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"disqusTitle": "La Fete des Amoureux - Valentine's Day",
"title": "La Fete des Amoureux - Valentine's Day",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/beet_hearts4_300-700031.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Love is nothing short of a national sport here in France and the French claim to celebrate it every day of the year, not just on February 14th. It is more beloved than soccer or philosophical debate, though love plays heavily into both. All store fronts are bedecked with Valentine's decorations but regardless of the time of year, people are always kissing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes it's charming, like this couple below I spotted smooching after a long lunch at the Palais Royal; other times you want to hurl, like when the couple in line in front of you at the post office are slobbering on each other so much so you feel like you are in the front row of the dolphin show at Marine World. Anyways, back to Valentine's Day...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/the_kiss1-755922.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I got a bit carried away with the heart theme. I bought heart dessert plates, too many red flowers, big red chargers and little porcelain heart dishes for the amuse bouche. We cut hundreds of hearts from a block of foie gras, roasted beets and country bread. The dessert was heart shaped, the foie gras amuse was heart shaped, as were the sliced beets and croutons that topped the soup. Fortunately, my friend Jeff came over for a few hours in the early afternoon and saved the day. I immediately delegated all heart cutting duties to Jeff as I began dicing the tiny mango and beet brunois (1mm x 1mm dice). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/mango1-756860.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/beets_peeled-793031.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/beets_mango_brunois-785148.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There were of course a few disasters. It wouldn't be a normal day in my kitchen without at least one or two things going wrong. This time one was culinary, the other travel. I am beginning to think my kitchen is haunted and I know I am cursed travelwise. First I roasted the parsnips to make the soup. I didn't have much time so I cubed the parsnips to roast as quickly as possible. I put the oven on 300F but the parsnips on the lowest sheet pan still burned on the bottom. I spent the next hour carefully slicing off the burned bottoms as my blood pressure creeped north. I had not factored in an hour to slice off burned parsnip into my timeline. ARGH! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/parsnips_burned-703767.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, about midway into my mango brunois-ing my stomach did a flip. I forgot to buy my ticket back to SFO in a week and it expired the previous night! AAACK! I dialed up United and was told my flight from Paris to Frankfurt was still there but the leg from Frankfurt to San Francisco was gone. I took a deep breath and tried not to cry, envisioning Seat 53B next to the bathroom as the last remaining seat. Miraculously my same seats were still available and I bought the ticket right there on the spot. Disaster no.2 avoided and another 20 minutes eaten into my timeline. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For each dinner, I try to cook a different recipe for the main course. I thought about roasting a filet mignon but cooking meat makes me nervous and always involves some sort of drama. This I was desparately trying to avoid. I was flipping through the Canyon Ranch cookbook looking for inspiration when a scallop recipe reminded me of one I made in cooking school. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/to-do-list-708430.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003cbr>a recipe from cooking school and my to do list and timeline...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scallops I can do plus I knew there would be two other cooks at dinner in case things got crazy in the kitchen. I keep forgetting to buy a salad spinner so my dishrack once again saved the day. Necessity is the mother of invention, as they say...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/spinach_arugula-746339.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> I bought rings to stack risotto, then wilted spinach and arugula, topped with sauteed scallops, cut in half crosswise and fanned around in a circle. A drizzle of lemon oil (zest and juice of 3 lemons blended with a cup of olive oil) and some beet and mango brunois on top of the scallops, around the plate and call it a day. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>La Fete des Amoureux! \u003cbr>Valentine's Day!\u003cbr>Samedi, 10 Fevrier 2007\u003cbr>chez Laura en Paris\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/place-setting1-776634.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Brut Cuvee Rose, Champagne Veuve Monnier\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/champagne-772038.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Pate aux Armignac\u003c/b> - Pate with Armignac on Croutons with Cornichons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pate-768806.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Endive avec Framboises et Roquefort\u003c/b> - Endive with Blue Cheese and Raspberries\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/endive-795734.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amuse Bouche\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\u003ci>Chateau de Rolland Sauterne, Barsac 2000\u003c/i>\u003cbr>\u003cb>Petit Coeur de Foie Gras avec Noisettes et Balsamique\u003c/b> - Small Heart of Foie Gras with Chopped Roasted Hazelnuts and Balsamic Reduction Drizzle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/amuse-704150.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Pernand-Vergelesses, Bourgogne 2002 \u003cbr>Sous le Bois de Noel et les Belles Filles\u003c/i> (Under the Christmas Tree and Beautiful Girls)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Potage de Panais avec Couers de Betterave et l'Huile de Truffe\u003c/b> - Parsnip Soup with Beet Hearts, Heart Croutons and Truffle Oil Drizzle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/soup-737942.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/soup_hearts_300-731966.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Coquille Saint-Jacques, Risotto et Epinard avec l'Huile de Citron\u003c/b> - Scallops Stacked with Risotto and Spinach with Lemon Oil Drizzle and Mango and Beet Dice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/scallops_plate_300_top-757854.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/scallops_plate_300-776219.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Domaine de Banneret, Chateauneuf du Pape 2002\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Assiette des Fromages\u003c/b> - Cheese Plate\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/cheese-778895.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Decadence de Chocolat et Glace de la Fruit de Passion Fait Maison\u003c/b> - Chocolate Decadence Heart with Homemade Passionfruit Ice Cream with Passionfruit Coulis \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/dessert_3-752037.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bonne Fete des Amoureaux! Happy Valentine's Day!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/table_candles2-798374.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/gang-702588.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003cbr>Most of my usual posse along with a few new faces... one you might see on the next Top Chef....sssssssh!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>---------------------\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A RED, RED ROSE\u003cbr>by Robert Burns\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>O my luve's like a red, red rose. \u003cbr>That's newly sprung in June; \u003cbr>O my luve's like a melodie \u003cbr>That's sweetly played in tune.\u003cbr>As fair art thou, my bonnie lass, \u003cbr>So deep in luve am I; \u003cbr>And I will love thee still, my Dear, \u003cbr>Till a'the seas gang dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Till a'the seas gang dry, my Dear, \u003cbr>And the rocks melt wi' the sun; \u003cbr>I will luve thee still, my Dear, \u003cbr>While the sands o'life shall run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And fare thee weel my only Luve! \u003cbr>And fare thee weel a while! \u003cbr>And I will come again, my Luve, \u003cbr>Tho' it were ten thousand mile!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>LOVE ME TENDER\u003cbr>by Elvis Presley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Love me tender,\u003cbr>Love me sweet,\u003cbr>Never let me go.\u003cbr>You have made my life complete,\u003cbr>And I love you so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Love me tender,\u003cbr>Love me true,\u003cbr>All my dreams fulfilled.\u003cbr>For my darlin I love you,\u003cbr>And I always will.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Love me tender,\u003cbr>Love me long,\u003cbr>Take me to your heart.\u003cbr>For its there that I belong,\u003cbr>And well never part.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Love me tender,\u003cbr>Love me dear,\u003cbr>Tell me you are mine.\u003cbr>Ill be yours through all the years,\u003cbr>Till the end of time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When at last my dreams come true\u003cbr>Darling this I know\u003cbr>Happiness will follow you\u003cbr>Everywhere you go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/red_roses_300-786534.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": "Love is nothing short of a national sport here in France and the French claim to celebrate it every day of the year, not just on February 14th. It is more beloved than soccer or philosophical debate, though love plays heavily into both. All store fronts are bedecked with Valentine's decorations but regardless of the",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/beet_hearts4_300-700031.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Love is nothing short of a national sport here in France and the French claim to celebrate it every day of the year, not just on February 14th. It is more beloved than soccer or philosophical debate, though love plays heavily into both. All store fronts are bedecked with Valentine's decorations but regardless of the time of year, people are always kissing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes it's charming, like this couple below I spotted smooching after a long lunch at the Palais Royal; other times you want to hurl, like when the couple in line in front of you at the post office are slobbering on each other so much so you feel like you are in the front row of the dolphin show at Marine World. Anyways, back to Valentine's Day...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/the_kiss1-755922.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I got a bit carried away with the heart theme. I bought heart dessert plates, too many red flowers, big red chargers and little porcelain heart dishes for the amuse bouche. We cut hundreds of hearts from a block of foie gras, roasted beets and country bread. The dessert was heart shaped, the foie gras amuse was heart shaped, as were the sliced beets and croutons that topped the soup. Fortunately, my friend Jeff came over for a few hours in the early afternoon and saved the day. I immediately delegated all heart cutting duties to Jeff as I began dicing the tiny mango and beet brunois (1mm x 1mm dice). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/mango1-756860.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/beets_peeled-793031.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/beets_mango_brunois-785148.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There were of course a few disasters. It wouldn't be a normal day in my kitchen without at least one or two things going wrong. This time one was culinary, the other travel. I am beginning to think my kitchen is haunted and I know I am cursed travelwise. First I roasted the parsnips to make the soup. I didn't have much time so I cubed the parsnips to roast as quickly as possible. I put the oven on 300F but the parsnips on the lowest sheet pan still burned on the bottom. I spent the next hour carefully slicing off the burned bottoms as my blood pressure creeped north. I had not factored in an hour to slice off burned parsnip into my timeline. ARGH! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/parsnips_burned-703767.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, about midway into my mango brunois-ing my stomach did a flip. I forgot to buy my ticket back to SFO in a week and it expired the previous night! AAACK! I dialed up United and was told my flight from Paris to Frankfurt was still there but the leg from Frankfurt to San Francisco was gone. I took a deep breath and tried not to cry, envisioning Seat 53B next to the bathroom as the last remaining seat. Miraculously my same seats were still available and I bought the ticket right there on the spot. Disaster no.2 avoided and another 20 minutes eaten into my timeline. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For each dinner, I try to cook a different recipe for the main course. I thought about roasting a filet mignon but cooking meat makes me nervous and always involves some sort of drama. This I was desparately trying to avoid. I was flipping through the Canyon Ranch cookbook looking for inspiration when a scallop recipe reminded me of one I made in cooking school. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/to-do-list-708430.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003cbr>a recipe from cooking school and my to do list and timeline...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scallops I can do plus I knew there would be two other cooks at dinner in case things got crazy in the kitchen. I keep forgetting to buy a salad spinner so my dishrack once again saved the day. Necessity is the mother of invention, as they say...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/spinach_arugula-746339.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> I bought rings to stack risotto, then wilted spinach and arugula, topped with sauteed scallops, cut in half crosswise and fanned around in a circle. A drizzle of lemon oil (zest and juice of 3 lemons blended with a cup of olive oil) and some beet and mango brunois on top of the scallops, around the plate and call it a day. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>La Fete des Amoureux! \u003cbr>Valentine's Day!\u003cbr>Samedi, 10 Fevrier 2007\u003cbr>chez Laura en Paris\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/place-setting1-776634.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Brut Cuvee Rose, Champagne Veuve Monnier\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/champagne-772038.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Pate aux Armignac\u003c/b> - Pate with Armignac on Croutons with Cornichons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pate-768806.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Endive avec Framboises et Roquefort\u003c/b> - Endive with Blue Cheese and Raspberries\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/endive-795734.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amuse Bouche\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\u003ci>Chateau de Rolland Sauterne, Barsac 2000\u003c/i>\u003cbr>\u003cb>Petit Coeur de Foie Gras avec Noisettes et Balsamique\u003c/b> - Small Heart of Foie Gras with Chopped Roasted Hazelnuts and Balsamic Reduction Drizzle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/amuse-704150.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Pernand-Vergelesses, Bourgogne 2002 \u003cbr>Sous le Bois de Noel et les Belles Filles\u003c/i> (Under the Christmas Tree and Beautiful Girls)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Potage de Panais avec Couers de Betterave et l'Huile de Truffe\u003c/b> - Parsnip Soup with Beet Hearts, Heart Croutons and Truffle Oil Drizzle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/soup-737942.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/soup_hearts_300-731966.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Coquille Saint-Jacques, Risotto et Epinard avec l'Huile de Citron\u003c/b> - Scallops Stacked with Risotto and Spinach with Lemon Oil Drizzle and Mango and Beet Dice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/scallops_plate_300_top-757854.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/scallops_plate_300-776219.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Domaine de Banneret, Chateauneuf du Pape 2002\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Assiette des Fromages\u003c/b> - Cheese Plate\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/cheese-778895.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Decadence de Chocolat et Glace de la Fruit de Passion Fait Maison\u003c/b> - Chocolate Decadence Heart with Homemade Passionfruit Ice Cream with Passionfruit Coulis \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/dessert_3-752037.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bonne Fete des Amoureaux! Happy Valentine's Day!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/table_candles2-798374.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/gang-702588.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003cbr>Most of my usual posse along with a few new faces... one you might see on the next Top Chef....sssssssh!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>---------------------\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A RED, RED ROSE\u003cbr>by Robert Burns\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>O my luve's like a red, red rose. \u003cbr>That's newly sprung in June; \u003cbr>O my luve's like a melodie \u003cbr>That's sweetly played in tune.\u003cbr>As fair art thou, my bonnie lass, \u003cbr>So deep in luve am I; \u003cbr>And I will love thee still, my Dear, \u003cbr>Till a'the seas gang dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Till a'the seas gang dry, my Dear, \u003cbr>And the rocks melt wi' the sun; \u003cbr>I will luve thee still, my Dear, \u003cbr>While the sands o'life shall run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And fare thee weel my only Luve! \u003cbr>And fare thee weel a while! \u003cbr>And I will come again, my Luve, \u003cbr>Tho' it were ten thousand mile!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>LOVE ME TENDER\u003cbr>by Elvis Presley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Love me tender,\u003cbr>Love me sweet,\u003cbr>Never let me go.\u003cbr>You have made my life complete,\u003cbr>And I love you so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Love me tender,\u003cbr>Love me true,\u003cbr>All my dreams fulfilled.\u003cbr>For my darlin I love you,\u003cbr>And I always will.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Love me tender,\u003cbr>Love me long,\u003cbr>Take me to your heart.\u003cbr>For its there that I belong,\u003cbr>And well never part.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Love me tender,\u003cbr>Love me dear,\u003cbr>Tell me you are mine.\u003cbr>Ill be yours through all the years,\u003cbr>Till the end of time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When at last my dreams come true\u003cbr>Darling this I know\u003cbr>Happiness will follow you\u003cbr>Everywhere you go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bread-726266.jpg\">\u003cimg alt=\"\" src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bread-721899.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pain is, of course, French for bread. When applying an English reading of the word, it describes the condition of my very soul when faced with the prospect of baking it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For some people, bread making is a passion. There exist people in this world for whom the process is relaxing, even meditative.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not for me. I become anxiety-ridden at the thought of baking it. It's too basic, too fundamentally a part of our everyday existence. Bread, in one form or another, has supported human life in most cultures for several millenia. What if I, a classically-trained cook, screwed it up?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Frankly, I doubt many people would care. I might get a \"Jesus, don't take yourself so seriously.\" comment which, of course, brings to mind one of His more popular sound bytes:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I am the bread of life\u003cbr>he that cometh to me shall never hunger.\" (John 6:35)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh. Would Jesus find disappointment in a baker who won't bake Him? The pressure weighs upon me like a ton of unleavened loaves. That is a Mosaic reference, sorry. I currently can do no better-- it's too early in the morning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In all seriousness, I understand that this is a totally irrational fear, but a real one, like the one I have about driving a car with manual transmission. I could write volumes about my relationship to bread-- my love of consuming it, my loathing of its production. I will keep this brief and spare you the rest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have decided to conquer this culinary fear today. I have decided to make white bread or, as the recipe calls it, American Sandwich Bread. Here goes...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Master Recipe for American Sandwich Bread\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This recipe was taken from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0936184388/kqedorg-20\">The Best Recipe\u003c/a> by the good people at Cook's Illustrated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ingredients:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 1/2 cups bread flour, plus extra for work surface\u003cbr>2 teaspoons salt\u003cbr>1 cup warm milk (110 degrees)\u003cbr>1/3 cup warm water (110 degrees)\u003cbr>2 tablespoons butter, melted\u003cbr>3 tablespoons honey\u003cbr>1 package (about 2 1/4 teaspoons) rapid-rise yeast\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparation:\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Adjust oven rack to low position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Once oven temperature reaches 200 degrees, maintain heat for 10 minutes, then turn off oven heat.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix flour and salt in bowl of standing mixer fitted with dough hook. Mix milk, water, honey, and yeast in 1-quart Pyrex liquid measuring cup. Turn machine to low and slowly add liquid. When dough comes together, increase speed to medium and mix until dough is smooth and satiny, stopping machine two or three times to scrap dough from hook if necessary, about 10 minutes. Turn dough onto lightly floured work surface; knead to form smooth, round ball, about 15 seconds.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place dough in very lightly oiled container or bowl, rubbing dough around bowl to lightly coat. Cover with plastic wrap; place in warm oven until dough doubles in size, 40 to 50 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Gently press dough into rectangle 1 inch thick and no longer than 9 inches. With a long side facing you, roll dough firmly into cylinder, pressing with your fingers to make sure dough sticks to itself. Turn dough seam side up and pinch it closed. Place dough in greased 9 x 5 x 3-inch loaf pan and press it gently so it touches all for sides of pan.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cover with plastic wrap; set aside in warm spot until dough almost doubles in size, 20 to 30 mintues. Heat oven to 350 degrees and place an empty loaf pan on bottom rack. Bring 2 cups water to boil.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove plastic wrap from filled loaf pan and place in oven [ I assumed the authors meant for us to place the filled loaf pan in the oven, not the plastic wrap]. Immediately, pour heated water into empty loaf pan; close oven door. Bake until instant-read thermometer inserted at angle from short end just above pan rim into center of loaf reads 195 degrees, about 40 to 50 minutes. Remove bread from pan, transfer to a wire rack, and cool to room temperature. Slice and serve.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>I did it. I made it. I made it and no one was killed or shamed in the process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bread turned out rather well for a first effort, I think. Except for the top. I didn't pinch the top of the loaf properly (don't snigger). The result-- and not an entirely unpleasant one -- was that, when sliced, the bread took on a shape that looked vaguely like Wisconsin. I toasted it and ate it with great lashings of butter and blackberry preserves. Sorry Thrasso, no marmalade in the house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/toast-736735.jpg\">\u003cimg alt=\"\" src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/toast-729284.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I admit to feeling a bit silly about avoiding this for so long. And relieved. What the hell was I so afraid of? I suppose my big question of the day is this:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is there anyone else out there with performance anxiety (culinarily speaking, of course)?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Baking bread, I have discovered, is like having sex or speaking Spanish. You hear about it. You might watch people doing it late one night on cable television. You discover that there are even classes and workshops to help. You buy the instruction manuals and practice, quietly, when no one else can see you. The important thing is to try. And to practice-- whether alone or with a friend. I know for a fact that sex and Spanish are more practically done with someone else present. It is up to you to decide if that is the correct approach for you in terms of bread baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And try I did. I count that as one more thing to cross off my what-are-you-waiting-for? list of things to do, one more bogey man slain. I'm still not so sure about driving a stick shift, especially in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bakersfederation.org.uk/History_of_Bread.aspx\">\u003cstrong>Learn more about bread\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> at the Federation of Bakers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfbi.com/courses.html\">\u003cstrong>Get some hands on experience\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> at the San Francisco Baking Institute.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bread-726266.jpg\">\u003cimg alt=\"\" src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bread-721899.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pain is, of course, French for bread. When applying an English reading of the word, it describes the condition of my very soul when faced with the prospect of baking it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For some people, bread making is a passion. There exist people in this world for whom the process is relaxing, even meditative.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not for me. I become anxiety-ridden at the thought of baking it. It's too basic, too fundamentally a part of our everyday existence. Bread, in one form or another, has supported human life in most cultures for several millenia. What if I, a classically-trained cook, screwed it up?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Frankly, I doubt many people would care. I might get a \"Jesus, don't take yourself so seriously.\" comment which, of course, brings to mind one of His more popular sound bytes:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I am the bread of life\u003cbr>he that cometh to me shall never hunger.\" (John 6:35)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh. Would Jesus find disappointment in a baker who won't bake Him? The pressure weighs upon me like a ton of unleavened loaves. That is a Mosaic reference, sorry. I currently can do no better-- it's too early in the morning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In all seriousness, I understand that this is a totally irrational fear, but a real one, like the one I have about driving a car with manual transmission. I could write volumes about my relationship to bread-- my love of consuming it, my loathing of its production. I will keep this brief and spare you the rest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have decided to conquer this culinary fear today. I have decided to make white bread or, as the recipe calls it, American Sandwich Bread. Here goes...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Master Recipe for American Sandwich Bread\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This recipe was taken from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0936184388/kqedorg-20\">The Best Recipe\u003c/a> by the good people at Cook's Illustrated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ingredients:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 1/2 cups bread flour, plus extra for work surface\u003cbr>2 teaspoons salt\u003cbr>1 cup warm milk (110 degrees)\u003cbr>1/3 cup warm water (110 degrees)\u003cbr>2 tablespoons butter, melted\u003cbr>3 tablespoons honey\u003cbr>1 package (about 2 1/4 teaspoons) rapid-rise yeast\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparation:\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Adjust oven rack to low position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Once oven temperature reaches 200 degrees, maintain heat for 10 minutes, then turn off oven heat.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix flour and salt in bowl of standing mixer fitted with dough hook. Mix milk, water, honey, and yeast in 1-quart Pyrex liquid measuring cup. Turn machine to low and slowly add liquid. When dough comes together, increase speed to medium and mix until dough is smooth and satiny, stopping machine two or three times to scrap dough from hook if necessary, about 10 minutes. Turn dough onto lightly floured work surface; knead to form smooth, round ball, about 15 seconds.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place dough in very lightly oiled container or bowl, rubbing dough around bowl to lightly coat. Cover with plastic wrap; place in warm oven until dough doubles in size, 40 to 50 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Gently press dough into rectangle 1 inch thick and no longer than 9 inches. With a long side facing you, roll dough firmly into cylinder, pressing with your fingers to make sure dough sticks to itself. Turn dough seam side up and pinch it closed. Place dough in greased 9 x 5 x 3-inch loaf pan and press it gently so it touches all for sides of pan.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cover with plastic wrap; set aside in warm spot until dough almost doubles in size, 20 to 30 mintues. Heat oven to 350 degrees and place an empty loaf pan on bottom rack. Bring 2 cups water to boil.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove plastic wrap from filled loaf pan and place in oven [ I assumed the authors meant for us to place the filled loaf pan in the oven, not the plastic wrap]. Immediately, pour heated water into empty loaf pan; close oven door. Bake until instant-read thermometer inserted at angle from short end just above pan rim into center of loaf reads 195 degrees, about 40 to 50 minutes. Remove bread from pan, transfer to a wire rack, and cool to room temperature. Slice and serve.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>I did it. I made it. I made it and no one was killed or shamed in the process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bread turned out rather well for a first effort, I think. Except for the top. I didn't pinch the top of the loaf properly (don't snigger). The result-- and not an entirely unpleasant one -- was that, when sliced, the bread took on a shape that looked vaguely like Wisconsin. I toasted it and ate it with great lashings of butter and blackberry preserves. Sorry Thrasso, no marmalade in the house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/toast-736735.jpg\">\u003cimg alt=\"\" src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/toast-729284.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I admit to feeling a bit silly about avoiding this for so long. And relieved. What the hell was I so afraid of? I suppose my big question of the day is this:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is there anyone else out there with performance anxiety (culinarily speaking, of course)?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Baking bread, I have discovered, is like having sex or speaking Spanish. You hear about it. You might watch people doing it late one night on cable television. You discover that there are even classes and workshops to help. You buy the instruction manuals and practice, quietly, when no one else can see you. The important thing is to try. And to practice-- whether alone or with a friend. I know for a fact that sex and Spanish are more practically done with someone else present. It is up to you to decide if that is the correct approach for you in terms of bread baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And try I did. I count that as one more thing to cross off my what-are-you-waiting-for? list of things to do, one more bogey man slain. I'm still not so sure about driving a stick shift, especially in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bakersfederation.org.uk/History_of_Bread.aspx\">\u003cstrong>Learn more about bread\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> at the Federation of Bakers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfbi.com/courses.html\">\u003cstrong>Get some hands on experience\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> at the San Francisco Baking Institute.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Coriander Cream, or, A Flavor You Would Not Expect To Be Tasty Sweet",
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"content": "\u003cp>When I'm in the kitchen I like to think about individual ingredients and their personalities. If this peach were a person what would she be like? Would she be my friend or would she be so famous she'd have nothing to do with the likes of me? How would you approach Swiss meringue if she were alone at a bar? Would you be daunted by her smooth sexiness? Or would you blush at her purring demure voice?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's the first word that comes to mind when I say coriander?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bold? Famous? Dashing? Shy? Awkward? Cavalier?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Can you describe what coriander tastes like? All alone, on its own?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If coriander was a musician it might be a base player in a good-looking band. It might not have a lot of stage presence but it would have a quiet following of smart girls. Bohemian. After the show it would smoke some all-natural cigarettes. Coriander, in fact, would probably take the time to roll its own little cigarettes, leaning back in its signature black turtleneck, nodding its floppy haired head.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course I'm talking about dried coriander. What we Californians call cilantro is another story, a whole other personality altogether. A livelier fellow indeed!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because coriander is rarely found as a singled out flavor, but mostly as a back up singer or an under layer in an oil painting, its flavor profile is difficult to distinguish. We add ground coriander to Moroccan dishes where a number of spices are used to build a sauce. It is a necessary ingredient in most curries. A building-block spice. It makes other spices taste deeper, sweeter, more themselves. But because coriander is often used with cumin, cinnamon and other strong spice personalities, finding the soul of this back seat spice is one for a dedicated culinary detective.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/01/redwood-hill-goat-yogurt-granite-or.jsp\">a recent menu I designed\u003c/a> I wanted to create an apple dessert that didn't taste like all the apple desserts I see and eat. Omitting cinnamon is the first way to set a sweet apple concoction apart. But apples do like being sidled up next to spices. Cooking apples in caramel is lovely, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.ferryplazafarmersmarket.com/seasonality/recipes/desserts/dess_fw3.php\">sauteing apples in rosemary caramel\u003c/a> is exquisite. The first time I tasted coriander in a dessert was almost 15 years ago at \u003ca href=\"http://chefdb.com/nm/8427/\">231 Ellsworth when Phil Ogiela\u003c/a> was their pastry chef. My mouth had a coriander tapioca epiphany and it is possible I was never the same afterwards. Ever after since I tried to find ways to incorporate the oft forgotten coriander into desserts I created.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because there are few who do not like whipped cream with a warm apple dessert, I created Coriander Chantilly to both satisfy this comforting pairing, but also to introduce the coriander-as-sweet cynical to its delightful singular self.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think it strange? What will you do with this bizarre recipe?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Give coriander, the background flavor, a chance to surprise you with its malleability, its chamelionesque-ness, its warm, sweet, subtly spicy personality. Ask this seeming wallflower to dance, I promise you will not be wasting your time, or your newly polished shoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>CORIANDER CREAM\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 Tablespoons Coriander Seeds\u003cbr>2 C Heavy Cream, not ultra pasteurized\u003cbr>1/2 Cup Sugar, or to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Toast coriander seeds in a small, non-reactive saucepan over very low flame.\u003cbr>2. When toasted, add 1 1/4 cups cream and sugar.\u003cbr>3. When cream is hot to the touch, whisk briefly and shut off heat and steep for one hour.\u003cbr>4. After steeping, turn on heat and get hot again. Do not boil!\u003cbr>5. Starting at a low setting, puree mixture in a blender. At the fastest setting, blend for a full two minutes.\u003cbr>6. Strain through a fine meshed sieve into a bowl with the other 3/4 cup cold cream. Using a spoon, press out as much of the infused cream from the solids as possible.\u003cbr>7. Chill over an ice bath or in the fridge, uncovered until cold to the touch.\u003cbr>8. Whip cream until desired stiffness, or keep as a liquid to pour over, English-style, any dessert you wish to.\u003cbr>Once chilled, coriander cream will keep, refrigerated, in a tightly covered non-reactive container for 10 days or until the date on the cream carton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coriander cream would be delicious paired with pears, apples, quince, persimmons, sweet squash preparations, and any desserts made with flaky, buttery pastry like pies, turnovers, crisps, and shortbread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoy something new and strange and delicious!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course I'm talking about dried coriander. What we Californians call cilantro is another story, a whole other personality altogether. A livelier fellow indeed!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because coriander is rarely found as a singled out flavor, but mostly as a back up singer or an under layer in an oil painting, its flavor profile is difficult to distinguish. We add ground coriander to Moroccan dishes where a number of spices are used to build a sauce. It is a necessary ingredient in most curries. A building-block spice. It makes other spices taste deeper, sweeter, more themselves. But because coriander is often used with cumin, cinnamon and other strong spice personalities, finding the soul of this back seat spice is one for a dedicated culinary detective.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/01/redwood-hill-goat-yogurt-granite-or.jsp\">a recent menu I designed\u003c/a> I wanted to create an apple dessert that didn't taste like all the apple desserts I see and eat. Omitting cinnamon is the first way to set a sweet apple concoction apart. But apples do like being sidled up next to spices. Cooking apples in caramel is lovely, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.ferryplazafarmersmarket.com/seasonality/recipes/desserts/dess_fw3.php\">sauteing apples in rosemary caramel\u003c/a> is exquisite. The first time I tasted coriander in a dessert was almost 15 years ago at \u003ca href=\"http://chefdb.com/nm/8427/\">231 Ellsworth when Phil Ogiela\u003c/a> was their pastry chef. My mouth had a coriander tapioca epiphany and it is possible I was never the same afterwards. Ever after since I tried to find ways to incorporate the oft forgotten coriander into desserts I created.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because there are few who do not like whipped cream with a warm apple dessert, I created Coriander Chantilly to both satisfy this comforting pairing, but also to introduce the coriander-as-sweet cynical to its delightful singular self.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think it strange? What will you do with this bizarre recipe?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Give coriander, the background flavor, a chance to surprise you with its malleability, its chamelionesque-ness, its warm, sweet, subtly spicy personality. Ask this seeming wallflower to dance, I promise you will not be wasting your time, or your newly polished shoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>CORIANDER CREAM\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 Tablespoons Coriander Seeds\u003cbr>2 C Heavy Cream, not ultra pasteurized\u003cbr>1/2 Cup Sugar, or to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Toast coriander seeds in a small, non-reactive saucepan over very low flame.\u003cbr>2. When toasted, add 1 1/4 cups cream and sugar.\u003cbr>3. When cream is hot to the touch, whisk briefly and shut off heat and steep for one hour.\u003cbr>4. After steeping, turn on heat and get hot again. Do not boil!\u003cbr>5. Starting at a low setting, puree mixture in a blender. At the fastest setting, blend for a full two minutes.\u003cbr>6. Strain through a fine meshed sieve into a bowl with the other 3/4 cup cold cream. Using a spoon, press out as much of the infused cream from the solids as possible.\u003cbr>7. Chill over an ice bath or in the fridge, uncovered until cold to the touch.\u003cbr>8. Whip cream until desired stiffness, or keep as a liquid to pour over, English-style, any dessert you wish to.\u003cbr>Once chilled, coriander cream will keep, refrigerated, in a tightly covered non-reactive container for 10 days or until the date on the cream carton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coriander cream would be delicious paired with pears, apples, quince, persimmons, sweet squash preparations, and any desserts made with flaky, buttery pastry like pies, turnovers, crisps, and shortbread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoy something new and strange and delicious!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/clementine-704516.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/clementine-798648.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wandered into the Whole Foods Market on California and Franklin the other day where I was greeted by giant stacks of citrus. The clementines caught my eye, which was quite easily done due to the sheer volume of the little fruits-- boxes upon boxes of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love tangerines, so I grabbed a box. Ideas kept popping into my head as to how I would use them. Sliced up and drizzled with olive oil, tossed with salt and toasted walnuts, made into pudding, squeezed for juice in the morning and, of course, eaten right out of my hand. Vinaigrettes, granitas, dipped in chocolate and crushed salty cashews. I planned on being one busy fellow in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I got them home, I grabbed one out of the box, peeled off the skin and popped a segment into my mouth. I turned my back to the other surviving clementines, not wanting them to witness the disappointment that had immediately registered on my face. What I had just eaten tasted flabby and rather anemic. Then I remembered something fairly significant in terms of citrus purchasing:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wasn't there a terrible cold snap a couple of weeks ago?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I went online to look up the what happened to the California citrus harvest this year. Nearly three-quarters of our state's citrus crops were destroyed when temperatures dipped into the 20's about two weeks ago. This year has not been good to citrus farmers. I was, however, glad that I had paid my $7.99 as some sort of support. I then realized that I had given Whole Foods Market my money and wondered how much of that actually went to the farmers. Whatever the answer, I thought I should go and make the best of my clementines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I grabbed another clementine. It felt heavy in my hand for its size, as all good citrus should. It was sweet and juicy and unyielding. The first fruit I peeled must have been an anomaly. I decided to go ahead with my first recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pudding-716238.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pudding-710407.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is a buttermilk pudding cake I love to make once or twice a year when meyer lemons are good. I thought I might see how one made with clementines would turn out. There is a very good reason the recipe calls for lemons-- they are, by nature, tart and high in acid-- things critical to the success of the recipe. Clementines, on the other hand, are very sweet and low in acidity-- something I chose to ignore when preparing the dessert. I was so intoxicated by the smell of fruit's rind, which I kept scratching with my fingernail, that I thought enough zest would somehow make the alteration in the recipe work. Sadly, I was wrong. Sadly? Not really. I learned something about why certain foods work in specific situations and why others do not. It wasn't a total wash out. Besides, it at least looked good. Remind me to share the lemon recipe with you one of these days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As I mentioned earlier, I love tangerines. I automatically assumed clementines were a type of tangerine. I was wrong again. While both are members of the Citrus reticulata species, the clementine owes its existence to the cross breeding of the sweet orange and Chinese mandarin and its name to the man who first accidentally bred them at an Algerian orphanage in 1902, Father Clement Rodier. Tangerines, if you hadn't guessed, got their name from the Moroccan port city of Tangiers-- the source of import for most of Europe's supply of the fruit. I suppose citrus growers should be grateful that Pere Clement had a catchy name, otherwise, they might today be growing algerines. Not quite the same market appeal as \"clementines\", to be certain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I went back to the market to buy a tangerine so I might taste it side-by-side with a clementine. The clementine tasted dull when compared to the sweet-tart flavor of the tangerine. Tangerines have sass. Clementines are vaguely cloying and given names such as \"cutie\" or \"little darling\" and tend shed their clothes too quickly-- possibly the type of fruit appropriate for a one night stand. Tangerines, at least, make me want to come back for more. The fate of the clementine-- at least its role in my life-- was sealed. A few lines of a song made so popular by Huckleberry Hound popped into my head:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How I missed her, How I missed her\u003cbr>\nHow I missed my Clementine\u003cbr>\nTill I kissed her little sister\u003cbr>\nAnd forgot my Clementine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm going back to tangerines. Dreadful sorry, Clementine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though not specificallly clementine in nature, the following link is citrus related and made me extremely happy. Check it out if you have nothing better to do. \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jG-0_p_yefg\">See the opera-singing orange\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/clementine-704516.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/clementine-798648.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wandered into the Whole Foods Market on California and Franklin the other day where I was greeted by giant stacks of citrus. The clementines caught my eye, which was quite easily done due to the sheer volume of the little fruits-- boxes upon boxes of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love tangerines, so I grabbed a box. Ideas kept popping into my head as to how I would use them. Sliced up and drizzled with olive oil, tossed with salt and toasted walnuts, made into pudding, squeezed for juice in the morning and, of course, eaten right out of my hand. Vinaigrettes, granitas, dipped in chocolate and crushed salty cashews. I planned on being one busy fellow in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I got them home, I grabbed one out of the box, peeled off the skin and popped a segment into my mouth. I turned my back to the other surviving clementines, not wanting them to witness the disappointment that had immediately registered on my face. What I had just eaten tasted flabby and rather anemic. Then I remembered something fairly significant in terms of citrus purchasing:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wasn't there a terrible cold snap a couple of weeks ago?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I went online to look up the what happened to the California citrus harvest this year. Nearly three-quarters of our state's citrus crops were destroyed when temperatures dipped into the 20's about two weeks ago. This year has not been good to citrus farmers. I was, however, glad that I had paid my $7.99 as some sort of support. I then realized that I had given Whole Foods Market my money and wondered how much of that actually went to the farmers. Whatever the answer, I thought I should go and make the best of my clementines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I grabbed another clementine. It felt heavy in my hand for its size, as all good citrus should. It was sweet and juicy and unyielding. The first fruit I peeled must have been an anomaly. I decided to go ahead with my first recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pudding-716238.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pudding-710407.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is a buttermilk pudding cake I love to make once or twice a year when meyer lemons are good. I thought I might see how one made with clementines would turn out. There is a very good reason the recipe calls for lemons-- they are, by nature, tart and high in acid-- things critical to the success of the recipe. Clementines, on the other hand, are very sweet and low in acidity-- something I chose to ignore when preparing the dessert. I was so intoxicated by the smell of fruit's rind, which I kept scratching with my fingernail, that I thought enough zest would somehow make the alteration in the recipe work. Sadly, I was wrong. Sadly? Not really. I learned something about why certain foods work in specific situations and why others do not. It wasn't a total wash out. Besides, it at least looked good. Remind me to share the lemon recipe with you one of these days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As I mentioned earlier, I love tangerines. I automatically assumed clementines were a type of tangerine. I was wrong again. While both are members of the Citrus reticulata species, the clementine owes its existence to the cross breeding of the sweet orange and Chinese mandarin and its name to the man who first accidentally bred them at an Algerian orphanage in 1902, Father Clement Rodier. Tangerines, if you hadn't guessed, got their name from the Moroccan port city of Tangiers-- the source of import for most of Europe's supply of the fruit. I suppose citrus growers should be grateful that Pere Clement had a catchy name, otherwise, they might today be growing algerines. Not quite the same market appeal as \"clementines\", to be certain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I went back to the market to buy a tangerine so I might taste it side-by-side with a clementine. The clementine tasted dull when compared to the sweet-tart flavor of the tangerine. Tangerines have sass. Clementines are vaguely cloying and given names such as \"cutie\" or \"little darling\" and tend shed their clothes too quickly-- possibly the type of fruit appropriate for a one night stand. Tangerines, at least, make me want to come back for more. The fate of the clementine-- at least its role in my life-- was sealed. A few lines of a song made so popular by Huckleberry Hound popped into my head:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How I missed her, How I missed her\u003cbr>\nHow I missed my Clementine\u003cbr>\nTill I kissed her little sister\u003cbr>\nAnd forgot my Clementine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm going back to tangerines. Dreadful sorry, Clementine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though not specificallly clementine in nature, the following link is citrus related and made me extremely happy. Check it out if you have nothing better to do. \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jG-0_p_yefg\">See the opera-singing orange\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Marion Cunningham's The Breakfast Book Buttermilk Pancakes",
"title": "Marion Cunningham's The Breakfast Book Buttermilk Pancakes",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_8691.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I often ask people what they think of breakfast, and most reply instantly that it is their favorite meal. When pressed to tell what they eat for breakfast, their answers become rather vague. I've decided that they love the idea of breakfast, but they need some good guidance and recipes actually to get them to cook it. Breakfast has remained pure amid all the food trends with their stylish dishes and chic ingredients. The honest simplicity of breakfast is so captivating.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marion Cunningham wrote these timeless words in the introduction to her simply, and aptly named, \u003ca href=\"%3Ca%20href=%22http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/%20%3Chttp://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/%3E%200394555295/kqedorg-20%22%3EThe%20Breakfast%20Book%3C/a%3E%20by%20Marion%20Cunnigham%3C/a%3E\">The Breakfast Book\u003c/a> 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although I own many cookbooks, this sweet little hardcover is covered with the most flour and butter stains. And, upon opening, it turns immediately to page 112, where the recipe for Buttermilk Pancakes sits, near the beginning of a chapter titled Griddling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have fed many a person with this recipe. I've made them with the substitutions Ms. Cunningham suggests, made them plain, and recently taken the liberty of changing their characteristics by moving around some of the ingredient amounts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Internet is full of recipes people love. I receive at least 10 emails a week from \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/\">eggbeater\u003c/a> readers looking for recipes for this or that. Sometimes I reply, as gently as I can muster, that to achieve exactly what they're looking for, they may want or need to experiment a bit to get the baked good of their dreams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I realize few feel comfortable enough with baking in the first place enough to throw caution to the wind and change amounts, methods and substitute. I have two pieces of advice for this:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. When you make something over and over you will get to know it like you know a friend. Recipes with the fewest amounts of ingredients will allow you to see what the nature of each ingredient does inside said recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. After you've made something once, experiment slowly. Meaning: increase, decrease or substitute partially, with small amounts here and there. Make notes on your changes so you can indeed get to know what each ingredient does and does not do to your end result.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have written a number of step-by-step \"tutorials\"* on a few methods/recipes in order to teach people what ingredients do what when and how. The \"why's\" rarely appear in cookbooks because few authors can afford to pay for recipe testing, let alone all the extra pages it would take to go into full explanations for each recipe and its corresponding set of ingredients and method.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But back to the pancakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_8680.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What each of likes and needs from a pancake is dependent on who made our first pancake taste and texture impression. For me it was my mother's mother, my Nanny, Eve Gordon, in her colorful Long Island neon pink paisley wallpapered kitchen. The pancakes were small, un-circles, fairly flat, cooked in a generous amount of \u003ca href=\"http://www.kellerscreamery.com/our-brands/breakstone/\">Breakstone's\u003c/a> whipped sweet butter. The mix was \u003ca href=\"http://www.auntjemima.com/aj_products/pancakeMixes/\">Aunt Jemima\u003c/a>. So of course, to me, this is what the perfect pancake tastes like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time someone made me pancakes \"from scratch\" I was almost 20. The Connecticut boy who made them for me shook his head sadly when he found out I didn't know such a thing could be done. And then he placed maple syrup on the table his family had made the winter previous.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes the best lessons are best learned over the best pancakes and their corresponding sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_8682.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>MARION CUNNINGHAM'S THE BREAKFAST BOOK BUTTERMILK PANCAKES\u003cbr>Adapted by Shuna fish Lydon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 Cup Buttermilk\u003cbr>2 Large eggs\u003cbr>3 Tablespoons unsalted butter, melted\u003cbr>1 Cup all purpose flour\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt\u003cbr>1 teaspoon baking soda, sifted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Put the buttermilk, eggs and melted butter into a mixing bowl. Whisk to combine thoroughly.\u003cbr>2. In another large bowl whisk together flour, salt and sifted baking soda. Make a \"well\" in center.\u003cbr>3. Pour the buttermilk mixture into the center of the \"well\" and stir until combined, but do not over mix-- a few lumps are ok.\u003cbr>4. Heat up a cast iron skillet slowly until medium hot. I place my hand over the surface of the pan, hovering near an inch over the surface. If I feel heat radiating out, it's ready.\u003cbr>5. Melt a small pat of butter in skillet. If the butter immediately browns, turn heat down.\u003cbr>6. Scoop large dollops of batter into prepared pan. Do not crowd pancakes; you will need room to flip them.\u003cbr>7. When bubbles form across the entire surface, flip pancakes. Pancakes should only be flipped once.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I like to heat up my oven and keep a plate inside so that I can place the ready pancakes in there to wait, thereby being able to sit down with the person I'm eating pancakes with. This recipe has made anywhere from 6-8 average sized pancakes, enough for two people with one or two leftover.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_8688.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you like a fluffier pancake add 1/4 teaspoon more baking soda. If you want a butterier pancake, add 1 tablespoon more melted butter or decrease the flour to 3/4 Cup. If you like an even flatter pancake than me, add 1/4 Cup more buttermilk or whole milk. If you want your pancake to be sweet before you slather it with maple syrup or \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/03/the_best_marmal.html\">your favorite marmalade\u003c/a>, add 1 Tablespoon of sugar to the batter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_8690.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*If you're looking for more of the hows and whys concerning how certain ingredients behave in baked goods, I have written these tutorials: \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/07/pie_ii.html\">Pie Dough\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/11/crepes-day-off-activity.jsp\">Crepes\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/02/dacquoise-meringue-detailed.jsp\">Dacquoise/Meringue\u003c/a>, to name a few. And I will be teaching another set of Baking Fundamental classes starting in the Spring. Email me if you're interested.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happy Breakfasting!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_8691.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I often ask people what they think of breakfast, and most reply instantly that it is their favorite meal. When pressed to tell what they eat for breakfast, their answers become rather vague. I've decided that they love the idea of breakfast, but they need some good guidance and recipes actually to get them to cook it. Breakfast has remained pure amid all the food trends with their stylish dishes and chic ingredients. The honest simplicity of breakfast is so captivating.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marion Cunningham wrote these timeless words in the introduction to her simply, and aptly named, \u003ca href=\"%3Ca%20href=%22http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/%20%3Chttp://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/%3E%200394555295/kqedorg-20%22%3EThe%20Breakfast%20Book%3C/a%3E%20by%20Marion%20Cunnigham%3C/a%3E\">The Breakfast Book\u003c/a> 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although I own many cookbooks, this sweet little hardcover is covered with the most flour and butter stains. And, upon opening, it turns immediately to page 112, where the recipe for Buttermilk Pancakes sits, near the beginning of a chapter titled Griddling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have fed many a person with this recipe. I've made them with the substitutions Ms. Cunningham suggests, made them plain, and recently taken the liberty of changing their characteristics by moving around some of the ingredient amounts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Internet is full of recipes people love. I receive at least 10 emails a week from \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/\">eggbeater\u003c/a> readers looking for recipes for this or that. Sometimes I reply, as gently as I can muster, that to achieve exactly what they're looking for, they may want or need to experiment a bit to get the baked good of their dreams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I realize few feel comfortable enough with baking in the first place enough to throw caution to the wind and change amounts, methods and substitute. I have two pieces of advice for this:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. When you make something over and over you will get to know it like you know a friend. Recipes with the fewest amounts of ingredients will allow you to see what the nature of each ingredient does inside said recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. After you've made something once, experiment slowly. Meaning: increase, decrease or substitute partially, with small amounts here and there. Make notes on your changes so you can indeed get to know what each ingredient does and does not do to your end result.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have written a number of step-by-step \"tutorials\"* on a few methods/recipes in order to teach people what ingredients do what when and how. The \"why's\" rarely appear in cookbooks because few authors can afford to pay for recipe testing, let alone all the extra pages it would take to go into full explanations for each recipe and its corresponding set of ingredients and method.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But back to the pancakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_8680.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What each of likes and needs from a pancake is dependent on who made our first pancake taste and texture impression. For me it was my mother's mother, my Nanny, Eve Gordon, in her colorful Long Island neon pink paisley wallpapered kitchen. The pancakes were small, un-circles, fairly flat, cooked in a generous amount of \u003ca href=\"http://www.kellerscreamery.com/our-brands/breakstone/\">Breakstone's\u003c/a> whipped sweet butter. The mix was \u003ca href=\"http://www.auntjemima.com/aj_products/pancakeMixes/\">Aunt Jemima\u003c/a>. So of course, to me, this is what the perfect pancake tastes like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time someone made me pancakes \"from scratch\" I was almost 20. The Connecticut boy who made them for me shook his head sadly when he found out I didn't know such a thing could be done. And then he placed maple syrup on the table his family had made the winter previous.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes the best lessons are best learned over the best pancakes and their corresponding sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_8682.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>MARION CUNNINGHAM'S THE BREAKFAST BOOK BUTTERMILK PANCAKES\u003cbr>Adapted by Shuna fish Lydon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 Cup Buttermilk\u003cbr>2 Large eggs\u003cbr>3 Tablespoons unsalted butter, melted\u003cbr>1 Cup all purpose flour\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt\u003cbr>1 teaspoon baking soda, sifted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Put the buttermilk, eggs and melted butter into a mixing bowl. Whisk to combine thoroughly.\u003cbr>2. In another large bowl whisk together flour, salt and sifted baking soda. Make a \"well\" in center.\u003cbr>3. Pour the buttermilk mixture into the center of the \"well\" and stir until combined, but do not over mix-- a few lumps are ok.\u003cbr>4. Heat up a cast iron skillet slowly until medium hot. I place my hand over the surface of the pan, hovering near an inch over the surface. If I feel heat radiating out, it's ready.\u003cbr>5. Melt a small pat of butter in skillet. If the butter immediately browns, turn heat down.\u003cbr>6. Scoop large dollops of batter into prepared pan. Do not crowd pancakes; you will need room to flip them.\u003cbr>7. When bubbles form across the entire surface, flip pancakes. Pancakes should only be flipped once.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I like to heat up my oven and keep a plate inside so that I can place the ready pancakes in there to wait, thereby being able to sit down with the person I'm eating pancakes with. This recipe has made anywhere from 6-8 average sized pancakes, enough for two people with one or two leftover.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_8688.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you like a fluffier pancake add 1/4 teaspoon more baking soda. If you want a butterier pancake, add 1 tablespoon more melted butter or decrease the flour to 3/4 Cup. If you like an even flatter pancake than me, add 1/4 Cup more buttermilk or whole milk. If you want your pancake to be sweet before you slather it with maple syrup or \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/03/the_best_marmal.html\">your favorite marmalade\u003c/a>, add 1 Tablespoon of sugar to the batter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_8690.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*If you're looking for more of the hows and whys concerning how certain ingredients behave in baked goods, I have written these tutorials: \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/07/pie_ii.html\">Pie Dough\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/11/crepes-day-off-activity.jsp\">Crepes\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/02/dacquoise-meringue-detailed.jsp\">Dacquoise/Meringue\u003c/a>, to name a few. And I will be teaching another set of Baking Fundamental classes starting in the Spring. Email me if you're interested.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happy Breakfasting!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>As \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/12/my_name_is_in_t.html\">some of you know\u003c/a>, I was recently working at \u003ca href=\"http://aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a> again as their pastry chef. As a fruit-inspired pastry chef I found it difficult to start in the middle of winter. Although here in the Bay Area we are lucky enough to have bustling farmers' markets year round, the fruit we see for months on end is not the easiest to work with in a plated dessert context.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plainly said, winter fruit is not sexy. Sure pears are sensual and pomegranates are exotic, but the average restaurant goer orders chocolate desserts in winter. Pastry chefs look to nuts and tropicals and ingredients they forget about as soon as cherries and peaches hit the scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Aziza, where the food is rich with intense spice activity, meats are \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/12/the_onion_liqui.html\">braised for days\u003c/a> and the traditional dish, B'stilla, is made with and covered in sugar, the dessert menu can be a tricky one. I tried to come up with desserts that would be refreshing after Mourad Lahlou's California-French influenced modern Moroccan cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I worked at Aziza before, from 2003-2004, I turned one of my favorite things, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.redwoodhill.com/yogurt.htm\">Redwood Hill goat yogurt\u003c/a> into sorbet. This year I wanted to turn it into something else. I'd made pannacotta and goat cheese mousse at \u003ca href=\"http://www.citizencake.com/\">Citizen Cake\u003c/a>, incorporated it into an Alsatian goat cheesecake at \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/bouchon/bouchon.htm\">Bouchon\u003c/a>, and now it was time for a new frontier. A new texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my perfect world I would not have sweetened it at all. But I know those who love the taste of plain yogurt are few among the American populace. So, as a compromise, I sweetened it with Agave syrup, both \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/04/michael-pollan-on-cornification-of.jsp\">in an attempt to stay away from corn syrup\u003c/a>, and to educate my palate on this \"new\" sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's always useful to use \"an invert sugar\" when making sorbet, granite or ice cream. A sugar that's liquid in its natural state will help lower the freezing temperature, and thus make the mouth-feel of said frozen treat smoother. I like to say it helps the ice molecule, which wants to freeze into a little cube, lie down and flatten into a malleable icy shard which will be more easily led to manipulation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order to get a similar effect many people add alcohol to frozen concoctions, but I'm of the school that if I want something to taste like a cocktail, I'll exacerbate that aspect of it, not hide it behind a lack of a knowledge about how certain liquids freeze and churn for the best outcome.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More than one customer compared the granite to eating snow. As cold as it's been in the Bay Area, sometimes it's better not to fight the chilly air, but go with it! After a meal of hearty stews, rich meat dishes, spicy saucy delicacies or take-out, it's lovely to have a sweet that's not so sweet as it is an inventive way to enliven plain yogurt. A trick up your sleeve, if you'll allow me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>REDWOOD HILL GOAT YOGURT GRANITE\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 Quart Redwood Hill goat yogurt\u003cbr>1/4 Cup Agave syrup*\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*There are many brands available in health food stores or in the \"Natural\" section of your local supermarket. If you shop at \u003ca href=\"http://www.rainbowgrocery.org/\">Rainbow Grocery\u003c/a>, they sell it in bulk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Heat up Agave syrup and pour it into a medium sized bowl.\u003cbr>2. Whisk about 1/3rd of the yogurt into the bowl of Agave syrup.\u003cbr>3. Incorporate the rest of the yogurt into the bowl by whisking thoroughly.\u003cbr>4. Pour bowl's contents into a glass or stainless steel vessel (I use a Pyrex \"lasagna pan.\") and place it in the freezer.\u003cbr>5. Starting at the one hour mark, pull out container and, using a strong dinner fork, scrape yogurt all around to keep it from freezing solid.\u003cbr>6. After the first hour, \"fork\" your mixture every half hour until the granite looks like shards of icy snow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Granite will keep in your freezer in a tightly sealed container for at least a month. If you've found that it is too hard to eat, or is too chunky, place container in your refrigerator for about a half hour to \"temper\" it back to a consistency you can \"fork\" up a bit more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I served the Redwood Hill goat yogurt granite with Meyer lemon sorbet and garnished the bowl with chopped candied citrus peels, but it would also be lovely with pomegranate seeds, citrus segments, or plain, like snow.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>As \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/12/my_name_is_in_t.html\">some of you know\u003c/a>, I was recently working at \u003ca href=\"http://aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a> again as their pastry chef. As a fruit-inspired pastry chef I found it difficult to start in the middle of winter. Although here in the Bay Area we are lucky enough to have bustling farmers' markets year round, the fruit we see for months on end is not the easiest to work with in a plated dessert context.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plainly said, winter fruit is not sexy. Sure pears are sensual and pomegranates are exotic, but the average restaurant goer orders chocolate desserts in winter. Pastry chefs look to nuts and tropicals and ingredients they forget about as soon as cherries and peaches hit the scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Aziza, where the food is rich with intense spice activity, meats are \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/12/the_onion_liqui.html\">braised for days\u003c/a> and the traditional dish, B'stilla, is made with and covered in sugar, the dessert menu can be a tricky one. I tried to come up with desserts that would be refreshing after Mourad Lahlou's California-French influenced modern Moroccan cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I worked at Aziza before, from 2003-2004, I turned one of my favorite things, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.redwoodhill.com/yogurt.htm\">Redwood Hill goat yogurt\u003c/a> into sorbet. This year I wanted to turn it into something else. I'd made pannacotta and goat cheese mousse at \u003ca href=\"http://www.citizencake.com/\">Citizen Cake\u003c/a>, incorporated it into an Alsatian goat cheesecake at \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/bouchon/bouchon.htm\">Bouchon\u003c/a>, and now it was time for a new frontier. A new texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my perfect world I would not have sweetened it at all. But I know those who love the taste of plain yogurt are few among the American populace. So, as a compromise, I sweetened it with Agave syrup, both \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/04/michael-pollan-on-cornification-of.jsp\">in an attempt to stay away from corn syrup\u003c/a>, and to educate my palate on this \"new\" sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's always useful to use \"an invert sugar\" when making sorbet, granite or ice cream. A sugar that's liquid in its natural state will help lower the freezing temperature, and thus make the mouth-feel of said frozen treat smoother. I like to say it helps the ice molecule, which wants to freeze into a little cube, lie down and flatten into a malleable icy shard which will be more easily led to manipulation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order to get a similar effect many people add alcohol to frozen concoctions, but I'm of the school that if I want something to taste like a cocktail, I'll exacerbate that aspect of it, not hide it behind a lack of a knowledge about how certain liquids freeze and churn for the best outcome.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More than one customer compared the granite to eating snow. As cold as it's been in the Bay Area, sometimes it's better not to fight the chilly air, but go with it! After a meal of hearty stews, rich meat dishes, spicy saucy delicacies or take-out, it's lovely to have a sweet that's not so sweet as it is an inventive way to enliven plain yogurt. A trick up your sleeve, if you'll allow me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>REDWOOD HILL GOAT YOGURT GRANITE\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 Quart Redwood Hill goat yogurt\u003cbr>1/4 Cup Agave syrup*\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*There are many brands available in health food stores or in the \"Natural\" section of your local supermarket. If you shop at \u003ca href=\"http://www.rainbowgrocery.org/\">Rainbow Grocery\u003c/a>, they sell it in bulk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Heat up Agave syrup and pour it into a medium sized bowl.\u003cbr>2. Whisk about 1/3rd of the yogurt into the bowl of Agave syrup.\u003cbr>3. Incorporate the rest of the yogurt into the bowl by whisking thoroughly.\u003cbr>4. Pour bowl's contents into a glass or stainless steel vessel (I use a Pyrex \"lasagna pan.\") and place it in the freezer.\u003cbr>5. Starting at the one hour mark, pull out container and, using a strong dinner fork, scrape yogurt all around to keep it from freezing solid.\u003cbr>6. After the first hour, \"fork\" your mixture every half hour until the granite looks like shards of icy snow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Granite will keep in your freezer in a tightly sealed container for at least a month. If you've found that it is too hard to eat, or is too chunky, place container in your refrigerator for about a half hour to \"temper\" it back to a consistency you can \"fork\" up a bit more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I served the Redwood Hill goat yogurt granite with Meyer lemon sorbet and garnished the bowl with chopped candied citrus peels, but it would also be lovely with pomegranate seeds, citrus segments, or plain, like snow.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/DSC_2242-746003.jpg\">\u003cimg alt=\"\" src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/DSC_2242-744238.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I miss snow. Sure, shoveling the driveway ranks up there with washing third-floor bay windows, but building icy forts and sledding right past the edge of safety are among my favorite memories of being a kid. I loved the slow, silent flakes of winter's first snow, the magic of \u003ca href=\"http://www.vtliving.com/maple/sugaronsnow.shtml\">\u003cstrong>maple syrup candy\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, and the crunch of my boots breaking through the late season's deep crust. The very best, of course, were snowball fights with my sister.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Living half a continent away, I've had to figure out other ways of sending her my love. White chocolate truffles are not as hard or as cold or as painful as a frosty, well-aimed projectile, but I guess they'll have to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SNOWBALL TRUFFLES\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The original, quick-and-easy recipe from \u003c/i>Gourmet\u003ci> (Dec 2000) skips the whole nuts, the fleur de sel, the excess rum and the butter bath that you'll find in the recipe below. I obviously like booze, crunchiness and that sweet-salty thing, but both versions are equally yummy. The most important part is to splurge on the best white chocolate you can find. Burlingame-based \u003ca href=\"http://guittard-online.stores.yahoo.net/bakingproducts.html\">\u003cstrong>E. Guittard's\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> wafers are among my favorites. As you can tell from the yield, this recipe was designed for sharing.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 ounces macadamia nuts, lightly toasted\u003cbr>1/2 cup heavy cream\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons rum\u003cbr>1 pound good-quality white chocolate, coarsely chopped\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon fleur de sel (coarse sea salt)\u003cbr>2 tablespoons butter, melted\u003cbr>2 cups desiccated coconut (unsweetened)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Line an 8-by-8-inch pan with plastic film.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Select 64 whole nuts and set aside. Pulse the remaining nuts in the processor until finely ground.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Heat the cream and 1/4 cup rum in a heavy saucepan over low, swirling occasionally, until small bubbles rise. Remove from the heat, add the white chocolate and stir until smooth, returning the pan to a very low flame if needed to melt the chocolate completely. Stir in the ground nuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Pour half the mixture into the lined pan and spread evenly. Arrange the whole nuts in an 8x8 grid over the surface of the chocolate. Sprinkle the fleur de sel over the whole nuts. Carefully spread the remaining half of the chocolate over the nuts with an offset spatula. Cover with plastic film and chill until firm, 4 to 6 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/DSC_2207_2-729485.jpg\">\u003cimg alt=\"\" src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/DSC_2207_2-727721.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Invert the chilled chocolate onto a cutting surface. Cut into 64 cubes, centering a whole nut in each one. Roll each chocolate cube into a ball between your palms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/DSC_2219-726205.jpg\">\u003cimg alt=\"\" src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/DSC_2219-724338.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. After all of the balls have been formed, stir together the butter and remaining 2 tablespoons rum in a small bowl. Dip each ball into the rum-butter mixture, and then roll the ball in coconut to coat completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Chill until firm, letting the truffles return to room temperature before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Makes 64 snowballs.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The original, quick-and-easy recipe from Gourmet (Dec 2000) skips the whole nuts, the fleur de sel, the excess rum and the butter bath that you’ll find in the recipe below. I obviously like booze, crunchiness and that sweet-salty thing, but both versions are equally yummy. The most important part is to splurge on the best white chocolate you can find. Burlingame-based E. Guittard’s wafers are among my favorites. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/DSC_2242-746003.jpg\">\u003cimg alt=\"\" src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/DSC_2242-744238.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I miss snow. Sure, shoveling the driveway ranks up there with washing third-floor bay windows, but building icy forts and sledding right past the edge of safety are among my favorite memories of being a kid. I loved the slow, silent flakes of winter's first snow, the magic of \u003ca href=\"http://www.vtliving.com/maple/sugaronsnow.shtml\">\u003cstrong>maple syrup candy\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, and the crunch of my boots breaking through the late season's deep crust. The very best, of course, were snowball fights with my sister.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Living half a continent away, I've had to figure out other ways of sending her my love. White chocolate truffles are not as hard or as cold or as painful as a frosty, well-aimed projectile, but I guess they'll have to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SNOWBALL TRUFFLES\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The original, quick-and-easy recipe from \u003c/i>Gourmet\u003ci> (Dec 2000) skips the whole nuts, the fleur de sel, the excess rum and the butter bath that you'll find in the recipe below. I obviously like booze, crunchiness and that sweet-salty thing, but both versions are equally yummy. The most important part is to splurge on the best white chocolate you can find. Burlingame-based \u003ca href=\"http://guittard-online.stores.yahoo.net/bakingproducts.html\">\u003cstrong>E. Guittard's\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> wafers are among my favorites. As you can tell from the yield, this recipe was designed for sharing.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 ounces macadamia nuts, lightly toasted\u003cbr>1/2 cup heavy cream\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons rum\u003cbr>1 pound good-quality white chocolate, coarsely chopped\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon fleur de sel (coarse sea salt)\u003cbr>2 tablespoons butter, melted\u003cbr>2 cups desiccated coconut (unsweetened)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Line an 8-by-8-inch pan with plastic film.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Select 64 whole nuts and set aside. Pulse the remaining nuts in the processor until finely ground.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Heat the cream and 1/4 cup rum in a heavy saucepan over low, swirling occasionally, until small bubbles rise. Remove from the heat, add the white chocolate and stir until smooth, returning the pan to a very low flame if needed to melt the chocolate completely. Stir in the ground nuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Pour half the mixture into the lined pan and spread evenly. Arrange the whole nuts in an 8x8 grid over the surface of the chocolate. Sprinkle the fleur de sel over the whole nuts. Carefully spread the remaining half of the chocolate over the nuts with an offset spatula. Cover with plastic film and chill until firm, 4 to 6 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/DSC_2207_2-729485.jpg\">\u003cimg alt=\"\" src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/DSC_2207_2-727721.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Invert the chilled chocolate onto a cutting surface. Cut into 64 cubes, centering a whole nut in each one. Roll each chocolate cube into a ball between your palms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/DSC_2219-726205.jpg\">\u003cimg alt=\"\" src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/DSC_2219-724338.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. After all of the balls have been formed, stir together the butter and remaining 2 tablespoons rum in a small bowl. Dip each ball into the rum-butter mixture, and then roll the ball in coconut to coat completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Chill until firm, letting the truffles return to room temperature before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Makes 64 snowballs.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Hoppin' John",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2006/12/hoppinjohncoins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2006/12/hoppinjohncoins.jpg\" alt=\"black eyed-peas and coins\" width=\"500\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75810\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last year, a friend of mine mentioned he always serves Hoppin' John at his annual New Year's Day party. As an Orange County-raised son of non-Southern parents, I had absolutely no idea what he was talking about. Hoppin' John?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once he finished rolling his eyes at me, he explained that eating black-eyed peas (the primary ingredient of Hoppin' John) was considered lucky if eaten on New Year's Day. The act of eating them is supposed to ensure prosperity, since it was believed that, when cooked, these little legumes resemble coins. Apparently, collard greens are supposed to look like folded dollar bills, too. Southern people seem to have very active imaginations, which is probably why I have such a strong affection for them. I chalk it up to their near-starved state during the Civil War. Union soliders, in an effort to starve out the Confederates and make life generally unpleasant, took whatever food stuffs they could find for themselves, leaving crops like corn and black-eyed peas untouched because, at the time, they were considered pig fodder and, therefore, unfit for human consumption. Black-eyed peas are a symbol of resourcefulness, of survival.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My friend never did know where the name Hoppin' John came from. No one is in agreement as to the etymology of the dish. Some say it comes from a children's game, wherein the little tykes hop around the dinner table chanting and rhyming. Other's say it comes from a one-legged slave who created it. Other sources are suggested, but does it really matter? The dish is here and, hopefully, here to stay. We need all the luck we can find. If it can be found in a little cowpea from North Africa, then so be it. I'm willing to give it a try. It certainly cant hurt, unless I eat a large quantity of them uncooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I missed last year's New Year's Day party and the Hoppin' John. I ate Popeye's Fried Chicken instead. Not surprisingly, my year was not what I would consider remotely prosperous. This year I'm hedging my bets. I suggest you do, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Happy New Year.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Hoppin' John\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>There are countless variations of this recipe (I even found a recipe for Hip Hoppin' John), but the basics remain the same-- black-eyed peas, some sort of smoked pig product, onion and water. Everything else that might be included seems to be a matter of either taste, region or whatever one might think is lucky. Throw in a diced rabbit's foot or a horseshoe-- I doubt anyone would notice. Here's my version:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 6 to 8\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>1 pound dried black-eyed peas\u003cbr>1/4 pound thick slab bacon, diced into 1/4 inch cubes\u003cbr>1 onion, finely diced\u003cbr>2 cloves garlic, minced\u003cbr>1 bay leaf\u003cbr>1 stalk of celery, finely diced\u003cbr>1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes\u003cbr>2 cups water\u003cbr>1/4 teaspoon dried thyme\u003cbr>about 10 shakes from a Tabasco Sauce bottle\u003cbr>roughly the same amount of shakes from a bottle of rice wine vinegar\u003cbr>salt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>1. In a large Dutch Oven, fry up bacon until browned.\u003cbr>2. Turn heat down to a lowish flame. Add celery, onion, garlic and red pepper flakes.\u003cbr>Cook until translucent (about two minutes).\u003cbr>3. Add beans and cover with water.\u003cbr>4. Add bay leaf, thyme and salt.\u003cbr>5. Bring to a simmer, reduce heat to low, cover and cook for about one hour or until al dente-- longer if you want them mushy as some people might insist upon.\u003cbr>6. When done. Add tabasco, vinegar and pepper. Adjust salt, if necessary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve over rice. Throw in a side of greens for extra luck. Sit passively and wait the Publisher's Clearing House representative to arrive in his van with a bouquet of ballons and a gigantic check.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "There are countless variations of this recipe (I even found a recipe for Hip Hoppin’ John), but the basics remain the same– black-eyed peas, some sort of smoked pig product, onion and water. Everything else that might be included seems to be a matter of either taste, region or whatever one might think is lucky. Throw in a diced rabbit’s foot or a horseshoe– I doubt anyone would notice. Here’s my version.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2006/12/hoppinjohncoins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2006/12/hoppinjohncoins.jpg\" alt=\"black eyed-peas and coins\" width=\"500\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75810\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last year, a friend of mine mentioned he always serves Hoppin' John at his annual New Year's Day party. As an Orange County-raised son of non-Southern parents, I had absolutely no idea what he was talking about. Hoppin' John?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once he finished rolling his eyes at me, he explained that eating black-eyed peas (the primary ingredient of Hoppin' John) was considered lucky if eaten on New Year's Day. The act of eating them is supposed to ensure prosperity, since it was believed that, when cooked, these little legumes resemble coins. Apparently, collard greens are supposed to look like folded dollar bills, too. Southern people seem to have very active imaginations, which is probably why I have such a strong affection for them. I chalk it up to their near-starved state during the Civil War. Union soliders, in an effort to starve out the Confederates and make life generally unpleasant, took whatever food stuffs they could find for themselves, leaving crops like corn and black-eyed peas untouched because, at the time, they were considered pig fodder and, therefore, unfit for human consumption. Black-eyed peas are a symbol of resourcefulness, of survival.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My friend never did know where the name Hoppin' John came from. No one is in agreement as to the etymology of the dish. Some say it comes from a children's game, wherein the little tykes hop around the dinner table chanting and rhyming. Other's say it comes from a one-legged slave who created it. Other sources are suggested, but does it really matter? The dish is here and, hopefully, here to stay. We need all the luck we can find. If it can be found in a little cowpea from North Africa, then so be it. I'm willing to give it a try. It certainly cant hurt, unless I eat a large quantity of them uncooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I missed last year's New Year's Day party and the Hoppin' John. I ate Popeye's Fried Chicken instead. Not surprisingly, my year was not what I would consider remotely prosperous. This year I'm hedging my bets. I suggest you do, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Happy New Year.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Hoppin' John\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>There are countless variations of this recipe (I even found a recipe for Hip Hoppin' John), but the basics remain the same-- black-eyed peas, some sort of smoked pig product, onion and water. Everything else that might be included seems to be a matter of either taste, region or whatever one might think is lucky. Throw in a diced rabbit's foot or a horseshoe-- I doubt anyone would notice. Here's my version:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 6 to 8\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>1 pound dried black-eyed peas\u003cbr>1/4 pound thick slab bacon, diced into 1/4 inch cubes\u003cbr>1 onion, finely diced\u003cbr>2 cloves garlic, minced\u003cbr>1 bay leaf\u003cbr>1 stalk of celery, finely diced\u003cbr>1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes\u003cbr>2 cups water\u003cbr>1/4 teaspoon dried thyme\u003cbr>about 10 shakes from a Tabasco Sauce bottle\u003cbr>roughly the same amount of shakes from a bottle of rice wine vinegar\u003cbr>salt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>1. In a large Dutch Oven, fry up bacon until browned.\u003cbr>2. Turn heat down to a lowish flame. Add celery, onion, garlic and red pepper flakes.\u003cbr>Cook until translucent (about two minutes).\u003cbr>3. Add beans and cover with water.\u003cbr>4. Add bay leaf, thyme and salt.\u003cbr>5. Bring to a simmer, reduce heat to low, cover and cook for about one hour or until al dente-- longer if you want them mushy as some people might insist upon.\u003cbr>6. When done. Add tabasco, vinegar and pepper. Adjust salt, if necessary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve over rice. Throw in a side of greens for extra luck. Sit passively and wait the Publisher's Clearing House representative to arrive in his van with a bouquet of ballons and a gigantic check.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Shiksa Matzo Ball Soup",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/stock-789025.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/stock-787132.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's that time of the month. The freezer is overflowing, and I've had it. Given that there are two post-roast chicken carcasses under the frozen mango and buffalo burgers, and to the left of the kaffir lime leaves, I've got what I need to deploy my famous three-step method for making space in the freezer:\u003cbr>1. Cook and eat half box of perogies. (I boiled them and then slathered them with onions sauteed in butter, then added parmesan, then sat down to watch Dr. Phil. Yum. I mean about the perogies, not Dr. Phil.).\u003cbr>2. Remove and drink half bottle of vodka. (No, Kim had nothing to do with this.)\u003cbr>3. Make my famous Shiksa Matzo Ball Soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And here are the steps to making Shiksa Matzo Ball Soup, aka Matzo Ball Soup a la Laslocky:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/stock2-775452.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/stock2-773810.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Step 1: Stock \u003cbr>Two chicken carcasses, carrots, a parsnip or two that had been hiding in the bottom of the vegetable drawer, an onion, some peppercorns, celery with leaves, bay leaf. Cover with water and simmer the hell out of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, before I get to the next part, let me tell you about my matzo ball soup history. For years, my dad has made it, and it was only when I was well into my twenties and decided to make it myself AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS that I discovered that matzo balls are supposed to be soft. And fluffy. And really like a little slice of heaven. My dad is an impatient cook: the steak is always bloody, the eggs are always runny, and now, I know, the matzoh balls are always hard. Anyway, it was quite a revelation when I discovered (and later confirmed at a Jewish deli) that matzo balls are supposed to be like Barbie-sized down pillows, only round, not roughly the consistency of a chunk of parmesan cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bacon-770283.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bacon-768749.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Step 2: Fry the bacon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yep, you heard that right. Now usually I would dispense with that step because I would already have bacon fat on hand, in a tin next to the stove. I'm Hungarian, and that's what we do, because bacon fat is love. But lately I've been a bad Hungarian and I don't have a tin of bacon fat next to the stove. Needless to say, I've not had much love, either.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the bacon is fried, reserve the bacon for another occasion. Like Passover.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or just eat it because it's only four pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now you have a beautiful puddle of bacon fat -- just about two tablespoons. But before you continue and give cardiac arrest to the nearest Jewish grandmother, let it cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/matzo-790948.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/matzo-789302.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Step 3: Make the matzo balls\u003cbr>The package directions are great, just replace the vegetable oil called for with bacon fat. Blend 2 T bacon fat, two lightly beaten eggs, half cup matzo meal, a little salt, and 2 T chicken stock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover and place in the refrigerator for 15 minutes, and meanwhile bring a pot of water to a boil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/balls-788992.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/balls-787712.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Make the matzo balls by rolling them in your palm -- each one should be about one inch in diameter, so you should have a total of 8.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cook them in the boiling water, covered, for 30-40 minutes. (Until they're soft, Daddy, SOFT.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/soup-747138.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/soup-742666.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Step 4: Combine balls and soup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Et voila. Matzo ball soup that increases your cholesterol and makes Jewish grandmas the world over roll over twice in their graves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's that good!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>P.S. In all fairness, I do have to give Papa Laslocky credit this recipe, even though he isn't a shiksa. He still doesn't cook the balls for long enough, but he did introduce the bacon fat idea, good Hungarian that he is.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/stock-789025.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/stock-787132.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's that time of the month. The freezer is overflowing, and I've had it. Given that there are two post-roast chicken carcasses under the frozen mango and buffalo burgers, and to the left of the kaffir lime leaves, I've got what I need to deploy my famous three-step method for making space in the freezer:\u003cbr>1. Cook and eat half box of perogies. (I boiled them and then slathered them with onions sauteed in butter, then added parmesan, then sat down to watch Dr. Phil. Yum. I mean about the perogies, not Dr. Phil.).\u003cbr>2. Remove and drink half bottle of vodka. (No, Kim had nothing to do with this.)\u003cbr>3. Make my famous Shiksa Matzo Ball Soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And here are the steps to making Shiksa Matzo Ball Soup, aka Matzo Ball Soup a la Laslocky:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/stock2-775452.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/stock2-773810.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Step 1: Stock \u003cbr>Two chicken carcasses, carrots, a parsnip or two that had been hiding in the bottom of the vegetable drawer, an onion, some peppercorns, celery with leaves, bay leaf. Cover with water and simmer the hell out of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, before I get to the next part, let me tell you about my matzo ball soup history. For years, my dad has made it, and it was only when I was well into my twenties and decided to make it myself AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS that I discovered that matzo balls are supposed to be soft. And fluffy. And really like a little slice of heaven. My dad is an impatient cook: the steak is always bloody, the eggs are always runny, and now, I know, the matzoh balls are always hard. Anyway, it was quite a revelation when I discovered (and later confirmed at a Jewish deli) that matzo balls are supposed to be like Barbie-sized down pillows, only round, not roughly the consistency of a chunk of parmesan cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bacon-770283.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bacon-768749.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Step 2: Fry the bacon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yep, you heard that right. Now usually I would dispense with that step because I would already have bacon fat on hand, in a tin next to the stove. I'm Hungarian, and that's what we do, because bacon fat is love. But lately I've been a bad Hungarian and I don't have a tin of bacon fat next to the stove. Needless to say, I've not had much love, either.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the bacon is fried, reserve the bacon for another occasion. Like Passover.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or just eat it because it's only four pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now you have a beautiful puddle of bacon fat -- just about two tablespoons. But before you continue and give cardiac arrest to the nearest Jewish grandmother, let it cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/matzo-790948.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/matzo-789302.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Step 3: Make the matzo balls\u003cbr>The package directions are great, just replace the vegetable oil called for with bacon fat. Blend 2 T bacon fat, two lightly beaten eggs, half cup matzo meal, a little salt, and 2 T chicken stock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover and place in the refrigerator for 15 minutes, and meanwhile bring a pot of water to a boil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/balls-788992.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/balls-787712.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Make the matzo balls by rolling them in your palm -- each one should be about one inch in diameter, so you should have a total of 8.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cook them in the boiling water, covered, for 30-40 minutes. (Until they're soft, Daddy, SOFT.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/soup-747138.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/soup-742666.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Step 4: Combine balls and soup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Et voila. Matzo ball soup that increases your cholesterol and makes Jewish grandmas the world over roll over twice in their graves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's that good!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>P.S. In all fairness, I do have to give Papa Laslocky credit this recipe, even though he isn't a shiksa. He still doesn't cook the balls for long enough, but he did introduce the bacon fat idea, good Hungarian that he is.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Gazpacho. Shuna & Athen's Late Summer Fruit Version",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/gazpacho-4-724478.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/gazpacho-4-723007.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One late summer night a few years ago my friend Athen and I set out to what might have been a bold take on salsa. We started out with some amazingly aromatic mangos, cilantro, a few different pieces of stone fruit, various particularly great specimens of melon, and of course we had to get cucumbers for their cooling qualities, and spicy peppers for a hot kick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What we ended up producing came to be known as Melon Gazpacho and I used it as a dessert at \u003ca href=\"http://www.citizencake.com/\">Citizen Cake\u003c/a> as well as \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a>. Topped with seasonal sorbet, either a rare or delicate stone fruit or an heirloom tomato, the concept made an extremely refreshing, low sugar option for the sweet disinclined or the savoury experimentalist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/gazpacho-5-736239.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/gazpacho-5-730372.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This recipe is as exact as the rules for 52 Pick-Up. Whether you use it as a salsa or a soup, I guarantee it's the best way to eat all these fruits together without cooking them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/gazpacho-3-773664.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/gazpacho-3-772144.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>MELON GAZPACHO\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ea. Cucumber\u003cbr>3 ea. 1/2 Melons**\u003cbr>6 ea. Tomatoes*\u003cbr>1/2 bunch Cilantro\u003cbr>2 ea. Limes\u003cbr>1 ea. Jalapeno or Serrano\u003cbr>1-2 ea. Peaches\u003cbr>1-2 ea. Nectarines\u003cbr>1-2 ea. Pluots***\u003cbr>1 ea. Mango, very ripe!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a very large non-reactive bowl squeeze juice of 2 limes.\u003cbr>2. Prep all fruit into varying examples of small to bite-sized pieces, and toss in bowl, mixing with spatula to combine and intermingle with citrus juice.\u003cbr>3. Wash cilantro, shake dry, and chop repetitively until very small. Mix with fruit.\u003cbr>4. Carefully seed hot pepper while wearing latex gloves. Cut pepper into tiny pieces. Taste one piece by itself to decide how much of it you will want in your gazpacho. Season with the pepper accordingly.\u003cbr>4. When you're done prepping mango flesh, squeeze pit juices into bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let \"marinate\" for at least one hour before serving. Gazpacho may be kept upwards of three days in a covered, non-reactive container refrigerated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/gazpacho-2-749808.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/gazpacho-2-748199.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* The more colors and flavors of tomatoes you can acquire, the better your soup will look and each bite will deliver something new. If you know how to peel Sweet 100's/Cherry Tomatoes, these make a fantastic impression in the mouth as well as the hearts of the guests lucky enough to be served this delightful touch.\u003cbr>** I like to use melons of different colors and textures. Jeff McAravy of Short Night Farms has a way with watermelons, The Peach Farm grows the effervescent H'Aogen as well as some other lesser known melons at the peak of their season. (Both farms can be found at the Saturday Ferry Plaza Farmer's Market.)\u003cbr>*** \u003ca href=\"http://blossombluff.com/\">Blossom Bluff\u003c/a> grows the broadest array of plum-apricot mixes. As well as at Ferry Plaza, they can be found at both the Tuesday and the Saturday Berkeley Farmer's Market.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/gazpacho-4-724478.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/gazpacho-4-723007.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One late summer night a few years ago my friend Athen and I set out to what might have been a bold take on salsa. We started out with some amazingly aromatic mangos, cilantro, a few different pieces of stone fruit, various particularly great specimens of melon, and of course we had to get cucumbers for their cooling qualities, and spicy peppers for a hot kick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What we ended up producing came to be known as Melon Gazpacho and I used it as a dessert at \u003ca href=\"http://www.citizencake.com/\">Citizen Cake\u003c/a> as well as \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a>. Topped with seasonal sorbet, either a rare or delicate stone fruit or an heirloom tomato, the concept made an extremely refreshing, low sugar option for the sweet disinclined or the savoury experimentalist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/gazpacho-5-736239.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/gazpacho-5-730372.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This recipe is as exact as the rules for 52 Pick-Up. Whether you use it as a salsa or a soup, I guarantee it's the best way to eat all these fruits together without cooking them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/gazpacho-3-773664.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/gazpacho-3-772144.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>MELON GAZPACHO\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ea. Cucumber\u003cbr>3 ea. 1/2 Melons**\u003cbr>6 ea. Tomatoes*\u003cbr>1/2 bunch Cilantro\u003cbr>2 ea. Limes\u003cbr>1 ea. Jalapeno or Serrano\u003cbr>1-2 ea. Peaches\u003cbr>1-2 ea. Nectarines\u003cbr>1-2 ea. Pluots***\u003cbr>1 ea. Mango, very ripe!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a very large non-reactive bowl squeeze juice of 2 limes.\u003cbr>2. Prep all fruit into varying examples of small to bite-sized pieces, and toss in bowl, mixing with spatula to combine and intermingle with citrus juice.\u003cbr>3. Wash cilantro, shake dry, and chop repetitively until very small. Mix with fruit.\u003cbr>4. Carefully seed hot pepper while wearing latex gloves. Cut pepper into tiny pieces. Taste one piece by itself to decide how much of it you will want in your gazpacho. Season with the pepper accordingly.\u003cbr>4. When you're done prepping mango flesh, squeeze pit juices into bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let \"marinate\" for at least one hour before serving. Gazpacho may be kept upwards of three days in a covered, non-reactive container refrigerated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/gazpacho-2-749808.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/gazpacho-2-748199.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* The more colors and flavors of tomatoes you can acquire, the better your soup will look and each bite will deliver something new. If you know how to peel Sweet 100's/Cherry Tomatoes, these make a fantastic impression in the mouth as well as the hearts of the guests lucky enough to be served this delightful touch.\u003cbr>** I like to use melons of different colors and textures. Jeff McAravy of Short Night Farms has a way with watermelons, The Peach Farm grows the effervescent H'Aogen as well as some other lesser known melons at the peak of their season. (Both farms can be found at the Saturday Ferry Plaza Farmer's Market.)\u003cbr>*** \u003ca href=\"http://blossombluff.com/\">Blossom Bluff\u003c/a> grows the broadest array of plum-apricot mixes. As well as at Ferry Plaza, they can be found at both the Tuesday and the Saturday Berkeley Farmer's Market.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat2-793086.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat2-786673.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> Is it true that until last weekend you were a goat virgin? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>Well, not entirely true. I was a virgin in the sense that I had never procured a goat before, nor had I ever put a goat in my oven. I did however, have my first goat experience at one of my all-time favorite restaurants in NYC, \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://nymag.com/listings/restaurant/prune/index.html\">Prune\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, a few years ago. They did a fabulous pulled goat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> If you HAD to share your bed with a baby lamb or a baby goat, which would you prefer?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>You are a twisted woman. If I were to OWN one, I would choose a goat because I love the way they smell, like goat cheese. And then I could make goat cheese, goat butter, goat yogurt. I probably wouldn't kill it and eat it though.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hey, you didn't answer the question! Try again, babe, and don't be so avoidant! Bed: Goat or sheep, and why?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>Okay okay! I think I'd go for a lamb because they are softer and fuzzier and I'm afraid the goat would eat my sheets. There, are you happy?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> Share with everyone the whole goat back story--it's so dramatic! \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>Okay, so back in October, we (me, my brother, Wendy, and Meghan) went for a long lovely hike up in Redwood Park with my dogs. Meghan mentioned that she wanted to make goat. I, always looking for a culinary adventure, jumped right in and offered my services. Time and the holidays got the best of us, and finally, in January Meghan emailed me and laid down the law with the goat. We decided to make goat in February. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turns out my brother, a recent carnivorous convert (he was a pescetarian/vegetarian for the last 15 years until I made him eat organic, grass-fed rack of veal at Christmas dinner, but that's a whole other story), was coming to visit in mid-Feb. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat3-746302.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat3-740913.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also turns out that my friend Max's birthday was at that time and he was postponing his annual birthday \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2005/02/pig-on-spit.jsp\">pig roast\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> because he and his lovely wife Davina were just \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/02/drinking-cachaca-in-rio.jsp\">\u003cstrong>returning from Brazil\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. Long, confusing story short, we decided to merge the 3 coinciding events and make a whole lot of goat and have a whole lot of people here to eat it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> I hear it's not easy to find goat. Where did you start looking, and what did you wind up with? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>I started at \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.goldengatemeatcompany.com/\">Golden Gate Meat\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> in the Ferry Building. I spoke with Dean, the butcher, about my goat needs, and he contacted his meat guy and then we spoke on the phone a few times. But in February, goat is not that easy to obtain unless you want an entire goat (you can purchase fresh local goat starting in about June). And even though Dean willingly offered to cut it up and cryovac the pieces, I didn't exactly know what I would do with 35 lbs of goat meat. Party favors anyone? I checked a few other places, but I really wanted to find a free-range, organic goat that had a happy life on a farm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat1-762352.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat1-756811.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyway, I ended up going online and found this fantastic ranch in Colorado called \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.foxfirefarms.com/\">Fox Fire Farms\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>. Obviously I would have preferred to support local ranchers, but that was just not an option. And besides, they rocked. I called and spoke with the owners who told me they had two 3-lb goat legs they could send me. They arrived a week later packed in dry ice along with a pound of lamb stew meat and ground lamb. Definitely a small rancher that I would continue to support.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What did the legs look like uncooked? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>Deeply red, meaty, sinewy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More sinewy than lamb? Like goat:lamb as Guy Pearce:Vince Vaughn?\u003c/strong> \u003cbr>Nice analogy. But if Guy was the goat and Vince was the lamb, I think I'd have to change my answer to who I would share my bed with. I'd definitely go with the goat on that one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> Tell us about the recipe you used.\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>I found a recipe online, after a lot of back and forth about how we were going to make it, we finally decided upon Mexican barbacoa style. Of course, when it came down to it, I couldn't follow the recipe because, even thought I've never prepared goat before, I of course thought I could do it better. Anyway, my thoroughly revised recipe is below.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat8-700894.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat8-797252.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you serve up the goat?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>After we shredded it, we tossed it back in the juices from the marinade, then laid it out along with fresh corn tortillas, homemade pickled red onions, queso fresco, salsas, and thick crema. Best damn goat tacos I've ever had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The goat cooked for four hours, right? Surely something funny must have happened during those four hours? Any good goat jokes? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>We made the chile paste the night before and rubbed it all over the goat legs, then let it sit overnight. I woke up quite early the next morning (around 7am) and slid that goat in the oven, so the only thing that really happened was me making coffee. I think my dog curled up next to the oven in anticipation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> So did you give him any, or is he still a goat virgin?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>Oh, he had his way with the goat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Did anyone get drunk waiting for their goat? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>I would say the drinking started around 2pm with the pulling of the goat. I believe I counted 5 bottles of \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cachaca\">cachaca\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> which we were using to make \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.maria-brazil.org/caipirinha.htm\">caipirinhas\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, an ode to Max and Davina's recent trip to So-Am.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You're being avoidant again, but I'll let it go...wouldn't want it to get out that BAB bloggers were a bunch of lushes. So how many other goat virgins were in attendance? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>There were actually quite a few. We took a show of hands just before serving and there were probably at least 15 out of about 30 people. It was quite a party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So, did it taste like chicken? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>No, actually it tasted like really rich pork. It wasn't hoofy at all like I expected. But we also served pulled chile-roasted chicken and our friend Tony made exquisite lamb carnitas with a mint salsa. Oh mama. The funny thing was that by the end of the night, the goat and lamb were nearly gone (we managed to save just enough goat to make goat huevos rancheros the following morning) but there was a ton of chicken left. Enough for me to made a big batch of yummy chicken enchiladas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is 'hoofy' a common gastronomic term or one you made up? It sounds like a term one would use when getting ready to break up with someone. Like \"Gee, this guy is making me so hoofy, I can't wait to be done with it!\"\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>Sounds more like a reason to break up with someone, like \"Ew, he gave me something really hoofy.\" Um, wait, what are we talking about? Oh yes, goat meat. I'm not sure, I think that goat was described to me that way, but I'm not sure where I picked up the \"hoofiness.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tell us about your phobia of never having enough food. Where do you think that comes from? Have you discussed it with your therapist? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>I just have an inner need to feed people and to me, the worst thing is to have a party and not have enough food, so I invariably overdo it. The morning of the goat party I decided I didn't have enough food so we bought two chickens, rubbed them with the remaining chile paste and roasted them, then pulled the meat. We also bought another 100-pack bag of tortillas (from \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chowhound.com/california/boards/sanfrancisco18/messages/75646.html\">La Finca\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, which make the BEST corn tortillas in the bay area in my opinion).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat10-735195.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat10-732014.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Any good comments from your guests about the goat? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>I don't remember, I was too tipsy from all the goat and caiprinhas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Goat Barbacoa\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>About 6 guijillo chiles\u003cbr>10-12 allspice berries\u003cbr>2 teaspoons ground cumin\u003cbr>4 tablespoons dried Mexican oregano\u003cbr>2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves\u003cbr>1 yellow onion, chopped\u003cbr>6 cloves garlic\u003cbr>1/3 cup apple cider vinegar\u003cbr>Two 3-lb legs of goat\u003cbr>Kosher salt\u003cbr>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat4-753606.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat4-742848.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring a teakettle of water to a boil. In a cast iron pan over medium heat, toast the chiles on each side until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Remove from the pan, place in a heatproof bowl, and cover with boiling water. Let sit for 20-30 minutes. Drain the chiles, de-stem and seed them, then add to a blender.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat6-796944.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat6-793687.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, grind the allspice, cumin, and oregano. Add to the blender along with the thyme, onion, garlic, vinegar, and 1/2 cup water. Season the goat all over with plenty of salt and pepper. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat9-719743.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat9-716567.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put into a roasting pan, and rub the chile paste all over the goat. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil and refrigerate overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat13-707514.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat13-703845.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>(Note: we only ended up using about half of the paste, and reserved the other half to marinade something else, like a chicken. It would also probably be great on lamb.)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 300F. Cook the goat for about 4-1/2 to 5 hours, turning once about halfway through, until very tender and falling off the bone. Pour off the juices into a bowl or glass measuring cup and skim off the fat. Shred the meat. Pour the juices back over the meat and toss to combine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat5-735819.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat5-727572.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve with corn tortillas, pickled onions, and crema.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>posted by Kim Goodfriend and Meghan Laslocky\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat2-793086.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat2-786673.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> Is it true that until last weekend you were a goat virgin? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>Well, not entirely true. I was a virgin in the sense that I had never procured a goat before, nor had I ever put a goat in my oven. I did however, have my first goat experience at one of my all-time favorite restaurants in NYC, \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://nymag.com/listings/restaurant/prune/index.html\">Prune\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, a few years ago. They did a fabulous pulled goat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> If you HAD to share your bed with a baby lamb or a baby goat, which would you prefer?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>You are a twisted woman. If I were to OWN one, I would choose a goat because I love the way they smell, like goat cheese. And then I could make goat cheese, goat butter, goat yogurt. I probably wouldn't kill it and eat it though.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hey, you didn't answer the question! Try again, babe, and don't be so avoidant! Bed: Goat or sheep, and why?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>Okay okay! I think I'd go for a lamb because they are softer and fuzzier and I'm afraid the goat would eat my sheets. There, are you happy?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> Share with everyone the whole goat back story--it's so dramatic! \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>Okay, so back in October, we (me, my brother, Wendy, and Meghan) went for a long lovely hike up in Redwood Park with my dogs. Meghan mentioned that she wanted to make goat. I, always looking for a culinary adventure, jumped right in and offered my services. Time and the holidays got the best of us, and finally, in January Meghan emailed me and laid down the law with the goat. We decided to make goat in February. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turns out my brother, a recent carnivorous convert (he was a pescetarian/vegetarian for the last 15 years until I made him eat organic, grass-fed rack of veal at Christmas dinner, but that's a whole other story), was coming to visit in mid-Feb. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat3-746302.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat3-740913.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also turns out that my friend Max's birthday was at that time and he was postponing his annual birthday \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2005/02/pig-on-spit.jsp\">pig roast\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> because he and his lovely wife Davina were just \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/02/drinking-cachaca-in-rio.jsp\">\u003cstrong>returning from Brazil\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. Long, confusing story short, we decided to merge the 3 coinciding events and make a whole lot of goat and have a whole lot of people here to eat it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> I hear it's not easy to find goat. Where did you start looking, and what did you wind up with? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>I started at \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.goldengatemeatcompany.com/\">Golden Gate Meat\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> in the Ferry Building. I spoke with Dean, the butcher, about my goat needs, and he contacted his meat guy and then we spoke on the phone a few times. But in February, goat is not that easy to obtain unless you want an entire goat (you can purchase fresh local goat starting in about June). And even though Dean willingly offered to cut it up and cryovac the pieces, I didn't exactly know what I would do with 35 lbs of goat meat. Party favors anyone? I checked a few other places, but I really wanted to find a free-range, organic goat that had a happy life on a farm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat1-762352.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat1-756811.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyway, I ended up going online and found this fantastic ranch in Colorado called \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.foxfirefarms.com/\">Fox Fire Farms\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>. Obviously I would have preferred to support local ranchers, but that was just not an option. And besides, they rocked. I called and spoke with the owners who told me they had two 3-lb goat legs they could send me. They arrived a week later packed in dry ice along with a pound of lamb stew meat and ground lamb. Definitely a small rancher that I would continue to support.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What did the legs look like uncooked? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>Deeply red, meaty, sinewy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More sinewy than lamb? Like goat:lamb as Guy Pearce:Vince Vaughn?\u003c/strong> \u003cbr>Nice analogy. But if Guy was the goat and Vince was the lamb, I think I'd have to change my answer to who I would share my bed with. I'd definitely go with the goat on that one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> Tell us about the recipe you used.\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>I found a recipe online, after a lot of back and forth about how we were going to make it, we finally decided upon Mexican barbacoa style. Of course, when it came down to it, I couldn't follow the recipe because, even thought I've never prepared goat before, I of course thought I could do it better. Anyway, my thoroughly revised recipe is below.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat8-700894.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat8-797252.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you serve up the goat?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>After we shredded it, we tossed it back in the juices from the marinade, then laid it out along with fresh corn tortillas, homemade pickled red onions, queso fresco, salsas, and thick crema. Best damn goat tacos I've ever had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The goat cooked for four hours, right? Surely something funny must have happened during those four hours? Any good goat jokes? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>We made the chile paste the night before and rubbed it all over the goat legs, then let it sit overnight. I woke up quite early the next morning (around 7am) and slid that goat in the oven, so the only thing that really happened was me making coffee. I think my dog curled up next to the oven in anticipation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> So did you give him any, or is he still a goat virgin?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>Oh, he had his way with the goat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Did anyone get drunk waiting for their goat? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>I would say the drinking started around 2pm with the pulling of the goat. I believe I counted 5 bottles of \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cachaca\">cachaca\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> which we were using to make \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.maria-brazil.org/caipirinha.htm\">caipirinhas\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, an ode to Max and Davina's recent trip to So-Am.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You're being avoidant again, but I'll let it go...wouldn't want it to get out that BAB bloggers were a bunch of lushes. So how many other goat virgins were in attendance? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>There were actually quite a few. We took a show of hands just before serving and there were probably at least 15 out of about 30 people. It was quite a party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So, did it taste like chicken? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>No, actually it tasted like really rich pork. It wasn't hoofy at all like I expected. But we also served pulled chile-roasted chicken and our friend Tony made exquisite lamb carnitas with a mint salsa. Oh mama. The funny thing was that by the end of the night, the goat and lamb were nearly gone (we managed to save just enough goat to make goat huevos rancheros the following morning) but there was a ton of chicken left. Enough for me to made a big batch of yummy chicken enchiladas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is 'hoofy' a common gastronomic term or one you made up? It sounds like a term one would use when getting ready to break up with someone. Like \"Gee, this guy is making me so hoofy, I can't wait to be done with it!\"\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>Sounds more like a reason to break up with someone, like \"Ew, he gave me something really hoofy.\" Um, wait, what are we talking about? Oh yes, goat meat. I'm not sure, I think that goat was described to me that way, but I'm not sure where I picked up the \"hoofiness.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tell us about your phobia of never having enough food. Where do you think that comes from? Have you discussed it with your therapist? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>I just have an inner need to feed people and to me, the worst thing is to have a party and not have enough food, so I invariably overdo it. The morning of the goat party I decided I didn't have enough food so we bought two chickens, rubbed them with the remaining chile paste and roasted them, then pulled the meat. We also bought another 100-pack bag of tortillas (from \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chowhound.com/california/boards/sanfrancisco18/messages/75646.html\">La Finca\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, which make the BEST corn tortillas in the bay area in my opinion).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat10-735195.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat10-732014.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Any good comments from your guests about the goat? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>I don't remember, I was too tipsy from all the goat and caiprinhas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Goat Barbacoa\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>About 6 guijillo chiles\u003cbr>10-12 allspice berries\u003cbr>2 teaspoons ground cumin\u003cbr>4 tablespoons dried Mexican oregano\u003cbr>2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves\u003cbr>1 yellow onion, chopped\u003cbr>6 cloves garlic\u003cbr>1/3 cup apple cider vinegar\u003cbr>Two 3-lb legs of goat\u003cbr>Kosher salt\u003cbr>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat4-753606.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat4-742848.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring a teakettle of water to a boil. In a cast iron pan over medium heat, toast the chiles on each side until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Remove from the pan, place in a heatproof bowl, and cover with boiling water. Let sit for 20-30 minutes. Drain the chiles, de-stem and seed them, then add to a blender.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat6-796944.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat6-793687.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, grind the allspice, cumin, and oregano. Add to the blender along with the thyme, onion, garlic, vinegar, and 1/2 cup water. Season the goat all over with plenty of salt and pepper. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat9-719743.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat9-716567.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put into a roasting pan, and rub the chile paste all over the goat. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil and refrigerate overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat13-707514.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat13-703845.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>(Note: we only ended up using about half of the paste, and reserved the other half to marinade something else, like a chicken. It would also probably be great on lamb.)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 300F. Cook the goat for about 4-1/2 to 5 hours, turning once about halfway through, until very tender and falling off the bone. Pour off the juices into a bowl or glass measuring cup and skim off the fat. Shred the meat. Pour the juices back over the meat and toss to combine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat5-735819.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/goat5-727572.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve with corn tortillas, pickled onions, and crema.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>posted by Kim Goodfriend and Meghan Laslocky\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Adventures with the Zuni Chicken",
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"content": "\u003cp>I cannot follow a recipe to save my life. The irony is that I'm a cookbook editor, so not only do I develop, edit, and insist on changes and re-writes from my authors, but I have my own cache of personal recipes that I've tweaked and toiled over. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that I cannot follow a recipe is nothing against the recipes themselves--you'll often find me devouring a cookbook, pouring over a magazine article, or scrolling through a culinary website. It's just that I can't be bothered to measure much of anything and I'm generally not only willing but wholeheartedly in favor of substitutions (based upon what I've already got in my pantry). Well, and frankly, oftentimes I just don't agree with the way the recipe was written. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/zunicookbook.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/zunicookbook.jpg\" alt=\"The Zuni Cafe Cookbook: A Compendium of Recipes and Cooking Lessons from San Francisco's Beloved Restaurant. Author: Judy Rogers\" width=\"260\" height=\"324\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-74719\">\u003c/a>Occasionally I like to amuse myself, put on a look of furrowed concentration, and hunker down and attempt to follow a recipe. So you can imagine what it meant when I decided to make the Zuni roast chicken and bread salad from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393020436/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The Zuni Cafe Cookbook\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Judy Rodgers. Now, this happens to be one of my favorite cookbooks and it's not because I cook from it on a regular basis (although if I had loads of time, I would). I love it because it's a damn good read. Rogers' culinary sensibility and the level of detail with which she writes is both enticing and challenging. If I follow each detailed step, will I be assured success? How will I measure that success--against the chicken I've eaten at \u003ca href=\"http://www.zunicafe.com/\">\u003cstrong>Zuni\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> countless times? (Here I should insert yet another caveat: The chicken at Zuni is nearly always consistently fantastic--crispy, salty, juicy and set atop a bed of chewy toasted bread hunks with bitter greens and tangy vinaigrette. However, I have sampled versions where the bread is just a bit too stale, the hunks are just a tad too large, and the greens are too few.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All that being said, on Thursday evening I set out to find two small 3-lb birds. After visiting a few higher-end markets, I gave up and decided to pursue it on Friday (she does, after all, suggest that you can salt the birds for 1 to 3 days, so I still had a day). Thwarted again on Friday. Every market had only 5-lb + sized birds! Saturday morning, knowing I would just have to give in, I visited one of my favorite butchers, \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/XjMsOcJkco7nl9qc9w0nFg\">Ver Brugge\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, in Rockridge. Score! They had a pile of Rocky Jr. fryers that were indeed junior sized. I purchased my two 3-pounders and headed home to salt away. So this is where I first veered from the recipe. I didn't measure the salt. I rinsed and dried the birds as instructed, and even used kosher salt as Rodgers suggests (although that's what I always use so if she had called for something else I still would have used kosher), but I just took a handful and rubbed it over the chickens (and a bit under the skin, again veering from the recipe) until they had an even coating. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later that afternoon, I started on the bread salad. As instructed, I trimmed the bottom crust and most of the top crust from the loaf of rustic Italian bread that I was planning to use. But, rather than cut the bread into great hunks, I ripped it into smaller pieces. One of the issues I've had with the dish at the restaurant was that the bread pieces were a bit too large and I wished they were slightly more toasted. So I took it upon myself to change that. Since I need to purchase a new pastry brush, I couldn't brush the oil on each side of the bread chunks, so I tossed them into a bowl with a drizzle of oil. Anyway, back to the recipe. I did broil the bread, which worked beautifully, although I think I probably went a bit longer than I was instructed to, meaning I ended up with crispier croutons rather than chewy chunks with burnished edges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, I made a light vinaigrette which I tossed the bread in, and soaked my currants in red wine vinegar and warm water. But I didn't measure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni1-797051.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni1-792717.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, the big moment arrived, and I cranked up my oven to 475F (against my better judgement). Rodgers suggests using a shallow roasting pan or skillet that is not much larger than the chicken, so I chose my cast-iron pan and an All-Clad saute pan. I have actually roasted chickens in my cast-iron pan before, so I was all for this method, even though the high heat was a bit worrisome to me. Rather than heat the pans on the stovetop, I put them into the oven for about 5 minutes before tossing in the chickens, breast side up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Immediately there was a symphony of sizzling and the skin on the chickens began blistering and bubbling away. After about 10 minutes my entire kitchen filled with smoke, and after 20 minutes, the whole house. With opened windows and better circulation, I turned the chickens (and, as Rodgers assured me in the recipe, given the high heat and because I pre-heated the pans, the skin didn't stick!). They were already gorgeous.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni4-766863.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni4-758693.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the chicken was searing away, I sauteed the garlic, greens onions, and oops, I couldn't help myself and added a chopped shallot. All of this was added to the bread, which was tossed together with the drained currants and a bit of chicken stock, salt, and pepper. As directed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni3-738248.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni3-735240.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The whole mess was piled into a baking dish, covered with foil, and set in the oven to heat during the last 5 minutes of the chicken roast (the final stage of the chicken event is to flip it and crisp the breast once again before removing it and letting it sit for 5 to 10 minutes).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the bread salad was warming and getting a bit more tender (I think I over-toasted my cubes just a bit), I poured the fat out of the hot hot hot pans and made a quick, flavorful pan sauce with the bits in the bottom and some water (as instructed). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni8-787683.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni8-784409.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was tossed in with the bread salad along with handfuls of baby arugula and baby mustard greens, then spread on a large (unwarmed, again not following the recipe) platter. I did however, cut the chicken into pieces and nestle them into the salad. As you can see here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni7-764417.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni7-760379.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All in all, I barely followed the recipe. The ingredients and the general idea behind the recipe was kept intact, and the end result was absolutely delicious. Perhaps next time I'll get out the measuring cups and spoons and try it her way. (Here are my friends Chris and Paul, about to enjoy the chicken with a glass of heavenly Navarro Pinot Noir.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni2-717331.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni2-713658.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>I cannot follow a recipe to save my life. The irony is that I'm a cookbook editor, so not only do I develop, edit, and insist on changes and re-writes from my authors, but I have my own cache of personal recipes that I've tweaked and toiled over. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that I cannot follow a recipe is nothing against the recipes themselves--you'll often find me devouring a cookbook, pouring over a magazine article, or scrolling through a culinary website. It's just that I can't be bothered to measure much of anything and I'm generally not only willing but wholeheartedly in favor of substitutions (based upon what I've already got in my pantry). Well, and frankly, oftentimes I just don't agree with the way the recipe was written. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/zunicookbook.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/zunicookbook.jpg\" alt=\"The Zuni Cafe Cookbook: A Compendium of Recipes and Cooking Lessons from San Francisco's Beloved Restaurant. Author: Judy Rogers\" width=\"260\" height=\"324\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-74719\">\u003c/a>Occasionally I like to amuse myself, put on a look of furrowed concentration, and hunker down and attempt to follow a recipe. So you can imagine what it meant when I decided to make the Zuni roast chicken and bread salad from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393020436/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The Zuni Cafe Cookbook\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Judy Rodgers. Now, this happens to be one of my favorite cookbooks and it's not because I cook from it on a regular basis (although if I had loads of time, I would). I love it because it's a damn good read. Rogers' culinary sensibility and the level of detail with which she writes is both enticing and challenging. If I follow each detailed step, will I be assured success? How will I measure that success--against the chicken I've eaten at \u003ca href=\"http://www.zunicafe.com/\">\u003cstrong>Zuni\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> countless times? (Here I should insert yet another caveat: The chicken at Zuni is nearly always consistently fantastic--crispy, salty, juicy and set atop a bed of chewy toasted bread hunks with bitter greens and tangy vinaigrette. However, I have sampled versions where the bread is just a bit too stale, the hunks are just a tad too large, and the greens are too few.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All that being said, on Thursday evening I set out to find two small 3-lb birds. After visiting a few higher-end markets, I gave up and decided to pursue it on Friday (she does, after all, suggest that you can salt the birds for 1 to 3 days, so I still had a day). Thwarted again on Friday. Every market had only 5-lb + sized birds! Saturday morning, knowing I would just have to give in, I visited one of my favorite butchers, \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/XjMsOcJkco7nl9qc9w0nFg\">Ver Brugge\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, in Rockridge. Score! They had a pile of Rocky Jr. fryers that were indeed junior sized. I purchased my two 3-pounders and headed home to salt away. So this is where I first veered from the recipe. I didn't measure the salt. I rinsed and dried the birds as instructed, and even used kosher salt as Rodgers suggests (although that's what I always use so if she had called for something else I still would have used kosher), but I just took a handful and rubbed it over the chickens (and a bit under the skin, again veering from the recipe) until they had an even coating. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later that afternoon, I started on the bread salad. As instructed, I trimmed the bottom crust and most of the top crust from the loaf of rustic Italian bread that I was planning to use. But, rather than cut the bread into great hunks, I ripped it into smaller pieces. One of the issues I've had with the dish at the restaurant was that the bread pieces were a bit too large and I wished they were slightly more toasted. So I took it upon myself to change that. Since I need to purchase a new pastry brush, I couldn't brush the oil on each side of the bread chunks, so I tossed them into a bowl with a drizzle of oil. Anyway, back to the recipe. I did broil the bread, which worked beautifully, although I think I probably went a bit longer than I was instructed to, meaning I ended up with crispier croutons rather than chewy chunks with burnished edges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, I made a light vinaigrette which I tossed the bread in, and soaked my currants in red wine vinegar and warm water. But I didn't measure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni1-797051.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni1-792717.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, the big moment arrived, and I cranked up my oven to 475F (against my better judgement). Rodgers suggests using a shallow roasting pan or skillet that is not much larger than the chicken, so I chose my cast-iron pan and an All-Clad saute pan. I have actually roasted chickens in my cast-iron pan before, so I was all for this method, even though the high heat was a bit worrisome to me. Rather than heat the pans on the stovetop, I put them into the oven for about 5 minutes before tossing in the chickens, breast side up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Immediately there was a symphony of sizzling and the skin on the chickens began blistering and bubbling away. After about 10 minutes my entire kitchen filled with smoke, and after 20 minutes, the whole house. With opened windows and better circulation, I turned the chickens (and, as Rodgers assured me in the recipe, given the high heat and because I pre-heated the pans, the skin didn't stick!). They were already gorgeous.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni4-766863.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni4-758693.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the chicken was searing away, I sauteed the garlic, greens onions, and oops, I couldn't help myself and added a chopped shallot. All of this was added to the bread, which was tossed together with the drained currants and a bit of chicken stock, salt, and pepper. As directed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni3-738248.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni3-735240.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The whole mess was piled into a baking dish, covered with foil, and set in the oven to heat during the last 5 minutes of the chicken roast (the final stage of the chicken event is to flip it and crisp the breast once again before removing it and letting it sit for 5 to 10 minutes).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the bread salad was warming and getting a bit more tender (I think I over-toasted my cubes just a bit), I poured the fat out of the hot hot hot pans and made a quick, flavorful pan sauce with the bits in the bottom and some water (as instructed). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni8-787683.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni8-784409.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was tossed in with the bread salad along with handfuls of baby arugula and baby mustard greens, then spread on a large (unwarmed, again not following the recipe) platter. I did however, cut the chicken into pieces and nestle them into the salad. As you can see here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni7-764417.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/zuni7-760379.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All in all, I barely followed the recipe. The ingredients and the general idea behind the recipe was kept intact, and the end result was absolutely delicious. Perhaps next time I'll get out the measuring cups and spoons and try it her way. (Here are my friends Chris and Paul, about to enjoy the chicken with a glass of heavenly Navarro Pinot Noir.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"soldout": {
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