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"disqusTitle": "DIY Bagels: Bringing New York to Your Brunch Table",
"title": "DIY Bagels: Bringing New York to Your Brunch Table",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/all-shaped.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78834\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/all-shaped.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade bagels are easy to make and totally worth the time to do right. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"626\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade bagels are easy to make and totally worth the time to do right. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>About a month ago, a few enterprising young San Francisco foodies orchestrated a bagel pop-up. \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2014/02/10/the_nyc_bagel_popup_drew_insane_twohour_lines.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The duo imported a bunch of bagels\u003c/a> from New York’s Russ & Daughters, serving them to the bagel-starved hipster masses in the Mission. The line was painfully long and wet, leaving hopeful bagel eaters in the cold drizzle for up to two hours. Far before everyone reached the front, the bagels sold out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[contextly_sidebar id=\"1aV5N1A58UORJ4L0G9kE0VGMV6CtkPEz\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the event may or may not have been a success, it is clear that the denizens of San Francisco are jonesing for a good bagel or three. Yet there’s a far less annoying way to get them on your brunch table than braving a line: make them yourself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Baking your own bagels isn’t particularly difficult, but it does require time. Plan on starting the dough the afternoon before you’d like to eat them. When I’m baking any kind of bread, I use a stand mixer to knead the dough. Not only is it easier, but it also allows me to better control the amount of flour going into the dough. That said, you could absolutely knead this dough by hand (see the recipe below for instructions).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78835\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/ingredients-1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78835\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/ingredients-1.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade bagels have a short ingredient list: flour, yeast, salt, barley malt syrup, baking soda, and water. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade bagels have a short ingredient list: flour, yeast, salt, barley malt syrup, baking soda, and water. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I use a kitchen scale to measure the ingredients for the dough, using the gram setting on the scale. If you don’t own a scale, you should seriously consider buying one—it’ll make all of your baking projects easier and more accurate. I’ve scaled this recipe to use 1 pound or 455 grams of bread flour, which I measure directly into my mixer bowl. Bread flour has a higher protein check, so it will form more gluten and will therefore give the bagels serious chew. If you’re planning ahead, you can also look for high-gluten flour, which has an even higher protein content to use. It’s the preferred bagel flour for bakers like \u003ca href=\"http://peterreinhart.typepad.com/about.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Peter Reinhart\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78836\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/remaining-autolyse.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78836\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/remaining-autolyse.jpg\" alt=\"Using a scale makes measuring a breeze. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Using a scale makes measuring a breeze. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To the flour, I add a little more than a cup (255 grams) of lukewarm water—shoot for around 90-95 degrees. For those who dabble in baker’s percentages, this will put the dough at around 56% hydration. Bagels get their dense structure from using a very stiff, low hydration dough like this one. (As a comparison, much lighter breads like sandwich breads are typically mixed at 75% to even 80% hydration.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For sweetness, I add barley malt syrup, but you can also use honey if that’s what you’ve got on hand. Finally, I add a small amount of yeast. Since the dough will have an extended cold proof in the fridge, it doesn’t need very much yeast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78837\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/autolyse.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78837\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/autolyse.jpg\" alt=\"After the initial mixing, the dough will be shaggy and sticky. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">After the initial mixing, the dough will be shaggy and sticky. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once everything is measured, I place the bowl in the stand mixer fitted with the dough hook and knead the dough on low speed until all of the flour is incorporated. Then I let this shaggy dough rest for 10 to 15 minutes. This period of rest is called the autolyse method and it allows the flour to hydrate and relax for easier kneading. I leave out the salt during the autolyse because it interferes with the flour’s hydration process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the autolyse, I like to add a generous amount of salt—2 1/2 teaspoons of coarse kosher—because it gives the dough greater depth of flavor. Once I’ve added it to the mixer, I raise the speed to medium and knead the dough for about 10 minutes. Since this dough is very stiff, it has a tendency to rock the mixer around, so don’t walk away. I like to keep my hand on the top of the mixer as it is kneading. Hanging out also gives me the opportunity to scrape the sides of the mixer bowl from time to time to ensure that the dough is kneading evenly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78838\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/kneaded-dough.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78838\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/kneaded-dough.jpg\" alt=\"The fully kneaded dough will be smooth and elastic. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The fully kneaded dough will be smooth and elastic. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll know that the dough is fully kneaded when it is stretchy, smooth, and no longer sticky. It should also pull away from the sides of the mixer bowl. Dump the fully kneaded dough onto a clean countertop and roll it into a ball. It shouldn’t stick to the counter. Transfer the dough ball to a large, lightly greased mixing bowl. Lightly grease the top of the dough and cover the bowl with plastic wrap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Depending on my schedule, I’ll either let the dough rise on the counter until doubled or stick it in the fridge to rise more slowly. This stage will take around one hour on the counter (depending on the ambient temperature in the room) or 3 to 4 hours in the fridge. You could even let the dough sit longer in the fridge if needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78839\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/risen-dough.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78839\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/risen-dough.jpg\" alt=\"After 4 hours in the fridge, the dough has just about doubled in size. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"646\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">After 4 hours in the fridge, the dough has just about doubled in size. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now the dough is ready to be shaped. To ensure that the bagels bake evenly, I like to use a scale to divide the dough into six equal pieces. Simply weigh the entire round of dough, and then divide the total weight by six to get the weight for each bagel. My dough clocked in at 729 grams, so I weighed out about 121.5 grams per bagel. Use a bench scraper to cut the dough into neat pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next, I pre-shape the bagels by rolling each piece into a ball. I let these balls rest for about 10 minutes, covered with a damp kitchen towel. Pre-shaping the dough will help the gluten relax and keep the bagels from totally snapping back when you try to shape them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78840\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/shaping-bagels.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78840\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/shaping-bagels.jpg\" alt=\"I prefer the poke method for shaping bagels. Photos: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"625\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I prefer the poke method for shaping bagels. Photos: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are a couple of ways to form bagels: the snake method and the (easier and more reliable) poke method. I go for easy and reliable. Simply use your thumb and index finger to poke a hole through the center of the dough ball. Then gently work all of your fingers into the hole to stretch it larger. Continue to work with the dough until you’ve stretched the hole to about 2 inches in diameter. It’ll shrink upon proofing and baking, so you want to make the hole extra big. Place the shaped bagels onto an oiled parchment-lined baking sheet and brush each bagel with a bit of olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once all of the bagels are shaped, they need to proof. I like to let this step happen slowly in the refrigerator. While not totally necessary, this slow, extended proof develops subtle fermented flavor in the dough. At lower temperatures, yeast produces less carbon dioxide and more of the positive flavor components of fermentation, like sugars and acids. Plus, the bubbles formed by the yeast are smaller at a lower temperature, leading to a more compact bagel. (No one wants a fluffy light bagel!) I give my bagels around 12 hours in the fridge. This usually works out to an overnight proof. It’s actually perfect timing—the bagels will be ready to eat for brunch the next morning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78841\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/fully-proofed.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78841\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/fully-proofed.jpg\" alt=\"The next day, the proofed bagels will have risen slightly. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The next day, the proofed bagels will have risen slightly. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll want to let the cold, proofed bagels warm up a bit before cooking. I take them out of the fridge about one hour before I plan to stick them in the oven. This is also a good time to turn on the oven. I bake my bagels at a flaming hot 500 degrees, and the oven needs extra time to get its temperature up that high and to remain consistent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next, I prepare my boiling water bath. I bring a big pot of water to a boil over high heat and then reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Then in goes some more barley malt syrup (for color and flavor) and baking soda. The baking soda alkalizes the water, giving the boiled bagels a crisper, browner crust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78842\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/boiling.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78842\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/boiling.jpg\" alt=\"Boil the bagels in a mixture of barley malt syrup and baking soda for the best crust. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Boil the bagels in a mixture of barley malt syrup and baking soda for the best crust. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I can fit three bagels in my pot. You may be able to fit more or less, just keep in mind that you don’t want to crowd the pot too much. Boil the bagels for about one minute on each side. You’ll notice that the bagels will puff and then deflate a little in the water. That’s perfectly normal. The bagels will also take on a yellow-ish hue. Again, normal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the boiled bagels back to the parchment-lined baking sheet, letting any water drip off back into the pot. While they’re still wet, sprinkle with any bagel topping you’d like. I’m a big fan of sesame seed bagels, so that’s what I’ve used here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78843\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sesame-seeded.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78843\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sesame-seeded.jpg\" alt=\"After the bagels have come out of the water bath, they will be a little wrinkly and deflated. They’ll also be wet and sticky, so it’s a good time to sprinkle on toppings. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">After the bagels have come out of the water bath, they will be a little wrinkly and deflated. They’ll also be wet and sticky, so it’s a good time to sprinkle on toppings. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finally (finally!) bake the bagels. Place the tray in the super hot oven and let the bagels bake until they’re deep golden brown and have formed a crisp skin. It’ll take about 20 minutes. Rotate the tray after about 10 minutes to make sure everything is baking evenly. Check on the bagels after about 15 minutes to make sure the bottoms aren’t getting too dark. If that’s the case, stack another baking sheet under the first one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You’ll want to let the baked bagels cool completely before slicing in. I know that sounds like an exercise in exhausting impatience, but keep in mind the fact that the steam trapped inside the crisp exterior will continue to “bake” on the bagels, even after they’ve been pulled from the oven. They will be gummy while still hot. Don’t worry too much—cooling only takes around 20 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, dig in! The bagels are best that morning; so don’t hesitate to indulge in a couple, or three, or four.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78844\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/final-bagels-2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78844\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/final-bagels-2.jpg\" alt=\"DIY sesame bagels. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">DIY sesame bagels. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: DIY Bagels\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 bagels\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: Dough recipe can be doubled to make 12 bagels. You will need two baking sheets. The ingredients for the boiling water bath do not need to be doubled. You can find barley malt syrup at high-end grocery stores like Whole Foods or at brewery supply stores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients: \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>3 1/2 cups (455 grams) unbleached bread flour\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (255 grams) lukewarm water, plus 2 to 3 quarts for boiling\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 1/2 tablespoons (49.5 grams) barley malt syrup or honey, divided\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/4 teaspoons (3.75 grams) active dry yeast or 1 teaspoon (3 grams) instant yeast\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 1/2 teaspoons (10.5 grams) kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Olive oil or nonstick cooking spray\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon (14 grams) baking soda\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Toppings such as sesame seeds, poppy seeds, coarse salt, onion flakes, or garlic flakes\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Equipment:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Scale\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Standing mixer (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Large bowl\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bench scraper or sharp knife\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Baking sheet\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Parchment paper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pastry brush (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Large pot\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Slotted spoon\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>If using a stand mixer, combine flour, lukewarm water, 1 tablespoon malt syrup, and yeast in mixer bowl. Attach to mixer fitted with dough attachment. Knead on low speed until a shaggy dough forms, 2 to 3 minutes. Let dough rest, covered with a damp kitchen towel, for 10 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add salt to the dough and knead on medium speed until the dough is elastic, pulls away from the sides of the mixer bowl, and is no longer sticky when touched, 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer the dough to a clean counter and shape into a ball. Place in a lightly oiled large bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise for 1 hour at room temperature or up to 4 hours in the refrigerator. The dough should have doubled in size.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If kneading by hand, combine flour, lukewarm water, 1 tablespoon malt syrup, and yeast in a large mixing bowl. Use your fingers to bring the ingredients together into a shaggy dough. Let dough rest, covered with a damp kitchen towel, for 10 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add salt to the dough and knead together. Transfer the dough to a very lightly floured counter and knead until the dough is elastic and no longer sticky when touched, 10 to 15 minutes. Shape dough into a ball. Place in a lightly oiled large bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise for 1 hour at room temperature or up to 4 hours in the refrigerator. The dough should have doubled in size. Meanwhile, lightly oil a parchment-lined baking sheet with olive oil or spray it with nonstick cooking spray.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Once dough has risen, weigh it on a kitchen scale. Divide the total weight by 6 to get the ideal weight for each bagel. Divide the dough into 6 equally-sized pieces using the scale. Pre-shape the bagels by rolling each piece into a taut ball. Let rest, covered with a damp kitchen towel, for 10 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To form the bagels, use your thumb and index finger poke a hole all the way through in the center of each dough ball. Gently work all of your fingers into the hole, stretching it to form a larger hole, about 2 inches in diameter. Place the shaped bagels onto the prepared baking sheet.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Once all of the bagels are shaped, gently brush with olive oil or spray with nonstick cooking spray. Cover bagels with plastic wrap, and place in the refrigerator to proof for 8 to 12 hours (an overnight proof works best for most schedules).\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The next morning, remove bagels from the fridge about 1 hour before you’d like to bake them. Preheat the oven to 500 degrees.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>When you’re ready to bake, fill a large, wide pot with water to a depth of about 4 inches. Bring the water to a rolling boil, and then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Add the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons barley malt syrup and the baking soda. Stir gently to dissolve the syrup.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Gently place proofed bagels into the simmering water bath. Three to 4 bagels should fit comfortably in most pots. Simmer bagels for 1 minute on each side and then remove from the water bath with a slotted spoon. Return to parchment-lined baking sheet. Continue with remaining bagels. While bagels are still wet, sprinkle with desired toppings.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake bagels in the oven until deeply browned and crisp, about 20 minutes, rotating the baking sheet halfway through the cooking time. If it seems that the bagels are browning too much on the bottom, stack another baking sheet underneath.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Let bagels cool completely before slicing and serving. Bagels are best the day they are made, but will keep for a couple of days in an airtight container. Leftover bagels are best toasted.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Instead of waiting in line for fresh bagels, make your own. It's not difficult; it just takes patience. Kate Williams suggests starting the day before so you can have fresh bagels in the morning. It'll be worth it.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/all-shaped.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78834\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/all-shaped.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade bagels are easy to make and totally worth the time to do right. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"626\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade bagels are easy to make and totally worth the time to do right. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>About a month ago, a few enterprising young San Francisco foodies orchestrated a bagel pop-up. \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2014/02/10/the_nyc_bagel_popup_drew_insane_twohour_lines.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The duo imported a bunch of bagels\u003c/a> from New York’s Russ & Daughters, serving them to the bagel-starved hipster masses in the Mission. The line was painfully long and wet, leaving hopeful bagel eaters in the cold drizzle for up to two hours. Far before everyone reached the front, the bagels sold out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the event may or may not have been a success, it is clear that the denizens of San Francisco are jonesing for a good bagel or three. Yet there’s a far less annoying way to get them on your brunch table than braving a line: make them yourself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Baking your own bagels isn’t particularly difficult, but it does require time. Plan on starting the dough the afternoon before you’d like to eat them. When I’m baking any kind of bread, I use a stand mixer to knead the dough. Not only is it easier, but it also allows me to better control the amount of flour going into the dough. That said, you could absolutely knead this dough by hand (see the recipe below for instructions).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78835\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/ingredients-1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78835\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/ingredients-1.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade bagels have a short ingredient list: flour, yeast, salt, barley malt syrup, baking soda, and water. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade bagels have a short ingredient list: flour, yeast, salt, barley malt syrup, baking soda, and water. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I use a kitchen scale to measure the ingredients for the dough, using the gram setting on the scale. If you don’t own a scale, you should seriously consider buying one—it’ll make all of your baking projects easier and more accurate. I’ve scaled this recipe to use 1 pound or 455 grams of bread flour, which I measure directly into my mixer bowl. Bread flour has a higher protein check, so it will form more gluten and will therefore give the bagels serious chew. If you’re planning ahead, you can also look for high-gluten flour, which has an even higher protein content to use. It’s the preferred bagel flour for bakers like \u003ca href=\"http://peterreinhart.typepad.com/about.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Peter Reinhart\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78836\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/remaining-autolyse.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78836\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/remaining-autolyse.jpg\" alt=\"Using a scale makes measuring a breeze. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Using a scale makes measuring a breeze. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To the flour, I add a little more than a cup (255 grams) of lukewarm water—shoot for around 90-95 degrees. For those who dabble in baker’s percentages, this will put the dough at around 56% hydration. Bagels get their dense structure from using a very stiff, low hydration dough like this one. (As a comparison, much lighter breads like sandwich breads are typically mixed at 75% to even 80% hydration.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For sweetness, I add barley malt syrup, but you can also use honey if that’s what you’ve got on hand. Finally, I add a small amount of yeast. Since the dough will have an extended cold proof in the fridge, it doesn’t need very much yeast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78837\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/autolyse.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78837\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/autolyse.jpg\" alt=\"After the initial mixing, the dough will be shaggy and sticky. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">After the initial mixing, the dough will be shaggy and sticky. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once everything is measured, I place the bowl in the stand mixer fitted with the dough hook and knead the dough on low speed until all of the flour is incorporated. Then I let this shaggy dough rest for 10 to 15 minutes. This period of rest is called the autolyse method and it allows the flour to hydrate and relax for easier kneading. I leave out the salt during the autolyse because it interferes with the flour’s hydration process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the autolyse, I like to add a generous amount of salt—2 1/2 teaspoons of coarse kosher—because it gives the dough greater depth of flavor. Once I’ve added it to the mixer, I raise the speed to medium and knead the dough for about 10 minutes. Since this dough is very stiff, it has a tendency to rock the mixer around, so don’t walk away. I like to keep my hand on the top of the mixer as it is kneading. Hanging out also gives me the opportunity to scrape the sides of the mixer bowl from time to time to ensure that the dough is kneading evenly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78838\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/kneaded-dough.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78838\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/kneaded-dough.jpg\" alt=\"The fully kneaded dough will be smooth and elastic. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The fully kneaded dough will be smooth and elastic. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll know that the dough is fully kneaded when it is stretchy, smooth, and no longer sticky. It should also pull away from the sides of the mixer bowl. Dump the fully kneaded dough onto a clean countertop and roll it into a ball. It shouldn’t stick to the counter. Transfer the dough ball to a large, lightly greased mixing bowl. Lightly grease the top of the dough and cover the bowl with plastic wrap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Depending on my schedule, I’ll either let the dough rise on the counter until doubled or stick it in the fridge to rise more slowly. This stage will take around one hour on the counter (depending on the ambient temperature in the room) or 3 to 4 hours in the fridge. You could even let the dough sit longer in the fridge if needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78839\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/risen-dough.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78839\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/risen-dough.jpg\" alt=\"After 4 hours in the fridge, the dough has just about doubled in size. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"646\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">After 4 hours in the fridge, the dough has just about doubled in size. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now the dough is ready to be shaped. To ensure that the bagels bake evenly, I like to use a scale to divide the dough into six equal pieces. Simply weigh the entire round of dough, and then divide the total weight by six to get the weight for each bagel. My dough clocked in at 729 grams, so I weighed out about 121.5 grams per bagel. Use a bench scraper to cut the dough into neat pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next, I pre-shape the bagels by rolling each piece into a ball. I let these balls rest for about 10 minutes, covered with a damp kitchen towel. Pre-shaping the dough will help the gluten relax and keep the bagels from totally snapping back when you try to shape them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78840\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/shaping-bagels.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78840\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/shaping-bagels.jpg\" alt=\"I prefer the poke method for shaping bagels. Photos: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"625\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I prefer the poke method for shaping bagels. Photos: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are a couple of ways to form bagels: the snake method and the (easier and more reliable) poke method. I go for easy and reliable. Simply use your thumb and index finger to poke a hole through the center of the dough ball. Then gently work all of your fingers into the hole to stretch it larger. Continue to work with the dough until you’ve stretched the hole to about 2 inches in diameter. It’ll shrink upon proofing and baking, so you want to make the hole extra big. Place the shaped bagels onto an oiled parchment-lined baking sheet and brush each bagel with a bit of olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once all of the bagels are shaped, they need to proof. I like to let this step happen slowly in the refrigerator. While not totally necessary, this slow, extended proof develops subtle fermented flavor in the dough. At lower temperatures, yeast produces less carbon dioxide and more of the positive flavor components of fermentation, like sugars and acids. Plus, the bubbles formed by the yeast are smaller at a lower temperature, leading to a more compact bagel. (No one wants a fluffy light bagel!) I give my bagels around 12 hours in the fridge. This usually works out to an overnight proof. It’s actually perfect timing—the bagels will be ready to eat for brunch the next morning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78841\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/fully-proofed.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78841\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/fully-proofed.jpg\" alt=\"The next day, the proofed bagels will have risen slightly. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The next day, the proofed bagels will have risen slightly. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll want to let the cold, proofed bagels warm up a bit before cooking. I take them out of the fridge about one hour before I plan to stick them in the oven. This is also a good time to turn on the oven. I bake my bagels at a flaming hot 500 degrees, and the oven needs extra time to get its temperature up that high and to remain consistent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next, I prepare my boiling water bath. I bring a big pot of water to a boil over high heat and then reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Then in goes some more barley malt syrup (for color and flavor) and baking soda. The baking soda alkalizes the water, giving the boiled bagels a crisper, browner crust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78842\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/boiling.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78842\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/boiling.jpg\" alt=\"Boil the bagels in a mixture of barley malt syrup and baking soda for the best crust. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Boil the bagels in a mixture of barley malt syrup and baking soda for the best crust. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I can fit three bagels in my pot. You may be able to fit more or less, just keep in mind that you don’t want to crowd the pot too much. Boil the bagels for about one minute on each side. You’ll notice that the bagels will puff and then deflate a little in the water. That’s perfectly normal. The bagels will also take on a yellow-ish hue. Again, normal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the boiled bagels back to the parchment-lined baking sheet, letting any water drip off back into the pot. While they’re still wet, sprinkle with any bagel topping you’d like. I’m a big fan of sesame seed bagels, so that’s what I’ve used here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78843\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sesame-seeded.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78843\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sesame-seeded.jpg\" alt=\"After the bagels have come out of the water bath, they will be a little wrinkly and deflated. They’ll also be wet and sticky, so it’s a good time to sprinkle on toppings. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">After the bagels have come out of the water bath, they will be a little wrinkly and deflated. They’ll also be wet and sticky, so it’s a good time to sprinkle on toppings. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finally (finally!) bake the bagels. Place the tray in the super hot oven and let the bagels bake until they’re deep golden brown and have formed a crisp skin. It’ll take about 20 minutes. Rotate the tray after about 10 minutes to make sure everything is baking evenly. Check on the bagels after about 15 minutes to make sure the bottoms aren’t getting too dark. If that’s the case, stack another baking sheet under the first one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You’ll want to let the baked bagels cool completely before slicing in. I know that sounds like an exercise in exhausting impatience, but keep in mind the fact that the steam trapped inside the crisp exterior will continue to “bake” on the bagels, even after they’ve been pulled from the oven. They will be gummy while still hot. Don’t worry too much—cooling only takes around 20 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, dig in! The bagels are best that morning; so don’t hesitate to indulge in a couple, or three, or four.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78844\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/final-bagels-2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78844\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/final-bagels-2.jpg\" alt=\"DIY sesame bagels. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">DIY sesame bagels. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: DIY Bagels\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 bagels\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: Dough recipe can be doubled to make 12 bagels. You will need two baking sheets. The ingredients for the boiling water bath do not need to be doubled. You can find barley malt syrup at high-end grocery stores like Whole Foods or at brewery supply stores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients: \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>3 1/2 cups (455 grams) unbleached bread flour\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (255 grams) lukewarm water, plus 2 to 3 quarts for boiling\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 1/2 tablespoons (49.5 grams) barley malt syrup or honey, divided\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/4 teaspoons (3.75 grams) active dry yeast or 1 teaspoon (3 grams) instant yeast\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 1/2 teaspoons (10.5 grams) kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Olive oil or nonstick cooking spray\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon (14 grams) baking soda\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Toppings such as sesame seeds, poppy seeds, coarse salt, onion flakes, or garlic flakes\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Equipment:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Scale\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Standing mixer (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Large bowl\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bench scraper or sharp knife\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Baking sheet\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Parchment paper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pastry brush (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Large pot\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Slotted spoon\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>If using a stand mixer, combine flour, lukewarm water, 1 tablespoon malt syrup, and yeast in mixer bowl. Attach to mixer fitted with dough attachment. Knead on low speed until a shaggy dough forms, 2 to 3 minutes. Let dough rest, covered with a damp kitchen towel, for 10 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add salt to the dough and knead on medium speed until the dough is elastic, pulls away from the sides of the mixer bowl, and is no longer sticky when touched, 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer the dough to a clean counter and shape into a ball. Place in a lightly oiled large bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise for 1 hour at room temperature or up to 4 hours in the refrigerator. The dough should have doubled in size.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If kneading by hand, combine flour, lukewarm water, 1 tablespoon malt syrup, and yeast in a large mixing bowl. Use your fingers to bring the ingredients together into a shaggy dough. Let dough rest, covered with a damp kitchen towel, for 10 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add salt to the dough and knead together. Transfer the dough to a very lightly floured counter and knead until the dough is elastic and no longer sticky when touched, 10 to 15 minutes. Shape dough into a ball. Place in a lightly oiled large bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise for 1 hour at room temperature or up to 4 hours in the refrigerator. The dough should have doubled in size. Meanwhile, lightly oil a parchment-lined baking sheet with olive oil or spray it with nonstick cooking spray.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Once dough has risen, weigh it on a kitchen scale. Divide the total weight by 6 to get the ideal weight for each bagel. Divide the dough into 6 equally-sized pieces using the scale. Pre-shape the bagels by rolling each piece into a taut ball. Let rest, covered with a damp kitchen towel, for 10 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To form the bagels, use your thumb and index finger poke a hole all the way through in the center of each dough ball. Gently work all of your fingers into the hole, stretching it to form a larger hole, about 2 inches in diameter. Place the shaped bagels onto the prepared baking sheet.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Once all of the bagels are shaped, gently brush with olive oil or spray with nonstick cooking spray. Cover bagels with plastic wrap, and place in the refrigerator to proof for 8 to 12 hours (an overnight proof works best for most schedules).\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The next morning, remove bagels from the fridge about 1 hour before you’d like to bake them. Preheat the oven to 500 degrees.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>When you’re ready to bake, fill a large, wide pot with water to a depth of about 4 inches. Bring the water to a rolling boil, and then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Add the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons barley malt syrup and the baking soda. Stir gently to dissolve the syrup.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Gently place proofed bagels into the simmering water bath. Three to 4 bagels should fit comfortably in most pots. Simmer bagels for 1 minute on each side and then remove from the water bath with a slotted spoon. Return to parchment-lined baking sheet. Continue with remaining bagels. While bagels are still wet, sprinkle with desired toppings.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake bagels in the oven until deeply browned and crisp, about 20 minutes, rotating the baking sheet halfway through the cooking time. If it seems that the bagels are browning too much on the bottom, stack another baking sheet underneath.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Let bagels cool completely before slicing and serving. Bagels are best the day they are made, but will keep for a couple of days in an airtight container. Leftover bagels are best toasted.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Making Boudin Blanc with the Meat Club: Try It Yourself",
"title": "Making Boudin Blanc with the Meat Club: Try It Yourself",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78756\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/featuresausage.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/featuresausage.jpg\" alt=\"Finished raw sausage. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78756\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Finished raw sausage. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Don't make sausage--or pâté, or rillettes--alone. That's the mission statement of the Meat Club, an informal group of meat-project enthusiasts who have been gathering these past few months to tackle DIY kitchen projects that might daunt the solo cook. This past Sunday, eleven members of the ad hoc club met in North Oakland to tackle French \u003cem>boudin blanc,\u003c/em> a suave, emulsified sausage made from pork, chicken, and cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By 5 p.m., host Lisa Kramer was setting up the four stand mixers that members--a loose affiliation of friends and friends-of-friends, roughly divided between food-industry professionals and accomplished hobbyists--have hauled over. Suzanne Drexhage, owner of Berkeley's cafe-wine bar \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/01/23/bartavelle-coffee-and-wine-bar/\">Bartavelle\u003c/a>, and Kelsie Kerr, who worked as a chef at both \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.caferouge.net\">Cafe Rouge\u003c/a> and co-authored both volumes of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0307336794/kqedorg-20\">\u003cem>The Art of Simple Food\u003c/em>\u003c/a> with Alice Waters, were calmly chopping some 15 pounds of boneless pork shoulder, sourced from Cafe Rouge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78753\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/seangrinding4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/seangrinding4.jpg\" alt=\"Sean grinds the meat. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78753\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sean grinds the meat. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sean Timberlake of \u003ca href=\"http://www.punkdomestics.com/\">Punk Domestics\u003c/a> arrived, his apron emblazoned \"Go Pig or Go Home.\" With him was Karen Solomon, author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580089585/kqedorg-20\">\u003cem>Jam It, Pickle It, Cure It\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, her own apron a frilled, hot-pink number inscribed with a not-exactly-family-friendly word (let's just say it rhymes with \u003cem>stitch\u003c/em>). Aprons are definitely the accessory of the moment, since by the end of the night we all will be well greased with what Drexhage dubs \"pork shmoo.\" Previous Meat Clubbers still remember the \"lard explosion\" of the first meeting, when the group made \u003cem>ciccolli,\u003c/em> a slow-cooked, spreadable pork terrine from Emilia-Romagna that involves intense rendering.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78752\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/salting-meat2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/salting-meat2.jpg\" alt=\"Salting the meat. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78752\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salting the meat. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Spread out wherever there's room for a pan or a cutting board, the eleven of us each found a job: measuring and grinding spices; cubing chicken breast; slicing creamy white pork fat into strips; trimming the crusts off a loaf of white, fine-crumbed pain de mie; sauteing sliced onions in butter. The meats and fat are mixed, salted, and spiced, then spread out in hotel pans and popped into the fridge to chill before grinding. This is something I learned in my time making large quantities of sausage in the kitchen at Sausalito's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/09/makin-bacon-at-the-headlands/\">Headlands Center for the Arts\u003c/a>: keep every part of your sausage-makings, from the meat to the grinder blades, as cold as possible. As with pie crust, you want to keep your fat firm, not softening into paste. Cold meat and cold fat grinds smooth and clean, without clogging.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's especially important on the large scale we're working with tonight. We've decided on roughly three pounds of finished sausage per person, which means starting out with some 30 pounds of meat, which is a lot to process in a home kitchen without trough-sized mixing bowls or a walk-in refrigerator. So, we filled the largest roasting pans we could find with our raw meat mixture and headed to the dining room to snack while they chilled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, the break table was a feast of DIY. I bring the test batch of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/02/24/get-your-beignets-ready-for-mardi-gras/\" target=\"_blank\">beignets \u003c/a>I've just made, with a jar of crab apple syrup (otherwise known as jelly that never set, but who needs to know?) for drizzling. Sean sets up his new signature treat, the Mason jar relish tray. Each mini-jar is filled with homemade preserved, fermented, or pickled treats, from kimchee and \u003cem>hoshigaki\u003c/em> (Japanese-style dried persimmons) to bread-and-butter pickles, pickled turnips and sweet peppers in oil. Elaine added a jar of her homemade butter; Lisa provided bread and a creamy round of Cowgirl Creamery's Mt Tam cheese. Amy's Mendocino \u003ca href=\"http://www.navarrowine.com/\">Navarro\u003c/a> Chardonnay and my bottle of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/12/02/san-francisco-mead-company-whats-the-buzz/\">SF Mead Company\u003c/a>'s \"California Gold\" are kept back for later, when we've finished with the heavy machinery. If you haven't seen a deluxe KitchenAid whapping around six pounds of sausage mix, well, it's a sight that warrants sobriety.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78750\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/mixed-meats3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/mixed-meats3.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken, pork and pork fat ready for grinding. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78750\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chicken, pork and pork fat ready for grinding. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Back in the meat room, we fed the chunks of meat and fat into the hoppers, watching the coarse-ground ground meat snake down to the bowls, dumping each heaping bowl into empty roasting pans as they filled. Then, we changed out the grinding disks from coarse to fine, and ground the sausage again. Kelsie suggested sending the mixture through the fine disks one more time for ultimate smoothness, but faced with 30 pounds of meat, and both emulsifying and stuffing still ahead of us, we demurred (although you certainly can).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The meat got divided into five- and six-pound piles, according to the size of our assorted mixers, then paddle-slapped in batches until fluffy and smooth. Then, it went back into the fridge to chill, while we started rolling hog casings like stockings or, yes, condoms, onto the cone-shaped stuffing attachments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hog casings are cleaned, empty hog intestines, usually sold frozen or packed in salt. If you get them salt packed, you'll need to soak them until they're re-hydrated. I ask the group where they'd source hog casings; they suggest \u003ca href=\"http://www.avedanos.com\">Avedano's\u003c/a>, Cafe Rouge, \u003ca href=\"http://www.goldengatemeatcompany.com/\">Golden Gate Meats\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/vbfoods\">Ver Brugge Foods\u003c/a>. (I'd add in \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinameats.com/\">Marina Meats\u003c/a>.) It's a good idea to call ahead, since it's an item that may need to be special ordered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78751\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/mixing5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/mixing5.jpg\" alt=\"Mixing the sausage with cream and bread crumbs. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78751\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mixing the sausage with cream and bread crumbs. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Into the home stretch, now: Time to stuff! This was a duet for four hands: one to feed the hopper, one to manage the coiling sausage as it filled. By this point, the mixture was thick and sticky, with a tendency to suction itself into the hopper. It has be pushed down firmly, in long up-and-all-the-way-down strokes. My partner in pork-shmoo, Jeanne Brophy, discovers a trick that keeps the mixture from forming a vacuum that sucks the casing back into the tube: she makes a ring with her thumb and forefinger and \"cleans\" the sausage mix from the pusher as she goes, pushing the meat back down into the hopper as she pulls the pusher up. Don't overfill the casing as you go; this is a soft filling that will expand as it cooks. It's hypnotically satisfying, watching the filled coils snake down. We tied off the ends, like tying a balloon, and brought them over to where Sean was swiftly twisting them into links, twisting in alternate directions to keep the links from untwisting themselves in the car and BART rides home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78754\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/stuffing6.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/stuffing6.jpg\" alt=\"Stuffing the sausages. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78754\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stuffing the sausages. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It will be after 11 p.m. by the time I finally made it back to Bernal Heights, shmoo on my shoes and some three-plus pounds of sausage ready for poaching, as elegant as sausage can be. But first, with wine and mead, we toasted another project completed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Boudin Blanc\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060175834/kqedorg-20\">'The Chez Panisse Cafe Cookbook'\u003c/a> by Alice Waters.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The key to stress-free sausage making is keeping everything--the meat, the bowls, the paddles, and especially the grinding attachments--very cold. This keeps the fat in the sausage mix from softening into a smeary paste, which can clog the grinder and stuffer. Chill your bowls, paddles, grinding and stuffing attachments in the freezer for at least an hour before you start. Allow extra time to chill your meat mixture before grinding and before stuffing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 3 pounds of finished sausage\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 1/4 lb boneless pork shoulder,\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 lb skinless chicken breast\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 lb pork fat\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 tbsp sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Spice mix:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 bay leaf\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 1/2 tsp black peppercorns\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 allspice berry\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp caraway seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp coriander seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp dried thyme\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 tsp cayenne\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 tsp freshly grated nutmeg\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003c/li>\u003cli>1 medium onion, peeled and sliced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups heavy cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tsp fresh thyme leaves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Hog casings, soaked and rinsed\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Chop pork shoulder into rough cubes, removing any stringy, gristly bits or glands as you go. Do the same for the chicken and pork fat. Mix pork, chicken, and fat together, sprinkling with the salt and mixing well. Chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While meat mixture is chilling, grind the spices to a fine powder in a spice grinder. Measure 1 tablespoon of the powdered spices and mix into meat.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Using the coarse disk on your grinder, grind the pork and chicken mixture. Return the mixture to the fridge while you replace the coarse disk on your grinder with the fine one. Grind the mixture through the fine disk.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli> In a saute pan over medium heat, melt butter. Saute onions, stirring frequently, until soft and translucent. Remove from heat and let cool.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix bread crumbs into cream and let soak for a few minutes. Mix ground meat with onions, cream mixture and thyme. Scoop meat mixture into the chilled bowl of a stand mixer. Mix with the paddle attachment on high speed for 5-7 minutes, until mixture is fluffy and smooth.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring a small pot of water to a simmer. Add a tablespoon of meat mixture. Poach for a few minutes, until cooked through. Drain and let cool for a few minutes. Taste for seasoning, and add additional salt and/or spice mix to the meat mixture as needed. If desired, poach another test spoonful after seasoning to taste again.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Return mixture to the fridge to chill for another 15-20 minutes. Put stuffing attachment onto stand mixer. Roll hog casing onto stuffer. Feed meat mixture into hopper, pushing with a wooden or plastic pusher. Fill casing loosely. Tie off at both ends, then twist at 4 to 6-inch intervals to make links. Alternate the direction of the twisting with each link, i.e, twist to the right to make the first link, then twist to the left on the second, and so forth. This will help keep the links from unwinding.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring a wide, deep pot of water to a gentle simmer. Using the tip of a sharp knife or a fondue fork, poke a few small holes in each sausage. Add links to simmering water and poach for 10-15 minutes, until cooked through. To avoid sausage blow-ups, don't let the water go above a simmer. Remove links and let cool, then refrigerate or freeze until needed.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To cook sausage, saute in over medium heat in a small amount of oil or clarified butter. Turn frequently to brown all sides, about 5-6 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Elaine Wu, Amy Cleary, Kelsie Kerr, Suzanne Drexhange, owner of Bartavelle, Dana Velden, Sean Timberlake, Jeanne TK, Karen Solomon, Lisa Kramer.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "What's the first rule of Meat Club? Never make meat alone, not when you can measure, mix, grind, and stuff together with friends. Stephanie Rosenbaum hangs out with a group of sociable DIY'ers determined to beat the fear of meat-ing with a 30-pound batch of French boudin blanc. ",
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"description": "What's the first rule of Meat Club? Never make meat alone, not when you can measure, mix, grind, and stuff together with friends. Stephanie Rosenbaum hangs out with a group of sociable DIY'ers determined to beat the fear of meat-ing with a 30-pound batch of French boudin blanc. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78756\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/featuresausage.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/featuresausage.jpg\" alt=\"Finished raw sausage. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78756\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Finished raw sausage. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Don't make sausage--or pâté, or rillettes--alone. That's the mission statement of the Meat Club, an informal group of meat-project enthusiasts who have been gathering these past few months to tackle DIY kitchen projects that might daunt the solo cook. This past Sunday, eleven members of the ad hoc club met in North Oakland to tackle French \u003cem>boudin blanc,\u003c/em> a suave, emulsified sausage made from pork, chicken, and cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By 5 p.m., host Lisa Kramer was setting up the four stand mixers that members--a loose affiliation of friends and friends-of-friends, roughly divided between food-industry professionals and accomplished hobbyists--have hauled over. Suzanne Drexhage, owner of Berkeley's cafe-wine bar \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/01/23/bartavelle-coffee-and-wine-bar/\">Bartavelle\u003c/a>, and Kelsie Kerr, who worked as a chef at both \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.caferouge.net\">Cafe Rouge\u003c/a> and co-authored both volumes of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0307336794/kqedorg-20\">\u003cem>The Art of Simple Food\u003c/em>\u003c/a> with Alice Waters, were calmly chopping some 15 pounds of boneless pork shoulder, sourced from Cafe Rouge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78753\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/seangrinding4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/seangrinding4.jpg\" alt=\"Sean grinds the meat. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78753\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sean grinds the meat. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sean Timberlake of \u003ca href=\"http://www.punkdomestics.com/\">Punk Domestics\u003c/a> arrived, his apron emblazoned \"Go Pig or Go Home.\" With him was Karen Solomon, author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580089585/kqedorg-20\">\u003cem>Jam It, Pickle It, Cure It\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, her own apron a frilled, hot-pink number inscribed with a not-exactly-family-friendly word (let's just say it rhymes with \u003cem>stitch\u003c/em>). Aprons are definitely the accessory of the moment, since by the end of the night we all will be well greased with what Drexhage dubs \"pork shmoo.\" Previous Meat Clubbers still remember the \"lard explosion\" of the first meeting, when the group made \u003cem>ciccolli,\u003c/em> a slow-cooked, spreadable pork terrine from Emilia-Romagna that involves intense rendering.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78752\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/salting-meat2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/salting-meat2.jpg\" alt=\"Salting the meat. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78752\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salting the meat. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Spread out wherever there's room for a pan or a cutting board, the eleven of us each found a job: measuring and grinding spices; cubing chicken breast; slicing creamy white pork fat into strips; trimming the crusts off a loaf of white, fine-crumbed pain de mie; sauteing sliced onions in butter. The meats and fat are mixed, salted, and spiced, then spread out in hotel pans and popped into the fridge to chill before grinding. This is something I learned in my time making large quantities of sausage in the kitchen at Sausalito's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/09/makin-bacon-at-the-headlands/\">Headlands Center for the Arts\u003c/a>: keep every part of your sausage-makings, from the meat to the grinder blades, as cold as possible. As with pie crust, you want to keep your fat firm, not softening into paste. Cold meat and cold fat grinds smooth and clean, without clogging.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's especially important on the large scale we're working with tonight. We've decided on roughly three pounds of finished sausage per person, which means starting out with some 30 pounds of meat, which is a lot to process in a home kitchen without trough-sized mixing bowls or a walk-in refrigerator. So, we filled the largest roasting pans we could find with our raw meat mixture and headed to the dining room to snack while they chilled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, the break table was a feast of DIY. I bring the test batch of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/02/24/get-your-beignets-ready-for-mardi-gras/\" target=\"_blank\">beignets \u003c/a>I've just made, with a jar of crab apple syrup (otherwise known as jelly that never set, but who needs to know?) for drizzling. Sean sets up his new signature treat, the Mason jar relish tray. Each mini-jar is filled with homemade preserved, fermented, or pickled treats, from kimchee and \u003cem>hoshigaki\u003c/em> (Japanese-style dried persimmons) to bread-and-butter pickles, pickled turnips and sweet peppers in oil. Elaine added a jar of her homemade butter; Lisa provided bread and a creamy round of Cowgirl Creamery's Mt Tam cheese. Amy's Mendocino \u003ca href=\"http://www.navarrowine.com/\">Navarro\u003c/a> Chardonnay and my bottle of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/12/02/san-francisco-mead-company-whats-the-buzz/\">SF Mead Company\u003c/a>'s \"California Gold\" are kept back for later, when we've finished with the heavy machinery. If you haven't seen a deluxe KitchenAid whapping around six pounds of sausage mix, well, it's a sight that warrants sobriety.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78750\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/mixed-meats3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/mixed-meats3.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken, pork and pork fat ready for grinding. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78750\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chicken, pork and pork fat ready for grinding. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Back in the meat room, we fed the chunks of meat and fat into the hoppers, watching the coarse-ground ground meat snake down to the bowls, dumping each heaping bowl into empty roasting pans as they filled. Then, we changed out the grinding disks from coarse to fine, and ground the sausage again. Kelsie suggested sending the mixture through the fine disks one more time for ultimate smoothness, but faced with 30 pounds of meat, and both emulsifying and stuffing still ahead of us, we demurred (although you certainly can).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The meat got divided into five- and six-pound piles, according to the size of our assorted mixers, then paddle-slapped in batches until fluffy and smooth. Then, it went back into the fridge to chill, while we started rolling hog casings like stockings or, yes, condoms, onto the cone-shaped stuffing attachments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hog casings are cleaned, empty hog intestines, usually sold frozen or packed in salt. If you get them salt packed, you'll need to soak them until they're re-hydrated. I ask the group where they'd source hog casings; they suggest \u003ca href=\"http://www.avedanos.com\">Avedano's\u003c/a>, Cafe Rouge, \u003ca href=\"http://www.goldengatemeatcompany.com/\">Golden Gate Meats\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/vbfoods\">Ver Brugge Foods\u003c/a>. (I'd add in \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinameats.com/\">Marina Meats\u003c/a>.) It's a good idea to call ahead, since it's an item that may need to be special ordered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78751\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/mixing5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/mixing5.jpg\" alt=\"Mixing the sausage with cream and bread crumbs. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78751\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mixing the sausage with cream and bread crumbs. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Into the home stretch, now: Time to stuff! This was a duet for four hands: one to feed the hopper, one to manage the coiling sausage as it filled. By this point, the mixture was thick and sticky, with a tendency to suction itself into the hopper. It has be pushed down firmly, in long up-and-all-the-way-down strokes. My partner in pork-shmoo, Jeanne Brophy, discovers a trick that keeps the mixture from forming a vacuum that sucks the casing back into the tube: she makes a ring with her thumb and forefinger and \"cleans\" the sausage mix from the pusher as she goes, pushing the meat back down into the hopper as she pulls the pusher up. Don't overfill the casing as you go; this is a soft filling that will expand as it cooks. It's hypnotically satisfying, watching the filled coils snake down. We tied off the ends, like tying a balloon, and brought them over to where Sean was swiftly twisting them into links, twisting in alternate directions to keep the links from untwisting themselves in the car and BART rides home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78754\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/stuffing6.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/stuffing6.jpg\" alt=\"Stuffing the sausages. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78754\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stuffing the sausages. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It will be after 11 p.m. by the time I finally made it back to Bernal Heights, shmoo on my shoes and some three-plus pounds of sausage ready for poaching, as elegant as sausage can be. But first, with wine and mead, we toasted another project completed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Boudin Blanc\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060175834/kqedorg-20\">'The Chez Panisse Cafe Cookbook'\u003c/a> by Alice Waters.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The key to stress-free sausage making is keeping everything--the meat, the bowls, the paddles, and especially the grinding attachments--very cold. This keeps the fat in the sausage mix from softening into a smeary paste, which can clog the grinder and stuffer. Chill your bowls, paddles, grinding and stuffing attachments in the freezer for at least an hour before you start. Allow extra time to chill your meat mixture before grinding and before stuffing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 3 pounds of finished sausage\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 1/4 lb boneless pork shoulder,\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 lb skinless chicken breast\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 lb pork fat\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 tbsp sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Spice mix:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 bay leaf\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 1/2 tsp black peppercorns\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 allspice berry\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp caraway seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp coriander seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp dried thyme\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 tsp cayenne\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 tsp freshly grated nutmeg\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003c/li>\u003cli>1 medium onion, peeled and sliced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups heavy cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tsp fresh thyme leaves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Hog casings, soaked and rinsed\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Chop pork shoulder into rough cubes, removing any stringy, gristly bits or glands as you go. Do the same for the chicken and pork fat. Mix pork, chicken, and fat together, sprinkling with the salt and mixing well. Chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While meat mixture is chilling, grind the spices to a fine powder in a spice grinder. Measure 1 tablespoon of the powdered spices and mix into meat.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Using the coarse disk on your grinder, grind the pork and chicken mixture. Return the mixture to the fridge while you replace the coarse disk on your grinder with the fine one. Grind the mixture through the fine disk.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli> In a saute pan over medium heat, melt butter. Saute onions, stirring frequently, until soft and translucent. Remove from heat and let cool.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix bread crumbs into cream and let soak for a few minutes. Mix ground meat with onions, cream mixture and thyme. Scoop meat mixture into the chilled bowl of a stand mixer. Mix with the paddle attachment on high speed for 5-7 minutes, until mixture is fluffy and smooth.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring a small pot of water to a simmer. Add a tablespoon of meat mixture. Poach for a few minutes, until cooked through. Drain and let cool for a few minutes. Taste for seasoning, and add additional salt and/or spice mix to the meat mixture as needed. If desired, poach another test spoonful after seasoning to taste again.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Return mixture to the fridge to chill for another 15-20 minutes. Put stuffing attachment onto stand mixer. Roll hog casing onto stuffer. Feed meat mixture into hopper, pushing with a wooden or plastic pusher. Fill casing loosely. Tie off at both ends, then twist at 4 to 6-inch intervals to make links. Alternate the direction of the twisting with each link, i.e, twist to the right to make the first link, then twist to the left on the second, and so forth. This will help keep the links from unwinding.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring a wide, deep pot of water to a gentle simmer. Using the tip of a sharp knife or a fondue fork, poke a few small holes in each sausage. Add links to simmering water and poach for 10-15 minutes, until cooked through. To avoid sausage blow-ups, don't let the water go above a simmer. Remove links and let cool, then refrigerate or freeze until needed.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To cook sausage, saute in over medium heat in a small amount of oil or clarified butter. Turn frequently to brown all sides, about 5-6 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Elaine Wu, Amy Cleary, Kelsie Kerr, Suzanne Drexhange, owner of Bartavelle, Dana Velden, Sean Timberlake, Jeanne TK, Karen Solomon, Lisa Kramer.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "DIY Fruit Roll-Ups: Making a Grown-Up Version of Childhood Nostalgia",
"title": "DIY Fruit Roll-Ups: Making a Grown-Up Version of Childhood Nostalgia",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78694\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/finished-mango.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78694\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/finished-mango.jpg\" alt=\"Making your own fruit roll-ups allows for plenty of personal touches. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"625\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Making your own fruit roll-ups allows for plenty of personal touches. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was not one of those “lucky” kids who got to feast on fruit roll-ups at lunch every day. We’d get the brightly colored, sticky sweet treats every once in a while (the rainbow colored rolls with the punch-out animal shapes that would stick to the roof of my mouth were my favorite), but I was far more likely to have one of those dreaded fruit leather bars from the natural grocery for dessert. Of course, this meant I coveted the other sugar-filled lunch boxes that surrounded me at my elementary school table and still think back fondly on fruit roll-ups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m not sure that I would ever want to go so far as to attempt to re-create the exact flavor of those childhood treats; my taste skews far more savory than sweet these days. But it’s easy to adapt the basic premise of the roll-up (dehydrated fruit puree) to suit just about anyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78695\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ingredients1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78695\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ingredients1.jpg\" alt=\"I like to pair sweet mangoes with herbaceous cilantro and strawberries with spicy black pepper. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"663\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I like to pair sweet mangoes with herbaceous cilantro and strawberries with spicy black pepper. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The best place to start is by using super-ripe fruit. If your grocery store has a sale section for produce, check there first. You don’t want to buy rotten fruit, of course, but the riper the fruit is to start, the sweeter it will be. Super-ripe fruit will need little, if any, additional sweetener. I like to be creative with my fruit roll-ups and add complementary herbs and spices to the fruit. I also like to make a couple of batches of roll-ups at a time to maximize my oven space. For these roll-ups, I’m pairing mango with fresh cilantro (and Sichuan peppercorns, not pictured) and strawberries with freshly ground black pepper. If you’re making these for kids or picky eaters, feel free to use milder flavorings like vanilla, or to skip the flavorings altogether.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78696\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/strawberries-in-processor.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78696\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/strawberries-in-processor.jpg\" alt=\"Use a food processor to turn the cut up fruit into a smooth puree. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Use a food processor to turn the cut up fruit into a smooth puree. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I like to use about a pound of chopped fruit per batch of fruit roll-ups. This means that for fruits with thick skin and a large pit, like mangos, I need to buy more like 1-and-1/2 pounds of whole fruit. If shopping in the aforementioned sale section, I’ll pick out a bit extra to account for the inevitable trimming of bruised or molded fruit. With berries or other fruit with little-to-no trim, I’ll pick out 1 pound to begin with. Once the fruit is chopped, I put it all in the bowl of a food processor and let it run until the fruit is completely pureed. (A blender will work too, as long as the fruit is soft).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78697\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/adding-honey.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78697\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/adding-honey.jpg\" alt=\"I like to use honey as a sweetener for my fruit roll ups, but you can use regular ‘ol sugar or maple syrup if you’d prefer. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"703\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I like to use honey as a sweetener for my fruit roll ups, but you can use regular ‘ol sugar or maple syrup if you’d prefer. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At this point, I’ll taste the puree and see if it needs any sweetener. I like to use honey instead of sugar because I like the flavor, but you can use any sweetener you’d like. The mango puree didn’t need any honey, but the strawberry did. I added a teaspoon or two, until I liked the level of sweetness. It’s important to remember, though, that the sweetness will concentrate in the oven. Don’t go too crazy here. I also like to add a pinch of salt to the puree to bring out the flavor of the fruit. You could also add lemon juice, if you’d like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78698\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mango-pureed-and-cooked.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78698\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mango-pureed-and-cooked.jpg\" alt=\"I like to reduce the fruit puree on the stove before dehydrating it in the oven. Here, I’ve reduced the mango puree from a thin, smoothie-like consistency (on the left), to a puree that looks more like applesauce (on the right). Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"625\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I like to reduce the fruit puree on the stove before dehydrating it in the oven. Here, I’ve reduced the mango puree from a thin, smoothie-like consistency (on the left), to a puree that looks more like applesauce (on the right). Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next, I like to reduce the puree a bit on the stove before popping it into the oven. This step is not really necessary, but it does cut down on the amount of time you’ll need to monitor the oven. My oven is pretty finicky and requires attention no matter what I’m cooking, so I like to reduce the amount of time I’m dehydrating the fruit as much as possible. I simmer the puree for 10 to 20 minutes, or until it has noticeably thickened and looks more like applesauce than soup. Make sure to stir frequently as the sugars in the puree will want to scorch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78699\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/adding-black-pepper.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78699\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/adding-black-pepper.jpg\" alt=\"Spices like black pepper can be added directly to the reduced puree. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"633\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spices like black pepper can be added directly to the reduced puree. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once the fruit is reduced, I like to add any additional flavorings. I save this step for the last minute so that their intensity remains strong. Fresh herbs, like cilantro, work better when they’re steeped in the warm puree and then removed before dehydrating. Spices, like black pepper, will go into the puree and stay there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now flavored, I spread the thickened puree into a thin rectangle on a parchment-lined baking sheet. I like to use the flatter, pre-cut sheets of parchment because they, well, lay flat without assistance. (A Silpat liner is the best pan liner to use here, as it doesn’t wrinkle in the oven. But Silpats are way more expensive than parchment, so don’t splurge if you don’t think you’ll use it again. If you’ve already got one: Great! Use it!)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78700\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/spreading-mango.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78700\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/spreading-mango.jpg\" alt=\"Spread the reduced puree into a large, thin rectangle using a large offset pastry spatula. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"664\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spread the reduced puree into a large, thin rectangle using a large offset pastry spatula. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The best tool for spreading is a large offset pastry spatula, but you can use a flexible rubber spatula if that’s what you’ve got on hand. Spread the puree as evenly as possible, aiming for around 1/8 inch in thickness. You can go thicker if you’d like, but the puree will take longer to dry out. If you go too much thinner than 1/8 inch, the resulting fruit roll-ups will be on the brittle side. (It’s also much easier to burn a super-thin sheet of puree than a thicker one.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To dehydrate the roll-ups, you can use an oven or a dehydrator. Ovens are more common, but more finicky than a dehydrator. If you own a dehydrator, you already know how to use it, so go forth and dehydrate away! If you’re using an oven, set the temperature to the lowest possible setting. You’re aiming for a temperature between 175 and 200 degrees. My oven has vague settings, so I turn it to somewhere on the dial less than 200 but not totally off. An oven thermometer will be your friend here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78701\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/cooked-mango.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78701\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/cooked-mango.jpg\" alt=\"You’ll know the puree is fully dehydrated when it is no longer sticky and can be easily peeled back from the parchment paper. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">You’ll know the puree is fully dehydrated when it is no longer sticky and can be easily peeled back from the parchment paper. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Place the baking sheet of fruit puree in the oven and let it bake until it has transformed into flexible fruit roll-up material. It will no longer be wet and sticky, and should easily peel off of the parchment paper. This step will take anywhere from 4 to 6, or even more, hours, depending on the oven temperature, the thickness of the puree, and the amount of water still left in the fruit. My sheet of mango fruit roll-ups took 4 hours and my sheet of strawberry took close to 6 hours. Periodically check on the oven’s temperature, fiddling with the dial or opening and closing the oven door to keep the temperature in the target range.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, let the dehydrated fruit roll-ups cool to room temperature before cutting them into whatever shapes you’d like. I chose to go with easy, fruit-by-the-foot style shapes here. I used a pizza wheel to cut the fruit sheets into long strips, placed the strips on clean wax paper, and rolled ‘em up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78702\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/rolling-up-mango.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78702\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/rolling-up-mango.jpg\" alt=\"Roll the cooled and cut fruit roll-ups on a sheet of waxed paper. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"655\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roll the cooled and cut fruit roll-ups on a sheet of waxed paper. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: DIY Fruit Roll-Ups\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 8 to 12 roll-ups\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note: If you’d like to double the recipe to make two sheet trays of fruit roll-ups, divide the puree into two saucepans in step 3 to decrease the time needed to reduce the puree.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1-1 1/2 pounds ripe fruit (like strawberries, mangos, or apples)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Honey, to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Salt, to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Herbs, spices, and seasonings of choice, to taste (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Equipment:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Baking sheet\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Parchment paper or Silpat liner\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Food processor or blender\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Offset or thin rubber spatula\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Oven thermometer\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pizza cutter, pastry wheel, or scissors\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Optional: Dehydrator\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a Silpat liner. Set aside. To prepare the fruit, peel, hull, core, and/or de-pit the fruit so that you’re only working with the fruit’s flesh. Chop the fruit into large chunks and weigh the pieces. You want around 1 pound of chopped fruit.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place fruit in the bowl of a food processor, and process until fruit has turned into a smooth puree. Taste the puree and season it with honey and salt as needed, keeping in mind that the sweetness will increase as the fruit dehydrates.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Transfer the puree to a medium-to-large saucepan. Bring the puree to a low simmer over medium heat and cook, stirring frequently to prevent scorching, until the puree has noticeably thickened. Depending on the water content of the puree, this step will take 10 to 20 minutes. You’re looking for a texture more like applesauce than jam; you still want it to be easily spreadable.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Once the puree has cooked down, add flavorings. For mango, I like to add a handful of cilantro leaves, which I steep for 10 minutes and then remove, as well as a few pinches of ground Sichuan peppercorn. For strawberry, I like to add a generous grinding of black pepper. Cinnamon and nutmeg would pair well with many different fruits, as would vanilla bean and cardamom.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Meanwhile, preheat the oven to the lowest heat it will hold, ideally between 175 and 200 degrees. If you own a dehydrator, you can use it instead of the oven.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While the reduced puree is still warm, pour the puree onto the prepared baking sheet. Using an offset spatula, spread the puree into a large rectangle about 1/8-inch thick. The thinner the rectangle, the faster the fruit will dry and the stiffer the resulting roll-up will be. Try and spread the puree as evenly as possible (this will be easier or harder depending on the fruit).\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place the baking sheet in the oven and let the puree bake until it is longer be sticky and should peel easily off of the parchment paper, at least 4 to 6 hours. You may need to check on the oven periodically to monitor the temperature. If the oven is getting too hot, open the oven door occasionally to let it cool off. Take this time to rotate the baking sheet to ensure that the fruit is baking evenly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Once the puree has dehydrated, remove the baking sheet from the oven and let it cool to room temperature. Using a pizza cutter or pastry wheel, slice the fruit into strips of whatever dimensions you’d like. I like to pull the strips off of the parchment and re-roll them into cylinders using wax paper, but they can also be rolled up in the parchment paper used for baking. Store the fruit roll-ups in an airtight container for up to a week.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Fruit roll-ups can be so much more than the sweet, sticky sugar-bombs of childhood when they're made at home. Kate Williams will show you how to get creative with your fruit snacks.",
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"title": "DIY Fruit Roll-Ups: Making a Grown-Up Version of Childhood Nostalgia | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78694\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/finished-mango.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78694\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/finished-mango.jpg\" alt=\"Making your own fruit roll-ups allows for plenty of personal touches. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"625\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Making your own fruit roll-ups allows for plenty of personal touches. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was not one of those “lucky” kids who got to feast on fruit roll-ups at lunch every day. We’d get the brightly colored, sticky sweet treats every once in a while (the rainbow colored rolls with the punch-out animal shapes that would stick to the roof of my mouth were my favorite), but I was far more likely to have one of those dreaded fruit leather bars from the natural grocery for dessert. Of course, this meant I coveted the other sugar-filled lunch boxes that surrounded me at my elementary school table and still think back fondly on fruit roll-ups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m not sure that I would ever want to go so far as to attempt to re-create the exact flavor of those childhood treats; my taste skews far more savory than sweet these days. But it’s easy to adapt the basic premise of the roll-up (dehydrated fruit puree) to suit just about anyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78695\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ingredients1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78695\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ingredients1.jpg\" alt=\"I like to pair sweet mangoes with herbaceous cilantro and strawberries with spicy black pepper. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"663\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I like to pair sweet mangoes with herbaceous cilantro and strawberries with spicy black pepper. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The best place to start is by using super-ripe fruit. If your grocery store has a sale section for produce, check there first. You don’t want to buy rotten fruit, of course, but the riper the fruit is to start, the sweeter it will be. Super-ripe fruit will need little, if any, additional sweetener. I like to be creative with my fruit roll-ups and add complementary herbs and spices to the fruit. I also like to make a couple of batches of roll-ups at a time to maximize my oven space. For these roll-ups, I’m pairing mango with fresh cilantro (and Sichuan peppercorns, not pictured) and strawberries with freshly ground black pepper. If you’re making these for kids or picky eaters, feel free to use milder flavorings like vanilla, or to skip the flavorings altogether.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78696\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/strawberries-in-processor.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78696\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/strawberries-in-processor.jpg\" alt=\"Use a food processor to turn the cut up fruit into a smooth puree. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Use a food processor to turn the cut up fruit into a smooth puree. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I like to use about a pound of chopped fruit per batch of fruit roll-ups. This means that for fruits with thick skin and a large pit, like mangos, I need to buy more like 1-and-1/2 pounds of whole fruit. If shopping in the aforementioned sale section, I’ll pick out a bit extra to account for the inevitable trimming of bruised or molded fruit. With berries or other fruit with little-to-no trim, I’ll pick out 1 pound to begin with. Once the fruit is chopped, I put it all in the bowl of a food processor and let it run until the fruit is completely pureed. (A blender will work too, as long as the fruit is soft).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78697\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/adding-honey.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78697\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/adding-honey.jpg\" alt=\"I like to use honey as a sweetener for my fruit roll ups, but you can use regular ‘ol sugar or maple syrup if you’d prefer. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"703\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I like to use honey as a sweetener for my fruit roll ups, but you can use regular ‘ol sugar or maple syrup if you’d prefer. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At this point, I’ll taste the puree and see if it needs any sweetener. I like to use honey instead of sugar because I like the flavor, but you can use any sweetener you’d like. The mango puree didn’t need any honey, but the strawberry did. I added a teaspoon or two, until I liked the level of sweetness. It’s important to remember, though, that the sweetness will concentrate in the oven. Don’t go too crazy here. I also like to add a pinch of salt to the puree to bring out the flavor of the fruit. You could also add lemon juice, if you’d like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78698\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mango-pureed-and-cooked.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78698\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mango-pureed-and-cooked.jpg\" alt=\"I like to reduce the fruit puree on the stove before dehydrating it in the oven. Here, I’ve reduced the mango puree from a thin, smoothie-like consistency (on the left), to a puree that looks more like applesauce (on the right). Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"625\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I like to reduce the fruit puree on the stove before dehydrating it in the oven. Here, I’ve reduced the mango puree from a thin, smoothie-like consistency (on the left), to a puree that looks more like applesauce (on the right). Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next, I like to reduce the puree a bit on the stove before popping it into the oven. This step is not really necessary, but it does cut down on the amount of time you’ll need to monitor the oven. My oven is pretty finicky and requires attention no matter what I’m cooking, so I like to reduce the amount of time I’m dehydrating the fruit as much as possible. I simmer the puree for 10 to 20 minutes, or until it has noticeably thickened and looks more like applesauce than soup. Make sure to stir frequently as the sugars in the puree will want to scorch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78699\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/adding-black-pepper.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78699\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/adding-black-pepper.jpg\" alt=\"Spices like black pepper can be added directly to the reduced puree. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"633\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spices like black pepper can be added directly to the reduced puree. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once the fruit is reduced, I like to add any additional flavorings. I save this step for the last minute so that their intensity remains strong. Fresh herbs, like cilantro, work better when they’re steeped in the warm puree and then removed before dehydrating. Spices, like black pepper, will go into the puree and stay there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now flavored, I spread the thickened puree into a thin rectangle on a parchment-lined baking sheet. I like to use the flatter, pre-cut sheets of parchment because they, well, lay flat without assistance. (A Silpat liner is the best pan liner to use here, as it doesn’t wrinkle in the oven. But Silpats are way more expensive than parchment, so don’t splurge if you don’t think you’ll use it again. If you’ve already got one: Great! Use it!)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78700\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/spreading-mango.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78700\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/spreading-mango.jpg\" alt=\"Spread the reduced puree into a large, thin rectangle using a large offset pastry spatula. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"664\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spread the reduced puree into a large, thin rectangle using a large offset pastry spatula. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The best tool for spreading is a large offset pastry spatula, but you can use a flexible rubber spatula if that’s what you’ve got on hand. Spread the puree as evenly as possible, aiming for around 1/8 inch in thickness. You can go thicker if you’d like, but the puree will take longer to dry out. If you go too much thinner than 1/8 inch, the resulting fruit roll-ups will be on the brittle side. (It’s also much easier to burn a super-thin sheet of puree than a thicker one.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To dehydrate the roll-ups, you can use an oven or a dehydrator. Ovens are more common, but more finicky than a dehydrator. If you own a dehydrator, you already know how to use it, so go forth and dehydrate away! If you’re using an oven, set the temperature to the lowest possible setting. You’re aiming for a temperature between 175 and 200 degrees. My oven has vague settings, so I turn it to somewhere on the dial less than 200 but not totally off. An oven thermometer will be your friend here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78701\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/cooked-mango.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78701\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/cooked-mango.jpg\" alt=\"You’ll know the puree is fully dehydrated when it is no longer sticky and can be easily peeled back from the parchment paper. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">You’ll know the puree is fully dehydrated when it is no longer sticky and can be easily peeled back from the parchment paper. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Place the baking sheet of fruit puree in the oven and let it bake until it has transformed into flexible fruit roll-up material. It will no longer be wet and sticky, and should easily peel off of the parchment paper. This step will take anywhere from 4 to 6, or even more, hours, depending on the oven temperature, the thickness of the puree, and the amount of water still left in the fruit. My sheet of mango fruit roll-ups took 4 hours and my sheet of strawberry took close to 6 hours. Periodically check on the oven’s temperature, fiddling with the dial or opening and closing the oven door to keep the temperature in the target range.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, let the dehydrated fruit roll-ups cool to room temperature before cutting them into whatever shapes you’d like. I chose to go with easy, fruit-by-the-foot style shapes here. I used a pizza wheel to cut the fruit sheets into long strips, placed the strips on clean wax paper, and rolled ‘em up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78702\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/rolling-up-mango.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78702\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/rolling-up-mango.jpg\" alt=\"Roll the cooled and cut fruit roll-ups on a sheet of waxed paper. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"655\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roll the cooled and cut fruit roll-ups on a sheet of waxed paper. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: DIY Fruit Roll-Ups\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 8 to 12 roll-ups\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note: If you’d like to double the recipe to make two sheet trays of fruit roll-ups, divide the puree into two saucepans in step 3 to decrease the time needed to reduce the puree.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1-1 1/2 pounds ripe fruit (like strawberries, mangos, or apples)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Honey, to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Salt, to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Herbs, spices, and seasonings of choice, to taste (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Equipment:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Baking sheet\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Parchment paper or Silpat liner\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Food processor or blender\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Offset or thin rubber spatula\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Oven thermometer\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pizza cutter, pastry wheel, or scissors\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Optional: Dehydrator\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a Silpat liner. Set aside. To prepare the fruit, peel, hull, core, and/or de-pit the fruit so that you’re only working with the fruit’s flesh. Chop the fruit into large chunks and weigh the pieces. You want around 1 pound of chopped fruit.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place fruit in the bowl of a food processor, and process until fruit has turned into a smooth puree. Taste the puree and season it with honey and salt as needed, keeping in mind that the sweetness will increase as the fruit dehydrates.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Transfer the puree to a medium-to-large saucepan. Bring the puree to a low simmer over medium heat and cook, stirring frequently to prevent scorching, until the puree has noticeably thickened. Depending on the water content of the puree, this step will take 10 to 20 minutes. You’re looking for a texture more like applesauce than jam; you still want it to be easily spreadable.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Once the puree has cooked down, add flavorings. For mango, I like to add a handful of cilantro leaves, which I steep for 10 minutes and then remove, as well as a few pinches of ground Sichuan peppercorn. For strawberry, I like to add a generous grinding of black pepper. Cinnamon and nutmeg would pair well with many different fruits, as would vanilla bean and cardamom.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Meanwhile, preheat the oven to the lowest heat it will hold, ideally between 175 and 200 degrees. If you own a dehydrator, you can use it instead of the oven.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While the reduced puree is still warm, pour the puree onto the prepared baking sheet. Using an offset spatula, spread the puree into a large rectangle about 1/8-inch thick. The thinner the rectangle, the faster the fruit will dry and the stiffer the resulting roll-up will be. Try and spread the puree as evenly as possible (this will be easier or harder depending on the fruit).\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place the baking sheet in the oven and let the puree bake until it is longer be sticky and should peel easily off of the parchment paper, at least 4 to 6 hours. You may need to check on the oven periodically to monitor the temperature. If the oven is getting too hot, open the oven door occasionally to let it cool off. Take this time to rotate the baking sheet to ensure that the fruit is baking evenly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Once the puree has dehydrated, remove the baking sheet from the oven and let it cool to room temperature. Using a pizza cutter or pastry wheel, slice the fruit into strips of whatever dimensions you’d like. I like to pull the strips off of the parchment and re-roll them into cylinders using wax paper, but they can also be rolled up in the parchment paper used for baking. Store the fruit roll-ups in an airtight container for up to a week.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Fat Tuesday: The Many Different Doughnuts of Mardi Gras",
"title": "Fat Tuesday: The Many Different Doughnuts of Mardi Gras",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78636\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1606px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsmain_custom-f86530e52c1bce57498ff026f52c75ed0302f9f1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsmain_custom-f86530e52c1bce57498ff026f52c75ed0302f9f1.jpg\" alt=\"A Mardi Gras treat fit for a king. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1606\" height=\"980\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78636\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Mardi Gras treat fit for a king. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Emily Hilliard, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/02/26/282908382/fat-tuesday-the-many-different-doughnuts-of-mardi-gras\" target=\"_blank\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/26/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#paczki\">Paczki\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#fasnacht\">Fasnacht\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#beignets\">Beignets\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#cenci\">Cenci\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The history of doughnuts is intrinsically linked to the celebration of Mardi Gras. \"Fat Tuesday\" — the Christian day of revelry and indulgence before the austere season of Lent — features dough deep-fried in fat as its main staple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among the first foods to be deep-fried were Roman \u003cem>scriblita\u003c/em>, a precursor to today's doughnuts and fritters. Originating in the medieval era, most Christian European traditions have developed a version of fried dough for Shrove Tuesday (another name for the day before Lent starts). The rich treats presented a way to use up all of the butter, sugar and fat in the house prior to the self-denying diets of Lent. Traditionally it was an opportunity for indulgence, a day when, once a year, communities would go through the labor-intensive and expensive process of deep-frying in order to partake in a luxurious treat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Poland and Polish communities in the United States, such as in the Midwest, Fat Tuesday is given another name — \"Paczki Day,\" referring to the dense yet puffy jelly-filled doughnuts enjoyed on the occasion. \u003ca href=\"http://www.americanfoodroots.com/features/polish-paczki-the-midwests-last-fling-before-lent/\">\u003cem>Paczki\u003c/em>\u003c/a> were traditionally filled with rose hip jam or a stewed plum concoction called \u003cem>powidla\u003c/em>, though today they often contain a variety of different jams and custards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The history of colonization and immigration from the \"old world\" to the new can be traced through the evolution of doughnuts such as \u003cem>paczki\u003c/em>. These celebration foods were important, and were both preserved and altered as they interacted with new ingredients and other influences in their new homes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Portuguese \u003cem>malasadas\u003c/em>, also enjoyed on Shrove Tuesday, or \"Malasada Day,\" were another such confection. The raised doughnuts were brought to Hawaii by sugar plantation workers in the late 1800s. Though originally they had no holes or fillings, they have evolved there to include fillings with Hawaiian ingredients such as guava and coconut. They are also popular among Portuguese communities in New England.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The German take on pre-Lenten doughnuts are called \u003cem>fastnachts\u003c/em> (or \u003cem>fasnachts\u003c/em>), bearing the same name as the traditional Carnival celebration, which translates as \"fast night.\" The golden-brown yeasted treats, related to bismarks and berliners, are also found in Pennsylvania Dutch and Moravian enclaves in the United States. (In Maryland, the same doughnuts are called kinklings.) Traditional \u003cem>fastnachts\u003c/em> are fried in lard and, like \u003cem>malasadas,\u003c/em> do not have a hole or contain filling. The Pennsylvania Dutch version often includes mashed potatoes in the recipe, making a heartier and denser doughnut — something to stick to your ribs until the end of Lent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beignets are the most widely known Mardi Gras doughnut. The recipe for the light and eggy pillows of fried dough was brought to Louisiana when French Acadians were deported there in the 18th century. But there is another, lesser-known Carnival doughnut in New Orleans — \u003ca href=\"http://www.americanfoodroots.com/50-states/calas-and-beignets-both-in-new-orleans-to-party/\">calas\u003c/a>. Sweet, fried rice dumplings, calas originate from the West African enslaved people who were brought to the area in the late 1700s. The recipe was passed on among Catholic African-American families who served them at Mardi Gras and other celebrations, and they're making a comeback in New Orleans restaurants, where they're offered as both savory and sweet dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Italy has two pre-Lenten fried confections: Both \u003cem>castagnoles\u003c/em>, fried cake puffs soaked in liqueur, and \u003cem>cenci\u003c/em> (also called \u003cem>frappe\u003c/em>), crispy strips of fried pastry similar to funnel cake, are enjoyed during \u003cem>Carnevale\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As it goes with traditional recipes that have undergone many relocations, transitions and generations, there are many variations and not one definitive source for all of these varying Carnival delights. No matter which you chose, celebrate next Tuesday the way it's supposed to be — with a hearty helping of dough and fat.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"paczki\">\u003c/a>Paczki\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Polish paczki are dense yet puffy fruit-filled doughnuts that have become a Fat Tuesday mainstay in Polish communities across the United States. They're traditionally filled with rose hip jam or stewed plums, but you can use your favorite jam. This recipe is adapted from \u003c/em>Polish Heritage Cookery\u003cem> by Robert and Maria Stybel (Hippocrene, 2005).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78637\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1536px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutspaczki_custom-42eb4a41eddf1317c88322fab4bb0064dcde4c3a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutspaczki_custom-42eb4a41eddf1317c88322fab4bb0064dcde4c3a.jpg\" alt=\"Paczki. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1536\" height=\"1023\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78637\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paczki. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes approximately 2 dozen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 packets active dry yeast\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup whole milk, lukewarm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for rolling\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon white sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 large egg yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2/3 cup powdered sugar, plus more for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons rum\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 stick salted butter, melted and lukewarm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Canola oil for frying (or lard for a more traditional paczki)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jam for filling\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, dissolve yeast in lukewarm milk. Sift in 1 cup of the flour and the white sugar. Whisk together, cover and let stand in a warm place to let rise, 5 to 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using a stand mixer, or whisk and large bowl, beat the egg yolks with powdered sugar and vanilla until fluffy. In a large bowl, sift remaining flour, add yeast mixture, egg mixture and rum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Knead dough until it is smooth and glossy. Return to the bowl and mix in melted butter and continue to knead until dough no longer clings to the hands and bowl and air bubbles begin to appear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover bowl with cloth and let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 1 hour. Punch dough down and let it rise again, about 45 minutes. Transfer dough to a floured surface, and roll out about 1/2-inch thick. With a biscuit cutter, cut into rounds. Place on a baking sheet covered with parchment paper and cover with a cloth while you heat the oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour oil into a deep, heavy saucepan with high sides, until about 3 inches deep. Bring to 360 to 375 degrees F over medium heat. Working in batches, fry paczki until puffed and golden brown, about 2 minutes on each side. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and let cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once cool, insert a small hole into the side of the doughnut and fill with jam using a pastry bag. Dust with powdered sugar and eat fresh.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"fasnacht\">\u003c/a>Fasnacht (Or Fastnacht)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Fastnachts are yeasted doughnuts of German descent that bear the same name as the traditional pre-Lenten celebration, which translates as \"fast night.\" They typically have no hole or filling and are dusted with powdered sugar. This recipe, like many Pennsylvania Dutch recipes for fasnacht, uses powdered sugar. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78638\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1536px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsfasnacht_enl-2e4a25232d0654a41291aacecc9cda63c12b4136.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsfasnacht_enl-2e4a25232d0654a41291aacecc9cda63c12b4136.jpg\" alt=\"Fasnacht. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1536\" height=\"1023\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78638\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fasnacht. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes approximately 2 dozen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 packet active dry yeast\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup whole milk, lukewarm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup sugar, plus a pinch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup mashed potatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large egg, beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Canola oil for frying (or traditionally, lard)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Powdered sugar, for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm milk, add a pinch of sugar and whisk together. Set aside in a warm place to rise, 5 to 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl or in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine flour, mashed potatoes, 1/2 cup sugar and salt. Add the yeast mixture, butter and beaten egg. Mix together until combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turn the dough out on a floured surface and knead until the dough is elastic and not sticky, about 3 to 4 minutes. Roll out dough about 1/2-inch thick and cut into squares (a round biscuit cutter is also OK, though squares are traditional).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the cut doughnuts on a floured cookie sheet, cover with a cloth, and let rise 30 to 40 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, in a deep, heavy saucepan with high sides, pour oil about 3 inches deep. Bring to 360-375 degrees F over medium heat. Working in batches, fry fasnacht until puffed and golden brown, about 2 minutes on each side. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and let cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once cool, dust with powdered sugar and serve warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"beignets\">\u003c/a>Beignets\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Beignets are the classic pillowy, fried dough confections traditionally eaten at French Mardi Gras celebrations and now ubiquitous in Louisiana and other areas of the South. I recommend making the dough the night before so you can fry and eat them fresh first thing the next morning. This recipe is adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://whatscookingamerica.net/History/BeignetsHistory.htm\">What's Cooking America\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78639\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1539px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsbeignets_custom-fa9cf533a0937def36e01073c658044821c6baef.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsbeignets_custom-fa9cf533a0937def36e01073c658044821c6baef.jpg\" alt=\"Beignets. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1539\" height=\"1022\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78639\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beignets. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 18 to 24 beignets\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup lukewarm water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 teaspoons active dry yeast\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup white sugar, plus a pinch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large egg, beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup evaporated milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vegetable oil for deep-frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Powdered sugar for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, place water, yeast and pinch of sugar. Whisk together and let sit to dissolve yeast, 5 to 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl or bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine flour, 1/4 cup sugar and salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add yeast mixture and stir until incorporated. Add egg, butter and evaporated milk and mix until well combined and dough is smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove dough from bowl and roll out onto a lightly oiled surface. Form dough into a ball and place in a lightly greased bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled, 3 to 4 hours or overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once chilled, remove dough from the refrigerator and roll out on a lightly floured surface about 1/2-inch thick. Cut into squares and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover with a cloth and set aside while you heat the oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a deep heavy saucepan with high sides, heat 3 inches of oil to 360-375 degrees F. Working in batches, fry the beignets for 2 minutes on each side, until puffed and golden brown. Using a wire skimmer or slotted spatula, transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Transfer to a baking sheet and let cool completely. Dust with powdered sugar and serve warm or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cenci\">\u003c/a>Cenci\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Different from the other recipes featured here, Italian \u003c/em>cenci\u003cem> (literally, \"rags\") are strips of fried pastry that are said to have been made from leftover scraps of dough. They are known by different names across Italy and are akin to elephant ears or funnel cake in the United States. This recipe is adapted from \u003c/em>Cucina Povera: Tuscan Peasant Cooking\u003cem> by Pamela Sheldon Johns (Andrews McMeel, 2011).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78640\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1592px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutscenci_custom-6cc92f7d6c3e1bc704dfbe4774e2016216e23c57.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutscenci_custom-6cc92f7d6c3e1bc704dfbe4774e2016216e23c57.jpg\" alt=\"Cenci. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1592\" height=\"988\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78640\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cenci. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 3 dozen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup white sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup sparkling water, dry white wine or vin santo\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grated zest of 1 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vegetable oil for deep-frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Powdered sugar for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl or bowl of a stand mixer, combine the sugar, eggs and butter. Beat with a wooden spoon or stand mixer until creamy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stir in the sparkling water or wine, lemon zest and salt. Stir in the flour, blending until well-combined and dough is stiff, though sticky. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out to a thickness of 1/8 inch. Using a fluted pastry wheel, cut the dough into 1-by-3-inch strips. Make a cut down the center of each strip, leaving the ends attached.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a deep heavy saucepan with high sides, heat 3 inches of oil to 360-375 degrees F. Working in batches, fry the pastry for 3 to 4 minutes, or until golden. Using a wire skimmer or slotted spatula, transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Transfer to a baking sheet and let cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dust with powdered sugar and serve warm or at room temperature. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>About the Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Emily Hilliard is a folklorist and writer living in Washington, D.C. She writes the pie blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.nothinginthehouse.com/\">Nothing-in-the-House\u003c/a> and recently released the cookbook \u003ca href=\"http://www.etsy.com/listing/113875269/pie-a-hand-drawn-almanac\">PIE. A Hand Drawn Almanac\u003c/a> with illustrator \u003ca href=\"http://www.elizabethgraeber.com/\">Elizabeth Graeber\u003c/a>. Find more of Emily's work on \u003ca href=\"http://emilyehilliard.com/\">her website\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78636\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1606px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsmain_custom-f86530e52c1bce57498ff026f52c75ed0302f9f1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsmain_custom-f86530e52c1bce57498ff026f52c75ed0302f9f1.jpg\" alt=\"A Mardi Gras treat fit for a king. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1606\" height=\"980\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78636\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Mardi Gras treat fit for a king. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Emily Hilliard, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/02/26/282908382/fat-tuesday-the-many-different-doughnuts-of-mardi-gras\" target=\"_blank\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/26/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#paczki\">Paczki\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#fasnacht\">Fasnacht\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#beignets\">Beignets\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#cenci\">Cenci\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The history of doughnuts is intrinsically linked to the celebration of Mardi Gras. \"Fat Tuesday\" — the Christian day of revelry and indulgence before the austere season of Lent — features dough deep-fried in fat as its main staple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among the first foods to be deep-fried were Roman \u003cem>scriblita\u003c/em>, a precursor to today's doughnuts and fritters. Originating in the medieval era, most Christian European traditions have developed a version of fried dough for Shrove Tuesday (another name for the day before Lent starts). The rich treats presented a way to use up all of the butter, sugar and fat in the house prior to the self-denying diets of Lent. Traditionally it was an opportunity for indulgence, a day when, once a year, communities would go through the labor-intensive and expensive process of deep-frying in order to partake in a luxurious treat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Poland and Polish communities in the United States, such as in the Midwest, Fat Tuesday is given another name — \"Paczki Day,\" referring to the dense yet puffy jelly-filled doughnuts enjoyed on the occasion. \u003ca href=\"http://www.americanfoodroots.com/features/polish-paczki-the-midwests-last-fling-before-lent/\">\u003cem>Paczki\u003c/em>\u003c/a> were traditionally filled with rose hip jam or a stewed plum concoction called \u003cem>powidla\u003c/em>, though today they often contain a variety of different jams and custards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The history of colonization and immigration from the \"old world\" to the new can be traced through the evolution of doughnuts such as \u003cem>paczki\u003c/em>. These celebration foods were important, and were both preserved and altered as they interacted with new ingredients and other influences in their new homes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Portuguese \u003cem>malasadas\u003c/em>, also enjoyed on Shrove Tuesday, or \"Malasada Day,\" were another such confection. The raised doughnuts were brought to Hawaii by sugar plantation workers in the late 1800s. Though originally they had no holes or fillings, they have evolved there to include fillings with Hawaiian ingredients such as guava and coconut. They are also popular among Portuguese communities in New England.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The German take on pre-Lenten doughnuts are called \u003cem>fastnachts\u003c/em> (or \u003cem>fasnachts\u003c/em>), bearing the same name as the traditional Carnival celebration, which translates as \"fast night.\" The golden-brown yeasted treats, related to bismarks and berliners, are also found in Pennsylvania Dutch and Moravian enclaves in the United States. (In Maryland, the same doughnuts are called kinklings.) Traditional \u003cem>fastnachts\u003c/em> are fried in lard and, like \u003cem>malasadas,\u003c/em> do not have a hole or contain filling. The Pennsylvania Dutch version often includes mashed potatoes in the recipe, making a heartier and denser doughnut — something to stick to your ribs until the end of Lent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beignets are the most widely known Mardi Gras doughnut. The recipe for the light and eggy pillows of fried dough was brought to Louisiana when French Acadians were deported there in the 18th century. But there is another, lesser-known Carnival doughnut in New Orleans — \u003ca href=\"http://www.americanfoodroots.com/50-states/calas-and-beignets-both-in-new-orleans-to-party/\">calas\u003c/a>. Sweet, fried rice dumplings, calas originate from the West African enslaved people who were brought to the area in the late 1700s. The recipe was passed on among Catholic African-American families who served them at Mardi Gras and other celebrations, and they're making a comeback in New Orleans restaurants, where they're offered as both savory and sweet dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Italy has two pre-Lenten fried confections: Both \u003cem>castagnoles\u003c/em>, fried cake puffs soaked in liqueur, and \u003cem>cenci\u003c/em> (also called \u003cem>frappe\u003c/em>), crispy strips of fried pastry similar to funnel cake, are enjoyed during \u003cem>Carnevale\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As it goes with traditional recipes that have undergone many relocations, transitions and generations, there are many variations and not one definitive source for all of these varying Carnival delights. No matter which you chose, celebrate next Tuesday the way it's supposed to be — with a hearty helping of dough and fat.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"paczki\">\u003c/a>Paczki\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Polish paczki are dense yet puffy fruit-filled doughnuts that have become a Fat Tuesday mainstay in Polish communities across the United States. They're traditionally filled with rose hip jam or stewed plums, but you can use your favorite jam. This recipe is adapted from \u003c/em>Polish Heritage Cookery\u003cem> by Robert and Maria Stybel (Hippocrene, 2005).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78637\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1536px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutspaczki_custom-42eb4a41eddf1317c88322fab4bb0064dcde4c3a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutspaczki_custom-42eb4a41eddf1317c88322fab4bb0064dcde4c3a.jpg\" alt=\"Paczki. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1536\" height=\"1023\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78637\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paczki. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes approximately 2 dozen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 packets active dry yeast\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup whole milk, lukewarm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for rolling\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon white sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 large egg yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2/3 cup powdered sugar, plus more for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons rum\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 stick salted butter, melted and lukewarm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Canola oil for frying (or lard for a more traditional paczki)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jam for filling\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, dissolve yeast in lukewarm milk. Sift in 1 cup of the flour and the white sugar. Whisk together, cover and let stand in a warm place to let rise, 5 to 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using a stand mixer, or whisk and large bowl, beat the egg yolks with powdered sugar and vanilla until fluffy. In a large bowl, sift remaining flour, add yeast mixture, egg mixture and rum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Knead dough until it is smooth and glossy. Return to the bowl and mix in melted butter and continue to knead until dough no longer clings to the hands and bowl and air bubbles begin to appear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover bowl with cloth and let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 1 hour. Punch dough down and let it rise again, about 45 minutes. Transfer dough to a floured surface, and roll out about 1/2-inch thick. With a biscuit cutter, cut into rounds. Place on a baking sheet covered with parchment paper and cover with a cloth while you heat the oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour oil into a deep, heavy saucepan with high sides, until about 3 inches deep. Bring to 360 to 375 degrees F over medium heat. Working in batches, fry paczki until puffed and golden brown, about 2 minutes on each side. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and let cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once cool, insert a small hole into the side of the doughnut and fill with jam using a pastry bag. Dust with powdered sugar and eat fresh.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"fasnacht\">\u003c/a>Fasnacht (Or Fastnacht)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Fastnachts are yeasted doughnuts of German descent that bear the same name as the traditional pre-Lenten celebration, which translates as \"fast night.\" They typically have no hole or filling and are dusted with powdered sugar. This recipe, like many Pennsylvania Dutch recipes for fasnacht, uses powdered sugar. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78638\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1536px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsfasnacht_enl-2e4a25232d0654a41291aacecc9cda63c12b4136.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsfasnacht_enl-2e4a25232d0654a41291aacecc9cda63c12b4136.jpg\" alt=\"Fasnacht. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1536\" height=\"1023\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78638\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fasnacht. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes approximately 2 dozen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 packet active dry yeast\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup whole milk, lukewarm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup sugar, plus a pinch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup mashed potatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large egg, beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Canola oil for frying (or traditionally, lard)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Powdered sugar, for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm milk, add a pinch of sugar and whisk together. Set aside in a warm place to rise, 5 to 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl or in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine flour, mashed potatoes, 1/2 cup sugar and salt. Add the yeast mixture, butter and beaten egg. Mix together until combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turn the dough out on a floured surface and knead until the dough is elastic and not sticky, about 3 to 4 minutes. Roll out dough about 1/2-inch thick and cut into squares (a round biscuit cutter is also OK, though squares are traditional).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the cut doughnuts on a floured cookie sheet, cover with a cloth, and let rise 30 to 40 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, in a deep, heavy saucepan with high sides, pour oil about 3 inches deep. Bring to 360-375 degrees F over medium heat. Working in batches, fry fasnacht until puffed and golden brown, about 2 minutes on each side. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and let cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once cool, dust with powdered sugar and serve warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"beignets\">\u003c/a>Beignets\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Beignets are the classic pillowy, fried dough confections traditionally eaten at French Mardi Gras celebrations and now ubiquitous in Louisiana and other areas of the South. I recommend making the dough the night before so you can fry and eat them fresh first thing the next morning. This recipe is adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://whatscookingamerica.net/History/BeignetsHistory.htm\">What's Cooking America\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78639\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1539px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsbeignets_custom-fa9cf533a0937def36e01073c658044821c6baef.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsbeignets_custom-fa9cf533a0937def36e01073c658044821c6baef.jpg\" alt=\"Beignets. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1539\" height=\"1022\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78639\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beignets. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 18 to 24 beignets\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup lukewarm water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 teaspoons active dry yeast\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup white sugar, plus a pinch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large egg, beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup evaporated milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vegetable oil for deep-frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Powdered sugar for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, place water, yeast and pinch of sugar. Whisk together and let sit to dissolve yeast, 5 to 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl or bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine flour, 1/4 cup sugar and salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add yeast mixture and stir until incorporated. Add egg, butter and evaporated milk and mix until well combined and dough is smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove dough from bowl and roll out onto a lightly oiled surface. Form dough into a ball and place in a lightly greased bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled, 3 to 4 hours or overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once chilled, remove dough from the refrigerator and roll out on a lightly floured surface about 1/2-inch thick. Cut into squares and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover with a cloth and set aside while you heat the oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a deep heavy saucepan with high sides, heat 3 inches of oil to 360-375 degrees F. Working in batches, fry the beignets for 2 minutes on each side, until puffed and golden brown. Using a wire skimmer or slotted spatula, transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Transfer to a baking sheet and let cool completely. Dust with powdered sugar and serve warm or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cenci\">\u003c/a>Cenci\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Different from the other recipes featured here, Italian \u003c/em>cenci\u003cem> (literally, \"rags\") are strips of fried pastry that are said to have been made from leftover scraps of dough. They are known by different names across Italy and are akin to elephant ears or funnel cake in the United States. This recipe is adapted from \u003c/em>Cucina Povera: Tuscan Peasant Cooking\u003cem> by Pamela Sheldon Johns (Andrews McMeel, 2011).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78640\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1592px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutscenci_custom-6cc92f7d6c3e1bc704dfbe4774e2016216e23c57.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutscenci_custom-6cc92f7d6c3e1bc704dfbe4774e2016216e23c57.jpg\" alt=\"Cenci. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1592\" height=\"988\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78640\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cenci. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 3 dozen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup white sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup sparkling water, dry white wine or vin santo\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grated zest of 1 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vegetable oil for deep-frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Powdered sugar for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl or bowl of a stand mixer, combine the sugar, eggs and butter. Beat with a wooden spoon or stand mixer until creamy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stir in the sparkling water or wine, lemon zest and salt. Stir in the flour, blending until well-combined and dough is stiff, though sticky. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out to a thickness of 1/8 inch. Using a fluted pastry wheel, cut the dough into 1-by-3-inch strips. Make a cut down the center of each strip, leaving the ends attached.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a deep heavy saucepan with high sides, heat 3 inches of oil to 360-375 degrees F. Working in batches, fry the pastry for 3 to 4 minutes, or until golden. Using a wire skimmer or slotted spatula, transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Transfer to a baking sheet and let cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dust with powdered sugar and serve warm or at room temperature. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>About the Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Emily Hilliard is a folklorist and writer living in Washington, D.C. She writes the pie blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.nothinginthehouse.com/\">Nothing-in-the-House\u003c/a> and recently released the cookbook \u003ca href=\"http://www.etsy.com/listing/113875269/pie-a-hand-drawn-almanac\">PIE. A Hand Drawn Almanac\u003c/a> with illustrator \u003ca href=\"http://www.elizabethgraeber.com/\">Elizabeth Graeber\u003c/a>. Find more of Emily's work on \u003ca href=\"http://emilyehilliard.com/\">her website\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Get Your Beignets Ready for Mardi Gras",
"title": "Get Your Beignets Ready for Mardi Gras",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78532\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2386px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet10.gif\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet10.gif\" alt=\"Finished beignets. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"2386\" height=\"1634\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78532\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Finished beignets. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mardi Gras, or Fat Tuesday--the last day of revelry and indulgence before the Catholic observance of Lent--falls on \u003cdel datetime=\"2016-02-09T22:32:47+00:00\">March 4\u003c/del> February 9 this year (2016), but cities from New Orleans to Venice to Rio de Janeiro are already getting the party started, with all manner of celebrations going on. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lent is typically observed with austerity and sobriety, with Catholics tasked with following a spare, meatless diet in the 40 days preceding Easter. Between Epiphany and Lent, however, comes \u003cem>carnevale\u003c/em>, or carnival, a celebration of the flesh that often culminates in fanciful masked balls and fantastically costumed parades, with roots in pre-Christian folk customs. San Francisco's own dance-happy \u003ca href=\"http://carnavalsanfrancisco.org/\">Carnaval\u003c/a> parade is typically held in late May, a more flesh-friendly time for dancing down Mission Street in little more than giant feathers and a strategically placed sequin or two. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although Mardi Gras parties happen throughout Europe, Greece, the Caribbean, Mexico, and South and Central America, the holiday is most closely associated with the culture, food, and music of New Orleans. While the purple-gold-and-green-glazed \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/22/king-friday-three-kings-cake/\">king cake\u003c/a> is a staple for the holiday, there's no denying that the puffy yeast-raised doughnuts known as beignets--in all their freshly fried, powdered-sugar glory--are a delight of Big Easy proportions every day. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can find them on brunch and/or dinner menus at many Southern-themed restaurants in San Francisco and Oakland, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.boxingroom.com\">Boxing Room\u003c/a> in Hayes Valley, \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchsoulfood.com\">Brenda's Soul Food\u003c/a> in the Tenderloin (which makes both sweet and savory versions), \u003ca href=\"http://www.theelitecafe.com\">the Elite Cafe\u003c/a> in Pacific Heights, \u003ca href=\"http://www.justforyoucafe.com\">Just for You Cafe\u003c/a> in Potrero's Dogpatch neighborhood, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bistroboudin.com\">Bistro Boudin\u003c/a> at Fisherman's Wharf, \u003ca href=\"http://www.1300fillmore.com\">1300 on Fillmore\u003c/a> in the Western Addition, \u003ca href=\"http://www.picanrestaurant.com\">Pican\u003c/a> in Uptown Oakland and \u003ca href=\"http://www.brownsugarkitchen.com\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/a> in West Oakland. You'll even find orange-blossom beignets on the dessert menu at the Basque restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.piperade.com/\">Piperade\u003c/a>, near Telegraph Hill. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the best beignet is the freshest beignet, and for that, nothing beats making your own. The dough is a simple yeast dough that's mixed up in minutes, then left to rise for an hour. Cut into squares and dropped into hot oil, the dough swells into golden brown puffs almost instantly, ready for dusting in powdered sugar. Serve with a steaming cup of cafe au lait, and \u003cem>laissez les bons temps roulez!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Beignets\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0983859590/kqedorg-20\">World of Doughnuts: More than 50 Delectable Recipes from Around the Globe\u003c/a>, by Stephanie Rosenbaum.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can play around with the flavorings of these beignets as you wish. Instead of vanilla, try a tablespoon of orange flower water, found in Middle Eastern groceries, or 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 14 beignets\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78528\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2216px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet1.gif\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet1.gif\" alt=\"Beignet ingredients. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"2216\" height=\"1794\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78528\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beignet ingredients. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 tsp active dry yeast, dissolved in 1 tbsp warm water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 tsp salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup milk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 egg, beaten\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 vanilla bean, split, or 2 tsp vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Vegetable oil for frying\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Powdered sugar for dusting\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. In a small saucepan, heat milk and butter until milk is hot but not boiling and butter is melted. If using vanilla bean, scrape seeds into milk with the tip of a knife. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a large bowl, whisk flour, sugar, and salt together. Pour in hot milk and stir into a clumpy dough. Add egg, yeast, and vanilla extract if using. Stir well, then knead gently a few times to make a rough dough. Cover with a towel and set aside in a warm place for 1 hour, until doubled in bulk. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78529\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2270px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet5.gif\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet5.gif\" alt=\"Squares of dough ready to fry. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"2270\" height=\"1678\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78529\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Squares of dough ready to fry. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>3. Pat dough into a rectangle about 1/2-inch thick. Cut into roughly even squares, about 2\"x 2\". Spread out a baking sheet, cover with towel and return to warm place to rise for another 15-20 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. While beignets are rising, heat the oil. Fill a wide, heavy saucepan or Dutch oven with oil to a depth of about 4 inches. Heat over medium-high heat to 365ºF, checking frequently with an instant-read digital thermometer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78530\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet6.gif\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet6.gif\" alt=\"Beignets frying. Photo: Stephanie Roseumbaum\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78530\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beignets frying. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>5. When oil is hot, reduce heat to medium and add beignets in batches, about 4 to 6 at a time depending on the size of your pan. The beignets will sink, then float to the top. Fry for about 60 to 90 seconds, until golden brown, then flip over to fry the other side. When both sides are golden, remove to a cooling rack. Fry remaining beignets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78531\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet9.gif\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet9.gif\" alt=\"Almost done and ready for powdered sugar. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78531\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Almost done and ready for powdered sugar. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Transfer beignets to a serving plate. Using a fine-mesh strainer, shake powdered sugar over beignets to coat. Serve immediately--beignets are best when still warm. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "It's Mardi Gras season, a perfect time to enjoy New Orleans-style beignets. Find out which Bay Area restaurants are offering these tasty doughnuts, and try Stephanie Rosenbaum's easy recipe for making fresh beignets at home. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78532\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2386px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet10.gif\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet10.gif\" alt=\"Finished beignets. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"2386\" height=\"1634\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78532\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Finished beignets. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mardi Gras, or Fat Tuesday--the last day of revelry and indulgence before the Catholic observance of Lent--falls on \u003cdel datetime=\"2016-02-09T22:32:47+00:00\">March 4\u003c/del> February 9 this year (2016), but cities from New Orleans to Venice to Rio de Janeiro are already getting the party started, with all manner of celebrations going on. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lent is typically observed with austerity and sobriety, with Catholics tasked with following a spare, meatless diet in the 40 days preceding Easter. Between Epiphany and Lent, however, comes \u003cem>carnevale\u003c/em>, or carnival, a celebration of the flesh that often culminates in fanciful masked balls and fantastically costumed parades, with roots in pre-Christian folk customs. San Francisco's own dance-happy \u003ca href=\"http://carnavalsanfrancisco.org/\">Carnaval\u003c/a> parade is typically held in late May, a more flesh-friendly time for dancing down Mission Street in little more than giant feathers and a strategically placed sequin or two. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although Mardi Gras parties happen throughout Europe, Greece, the Caribbean, Mexico, and South and Central America, the holiday is most closely associated with the culture, food, and music of New Orleans. While the purple-gold-and-green-glazed \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/22/king-friday-three-kings-cake/\">king cake\u003c/a> is a staple for the holiday, there's no denying that the puffy yeast-raised doughnuts known as beignets--in all their freshly fried, powdered-sugar glory--are a delight of Big Easy proportions every day. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can find them on brunch and/or dinner menus at many Southern-themed restaurants in San Francisco and Oakland, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.boxingroom.com\">Boxing Room\u003c/a> in Hayes Valley, \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchsoulfood.com\">Brenda's Soul Food\u003c/a> in the Tenderloin (which makes both sweet and savory versions), \u003ca href=\"http://www.theelitecafe.com\">the Elite Cafe\u003c/a> in Pacific Heights, \u003ca href=\"http://www.justforyoucafe.com\">Just for You Cafe\u003c/a> in Potrero's Dogpatch neighborhood, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bistroboudin.com\">Bistro Boudin\u003c/a> at Fisherman's Wharf, \u003ca href=\"http://www.1300fillmore.com\">1300 on Fillmore\u003c/a> in the Western Addition, \u003ca href=\"http://www.picanrestaurant.com\">Pican\u003c/a> in Uptown Oakland and \u003ca href=\"http://www.brownsugarkitchen.com\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/a> in West Oakland. You'll even find orange-blossom beignets on the dessert menu at the Basque restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.piperade.com/\">Piperade\u003c/a>, near Telegraph Hill. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the best beignet is the freshest beignet, and for that, nothing beats making your own. The dough is a simple yeast dough that's mixed up in minutes, then left to rise for an hour. Cut into squares and dropped into hot oil, the dough swells into golden brown puffs almost instantly, ready for dusting in powdered sugar. Serve with a steaming cup of cafe au lait, and \u003cem>laissez les bons temps roulez!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Beignets\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0983859590/kqedorg-20\">World of Doughnuts: More than 50 Delectable Recipes from Around the Globe\u003c/a>, by Stephanie Rosenbaum.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can play around with the flavorings of these beignets as you wish. Instead of vanilla, try a tablespoon of orange flower water, found in Middle Eastern groceries, or 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 14 beignets\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78528\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2216px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet1.gif\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet1.gif\" alt=\"Beignet ingredients. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"2216\" height=\"1794\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78528\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beignet ingredients. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 tsp active dry yeast, dissolved in 1 tbsp warm water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 tsp salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup milk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 egg, beaten\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 vanilla bean, split, or 2 tsp vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Vegetable oil for frying\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Powdered sugar for dusting\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. In a small saucepan, heat milk and butter until milk is hot but not boiling and butter is melted. If using vanilla bean, scrape seeds into milk with the tip of a knife. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a large bowl, whisk flour, sugar, and salt together. Pour in hot milk and stir into a clumpy dough. Add egg, yeast, and vanilla extract if using. Stir well, then knead gently a few times to make a rough dough. Cover with a towel and set aside in a warm place for 1 hour, until doubled in bulk. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78529\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2270px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet5.gif\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet5.gif\" alt=\"Squares of dough ready to fry. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"2270\" height=\"1678\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78529\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Squares of dough ready to fry. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>3. Pat dough into a rectangle about 1/2-inch thick. Cut into roughly even squares, about 2\"x 2\". Spread out a baking sheet, cover with towel and return to warm place to rise for another 15-20 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. While beignets are rising, heat the oil. Fill a wide, heavy saucepan or Dutch oven with oil to a depth of about 4 inches. Heat over medium-high heat to 365ºF, checking frequently with an instant-read digital thermometer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78530\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet6.gif\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet6.gif\" alt=\"Beignets frying. Photo: Stephanie Roseumbaum\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78530\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beignets frying. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>5. When oil is hot, reduce heat to medium and add beignets in batches, about 4 to 6 at a time depending on the size of your pan. The beignets will sink, then float to the top. Fry for about 60 to 90 seconds, until golden brown, then flip over to fry the other side. When both sides are golden, remove to a cooling rack. Fry remaining beignets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78531\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet9.gif\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/Beignet9.gif\" alt=\"Almost done and ready for powdered sugar. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78531\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Almost done and ready for powdered sugar. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Transfer beignets to a serving plate. Using a fine-mesh strainer, shake powdered sugar over beignets to coat. Serve immediately--beignets are best when still warm. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Cholent: The Original Slow-Cooked Dish ",
"title": "Cholent: The Original Slow-Cooked Dish ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78505\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2305368176_f7780b9537_o-copy_wide-b5de3f6ea2db1c307d7b5041a9dda4479739a56f.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2305368176_f7780b9537_o-copy_wide-b5de3f6ea2db1c307d7b5041a9dda4479739a56f.jpg\" alt=\"While traditional cholents feature meat and beans cooked for a whole day, some modern versions, like this one, use vegetable protein and a quick braise. Photo: rusvaplauke/Flickr\" width=\"1024\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78505\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">While traditional cholents feature meat and beans cooked for a whole day, some modern versions, like this one, use vegetable protein and a quick braise. Photo: rusvaplauke/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Deena Prichep, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/22/280231765/cholent-the-original-slow-cooked-dish\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/22/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/22/280231765/cholent-the-original-slow-cooked-dish\">Weekend Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesat/2014/02/20140222_wesat_cholent_the_original_slow-cooked_dish_.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This chilly winter, many of us have warmed ourselves — and our kitchens — with long-cooked meals. Roasts, beans, and stews have been in heavy rotation. But there's a dish called \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> that isn't just cooked for a few hours — it's cooked for a full day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Cholent\u003c/em> is rooted in the Jewish Sabbath, which traditionally prohibits work from sundown Friday to sundown Saturday. Under some interpretations, this includes prohibitions on even turning on the oven or stove. So for those who want to have a hot meal (and many feel a religious imperative to do so), the solution is to set up a stewed dish cooking low and slow on Friday, long before the sunset. Over a day of slow cooking, flavors infuse, beans soften, and tough cuts of meat become tender. By the time synagogue services are complete on Saturday afternoon, the rich, flavorful stew is ready to ladle out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilmarks.com/\">Gil Marks\u003c/a> has traced \u003cem>cholent's\u003c/em> journey over the past thousand years, as it moved through different countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The dish comes out of the Middle East, and then it spreads to North Africa, and by the 9th century, it's already found in Spain,\" Marks says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dish eventually made its way to Eastern Europe — the term \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> refers to this version, which is most common in America. Eastern European (Ashkenazi) \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> usually features beans, barley, and some sort of meat. The seasoning will vary. Marks points to Hungarian recipes with paprika, peppered Lithuanian variations, and Polish \u003cem>cholents\u003c/em> flavored with little more than onions and garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The surviving versions from the Middle East through North African vary as well — from Iraqi \u003ca href=\"http://www.tasteofbeirut.com/2011/11/iraqi-jewish-chicken-and-rice-tibeat/\">\u003cem>tbit\u003c/em>\u003c/a> featuring a whole chicken stewed overnight with rice, to turmeric- and cumin-scented \u003ca href=\"http://www.dinnersanddreams.net/2011/01/skhina.html\">Moroccan \u003c/a>stews with long-cooked eggs that become caramel-colored.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Marks maintains that \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> didn't just change shape in different countries — it gave rise to new dishes. \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/toulouse-style-cassoulet\">Cassoulet\u003c/a> is a classic Southern French dish, but Marks thinks it has its roots in \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We do find a number of French sources from the Catholic church forbidding Christians from eating a long-cooked bean dish because it's Jewish,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And \u003ca href=\"http://www.simplyrecipes.com/recipes/slow_cooked_boston_baked_beans/\">Boston baked beans\u003c/a> may seem like a dish born in America, but Marks maintains that it came from a version of \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> made by Sephardic Jews – those of Spanish, Portuguese, Middle Eastern and North African descent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marks says the Puritans learned this version of the dish – called \u003cem>shachna --\u003c/em> from Jews they met during their time in Holland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shachna, Marks explains, consists of beans cooked in goose fat with honey. But the Puritans \"don't have goose, so they substitute pork. And they don't have honey, so they substitute either maple syrup or molasses.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, these \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> theories on Boston baked beans and cassoulet can be difficult to really prove. But \u003cem>cholen\u003c/em>t has changed modern American cooking in ways that are undeniable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inventor Irving Naxon came up with over 200 patents, for everything from washing machines to sending data over telephone wires. But one of his most popular ideas was inspired by his mother's stories of making \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> in Lithuania.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"She would walk it over to the village bakery, where, as the ovens were turned off for the Sabbath, the pot of \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> would be put in the oven,\" explains Naxon's daughter, Lenore. \"And that slow residual heat over the course of the 24 hours would be enough to cook the \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the Saturday religious services, the kids would pick up their pots for a warm Sabbath meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So my father heard that story, and thought, hmm, well how can I take the crock and electrify it with some slow, even heat?\" Lenore Naxon remembers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The resulting invention was first called the Naxon Beanery — but you might know it better as the \u003ca href=\"http://www.crock-pot.com/\">Crock-Pot\u003c/a>. It's an idea that went from the Middle East, to a little shtetl in Lithuania, to millions of American homes. And in some of them, it's still being used to make \u003cem>cholent.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Cholent\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>yields about 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe comes from Devora Wilhelm of Portland's \u003ca href=\"http://www.maimonidesjds.org/\">Maimonides Jewish Day School\u003c/a> — it originally came from her mother, who got it from a Hungarian friend. Wilhelm stresses that you should feel free to tailor your cholent to your taste — use waxy or starchy potatoes, chickpeas or kidney or pinto beans. As Wilhelm encourages, \"it doesn't matter, it's cholent — do what you want.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>a few tablespoons canola or olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 onions, peeled and sliced or diced in large pieces (they'll nearly melt by the end, so don't worry)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup pinto beans, soaked overnight\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup barley, soaked overnight\u003cbr> 5 potatoes, peeled and cut up into large chunks (starchy or waxy)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>generous sprinklings each of paprika, salt, black pepper, turmeric , garlic powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 1/4 — 3/4 of a chicken (this can be pieces of a whole bird, just legs or thighs, cut-up cutlets, etc.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat oil in a medium heat over a large pot (or, if you have a stovetop-friendly slow cooker, you can use that). Saute the onions until soft and translucent. If you've used a separate pot, transfer to a slow cooker a this point. Add the beans, barley, and potatoes, and cover with water up to a few inches from the top of the cooker. Add the seasonings, then taste the water and adjust as needed to have a combination of flavors to your liking. Add the chicken, and add additional water if needed so that it's between 1-2 inches from the top of the crock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Cook the cholent on high for three to five hours. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed, then turn to low and cook until the next day. Enjoy warm for lunch (although Wilhelm's children have been known to dip into it for breakfast). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78505\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2305368176_f7780b9537_o-copy_wide-b5de3f6ea2db1c307d7b5041a9dda4479739a56f.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2305368176_f7780b9537_o-copy_wide-b5de3f6ea2db1c307d7b5041a9dda4479739a56f.jpg\" alt=\"While traditional cholents feature meat and beans cooked for a whole day, some modern versions, like this one, use vegetable protein and a quick braise. Photo: rusvaplauke/Flickr\" width=\"1024\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78505\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">While traditional cholents feature meat and beans cooked for a whole day, some modern versions, like this one, use vegetable protein and a quick braise. Photo: rusvaplauke/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Deena Prichep, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/22/280231765/cholent-the-original-slow-cooked-dish\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/22/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/22/280231765/cholent-the-original-slow-cooked-dish\">Weekend Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This chilly winter, many of us have warmed ourselves — and our kitchens — with long-cooked meals. Roasts, beans, and stews have been in heavy rotation. But there's a dish called \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> that isn't just cooked for a few hours — it's cooked for a full day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Cholent\u003c/em> is rooted in the Jewish Sabbath, which traditionally prohibits work from sundown Friday to sundown Saturday. Under some interpretations, this includes prohibitions on even turning on the oven or stove. So for those who want to have a hot meal (and many feel a religious imperative to do so), the solution is to set up a stewed dish cooking low and slow on Friday, long before the sunset. Over a day of slow cooking, flavors infuse, beans soften, and tough cuts of meat become tender. By the time synagogue services are complete on Saturday afternoon, the rich, flavorful stew is ready to ladle out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilmarks.com/\">Gil Marks\u003c/a> has traced \u003cem>cholent's\u003c/em> journey over the past thousand years, as it moved through different countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The dish comes out of the Middle East, and then it spreads to North Africa, and by the 9th century, it's already found in Spain,\" Marks says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dish eventually made its way to Eastern Europe — the term \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> refers to this version, which is most common in America. Eastern European (Ashkenazi) \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> usually features beans, barley, and some sort of meat. The seasoning will vary. Marks points to Hungarian recipes with paprika, peppered Lithuanian variations, and Polish \u003cem>cholents\u003c/em> flavored with little more than onions and garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The surviving versions from the Middle East through North African vary as well — from Iraqi \u003ca href=\"http://www.tasteofbeirut.com/2011/11/iraqi-jewish-chicken-and-rice-tibeat/\">\u003cem>tbit\u003c/em>\u003c/a> featuring a whole chicken stewed overnight with rice, to turmeric- and cumin-scented \u003ca href=\"http://www.dinnersanddreams.net/2011/01/skhina.html\">Moroccan \u003c/a>stews with long-cooked eggs that become caramel-colored.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Marks maintains that \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> didn't just change shape in different countries — it gave rise to new dishes. \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/toulouse-style-cassoulet\">Cassoulet\u003c/a> is a classic Southern French dish, but Marks thinks it has its roots in \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We do find a number of French sources from the Catholic church forbidding Christians from eating a long-cooked bean dish because it's Jewish,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And \u003ca href=\"http://www.simplyrecipes.com/recipes/slow_cooked_boston_baked_beans/\">Boston baked beans\u003c/a> may seem like a dish born in America, but Marks maintains that it came from a version of \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> made by Sephardic Jews – those of Spanish, Portuguese, Middle Eastern and North African descent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marks says the Puritans learned this version of the dish – called \u003cem>shachna --\u003c/em> from Jews they met during their time in Holland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shachna, Marks explains, consists of beans cooked in goose fat with honey. But the Puritans \"don't have goose, so they substitute pork. And they don't have honey, so they substitute either maple syrup or molasses.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, these \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> theories on Boston baked beans and cassoulet can be difficult to really prove. But \u003cem>cholen\u003c/em>t has changed modern American cooking in ways that are undeniable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inventor Irving Naxon came up with over 200 patents, for everything from washing machines to sending data over telephone wires. But one of his most popular ideas was inspired by his mother's stories of making \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> in Lithuania.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"She would walk it over to the village bakery, where, as the ovens were turned off for the Sabbath, the pot of \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em> would be put in the oven,\" explains Naxon's daughter, Lenore. \"And that slow residual heat over the course of the 24 hours would be enough to cook the \u003cem>cholent\u003c/em>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the Saturday religious services, the kids would pick up their pots for a warm Sabbath meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So my father heard that story, and thought, hmm, well how can I take the crock and electrify it with some slow, even heat?\" Lenore Naxon remembers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The resulting invention was first called the Naxon Beanery — but you might know it better as the \u003ca href=\"http://www.crock-pot.com/\">Crock-Pot\u003c/a>. It's an idea that went from the Middle East, to a little shtetl in Lithuania, to millions of American homes. And in some of them, it's still being used to make \u003cem>cholent.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Cholent\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>yields about 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe comes from Devora Wilhelm of Portland's \u003ca href=\"http://www.maimonidesjds.org/\">Maimonides Jewish Day School\u003c/a> — it originally came from her mother, who got it from a Hungarian friend. Wilhelm stresses that you should feel free to tailor your cholent to your taste — use waxy or starchy potatoes, chickpeas or kidney or pinto beans. As Wilhelm encourages, \"it doesn't matter, it's cholent — do what you want.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>a few tablespoons canola or olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 onions, peeled and sliced or diced in large pieces (they'll nearly melt by the end, so don't worry)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup pinto beans, soaked overnight\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup barley, soaked overnight\u003cbr> 5 potatoes, peeled and cut up into large chunks (starchy or waxy)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>generous sprinklings each of paprika, salt, black pepper, turmeric , garlic powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 1/4 — 3/4 of a chicken (this can be pieces of a whole bird, just legs or thighs, cut-up cutlets, etc.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat oil in a medium heat over a large pot (or, if you have a stovetop-friendly slow cooker, you can use that). Saute the onions until soft and translucent. If you've used a separate pot, transfer to a slow cooker a this point. Add the beans, barley, and potatoes, and cover with water up to a few inches from the top of the cooker. Add the seasonings, then taste the water and adjust as needed to have a combination of flavors to your liking. Add the chicken, and add additional water if needed so that it's between 1-2 inches from the top of the crock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Cook the cholent on high for three to five hours. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed, then turn to low and cook until the next day. Enjoy warm for lunch (although Wilhelm's children have been known to dip into it for breakfast). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Once Exotic, Now Ubiquitous, Bananas Deserve a Bunch More Respect",
"title": "Once Exotic, Now Ubiquitous, Bananas Deserve a Bunch More Respect",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78409\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1675px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananasmain_wide-430ab70b4e81e4977d2f2a1d107063a891bf3b69.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananasmain_wide-430ab70b4e81e4977d2f2a1d107063a891bf3b69.jpg\" alt=\"Bananas can be used in lots of recipes. Photo: iStockphoto\" width=\"1675\" height=\"940\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78409\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bananas can be used in lots of recipes. Photo: iStockphoto\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Laura B. Weiss, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/02/18/279217361/once-exotic-now-ubiquitous-bananas-deserve-a-bunch-more-respect\" target=\"_blank\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/19/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#pie\">Banana Cream Pie\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#caramelized\">Caramelized Bananas With Nuts And Orange Liqueur\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#smoothie\">Banana Berry Smoothie With Almond Milk\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#pancakes\">Whole-Wheat Blueberry Banana Pancakes\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's more American than apple pie? It's that familiar yellow-skinned fruit that, well, we all go bananas over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Americans down more bananas than any other fruit — in fact, about 25 pounds a year, according to the Census Bureau. I'm among those legions of banana fans. In fact, I've been a die-hard banana enthusiast since childhood when, afflicted with food allergies, bananas were one of the few fruits I could eat. I still recall my mother standing by the stove, lapping sliced bananas in a pan with a simple but sublime sauce made from honey and butter. As the dish cooked, deeply fragrant caramel and floral notes wafted through our kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although bananas are creamy, delicious and full of nutrients such as potassium and vitamin B6, the tropical fruit suffers from a persistent image problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The banana is the McDonald's hamburger of fruit,\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/08/30/139787380/bananas-the-uncertain-future-of-a-favorite-fruit\">says Dan Koeppel\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>Banana: The Fate of the Fruit That Changed the World\u003c/em>. \"It's cheap and it's ubiquitous.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, most of us take the banana for granted. They're what you slice onto your breakfast cereal. They're the butt of jokes (\"There's \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJ1a0ymGCKA\">a banana in my ear\u003c/a>!\"). They're available all year-round — an inexpensive food item that can't seem to match the allure of today's more trendy fruity offerings, such as the pomegranate or the goji berry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what I like best about the banana — which is a seedless berry, not a fruit, and the up-to-25 foot high \"tree\" is actually a giant herbaceous plant — is its versatility, especially when it comes to cooking. Indeed, there are a lot more things to do with bananas than peeling and eating them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bake bananas into that old bake-sale standby banana bread, moist and fragrant and studded with nuts and raisins. But don't stop there. Need something to enrich your pancake batter? Fold in some sliced bananas with blueberries or peaches. Or layer them in a cream-laden custard for a decadent banana cream pie. Then there's fritters, where the crunchy exterior plays off the molten bananas within. Swirl them in a blender to make daiquiris, and puree them in your morning smoothie for a dash of richness. (Are bananas fattening? You be the judge: A medium banana has 105 calories, but because of their rich taste and high fiber content, you feel full after eating one.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bananas play well with savory ingredients, too. Add curry and bananas to chicken, and plain old poultry morphs into a tropical delight, or prepare fish with bananas, a bit of coconut milk and some herbs, a bit of cumin or ginger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It may now seem far-fetched, but the banana was once considered wildly exotic. First cultivated in ancient times in Southeast Asia, bananas arrived in Europe \u003ca href=\"http://cwh.ucsc.edu/bananas/Site/Early%20History%20of%20the%20Banana.html\">in the 15th century\u003c/a>. Until the late 19th century, the sunny yellow fruit was virtually unknown in the U.S. When bananas did arrive, they caused a huge sensation. At the 1876 Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia, the display of towering banana plants was so popular that a guard was posted to keep gawking fairgoers from pulling it apart for souvenirs, writes Virginia Scott Jenkins in \u003cem>Bananas: An American History\u003c/em>.\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't long before bananas — hundreds can hang from a single tree — became cheap and abundant. Their popularity meant that large U.S. growers, such as United Fruit Co., gobbled up land in Central America to expand their plantations to meet the growing demand. During the early 20th century, the U.S. intervened several times in order to support these economic interests. This is when the term \"banana republic\" was coined to describe a corrupt dictatorship whose government was controlled by American growers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Americans mostly know only one variety of bananas — the Cavendish. That's the familiar sweet or dessert banana. But there's also the plantain, or cooking banana, with its higher starch content. Beyond that, more than 1,000 red, blue, even black bananas with varied tastes and textures grow throughout the tropics, from Africa to South America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the familiar, reliable Cavendish is in trouble. \u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2013/11/131104092734.htm\">A virulent fungus\u003c/a>, which killed off the Gros Michel, an earlier common banana variety, poses a threat to the worldwide crop. Is there a danger that the banana Americans love could become extinct? It would \"take a long time\" before that happens, says Koeppel, and \"hopefully they'll find a replacement variety.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to storing bananas, as just about everyone knows, they typically start out a bit green, then turn a sunny yellow. After a few days, they develop brown spots, but that's when they're perfect for baking or folding into smoothies for dessert or breakfast — and that's my favorite way to give the humble banana its due.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca name=\"pie\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Banana Cream Pie\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe appeared in \u003c/em>Bon Appetit'\u003cem>s February 2003 issue, but it actually hails from McEwen's in Memphis, Tenn., whose banana cream pies are legendary. In this version, I reduced the sugar and increased the bananas for a more banana-y flavor. Though a plain pie crust is traditional, I used a chocolate cookie crumb crust instead. I find the chocolate contrasts nicely with the sweet custard.\u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78411\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1449px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananapie-3992e01975e68ab82f7620eb51e146b231980e1a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananapie-3992e01975e68ab82f7620eb51e146b231980e1a.jpg\" alt=\"Banana Cream Pie. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/ NPR\" width=\"1449\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78411\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banana Cream Pie. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/ NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 8 to 10 servings\u003c/em>\u003cbr> \u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crust\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>35 packaged chocolate cookies (such as chocolate wafers) to make 1 ½ cups crumbs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Filling\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup cornstarch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups whipping cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 large egg yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 ripe bananas, peeled, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick coins\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the crust, place the cookies, melted butter and salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Pulse the crumbs 12 to 14 times until the crumbs are the consistency of cornmeal. If you prefer finer ones, pulse one or two additional times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour the crumbs into a 9-inch pie plate. With your fingers, distribute the crumbs evenly around the pie plate. Be sure the crumbs reach all the way up the sides of the pie plate and cover the bottom completely. Press the crumbs down against the plate with the heel of your hand or with an offset spatula.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Refrigerate the crust for 1 hour or place it in the freezer for a half-hour covered tightly with plastic wrap. (I like to freeze the crust before filling it with the custard. It makes it firmer and holds the custard better.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bake the crust for 10 to 15 minutes. Cool the crust completely before filling. (You can wrap and freeze the crust for up to a month.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the filling, whisk the sugar, cornstarch and salt in a large saucepan until it is well-combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gradually whisk in a small amount of the cream, whisking thoroughly so that there are no lumps, over low heat\u003cem>. \u003c/em>Add the rest of the cream and the whole milk, whisking continuously to avoid lumps. Add the egg yolks and keep whisking. You should wind up with a smooth custard without lumps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a paring knife, carefully cut the vanilla bean vertically down the center and scrape the seeds onto a plate. Add the vanilla beans and pod to the mixture. Whisk the custard over medium-high heat until the custard thickens and boils. Be careful not to burn the custard. This should take 4 to 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the custard from the heat. Remove the vanilla pod. Whisk in the unsalted butter and the vanilla extract. Pour the custard into a large bowl and refrigerate. Let the custard cool completely in the refrigerator. It will thicken in about an hour\u003cem>. \u003c/em>(If it's too thick, thin it with a bit of cream.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you're ready to assemble the pie, whisk the custard briefly then spread 1 cup of custard over the bottom of the chocolate cookie crust. Top with half of the sliced bananas. Pour 1 cup of the custard over the bananas making sure to cover the fruit completely. Repeat until you have used up all of the custard and bananas. Chill the banana cream pie for 2 hours. Top the pie with whipped cream and decorate the pie with banana slices. Cut the pie into wedges and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca name=\"caramelized\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Caramelized Bananas With Nuts And Orange Liqueur\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This preparation, adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/recipes/caramelized_bananas.html\">a 2004 \u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/recipes/caramelized_bananas.html\">Eating Well\u003c/a>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/recipes/caramelized_bananas.html\"> recipe\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cem>, cooks the bananas quickly so they don't become mushy. The original recipe calls for rum, as do many other sautéed and baked banana recipes. But I prefer orange liqueur for the citrusy notes it brings to the dish. I like the addition of nuts for a bit of crunch.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78410\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1674px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananafoster_wide-b070b2978f1fa3965513ddd23926f522c3e22482.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananafoster_wide-b070b2978f1fa3965513ddd23926f522c3e22482.jpg\" alt=\"Caramelized Bananas With Nuts And Orange Liqueur. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1674\" height=\"940\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78410\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Caramelized Bananas With Nuts And Orange Liqueur. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 medium firm bananas, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons dark brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons honey\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup pecans or walnuts chopped very roughly\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup orange liqueur\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 teaspoon cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vanilla ice cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut the bananas in half crosswise, then again lengthwise. (This will make them easier to handle while cooking them.) Set the bananas aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the brown sugar and honey and heat until the mixture just begins to caramelize, about 2 minutes. Saute the nuts for about 2 minutes in the butter-sugar mixture until they are well coated. Remove the nuts from the pan and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the banana slices on top of the sauce, flat side facing up. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes or long enough so that the bananas have a nutty brown coating, but not so long that the bananas become mushy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turn each banana slice carefully with a spatula and cook them cut side down for 1 minute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the bananas from the heat and add the orange liqueur and cinnamon. Place the pan back on the heat. Cook the bananas for about 1 minute longer in the sauce, basting them as they cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the bananas on a serving plate or on dessert plates. Spoon the sauce on top of the bananas. Top with the nuts. Serve immediately with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca name=\"smoothie\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Banana Berry Smoothie With Almond Milk\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can easily use fresh fruit in this recipe, but then you'll want to refrigerate the smoothie to chill it. I use frozen fruit so that I can drink the smoothie right away. With all the vegans and dairy intolerant people in my family, almond milk is my choice, but you could use milk or yogurt as well.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78412\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1447px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananasmoothie-535637f6cc40c437c067e978f51bad545154000c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananasmoothie-535637f6cc40c437c067e978f51bad545154000c.jpg\" alt=\"Banana Berry Smoothie With Almond Milk. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1447\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78412\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banana Berry Smoothie With Almond Milk. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 large servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 ripe bananas cut into pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup frozen strawberries\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup frozen blueberries\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups almond milk, cold\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon honey\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup orange juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the fruit, almond milk, honey and orange juice into the container of a blender and blend until smooth. If you don't drink the smoothie immediately, place it in the refrigerator. If the smoothie becomes too thick, thin it with some additional almond milk.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca name=\"pancakes\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Whole-Wheat Blueberry Banana Pancakes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is a combination of many pancake recipes I've tried over the years. The bananas are added to what's otherwise a classic blueberry pancake recipe. You could easily substitute peaches, raspberries or any other fruit for the blueberries and regular or soy milk for all or part of the buttermilk. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78413\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1447px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananapancakes-51786c2001b66d7c9941fd7a37ea339bba04ea3c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananapancakes-51786c2001b66d7c9941fd7a37ea339bba04ea3c.jpg\" alt=\"Whole Wheat Blueberry Banana Pancakes. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1447\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78413\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Whole Wheat Blueberry Banana Pancakes. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups whole-wheat pastry flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon baking powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup buttermilk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs, lightly beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon honey\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter, melted (melt in the microwave)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 to 2 bananas sliced into 1/2-inch coins\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups blueberries\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maple syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the pancake batter, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a large bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In another bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, milk, eggs, honey and melted butter. Add to the flour mixture. Stir all the ingredients until they are just combined. Lumps in pancake batter are perfectly fine. If you overmix the batter, the pancakes will be tough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt a tablespoon of butter in a large skillet. Using a small ladle or a 1/2 cup measure, pour some batter into the pan. (If the skillet is large enough, you may be able to make as many as 4 small pancakes at a time, but be careful not to crowd them.) Drop four slices of bananas and 4 to 6 blueberries onto each pancake. When the edges have set and bubbles start to appear, flip the pancake with a spatula and cook the other side about 3 minutes. (To keep the pancakes from tearing, try to resist the temptation to flip them more than once.) Repeat this process with the remaining batter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve with maple syrup. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>About the Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Laura B. Weiss' work has appeared in numerous national publications, including \u003cem>The New York Times,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/Kitchen/History-New-England-Indian-Pudding\">Saveur\u003c/a>,\u003cem> Travel + Leisure, \u003c/em>and on the Food Network website. She's a contributor to \u003ca href=\"http://designwire.interiordesign.net/events/15485/young-chinese-designers-make-western-debut\">Interior Design\u003c/a>\u003cem>'s\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>blog\u003cem> \u003c/em>and\u003cem> \u003c/em>was an editor for the \u003cem>Zagat Long Island Restaurant Guide\u003c/em> \u003cem>2009-2011. \u003c/em>Laura is the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ice-Cream-Global-History-Reaktion/dp/1861897928\">Ice Cream: A Global History\u003c/a>. Follow Laura on Twitter, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Foodandthings\" target=\"_blank\">@foodandthings\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78409\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1675px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananasmain_wide-430ab70b4e81e4977d2f2a1d107063a891bf3b69.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananasmain_wide-430ab70b4e81e4977d2f2a1d107063a891bf3b69.jpg\" alt=\"Bananas can be used in lots of recipes. Photo: iStockphoto\" width=\"1675\" height=\"940\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78409\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bananas can be used in lots of recipes. Photo: iStockphoto\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Laura B. Weiss, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/02/18/279217361/once-exotic-now-ubiquitous-bananas-deserve-a-bunch-more-respect\" target=\"_blank\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/19/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#pie\">Banana Cream Pie\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#caramelized\">Caramelized Bananas With Nuts And Orange Liqueur\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#smoothie\">Banana Berry Smoothie With Almond Milk\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#pancakes\">Whole-Wheat Blueberry Banana Pancakes\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's more American than apple pie? It's that familiar yellow-skinned fruit that, well, we all go bananas over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Americans down more bananas than any other fruit — in fact, about 25 pounds a year, according to the Census Bureau. I'm among those legions of banana fans. In fact, I've been a die-hard banana enthusiast since childhood when, afflicted with food allergies, bananas were one of the few fruits I could eat. I still recall my mother standing by the stove, lapping sliced bananas in a pan with a simple but sublime sauce made from honey and butter. As the dish cooked, deeply fragrant caramel and floral notes wafted through our kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although bananas are creamy, delicious and full of nutrients such as potassium and vitamin B6, the tropical fruit suffers from a persistent image problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The banana is the McDonald's hamburger of fruit,\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/08/30/139787380/bananas-the-uncertain-future-of-a-favorite-fruit\">says Dan Koeppel\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>Banana: The Fate of the Fruit That Changed the World\u003c/em>. \"It's cheap and it's ubiquitous.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, most of us take the banana for granted. They're what you slice onto your breakfast cereal. They're the butt of jokes (\"There's \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJ1a0ymGCKA\">a banana in my ear\u003c/a>!\"). They're available all year-round — an inexpensive food item that can't seem to match the allure of today's more trendy fruity offerings, such as the pomegranate or the goji berry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what I like best about the banana — which is a seedless berry, not a fruit, and the up-to-25 foot high \"tree\" is actually a giant herbaceous plant — is its versatility, especially when it comes to cooking. Indeed, there are a lot more things to do with bananas than peeling and eating them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bake bananas into that old bake-sale standby banana bread, moist and fragrant and studded with nuts and raisins. But don't stop there. Need something to enrich your pancake batter? Fold in some sliced bananas with blueberries or peaches. Or layer them in a cream-laden custard for a decadent banana cream pie. Then there's fritters, where the crunchy exterior plays off the molten bananas within. Swirl them in a blender to make daiquiris, and puree them in your morning smoothie for a dash of richness. (Are bananas fattening? You be the judge: A medium banana has 105 calories, but because of their rich taste and high fiber content, you feel full after eating one.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bananas play well with savory ingredients, too. Add curry and bananas to chicken, and plain old poultry morphs into a tropical delight, or prepare fish with bananas, a bit of coconut milk and some herbs, a bit of cumin or ginger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It may now seem far-fetched, but the banana was once considered wildly exotic. First cultivated in ancient times in Southeast Asia, bananas arrived in Europe \u003ca href=\"http://cwh.ucsc.edu/bananas/Site/Early%20History%20of%20the%20Banana.html\">in the 15th century\u003c/a>. Until the late 19th century, the sunny yellow fruit was virtually unknown in the U.S. When bananas did arrive, they caused a huge sensation. At the 1876 Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia, the display of towering banana plants was so popular that a guard was posted to keep gawking fairgoers from pulling it apart for souvenirs, writes Virginia Scott Jenkins in \u003cem>Bananas: An American History\u003c/em>.\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't long before bananas — hundreds can hang from a single tree — became cheap and abundant. Their popularity meant that large U.S. growers, such as United Fruit Co., gobbled up land in Central America to expand their plantations to meet the growing demand. During the early 20th century, the U.S. intervened several times in order to support these economic interests. This is when the term \"banana republic\" was coined to describe a corrupt dictatorship whose government was controlled by American growers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Americans mostly know only one variety of bananas — the Cavendish. That's the familiar sweet or dessert banana. But there's also the plantain, or cooking banana, with its higher starch content. Beyond that, more than 1,000 red, blue, even black bananas with varied tastes and textures grow throughout the tropics, from Africa to South America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the familiar, reliable Cavendish is in trouble. \u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2013/11/131104092734.htm\">A virulent fungus\u003c/a>, which killed off the Gros Michel, an earlier common banana variety, poses a threat to the worldwide crop. Is there a danger that the banana Americans love could become extinct? It would \"take a long time\" before that happens, says Koeppel, and \"hopefully they'll find a replacement variety.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to storing bananas, as just about everyone knows, they typically start out a bit green, then turn a sunny yellow. After a few days, they develop brown spots, but that's when they're perfect for baking or folding into smoothies for dessert or breakfast — and that's my favorite way to give the humble banana its due.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca name=\"pie\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Banana Cream Pie\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe appeared in \u003c/em>Bon Appetit'\u003cem>s February 2003 issue, but it actually hails from McEwen's in Memphis, Tenn., whose banana cream pies are legendary. In this version, I reduced the sugar and increased the bananas for a more banana-y flavor. Though a plain pie crust is traditional, I used a chocolate cookie crumb crust instead. I find the chocolate contrasts nicely with the sweet custard.\u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78411\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1449px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananapie-3992e01975e68ab82f7620eb51e146b231980e1a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananapie-3992e01975e68ab82f7620eb51e146b231980e1a.jpg\" alt=\"Banana Cream Pie. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/ NPR\" width=\"1449\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78411\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banana Cream Pie. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/ NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 8 to 10 servings\u003c/em>\u003cbr> \u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crust\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>35 packaged chocolate cookies (such as chocolate wafers) to make 1 ½ cups crumbs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Filling\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup cornstarch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups whipping cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 large egg yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 ripe bananas, peeled, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick coins\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the crust, place the cookies, melted butter and salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Pulse the crumbs 12 to 14 times until the crumbs are the consistency of cornmeal. If you prefer finer ones, pulse one or two additional times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour the crumbs into a 9-inch pie plate. With your fingers, distribute the crumbs evenly around the pie plate. Be sure the crumbs reach all the way up the sides of the pie plate and cover the bottom completely. Press the crumbs down against the plate with the heel of your hand or with an offset spatula.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Refrigerate the crust for 1 hour or place it in the freezer for a half-hour covered tightly with plastic wrap. (I like to freeze the crust before filling it with the custard. It makes it firmer and holds the custard better.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bake the crust for 10 to 15 minutes. Cool the crust completely before filling. (You can wrap and freeze the crust for up to a month.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the filling, whisk the sugar, cornstarch and salt in a large saucepan until it is well-combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gradually whisk in a small amount of the cream, whisking thoroughly so that there are no lumps, over low heat\u003cem>. \u003c/em>Add the rest of the cream and the whole milk, whisking continuously to avoid lumps. Add the egg yolks and keep whisking. You should wind up with a smooth custard without lumps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a paring knife, carefully cut the vanilla bean vertically down the center and scrape the seeds onto a plate. Add the vanilla beans and pod to the mixture. Whisk the custard over medium-high heat until the custard thickens and boils. Be careful not to burn the custard. This should take 4 to 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the custard from the heat. Remove the vanilla pod. Whisk in the unsalted butter and the vanilla extract. Pour the custard into a large bowl and refrigerate. Let the custard cool completely in the refrigerator. It will thicken in about an hour\u003cem>. \u003c/em>(If it's too thick, thin it with a bit of cream.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you're ready to assemble the pie, whisk the custard briefly then spread 1 cup of custard over the bottom of the chocolate cookie crust. Top with half of the sliced bananas. Pour 1 cup of the custard over the bananas making sure to cover the fruit completely. Repeat until you have used up all of the custard and bananas. Chill the banana cream pie for 2 hours. Top the pie with whipped cream and decorate the pie with banana slices. Cut the pie into wedges and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca name=\"caramelized\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Caramelized Bananas With Nuts And Orange Liqueur\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This preparation, adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/recipes/caramelized_bananas.html\">a 2004 \u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/recipes/caramelized_bananas.html\">Eating Well\u003c/a>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/recipes/caramelized_bananas.html\"> recipe\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cem>, cooks the bananas quickly so they don't become mushy. The original recipe calls for rum, as do many other sautéed and baked banana recipes. But I prefer orange liqueur for the citrusy notes it brings to the dish. I like the addition of nuts for a bit of crunch.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78410\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1674px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananafoster_wide-b070b2978f1fa3965513ddd23926f522c3e22482.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananafoster_wide-b070b2978f1fa3965513ddd23926f522c3e22482.jpg\" alt=\"Caramelized Bananas With Nuts And Orange Liqueur. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1674\" height=\"940\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78410\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Caramelized Bananas With Nuts And Orange Liqueur. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 medium firm bananas, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons dark brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons honey\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup pecans or walnuts chopped very roughly\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup orange liqueur\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 teaspoon cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vanilla ice cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut the bananas in half crosswise, then again lengthwise. (This will make them easier to handle while cooking them.) Set the bananas aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the brown sugar and honey and heat until the mixture just begins to caramelize, about 2 minutes. Saute the nuts for about 2 minutes in the butter-sugar mixture until they are well coated. Remove the nuts from the pan and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the banana slices on top of the sauce, flat side facing up. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes or long enough so that the bananas have a nutty brown coating, but not so long that the bananas become mushy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turn each banana slice carefully with a spatula and cook them cut side down for 1 minute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the bananas from the heat and add the orange liqueur and cinnamon. Place the pan back on the heat. Cook the bananas for about 1 minute longer in the sauce, basting them as they cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the bananas on a serving plate or on dessert plates. Spoon the sauce on top of the bananas. Top with the nuts. Serve immediately with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca name=\"smoothie\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Banana Berry Smoothie With Almond Milk\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can easily use fresh fruit in this recipe, but then you'll want to refrigerate the smoothie to chill it. I use frozen fruit so that I can drink the smoothie right away. With all the vegans and dairy intolerant people in my family, almond milk is my choice, but you could use milk or yogurt as well.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78412\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1447px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananasmoothie-535637f6cc40c437c067e978f51bad545154000c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananasmoothie-535637f6cc40c437c067e978f51bad545154000c.jpg\" alt=\"Banana Berry Smoothie With Almond Milk. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1447\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78412\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banana Berry Smoothie With Almond Milk. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 large servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 ripe bananas cut into pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup frozen strawberries\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup frozen blueberries\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups almond milk, cold\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon honey\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup orange juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the fruit, almond milk, honey and orange juice into the container of a blender and blend until smooth. If you don't drink the smoothie immediately, place it in the refrigerator. If the smoothie becomes too thick, thin it with some additional almond milk.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca name=\"pancakes\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Whole-Wheat Blueberry Banana Pancakes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is a combination of many pancake recipes I've tried over the years. The bananas are added to what's otherwise a classic blueberry pancake recipe. You could easily substitute peaches, raspberries or any other fruit for the blueberries and regular or soy milk for all or part of the buttermilk. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78413\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1447px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananapancakes-51786c2001b66d7c9941fd7a37ea339bba04ea3c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananapancakes-51786c2001b66d7c9941fd7a37ea339bba04ea3c.jpg\" alt=\"Whole Wheat Blueberry Banana Pancakes. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1447\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78413\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Whole Wheat Blueberry Banana Pancakes. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups whole-wheat pastry flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon baking powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup buttermilk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs, lightly beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon honey\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter, melted (melt in the microwave)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 to 2 bananas sliced into 1/2-inch coins\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups blueberries\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maple syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the pancake batter, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a large bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In another bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, milk, eggs, honey and melted butter. Add to the flour mixture. Stir all the ingredients until they are just combined. Lumps in pancake batter are perfectly fine. If you overmix the batter, the pancakes will be tough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt a tablespoon of butter in a large skillet. Using a small ladle or a 1/2 cup measure, pour some batter into the pan. (If the skillet is large enough, you may be able to make as many as 4 small pancakes at a time, but be careful not to crowd them.) Drop four slices of bananas and 4 to 6 blueberries onto each pancake. When the edges have set and bubbles start to appear, flip the pancake with a spatula and cook the other side about 3 minutes. (To keep the pancakes from tearing, try to resist the temptation to flip them more than once.) Repeat this process with the remaining batter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve with maple syrup. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>About the Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Laura B. Weiss' work has appeared in numerous national publications, including \u003cem>The New York Times,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/Kitchen/History-New-England-Indian-Pudding\">Saveur\u003c/a>,\u003cem> Travel + Leisure, \u003c/em>and on the Food Network website. She's a contributor to \u003ca href=\"http://designwire.interiordesign.net/events/15485/young-chinese-designers-make-western-debut\">Interior Design\u003c/a>\u003cem>'s\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>blog\u003cem> \u003c/em>and\u003cem> \u003c/em>was an editor for the \u003cem>Zagat Long Island Restaurant Guide\u003c/em> \u003cem>2009-2011. \u003c/em>Laura is the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ice-Cream-Global-History-Reaktion/dp/1861897928\">Ice Cream: A Global History\u003c/a>. Follow Laura on Twitter, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Foodandthings\" target=\"_blank\">@foodandthings\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "DIY Kimchi: Easy to Make It Your Own",
"title": "DIY Kimchi: Easy to Make It Your Own",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78375\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/adding-paste.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78375\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/adding-paste.jpg\" alt=\"Vibrant, spicy kimchi is simple to make at home and endlessly versatile. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vibrant, spicy kimchi is simple to make at home and endlessly versatile. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It is easy to be intimidated by kimchi. Sit down at most any Korean restaurant and you will likely be greeted by an array of spicy pickled vegetables, some so unfamiliar in taste that you can’t imagine attempting to make them yourself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[contextly_sidebar id=\"7n19mZmz5dWRw8ROKPUB2mL0ejcdZF0U\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forget that negative thought. Kimchi is actually quite easy to make at home, and even easier to personalize once you’ve learned the basics. I like to make kimchi-style pickles out of just about anything. Napa cabbage and daikon radish are the most familiar, but kimchi can be made from anything from cucumbers to Brussels sprouts. Lest you think these variations skew too far from tradition, remember that kimchi is simply a Korean method of fermentation. There is an \u003ca href=\"http://www.kimchimuseum.co.kr/foreigner/english/intro.asp\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">entire museum in Seoul\u003c/a> dedicated to the myriad kimchis that exist and existed over the coarse of Korea’s history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Winter is the perfect time to ferment a batch or two of kimchi. Cabbage and root vegetables are abundant, and the cooler (emphasis on the “er”) temperatures mean that fermentation won’t progress too quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78376\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bok-choy.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78376\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bok-choy.jpg\" alt=\"I like to equal parts of bok choy and napa cabbage in my kimchi. I cut each into 2-inch pieces. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I like to equal parts of bok choy and napa cabbage in my kimchi. I cut each into 2-inch pieces. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I like to start with a 50/50 blend of bok choy (the mature heads, not the tender baby bulbs) and Napa cabbage. One head of bok choy equals about a half a head of Napa. If the extra cabbage bothers you, simply double the recipe. I chop the leaves into large, 2-inch pieces, and then rub them with a generous 2 tablespoons of kosher salt. This salt rub accomplishes a few things: it draws moisture out of the cabbage and bok choy, seasons the leaves, and it serves as protection from any “bad” bacteria that could inoculate the vegetables once fermentation begins.* I let the salted leaves rest until the leaves soften and release at least 1/2 cup of liquid. It’ll take an hour or two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78377\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/paste-ingredients.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78377\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/paste-ingredients.jpg\" alt=\"My chili paste includes, from top left and moving clockwise, Korean kochukaru chili flakes, sliced ginger, chopped Asian pear, scallion whites, salted shrimp, and whole garlic cloves. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">My chili paste includes, from top left and moving clockwise, Korean kochukaru chili flakes, sliced ginger, chopped Asian pear, scallion whites, salted shrimp, and whole garlic cloves. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While the bok choy and cabbage are resting, I prepare the remaining ingredients. First up: chili paste. This fiery, potent blend of kochukaru (Korean chili flakes), ginger, garlic, and fermented seafood is the heart of kimchi, providing catalysts for fermentation. Proportions and the choice of ingredients will vary from kimchi maker to kimchi maker; I like to make a relatively mild chili paste for a versatile finished kimchi. It is certainly possible to make vegan kimchi if you’d like. Good, umami-rich substitutions for the salted shrimp include miso, soy sauce, and ground seaweed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78379\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/processed-paste.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78379\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/processed-paste.jpg\" alt=\"I use a food processor to puree the potent mix into a thick paste. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I use a food processor to puree the potent mix into a thick paste. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For my chili paste, I process a full head’s worth of peeled garlic cloves, about an inch of fresh ginger, 1/2 cup of kochukaru, and 2 tablespoons of salted shrimp (those little pink shrimp found in massive jars at Korean supermarkets) in my food processor with about 1/4 of an Asian pear (for natural sweetness) and the white ends of a bunch of scallions. Traditionalists can use a mortar and pestle if they desire. I let the whole mess whir in the food processor until a thick, homogenous paste forms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78380\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/other-ingredients.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78380\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/other-ingredients.jpg\" alt=\"To add variety to my kimchi, I’ve added carrots, daikon radish, watermelon radish, and scallion greens. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To add variety to my kimchi, I’ve added carrots, daikon radish, watermelon radish, and scallion greens. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next, I chop the remaining kimchi ingredients. Here I look for whatever crisp, crunchy vegetables that are available at the market. For this kimchi, I’m using carrots, daikon radish, watermelon radish, and the greens from that bunch of scallion whites that went into the chili paste. I julienned the carrots and daikon, which is simply the fancy way of saying that I cut them into thin, 2-inch long strips, cut the watermelon radish into thin wedges, and cut the scallion greens into 2-inch long pieces. You can, of course, modify this list with your favorite vegetables. Use around 1 to 1 1/2 cups of each chopped vegetable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78381\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mixing-with-hands.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78381\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mixing-with-hands.jpg\" alt=\"Be sure to wear rubber gloves while massaging the chili paste into the vegetables. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Be sure to wear rubber gloves while massaging the chili paste into the vegetables. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once the bok choy and cabbage mixture has softened, I drain the leaves while reserving the extruded liquid. I mix the wilted leaves with the remaining chopped vegetables in a large bowl. Then I put on my handy rubber gloves. The first time I made kimchi, I mixed the chili paste into the cabbage with my bare hands. Big mistake. My hands burned with the fire unleashed by the capsaicin in the chili powder. Rubber gloves may not look cool, but they’re the only way to prevent chili burns. Gloves in place, add the chili paste to the vegetables and massage it into the vegetables. Make sure to coat all of the vegetables evenly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78382\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/in-jar.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78382\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/in-jar.jpg\" alt=\"Firmly pack the vegetables into a large glass jar. Caption: Kate Williams\" width=\"700\" height=\"1000\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Firmly pack the vegetables into a large glass jar. Caption: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finally, pack the vegetables into a large glass jar. I have one 2-quart jar that I like to use for kimchi, but you can use smaller jars if that’s what you have. Press the vegetables down into the jar (still wearing those gloves), and then use a chopstick or long skewer to break up any bubbles that have formed in the mixture. Now pour that reserved liquid from the bok choy mixture over the top of the pickles. This layer of salty liquid will help to reduce the amount of oxygen that reaches the kimchi fermenting below. Now close the lid loosely and set the jar in a cool, dark place to ferment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since the chili paste already contains fermented ingredients (salted shrimp) as well as sugar from the Asian pear, fermentation will begin quickly. In as soon as 12 hours, you may begin to see bubbles forming in the vegetables and a separation line between the vegetables and the kimchi liquid. Taste the kimchi every 12 hours or so. Once it begins to taste a little tangy, move the jar to the fridge. At this point, the kimchi is ready to eat, but there’s no rush. The kimchi will continue to ferment, albeit slowly, in the fridge, and you can continue to eat the kimchi throughout many stages of fermentation. In its early stages, the kimchi will be relatively mild and best eaten raw. After a few weeks, it may begin to taste funkier than you’d like; at this point, it works well in soups, stir-fries, and even grilled cheese—don’t knock it ‘till you try it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*The bacteria produced during the fermentation of kimchi are a species of lactobacillus named after the pickle. These bacteria thrive in a salt-rich environment, and are so prolific that they are able to displace any other forms of (likely more insidious) bacteria. Lactobacillus kimchi are happiest in an anaerobic, or oxygen-free, environment, so it is best to keep the fermenting vegetables away from as much oxygen as possible. This is why I like to add the salty cabbage water on top of the pickles. Why not simply seal the top of the fermenting jar? The by-product of all of this fermentation is carbon dioxide, which will build up and create pressure in the jar. While it is unlikely that a jar of kimchi fermenting at room temperature for three days will explode, I still like to be careful. Opening and closing the lid to check on the kimchi flavor will also help to release pressure in the jar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78383\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/finished-kimchi-2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78383\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/finished-kimchi-2.jpg\" alt=\"DIY seasonal kimchi with radishes and carrots. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">DIY seasonal kimchi with radishes and carrots. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: DIY Kimchi\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note: \u003c/strong>To make vegan kimchi, you can substitute 2 tablespoons white miso paste or 1 tablespoon soy sauce for the salted shrimp. Kochukaru and salted shrimp are available at Korean supermarkets like \u003ca href=\"http://www.koreanaplaza.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Koreana Plaza \u003c/a> in Oakland or \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/woo-ri-food-market-san-francisco\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Woori Food Market\u003c/a> in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 large head bok choy, sliced into 2-inch pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 large head napa cabbage, sliced into 2-inch pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 head (10 to 12 cloves) garlic, separated into cloves and peeled\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 bunch (8 to 10) scallions, white parts chopped, green parts sliced into 2-inch lengths\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 Asian pear, peeled and chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup Korean chili flakes (kochukaru)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons salted shrimp\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced thin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 carrots, peeled and julienned\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 (4-inch long) daikon radish, peeled and julliened\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 watermelon radish, halved and sliced into thin wedges\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Equipment\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Food processor\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 (2-quart) glass jar or 2 (1-quart) glass jars\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 chopstick\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Combine the bok choy and cabbage with kosher salt in a large bowl. Rub the salt into the leaves, squeezing gently, until the leaves begin to wilt. Let mixture rest until the bok choy and cabbage leaves soften and release at least 1/2 cup of liquid, 1 to 2 hours.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Meanwhile, make the chili paste by combining the garlic cloves, scallion whites, Asian pear, chili flakes, salted shrimp, and ginger until the mixture forms a paste.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Once the bok choy and cabbage have softened, drain the leaves, reserving the liquid. Mix the wilted greens with the scallion tops, carrots, daikon, and watermelon radish in a large bowl.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While wearing rubber gloves, mix the chili paste into the vegetables using your hands. Massage the paste into the vegetables. Firmly pack the vegetables into a 2-quart glass jar. Use a chopstick to pop any bubbles that have formed in the jar. Pour released cabbage liquid over the top of the vegetables to cover.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Lightly close jar and set in a cool, dark place until the vegetables begin to ferment, 1 to 3 days. Bubbles will form in the jar and the vegetables may separate from the liquid. Move the kimchi to the refrigerator. The kimchi can be served as soon as it ferments or until it no longer tastes appealing. Old kimchi can be cooked into soup or added to stir-fries.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "DIY Korean kimchi pickles may \u003cem>sound\u003c/em> intimidating, but the process is far simpler than it appears. Plus, kimchi is endlessly variable, and a perfect use for winter produce. Kate Williams will show you how easy it is to bring these spicy, tangy pickles into your home kitchen",
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"description": "DIY Korean kimchi pickles may sound intimidating, but the process is far simpler than it appears. Plus, kimchi is endlessly variable, and a perfect use for winter produce. Kate Williams will show you how easy it is to bring these spicy, tangy pickles into your home kitchen",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78375\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/adding-paste.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78375\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/adding-paste.jpg\" alt=\"Vibrant, spicy kimchi is simple to make at home and endlessly versatile. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vibrant, spicy kimchi is simple to make at home and endlessly versatile. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It is easy to be intimidated by kimchi. Sit down at most any Korean restaurant and you will likely be greeted by an array of spicy pickled vegetables, some so unfamiliar in taste that you can’t imagine attempting to make them yourself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forget that negative thought. Kimchi is actually quite easy to make at home, and even easier to personalize once you’ve learned the basics. I like to make kimchi-style pickles out of just about anything. Napa cabbage and daikon radish are the most familiar, but kimchi can be made from anything from cucumbers to Brussels sprouts. Lest you think these variations skew too far from tradition, remember that kimchi is simply a Korean method of fermentation. There is an \u003ca href=\"http://www.kimchimuseum.co.kr/foreigner/english/intro.asp\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">entire museum in Seoul\u003c/a> dedicated to the myriad kimchis that exist and existed over the coarse of Korea’s history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Winter is the perfect time to ferment a batch or two of kimchi. Cabbage and root vegetables are abundant, and the cooler (emphasis on the “er”) temperatures mean that fermentation won’t progress too quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78376\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bok-choy.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78376\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bok-choy.jpg\" alt=\"I like to equal parts of bok choy and napa cabbage in my kimchi. I cut each into 2-inch pieces. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I like to equal parts of bok choy and napa cabbage in my kimchi. I cut each into 2-inch pieces. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I like to start with a 50/50 blend of bok choy (the mature heads, not the tender baby bulbs) and Napa cabbage. One head of bok choy equals about a half a head of Napa. If the extra cabbage bothers you, simply double the recipe. I chop the leaves into large, 2-inch pieces, and then rub them with a generous 2 tablespoons of kosher salt. This salt rub accomplishes a few things: it draws moisture out of the cabbage and bok choy, seasons the leaves, and it serves as protection from any “bad” bacteria that could inoculate the vegetables once fermentation begins.* I let the salted leaves rest until the leaves soften and release at least 1/2 cup of liquid. It’ll take an hour or two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78377\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/paste-ingredients.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78377\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/paste-ingredients.jpg\" alt=\"My chili paste includes, from top left and moving clockwise, Korean kochukaru chili flakes, sliced ginger, chopped Asian pear, scallion whites, salted shrimp, and whole garlic cloves. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">My chili paste includes, from top left and moving clockwise, Korean kochukaru chili flakes, sliced ginger, chopped Asian pear, scallion whites, salted shrimp, and whole garlic cloves. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While the bok choy and cabbage are resting, I prepare the remaining ingredients. First up: chili paste. This fiery, potent blend of kochukaru (Korean chili flakes), ginger, garlic, and fermented seafood is the heart of kimchi, providing catalysts for fermentation. Proportions and the choice of ingredients will vary from kimchi maker to kimchi maker; I like to make a relatively mild chili paste for a versatile finished kimchi. It is certainly possible to make vegan kimchi if you’d like. Good, umami-rich substitutions for the salted shrimp include miso, soy sauce, and ground seaweed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78379\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/processed-paste.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78379\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/processed-paste.jpg\" alt=\"I use a food processor to puree the potent mix into a thick paste. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">I use a food processor to puree the potent mix into a thick paste. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For my chili paste, I process a full head’s worth of peeled garlic cloves, about an inch of fresh ginger, 1/2 cup of kochukaru, and 2 tablespoons of salted shrimp (those little pink shrimp found in massive jars at Korean supermarkets) in my food processor with about 1/4 of an Asian pear (for natural sweetness) and the white ends of a bunch of scallions. Traditionalists can use a mortar and pestle if they desire. I let the whole mess whir in the food processor until a thick, homogenous paste forms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78380\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/other-ingredients.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78380\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/other-ingredients.jpg\" alt=\"To add variety to my kimchi, I’ve added carrots, daikon radish, watermelon radish, and scallion greens. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To add variety to my kimchi, I’ve added carrots, daikon radish, watermelon radish, and scallion greens. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next, I chop the remaining kimchi ingredients. Here I look for whatever crisp, crunchy vegetables that are available at the market. For this kimchi, I’m using carrots, daikon radish, watermelon radish, and the greens from that bunch of scallion whites that went into the chili paste. I julienned the carrots and daikon, which is simply the fancy way of saying that I cut them into thin, 2-inch long strips, cut the watermelon radish into thin wedges, and cut the scallion greens into 2-inch long pieces. You can, of course, modify this list with your favorite vegetables. Use around 1 to 1 1/2 cups of each chopped vegetable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78381\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mixing-with-hands.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78381\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/mixing-with-hands.jpg\" alt=\"Be sure to wear rubber gloves while massaging the chili paste into the vegetables. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Be sure to wear rubber gloves while massaging the chili paste into the vegetables. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once the bok choy and cabbage mixture has softened, I drain the leaves while reserving the extruded liquid. I mix the wilted leaves with the remaining chopped vegetables in a large bowl. Then I put on my handy rubber gloves. The first time I made kimchi, I mixed the chili paste into the cabbage with my bare hands. Big mistake. My hands burned with the fire unleashed by the capsaicin in the chili powder. Rubber gloves may not look cool, but they’re the only way to prevent chili burns. Gloves in place, add the chili paste to the vegetables and massage it into the vegetables. Make sure to coat all of the vegetables evenly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78382\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/in-jar.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78382\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/in-jar.jpg\" alt=\"Firmly pack the vegetables into a large glass jar. Caption: Kate Williams\" width=\"700\" height=\"1000\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Firmly pack the vegetables into a large glass jar. Caption: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finally, pack the vegetables into a large glass jar. I have one 2-quart jar that I like to use for kimchi, but you can use smaller jars if that’s what you have. Press the vegetables down into the jar (still wearing those gloves), and then use a chopstick or long skewer to break up any bubbles that have formed in the mixture. Now pour that reserved liquid from the bok choy mixture over the top of the pickles. This layer of salty liquid will help to reduce the amount of oxygen that reaches the kimchi fermenting below. Now close the lid loosely and set the jar in a cool, dark place to ferment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since the chili paste already contains fermented ingredients (salted shrimp) as well as sugar from the Asian pear, fermentation will begin quickly. In as soon as 12 hours, you may begin to see bubbles forming in the vegetables and a separation line between the vegetables and the kimchi liquid. Taste the kimchi every 12 hours or so. Once it begins to taste a little tangy, move the jar to the fridge. At this point, the kimchi is ready to eat, but there’s no rush. The kimchi will continue to ferment, albeit slowly, in the fridge, and you can continue to eat the kimchi throughout many stages of fermentation. In its early stages, the kimchi will be relatively mild and best eaten raw. After a few weeks, it may begin to taste funkier than you’d like; at this point, it works well in soups, stir-fries, and even grilled cheese—don’t knock it ‘till you try it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*The bacteria produced during the fermentation of kimchi are a species of lactobacillus named after the pickle. These bacteria thrive in a salt-rich environment, and are so prolific that they are able to displace any other forms of (likely more insidious) bacteria. Lactobacillus kimchi are happiest in an anaerobic, or oxygen-free, environment, so it is best to keep the fermenting vegetables away from as much oxygen as possible. This is why I like to add the salty cabbage water on top of the pickles. Why not simply seal the top of the fermenting jar? The by-product of all of this fermentation is carbon dioxide, which will build up and create pressure in the jar. While it is unlikely that a jar of kimchi fermenting at room temperature for three days will explode, I still like to be careful. Opening and closing the lid to check on the kimchi flavor will also help to release pressure in the jar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78383\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/finished-kimchi-2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78383\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/finished-kimchi-2.jpg\" alt=\"DIY seasonal kimchi with radishes and carrots. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">DIY seasonal kimchi with radishes and carrots. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: DIY Kimchi\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note: \u003c/strong>To make vegan kimchi, you can substitute 2 tablespoons white miso paste or 1 tablespoon soy sauce for the salted shrimp. Kochukaru and salted shrimp are available at Korean supermarkets like \u003ca href=\"http://www.koreanaplaza.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Koreana Plaza \u003c/a> in Oakland or \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/woo-ri-food-market-san-francisco\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Woori Food Market\u003c/a> in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 large head bok choy, sliced into 2-inch pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 large head napa cabbage, sliced into 2-inch pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 head (10 to 12 cloves) garlic, separated into cloves and peeled\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 bunch (8 to 10) scallions, white parts chopped, green parts sliced into 2-inch lengths\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 Asian pear, peeled and chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup Korean chili flakes (kochukaru)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons salted shrimp\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced thin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 carrots, peeled and julienned\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 (4-inch long) daikon radish, peeled and julliened\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 watermelon radish, halved and sliced into thin wedges\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Equipment\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Food processor\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 (2-quart) glass jar or 2 (1-quart) glass jars\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 chopstick\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Combine the bok choy and cabbage with kosher salt in a large bowl. Rub the salt into the leaves, squeezing gently, until the leaves begin to wilt. Let mixture rest until the bok choy and cabbage leaves soften and release at least 1/2 cup of liquid, 1 to 2 hours.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Meanwhile, make the chili paste by combining the garlic cloves, scallion whites, Asian pear, chili flakes, salted shrimp, and ginger until the mixture forms a paste.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Once the bok choy and cabbage have softened, drain the leaves, reserving the liquid. Mix the wilted greens with the scallion tops, carrots, daikon, and watermelon radish in a large bowl.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While wearing rubber gloves, mix the chili paste into the vegetables using your hands. Massage the paste into the vegetables. Firmly pack the vegetables into a 2-quart glass jar. Use a chopstick to pop any bubbles that have formed in the jar. Pour released cabbage liquid over the top of the vegetables to cover.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Lightly close jar and set in a cool, dark place until the vegetables begin to ferment, 1 to 3 days. Bubbles will form in the jar and the vegetables may separate from the liquid. Move the kimchi to the refrigerator. The kimchi can be served as soon as it ferments or until it no longer tastes appealing. Old kimchi can be cooked into soup or added to stir-fries.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "What Honest Abe's Appetite Tells Us About His Life",
"title": "What Honest Abe's Appetite Tells Us About His Life",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2642901-24f0606d7a73753fde9c18c538d23b7083194f05.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78323\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2642901-24f0606d7a73753fde9c18c538d23b7083194f05.jpg\" alt=\"Abraham Lincoln, the 16th president, used to cook alongside his wife. \" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/17/277059262/what-honest-abes-appetite-tells-us-about-his-life\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/17/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78328\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 186px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/9781588344557_custom-51304644aef49084fb550af931f9a48e37abfdb6-s2-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-78328\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/9781588344557_custom-51304644aef49084fb550af931f9a48e37abfdb6-s2-c85-186x290.jpg\" alt=\"Abraham Lincoln in the Kitchen: A Culinary View of Lincoln's Life and Times by Rae Katherine Eighmey\" width=\"186\" height=\"290\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Abraham Lincoln in the Kitchen: A Culinary View of Lincoln's Life and Times by Rae Katherine Eighmey\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Most people know Abraham Lincoln for his achievements as president. He issued the Emancipation Proclamation and held the nation together through the trauma of the Civil War. His Gettysburg Address is one of the best known in American history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what you might not know is that Lincoln cooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From his childhood to his days in the White House, food played an integral part in shaping Lincoln's life, food historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.cookhistoric.com/Site/Home.html\">Rae Katherine Eighmey\u003c/a> tells \u003cem>Tell Me More's\u003c/em> Michel Martin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eighmey's new book, \u003cem>Abraham Lincoln in the Kitchen: A Culinary View of Lincoln's Life and Times\u003c/em>, looks at our 16th president's life through the extraordinary stories of what he ate, cooked and served, along with recipes modified for the modern kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"By looking at his life through the foods that he ate or may have eaten, or was exposed to, you're able to build a picture of him as a human man and as a family man,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What piqued Eighmey's interest was a simple tale of Lincoln putting on a blue apron after a day's work at his law office and helping his wife cook dinner. From there, Eighmey investigated stories of him cooking for the family after his mother died, cooking for his brothers as they journeyed down to New Orleans on a flatboat and of how the famous \u003ca href=\"http://voices.washingtonpost.com/mighty-appetite/2009/01/mary_todd_lincolns_white_cake.html\">Mary Todd Lincoln\u003c/a> white almond cake came to be. (Note: Modern recipes for the dessert are far easier than the original.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lincoln's cooking skills, says Eighmey, were part and parcel of the survival skills he needed during his hardscrabble upbringing. \"Like any pioneering child, you live in a one-room log cabin, you are essentially raised in the kitchen. When Lincoln's mother died [when he was 9], he and his sister had to take over taking care of themselves and their father.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One culinary moment that Eighmey says particularly captures Lincoln's personality involved Sen. Stephen Douglas and some gingerbread man cookies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During one of their famous debates — which helped catapult Lincoln into the national spotlight and eventually, the presidency — Lincoln grew tired of the constant false praises from Douglas. So, to make him stop, Lincoln told a story from his childhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He talked about how he once shared gingerbread cookies his mother made with a neighboring boy, who then told him that \"there's nobody who likes gingerbread as much as I do, and nobody who gets as little as I do.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So Lincoln was contrasting that to how he doesn't get much flattery, and here Douglas was heaping it on him, you know, falsely,\" Eighmey says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the story doesn't just end there. In a way, Eighmey is also a detective, analyzing the stories to unravel recipes that Lincoln and his family likely used back in the 1800s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the gingerbread story, Eighmey says, the clues were Lincoln's description of the cookies: that they were made from sorghum flour and ginger, and that he could stuff them in his pocket, which meant that the cookies were sturdy in texture. Using that as the starting point, she sifted through old cookbooks to find the closest recipe that fit those elements.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After Lincoln died, Eighmey says, many mourning Americans began to \"savor his life through food,\" giving rise to recipes in his honor such as \"the Lincoln cake.\" There are several different cake recipes with this name from that era, she says. (Her book includes one for a large, lightly fruited cake.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what do you eat if you want to honor Lincoln's life this President's Day? Well, Eighmey suggest apples, which were his favorite food, and corn cakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He was said to have eaten those as fast as two women could prepare them,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/277062068/abraham-lincoln-in-the-kitchen-a-culinary-view-of-lincolns-life-and-times\" target=\"_blank\">More on this book from NPR\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/277062068/abraham-lincoln-in-the-kitchen-a-culinary-view-of-lincolns-life-and-times#excerpt\" target=\"_blank\">Read an excerpt\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Abraham Lincoln is known as one of America's greatest presidents. Turns out, he was also a cook who used to join his wife in the kitchen after work. In her new culinary biography of Lincoln, a food historian walks us through his life with stories — and recipes — of what he ate, cooked and served.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2642901-24f0606d7a73753fde9c18c538d23b7083194f05.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-78323\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/2642901-24f0606d7a73753fde9c18c538d23b7083194f05.jpg\" alt=\"Abraham Lincoln, the 16th president, used to cook alongside his wife. \" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/17/277059262/what-honest-abes-appetite-tells-us-about-his-life\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/17/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78328\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 186px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/9781588344557_custom-51304644aef49084fb550af931f9a48e37abfdb6-s2-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-78328\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/9781588344557_custom-51304644aef49084fb550af931f9a48e37abfdb6-s2-c85-186x290.jpg\" alt=\"Abraham Lincoln in the Kitchen: A Culinary View of Lincoln's Life and Times by Rae Katherine Eighmey\" width=\"186\" height=\"290\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Abraham Lincoln in the Kitchen: A Culinary View of Lincoln's Life and Times by Rae Katherine Eighmey\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Most people know Abraham Lincoln for his achievements as president. He issued the Emancipation Proclamation and held the nation together through the trauma of the Civil War. His Gettysburg Address is one of the best known in American history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what you might not know is that Lincoln cooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From his childhood to his days in the White House, food played an integral part in shaping Lincoln's life, food historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.cookhistoric.com/Site/Home.html\">Rae Katherine Eighmey\u003c/a> tells \u003cem>Tell Me More's\u003c/em> Michel Martin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eighmey's new book, \u003cem>Abraham Lincoln in the Kitchen: A Culinary View of Lincoln's Life and Times\u003c/em>, looks at our 16th president's life through the extraordinary stories of what he ate, cooked and served, along with recipes modified for the modern kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"By looking at his life through the foods that he ate or may have eaten, or was exposed to, you're able to build a picture of him as a human man and as a family man,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What piqued Eighmey's interest was a simple tale of Lincoln putting on a blue apron after a day's work at his law office and helping his wife cook dinner. From there, Eighmey investigated stories of him cooking for the family after his mother died, cooking for his brothers as they journeyed down to New Orleans on a flatboat and of how the famous \u003ca href=\"http://voices.washingtonpost.com/mighty-appetite/2009/01/mary_todd_lincolns_white_cake.html\">Mary Todd Lincoln\u003c/a> white almond cake came to be. (Note: Modern recipes for the dessert are far easier than the original.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lincoln's cooking skills, says Eighmey, were part and parcel of the survival skills he needed during his hardscrabble upbringing. \"Like any pioneering child, you live in a one-room log cabin, you are essentially raised in the kitchen. When Lincoln's mother died [when he was 9], he and his sister had to take over taking care of themselves and their father.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One culinary moment that Eighmey says particularly captures Lincoln's personality involved Sen. Stephen Douglas and some gingerbread man cookies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During one of their famous debates — which helped catapult Lincoln into the national spotlight and eventually, the presidency — Lincoln grew tired of the constant false praises from Douglas. So, to make him stop, Lincoln told a story from his childhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He talked about how he once shared gingerbread cookies his mother made with a neighboring boy, who then told him that \"there's nobody who likes gingerbread as much as I do, and nobody who gets as little as I do.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So Lincoln was contrasting that to how he doesn't get much flattery, and here Douglas was heaping it on him, you know, falsely,\" Eighmey says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the story doesn't just end there. In a way, Eighmey is also a detective, analyzing the stories to unravel recipes that Lincoln and his family likely used back in the 1800s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the gingerbread story, Eighmey says, the clues were Lincoln's description of the cookies: that they were made from sorghum flour and ginger, and that he could stuff them in his pocket, which meant that the cookies were sturdy in texture. Using that as the starting point, she sifted through old cookbooks to find the closest recipe that fit those elements.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After Lincoln died, Eighmey says, many mourning Americans began to \"savor his life through food,\" giving rise to recipes in his honor such as \"the Lincoln cake.\" There are several different cake recipes with this name from that era, she says. (Her book includes one for a large, lightly fruited cake.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what do you eat if you want to honor Lincoln's life this President's Day? Well, Eighmey suggest apples, which were his favorite food, and corn cakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He was said to have eaten those as fast as two women could prepare them,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/277062068/abraham-lincoln-in-the-kitchen-a-culinary-view-of-lincolns-life-and-times\" target=\"_blank\">More on this book from NPR\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/277062068/abraham-lincoln-in-the-kitchen-a-culinary-view-of-lincolns-life-and-times#excerpt\" target=\"_blank\">Read an excerpt\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Valentine Hearts That Are Meant To Be Broken",
"title": "Valentine Hearts That Are Meant To Be Broken",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78226\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/valentine-s-overall-1_enl-84b3950b7ec257b4c02a274f1d4d238ddb899c2a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/valentine-s-overall-1_enl-84b3950b7ec257b4c02a274f1d4d238ddb899c2a-1024x686.jpg\" alt=\"An assortment of marbled Valentine's cookies. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\" width=\"1024\" height=\"686\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78226\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An assortment of marbled Valentine's cookies. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\" target=\"_blank\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/02/12/275356369/valentine-hearts-that-are-meant-to-be-broken\" target=\"_blank\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/12/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#gingerbread\">Thin Crisp Gingerbread Cookies\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#shortbread\">Shortbread Hearts\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#icing\">Royal Icing\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In first grade, my heart was stolen by Mark, who sat next to me and had an advanced phonics book (which I also craved). Then there were Peter, Eddie, Raja and Michael. These serial crushes continued right on up through my early 20s, at a rate of approximately three a year. Boys. I fell for their incipient mustaches, their bad attitudes and foul mouths, their poor poetry and bass guitars, their careless humor. I saw their swagger for what it was, but I loved it anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you're a kid, conversation hearts, waxy chocolates and powdery-smelling carnations are the currency of Valentine's Day. (That and a broken heart or two.) But a few years ago, my young daughter and I started a new tradition — one a whole lot tastier, and not dependent on the fickle affection of boys. We started baking gingerbread Valentine hearts — magnificent, ephemeral delights we learned to decorate from a book (Julia Usher's \u003cem>Cookie Swap\u003c/em>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now Valentine's brings happy afternoons in the kitchen while the late-winter sun slants in, illuminating the dots and paisleys of our edible treasures. We marble the wet icing with toothpicks or darning needles and stud them with dragées and luster dust. We brush-embroider lines of icing into flower petals with a sheared-off old paintbox brush. We labor over every cookie, just as if it weren't going to vanish in two bites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we work, I surreptitiously watch my 7-year-old, so like me in so many ways, for symptoms of the romantic affliction, for signs that a Hunter or Oscar or Elijah has made away with her heart. I never say a word, but I look for sighs, for the chin tilted on the palm, the little face staring out the window — telltale evidence of mooning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Zoe's brow is furrowed in concentration as she wields the toothpick, the craft brush, the parchment cone. Beneath her hands psychedelic patterns bloom, and when she sighs, it's a sigh of satisfaction. \"Look how beautiful, Mama!\" Then, more pragmatically, \"When can we eat them?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My daughter's face is the face of a future heartbreaker — I see it all written there, in the cheekbones, and there, in the limpid eyes. But for now, she's just a kid. I can no more protect her from the storms and sunlight of romance than I can protect these Valentine hearts from being devoured on the spot and left in a million crumbs. Nor do I want to, for hearts are made to be filled and broken, mended and made new again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After we finish, I regard the hearts, in all their jeweled splendor, for one long moment. Really, they're too beautiful to eat. But then I do anyway, snapping each brittle heart in half, letting the ginger sting my tongue. A flash of spice and a moment's pleasure, and it's gone. Only the memories, more sweet than bitter, remain.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"gingerbread\">\u003c/a>Thin Crisp Gingerbread Cookies\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These cookies, from Cook's Illustrated's \u003c/em>The New Best Recipe\u003cem> (America's Test Kitchen, 2004) yield a waferlike, not-too-sweet ginger snap that makes a perfect canvas for your icing masterpieces. And they can be made with either a food processor or an electric mixer.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78228\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/marbling_enl-8c947602b11b0e97e3ee3dbff8230f0396ed266b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/marbling_enl-8c947602b11b0e97e3ee3dbff8230f0396ed266b-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"Marbled royal icing on gingerbread. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78228\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marbled royal icing on gingerbread. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes approximately 5 dozen cookies\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon ground cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon ground cloves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened but still cool, cut into 12 pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup light or dark molasses\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a food processor, process the flour, brown sugar, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, cloves and salt until combined, about 10 seconds. Scatter the butter pieces over the flour mixture and process until the mixture is sandy and resembles very fine meal about 15 seconds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the machine running, gradually add the molasses and milk; process until the dough is evenly moistened and forms a soft mass, about 10 seconds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alternatively, with an electric mixer, stir together the flour, brown sugar, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, cloves and salt at low speed until combined, about 30 seconds. Stop the mixer and add the butter pieces; mix at medium-low speed until the mixture is sandy and resembles fine meal, about 1 1/2 minutes. Reduce the speed to low and, with the mixer running, gradually add the molasses and milk; mix until the dough is evenly moistened, about 20 seconds. Increase the speed to medium and mix until thoroughly combined, about 10 seconds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scrape the dough onto a work surface; divide it in quarters. Working with one portion at a time, roll the dough 1/8-inch thick between 2 large sheets of parchment paper. Leaving the dough sandwiched between the parchment, stack the dough on a baking sheet and freeze until firm, 15 to 20 minutes. (Alternatively, refrigerate the dough for 2 hours or overnight.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Adjust the oven racks to the upper and lower-middle positions and heat the oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or spray them with nonstick cooking spray.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove 1 dough sheet from the freezer; place on the work surface. Peel off the top parchment sheet and gently lay it back in place. Flip the dough over; peel off and discard the second parchment sheet. Cut the dough into 2- to 3-inch gingerbread cookies, transferring the shapes to the prepared baking sheets with a wide metal spatula and spacing them 3/4 inch apart; set the scraps aside. Repeat with the remaining dough until the baking sheets are full.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bake the cookies until set in the centers and the dough barely retains an imprint when touched very gently with a fingertip, 10 to 15 minutes, rotating the baking sheets front to back and switching positions top to bottom halfway through the baking time. Do not overbake. Cool the cookies on the sheets 2 minutes, then remove the cookies with a wide metal spatula to a wire rack; cool to room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gather the scraps; repeat the rolling, cutting and baking steps. Once the cookies have cooled (which will happen quickly, as they're so thin), ice them.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"shortbread\">\u003c/a>Shortbread Hearts\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These are liberally adapted from a recipe in Sheila Lukins and Julee Rosso's venerable \u003c/em>The Silver Palate\u003cem> (Workman, 1982). They freeze well but are quite brittle, so work gently when you're icing.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78229\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 745px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/shortbread-hearts_custom-cd8d10ede49186338412b60b8ee2b7b5a54eb244.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/shortbread-hearts_custom-cd8d10ede49186338412b60b8ee2b7b5a54eb244-745x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Shortbread Hearts. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\" width=\"745\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78229\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shortbread Hearts. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 dozen cookies\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2/3 cup confectioner's sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, sifted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon vanilla\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream butter and confectioner's sugar together until light. Sift flour and salt together and add to the creamed mixture. Add vanilla and blend thoroughly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scrape the dough onto a floured work surface, divide in half, and flatten into disks about 1/2-inch thick. Wrap in plastic and set in the freezer until slightly firm (but not rock hard), about 5 to10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roll the dough out to slightly less than 1/4-inch thick. Cut out cookies with a 2 1/2- to 3-inch heart-shaped cookie cutter. Place on parchment-paper-lined baking sheet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 325 degrees. While the oven's heating, set the cookies someplace cold — either the refrigerator — or outside, if you don't have room and the air temperature outside is cooler. Bake the cookies for 10 to 12 minutes or until just cooked through — they needn't be colored or browned. Cool on a rack.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"icing\">\u003c/a>Royal Icing\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This basic royal icing from \u003c/em>Cookie Swap\u003cem> by Julia Usher (Gibbs Smith, 2009) has been my standby for years. I've used both raw egg whites (saved in the freezer after making ice cream or \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/03/30/134953739/the-other-half-of-the-egg\">other yolk-intensive projects\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cem>) and meringue powder, which is widely available at craft stores and baking supply sites. I think the raw whites may taste a little better, but the meringue powder has the advantages of being pasteurized and easy to work with.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78227\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/valentine-s-overall-3_custom-5df80ae57fd74800f4c2e8d7f24449967d0322f3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/valentine-s-overall-3_custom-5df80ae57fd74800f4c2e8d7f24449967d0322f3-1024x667.jpg\" alt=\"An assortment of iced gingerbread cookies for Valentine's Day. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\" width=\"1024\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78227\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An assortment of iced gingerbread cookies for Valentine's Day. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 4 1/2 cups\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds powdered sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 11 tablespoons pasteurized whites (or 5 large egg whites)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flavoring to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soft gel food coloring, to desired shade (for example, Chefmaster Liqua-Gel)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the powdered sugar and cream of tartar together in the bowl of an electric mixer. Stir in the egg whites by hand to moisten the sugar. Fit the electric mixer with a whip attachment and beat the mixture on low speed to evenly distribute the egg whites. Turn the mixer to medium-high speed and continue to beat about 2 minutes, until the icing is silky and very white. (The icing will lighten and thicken as you beat it.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beat in flavoring and/or food coloring, if desired. Mix well and thin with water\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>to desired consistency before using.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Marbling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Extensive instructions, with photos, can be found at Julia Usher's excellent website, \u003ca href=\"http://cookieconnection.juliausher.com/\">Cookie Connection\u003c/a>. There you can find guidance on beadwork, piping, stenciling and flooding, along with photo galleries of cookies much more beautiful than mine. My own instructions, given here, are just a sketch to get you started.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You'll need 3 different colors of icing, thinned to the consistency of Elmer's Glue or slightly thicker. (That works out to about 2 to 3 tablespoons of water per cup of icing; add drop by drop as you get close. You can thicken the icing back up with confectioner's sugar.) Put one color in an open tub and the other two in parchment paper cones or piping bags with a small round pastry tip. Or, if you want maximum color combinations, divide your three colors so that you have a tub and a piping bag for each color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coat the whole cookie with one color of icing, spreading carefully but quickly with the back of a craft paintbrush.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pipe lines or dots of contrasting color icing onto the wet topcoat. Drag a toothpick or darning needle straight across the lines, reversing direction when you reach the cookie's edge, to create a marbled effect. For miniature hearts, drag your needle through dots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Brush Embroidery\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Topcoat the cookie with icing in whatever color you like and let dry, preferably overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the brush embroidery, you'll need a thicker, slightly pasty consistency of icing (thinned with about 1 to 2 tablespoons of water per cup of icing). Once you've got the consistency to your satisfaction, fill a parchment paper cone or piping bag fitted with a small round tip with the icing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pipe curved petal outlines onto the cookie. Dampen a very small paintbrush (preferably square-tipped) and blot the excess water from the tip. Brush the icing toward the center of the petal to create a delicate shaded effect; finish by piping small dots at the center or in the background as desired. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>About The Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>T. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe,\u003c/em> NPR.org and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a> and has just released the \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/cookshelf-cookbook-rating/id638554845?mt=8\">CookShelf cookbook-rating app\u003c/a>, which is available on iPhone, iPad and Android devices. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "These edible treasures would be too pretty to eat — if they weren't so delicious. Bake a batch of gingerbread or shortbread hearts, bedeck them with royal icing — and if it suits your mood, break them in half before devouring them.",
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"description": "These edible treasures would be too pretty to eat — if they weren't so delicious. Bake a batch of gingerbread or shortbread hearts, bedeck them with royal icing — and if it suits your mood, break them in half before devouring them.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78226\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/valentine-s-overall-1_enl-84b3950b7ec257b4c02a274f1d4d238ddb899c2a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/valentine-s-overall-1_enl-84b3950b7ec257b4c02a274f1d4d238ddb899c2a-1024x686.jpg\" alt=\"An assortment of marbled Valentine's cookies. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\" width=\"1024\" height=\"686\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78226\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An assortment of marbled Valentine's cookies. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\" target=\"_blank\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/02/12/275356369/valentine-hearts-that-are-meant-to-be-broken\" target=\"_blank\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/12/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#gingerbread\">Thin Crisp Gingerbread Cookies\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#shortbread\">Shortbread Hearts\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#icing\">Royal Icing\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In first grade, my heart was stolen by Mark, who sat next to me and had an advanced phonics book (which I also craved). Then there were Peter, Eddie, Raja and Michael. These serial crushes continued right on up through my early 20s, at a rate of approximately three a year. Boys. I fell for their incipient mustaches, their bad attitudes and foul mouths, their poor poetry and bass guitars, their careless humor. I saw their swagger for what it was, but I loved it anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you're a kid, conversation hearts, waxy chocolates and powdery-smelling carnations are the currency of Valentine's Day. (That and a broken heart or two.) But a few years ago, my young daughter and I started a new tradition — one a whole lot tastier, and not dependent on the fickle affection of boys. We started baking gingerbread Valentine hearts — magnificent, ephemeral delights we learned to decorate from a book (Julia Usher's \u003cem>Cookie Swap\u003c/em>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now Valentine's brings happy afternoons in the kitchen while the late-winter sun slants in, illuminating the dots and paisleys of our edible treasures. We marble the wet icing with toothpicks or darning needles and stud them with dragées and luster dust. We brush-embroider lines of icing into flower petals with a sheared-off old paintbox brush. We labor over every cookie, just as if it weren't going to vanish in two bites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we work, I surreptitiously watch my 7-year-old, so like me in so many ways, for symptoms of the romantic affliction, for signs that a Hunter or Oscar or Elijah has made away with her heart. I never say a word, but I look for sighs, for the chin tilted on the palm, the little face staring out the window — telltale evidence of mooning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Zoe's brow is furrowed in concentration as she wields the toothpick, the craft brush, the parchment cone. Beneath her hands psychedelic patterns bloom, and when she sighs, it's a sigh of satisfaction. \"Look how beautiful, Mama!\" Then, more pragmatically, \"When can we eat them?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My daughter's face is the face of a future heartbreaker — I see it all written there, in the cheekbones, and there, in the limpid eyes. But for now, she's just a kid. I can no more protect her from the storms and sunlight of romance than I can protect these Valentine hearts from being devoured on the spot and left in a million crumbs. Nor do I want to, for hearts are made to be filled and broken, mended and made new again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After we finish, I regard the hearts, in all their jeweled splendor, for one long moment. Really, they're too beautiful to eat. But then I do anyway, snapping each brittle heart in half, letting the ginger sting my tongue. A flash of spice and a moment's pleasure, and it's gone. Only the memories, more sweet than bitter, remain.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"gingerbread\">\u003c/a>Thin Crisp Gingerbread Cookies\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These cookies, from Cook's Illustrated's \u003c/em>The New Best Recipe\u003cem> (America's Test Kitchen, 2004) yield a waferlike, not-too-sweet ginger snap that makes a perfect canvas for your icing masterpieces. And they can be made with either a food processor or an electric mixer.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78228\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/marbling_enl-8c947602b11b0e97e3ee3dbff8230f0396ed266b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/marbling_enl-8c947602b11b0e97e3ee3dbff8230f0396ed266b-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"Marbled royal icing on gingerbread. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78228\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marbled royal icing on gingerbread. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes approximately 5 dozen cookies\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon ground cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon ground cloves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened but still cool, cut into 12 pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup light or dark molasses\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a food processor, process the flour, brown sugar, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, cloves and salt until combined, about 10 seconds. Scatter the butter pieces over the flour mixture and process until the mixture is sandy and resembles very fine meal about 15 seconds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the machine running, gradually add the molasses and milk; process until the dough is evenly moistened and forms a soft mass, about 10 seconds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alternatively, with an electric mixer, stir together the flour, brown sugar, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, cloves and salt at low speed until combined, about 30 seconds. Stop the mixer and add the butter pieces; mix at medium-low speed until the mixture is sandy and resembles fine meal, about 1 1/2 minutes. Reduce the speed to low and, with the mixer running, gradually add the molasses and milk; mix until the dough is evenly moistened, about 20 seconds. Increase the speed to medium and mix until thoroughly combined, about 10 seconds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scrape the dough onto a work surface; divide it in quarters. Working with one portion at a time, roll the dough 1/8-inch thick between 2 large sheets of parchment paper. Leaving the dough sandwiched between the parchment, stack the dough on a baking sheet and freeze until firm, 15 to 20 minutes. (Alternatively, refrigerate the dough for 2 hours or overnight.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Adjust the oven racks to the upper and lower-middle positions and heat the oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or spray them with nonstick cooking spray.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove 1 dough sheet from the freezer; place on the work surface. Peel off the top parchment sheet and gently lay it back in place. Flip the dough over; peel off and discard the second parchment sheet. Cut the dough into 2- to 3-inch gingerbread cookies, transferring the shapes to the prepared baking sheets with a wide metal spatula and spacing them 3/4 inch apart; set the scraps aside. Repeat with the remaining dough until the baking sheets are full.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bake the cookies until set in the centers and the dough barely retains an imprint when touched very gently with a fingertip, 10 to 15 minutes, rotating the baking sheets front to back and switching positions top to bottom halfway through the baking time. Do not overbake. Cool the cookies on the sheets 2 minutes, then remove the cookies with a wide metal spatula to a wire rack; cool to room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gather the scraps; repeat the rolling, cutting and baking steps. Once the cookies have cooled (which will happen quickly, as they're so thin), ice them.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"shortbread\">\u003c/a>Shortbread Hearts\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These are liberally adapted from a recipe in Sheila Lukins and Julee Rosso's venerable \u003c/em>The Silver Palate\u003cem> (Workman, 1982). They freeze well but are quite brittle, so work gently when you're icing.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78229\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 745px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/shortbread-hearts_custom-cd8d10ede49186338412b60b8ee2b7b5a54eb244.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/shortbread-hearts_custom-cd8d10ede49186338412b60b8ee2b7b5a54eb244-745x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Shortbread Hearts. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\" width=\"745\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78229\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shortbread Hearts. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 dozen cookies\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2/3 cup confectioner's sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, sifted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon vanilla\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream butter and confectioner's sugar together until light. Sift flour and salt together and add to the creamed mixture. Add vanilla and blend thoroughly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scrape the dough onto a floured work surface, divide in half, and flatten into disks about 1/2-inch thick. Wrap in plastic and set in the freezer until slightly firm (but not rock hard), about 5 to10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roll the dough out to slightly less than 1/4-inch thick. Cut out cookies with a 2 1/2- to 3-inch heart-shaped cookie cutter. Place on parchment-paper-lined baking sheet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 325 degrees. While the oven's heating, set the cookies someplace cold — either the refrigerator — or outside, if you don't have room and the air temperature outside is cooler. Bake the cookies for 10 to 12 minutes or until just cooked through — they needn't be colored or browned. Cool on a rack.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"icing\">\u003c/a>Royal Icing\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This basic royal icing from \u003c/em>Cookie Swap\u003cem> by Julia Usher (Gibbs Smith, 2009) has been my standby for years. I've used both raw egg whites (saved in the freezer after making ice cream or \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/03/30/134953739/the-other-half-of-the-egg\">other yolk-intensive projects\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cem>) and meringue powder, which is widely available at craft stores and baking supply sites. I think the raw whites may taste a little better, but the meringue powder has the advantages of being pasteurized and easy to work with.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78227\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/valentine-s-overall-3_custom-5df80ae57fd74800f4c2e8d7f24449967d0322f3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/valentine-s-overall-3_custom-5df80ae57fd74800f4c2e8d7f24449967d0322f3-1024x667.jpg\" alt=\"An assortment of iced gingerbread cookies for Valentine's Day. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\" width=\"1024\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78227\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An assortment of iced gingerbread cookies for Valentine's Day. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 4 1/2 cups\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds powdered sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 11 tablespoons pasteurized whites (or 5 large egg whites)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flavoring to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soft gel food coloring, to desired shade (for example, Chefmaster Liqua-Gel)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the powdered sugar and cream of tartar together in the bowl of an electric mixer. Stir in the egg whites by hand to moisten the sugar. Fit the electric mixer with a whip attachment and beat the mixture on low speed to evenly distribute the egg whites. Turn the mixer to medium-high speed and continue to beat about 2 minutes, until the icing is silky and very white. (The icing will lighten and thicken as you beat it.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beat in flavoring and/or food coloring, if desired. Mix well and thin with water\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>to desired consistency before using.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Marbling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Extensive instructions, with photos, can be found at Julia Usher's excellent website, \u003ca href=\"http://cookieconnection.juliausher.com/\">Cookie Connection\u003c/a>. There you can find guidance on beadwork, piping, stenciling and flooding, along with photo galleries of cookies much more beautiful than mine. My own instructions, given here, are just a sketch to get you started.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You'll need 3 different colors of icing, thinned to the consistency of Elmer's Glue or slightly thicker. (That works out to about 2 to 3 tablespoons of water per cup of icing; add drop by drop as you get close. You can thicken the icing back up with confectioner's sugar.) Put one color in an open tub and the other two in parchment paper cones or piping bags with a small round pastry tip. Or, if you want maximum color combinations, divide your three colors so that you have a tub and a piping bag for each color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coat the whole cookie with one color of icing, spreading carefully but quickly with the back of a craft paintbrush.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pipe lines or dots of contrasting color icing onto the wet topcoat. Drag a toothpick or darning needle straight across the lines, reversing direction when you reach the cookie's edge, to create a marbled effect. For miniature hearts, drag your needle through dots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Brush Embroidery\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Topcoat the cookie with icing in whatever color you like and let dry, preferably overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the brush embroidery, you'll need a thicker, slightly pasty consistency of icing (thinned with about 1 to 2 tablespoons of water per cup of icing). Once you've got the consistency to your satisfaction, fill a parchment paper cone or piping bag fitted with a small round tip with the icing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pipe curved petal outlines onto the cookie. Dampen a very small paintbrush (preferably square-tipped) and blot the excess water from the tip. Brush the icing toward the center of the petal to create a delicate shaded effect; finish by piping small dots at the center or in the background as desired. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>About The Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>T. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe,\u003c/em> NPR.org and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a> and has just released the \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/cookshelf-cookbook-rating/id638554845?mt=8\">CookShelf cookbook-rating app\u003c/a>, which is available on iPhone, iPad and Android devices. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "DIY Conversation Hearts are a Fun Project for Valentine’s Day",
"title": "DIY Conversation Hearts are a Fun Project for Valentine’s Day",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77961\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/happy-valentines-day.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/happy-valentines-day.jpg\" alt=\"Making your own conversation heart candies is a fun DIY project for Valentine’s Day. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77961\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Making your own conversation heart candies is a fun DIY project for Valentine’s Day. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like many kids, my favorite part of Valentine’s Day was the candy. A box of miniature heart-shaped chocolates was the ultimate prize, but I didn’t hold back from noshing on the copious lollipops, hard candies, and cookies that crossed my path on February 14. Inevitably, I ate my fair share of conversation hearts, those little chalky sugar bombs stamped with hilarious (to an 8-year-old) messages like “FAX ME,” “XOXO,” and “ASK ME.” I didn’t care that the candies were basically flavorless; a sugar high was the end goal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, I’d likely only purchase a box of conversation hearts to hunt for modernized messages (“OK CUPID ME”?). A more flavorful way to satisfy any nostalgic cravings is to make them at home. The ingredient list is fairly simple—conversation hearts are, after all, mostly just sugar—and the flavoring, coloring, and decorating options are endless. Best of all for anyone with a family, the candy is very hard to screw up. It’s the perfect project for tackling with kids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77962\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ingredients.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ingredients.jpg\" alt=\"To make conversation hearts, all you need is sugar, gelatin, flavored soda, flavoring extracts, and food coloring. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77962\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To make conversation hearts, all you need is sugar, gelatin, flavored soda, flavoring extracts, and food coloring. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In addition to the sugar (I use confectioner’s), you’ll need unflavored gelatin, salt, food coloring, flavor extracts, and a bottle of soda. I used a bottle of fancy ginger ale to add a bit of spice to the candies, but you could use Sprite, sparkling cider, sparkling lemonade, or anything that strikes your fancy. Keep in mind that colored liquids will color the final candies, so try and stick to something clear or light-colored. You will also want to coordinate the extracts with the soda choice. I used lemon, peppermint, almond, and vanilla extracts; these all matched well to the ginger ale. The number of flavors used is entirely up to you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77957\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/double-boiler-better.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/double-boiler-better.jpg\" alt=\"Using a double boiler to gently heat the gelatin will ensure that it fully dissolves into the soda. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77957\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Using a double boiler to gently heat the gelatin will ensure that it fully dissolves into the soda. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To get started, you will first need to “bloom,” or hydrate, the gelatin. First, mix the gelatin with the soda in the bowl of a stand mixer and let the mixture rest for about five minutes. Meanwhile, set up a double boiler by bringing a small pot of water to a simmer over medium heat. Once the water is steaming, place the mixer bowl on top of the water, making sure that the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Stir the gelatin mixture occasionally until the granules are completely dissolved. Remove the mixer bowl from the pot of water and wipe the bottom to remove any condensation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now place the bowl in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. If you don’t have a stand mixer, you can use a hand mixer, but be prepared for a bit of an arm workout. Add 1 cup of confectioner’s sugar and beat until the sugar is combined. At this point, the mixture will be a thin, syrupy liquid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77958\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/finished-mixing.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/finished-mixing.jpg\" alt=\"Beat confectioner’s sugar into the gelatin and soda mixture until it becomes a thick dough. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77958\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beat confectioner’s sugar into the gelatin and soda mixture until it becomes a thick dough. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Continue to add the powdered sugar about 1 cup at a time, until the mixture turns into a thick, malleable dough. It shouldn’t be terribly sticky. You’ll probably have a little extra powdered sugar, which you will use for kneading and rolling out the dough. Transfer the dough to a countertop that has been lightly dusted with powdered sugar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77963\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/kneading.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/kneading.jpg\" alt=\"To finish mixing the dough, transfer it to a sugar-dusted counter, and knead it until it is smooth and no longer sticky. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77963\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To finish mixing the dough, transfer it to a sugar-dusted counter, and knead it until it is smooth and no longer sticky. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Knead the dough as you would bread until it is smooth and no longer sticky. At this point, it should have the same texture as \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Play-Doh\">Play-Doh\u003c/a>. Divide the dough into however many portions you’d like. I made four different flavors of conversation hearts, so I divided the dough into four equal portions. Keep the dough portions covered with plastic wrap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To protect your hands from staining, you will want to use disposable rubber gloves or a few Ziplock bags when coloring the candies. You’ll need one pair of gloves or one bag per color. If you’re using gloves, put them on first. If you’re using bags, you’ll add the coloring to the dough before placing it in a bag.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77964\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/yellow-food-coloring.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/yellow-food-coloring.jpg\" alt=\"Use a few drops of food coloring with a coordinated flavor extract for each different color heart you’d like. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77964\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Use a few drops of food coloring with a coordinated flavor extract for each different color heart you’d like. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77959\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/four-colored-doughs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/four-colored-doughs.jpg\" alt=\"Knead the dough until the color is uniform throughout. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77959\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Knead the dough until the color is uniform throughout. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Using your fingers, make an indentation in the center of one piece of dough. Add a few drops each of food coloring and a flavoring extract. I tried to coordinate coloring with flavoring, but some matches are better than others (green=peppermint, yellow=lemon, blue=almond, pink=vanilla). Knead the dyed portion of dough until the color is uniform. You will likely need to sprinkle a bit more powdered sugar onto the dough to keep it from sticking to the counter. Taste a bit of dough and adjust the flavoring and coloring if necessary. Repeat with the remaining portions of dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77956\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/cutting-green-hearts.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/cutting-green-hearts.jpg\" alt=\"A miniature heart-shaped cookie cutter will give the most classic results, but any size and shape are possible. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77956\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A miniature heart-shaped cookie cutter will give the most classic results, but any size and shape are possible. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next, re-dust the counter with a bit more powdered sugar, and roll out one portion of dough until it is somewhere between 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch thick. To cut out the candy hearts, I use a miniature heart-shaped cookie cutter that I found in a set at a cookware store. If you can’t find mini-hearts, you can use a larger cookie cutter. Transfer the heart cut-outs to a parchment paper-lined baking sheet to dry. Re-roll the dough scraps as many times as you’d like, and then repeat with the remaining portions of dough. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you’ve got all the hearts cut out, spread the hearts in a single layer on the baking sheet (use a second one, or a plate, if you need more space). Let the hearts dry completely before decorating—this will take 24 to 48 hours, depending on how thick they are.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77960\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/four-dollar-toast.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/four-dollar-toast.jpg\" alt=\"Use an edible marker to decorate the hearts with whatever message you’d like. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77960\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Use an edible marker to decorate the hearts with whatever message you’d like. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finally, once the hearts are dry, it’s time to decorate. I found a set of edible markers at the same cookware store where I bought the cookie cutters. They are also available in craft stores and online. I found that using markers was much easier than trying to use a stamp to decorate the candies. Plus you get to write whatever you’d like. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: DIY Conversation Hearts\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 6 cups\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> If you’d like to make a vegan version of these candies, you should be able substitute powdered agar-agar for the gelatin at a 1:1 ratio. This version was not tested, though, so you may need to fiddle with the recipe to get the sugar mixture to stay malleable. Miniature cookie cutters and edible decorator markers are available at Sur la Table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 1/2\tteaspoons unflavored powdered gelatin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 \tcup mild-flavored soda (like ginger ale, Sprite, sparkling apple cider, or sparkling lemonade), preferably clear or light-colored\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5\tcups (20 ounces) confectioner’s sugar, plus additional for rolling\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4\tteaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Food coloring\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Assorted flavor extracts\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Edible decorator markers (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Equipment:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Electric mixer\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bench scraper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Rubber gloves or large Ziplock bag\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Rolling pin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Miniature heart-shaped cookie cutter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Parchment paper\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>Combine the gelatin and soda in the bowl of a stand mixer or a metal mixing bowl. Whisk to combine, and then let the gelatin bloom for 5 minutes. Bring a small pot of water to a simmer, place the bowl of gelatin over the simmering water, and stir occasionally until the gelatin has melted (all of the grains will dissolve).\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the mixer bowl from the pot of water and wipe the bottom to remove any condensation. Fit the bowl into the stand mixer using a paddle attachment (if using a hand mixer, use the regular beaters). Add about 2 cups of powdered sugar to the gelatin mixture and beat on medium-low speed until the mixture is combined. It will be liquid. Add the salt and continue adding powdered sugar, about one cup at a time, until a thick, malleable dough forms. You may not use all of the powdered sugar.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Turn the dough out onto a powdered-sugar dusted counter and knead, using additional powdered sugar as needed to prevent sticking, until the dough is smooth and no longer sticky. Using a bench scraper or knife, divide the dough into desired number of portions (one for each flavor). Cover the dough portions with plastic wrap.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Put on gloves if you have them. Make an indentation in the center of one portion of dough using your fingers. Place a few drops each of food coloring and coordinated flavored extract in the indentation. If you don’t have rubber gloves, place the dough in a large Ziplock bag and seal. Knead the dough until the color and flavor is uniform. Taste a pinch of the dough and adjust the flavor if necessary. Adjust the color if necessary. Repeat with remaining portions of dough and flavorings.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Set aside. Lightly dust the counter with powdered sugar. Using a rolling pin, roll each portion of dough, one color at a time, into a large rectangle between 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch thick. Use a miniature heart shaped cookie cutter to stamp out the candies and transfer to the parchment-lined baking sheet. Gather and re-roll the scraps as many times as necessary. Repeat with remaining portions of dough.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Let the hearts air dry, uncovered, until crisp and crunchy, 24 to 48 hours. Flip the hearts over about every 12 hours to ensure that both sides dry evenly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If desired, decorate fully dried hearts using an edible food marker. The conversation hearts will keep for at least 6 months in an airtight container.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Homemade valentines don't have to be made exclusively from chocolate. This year, try making your own conversation hearts—they're fun to make, infinitely variable, and easy to personalize. Kate Williams will show you how.\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77961\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/happy-valentines-day.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/happy-valentines-day.jpg\" alt=\"Making your own conversation heart candies is a fun DIY project for Valentine’s Day. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77961\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Making your own conversation heart candies is a fun DIY project for Valentine’s Day. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like many kids, my favorite part of Valentine’s Day was the candy. A box of miniature heart-shaped chocolates was the ultimate prize, but I didn’t hold back from noshing on the copious lollipops, hard candies, and cookies that crossed my path on February 14. Inevitably, I ate my fair share of conversation hearts, those little chalky sugar bombs stamped with hilarious (to an 8-year-old) messages like “FAX ME,” “XOXO,” and “ASK ME.” I didn’t care that the candies were basically flavorless; a sugar high was the end goal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, I’d likely only purchase a box of conversation hearts to hunt for modernized messages (“OK CUPID ME”?). A more flavorful way to satisfy any nostalgic cravings is to make them at home. The ingredient list is fairly simple—conversation hearts are, after all, mostly just sugar—and the flavoring, coloring, and decorating options are endless. Best of all for anyone with a family, the candy is very hard to screw up. It’s the perfect project for tackling with kids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77962\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ingredients.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/ingredients.jpg\" alt=\"To make conversation hearts, all you need is sugar, gelatin, flavored soda, flavoring extracts, and food coloring. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77962\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To make conversation hearts, all you need is sugar, gelatin, flavored soda, flavoring extracts, and food coloring. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In addition to the sugar (I use confectioner’s), you’ll need unflavored gelatin, salt, food coloring, flavor extracts, and a bottle of soda. I used a bottle of fancy ginger ale to add a bit of spice to the candies, but you could use Sprite, sparkling cider, sparkling lemonade, or anything that strikes your fancy. Keep in mind that colored liquids will color the final candies, so try and stick to something clear or light-colored. You will also want to coordinate the extracts with the soda choice. I used lemon, peppermint, almond, and vanilla extracts; these all matched well to the ginger ale. The number of flavors used is entirely up to you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77957\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/double-boiler-better.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/double-boiler-better.jpg\" alt=\"Using a double boiler to gently heat the gelatin will ensure that it fully dissolves into the soda. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77957\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Using a double boiler to gently heat the gelatin will ensure that it fully dissolves into the soda. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To get started, you will first need to “bloom,” or hydrate, the gelatin. First, mix the gelatin with the soda in the bowl of a stand mixer and let the mixture rest for about five minutes. Meanwhile, set up a double boiler by bringing a small pot of water to a simmer over medium heat. Once the water is steaming, place the mixer bowl on top of the water, making sure that the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Stir the gelatin mixture occasionally until the granules are completely dissolved. Remove the mixer bowl from the pot of water and wipe the bottom to remove any condensation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now place the bowl in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. If you don’t have a stand mixer, you can use a hand mixer, but be prepared for a bit of an arm workout. Add 1 cup of confectioner’s sugar and beat until the sugar is combined. At this point, the mixture will be a thin, syrupy liquid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77958\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/finished-mixing.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/finished-mixing.jpg\" alt=\"Beat confectioner’s sugar into the gelatin and soda mixture until it becomes a thick dough. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77958\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beat confectioner’s sugar into the gelatin and soda mixture until it becomes a thick dough. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Continue to add the powdered sugar about 1 cup at a time, until the mixture turns into a thick, malleable dough. It shouldn’t be terribly sticky. You’ll probably have a little extra powdered sugar, which you will use for kneading and rolling out the dough. Transfer the dough to a countertop that has been lightly dusted with powdered sugar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77963\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/kneading.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/kneading.jpg\" alt=\"To finish mixing the dough, transfer it to a sugar-dusted counter, and knead it until it is smooth and no longer sticky. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77963\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To finish mixing the dough, transfer it to a sugar-dusted counter, and knead it until it is smooth and no longer sticky. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Knead the dough as you would bread until it is smooth and no longer sticky. At this point, it should have the same texture as \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Play-Doh\">Play-Doh\u003c/a>. Divide the dough into however many portions you’d like. I made four different flavors of conversation hearts, so I divided the dough into four equal portions. Keep the dough portions covered with plastic wrap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To protect your hands from staining, you will want to use disposable rubber gloves or a few Ziplock bags when coloring the candies. You’ll need one pair of gloves or one bag per color. If you’re using gloves, put them on first. If you’re using bags, you’ll add the coloring to the dough before placing it in a bag.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77964\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/yellow-food-coloring.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/yellow-food-coloring.jpg\" alt=\"Use a few drops of food coloring with a coordinated flavor extract for each different color heart you’d like. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77964\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Use a few drops of food coloring with a coordinated flavor extract for each different color heart you’d like. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77959\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/four-colored-doughs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/four-colored-doughs.jpg\" alt=\"Knead the dough until the color is uniform throughout. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77959\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Knead the dough until the color is uniform throughout. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Using your fingers, make an indentation in the center of one piece of dough. Add a few drops each of food coloring and a flavoring extract. I tried to coordinate coloring with flavoring, but some matches are better than others (green=peppermint, yellow=lemon, blue=almond, pink=vanilla). Knead the dyed portion of dough until the color is uniform. You will likely need to sprinkle a bit more powdered sugar onto the dough to keep it from sticking to the counter. Taste a bit of dough and adjust the flavoring and coloring if necessary. Repeat with the remaining portions of dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77956\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/cutting-green-hearts.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/cutting-green-hearts.jpg\" alt=\"A miniature heart-shaped cookie cutter will give the most classic results, but any size and shape are possible. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77956\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A miniature heart-shaped cookie cutter will give the most classic results, but any size and shape are possible. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next, re-dust the counter with a bit more powdered sugar, and roll out one portion of dough until it is somewhere between 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch thick. To cut out the candy hearts, I use a miniature heart-shaped cookie cutter that I found in a set at a cookware store. If you can’t find mini-hearts, you can use a larger cookie cutter. Transfer the heart cut-outs to a parchment paper-lined baking sheet to dry. Re-roll the dough scraps as many times as you’d like, and then repeat with the remaining portions of dough. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you’ve got all the hearts cut out, spread the hearts in a single layer on the baking sheet (use a second one, or a plate, if you need more space). Let the hearts dry completely before decorating—this will take 24 to 48 hours, depending on how thick they are.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77960\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/four-dollar-toast.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/four-dollar-toast.jpg\" alt=\"Use an edible marker to decorate the hearts with whatever message you’d like. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77960\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Use an edible marker to decorate the hearts with whatever message you’d like. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finally, once the hearts are dry, it’s time to decorate. I found a set of edible markers at the same cookware store where I bought the cookie cutters. They are also available in craft stores and online. I found that using markers was much easier than trying to use a stamp to decorate the candies. Plus you get to write whatever you’d like. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: DIY Conversation Hearts\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 6 cups\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> If you’d like to make a vegan version of these candies, you should be able substitute powdered agar-agar for the gelatin at a 1:1 ratio. This version was not tested, though, so you may need to fiddle with the recipe to get the sugar mixture to stay malleable. Miniature cookie cutters and edible decorator markers are available at Sur la Table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 1/2\tteaspoons unflavored powdered gelatin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 \tcup mild-flavored soda (like ginger ale, Sprite, sparkling apple cider, or sparkling lemonade), preferably clear or light-colored\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5\tcups (20 ounces) confectioner’s sugar, plus additional for rolling\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4\tteaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Food coloring\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Assorted flavor extracts\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Edible decorator markers (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Equipment:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Electric mixer\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bench scraper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Rubber gloves or large Ziplock bag\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Rolling pin\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Miniature heart-shaped cookie cutter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Parchment paper\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>Combine the gelatin and soda in the bowl of a stand mixer or a metal mixing bowl. Whisk to combine, and then let the gelatin bloom for 5 minutes. Bring a small pot of water to a simmer, place the bowl of gelatin over the simmering water, and stir occasionally until the gelatin has melted (all of the grains will dissolve).\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the mixer bowl from the pot of water and wipe the bottom to remove any condensation. Fit the bowl into the stand mixer using a paddle attachment (if using a hand mixer, use the regular beaters). Add about 2 cups of powdered sugar to the gelatin mixture and beat on medium-low speed until the mixture is combined. It will be liquid. Add the salt and continue adding powdered sugar, about one cup at a time, until a thick, malleable dough forms. You may not use all of the powdered sugar.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Turn the dough out onto a powdered-sugar dusted counter and knead, using additional powdered sugar as needed to prevent sticking, until the dough is smooth and no longer sticky. Using a bench scraper or knife, divide the dough into desired number of portions (one for each flavor). Cover the dough portions with plastic wrap.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Put on gloves if you have them. Make an indentation in the center of one portion of dough using your fingers. Place a few drops each of food coloring and coordinated flavored extract in the indentation. If you don’t have rubber gloves, place the dough in a large Ziplock bag and seal. Knead the dough until the color and flavor is uniform. Taste a pinch of the dough and adjust the flavor if necessary. Adjust the color if necessary. Repeat with remaining portions of dough and flavorings.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Set aside. Lightly dust the counter with powdered sugar. Using a rolling pin, roll each portion of dough, one color at a time, into a large rectangle between 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch thick. Use a miniature heart shaped cookie cutter to stamp out the candies and transfer to the parchment-lined baking sheet. Gather and re-roll the scraps as many times as necessary. Repeat with remaining portions of dough.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Let the hearts air dry, uncovered, until crisp and crunchy, 24 to 48 hours. Flip the hearts over about every 12 hours to ensure that both sides dry evenly.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If desired, decorate fully dried hearts using an edible food marker. The conversation hearts will keep for at least 6 months in an airtight container.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Bay Area's Herring Run Is On -- Go Hyperlocal in Your Seafood Eating",
"title": "Bay Area's Herring Run Is On -- Go Hyperlocal in Your Seafood Eating",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77807\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-700.jpg\" alt=\"Fresh herring from Richardson Bay. Photo: Maria Finn\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77807\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fresh herring from Richardson Bay. Photo: Maria Finn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Quick: what's the last commercial fish species still caught in San Francisco Bay?\u003c/strong> Nope, not oysters, not Dungeness crab. It's herring, and right now, our herrings' winter spawning run is in full swing. If you've ever wanted to go hyperlocal in your seafood eating, now's your chance to get these healthy, delicious, and very sustainable fish onto your table. Fresh herring is popping up on restaurant menus and fish markets around the Bay Area. (The second annual \u003ca href=\"http://cassgidley.org/news-and-events/sausalito-herring-festival/\">Sausalito Herring Festival\u003c/a> was planned for Sunday, Feb. 9, but has unfortunately been cancelled due to the weekend's storm.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have Scandinavian, German, Eastern European or Jewish roots, you've probably eaten herring before--probably pickled, maybe smoked, often doused in sour cream sauce with sliced onions. Sometimes fat chunks of pickled herring were wrapped around olives, onions, or pickles, in a preparation typically known as rollmops. As a Jewish kid in New Jersey, I grew up with a perpetual jar of herring in the fridge, and that's where I thought herring came from: out of the fridge, from a jar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77806\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/pickled-herring.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/pickled-herring.jpg\" alt=\"Pickled herring with pink peppercorns and lemon. Photo by Maria Finn\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77806\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pickled herring with pink peppercorns and lemon. Photo by Maria Finn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not so. The Pacific herring's spawning run from the open ocean into San Francisco Bay typically happens between mid-January and mid-March, to the delight of both commercial and sport fishermen. Many thousands of sea gulls, cormorants, pelicans, murres, ducks, sea lions, and more go into a squawking, barking feeding frenzy when the fat, roe-filled herring arrive. So far, the herring population this year looks quite robust, good news after the near-collapse of the population in 2009, when the state closed down the commercial herring fishery completely in hopes of letting the spawning fish rebuild their numbers. As a \"forage fish\" for dozens of predators, herring is a valuable food source for a wide range of bird and marine life in the area, supporting many migrating birds along the Pacific Flyway, as well as sea lions, salmon, even whales. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The golden roe, or egg sacs, of the female herring are treasured in Japan, where they are known as \u003cem>kazunoko\u003c/em> and are especially prized as a delicacy for \u003cem>Shogatsu,\u003c/em> or Japanese New Year. Until quite recently, most of the local herring catch focused on the roe, which were salted and sent to Japan. The rest of the fish were often used for fishmeal, pet food, or even discarded. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, however, local awareness of this tasty, seasonal fish has grown, and more and more restaurants and fish markets are featuring it during its short winter season. Herring is rich in omega-3 fats and vitamin D, and since it eats low on the food chain, feeding on drifting phytoplankton (tiny plants) and zooplankton (mostly tiny crustaceans and larvae), it typically contains very low levels of mercury and other heavy metals that large fish like tuna and swordfish can accumulate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.dfg.ca.gov/marine/herring/\">California Department of Fish and Wildlife\u003c/a> has set a yearly fishing quota of no more than 5% of the total estimated herring population in the Bay, in order to protect the stocks for future runs, with this year's quota set at about 3,700 tons. The department surveys the population every year, since the recruitment (spawning survival) rates vary greatly from year to year, depending on climate, ocean temperature, habitat, and many other factors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So, who's got herring on the menu?\u003c/strong> Typically, herring is served pickled or marinated, which gives a firm, succulent texture to the raw fish, much like ceviche. At the \u003ca href=\"http://www.healdsburgshed.com\">Shed\u003c/a> in Healdsburg, local herring is marinated in housemade red wine vinegar and olive oil, then served in a lunchtime salad with frisee, soft-cooked egg, capers, and boiled potato. At \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartartine.com\">Bar Tartine\u003c/a>, pickled herring comes Scandinavian style with creamed onions and sprouted rye bread. Marinated herring with bok choy and winter squash is on the appetizer menu at \u003ca href=\"http://richtablesf.com/\">Rich Table\u003c/a> in Hayes Valley, while \u003ca href=\"http://www.waterbarsf.com\">Waterbar\u003c/a> along the Embarcadero is roasting their herring in the wood oven, then serving it with warm fingerling potatoes, whole grain mustard, and sherry-roasted onions. For true nose-to-tail types, \u003ca href=\"http://www.localscornersf.com\">Local's Corner\u003c/a> is offering a three-course herring menu: pickled with beet, radish, carrot, ancho cress and creme fraiche; milt and roe on toast with vadouvan aioli; and smoked with potato, apple, cabbage, and whole-grain mustard. They're sourcing from \u003ca href=\"http://twoxsea.com/\">Two X Sea\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://water2table.com/\">Water2Table\u003c/a>. This weekend, you can also look for fresh herring on the menus at \u003ca href=\"http://walzwerk.com/\">Walzwerk\u003c/a> in San Francisco and \u003ca href=\"http://www.331fish.com/\">Fish.\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.angelinorestaurant.com/\">Angelino\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://osteriadivino.com/home.html\">Osteria Divino\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://sushiran.com/\">Sushi Ran\u003c/a> in Sausalito.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77808\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-salad-shed1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-salad-shed1000.jpg\" alt=\"At the Shed in Healdsburg, local herring is marinated in housemade red wine vinegar and olive oil, then served in a lunchtime salad with frisee, soft-cooked egg, capers, and boiled potato. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77808\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At the Shed in Healdsburg, local herring is marinated in housemade red wine vinegar and olive oil, then served in a lunchtime salad with frisee, soft-cooked egg, capers, and boiled potato. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At Oakland's Spanish-themed \u003ca href=\"http://www.duendeoakland.com\">Duende\u003c/a>, the tapas menu includes a \u003cem>tosta de pescado\u003c/em> of pickled herring and steelhead mousse. \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatpekopeko.com\">Peko Peko\u003c/a>, a Japanese catering company and pop-up izakaya restaurant in Temescal, featured herring nanban-zuke--a Japanese preparation similar to escabeche--at a recent dinner. Nearby, \u003ca href=\"http://www.beautysbagelshop.com\">Beauty's Bagels\u003c/a> is hoping to get more herring in the house by this weekend; if they do, says chef-owner Blake Joffe, they'll pickle it in white wine with onion, garlic, allspice, mustard seed, dill, and bay leaf. Once pickled, it will be served over arugula dressed with the pickling liquid, with a bagel and cream cheese on the side. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're looking to source your own, both \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereyfish.com/pages/nav/retail.html\">Monterey Fish Market\u003c/a> in Berkeley \u003ca href=\"http://www.rockridgemarkethall.com/hapuku-fish\"> Hapuku Fish\u003c/a> in Rockridge's Market Hall both have fresh local herring in stock. Kirk Lombard, who runs frequent \u003ca href=\"http://www.seaforager.com/\">Sea Forager tours\u003c/a> around the Bay, does a \"herring alert\" for interested subscribers on his email list to let them know when the fish are running. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77805\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-peppercorn.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-peppercorn.jpg\" alt=\"Fresh herring with pink peppercorns. Photo by Maria Finn\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77805\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fresh herring with pink peppercorns. Photo by Maria Finn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What about catching and cooking your own?\u003c/strong> Bay Area Bites spoke with Maria Finn, author of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/26/the-whole-fish-how-adventurous-eating-of-seafood-can-make-you-healthier-sexier-and-help-save-the-ocean/\">The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean\u003c/a>. Finn, who lives on a houseboat in Sausalito's Richardson Bay, has a front-row seat on the season's herring feeding frenzy, as sea lions, sea birds gather in the water just outside her windows when the herring show up. She shared her tips for preparing every part of the fish, below. (For tips and how-to videos on scaling, filleting, and smoking whole fish, check out this \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/06/20/learn-how-to-butcher-smoke-and-can-a-whole-fish-with-chef-neil-davidson/\">post\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finn:\u003c/strong> Last week, I went out on a small boat in Richardson Bay in Sausalito with a neighbor and used a hand-tossed net. However, some people were wading out a few feet and catching them with five-gallon buckets near the Tiburon Ferry landing, so you don't need a boat or net. Just look for the critical mass of sea lions, sea birds, and/or commercial fishing boats. You do need a \u003ca href=\"https://www.dfg.ca.gov/licensing/fishing/\"> sport fishing license\u003c/a> to catch herring; there are one- and two-day licenses available, as well as full-season ones. Also, as I tossed the net amid lots of frolicking sea lions and seals, some seaweed with herring eggs came up, so I save some of that as well. I took about half of a five-gallon bucket of herring, and trust me, that's a lot of fish to clean. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77812\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/salting-herring-roe.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/salting-herring-roe.jpg\" alt=\"Salting herring roes. Photo by Maria Finn\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77812\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salting herring roes. Photo by Maria Finn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Okay, you've got your fish and your seaweed with roe. Now what? Do you treat the male and female fish differently?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finn: \u003c/strong>First, I gutted them. I slit up their bellies very delicately so as to not cut open the egg sacs or milt sacs. The egg sacs I set aside for bottarga. For this, I keep the sacs intact, coat them with a little olive oil, and then salt and put them in the fridge overnight. The next day, I take them out and layer them between salt for a week. After they are stiff, I take out an egg sac, rinse it and grate it over pasta (I like pappardelle by \u003ca href=\"http://communitygrains.com/products/dried-pasta\">Community Grains\u003c/a>) and add some greens like kale and then a poached egg on top. Ridiculously good. With the roe-on-kelp, I mixed them with thinly sliced cucumbers and put a sesame oil-rice vinegar dressing on them. The male \"milt\" or sperm, I dredged in flour, pan-fried in butter, and then spread on toast. (I learned this from Douglas Bernstein at \u003ca href=\"http://www.331fish.com/\">Fish\u003c/a> restaurant in Sausalito). For the fish itself, after gutting, I scaled them, tossed them in olive oil and salt and grilled them. I made a preserved lemon and anchovy sauce to drizzle on them. They were really good!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You mentioned earlier that you shared some of your herring with chef friends. What did they do with them? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finn:\u003c/strong> Andrea Blum, the former chef at \u003ca href=\"http://montalvoarts.org/\">Montalvo Art Center\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kipper\">kippered\u003c/a> some. David Johnson, my next door neighbor, who runs the \u003ca href=\"http://www.daveyjonesdeli.com/\">Davey Jones Deli\u003c/a> nearby, is smoking them for herring salad sandwiches. For the now-cancelled Sausalito herring festival, he had planned to make a herring paella. My neighbor Maude Bradley is also a chef. She took a bag home and made herring in ginger miso and poached herring with garlic, leeks, and olives. Her favorite was Super Bowl snacks of crispy fried salt-and-pepper herring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What about your cats? Did they get any herring treats? Can you use the scraps to catch other fish? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finn:\u003c/strong> My fat little cats like unhealthy, junk-cat food. So I keep the herring raw (heads, guts, blood lines, etc), grind it up, and slip it into their wet food. Over time, I want to incorporate more and more until they are eating raw, local seafood scraps and not the junk food they love so much now. I also save heads and other parts I don't eat to use for bait when I'm out fishing for stripers or ling cod, or to use to bait my crab pot. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The herring run is on in San Francisco. Bay Area Bites talks to local sustainable-seafood expert Maria Finn for tips on sourcing and cooking every part of this healthy, affordable, and very local fish during its brief appearance in our waters. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77807\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-700.jpg\" alt=\"Fresh herring from Richardson Bay. Photo: Maria Finn\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77807\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fresh herring from Richardson Bay. Photo: Maria Finn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Quick: what's the last commercial fish species still caught in San Francisco Bay?\u003c/strong> Nope, not oysters, not Dungeness crab. It's herring, and right now, our herrings' winter spawning run is in full swing. If you've ever wanted to go hyperlocal in your seafood eating, now's your chance to get these healthy, delicious, and very sustainable fish onto your table. Fresh herring is popping up on restaurant menus and fish markets around the Bay Area. (The second annual \u003ca href=\"http://cassgidley.org/news-and-events/sausalito-herring-festival/\">Sausalito Herring Festival\u003c/a> was planned for Sunday, Feb. 9, but has unfortunately been cancelled due to the weekend's storm.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have Scandinavian, German, Eastern European or Jewish roots, you've probably eaten herring before--probably pickled, maybe smoked, often doused in sour cream sauce with sliced onions. Sometimes fat chunks of pickled herring were wrapped around olives, onions, or pickles, in a preparation typically known as rollmops. As a Jewish kid in New Jersey, I grew up with a perpetual jar of herring in the fridge, and that's where I thought herring came from: out of the fridge, from a jar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77806\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/pickled-herring.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/pickled-herring.jpg\" alt=\"Pickled herring with pink peppercorns and lemon. Photo by Maria Finn\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77806\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pickled herring with pink peppercorns and lemon. Photo by Maria Finn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not so. The Pacific herring's spawning run from the open ocean into San Francisco Bay typically happens between mid-January and mid-March, to the delight of both commercial and sport fishermen. Many thousands of sea gulls, cormorants, pelicans, murres, ducks, sea lions, and more go into a squawking, barking feeding frenzy when the fat, roe-filled herring arrive. So far, the herring population this year looks quite robust, good news after the near-collapse of the population in 2009, when the state closed down the commercial herring fishery completely in hopes of letting the spawning fish rebuild their numbers. As a \"forage fish\" for dozens of predators, herring is a valuable food source for a wide range of bird and marine life in the area, supporting many migrating birds along the Pacific Flyway, as well as sea lions, salmon, even whales. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The golden roe, or egg sacs, of the female herring are treasured in Japan, where they are known as \u003cem>kazunoko\u003c/em> and are especially prized as a delicacy for \u003cem>Shogatsu,\u003c/em> or Japanese New Year. Until quite recently, most of the local herring catch focused on the roe, which were salted and sent to Japan. The rest of the fish were often used for fishmeal, pet food, or even discarded. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, however, local awareness of this tasty, seasonal fish has grown, and more and more restaurants and fish markets are featuring it during its short winter season. Herring is rich in omega-3 fats and vitamin D, and since it eats low on the food chain, feeding on drifting phytoplankton (tiny plants) and zooplankton (mostly tiny crustaceans and larvae), it typically contains very low levels of mercury and other heavy metals that large fish like tuna and swordfish can accumulate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.dfg.ca.gov/marine/herring/\">California Department of Fish and Wildlife\u003c/a> has set a yearly fishing quota of no more than 5% of the total estimated herring population in the Bay, in order to protect the stocks for future runs, with this year's quota set at about 3,700 tons. The department surveys the population every year, since the recruitment (spawning survival) rates vary greatly from year to year, depending on climate, ocean temperature, habitat, and many other factors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So, who's got herring on the menu?\u003c/strong> Typically, herring is served pickled or marinated, which gives a firm, succulent texture to the raw fish, much like ceviche. At the \u003ca href=\"http://www.healdsburgshed.com\">Shed\u003c/a> in Healdsburg, local herring is marinated in housemade red wine vinegar and olive oil, then served in a lunchtime salad with frisee, soft-cooked egg, capers, and boiled potato. At \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartartine.com\">Bar Tartine\u003c/a>, pickled herring comes Scandinavian style with creamed onions and sprouted rye bread. Marinated herring with bok choy and winter squash is on the appetizer menu at \u003ca href=\"http://richtablesf.com/\">Rich Table\u003c/a> in Hayes Valley, while \u003ca href=\"http://www.waterbarsf.com\">Waterbar\u003c/a> along the Embarcadero is roasting their herring in the wood oven, then serving it with warm fingerling potatoes, whole grain mustard, and sherry-roasted onions. For true nose-to-tail types, \u003ca href=\"http://www.localscornersf.com\">Local's Corner\u003c/a> is offering a three-course herring menu: pickled with beet, radish, carrot, ancho cress and creme fraiche; milt and roe on toast with vadouvan aioli; and smoked with potato, apple, cabbage, and whole-grain mustard. They're sourcing from \u003ca href=\"http://twoxsea.com/\">Two X Sea\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://water2table.com/\">Water2Table\u003c/a>. This weekend, you can also look for fresh herring on the menus at \u003ca href=\"http://walzwerk.com/\">Walzwerk\u003c/a> in San Francisco and \u003ca href=\"http://www.331fish.com/\">Fish.\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.angelinorestaurant.com/\">Angelino\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://osteriadivino.com/home.html\">Osteria Divino\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://sushiran.com/\">Sushi Ran\u003c/a> in Sausalito.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77808\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-salad-shed1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-salad-shed1000.jpg\" alt=\"At the Shed in Healdsburg, local herring is marinated in housemade red wine vinegar and olive oil, then served in a lunchtime salad with frisee, soft-cooked egg, capers, and boiled potato. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77808\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At the Shed in Healdsburg, local herring is marinated in housemade red wine vinegar and olive oil, then served in a lunchtime salad with frisee, soft-cooked egg, capers, and boiled potato. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At Oakland's Spanish-themed \u003ca href=\"http://www.duendeoakland.com\">Duende\u003c/a>, the tapas menu includes a \u003cem>tosta de pescado\u003c/em> of pickled herring and steelhead mousse. \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatpekopeko.com\">Peko Peko\u003c/a>, a Japanese catering company and pop-up izakaya restaurant in Temescal, featured herring nanban-zuke--a Japanese preparation similar to escabeche--at a recent dinner. Nearby, \u003ca href=\"http://www.beautysbagelshop.com\">Beauty's Bagels\u003c/a> is hoping to get more herring in the house by this weekend; if they do, says chef-owner Blake Joffe, they'll pickle it in white wine with onion, garlic, allspice, mustard seed, dill, and bay leaf. Once pickled, it will be served over arugula dressed with the pickling liquid, with a bagel and cream cheese on the side. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're looking to source your own, both \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereyfish.com/pages/nav/retail.html\">Monterey Fish Market\u003c/a> in Berkeley \u003ca href=\"http://www.rockridgemarkethall.com/hapuku-fish\"> Hapuku Fish\u003c/a> in Rockridge's Market Hall both have fresh local herring in stock. Kirk Lombard, who runs frequent \u003ca href=\"http://www.seaforager.com/\">Sea Forager tours\u003c/a> around the Bay, does a \"herring alert\" for interested subscribers on his email list to let them know when the fish are running. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77805\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-peppercorn.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/herring-peppercorn.jpg\" alt=\"Fresh herring with pink peppercorns. Photo by Maria Finn\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77805\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fresh herring with pink peppercorns. Photo by Maria Finn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What about catching and cooking your own?\u003c/strong> Bay Area Bites spoke with Maria Finn, author of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/26/the-whole-fish-how-adventurous-eating-of-seafood-can-make-you-healthier-sexier-and-help-save-the-ocean/\">The Whole Fish: How Adventurous Eating of Seafood Can Make You Healthier, Sexier, and Help Save the Ocean\u003c/a>. Finn, who lives on a houseboat in Sausalito's Richardson Bay, has a front-row seat on the season's herring feeding frenzy, as sea lions, sea birds gather in the water just outside her windows when the herring show up. She shared her tips for preparing every part of the fish, below. (For tips and how-to videos on scaling, filleting, and smoking whole fish, check out this \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/06/20/learn-how-to-butcher-smoke-and-can-a-whole-fish-with-chef-neil-davidson/\">post\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finn:\u003c/strong> Last week, I went out on a small boat in Richardson Bay in Sausalito with a neighbor and used a hand-tossed net. However, some people were wading out a few feet and catching them with five-gallon buckets near the Tiburon Ferry landing, so you don't need a boat or net. Just look for the critical mass of sea lions, sea birds, and/or commercial fishing boats. You do need a \u003ca href=\"https://www.dfg.ca.gov/licensing/fishing/\"> sport fishing license\u003c/a> to catch herring; there are one- and two-day licenses available, as well as full-season ones. Also, as I tossed the net amid lots of frolicking sea lions and seals, some seaweed with herring eggs came up, so I save some of that as well. I took about half of a five-gallon bucket of herring, and trust me, that's a lot of fish to clean. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77812\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/salting-herring-roe.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/salting-herring-roe.jpg\" alt=\"Salting herring roes. Photo by Maria Finn\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77812\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salting herring roes. Photo by Maria Finn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Okay, you've got your fish and your seaweed with roe. Now what? Do you treat the male and female fish differently?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finn: \u003c/strong>First, I gutted them. I slit up their bellies very delicately so as to not cut open the egg sacs or milt sacs. The egg sacs I set aside for bottarga. For this, I keep the sacs intact, coat them with a little olive oil, and then salt and put them in the fridge overnight. The next day, I take them out and layer them between salt for a week. After they are stiff, I take out an egg sac, rinse it and grate it over pasta (I like pappardelle by \u003ca href=\"http://communitygrains.com/products/dried-pasta\">Community Grains\u003c/a>) and add some greens like kale and then a poached egg on top. Ridiculously good. With the roe-on-kelp, I mixed them with thinly sliced cucumbers and put a sesame oil-rice vinegar dressing on them. The male \"milt\" or sperm, I dredged in flour, pan-fried in butter, and then spread on toast. (I learned this from Douglas Bernstein at \u003ca href=\"http://www.331fish.com/\">Fish\u003c/a> restaurant in Sausalito). For the fish itself, after gutting, I scaled them, tossed them in olive oil and salt and grilled them. I made a preserved lemon and anchovy sauce to drizzle on them. They were really good!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You mentioned earlier that you shared some of your herring with chef friends. What did they do with them? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finn:\u003c/strong> Andrea Blum, the former chef at \u003ca href=\"http://montalvoarts.org/\">Montalvo Art Center\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kipper\">kippered\u003c/a> some. David Johnson, my next door neighbor, who runs the \u003ca href=\"http://www.daveyjonesdeli.com/\">Davey Jones Deli\u003c/a> nearby, is smoking them for herring salad sandwiches. For the now-cancelled Sausalito herring festival, he had planned to make a herring paella. My neighbor Maude Bradley is also a chef. She took a bag home and made herring in ginger miso and poached herring with garlic, leeks, and olives. Her favorite was Super Bowl snacks of crispy fried salt-and-pepper herring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What about your cats? Did they get any herring treats? Can you use the scraps to catch other fish? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Finn:\u003c/strong> My fat little cats like unhealthy, junk-cat food. So I keep the herring raw (heads, guts, blood lines, etc), grind it up, and slip it into their wet food. Over time, I want to incorporate more and more until they are eating raw, local seafood scraps and not the junk food they love so much now. I also save heads and other parts I don't eat to use for bait when I'm out fishing for stripers or ling cod, or to use to bait my crab pot. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"tagline": "The flip side of gentrification, told through one town",
"info": "Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?",
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},
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"tagline": "Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time",
"info": "KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.",
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},
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"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
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"order": 8
},
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},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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"order": 1
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"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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}
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"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
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"id": "fresh-air",
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"hidden-brain": {
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"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
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"source": "NPR"
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"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"jerrybrown": {
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"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"order": 18
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},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
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},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
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"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
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"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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