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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/91132404@N00/1486870917/in/set-72157601310090666/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/applessmall-742426.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we near Halloween, my seasonal fruit larder is changing. Gone are peaches, plums and nectarines replaced by pomegranates, apples and persimmons. \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_39.php\">Hamada Farms\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_88.php\">Twin Girls Farm\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> supply my pomegranates, and I choose apples from \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_44.php\">Hidden Star Orchards\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_23.php\">Devoto Gardens\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_31.php\">Flatland Flower Farm\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>. As usual, I turn to my fellow bloggers for recipes and creative ideas about this fall fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://elise.com/recipes/\">Elise's Simply Recipes\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> is normally my first stop on the Internet for recipes. \"Try the recipe from Elise's site,\" I often tell friends asking how to make pork this or beef that, \"I trust her recipes and they've always turned out for me.\" I've had the pleasure of tasting Elise's \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.elise.com/recipes/archives/000119apple_butter.php\">apple butter\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, and am looking forward to trying the recipe for myself this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jocelyn blogs about food at her site \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.browniepointsblog.com/\">Brownie Points\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> in Portland. I found a great recipe for \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.browniepointsblog.com/2006/02/18/apple-spice-pancakes/\">Apple Spice Pancakes with Pomegranate Syrup\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> on her site that I'd like to try. Local food blogger \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.gastronomie-sf.com/\">Fatemeh\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> has an interesting recipe for \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.gastronomie-sf.com/2005/03/march_2005_pape.html\">Cocoa-Pomegranate Roast Chicken with Eggplant Stuffing\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> that looks like it would be great to serve to guests. And wrapping up the pomegranate recipes, Stacey at \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.justbraise.com/\">Just Braise\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> has a delicious looking recipe for \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://justbraise.blogspot.com/2006/01/bourbon-pomegranate-molasses-beef.html\">Bourbon-Pomegranate Molasses Beef Short Ribs with Broccoli Rabe\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here on Bay Area Bites, Shuna gave us her \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2005/11/06/persimmons-please/\">persimmon pudding\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> recipe a couple of years ago that looks tempting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other fall fruit recipes from the blogosphere include:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archives/2005/11/persimmon_bread.html\">Persimmon Bread from David Lebovitz\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.101cookbooks.com/archives/001509.html\">Curried Apple Couscous from 101 Cookbooks\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eatlocalchallenge.com/2007/10/going-old-schoo.html\">Cinnamon Vanilla Applesauce from the Eat Local Challenge blog\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2004/03/apple_and_cumin_lentil_salad.php\">Apple and Cumin Lentil Salad from Chocolate & Zucchini\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://orangette.blogspot.com/2006/10/tokaji-for-your-tarte-tatin.html\">Tarte Tatin from Orangette\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.toomanychefs.com/archives/001640.php\">Roast Pork with Braised Fennel, Apples and Onions from Too Many Chefs\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://seattlebonvivant.typepad.com/seattle_bon_vivant/2005/11/quincepomegrana.html\">Quince-Pomegranate Cranberry Compote from Seattle Bon Vivant\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://cooksister.typepad.com/cook_sister/2007/02/pomegranate_pea.html\">Pomegranate, Pear, Fennel and Arugula Salad from Cook Sister\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.deliciousdays.com/archives/2005/12/20/late-night-culinary-entertainment/\">Monkfish on Wild Rocket & Pomegranate Seeds from Delicious Days\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://sourdoughmonkeywrangler.blogspot.com/2007/01/plentiful-persimmons.html\">Fuyu Korma from Sourdough Monkey Wrangler\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://habeasbrulee.com/2007/04/19/persimmon-mint-salsa/\">Persimmon Mint Salsa from Habeas Brulee\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/91132404@N00/1486870917/in/set-72157601310090666/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/applessmall-742426.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we near Halloween, my seasonal fruit larder is changing. Gone are peaches, plums and nectarines replaced by pomegranates, apples and persimmons. \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_39.php\">Hamada Farms\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_88.php\">Twin Girls Farm\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> supply my pomegranates, and I choose apples from \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_44.php\">Hidden Star Orchards\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_23.php\">Devoto Gardens\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_31.php\">Flatland Flower Farm\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>. As usual, I turn to my fellow bloggers for recipes and creative ideas about this fall fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://elise.com/recipes/\">Elise's Simply Recipes\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> is normally my first stop on the Internet for recipes. \"Try the recipe from Elise's site,\" I often tell friends asking how to make pork this or beef that, \"I trust her recipes and they've always turned out for me.\" I've had the pleasure of tasting Elise's \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.elise.com/recipes/archives/000119apple_butter.php\">apple butter\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>, and am looking forward to trying the recipe for myself this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jocelyn blogs about food at her site \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.browniepointsblog.com/\">Brownie Points\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> in Portland. I found a great recipe for \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.browniepointsblog.com/2006/02/18/apple-spice-pancakes/\">Apple Spice Pancakes with Pomegranate Syrup\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> on her site that I'd like to try. Local food blogger \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.gastronomie-sf.com/\">Fatemeh\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> has an interesting recipe for \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.gastronomie-sf.com/2005/03/march_2005_pape.html\">Cocoa-Pomegranate Roast Chicken with Eggplant Stuffing\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> that looks like it would be great to serve to guests. And wrapping up the pomegranate recipes, Stacey at \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.justbraise.com/\">Just Braise\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> has a delicious looking recipe for \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://justbraise.blogspot.com/2006/01/bourbon-pomegranate-molasses-beef.html\">Bourbon-Pomegranate Molasses Beef Short Ribs with Broccoli Rabe\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here on Bay Area Bites, Shuna gave us her \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2005/11/06/persimmons-please/\">persimmon pudding\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> recipe a couple of years ago that looks tempting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other fall fruit recipes from the blogosphere include:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archives/2005/11/persimmon_bread.html\">Persimmon Bread from David Lebovitz\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.101cookbooks.com/archives/001509.html\">Curried Apple Couscous from 101 Cookbooks\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eatlocalchallenge.com/2007/10/going-old-schoo.html\">Cinnamon Vanilla Applesauce from the Eat Local Challenge blog\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2004/03/apple_and_cumin_lentil_salad.php\">Apple and Cumin Lentil Salad from Chocolate & Zucchini\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://orangette.blogspot.com/2006/10/tokaji-for-your-tarte-tatin.html\">Tarte Tatin from Orangette\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.toomanychefs.com/archives/001640.php\">Roast Pork with Braised Fennel, Apples and Onions from Too Many Chefs\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://seattlebonvivant.typepad.com/seattle_bon_vivant/2005/11/quincepomegrana.html\">Quince-Pomegranate Cranberry Compote from Seattle Bon Vivant\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://cooksister.typepad.com/cook_sister/2007/02/pomegranate_pea.html\">Pomegranate, Pear, Fennel and Arugula Salad from Cook Sister\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.deliciousdays.com/archives/2005/12/20/late-night-culinary-entertainment/\">Monkfish on Wild Rocket & Pomegranate Seeds from Delicious Days\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://sourdoughmonkeywrangler.blogspot.com/2007/01/plentiful-persimmons.html\">Fuyu Korma from Sourdough Monkey Wrangler\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://habeasbrulee.com/2007/04/19/persimmon-mint-salsa/\">Persimmon Mint Salsa from Habeas Brulee\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "A Bite of Autumn: Ginger Pear Tartlets",
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"content": "\u003cp>Sometimes, the best of intentions go awry. Fortunately, there's always frozen puff pastry. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emergency desserts during the summer are easy -- who needs to gild perfect berries? -- but as autumn settles in, it's more of a challenge to impress VIP guests, say, eight culinary experts called for a special meeting. And you're supposed to make dessert. No pressure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When your beautiful pears are still hard and you don't have a single hour more to ripen them in that handy paper bag, it's time for poaching.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Make a simple syrup by mixing together in a saucepan 1 part water, 1 part sugar, ribbons of lemon peel, and a few knobs of ginger. Crush the ginger to relieve stress and release flavor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peel your pears and cut them in half. Use a small spoon or melon baller to scoop out the core, and then plop the fruit into the poaching liquid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring to a simmer over medium-high, and then lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Press a round of parchment up against the pears to keep them moist all around and to help cook them evenly. (Remember this tip for matzo balls and red-cooked pork, too.) Make the round just a tad bit smaller than the diameter of the pan, and cut a venting hole at the center. If you don't have parchment paper, use a smaller pot lid or a flat saucer to keep the pears immersed, but be careful not to press dents into the softening fruit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They're ready when the tip of a paring knife cuts easily to the center, 20 minutes for some pears, 40 for others.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For tiny tartlets that will be served on a buffet, cut the pears in quarters and then slice thinly. If you're making one big tart for friends or family, just make parallel slices almost to the stem ends and then fan open each pear half.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Make a frangipane filling by throwing a cup of blanched or slivered almonds into your food processor. (If you don't have a food processor, buy almond meal from the nut vendors at the farmers market or visit the baking aisle at your local Trader Joe's.) Follow with a couple of eggs, 3/4 stick of soft butter (though I've been known to use the cold, hard stuff) and 1/4 to 1/2 cup sugar. Flavor with a pinch of salt and a good dash of vanilla. Buzz until a smooth, thick but spreadable mixture forms. Set this aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now for the crust...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dufourpastrykitchens.com/\">\u003cstrong>Dufour\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> is my favorite, but Trader Joe's also sells a good all-butter puff pastry that's worth keeping in your freezer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thaw the pastry as directed on the package label. Most call for a few hours in the refrigerator, followed by a few minutes at room temperature. You'll need to work quickly to prevent the butter layers from melting into each other, so gather all your cutters, pans, fillings and glazes before you take the pastry out of the refrigerator.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Make an egg wash by mixing together 1 egg and 1 tablespoon water just until foam begins to form.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For small tartlets, you'll need to roll the pastry pretty thin, say 1/8 inch. If you're making one large tart, you can stop at 1/4 inch, but don't leave it too thick, or your layers will rise so high they'll deform and spill your filling. Those who were good at Tetris should be able to squeeze 18 to 24 tartlets, each 1-1/2 inch across, out of one sheet of puff pastry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Be sure to use a sharp knife or pastry round to cut cleanly through the dough. Pressing the rim of a glass or a dull, plastic cutter into your pastry will simply seal together all those lovely layers. Use a small amount of flour as need to prevent sticking, but don't overdo it. Fastidious bakers will keep a soft brush handy to flick away excess flour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut twice as many rounds as you'll need. Switch to a smaller cutter to punch out the centers of half of the rounds to form rings. Brush the bases lightly but evenly with egg wash, then press the ring onto each large round to make a lip for the filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you don't have pastry rounds, cut small squares with a sharp knife, then cut thin strips to press around the edges. Square tarts are easy, yet look très elegant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prick the bottom crust once or twice with a fork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have time, freeze the crusts for 15 to 30 minutes before baking. Preheat the oven to 425 F (or whatever the package says) and bake the crusts for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on their size. Remove them when they are puffed but do not let them take on color. Reduce the oven to 375 F.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spread a thin layer of the nut filling into the center of the crusts. Top with the sliced fruit. I like to arrange the fruit with a bit of height for some drama on the buffet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bake the tartlet's again for about 20 minutes, or until the filling is golden brown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a more casual affair, one big tart is fine. It'll need to be baked for a longer amount of time, say 30 to 40 minutes, but it's a lot less fuss upfront.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let the tarts cool on a rack for maximum crispness. For this batch of tartlets, I reduced the poaching liquid to a thick syrup, and then brushed the pear slices with it for a nice, finishing sheen. You can melt a clear, pale jelly such as apple or white wine-thyme. Or you can just use honey. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The tarts can be frozen at several points: after rolling and cutting, after the first baking and before filling, or after baking completely. Like with roasting chickens, it doesn't that much more time to make two rather than one, so go ahead and make extra. Frozen tartlets take only 15 minutes at 275 F to warm up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Extra poached pears make an excellent topping for pancakes, waffles or French toast. Slice and rewarm in butter and brown sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, just as doughnut holes are among my favorite treats, the centers of the tartlet rounds end up becoming even more fun to eat then the tarts themselves. Brush with egg wash, sprinkle with fleur de sel and cumin seeds, bake for 10 minutes, and enjoy while still warm with a slice of cheese, a glass of wine and a huge sigh of relief.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Sometimes, the best of intentions go awry. Fortunately, there's always frozen puff pastry. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emergency desserts during the summer are easy -- who needs to gild perfect berries? -- but as autumn settles in, it's more of a challenge to impress VIP guests, say, eight culinary experts called for a special meeting. And you're supposed to make dessert. No pressure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When your beautiful pears are still hard and you don't have a single hour more to ripen them in that handy paper bag, it's time for poaching.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Make a simple syrup by mixing together in a saucepan 1 part water, 1 part sugar, ribbons of lemon peel, and a few knobs of ginger. Crush the ginger to relieve stress and release flavor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peel your pears and cut them in half. Use a small spoon or melon baller to scoop out the core, and then plop the fruit into the poaching liquid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring to a simmer over medium-high, and then lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Press a round of parchment up against the pears to keep them moist all around and to help cook them evenly. (Remember this tip for matzo balls and red-cooked pork, too.) Make the round just a tad bit smaller than the diameter of the pan, and cut a venting hole at the center. If you don't have parchment paper, use a smaller pot lid or a flat saucer to keep the pears immersed, but be careful not to press dents into the softening fruit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They're ready when the tip of a paring knife cuts easily to the center, 20 minutes for some pears, 40 for others.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For tiny tartlets that will be served on a buffet, cut the pears in quarters and then slice thinly. If you're making one big tart for friends or family, just make parallel slices almost to the stem ends and then fan open each pear half.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Make a frangipane filling by throwing a cup of blanched or slivered almonds into your food processor. (If you don't have a food processor, buy almond meal from the nut vendors at the farmers market or visit the baking aisle at your local Trader Joe's.) Follow with a couple of eggs, 3/4 stick of soft butter (though I've been known to use the cold, hard stuff) and 1/4 to 1/2 cup sugar. Flavor with a pinch of salt and a good dash of vanilla. Buzz until a smooth, thick but spreadable mixture forms. Set this aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now for the crust...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dufourpastrykitchens.com/\">\u003cstrong>Dufour\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> is my favorite, but Trader Joe's also sells a good all-butter puff pastry that's worth keeping in your freezer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thaw the pastry as directed on the package label. Most call for a few hours in the refrigerator, followed by a few minutes at room temperature. You'll need to work quickly to prevent the butter layers from melting into each other, so gather all your cutters, pans, fillings and glazes before you take the pastry out of the refrigerator.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Make an egg wash by mixing together 1 egg and 1 tablespoon water just until foam begins to form.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For small tartlets, you'll need to roll the pastry pretty thin, say 1/8 inch. If you're making one large tart, you can stop at 1/4 inch, but don't leave it too thick, or your layers will rise so high they'll deform and spill your filling. Those who were good at Tetris should be able to squeeze 18 to 24 tartlets, each 1-1/2 inch across, out of one sheet of puff pastry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Be sure to use a sharp knife or pastry round to cut cleanly through the dough. Pressing the rim of a glass or a dull, plastic cutter into your pastry will simply seal together all those lovely layers. Use a small amount of flour as need to prevent sticking, but don't overdo it. Fastidious bakers will keep a soft brush handy to flick away excess flour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut twice as many rounds as you'll need. Switch to a smaller cutter to punch out the centers of half of the rounds to form rings. Brush the bases lightly but evenly with egg wash, then press the ring onto each large round to make a lip for the filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you don't have pastry rounds, cut small squares with a sharp knife, then cut thin strips to press around the edges. Square tarts are easy, yet look très elegant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prick the bottom crust once or twice with a fork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have time, freeze the crusts for 15 to 30 minutes before baking. Preheat the oven to 425 F (or whatever the package says) and bake the crusts for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on their size. Remove them when they are puffed but do not let them take on color. Reduce the oven to 375 F.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spread a thin layer of the nut filling into the center of the crusts. Top with the sliced fruit. I like to arrange the fruit with a bit of height for some drama on the buffet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bake the tartlet's again for about 20 minutes, or until the filling is golden brown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a more casual affair, one big tart is fine. It'll need to be baked for a longer amount of time, say 30 to 40 minutes, but it's a lot less fuss upfront.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let the tarts cool on a rack for maximum crispness. For this batch of tartlets, I reduced the poaching liquid to a thick syrup, and then brushed the pear slices with it for a nice, finishing sheen. You can melt a clear, pale jelly such as apple or white wine-thyme. Or you can just use honey. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The tarts can be frozen at several points: after rolling and cutting, after the first baking and before filling, or after baking completely. Like with roasting chickens, it doesn't that much more time to make two rather than one, so go ahead and make extra. Frozen tartlets take only 15 minutes at 275 F to warm up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Extra poached pears make an excellent topping for pancakes, waffles or French toast. Slice and rewarm in butter and brown sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, just as doughnut holes are among my favorite treats, the centers of the tartlet rounds end up becoming even more fun to eat then the tarts themselves. Brush with egg wash, sprinkle with fleur de sel and cumin seeds, bake for 10 minutes, and enjoy while still warm with a slice of cheese, a glass of wine and a huge sigh of relief.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/tomatoes.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get 'em while you can...\u003cbr>Before tomatoes are gone for the season, do yourself a favor (you'll thank yourself in a few months when you are longing for that delicious tangy-sweet tomato flavor and all you can find in the stores are red globe-shaped styrofoam replicas masquerading as tomatoes) and buy a big huge bag of fresh ripe tomatoes. Make a pot of tomato sauce, a relaxing Sunday afternoon activity, which you can then freeze and use in hearty winter pasta dishes when you'd rather be curled up at home than out in the freezing rain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the kind of sauce that you almost don't need a recipe to make. It's versatile, flexible, and very forgiving. What you add to it is largely a matter of taste. In fact, I don't think I've ever made the same sauce twice. But I do use the following recipe as a starting point. What ends up in the sauce largely depends on what is in my fridge or pantry at the time, whether it's the simple basic all-purpose sauce here or includes such embellishments as roasted red bell pepper; fresh oregano, thyme or basil; dried red chile flakes, minced garlic, roasted garlic, mushrooms, or zucchini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can also use virtually any kind of tomato--heirlooms, beefsteaks, plum tomatoes, or whatever type you can get your hands on. So make your way to the nearest farmers' market, or beg your co-worker for the rest of his tomatoes that he's always handing out in the office, and get that sauce made before delicious fresh ripe summer tomatoes are gone for another year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fresh Tomato Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 40 ripe medium tomatoes\u003cbr>1 large yellow onion\u003cbr>1 or 2 medium carrots\u003cbr>2 or 3 stalks celery\u003cbr>Olive oil\u003cbr>Salt and freshly ground pepper\u003cbr>Red wine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To blanch and peel the tomatoes, fill a large stockpot 2/3 full of water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Cut a small \"x\" in the bottom of each tomato. Carefully add about a third of the tomatoes to the boiling water, let simmer for about 20 seconds, then remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/blanching_tomatoes.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Blanch the remaining tomatoes in this way.\u003cbr>Peel the tomatoes, discarding the skins, then cut in half crosswise and squeeze out the seeds. Roughly chop the tomatoes and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/peeling_tomatoes.jpg\">\u003cbr>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/chopped_toms.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dice the onion, carrots, and celery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/prep.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large stockpot over medium-high heat, warm a few tablespoons of olive oil. Add the onions and saute until they begin to turn translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the carrots and celery and about 2 teaspoons salt and some pepper. Saute until tender and the onions start to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, a few glugs of wine, reduce the heat to low, and partially cover the pot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uncooked.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let simmer until tender and saucy, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Add salt and pepper to taste. At this point you can leave the sauce chunky...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/cooked.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>...or you can puree it with an immersion blender (which is the way I like it).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/puree.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To store the sauce, let it cool completely, then divide it between freezer bags or other storage containers and freeze.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/tomatoes.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get 'em while you can...\u003cbr>Before tomatoes are gone for the season, do yourself a favor (you'll thank yourself in a few months when you are longing for that delicious tangy-sweet tomato flavor and all you can find in the stores are red globe-shaped styrofoam replicas masquerading as tomatoes) and buy a big huge bag of fresh ripe tomatoes. Make a pot of tomato sauce, a relaxing Sunday afternoon activity, which you can then freeze and use in hearty winter pasta dishes when you'd rather be curled up at home than out in the freezing rain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the kind of sauce that you almost don't need a recipe to make. It's versatile, flexible, and very forgiving. What you add to it is largely a matter of taste. In fact, I don't think I've ever made the same sauce twice. But I do use the following recipe as a starting point. What ends up in the sauce largely depends on what is in my fridge or pantry at the time, whether it's the simple basic all-purpose sauce here or includes such embellishments as roasted red bell pepper; fresh oregano, thyme or basil; dried red chile flakes, minced garlic, roasted garlic, mushrooms, or zucchini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can also use virtually any kind of tomato--heirlooms, beefsteaks, plum tomatoes, or whatever type you can get your hands on. So make your way to the nearest farmers' market, or beg your co-worker for the rest of his tomatoes that he's always handing out in the office, and get that sauce made before delicious fresh ripe summer tomatoes are gone for another year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fresh Tomato Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 40 ripe medium tomatoes\u003cbr>1 large yellow onion\u003cbr>1 or 2 medium carrots\u003cbr>2 or 3 stalks celery\u003cbr>Olive oil\u003cbr>Salt and freshly ground pepper\u003cbr>Red wine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To blanch and peel the tomatoes, fill a large stockpot 2/3 full of water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Cut a small \"x\" in the bottom of each tomato. Carefully add about a third of the tomatoes to the boiling water, let simmer for about 20 seconds, then remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/blanching_tomatoes.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Blanch the remaining tomatoes in this way.\u003cbr>Peel the tomatoes, discarding the skins, then cut in half crosswise and squeeze out the seeds. Roughly chop the tomatoes and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/peeling_tomatoes.jpg\">\u003cbr>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/chopped_toms.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dice the onion, carrots, and celery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/prep.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large stockpot over medium-high heat, warm a few tablespoons of olive oil. Add the onions and saute until they begin to turn translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the carrots and celery and about 2 teaspoons salt and some pepper. Saute until tender and the onions start to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, a few glugs of wine, reduce the heat to low, and partially cover the pot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uncooked.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let simmer until tender and saucy, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Add salt and pepper to taste. At this point you can leave the sauce chunky...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/cooked.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>...or you can puree it with an immersion blender (which is the way I like it).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/puree.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To store the sauce, let it cool completely, then divide it between freezer bags or other storage containers and freeze.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "End of Summer Lament and Ode to a Cranberry Bean",
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"content": "\u003cp>It's that time of year again, the days start to get shorter, the sun no longer wakes me up before my alarm clock (now I actually have to start setting my alarm clock), and I must begin to convince myself that summer is on the way out. In fact, there is a distinct chill in the air, if only to remind me. Sigh. The weather is still nice. But the nice man at Frog Hollow told me we'd be lucky to have even another week of peaches (as I quickly add more to my shopping bag). I can't even find corn anymore. Cherries are sooooo last season. Strawberries are few and far between and I've heard they are not long for these parts. And tomatoes. Oh tomatoes. They are still here, and delicious as ever, but I know my time with them is limited. I am buying them almost on a daily basis now. They are part of nearly every meal I prepare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even though I am lamenting summer's dwindling bounty, a whole new crop of food is peaking and autumn treats are appearing. One of my favorites has appeared recently, my late-summer love The Cranberry Bean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/cranberry_beans.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those of us who know them tend to horde them. I see the occasional stuffed plastic bag with the tell-tale mottled pinky-red pods, firmly grasped in hand. Standing at the bin, I load up my bag as full as possible (knowing full well I'm going to have to lug it on Muni all the way home). But cranberry beans have such a limited season, it's worth it to buy all that you can. They are not only the most brilliant delicious creamy wonderful fresh legume on the planet (in my oh-so-humble opinion) but they freeze extremely well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I really shouldn't be telling you all of this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But really they are so good that you should know about them. Creamy, plump, and full of fresh bean flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/cranberry_beans2.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there are all kinds of ways to use them: simply boiled and dressed as Cucina Testa Rossa describes in her \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2005/09/09/haricots-ecosses-aka-cranberry-beans/\">previous post\u003c/a> from last September, tossed with pasta, drizzled with vinaigrette in a salad, or my hands-down favorite, a big steaming bowl of Pasta e Fagioli. This hearty bean, pasta, and vegetable soup is the perfect antidote to a rainy end-of-summer night. It almost makes you happy that winter is right around the corner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pasta e Fagioli\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/06/soup_final1.jpg\" alt=\"soup\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 slices thick-cut smoked bacon (like applewood smoked) or pancetta, chopped\u003cbr>Olive oil\u003cbr>1 yellow onion, diced\u003cbr>2 carrots, peeled and diced\u003cbr>2 stalks celery, diced\u003cbr>Salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>1 cup diced fresh tomatoes, peeled and seeded or 1 (regular size) can finely chopped tomatoes\u003cbr>About 4-6 cups chicken broth, preferably homemade\u003cbr>About 1 1/2 cups fresh cranberry beans, removed from pods (this equals approximately 1 lb unshelled beans in their pod)\u003cbr>Parmesan rind (Note: if you buy a chunk of fresh Parmesan, just cut off the rind and throw it into the soup while it's cooking)\u003cbr>About 1 cup small soup pasta, like ditalini or macaroni\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To garnish\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>Fresh chopped basil\u003cbr>Grated Parmesan cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/beans_shelling.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cook the bacon in a stock pot until crisp, then remove to a plate and set aside. You can pour out the grease, but leave at least 1-2 tablespoons. Add olive oil if needed, then saute the onions, carrots, and celery until just tender. Season with salt and pepper. Add the tomatoes, broth, cranberry beans, and the Parmesan rind, if using. Simmer until the beans are tender, about an hour (give or take, it really depends on the freshness of your beans; start tasting them after about 45 minutes; you want them creamy but not mushy) . Add the pasta and cook just until al dente, about 7 minutes. Add the reserved bacon back to the soup. Serve with grated Parmesan and fresh basil.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>It's that time of year again, the days start to get shorter, the sun no longer wakes me up before my alarm clock (now I actually have to start setting my alarm clock), and I must begin to convince myself that summer is on the way out. In fact, there is a distinct chill in the air, if only to remind me. Sigh. The weather is still nice. But the nice man at Frog Hollow told me we'd be lucky to have even another week of peaches (as I quickly add more to my shopping bag). I can't even find corn anymore. Cherries are sooooo last season. Strawberries are few and far between and I've heard they are not long for these parts. And tomatoes. Oh tomatoes. They are still here, and delicious as ever, but I know my time with them is limited. I am buying them almost on a daily basis now. They are part of nearly every meal I prepare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even though I am lamenting summer's dwindling bounty, a whole new crop of food is peaking and autumn treats are appearing. One of my favorites has appeared recently, my late-summer love The Cranberry Bean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/cranberry_beans.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those of us who know them tend to horde them. I see the occasional stuffed plastic bag with the tell-tale mottled pinky-red pods, firmly grasped in hand. Standing at the bin, I load up my bag as full as possible (knowing full well I'm going to have to lug it on Muni all the way home). But cranberry beans have such a limited season, it's worth it to buy all that you can. They are not only the most brilliant delicious creamy wonderful fresh legume on the planet (in my oh-so-humble opinion) but they freeze extremely well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I really shouldn't be telling you all of this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But really they are so good that you should know about them. Creamy, plump, and full of fresh bean flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/cranberry_beans2.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there are all kinds of ways to use them: simply boiled and dressed as Cucina Testa Rossa describes in her \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2005/09/09/haricots-ecosses-aka-cranberry-beans/\">previous post\u003c/a> from last September, tossed with pasta, drizzled with vinaigrette in a salad, or my hands-down favorite, a big steaming bowl of Pasta e Fagioli. This hearty bean, pasta, and vegetable soup is the perfect antidote to a rainy end-of-summer night. It almost makes you happy that winter is right around the corner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pasta e Fagioli\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/06/soup_final1.jpg\" alt=\"soup\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 slices thick-cut smoked bacon (like applewood smoked) or pancetta, chopped\u003cbr>Olive oil\u003cbr>1 yellow onion, diced\u003cbr>2 carrots, peeled and diced\u003cbr>2 stalks celery, diced\u003cbr>Salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>1 cup diced fresh tomatoes, peeled and seeded or 1 (regular size) can finely chopped tomatoes\u003cbr>About 4-6 cups chicken broth, preferably homemade\u003cbr>About 1 1/2 cups fresh cranberry beans, removed from pods (this equals approximately 1 lb unshelled beans in their pod)\u003cbr>Parmesan rind (Note: if you buy a chunk of fresh Parmesan, just cut off the rind and throw it into the soup while it's cooking)\u003cbr>About 1 cup small soup pasta, like ditalini or macaroni\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To garnish\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>Fresh chopped basil\u003cbr>Grated Parmesan cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/beans_shelling.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cook the bacon in a stock pot until crisp, then remove to a plate and set aside. You can pour out the grease, but leave at least 1-2 tablespoons. Add olive oil if needed, then saute the onions, carrots, and celery until just tender. Season with salt and pepper. Add the tomatoes, broth, cranberry beans, and the Parmesan rind, if using. Simmer until the beans are tender, about an hour (give or take, it really depends on the freshness of your beans; start tasting them after about 45 minutes; you want them creamy but not mushy) . Add the pasta and cook just until al dente, about 7 minutes. Add the reserved bacon back to the soup. Serve with grated Parmesan and fresh basil.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Communal Pot: Seafood and Soup among the San Juan Islands",
"title": "The Communal Pot: Seafood and Soup among the San Juan Islands",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clams_islands.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Old friends and wedding parties and extended families have a way of creating memorable meals. Place them all in a gorgeous locale overflowing with fresh ingredients -- say the San Juan Islands on the Puget Sound during the last weeks of summer -- and even the simplest pot of soup becomes sublime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clams_tides.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were gathered on the northern shore of Guemes Island. A single ferry connects locals to the mainland, and the island's one store -- \u003ca href=\"http://www.guemesislandstore.com/\">\u003cstrong>Anderson's General Store\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> -- assures shoppers that: \"If we don't have it, we'll explain how you can get along without it.\" Guemes is a place where feeling the tides is a sixth sense, where the ebb and flow of water determines the success of work and the ease of play. Instead of a farmers market, there's a produce swap on Sunday mornings. The island's highest speed limit is 25 mph, and even at that, you could cross it from tip to tip in 10 leisurely minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clam_crabbing.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone who lives along the shore has a boat and a couple of crab traps. Lone buoys out on the water sport duct tape with names and phone numbers. I tried throwing out a couple of the traps to catch our dinner. Having written about the crab industry, I wasn't expecting it to be easy. But let's just say that if I had to catch my own food -- let alone make a living -- with a row boat and two heavy traps, I'd be a heck of a lot skinnier than I am now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clams_bucket.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately for us, a neighbor across the Sound stopped by and left a deep, wide bucket filled with freshly dug clams and sea water. It was waiting quietly on the beach for us. I tried to count, but stopped at 140.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bride's mother chipped in tomatoes from her garden. The groom's father offered fresh corn; the cobs and some salmon trimmings would make a rich, sweet stock. There were bottles of wine leftover from the wedding. Butter and garlic, fortunately, always magically appear in the company of food-lovers. A loaf of bread from the wedding reception was a bit stale, making it perfect for croutons, and our cabin offered up the last requirement: a big pot generous enough to hold all the food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No crabs, unfortunately. But where nature taketh away, she always giveth in return.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clams_stew.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Neighborly Clams with White Wedding Wine\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soak freshly-dug clams in cornmeal for a couple of hours to help them purge all their grit. Scrub and rinse them well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut off the kernels from whole corn (reserve them for making creamed corn or, even better, salmon and corn chowder for lunch the next day). If you have a sharp knife, cut the corn cobs in half or quarters. If you don't, ask one of the stronger wedding guests to break them in two. Boil them in a pot of water with any trimmings you may have: carrot, onion, celery, or just some salmon skin and belly flaps. Strain and reserve the broth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now the fun part: Melt some butter in a big pot. Add chopped onion and garlic and the precious last carrot; saute over a medium flame until softened. Stir in chopped tomatoes and as much of their juices as you can catch, stir a few times, and then pour in a quarter to a whole bottle of wine. Add that corn and salmon broth that you made earlier. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes to meld together all the flavors and emulsify the butter. Season with salt and pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring the broth back to a full boil. Add the clams and cover tightly. In about 10 minutes, give the clams a good stir and check for doneness. If you have a big batch, you'll probably need to continue cooking for another 5 to 10 minutes. If you like your clams on the rare side, take them out just as soon as they've all opened fully.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring the pot to the table along with all the bowls you can find in the cabin. Pass around toasted stale bread, more bottles of wine and stories of younger, greener days.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clams_islands.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Old friends and wedding parties and extended families have a way of creating memorable meals. Place them all in a gorgeous locale overflowing with fresh ingredients -- say the San Juan Islands on the Puget Sound during the last weeks of summer -- and even the simplest pot of soup becomes sublime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clams_tides.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were gathered on the northern shore of Guemes Island. A single ferry connects locals to the mainland, and the island's one store -- \u003ca href=\"http://www.guemesislandstore.com/\">\u003cstrong>Anderson's General Store\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> -- assures shoppers that: \"If we don't have it, we'll explain how you can get along without it.\" Guemes is a place where feeling the tides is a sixth sense, where the ebb and flow of water determines the success of work and the ease of play. Instead of a farmers market, there's a produce swap on Sunday mornings. The island's highest speed limit is 25 mph, and even at that, you could cross it from tip to tip in 10 leisurely minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clam_crabbing.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone who lives along the shore has a boat and a couple of crab traps. Lone buoys out on the water sport duct tape with names and phone numbers. I tried throwing out a couple of the traps to catch our dinner. Having written about the crab industry, I wasn't expecting it to be easy. But let's just say that if I had to catch my own food -- let alone make a living -- with a row boat and two heavy traps, I'd be a heck of a lot skinnier than I am now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clams_bucket.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately for us, a neighbor across the Sound stopped by and left a deep, wide bucket filled with freshly dug clams and sea water. It was waiting quietly on the beach for us. I tried to count, but stopped at 140.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bride's mother chipped in tomatoes from her garden. The groom's father offered fresh corn; the cobs and some salmon trimmings would make a rich, sweet stock. There were bottles of wine leftover from the wedding. Butter and garlic, fortunately, always magically appear in the company of food-lovers. A loaf of bread from the wedding reception was a bit stale, making it perfect for croutons, and our cabin offered up the last requirement: a big pot generous enough to hold all the food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No crabs, unfortunately. But where nature taketh away, she always giveth in return.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clams_stew.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Neighborly Clams with White Wedding Wine\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soak freshly-dug clams in cornmeal for a couple of hours to help them purge all their grit. Scrub and rinse them well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut off the kernels from whole corn (reserve them for making creamed corn or, even better, salmon and corn chowder for lunch the next day). If you have a sharp knife, cut the corn cobs in half or quarters. If you don't, ask one of the stronger wedding guests to break them in two. Boil them in a pot of water with any trimmings you may have: carrot, onion, celery, or just some salmon skin and belly flaps. Strain and reserve the broth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now the fun part: Melt some butter in a big pot. Add chopped onion and garlic and the precious last carrot; saute over a medium flame until softened. Stir in chopped tomatoes and as much of their juices as you can catch, stir a few times, and then pour in a quarter to a whole bottle of wine. Add that corn and salmon broth that you made earlier. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes to meld together all the flavors and emulsify the butter. Season with salt and pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring the broth back to a full boil. Add the clams and cover tightly. In about 10 minutes, give the clams a good stir and check for doneness. If you have a big batch, you'll probably need to continue cooking for another 5 to 10 minutes. If you like your clams on the rare side, take them out just as soon as they've all opened fully.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring the pot to the table along with all the bowls you can find in the cabin. Pass around toasted stale bread, more bottles of wine and stories of younger, greener days.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": ""Grilling" Fish Inside Your Kitchen",
"title": ""Grilling" Fish Inside Your Kitchen",
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"content": "\u003cp>My first summer in San Francisco, I bought a little Weber and installed it on my fire escape. Within two minutes of lighting its inaugural pile of charcoal, I answered my doorbell to find an irate neighbor pointing at the flames and reminding me that all the houses in our neighborhood were constructed of wood. My poor Smokey Joe was instantly retired. Since then, I've explored various safer ways to char my food and finally, after quite a few years, settled on a system that actually works.After dismissing stovetop options, such as grill pans and an aluminum rack on legs that I dug up in the back aisle of \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/RavsFlQTMjnPpfr68Ycthw\">\u003cstrong>Soko Hardware\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, I finally cobbled together a simple setup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had a gas stove from the 80s with a broiler drawer at the bottom. (It was pristine the first time I opened it; the previous inhabitants hadn't used it once!) Unfortunately, I could never get enough heat to sear and finish food with that unique texture and flavor that comes from the direct heat of a hot, dry flame. Everything steamed and soaked in its own juices, and my food always left a mess that was a pain to scrub away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two things changed that:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1) Replacing the wimpy grill pan that came with the stove. I bought the biggest, heaviest searing grill that I could find. The ones that stretch across two burners and have a grease well are perfect. I splurged on a \u003ca href=\"http://ww1.dacor.com/products/product_page.asp?ID=searing_grill\">\u003cstrong>Dacor searing grill\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, but there are plenty others that will work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2) Following \u003ca href=\"http://www.lckitchen.com/\">\u003cstrong>Linda Carucci's advice\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and keeping the door of the broiler open an inch or so. This helps the steam escape to maintain dry heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you can see from the photo, even whole fish grills up crisp and clean. It's essential to preheat the searing grill until smoking hot. The first few times you use it, be sure to brush it lightly with peanut or grapeseed oil (you'll need the high-smoke point!). As the grill becomes seasoned though, the oil in the marinades and moist rubs is enough to lift food off easily. I can now confidently follow summer recipes throughout the year while keeping my fire escape free of flames.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the other half of grilling fish in the city, here's a quick primer on buying the freshest fish possible...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>FINDING A FISHMONGER\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Visit a quality fishmonger. New May Wah on Clement and 8th Ave, Bryan's on California St., Shogun Fish at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, Berkeley Bowl, \u003ca href=\"http://www.99ranch.com/StoreLocator.asp\">\u003cstrong>99 Ranch\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and Whole Foods are a few of the places I'd recommend, but the best thing to do is look for a good store near you and then cultivate a relationship with the folks behind the counter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ask friendly questions, such as their advice about the freshest fish of the day, how it was caught and how they like to prepare it. After a few visits, you'll figure out if they know what they're talking about. Best of all, you'll become one of those favorite regulars who receive the best of the counter. Any quality vendor appreciates curious customers who are looking for good products. (Be prepared for brusque service at the Asian fish counters, though. I hate to admit it, but customer service isn't their forte. Super-fresh fish for the fearless, on the other hand, they have covered.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you walk into a new place, look for lots of ice for the whole fish and metal trays for the fillets and steaks. Needless to say, you should immediately leave any place that smells of rotten fish. A wall of tanks filled with lively fish swimming in clear, bubbling water is at the top of my own list, since I often point at the exact fish I want netted. Little signs that indicate origin and the method of catching are helpful for those who are trying to eat within \u003ca href=\"http://www.mbayaq.org/cr/seafoodwatch.asp\">\u003cstrong>a sustainable seafood system.\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SELECTING FISH\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On whole fish, don't be afraid to lift the gills to check for red blood. Avoid any fish with dry, browned gills. Then press your forefinger into the thickest part of the fish's flank to watch its flesh spring back out, quick and firm. Wet, moist tail and fins are good; dry, brittle ones are bad. Clear, shiny, rounded eyes are another good indicator of fresh fish, although sometimes the ice can damage them, so it shouldn't be the only thing on your list. Sniff for an odor of ocean. It's okay to get a noseful of \"pier perfume,\" but there should be no hint of decay or any strong \"fishiness\" that reveals too many days out of the water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're buying fillets, the touch and smell tests are the best. Even cut flesh will spring back. You shouldn't be able to see a depression where your finger was. The longer your fingerprint lingers, the older the fish. Sliminess is another sure sign that you should move on to the next fish or choose chicken for dinner. Whole fish will have a natural shine and slipperiness -- the scales dull and loosen as the fish ages out of water -- but cut flesh should not feel slick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the fish is protected behind glass cases, I make a point of asking the person helping me to poke the fish for me or to bring it out so I can perform my own touch and sniff tests. No, I don't mind people behind me sighing, rolling their eyes or muttering under their breaths.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes, though, the best fish is in the freezer. A fish that's expertly frozen within hours of leaving its watery home is much, much better in quality than a so-called fresh fish that's taken almost a week to get from boat to market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After going through all that trouble tracking down and identifying a good fish, don't bother waiting a couple of days to cook it. Plan on buying, cooking and eating your fish the same day or, at the most, within a day of finding it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>PREPARING WHOLE FISH FOR THE GRILL OR BROILER\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are some tips for handling whole fish:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're not comfortable gutting and scaling a whole fish (that's another whole entry in itself...) then make it easy on yourself and ask the fishmonger to clean the fish for you. What you want is simply a dressed fish: gutted and scaled but with its head, fins and tail intact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get back home quickly, or plan to bring a cooler or insulated bag with you. I often ask the fishmonger to put the fish, after weighing it, into another bag with some ice. No market has ever refused to do this, and they may have a ice pack or two that they're happy to pass along.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you unwrap the fish in your own kitchen, take care with the tail and fins. They sometimes have sharp ends that can poke or cut your hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With any fish that's more than two inches thick, cut three slits at an angle into each side of the fish to allow the heat to penetrate to the center. I like to fill the belly cavity with aromatics -- say scallions and lemon slices or big handfuls of fennel fronds -- in order to maintain its rounded shape at the table. A few toothpicks soaked in water will keep the belly flaps together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's an old trick for creating a \"nonstick\" grill rack: Cut a big, starchy potato in half. Stick the potato halves onto a big fork. Be sure the grill rack is clean and free of burnt food remains. Once the preheated grill rack is hot, rub it well with the cut side of the potato halves. The instantly seared layer of starch will create a surface which will release the fish more readily, especially if you have a brand-new, shiny grill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For every inch of thickness, allow ten minutes to cook the fish. It will vary slightly either way, but this is a good baseline for figuring out cooking times. Once the fish flakes easily close to the bone, it's ready for eating. I prefer undercooking to any amount of overcooking, but you should cook the fish to the point that you enjoy. With the variation in size and species, the best way to test for flake is with the tip of a paring knife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Use two wide spatulas to roll the fish gently when it's ready to turn. Be sure there are enough hot coals beneath the area where the second side will cook. Brush the fish lightly with oil before turning it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wrapping a fish in soaked banana leaves will make the fish easier to turn and remove. You'll lose that nice char but will gain a wonderful smoky flavor while retaining lots of moisture. Plan for a longer cooking time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have a pizza peel or one of those thin cookie sheets, especially one with \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/AirBake-WearEver-Natural-baking-Medium/dp/B000222C8O/ref=sr_1_6/104-8042839-0101506?ie=UTF8&s=kitchen&qid=1186942585&sr=1-6\">\u003cstrong>a tapered edge\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, then you can scoop up the whole fish with little effort. Otherwise, use those two wide spatulas and have the platter as close to the fish as possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SPICY GINGER-LEMONGRASS RUB\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a recipe that I've adapted from my uncles in Vietnam. Whenever I visited, they'd chop down a young banana tree to create an impromptu grill. Two logs of the juicy trunk supported split bamboo skewers, and everything from the family chicken to sweet field mice ended up coated with this spicy, savory rub.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/SUMEET-ASIA-KITCHEN-MACHINE-110V/dp/B000OY66XW\">\u003cstrong>an Indian-style mixie\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> which makes it a lot easier to blend the hard lemongrass with minimal liquid. If you have a regular blender, plan on chopping the ingredients more finely and then adding a bit more oil and/or wine to help the blades do their thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chop roughly:\u003cbr>\nA big knob of ginger, peeled\u003cbr>\nThe pale half of 4 stalks of lemon grass\u003cbr>\n3 large cloves of moist, plump garlic\u003cbr>\n2-4 red Thai chiles, seeded or not as you wish\u003cbr>\nA small knob of fresh turmeric (or a half teaspoon of powdered turmeric)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Have ready 3-4 tablespoons each:\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.chinesetakeaways.com/Ingredients/Shaoxing%20Rice%20Wine.htm\">\u003cstrong>Shaoxing rice wine\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> or dry sherry\u003cbr>\nVegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the aromatic, dry ingredients in the jar of a blender. Drizzle in 2 tablespoons of the rice wine and oil. Blend to a smooth paste, adding more liquid and scraping down as needed. Rub evenly onto fish, chicken, beef, pork or pressed tofu. Cover and let marinate in the refrigerator overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grill or broil the meat or tofu with high, direct heat, brushing lightly with additional oil.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": "My first summer in San Francisco, I bought a little Weber and installed it on my fire escape. Within two minutes of lighting its inaugural pile of charcoal, I answered my doorbell to find an irate neighbor pointing at the flames and reminding me that all the houses in our neighborhood were constructed of wood.",
"title": ""Grilling" Fish Inside Your Kitchen | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>My first summer in San Francisco, I bought a little Weber and installed it on my fire escape. Within two minutes of lighting its inaugural pile of charcoal, I answered my doorbell to find an irate neighbor pointing at the flames and reminding me that all the houses in our neighborhood were constructed of wood. My poor Smokey Joe was instantly retired. Since then, I've explored various safer ways to char my food and finally, after quite a few years, settled on a system that actually works.After dismissing stovetop options, such as grill pans and an aluminum rack on legs that I dug up in the back aisle of \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/RavsFlQTMjnPpfr68Ycthw\">\u003cstrong>Soko Hardware\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, I finally cobbled together a simple setup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had a gas stove from the 80s with a broiler drawer at the bottom. (It was pristine the first time I opened it; the previous inhabitants hadn't used it once!) Unfortunately, I could never get enough heat to sear and finish food with that unique texture and flavor that comes from the direct heat of a hot, dry flame. Everything steamed and soaked in its own juices, and my food always left a mess that was a pain to scrub away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two things changed that:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1) Replacing the wimpy grill pan that came with the stove. I bought the biggest, heaviest searing grill that I could find. The ones that stretch across two burners and have a grease well are perfect. I splurged on a \u003ca href=\"http://ww1.dacor.com/products/product_page.asp?ID=searing_grill\">\u003cstrong>Dacor searing grill\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, but there are plenty others that will work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2) Following \u003ca href=\"http://www.lckitchen.com/\">\u003cstrong>Linda Carucci's advice\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and keeping the door of the broiler open an inch or so. This helps the steam escape to maintain dry heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you can see from the photo, even whole fish grills up crisp and clean. It's essential to preheat the searing grill until smoking hot. The first few times you use it, be sure to brush it lightly with peanut or grapeseed oil (you'll need the high-smoke point!). As the grill becomes seasoned though, the oil in the marinades and moist rubs is enough to lift food off easily. I can now confidently follow summer recipes throughout the year while keeping my fire escape free of flames.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the other half of grilling fish in the city, here's a quick primer on buying the freshest fish possible...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>FINDING A FISHMONGER\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Visit a quality fishmonger. New May Wah on Clement and 8th Ave, Bryan's on California St., Shogun Fish at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, Berkeley Bowl, \u003ca href=\"http://www.99ranch.com/StoreLocator.asp\">\u003cstrong>99 Ranch\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and Whole Foods are a few of the places I'd recommend, but the best thing to do is look for a good store near you and then cultivate a relationship with the folks behind the counter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ask friendly questions, such as their advice about the freshest fish of the day, how it was caught and how they like to prepare it. After a few visits, you'll figure out if they know what they're talking about. Best of all, you'll become one of those favorite regulars who receive the best of the counter. Any quality vendor appreciates curious customers who are looking for good products. (Be prepared for brusque service at the Asian fish counters, though. I hate to admit it, but customer service isn't their forte. Super-fresh fish for the fearless, on the other hand, they have covered.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you walk into a new place, look for lots of ice for the whole fish and metal trays for the fillets and steaks. Needless to say, you should immediately leave any place that smells of rotten fish. A wall of tanks filled with lively fish swimming in clear, bubbling water is at the top of my own list, since I often point at the exact fish I want netted. Little signs that indicate origin and the method of catching are helpful for those who are trying to eat within \u003ca href=\"http://www.mbayaq.org/cr/seafoodwatch.asp\">\u003cstrong>a sustainable seafood system.\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SELECTING FISH\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On whole fish, don't be afraid to lift the gills to check for red blood. Avoid any fish with dry, browned gills. Then press your forefinger into the thickest part of the fish's flank to watch its flesh spring back out, quick and firm. Wet, moist tail and fins are good; dry, brittle ones are bad. Clear, shiny, rounded eyes are another good indicator of fresh fish, although sometimes the ice can damage them, so it shouldn't be the only thing on your list. Sniff for an odor of ocean. It's okay to get a noseful of \"pier perfume,\" but there should be no hint of decay or any strong \"fishiness\" that reveals too many days out of the water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're buying fillets, the touch and smell tests are the best. Even cut flesh will spring back. You shouldn't be able to see a depression where your finger was. The longer your fingerprint lingers, the older the fish. Sliminess is another sure sign that you should move on to the next fish or choose chicken for dinner. Whole fish will have a natural shine and slipperiness -- the scales dull and loosen as the fish ages out of water -- but cut flesh should not feel slick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the fish is protected behind glass cases, I make a point of asking the person helping me to poke the fish for me or to bring it out so I can perform my own touch and sniff tests. No, I don't mind people behind me sighing, rolling their eyes or muttering under their breaths.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes, though, the best fish is in the freezer. A fish that's expertly frozen within hours of leaving its watery home is much, much better in quality than a so-called fresh fish that's taken almost a week to get from boat to market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After going through all that trouble tracking down and identifying a good fish, don't bother waiting a couple of days to cook it. Plan on buying, cooking and eating your fish the same day or, at the most, within a day of finding it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>PREPARING WHOLE FISH FOR THE GRILL OR BROILER\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are some tips for handling whole fish:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're not comfortable gutting and scaling a whole fish (that's another whole entry in itself...) then make it easy on yourself and ask the fishmonger to clean the fish for you. What you want is simply a dressed fish: gutted and scaled but with its head, fins and tail intact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get back home quickly, or plan to bring a cooler or insulated bag with you. I often ask the fishmonger to put the fish, after weighing it, into another bag with some ice. No market has ever refused to do this, and they may have a ice pack or two that they're happy to pass along.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you unwrap the fish in your own kitchen, take care with the tail and fins. They sometimes have sharp ends that can poke or cut your hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With any fish that's more than two inches thick, cut three slits at an angle into each side of the fish to allow the heat to penetrate to the center. I like to fill the belly cavity with aromatics -- say scallions and lemon slices or big handfuls of fennel fronds -- in order to maintain its rounded shape at the table. A few toothpicks soaked in water will keep the belly flaps together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's an old trick for creating a \"nonstick\" grill rack: Cut a big, starchy potato in half. Stick the potato halves onto a big fork. Be sure the grill rack is clean and free of burnt food remains. Once the preheated grill rack is hot, rub it well with the cut side of the potato halves. The instantly seared layer of starch will create a surface which will release the fish more readily, especially if you have a brand-new, shiny grill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For every inch of thickness, allow ten minutes to cook the fish. It will vary slightly either way, but this is a good baseline for figuring out cooking times. Once the fish flakes easily close to the bone, it's ready for eating. I prefer undercooking to any amount of overcooking, but you should cook the fish to the point that you enjoy. With the variation in size and species, the best way to test for flake is with the tip of a paring knife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Use two wide spatulas to roll the fish gently when it's ready to turn. Be sure there are enough hot coals beneath the area where the second side will cook. Brush the fish lightly with oil before turning it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wrapping a fish in soaked banana leaves will make the fish easier to turn and remove. You'll lose that nice char but will gain a wonderful smoky flavor while retaining lots of moisture. Plan for a longer cooking time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have a pizza peel or one of those thin cookie sheets, especially one with \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/AirBake-WearEver-Natural-baking-Medium/dp/B000222C8O/ref=sr_1_6/104-8042839-0101506?ie=UTF8&s=kitchen&qid=1186942585&sr=1-6\">\u003cstrong>a tapered edge\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, then you can scoop up the whole fish with little effort. Otherwise, use those two wide spatulas and have the platter as close to the fish as possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SPICY GINGER-LEMONGRASS RUB\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a recipe that I've adapted from my uncles in Vietnam. Whenever I visited, they'd chop down a young banana tree to create an impromptu grill. Two logs of the juicy trunk supported split bamboo skewers, and everything from the family chicken to sweet field mice ended up coated with this spicy, savory rub.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/SUMEET-ASIA-KITCHEN-MACHINE-110V/dp/B000OY66XW\">\u003cstrong>an Indian-style mixie\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> which makes it a lot easier to blend the hard lemongrass with minimal liquid. If you have a regular blender, plan on chopping the ingredients more finely and then adding a bit more oil and/or wine to help the blades do their thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chop roughly:\u003cbr>\nA big knob of ginger, peeled\u003cbr>\nThe pale half of 4 stalks of lemon grass\u003cbr>\n3 large cloves of moist, plump garlic\u003cbr>\n2-4 red Thai chiles, seeded or not as you wish\u003cbr>\nA small knob of fresh turmeric (or a half teaspoon of powdered turmeric)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Have ready 3-4 tablespoons each:\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.chinesetakeaways.com/Ingredients/Shaoxing%20Rice%20Wine.htm\">\u003cstrong>Shaoxing rice wine\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> or dry sherry\u003cbr>\nVegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the aromatic, dry ingredients in the jar of a blender. Drizzle in 2 tablespoons of the rice wine and oil. Blend to a smooth paste, adding more liquid and scraping down as needed. Rub evenly onto fish, chicken, beef, pork or pressed tofu. Cover and let marinate in the refrigerator overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Plum Chutney: Tales from the Backyard",
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"content": "\u003cp>Canning for me conjures up childhood memories of being in the kitchen with my mom and her friends, usually on a hot steamy Texas summer day, and \"putting up\" bread and butter pickles, fresh raspberry jam (with seeds!), and ripe whole tomatoes. Even with the sweat pouring down your face, there's no better time to can than in the middle of the summer, at the height of the season, when everything is bursting with flavor: crisp cucumbers, ripe red tomatoes, juicy stone fruits, plump berries. Better still when you can pick that fruit out of your own garden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/plum_tree.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are lucky enough to have a big shady plum tree, right smack in the middle of our little garden, right smack in the heart of the Mission in San Francisco. If you think that isn't fair, then start making friends with people who have fruit trees and vegetable gardens; we always seem to have more than we can eat or harvest and are looking for others who will enjoy it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tales of plum wine gone awry (think essence of gasoline) from years past still haunt my flat and the flats above me. And last year we missed the boat and the plums ripened before we could harvest them. Which meant tracking slimy fruit globs into the house, sticky matted fur on the cat, and drunken birds and rats feasting on the fermenting fruit. In an effort to avoid that joyous occurrence (have I not painted a lovely picture?), my roommate Gary (staunch believer in preparing for the revolution) made a concerted effort to rally the troops and plan for the big harvest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So a few weeks ago, when the tree was bursting with perfectly ripe, big juicy green plums, we set aside our sunny Sunday and three of us--armed with our giant canning pot, a ladder, and numerous plastic grocery bags--plucked all of the plums we could reach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/plum_pot.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After throwing around elaborate ideas of jams and jellies and syrups and pickles and more, including drawing up a chart of flavors that go well with plum (including but not limited to cardamom, ginger, and whisky) as well as different preparations (including roasting the plums) we arrived at a consensus: to prepare a simple plum jam that would let the tart yet subtle plum flavor shine, and a more interesting plum and apple chutney.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took all day, but after a while, the cold beers came out, the sweat started pouring down our faces, and it was all worth it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cfont>G-Street Plum Chutney\u003c/font>\u003cbr>\u003cfont>Makes about 14 8-oz jars\u003c/font>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups sugar (or a bit less if the plums are very sweet)\u003cbr>1 1/2 cups white vinegar\u003cbr>1 cup water\u003cbr>1 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>2 sticks cinnamon, broken into 1-inch pieces\u003cbr>1 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and thickly sliced\u003cbr>1 teaspoon whole allspice\u003cbr>Cheesecloth\u003cbr>About 6 1/2 lbs plums, pitted and quartered\u003cbr>2 large apples, such as Granny Smith, peeled, cored, and diced\u003cbr>1/2 large yellow onion, peeled and finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/chutney_pot.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large, heavy pot, combine the sugar, vinegar, water, and salt. In a 6-inch square of cheesecloth, tie the cinnamon sticks, ginger, and allspice into a pouch and add it to the pot. Heat the mixture over medium-high heat until boiling, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer for about 5 minutes until the mixture becomes syrupy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the plums, apples, and onions. Cook, stirring often, over low heat, until the mixture is thickened, about 40-60 minutes. Remove the spice bag. Seal in hot sterilized jars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/final_chutney.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For proper canning instructions, check out:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.uga.edu/nchfp/index.html\">A very serious and official guide\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.pickyourown.org/apricotjam.htm\">A good online step-by-step guide\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.paulnoll.com/Oregon/Canning/index.html\">Paul and Bernice, who are awesome!\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>special thanks to Gary and Keith for the lovely plummy pix\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Canning for me conjures up childhood memories of being in the kitchen with my mom and her friends, usually on a hot steamy Texas summer day, and \"putting up\" bread and butter pickles, fresh raspberry jam (with seeds!), and ripe whole tomatoes. Even with the sweat pouring down your face, there's no better time to can than in the middle of the summer, at the height of the season, when everything is bursting with flavor: crisp cucumbers, ripe red tomatoes, juicy stone fruits, plump berries. Better still when you can pick that fruit out of your own garden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/plum_tree.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are lucky enough to have a big shady plum tree, right smack in the middle of our little garden, right smack in the heart of the Mission in San Francisco. If you think that isn't fair, then start making friends with people who have fruit trees and vegetable gardens; we always seem to have more than we can eat or harvest and are looking for others who will enjoy it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tales of plum wine gone awry (think essence of gasoline) from years past still haunt my flat and the flats above me. And last year we missed the boat and the plums ripened before we could harvest them. Which meant tracking slimy fruit globs into the house, sticky matted fur on the cat, and drunken birds and rats feasting on the fermenting fruit. In an effort to avoid that joyous occurrence (have I not painted a lovely picture?), my roommate Gary (staunch believer in preparing for the revolution) made a concerted effort to rally the troops and plan for the big harvest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So a few weeks ago, when the tree was bursting with perfectly ripe, big juicy green plums, we set aside our sunny Sunday and three of us--armed with our giant canning pot, a ladder, and numerous plastic grocery bags--plucked all of the plums we could reach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/plum_pot.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After throwing around elaborate ideas of jams and jellies and syrups and pickles and more, including drawing up a chart of flavors that go well with plum (including but not limited to cardamom, ginger, and whisky) as well as different preparations (including roasting the plums) we arrived at a consensus: to prepare a simple plum jam that would let the tart yet subtle plum flavor shine, and a more interesting plum and apple chutney.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took all day, but after a while, the cold beers came out, the sweat started pouring down our faces, and it was all worth it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cfont>G-Street Plum Chutney\u003c/font>\u003cbr>\u003cfont>Makes about 14 8-oz jars\u003c/font>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups sugar (or a bit less if the plums are very sweet)\u003cbr>1 1/2 cups white vinegar\u003cbr>1 cup water\u003cbr>1 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>2 sticks cinnamon, broken into 1-inch pieces\u003cbr>1 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and thickly sliced\u003cbr>1 teaspoon whole allspice\u003cbr>Cheesecloth\u003cbr>About 6 1/2 lbs plums, pitted and quartered\u003cbr>2 large apples, such as Granny Smith, peeled, cored, and diced\u003cbr>1/2 large yellow onion, peeled and finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/chutney_pot.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large, heavy pot, combine the sugar, vinegar, water, and salt. In a 6-inch square of cheesecloth, tie the cinnamon sticks, ginger, and allspice into a pouch and add it to the pot. Heat the mixture over medium-high heat until boiling, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer for about 5 minutes until the mixture becomes syrupy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the plums, apples, and onions. Cook, stirring often, over low heat, until the mixture is thickened, about 40-60 minutes. Remove the spice bag. Seal in hot sterilized jars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/final_chutney.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For proper canning instructions, check out:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.uga.edu/nchfp/index.html\">A very serious and official guide\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.pickyourown.org/apricotjam.htm\">A good online step-by-step guide\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.paulnoll.com/Oregon/Canning/index.html\">Paul and Bernice, who are awesome!\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>special thanks to Gary and Keith for the lovely plummy pix\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Peaches, Herb and Melba.",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/peach-melba-733028.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before getting to the meat of today's subject matter, I'd like to explain something-- the evolution of today's post.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm off to my 20th high school reunion this weekend so, naturally, the song \"Reunited\" by Peaches and Herb has been crowding my brain. The initial idea was to exorcise this R & B demon from my head by making a salad containing, naturally again, peaches and herbs. I thought that by taking matters into my own hands, uniting these two ingredients and then consuming them might give me some sort of edge. However, I became frustratingly uncertain as to which herb was the right Herb. Peaches might react unpleasantly to, say, marjoram or, even worse, dill. Rosemary sounded nice, but my hunch told me that herbs with feminine names wouldn't appeal to her either. The goal here was a reunion that \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rS_wik3Rum8\">feels so good\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I abandoned Herb, but I kept Peaches with me. I thought about explaining where she came from (China, not Persia as her botanical name Prunus persica suggests) and how she came to whet our appetites with just a little shake of her sequined \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmNUvT0f44w\">groove thing\u003c/a>. I was surprised by both her strength and her depth-- much more depth than I think your Friday morning attention span can handle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So I decided to make Peach Melba instead.\u003cbr>\n\u003cobject width=\"425\" height=\"355\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/RypM4dHOb9M\">\u003cparam name=\"wmode\" value=\"transparent\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/RypM4dHOb9M\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" wmode=\"transparent\" width=\"425\" height=\"355\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's Nelly Melba in the clip above. Sadly, she's not making her peach dish. Instead, she's making a cake for the Duke and Duchess of York, later to be known as King George VI and Queen Elizabeth. I couldn't find any other footage of her, so this will have to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Born in what is now a suburb of Melbourne, Australia in 1861, Helen Porter Mitchell grew up to ditch her son-of-a-baronet husband and infant son, change her name to Nellie Melba (in honor of her hometown) and become one of the greatest-- or at least most famous-- sopranos in opera history. She has inspired not only the above mentioned dessert concoction, but toast, thereby making her the most eponymed woman in modern food history. Why such honors?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't her sweet disposition. Apart from abandoning her family, she was also known as a fickle, upstaging attention-grabber. The consummate diva, when asked to answer for her own bad behavior, the words \"I am Melba\" always passed from her lips. That, she believed, was enough explaination. She was also given to physically shoving other performers downstage if they got in her way. She was, not surprisingly, detested by her peers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She was, however, loved by her public. One man in particular-- Auguste Escoffier-- adored her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While appearing at Covent Garden-- her operatic home for more than twenty years-- and residing at the Savoy Hotel where Escoffier was master chef, she sent him (possibly as a thank you for previously naming the \u003ca href=\"http://www.melbatoast.com/\">toast\u003c/a> in her honor) a pair of tickets to see her in Richard Wagner's Lohengrin. Escoffier was so taken with her performance that he created another dish (if toast can indeed be called a dish) for her-- Peche au Cygne (Peach with Swan)-- peaches and vanilla ice cream served alongside a dramatic swan ice sculpture which mimicked the \u003ca href=\"http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/48/Lohengrin-kitsch.jpg/180px-Lohengrin-kitsch.jpg&imgrefurl=http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lohengrin_%28op%25C3%25A9ra%29&h=252&w=180&sz=19&hl=en&start=0&um=1&tbnid=eXzCqVT_FSb5DM:&tbnh=111&tbnw=79&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dlohengrin%26svnum%3D10%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN\">swan-shaped boat\u003c/a> featured in the opera. It was not, however, called Peach Melba. He renamed the dessert a few years later, after his move to the Ritz Carlton, adding both raspberry sauce and the Melba name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Legend has it that Melba was concerned that eating ice cream might constrict her gorgeous vocal chords, which is why I have chosen to serve the peaches below slightly warm. I know what it's like to piss off a diva, believe me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peach Melba:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ingredients:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 yellow peaches. Not too ripe. Freestones make life easier.\u003cbr>\n4 cups water. You may also poach the peaches in white wine. Frankly, I'd rather drink the wine\u003cbr>\nthan poach with it.\u003cbr>\n2 cups sugar\u003cbr>\n2 cups raspberries (fresh or frozen). Fresh raspberries are ideal for garnishing.\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon lemon juice\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons of sugar (taste the raspberries before adding sugar. I prefer the sauce to be tart,\u003cbr>\nlike la Melba herself)\u003cbr>\nVanilla ice cream. (I'm using vanilla sorbet because I have to lose 10 pounds by tomorrow for\u003cbr>\nmy reunion.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some sort of wafer cookies for garnish and a little crunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparation:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Slice a shallow \"x\" on the bottom of each peach to facilitate peeling. Blanch the peaches in the four cups of simmering water for about one minute. Or two. Is the skin starting to peel away along the edges of the little \"x\"? If so, take them out and place fruit in an ice bath to cool them. Let sit until well cooled, then excoriate. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add sugar to the simmering water, stirring lightly to dissolve. Return the denuded peaches to the simmering syrup. Turn off the heat and walk away for a while. Some swear by slicing the peaches before poaching them. I'm not a fan-- the edges of the peaches become too soft and feathery. Do so at your own risk. I like the center of the peach to have a little bit of give to it. Probably because I have teeth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the peaches are doing their thing, make the raspberry sauce. Place berries, 1/4 cup of sugar and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice into your cuisenart or what-have-you and pulse. I had some berries in the freezer and did not bother to wait until they thawed before I pureed them. I ended up making a sort of soft-serve sorbet as a result, which I let melt to become spoonable and saucy. Set aside and wash your blending apparatus immediately, if only to save yourself from flicking bits of seed stuck to the plastic with your fingernail later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the syrup has cooled to slightly warm, remove the peaches and slice in half, removing the stones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To Assemble:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In parfait glasses or whatever you have handy-- \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LS75NtlH3gI\">vessels with pestles, flagons with dragons\u003c/a>-- spoon a little raspberry sauce on the bottom. Of the glass, please. Place one half of a peach, which should be slightly warm on top. Spoon vanilla ice cream over that, drizzle with a little more raspberry sauce. Garnish with whole raspberries and cookie. Serve immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Fun Fact* Nellie Melba died on 23 February, 1931 as a result of complications from a botched plastic surgery.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/peach-melba-733028.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before getting to the meat of today's subject matter, I'd like to explain something-- the evolution of today's post.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm off to my 20th high school reunion this weekend so, naturally, the song \"Reunited\" by Peaches and Herb has been crowding my brain. The initial idea was to exorcise this R & B demon from my head by making a salad containing, naturally again, peaches and herbs. I thought that by taking matters into my own hands, uniting these two ingredients and then consuming them might give me some sort of edge. However, I became frustratingly uncertain as to which herb was the right Herb. Peaches might react unpleasantly to, say, marjoram or, even worse, dill. Rosemary sounded nice, but my hunch told me that herbs with feminine names wouldn't appeal to her either. The goal here was a reunion that \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rS_wik3Rum8\">feels so good\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I abandoned Herb, but I kept Peaches with me. I thought about explaining where she came from (China, not Persia as her botanical name Prunus persica suggests) and how she came to whet our appetites with just a little shake of her sequined \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmNUvT0f44w\">groove thing\u003c/a>. I was surprised by both her strength and her depth-- much more depth than I think your Friday morning attention span can handle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So I decided to make Peach Melba instead.\u003cbr>\n\u003cobject width=\"425\" height=\"355\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/RypM4dHOb9M\">\u003cparam name=\"wmode\" value=\"transparent\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/RypM4dHOb9M\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" wmode=\"transparent\" width=\"425\" height=\"355\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's Nelly Melba in the clip above. Sadly, she's not making her peach dish. Instead, she's making a cake for the Duke and Duchess of York, later to be known as King George VI and Queen Elizabeth. I couldn't find any other footage of her, so this will have to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Born in what is now a suburb of Melbourne, Australia in 1861, Helen Porter Mitchell grew up to ditch her son-of-a-baronet husband and infant son, change her name to Nellie Melba (in honor of her hometown) and become one of the greatest-- or at least most famous-- sopranos in opera history. She has inspired not only the above mentioned dessert concoction, but toast, thereby making her the most eponymed woman in modern food history. Why such honors?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't her sweet disposition. Apart from abandoning her family, she was also known as a fickle, upstaging attention-grabber. The consummate diva, when asked to answer for her own bad behavior, the words \"I am Melba\" always passed from her lips. That, she believed, was enough explaination. She was also given to physically shoving other performers downstage if they got in her way. She was, not surprisingly, detested by her peers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She was, however, loved by her public. One man in particular-- Auguste Escoffier-- adored her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While appearing at Covent Garden-- her operatic home for more than twenty years-- and residing at the Savoy Hotel where Escoffier was master chef, she sent him (possibly as a thank you for previously naming the \u003ca href=\"http://www.melbatoast.com/\">toast\u003c/a> in her honor) a pair of tickets to see her in Richard Wagner's Lohengrin. Escoffier was so taken with her performance that he created another dish (if toast can indeed be called a dish) for her-- Peche au Cygne (Peach with Swan)-- peaches and vanilla ice cream served alongside a dramatic swan ice sculpture which mimicked the \u003ca href=\"http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/48/Lohengrin-kitsch.jpg/180px-Lohengrin-kitsch.jpg&imgrefurl=http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lohengrin_%28op%25C3%25A9ra%29&h=252&w=180&sz=19&hl=en&start=0&um=1&tbnid=eXzCqVT_FSb5DM:&tbnh=111&tbnw=79&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dlohengrin%26svnum%3D10%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN\">swan-shaped boat\u003c/a> featured in the opera. It was not, however, called Peach Melba. He renamed the dessert a few years later, after his move to the Ritz Carlton, adding both raspberry sauce and the Melba name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Legend has it that Melba was concerned that eating ice cream might constrict her gorgeous vocal chords, which is why I have chosen to serve the peaches below slightly warm. I know what it's like to piss off a diva, believe me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peach Melba:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ingredients:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 yellow peaches. Not too ripe. Freestones make life easier.\u003cbr>\n4 cups water. You may also poach the peaches in white wine. Frankly, I'd rather drink the wine\u003cbr>\nthan poach with it.\u003cbr>\n2 cups sugar\u003cbr>\n2 cups raspberries (fresh or frozen). Fresh raspberries are ideal for garnishing.\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon lemon juice\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons of sugar (taste the raspberries before adding sugar. I prefer the sauce to be tart,\u003cbr>\nlike la Melba herself)\u003cbr>\nVanilla ice cream. (I'm using vanilla sorbet because I have to lose 10 pounds by tomorrow for\u003cbr>\nmy reunion.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some sort of wafer cookies for garnish and a little crunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparation:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Slice a shallow \"x\" on the bottom of each peach to facilitate peeling. Blanch the peaches in the four cups of simmering water for about one minute. Or two. Is the skin starting to peel away along the edges of the little \"x\"? If so, take them out and place fruit in an ice bath to cool them. Let sit until well cooled, then excoriate. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add sugar to the simmering water, stirring lightly to dissolve. Return the denuded peaches to the simmering syrup. Turn off the heat and walk away for a while. Some swear by slicing the peaches before poaching them. I'm not a fan-- the edges of the peaches become too soft and feathery. Do so at your own risk. I like the center of the peach to have a little bit of give to it. Probably because I have teeth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the peaches are doing their thing, make the raspberry sauce. Place berries, 1/4 cup of sugar and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice into your cuisenart or what-have-you and pulse. I had some berries in the freezer and did not bother to wait until they thawed before I pureed them. I ended up making a sort of soft-serve sorbet as a result, which I let melt to become spoonable and saucy. Set aside and wash your blending apparatus immediately, if only to save yourself from flicking bits of seed stuck to the plastic with your fingernail later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the syrup has cooled to slightly warm, remove the peaches and slice in half, removing the stones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To Assemble:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In parfait glasses or whatever you have handy-- \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LS75NtlH3gI\">vessels with pestles, flagons with dragons\u003c/a>-- spoon a little raspberry sauce on the bottom. Of the glass, please. 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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/fried-chicken-788169.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/fried-chicken-787564.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every summer, I become mildly obsessed with frying chicken. I think of the beautiful childhood picnics I never went on. Laying out my hand-stitched quilt on a grassy patch of park free of dog feces, the well-timed automatic sprinklers offering me a refreshing spritz of mist at 15 minute intervals, drinking freshly squeezed lemonade and eating my Grammy's homemade fried chicken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How I miss Anaheim.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If a summertime picnic was to be had, it was generally done in my backyard on an old, frayed electric blanket (not plugged in). Just myself and my dogs, Cindy and Penny, who were not, as one might think, named for Cindy Williams and Penny Marshall. The coincidence of my childhood with Laverne and Shirley is simply bad timing. No sunscreen. We didn't feel the need for such things in those days. All I needed for a (temporary) deep, golden tan was the mayonnaise dripping from my bologna sandwich. I know what you're thinking. Eew. Well, you're right. My neighbor Kim and I once slathered Best Foods all over our bodies and then baked ourselves in the sun. We thought nothing of it until we began to smell. That was about the time Kim's mother found us and screamed something about us being walking salmonella and wasting her good mayonnaise. She then sprayed me down with a hose and sent me home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I digress.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The point I am feebly trying to make is that we were not, by nature, fried chicken eaters. The occasional Shake n' Bake assisted fried chicken was ingested, but without relish. Or mayonnaise, for that matter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think, though, that I had always wanted to be a fried chicken eater. Perhaps it was the trappings that went with its eating-- red checkered picnic cloths, watermelon, big, happy families. Maybe even a sack race. That seemed like a great summertime sort of lifestyle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My understanding of the dish didn't occur until well into adulthood. I had invited my cooking school partner Todd over for dinner one summer evening and thought fried chicken sounded like a good idea. As I took the chicken legs out of their plastic seal and began to place them directly into the flour mixture I'd made, Todd cocked is head like a confused dog and asked, \"What are you doing? That's not how my Mama makes fried chicken and my Mama knows fried chicken.\" His voice had suddenly developed the long, rounded vowels and deep base of an imaginary Kentucky Colonel-- decidedly un-New Jersey-like, the state in which Todd learned to speak. He explained that his mother was from West Virginia. Oh. We went to the market to purchase what he needed to make proper fried chicken, then I stood back and watched him work. Since the chicken needed to soak overnight, I think we went out for burritos that night instead. He came back the next day to fry it all up. I was floored and humbled by the results.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now I realize that everyone thinks they know what the perfect fried chicken should taste like. Well, you're wrong, plain and simple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thank you Todd, wherever you are. And thank you, Mama Webb, for showing me into the light.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mrs. Webb's Fried Chicken\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ingredients:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 pieces of chicken (I like thighs and drumsticks. Breasts just seem like a waste for frying)\u003cbr>\n1 quart of buttermilk (low fat will do just fine)\u003cbr>\na generous amount of salt\u003cbr>\n1 onion, sliced into rings or Lyonnaise style, if you like-- you're the one eating them\u003cbr>\n3 cups of all purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1 to 2 tablespoons cracked black pepper\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon cayenne pepper\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 quarts vegetable oil for frying (corn, safflower or whatever. Don't get fancy with the oil or people will laugh at you). Or, if you prefer, vegetable shortening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparation:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a large bowl, coat the chicken pieces liberally with salt. This not only salts the chicken, it draws out impurities, preventing unsightly blood spotting as you fry. Let the chicken sit in the salt for one hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Rinse the salt from the chicken. Rinse the bowl, too, for reuse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Return chicken to the bowl and add the sliced onion. Toss together and cover with buttermilk. Cover and set in refrigerator overnight or for one full day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. In a skillet, pour one inch of oil and heat to 325 degrees. Try not to let the oil get hotter or the chicken will burn. I use a thermometer to gauge the temperature. I suggest you do, too, since the oil temperature drops significantly when the cold chicken is added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. In another large bowl, combine flour, 2 tablespoons each of salt and pepper and the cayenne (truth be told, I've never bothered to measure the amount of this I use. Just suit yourself).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Remove all the chicken from the buttermilk-tainted bowl. I don't care where you put it as long as you put it somewhere clean. Shake excess buttermilk from a piece of chicken and roll it in the flour mixure. Dip the chicken back into the buttermilk and once more into the flour. A double crust is, for me anyway, de rigueur. Add the chicken to your pan as you go, skin side down. I find that adding the chicken gradually to the pan helps to maintain a more constant oil temperature. Just make sure you have some sort of system for knowing which pieces have been in the longest. I work clockwise. You do what you want.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Fry the chicken until golden brown, about 10 to 12 minutes per side. Make sure you've got some music appropriate for frying playing. This is going to take a little while.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. As each piece finishes frying, place on a rack to drain. Why waste paper towels?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>9. Now you have these wonderful onions to fry up. Proceed as with the chicken, battering and double dipping. How nice to have a side dish built right into the recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve hot or cold. Not the onion rings, of course. I like the chicken cold. For picnics, you know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serves 4 to 6 people.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/fried-chicken-788169.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/fried-chicken-787564.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every summer, I become mildly obsessed with frying chicken. I think of the beautiful childhood picnics I never went on. Laying out my hand-stitched quilt on a grassy patch of park free of dog feces, the well-timed automatic sprinklers offering me a refreshing spritz of mist at 15 minute intervals, drinking freshly squeezed lemonade and eating my Grammy's homemade fried chicken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How I miss Anaheim.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If a summertime picnic was to be had, it was generally done in my backyard on an old, frayed electric blanket (not plugged in). Just myself and my dogs, Cindy and Penny, who were not, as one might think, named for Cindy Williams and Penny Marshall. The coincidence of my childhood with Laverne and Shirley is simply bad timing. No sunscreen. We didn't feel the need for such things in those days. All I needed for a (temporary) deep, golden tan was the mayonnaise dripping from my bologna sandwich. I know what you're thinking. Eew. Well, you're right. My neighbor Kim and I once slathered Best Foods all over our bodies and then baked ourselves in the sun. We thought nothing of it until we began to smell. That was about the time Kim's mother found us and screamed something about us being walking salmonella and wasting her good mayonnaise. She then sprayed me down with a hose and sent me home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I digress.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The point I am feebly trying to make is that we were not, by nature, fried chicken eaters. The occasional Shake n' Bake assisted fried chicken was ingested, but without relish. Or mayonnaise, for that matter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think, though, that I had always wanted to be a fried chicken eater. Perhaps it was the trappings that went with its eating-- red checkered picnic cloths, watermelon, big, happy families. Maybe even a sack race. That seemed like a great summertime sort of lifestyle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My understanding of the dish didn't occur until well into adulthood. I had invited my cooking school partner Todd over for dinner one summer evening and thought fried chicken sounded like a good idea. As I took the chicken legs out of their plastic seal and began to place them directly into the flour mixture I'd made, Todd cocked is head like a confused dog and asked, \"What are you doing? That's not how my Mama makes fried chicken and my Mama knows fried chicken.\" His voice had suddenly developed the long, rounded vowels and deep base of an imaginary Kentucky Colonel-- decidedly un-New Jersey-like, the state in which Todd learned to speak. He explained that his mother was from West Virginia. Oh. We went to the market to purchase what he needed to make proper fried chicken, then I stood back and watched him work. Since the chicken needed to soak overnight, I think we went out for burritos that night instead. He came back the next day to fry it all up. I was floored and humbled by the results.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now I realize that everyone thinks they know what the perfect fried chicken should taste like. Well, you're wrong, plain and simple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thank you Todd, wherever you are. And thank you, Mama Webb, for showing me into the light.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mrs. Webb's Fried Chicken\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ingredients:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 pieces of chicken (I like thighs and drumsticks. Breasts just seem like a waste for frying)\u003cbr>\n1 quart of buttermilk (low fat will do just fine)\u003cbr>\na generous amount of salt\u003cbr>\n1 onion, sliced into rings or Lyonnaise style, if you like-- you're the one eating them\u003cbr>\n3 cups of all purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1 to 2 tablespoons cracked black pepper\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon cayenne pepper\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 quarts vegetable oil for frying (corn, safflower or whatever. Don't get fancy with the oil or people will laugh at you). Or, if you prefer, vegetable shortening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparation:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a large bowl, coat the chicken pieces liberally with salt. This not only salts the chicken, it draws out impurities, preventing unsightly blood spotting as you fry. Let the chicken sit in the salt for one hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Rinse the salt from the chicken. Rinse the bowl, too, for reuse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Return chicken to the bowl and add the sliced onion. Toss together and cover with buttermilk. Cover and set in refrigerator overnight or for one full day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. In a skillet, pour one inch of oil and heat to 325 degrees. Try not to let the oil get hotter or the chicken will burn. I use a thermometer to gauge the temperature. I suggest you do, too, since the oil temperature drops significantly when the cold chicken is added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. In another large bowl, combine flour, 2 tablespoons each of salt and pepper and the cayenne (truth be told, I've never bothered to measure the amount of this I use. Just suit yourself).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Remove all the chicken from the buttermilk-tainted bowl. I don't care where you put it as long as you put it somewhere clean. Shake excess buttermilk from a piece of chicken and roll it in the flour mixure. Dip the chicken back into the buttermilk and once more into the flour. A double crust is, for me anyway, de rigueur. Add the chicken to your pan as you go, skin side down. I find that adding the chicken gradually to the pan helps to maintain a more constant oil temperature. Just make sure you have some sort of system for knowing which pieces have been in the longest. I work clockwise. You do what you want.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Fry the chicken until golden brown, about 10 to 12 minutes per side. Make sure you've got some music appropriate for frying playing. This is going to take a little while.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. As each piece finishes frying, place on a rack to drain. Why waste paper towels?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>9. Now you have these wonderful onions to fry up. Proceed as with the chicken, battering and double dipping. How nice to have a side dish built right into the recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve hot or cold. Not the onion rings, of course. I like the chicken cold. For picnics, you know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serves 4 to 6 people.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_4412.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a few hours I will be attending \u003ca href=\"http://glutenfreegirl.blogspot.com/\">the wedding of a friend\u003c/a> who has Celiac Disease. Her wedding will be a gluten-free picnic and all the guests will bring something in this theme.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know very little, almost nothing about what I call \"alternative baking.\" Luckily for me \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/07/crisp-topping-all-year-round-fruit.jsp\">crisp topping is not really considered baking\u003c/a>. There are no eggs, no chemical leaveners, no attempt at expecting something to rise in the oven, no faerie-dust finesse needed in the mixer. I need to put a bunch of gluten free flours together with various sugars and spices and butter, and hopefully, voila! Crisp topping baked onto glorious Pacific Northwest \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/07/pdx-pie-dough-c.html\">berries galore\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Alternative Baking\" is tricky business. Little has been written about the properties of these new flours as they relate or translate to what we know of wheat flour. Although wheat has not always been a year-round crop, almost all American and European baked goods start with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.celiac.org/\">Celiac Disease\u003c/a> is not the only major food allergy gaining momentum today. With the prevalence of soy and corn and wheat in almost everything consume, whether we know it's there or not, we are developing allergies to ingredients we are eating far too much of. Baking, cooking and eating that is considered \"alternative\" today may well be considered normal/standard/conventional in a dozen years or less.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_4424.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Books like \u003ca href=\"http://astore.amazon.com/eggbeater-20/detail/1587612755/102-8936846-1066566\">Heidi Swanson's Super Natural Cooking\u003c/a> have helped me to understand new flours like Mesquite, Teff, Sorghum. In her beginning chapters, she gently and thoroughly explains the nutritional, taste and baking properties of many of these almost mysterious new things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, like all new ingredients, one must experiment until one gets what tastes good to them. Because crisp topping has no dangerous raw ingredients you can taste it, and adjust according to taste when it looks ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Follow instructions for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/07/crisp-topping-all-year-round-fruit.jsp\">crisp topping I made last year\u003c/a> near this time. It is exactly the same.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here is what I put together for today's gluten free challenge. I used a scale so I could check proportions better. And I wrote it all down as I went along, tasting a tiny bit of each flour first to check texture and flavor. All these flours are ground to a different consistency, so measuring them in cups would have been dangerous. Some are heavier than others. (All Purpose unbleached (white) wheat flour generally weighs 5-6 oz. per cup)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2.5 oz Teff flour\u003cbr>\n4 oz. Sorghum flour\u003cbr>\n5 oz. Sushi rice flour\u003cbr>\n1.25 oz. Tapioca flour\u003cbr>\n1.75 ounces Mesquite flour\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons Kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 teaspoons ground cardamon\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon cardamon seeds*\u003cbr>\n1.75 sugar\u003cbr>\n3 oz. raw sugar\u003cbr>\n8 oz. Dark brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1 pound unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n*optional\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of these flours can be found at \u003ca href=\"http://www.rainbowgrocery.org/\">Rainbow Grocery\u003c/a>. If you have a friend who is gluten-free, I hope you get the chance to make this for them!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_4412.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a few hours I will be attending \u003ca href=\"http://glutenfreegirl.blogspot.com/\">the wedding of a friend\u003c/a> who has Celiac Disease. Her wedding will be a gluten-free picnic and all the guests will bring something in this theme.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know very little, almost nothing about what I call \"alternative baking.\" Luckily for me \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/07/crisp-topping-all-year-round-fruit.jsp\">crisp topping is not really considered baking\u003c/a>. There are no eggs, no chemical leaveners, no attempt at expecting something to rise in the oven, no faerie-dust finesse needed in the mixer. I need to put a bunch of gluten free flours together with various sugars and spices and butter, and hopefully, voila! Crisp topping baked onto glorious Pacific Northwest \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/07/pdx-pie-dough-c.html\">berries galore\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Alternative Baking\" is tricky business. Little has been written about the properties of these new flours as they relate or translate to what we know of wheat flour. Although wheat has not always been a year-round crop, almost all American and European baked goods start with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.celiac.org/\">Celiac Disease\u003c/a> is not the only major food allergy gaining momentum today. With the prevalence of soy and corn and wheat in almost everything consume, whether we know it's there or not, we are developing allergies to ingredients we are eating far too much of. Baking, cooking and eating that is considered \"alternative\" today may well be considered normal/standard/conventional in a dozen years or less.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_4424.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Books like \u003ca href=\"http://astore.amazon.com/eggbeater-20/detail/1587612755/102-8936846-1066566\">Heidi Swanson's Super Natural Cooking\u003c/a> have helped me to understand new flours like Mesquite, Teff, Sorghum. In her beginning chapters, she gently and thoroughly explains the nutritional, taste and baking properties of many of these almost mysterious new things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, like all new ingredients, one must experiment until one gets what tastes good to them. Because crisp topping has no dangerous raw ingredients you can taste it, and adjust according to taste when it looks ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Follow instructions for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/07/crisp-topping-all-year-round-fruit.jsp\">crisp topping I made last year\u003c/a> near this time. It is exactly the same.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here is what I put together for today's gluten free challenge. I used a scale so I could check proportions better. And I wrote it all down as I went along, tasting a tiny bit of each flour first to check texture and flavor. All these flours are ground to a different consistency, so measuring them in cups would have been dangerous. Some are heavier than others. (All Purpose unbleached (white) wheat flour generally weighs 5-6 oz. per cup)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2.5 oz Teff flour\u003cbr>\n4 oz. Sorghum flour\u003cbr>\n5 oz. Sushi rice flour\u003cbr>\n1.25 oz. Tapioca flour\u003cbr>\n1.75 ounces Mesquite flour\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons Kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 teaspoons ground cardamon\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon cardamon seeds*\u003cbr>\n1.75 sugar\u003cbr>\n3 oz. raw sugar\u003cbr>\n8 oz. Dark brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1 pound unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n*optional\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of these flours can be found at \u003ca href=\"http://www.rainbowgrocery.org/\">Rainbow Grocery\u003c/a>. If you have a friend who is gluten-free, I hope you get the chance to make this for them!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>People have been ranting and raving ad nauseum about how great stone fruit season is shaping up this year, beginning with cherries. Far too many exclamation marks have been typed, causing an unfortunate cramp in the left hand in the most rabid of us, blogging their praises. I prefer to save my left hand for other, more important activities...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If your mind has made its way back from the gutter now, that's wonderful. Thanks, but I was referring to activities like practicing good penmanship and chopping down cherry trees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm afraid I was not among those singing gospel-strength love songs to the cherry this season. In fact, I think I've actually shrugged my shoulders and rolled my eyes with an \"Oh really?\" dropping from my lips in response to their purported greatness. It's not because I'm a cherry hater. Quite the contrary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am merely a jealous lover. If everyone gorged themselves on cherries this season, would there be enough left over for me? An act of self preservation, plain and simple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How fascinating that I should mention preservation and simple in the same sentence, since they are the essence of my post today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Cherries-702641.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Cherries-701885.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In May and June, if one looked in my refrigerator, one would find among the cheeses, mustard, beer and long-forgotten yogurts, a bag of cherries. Sometimes two because I'd forget that I had purchased a bagful the previous day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cherries are for eating out of hand, mostly. If I'm feeling ambitious, I'll pit and stew some with sugar, water and a little vanilla extract for pouring over my ice cream. Or make clafoutis, a dish my friend Karen refers to as a \"no-brainer.\" Indeed it is and, therefore, the perfect dessert for me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the end of June, I am sick of cherries. Or sick from them. I am, by then, ready for some summer loving. My attention wanders. A bit of peach fuzz catches my eye and my taste for cherries sours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until next year when the fever hits me again, sometime around April.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year, I celebrated Easter with some old friends from cooking school. Doralice, our organizer and chiefest food pimp, brought with her a jar of her vodka cherries. I thought to myself, \"That's just about the smartest thing I've ever heard of: fruit and alcohol.\" I made a mental note to do the same this year. I'm glad I didn't forget.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you are anything like me and have no patience whatsoever for jam-making, preserving fruit in alcohol is just the ticket-- or tonic. I may be tired of them now, but come winter, I'll be glad I have them to remind me of warmer days. In fact, they will inspire much warmer nights since I will use them to garnish Manhattans, my cold weather cocktail of choice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's the recipe. I hope it doesn't prove too difficult.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Brandied Cherries:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two important things you will need for this recipe:\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>a 4 quart glass or ceramic container\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>a lot of patience\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup simple syrup\u003cbr>\n6 cups dark sweet fresh cherries (most would suggest pitting, I disagree for aesthetic reasons)\u003cbr>\n2 cups vodka\u003cbr>\n2 cups brandy\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place cherries, simple syrup, brandy and vodka in container. Cap tightly or cover snugly with plastic wrap. Store in a cool dark place for three weeks. If you tell me there is no such place in your home you are kidding no one but yourself. Swirl the mixture around in the container every three days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After three weeks, I imagine (I say imagine since I've never done this before) I will taste the liquid (my container comes with a very convenient spigot at the bottom) and adjust the sweetness should I choose to do so with more simple syrup, or maybe add a vanilla bean or some whole allspice or whatever strikes me as a good idea at the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then I'll let them sit some more. That is, until it turns cold and I start craving a Manhattan.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>People have been ranting and raving ad nauseum about how great stone fruit season is shaping up this year, beginning with cherries. Far too many exclamation marks have been typed, causing an unfortunate cramp in the left hand in the most rabid of us, blogging their praises. I prefer to save my left hand for other, more important activities...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If your mind has made its way back from the gutter now, that's wonderful. Thanks, but I was referring to activities like practicing good penmanship and chopping down cherry trees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm afraid I was not among those singing gospel-strength love songs to the cherry this season. In fact, I think I've actually shrugged my shoulders and rolled my eyes with an \"Oh really?\" dropping from my lips in response to their purported greatness. It's not because I'm a cherry hater. Quite the contrary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am merely a jealous lover. If everyone gorged themselves on cherries this season, would there be enough left over for me? An act of self preservation, plain and simple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How fascinating that I should mention preservation and simple in the same sentence, since they are the essence of my post today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Cherries-702641.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Cherries-701885.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In May and June, if one looked in my refrigerator, one would find among the cheeses, mustard, beer and long-forgotten yogurts, a bag of cherries. Sometimes two because I'd forget that I had purchased a bagful the previous day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cherries are for eating out of hand, mostly. If I'm feeling ambitious, I'll pit and stew some with sugar, water and a little vanilla extract for pouring over my ice cream. Or make clafoutis, a dish my friend Karen refers to as a \"no-brainer.\" Indeed it is and, therefore, the perfect dessert for me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the end of June, I am sick of cherries. Or sick from them. I am, by then, ready for some summer loving. My attention wanders. A bit of peach fuzz catches my eye and my taste for cherries sours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until next year when the fever hits me again, sometime around April.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year, I celebrated Easter with some old friends from cooking school. Doralice, our organizer and chiefest food pimp, brought with her a jar of her vodka cherries. I thought to myself, \"That's just about the smartest thing I've ever heard of: fruit and alcohol.\" I made a mental note to do the same this year. I'm glad I didn't forget.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you are anything like me and have no patience whatsoever for jam-making, preserving fruit in alcohol is just the ticket-- or tonic. I may be tired of them now, but come winter, I'll be glad I have them to remind me of warmer days. In fact, they will inspire much warmer nights since I will use them to garnish Manhattans, my cold weather cocktail of choice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's the recipe. I hope it doesn't prove too difficult.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Brandied Cherries:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two important things you will need for this recipe:\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>a 4 quart glass or ceramic container\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>a lot of patience\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup simple syrup\u003cbr>\n6 cups dark sweet fresh cherries (most would suggest pitting, I disagree for aesthetic reasons)\u003cbr>\n2 cups vodka\u003cbr>\n2 cups brandy\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place cherries, simple syrup, brandy and vodka in container. Cap tightly or cover snugly with plastic wrap. Store in a cool dark place for three weeks. If you tell me there is no such place in your home you are kidding no one but yourself. Swirl the mixture around in the container every three days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After three weeks, I imagine (I say imagine since I've never done this before) I will taste the liquid (my container comes with a very convenient spigot at the bottom) and adjust the sweetness should I choose to do so with more simple syrup, or maybe add a vanilla bean or some whole allspice or whatever strikes me as a good idea at the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then I'll let them sit some more. That is, until it turns cold and I start craving a Manhattan.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://homepage.mac.com/amybsherman/images/foodandnews.png\">\u003cbr>Which newspaper food sections do you read? I subscribe to the San Francisco Chronicle, so I always check out that food section, but I also like to peruse several others online. Here's what you'll find this week. \u003cbr>Note: Each require registration, which is free.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/pages/dining/index.html\">The New York Times\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>My first stop on Wednesday is usually the New York Times. There is often some provocative article there. This week it's about a chef suing over intellectual property. Apparently a past sous chef at one restaurant has opened a restaurant that may have copied everything from the interior style to the recipes of his past employer. \u003cbr>This week there are also articles about the sexy look of women chef on television, a report on Thai fruits that are no longer banned in America and The Minimalist column by Mark Bittman. In the current column he takes on tuna, explaining the differences between bluefin and yellowfin and sharing cooking techniques and a recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.latimes.com/features/food/?track=leftnav-food\">The Los Angeles Times\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>This week there is an article about the chocolatiers of Barcelona that caught my eye and brought back memories of my trip and chocolate excursions just a year ago. The incomparable Russ Parsons writes about this years crop of stone fruit. He also includes a recipe for cobbler, which sounds more like a crumble to me. There are also some paella recipes that make me think I need to run out and buy a paella pan, like today. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/artsandliving/foodanddining/?sub=AR\">The Washington Post\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>An article on how Pinot Noir pairs with salmon is timely now that wild salmon is showing up in markets. Also worth checking out are the recipes from the Smithsonian Folklife Festival for Brunswick Stew, Buttermilk Pancakes and Yunnan Style Cold Rice Noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have a favorite food section, let me know in the comments section.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://homepage.mac.com/amybsherman/images/foodandnews.png\">\u003cbr>Which newspaper food sections do you read? I subscribe to the San Francisco Chronicle, so I always check out that food section, but I also like to peruse several others online. Here's what you'll find this week. \u003cbr>Note: Each require registration, which is free.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/pages/dining/index.html\">The New York Times\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>My first stop on Wednesday is usually the New York Times. There is often some provocative article there. This week it's about a chef suing over intellectual property. Apparently a past sous chef at one restaurant has opened a restaurant that may have copied everything from the interior style to the recipes of his past employer. \u003cbr>This week there are also articles about the sexy look of women chef on television, a report on Thai fruits that are no longer banned in America and The Minimalist column by Mark Bittman. In the current column he takes on tuna, explaining the differences between bluefin and yellowfin and sharing cooking techniques and a recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.latimes.com/features/food/?track=leftnav-food\">The Los Angeles Times\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>This week there is an article about the chocolatiers of Barcelona that caught my eye and brought back memories of my trip and chocolate excursions just a year ago. The incomparable Russ Parsons writes about this years crop of stone fruit. He also includes a recipe for cobbler, which sounds more like a crumble to me. There are also some paella recipes that make me think I need to run out and buy a paella pan, like today. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/artsandliving/foodanddining/?sub=AR\">The Washington Post\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>An article on how Pinot Noir pairs with salmon is timely now that wild salmon is showing up in markets. Also worth checking out are the recipes from the Smithsonian Folklife Festival for Brunswick Stew, Buttermilk Pancakes and Yunnan Style Cold Rice Noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have a favorite food section, let me know in the comments section.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
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"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
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"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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"rss": "https://www.cityarts.net/feed/"
}
},
"closealltabs": {
"id": "closealltabs",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/closealltabs",
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"order": 1
},
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"id": "code-switch-life-kit",
"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 9
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
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},
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"id": "fresh-air",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"hidden-brain": {
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"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
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"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"order": 15
},
"link": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/2p3Fifq96nw9BPcmFdIq0o?si=39209f7b25774f38",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
"meta": {
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"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
"meta": {
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},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
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"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
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"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 11
},
"link": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"subscribe": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw",
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},
"on-the-media": {
"id": "on-the-media",
"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm-3pm, MON 12am-1am",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/onTheMedia.png",
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"meta": {
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"source": "wnyc"
},
"link": "/radio/program/on-the-media",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/on-the-media/id73330715?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/On-the-Media-p69/",
"rss": "http://feeds.wnyc.org/onthemedia"
}
},
"pbs-newshour": {
"id": "pbs-newshour",
"title": "PBS NewsHour",
"info": "Analysis, background reports and updates from the PBS NewsHour putting today's news in context.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/",
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"source": "pbs"
},
"link": "/radio/program/pbs-newshour",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/pbs-newshour-full-show/id394432287?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/",
"rss": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/feeds/rss/podcasts/show"
}
},
"perspectives": {
"id": "perspectives",
"title": "Perspectives",
"tagline": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991",
"info": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/Perspectives_Tile_Final.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/perspectives/",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 14
},
"link": "/perspectives",
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