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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61140\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/dudafarms_wide-edb14add9426c7c2b1e2bd9c4d2d3c74f801ab7f-s40.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/dudafarms_wide-edb14add9426c7c2b1e2bd9c4d2d3c74f801ab7f-s40.jpg\" alt=\"American farms like this iceberg lettuce field owned by Duda Farm Fresh Foods outside Salinas, Calif., are facing a dwindling supply of farmworkers from rural Mexico. Photo: Kirk Siegler/NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"629\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61140\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">American farms like this iceberg lettuce field owned by Duda Farm Fresh Foods outside Salinas, Calif., are facing a dwindling supply of farmworkers from rural Mexico. Photo: Kirk Siegler/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://kunc.org/people/kirk-siegler\">Kirk Siegler\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/30/180053057/why-an-immigration-deal-wont-solve-the-farmworker-shortage\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (04/30/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Salinas Valley in Northern California grows about 80 percent of the country's lettuce, and it takes a lot of people to pick and pack it. In a field owned by \u003ca href=\"http://www.dudafresh.com/\">Duda Farm Fresh Foods\u003c/a>, a dozen \u003cem>lechugueros, \u003c/em>or lettuce pickers, are bent at the waist, cutting heads of iceberg lettuce. They work frantically to stay in front of a line of 12 more packers, who seal them with tape and toss them onto a conveyor belt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's a lot more going on here than meets the eye,\" says Sammy Duda, the company's vice president. \"The way the lettuce is trimmed is much more difficult to do if you don't trim it properly.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duda hires 1,000 or more field workers every harvest, paying them about $12 an hour. Many don't have papers, but Duda says he has no other choice. Hardly any Americans apply for these jobs, he says, and most who do, don't stay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This has always been an immigrant job, whether it's, like I say, back from the Dust Bowl group,\" Duda says. \"This is not a new phenomenon.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Labor shortages aren't a new phenomenon, either, in this valley \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wnet/need-to-know/culture/slideshow-steinbecks-salinas-valley/16441/#1\">made famous\u003c/a> by John Steinbeck. But things have gotten worse lately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of the migrant workers who came from rural Mexico are getting too old for this back-breaking work, and their kids don't want to do it at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's hard, because I've been working in the fields for like 12 years now,\" says 29-year-old Marco Lara.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says many of his extended family and friends back in his native Mexican state of Michoacan don't want to cross the border right now. Hiring a \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/04/19/150973748/inside-the-hidden-world-of-immigrant-smuggling\">coyote\u003c/a>\" costs a lot more than it once did, and the border is a lot more dangerous.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61139\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/thinningharvester-2ce6738759e05f6f05be97c7fd99d50bc5064990-s3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/thinningharvester-2ce6738759e05f6f05be97c7fd99d50bc5064990-s3.jpg\" alt=\"Some people hope that machines like this automated spinach harvester will help farmers deal will less immigrant labor. Photo: Kirk Siegler/NPR\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61139\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Some people hope that machines like this automated spinach harvester will help farmers deal will less immigrant labor. Photo: Kirk Siegler/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"There's people that just don't want to risk coming here,\" Lara says. \"I [lost] two friends on the border three years ago.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duda says the proposed immigration overhaul bill might solve some of these problems. For one, it would give thousands of workers a path to legal residency and make it easier for others to enter the U.S. But he says those things are probably just stopgap fixes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It'll help us in the short term. The long term? Remains to be seen,\" Duda says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since the late 1990s, there has been a slow but steady decline in the number of rural Mexicans migrating north. Agriculture economist \u003ca href=\"http://agecon.ucdavis.edu/people/faculty/j.%20edward-taylor/\">Ed Taylor\u003c/a> at the University of California, Davis, says that decline has little to do with U.S. immigration policy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taylor's research suggests that declining birth rates in rural Mexico, where the economy has also improved in recent years, is the reason why fewer migrants are coming to the U.S. And since farms in Mexico have also expanded to meet the year-round produce demands north of the border, why risk going north?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Many [American] farmers also have this sense that, if Washington can just get its house in order and pass immigration reform, their problems will be over, and that isn't what our research is showing,\" Taylor says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Farms here are going to have to learn how to do more with less immigrant labor, Taylor says. That means switching to less labor-intensive crops, or mechanization.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Salinas Valley town of Gonzales, Frank Maconachy with the company \u003ca href=\"http://www.ramsayhighlander.com/about/index.htm\">Ramsay Highlander\u003c/a> may have an answer for farmers worried about big labor shortages.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The labor resource is dwindling, so we needed to develop a machine that could mechanically cut ... efficiently, effectively, safely and get the crop to market competitively,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That machine is an automatic spinach harvester. His company custom builds them to suit individual farmers' needs — different blades and equipment to pick celery, for example. But the main point is it reduces the need for workers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One operator can now harvest 12- to 15,000 pounds of spinach or baby leaf in an hour, where typically a crew of 30 people would be on their hands and knees cutting this with knives and would do half of that volume at best,\" Maconachy says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But efficiency comes with a price: $250,000 for one of these machines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sammy Duda isn't quite ready to make that kind of investment. Machines can't do everything, he says. \"It's very difficult to duplicate the eyes and the feel of a worker when it comes to maturity and quality of the crop.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even as he focuses on the current immigration bill and whether it will help him get enough workers to get through these next few years, he knows his business is going to have to change. Technology once radically changed this valley when refrigeration allowed iceberg lettuce to be shipped all over the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This particular valley was founded on innovation,\" he says. \"There's a lot of bright people that have their radar going, and so as labor issues change, we adapt or we die.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/30/180053057/why-an-immigration-deal-wont-solve-the-farmworker-shortage\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Many farmers are cheering government proposals to give thousands of seasonal farmworkers a path to legal status. But even if the bill passes, it won't solve the long-term trend of fewer migrants coming north to work on U.S. farms. Farmers will instead have to learn how to do more with less immigrant labor.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61140\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/dudafarms_wide-edb14add9426c7c2b1e2bd9c4d2d3c74f801ab7f-s40.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/dudafarms_wide-edb14add9426c7c2b1e2bd9c4d2d3c74f801ab7f-s40.jpg\" alt=\"American farms like this iceberg lettuce field owned by Duda Farm Fresh Foods outside Salinas, Calif., are facing a dwindling supply of farmworkers from rural Mexico. Photo: Kirk Siegler/NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"629\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61140\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">American farms like this iceberg lettuce field owned by Duda Farm Fresh Foods outside Salinas, Calif., are facing a dwindling supply of farmworkers from rural Mexico. Photo: Kirk Siegler/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://kunc.org/people/kirk-siegler\">Kirk Siegler\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/30/180053057/why-an-immigration-deal-wont-solve-the-farmworker-shortage\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (04/30/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Salinas Valley in Northern California grows about 80 percent of the country's lettuce, and it takes a lot of people to pick and pack it. In a field owned by \u003ca href=\"http://www.dudafresh.com/\">Duda Farm Fresh Foods\u003c/a>, a dozen \u003cem>lechugueros, \u003c/em>or lettuce pickers, are bent at the waist, cutting heads of iceberg lettuce. They work frantically to stay in front of a line of 12 more packers, who seal them with tape and toss them onto a conveyor belt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's a lot more going on here than meets the eye,\" says Sammy Duda, the company's vice president. \"The way the lettuce is trimmed is much more difficult to do if you don't trim it properly.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duda hires 1,000 or more field workers every harvest, paying them about $12 an hour. Many don't have papers, but Duda says he has no other choice. Hardly any Americans apply for these jobs, he says, and most who do, don't stay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This has always been an immigrant job, whether it's, like I say, back from the Dust Bowl group,\" Duda says. \"This is not a new phenomenon.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Labor shortages aren't a new phenomenon, either, in this valley \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wnet/need-to-know/culture/slideshow-steinbecks-salinas-valley/16441/#1\">made famous\u003c/a> by John Steinbeck. But things have gotten worse lately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of the migrant workers who came from rural Mexico are getting too old for this back-breaking work, and their kids don't want to do it at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's hard, because I've been working in the fields for like 12 years now,\" says 29-year-old Marco Lara.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says many of his extended family and friends back in his native Mexican state of Michoacan don't want to cross the border right now. Hiring a \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/04/19/150973748/inside-the-hidden-world-of-immigrant-smuggling\">coyote\u003c/a>\" costs a lot more than it once did, and the border is a lot more dangerous.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61139\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/thinningharvester-2ce6738759e05f6f05be97c7fd99d50bc5064990-s3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/thinningharvester-2ce6738759e05f6f05be97c7fd99d50bc5064990-s3.jpg\" alt=\"Some people hope that machines like this automated spinach harvester will help farmers deal will less immigrant labor. Photo: Kirk Siegler/NPR\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61139\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Some people hope that machines like this automated spinach harvester will help farmers deal will less immigrant labor. Photo: Kirk Siegler/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"There's people that just don't want to risk coming here,\" Lara says. \"I [lost] two friends on the border three years ago.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duda says the proposed immigration overhaul bill might solve some of these problems. For one, it would give thousands of workers a path to legal residency and make it easier for others to enter the U.S. But he says those things are probably just stopgap fixes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It'll help us in the short term. The long term? Remains to be seen,\" Duda says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since the late 1990s, there has been a slow but steady decline in the number of rural Mexicans migrating north. Agriculture economist \u003ca href=\"http://agecon.ucdavis.edu/people/faculty/j.%20edward-taylor/\">Ed Taylor\u003c/a> at the University of California, Davis, says that decline has little to do with U.S. immigration policy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taylor's research suggests that declining birth rates in rural Mexico, where the economy has also improved in recent years, is the reason why fewer migrants are coming to the U.S. And since farms in Mexico have also expanded to meet the year-round produce demands north of the border, why risk going north?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Many [American] farmers also have this sense that, if Washington can just get its house in order and pass immigration reform, their problems will be over, and that isn't what our research is showing,\" Taylor says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Farms here are going to have to learn how to do more with less immigrant labor, Taylor says. That means switching to less labor-intensive crops, or mechanization.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Salinas Valley town of Gonzales, Frank Maconachy with the company \u003ca href=\"http://www.ramsayhighlander.com/about/index.htm\">Ramsay Highlander\u003c/a> may have an answer for farmers worried about big labor shortages.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The labor resource is dwindling, so we needed to develop a machine that could mechanically cut ... efficiently, effectively, safely and get the crop to market competitively,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That machine is an automatic spinach harvester. His company custom builds them to suit individual farmers' needs — different blades and equipment to pick celery, for example. But the main point is it reduces the need for workers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One operator can now harvest 12- to 15,000 pounds of spinach or baby leaf in an hour, where typically a crew of 30 people would be on their hands and knees cutting this with knives and would do half of that volume at best,\" Maconachy says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But efficiency comes with a price: $250,000 for one of these machines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sammy Duda isn't quite ready to make that kind of investment. Machines can't do everything, he says. \"It's very difficult to duplicate the eyes and the feel of a worker when it comes to maturity and quality of the crop.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even as he focuses on the current immigration bill and whether it will help him get enough workers to get through these next few years, he knows his business is going to have to change. Technology once radically changed this valley when refrigeration allowed iceberg lettuce to be shipped all over the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This particular valley was founded on innovation,\" he says. \"There's a lot of bright people that have their radar going, and so as labor issues change, we adapt or we die.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/30/180053057/why-an-immigration-deal-wont-solve-the-farmworker-shortage\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "So Jerry Seinfeld Called Us To Talk About Coffee",
"title": "So Jerry Seinfeld Called Us To Talk About Coffee",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61085\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seinfeld_coffee3_wide-bff17fcca284ab813afd85501c08fa9f14cb5689-s40.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seinfeld_coffee3_wide-bff17fcca284ab813afd85501c08fa9f14cb5689-s40.jpg\" alt='In an episode of <em>Comedians In Cars Getting Coffee</em> called \"Larry Eats A Pancake,\" Jerry Seinfeld has coffee with Larry David. Photo: YouTube' width=\"1120\" height=\"630\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61085\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In an episode of \u003cem>Comedians In Cars Getting Coffee\u003c/em> called \"Larry Eats A Pancake,\" Jerry Seinfeld has coffee with Larry David. Photo: YouTube\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/26/179049781/so-jerry-seinfeld-called-us-to-talk-about-coffee\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/04/20130426_me_19.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/26/179049781/so-jerry-seinfeld-called-us-to-talk-about-coffee\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (04/26/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>According to Jerry Seinfeld's publicist, the comedian was listening to \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/archives/archive.php?thingId=178007479\">Coffee Week\u003c/a>\u003cem> on \u003c/em>Morning Edition\u003cem> and decided he had something to add. So he called up host Steve Inskeep. Here's what he shared, edited for brevity.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On his new coffee habit\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I just started. All those years on the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=4183387\">TV series\u003c/a>, whenever we would have a scene in the coffee shop, they would say, 'What do you want to drink?' and I would say, 'I don't care,' so they would just give me a cup of black coffee and I would just touch it. I never liked it and I didn't understand it and I used to do a lot of stuff in my standup set in the '80s and '90s about how I don't 'get' coffee. I don't understand why everyone's so obsessed with this drink. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And then something happened about five years ago. I started touring a lot, and we would have these great big, fun breakfasts in the hotel and [coffee] just seemed to go really well with the French toast — the sugar and the milk — and it just seemed like the perfect French toast companion.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On coffee meetings\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I got married and I had a family and my entire day was not free for social interaction. And eating is annoying and difficult to arrange, [and it's] hard to choose places. And meeting someone for coffee suddenly seemed like a wonderful, compact, accessible and portable social interaction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You don't even really need a place. But you feel like you're doing something. That is what coffee is. And that is one of the geniuses of the new coffee culture.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On coffee as a morning toy\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I don't know what the top does. I don't know what the plastic stick does. I don't even really know what the sleeve does. But I want that little kit because this is my morning toy. And then — and this is gonna sound very naive, I really am very naive in a lot of areas — I didn't realize that caffeine has quite an effect on you. And that got to be another toy. So it's this big fun toy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On caffeine\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's legal. It's not expensive. And they have a whole world for you with all their little words. It's just something to do. My theory is 98 percent of all human endeavor is killing time. This is a great way to do it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On coffee rituals\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I do a little thing about the way people shake the sweetener packet. You know, like they're all excited. I want to get all the granules down to one end. I love all these rituals.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the best place for coffee\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I don't give a damn. That's the beauty of it. It doesn't matter. That's the nearest place. I'll meet you there. And you know what? Coffee's all good. It's all good. As long as it's fresh, it's good. And it's always fresh in New York. ... I think we're a more productive society as a result.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On which coffee to order\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I like it pretty basic. I've just started this espresso thing, but it's just milk and sugar. That's it. I don't want to talk that long to the guy or gal.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On instant coffee\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I have that at my mother's in Florida at her condo. When she says, 'Do you want coffee?' And she had a — I think it was a Cuban packet — and I started rolling my eyes. 'Oh my God that's the coffee you have?' And she boils the water and opens the packet and puts it in there and you know what? It was pretty good.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the secret to really enjoying coffee\u003cbr>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You want the sophistication of the snob without the pretension of the snob. So you want to know what's going on, but don't be a fussbudget about it. You know what I mean?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When you go into Three Guys Coffeeshop on Columbus, don't complain that it's not as good as Gimme Coffee or Mudd or one of these places. Appreciate that for what that is. Know the difference, but don't be a pain in the ass about it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On why coffee is so central to our culture\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think the answer is we all need a little help, and the coffee's a little help with everything — social, energy, don't know what to do next, don't know how to start my day, don't know how to get through this afternoon, don't know how to stay alert. We want to do a lot of stuff; we're not in great shape. We didn't get a good night's sleep. We're a little depressed. Coffee solves all these problems in one delightful little cup.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAKV57mQuls]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On his show \u003cem>Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I really wove the idea of this \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/07/18/156966558/seinfeld-hits-the-web-still-talking-about-nothing\">little show\u003c/a> that I'm doing on the Internet around this concept. I saw it as this swirling social hub of activity that was so handy and useful. That whole description of why it's great to meet someone for a cup of coffee — the ease, the simplicity, the compactness. And that it also obviously gets people talking. You have coffee and for some reason it makes you talk a lot. And I thought this is an interesting thing to try and capture. So that was my ambition of this little experiment — let me see if I can capture that energy of two people that are already quite voluble — they're comedians — and then you give them coffee — you caffeinate them, and then maybe that's a show.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"After a lifetime in formal show business, I kind of had a theory that if you remove the structures of show business — the studio, the makeup, the microphone, the can we get you something to drink, the chair that you're screwed into — if you remove that, you'll get a different tone, a different dialogue. I wanted to get the dialogue that when you're standing on the sidewalk and you're kicking the curb and you're with a friend and neither of you really wants to go home and you're just standing there talking. That conversation, I thought, that's a 'talk show' that I'd like to try and see if I can get that in a bottle.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61085\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seinfeld_coffee3_wide-bff17fcca284ab813afd85501c08fa9f14cb5689-s40.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/seinfeld_coffee3_wide-bff17fcca284ab813afd85501c08fa9f14cb5689-s40.jpg\" alt='In an episode of <em>Comedians In Cars Getting Coffee</em> called \"Larry Eats A Pancake,\" Jerry Seinfeld has coffee with Larry David. Photo: YouTube' width=\"1120\" height=\"630\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61085\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In an episode of \u003cem>Comedians In Cars Getting Coffee\u003c/em> called \"Larry Eats A Pancake,\" Jerry Seinfeld has coffee with Larry David. Photo: YouTube\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/26/179049781/so-jerry-seinfeld-called-us-to-talk-about-coffee\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/26/179049781/so-jerry-seinfeld-called-us-to-talk-about-coffee\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (04/26/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>According to Jerry Seinfeld's publicist, the comedian was listening to \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/archives/archive.php?thingId=178007479\">Coffee Week\u003c/a>\u003cem> on \u003c/em>Morning Edition\u003cem> and decided he had something to add. So he called up host Steve Inskeep. Here's what he shared, edited for brevity.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On his new coffee habit\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I just started. All those years on the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=4183387\">TV series\u003c/a>, whenever we would have a scene in the coffee shop, they would say, 'What do you want to drink?' and I would say, 'I don't care,' so they would just give me a cup of black coffee and I would just touch it. I never liked it and I didn't understand it and I used to do a lot of stuff in my standup set in the '80s and '90s about how I don't 'get' coffee. I don't understand why everyone's so obsessed with this drink. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And then something happened about five years ago. I started touring a lot, and we would have these great big, fun breakfasts in the hotel and [coffee] just seemed to go really well with the French toast — the sugar and the milk — and it just seemed like the perfect French toast companion.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On coffee meetings\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I got married and I had a family and my entire day was not free for social interaction. And eating is annoying and difficult to arrange, [and it's] hard to choose places. And meeting someone for coffee suddenly seemed like a wonderful, compact, accessible and portable social interaction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You don't even really need a place. But you feel like you're doing something. That is what coffee is. And that is one of the geniuses of the new coffee culture.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On coffee as a morning toy\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I don't know what the top does. I don't know what the plastic stick does. I don't even really know what the sleeve does. But I want that little kit because this is my morning toy. And then — and this is gonna sound very naive, I really am very naive in a lot of areas — I didn't realize that caffeine has quite an effect on you. And that got to be another toy. So it's this big fun toy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On caffeine\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's legal. It's not expensive. And they have a whole world for you with all their little words. It's just something to do. My theory is 98 percent of all human endeavor is killing time. This is a great way to do it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On coffee rituals\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I do a little thing about the way people shake the sweetener packet. You know, like they're all excited. I want to get all the granules down to one end. I love all these rituals.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the best place for coffee\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I don't give a damn. That's the beauty of it. It doesn't matter. That's the nearest place. I'll meet you there. And you know what? Coffee's all good. It's all good. As long as it's fresh, it's good. And it's always fresh in New York. ... I think we're a more productive society as a result.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On which coffee to order\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I like it pretty basic. I've just started this espresso thing, but it's just milk and sugar. That's it. I don't want to talk that long to the guy or gal.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On instant coffee\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I have that at my mother's in Florida at her condo. When she says, 'Do you want coffee?' And she had a — I think it was a Cuban packet — and I started rolling my eyes. 'Oh my God that's the coffee you have?' And she boils the water and opens the packet and puts it in there and you know what? It was pretty good.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the secret to really enjoying coffee\u003cbr>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You want the sophistication of the snob without the pretension of the snob. So you want to know what's going on, but don't be a fussbudget about it. You know what I mean?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When you go into Three Guys Coffeeshop on Columbus, don't complain that it's not as good as Gimme Coffee or Mudd or one of these places. Appreciate that for what that is. Know the difference, but don't be a pain in the ass about it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On why coffee is so central to our culture\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think the answer is we all need a little help, and the coffee's a little help with everything — social, energy, don't know what to do next, don't know how to start my day, don't know how to get through this afternoon, don't know how to stay alert. We want to do a lot of stuff; we're not in great shape. We didn't get a good night's sleep. We're a little depressed. Coffee solves all these problems in one delightful little cup.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/uAKV57mQuls'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/uAKV57mQuls'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On his show \u003cem>Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I really wove the idea of this \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/07/18/156966558/seinfeld-hits-the-web-still-talking-about-nothing\">little show\u003c/a> that I'm doing on the Internet around this concept. I saw it as this swirling social hub of activity that was so handy and useful. That whole description of why it's great to meet someone for a cup of coffee — the ease, the simplicity, the compactness. And that it also obviously gets people talking. You have coffee and for some reason it makes you talk a lot. And I thought this is an interesting thing to try and capture. So that was my ambition of this little experiment — let me see if I can capture that energy of two people that are already quite voluble — they're comedians — and then you give them coffee — you caffeinate them, and then maybe that's a show.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"After a lifetime in formal show business, I kind of had a theory that if you remove the structures of show business — the studio, the makeup, the microphone, the can we get you something to drink, the chair that you're screwed into — if you remove that, you'll get a different tone, a different dialogue. 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"disqusTitle": "Step Aside, Gents. Witness The Rise Of Women In Coffee",
"title": "Step Aside, Gents. Witness The Rise Of Women In Coffee",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60807\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/womencoffee.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/womencoffee.jpg\" alt=\"Three women in coffee leading the way: Stephanie Backus of Portland Roasting, coffee farmer Miguelina Villatoro of Guatemala, and coffee exporter/processor Loyreth Sosa. Here they discuss coffee prices as they survey beans ready for milling. Photo: David Gilkey/NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60807\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Three women in coffee leading the way: Stephanie Backus of Portland Roasting, coffee farmer Miguelina Villatoro of Guatemala, and coffee exporter/processor Loyreth Sosa. Here they discuss coffee prices as they survey beans ready for milling. Photo: David Gilkey/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/25/177754873/step-aside-gents-witness-the-rise-of-women-in-coffee\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/04/20130425_me_03.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2100208/allison-aubrey\">Alison Aubrey\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/25/177754873/step-aside-gents-witness-the-rise-of-women-in-coffee\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/25/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The inspiration for NPR's Coffee Week arrived in an email last summer. I had just reported on the growing \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Third_Wave_Coffee\">Third-Wave\u003c/a> Movement in Coffee, and the burgeoning interest in \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/08/16/158932704/coffee-is-the-new-wine-heres-how-you-taste-it\">coffee cuppings\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60808\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/womencoffee2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/womencoffee2.jpg\" alt=\"Margaret Swallow co-founded the International Women's Coffee Alliance a decade ago. Photo: David Gilkey/NPR\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60808\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Margaret Swallow co-founded the International Women's Coffee Alliance a decade ago. Photo: David Gilkey/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One listener, Margaret Swallow, who'd heard the story on her local station, WVXU in Cincinnati, reached out to me with the story of 30-plus years in coffee — which culminated in the founding of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.womenincoffee.org/\">International Women's Coffee Alliance\u003c/a>, a group with chapters from Kenya to Costa Rica.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Its mission (as the video below helps explain) is to help bolster women in coffee-producing countries — in part, by helping them find ways to start their own businesses and bring more resources back to their communities. Stories like that of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/11/07/164347078/meet-four-african-women-who-are-changing-the-face-of-coffee\">these four female\u003c/a> coffee growers in Africa, whom we profiled last November, represent the vanguard of change and hope in the industry.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[vimeo 63871593]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Swallow began her career in 1979. Back then, she was marketing the coffee that lots of us grew up with. Fresh out of Harvard Business School, she was hired by Proctor & Gamble as a brand assistant on Folgers Coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you listen to my story, you'll hear how she had an aha moment when she traveled to a coffee farm in Africa. The images she encountered of women and children working long hours in poor conditions, amid crushing poverty, stayed with her. She knew she wanted to make a difference.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The IWCA, now in its 10th year, has grown into a powerful networking organization. But there's still a long way to go. As the \u003ca href=\"http://www.intracen.org/about/projects/women-in-coffee/\">International Trade Centre\u003c/a> has documented, women on family-owned coffee plants in African countries take on about 70 percent of maintenance and harvesting work. Yet they tend to have little or no control over their farms' finances, and they typically do not own land or have easy access to credit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But change is coming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Increasingly in Central and South America, women are making progress. On Tuesday, we documented \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/04/23/journey-of-a-specialty-coffee-bean-from-cherry-to-cup/\">the story\u003c/a> of Guatemalan farmer Miguelina Villatoro. In Colombia, 47 percent of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.federaciondecafeteros.org/algrano-fnc-es/index.php/comments/mujer_y_familia_eje_central_de_la_actividad_cafetera\">National Federation of Colombian Coffee Growers\u003c/a>' members are female. In fact, one-fifth of that country's farms are owned and operated by women, according to the federation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what's next? One new initiative underway is the creation of a Women's Harvest brand of coffee. Nancy Moore of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.almanaharvest.org/\">Almana Harvest Fund\u003c/a> is collaborating with the Costa Rican chapter of the IWCA. They're hoping to launch a pilot soon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Related Story at NPR Food:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/11/07/164347078/meet-four-african-women-who-are-changing-the-face-of-coffee\">Meet 4 African Women Who Are Changing The Face Of Coffee\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2100208/allison-aubrey\">Alison Aubrey\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/25/177754873/step-aside-gents-witness-the-rise-of-women-in-coffee\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/25/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The inspiration for NPR's Coffee Week arrived in an email last summer. I had just reported on the growing \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Third_Wave_Coffee\">Third-Wave\u003c/a> Movement in Coffee, and the burgeoning interest in \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/08/16/158932704/coffee-is-the-new-wine-heres-how-you-taste-it\">coffee cuppings\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60808\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/womencoffee2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/womencoffee2.jpg\" alt=\"Margaret Swallow co-founded the International Women's Coffee Alliance a decade ago. Photo: David Gilkey/NPR\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60808\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Margaret Swallow co-founded the International Women's Coffee Alliance a decade ago. Photo: David Gilkey/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One listener, Margaret Swallow, who'd heard the story on her local station, WVXU in Cincinnati, reached out to me with the story of 30-plus years in coffee — which culminated in the founding of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.womenincoffee.org/\">International Women's Coffee Alliance\u003c/a>, a group with chapters from Kenya to Costa Rica.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Its mission (as the video below helps explain) is to help bolster women in coffee-producing countries — in part, by helping them find ways to start their own businesses and bring more resources back to their communities. Stories like that of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/11/07/164347078/meet-four-african-women-who-are-changing-the-face-of-coffee\">these four female\u003c/a> coffee growers in Africa, whom we profiled last November, represent the vanguard of change and hope in the industry.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Swallow began her career in 1979. Back then, she was marketing the coffee that lots of us grew up with. Fresh out of Harvard Business School, she was hired by Proctor & Gamble as a brand assistant on Folgers Coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you listen to my story, you'll hear how she had an aha moment when she traveled to a coffee farm in Africa. The images she encountered of women and children working long hours in poor conditions, amid crushing poverty, stayed with her. She knew she wanted to make a difference.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The IWCA, now in its 10th year, has grown into a powerful networking organization. But there's still a long way to go. As the \u003ca href=\"http://www.intracen.org/about/projects/women-in-coffee/\">International Trade Centre\u003c/a> has documented, women on family-owned coffee plants in African countries take on about 70 percent of maintenance and harvesting work. Yet they tend to have little or no control over their farms' finances, and they typically do not own land or have easy access to credit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But change is coming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Increasingly in Central and South America, women are making progress. On Tuesday, we documented \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/04/23/journey-of-a-specialty-coffee-bean-from-cherry-to-cup/\">the story\u003c/a> of Guatemalan farmer Miguelina Villatoro. In Colombia, 47 percent of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.federaciondecafeteros.org/algrano-fnc-es/index.php/comments/mujer_y_familia_eje_central_de_la_actividad_cafetera\">National Federation of Colombian Coffee Growers\u003c/a>' members are female. In fact, one-fifth of that country's farms are owned and operated by women, according to the federation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what's next? One new initiative underway is the creation of a Women's Harvest brand of coffee. Nancy Moore of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.almanaharvest.org/\">Almana Harvest Fund\u003c/a> is collaborating with the Costa Rican chapter of the IWCA. They're hoping to launch a pilot soon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Related Story at NPR Food:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/11/07/164347078/meet-four-african-women-who-are-changing-the-face-of-coffee\">Meet 4 African Women Who Are Changing The Face Of Coffee\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60714\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffeeslavery.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffeeslavery.jpg\" alt=\"An overseer sits in the shade while workers collect coffee beans on a Brazilian plantation, circa 1750. Photo: Hulton Archive/Getty Images\" width=\"624\" height=\"467\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60714\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An overseer sits in the shade while workers collect coffee beans on a Brazilian plantation, circa 1750.\u003cbr>Photo: Hulton Archive/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/24/178625554/how-coffee-influenced-the-course-of-history\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/04/20130424_me_14.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Lydia Zuraw, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/24/178625554/how-coffee-influenced-the-course-of-history\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (04/24/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coffee is a powerful beverage. On a personal level, it helps keep us awake and active. On a much broader level, it has helped shape our history and continues to shape our culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coffee plants grow wild in Ethiopia and were probably used by nomadic tribes for thousands of years, but it wasn't until the 1400s that people figured out they could roast its seeds. \"Then it really took off,\" historian \u003ca href=\"http://markpendergrast.com/\">Mark Pendergrast\u003c/a> — author of \u003cem>Uncommon Grounds: The History of Coffee and How It Transformed Our World\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>— tells \u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> host Steve Inskeep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the 1500s, he says, the drink had spread to coffeehouses across the Arab world. Within another 150 years, it took Europe by storm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/178812261/uncommon-grounds-the-history-of-coffee-and-how-it-transformed-our-world\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffeeslavery2.jpg\" alt=\"Uncommon Grounds\" width=\"250\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-60715\">\u003c/a>\"It actually had a major impact on the rise of business,\" Pendergrast says. Coffeehouses became a spot not just to enjoy a cup but to exchange ideas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The insurer \u003ca href=\"http://www.lloyds.com/lloyds/about-us/history\">Lloyd's of London\u003c/a> was founded hundreds of years ago in one of London's 2,000 coffeehouses, he notes. Literature, newspapers and even the works of great composers like Bach and Beethoven were also spawned in coffeehouses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is often said that after the Boston Tea Party of 1773, when American colonists raided British tea ships and threw crates of tea into the harbor, Americans universally switched over to drinking coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's a lot of truth to the story, I found,\" Pendergrast says. He cites a letter John Adams wrote to his wife, Abigail, in which the Founding Father proclaims his love of tea but says he will have to learn to embrace coffee instead, because drinking tea had become unpatriotic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For all the upsides coffee has brought the modern world, it also ushered in its fair share of downsides, too. Europeans carried coffee with them as they colonized various parts of the world, and this frequently meant they enslaved people in order to grow it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One of the ironies about coffee is it makes people think. It sort of creates egalitarian places — coffeehouses where people can come together — and so the French Revolution and the American Revolution were \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/01/10/144988133/drink-coffee-off-with-your-head\">planned\u003c/a> in coffeehouses,\" Pendergrast says. \"On the other hand, that same coffee that was fueling the French Revolution was also being produced by African slaves who had been taken to San Domingo, which we now know as Haiti.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Brazil — where slavery was legal until 1888 — coffee plantations would use slash-and-burn agriculture, tearing down rain forests and planting coffee trees that depleted the nutrients in soil. Once the soil had been sapped, growers would move on to another place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there are history's many coffee naysayers. In 1511, for example, the governor of Mecca banned coffee because his medical advisers warned it was bad for people's health. In 1674, women in London were convinced that coffee made their husbands impotent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, in an age when \u003ca href=\"http://artsbeat.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/02/29/beer-soup-for-the-overcaffeinated-soul/\">beer soup\u003c/a> was the breakfast of champions, coffee had one undeniable health benefit: \"Western civilization sobered up,\" Pendergrast says. Coffee, he says, \"had a very good impact in many ways on our civilization, even though it was, for a long time, grown by slaves.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60714\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffeeslavery.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffeeslavery.jpg\" alt=\"An overseer sits in the shade while workers collect coffee beans on a Brazilian plantation, circa 1750. Photo: Hulton Archive/Getty Images\" width=\"624\" height=\"467\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60714\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An overseer sits in the shade while workers collect coffee beans on a Brazilian plantation, circa 1750.\u003cbr>Photo: Hulton Archive/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/24/178625554/how-coffee-influenced-the-course-of-history\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Lydia Zuraw, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/24/178625554/how-coffee-influenced-the-course-of-history\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (04/24/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coffee is a powerful beverage. On a personal level, it helps keep us awake and active. On a much broader level, it has helped shape our history and continues to shape our culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coffee plants grow wild in Ethiopia and were probably used by nomadic tribes for thousands of years, but it wasn't until the 1400s that people figured out they could roast its seeds. \"Then it really took off,\" historian \u003ca href=\"http://markpendergrast.com/\">Mark Pendergrast\u003c/a> — author of \u003cem>Uncommon Grounds: The History of Coffee and How It Transformed Our World\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>— tells \u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> host Steve Inskeep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the 1500s, he says, the drink had spread to coffeehouses across the Arab world. Within another 150 years, it took Europe by storm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/178812261/uncommon-grounds-the-history-of-coffee-and-how-it-transformed-our-world\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffeeslavery2.jpg\" alt=\"Uncommon Grounds\" width=\"250\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-60715\">\u003c/a>\"It actually had a major impact on the rise of business,\" Pendergrast says. Coffeehouses became a spot not just to enjoy a cup but to exchange ideas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The insurer \u003ca href=\"http://www.lloyds.com/lloyds/about-us/history\">Lloyd's of London\u003c/a> was founded hundreds of years ago in one of London's 2,000 coffeehouses, he notes. Literature, newspapers and even the works of great composers like Bach and Beethoven were also spawned in coffeehouses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is often said that after the Boston Tea Party of 1773, when American colonists raided British tea ships and threw crates of tea into the harbor, Americans universally switched over to drinking coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's a lot of truth to the story, I found,\" Pendergrast says. He cites a letter John Adams wrote to his wife, Abigail, in which the Founding Father proclaims his love of tea but says he will have to learn to embrace coffee instead, because drinking tea had become unpatriotic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For all the upsides coffee has brought the modern world, it also ushered in its fair share of downsides, too. Europeans carried coffee with them as they colonized various parts of the world, and this frequently meant they enslaved people in order to grow it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One of the ironies about coffee is it makes people think. It sort of creates egalitarian places — coffeehouses where people can come together — and so the French Revolution and the American Revolution were \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/01/10/144988133/drink-coffee-off-with-your-head\">planned\u003c/a> in coffeehouses,\" Pendergrast says. \"On the other hand, that same coffee that was fueling the French Revolution was also being produced by African slaves who had been taken to San Domingo, which we now know as Haiti.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Brazil — where slavery was legal until 1888 — coffee plantations would use slash-and-burn agriculture, tearing down rain forests and planting coffee trees that depleted the nutrients in soil. Once the soil had been sapped, growers would move on to another place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there are history's many coffee naysayers. In 1511, for example, the governor of Mecca banned coffee because his medical advisers warned it was bad for people's health. In 1674, women in London were convinced that coffee made their husbands impotent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, in an age when \u003ca href=\"http://artsbeat.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/02/29/beer-soup-for-the-overcaffeinated-soul/\">beer soup\u003c/a> was the breakfast of champions, coffee had one undeniable health benefit: \"Western civilization sobered up,\" Pendergrast says. Coffee, he says, \"had a very good impact in many ways on our civilization, even though it was, for a long time, grown by slaves.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "For Corn, Fickle Weather Makes For Uncertain Yields",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60694\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/corn1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/corn1.jpg\" alt=\"Missouri farmer Gary Riedel says wet weather will put him about a month behind last year's planting. Photo: Abbie Fentress Swanson for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"468\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60694\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Missouri farmer Gary Riedel says wet weather will put him about a month behind last year's planting.\u003cbr>Photo: Abbie Fentress Swanson for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/24/177783540/for-corn-fickle-weather-makes-for-uncertain-yields\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/04/20130424_me_09.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.kbia.org/people/abbie-fentress-swanson\">Abbie Fentress Swanson\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/24/177783540/for-corn-fickle-weather-makes-for-uncertain-yields\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/24/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last year's drought wreaked havoc on farmers' fields in much of the Midwest, cutting crop yields and forcing livestock producers to cull their herds. This spring, the rain that farmers needed so badly in 2012 has finally returned. But maybe too much, and at the wrong time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's almost the end of April, which is prime time to plant corn. But farmers need a break in the rain so they can get this year's crops in the ground and try to lock in good yields at harvest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are other things that can limit yield, and planting date isn't necessarily even the most important one,\" says University of Missouri agronomist \u003ca href=\"http://plantsci.missouri.edu/faculty/myersb.cfm\">Brent Myers\u003c/a>. \"But it is something we have to consider. And we want to try to get that corn planted in that timely window of, say, after the first week of April to the first week in May.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At his farm in Centralia, Mo., Gary Riedel, 69, in his green baseball cap and Western-style shirt, is just itching to plant corn on 1,000 acres of his 2,300-acre farm. He pulls open the lid from one of his planter's hoppers and shows me the salmon-colored corn seed that's all ready to go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Last year, I believe I started planting on the 28th of March, and this year, it may be the 28th of April, the way it's beginning to look,\" Riedel says. \"It's just that the later we get, the more we are subject to problems from pollination due to hot weather.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Excessive heat and dryness can hurt corn pollination and stunt growth, leading to lower yields. So farmers try to plant early — especially with corn still getting about $6.50 a bushel. (As The Salt \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/08/14/158752153/secret-side-of-the-drought-corn-farmers-will-benefit\">reported\u003c/a> last year, corn farmers made serious money, even though yields were down.) The U.S. Department of Agriculture says \u003ca href=\"http://usda01.library.cornell.edu/usda/current/CropProg/CropProg-04-22-2013.pdf\">by this time last year\u003c/a>, 26 percent of the country's corn crop was already planted. This year, farmers only have 4 percent of their corn in the ground.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We walk out to one of his misty fields, and Riedel points to the reason.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"See there, you can see a water puddle out in the field,\" he says. \"We're going to have to wait till that dries up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even when the puddle dries, it still might take a while to get corn into the ground. Planting in cold, wet soil can cause all kinds of problems for corn seedlings, including that they can't take root or emerge above ground.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60696\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/corn2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/corn2.jpg\" alt=\"By this time last year, 26 percent of the country's corn crop was already planted. A wet, cold spring means that only 4 percent is in the ground right now. Photo: Seth Perlman/AP\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60696\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">By this time last year, 26 percent of the country's corn crop was already planted. A wet, cold spring means that only 4 percent is in the ground right now. Photo: Seth Perlman/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"We need some period of dry weather to help dry up the soil so producers can get out in the fields,\" says climatologist \u003ca href=\"http://www.snr.missouri.edu/seas/faculty/guinan-p.php\">Pat Guinan\u003c/a>, who has been forecasting the weather in Missouri for a quarter century. \"Perhaps there may be some drier conditions, which will help. But right now, things are a little too wet across a good part of the state. And not only Missouri. Much of the Corn Belt is very wet. Especially from Iowa, over into Minnesota, parts of Wisconsin, Illinois and on into Indiana, we have some very wet conditions.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even up until January, this moisture is what farmers had been hoping for. Last year's drought led to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.nass.usda.gov/Newsroom/2013/01_11_2013.asp\">13 percent drop in corn production\u003c/a>, which in turn led to tight corn stocks and \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/10/01/162127460/does-your-gas-tank-hold-enough-food-to-feed-22-people\">increased competition for corn\u003c/a> between ethanol plants and livestock producers. The shortfall is also hurting corn exports, which are now at a 40-year low.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A good production year would mean there would be less competition and would improve margins,\" says Sterling Liddell, an agricultural economist with Rabo AgriFinance. \"Especially in the cattle industry, which has suffered the most.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last year's drought moved many farmers, including Gary Riedel, to increase the amount of crop insurance they carry. Peggy Smart, 77, also upped her coverage. Along with her family, she plants corn, soybeans and wheat on 6,000 acres of Missouri River bottomland in Tebbetts, Mo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But nothing is planted yet. \"We just don't have enough sunshine,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both Smart and Riedel are hoping to minimize the risks of bad weather by trying out drought- and flood-tolerant hybrid seeds this year. But first, they have to wait for the soil to dry out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's just crazy that one year is one way and one is another,\" she says. \"We don't have to go to Las Vegas to gamble, because farming is the biggest gamble there is.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Related Stories\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/07/25/157355792/meat-producers-and-ultimately-consumers-hurt-by-drought\">Meat Producers And, Ultimately, Consumers Hurt By Drought\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/08/14/158752153/secret-side-of-the-drought-corn-farmers-will-benefit\">Secret Side Of The Drought: Many Corn Farmers Will Benefit\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/07/24/157243527/despite-crop-insurance-drought-still-stings-farmers\">Despite Crop Insurance, Drought Still Stings Farmers\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Abbie Fentress Swanson reports from Missouri for Harvest Public Media, an agriculture-reporting project involving nine NPR member stations in the Midwest. For more stories about farm and food, check out\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://harvestpublicmedia.org/\">Harvest Public Media\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Corn production was down last year thanks to drought. This year, conditions are too cold and wet for farmers to plant the crop. Without a break in the clouds pretty soon, there may be another shortage of the crop at harvest time.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60694\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/corn1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/corn1.jpg\" alt=\"Missouri farmer Gary Riedel says wet weather will put him about a month behind last year's planting. Photo: Abbie Fentress Swanson for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"468\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60694\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Missouri farmer Gary Riedel says wet weather will put him about a month behind last year's planting.\u003cbr>Photo: Abbie Fentress Swanson for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/24/177783540/for-corn-fickle-weather-makes-for-uncertain-yields\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.kbia.org/people/abbie-fentress-swanson\">Abbie Fentress Swanson\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/24/177783540/for-corn-fickle-weather-makes-for-uncertain-yields\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/24/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last year's drought wreaked havoc on farmers' fields in much of the Midwest, cutting crop yields and forcing livestock producers to cull their herds. This spring, the rain that farmers needed so badly in 2012 has finally returned. But maybe too much, and at the wrong time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's almost the end of April, which is prime time to plant corn. But farmers need a break in the rain so they can get this year's crops in the ground and try to lock in good yields at harvest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are other things that can limit yield, and planting date isn't necessarily even the most important one,\" says University of Missouri agronomist \u003ca href=\"http://plantsci.missouri.edu/faculty/myersb.cfm\">Brent Myers\u003c/a>. \"But it is something we have to consider. And we want to try to get that corn planted in that timely window of, say, after the first week of April to the first week in May.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At his farm in Centralia, Mo., Gary Riedel, 69, in his green baseball cap and Western-style shirt, is just itching to plant corn on 1,000 acres of his 2,300-acre farm. He pulls open the lid from one of his planter's hoppers and shows me the salmon-colored corn seed that's all ready to go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Last year, I believe I started planting on the 28th of March, and this year, it may be the 28th of April, the way it's beginning to look,\" Riedel says. \"It's just that the later we get, the more we are subject to problems from pollination due to hot weather.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Excessive heat and dryness can hurt corn pollination and stunt growth, leading to lower yields. So farmers try to plant early — especially with corn still getting about $6.50 a bushel. (As The Salt \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/08/14/158752153/secret-side-of-the-drought-corn-farmers-will-benefit\">reported\u003c/a> last year, corn farmers made serious money, even though yields were down.) The U.S. Department of Agriculture says \u003ca href=\"http://usda01.library.cornell.edu/usda/current/CropProg/CropProg-04-22-2013.pdf\">by this time last year\u003c/a>, 26 percent of the country's corn crop was already planted. This year, farmers only have 4 percent of their corn in the ground.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We walk out to one of his misty fields, and Riedel points to the reason.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"See there, you can see a water puddle out in the field,\" he says. \"We're going to have to wait till that dries up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even when the puddle dries, it still might take a while to get corn into the ground. Planting in cold, wet soil can cause all kinds of problems for corn seedlings, including that they can't take root or emerge above ground.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60696\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/corn2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/corn2.jpg\" alt=\"By this time last year, 26 percent of the country's corn crop was already planted. A wet, cold spring means that only 4 percent is in the ground right now. Photo: Seth Perlman/AP\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60696\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">By this time last year, 26 percent of the country's corn crop was already planted. A wet, cold spring means that only 4 percent is in the ground right now. Photo: Seth Perlman/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"We need some period of dry weather to help dry up the soil so producers can get out in the fields,\" says climatologist \u003ca href=\"http://www.snr.missouri.edu/seas/faculty/guinan-p.php\">Pat Guinan\u003c/a>, who has been forecasting the weather in Missouri for a quarter century. \"Perhaps there may be some drier conditions, which will help. But right now, things are a little too wet across a good part of the state. And not only Missouri. Much of the Corn Belt is very wet. Especially from Iowa, over into Minnesota, parts of Wisconsin, Illinois and on into Indiana, we have some very wet conditions.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even up until January, this moisture is what farmers had been hoping for. Last year's drought led to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.nass.usda.gov/Newsroom/2013/01_11_2013.asp\">13 percent drop in corn production\u003c/a>, which in turn led to tight corn stocks and \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/10/01/162127460/does-your-gas-tank-hold-enough-food-to-feed-22-people\">increased competition for corn\u003c/a> between ethanol plants and livestock producers. The shortfall is also hurting corn exports, which are now at a 40-year low.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A good production year would mean there would be less competition and would improve margins,\" says Sterling Liddell, an agricultural economist with Rabo AgriFinance. \"Especially in the cattle industry, which has suffered the most.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last year's drought moved many farmers, including Gary Riedel, to increase the amount of crop insurance they carry. Peggy Smart, 77, also upped her coverage. Along with her family, she plants corn, soybeans and wheat on 6,000 acres of Missouri River bottomland in Tebbetts, Mo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But nothing is planted yet. \"We just don't have enough sunshine,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both Smart and Riedel are hoping to minimize the risks of bad weather by trying out drought- and flood-tolerant hybrid seeds this year. But first, they have to wait for the soil to dry out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's just crazy that one year is one way and one is another,\" she says. \"We don't have to go to Las Vegas to gamble, because farming is the biggest gamble there is.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Related Stories\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/07/25/157355792/meat-producers-and-ultimately-consumers-hurt-by-drought\">Meat Producers And, Ultimately, Consumers Hurt By Drought\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/08/14/158752153/secret-side-of-the-drought-corn-farmers-will-benefit\">Secret Side Of The Drought: Many Corn Farmers Will Benefit\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/07/24/157243527/despite-crop-insurance-drought-still-stings-farmers\">Despite Crop Insurance, Drought Still Stings Farmers\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Abbie Fentress Swanson reports from Missouri for Harvest Public Media, an agriculture-reporting project involving nine NPR member stations in the Midwest. For more stories about farm and food, check out\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://harvestpublicmedia.org/\">Harvest Public Media\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Coffee For A Cause: What Do Those Feel-Good Labels Deliver?",
"title": "Coffee For A Cause: What Do Those Feel-Good Labels Deliver?",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60614\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee1-1024x675.jpg\" alt=\"Luis Fernando Vasquez has been a coffee farmer in the central valley of Costa Rica his entire life. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"675\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60614\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Luis Fernando Vasquez has been a coffee farmer in the central valley of Costa Rica his entire life. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/24/177757797/coffee-for-a-cause-what-do-those-feel-good-labels-deliver\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/04/20130424_me_03.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/24/177757797/coffee-for-a-cause-what-do-those-feel-good-labels-deliver\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/24/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What does it take to find guilt-free coffee?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much of our coffee comes from places where the environment is endangered and workers earn very little — sometimes, just a few dollars for a whole day's work. Coffee farmers have helped cut down tropical forests, and most of them use pesticides.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It doesn't take much effort, though, to find bags of coffee with labels that promise social and environmental improvements. Among the best-known are \u003ca href=\"http://www.fairtrade.net/\">Fairtrade\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.rainforest-alliance.org/agriculture/certification\">Rain Forest Alliance Certified\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I went to Costa Rica to find out what those labels mean and how well they deliver on their promises.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I visited, for example, a hillside in the country's central valley, near the town of San Ramon, where Luis Fernando Vasquez grows coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vasquez loves showing off his farm, which also produces bananas and honey. He's lived here his whole life and learned to grow coffee from his father. But in the past few years, he says, he's changed the way he farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60615\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee2-1024x574.jpg\" alt=\"Luis Fernando Vasquez's coffee farm in Costa Rica. Vasquez says farmers have changed their methods in recent years. Where they once would cut down trees, he says, "now we are coming to understand that the tree plays a role" in a healthy coffee plant ecosystem. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"574\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60615\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Luis Fernando Vasquez's coffee farm in Costa Rica. Vasquez says farmers have changed their methods in recent years. Where they once would cut down trees, he says, \"now we are coming to understand that the tree plays a role\" in a healthy coffee plant ecosystem. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Before, a tree used to be an obstacle, and we'd just cut it down,\" he says. \"Now, we are coming to understand that the tree plays a role, and it can coexist with our commercial coffee plantation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coffee plants that grow in the shade of trees produce fewer beans, but many people say those beans taste better. In addition, trees help reduce soil erosion and provide a home for wildlife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vasquez points at the ground, which is covered by a layer of dead, decaying leaves. \"We used to pick all that up, bring it to one central point on the farm and then set it on fire,\" he says. \"But now I know that if I leave it there, it will actually help improve soil fertility.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There also have been changes that I can't see: He's using fewer pesticides and recycling his trash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vasquez is enthusiastic about these changes, but they were not originally his idea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They're the result of a long chain of decisions reaching all to way back to American consumers contemplating their many coffee options in the local Stop & Shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several people who are part of that chain are also with me here on the farm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60621\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee8.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee8.png\" alt=\"Fair Trade? Rainforest Alliance? What's In A Coffee Certification\" width=\"200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60621\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fair Trade? Rainforest Alliance? What's In A Coffee Certification\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>Learn More About the Different Coffee Certifications Below\u003c/strong>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, there's Sergio Gurdian, who works for \u003ca href=\"http://www.ecomtrading.com/en/our-products/coffee/about-ecom-coffee-113.html\">ECOM Trading\u003c/a>, the second-biggest coffee trader in the world. ECOM buys beans from farmers and sells them to big companies like Starbucks or Nestle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gurdian and his colleagues went to Vasquez and persuaded him to change his farming practices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why? \"I think that the world is changing right now,\" says Gurdian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To be specific, one of ECOM's big customers is changing. \u003ca href=\"http://www.nespresso.com/us/en/home\">Nespresso\u003c/a>, a coffee business owned by Nestle, has decided that it wants most of its coffee to carry a particular label: Rainforest Alliance Certified.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And \u003ca href=\"http://www.rainforest-alliance.org/\">Rainforest Alliance\u003c/a>, the environmental group behind this label, has a whole set of rules for farmers, called the \u003ca href=\"http://www.rainforest-alliance.org/agriculture/standards\">Sustainable Agriculture Standard\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>ECOM took on the job of getting farmers onboard. \"We said, 'OK, it's time to show the producers that sustainability is OK, and that we can offer lots of benefits, not only for them, the producers, but also for their farms,\" says Gurdian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was also a small financial incentive. Now that Vasquez, the farmer, is Rainforest Alliance Certified, he gets about 15 cents more for each pound of coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The number of farmers like him is growing. According to Rainforest Alliance, 4.5 percent of all coffee produced in 2012 came from Rainforest Alliance Certified farms. That's a 45 percent increase over 2011.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are other labels, of course: fair trade; organic; direct trade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of these labels promise slightly different things, and every promise involves some compromises.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance: Rainforest Alliance runs a relatively strict system, with independent auditors who inspect farms at random. If the auditors find prohibited pesticides, or workers earning less than the minimum wage, that farm can lose its certification. Sometimes, a whole group of neighboring farms also can be decertified.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You may be glad to know that the program has teeth. On the other hand, those rules shut out many of the smallest, poorest farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emilia Umaña, who also helps farmers get Rainforest Alliance certification, says the rules ask for things that are too expensive for many small farmers to buy — like special showers for workers to use after applying pesticides. \"One of the biggest flaws in the system is that they use the same rule book, worldwide, for every type of producer in every company,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're specifically interested in helping small farmers, maybe you should look for fair trade coffee. Its whole focus is small coffee producers. Traditionally, all fair trade coffee has come from cooperatives of small producers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60617\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee4-1024x574.jpg\" alt=\"Christian Mora is the general manager of AFAORCA, a fair trade coffee cooperative in Costa Rica. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"574\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60617\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Christian Mora is the general manager of AFAORCA, a fair trade coffee cooperative in Costa Rica. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Christian Mora is general manager of one of these co-ops, called \u003ca href=\"http://afaorca.com/online/modules/info/\">AFAORCA\u003c/a>, in Costa Rica. It has just 24 members.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To get fair trade certification, he says, you have to show a fair trade organization that your cooperative keeps an honest set of books, that it operates democratically, and that it treats workers fairly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They come in and interview people who work in the coffee fields, and they make sure that salaries are fair, and that labor rights are respected, according to the law,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once certified, the cooperative gets 20 cents extra for every pound of fair trade coffee that it sells. The cooperative then decides how to spend that \"social premium.\" It could pass the money on to its members, or do something else with it, such as improve a local school.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there are compromises with fair trade, too. It doesn't deal with environmental practices on the farms, and some buyers complain that fair trade coffee isn't always good-quality coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the moment, in fact, the fair trade movement is going through a \u003ca href=\"http://www.marcgunther.com/a-schism-over-fair-trade/\">bitter split\u003c/a>. One group, \u003ca href=\"http://www.fairtradeusa.org/\">Fair Trade USA\u003c/a>, wants to \u003ca href=\"http://international.cgdev.org/publication/my-fair-trade-coffee-really-fair-trends-and-challenges-fair-trade-certification\">expand\u003c/a> the label so it can include coffee from individual farmers — even big estates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mora isn't happy about this expanded definition of fair trade. \"It could be a problem, because the goal of the label gets lost, and it becomes more of a marketing tool for big businesses, and just makes it easier for them to sell their product,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This tension — between trying to be a real alternative to the mainstream and joining the mainstream — comes up all the time in these certification schemes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The toughest environmental certification is probably one called \u003ca href=\"http://nationalzoo.si.edu/scbi/migratorybirds/coffee/\">Smithsonian Bird Friendly coffee\u003c/a>. This coffee is grown organically, with no manufactured fertilizer or pesticides, in fields that also contain 10 different kinds of shade trees. Only a few farmers, though, are willing to grow coffee this way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60618\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee5-1024x681.jpg\" alt=\"Angelina Zuñiga Godinez and Fanny Cordero Mora grow coffee for Coopetarrazu, one of Costa Rica's largest coffee cooperatives. These bags of coffee are labeled with the towns where they are grow. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"681\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60618\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Angelina Zuñiga Godinez and Fanny Cordero Mora grow coffee for Coopetarrazu, one of Costa Rica's largest coffee cooperatives. These bags of coffee are labeled with the towns where they are grow. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On the other end of the spectrum, Starbucks runs a really big \u003ca href=\"http://www.starbucks.com/responsibility/sourcing/coffee\">program\u003c/a> called C.A.F.E. Practices (Coffee and Farmer Equity Practices). Like Rainforest Alliance certification, this scheme includes both environmental and social standards, but the Starbucks audits aren't really tests that a farmer can flunk. They're more like counseling sessions. If farmers are doing something wrong, Starbucks will tell them how to improve, but it still buys their coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet for all their differences and compromises, coffee producers in Costa Rica say these certification systems, collectively, have had a real impact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carlos Rivera Chavarria, general manager of one of the country's largest cooperatives, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cafetarrazu.com/\">Coopetarrazu\u003c/a>, says certifications all helped farmers to hear what consumers wanted, much more directly than ever before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These programs allowed his producers to \"rediscover quality coffee,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coopetarrazu sells coffee under the fair trade label. In addition, some of its farmers are Rainforest Alliance Certified, and the co-op sells a lot of coffee to Starbucks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now the co-op is experimenting with \"direct trade.\" It's selling small lots of coffee from particular villages to roasters who can pass along the story of that coffee, and that village, to consumers who want to know even more about the sources of their coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>What's In A Certification?\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Organic\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee6.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee6.png\" alt=\"USDA Organic - USDA.gov\" width=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-60619\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Regulates growing methods, prohibiting GMO seeds and synthetic substances\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Forty countries carry organic coffee farms, with the first certified in 1967\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Averages a $0.255/lb increase in market price for coffee producers\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>298 million pounds organic coffee grown in 2010\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fair Trade International\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee7.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee7.png\" alt=\"Fairtrade International - Fairtrade.net\" width=\"200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60620\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Seeks to increase welfare for small farmers and communities\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Guarantees a minimum market price plus 10- to 20-cent premium per pound\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Premium is paid to cooperatives to either distribute to farmers or use for community development projects\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>790 million pounds grown in 2010\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rainforest Alliance\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee8.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee8.png\" alt=\"Rainforest Alliance\" width=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-60621\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Emphasizes sustainability in social, environmental, economic and ethical areas\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Developed in early 1990s\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Recently gained the support of major buyers including McDonalds and Nespresso\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Expanded from 197 million pounds grown in 2007 to 827 million pounds in 2012\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cstrong>Smithsonian Migratory Bird Center 'Bird Friendly'\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee9.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee9.jpg\" alt=\"Smithsonian Migratory Bird Center\" width=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-60622\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Promotes biodiversity through the planting of trees for habitat and shade cover\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Requires organic certification and the use of specific trees\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Certification can lead to a 5- to 10-cent premium over organic coffee prices\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>One of the smallest certification programs, with approximately 10.4 million pounds of coffee sold in 2011\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Starbucks Coffee And Farmer Equity 'CAFE'\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee10.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee10.png\" alt=\"Starbucks\" width=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-60613\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Verification criteria developed over past 14 years with Conservation International\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Evaluates workers' rights, benefits, environmental protection and sustainability\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Starbucks aims for 100 percent-certified coffee supply by 2015\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In 2012, 90 percent of supply — approximately 491 million pounds — was from CAFE-verified farms\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "It doesn't take much effort to find bags of coffee with labels that promise social and environmental improvements. But each one of these certification programs promises something different for the farmer and the land — and every promise involves some compromises.",
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"description": "It doesn't take much effort to find bags of coffee with labels that promise social and environmental improvements. But each one of these certification programs promises something different for the farmer and the land — and every promise involves some compromises.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60614\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee1-1024x675.jpg\" alt=\"Luis Fernando Vasquez has been a coffee farmer in the central valley of Costa Rica his entire life. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"675\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60614\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Luis Fernando Vasquez has been a coffee farmer in the central valley of Costa Rica his entire life. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/24/177757797/coffee-for-a-cause-what-do-those-feel-good-labels-deliver\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/24/177757797/coffee-for-a-cause-what-do-those-feel-good-labels-deliver\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/24/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What does it take to find guilt-free coffee?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much of our coffee comes from places where the environment is endangered and workers earn very little — sometimes, just a few dollars for a whole day's work. Coffee farmers have helped cut down tropical forests, and most of them use pesticides.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It doesn't take much effort, though, to find bags of coffee with labels that promise social and environmental improvements. Among the best-known are \u003ca href=\"http://www.fairtrade.net/\">Fairtrade\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.rainforest-alliance.org/agriculture/certification\">Rain Forest Alliance Certified\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I went to Costa Rica to find out what those labels mean and how well they deliver on their promises.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I visited, for example, a hillside in the country's central valley, near the town of San Ramon, where Luis Fernando Vasquez grows coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vasquez loves showing off his farm, which also produces bananas and honey. He's lived here his whole life and learned to grow coffee from his father. But in the past few years, he says, he's changed the way he farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60615\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee2-1024x574.jpg\" alt=\"Luis Fernando Vasquez's coffee farm in Costa Rica. Vasquez says farmers have changed their methods in recent years. Where they once would cut down trees, he says, "now we are coming to understand that the tree plays a role" in a healthy coffee plant ecosystem. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"574\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60615\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Luis Fernando Vasquez's coffee farm in Costa Rica. Vasquez says farmers have changed their methods in recent years. Where they once would cut down trees, he says, \"now we are coming to understand that the tree plays a role\" in a healthy coffee plant ecosystem. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Before, a tree used to be an obstacle, and we'd just cut it down,\" he says. \"Now, we are coming to understand that the tree plays a role, and it can coexist with our commercial coffee plantation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coffee plants that grow in the shade of trees produce fewer beans, but many people say those beans taste better. In addition, trees help reduce soil erosion and provide a home for wildlife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vasquez points at the ground, which is covered by a layer of dead, decaying leaves. \"We used to pick all that up, bring it to one central point on the farm and then set it on fire,\" he says. \"But now I know that if I leave it there, it will actually help improve soil fertility.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There also have been changes that I can't see: He's using fewer pesticides and recycling his trash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vasquez is enthusiastic about these changes, but they were not originally his idea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They're the result of a long chain of decisions reaching all to way back to American consumers contemplating their many coffee options in the local Stop & Shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several people who are part of that chain are also with me here on the farm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60621\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee8.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee8.png\" alt=\"Fair Trade? Rainforest Alliance? What's In A Coffee Certification\" width=\"200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60621\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fair Trade? Rainforest Alliance? What's In A Coffee Certification\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>Learn More About the Different Coffee Certifications Below\u003c/strong>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, there's Sergio Gurdian, who works for \u003ca href=\"http://www.ecomtrading.com/en/our-products/coffee/about-ecom-coffee-113.html\">ECOM Trading\u003c/a>, the second-biggest coffee trader in the world. ECOM buys beans from farmers and sells them to big companies like Starbucks or Nestle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gurdian and his colleagues went to Vasquez and persuaded him to change his farming practices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why? \"I think that the world is changing right now,\" says Gurdian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To be specific, one of ECOM's big customers is changing. \u003ca href=\"http://www.nespresso.com/us/en/home\">Nespresso\u003c/a>, a coffee business owned by Nestle, has decided that it wants most of its coffee to carry a particular label: Rainforest Alliance Certified.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And \u003ca href=\"http://www.rainforest-alliance.org/\">Rainforest Alliance\u003c/a>, the environmental group behind this label, has a whole set of rules for farmers, called the \u003ca href=\"http://www.rainforest-alliance.org/agriculture/standards\">Sustainable Agriculture Standard\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>ECOM took on the job of getting farmers onboard. \"We said, 'OK, it's time to show the producers that sustainability is OK, and that we can offer lots of benefits, not only for them, the producers, but also for their farms,\" says Gurdian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was also a small financial incentive. Now that Vasquez, the farmer, is Rainforest Alliance Certified, he gets about 15 cents more for each pound of coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The number of farmers like him is growing. According to Rainforest Alliance, 4.5 percent of all coffee produced in 2012 came from Rainforest Alliance Certified farms. That's a 45 percent increase over 2011.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are other labels, of course: fair trade; organic; direct trade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of these labels promise slightly different things, and every promise involves some compromises.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance: Rainforest Alliance runs a relatively strict system, with independent auditors who inspect farms at random. If the auditors find prohibited pesticides, or workers earning less than the minimum wage, that farm can lose its certification. Sometimes, a whole group of neighboring farms also can be decertified.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You may be glad to know that the program has teeth. On the other hand, those rules shut out many of the smallest, poorest farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emilia Umaña, who also helps farmers get Rainforest Alliance certification, says the rules ask for things that are too expensive for many small farmers to buy — like special showers for workers to use after applying pesticides. \"One of the biggest flaws in the system is that they use the same rule book, worldwide, for every type of producer in every company,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're specifically interested in helping small farmers, maybe you should look for fair trade coffee. Its whole focus is small coffee producers. Traditionally, all fair trade coffee has come from cooperatives of small producers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60617\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee4-1024x574.jpg\" alt=\"Christian Mora is the general manager of AFAORCA, a fair trade coffee cooperative in Costa Rica. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"574\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60617\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Christian Mora is the general manager of AFAORCA, a fair trade coffee cooperative in Costa Rica. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Christian Mora is general manager of one of these co-ops, called \u003ca href=\"http://afaorca.com/online/modules/info/\">AFAORCA\u003c/a>, in Costa Rica. It has just 24 members.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To get fair trade certification, he says, you have to show a fair trade organization that your cooperative keeps an honest set of books, that it operates democratically, and that it treats workers fairly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They come in and interview people who work in the coffee fields, and they make sure that salaries are fair, and that labor rights are respected, according to the law,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once certified, the cooperative gets 20 cents extra for every pound of fair trade coffee that it sells. The cooperative then decides how to spend that \"social premium.\" It could pass the money on to its members, or do something else with it, such as improve a local school.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there are compromises with fair trade, too. It doesn't deal with environmental practices on the farms, and some buyers complain that fair trade coffee isn't always good-quality coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the moment, in fact, the fair trade movement is going through a \u003ca href=\"http://www.marcgunther.com/a-schism-over-fair-trade/\">bitter split\u003c/a>. One group, \u003ca href=\"http://www.fairtradeusa.org/\">Fair Trade USA\u003c/a>, wants to \u003ca href=\"http://international.cgdev.org/publication/my-fair-trade-coffee-really-fair-trends-and-challenges-fair-trade-certification\">expand\u003c/a> the label so it can include coffee from individual farmers — even big estates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mora isn't happy about this expanded definition of fair trade. \"It could be a problem, because the goal of the label gets lost, and it becomes more of a marketing tool for big businesses, and just makes it easier for them to sell their product,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This tension — between trying to be a real alternative to the mainstream and joining the mainstream — comes up all the time in these certification schemes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The toughest environmental certification is probably one called \u003ca href=\"http://nationalzoo.si.edu/scbi/migratorybirds/coffee/\">Smithsonian Bird Friendly coffee\u003c/a>. This coffee is grown organically, with no manufactured fertilizer or pesticides, in fields that also contain 10 different kinds of shade trees. Only a few farmers, though, are willing to grow coffee this way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60618\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee5-1024x681.jpg\" alt=\"Angelina Zuñiga Godinez and Fanny Cordero Mora grow coffee for Coopetarrazu, one of Costa Rica's largest coffee cooperatives. These bags of coffee are labeled with the towns where they are grow. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"681\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60618\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Angelina Zuñiga Godinez and Fanny Cordero Mora grow coffee for Coopetarrazu, one of Costa Rica's largest coffee cooperatives. These bags of coffee are labeled with the towns where they are grow. Photo: Dan Charles/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On the other end of the spectrum, Starbucks runs a really big \u003ca href=\"http://www.starbucks.com/responsibility/sourcing/coffee\">program\u003c/a> called C.A.F.E. Practices (Coffee and Farmer Equity Practices). Like Rainforest Alliance certification, this scheme includes both environmental and social standards, but the Starbucks audits aren't really tests that a farmer can flunk. They're more like counseling sessions. If farmers are doing something wrong, Starbucks will tell them how to improve, but it still buys their coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet for all their differences and compromises, coffee producers in Costa Rica say these certification systems, collectively, have had a real impact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carlos Rivera Chavarria, general manager of one of the country's largest cooperatives, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cafetarrazu.com/\">Coopetarrazu\u003c/a>, says certifications all helped farmers to hear what consumers wanted, much more directly than ever before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These programs allowed his producers to \"rediscover quality coffee,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coopetarrazu sells coffee under the fair trade label. In addition, some of its farmers are Rainforest Alliance Certified, and the co-op sells a lot of coffee to Starbucks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now the co-op is experimenting with \"direct trade.\" It's selling small lots of coffee from particular villages to roasters who can pass along the story of that coffee, and that village, to consumers who want to know even more about the sources of their coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>What's In A Certification?\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Organic\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee6.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee6.png\" alt=\"USDA Organic - USDA.gov\" width=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-60619\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Regulates growing methods, prohibiting GMO seeds and synthetic substances\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Forty countries carry organic coffee farms, with the first certified in 1967\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Averages a $0.255/lb increase in market price for coffee producers\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>298 million pounds organic coffee grown in 2010\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fair Trade International\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee7.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee7.png\" alt=\"Fairtrade International - Fairtrade.net\" width=\"200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60620\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Seeks to increase welfare for small farmers and communities\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Guarantees a minimum market price plus 10- to 20-cent premium per pound\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Premium is paid to cooperatives to either distribute to farmers or use for community development projects\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>790 million pounds grown in 2010\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rainforest Alliance\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee8.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee8.png\" alt=\"Rainforest Alliance\" width=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-60621\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Emphasizes sustainability in social, environmental, economic and ethical areas\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Developed in early 1990s\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Recently gained the support of major buyers including McDonalds and Nespresso\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Expanded from 197 million pounds grown in 2007 to 827 million pounds in 2012\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cstrong>Smithsonian Migratory Bird Center 'Bird Friendly'\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee9.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee9.jpg\" alt=\"Smithsonian Migratory Bird Center\" width=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-60622\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Promotes biodiversity through the planting of trees for habitat and shade cover\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Requires organic certification and the use of specific trees\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Certification can lead to a 5- to 10-cent premium over organic coffee prices\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>One of the smallest certification programs, with approximately 10.4 million pounds of coffee sold in 2011\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Starbucks Coffee And Farmer Equity 'CAFE'\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee10.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee10.png\" alt=\"Starbucks\" width=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-60613\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Verification criteria developed over past 14 years with Conservation International\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Evaluates workers' rights, benefits, environmental protection and sustainability\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Starbucks aims for 100 percent-certified coffee supply by 2015\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In 2012, 90 percent of supply — approximately 491 million pounds — was from CAFE-verified farms\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Journey Of A Specialty Coffee Bean, From Cherry To Cup",
"title": "Journey Of A Specialty Coffee Bean, From Cherry To Cup",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"single-video\">\u003ciframe width=\"600\" height=\"338\" src=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/event/embeddedVideo.php?storyId=178436079&mediaId=178505938\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/23/178436079/journey-of-a-specialty-coffee-bean-from-cherry-to-cup\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/04/20130423_me_03.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Allison Aubrey, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/23/178436079/journey-of-a-specialty-coffee-bean-from-cherry-to-cup\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/23/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we wanted to know how the growth of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.scaa.org/\">specialty coffee\u003c/a> movement is influencing the lives of farmers, we took a trip to the mountainous region of Huehuetenango in Guatemala.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here, we met farmer \u003ca href=\"http://mujerescafeguatemala.org/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=110&Itemid=&lang=en\">Miguelina Villatoro\u003c/a>, owner of Finca El Paternal. If you listen to my radio story, you'll hear how she has salvaged a family farm by maximizing the quality of her beans and entering into a direct trade deal with \u003ca href=\"http://portlandroasting.com/\">Portland Roasting\u003c/a>.\u003ca href=\"http://portlandroasting.com/\"> \u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At a time when the global commodity price of coffee has sunk to about $1.40 a pound, Villatoro is getting $2.50 per pound for her coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And this kind of premium is typical for farmers catering to the specialty market, who compete on quality. The premium she's getting for her beans allows her to reinvest in the farm and improve conditions for her workers. One recent improvement: She has added water filters to boost the quality of workers' drinking water. And the workers' living quarters on the farm now have a stove with a chimney — small luxuries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The relationship between Villatoro and Portland Roasting began with a dramatic landing by helicopter at her farm nearly 13 years ago. Mark Stell arranged the visit as part of a tour where he scoped out lots of farms. In the end, he was impressed with the quality of her coffee — which had just placed well at a tasting competition called \u003ca href=\"http://www.allianceforcoffeeexcellence.org/en/\">Cup of Excellence\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The quality is driving this [expansion of the specialty coffee],\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.tedfischer.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/fischer-cv-August-2012.pdf\">Edward Fischer\u003c/a>, director of the Center for Latin American Studies at Vanderbilt University. And he says it's having a positive effect on workers and small producers in Guatemala.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The volume of coffee that Guatemala exports has either dropped a little or stayed level since 2001, he says. \"And yet the revenues from coffee have gone up,\" says Fischer. This means that coffee producers are \"earning more for the coffee they're exporting.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you click on the slideshow above (the images shot by my colleague David Gilkey are beautiful), you'll see the incredibly labor-intensive process of producing coffee. Who knew that coffee plants produce cherries, not beans? Or that they've got to be milled not once, but twice to produce the green coffee that's ready for roasting?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, next time you sip on a latte, remember: It's not just the face of the barista behind those coffee beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60523\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee-stell-promo-bfbe4a5d516ff68a5154d0d893b4ef67cf5c8f55.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee-stell-promo-bfbe4a5d516ff68a5154d0d893b4ef67cf5c8f55.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Stell of Portland Roasting samples coffee from his Guatemalan grower. Photo: David Gilkey/NPR\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60523\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mark Stell of Portland Roasting samples coffee from his Guatemalan grower. Photo: David Gilkey/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At \u003ca href=\"http://rainorshinepdx.com/about\">Rain or Shine Coffee House\u003c/a> in Portland, where customers pay upwards of 2 bucks for a coffee, owner Claire Teasdale says she wants her customers to know the stories about the farmers, like Villatoro, behind their cup of joe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Knowing all the effort that goes into that cup \"makes the whole experience of enjoying the coffee a little better,\" says Teasdale.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The specialty coffee movement, often called \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Third_Wave_Coffee\">Third Wave Coffee\u003c/a>, is a fast-growing niche within the colossal coffee world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And increasingly, in this third-wave world, roasters and cafes aren't just selling us a good cup of coffee. They're also selling us the story behind it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "That tasty cup of java from your favorite gourmet coffee shop began life on a farm thousands of miles away. Farmers who cater to the specialty coffee market compete on quality. And some use the higher prices their beans fetch to reinvest in their businesses and improve conditions for workers.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Allison Aubrey, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/23/178436079/journey-of-a-specialty-coffee-bean-from-cherry-to-cup\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/23/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we wanted to know how the growth of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.scaa.org/\">specialty coffee\u003c/a> movement is influencing the lives of farmers, we took a trip to the mountainous region of Huehuetenango in Guatemala.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here, we met farmer \u003ca href=\"http://mujerescafeguatemala.org/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=110&Itemid=&lang=en\">Miguelina Villatoro\u003c/a>, owner of Finca El Paternal. If you listen to my radio story, you'll hear how she has salvaged a family farm by maximizing the quality of her beans and entering into a direct trade deal with \u003ca href=\"http://portlandroasting.com/\">Portland Roasting\u003c/a>.\u003ca href=\"http://portlandroasting.com/\"> \u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At a time when the global commodity price of coffee has sunk to about $1.40 a pound, Villatoro is getting $2.50 per pound for her coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And this kind of premium is typical for farmers catering to the specialty market, who compete on quality. The premium she's getting for her beans allows her to reinvest in the farm and improve conditions for her workers. One recent improvement: She has added water filters to boost the quality of workers' drinking water. And the workers' living quarters on the farm now have a stove with a chimney — small luxuries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The relationship between Villatoro and Portland Roasting began with a dramatic landing by helicopter at her farm nearly 13 years ago. Mark Stell arranged the visit as part of a tour where he scoped out lots of farms. In the end, he was impressed with the quality of her coffee — which had just placed well at a tasting competition called \u003ca href=\"http://www.allianceforcoffeeexcellence.org/en/\">Cup of Excellence\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The quality is driving this [expansion of the specialty coffee],\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.tedfischer.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/fischer-cv-August-2012.pdf\">Edward Fischer\u003c/a>, director of the Center for Latin American Studies at Vanderbilt University. And he says it's having a positive effect on workers and small producers in Guatemala.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The volume of coffee that Guatemala exports has either dropped a little or stayed level since 2001, he says. \"And yet the revenues from coffee have gone up,\" says Fischer. This means that coffee producers are \"earning more for the coffee they're exporting.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you click on the slideshow above (the images shot by my colleague David Gilkey are beautiful), you'll see the incredibly labor-intensive process of producing coffee. Who knew that coffee plants produce cherries, not beans? Or that they've got to be milled not once, but twice to produce the green coffee that's ready for roasting?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, next time you sip on a latte, remember: It's not just the face of the barista behind those coffee beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60523\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee-stell-promo-bfbe4a5d516ff68a5154d0d893b4ef67cf5c8f55.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffee-stell-promo-bfbe4a5d516ff68a5154d0d893b4ef67cf5c8f55.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Stell of Portland Roasting samples coffee from his Guatemalan grower. Photo: David Gilkey/NPR\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60523\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mark Stell of Portland Roasting samples coffee from his Guatemalan grower. Photo: David Gilkey/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At \u003ca href=\"http://rainorshinepdx.com/about\">Rain or Shine Coffee House\u003c/a> in Portland, where customers pay upwards of 2 bucks for a coffee, owner Claire Teasdale says she wants her customers to know the stories about the farmers, like Villatoro, behind their cup of joe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Knowing all the effort that goes into that cup \"makes the whole experience of enjoying the coffee a little better,\" says Teasdale.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The specialty coffee movement, often called \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Third_Wave_Coffee\">Third Wave Coffee\u003c/a>, is a fast-growing niche within the colossal coffee world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And increasingly, in this third-wave world, roasters and cafes aren't just selling us a good cup of coffee. They're also selling us the story behind it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Fire, Water, Air, Earth: Michael Pollan Gets Elemental In 'Cooked'",
"title": "Fire, Water, Air, Earth: Michael Pollan Gets Elemental In 'Cooked'",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/177493377/cooked-a-natural-history-of-transformation\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/cooked-bookcover-191x290.jpg\" alt=\"Cooked - A Natural History of Transformation. by Michael Pollan\" width=\"191\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-60467\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/21/177501735/fire-water-air-earth-michael-pollan-gets-elemental-in-cooked\">NPR Books - Author Interviews\u003c/a> (4/21/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/21/177501735/fire-water-air-earth-michael-pollan-gets-elemental-in-cooked\">Weekend Edition Sunday\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesun/2013/04/20130421_wesun_09.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In his systematic scrutiny of the modern American food chain, Michael Pollan has explored everything from the evolution of edible plants to the industrial agricultural complex. In his newest book, he charts territory closer to home — or rather, \u003cem>at\u003c/em> home, in his kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Cooked: A Natural History of Transformation\u003c/em> surveys how the four classical elements — fire, water, air and earth — transform plants and animals into food. Pollan joins NPR's Rachel Martin to discuss the merits of slow home cooking and his adventures in fermentation.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60468\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael-pollan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael-pollan-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Michael Pollan is the author of five books, including The Botany of Desire, The Omnivore's Dilemma and In Defense of Food. A longtime contributing writer to The New York Times Magazine, Pollan is also the Knight Professor of Journalism at the University of California, Berkeley. Photo: Fran Collin/Penguin Press\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60468\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Michael Pollan is the author of five books, including \u003cem>The Botany of Desire,\u003c/em> \u003cem>The Omnivore's Dilemma\u003c/em> and \u003cem>In Defense of Food\u003c/em>. A longtime contributing writer to \u003cem>The New York Times Magazine\u003c/em>, Pollan is also the Knight Professor of Journalism at the University of California, Berkeley.\u003cbr>Photo: Fran Collin/Penguin Press\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the central transformations in cooking\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I discovered that there are four central transformations that all cooking can be divided into. One is fire, the most elemental; the other is water, cooking in pots; then you've got air, which is baking, and other ways we aerate our food — very significant; and then there's earth, and earth is really fermentation, because it's cooking without the use of heat and strictly with microbes, many of which come from the earth. And I basically apprenticed myself to a master in each of those transformations.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how cooking left the kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"We kind of assume that women went back to work and there was no time to make a family meal. But it isn't that simple and it's a lot more interesting. The corporations were knocking on that door for almost 100 years. And after World War II, when they had invented all these technologies for processing food and making it shelf stable and simulating real foods with fake foods, they really pushed. And they found their opportunity with the feminist revolution beginning in the '70s. There was this really uncomfortable conversation taking place at kitchen tables all across America. Men and women were trying to renegotiate the division of labor in the household. And then the food industry recognized they had an opportunity. And they said 'Don't worry about it, we've got you covered. We'll do the cooking.' And KFC even took out a billboard with a big bucket of fried chicken and the slogan, 'Women's Liberation.'\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So I really think we need to go back and finish that difficult conversation. And I've had it, you know, with my wife, over who does what in the house, and bring men back into the kitchen. And children, which I think is really, really important ... I think the most important thing we can teach our kids for their long-term health and happiness is how to cook.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the fallacy of convenience\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Some of the foods that hold themselves out to you as supremely convenient, like those microwaveable single-portion entrees in the supermarket? I did an experiment with those. We had what we called 'Microwave Night,' where we all got to buy one of those, you know, fast-food-in-a-frozen-bag things that they now have in the supermarket. And guess what? It took 40 minutes to get that meal on the table. Because the microwave is individualistic. You can only microwave one person's entrée at a time. And you're not sharing. And there's something magical that happens when people eat from the same pot. The family meal is really the nursery of democracy. It's where we learn to share, it's where we learn to argue without offending. It's just too critical to let go, as we've been so blithely doing.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On bonding with your kids over cooking\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"[My teenage son] loved doing his homework at the island in the middle of the kitchen. And he would work while I was cooking, and he took in the smells, and he'd come over every now and then and taste what was in the pot and offer some unsolicited seasoning advice ... And the best time to connect with a teenager is when other things are going on, when you're not trying to have a face-to-face, when you're not making eye contact, basically. And so while he was doing homework and I was cooking, we had some of our sweetest times together. And then of course there was the meal.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the resurgence and process of fermentation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Fermentation is hot. Who would've thought that kimchi and sauerkraut would be trendy? [Fermentation] is essentially rot that we're kind of guiding. We can't totally control it, but we can guide it. And this, I found, was the most fascinating work I did. I mean, here you cut up a cabbage, and you salt it, and you just, you know, bruise it with your hands and you put it in a crock. And then it automatically cooks. There are already just the right bacteria living on the leaves of those cabbages, that they will, without any heat, transform that food into something more flavorful, more nutritious, more beautiful in every way.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On an unexpected 'transformation'\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I definitely spend more time cooking. I just make time for it. You know, we live in a very mediated life right now. We spend our lives in front of screens, and cooking is one of the best antidotes. And it's a democratic pleasure — all of us can do it ... This is a book about transformations, and I thought it was all about transformations of nature, but in the end it became a transformation of me, too.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"excerpt": "In his latest book, the author of \u003cem>The Omnivore's Dilemma \u003c/em>and \u003cem>In Defense of Food\u003c/em> turns his attention to how we use the four classical elements to transform plants and animals into food, and argues that home cooking can remake the American food system.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/177493377/cooked-a-natural-history-of-transformation\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/cooked-bookcover-191x290.jpg\" alt=\"Cooked - A Natural History of Transformation. by Michael Pollan\" width=\"191\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-60467\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/21/177501735/fire-water-air-earth-michael-pollan-gets-elemental-in-cooked\">NPR Books - Author Interviews\u003c/a> (4/21/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/21/177501735/fire-water-air-earth-michael-pollan-gets-elemental-in-cooked\">Weekend Edition Sunday\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In his systematic scrutiny of the modern American food chain, Michael Pollan has explored everything from the evolution of edible plants to the industrial agricultural complex. In his newest book, he charts territory closer to home — or rather, \u003cem>at\u003c/em> home, in his kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Cooked: A Natural History of Transformation\u003c/em> surveys how the four classical elements — fire, water, air and earth — transform plants and animals into food. Pollan joins NPR's Rachel Martin to discuss the merits of slow home cooking and his adventures in fermentation.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60468\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael-pollan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael-pollan-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Michael Pollan is the author of five books, including The Botany of Desire, The Omnivore's Dilemma and In Defense of Food. A longtime contributing writer to The New York Times Magazine, Pollan is also the Knight Professor of Journalism at the University of California, Berkeley. Photo: Fran Collin/Penguin Press\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60468\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Michael Pollan is the author of five books, including \u003cem>The Botany of Desire,\u003c/em> \u003cem>The Omnivore's Dilemma\u003c/em> and \u003cem>In Defense of Food\u003c/em>. A longtime contributing writer to \u003cem>The New York Times Magazine\u003c/em>, Pollan is also the Knight Professor of Journalism at the University of California, Berkeley.\u003cbr>Photo: Fran Collin/Penguin Press\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the central transformations in cooking\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I discovered that there are four central transformations that all cooking can be divided into. One is fire, the most elemental; the other is water, cooking in pots; then you've got air, which is baking, and other ways we aerate our food — very significant; and then there's earth, and earth is really fermentation, because it's cooking without the use of heat and strictly with microbes, many of which come from the earth. And I basically apprenticed myself to a master in each of those transformations.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how cooking left the kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"We kind of assume that women went back to work and there was no time to make a family meal. But it isn't that simple and it's a lot more interesting. The corporations were knocking on that door for almost 100 years. And after World War II, when they had invented all these technologies for processing food and making it shelf stable and simulating real foods with fake foods, they really pushed. And they found their opportunity with the feminist revolution beginning in the '70s. There was this really uncomfortable conversation taking place at kitchen tables all across America. Men and women were trying to renegotiate the division of labor in the household. And then the food industry recognized they had an opportunity. And they said 'Don't worry about it, we've got you covered. We'll do the cooking.' And KFC even took out a billboard with a big bucket of fried chicken and the slogan, 'Women's Liberation.'\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So I really think we need to go back and finish that difficult conversation. And I've had it, you know, with my wife, over who does what in the house, and bring men back into the kitchen. And children, which I think is really, really important ... I think the most important thing we can teach our kids for their long-term health and happiness is how to cook.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the fallacy of convenience\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Some of the foods that hold themselves out to you as supremely convenient, like those microwaveable single-portion entrees in the supermarket? I did an experiment with those. We had what we called 'Microwave Night,' where we all got to buy one of those, you know, fast-food-in-a-frozen-bag things that they now have in the supermarket. And guess what? It took 40 minutes to get that meal on the table. Because the microwave is individualistic. You can only microwave one person's entrée at a time. And you're not sharing. And there's something magical that happens when people eat from the same pot. The family meal is really the nursery of democracy. It's where we learn to share, it's where we learn to argue without offending. It's just too critical to let go, as we've been so blithely doing.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On bonding with your kids over cooking\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"[My teenage son] loved doing his homework at the island in the middle of the kitchen. And he would work while I was cooking, and he took in the smells, and he'd come over every now and then and taste what was in the pot and offer some unsolicited seasoning advice ... And the best time to connect with a teenager is when other things are going on, when you're not trying to have a face-to-face, when you're not making eye contact, basically. And so while he was doing homework and I was cooking, we had some of our sweetest times together. And then of course there was the meal.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the resurgence and process of fermentation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Fermentation is hot. Who would've thought that kimchi and sauerkraut would be trendy? [Fermentation] is essentially rot that we're kind of guiding. We can't totally control it, but we can guide it. And this, I found, was the most fascinating work I did. I mean, here you cut up a cabbage, and you salt it, and you just, you know, bruise it with your hands and you put it in a crock. And then it automatically cooks. There are already just the right bacteria living on the leaves of those cabbages, that they will, without any heat, transform that food into something more flavorful, more nutritious, more beautiful in every way.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On an unexpected 'transformation'\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I definitely spend more time cooking. I just make time for it. You know, we live in a very mediated life right now. We spend our lives in front of screens, and cooking is one of the best antidotes. And it's a democratic pleasure — all of us can do it ... This is a book about transformations, and I thought it was all about transformations of nature, but in the end it became a transformation of me, too.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "How Coffee Brings The World Together",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/001guatemala-story-006-642bc9c7d88f7d66fea7c12828ee8e7cb79d991f.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/001guatemala-story-006-642bc9c7d88f7d66fea7c12828ee8e7cb79d991f-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"The best coffee comes from high altitudes with a warm climate like in Huehuetenango, Guatemala.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60421\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/00283491757-b066156b824d5e7c38c58218cfb2a57f6a173e74.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/00283491757-b066156b824d5e7c38c58218cfb2a57f6a173e74-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"Farmers gather coffee beans in Yunnan province, China.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60426\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/003gettyimages_94646588_slide-6af1f8ba0a720d2c2864ede364b1e67ebab6b419.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/003gettyimages_94646588_slide-6af1f8ba0a720d2c2864ede364b1e67ebab6b419-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"Workers separate beans in the coffee warehouse in Girbey village in Yergachefe, Gedo zone, Ethiopia, on Friday, Dec. 7, 2007. Beyene works 8 hours a day for 6 Ethiopian birr. Every day the world consumes over 1 billion cups of coffee, generating $80 billion in annual retail sales. That makes it the most valuable traded commodity after oil. Of this, coffee growers make on average 3 cents on every $3 latte bought. Photographer: Michael Tsegaye/Bloomberg News\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60422\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/00451424381-189f5cee6b413bd2bfa2b620501c0475d2279efe.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/00451424381-189f5cee6b413bd2bfa2b620501c0475d2279efe-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"Workers clean coffee beans at the Los Ausoles coffee plantation in Ahuachapan, El Salvador. Global exports of green coffee beans are worth $15 billion a year.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60427\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/005ap9311180146_slide-82009f981fcc9805007d359d7588f3435fc7ebbb.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/005ap9311180146_slide-82009f981fcc9805007d359d7588f3435fc7ebbb-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"A woman rakes coffee beans that are drying at a coffee plant in Matagalpa, Nicaragua. Coffee is the country's top export.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60423\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/006gettyimages_111999393-15545cc0f9481a9de97312cf23500130d9d72a25.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/006gettyimages_111999393-15545cc0f9481a9de97312cf23500130d9d72a25-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"Forty percent of all coffee comes from Brazil. Here, coffee plantation workers pour sun-dried coffee beans into burlap sacks in Minas Gerais.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60424\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/007150303478-2bb487baaca099d0b50b6680da9f3383fe567e02.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/007150303478-2bb487baaca099d0b50b6680da9f3383fe567e02-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese farmers grow a species of coffee tree called robusta. It grows fast and produces a big crop, but the bean has a bitter taste. Pictured is a coffee shop in Hanoi, Vietnam.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60428\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/008q1indonesia_slide-671a0f1609e00a9e3eef76a0b64addde844c8512.jpe\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/008q1indonesia_slide-671a0f1609e00a9e3eef76a0b64addde844c8512-190x133.jpe\" alt='An Indonesian \"Starbikes\" vendor prepares coffee from his bicycle for street laborers in Jakarta.' width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60425\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/22/177975138/how-coffee-brings-the-world-together\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/22/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/22/177975138/how-coffee-brings-the-world-together\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/04/20130422_me_03.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coffee is more than a drink. For many of us — OK, for me — it's woven into the fabric of every day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also connects us to far corners of the globe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, every Friday, a truck pulls up to the warehouse of \u003ca href=\"http://counterculturecoffee.com/\">Counter Culture Coffee\u003c/a>, a small roaster and coffee distributor in Durham, N.C., and unloads a bunch of heavy burlap sacks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On any random day, that truck could bring \"10 bags from a farm in El Salvador; 20 bags from a cooperative in Burundi; two bags of a special coffee from Guatemala,\" says Kim Elena Ionescu, one of the coffee buyers for Counter Culture Coffee. She travels the world, visiting coffee farms and deciding which beans the company will buy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best coffee, she says, comes from high altitudes, but you cannot grow it in places that freeze, \"so you need that mixture of high altitude and warm climate, which makes the tropics the place to grow it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All across Latin America, Africa and Southeast Asia, people \u003ca href=\"http://www.targetmap.com/viewer.aspx?reportId=3033\">grow coffee\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In many tropical countries, especially poor ones, it's a pillar of the economy; \u003ca href=\"http://www.ico.org/prices/po.htm\">exports\u003c/a> of green coffee beans, globally, are worth $15 billion a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of these farms, Ionescu says, are idyllic places, high in the mountains. Taller trees often shade the coffee bushes. Such scenes \"hearken a little bit to coffee's homeland, which is Ethiopia,\" Ionescu says. \"Southwestern Ethiopia is really lush, it's got amazingly high altitudes, it's green, misty.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But honestly, even though there are millions of small, idyllic coffee farms, they aren't producing the majority of the world's coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most coffee isn't specialty coffee. It's just coffee: big cans of it, or instant coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forty percent of all coffee comes from Brazil, and the typical coffee farm in Brazil looks more like a corn farm in Iowa, Ionescu says — \"coffee plants as far as the eye can see, unbroken by any kind of tree.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it's time for harvest in Brazil, big machines roll through and strip off the cherrylike coffee fruit, with its valuable bean inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The second-biggest producer in the world is a surprise for many people: Vietnam. \"Not a lot of people, especially in specialty coffee, talk about Vietnam,\" says Ionescu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vietnamese farmers grow a species of coffee tree called robusta. (The scientific name is \u003cem>Coffea canephora.)\u003c/em> It grows fast and produces a big crop, but the bean has a bitter taste. It's often used in blends, especially in Europe. But high-end coffee producers like Counter Culture avoid it. They stick to another species — arabica.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is one big divide in the coffee business. On one side is \"commodity\" coffee; on the other, small companies like Counter Culture Coffee, or even big ones like Starbucks or Green Mountain Coffee Roasters, which sell coffee that's been more carefully harvested and graded. These companies market coffee \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/08/16/158932704/coffee-is-the-new-wine-heres-how-you-taste-it\">almost like wine\u003c/a>, labeling where it came from and how it tastes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Green Mountain's headquarters in Waterbury, Vt., tasters suck in mouthfuls of fresh brew, pause to reflect, then give each sample a score and talk about what their supersensitive taste buds picked up. \"Chocolate, melon, lime, subtle peach,\" says one taster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Specialty coffee like this accounts for only a small part — probably 10 or 15 percent — of the global coffee market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes, these two sides of the coffee business seem to live in different worlds. But Counter Culture Coffee's Ionescu says they sometimes come together in surprising ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You know, what's interesting to me is the large proportion of coffee growers who drink instant coffee, even on some of these idyllic hillsides in Central America,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead of drinking their own top-quality coffee, they export it to people who can pay more for it, such as Europeans or Americans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lindsey Bolger, director of coffee for Green Mountain Coffee Roasters, says if you measure the \u003ca href=\"http://chartsbin.com/view/581\">amount of coffee consumed\u003c/a> per coffee drinker, the world champions live in Nordic countries. \"Depending on which country, they're up to eight cups of coffee per person, per day. In the U.S., we're at maybe 2 or 2.5 cups of coffee per day,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Americans actually used to drink a lot more coffee. Per person, we drank almost twice as much during World War II.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People used to divide the coffee world neatly into producers, like Brazil, and consuming countries in Western Europe and North America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bolger says those clear lines are getting blurred. Brazil could soon overtake the United States to become the world's single biggest coffee-consuming country, she says, and \"we're seeing significant growth in consumption in regions like Southeast Asia, South Korea, Eastern Europe, India and the Gulf nations.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The coffee experience, it seems, is more global than ever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is the first in a series of reports for Coffee Week. Along with our friends at \u003c/em>Morning Edition,\u003cem> we're bringing you the stories behind the coffee in your cup — from the farms of Guatemala to the corner coffee shop. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Quiz at NPR:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/22/178092000/coffee-quiz-discover-the-world-in-a-cup-of-joe\">Coffee Quiz: Discover The World In A Cup Of Joe\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Coffee is social stimulant, solitary pleasure, intellectual catalyst. It also connects us to far corners of the globe. From small specialty farms in Guatemala to large, industrial operations in Brazil and unexpected corners of the world, like Vietnam, the world's morning cup of joe makes quite a journey.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/001guatemala-story-006-642bc9c7d88f7d66fea7c12828ee8e7cb79d991f.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/001guatemala-story-006-642bc9c7d88f7d66fea7c12828ee8e7cb79d991f-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"The best coffee comes from high altitudes with a warm climate like in Huehuetenango, Guatemala.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60421\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/00283491757-b066156b824d5e7c38c58218cfb2a57f6a173e74.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/00283491757-b066156b824d5e7c38c58218cfb2a57f6a173e74-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"Farmers gather coffee beans in Yunnan province, China.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60426\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/003gettyimages_94646588_slide-6af1f8ba0a720d2c2864ede364b1e67ebab6b419.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/003gettyimages_94646588_slide-6af1f8ba0a720d2c2864ede364b1e67ebab6b419-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"Workers separate beans in the coffee warehouse in Girbey village in Yergachefe, Gedo zone, Ethiopia, on Friday, Dec. 7, 2007. Beyene works 8 hours a day for 6 Ethiopian birr. Every day the world consumes over 1 billion cups of coffee, generating $80 billion in annual retail sales. That makes it the most valuable traded commodity after oil. Of this, coffee growers make on average 3 cents on every $3 latte bought. Photographer: Michael Tsegaye/Bloomberg News\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60422\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/00451424381-189f5cee6b413bd2bfa2b620501c0475d2279efe.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/00451424381-189f5cee6b413bd2bfa2b620501c0475d2279efe-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"Workers clean coffee beans at the Los Ausoles coffee plantation in Ahuachapan, El Salvador. Global exports of green coffee beans are worth $15 billion a year.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60427\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/005ap9311180146_slide-82009f981fcc9805007d359d7588f3435fc7ebbb.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/005ap9311180146_slide-82009f981fcc9805007d359d7588f3435fc7ebbb-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"A woman rakes coffee beans that are drying at a coffee plant in Matagalpa, Nicaragua. Coffee is the country's top export.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60423\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/006gettyimages_111999393-15545cc0f9481a9de97312cf23500130d9d72a25.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/006gettyimages_111999393-15545cc0f9481a9de97312cf23500130d9d72a25-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"Forty percent of all coffee comes from Brazil. Here, coffee plantation workers pour sun-dried coffee beans into burlap sacks in Minas Gerais.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60424\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/007150303478-2bb487baaca099d0b50b6680da9f3383fe567e02.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/007150303478-2bb487baaca099d0b50b6680da9f3383fe567e02-190x133.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese farmers grow a species of coffee tree called robusta. It grows fast and produces a big crop, but the bean has a bitter taste. Pictured is a coffee shop in Hanoi, Vietnam.\" width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60428\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/008q1indonesia_slide-671a0f1609e00a9e3eef76a0b64addde844c8512.jpe\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/008q1indonesia_slide-671a0f1609e00a9e3eef76a0b64addde844c8512-190x133.jpe\" alt='An Indonesian \"Starbikes\" vendor prepares coffee from his bicycle for street laborers in Jakarta.' width=\"190\" height=\"133\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60425\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/22/177975138/how-coffee-brings-the-world-together\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/22/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/22/177975138/how-coffee-brings-the-world-together\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coffee is more than a drink. For many of us — OK, for me — it's woven into the fabric of every day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also connects us to far corners of the globe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, every Friday, a truck pulls up to the warehouse of \u003ca href=\"http://counterculturecoffee.com/\">Counter Culture Coffee\u003c/a>, a small roaster and coffee distributor in Durham, N.C., and unloads a bunch of heavy burlap sacks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On any random day, that truck could bring \"10 bags from a farm in El Salvador; 20 bags from a cooperative in Burundi; two bags of a special coffee from Guatemala,\" says Kim Elena Ionescu, one of the coffee buyers for Counter Culture Coffee. She travels the world, visiting coffee farms and deciding which beans the company will buy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best coffee, she says, comes from high altitudes, but you cannot grow it in places that freeze, \"so you need that mixture of high altitude and warm climate, which makes the tropics the place to grow it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All across Latin America, Africa and Southeast Asia, people \u003ca href=\"http://www.targetmap.com/viewer.aspx?reportId=3033\">grow coffee\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In many tropical countries, especially poor ones, it's a pillar of the economy; \u003ca href=\"http://www.ico.org/prices/po.htm\">exports\u003c/a> of green coffee beans, globally, are worth $15 billion a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of these farms, Ionescu says, are idyllic places, high in the mountains. Taller trees often shade the coffee bushes. Such scenes \"hearken a little bit to coffee's homeland, which is Ethiopia,\" Ionescu says. \"Southwestern Ethiopia is really lush, it's got amazingly high altitudes, it's green, misty.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But honestly, even though there are millions of small, idyllic coffee farms, they aren't producing the majority of the world's coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most coffee isn't specialty coffee. It's just coffee: big cans of it, or instant coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forty percent of all coffee comes from Brazil, and the typical coffee farm in Brazil looks more like a corn farm in Iowa, Ionescu says — \"coffee plants as far as the eye can see, unbroken by any kind of tree.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it's time for harvest in Brazil, big machines roll through and strip off the cherrylike coffee fruit, with its valuable bean inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The second-biggest producer in the world is a surprise for many people: Vietnam. \"Not a lot of people, especially in specialty coffee, talk about Vietnam,\" says Ionescu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vietnamese farmers grow a species of coffee tree called robusta. (The scientific name is \u003cem>Coffea canephora.)\u003c/em> It grows fast and produces a big crop, but the bean has a bitter taste. It's often used in blends, especially in Europe. But high-end coffee producers like Counter Culture avoid it. They stick to another species — arabica.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is one big divide in the coffee business. On one side is \"commodity\" coffee; on the other, small companies like Counter Culture Coffee, or even big ones like Starbucks or Green Mountain Coffee Roasters, which sell coffee that's been more carefully harvested and graded. These companies market coffee \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/08/16/158932704/coffee-is-the-new-wine-heres-how-you-taste-it\">almost like wine\u003c/a>, labeling where it came from and how it tastes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Green Mountain's headquarters in Waterbury, Vt., tasters suck in mouthfuls of fresh brew, pause to reflect, then give each sample a score and talk about what their supersensitive taste buds picked up. \"Chocolate, melon, lime, subtle peach,\" says one taster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Specialty coffee like this accounts for only a small part — probably 10 or 15 percent — of the global coffee market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes, these two sides of the coffee business seem to live in different worlds. But Counter Culture Coffee's Ionescu says they sometimes come together in surprising ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You know, what's interesting to me is the large proportion of coffee growers who drink instant coffee, even on some of these idyllic hillsides in Central America,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead of drinking their own top-quality coffee, they export it to people who can pay more for it, such as Europeans or Americans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lindsey Bolger, director of coffee for Green Mountain Coffee Roasters, says if you measure the \u003ca href=\"http://chartsbin.com/view/581\">amount of coffee consumed\u003c/a> per coffee drinker, the world champions live in Nordic countries. \"Depending on which country, they're up to eight cups of coffee per person, per day. In the U.S., we're at maybe 2 or 2.5 cups of coffee per day,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Americans actually used to drink a lot more coffee. Per person, we drank almost twice as much during World War II.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People used to divide the coffee world neatly into producers, like Brazil, and consuming countries in Western Europe and North America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bolger says those clear lines are getting blurred. Brazil could soon overtake the United States to become the world's single biggest coffee-consuming country, she says, and \"we're seeing significant growth in consumption in regions like Southeast Asia, South Korea, Eastern Europe, India and the Gulf nations.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The coffee experience, it seems, is more global than ever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is the first in a series of reports for Coffee Week. Along with our friends at \u003c/em>Morning Edition,\u003cem> we're bringing you the stories behind the coffee in your cup — from the farms of Guatemala to the corner coffee shop. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Quiz at NPR:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/22/178092000/coffee-quiz-discover-the-world-in-a-cup-of-joe\">Coffee Quiz: Discover The World In A Cup Of Joe\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "A 'Charleston Kitchen' Full Of Foraged And Forgotten Foods",
"title": "A 'Charleston Kitchen' Full Of Foraged And Forgotten Foods",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60344\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Lee-brothers.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Lee-brothers-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Lee (left) and Ted Lee (right) grew up in Charleston, S.C. After leaving the South as young adults, they founded a mail-order food company, The Lee Bros. Boiled Peanut Catalogue. They have written two previous cookbooks of Southern cuisine. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60344\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Lee (left) and Ted Lee (right) grew up in Charleston, S.C. After leaving the South as young adults, they founded a mail-order food company, The Lee Bros. Boiled Peanut Catalogue. They have written two previous cookbooks of Southern cuisine. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/18/177367797/a-charleston-kitchen-full-of-foraged-and-forgotten-foods\">All Things Considered\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/04/20130418_atc_15.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/18/177367797/a-charleston-kitchen-full-of-foraged-and-forgotten-foods\">NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/18/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A new cookbook by the Lee brothers just might inspire daydreams of a food-centric vacation to South Carolina. It's called \u003cem>The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen\u003c/em>, and in it, Matt and Ted Lee feature recipes and stories from the Southern port city they grew up in. The brothers joined NPR's Melissa Block to talk about Charleston's distinctive food culture, starting with the dishes that they'd put on a typical Charleston menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would start with kumquat sparklers, with the flavor of backyard kumquats, which are like tangerines,\" Matt says. \"Also, classic Charleston cheese biscuits with a single pecan pressed into it, and savory benne wafers — sesame seed wafers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/177362137/the-lee-bros-charleston-kitchen\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-bookcover.jpg\" alt=\"The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen\" width=\"300\" height=\"314\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-60345\">\u003c/a>For the second course, Ted says, \"we'd do a she-crab soup, and then we'd do a shrimp and grits,\" he says. \"For vegetables, I think this is the perfect time to do chainey briar; it's growing really well out on Sullivan's Island. We'd do some \u003ca href=\"#briar\">Grilled Chainey Briar\u003c/a>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Chainey briar is a native weed or vine,\" Ted explains. \"It's \u003cem>Smilax\u003c/em> botanically. It's something that grows on fence lines, it grows on sand dunes at the beaches and it has, in the spring right about now, a tender tip, a shoot that is delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It looks, quite frankly, like a weed, and might be a bit of an acquired taste — but the brothers say it's worth acquiring. \"It's pretty rangy, and that's the appeal, in terms of flavor,\" Matt says. It tastes like asparagus but with this extra sort of reckless green thing. Sometimes we describe it as tasting like asparagus with olive oil already on it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dessert, the brothers would serve \u003ca href=\"#torte\">Huguenot Torte\u003c/a>, an iconic Charleston dish. \"Hugeonot torte has this nice meringue-like crisp top, but then a sludgy caramel and apple and pecan bottom to it,\" Matt says. \"It's got flour but tons of leavening — so it just puffs up in the oven, then collapses and creates this very interesting and uniquely Charleston dessert.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Southern Food With Less Pork And More Loquats\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Lee brothers, who were born in New York but grew up in Charleston, have written two previous cookbooks highlighting Southern cuisine. This is their first to focus just on the city of their youth, and their choice is more than just hometown favoritism: Charleston's culinary tradition is unusual, with dishes and traditions you won't find in other parts of the South.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's naturally about the seafood and also about the poultry,\" Matt explains. \"The much-heralded, like, 'porkopolis' of the South doesn't really exist so much in Charleston, because it was never a place to raise cattle or pigs, being so marshy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not just the meat that makes Charleston stand out; there's also a rich variety of local produce. \"I think another thing that visitors to Charleston are surprised by is just how close the farms are — the rural part of Charleston — to the city,\" Ted says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might not even need to find a farmer to get fresh food. \"Even downtown — we grew up downtown in the historic district — we're surrounded by fruits of all kinds, like kumquats, loquats, mulberries, figs, pomegranates, bananas, citrus,\" Ted says. \"They all grow downtown, and you grow up sort of knowing where the trees are and which ones taste best.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Call it \"foraging\" or call it \"stealing,\" snagging fruit off someone else's tree is certainly possible in Charleston. \"There are a lot of secrets in back alleys in Charleston that yield great fruits and herbs.\" The trick to harvesting that bounty without ruining your neighborly relations? \"Be very polite,\" Ted says — and, Matt adds, be sure to smile. \"That's awfully disarming,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Taking Cues From The Past\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to highlighting Charleston's current food culture, Matt and Ted Lee also looked to Charleston's history to find old recipes that might have been forgotten. Cookbooks from the 19th century were particularly inspiring, Ted says. \"They tell a story so diverse and varied about the different types of vegetables that were grown in the low country, some of which are rarely found, like salsify, tania — it's a root vegetable,\" he says. \"It's nice to be able to draw from the past to inform your kitchen in the present.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One recipe in the new cookbook comes from an even more distant past — a dessert from the 1700s called \u003ca href=\"#syllabub\">Syllabub\u003c/a>. \"Despite the fact that it appears in all the old cookbooks, Matt and I have never been served it — either in a Charleston restaurant or a Charleston home,\" Ted says. \"So we just tried it ourselves. It's basically very simple — it's fortified wine that's been seasoned with lemon juice and lemon peel, a little bit of sugar, sometimes spices, and whipped with cream until it's sort of this airy, fluffy, alcoholic whipped cream that goes really well with fruit.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you want to follow Matt and Ted and take a stab at Syllabub, a recipe is below, as well as recipes for Huguenot Torte and Grilled Chainey Briar. But be warned: You might need to plan a trip to Charleston to enjoy that chainey briar. You won't find it in grocery stores or farmers markets, and will have better luck harvesting it yourself. Like fresh kumquats off the tree or oysters from the ocean, it's a location-bound delicacy. As Matt Lee, who lives in Charleston today, puts it, \"it's just one of those things that you have to live here to really appreciate.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"briar\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Grilled Chainey Briar\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60346\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-chaineybriar.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-chaineybriar-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"Chainey briar grows wild around Charleston, S.C. Photo: Matt Lee and Ted Lee/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60346\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chainey briar grows wild around Charleston, S.C. Photo: Matt Lee and Ted Lee/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chainey briar is what Charlestonians of a certain age call the tender shoots of the smilax (aka cat briar) vine, which can be found growing in the dunes and along sandy fence lines throughout the area. The distinctive spade-shaped leaves distinguish smilax from other vines growing in the same terrain. When raw, chainey briar has a delicious asparagus-and-olive-oil flavor that is fresh and green; lightly cooked, it is even more appetizing and tender. Chainey briar appears most often in community cookbooks of the rural sea islands, like Edisto and Yonge's.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most chainey briar found among the dunes or in metropolitan Charleston are thin, curly tendrils, although our friend Tom, who gentleman-farms on Johns Island, recently introduced us to \"bull briar,\" the thicker sprouts of mature smilax vines that grow in the forested areas of the sea islands. Bull briar, which truly resembles large asparagus, would seem to represent more vegetable for one's effort, but it is found so high in the trees that a pole pruner is usually required to harvest it. We're just as happy to spend the afternoon on a path to the beach, eating every third tendril we pick, until the basket is full.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chainey briar almost never appears in the farmer's markets, so you must forage for it yourself (or ingratiate yourself to farmer Sidi Limehouse [see page 94 of The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen], who will occasionally indulge good friends with a basketful). Its flavor is robust enough that it grills well, wilting and charring in places. Dressed with oil and lemon, it makes for an exciting side dish with pre-colonial roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound chainey briar\u003cbr>1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the pan\u003cbr>Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Thoroughly wash the chainey briar, removing any ants or foreign matter and pinching off the stem ends (which will toughen as they age) so only the tender parts remain. Toss the chainey briar in a large bowl with the olive oil to coat, scatter 1/2 teaspoon salt over the bowl, and toss again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Lightly oil a grill pan, and place it over high heat. When a drop of water sizzles when dropped on the pan, spread the chainey briar in an even layer about 1/2 inch high (you may have to grill multiple batches, depending on the size of your pan). Allow the chainey briar to sizzle and pop for a minute or two, until the tips of some begin to blacken. Use tongs to shuffle the chainey briar on the grill pan and allow them to cook a minute or two more, until almost all the fronds show signs of wilting. Reserve the chainey briar in a large covered bowl as you move on to grill another batch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. When all the chainey briar is wilted and charred, dress it with the lemon juice, toss lightly, and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"torte\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Huguenot Torte\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60347\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothershuguenot-torte.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothershuguenot-torte-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"Huguenot torte has gooey caramel beneath a crackly top Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60347\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Huguenot torte has gooey caramel beneath a crackly top Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves: 6 to 8\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem>Time: 55 minutes, 10 minutes cooling\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine that a blondie and an apple-pecan pie got into a crusty-gooey, sticky-delicious accident in a baking dish, and you'll approximate the ultra-decadence of this dessert. Until relatively recently, Charlestonians believed that this confection, as the title might suggest, came to Charleston with the French Huguenots, who settled in the city in the eighteenth century, and that it was a rustic cousin of elegant pâtisseries. But in the 1990s, the culinary historian and Lowcountry native John Martin Taylor tracked down the woman to whom the recipe is attributed in Charleston Receipts, and learned that she'd encountered the dish as \"Ozark Pudding\" while visiting relatives in Arkansas in the 1940s. She had brought the recipe back to Charleston, and put the dessert on the menu of the Huguenot Tavern, where she was a cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that this dessert has become as much an icon of Charleston home cooking as Charleston Okra Soup [see page 74 of The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen] and She-Crab Soup [page 77] seems odd — but it's all part of \"Charleston's food pattern,\" as May A. Pyatt wrote in a 1950 review of Charleston Receipts in the News and Courier. Another interesting note: not many Charleston restaurants these days offer the torte — or even variants upon it — but it is almost always offered on menus at the tea rooms [see page 79] that open in the spring throughout the area. You should master it yourself; it's easy to make and easy to eat, and nice to have in your repertoire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we're serving this dish for guests, we often temper its sweetness by whipping a small amount of buttermilk or sour cream into the whipped cream garnish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>unsalted butter for greasing the dish\u003cbr>2 large eggs\u003cbr>1 1/3 cups sugar\u003cbr>1/4 cup all-purpose flour\u003cbr>2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder\u003cbr>1/4 teaspoon kosher salt\u003cbr>1 Granny Smith or other tart apple, cored, peeled, and diced (1 cup)\u003cbr>1 cup chopped pecans\u003cbr>1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003cbr>1/2 cup heavy cream\u003cbr>2 tablespoons whole buttermilk or sour cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Grease a 2-quart baking dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with a whisk until they're creamy and frothy. Add the sugar, flour, baking powder, salt, apple, pecans, and vanilla, whisking to combine after each addition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Pour the batter into the prepared baking dish and bake for 45 minutes, or until the top of the torte is crusty. Remove the torte from the oven and let cool for about 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Whip the cream with the buttermilk until stiff peaks form. Cut into individual portions — they will be lumpen and misshapen, with shards of crust and spoonfuls of ooze, but no matter — and serve with dollops of the whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"syllabub\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Syllabub With Rosemary-Glazed Figs\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60343\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 666px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-syllabub.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-syllabub.jpg\" alt=\"Syllabub is a traditional dessert featuring sherry, cream and sugar. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"666\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60343\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Syllabub is a traditional dessert featuring sherry, cream and sugar. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves: 4 \u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem>Time: 1 hour 15 minutes, including chilling\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Syllabub\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup Sercial Madeira or Amontillado sherry\u003cbr>Peel of 1/2 lemon\u003cbr>1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice\u003cbr>1 1/2 tablespoons sugar\u003cbr>Pinch of kosher salt\u003cbr>1 cup heavy cream, cold\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rosemary-glazed figs\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup sugar\u003cbr>2 (3-inch) long sprigs rosemary\u003cbr>Pinch of kosher salt\u003cbr>4 ounces fresh figs (about 4 large), stemmed and quartered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Make the syllabub: Put all syllabub ingredients except for the cream into a large bowl, and whisk until the sugar has dissolved, about a minute. Let stand in the fridge, about 1 hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Make the rosemary-glazed figs: Heat the sugar and 1/4 cup of water in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Add the rosemary and the salt, stir for about 30 seconds to dissolve the salt and bruise the rosemary, and turn off the heat. Cover and let cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3\u003cstrong>. \u003c/strong>Put the figs in a small bowl, drizzle 2 to 3 tablespoons of the rosemary syrup over them, and toss gently to coat. (If the figs are less than ripe, let them stand in the syrup for 30 minutes to sweeten.) Reserve the remaining syrup for another use, such as sweetening lemonade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Remove the lemon peel from the wine mixture. Pour the cream into the wine and whisk by hand until the cream is thick and holds its shape, about 2 minutes. Divide the syllabub among four wine glasses or sundae cups and spoon the rosemary-glazed figs over each serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Syllabub with Strawberries and Black Pepper\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a springtime variation on Syllabub with Rosemary-Glazed Figs, make Syllabub with Strawberries and Black Pepper. Simply substitute for the rosemary-glazed figs 4 ounces strawberries that have been quartered and tossed a few times with sugar to taste (a teaspoon or two) until the sugar has dissolved. (Add a few drops water, if needed, to dissolve). Spoon the strawberries over each serving of Syllabub, then grind a bit of black pepper over the top of each and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes from \u003c/em>The Lee Bros. Charleston Cookbook\u003cem> by Matt Lee and Ted Lee. Copyright 2013 by Matt Lee and Ted Lee. Excerpted by permission of Clarkson Potter, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>More on the Lee Bros.\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=125832027\">Classic Southern Food Gets A Makeover\u003c/a> (NPR Food)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=6650215\">Recipes That Passed a Cookbook Critic's Test\u003c/a> (Kitchen Window, NPR Food)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The Lee brothers, Matt and Ted, have written two cookbooks about Southern cuisine, but now they've turned their attention to a more specific region: Charleston, the city they grew up in. Their new book contains recipes and stories from a seafood-centric community with a rich culinary history.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60344\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Lee-brothers.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Lee-brothers-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Lee (left) and Ted Lee (right) grew up in Charleston, S.C. After leaving the South as young adults, they founded a mail-order food company, The Lee Bros. Boiled Peanut Catalogue. They have written two previous cookbooks of Southern cuisine. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60344\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Lee (left) and Ted Lee (right) grew up in Charleston, S.C. After leaving the South as young adults, they founded a mail-order food company, The Lee Bros. Boiled Peanut Catalogue. They have written two previous cookbooks of Southern cuisine. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/18/177367797/a-charleston-kitchen-full-of-foraged-and-forgotten-foods\">All Things Considered\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/18/177367797/a-charleston-kitchen-full-of-foraged-and-forgotten-foods\">NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/18/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A new cookbook by the Lee brothers just might inspire daydreams of a food-centric vacation to South Carolina. It's called \u003cem>The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen\u003c/em>, and in it, Matt and Ted Lee feature recipes and stories from the Southern port city they grew up in. The brothers joined NPR's Melissa Block to talk about Charleston's distinctive food culture, starting with the dishes that they'd put on a typical Charleston menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would start with kumquat sparklers, with the flavor of backyard kumquats, which are like tangerines,\" Matt says. \"Also, classic Charleston cheese biscuits with a single pecan pressed into it, and savory benne wafers — sesame seed wafers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/177362137/the-lee-bros-charleston-kitchen\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-bookcover.jpg\" alt=\"The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen\" width=\"300\" height=\"314\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-60345\">\u003c/a>For the second course, Ted says, \"we'd do a she-crab soup, and then we'd do a shrimp and grits,\" he says. \"For vegetables, I think this is the perfect time to do chainey briar; it's growing really well out on Sullivan's Island. We'd do some \u003ca href=\"#briar\">Grilled Chainey Briar\u003c/a>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Chainey briar is a native weed or vine,\" Ted explains. \"It's \u003cem>Smilax\u003c/em> botanically. It's something that grows on fence lines, it grows on sand dunes at the beaches and it has, in the spring right about now, a tender tip, a shoot that is delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It looks, quite frankly, like a weed, and might be a bit of an acquired taste — but the brothers say it's worth acquiring. \"It's pretty rangy, and that's the appeal, in terms of flavor,\" Matt says. It tastes like asparagus but with this extra sort of reckless green thing. Sometimes we describe it as tasting like asparagus with olive oil already on it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dessert, the brothers would serve \u003ca href=\"#torte\">Huguenot Torte\u003c/a>, an iconic Charleston dish. \"Hugeonot torte has this nice meringue-like crisp top, but then a sludgy caramel and apple and pecan bottom to it,\" Matt says. \"It's got flour but tons of leavening — so it just puffs up in the oven, then collapses and creates this very interesting and uniquely Charleston dessert.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Southern Food With Less Pork And More Loquats\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Lee brothers, who were born in New York but grew up in Charleston, have written two previous cookbooks highlighting Southern cuisine. This is their first to focus just on the city of their youth, and their choice is more than just hometown favoritism: Charleston's culinary tradition is unusual, with dishes and traditions you won't find in other parts of the South.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's naturally about the seafood and also about the poultry,\" Matt explains. \"The much-heralded, like, 'porkopolis' of the South doesn't really exist so much in Charleston, because it was never a place to raise cattle or pigs, being so marshy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not just the meat that makes Charleston stand out; there's also a rich variety of local produce. \"I think another thing that visitors to Charleston are surprised by is just how close the farms are — the rural part of Charleston — to the city,\" Ted says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might not even need to find a farmer to get fresh food. \"Even downtown — we grew up downtown in the historic district — we're surrounded by fruits of all kinds, like kumquats, loquats, mulberries, figs, pomegranates, bananas, citrus,\" Ted says. \"They all grow downtown, and you grow up sort of knowing where the trees are and which ones taste best.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Call it \"foraging\" or call it \"stealing,\" snagging fruit off someone else's tree is certainly possible in Charleston. \"There are a lot of secrets in back alleys in Charleston that yield great fruits and herbs.\" The trick to harvesting that bounty without ruining your neighborly relations? \"Be very polite,\" Ted says — and, Matt adds, be sure to smile. \"That's awfully disarming,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Taking Cues From The Past\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to highlighting Charleston's current food culture, Matt and Ted Lee also looked to Charleston's history to find old recipes that might have been forgotten. Cookbooks from the 19th century were particularly inspiring, Ted says. \"They tell a story so diverse and varied about the different types of vegetables that were grown in the low country, some of which are rarely found, like salsify, tania — it's a root vegetable,\" he says. \"It's nice to be able to draw from the past to inform your kitchen in the present.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One recipe in the new cookbook comes from an even more distant past — a dessert from the 1700s called \u003ca href=\"#syllabub\">Syllabub\u003c/a>. \"Despite the fact that it appears in all the old cookbooks, Matt and I have never been served it — either in a Charleston restaurant or a Charleston home,\" Ted says. \"So we just tried it ourselves. It's basically very simple — it's fortified wine that's been seasoned with lemon juice and lemon peel, a little bit of sugar, sometimes spices, and whipped with cream until it's sort of this airy, fluffy, alcoholic whipped cream that goes really well with fruit.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you want to follow Matt and Ted and take a stab at Syllabub, a recipe is below, as well as recipes for Huguenot Torte and Grilled Chainey Briar. But be warned: You might need to plan a trip to Charleston to enjoy that chainey briar. You won't find it in grocery stores or farmers markets, and will have better luck harvesting it yourself. Like fresh kumquats off the tree or oysters from the ocean, it's a location-bound delicacy. As Matt Lee, who lives in Charleston today, puts it, \"it's just one of those things that you have to live here to really appreciate.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"briar\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Grilled Chainey Briar\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60346\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-chaineybriar.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-chaineybriar-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"Chainey briar grows wild around Charleston, S.C. Photo: Matt Lee and Ted Lee/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60346\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chainey briar grows wild around Charleston, S.C. Photo: Matt Lee and Ted Lee/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chainey briar is what Charlestonians of a certain age call the tender shoots of the smilax (aka cat briar) vine, which can be found growing in the dunes and along sandy fence lines throughout the area. The distinctive spade-shaped leaves distinguish smilax from other vines growing in the same terrain. When raw, chainey briar has a delicious asparagus-and-olive-oil flavor that is fresh and green; lightly cooked, it is even more appetizing and tender. Chainey briar appears most often in community cookbooks of the rural sea islands, like Edisto and Yonge's.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most chainey briar found among the dunes or in metropolitan Charleston are thin, curly tendrils, although our friend Tom, who gentleman-farms on Johns Island, recently introduced us to \"bull briar,\" the thicker sprouts of mature smilax vines that grow in the forested areas of the sea islands. Bull briar, which truly resembles large asparagus, would seem to represent more vegetable for one's effort, but it is found so high in the trees that a pole pruner is usually required to harvest it. We're just as happy to spend the afternoon on a path to the beach, eating every third tendril we pick, until the basket is full.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chainey briar almost never appears in the farmer's markets, so you must forage for it yourself (or ingratiate yourself to farmer Sidi Limehouse [see page 94 of The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen], who will occasionally indulge good friends with a basketful). Its flavor is robust enough that it grills well, wilting and charring in places. Dressed with oil and lemon, it makes for an exciting side dish with pre-colonial roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound chainey briar\u003cbr>1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the pan\u003cbr>Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Thoroughly wash the chainey briar, removing any ants or foreign matter and pinching off the stem ends (which will toughen as they age) so only the tender parts remain. Toss the chainey briar in a large bowl with the olive oil to coat, scatter 1/2 teaspoon salt over the bowl, and toss again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Lightly oil a grill pan, and place it over high heat. When a drop of water sizzles when dropped on the pan, spread the chainey briar in an even layer about 1/2 inch high (you may have to grill multiple batches, depending on the size of your pan). Allow the chainey briar to sizzle and pop for a minute or two, until the tips of some begin to blacken. Use tongs to shuffle the chainey briar on the grill pan and allow them to cook a minute or two more, until almost all the fronds show signs of wilting. Reserve the chainey briar in a large covered bowl as you move on to grill another batch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. When all the chainey briar is wilted and charred, dress it with the lemon juice, toss lightly, and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"torte\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Huguenot Torte\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60347\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothershuguenot-torte.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothershuguenot-torte-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"Huguenot torte has gooey caramel beneath a crackly top Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-60347\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Huguenot torte has gooey caramel beneath a crackly top Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves: 6 to 8\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem>Time: 55 minutes, 10 minutes cooling\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine that a blondie and an apple-pecan pie got into a crusty-gooey, sticky-delicious accident in a baking dish, and you'll approximate the ultra-decadence of this dessert. Until relatively recently, Charlestonians believed that this confection, as the title might suggest, came to Charleston with the French Huguenots, who settled in the city in the eighteenth century, and that it was a rustic cousin of elegant pâtisseries. But in the 1990s, the culinary historian and Lowcountry native John Martin Taylor tracked down the woman to whom the recipe is attributed in Charleston Receipts, and learned that she'd encountered the dish as \"Ozark Pudding\" while visiting relatives in Arkansas in the 1940s. She had brought the recipe back to Charleston, and put the dessert on the menu of the Huguenot Tavern, where she was a cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that this dessert has become as much an icon of Charleston home cooking as Charleston Okra Soup [see page 74 of The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen] and She-Crab Soup [page 77] seems odd — but it's all part of \"Charleston's food pattern,\" as May A. Pyatt wrote in a 1950 review of Charleston Receipts in the News and Courier. Another interesting note: not many Charleston restaurants these days offer the torte — or even variants upon it — but it is almost always offered on menus at the tea rooms [see page 79] that open in the spring throughout the area. You should master it yourself; it's easy to make and easy to eat, and nice to have in your repertoire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we're serving this dish for guests, we often temper its sweetness by whipping a small amount of buttermilk or sour cream into the whipped cream garnish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>unsalted butter for greasing the dish\u003cbr>2 large eggs\u003cbr>1 1/3 cups sugar\u003cbr>1/4 cup all-purpose flour\u003cbr>2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder\u003cbr>1/4 teaspoon kosher salt\u003cbr>1 Granny Smith or other tart apple, cored, peeled, and diced (1 cup)\u003cbr>1 cup chopped pecans\u003cbr>1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003cbr>1/2 cup heavy cream\u003cbr>2 tablespoons whole buttermilk or sour cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Grease a 2-quart baking dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with a whisk until they're creamy and frothy. Add the sugar, flour, baking powder, salt, apple, pecans, and vanilla, whisking to combine after each addition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Pour the batter into the prepared baking dish and bake for 45 minutes, or until the top of the torte is crusty. Remove the torte from the oven and let cool for about 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Whip the cream with the buttermilk until stiff peaks form. Cut into individual portions — they will be lumpen and misshapen, with shards of crust and spoonfuls of ooze, but no matter — and serve with dollops of the whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"syllabub\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Syllabub With Rosemary-Glazed Figs\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60343\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 666px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-syllabub.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lee-brothers-syllabub.jpg\" alt=\"Syllabub is a traditional dessert featuring sherry, cream and sugar. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\" width=\"666\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60343\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Syllabub is a traditional dessert featuring sherry, cream and sugar. Photo: Squire Fox/Clarkson Potter\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves: 4 \u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem>Time: 1 hour 15 minutes, including chilling\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Syllabub\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup Sercial Madeira or Amontillado sherry\u003cbr>Peel of 1/2 lemon\u003cbr>1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice\u003cbr>1 1/2 tablespoons sugar\u003cbr>Pinch of kosher salt\u003cbr>1 cup heavy cream, cold\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rosemary-glazed figs\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup sugar\u003cbr>2 (3-inch) long sprigs rosemary\u003cbr>Pinch of kosher salt\u003cbr>4 ounces fresh figs (about 4 large), stemmed and quartered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Make the syllabub: Put all syllabub ingredients except for the cream into a large bowl, and whisk until the sugar has dissolved, about a minute. Let stand in the fridge, about 1 hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Make the rosemary-glazed figs: Heat the sugar and 1/4 cup of water in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Add the rosemary and the salt, stir for about 30 seconds to dissolve the salt and bruise the rosemary, and turn off the heat. Cover and let cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3\u003cstrong>. \u003c/strong>Put the figs in a small bowl, drizzle 2 to 3 tablespoons of the rosemary syrup over them, and toss gently to coat. (If the figs are less than ripe, let them stand in the syrup for 30 minutes to sweeten.) Reserve the remaining syrup for another use, such as sweetening lemonade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Remove the lemon peel from the wine mixture. Pour the cream into the wine and whisk by hand until the cream is thick and holds its shape, about 2 minutes. Divide the syllabub among four wine glasses or sundae cups and spoon the rosemary-glazed figs over each serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Syllabub with Strawberries and Black Pepper\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a springtime variation on Syllabub with Rosemary-Glazed Figs, make Syllabub with Strawberries and Black Pepper. Simply substitute for the rosemary-glazed figs 4 ounces strawberries that have been quartered and tossed a few times with sugar to taste (a teaspoon or two) until the sugar has dissolved. (Add a few drops water, if needed, to dissolve). Spoon the strawberries over each serving of Syllabub, then grind a bit of black pepper over the top of each and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes from \u003c/em>The Lee Bros. Charleston Cookbook\u003cem> by Matt Lee and Ted Lee. Copyright 2013 by Matt Lee and Ted Lee. Excerpted by permission of Clarkson Potter, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>More on the Lee Bros.\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=125832027\">Classic Southern Food Gets A Makeover\u003c/a> (NPR Food)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=6650215\">Recipes That Passed a Cookbook Critic's Test\u003c/a> (Kitchen Window, NPR Food)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60154\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 248px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/MaryRoach2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/MaryRoach2.jpg\" alt=\"Mary Roach. Photo: Wikimedia Commons\" width=\"248\" height=\"140\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60154\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mary Roach. Photo: Wikimedia Commons\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201304171000\">Original Broadcast\u003c/a>:\u003cbr>\nWednesday, Apr 17, 2013 -- 10:00 AM\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/forum/2013/04/20130417bforum.mp3\"] \u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.maryroach.net/gulp.html\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Gulp-cover-350.jpg\" alt=\"Gulp-cover-350\" width=\"100\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-60156\">\u003c/a>How does saliva work? Why doesn't your stomach digest itself? And did constipation really kill Elvis? In her new book \"Gulp: Adventures on the Alimentary Canal,\" Mary Roach chronicles the surprisingly exciting journey that food undertakes in the human body. Roach joins KQED's Forum to talk about everything you ever wanted to know -- or might be disgusted to know -- about the digestive process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Host:\u003c/strong> Michael Krasny\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Guest:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>Mary Roach, author of \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.maryroach.net/gulp.html\">Gulp\u003c/a>\" and other books including \"Stiff,\" \"Spook,\" \"Bonk\" and \"Packing for Mars\"\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>More info:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.maryroach.net/\">About Mary Roach (MaryRoach.net)\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/01/175381702/in-digestion-mary-roach-explains-what-happens-to-the-food-we-eat\">Mary Roach on NPR's \"Fresh Air\"\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.maryroach.net/gulp.html\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Gulp-cover-350.jpg\" alt=\"Gulp-cover-350\" width=\"100\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-60156\">\u003c/a>How does saliva work? Why doesn't your stomach digest itself? And did constipation really kill Elvis? In her new book \"Gulp: Adventures on the Alimentary Canal,\" Mary Roach chronicles the surprisingly exciting journey that food undertakes in the human body. Roach joins KQED's Forum to talk about everything you ever wanted to know -- or might be disgusted to know -- about the digestive process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Host:\u003c/strong> Michael Krasny\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Guest:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>Mary Roach, author of \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.maryroach.net/gulp.html\">Gulp\u003c/a>\" and other books including \"Stiff,\" \"Spook,\" \"Bonk\" and \"Packing for Mars\"\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>More info:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.maryroach.net/\">About Mary Roach (MaryRoach.net)\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/01/175381702/in-digestion-mary-roach-explains-what-happens-to-the-food-we-eat\">Mary Roach on NPR's \"Fresh Air\"\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59909\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 248px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/RedWine.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/RedWine.jpg\" alt=\"Red Wine. Photo: Getty Images\" width=\"248\" height=\"140\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59909\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Red Wine. Photo: Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to KQED's Forum: Wine Demystified\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201304121000\">Original Broadcast\u003c/a>:\u003cbr>\nFriday, Apr 12, 2013 -- 10:00 AM\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/forum/2013/04/20130412bforum.mp3\"] \u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Are you easily intimidated by snobby sommeliers? Flummoxed by phone-book-thick restaurant wine lists? Help is on the way. KQED's Forum convenes a panel of Bay Area wine connoisseurs to talk about how to pour and taste wine, and how to select the perfect bottle at a store or restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Host:\u003c/strong> Scott Shafer\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Guests:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>Debbie Zachareas, owner/partner of Ferry Plaza Wine and Oxbow Wine Merchant\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Doug Tomlinson, CEO of Vino Volo airport wine bars and shops (serving SFO), headquartered in San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/section/jon-bonne/\">Jon Bonne\u003c/a>, wine editor for The San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>More info:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/checkplease/category/wine-tips/\">Wine Tips from Leslie Sbrocco\u003c/a> (Check Please! Bay Area)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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