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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As one of my colleagues said the other day, the farmers markets are \"lousy with strawberries.\" I don't mind the glut, as my own last meal would be a bowl of strawberries, a taste of life short and sweet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best way to eat the fruit is whole, out of hand, one after the other until they're entirely gone. There are, of course, many ways to gild the lily: strawberries and balsamic vinegar, strawberries and brown sugar, strawberries and red wine, strawberries and cream, strawberry shortcake, strawberries and rhubarb pie....\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're driving on Highway 1 just north of Santa Cruz, be sure to stop at \u003ca href=\"http://www.swantonberryfarm.com/\">\u003cstrong>Swanton Berry Farm\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. Next to their U-pick strawberry fields in Davenport, you'll find their Farm Stand. With its old-fashioned honor till, the store offers fresh-made pies, shortcake, cobbler and jams. Everything there is made by the farm's own staff with berries they grow themselves. A flat of sweet, ripe strawberries costs only $15 dollars. They have the best berries around, but there are a couple of other reasons why I support their farm. Swanton devotes itself to strict organic standards, and they employ field laborers who all belong to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ufw.org/\">\u003cstrong>United Farm Workers\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The last time I was there, I went a little crazy and got two flats and a blackberry pie. (For non-gluttons: 1 flat = 6 baskets.) Finishing three baskets myself on the winding road back, I macerated a couple more baskets in fresh orange juice for shortcake and then sugared the rest for jam as soon as I got back home. I've learned the hard way that organic strawberries don't last as long as conventional, but making jam is my own way of stretching out their flavor as long as I can.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My cheater's strawberry sherbet is another recipe that I only make when the freshest, sweetest strawberries are coming to market. Food Editor Pasty Jamieson gave it to me over a dozen years ago, while I was her intern at \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/\">\u003cstrong>\u003ci>Eating Well Magazine\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in Vermont, far from California's warm fields. Back then, all I owned fit into three cardboard boxes and one suitcase. I still make this treat every spring and summer because it's so easy and so good. There have been flirtations with fancier versions, like lemongrass syrup or thyme-infused buttermilk, but I've always returned to the flavor of simpler times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Strawberry Buttermilk Quick Sherbet\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trim calyx leaves from a pint of strawberries and arrange them in a single layer on a tray or baking sheet. Freeze until hard entirely through. Transfer the strawberries to the bowl of a food processor. Sprinkle in 2 tablespoons of buttermilk, 1 to 2 tablespoons of sugar, and a squirt of fresh lemon juice. Pulse until smooth, scraping down the sides as needed. For a softer texture, add up to 1 more tablespoon of buttermilk, and then adjust sweet and sour to your taste. Serve immediately or transfer to an air-tight container and freeze up to a week.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As one of my colleagues said the other day, the farmers markets are \"lousy with strawberries.\" I don't mind the glut, as my own last meal would be a bowl of strawberries, a taste of life short and sweet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best way to eat the fruit is whole, out of hand, one after the other until they're entirely gone. There are, of course, many ways to gild the lily: strawberries and balsamic vinegar, strawberries and brown sugar, strawberries and red wine, strawberries and cream, strawberry shortcake, strawberries and rhubarb pie....\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're driving on Highway 1 just north of Santa Cruz, be sure to stop at \u003ca href=\"http://www.swantonberryfarm.com/\">\u003cstrong>Swanton Berry Farm\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. Next to their U-pick strawberry fields in Davenport, you'll find their Farm Stand. With its old-fashioned honor till, the store offers fresh-made pies, shortcake, cobbler and jams. Everything there is made by the farm's own staff with berries they grow themselves. A flat of sweet, ripe strawberries costs only $15 dollars. They have the best berries around, but there are a couple of other reasons why I support their farm. Swanton devotes itself to strict organic standards, and they employ field laborers who all belong to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ufw.org/\">\u003cstrong>United Farm Workers\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The last time I was there, I went a little crazy and got two flats and a blackberry pie. (For non-gluttons: 1 flat = 6 baskets.) Finishing three baskets myself on the winding road back, I macerated a couple more baskets in fresh orange juice for shortcake and then sugared the rest for jam as soon as I got back home. I've learned the hard way that organic strawberries don't last as long as conventional, but making jam is my own way of stretching out their flavor as long as I can.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My cheater's strawberry sherbet is another recipe that I only make when the freshest, sweetest strawberries are coming to market. Food Editor Pasty Jamieson gave it to me over a dozen years ago, while I was her intern at \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/\">\u003cstrong>\u003ci>Eating Well Magazine\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in Vermont, far from California's warm fields. Back then, all I owned fit into three cardboard boxes and one suitcase. I still make this treat every spring and summer because it's so easy and so good. There have been flirtations with fancier versions, like lemongrass syrup or thyme-infused buttermilk, but I've always returned to the flavor of simpler times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Strawberry Buttermilk Quick Sherbet\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trim calyx leaves from a pint of strawberries and arrange them in a single layer on a tray or baking sheet. Freeze until hard entirely through. Transfer the strawberries to the bowl of a food processor. Sprinkle in 2 tablespoons of buttermilk, 1 to 2 tablespoons of sugar, and a squirt of fresh lemon juice. Pulse until smooth, scraping down the sides as needed. For a softer texture, add up to 1 more tablespoon of buttermilk, and then adjust sweet and sour to your taste. Serve immediately or transfer to an air-tight container and freeze up to a week.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Picnic in the Park: Bacon Bites",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We each need a good food buddy or two. Mine is a petite Filipina who can eat anyone under the table. Cindy modestly claims it's all about the pacing, but those of us who've had the pleasure of dining with her know that it's really 1) her absolute love of anything sweet, sour, spicy or savory, and 2) a secret second stomach. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, yesterday, when I found her picnic spot in Golden Gate Park, I wasn't surprised to see that more blankets were dedicated to the spread of food than to her widening circle of guests. It was like a sprawling landscape of culinary discoveries. Others are content with plastic containers of potato salad or some Italian sausages or maybe a hamburger patty or two. Not Cindy. She was already passing around plates of steak with chimichurri sauce, paper thin slices of headcheese, and expertly tied bacon bites. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best things about a true food buddy is an openness to tasting anything and the gusto of enjoying everything. Whether it's her own cupcakes with chocolate ganache or Nutter Butters topped with \u003ca href=\"http://www.junetaylorjams.com/\">\u003cstrong>June Taylor\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> plum conserve, she relishes all food to the very last plate-scrape and finger-lick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ate nonstop for 5 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fig and Nectarine Bacon Bites\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>These are simple to make yet very, very good. Bring bacon bites for your next potluck picnic and see how many new friends you make.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Trim off the stem tips of fresh figs and slice nectarines into thick wedges. Cut each strip of bacon lengthwise into two thinner strips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Wrap each piece of fruit carefully with a ribbon of fatty goodnes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Sear the bacon bites at the edge of the grill, where it's not quite so hot, or wait until the coals are dying down at the end of the picnic. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve over baby arugula leaves as a salad or nibble as is, hot and glistening, for dessert. I think they would be lovely over vanilla or caramel ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We each need a good food buddy or two. Mine is a petite Filipina who can eat anyone under the table. Cindy modestly claims it's all about the pacing, but those of us who've had the pleasure of dining with her know that it's really 1) her absolute love of anything sweet, sour, spicy or savory, and 2) a secret second stomach. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, yesterday, when I found her picnic spot in Golden Gate Park, I wasn't surprised to see that more blankets were dedicated to the spread of food than to her widening circle of guests. It was like a sprawling landscape of culinary discoveries. Others are content with plastic containers of potato salad or some Italian sausages or maybe a hamburger patty or two. Not Cindy. She was already passing around plates of steak with chimichurri sauce, paper thin slices of headcheese, and expertly tied bacon bites. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best things about a true food buddy is an openness to tasting anything and the gusto of enjoying everything. Whether it's her own cupcakes with chocolate ganache or Nutter Butters topped with \u003ca href=\"http://www.junetaylorjams.com/\">\u003cstrong>June Taylor\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> plum conserve, she relishes all food to the very last plate-scrape and finger-lick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ate nonstop for 5 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fig and Nectarine Bacon Bites\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>These are simple to make yet very, very good. Bring bacon bites for your next potluck picnic and see how many new friends you make.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Trim off the stem tips of fresh figs and slice nectarines into thick wedges. Cut each strip of bacon lengthwise into two thinner strips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Wrap each piece of fruit carefully with a ribbon of fatty goodnes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Sear the bacon bites at the edge of the grill, where it's not quite so hot, or wait until the coals are dying down at the end of the picnic. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve over baby arugula leaves as a salad or nibble as is, hot and glistening, for dessert. I think they would be lovely over vanilla or caramel ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Getting Stuffed",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/stuffed-pepper-736296.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/stuffed-pepper-735665.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been feeling a bit nostalgic lately, which isn't terribly surprising considering the fact that I am usually found in a state of past-reflection. That's not to say that I can't focus on the present as well as others. I can, especially since paying close attention to the here-and-now comes in handy when, well, the here-and-now eventually becomes the there-and-then.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A short while ago, I made a comment to friends that my mother didn't really cook. What I meant was that, unlike the fantasy version of my mother I wish I had had (culinarily-speaking), my real-life mom was never seen floating about the kitchen baking pies or putting up strawberry preserves from fruit picked ripe from our garden. We did, in fact, have strawberries growing in our back yard but, in the heat of summer, it was generally a race to see who could get to them first-- us or the garden snails. Besides, one was never certain if one of the dogs hadn't peed on them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The truth is that my mother did cook. And she did it rather well, I think. It sounds noble of me, I know, but I have forgiven her lack of enthusiasm for daily meal preparation. The fact that she, as a single mother, managed to feed two sullen teenagers and a hyperactive pre-adolescent without relying heavily on fast food take-out while working 40 hours a week now strikes me as utterly amazing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Often, she was time efficient-- making large batches of food stuffs that froze well. She'd make a gallon of pasta sauce and meatballs and freeze them in empty plastic containers that once housed whipped topping or Country Crock margarine. Though the former contents may not have been especially noteworthy, her red sauce and meatballs were as good as my Sicilian paternal grandmothers-- apparently, learning to make them was a pre-condition to marrying my father. Not bad for a white girl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The traumatizing effects of stew night aside (I would sometimes cry when I saw it simmering on the stove top, spend dinner time loading mouthfuls of it into my heavily-napkined lap and request to make repeated trips to the garbage can), dinners were generally tasty affairs. One of my favorite non-special occasion meals she'd prepare was stuffed bell peppers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It struck me as odd that I would remember this dish as one of my favorites, considering the fact that the peppers in question were invariably green as they pretty much all were thirty-odd years ago. I still don't much care for them. What I loved about them was the fact that the pepper (which I ignored) was simply a bit of negative space waiting to be filled by what was basically my mother's meatballs, but with a little rice mixed in to make it stuffed-peppery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd never made stuffed peppers before, but I decided to give it a go this week. What I find appealing about stuffed peppers is that, basically, one can stuff them with whatever you want. As long as it's edible, I mean. I take that back. Stuff them with whatever the hell you feel like stuffing them with. I would hate to be accused of stifling anyone's creativity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mexicans have probably been stuffing peppers ever since they began cultivating them some 6,000 years ago. When they were brought to Europe from the New World, the Italians, Greeks, Hungarians and Spanish took a liking to them. When they made their way back to the Americas (yes, they were here the whole time, I know), Southerners took to stuffing them, too. Meat, rice, bulgar wheat, cheese-- you name it-- has made it's way into the sweet pepper with more or less successful results.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I chose a somewhat Greek approach to stuffing a pepper. Perhaps stating that I used typically Greek ingredients, for the most part, might avoid unnecessary giggling. I just thought my particular attack was tasty. Remember, there is no right and there is no wrong. At least, not that I am willing to get into this morning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stuffed Peppers\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ingredients\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 red bell peppers (or whatever color most pleases you and your budget)\u003cbr>1 pound ground lamb\u003cbr>1 yellow onion, finely chopped\u003cbr>4 cloves of garlic, finely chopped\u003cbr>1 zucchini, diced fairly small\u003cbr>3 tablespoons of olive oil\u003cbr>1/2 cup cooked white rice, cooled\u003cbr>1 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>a rather large amount of black pepper\u003cbr>1 teaspoon ground nutmeg\u003cbr>1 teaspoon gound allspice\u003cbr>1 large egg\u003cbr>1/4 cup feta or goat cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparation: \u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Pre-heat oven to 375 F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Saute (or sweat, in this case) onion and garlic in one tablespoon of olive oil on medium heat until translucent. Set aside. Turn up the heat and add the second tablespoon of oil and then the ground lamb. Brown, please. Add third tablespoon of oil and then zucchini. Cook until just slightly softened and a tad brighter in color. Toss the onion mixture, lamb and zucchini together.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>I suppose before you've taken on steps one and two you could have washed and sliced the tops of the peppers and, if they aren't behaving as they should and sitting up straight, you might cut their bottoms and forcibly make them do so. Free them of their seeds and ribbing. I choose to blanch the peppers as well, which cuts down on oven time.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add salt, pepper, allspice, nutmeg, egg, cheese and rice to the stuffing mixture, combining well.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fill the empty inner spaces of the peppers with the stuffing and place in a casserole or dutch oven-- something not too shallow. Peppers are fairly social creatures, so keep them close together, but do allow them some space-- they need to feel the hot oven air circulate around them. Oh, and add some water or stock to the bottom of the dish to prevent the peppers from burning. At this point, I rub the tops of the peppers with olive oil and salt and place them in a pan to roast along side the peppers themselves. Not necessary, but I don't see why not.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>When the peppers are sufficiently roasted (like, in about 30 minutes), dot the top of the stuffed peppers with more cheese and place under the broiler to brown.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Serve hot.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>My mother, and lots of other people besides her, serve peppers with some sort of tomato sauce. I decided to accompany mine with something a little lighter and sharper. It's almost completely mindless...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Garlic and Mint Yogurt Sauce:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ingredients:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup plain yogurt (Greek is good, but I think too thick for this. Save it for eating with honey)\u003cbr>4 cloves garlic, minced\u003cbr>several leaves of mint, chiffonaded\u003cbr>a pinch pr two of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparation:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix all the above ingredients in a bowl and whisk together. Serve. Or, better to let this sit in the fridge overnight so the flavors can get to know each other better. I hope you took notes on that one.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/stuffed-pepper-736296.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/stuffed-pepper-735665.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been feeling a bit nostalgic lately, which isn't terribly surprising considering the fact that I am usually found in a state of past-reflection. That's not to say that I can't focus on the present as well as others. I can, especially since paying close attention to the here-and-now comes in handy when, well, the here-and-now eventually becomes the there-and-then.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A short while ago, I made a comment to friends that my mother didn't really cook. What I meant was that, unlike the fantasy version of my mother I wish I had had (culinarily-speaking), my real-life mom was never seen floating about the kitchen baking pies or putting up strawberry preserves from fruit picked ripe from our garden. We did, in fact, have strawberries growing in our back yard but, in the heat of summer, it was generally a race to see who could get to them first-- us or the garden snails. Besides, one was never certain if one of the dogs hadn't peed on them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The truth is that my mother did cook. And she did it rather well, I think. It sounds noble of me, I know, but I have forgiven her lack of enthusiasm for daily meal preparation. The fact that she, as a single mother, managed to feed two sullen teenagers and a hyperactive pre-adolescent without relying heavily on fast food take-out while working 40 hours a week now strikes me as utterly amazing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Often, she was time efficient-- making large batches of food stuffs that froze well. She'd make a gallon of pasta sauce and meatballs and freeze them in empty plastic containers that once housed whipped topping or Country Crock margarine. Though the former contents may not have been especially noteworthy, her red sauce and meatballs were as good as my Sicilian paternal grandmothers-- apparently, learning to make them was a pre-condition to marrying my father. Not bad for a white girl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The traumatizing effects of stew night aside (I would sometimes cry when I saw it simmering on the stove top, spend dinner time loading mouthfuls of it into my heavily-napkined lap and request to make repeated trips to the garbage can), dinners were generally tasty affairs. One of my favorite non-special occasion meals she'd prepare was stuffed bell peppers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It struck me as odd that I would remember this dish as one of my favorites, considering the fact that the peppers in question were invariably green as they pretty much all were thirty-odd years ago. I still don't much care for them. What I loved about them was the fact that the pepper (which I ignored) was simply a bit of negative space waiting to be filled by what was basically my mother's meatballs, but with a little rice mixed in to make it stuffed-peppery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd never made stuffed peppers before, but I decided to give it a go this week. What I find appealing about stuffed peppers is that, basically, one can stuff them with whatever you want. As long as it's edible, I mean. I take that back. Stuff them with whatever the hell you feel like stuffing them with. I would hate to be accused of stifling anyone's creativity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mexicans have probably been stuffing peppers ever since they began cultivating them some 6,000 years ago. When they were brought to Europe from the New World, the Italians, Greeks, Hungarians and Spanish took a liking to them. When they made their way back to the Americas (yes, they were here the whole time, I know), Southerners took to stuffing them, too. Meat, rice, bulgar wheat, cheese-- you name it-- has made it's way into the sweet pepper with more or less successful results.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I chose a somewhat Greek approach to stuffing a pepper. Perhaps stating that I used typically Greek ingredients, for the most part, might avoid unnecessary giggling. I just thought my particular attack was tasty. Remember, there is no right and there is no wrong. At least, not that I am willing to get into this morning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stuffed Peppers\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ingredients\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 red bell peppers (or whatever color most pleases you and your budget)\u003cbr>1 pound ground lamb\u003cbr>1 yellow onion, finely chopped\u003cbr>4 cloves of garlic, finely chopped\u003cbr>1 zucchini, diced fairly small\u003cbr>3 tablespoons of olive oil\u003cbr>1/2 cup cooked white rice, cooled\u003cbr>1 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>a rather large amount of black pepper\u003cbr>1 teaspoon ground nutmeg\u003cbr>1 teaspoon gound allspice\u003cbr>1 large egg\u003cbr>1/4 cup feta or goat cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparation: \u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Pre-heat oven to 375 F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Saute (or sweat, in this case) onion and garlic in one tablespoon of olive oil on medium heat until translucent. Set aside. Turn up the heat and add the second tablespoon of oil and then the ground lamb. Brown, please. Add third tablespoon of oil and then zucchini. Cook until just slightly softened and a tad brighter in color. Toss the onion mixture, lamb and zucchini together.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>I suppose before you've taken on steps one and two you could have washed and sliced the tops of the peppers and, if they aren't behaving as they should and sitting up straight, you might cut their bottoms and forcibly make them do so. Free them of their seeds and ribbing. I choose to blanch the peppers as well, which cuts down on oven time.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add salt, pepper, allspice, nutmeg, egg, cheese and rice to the stuffing mixture, combining well.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fill the empty inner spaces of the peppers with the stuffing and place in a casserole or dutch oven-- something not too shallow. Peppers are fairly social creatures, so keep them close together, but do allow them some space-- they need to feel the hot oven air circulate around them. Oh, and add some water or stock to the bottom of the dish to prevent the peppers from burning. At this point, I rub the tops of the peppers with olive oil and salt and place them in a pan to roast along side the peppers themselves. Not necessary, but I don't see why not.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>When the peppers are sufficiently roasted (like, in about 30 minutes), dot the top of the stuffed peppers with more cheese and place under the broiler to brown.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Serve hot.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>My mother, and lots of other people besides her, serve peppers with some sort of tomato sauce. I decided to accompany mine with something a little lighter and sharper. It's almost completely mindless...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Garlic and Mint Yogurt Sauce:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ingredients:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup plain yogurt (Greek is good, but I think too thick for this. Save it for eating with honey)\u003cbr>4 cloves garlic, minced\u003cbr>several leaves of mint, chiffonaded\u003cbr>a pinch pr two of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparation:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix all the above ingredients in a bowl and whisk together. Serve. Or, better to let this sit in the fridge overnight so the flavors can get to know each other better. I hope you took notes on that one.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/peasalad-784823.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/peasalad-784820.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>California produce has slain yet another one of my Hate Foods. There were quite a few groups things I refused to eat as a kid and peas were definitely one of them. I hated the mushy, tasteless, mean little things. If I piled enough butter and salt on them, I could just swallow them down with a big slosh of water but my gag reflex still worked overtime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last weekend, I was picking through the produce at the Sunset Andronico's and my eyes fell on the big smooth pods of English peas. Without thinking too hard about what I would do, I started stuffing them in a plastic bag.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once at home, I perched on a sunny stool in the kitchen and took old-fashioned pleasure in slitting the pods open with my thumbnail and rolling the pale fat peas into a bowl. A few seconds dip in rapidly boiling water and slightly longer in a shocking ice bath and my peas were ready. Firm and mouth-popping, the peas were as smooth as a freshly Botoxed baby's bottom with nary a wrinkle to be found. But what to do with them?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I pulled out the butter and salt and stared at them. Ugh, I couldn't go that route. While I love the simplicity of salt and butter when oven-roasting or steaming \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.grubreport.com/blueplatespecial/corn2.html\">summer corn\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, in order to fully expunge my childhood memories, I definitely needed something completely different. Since the peas were already cold, I opted for a salad. Peppery watercress, slightly bitter endive, and flaked ivory shavings of salty Pecorino Romano in a light lemony vinaigrette all brought out the sweetness of the spring pearls.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>English Pea Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serves 4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon Champagne vinegar\u003cbr>\n4-5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\nSalt, to taste\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground black pepper, to taste\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 cups shelled English peas\u003cbr>\nThree heads of Belgian endive, bruised leaves removed\u003cbr>\n2 bunches small-leaved watercress, about 1 lb\u003cbr>\nPecorino Romano, or an aged sheep's cheese of your choice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Whisk the lemon juice, vinegar, and olive oil together. Add salt and pepper and taste. Adjust seasonings to your preference. Set vinaigrette aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Fill a large, heavy-bottomed pot with cold water and bring to a rolling boil. Add the shelled peas and cook for about 45 seconds. Plunge the cooked peas in an ice bath to stop the cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Slice the endive at an angle and put the slivers in a large bowl. Add the watercress and drained peas and toss with the vinaigrette until glistening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Serve the salad on individual plates and shave the Pecorino Romano over each portion. Use as much cheese as you like.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": "California produce has slain yet another one of my Hate Foods. There were quite a few groups things I refused to eat as a kid and peas were definitely one of them. I hated the mushy, tasteless, mean little things. If I piled enough butter and salt on them, I could just swallow them down",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/peasalad-784823.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/peasalad-784820.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>California produce has slain yet another one of my Hate Foods. There were quite a few groups things I refused to eat as a kid and peas were definitely one of them. I hated the mushy, tasteless, mean little things. If I piled enough butter and salt on them, I could just swallow them down with a big slosh of water but my gag reflex still worked overtime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last weekend, I was picking through the produce at the Sunset Andronico's and my eyes fell on the big smooth pods of English peas. Without thinking too hard about what I would do, I started stuffing them in a plastic bag.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once at home, I perched on a sunny stool in the kitchen and took old-fashioned pleasure in slitting the pods open with my thumbnail and rolling the pale fat peas into a bowl. A few seconds dip in rapidly boiling water and slightly longer in a shocking ice bath and my peas were ready. Firm and mouth-popping, the peas were as smooth as a freshly Botoxed baby's bottom with nary a wrinkle to be found. But what to do with them?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I pulled out the butter and salt and stared at them. Ugh, I couldn't go that route. While I love the simplicity of salt and butter when oven-roasting or steaming \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.grubreport.com/blueplatespecial/corn2.html\">summer corn\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, in order to fully expunge my childhood memories, I definitely needed something completely different. Since the peas were already cold, I opted for a salad. Peppery watercress, slightly bitter endive, and flaked ivory shavings of salty Pecorino Romano in a light lemony vinaigrette all brought out the sweetness of the spring pearls.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>English Pea Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serves 4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon Champagne vinegar\u003cbr>\n4-5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\nSalt, to taste\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground black pepper, to taste\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 cups shelled English peas\u003cbr>\nThree heads of Belgian endive, bruised leaves removed\u003cbr>\n2 bunches small-leaved watercress, about 1 lb\u003cbr>\nPecorino Romano, or an aged sheep's cheese of your choice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Whisk the lemon juice, vinegar, and olive oil together. Add salt and pepper and taste. Adjust seasonings to your preference. Set vinaigrette aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Fill a large, heavy-bottomed pot with cold water and bring to a rolling boil. Add the shelled peas and cook for about 45 seconds. Plunge the cooked peas in an ice bath to stop the cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Slice the endive at an angle and put the slivers in a large bowl. Add the watercress and drained peas and toss with the vinaigrette until glistening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Serve the salad on individual plates and shave the Pecorino Romano over each portion. Use as much cheese as you like.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Against the Grain",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/requinoa-755125.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/requinoa-755117.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm a bit of a skeptic when it comes to whole grains. You know the ones I mean: Amaranth. Millet. Quinoa. Teff. They sound faintly exotic, like semiprecious jewels or new colors from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.potterybarn.com/content/benmoorec/stylehouse.cfm?words=paint\">Pottery Barn paint collection\u003c/a>. But they also have a hippie-dippy air about them, and I like my food full of flavor (and my underarms shaved, thank-you-very-much).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With superstar bloggers like \u003ca href=\"http://101cookbooks.com/\">Heidi Swanson\u003c/a> constantly singing their praises, though, lately I've started to waver. But something held me back. And then I went out and ate nine desserts in one sitting -- a feast so ridiculous even Dionysus himself would have surely chided me for it -- and I began looking about for ways to eat healthier. As luck would have it, \u003ca href=\"http://www.harpercollins.com/books/9780061119880/The_WheatFree_Cook/index.aspx\">The Wheat-Free Cook\u003c/a> (William Morrow, $24.95) arrived in my mailbox during this moment of curiosity, and the first recipe to catch my eye was quinoa salad with cucumber, tomato, and mint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/WFC1-782519.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/WFC1-782517.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since that sounded like a dish for a warm, sunny day, I decided to call up the book's author while I waited for such a day to appear on San Francisco's foggy horizon. Jacqueline Mallorca is a local food writer who started her career by writing the first ever \u003ca href=\"http://www.williams-sonoma.com/?flash=on&cm_ref=http%3A//www.google.com/search%3Fq%3Dwilliams+sonoma%26ie%3Dutf-8%26oe%3Dutf-8%26aq%3Dt%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial%26client%3Dfirefox-a\">Williams-Sonoma\u003c/a> catalog and later became an editorial assistant to James Beard and a San Francisco Chronicle food columnist. She now has more than 11 cookbooks to her name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A little over ten years ago, Jackie was diagnosed with \u003ca href=\"http://www.celiac.org/\">celiac disease\u003c/a>. For Jackie and 1.5 million Americans, that means gluten, a protein found in wheat, barley, and rye, makes them sick. Like most newly diagnosed sufferers, she was taken aback by all the foods she could suddenly no longer eat -- bread, pancakes, crackers, cereal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Being a cook, a foodie from way back, I laughed heartily at the diet sheet I was handed, and said, 'Oh no, I can do better than that.' I started reinventing the way that I cook,\" Jackie told me over the phone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That meant shifting to nut flours for cakes and cookies, rice flour for things like pasta or bread, and the aforementioned hippie-dippy grains I've been suspiciously eyeing for years. After spending a decade cooking gluten-free, she collected some of her favorite recipes in The Wheat-Free Cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though I can eat gluten, flipping through those recipes made my tummy rumble. They looked simple and sounded delicious: onion-Gruyere tart, Asian stick noodles with pork and asparagus, cornmeal and cheese shortbread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jackie says that her restrictions have actually made her cooking better. \"A lot of the time, particularly if I'm making cookies and little petit fours and cakes with nut flours, they turn out much more delicious than the original versions because you're using such fine ingredients. Cakes made with ground almonds and the best quality [cocoa] powder and three or four eggs taste wonderful because they taste of the almonds and the good stuff,\" she reported.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wanted to know more about all the funky grains that peppered the book, so I asked her what she couldn't do without, even if she could eat gluten again. \"I'd never stop using quinoa because it cooks up very fluffy, and it makes the best grain salad because it doesn't go hard like rice does when it's chilled. I wouldn't give up on millet because it makes a really terrific pilaf. I wouldn't give up on teff flour because it makes the best brownies under the sun,\" she readily answered. \"I find it's like cooking in color instead of cooking in black and white.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sheer poetry of her answer inspired me to dig deeper into the cookbook. I went out and bought white rice flour to use for dredging sautéed foods in based on Jackie's observation that it's less gummy than flour. I dog-eared a recipe for peanut butter-chocolate chip cookies and another one for chocolate-hazelnut truffle cake (healthy eating having been long forgotten at this point). And yes, I bought some red quinoa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A sunny day finally appeared, and I set to making the salad. I tossed in a bit of roasted chicken to make it a meal, subbed some spicy cayenne pepper for fresh ground black, and let it sit in the fridge so the flavors could introduce themselves. \"Hiya,\" I imagined the cucumber saying. \"How fresh!\" would be the radish's sharp reply. But the quinoa just sat there, still and gentle, subtly flavorful, and down-to-earth. Yum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/quinoa-730007.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/quinoa-729992.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Quinoa Salad with Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint\u003cbr>\nServes 4-6\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipe adapted and reprinted with permission from \u003ca href=\"http://www.harpercollins.com/books/9780061119880/The_WheatFree_Cook/index.aspx\">The Wheat-Free Cook\u003c/a> by Jacqueline Mallorca, William Morrow, $24.95.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups gluten-free vegetable broth\u003cbr>\n1 cup red or yellow quinoa, rinsed and drained\u003cbr>\n1 cup shredded roasted chicken\u003cbr>\n1 cucumber (about 8 ounces), peeled, seeded, and chopped\u003cbr>\n2 large, ripe tomatoes, finely chopped, preferably heirloom\u003cbr>\n4 green onions, thinly sliced\u003cbr>\n8 radishes, finely chopped\u003cbr>\n¼ cup chopped mint\u003cbr>\n½ cup chopped parsley\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\nFine sea salt and cayenne pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Bring the broth to a boil over high heat. Add the quinoa, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the grains are tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes. The grains will turn transparent, and the white germ ring will show. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Add the chicken, cucumber, tomatoes, green onions, radishes, mint, and parsley. Whisk together the olive oil and vinegar, and season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper. Pour over the quinoa and vegetables, and mix gently but thoroughly. Taste for seasoning and adjust as needed. Serve at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "Against the Grain | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/requinoa-755125.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/requinoa-755117.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm a bit of a skeptic when it comes to whole grains. You know the ones I mean: Amaranth. Millet. Quinoa. Teff. They sound faintly exotic, like semiprecious jewels or new colors from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.potterybarn.com/content/benmoorec/stylehouse.cfm?words=paint\">Pottery Barn paint collection\u003c/a>. But they also have a hippie-dippy air about them, and I like my food full of flavor (and my underarms shaved, thank-you-very-much).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With superstar bloggers like \u003ca href=\"http://101cookbooks.com/\">Heidi Swanson\u003c/a> constantly singing their praises, though, lately I've started to waver. But something held me back. And then I went out and ate nine desserts in one sitting -- a feast so ridiculous even Dionysus himself would have surely chided me for it -- and I began looking about for ways to eat healthier. As luck would have it, \u003ca href=\"http://www.harpercollins.com/books/9780061119880/The_WheatFree_Cook/index.aspx\">The Wheat-Free Cook\u003c/a> (William Morrow, $24.95) arrived in my mailbox during this moment of curiosity, and the first recipe to catch my eye was quinoa salad with cucumber, tomato, and mint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/WFC1-782519.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/WFC1-782517.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since that sounded like a dish for a warm, sunny day, I decided to call up the book's author while I waited for such a day to appear on San Francisco's foggy horizon. Jacqueline Mallorca is a local food writer who started her career by writing the first ever \u003ca href=\"http://www.williams-sonoma.com/?flash=on&cm_ref=http%3A//www.google.com/search%3Fq%3Dwilliams+sonoma%26ie%3Dutf-8%26oe%3Dutf-8%26aq%3Dt%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial%26client%3Dfirefox-a\">Williams-Sonoma\u003c/a> catalog and later became an editorial assistant to James Beard and a San Francisco Chronicle food columnist. She now has more than 11 cookbooks to her name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A little over ten years ago, Jackie was diagnosed with \u003ca href=\"http://www.celiac.org/\">celiac disease\u003c/a>. For Jackie and 1.5 million Americans, that means gluten, a protein found in wheat, barley, and rye, makes them sick. Like most newly diagnosed sufferers, she was taken aback by all the foods she could suddenly no longer eat -- bread, pancakes, crackers, cereal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Being a cook, a foodie from way back, I laughed heartily at the diet sheet I was handed, and said, 'Oh no, I can do better than that.' I started reinventing the way that I cook,\" Jackie told me over the phone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That meant shifting to nut flours for cakes and cookies, rice flour for things like pasta or bread, and the aforementioned hippie-dippy grains I've been suspiciously eyeing for years. After spending a decade cooking gluten-free, she collected some of her favorite recipes in The Wheat-Free Cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though I can eat gluten, flipping through those recipes made my tummy rumble. They looked simple and sounded delicious: onion-Gruyere tart, Asian stick noodles with pork and asparagus, cornmeal and cheese shortbread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jackie says that her restrictions have actually made her cooking better. \"A lot of the time, particularly if I'm making cookies and little petit fours and cakes with nut flours, they turn out much more delicious than the original versions because you're using such fine ingredients. Cakes made with ground almonds and the best quality [cocoa] powder and three or four eggs taste wonderful because they taste of the almonds and the good stuff,\" she reported.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wanted to know more about all the funky grains that peppered the book, so I asked her what she couldn't do without, even if she could eat gluten again. \"I'd never stop using quinoa because it cooks up very fluffy, and it makes the best grain salad because it doesn't go hard like rice does when it's chilled. I wouldn't give up on millet because it makes a really terrific pilaf. I wouldn't give up on teff flour because it makes the best brownies under the sun,\" she readily answered. \"I find it's like cooking in color instead of cooking in black and white.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sheer poetry of her answer inspired me to dig deeper into the cookbook. I went out and bought white rice flour to use for dredging sautéed foods in based on Jackie's observation that it's less gummy than flour. I dog-eared a recipe for peanut butter-chocolate chip cookies and another one for chocolate-hazelnut truffle cake (healthy eating having been long forgotten at this point). And yes, I bought some red quinoa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A sunny day finally appeared, and I set to making the salad. I tossed in a bit of roasted chicken to make it a meal, subbed some spicy cayenne pepper for fresh ground black, and let it sit in the fridge so the flavors could introduce themselves. \"Hiya,\" I imagined the cucumber saying. \"How fresh!\" would be the radish's sharp reply. But the quinoa just sat there, still and gentle, subtly flavorful, and down-to-earth. Yum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/quinoa-730007.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/quinoa-729992.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Quinoa Salad with Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint\u003cbr>\nServes 4-6\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipe adapted and reprinted with permission from \u003ca href=\"http://www.harpercollins.com/books/9780061119880/The_WheatFree_Cook/index.aspx\">The Wheat-Free Cook\u003c/a> by Jacqueline Mallorca, William Morrow, $24.95.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups gluten-free vegetable broth\u003cbr>\n1 cup red or yellow quinoa, rinsed and drained\u003cbr>\n1 cup shredded roasted chicken\u003cbr>\n1 cucumber (about 8 ounces), peeled, seeded, and chopped\u003cbr>\n2 large, ripe tomatoes, finely chopped, preferably heirloom\u003cbr>\n4 green onions, thinly sliced\u003cbr>\n8 radishes, finely chopped\u003cbr>\n¼ cup chopped mint\u003cbr>\n½ cup chopped parsley\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\nFine sea salt and cayenne pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Bring the broth to a boil over high heat. Add the quinoa, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the grains are tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes. The grains will turn transparent, and the white germ ring will show. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Add the chicken, cucumber, tomatoes, green onions, radishes, mint, and parsley. Whisk together the olive oil and vinegar, and season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper. Pour over the quinoa and vegetables, and mix gently but thoroughly. Taste for seasoning and adjust as needed. Serve at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Paczki: Polish Jelly Donuts",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the first cookbooks in my collection is also one of my favorites: \u003ci>Polish Heritage Cookery\u003c/i>. I came across this heavy tome at a quirky bookstore that once lived on Polk Street, before a fire ravaged the floors above and water rained down upon its randomly, precariously stacked books. The store's hours were irregular, and those who paid in cash received half off new cover prices. While it was the absolute last place a claustrophobe would want to spend time, Books and Co. was heaven for lovers of books about art, history and food. It epitomized the browsing experience at its most enjoyable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0781805589/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>\u003ci>Polish Heritage Cookery\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> has the voice I miss in old recipes, where strong opinions and sometimes random advice were sprinkled in among the teaspoons and tablespoons. The authors, Robert and Maria Strybel, gathered an impressive 2,200 recipes covering a wide expanse from vanilla sugar to air-dried Pomeranian pork sausage. While illustrated with helpful drawings for the more complicated recipes, the book is free of photographs. Instead, the recipes unroll in story-like paragraphs and Polish names add poetry to every title. Old World classics and their multiple variations reveal Lithuanian, Italian, French, Jewish, Bohemian and Bavarian influences and trace a fascinating culinary history of Eastern European food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whey Soup with Rice (or the sweeter Whey Soup with Raisins), Roast Hare in Sour Cream Polonaise, Carp Baked with Apples, Carpathian Mountain Cake, Cherry Butter, and pages upon pages of pickle recipes include hints that only a grandmother might pass along. Adding skins from black bread helps \"hurry-up\" the curing of pickles. A glass of cold sour milk is recommended for the morning after \"an overabundance of partying.\" At the end of a baked potato recipe, the authors note that adding a piece of kielbasa and a tomato would make a balanced meal, while on the next page, hearty Potato and Salt Pork Sausage is not recommended for \"those with delicate stomachs.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most stained pages in my own copy of the Strybels' cookbook span the pastry and preserve chapters. For the last two years, I've been hosting Doughnuts of the World brunches. A loose definition of doughnut allows me to experiment with angel wings, churros and beignets. Polish jam-filled paczki, however, would please even the most hard-core of the purists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Below are excerpts from the Strybels' detailed description for making small paczki.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>Homemade raspberry jam stands in for the rose-hip jelly, cherry preserves or powidla (thick plum butter) suggested in the original recipe.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Although these luscious doughnuts are available year-round at Polish pastry shops, they reign supreme on Thusty Czwartek (Fat Tuesday), which begins the final fling of the Pre-Lenten karnawal of zapusty. More paczki are sold that day than at any other time of the year. You can try your hand at making your own by proceeding according to this recipe. Dissolve 2 cakes crushed yeast in 1 c. lukewarm milk, sift in 1 c. flour, add 1 T. sugar, mix, cover, and let stand in a warm place to rise. Beat 8 egg yolks with 2/3 c. powdered sugar and 2 T. vanilla sugar until fluffy. Sift 2 1/2 c. flour into bowl, add sponge, egg mixture, and 2 T. grain alcohol or 3 T. rum, and knead well until dough is smooth and glossy. Gradually add 1 stick melted lukewarm butter and continue kneading until dough no longer clings to hands and bowl and air blisters appear. Cover with cloth and let rise in warm place until doubled. Punch down dough and let rise again. Transfer dough to floured board, sprinkle top with flour, and roll out about 1/2 inch thick. With glass or biscuit cutter, cut into rounds. Arrange on floured board.\" [NB: I substituted 1 1/2 packets of dry yeast for the yeast cakes.]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>The soft dough feels lovely. Still, some of my guests decide flat, American-style jelly doughnuts are easier to form and fry.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Place a small spoonful of fruit filling (rose-hip preserves, cherry preserves, powidla, or other thick jam) off center on each round. Raise edges of dough and pinch together over filling, then roll between palms snowball fashion to form balls. Let rise in warm place until doubled.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>The Strybel's write that Polish pastries like paczki \"may be fried in vegetable shortening or oil instead of lard, but they won't be as tasty. The choice is yours.\"\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Heat 1 1/2-2 lbs. lard in deep pan so paczki can float freely during frying. It is hot enough when a small piece of dough dropped into the hot fat immediately floats up. Fry packzi under cover without crowding several min. until nicely browned on bottom, then turn over and fry uncovered on the other side another 3 min. or so. If fat begins to burn, add several slices of peeled raw potato which will both lower the temp. and absorb any burnt flavor. Transfer fried paczki to absorbent paper and set aside to cool, When cool, dust generously with powdered sugar, glaze or icing.\"\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the first cookbooks in my collection is also one of my favorites: \u003ci>Polish Heritage Cookery\u003c/i>. I came across this heavy tome at a quirky bookstore that once lived on Polk Street, before a fire ravaged the floors above and water rained down upon its randomly, precariously stacked books. The store's hours were irregular, and those who paid in cash received half off new cover prices. While it was the absolute last place a claustrophobe would want to spend time, Books and Co. was heaven for lovers of books about art, history and food. It epitomized the browsing experience at its most enjoyable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0781805589/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>\u003ci>Polish Heritage Cookery\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> has the voice I miss in old recipes, where strong opinions and sometimes random advice were sprinkled in among the teaspoons and tablespoons. The authors, Robert and Maria Strybel, gathered an impressive 2,200 recipes covering a wide expanse from vanilla sugar to air-dried Pomeranian pork sausage. While illustrated with helpful drawings for the more complicated recipes, the book is free of photographs. Instead, the recipes unroll in story-like paragraphs and Polish names add poetry to every title. Old World classics and their multiple variations reveal Lithuanian, Italian, French, Jewish, Bohemian and Bavarian influences and trace a fascinating culinary history of Eastern European food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whey Soup with Rice (or the sweeter Whey Soup with Raisins), Roast Hare in Sour Cream Polonaise, Carp Baked with Apples, Carpathian Mountain Cake, Cherry Butter, and pages upon pages of pickle recipes include hints that only a grandmother might pass along. Adding skins from black bread helps \"hurry-up\" the curing of pickles. A glass of cold sour milk is recommended for the morning after \"an overabundance of partying.\" At the end of a baked potato recipe, the authors note that adding a piece of kielbasa and a tomato would make a balanced meal, while on the next page, hearty Potato and Salt Pork Sausage is not recommended for \"those with delicate stomachs.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most stained pages in my own copy of the Strybels' cookbook span the pastry and preserve chapters. For the last two years, I've been hosting Doughnuts of the World brunches. A loose definition of doughnut allows me to experiment with angel wings, churros and beignets. Polish jam-filled paczki, however, would please even the most hard-core of the purists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Below are excerpts from the Strybels' detailed description for making small paczki.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>Homemade raspberry jam stands in for the rose-hip jelly, cherry preserves or powidla (thick plum butter) suggested in the original recipe.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Although these luscious doughnuts are available year-round at Polish pastry shops, they reign supreme on Thusty Czwartek (Fat Tuesday), which begins the final fling of the Pre-Lenten karnawal of zapusty. More paczki are sold that day than at any other time of the year. You can try your hand at making your own by proceeding according to this recipe. Dissolve 2 cakes crushed yeast in 1 c. lukewarm milk, sift in 1 c. flour, add 1 T. sugar, mix, cover, and let stand in a warm place to rise. Beat 8 egg yolks with 2/3 c. powdered sugar and 2 T. vanilla sugar until fluffy. Sift 2 1/2 c. flour into bowl, add sponge, egg mixture, and 2 T. grain alcohol or 3 T. rum, and knead well until dough is smooth and glossy. Gradually add 1 stick melted lukewarm butter and continue kneading until dough no longer clings to hands and bowl and air blisters appear. Cover with cloth and let rise in warm place until doubled. Punch down dough and let rise again. Transfer dough to floured board, sprinkle top with flour, and roll out about 1/2 inch thick. With glass or biscuit cutter, cut into rounds. Arrange on floured board.\" [NB: I substituted 1 1/2 packets of dry yeast for the yeast cakes.]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>The soft dough feels lovely. Still, some of my guests decide flat, American-style jelly doughnuts are easier to form and fry.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Place a small spoonful of fruit filling (rose-hip preserves, cherry preserves, powidla, or other thick jam) off center on each round. Raise edges of dough and pinch together over filling, then roll between palms snowball fashion to form balls. Let rise in warm place until doubled.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>The Strybel's write that Polish pastries like paczki \"may be fried in vegetable shortening or oil instead of lard, but they won't be as tasty. The choice is yours.\"\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Heat 1 1/2-2 lbs. lard in deep pan so paczki can float freely during frying. It is hot enough when a small piece of dough dropped into the hot fat immediately floats up. Fry packzi under cover without crowding several min. until nicely browned on bottom, then turn over and fry uncovered on the other side another 3 min. or so. If fat begins to burn, add several slices of peeled raw potato which will both lower the temp. and absorb any burnt flavor. Transfer fried paczki to absorbent paper and set aside to cool, When cool, dust generously with powdered sugar, glaze or icing.\"\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Strawberries & Crepes",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/strawberries-742255.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/strawberries-742246.png\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nThis year fresh strawberries are positively delicious. If you haven't eaten any yet, what are you waiting for? Go get some now!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Strawberries are one of the fruits you should defintely buy organic. According to some reports, strawberries in California are treated with more than 300 pounds of pesticides an acre. As a comparison, conventional farming currently uses about 25 pounds of pesticides an acre. Strawberries have been found to have the highest level of hormone-affecting pesticides, including benomyl, vinclozolin, and endosulfan. Not surprisingly there tends to be more chemical residue in strawberries than in most fruits and vegetables. Chemicals are even used to enhance the color of strawberries as well as to preserve them. One day \"conventionally grown\" will be organic, but until then, make sure you are choosing wisely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite thing to do with strawberries is to slice them, sprinkle them with sugar and to serve them with crepes and plain yogurt. It makes a terrific breakfast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's my recipe for crepes:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Basic Crepes\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs (or 1/2 cup of egg replacement product)\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon sugar\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup flour\u003cbr>\n1 pinch salt\u003cbr>\n1 cup milk (any kind is fine including nonfat)\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Throw all the ingredients into the blender and blend away! The batter only needs to rest 15 minutes or so (to reduce bubbles) then heat a non-stick crepe pan over medium heat and spray lightly with cooking oil. Ladle approximately two tablespoons of the batter into the pan and tilt the pan to cover the bottom with a thin, even coating. Cook the crepe until small bubbles form on the surface and it is barely firm, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Flip and repeat until crepe is done.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/strawberries-742255.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/strawberries-742246.png\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nThis year fresh strawberries are positively delicious. If you haven't eaten any yet, what are you waiting for? Go get some now!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Strawberries are one of the fruits you should defintely buy organic. According to some reports, strawberries in California are treated with more than 300 pounds of pesticides an acre. As a comparison, conventional farming currently uses about 25 pounds of pesticides an acre. Strawberries have been found to have the highest level of hormone-affecting pesticides, including benomyl, vinclozolin, and endosulfan. Not surprisingly there tends to be more chemical residue in strawberries than in most fruits and vegetables. Chemicals are even used to enhance the color of strawberries as well as to preserve them. One day \"conventionally grown\" will be organic, but until then, make sure you are choosing wisely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite thing to do with strawberries is to slice them, sprinkle them with sugar and to serve them with crepes and plain yogurt. It makes a terrific breakfast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's my recipe for crepes:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Basic Crepes\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs (or 1/2 cup of egg replacement product)\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon sugar\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup flour\u003cbr>\n1 pinch salt\u003cbr>\n1 cup milk (any kind is fine including nonfat)\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Throw all the ingredients into the blender and blend away! The batter only needs to rest 15 minutes or so (to reduce bubbles) then heat a non-stick crepe pan over medium heat and spray lightly with cooking oil. Ladle approximately two tablespoons of the batter into the pan and tilt the pan to cover the bottom with a thin, even coating. Cook the crepe until small bubbles form on the surface and it is barely firm, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Flip and repeat until crepe is done.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>As we draw smaller and smaller circles around our food community, we often forget the power of recipes to connect us to each other. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>Nancy's \"Benz Cake\" recipes in her baker's shorthand.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipes in the personal sense. I'm not talking about the results of a keyword search or a formula in that latest best-selling cookbook, not the pasta-of-the-month at the back of a magazine or the marketing copy on the back of a box. Along with vegetables grown by farmers with real names and faces, a local food system includes dishes with memories of people we actually know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's difficult, I know. Epicurious is a bookmark in my browser, and one of my favorite pastimes is decorating cookbooks with little sticky notes. I can't argue against the lure of convenience, the promise of infallibility or the excitement of the exotic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like with many lessons in life, however, it took a hard loss to remind me of what's important. I took for granted personal recipes until that fateful day when I couldn't find the torn, black pocket folder that had followed me from home to home. In it were recipes collected from years of Christmas cookie exchanges, letters from my mom transcribing dishes we ate together in Vietnam, my college roommate's family's tortillas, how to ferment injera from my DC neighbor, my babysitter's microwave chile. Notes to myself, notes to share with others. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>Recipe cards sent -- along with said cake and chocolate sauce -- to celebrate a long-distance birthday.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You don't have to spend all your days in the kitchen to value recipes. We need kitchen messengers as much as we need cooks. The next time you hear yourself saying, \"This is soooo good!\" ask for the recipe. Then pass it along, often and with love.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's Mother's Day. Ask the favorite mother in your life (yes, it's not always our own...) for her story of a dish, any dish. It could be a lifeline from the war ration years or a treasure enjoyed only once a year or the soup that gets her from Monday over Wednesday to Friday. Get the recipe and add it to your stash. Then someday soon, give it away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>Notes on the back of a napkin, the curious cook's antidote to NDAs.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>As we draw smaller and smaller circles around our food community, we often forget the power of recipes to connect us to each other. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>Nancy's \"Benz Cake\" recipes in her baker's shorthand.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipes in the personal sense. I'm not talking about the results of a keyword search or a formula in that latest best-selling cookbook, not the pasta-of-the-month at the back of a magazine or the marketing copy on the back of a box. Along with vegetables grown by farmers with real names and faces, a local food system includes dishes with memories of people we actually know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's difficult, I know. Epicurious is a bookmark in my browser, and one of my favorite pastimes is decorating cookbooks with little sticky notes. I can't argue against the lure of convenience, the promise of infallibility or the excitement of the exotic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like with many lessons in life, however, it took a hard loss to remind me of what's important. I took for granted personal recipes until that fateful day when I couldn't find the torn, black pocket folder that had followed me from home to home. In it were recipes collected from years of Christmas cookie exchanges, letters from my mom transcribing dishes we ate together in Vietnam, my college roommate's family's tortillas, how to ferment injera from my DC neighbor, my babysitter's microwave chile. Notes to myself, notes to share with others. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>Recipe cards sent -- along with said cake and chocolate sauce -- to celebrate a long-distance birthday.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You don't have to spend all your days in the kitchen to value recipes. We need kitchen messengers as much as we need cooks. The next time you hear yourself saying, \"This is soooo good!\" ask for the recipe. Then pass it along, often and with love.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's Mother's Day. Ask the favorite mother in your life (yes, it's not always our own...) for her story of a dish, any dish. It could be a lifeline from the war ration years or a treasure enjoyed only once a year or the soup that gets her from Monday over Wednesday to Friday. Get the recipe and add it to your stash. Then someday soon, give it away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>Notes on the back of a napkin, the curious cook's antidote to NDAs.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Rhubarb-Verbena Sabayon, The Pastry Chef Conference",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0716.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nShuna Lydon & Sherry Yard, both on team #1.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A number of months ago I received an email from an old pastry chef of mine, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/01/shunas-famous-gingerbread.jsp\">Stephen Durfee\u003c/a>, who is now an instructor at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciachef.edu/california/default.asp\">The Culinary Institute of America, Greystone campus in Napa Valley\u003c/a>. He was letting me know I would soon receive an invitation to \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciaprochef.com/bandp_2006/index.html\">The Fifth Annual Worlds of Flavor Baking & Pastry Arts Invitational Retreat\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I thought I would have to respectfully decline, because I am not currently working for a specific establishment. The only name on my chef's jacket is my own. I could not be more grateful that Stephen talked me out of my no.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For 3 1/2 days at the end of April I breathed, thought, emoted, questioned, hypothesized, puzzled over, laughed about, informed, taught, learned, listened, typed, photographed, argued and dreamt pastry and dessert making. {I also \"live-blogged\" it. Find the blow-by-blow \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/pastry_chef_conference_2007/index.html\">by clicking on this link\u003c/a>.}\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0704.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nNotes from the Ideation Session before we went into the kitchen to start creating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0709.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nThe dessert ideas and chef teams that were formed our team's Ideation Session.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From 8:30 am until near 8 pm every day our 70 plus pastry chef and industry representatives' gaggle went from demonstration, to lecture, to lunch, and then at night many of us went out to dine and commiserate. On the last day and a half we were broken up into 5 teams on the basis of various themes and asked to create 4 desserts each.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Team #1, my own, was themed \"Health and Agriculture.\" In the one hour Ideation Session \u003ca href=\"http://www.pastryscoop.com/about_advisory_yard.html\">Sherry Yard\u003c/a> and I threw out a lot of excited ideas, were reigned in, we all picked partners and then walked into the palatial kitchens that make up CIA's kitchen classroom. For the 'fruit dessert' my cohort/teammate was Master Bread Baker \u003ca href=\"http://www.donrockwell.com/index.php?showtopic=346\">Mark Furstenberg\u003c/a> from Washington DC.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea was we would showcase one ingredient, rhubarb. Although rhubarb is not a fruit, it's what's most in season right this minute, and I wanted to show off a special method I have of cooking/treating it, so as to preserve its original integrity, its rhubarb-ness. I like to hot-sugar poach the stalk in such a way as to keep it's crunchy, sour nature. {For a full explanation and recipe, order the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblesanfrancisco.net/ESF/backissues.html\">Spring 2006 issue of Edible San Francisco\u003c/a>, where I went into great detail about osmotic reciprocity and why rhubarb always turns into mushy, stringy baby food when it's introduced to heat.}\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0732.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nVerbena from the Julia Child Gardens at CIA, infused cream and rhubarb juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mark made a slightly savory biscotti of cornmeal and toasted almonds, and besides the rhubarb I wanted something to mediate the textures and flavors of the rhubarb and cornmeal cookie. \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/plated_desserts/index.html\">Plated dessert\u003c/a> making is about balance. Pastry chefs are always thinking about texture, flavor, presentation, sweetness, acid, production, size, plating speed, accessibility, temperature, and the food you ate before eating our courses. The best desserts are the ones not made on autopilot. Don't get me wrong, I like my lemon bars, chocolate eclairs and creme brulee, but I want the pastry chef to be paying attention to all the ingredients to produce the best possible taste sensation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because of rhubarb's high acid content, it likes to be married with fat. I ate at Gary Danko recently and was not surprised to see rhubarb paired with foie gras. Rhubarb likes butter, cream, creme fraiche, and eggs. But the actual flavor of rhubarb is fairly subtle. If I want a diner to really taste it, I try and make pairings that are of complementary, not competitive flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To this end, I made a light and aromatic, herbaceous sabayon. Instead of wine or alcohol, though, I juiced rhubarb raw through an extractor. If you have time for all these steps I can guarantee you an elegant and voluptuous, seasonal dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_41.php\">David Winsberg of Happy Quail Farm\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_41.php\">s\u003c/a> said that he'll have rhubarb through 'til August, but Sabayon is a perfect foil for most fresh fruits, especially berries and stone fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0493.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0495.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>RHUBARB-VERBENA SABAYON\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Large Egg Yolks 4-6 each\u003cbr>\nSugar 1/4 cup\u003cbr>\nHoney 3 Tablespoons + (2 Tablespoons: later)\u003cbr>\nSea or Kosher Salt Pinch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rhubarb Juice 3/4 Cup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Verbena, fresh The leaves from 3 stalks\u003cbr>\nHeavy Cream, not ultra pasteurized 2 Cups (I use Clover Organic.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_54.php\">Knoll Farms\u003c/a> has some of the best Verbena available in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Infuse cream and lightly crushed Verbena leaves and stems in a non-reactive pot by heating with low flame until hot. Shut off heat and let steep for at least one hour, preferably more. Do not allow mixture to boil. You can sprinkle in a little sugar to help with infusion.\u003cbr>\n2. After cream has steeped, turn flame to medium until hot to the touch and strain through a fine meshed sieve. Chill cream in ice batch until very cold. (This step may be done 1-2 days before making Sabayon.)\u003cbr>\n3. Combine first four ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer. Whisk yolks to break apart before adding sugar and salt.\u003cbr>\n4. Set bowl over a pot of boiling water. Bottom of bowl should not touch water. The steam is what's cooking the Sabayon.\u003cbr>\n5. Whisk thoroughly and rapidly, without pause, and, using your other hand, pour rhubarb juice into yolks a little at a time, letting custard thicken a little before adding more. When all liquid has been added, whisk until mixture holds a visible \"trail\" and has become quite thick.\u003cbr>\n6. Place bowl on stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment and set speed to medium. Add extra 2 Tablespoons of honey now. If it looks like honey spun to attach itself to the side of the bowl, stop mixer and scrape down Sabayon with a spatula to combine.\u003cbr>\n7. Increasing speed incrementally, whisk until custard is light and voluminous.\u003cbr>\n8. Whisk Verbena infused cream until soft peaks form.\u003cbr>\n9. When Sabayon is ready, transfer into a larger bowl.\u003cbr>\n10. Using the most pliable spatula in your kitchen, fold whipped cream into Sabayon in three distinctive additions. Fold intentionally, from the inside of the bowl to the outermost edge. Each stroke counts. If you over mix these two ingredients your Sabayon will deflate to the point of liquidization.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0742.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nRhubarb-Verbena Sabayon with Crunchy Poached Rhubarb, Corn-Almond Biscotti and Marshall Farms Star Thistle Honey. Pastry Chef Authors: Shuna Lydon & Mark Furstenberg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sabayon keeps, refrigerated, for 1 day, but it is best the day it is made.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0716.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nShuna Lydon & Sherry Yard, both on team #1.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A number of months ago I received an email from an old pastry chef of mine, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/01/shunas-famous-gingerbread.jsp\">Stephen Durfee\u003c/a>, who is now an instructor at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciachef.edu/california/default.asp\">The Culinary Institute of America, Greystone campus in Napa Valley\u003c/a>. He was letting me know I would soon receive an invitation to \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciaprochef.com/bandp_2006/index.html\">The Fifth Annual Worlds of Flavor Baking & Pastry Arts Invitational Retreat\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I thought I would have to respectfully decline, because I am not currently working for a specific establishment. The only name on my chef's jacket is my own. I could not be more grateful that Stephen talked me out of my no.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For 3 1/2 days at the end of April I breathed, thought, emoted, questioned, hypothesized, puzzled over, laughed about, informed, taught, learned, listened, typed, photographed, argued and dreamt pastry and dessert making. {I also \"live-blogged\" it. Find the blow-by-blow \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/pastry_chef_conference_2007/index.html\">by clicking on this link\u003c/a>.}\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0704.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nNotes from the Ideation Session before we went into the kitchen to start creating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0709.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nThe dessert ideas and chef teams that were formed our team's Ideation Session.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From 8:30 am until near 8 pm every day our 70 plus pastry chef and industry representatives' gaggle went from demonstration, to lecture, to lunch, and then at night many of us went out to dine and commiserate. On the last day and a half we were broken up into 5 teams on the basis of various themes and asked to create 4 desserts each.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Team #1, my own, was themed \"Health and Agriculture.\" In the one hour Ideation Session \u003ca href=\"http://www.pastryscoop.com/about_advisory_yard.html\">Sherry Yard\u003c/a> and I threw out a lot of excited ideas, were reigned in, we all picked partners and then walked into the palatial kitchens that make up CIA's kitchen classroom. For the 'fruit dessert' my cohort/teammate was Master Bread Baker \u003ca href=\"http://www.donrockwell.com/index.php?showtopic=346\">Mark Furstenberg\u003c/a> from Washington DC.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea was we would showcase one ingredient, rhubarb. Although rhubarb is not a fruit, it's what's most in season right this minute, and I wanted to show off a special method I have of cooking/treating it, so as to preserve its original integrity, its rhubarb-ness. I like to hot-sugar poach the stalk in such a way as to keep it's crunchy, sour nature. {For a full explanation and recipe, order the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblesanfrancisco.net/ESF/backissues.html\">Spring 2006 issue of Edible San Francisco\u003c/a>, where I went into great detail about osmotic reciprocity and why rhubarb always turns into mushy, stringy baby food when it's introduced to heat.}\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0732.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nVerbena from the Julia Child Gardens at CIA, infused cream and rhubarb juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mark made a slightly savory biscotti of cornmeal and toasted almonds, and besides the rhubarb I wanted something to mediate the textures and flavors of the rhubarb and cornmeal cookie. \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/plated_desserts/index.html\">Plated dessert\u003c/a> making is about balance. Pastry chefs are always thinking about texture, flavor, presentation, sweetness, acid, production, size, plating speed, accessibility, temperature, and the food you ate before eating our courses. The best desserts are the ones not made on autopilot. Don't get me wrong, I like my lemon bars, chocolate eclairs and creme brulee, but I want the pastry chef to be paying attention to all the ingredients to produce the best possible taste sensation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because of rhubarb's high acid content, it likes to be married with fat. I ate at Gary Danko recently and was not surprised to see rhubarb paired with foie gras. Rhubarb likes butter, cream, creme fraiche, and eggs. But the actual flavor of rhubarb is fairly subtle. If I want a diner to really taste it, I try and make pairings that are of complementary, not competitive flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To this end, I made a light and aromatic, herbaceous sabayon. Instead of wine or alcohol, though, I juiced rhubarb raw through an extractor. If you have time for all these steps I can guarantee you an elegant and voluptuous, seasonal dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_41.php\">David Winsberg of Happy Quail Farm\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_41.php\">s\u003c/a> said that he'll have rhubarb through 'til August, but Sabayon is a perfect foil for most fresh fruits, especially berries and stone fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0493.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0495.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>RHUBARB-VERBENA SABAYON\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Large Egg Yolks 4-6 each\u003cbr>\nSugar 1/4 cup\u003cbr>\nHoney 3 Tablespoons + (2 Tablespoons: later)\u003cbr>\nSea or Kosher Salt Pinch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rhubarb Juice 3/4 Cup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Verbena, fresh The leaves from 3 stalks\u003cbr>\nHeavy Cream, not ultra pasteurized 2 Cups (I use Clover Organic.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_54.php\">Knoll Farms\u003c/a> has some of the best Verbena available in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Infuse cream and lightly crushed Verbena leaves and stems in a non-reactive pot by heating with low flame until hot. Shut off heat and let steep for at least one hour, preferably more. Do not allow mixture to boil. You can sprinkle in a little sugar to help with infusion.\u003cbr>\n2. After cream has steeped, turn flame to medium until hot to the touch and strain through a fine meshed sieve. Chill cream in ice batch until very cold. (This step may be done 1-2 days before making Sabayon.)\u003cbr>\n3. Combine first four ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer. Whisk yolks to break apart before adding sugar and salt.\u003cbr>\n4. Set bowl over a pot of boiling water. Bottom of bowl should not touch water. The steam is what's cooking the Sabayon.\u003cbr>\n5. Whisk thoroughly and rapidly, without pause, and, using your other hand, pour rhubarb juice into yolks a little at a time, letting custard thicken a little before adding more. When all liquid has been added, whisk until mixture holds a visible \"trail\" and has become quite thick.\u003cbr>\n6. Place bowl on stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment and set speed to medium. Add extra 2 Tablespoons of honey now. If it looks like honey spun to attach itself to the side of the bowl, stop mixer and scrape down Sabayon with a spatula to combine.\u003cbr>\n7. Increasing speed incrementally, whisk until custard is light and voluminous.\u003cbr>\n8. Whisk Verbena infused cream until soft peaks form.\u003cbr>\n9. When Sabayon is ready, transfer into a larger bowl.\u003cbr>\n10. Using the most pliable spatula in your kitchen, fold whipped cream into Sabayon in three distinctive additions. Fold intentionally, from the inside of the bowl to the outermost edge. Each stroke counts. If you over mix these two ingredients your Sabayon will deflate to the point of liquidization.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0742.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nRhubarb-Verbena Sabayon with Crunchy Poached Rhubarb, Corn-Almond Biscotti and Marshall Farms Star Thistle Honey. Pastry Chef Authors: Shuna Lydon & Mark Furstenberg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sabayon keeps, refrigerated, for 1 day, but it is best the day it is made.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Sourdough Tutorial. Local Bloggers Share Recipes, Information & Toast. Part 2",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0224.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Continued from \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/04/sourdough-tutorial-local-bloggers-share.jsp\">Part One on Monday April 16\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In California we have more than our fair share of live yeast in the air. \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sourdough\">Catching it and turning it into \"sourdough starter\" or \"natural starter\" is pretty easy\u003c/a>. All one needs to do is to feed one's starter with cold water and bread flour every week or so. The concept of the 100 years old starter, though, is negligible. But I'm not here to rain on your sourdough starter parade. Although I will mention that sourdough is just that. It was not, originally, a nice thing to say about one's bread. It meant bad. It meant that your bread had gone off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like trifle, sourdough was originally a mistake. Or an exaggeration of a mistake. I have heard more than one Master Bread Baker disparage sourdough bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, for the sake of clarity, sourdough bread and sourdough starter are not the same. It is possible to make bread from live yeast cultures, whether they are from wheat or grapes or some other source, and not have it \"taste sour.\" Although the nomenclature is the same, there's an argument here for saying starter when one means just that, and sourdough starter when one means the starter to make sourdough bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, who's on first?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0213.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All this being said, I had quite a lot of fun and education whilst hanging out with the humble Dylan of \u003ca href=\"http://sourdoughmonkeywrangler.blogspot.com/\">Sourdough Monkey Wrangler\u003c/a>. A student of the live yeast culture, this man has come far in his self-education of all things involving bread flour. And he's neat and clean to boot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is there someone in your community you want to learn from? Maybe pick up a new skill? What stops you from calling them? Do you feel like they need to be paid for their time? Do you have anything to barter?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my profession we have open doors for barter. I can give my time to just about any chef in whose kitchen I want to learn. We call this a \"trail\" or a \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/06/stagiere_manres.html\">stagiere\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In March, Dylan came to \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/02/baking_classes__1.html\">one of my classes\u003c/a>, and afterwards brought me some sourdough inspired gifts. Very lucky for me there was a generous bag of homemade English muffins. I could not have been happier!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love English muffins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0234.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dylan's English muffin recipe is based on one he found at \u003ca href=\"http://bakingbites.com/2005/12/cooking-school-sourdough-english-muffins/#more-286\">Nicole's Baking Bites\u003c/a>. He adapts his to include favorite locally grown and milled whole wheat flour from \u003ca href=\"http://www.fullbellyfarm.com/about.html\">Full Belly Farm\u003c/a>, as well as milk instead of water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Milk is a traditional addition to English muffins, as well as Crumpets, which are basically English muffins, but griddled on only one side. In bread, milk becomes a softener. It feeds the yeast an alternative, tastier sugar, and the butterfat relaxes the crumb for a more pliable mouth feel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0279.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When one bakes bread, a baked good of few ingredients, one must really know what each ingredient does, can do and is doing. Yeast, obviously, helps things rise. But the more you use, the faster bread goes stale. (The same goes for baking powder.) Flour and water combine to bind bread. But inherent in most flours is gluten. Gluten is protein, in its simplest terms, and, once \"activated,\" is the structure builder, the 2X4's of bread doughs. Without gluten, there is no barn to raise. This, \u003ca href=\"http://www.grindstonebakery.com/allproducts.htm\">as we well know in Northern California\u003c/a>, does not mean bread cannot be made without gluten. Tall, light bread, though, cannot be made without gluten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sugar, even the sugar that exists in the starch of the flour, feeds the yeast. Yeast is an animal, albeit a small single-celled one. (Ask the vegans if yeast is an animal they won't eat, and you will get a myriad of answers.) It eats sugar and emits gas (carbon dioxide), creating the bubbles that will, hours later, become the holes, or the nooks & crannies, in your bread. When flour has enough protein in it, the bubbles will keep their shape as they encircle the gas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In bread, everything after yeast, flour, and water is dessert. Fat, in any form, is a softener. I'm not talking Wonder Bread here; I'm talking a palatable mouth feel. Think matzoh compared to challah, or French bread compared to brioche. Most people would rather make bread pudding or French toast with brioche, rather than ciabatta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flavorings are just that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0284.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When working with natural starters one can develop far more flavor in bread. This is a funny sentence if you've not made bread. The concept is that the longer it takes to \"proof\" bread, or make it rise, the better the overall end result will be. Yeast does not like to be rushed. In turn, if you give it all the atmospheric elements it loves: humidity, mild warmth, time, it gives you rewards tenfold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bread tastes best when all you taste is bread. It's why Tartine's bread has such a following, even though it has more restrictions than a reservation at The French Laundry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have never been the type of person to have and keep a natural starter around. Dylan has a worm farm in his kitchen for easy apartment composting. I guerilla compost. Dylan rides his bike, I drive. Dylan feeds his starters on a schedule, I water my plants to keep them looking pretty on my window ledge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in the past weeks I've done some natural starter experiments. The recipes he gave me are a 3-day process. Day one you feed the starter and keep it out on the counter. Use a larger bowl than you need and make sure it's not metal. Day two combine starter with milk and flours. Day three add rest of flour, baking soda, salt and sugar, proof and begin muffin production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0290.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>English muffin production looks like this:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Knead dough a bit. The longer you knead it, the more likely it will hold it's round shape later and rise evenly. Roll dough out, cut, lay on heavily floured (or cornmeal covered) sheet, proof in a warm-ish, moist place (Dylan puts a measuring cup of very hot water in the oven for a more controlled atmosphere), and griddle until done. \"Fork\" to open, toast and eat with the best butter you can get your hands on. Have you eaten \u003ca href=\"http://cloverstornetta.com/show/xmlsite/xml-standard.xml/xsl-generic_list_1_page.xsl/start_id-bbpcajhlodngclgcnihnangmmehkglbabobpmcal/\">Clover's new Organic butter\u003c/a> line yet? It's the bomb. So to speak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wouldn't call this the simplest, most efficient way to get to English muffins, but I will say that all the steps are important and worth it in the end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dylan and I use \u003ca href=\"http://www.kingarthurflour.com/flour/home.html\">King Arthur bread flour\u003c/a>, the blue paper bag. King Arthur has been extremely helpful when it comes to answering my questions about the protein contents and wheat origins of their flours. (Northern wheat is considered \"stronger\" with higher protein than Southern grown wheat that is considered \"softer,\" White Lily being the best example.) \u003ca href=\"http://www.worldpantry.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/giustos/home.d2w/report\">Giusto's\u003c/a> is a local company, but I can't seem to get them on the phone to answer questions to save my life. If you long to buy flour in bulk, which is less expensive than paying for the pretty packaging, head over to Rainbow Grocery in SF or Berkeley Bowl in the East Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most \"sourdough\" people will share a bit of their starter with you if this is the extra hobby you've been waiting for. For all your spare time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0298.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even if you take the time to make a starter which you keep alive for a few months in order to make two or three batches of these glorious homemade English muffins, I can guarantee you at least one happy mouth, your own, if not a messianic following. Not to mention the immeasurable learning one acquires from understanding the basics in the relationship between flour, yeast, air and water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a chance that Dylan and I will co-teach a class on this very subject. \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/classes/index.html\">Keep up with this link\u003c/a> for announcements.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0224.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Continued from \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/04/sourdough-tutorial-local-bloggers-share.jsp\">Part One on Monday April 16\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In California we have more than our fair share of live yeast in the air. \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sourdough\">Catching it and turning it into \"sourdough starter\" or \"natural starter\" is pretty easy\u003c/a>. All one needs to do is to feed one's starter with cold water and bread flour every week or so. The concept of the 100 years old starter, though, is negligible. But I'm not here to rain on your sourdough starter parade. Although I will mention that sourdough is just that. It was not, originally, a nice thing to say about one's bread. It meant bad. It meant that your bread had gone off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like trifle, sourdough was originally a mistake. Or an exaggeration of a mistake. I have heard more than one Master Bread Baker disparage sourdough bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, for the sake of clarity, sourdough bread and sourdough starter are not the same. It is possible to make bread from live yeast cultures, whether they are from wheat or grapes or some other source, and not have it \"taste sour.\" Although the nomenclature is the same, there's an argument here for saying starter when one means just that, and sourdough starter when one means the starter to make sourdough bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, who's on first?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0213.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All this being said, I had quite a lot of fun and education whilst hanging out with the humble Dylan of \u003ca href=\"http://sourdoughmonkeywrangler.blogspot.com/\">Sourdough Monkey Wrangler\u003c/a>. A student of the live yeast culture, this man has come far in his self-education of all things involving bread flour. And he's neat and clean to boot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is there someone in your community you want to learn from? Maybe pick up a new skill? What stops you from calling them? Do you feel like they need to be paid for their time? Do you have anything to barter?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my profession we have open doors for barter. I can give my time to just about any chef in whose kitchen I want to learn. We call this a \"trail\" or a \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/06/stagiere_manres.html\">stagiere\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In March, Dylan came to \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/02/baking_classes__1.html\">one of my classes\u003c/a>, and afterwards brought me some sourdough inspired gifts. Very lucky for me there was a generous bag of homemade English muffins. I could not have been happier!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love English muffins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0234.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dylan's English muffin recipe is based on one he found at \u003ca href=\"http://bakingbites.com/2005/12/cooking-school-sourdough-english-muffins/#more-286\">Nicole's Baking Bites\u003c/a>. He adapts his to include favorite locally grown and milled whole wheat flour from \u003ca href=\"http://www.fullbellyfarm.com/about.html\">Full Belly Farm\u003c/a>, as well as milk instead of water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Milk is a traditional addition to English muffins, as well as Crumpets, which are basically English muffins, but griddled on only one side. In bread, milk becomes a softener. It feeds the yeast an alternative, tastier sugar, and the butterfat relaxes the crumb for a more pliable mouth feel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0279.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When one bakes bread, a baked good of few ingredients, one must really know what each ingredient does, can do and is doing. Yeast, obviously, helps things rise. But the more you use, the faster bread goes stale. (The same goes for baking powder.) Flour and water combine to bind bread. But inherent in most flours is gluten. Gluten is protein, in its simplest terms, and, once \"activated,\" is the structure builder, the 2X4's of bread doughs. Without gluten, there is no barn to raise. This, \u003ca href=\"http://www.grindstonebakery.com/allproducts.htm\">as we well know in Northern California\u003c/a>, does not mean bread cannot be made without gluten. Tall, light bread, though, cannot be made without gluten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sugar, even the sugar that exists in the starch of the flour, feeds the yeast. Yeast is an animal, albeit a small single-celled one. (Ask the vegans if yeast is an animal they won't eat, and you will get a myriad of answers.) It eats sugar and emits gas (carbon dioxide), creating the bubbles that will, hours later, become the holes, or the nooks & crannies, in your bread. When flour has enough protein in it, the bubbles will keep their shape as they encircle the gas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In bread, everything after yeast, flour, and water is dessert. Fat, in any form, is a softener. I'm not talking Wonder Bread here; I'm talking a palatable mouth feel. Think matzoh compared to challah, or French bread compared to brioche. Most people would rather make bread pudding or French toast with brioche, rather than ciabatta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flavorings are just that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0284.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When working with natural starters one can develop far more flavor in bread. This is a funny sentence if you've not made bread. The concept is that the longer it takes to \"proof\" bread, or make it rise, the better the overall end result will be. Yeast does not like to be rushed. In turn, if you give it all the atmospheric elements it loves: humidity, mild warmth, time, it gives you rewards tenfold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bread tastes best when all you taste is bread. It's why Tartine's bread has such a following, even though it has more restrictions than a reservation at The French Laundry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have never been the type of person to have and keep a natural starter around. Dylan has a worm farm in his kitchen for easy apartment composting. I guerilla compost. Dylan rides his bike, I drive. Dylan feeds his starters on a schedule, I water my plants to keep them looking pretty on my window ledge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in the past weeks I've done some natural starter experiments. The recipes he gave me are a 3-day process. Day one you feed the starter and keep it out on the counter. Use a larger bowl than you need and make sure it's not metal. Day two combine starter with milk and flours. Day three add rest of flour, baking soda, salt and sugar, proof and begin muffin production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0290.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>English muffin production looks like this:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Knead dough a bit. The longer you knead it, the more likely it will hold it's round shape later and rise evenly. Roll dough out, cut, lay on heavily floured (or cornmeal covered) sheet, proof in a warm-ish, moist place (Dylan puts a measuring cup of very hot water in the oven for a more controlled atmosphere), and griddle until done. \"Fork\" to open, toast and eat with the best butter you can get your hands on. Have you eaten \u003ca href=\"http://cloverstornetta.com/show/xmlsite/xml-standard.xml/xsl-generic_list_1_page.xsl/start_id-bbpcajhlodngclgcnihnangmmehkglbabobpmcal/\">Clover's new Organic butter\u003c/a> line yet? It's the bomb. So to speak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wouldn't call this the simplest, most efficient way to get to English muffins, but I will say that all the steps are important and worth it in the end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dylan and I use \u003ca href=\"http://www.kingarthurflour.com/flour/home.html\">King Arthur bread flour\u003c/a>, the blue paper bag. King Arthur has been extremely helpful when it comes to answering my questions about the protein contents and wheat origins of their flours. (Northern wheat is considered \"stronger\" with higher protein than Southern grown wheat that is considered \"softer,\" White Lily being the best example.) \u003ca href=\"http://www.worldpantry.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/giustos/home.d2w/report\">Giusto's\u003c/a> is a local company, but I can't seem to get them on the phone to answer questions to save my life. If you long to buy flour in bulk, which is less expensive than paying for the pretty packaging, head over to Rainbow Grocery in SF or Berkeley Bowl in the East Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most \"sourdough\" people will share a bit of their starter with you if this is the extra hobby you've been waiting for. For all your spare time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0298.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even if you take the time to make a starter which you keep alive for a few months in order to make two or three batches of these glorious homemade English muffins, I can guarantee you at least one happy mouth, your own, if not a messianic following. Not to mention the immeasurable learning one acquires from understanding the basics in the relationship between flour, yeast, air and water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a chance that Dylan and I will co-teach a class on this very subject. \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/classes/index.html\">Keep up with this link\u003c/a> for announcements.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>My parents travel light, so when they told me they were waiting at the baggage carousel, I knew some food had made its way from Missouri to California. I've been treated before to freshly dug potatoes, bags of dewy herbs, a catfish with its whiskers still intact, gooseberry jam, homemade beef jerky, and a selection of Kansas City's finest BBQ sauces. As we approached the airport, I wondered what treats we'd be unpacking this time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before boarding that morning's plane, my mom had picked asparagus and packed them into conveniently shaped bags stashed from her newspaper delivery. Earlier in the week, when a freeze recently threatened her food supply, she'd covered her asparagus tips to insulate them from the cold. Some of the stalks were caught in the cover and curled into tight spirals. Though kinda funny-looking, they taste just as good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As anyone who has tried to \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchengardeners.org/2006/03/planting_asparagus.html\">\u003cstrong>grow asparagus\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> knows, they are a labor of love. The scraggly crowns require double-dug trenches and lots of compost-rich soil. Asparagus plants take two to three years to begin producing, and once they start sending up their shoots, they require vigilance from the gardener-cook. Reinvigorated after a winter's rest, the ground pushes out those asparagus stalks with astonishing speed. If you forget to pick your 3-inch baby tips before you head off to work, you just might find 12-inch giants when you return later that afternoon, and perhaps a flowering stalk or two by nightfall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have the space, though, it's definitely worth all the coddling and cutting. I can swear to the truth: freshly harvested asparagus that hasn't traveled further than the distance of your yard (with perhaps a quick plane ride carried by someone you love) are as sweet and tender as the heart of spring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>MY FAVORITE WAY TO EAT THE YEAR'S FIRST ASPARAGUS\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roll the asparagus stalks gently in olive oil, and then sprinkle with a hint of salt and black pepper. Fire up your grill. While it heats, split a few hotdog buns, preferably the lovely egg-enriched ones from \u003ca href=\"http://www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com/acme_bread_company.php\">\u003cstrong>Acme Bread\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. It's fun to set out a selection of your favorite condiments. Some of mine include \u003ca href=\"http://retail.sukhis.com/Catalog/Chutneys/tomato.htm\">\u003cstrong>Sukhi's\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> tomato chutney, \u003ca href=\"http://happygirlkitchen.com/\">\u003cstrong>Happy Girl's\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> pickled peppers, basil pesto, or thin shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once your grill is hot, flash the asparagus just until they show a touch of char at their tips. I like mine with a bit of bite at their stalk ends, but go ahead and cook yours to the point you prefer. With tongs, nestle a few asparagus stalks in each of the hot dog buns. Top with your favorite dressing or condiments, or leave bare and beautiful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoy.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>My parents travel light, so when they told me they were waiting at the baggage carousel, I knew some food had made its way from Missouri to California. I've been treated before to freshly dug potatoes, bags of dewy herbs, a catfish with its whiskers still intact, gooseberry jam, homemade beef jerky, and a selection of Kansas City's finest BBQ sauces. As we approached the airport, I wondered what treats we'd be unpacking this time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before boarding that morning's plane, my mom had picked asparagus and packed them into conveniently shaped bags stashed from her newspaper delivery. Earlier in the week, when a freeze recently threatened her food supply, she'd covered her asparagus tips to insulate them from the cold. Some of the stalks were caught in the cover and curled into tight spirals. Though kinda funny-looking, they taste just as good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As anyone who has tried to \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchengardeners.org/2006/03/planting_asparagus.html\">\u003cstrong>grow asparagus\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> knows, they are a labor of love. The scraggly crowns require double-dug trenches and lots of compost-rich soil. Asparagus plants take two to three years to begin producing, and once they start sending up their shoots, they require vigilance from the gardener-cook. Reinvigorated after a winter's rest, the ground pushes out those asparagus stalks with astonishing speed. If you forget to pick your 3-inch baby tips before you head off to work, you just might find 12-inch giants when you return later that afternoon, and perhaps a flowering stalk or two by nightfall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have the space, though, it's definitely worth all the coddling and cutting. I can swear to the truth: freshly harvested asparagus that hasn't traveled further than the distance of your yard (with perhaps a quick plane ride carried by someone you love) are as sweet and tender as the heart of spring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>MY FAVORITE WAY TO EAT THE YEAR'S FIRST ASPARAGUS\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roll the asparagus stalks gently in olive oil, and then sprinkle with a hint of salt and black pepper. Fire up your grill. While it heats, split a few hotdog buns, preferably the lovely egg-enriched ones from \u003ca href=\"http://www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com/acme_bread_company.php\">\u003cstrong>Acme Bread\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. It's fun to set out a selection of your favorite condiments. Some of mine include \u003ca href=\"http://retail.sukhis.com/Catalog/Chutneys/tomato.htm\">\u003cstrong>Sukhi's\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> tomato chutney, \u003ca href=\"http://happygirlkitchen.com/\">\u003cstrong>Happy Girl's\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> pickled peppers, basil pesto, or thin shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once your grill is hot, flash the asparagus just until they show a touch of char at their tips. I like mine with a bit of bite at their stalk ends, but go ahead and cook yours to the point you prefer. With tongs, nestle a few asparagus stalks in each of the hot dog buns. Top with your favorite dressing or condiments, or leave bare and beautiful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoy.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Let's play a little word association. I say \"recipe\". You say \"card\"? Recipe cards are so retro they might just be poised for a return to fashion. They actually take up a lot less room than cookbooks and are amazingly easy to sort and browse through. I really hadn't thought very much about them until a few boxes passed my way recently. Not all of them were worthwhile but here are three I do recommend. \u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ssp-711808.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ssp-711790.png\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>1. \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0979162904/kqedorg-20\">Sumptuous Small Plates\u003c/a>\u003c/b> \u003cbr>This delectable deck of cards is written by local entrepreneur Bibby Gignilliat the founder and executive chef of \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.partiesthatcook.com/\">Parties That Cook\u003c/a>\u003c/b>. Because she has a background as a cooking teacher and organizer of cooking parties, the recipe instructions are clear and easy to follow. The photographs on these cards are gorgeous and the recipes are very enticing. Rather than pull out a dozen cookbooks you could easily throw a party using a handful of cards. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some typical recipes? Lamb Skewers with Basil Mint Pesto, Crostini of Goat Cheese with Tomato Marmalade, Sweet Potato Galettes with Bacon and Sour Cream. There are even a handful of desserts. I am looking forward to trying Kofte with Melted Feta Center and Garlicky Tahini and the Coconut Butter Cupcakes with Coconut Cream Frosting. Except for one recipe, they all fit neatly on one card. The deck also includes entertaining tips and menu suggestions. There are 30 recipes in all. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/mastershotsf-710905.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/mastershotsf-710891.png\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>2. \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.86recipes.com/\">86 San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Local food maven GraceAnn Walden edited this impressive set of restaurant recipes, and the focus here is on restaurants. All the photographs are of the restaurants, not the recipes themselves. Sometimes restaurant recipes don't translate well to the home kitchen but for the most part these recipes seem workable and a nice taste of what you'd get at the restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurants featured in the pack are all topnotch. Actually it would be interesting to compare them to the infamous Chronicle 100! The restaurants include Acme Chophouse, A16, Bocadillos, Cyrus, Manresa, Incanto, Slanted Door, Yank Sing, etc. Recipes run the gamut from an Apple Galette from Chez Panisse, Duck Gumbo from Town Hall to Butter-Poached Lobster with Vanilla Crepe from Michael Mina. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My only quibbles are the number of recipes that take up two cards and a recipe for macaroni and cheese that calls for \"a box elbow macaroni\". Come again? Is there one standard size box of macaroni I should know about? There are 86 recipe cards, but about \u003cstrike>80\u003c/strike> 86 recipes. All in all it's still a very good pick. This deck not only serves as a great source of recipes but also as a great source of restaurant info. It's a good way to get a sampling of what's cooking in and around San Francisco without adding yet another coffee table sized restaurant cookbook to your collection. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/az-754548.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/az-754523.png\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>3. \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/081185521X/kqedorg-20\">My A-Z Recipe Box\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Developed by a former chef, mother and cooking teacher, this box is a good cooking starter kit for kids. There are 26 recipes which each serve as alphabetized tabs in the recipe box which has ample room for more cards. There is a stack of blank cards in the back for adding recipes and two pages of stickers to decorate the cards. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some recipes require adult supervision but many can easily be made by kids with no help from mom or dad. The recipes are very kid-friendly both in cooking techniques and in style, and include colorful illustrations throughout. Choose from Cheesiest Cheese and Macaroni, Perfect Popovers, Krazy for Kebabs, Gimme More Granola or even more whimsically named dishes like Ants in My Applesauce or Quick-As-A-Wink Quesadillas.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Let's play a little word association. I say \"recipe\". You say \"card\"? Recipe cards are so retro they might just be poised for a return to fashion. They actually take up a lot less room than cookbooks and are amazingly easy to sort and browse through. I really hadn't thought very much about them until a few boxes passed my way recently. Not all of them were worthwhile but here are three I do recommend. \u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ssp-711808.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ssp-711790.png\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>1. \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0979162904/kqedorg-20\">Sumptuous Small Plates\u003c/a>\u003c/b> \u003cbr>This delectable deck of cards is written by local entrepreneur Bibby Gignilliat the founder and executive chef of \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.partiesthatcook.com/\">Parties That Cook\u003c/a>\u003c/b>. Because she has a background as a cooking teacher and organizer of cooking parties, the recipe instructions are clear and easy to follow. The photographs on these cards are gorgeous and the recipes are very enticing. Rather than pull out a dozen cookbooks you could easily throw a party using a handful of cards. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some typical recipes? Lamb Skewers with Basil Mint Pesto, Crostini of Goat Cheese with Tomato Marmalade, Sweet Potato Galettes with Bacon and Sour Cream. There are even a handful of desserts. I am looking forward to trying Kofte with Melted Feta Center and Garlicky Tahini and the Coconut Butter Cupcakes with Coconut Cream Frosting. Except for one recipe, they all fit neatly on one card. The deck also includes entertaining tips and menu suggestions. There are 30 recipes in all. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/mastershotsf-710905.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/mastershotsf-710891.png\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>2. \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.86recipes.com/\">86 San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Local food maven GraceAnn Walden edited this impressive set of restaurant recipes, and the focus here is on restaurants. All the photographs are of the restaurants, not the recipes themselves. Sometimes restaurant recipes don't translate well to the home kitchen but for the most part these recipes seem workable and a nice taste of what you'd get at the restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurants featured in the pack are all topnotch. Actually it would be interesting to compare them to the infamous Chronicle 100! The restaurants include Acme Chophouse, A16, Bocadillos, Cyrus, Manresa, Incanto, Slanted Door, Yank Sing, etc. Recipes run the gamut from an Apple Galette from Chez Panisse, Duck Gumbo from Town Hall to Butter-Poached Lobster with Vanilla Crepe from Michael Mina. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My only quibbles are the number of recipes that take up two cards and a recipe for macaroni and cheese that calls for \"a box elbow macaroni\". Come again? Is there one standard size box of macaroni I should know about? There are 86 recipe cards, but about \u003cstrike>80\u003c/strike> 86 recipes. All in all it's still a very good pick. This deck not only serves as a great source of recipes but also as a great source of restaurant info. It's a good way to get a sampling of what's cooking in and around San Francisco without adding yet another coffee table sized restaurant cookbook to your collection. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"soldout": {
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"info": "Tech Nation is a weekly public radio program, hosted by Dr. Moira Gunn. Founded in 1993, it has grown from a simple interview show to a multi-faceted production, featuring conversations with noted technology and science leaders, and a weekly science and technology-related commentary.",
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"title": "TED Radio Hour",
"info": "The TED Radio Hour is a journey through fascinating ideas, astonishing inventions, fresh approaches to old problems, and new ways to think and create.",
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"tagline": "Local news to keep you rooted",
"info": "Host Devin Katayama walks you through the biggest story of the day with reporters and newsmakers.",
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