains more spirits than, say, a sauce does.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would think that whatever alcohol is lost in baking is considerably less than what is lost when you boil or flame alcohol in cooking,\" writes Dorrie Greenspan, the author of \u003cem>Baking: From My Home to Yours\u003c/em>, in an email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you want the flavor of spirits but not the buzz, try extracts, which contain little or no alcohol. For recipes calling for light rum, for example, the flavorings company McCormick & Co. \u003ca href=\"http://www.mccormick.com/Spices-and-Flavors/Extracts-and-Food-Colors/Extracts/Imitation-Rum-Extract\">recommends substituting\u003c/a> 1/2 teaspoon of imitation rum per tablespoon of spirit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Buzzed or not, these sweets are my standbys for St. Patrick's Day or any occasion that calls for a dramatic dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cake\">\u003c/a>Chocolate Kahlua Bundt Cake\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This cake, adapted from a 2005 \u003c/em>Gourmet\u003cem> recipe for Chocolate Whiskey Bundt Cake, is rich and delicious, and the coffee liqueur heightens the intensity of the chocolate. This cake improves in flavor if it's made at least a day ahead, and it can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Bring the cake to room temperature before serving.\u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79042\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorcake-ebe1ae4329d4446a4ca0327b79be2aaef47daa5d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorcake-ebe1ae4329d4446a4ca0327b79be2aaef47daa5d-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Kahlua Bundt Cake. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79042\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate Kahlua Bundt Cake. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 10 to 12 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (not Dutch-process) plus 3 tablespoons for dusting the pan\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 3/4 cups brewed espresso or strong coffee\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup coffee-flavored liqueur, such as Kahlua\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 sticks unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup white sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup dark brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon almond extract or vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place oven rack in the middle position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Butter a 10-inch Bundt pan well, then dust it with 3 tablespoons cocoa powder, knocking out the excess.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat the coffee, coffee liqueur and butter and the cup of cocoa powder in a medium saucepan over moderate heat, whisking until the butter is melted and all the ingredients are combined. Remove mixture from heat, then add white and brown sugars and whisk until dissolved, about 1 minute. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and cool for about 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the chocolate mixture cools, whisk together the flour, baking soda and salt in a bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs with almond or vanilla extract, then stir into the cooled chocolate mixture until it's combined well. Fold in the flour mixture until all of the ingredients are combined. (It will take some elbow grease to combine the ingredients; the batter will be mostly smooth, but don't be alarmed if there are a few small lumps.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour the batter into the Bundt pan and bake it until a toothpick or skewer inserted in the center comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes. Watch the cake closely. It goes quickly from moist to overbaked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cool the cake completely in the pan for an hour. Loosen the cake from the pan using the tip of a small knife, then invert the rack over the pan and turn the cake out onto the rack. Cool the cake on the rack for another hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dust the cake with powdered sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"salad\">\u003c/a>Macerated Oranges, Medjool Dates And Grapes with Slivered Almonds\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Though I trembled at the thought of tinkering with a recipe by the iconic Italian cookbook writer Marcella Hazan, tinker I did. Her recipe for \u003c/em>\u003cem>Macerated Oranges and Grapes with Toasted Slivered Almonds from \u003c/em>The Classic Italian Cookbook\u003cem>, called for orange liqueur but I liked the lighter taste imparted by white wine. I also added \u003c/em>\u003cem>dates and nuts for color and texture.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79043\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorfruitsalad-2f3934598e1a4f34da197628ebed4cbec2f80d0c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorfruitsalad-2f3934598e1a4f34da197628ebed4cbec2f80d0c-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Macerated Oranges, Medjool Dates And Grapes with Slivered Almonds. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79043\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Macerated Oranges, Medjool Dates And Grapes with Slivered Almonds. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 navel oranges, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 small bunch of grapes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 Medjool dates, cut in half vertically, pitted then cut into quarters\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grated peel of 1 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 1/2 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup white wine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon vanilla\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons slivered almonds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a sharp knife, cut off the ends of the oranges and peel them. Remove as much of the pith as possible, being careful not to cut into the flesh of the orange. Cut the orange in half, then into quarters. Cut the quarters into 1/2-inch slices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the oranges, grapes and dates into a bowl. Using a zester or the finest teeth on a box grater, grate the lemon peel into the bowl. Add the lemon juice. Add the wine and the vanilla. Toss the fruit salad gently, cover it and place it in the refrigerator for at least an hour. When you're ready to serve the fruit, toss it again to distribute the juices and sprinkle the salad with the slivered almonds. The salad keeps in the refrigerator for up to a day.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"bacon\">\u003c/a>Beer-Candied Bacon With Thyme\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>If you love candy and you love bacon, you'll love this bacon candy, which I adapted from a recipe from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thekitchn.com/\">theKitchn\u003c/a> via the food blog \u003ca href=\"http://tideandthyme.com/\">Tide and Thyme\u003c/a>. The addition of thyme cuts the sweetness of the bacon and imparts a bit of adult polish. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79044\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorbacon-c29dd465a5893165e7a99e8c9fac67029840839a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorbacon-c29dd465a5893165e7a99e8c9fac67029840839a-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Beer-Candied Bacon With Thyme. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79044\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beer-Candied Bacon With Thyme. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup dark beer\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch cayenne\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound thick cut, high-quality bacon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Combine the brown sugar, beer, mustard and cayenne in a small bowl, whisking well to form a thin syrup. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Place a wire cooling rack on top of the baking sheet. Place the pieces of bacon on top of the rack, with enough space between them so they don't overlap. Brush one side of each bacon strip with the beer syrup. Place the sheet in the oven and cook for 8 to10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the bacon from the oven, turn over the strips of bacon and brush them with the beer syrup. Return the bacon to the oven and cook it for another 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the bacon from the oven and sprinkle it with thyme. Repeat the process once or twice more, watching to make sure the bacon doesn't burn, until it's crispy and browned and you've used all of the glaze.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the bacon to a wire rack to cool for at least 1 hour before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"milkshake\">\u003c/a>Chocolate Mint Milkshake\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>In this recipe, which is adapted from a drink called \"The Captain Reid's Milkshake\" in Warren Bobrow's \u003c/em>Apothecary Cocktails: Restorative Drinks from Yesterday and Today\u003cem>, mint liqueur and chocolate ice cream combine into a rich milkshake. This shake is thinner than the typical milkshake; if you prefer thicker shakes, reduce the amount of milk and adjust the mint liqueur to your taste. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79045\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 768px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquormilkshake_custom-d179474970e7102b8e0ccf49f7f6e41cbe3cc4f2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquormilkshake_custom-d179474970e7102b8e0ccf49f7f6e41cbe3cc4f2-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Mint Milkshake. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79045\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate Mint Milkshake. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 ounces root beer, preferably craft-style\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 ounce mint liqueur\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 scoops rich, deep chocolate gelato or ice cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon colored sprinkles for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of fleur du sel\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a blender, blend all of the ingredients except the sprinkles and salt until smooth. Pour into glasses and top each serving with sprinkles and fleur du sel. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>About the Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Laura B. Weiss' work has appeared in numerous national publications, including \u003cem>The New York Times,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/Kitchen/History-New-England-Indian-Pudding\">Saveur\u003c/a>,\u003cem> Travel + Leisure, \u003c/em>and on the Food Network website. She's a contributor to \u003ca href=\"http://designwire.interiordesign.net/events/15485/young-chinese-designers-make-western-debut\">Interior Design\u003c/a>\u003cem>'s\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>blog\u003cem> \u003c/em>and\u003cem> \u003c/em>was an editor for the \u003cem>Zagat Long Island Restaurant Guide\u003c/em> \u003cem>2009-2011. \u003c/em>Laura is the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ice-Cream-Global-History-Reaktion/dp/1861897928\">Ice Cream: A Global History\u003c/a>. Follow Laura on Twitter, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Foodandthings\" target=\"_blank\">@foodandthings\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "On a Bender: Bender's Rye Launches the New 'It' Whiskey",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78937\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Benders_Detail_Front.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Benders_Detail_Front.jpg\" alt=\"The new bottle designed by Carl Bender. Photo: Courtesy of Bender's Rye\" width=\"1280\" height=\"854\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78937\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The new bottle designed by Carl Bender. Photo: Courtesy of Bender's Rye\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Rye is making a comeback. The brown spirit, once seen as fit only for the frontier saloon, is taking its place among the small-batch bourbons and single-malt whiskeys behind the bars at hip watering holes across the country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What makes rye different than other whiskeys? Quite simply, the grain: just as bourbon must be made from at least 51% corn, so rye must be made from at least 51% rye, which adds its own distinctive taste. In a \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2014/02/02/magazine/theres-a-reason-that-rye-is-having-a-moment.html\"> recent column\u003c/a> for the \u003cem>New York Times,\u003c/em> bartender-writer Rosie Schaap claimed rye's \"dryness and earthiness...spice and faint sourness\" was quite irresistible to her, as was its \"wonderful chewiness.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So now's your chance to get bragging rights for the next cool thing. Even better, small-batch ryes can still be had for a reasonable price, especially compared to cult-status bourbons like \u003ca href=\"http://oldripvanwinkle.com/\">Pappy Van Winkle\u003c/a>. The latest addition to the rapidly-expanding rye pantheon is \u003ca href=\"http://bendersrye.com/\">Bender's Rye\u003c/a> out of San Francisco. Just launched in November 2013, this complex, 96-proof spirit is made to stand up and be counted in a cocktail, whether it's paired with sweet vermouth in a classic Manhattan or laced with absinthe and a dash of bitters in a Sazerac. Notes of dried apricot, toffee, and orange show up in a sip of remarkable smoothness for the proof. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rye is produced by the two-man team of Christopher Cohen and Carl Bender. Bender, a graphic designer and artist, is responsible for the brand's whimsical, approachable labeling. The stylized face on the bottle -- complete with watchcap, beard, and pipe -- is based on Bender. The liquor-world savvy comes from the Saskatchewan-born Cohen, who has worked in marketing for numerous beverage companies, including both St. Germain (of elderflower-liqueur fame) and Fever-tree, makers of high-end mixers like tonic water and ginger ale. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78939\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 768px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/IMG_0887.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/IMG_0887-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Carl Bender and Christopher Cohen. Photo: Courtesy of Bender's Rye\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78939\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Carl Bender and Christopher Cohen. Photo: Nancy Rothstein\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The whiskey starts with Canadian-grown grains that are distilled, aged, and custom-blended to order by a distillery in Alberta. Cohen and Bender spent months working on the blend, eventually tasting 52 different combinations before settling on the current Bender's Rye blend. The barrels are sent from the Canadian distillery to a local distillery that also makes such San Francisco-themed spirits as \u003ca href=\"http://www.raffdistillerie.com/absinthe.html\">Emperor Norton Absinthe\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.raffdistillerie.com/gin.html\">Bummer and Lazarus Gin\u003c/a> (named after Norton's dogs). There, it's blended with Hetch Hetchy's finest snowmelt (that's SF tap water to you) and bottled--about 3248 bottles for this batch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The next batch, we're actually buying some barrels at various char and toast levels, and we're going to experiment. So the next batch is going to be slightly different--we're going to age some of it, again, anywhere from three to six months,\" said Cohen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's really all about their palates, they agree. \"We had a joke in the beginning that if this doesn't work out, we'd have a lifetime supply of something we liked,\" said Cohen. Sitting at Berkeley's Revival Bar and Kitchen, they were tasting what ended up being their final blend. \"It was a little bit edgy,\" remembered Cohen, of their 85% rye/15% corn mix. \"The corn adds a certain kind of funky energy; you don't want to add too much or it can overpower the rye.\" They had a moment of wondering if they should follow the crowd, and make a rye that tasted more like the popular ryes already on the market. But only a moment; instead, they stuck with their own blend, trusting that customers, once they'd tasted it, would come back for something unique. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78938\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 683px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Benders_OnBoard.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Benders_OnBoard-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Bender's Rye. Photo: Courtesy of Bender's Rye\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78938\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bender's Rye. Photo: Courtesy of Bender's Rye\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Already, Bender's has been catching on with local bartenders. It's on the bar at La Folie, Park Tavern, Dogpatch Saloon, Credo, 83 Proof, Perry's, Cigar Bar and Grill in San Francisco, and in the East Bay, at Pican, the Hotsy Totsy Club, and Ramen Shop. They've found it to be particularly popular with women, but San Francisco's overall creative spirit and willingness to get in on the next new thing has made the city a friendly place to find homes for those 3000+ bottles. Eventually, they hope to devote themselves full-time to the project; so far, they both work other jobs and take care of Bender's in their free time. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for cocktails, rye shows off best in straightforward, spirit-dominated drinks that let its raspy, leather-and-toffee notes come to the fore. The Brain Duster, below, is a high-octane collision between two classic rye cocktails, the Manhattan and the Sazerac. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Brain Duster\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0988773104/kqedorg-20\">The Art of Vintage Cocktails\u003c/a>, by Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nWith its autumn-leaf color and rye-and-vermouth base, this 1895 cocktail from the original Waldorf-Astoria hotel in New York City, could easily pass for a Manhattan. But add an ounce of absinthe and the Brain Duster is revealed as an entirely different--and much more lethal--drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 oz rye whiskey\u003cbr>\n1 oz absinthe\u003cbr>\n1 oz sweet vermouth\u003cbr>\nDash of bitters\u003cbr>\nTwist of lemon peel, for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine rye, absinthe, vermouth, and bitters in a mixing glass with ice. Stir well. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with lemon twist. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78937\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1280px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Benders_Detail_Front.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Benders_Detail_Front.jpg\" alt=\"The new bottle designed by Carl Bender. Photo: Courtesy of Bender's Rye\" width=\"1280\" height=\"854\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78937\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The new bottle designed by Carl Bender. Photo: Courtesy of Bender's Rye\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Rye is making a comeback. The brown spirit, once seen as fit only for the frontier saloon, is taking its place among the small-batch bourbons and single-malt whiskeys behind the bars at hip watering holes across the country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What makes rye different than other whiskeys? Quite simply, the grain: just as bourbon must be made from at least 51% corn, so rye must be made from at least 51% rye, which adds its own distinctive taste. In a \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2014/02/02/magazine/theres-a-reason-that-rye-is-having-a-moment.html\"> recent column\u003c/a> for the \u003cem>New York Times,\u003c/em> bartender-writer Rosie Schaap claimed rye's \"dryness and earthiness...spice and faint sourness\" was quite irresistible to her, as was its \"wonderful chewiness.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So now's your chance to get bragging rights for the next cool thing. Even better, small-batch ryes can still be had for a reasonable price, especially compared to cult-status bourbons like \u003ca href=\"http://oldripvanwinkle.com/\">Pappy Van Winkle\u003c/a>. The latest addition to the rapidly-expanding rye pantheon is \u003ca href=\"http://bendersrye.com/\">Bender's Rye\u003c/a> out of San Francisco. Just launched in November 2013, this complex, 96-proof spirit is made to stand up and be counted in a cocktail, whether it's paired with sweet vermouth in a classic Manhattan or laced with absinthe and a dash of bitters in a Sazerac. Notes of dried apricot, toffee, and orange show up in a sip of remarkable smoothness for the proof. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rye is produced by the two-man team of Christopher Cohen and Carl Bender. Bender, a graphic designer and artist, is responsible for the brand's whimsical, approachable labeling. The stylized face on the bottle -- complete with watchcap, beard, and pipe -- is based on Bender. The liquor-world savvy comes from the Saskatchewan-born Cohen, who has worked in marketing for numerous beverage companies, including both St. Germain (of elderflower-liqueur fame) and Fever-tree, makers of high-end mixers like tonic water and ginger ale. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78939\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 768px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/IMG_0887.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/IMG_0887-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Carl Bender and Christopher Cohen. Photo: Courtesy of Bender's Rye\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78939\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Carl Bender and Christopher Cohen. Photo: Nancy Rothstein\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The whiskey starts with Canadian-grown grains that are distilled, aged, and custom-blended to order by a distillery in Alberta. Cohen and Bender spent months working on the blend, eventually tasting 52 different combinations before settling on the current Bender's Rye blend. The barrels are sent from the Canadian distillery to a local distillery that also makes such San Francisco-themed spirits as \u003ca href=\"http://www.raffdistillerie.com/absinthe.html\">Emperor Norton Absinthe\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.raffdistillerie.com/gin.html\">Bummer and Lazarus Gin\u003c/a> (named after Norton's dogs). There, it's blended with Hetch Hetchy's finest snowmelt (that's SF tap water to you) and bottled--about 3248 bottles for this batch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The next batch, we're actually buying some barrels at various char and toast levels, and we're going to experiment. So the next batch is going to be slightly different--we're going to age some of it, again, anywhere from three to six months,\" said Cohen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's really all about their palates, they agree. \"We had a joke in the beginning that if this doesn't work out, we'd have a lifetime supply of something we liked,\" said Cohen. Sitting at Berkeley's Revival Bar and Kitchen, they were tasting what ended up being their final blend. \"It was a little bit edgy,\" remembered Cohen, of their 85% rye/15% corn mix. \"The corn adds a certain kind of funky energy; you don't want to add too much or it can overpower the rye.\" They had a moment of wondering if they should follow the crowd, and make a rye that tasted more like the popular ryes already on the market. But only a moment; instead, they stuck with their own blend, trusting that customers, once they'd tasted it, would come back for something unique. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78938\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 683px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Benders_OnBoard.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/Benders_OnBoard-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Bender's Rye. Photo: Courtesy of Bender's Rye\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78938\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bender's Rye. Photo: Courtesy of Bender's Rye\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Already, Bender's has been catching on with local bartenders. It's on the bar at La Folie, Park Tavern, Dogpatch Saloon, Credo, 83 Proof, Perry's, Cigar Bar and Grill in San Francisco, and in the East Bay, at Pican, the Hotsy Totsy Club, and Ramen Shop. They've found it to be particularly popular with women, but San Francisco's overall creative spirit and willingness to get in on the next new thing has made the city a friendly place to find homes for those 3000+ bottles. Eventually, they hope to devote themselves full-time to the project; so far, they both work other jobs and take care of Bender's in their free time. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for cocktails, rye shows off best in straightforward, spirit-dominated drinks that let its raspy, leather-and-toffee notes come to the fore. The Brain Duster, below, is a high-octane collision between two classic rye cocktails, the Manhattan and the Sazerac. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Brain Duster\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0988773104/kqedorg-20\">The Art of Vintage Cocktails\u003c/a>, by Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nWith its autumn-leaf color and rye-and-vermouth base, this 1895 cocktail from the original Waldorf-Astoria hotel in New York City, could easily pass for a Manhattan. But add an ounce of absinthe and the Brain Duster is revealed as an entirely different--and much more lethal--drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 oz rye whiskey\u003cbr>\n1 oz absinthe\u003cbr>\n1 oz sweet vermouth\u003cbr>\nDash of bitters\u003cbr>\nTwist of lemon peel, for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine rye, absinthe, vermouth, and bitters in a mixing glass with ice. Stir well. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with lemon twist. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Salt Cod: The Prosciutto of the Sea?",
"title": "Salt Cod: The Prosciutto of the Sea?",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78888\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1523px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodmain_custom-30c6a2f2842b0a7f6a6c3074a2090e9a540b029c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodmain_custom-30c6a2f2842b0a7f6a6c3074a2090e9a540b029c.jpg\" alt=\"The best quality salt cod typically is sold as nearly white whole fillets, 2 or more inches thick in the thickest parts, often packed in coarse salt in wooden boxes. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"1523\" height=\"1033\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78888\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The best quality salt cod typically is sold as nearly white whole fillets, 2 or more inches thick in the thickest parts, often packed in coarse salt in wooden boxes. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Tom Gilbert, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/03/05/285784554/salt-cod-the-prosciutto-of-the-sea\" target=\"_blank\">The Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/5/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#cakes\">New England Salt Cod Cakes\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#napoletana\">Baccala' Alla Napoletana\u003c/a> (Salt Cod With Potatoes In Tomato Sauce), \u003ca href=\"#mexicana\">Bacalao A La Mexicana\u003c/a> (Salt Cod With Onions In Tomatillo Sauce) and \u003ca href=\"#pickled\">Nina's Cruzan Pickled Salt Fish\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the God of the Old Testament, salt cod goes by many names. The French call it \u003cem>morue\u003c/em>, the Italians \u003cem>baccala'\u003c/em> and the Portuguese \u003cem>bacalhau\u003c/em>. Of course, the fish is the same — Atlantic cod — and the process is the same — drying and salting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt cod is eaten in nearly every country that comes into contact with the Atlantic Ocean. For centuries, this meaty, plentiful fish, whose low fat content makes it uniquely amenable to long-term preservation, provided mankind with a protein bonanza. Long before airplanes, motor-powered ships or refrigeration, cod could be caught in the north Atlantic and eaten months later in Europe, Africa or Latin America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt cod is also very delicious — even more delicious, in the opinion of many, than fresh cod. Still, I have food-savvy friends who don't get it. \"Why eat salt cod,\" they ask, \"when thanks to refrigeration we can always find fresh cod?\" \"Why eat prosciutto,\" I answer, \"when you could have fresh ham?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is not a gratuitous comparison. As Harold McGee writes in his encyclopedic work of food science, \u003cem>On Food and Cooking\u003c/em>:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>The best of these [salted fish] are the piscatory equivalent of salt-cured hams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In both, salt buys time for transformation: it preserves them long and gently enough for enzymes of both fish and harmless salt-tolerant bacteria to break down flavorless proteins and fats into savory fragments, which then react further to create flavors of great complexity.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Amen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This flavor alchemy explains why salt cod continues to be a cherished comfort food, even as dwindling catches have transformed it from a cheap staple into a pricey delicacy. Expensive comfort food may be a paradox, but thanks to overfishing or ecological change or whatever else is on the list of possible causes for the recent collapse of the Atlantic cod fishery, it is a fact of life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another salt cod paradox is that devotion to this homey and once humble food inevitably leads to faraway places and exotic cuisines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up in New England, we ate salt cod exclusively in the form of fish cakes. My mother made them for dinner, although traditionally they served as part of a working-class breakfast. I still make them, although sometimes, out of thrift, I substitute leftover cooked fish (bluefish and mackerel are good) or smoked fish for some or all of the salt cod.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During a college semester in Los Angeles I was introduced to \u003cem>chiles rellenos \u003c/em>and \u003cem>enchiladas\u003c/em>, but also found a life-changing Mexican salt cod casserole that Aztec-ed up the Iberian classic \u003cem>Bacalao a la Vizcaina\u003c/em> with tomatillos and dried chilies. My mother-in-law taught me a spicy and vinegary salt cod dish from her Virgin Islands childhood called pickled salt fish (pronounced more like \"sow fish\").\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most Americans associate salt cod with Italians, but to true devotees, southern Europe from Lisbon to Istanbul is a magical mystery tour, in which each nation, region and city cooks the dish in its own way. The Portuguese are in a class by themselves as salt cod lovers. Great fishermen, they not only introduced salt cod to most of Europe, but also proudly claim to have more than a thousand distinct recipes for \u003cem>bacalhau\u003c/em> — and not a single recipe for fresh cod.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cakes\">\u003c/a>New England Salt Cod Cakes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These are wonderful when made entirely with salt cod, but out of thrift, or sometimes just for the sake of variety, you can substitute almost any white-fleshed leftover cooked fish, or even smoked fish, for some or all of the salt cod.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78889\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodcakes-888a5fc905097e2e712d2afa0630d5df8b542a4a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodcakes-888a5fc905097e2e712d2afa0630d5df8b542a4a.jpg\" alt=\"New England Salt Cod Cakes. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1087\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78889\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">New England Salt Cod Cakes. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound desalted salt cod\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 or 2 bay leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 medium-size starchy potatoes, boiled and mashed or riced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium Spanish onion, grated\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 eggs, lightly beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons finely chopped parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 generous pinch ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 small pinch grated nutmeg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup unseasoned breadcrumbs, or more as needed to bind the mixture\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dredging, 2 cups breadcrumbs, panko or flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 3 tablespoons of bacon fat or butter, or more as needed for frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 lemon, cut into wedges, or 1/2 cup tartar or hot sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Poach the desalted cod and bay leaf for 2 to 3 minutes in simmering water. Drain and flake cod; discard the bay leaf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, mix potatoes, onion, eggs, parsley, black pepper, nutmeg and breadcrumbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add flaked cod to bowl; mix all ingredients roughly by hand. The consistency should be moist but not so moist that you cannot form cakes about the size of a small hamburger that barely hold together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Form cakes and place them on a wax paper-lined cookie sheet. Cover with wax paper, then cover with tin foil and refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours in advance. You can cook them right away, but letting them rest in the refrigerator will help them hold together during frying.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take cakes out of refrigerator 15 minutes before cooking. Heat bacon fat or butter in a pan or cast iron skillet over medium heat until it sizzles when you add a small piece of bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dredge the fish cakes lightly in flour, unseasoned breadcrumbs or panko and fry for about 5 minutes on each side, or until they are heated through and the outsides are crispy and light to medium brown. Salt to taste and serve with lemon wedges, tartar sauce or hot sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"napoletana\">\u003c/a>Baccala' Alla Napoletana (Salt Cod With Potatoes In Tomato Sauce)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is real Italian soul food — hearty and unrefined — and there are varieties on this recipe to be found all over Italy. Often, the potatoes are omitted and the dish is served over pasta. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78890\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodnapoletana-33607207b7b9120eca4fdec7296a72da9eade27d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodnapoletana-33607207b7b9120eca4fdec7296a72da9eade27d.jpg\" alt=\"Baccala' Alla Napoletana (Salt Cod With Potatoes In Tomato Sauce). Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78890\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Baccala' Alla Napoletana (Salt Cod With Potatoes In Tomato Sauce). Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 to 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 medium starchy potatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup extra virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup black olives, pitted and roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large Spanish onion, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flour for dredging\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 pounds thick, desalted salt cod cut into large pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups canned San Marzano tomatoes, with juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon dried or 2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup white wine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 1 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons salted capers, soaked, drained and roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup finely chopped parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peel the potatoes and boil them in salted water until slightly undercooked. Drain and slice into 1/4-inch thick slices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over low heat, sauté the olives and onion in a tablespoon or 2 of olive oil until the onions soften (about 5 minutes). Remove and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raise heat to medium. Add the remaining olive oil to the pan. Dredge cod lightly in flour and fry on both sides until brown. Remove cod and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add to the skillet the tomatoes, oregano, wine, lemon juice, capers and half of the parsley. Cook until sauce begins to thicken (10 to 15 minutes).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the cod and potato slices back to the skillet, turning them in the sauce. Cover with the onion and olive mixture. Add a few generous grinds of black pepper. Turn heat to very low and simmer slowly for 45 to 60 minutes, adding water in small amounts if the dish begins to dry out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sprinkle with the remaining parsley before serving; drizzle with more olive oil or add another squeeze of lemon juice if you like. Taste and correct for salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"mexicana\">\u003c/a>Bacalao A La Mexicana (Salt Cod With Onions In Tomatillo Sauce)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Because it uses very thick pieces of salt cod, this dish can be extremely salty. I used to try to moderate the saltiness by soaking the salt cod for an extra few days, but over the years I have grown to enjoy it with an aggressive salty bite. Feel free to turn up the heat as well by adding hot peppers or hot pepper sauce to the \u003c/em>salsa verde\u003cem>. This recipe is adapted from \u003c/em>Uncommon Fruits and Vegetables: A Commonsense Guide\u003cem> by Elizabeth Schneider (William Morrow Cookbooks, 2010).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78891\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1447px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodmexicana-716e72382ef8c7cda0adafb8a88081b65d9fe9c9.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodmexicana-716e72382ef8c7cda0adafb8a88081b65d9fe9c9.jpg\" alt=\"Bacalao A La Mexicana (Salt Cod With Onions In Tomatillo Sauce). Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"1447\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78891\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bacalao A La Mexicana (Salt Cod With Onions In Tomatillo Sauce). Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 to 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salsa Verde (Tomatillo Sauce)\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound fresh tomatillos\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 or 3 ancho or other dried Mexican chilies (not chipotles)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 garlic cloves, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon tomato paste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch thoroughly rinsed cilantro roots and stems, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch cilantro leaves, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 lime, juiced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bacalao\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups \u003cem>salsa verde\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil or more as needed for sautéing\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large Spanish onions, sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flour for dredging\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound desalted salt cod, cut into pieces approximately 4-inches square\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups cooked rice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For salsa verde, peel and discard papery covering from tomatillos. Rinse tomatillos well under running warm water to clean and remove sticky coating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Boil 1 cup of water in a pot or saucepan. Clean dried chilies, discarding seeds and stems, and add them to hot water. Remove from heat and let stand for 15 to 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Puncture the tomatillos once or twice with a sharp fork and add to pot, along with garlic, tomato paste and chopped cilantro roots and stems. Cover and cook over low heat until tomatillos can be easily crushed. Allow sauce to cool. Add cilantro leaves and lime juice. Puree all ingredients in a blender or food processor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For bacalao, heat oil in a pan or skillet over low heat. Add onions and sauté slowly, stirring frequently, until onions are translucent and turning a light golden color. Remove onions to a casserole or baking dish, spreading them to cover the bottom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dredge cod lightly in flour. Turn heat under skillet to medium, and brown cod thoroughly on both sides in the onion-flavored oil. Remove cod and arrange in casserole on top of cooked onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reheat tomatillo sauce in skillet, scraping up remaining bits of flour, oil and juices. Pour sauce into casserole over cod and onions. Bake uncovered in 375-degree oven for 30 minutes. Taste and correct for salt. Serve over rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pickled\">\u003c/a>Nina's Cruzan Pickled Salt Fish\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This dish must cure for a week before eating; after that, it will keep for a month or so in the refrigerator. My mother-in-law, Nina, used to leave it on the kitchen counter, which is fine if ambient temperatures stay under 65 degrees or so.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78899\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodpickled-9485899dce864fe9a9e6560d030bb7cf16f1bfdb-s4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodpickled-9485899dce864fe9a9e6560d030bb7cf16f1bfdb-s4.jpg\" alt=\"Nina's Cruzan Pickled Salt Fish. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"467\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78899\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nina's Cruzan Pickled Salt Fish. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>1 pound desalted salt cod\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 bay leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium red onion, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 red bell pepper, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 jalapeno, habanero or other hot peppers with seeds and interior ribs removed, finely chopped (leave seeds and ribs in if you like more heat)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 celery stalks, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup thoroughly rinsed cilantro, including both leaves and stems, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 clove garlic, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 limes, juiced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup light olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Distilled white vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Poach desalted cod along with bay leaves in simmering water to cover for 3 minutes. Drain, cool and flake. Discard bay leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add to a bowl the onion, bell pepper, hot pepper, celery, cilantro, garlic, lime juice and olive oil. Add flaked cod and mix well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spoon mixture into large mason or other glass jar. Fill to top with distilled white vinegar. Cover and refrigerate for 1 week. Taste and correct for salt. Serve on lettuce, crackers, toast or bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003ch3>About Salt Cod\u003c/h3>\n\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Buying. \u003c/strong>The quality of salt cod varies considerably. Often, what is labeled \"salt cod,\" \"baccala'\" or \"bacalao\" is actually hake or another cod impersonator. You can make decent fish cakes using pretty much any of these, but for other recipes try to use the best quality salt cod you can find. This means nearly white whole fillets, about 2 or more inches thick in the thickest parts; these tend to come in wooden boxes packed in coarse salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Desalting\u003c/strong>. All of these recipes begin with desalting the salt cod. (You can skip this step if your fish seller — as some do in Italian and Latino markets — desalts the salt cod for you and sells it frozen.) This is done by soaking the fish in a pot of cold water for 2 days or so — changing the water 2 or 3 times a day. The pot should be kept in the refrigerator. Obviously, the thicker the salt cod, the longer the process will take.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salt\u003c/strong>. Because the desalting process can be a bit unpredictable, do not add salt to these dishes until they are done and you have tasted them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003ch3>About the Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp> Tom Gilbert writes about food, baseball, politics and the history of New York City. A longtime resident of Greenpoint, Brooklyn, where he is a notorious home cook, Tom knows the good food places in three NYC boroughs and several Italian regions; he can eat in eight languages and talk about eating in five. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Why eat preserved cod when fresh is so readily available? The salt transforms it into savory, complex comfort food, and nearly every country bordering the Atlantic Ocean has a version of it.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78888\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1523px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodmain_custom-30c6a2f2842b0a7f6a6c3074a2090e9a540b029c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodmain_custom-30c6a2f2842b0a7f6a6c3074a2090e9a540b029c.jpg\" alt=\"The best quality salt cod typically is sold as nearly white whole fillets, 2 or more inches thick in the thickest parts, often packed in coarse salt in wooden boxes. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"1523\" height=\"1033\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78888\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The best quality salt cod typically is sold as nearly white whole fillets, 2 or more inches thick in the thickest parts, often packed in coarse salt in wooden boxes. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Tom Gilbert, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/03/05/285784554/salt-cod-the-prosciutto-of-the-sea\" target=\"_blank\">The Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/5/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#cakes\">New England Salt Cod Cakes\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#napoletana\">Baccala' Alla Napoletana\u003c/a> (Salt Cod With Potatoes In Tomato Sauce), \u003ca href=\"#mexicana\">Bacalao A La Mexicana\u003c/a> (Salt Cod With Onions In Tomatillo Sauce) and \u003ca href=\"#pickled\">Nina's Cruzan Pickled Salt Fish\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the God of the Old Testament, salt cod goes by many names. The French call it \u003cem>morue\u003c/em>, the Italians \u003cem>baccala'\u003c/em> and the Portuguese \u003cem>bacalhau\u003c/em>. Of course, the fish is the same — Atlantic cod — and the process is the same — drying and salting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt cod is eaten in nearly every country that comes into contact with the Atlantic Ocean. For centuries, this meaty, plentiful fish, whose low fat content makes it uniquely amenable to long-term preservation, provided mankind with a protein bonanza. Long before airplanes, motor-powered ships or refrigeration, cod could be caught in the north Atlantic and eaten months later in Europe, Africa or Latin America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt cod is also very delicious — even more delicious, in the opinion of many, than fresh cod. Still, I have food-savvy friends who don't get it. \"Why eat salt cod,\" they ask, \"when thanks to refrigeration we can always find fresh cod?\" \"Why eat prosciutto,\" I answer, \"when you could have fresh ham?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is not a gratuitous comparison. As Harold McGee writes in his encyclopedic work of food science, \u003cem>On Food and Cooking\u003c/em>:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>The best of these [salted fish] are the piscatory equivalent of salt-cured hams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In both, salt buys time for transformation: it preserves them long and gently enough for enzymes of both fish and harmless salt-tolerant bacteria to break down flavorless proteins and fats into savory fragments, which then react further to create flavors of great complexity.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Amen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This flavor alchemy explains why salt cod continues to be a cherished comfort food, even as dwindling catches have transformed it from a cheap staple into a pricey delicacy. Expensive comfort food may be a paradox, but thanks to overfishing or ecological change or whatever else is on the list of possible causes for the recent collapse of the Atlantic cod fishery, it is a fact of life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another salt cod paradox is that devotion to this homey and once humble food inevitably leads to faraway places and exotic cuisines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up in New England, we ate salt cod exclusively in the form of fish cakes. My mother made them for dinner, although traditionally they served as part of a working-class breakfast. I still make them, although sometimes, out of thrift, I substitute leftover cooked fish (bluefish and mackerel are good) or smoked fish for some or all of the salt cod.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During a college semester in Los Angeles I was introduced to \u003cem>chiles rellenos \u003c/em>and \u003cem>enchiladas\u003c/em>, but also found a life-changing Mexican salt cod casserole that Aztec-ed up the Iberian classic \u003cem>Bacalao a la Vizcaina\u003c/em> with tomatillos and dried chilies. My mother-in-law taught me a spicy and vinegary salt cod dish from her Virgin Islands childhood called pickled salt fish (pronounced more like \"sow fish\").\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most Americans associate salt cod with Italians, but to true devotees, southern Europe from Lisbon to Istanbul is a magical mystery tour, in which each nation, region and city cooks the dish in its own way. The Portuguese are in a class by themselves as salt cod lovers. Great fishermen, they not only introduced salt cod to most of Europe, but also proudly claim to have more than a thousand distinct recipes for \u003cem>bacalhau\u003c/em> — and not a single recipe for fresh cod.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cakes\">\u003c/a>New England Salt Cod Cakes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These are wonderful when made entirely with salt cod, but out of thrift, or sometimes just for the sake of variety, you can substitute almost any white-fleshed leftover cooked fish, or even smoked fish, for some or all of the salt cod.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78889\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodcakes-888a5fc905097e2e712d2afa0630d5df8b542a4a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodcakes-888a5fc905097e2e712d2afa0630d5df8b542a4a.jpg\" alt=\"New England Salt Cod Cakes. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1087\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78889\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">New England Salt Cod Cakes. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound desalted salt cod\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 or 2 bay leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 medium-size starchy potatoes, boiled and mashed or riced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium Spanish onion, grated\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 eggs, lightly beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons finely chopped parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 generous pinch ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 small pinch grated nutmeg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup unseasoned breadcrumbs, or more as needed to bind the mixture\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dredging, 2 cups breadcrumbs, panko or flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 3 tablespoons of bacon fat or butter, or more as needed for frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 lemon, cut into wedges, or 1/2 cup tartar or hot sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Poach the desalted cod and bay leaf for 2 to 3 minutes in simmering water. Drain and flake cod; discard the bay leaf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, mix potatoes, onion, eggs, parsley, black pepper, nutmeg and breadcrumbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add flaked cod to bowl; mix all ingredients roughly by hand. The consistency should be moist but not so moist that you cannot form cakes about the size of a small hamburger that barely hold together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Form cakes and place them on a wax paper-lined cookie sheet. Cover with wax paper, then cover with tin foil and refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours in advance. You can cook them right away, but letting them rest in the refrigerator will help them hold together during frying.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take cakes out of refrigerator 15 minutes before cooking. Heat bacon fat or butter in a pan or cast iron skillet over medium heat until it sizzles when you add a small piece of bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dredge the fish cakes lightly in flour, unseasoned breadcrumbs or panko and fry for about 5 minutes on each side, or until they are heated through and the outsides are crispy and light to medium brown. Salt to taste and serve with lemon wedges, tartar sauce or hot sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"napoletana\">\u003c/a>Baccala' Alla Napoletana (Salt Cod With Potatoes In Tomato Sauce)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is real Italian soul food — hearty and unrefined — and there are varieties on this recipe to be found all over Italy. Often, the potatoes are omitted and the dish is served over pasta. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78890\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodnapoletana-33607207b7b9120eca4fdec7296a72da9eade27d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodnapoletana-33607207b7b9120eca4fdec7296a72da9eade27d.jpg\" alt=\"Baccala' Alla Napoletana (Salt Cod With Potatoes In Tomato Sauce). Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78890\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Baccala' Alla Napoletana (Salt Cod With Potatoes In Tomato Sauce). Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 to 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 medium starchy potatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup extra virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup black olives, pitted and roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large Spanish onion, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flour for dredging\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 pounds thick, desalted salt cod cut into large pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups canned San Marzano tomatoes, with juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon dried or 2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup white wine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 1 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons salted capers, soaked, drained and roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup finely chopped parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peel the potatoes and boil them in salted water until slightly undercooked. Drain and slice into 1/4-inch thick slices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over low heat, sauté the olives and onion in a tablespoon or 2 of olive oil until the onions soften (about 5 minutes). Remove and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raise heat to medium. Add the remaining olive oil to the pan. Dredge cod lightly in flour and fry on both sides until brown. Remove cod and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add to the skillet the tomatoes, oregano, wine, lemon juice, capers and half of the parsley. Cook until sauce begins to thicken (10 to 15 minutes).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the cod and potato slices back to the skillet, turning them in the sauce. Cover with the onion and olive mixture. Add a few generous grinds of black pepper. Turn heat to very low and simmer slowly for 45 to 60 minutes, adding water in small amounts if the dish begins to dry out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sprinkle with the remaining parsley before serving; drizzle with more olive oil or add another squeeze of lemon juice if you like. Taste and correct for salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"mexicana\">\u003c/a>Bacalao A La Mexicana (Salt Cod With Onions In Tomatillo Sauce)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Because it uses very thick pieces of salt cod, this dish can be extremely salty. I used to try to moderate the saltiness by soaking the salt cod for an extra few days, but over the years I have grown to enjoy it with an aggressive salty bite. Feel free to turn up the heat as well by adding hot peppers or hot pepper sauce to the \u003c/em>salsa verde\u003cem>. This recipe is adapted from \u003c/em>Uncommon Fruits and Vegetables: A Commonsense Guide\u003cem> by Elizabeth Schneider (William Morrow Cookbooks, 2010).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78891\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1447px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodmexicana-716e72382ef8c7cda0adafb8a88081b65d9fe9c9.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodmexicana-716e72382ef8c7cda0adafb8a88081b65d9fe9c9.jpg\" alt=\"Bacalao A La Mexicana (Salt Cod With Onions In Tomatillo Sauce). Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"1447\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78891\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bacalao A La Mexicana (Salt Cod With Onions In Tomatillo Sauce). Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 to 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salsa Verde (Tomatillo Sauce)\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound fresh tomatillos\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 or 3 ancho or other dried Mexican chilies (not chipotles)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 garlic cloves, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon tomato paste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch thoroughly rinsed cilantro roots and stems, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch cilantro leaves, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 lime, juiced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bacalao\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups \u003cem>salsa verde\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil or more as needed for sautéing\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large Spanish onions, sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flour for dredging\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound desalted salt cod, cut into pieces approximately 4-inches square\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups cooked rice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For salsa verde, peel and discard papery covering from tomatillos. Rinse tomatillos well under running warm water to clean and remove sticky coating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Boil 1 cup of water in a pot or saucepan. Clean dried chilies, discarding seeds and stems, and add them to hot water. Remove from heat and let stand for 15 to 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Puncture the tomatillos once or twice with a sharp fork and add to pot, along with garlic, tomato paste and chopped cilantro roots and stems. Cover and cook over low heat until tomatillos can be easily crushed. Allow sauce to cool. Add cilantro leaves and lime juice. Puree all ingredients in a blender or food processor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For bacalao, heat oil in a pan or skillet over low heat. Add onions and sauté slowly, stirring frequently, until onions are translucent and turning a light golden color. Remove onions to a casserole or baking dish, spreading them to cover the bottom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dredge cod lightly in flour. Turn heat under skillet to medium, and brown cod thoroughly on both sides in the onion-flavored oil. Remove cod and arrange in casserole on top of cooked onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reheat tomatillo sauce in skillet, scraping up remaining bits of flour, oil and juices. Pour sauce into casserole over cod and onions. Bake uncovered in 375-degree oven for 30 minutes. Taste and correct for salt. Serve over rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pickled\">\u003c/a>Nina's Cruzan Pickled Salt Fish\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This dish must cure for a week before eating; after that, it will keep for a month or so in the refrigerator. My mother-in-law, Nina, used to leave it on the kitchen counter, which is fine if ambient temperatures stay under 65 degrees or so.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78899\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodpickled-9485899dce864fe9a9e6560d030bb7cf16f1bfdb-s4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodpickled-9485899dce864fe9a9e6560d030bb7cf16f1bfdb-s4.jpg\" alt=\"Nina's Cruzan Pickled Salt Fish. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"467\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78899\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nina's Cruzan Pickled Salt Fish. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>1 pound desalted salt cod\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 bay leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium red onion, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 red bell pepper, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 jalapeno, habanero or other hot peppers with seeds and interior ribs removed, finely chopped (leave seeds and ribs in if you like more heat)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 celery stalks, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup thoroughly rinsed cilantro, including both leaves and stems, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 clove garlic, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 limes, juiced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup light olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Distilled white vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Poach desalted cod along with bay leaves in simmering water to cover for 3 minutes. Drain, cool and flake. Discard bay leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add to a bowl the onion, bell pepper, hot pepper, celery, cilantro, garlic, lime juice and olive oil. Add flaked cod and mix well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spoon mixture into large mason or other glass jar. Fill to top with distilled white vinegar. Cover and refrigerate for 1 week. Taste and correct for salt. Serve on lettuce, crackers, toast or bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003ch3>About Salt Cod\u003c/h3>\n\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Buying. \u003c/strong>The quality of salt cod varies considerably. Often, what is labeled \"salt cod,\" \"baccala'\" or \"bacalao\" is actually hake or another cod impersonator. You can make decent fish cakes using pretty much any of these, but for other recipes try to use the best quality salt cod you can find. This means nearly white whole fillets, about 2 or more inches thick in the thickest parts; these tend to come in wooden boxes packed in coarse salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Desalting\u003c/strong>. All of these recipes begin with desalting the salt cod. (You can skip this step if your fish seller — as some do in Italian and Latino markets — desalts the salt cod for you and sells it frozen.) This is done by soaking the fish in a pot of cold water for 2 days or so — changing the water 2 or 3 times a day. The pot should be kept in the refrigerator. Obviously, the thicker the salt cod, the longer the process will take.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salt\u003c/strong>. Because the desalting process can be a bit unpredictable, do not add salt to these dishes until they are done and you have tasted them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003ch3>About the Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp> Tom Gilbert writes about food, baseball, politics and the history of New York City. A longtime resident of Greenpoint, Brooklyn, where he is a notorious home cook, Tom knows the good food places in three NYC boroughs and several Italian regions; he can eat in eight languages and talk about eating in five. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"radiolab": {
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},
"rightnowish": {
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"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"info": "The Snap Judgment radio show and podcast mixes real stories with killer beats to produce cinematic, dramatic radio. Snap's musical brand of storytelling dares listeners to see the world through the eyes of another. This is storytelling... with a BEAT!! Snap first aired on public radio stations nationwide in July 2010. Today, Snap Judgment airs on over 450 public radio stations and is brought to the airwaves by KQED & PRX.",
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"soldout": {
"id": "soldout",
"title": "SOLD OUT: Rethinking Housing in America",
"tagline": "A new future for housing",
"info": "Sold Out: Rethinking Housing in America",
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