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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69056\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tacobell-protest.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tacobell-protest.jpg\" alt=\"Outside a Taco Bell restaurant in Warren, Mich., early Thursday, supporters of the push by fast-food workers to raise the minimum wage were marching. Photo: Jessica J. Trevino /MCT/Landov\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69056\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Outside a Taco Bell restaurant in Warren, Mich., early Thursday, supporters of the push by fast-food workers to raise the minimum wage were marching. Photo: Jessica J. Trevino /MCT/Landov\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/104192887/mark-memmott\">Mark Memmott\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thetwo-way/2013/08/29/216765679/largest-strike-so-far-by-fast-food-workers-set-for-thursday\">The Two-Way\u003c/a> at NPR Food News (8/29/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Organizers say workers at fast-food restaurants in cities across the nation will walk off their jobs Thursday in what's expected to be the largest such strike so far, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=216549079\" target=\"_blank\">The Associated Press writes\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the wire service adds:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"Thursday's planned walkouts follow a series of strikes that began last November in New York City, then spread to cities including Chicago, Detroit and Seattle. Workers say they want $15 an hour, which would be about $31,000 a year for full-time employees. That's more than double the federal minimum wage, which many fast food workers make, of $7.25 an hour, or $15,000 a year.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.reuters.com/article/2013/08/29/us-usa-restaurants-strike-idUSBRE97S05320130829\" target=\"_blank\">According to Reuters\u003c/a>, \"employees of McDonald's Corp, Wendy's Restaurants LLC, Burger King Worldwide Inc and others have pledged to walk off their jobs in 50 cities from Boston, Mass., to Alameda, Calif., organizers say. They are expected to be joined by retail employees at stores owned by Macy's Inc., Sears Holdings Corp. and Dollar Tree Inc. in some cities.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/29/for-restaurant-workers-a-struggle-to-put-food-on-the-table/\" target=\"_blank\">Thursday on \u003c/a>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/29/216495125/for-restaurant-workers-a-struggle-to-put-food-on-the-table\" target=\"_blank\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/em>and on The Salt blog, NPR's Jennifer Ludden reported about the struggle that many restaurant workers have to put food on their own tables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Saru Jayaraman, co-founder and co-director of the worker advocacy group the Restaurant Opportunities Center, tells NPR that the cost of child care alone can eat up one-third of some restaurant workers' incomes. She supports a bill to raise the minimum wage to just over $10.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as Jennifer adds, \"industry officials say a sharp increase in the minimum wage would kill jobs\" by forcing some employers to cut positions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Update at 9:40 a.m. ET. Protest In Manhattan:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Associated Press writes that \"in New York, about 300 to 400 protesters marched and flooded inside a McDonald's near the Empire State Building. Shortly after the demonstration, however, the restaurant seemed to be operating normally and a few customers said they hadn't heard of the movement. The same was true at a McDonald's a few blocks away.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "In 50 cities across the nation, many employees at fast-food restaurants have pledged to walk out. They're hoping to draw attention to their campaign for an increase in the minimum wage.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69056\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tacobell-protest.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tacobell-protest.jpg\" alt=\"Outside a Taco Bell restaurant in Warren, Mich., early Thursday, supporters of the push by fast-food workers to raise the minimum wage were marching. Photo: Jessica J. Trevino /MCT/Landov\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69056\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Outside a Taco Bell restaurant in Warren, Mich., early Thursday, supporters of the push by fast-food workers to raise the minimum wage were marching. Photo: Jessica J. Trevino /MCT/Landov\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/104192887/mark-memmott\">Mark Memmott\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thetwo-way/2013/08/29/216765679/largest-strike-so-far-by-fast-food-workers-set-for-thursday\">The Two-Way\u003c/a> at NPR Food News (8/29/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Organizers say workers at fast-food restaurants in cities across the nation will walk off their jobs Thursday in what's expected to be the largest such strike so far, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=216549079\" target=\"_blank\">The Associated Press writes\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the wire service adds:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"Thursday's planned walkouts follow a series of strikes that began last November in New York City, then spread to cities including Chicago, Detroit and Seattle. Workers say they want $15 an hour, which would be about $31,000 a year for full-time employees. That's more than double the federal minimum wage, which many fast food workers make, of $7.25 an hour, or $15,000 a year.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.reuters.com/article/2013/08/29/us-usa-restaurants-strike-idUSBRE97S05320130829\" target=\"_blank\">According to Reuters\u003c/a>, \"employees of McDonald's Corp, Wendy's Restaurants LLC, Burger King Worldwide Inc and others have pledged to walk off their jobs in 50 cities from Boston, Mass., to Alameda, Calif., organizers say. They are expected to be joined by retail employees at stores owned by Macy's Inc., Sears Holdings Corp. and Dollar Tree Inc. in some cities.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/29/for-restaurant-workers-a-struggle-to-put-food-on-the-table/\" target=\"_blank\">Thursday on \u003c/a>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/29/216495125/for-restaurant-workers-a-struggle-to-put-food-on-the-table\" target=\"_blank\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/em>and on The Salt blog, NPR's Jennifer Ludden reported about the struggle that many restaurant workers have to put food on their own tables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Saru Jayaraman, co-founder and co-director of the worker advocacy group the Restaurant Opportunities Center, tells NPR that the cost of child care alone can eat up one-third of some restaurant workers' incomes. She supports a bill to raise the minimum wage to just over $10.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as Jennifer adds, \"industry officials say a sharp increase in the minimum wage would kill jobs\" by forcing some employers to cut positions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Update at 9:40 a.m. ET. Protest In Manhattan:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Associated Press writes that \"in New York, about 300 to 400 protesters marched and flooded inside a McDonald's near the Empire State Building. Shortly after the demonstration, however, the restaurant seemed to be operating normally and a few customers said they hadn't heard of the movement. The same was true at a McDonald's a few blocks away.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "3 Recipes: Roasted Tomatoes, The Perfect Accessory For Summer Dishes",
"title": "3 Recipes: Roasted Tomatoes, The Perfect Accessory For Summer Dishes",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69020\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted tomatoes. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69020\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted tomatoes. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/08/28/215862597/roasted-tomatoes-the-perfect-accessory-for-summer-dishes\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/28/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#orzo\">Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil\u003c/a>; \u003ca href=\"#pork\">Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#tart\">Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At this time of year, we all love tomatoes. Many of us claim we'll \"take a big juicy tomato and bite into it like it's an apple,\" although you won't often see that happen in actual fact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet, even people who love a juicy fresh tomato also are likely to enjoy it with all the juice sucked out, as in sun-dried tomatoes and — especially — roasted tomatoes. It's the way the process acts on flavors, caramelizing what's on the outside, concentrating what's on the inside. It's true even for a soulless, pale-pink January tomato. You can count on roasting to isolate and spotlight whatever sugars are to be found in that poor, hardhearted, well-traveled specimen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when you roast an August tomato — the Rita Hayworth of nightshades, seething in aromatic volatile compounds, complex with the sweetness of captured sunlight, intrinsically tart with citric and malic acids — well, then, you have something worth stopping the presses for. Dressed in caramel notes, with a suggestion of salt and a big wink toward vinegar, a roasted tomato's most memorable feature is its long, sensuous, deep and savory finish. It's a tone poem in umami, and by the time you reach the coda it's already instructed your brain to reach for the next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first glance, when you start comparing people's methods for roasting tomatoes, you'll think the world has gone mad. Some tell you to roast at 450 degrees for 30 minutes. Some tell you to roast at 250 degrees for 3 hours. Others say 350 for 2 hours. \u003cem>What is going on?\u003c/em> The thing is, they all work. All you're doing is taking out the water and browning the outside a little. You can do it fast, in which case it will be sludgy but luscious in the middle, with a slippery, detachable outside. Or you can do it slowly, in which case the texture will be more cohesive, uniformly tacky and chewy. Same great taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How much does it change matters if you use cherry or grape tomatoes instead of full-size ones? The most important factor is how much air circulates around each piece of tomato, so smaller pieces will tend to dry faster. Just be sure to drizzle on some oil, and don't be shy — fat carries flavor, and there's a lot of flavor to carry here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've got your roasted tomatoes, you can store them in the refrigerator for as long as it takes to use them up, and, trust me, it won't be long. The oil you so considerately drizzled over them when you were about to pop them in the oven will also help to keep them fresh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are as many ways to eat a roasted tomato as there are cooks. You can tuck them into pastas and pasta salads with a drizzle of balsamic. They're sensational with basil, the eternal tomato sidekick. You can use them as a base for gravy whose depth and character will bring tears to your eyes. You can showcase them in a gorgeous tart, layered like russet roof tiles in a golden pastry frame. Or you can toss them with some crisp-crusted potatoes with maybe some flecks of olive, and spend a happy half-hour alternating tomato-potato bites in a partial swoon, unable to decide which you love more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a happy problem to have, and a specifically \u003cem>summer\u003c/em> sort of happy problem, like whether to wear your strappy sandals or your cork wedges, or whether you should go for a swim or nap in the hammock. Enjoy it while you can — because while the roasted tomatoes of August may indeed be unforgettable, you certainly don't want to wait until they're nothing more than a memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"orzo\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I think this very simple but satisfying salad looks loveliest if you have a mix of colors — maybe some orange sun gold cherry tomatoes mixed in with the red.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69018\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-orzo.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-orzo.jpg\" alt=\"Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69018\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pints cherry or grape tomatoes, or a mix\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olive oil for tossing the tomatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound orzo\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup pine nuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large bunch basil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Red wine vinegar and fresh pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 250 degrees (or 200 with convection).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Halve the tomatoes lengthwise and toss with plenty of oil until they glisten. Arrange them cut side up on a foil-lined baking sheet with plenty of space in between and sprinkle with just a bit of salt. Roast for 1 hour and 15-30 minutes, checking every half-hour on their progress. If they start to turn a deep brown on their undersides, pull them right away — they're about to burn. You want them tacky and slightly shriveled but not completely dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the tomatoes are roasting, boil a pot of water. Cook the orzo according to the package directions, drain and toss with oil to prevent clumping. As it cools, toast the pine nuts over low heat in a small, dry skillet until they're evenly bronzed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toss the tomatoes, orzo and pine nuts together with a splash of red wine vinegar. Shred the basil by hand and toss at the very last minute, as both the vinegar and the heat are liable to make it discolor. Serve at room temperature. It's also good picnic food, tossed with a little more olive oil and served cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pork\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is high-heat roasting, enough to concentrate the tomato flavor, but not enough to dry out the pulp, so don't be surprised if the tomatoes remain a bit sludgy. The recipe is adapted from \u003c/em>Sara Foster's Southern Kitchen\u003cem> (Random House, 2011). Foster suggests you serve it with \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/07/31/207060436/buttermilk--makes--everything--taste--a--little--better\" target=\"_blank\">buttermilk biscuits\u003c/a>,\u003cem> which is great if you have the time. But the pork with its swoon-worthy gravy is memorable all by itself.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69016\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes-pork.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes-pork.jpg\" alt=\"Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69016\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 plum tomatoes, cored and halved\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1-pound pork tenderloin or center-cut loin, trimmed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons fresh thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups low-sodium chicken broth\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the tomatoes on a rimmed baking sheet and toss with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the vinegar. Season with salt and pepper to taste and bake for about 30 minutes, until the skins begin to shrivel and the tomatoes start to caramelize. Remove from the oven and set aside until cool enough to handle. Remove and discard the skins (they will slip right off) and roughly chop the tomatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the tomatoes are cooking, rinse the pork, pat dry and remove any silver skin. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until sizzling hot. Slice the tenderloin into rounds about 1/4- to 1/2-inch thick and sprinkle with the thyme and salt and pepper to taste, pressing lightly so the seasonings adhere. Dip the rounds in the flour to coat both sides lightly; reserve the remaining flour. Place the pork in the skillet and saute for about 2 minutes per side, until light brown around the edges. Remove the meat from the skillet, place on a plate and cover loosely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the butter to the same skillet and melt until sizzling hot. Add 2 tablespoons of the reserved dredging flour and stir to scrape any brown bits from the bottom of the skillet. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 1 minute, just until the flour cooks slightly and turns light brown. Whisk in the broth and stir until the gravy is slightly thick and smooth. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring frequently, until the gravy comes to a boil and thickens, 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and return the tenderloin slices to the skillet with the gravy just to warm through.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"tart\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is one of those tarts that come together in no time if you happen to have the roasted tomatoes and the caramelized onions already made. Otherwise, grab a glass of wine and a friend and prepare to hang out in an increasingly fragrant kitchen for a couple of hours.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69019\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-tart.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-tart.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust. Photo: T. Susan Chang\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69019\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust. Photo: T. Susan Chang\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tart Dough\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup white whole wheat or all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup freshly grated Parmesan\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch kosher salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 stick cold unsalted butter, cut into 6 or 8 large chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup water, in a measuring cup with a couple of ice cubes thrown in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tart Filling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large ripe tomatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olive oil for coating the onions and the tomatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1-2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large onions, halved and thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kosher salt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 oil-packed anchovy fillets\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup crumbled feta cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and lightly oil the paper. Slice the tomatoes 1/3- to 1/2-inch thick and lay them out, well-spaced, on the baking sheet. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar and enough olive oil so that the slices glisten evenly (if your olive oil pools and splotches, just grab a brush and baste the slices with it). Sprinkle with just a pinch of kosher salt. Roast for 1 1/2 hours, flipping the slices halfway through, until tomatoes are collapsed, but firm enough to turn with spatula, and a bit tacky and chewy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the tomatoes are roasting, make the tart dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the flour, salt and Parmesan briefly to combine. Add the butter chunks and continue pulsing until the mixture is coarsely combined (particles should be a mix of sizes, from sand- to rice- to pea-size). Add a tablespoon or so of water, and pulse a couple of times; repeat. Finally, add just a bit more water and pulse a few times until the dough begins to clump together in little pellets, smaller than a grain of rice. There should be almost no visible flour particles left in the bowl. Pulse two or three more times, so the pellets start to clump, and turn out onto a work surface. Shape gently into a disk about as thick as your thumb. Wrap in plastic and chill in the refrigerator for 20-30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. While the dough's chilling, caramelize the onions. Add the thin slices to a heavy, wide-bottomed pot with a generous pinch of kosher salt and enough oil to coat the onions. Stir them thoroughly to coat and then let them sweat, gently, over low heat, until they soften and their moisture has dampened the pan and then evaporated, about 20 minutes; stir as often as you have to so that they don't color at this point. If the pan is dry, add a half-cup of water and continue to cook for another 20 minutes or so until the pan is dry again. Add a tiny bit more oil — enough to help the onions glide over the bottom of the pan. They will color quickly at this point, so stir continuously until they are an even caramel color throughout. Add the anchovies, breaking them up with a fork and working them into the onions. Remove from heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While you're minding the onions, you'll have enough time to blind-bake the tart dough. Remove the tart dough from the refrigerator and press it into a 1/3-inch-thick round with a rolling pin, using a little flour to keep the dough from sticking to the counter if necessary. Then roll it out into a 1/8- to 1/4-inch round.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the dough in a fluted 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Fit snugly in the pan and roll a rolling pin over the top of the pan to cut off any overhang. Refrigerate for 10 minutes more. Place the tart pan on a baking sheet, set a sheet of parchment paper against the surface of the dough and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake for 10 minutes, until just pale gold. Prick the dough with a fork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lower the oven temperature to 300 degrees. Spread the caramelized onions on the base. Crumble the feta cheese onto the onions. Layer on the roasted tomatoes in overlapping circles. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the tomatoes are vibrant and slightly more shrunken and the feta has melted a bit. Unmold gingerly and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About the Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nT. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR.org\u003c/a> and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a> and has just released the \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/cookshelf-cookbook-rating/id638554845?mt=8\">CookShelf cookbook-rating app\u003c/a>, which is available on iPhone, iPad and Android devices. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69020\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted tomatoes. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69020\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted tomatoes. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/08/28/215862597/roasted-tomatoes-the-perfect-accessory-for-summer-dishes\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/28/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#orzo\">Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil\u003c/a>; \u003ca href=\"#pork\">Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#tart\">Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At this time of year, we all love tomatoes. Many of us claim we'll \"take a big juicy tomato and bite into it like it's an apple,\" although you won't often see that happen in actual fact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet, even people who love a juicy fresh tomato also are likely to enjoy it with all the juice sucked out, as in sun-dried tomatoes and — especially — roasted tomatoes. It's the way the process acts on flavors, caramelizing what's on the outside, concentrating what's on the inside. It's true even for a soulless, pale-pink January tomato. You can count on roasting to isolate and spotlight whatever sugars are to be found in that poor, hardhearted, well-traveled specimen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when you roast an August tomato — the Rita Hayworth of nightshades, seething in aromatic volatile compounds, complex with the sweetness of captured sunlight, intrinsically tart with citric and malic acids — well, then, you have something worth stopping the presses for. Dressed in caramel notes, with a suggestion of salt and a big wink toward vinegar, a roasted tomato's most memorable feature is its long, sensuous, deep and savory finish. It's a tone poem in umami, and by the time you reach the coda it's already instructed your brain to reach for the next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first glance, when you start comparing people's methods for roasting tomatoes, you'll think the world has gone mad. Some tell you to roast at 450 degrees for 30 minutes. Some tell you to roast at 250 degrees for 3 hours. Others say 350 for 2 hours. \u003cem>What is going on?\u003c/em> The thing is, they all work. All you're doing is taking out the water and browning the outside a little. You can do it fast, in which case it will be sludgy but luscious in the middle, with a slippery, detachable outside. Or you can do it slowly, in which case the texture will be more cohesive, uniformly tacky and chewy. Same great taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How much does it change matters if you use cherry or grape tomatoes instead of full-size ones? The most important factor is how much air circulates around each piece of tomato, so smaller pieces will tend to dry faster. Just be sure to drizzle on some oil, and don't be shy — fat carries flavor, and there's a lot of flavor to carry here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've got your roasted tomatoes, you can store them in the refrigerator for as long as it takes to use them up, and, trust me, it won't be long. The oil you so considerately drizzled over them when you were about to pop them in the oven will also help to keep them fresh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are as many ways to eat a roasted tomato as there are cooks. You can tuck them into pastas and pasta salads with a drizzle of balsamic. They're sensational with basil, the eternal tomato sidekick. You can use them as a base for gravy whose depth and character will bring tears to your eyes. You can showcase them in a gorgeous tart, layered like russet roof tiles in a golden pastry frame. Or you can toss them with some crisp-crusted potatoes with maybe some flecks of olive, and spend a happy half-hour alternating tomato-potato bites in a partial swoon, unable to decide which you love more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a happy problem to have, and a specifically \u003cem>summer\u003c/em> sort of happy problem, like whether to wear your strappy sandals or your cork wedges, or whether you should go for a swim or nap in the hammock. Enjoy it while you can — because while the roasted tomatoes of August may indeed be unforgettable, you certainly don't want to wait until they're nothing more than a memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"orzo\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I think this very simple but satisfying salad looks loveliest if you have a mix of colors — maybe some orange sun gold cherry tomatoes mixed in with the red.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69018\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-orzo.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-orzo.jpg\" alt=\"Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69018\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pints cherry or grape tomatoes, or a mix\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olive oil for tossing the tomatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound orzo\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup pine nuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large bunch basil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Red wine vinegar and fresh pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 250 degrees (or 200 with convection).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Halve the tomatoes lengthwise and toss with plenty of oil until they glisten. Arrange them cut side up on a foil-lined baking sheet with plenty of space in between and sprinkle with just a bit of salt. Roast for 1 hour and 15-30 minutes, checking every half-hour on their progress. If they start to turn a deep brown on their undersides, pull them right away — they're about to burn. You want them tacky and slightly shriveled but not completely dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the tomatoes are roasting, boil a pot of water. Cook the orzo according to the package directions, drain and toss with oil to prevent clumping. As it cools, toast the pine nuts over low heat in a small, dry skillet until they're evenly bronzed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toss the tomatoes, orzo and pine nuts together with a splash of red wine vinegar. Shred the basil by hand and toss at the very last minute, as both the vinegar and the heat are liable to make it discolor. Serve at room temperature. It's also good picnic food, tossed with a little more olive oil and served cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pork\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is high-heat roasting, enough to concentrate the tomato flavor, but not enough to dry out the pulp, so don't be surprised if the tomatoes remain a bit sludgy. The recipe is adapted from \u003c/em>Sara Foster's Southern Kitchen\u003cem> (Random House, 2011). Foster suggests you serve it with \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/07/31/207060436/buttermilk--makes--everything--taste--a--little--better\" target=\"_blank\">buttermilk biscuits\u003c/a>,\u003cem> which is great if you have the time. But the pork with its swoon-worthy gravy is memorable all by itself.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69016\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes-pork.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes-pork.jpg\" alt=\"Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69016\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 plum tomatoes, cored and halved\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1-pound pork tenderloin or center-cut loin, trimmed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons fresh thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups low-sodium chicken broth\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the tomatoes on a rimmed baking sheet and toss with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the vinegar. Season with salt and pepper to taste and bake for about 30 minutes, until the skins begin to shrivel and the tomatoes start to caramelize. Remove from the oven and set aside until cool enough to handle. Remove and discard the skins (they will slip right off) and roughly chop the tomatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the tomatoes are cooking, rinse the pork, pat dry and remove any silver skin. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until sizzling hot. Slice the tenderloin into rounds about 1/4- to 1/2-inch thick and sprinkle with the thyme and salt and pepper to taste, pressing lightly so the seasonings adhere. Dip the rounds in the flour to coat both sides lightly; reserve the remaining flour. Place the pork in the skillet and saute for about 2 minutes per side, until light brown around the edges. Remove the meat from the skillet, place on a plate and cover loosely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the butter to the same skillet and melt until sizzling hot. Add 2 tablespoons of the reserved dredging flour and stir to scrape any brown bits from the bottom of the skillet. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 1 minute, just until the flour cooks slightly and turns light brown. Whisk in the broth and stir until the gravy is slightly thick and smooth. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring frequently, until the gravy comes to a boil and thickens, 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and return the tenderloin slices to the skillet with the gravy just to warm through.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"tart\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is one of those tarts that come together in no time if you happen to have the roasted tomatoes and the caramelized onions already made. Otherwise, grab a glass of wine and a friend and prepare to hang out in an increasingly fragrant kitchen for a couple of hours.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69019\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-tart.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-tart.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust. Photo: T. Susan Chang\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69019\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust. Photo: T. Susan Chang\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tart Dough\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup white whole wheat or all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup freshly grated Parmesan\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch kosher salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 stick cold unsalted butter, cut into 6 or 8 large chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup water, in a measuring cup with a couple of ice cubes thrown in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tart Filling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large ripe tomatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olive oil for coating the onions and the tomatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1-2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large onions, halved and thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kosher salt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 oil-packed anchovy fillets\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup crumbled feta cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and lightly oil the paper. Slice the tomatoes 1/3- to 1/2-inch thick and lay them out, well-spaced, on the baking sheet. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar and enough olive oil so that the slices glisten evenly (if your olive oil pools and splotches, just grab a brush and baste the slices with it). Sprinkle with just a pinch of kosher salt. Roast for 1 1/2 hours, flipping the slices halfway through, until tomatoes are collapsed, but firm enough to turn with spatula, and a bit tacky and chewy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the tomatoes are roasting, make the tart dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the flour, salt and Parmesan briefly to combine. Add the butter chunks and continue pulsing until the mixture is coarsely combined (particles should be a mix of sizes, from sand- to rice- to pea-size). Add a tablespoon or so of water, and pulse a couple of times; repeat. Finally, add just a bit more water and pulse a few times until the dough begins to clump together in little pellets, smaller than a grain of rice. There should be almost no visible flour particles left in the bowl. Pulse two or three more times, so the pellets start to clump, and turn out onto a work surface. Shape gently into a disk about as thick as your thumb. Wrap in plastic and chill in the refrigerator for 20-30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. While the dough's chilling, caramelize the onions. Add the thin slices to a heavy, wide-bottomed pot with a generous pinch of kosher salt and enough oil to coat the onions. Stir them thoroughly to coat and then let them sweat, gently, over low heat, until they soften and their moisture has dampened the pan and then evaporated, about 20 minutes; stir as often as you have to so that they don't color at this point. If the pan is dry, add a half-cup of water and continue to cook for another 20 minutes or so until the pan is dry again. Add a tiny bit more oil — enough to help the onions glide over the bottom of the pan. They will color quickly at this point, so stir continuously until they are an even caramel color throughout. Add the anchovies, breaking them up with a fork and working them into the onions. Remove from heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While you're minding the onions, you'll have enough time to blind-bake the tart dough. Remove the tart dough from the refrigerator and press it into a 1/3-inch-thick round with a rolling pin, using a little flour to keep the dough from sticking to the counter if necessary. Then roll it out into a 1/8- to 1/4-inch round.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the dough in a fluted 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Fit snugly in the pan and roll a rolling pin over the top of the pan to cut off any overhang. Refrigerate for 10 minutes more. Place the tart pan on a baking sheet, set a sheet of parchment paper against the surface of the dough and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake for 10 minutes, until just pale gold. Prick the dough with a fork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lower the oven temperature to 300 degrees. Spread the caramelized onions on the base. Crumble the feta cheese onto the onions. Layer on the roasted tomatoes in overlapping circles. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the tomatoes are vibrant and slightly more shrunken and the feta has melted a bit. Unmold gingerly and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About the Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nT. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR.org\u003c/a> and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a> and has just released the \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/cookshelf-cookbook-rating/id638554845?mt=8\">CookShelf cookbook-rating app\u003c/a>, which is available on iPhone, iPad and Android devices. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "To Grow Sweeter Produce, California Farmers Turn Off The Water",
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"content": "\u003cp>Post by Alastair Bland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/23/214884366/to-grow-sweeter-produce-california-farmers-turn-off-the-water\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/28/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69003\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/happyboy-tomato.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/happyboy-tomato.jpg\" alt=\"At Happy Boy Farms near Santa Cruz, Calif., Early Girl tomatoes are grown using dry farming methods. The tomatoes have become increasingly popular with chefs and wholesalers. Photo: Courtesy Jen Lynne/Happy Boy Farms\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69003\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Happy Boy Farms near Santa Cruz, Calif., Early Girl tomatoes are grown using dry farming methods. The tomatoes have become increasingly popular with chefs and wholesalers. Photo: Courtesy Jen Lynne/Happy Boy Farms\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A week without water can easily kill the average person.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a garden that goes unwatered for months may produce sweeter, more flavorful fruits than anything available in most mainstream supermarkets--even in the scorching heat of a California summer. Commercial growers call it \"dry farming,\" and throughout the state, this unconventional technique seems to be catching on among small producers of tomatoes, apples, grapes, melons, and potatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At \u003ca href=\"http://www.happyboyfarms.com/\">Happy Boy Farms\u003c/a>, near Santa Cruz, sales director Jen Lynne believes dry farming could be an important agricultural practice in the future, when water will likely be a less abundant resource.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the taste of her dry-farmed Early Girl tomatoes is the main reason chefs, wholesalers and individuals around the country are increasingly calling to place orders. She notes that many calls come from places where rains falls through the summer, making dry farming impossible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Once you taste a dry-farmed tomato, you'll never want anything else,\" she says, adding that she could be selling hundreds of 14-pound cases per day if her 10-acre tomato field could meet the demand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Whole Foods Market in Sebastopol, about 50 miles north of San Francisco, dry-farmed tomatoes have become a shopper attraction, according to produce buyer Allan Timpe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People definitely come here to get them,\" he says. \"Once someone tastes a dry-farmed tomato, you've got a customer for life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Timpe also carries locally grown, dry-farmed potatoes, which he says \"are dense and really flavorful.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea behind dry farming is that by restricting a plant's water intake, its fruits wind up with less water content and a greater density of sugar and other flavor compounds. But the practice isn't as simple as just cutting off the water.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>First, dry farming in sandy soil, through which water drains easily, doesn't work. Just as importantly, the plants, or trees, must be dry-farmed from the time they're planted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We get the plants going with a little water, then cut it off after a few weeks,\" says Kevin McEnnis, who dry farms Early Girl tomatoes at \u003ca href=\"http://www.quetzalfarm.com/practices.htm\">Quetzal Farm\u003c/a> in Santa Rosa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, he explains, as the young but quickly growing vines become thirsty, they send their roots deeper underground than they otherwise would to find moisture, which can remain in the soil all year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A technique that also helps dry farmers lock water underground is frequently tilling the top foot of soil into a fluffy dust layer. Underground moisture that creeps upward through the earth cannot break through this layer, and it remains below the surface.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But farming without irrigation has a major drawback: dramatically reduced yields.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stan Devoto, a farmer in Northern California, says his dry-farmed trees produce 12 to 15 tons of apples per acre per year. Irrigated trees, on the other hand, may bear 40 or 50 tons. And McEnnis says he harvests about four tons of tomatoes off his acre of vines each summer and fall, whereas conventional growers may reap 40 tons per acre.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, in most areas of conventional agriculture, dry farming is unprofitable and unusual. Exceptions include most European wine grapes — which local winemaking laws actually require be grown without irrigation — and much of America's grain production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ucanr.edu/?facultyid=2365\">Paul Vossen\u003c/a>, a University of California farm adviser in Sonoma County, says many people who dry farm do so only because they have no water with which to irrigate their land. \"They do it because they have to, and so they'll make it part of their marketing strategy,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But winemaker Will Bucklin, of \u003ca href=\"http://www.buckzin.com/\">Old Hill Ranch\u003c/a> in the Sonoma Valley, has an underground water supply. Still, he dry farms 15 acres of old-vine Syrah, Zinfandel and other varieties — one of just a few California winemakers currently dry farming. His grapes are smaller, and yields at harvest time slightly lower, than on irrigated vineyards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"But the small size of the berries means there is a lower juice-to-skin ratio,\" Bucklin says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since grape skins contain flavor-making tannins and polyphenols, dry farming can — at least in theory — produce richer, more intense wines. Bucklin concedes that he isn't certain that a novice taster, or even an expert one, could tell a dry-farmed wine from a conventional one in a blind tasting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in a highly populated state where water tables are dropping and rivers dwindling to trickles, Bucklin is confident, at least, of one thing:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm using a lot less water than my neighbor.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Post by Alastair Bland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/23/214884366/to-grow-sweeter-produce-california-farmers-turn-off-the-water\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/28/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69003\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/happyboy-tomato.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/happyboy-tomato.jpg\" alt=\"At Happy Boy Farms near Santa Cruz, Calif., Early Girl tomatoes are grown using dry farming methods. The tomatoes have become increasingly popular with chefs and wholesalers. Photo: Courtesy Jen Lynne/Happy Boy Farms\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69003\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Happy Boy Farms near Santa Cruz, Calif., Early Girl tomatoes are grown using dry farming methods. The tomatoes have become increasingly popular with chefs and wholesalers. Photo: Courtesy Jen Lynne/Happy Boy Farms\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A week without water can easily kill the average person.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a garden that goes unwatered for months may produce sweeter, more flavorful fruits than anything available in most mainstream supermarkets--even in the scorching heat of a California summer. Commercial growers call it \"dry farming,\" and throughout the state, this unconventional technique seems to be catching on among small producers of tomatoes, apples, grapes, melons, and potatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At \u003ca href=\"http://www.happyboyfarms.com/\">Happy Boy Farms\u003c/a>, near Santa Cruz, sales director Jen Lynne believes dry farming could be an important agricultural practice in the future, when water will likely be a less abundant resource.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the taste of her dry-farmed Early Girl tomatoes is the main reason chefs, wholesalers and individuals around the country are increasingly calling to place orders. She notes that many calls come from places where rains falls through the summer, making dry farming impossible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Once you taste a dry-farmed tomato, you'll never want anything else,\" she says, adding that she could be selling hundreds of 14-pound cases per day if her 10-acre tomato field could meet the demand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Whole Foods Market in Sebastopol, about 50 miles north of San Francisco, dry-farmed tomatoes have become a shopper attraction, according to produce buyer Allan Timpe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People definitely come here to get them,\" he says. \"Once someone tastes a dry-farmed tomato, you've got a customer for life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Timpe also carries locally grown, dry-farmed potatoes, which he says \"are dense and really flavorful.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea behind dry farming is that by restricting a plant's water intake, its fruits wind up with less water content and a greater density of sugar and other flavor compounds. But the practice isn't as simple as just cutting off the water.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>First, dry farming in sandy soil, through which water drains easily, doesn't work. Just as importantly, the plants, or trees, must be dry-farmed from the time they're planted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We get the plants going with a little water, then cut it off after a few weeks,\" says Kevin McEnnis, who dry farms Early Girl tomatoes at \u003ca href=\"http://www.quetzalfarm.com/practices.htm\">Quetzal Farm\u003c/a> in Santa Rosa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, he explains, as the young but quickly growing vines become thirsty, they send their roots deeper underground than they otherwise would to find moisture, which can remain in the soil all year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A technique that also helps dry farmers lock water underground is frequently tilling the top foot of soil into a fluffy dust layer. Underground moisture that creeps upward through the earth cannot break through this layer, and it remains below the surface.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But farming without irrigation has a major drawback: dramatically reduced yields.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stan Devoto, a farmer in Northern California, says his dry-farmed trees produce 12 to 15 tons of apples per acre per year. Irrigated trees, on the other hand, may bear 40 or 50 tons. And McEnnis says he harvests about four tons of tomatoes off his acre of vines each summer and fall, whereas conventional growers may reap 40 tons per acre.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, in most areas of conventional agriculture, dry farming is unprofitable and unusual. Exceptions include most European wine grapes — which local winemaking laws actually require be grown without irrigation — and much of America's grain production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ucanr.edu/?facultyid=2365\">Paul Vossen\u003c/a>, a University of California farm adviser in Sonoma County, says many people who dry farm do so only because they have no water with which to irrigate their land. \"They do it because they have to, and so they'll make it part of their marketing strategy,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But winemaker Will Bucklin, of \u003ca href=\"http://www.buckzin.com/\">Old Hill Ranch\u003c/a> in the Sonoma Valley, has an underground water supply. Still, he dry farms 15 acres of old-vine Syrah, Zinfandel and other varieties — one of just a few California winemakers currently dry farming. His grapes are smaller, and yields at harvest time slightly lower, than on irrigated vineyards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"But the small size of the berries means there is a lower juice-to-skin ratio,\" Bucklin says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since grape skins contain flavor-making tannins and polyphenols, dry farming can — at least in theory — produce richer, more intense wines. Bucklin concedes that he isn't certain that a novice taster, or even an expert one, could tell a dry-farmed wine from a conventional one in a blind tasting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in a highly populated state where water tables are dropping and rivers dwindling to trickles, Bucklin is confident, at least, of one thing:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm using a lot less water than my neighbor.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Tortellini, The Dumpling Inspired By Venus' Navel",
"title": "Tortellini, The Dumpling Inspired By Venus' Navel",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68917\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/venus.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/venus.jpg\" alt=\"Even in Sandro Botticelli's painting <em>The Birth of Venus,</em> the goddess's belly resembles a plump, firm tortellino. Image: Wikimedia.org\" width=\"1120\" height=\"693\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68917\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even in Sandro Botticelli's painting \u003cem>The Birth of Venus,\u003c/em> the goddess's belly resembles a plump, firm tortellino. Image: \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sandro_Botticelli_-_La_nascita_di_Venere_-_Google_Art_Project_-_edited.jpg\">Wikimedia.org\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/27/210555719/tortellini-the-dumpling-inspired-by-venus-navel\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/08/20130827_me_05.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2101034/sylvia-poggioli\">Sylvia Poggioli\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/27/210555719/tortellini-the-dumpling-inspired-by-venus-navel\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (98/27/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tortellini — small circles of rolled dough folded around a filling — are one of the most renowned members of the Italian pasta family. In the land of their birth, the region near the Italian city of Bologna, they're strictly served as broth-like dumplings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Possibly no foodstuff in Italian cuisine is surrounded by so much history and lore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68916\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortellino.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortellino.jpg\" alt=\"A young boy in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy, shows off a ceramic version of a tortellino during the town's annual celebration of the pasta's nameless inventor.\" width=\"290\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68916\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A young boy in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy, shows off a ceramic version of a tortellino during the town's annual celebration of the pasta's nameless inventor. Photo courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacarbonarablog.it/\">La Carbonara blog\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Legend has it that Venus, the goddess of love, once stayed at the local tavern in the town of \u003ca href=\"https://maps.google.com/maps?q=castelfranco+emilia&ll=44.590467,11.052246&spn=5.664388,8.118896&hnear=Castelfranco+Emilia,+Provincia+di+Modena,+Emilia-Romagna,+Italy&gl=us&t=m&z=7\">Castelfranco Emilia\u003c/a>, halfway between the gastronomic giants Bologna and Modena.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The innkeeper spied on his guest through the keyhole of her room and got a partial glimpse of her. Struck by what he saw, he rushed to his kitchen, rolled out a sheet of fresh egg pasta and invented a shape inspired by Venus' navel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every year, Castelfranco Emilia celebrates its favorite son — the nameless inventor of the most sensual of all pasta shapes. Drummers, flag-throwers and local residents parade through town dressed in elaborate Renaissance costumes. On a makeshift stage, the legend of the peeping-Tom innkeeper is more or less re-enacted. The mood is festive and suitable for children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Inspired by the sight of the divine navel,\" the master of ceremonies intones, \"our innkeeper invents the prestigious ... tortellino!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While its origins may not be in antiquity, the first known tortellino recipe dates to 1570.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gianni degli Angeli is the president of the San Nicola Association, which has taken on the task of safeguarding the local region's renowned culinary traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says the No. 1 symbol of the local gastronomic culture is the tortellino. \"In times of poverty and hardship, we ate tortellini only at Christmas, Easter and at weddings, because the filling is made of costly ingredients like prosciutto and parmesan cheese,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tortellini are an integral part of family life in the Emilia region, says Massimo Bottura, chef and owner of a three-Michelin-star restaurant in Modena. \"I grew up under the kitchen table escaping my older brothers at my grandmother's, where flour fell on my feet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Turning Flour And Eggs Into Tortellini\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWomen from Castelfranco Emilia, Italy, demonstrate how they prepared 180 kilograms of tortellini for the 2012 London Olympics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"single-video\">\u003ciframe width=\"600\" height=\"338\" src=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/event/embeddedVideo.php?storyId=210555719&mediaId=211357601\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Source: Appeditor 2013 Tutti i diritti riservati\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Credit: Il Tortellino Progetto e realizzazione di Lucia Barbieri, Paola Busani e Monica Ropa\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At an international gathering of famous chefs, he said that tortellini bring out a competitive spirit. \"Every family has its own recipe for tortellini, more Parmigiano, less Parmigiano,\" he says. \"I don't put prosciutto. I want mortadella. There are more discussions about tortellini in our family, in every Emilian family, than about politics.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Politics and soccer are way outranked in Emilia by the desire to eat well — \u003cem>very\u003c/em> well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making tortellini is an elaborate operation and has long been the domain of women known as \u003cem>sfogline\u003c/em>. The word derives from \u003cem>sfoglia,\u003c/em> the sheet of fresh egg pasta that is painstakingly rolled out by hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grazia Battistini is 63 years old, and she's been a \u003cem>sfoglina\u003c/em> for some 50 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68919\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/sfoglina-tortellini.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/sfoglina-tortellini.jpg\" alt=\"Grazia Battistini, 63, has been been making tortellini as a <em>sfoglina </em>for about 50 years. A statue of the ideal tortellino shape sits in the foreground. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\" width=\"290\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68919\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grazia Battistini, 63, has been been making tortellini as a \u003cem>sfoglina \u003c/em>for about 50 years. A statue of the ideal tortellino shape sits in the foreground. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Grandmothers and mothers handed down the tradition to daughters and granddaughters. We started when we were 7 or 8 years old,\" she says. \"If we couldn't reach the tabletop, they gave us a stool to stand on. Little by little, we learned to roll and then to cut the pasta. We had to be careful not to cut our fingers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For most of her life, Battistini says, making fresh egg pasta was an activity that involved the entire family. \"It was an occasion for socialization,\" she says. \"We were all together, men, women, children, everyone working together collectively.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Battistini gives us a demonstration on a wooden tabletop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For every 4 ounces of flour, we use one egg,\" she says. \"We make a crater in the center of the flour, and we break the eggs in the center and whisk briskly with a fork.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Battistini then starts mixing and scraping, and kneading the dough mostly with the palm of her hands — for at least 10 minutes. Once it's smooth and in the shape of a ball, she sets it aside to rest and starts on the filling, a mixture of prosciutto, mortadella, pork loin, eggs, Parmesan cheese and nutmeg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Battistini then returns to the \u003cem>sfoglia\u003c/em>\u003cem>. \u003c/em>Her entire body sways, rhythmically and sensually, as she stretches the dough over and over again with a rolling pin until it forms a large paper-thin sheet, not more than 1 millimeter thick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the sheet is ready, Battistini starts cutting it in strips and then into little squares 3 centimeters per side. She puts a dab of filling in the center, folds the square into a triangle, presses it, then rolls it around her index finger — out comes the belly-button shaped dumpling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like most Italians, Battistini has little patience for culinary experimentation and observes a rigid dogma in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68920\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortelloni.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortelloni-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Hand-made tortelloni – the larger size — are displayed at a grocery store in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-68920\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hand-made tortelloni – the larger size — are displayed at a grocery store in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The tortellino can \u003cem>only\u003c/em> be served in broth, that's what tradition teaches us. Of course, some people today serve it with butter, cream or tomato sauce, but then they're killing the taste of the filling.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once upon a time, a young man seeking a wife wanted first and foremost a master \u003cem>sfoglina\u003c/em>. But starting in the 1960s, women started working outside the home, and many no longer know how to make fresh egg pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The art of making tortellino is endangered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, a group of young graphic designers from Modena has produced \u003ca href=\"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewSoftware?id=676588559&mt=8\">an app\u003c/a> to safeguard the art of making tortellino, its history and the role in plays in the local culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lucia Barbieri says it's aimed at teaching everyone how to make tortellini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For example, men are showing a keen interest in making tortellino,\" Barbieri says. \"When I get together with a group of friends to make pasta, the men are always most enthusiastic as they learn an art that always belonged to women alone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile in Bologna, a new business opened last fall in the center of town — it's a tortellino-to-go joint, appropriately called Tortellino Bologna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Open every day until midnight, it caters to students, office workers and even housewives. Customers can order online.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's the brainchild of Federico Spisani, who left his job in a bank to embark on an effort to safeguard his grandmother's culinary traditions with a contemporary twist. He has enlisted an army of \u003cem>sfogline\u003c/em> — several of whom are in their 80s — to prepare fresh pasta every day. Servings come in Styrofoam cups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I try to unite the Italian quality of food — the best, in my opinion, in the world, — in a very fast-food way, cheap and fast,\" Spisani says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we leave, two well-dressed, middle-aged women enter the shop circumspectly and, probably hoping nobody will recognize them, they order two servings of takeaway tortellino.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"//instagram.com/p/dhMNP7OIxz/embed/\" width=\"612\" height=\"710\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" allowtransparency=\"true\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Legend has it that an innkeeper caught a glimpse of the goddess of love in her bedroom and then rushed to his kitchen to create an egg pasta inspired by Venus' belly button. Today the art of making tortellini is endangered, but several groups are devising creative ways to preserve the tradition.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68917\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/venus.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/venus.jpg\" alt=\"Even in Sandro Botticelli's painting <em>The Birth of Venus,</em> the goddess's belly resembles a plump, firm tortellino. Image: Wikimedia.org\" width=\"1120\" height=\"693\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68917\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even in Sandro Botticelli's painting \u003cem>The Birth of Venus,\u003c/em> the goddess's belly resembles a plump, firm tortellino. Image: \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sandro_Botticelli_-_La_nascita_di_Venere_-_Google_Art_Project_-_edited.jpg\">Wikimedia.org\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/27/210555719/tortellini-the-dumpling-inspired-by-venus-navel\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2101034/sylvia-poggioli\">Sylvia Poggioli\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/27/210555719/tortellini-the-dumpling-inspired-by-venus-navel\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (98/27/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tortellini — small circles of rolled dough folded around a filling — are one of the most renowned members of the Italian pasta family. In the land of their birth, the region near the Italian city of Bologna, they're strictly served as broth-like dumplings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Possibly no foodstuff in Italian cuisine is surrounded by so much history and lore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68916\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortellino.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortellino.jpg\" alt=\"A young boy in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy, shows off a ceramic version of a tortellino during the town's annual celebration of the pasta's nameless inventor.\" width=\"290\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68916\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A young boy in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy, shows off a ceramic version of a tortellino during the town's annual celebration of the pasta's nameless inventor. Photo courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacarbonarablog.it/\">La Carbonara blog\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Legend has it that Venus, the goddess of love, once stayed at the local tavern in the town of \u003ca href=\"https://maps.google.com/maps?q=castelfranco+emilia&ll=44.590467,11.052246&spn=5.664388,8.118896&hnear=Castelfranco+Emilia,+Provincia+di+Modena,+Emilia-Romagna,+Italy&gl=us&t=m&z=7\">Castelfranco Emilia\u003c/a>, halfway between the gastronomic giants Bologna and Modena.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The innkeeper spied on his guest through the keyhole of her room and got a partial glimpse of her. Struck by what he saw, he rushed to his kitchen, rolled out a sheet of fresh egg pasta and invented a shape inspired by Venus' navel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every year, Castelfranco Emilia celebrates its favorite son — the nameless inventor of the most sensual of all pasta shapes. Drummers, flag-throwers and local residents parade through town dressed in elaborate Renaissance costumes. On a makeshift stage, the legend of the peeping-Tom innkeeper is more or less re-enacted. The mood is festive and suitable for children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Inspired by the sight of the divine navel,\" the master of ceremonies intones, \"our innkeeper invents the prestigious ... tortellino!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While its origins may not be in antiquity, the first known tortellino recipe dates to 1570.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gianni degli Angeli is the president of the San Nicola Association, which has taken on the task of safeguarding the local region's renowned culinary traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says the No. 1 symbol of the local gastronomic culture is the tortellino. \"In times of poverty and hardship, we ate tortellini only at Christmas, Easter and at weddings, because the filling is made of costly ingredients like prosciutto and parmesan cheese,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tortellini are an integral part of family life in the Emilia region, says Massimo Bottura, chef and owner of a three-Michelin-star restaurant in Modena. \"I grew up under the kitchen table escaping my older brothers at my grandmother's, where flour fell on my feet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Turning Flour And Eggs Into Tortellini\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWomen from Castelfranco Emilia, Italy, demonstrate how they prepared 180 kilograms of tortellini for the 2012 London Olympics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"single-video\">\u003ciframe width=\"600\" height=\"338\" src=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/event/embeddedVideo.php?storyId=210555719&mediaId=211357601\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Source: Appeditor 2013 Tutti i diritti riservati\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Credit: Il Tortellino Progetto e realizzazione di Lucia Barbieri, Paola Busani e Monica Ropa\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At an international gathering of famous chefs, he said that tortellini bring out a competitive spirit. \"Every family has its own recipe for tortellini, more Parmigiano, less Parmigiano,\" he says. \"I don't put prosciutto. I want mortadella. There are more discussions about tortellini in our family, in every Emilian family, than about politics.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Politics and soccer are way outranked in Emilia by the desire to eat well — \u003cem>very\u003c/em> well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making tortellini is an elaborate operation and has long been the domain of women known as \u003cem>sfogline\u003c/em>. The word derives from \u003cem>sfoglia,\u003c/em> the sheet of fresh egg pasta that is painstakingly rolled out by hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grazia Battistini is 63 years old, and she's been a \u003cem>sfoglina\u003c/em> for some 50 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68919\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/sfoglina-tortellini.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/sfoglina-tortellini.jpg\" alt=\"Grazia Battistini, 63, has been been making tortellini as a <em>sfoglina </em>for about 50 years. A statue of the ideal tortellino shape sits in the foreground. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\" width=\"290\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68919\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grazia Battistini, 63, has been been making tortellini as a \u003cem>sfoglina \u003c/em>for about 50 years. A statue of the ideal tortellino shape sits in the foreground. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Grandmothers and mothers handed down the tradition to daughters and granddaughters. We started when we were 7 or 8 years old,\" she says. \"If we couldn't reach the tabletop, they gave us a stool to stand on. Little by little, we learned to roll and then to cut the pasta. We had to be careful not to cut our fingers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For most of her life, Battistini says, making fresh egg pasta was an activity that involved the entire family. \"It was an occasion for socialization,\" she says. \"We were all together, men, women, children, everyone working together collectively.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Battistini gives us a demonstration on a wooden tabletop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For every 4 ounces of flour, we use one egg,\" she says. \"We make a crater in the center of the flour, and we break the eggs in the center and whisk briskly with a fork.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Battistini then starts mixing and scraping, and kneading the dough mostly with the palm of her hands — for at least 10 minutes. Once it's smooth and in the shape of a ball, she sets it aside to rest and starts on the filling, a mixture of prosciutto, mortadella, pork loin, eggs, Parmesan cheese and nutmeg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Battistini then returns to the \u003cem>sfoglia\u003c/em>\u003cem>. \u003c/em>Her entire body sways, rhythmically and sensually, as she stretches the dough over and over again with a rolling pin until it forms a large paper-thin sheet, not more than 1 millimeter thick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the sheet is ready, Battistini starts cutting it in strips and then into little squares 3 centimeters per side. She puts a dab of filling in the center, folds the square into a triangle, presses it, then rolls it around her index finger — out comes the belly-button shaped dumpling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like most Italians, Battistini has little patience for culinary experimentation and observes a rigid dogma in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68920\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortelloni.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortelloni-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Hand-made tortelloni – the larger size — are displayed at a grocery store in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-68920\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hand-made tortelloni – the larger size — are displayed at a grocery store in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The tortellino can \u003cem>only\u003c/em> be served in broth, that's what tradition teaches us. Of course, some people today serve it with butter, cream or tomato sauce, but then they're killing the taste of the filling.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once upon a time, a young man seeking a wife wanted first and foremost a master \u003cem>sfoglina\u003c/em>. But starting in the 1960s, women started working outside the home, and many no longer know how to make fresh egg pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The art of making tortellino is endangered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, a group of young graphic designers from Modena has produced \u003ca href=\"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewSoftware?id=676588559&mt=8\">an app\u003c/a> to safeguard the art of making tortellino, its history and the role in plays in the local culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lucia Barbieri says it's aimed at teaching everyone how to make tortellini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For example, men are showing a keen interest in making tortellino,\" Barbieri says. \"When I get together with a group of friends to make pasta, the men are always most enthusiastic as they learn an art that always belonged to women alone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile in Bologna, a new business opened last fall in the center of town — it's a tortellino-to-go joint, appropriately called Tortellino Bologna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Open every day until midnight, it caters to students, office workers and even housewives. Customers can order online.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's the brainchild of Federico Spisani, who left his job in a bank to embark on an effort to safeguard his grandmother's culinary traditions with a contemporary twist. He has enlisted an army of \u003cem>sfogline\u003c/em> — several of whom are in their 80s — to prepare fresh pasta every day. Servings come in Styrofoam cups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I try to unite the Italian quality of food — the best, in my opinion, in the world, — in a very fast-food way, cheap and fast,\" Spisani says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we leave, two well-dressed, middle-aged women enter the shop circumspectly and, probably hoping nobody will recognize them, they order two servings of takeaway tortellino.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"//instagram.com/p/dhMNP7OIxz/embed/\" width=\"612\" height=\"710\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" allowtransparency=\"true\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Turning Off The Spigot In Western Kansas Farmland",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68899\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/water-farm.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/water-farm.jpg\" alt=\"An irrigation pivot waters a corn field in Nebraska. Many farmers in Nebraska and Kansas rely on irrigation to water their corn fields. But the underground aquifer they draw from will run dry. Photo: Nati Harnik/AP\" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68899\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An irrigation pivot waters a corn field in Nebraska. Many farmers in Nebraska and Kansas rely on irrigation to water their corn fields. But the underground aquifer they draw from will run dry. Photo: Nati Harnik/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/27/215831484/turning-off-the-spigot-in-western-kansas-farmland\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/08/20130827_me_08.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/27/215831484/turning-off-the-spigot-in-western-kansas-farmland\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/27/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Across the high plains, many farmers depend on underground stores of water, and they worry about wells going dry. A new scientific \u003ca href=\"http://www.pnas.org/content/early/2013/08/14/1220351110.abstract\">study\u003c/a> of western Kansas lays out a predicted timeline for those fears to become reality. But it also shows an alternative path for farming in Kansas: The moment of reckoning can be delayed, and the impact softened, if farmers start conserving water now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ce.ksu.edu/people/faculty/steward\">David Steward\u003c/a>, a water expert at Kansas State University, says that he and his colleagues started this research project with a specific kind of person in mind: \"The family farmer who's trying to see into the future, and trying to pass on his or her land to their grandchildren.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Farmers in western Kansas have good reason to worry about the future. They know that that big irrigated fields of corn in this part of the country are taking water out of underground aquifers much faster than rain or snow can fill those natural reservoirs back up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Steward decided to come up with better estimates for how soon the aquifers will go dry, and how that will affect farmers. He got together with experts on growing corn and raising livestock. \"We were trying to provide a little bit better glimpse into the future, so that people would have a better idea how to plan,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to their calculations, if Kansas farmers keep pumping water out of the High Plains aquifer as they have in the past, the amount of water they're able to extract will start to fall in just 10 years or so. They'll still be able to continue harvesting more corn for another generation, though, because technology — better irrigation systems and genetically improved corn — will let them use that water more efficiently.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But after that, even the latest technology won't save the corn fields. Irrigated fields will start to disappear, followed by cattle feedlots. The long expansion of agricultural production in western Kansas will end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet Steward and his colleagues also lay out some alternative paths that the farmers of Kansas could take. For instance, if farmers reduced their water use by 20 percent right now, it would take a big bite out of their corn production, but production then would resume growing. It wouldn't peak until 2070, and then it would decline much more gradually. \"If we're able to save as much water as possible now, the more we save, the more corn we'll be able to grow into the future,\" Steward says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These predictions appear in in this week's issue of the \u003cem>Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The exact numbers are new, but the issue of water conservation is a familiar one in western Kansas. Thirty years ago, local governments in several parts of the region set up groundwater management districts - essentially, committees for discussing ways to attack the problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mark Rude, executive director of the groundwater management \u003ca href=\"http://www.gmd3.org/index.html\">district\u003c/a> for southwest Kansas, says that discussion can turn emotional, \"because there's nothing more fundamental to the local family farm than the water supply.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, he says, the families on those farms are worried about the future. They want their grandchildren to have plenty of water, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rude says, in his district, they've discussed lots of alternatives for how to reduce water use: Cuts in irrigated acres; cuts in the amount of water used on each acre. But it's mostly talk so far, rather than action, for a very practical reason. His agency may not have the legal authority to force farmers to cut back on their water use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those farmers own rights to water the way they own land. Any rule that tries to restrict that right could be challenged in court. \"The last thing people really want to see is simply a whole lot of court cases,\" Rude says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The groundwater management districts have been trying to avoid that outcome by coming up with plans that everyone can support.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a model for this. In one small \u003ca href=\"http://www.ksda.gov/water_management_services/?cid=2021\">area\u003c/a> in northwestern Kansas, farmers have agreed to use 20 percent less water for the next five years. \"It's an experiment, and a lot of people are watching that,\" Rude says. \"And of course, that figures prominently in the conversations about, 'If we were going to do it, how would we do it?' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If they can't come up with a plan for cutting water use, of course, eventually the natural laws of hydrology will step in. Farmers will use less water when the wells go dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "If Kansas farmers keep pumping water out of the High Plains aquifer as they have in the past, the amount of water they can extract will start to fall in just 10 years or so, scientists predict. That will cause big changes in the agricultural economy. But reducing water use now could help delay and ease that disruption.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68899\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/water-farm.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/water-farm.jpg\" alt=\"An irrigation pivot waters a corn field in Nebraska. Many farmers in Nebraska and Kansas rely on irrigation to water their corn fields. But the underground aquifer they draw from will run dry. Photo: Nati Harnik/AP\" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68899\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An irrigation pivot waters a corn field in Nebraska. Many farmers in Nebraska and Kansas rely on irrigation to water their corn fields. But the underground aquifer they draw from will run dry. Photo: Nati Harnik/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/27/215831484/turning-off-the-spigot-in-western-kansas-farmland\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/27/215831484/turning-off-the-spigot-in-western-kansas-farmland\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/27/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Across the high plains, many farmers depend on underground stores of water, and they worry about wells going dry. A new scientific \u003ca href=\"http://www.pnas.org/content/early/2013/08/14/1220351110.abstract\">study\u003c/a> of western Kansas lays out a predicted timeline for those fears to become reality. But it also shows an alternative path for farming in Kansas: The moment of reckoning can be delayed, and the impact softened, if farmers start conserving water now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ce.ksu.edu/people/faculty/steward\">David Steward\u003c/a>, a water expert at Kansas State University, says that he and his colleagues started this research project with a specific kind of person in mind: \"The family farmer who's trying to see into the future, and trying to pass on his or her land to their grandchildren.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Farmers in western Kansas have good reason to worry about the future. They know that that big irrigated fields of corn in this part of the country are taking water out of underground aquifers much faster than rain or snow can fill those natural reservoirs back up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Steward decided to come up with better estimates for how soon the aquifers will go dry, and how that will affect farmers. He got together with experts on growing corn and raising livestock. \"We were trying to provide a little bit better glimpse into the future, so that people would have a better idea how to plan,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to their calculations, if Kansas farmers keep pumping water out of the High Plains aquifer as they have in the past, the amount of water they're able to extract will start to fall in just 10 years or so. They'll still be able to continue harvesting more corn for another generation, though, because technology — better irrigation systems and genetically improved corn — will let them use that water more efficiently.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But after that, even the latest technology won't save the corn fields. Irrigated fields will start to disappear, followed by cattle feedlots. The long expansion of agricultural production in western Kansas will end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet Steward and his colleagues also lay out some alternative paths that the farmers of Kansas could take. For instance, if farmers reduced their water use by 20 percent right now, it would take a big bite out of their corn production, but production then would resume growing. It wouldn't peak until 2070, and then it would decline much more gradually. \"If we're able to save as much water as possible now, the more we save, the more corn we'll be able to grow into the future,\" Steward says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These predictions appear in in this week's issue of the \u003cem>Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The exact numbers are new, but the issue of water conservation is a familiar one in western Kansas. Thirty years ago, local governments in several parts of the region set up groundwater management districts - essentially, committees for discussing ways to attack the problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mark Rude, executive director of the groundwater management \u003ca href=\"http://www.gmd3.org/index.html\">district\u003c/a> for southwest Kansas, says that discussion can turn emotional, \"because there's nothing more fundamental to the local family farm than the water supply.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, he says, the families on those farms are worried about the future. They want their grandchildren to have plenty of water, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rude says, in his district, they've discussed lots of alternatives for how to reduce water use: Cuts in irrigated acres; cuts in the amount of water used on each acre. But it's mostly talk so far, rather than action, for a very practical reason. His agency may not have the legal authority to force farmers to cut back on their water use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those farmers own rights to water the way they own land. Any rule that tries to restrict that right could be challenged in court. \"The last thing people really want to see is simply a whole lot of court cases,\" Rude says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The groundwater management districts have been trying to avoid that outcome by coming up with plans that everyone can support.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a model for this. In one small \u003ca href=\"http://www.ksda.gov/water_management_services/?cid=2021\">area\u003c/a> in northwestern Kansas, farmers have agreed to use 20 percent less water for the next five years. \"It's an experiment, and a lot of people are watching that,\" Rude says. \"And of course, that figures prominently in the conversations about, 'If we were going to do it, how would we do it?' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If they can't come up with a plan for cutting water use, of course, eventually the natural laws of hydrology will step in. Farmers will use less water when the wells go dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "In the Beginning, There Were ... Dumplings?",
"title": "In the Beginning, There Were ... Dumplings?",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68865\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dumplings.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dumplings.jpg\" alt=\"Buuz are the Mongolian take on the dumpling, and are typically filled with mutton or beef. Dumplings can be found across Europe and Asia and most are stuffed with whatever the locals like to eat. Photo: What'sAllThisThen/Flickr\" width=\"624\" height=\"467\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68865\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Buuz are the Mongolian take on the dumpling, and are typically filled with mutton or beef. Dumplings can be found across Europe and Asia and most are stuffed with whatever the locals like to eat. Photo: What'sAllThisThen/\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/33092397@N00/\">Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/26/214833891/in-the-beginning-there-were-dumplings\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/08/20130826_me_15.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Geoff Brumfiel, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/26/214833891/in-the-beginning-there-were-dumplings\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/26/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From Warsaw to Wuhan, people around the world love dumplings. They're tasty little packages that can be made of any grain and stuffed with whatever the locals crave. But where did they come from?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No one knows for sure, but \u003ca href=\"http://kenalbala.blogspot.com/\">Ken Albala\u003c/a>, a food historian at the University of the Pacific in Stockton, Calif., thinks dumplings have been around for a very long time. \"Almost without doubt, there are prehistoric dumplings,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Albala envisions the origins of the dumplings like this: To get nutrition from wild grains, hunter-gatherer humans had to cook them. Maybe they'd hollow out a log and fill it with water. Then they'd use hot stones from a fire to get the water boiling. They'd throw in the grain, he says. \"And I think it's a very fine line between putting in loose flour or meal, and getting a porridge out of it, or putting in lumps,\" and getting out dumplings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given a choice between gruel and dumplings, Albala says, many people would have chosen the dumpling. \"A dumpling, I don't know, it seems like more fun to me,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the earliest archaeological evidence for dumplings date from over a thousand years ago, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.fuchsiadunlop.com/\">Fuchsia Dunlop\u003c/a>, a food writer who specializes in Chinese cuisine. Archaeologists have found wooden bowls filled with dumplings from eighth century \u003ca href=\"http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/tang/hd_tang.htm\">Tang Dynasty\u003c/a> graves \"that look exactly the same as you'd see served in a restaurant in the area today,\" Dunlop says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dumplings were also around in Renaissance Europe, adds Albala. \"The recipes start showing up in the 15\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century,\" he says, often under the heading \"gnocchi.\" \"Basically, you just take breadcrumbs, you add flour to it, sometimes cheese, sometimes herbs and egg to bind it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"//instagram.com/p/ded7wxOI48/embed/\" width=\"612\" height=\"710\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" allowtransparency=\"true\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, dumplings exist across Europe and Asia. Many are called \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manti_(dumpling)\">manti\u003c/a>, or some variation thereof. Most are stuffed with whatever the locals like to eat: In the far west of China, it's mutton, in the Himalayas \u003ca href=\"http://toastpoint.blogspot.com/2007/05/tibetan-momo-or-yak-dumplings.html\">it might be Yak meat\u003c/a>. In fact, says Dunlop, they're all pretty much the same as what the Chinese call \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wonton\">wontons\u003c/a> and the Italians call \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tortellini\">tortellini\u003c/a>. \"So the same methods, the same shapes of wrapped dumpling all the way from Italy, right across Asia to China and even Korea,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's the endless variation on the theme that make dumplings something to celebrate, says Scott Drewno, the executive chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.wolfgangpuck.com/restaurants/fine-dining/3941\">The Source\u003c/a> restaurant in Washington, D.C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An NPR dumpling week? It's not enough, he says. There are a thousand different possible types of dumplings: different folds, different fillings, different sauces, he says. \"You could do a month if you wanted to.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Chef Drewno's \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>Pork Potstickers with Black Vinegar Dipping Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003ch5>\u003c/h5>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For Potsticker Filling\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 lb pork butt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tb cure salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb chopped garlic\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tb chopped ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup oyster sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tsp black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tsp white pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup chopped cilantro\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ cup scallions, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tb sesame oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup dried cherries, reconstituted, drained\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup dried apricots, reconstituted, drained\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup golden raisins, reconstituted, drained\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instructions: Mix all ingredients in bowl. Place in freezer for 20 minutes. Grind in mixer with ¼ inch die. Mix in KitchenAid with paddle attachment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>To Fill Potsickers\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Storebought potsticker skins\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Egg Yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Instructions: \u003c/em>Place potsticker skin on table. Brush half with egg yolk. Place small amount of filling in center of skin. Fold skin in half, and pleat along top using thumb and forefinger. Press bottom gently against cutting board, then bend in crescent shape.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>Place in boiling water, cook 3 to 4 minutes til fully cooked through. Drain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place in hot sauté pan with peanut oil and cook on one side until golden brown. Remove and place on plate with black vinegar dipping sauce (recipe follows). Garnish with carrot strings, beet strings, and daikon strings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For Black Vinegar Dipping Sauce\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tsp black vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 cup chili oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tsp sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb soy sauce ( kikoman or yamasa )\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb mushroom soy sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup rice vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb ginger, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Instructions:\u003c/em> Place all ingredients in bowl and mix well. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "From Warsaw to Wuhan, people around the world love dumplings. They're tasty little packages that can be made of any grain and stuffed with whatever the locals crave. But where did they come from? Some think prehistoric people may have been cooking them up.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68865\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dumplings.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dumplings.jpg\" alt=\"Buuz are the Mongolian take on the dumpling, and are typically filled with mutton or beef. Dumplings can be found across Europe and Asia and most are stuffed with whatever the locals like to eat. Photo: What'sAllThisThen/Flickr\" width=\"624\" height=\"467\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68865\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Buuz are the Mongolian take on the dumpling, and are typically filled with mutton or beef. Dumplings can be found across Europe and Asia and most are stuffed with whatever the locals like to eat. Photo: What'sAllThisThen/\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/33092397@N00/\">Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/26/214833891/in-the-beginning-there-were-dumplings\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Geoff Brumfiel, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/26/214833891/in-the-beginning-there-were-dumplings\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/26/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From Warsaw to Wuhan, people around the world love dumplings. They're tasty little packages that can be made of any grain and stuffed with whatever the locals crave. But where did they come from?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No one knows for sure, but \u003ca href=\"http://kenalbala.blogspot.com/\">Ken Albala\u003c/a>, a food historian at the University of the Pacific in Stockton, Calif., thinks dumplings have been around for a very long time. \"Almost without doubt, there are prehistoric dumplings,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Albala envisions the origins of the dumplings like this: To get nutrition from wild grains, hunter-gatherer humans had to cook them. Maybe they'd hollow out a log and fill it with water. Then they'd use hot stones from a fire to get the water boiling. They'd throw in the grain, he says. \"And I think it's a very fine line between putting in loose flour or meal, and getting a porridge out of it, or putting in lumps,\" and getting out dumplings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given a choice between gruel and dumplings, Albala says, many people would have chosen the dumpling. \"A dumpling, I don't know, it seems like more fun to me,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the earliest archaeological evidence for dumplings date from over a thousand years ago, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.fuchsiadunlop.com/\">Fuchsia Dunlop\u003c/a>, a food writer who specializes in Chinese cuisine. Archaeologists have found wooden bowls filled with dumplings from eighth century \u003ca href=\"http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/tang/hd_tang.htm\">Tang Dynasty\u003c/a> graves \"that look exactly the same as you'd see served in a restaurant in the area today,\" Dunlop says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dumplings were also around in Renaissance Europe, adds Albala. \"The recipes start showing up in the 15\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century,\" he says, often under the heading \"gnocchi.\" \"Basically, you just take breadcrumbs, you add flour to it, sometimes cheese, sometimes herbs and egg to bind it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"//instagram.com/p/ded7wxOI48/embed/\" width=\"612\" height=\"710\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" allowtransparency=\"true\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, dumplings exist across Europe and Asia. Many are called \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manti_(dumpling)\">manti\u003c/a>, or some variation thereof. Most are stuffed with whatever the locals like to eat: In the far west of China, it's mutton, in the Himalayas \u003ca href=\"http://toastpoint.blogspot.com/2007/05/tibetan-momo-or-yak-dumplings.html\">it might be Yak meat\u003c/a>. In fact, says Dunlop, they're all pretty much the same as what the Chinese call \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wonton\">wontons\u003c/a> and the Italians call \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tortellini\">tortellini\u003c/a>. \"So the same methods, the same shapes of wrapped dumpling all the way from Italy, right across Asia to China and even Korea,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's the endless variation on the theme that make dumplings something to celebrate, says Scott Drewno, the executive chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.wolfgangpuck.com/restaurants/fine-dining/3941\">The Source\u003c/a> restaurant in Washington, D.C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An NPR dumpling week? It's not enough, he says. There are a thousand different possible types of dumplings: different folds, different fillings, different sauces, he says. \"You could do a month if you wanted to.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Chef Drewno's \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>Pork Potstickers with Black Vinegar Dipping Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003ch5>\u003c/h5>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For Potsticker Filling\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 lb pork butt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tb cure salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb chopped garlic\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tb chopped ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup oyster sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tsp black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tsp white pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup chopped cilantro\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ cup scallions, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tb sesame oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup dried cherries, reconstituted, drained\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup dried apricots, reconstituted, drained\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup golden raisins, reconstituted, drained\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instructions: Mix all ingredients in bowl. Place in freezer for 20 minutes. Grind in mixer with ¼ inch die. Mix in KitchenAid with paddle attachment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>To Fill Potsickers\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Storebought potsticker skins\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Egg Yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Instructions: \u003c/em>Place potsticker skin on table. Brush half with egg yolk. Place small amount of filling in center of skin. Fold skin in half, and pleat along top using thumb and forefinger. Press bottom gently against cutting board, then bend in crescent shape.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>Place in boiling water, cook 3 to 4 minutes til fully cooked through. Drain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place in hot sauté pan with peanut oil and cook on one side until golden brown. Remove and place on plate with black vinegar dipping sauce (recipe follows). Garnish with carrot strings, beet strings, and daikon strings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For Black Vinegar Dipping Sauce\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tsp black vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 cup chili oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tsp sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb soy sauce ( kikoman or yamasa )\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb mushroom soy sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>¼ cup rice vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tb ginger, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Instructions:\u003c/em> Place all ingredients in bowl and mix well. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Dishwasher Cooking: Make Your Dinner While Cleaning The Plates",
"title": "Dishwasher Cooking: Make Your Dinner While Cleaning The Plates",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dishwashercooking.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dishwashercooking.jpg\" alt=\"Food writer Dan Pashman says poached pears are great in the dishwasher. We're not sure about the asparagus, but we'll let you know after the cycle finishes. Photo: Maggie Starbard/NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68834\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Food writer Dan Pashman says poached pears are great in the dishwasher. We're not sure about the asparagus, but we'll let you know after the cycle finishes. Photo: Maggie Starbard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/25/214799882/dishwasher-cooking-make-your-dinner-while-cleaning-the-plates\">Weekend Edition Sunday\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesun/2013/08/20130825_wesun_07.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Michaeleen Doucleff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/25/214799882/dishwasher-cooking-make-your-dinner-while-cleaning-the-plates\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/25/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mom is a creative cook. And a darn good one at that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when she told me and my sister — way back in 1995 — that she had started cooking salmon in the dishwasher, we just rolled our eyes and shook our heads. Here comes a kitchen catastrophe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An hour later, mom proved her teenage daughters wrong once again. The salmon was tender, moist and super flavorful. In some ways, it was better than her fish cooked in the oven.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flash-forward 18 years, and dishwasher cuisine seems to be making a comeback.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Here's How To Poach Salmon In The Dishwasher\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"//instagram.com/p/dZqjZdLZoE/embed/\" width=\"612\" height=\"710\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" allowtransparency=\"true\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A handful of YouTube videos and food blogs are showing off the method. And even Oprah \u003ca href=\"http://www.oprah.com/food/Lunch-Cooked-in-the-Dishwasher\">offered up\u003c/a> a recipe for an entire lunch — noodles, asparagus and salmon — prepared in the dishwasher.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how does it work?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You wrap the salmon tightly in aluminum foil or a cooking bag. Add a lemon wedge, oil and some spices — cilantro, ginger or really, anything that you want. Put the foil package on the top rack and start a normal washing cycle, without adding soap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's the traditional method. And it works great. The hot water and steam essentially poach the salmon. And at the low temperature, about 140 to 150 degrees Fahrenheit, the fish cooks very slowly, so it turns creamy and soft, as Dan Pashman of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sporkful.com/dishwasher-cooking-gimmick-or-goodness-a-sporkful-investigation-audio-video/\">Sporkful\u003c/a> podcast tells \u003cem>Weekend Edition Sunday\u003c/em> host Rachel Martin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But is this really worth the time and energy? Running a dishwasher uses a lot of electricity and water. And if you're not adding soap, then you still need to repeat the wash to clean greasy pots and pans. Seems like just a gimmick to impress dinner guests, right?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not quite, says Italian food writer \u003ca href=\"http://ecocucinaen.wordpress.com/about/\">Lisa Casali\u003c/a>. She argues that the method can be quite environmentally friendly. There's just one trick: Instead of using aluminum foil, as many websites recommend, you should put the food into airtight canning jars or food vacuum bags. Then the hot water doesn't touch the food. So you can add soap to the cycle and really clean your dishes while poaching dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Casali has been experimenting with dishwasher cuisine for a few years. And the result is her cookbook \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Cucinare-lavastoviglie-sostenibilit%C3%A0-risparmio-rivoluzionario/dp/8858004345\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Cucinare in Lavastoviglie\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Cooking with the dishwasher), which gives recipes for a whole array of dishes, like couscous, veal, tuna and even fruits and desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dishwasher cooking is best for foods that need to be cooked at low temperatures, Casali says. \"After some experiments, I found that it wasn't just a different way to cook — it was a really particular technique,\" she says. \"Something I was looking for years: the way to cook at low temperature at home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, Casali's book appears to be available only in Italian. But the innovative chef has put together a few how-to \u003ca href=\"http://vimeo.com/search?q=Lisa+Casali\">videos\u003c/a> on Vimeo, with English subtitles, describing top recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or you can \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=5RiQ5mMyNM8\">watch\u003c/a> Pashman on YouTube cook everything from shrimp and beef to spinach and pears in the dishwasher. Bon appétit! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[youtube //www.youtube.com/watch?v=5RiQ5mMyNM8]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dishwashercooking.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dishwashercooking.jpg\" alt=\"Food writer Dan Pashman says poached pears are great in the dishwasher. We're not sure about the asparagus, but we'll let you know after the cycle finishes. Photo: Maggie Starbard/NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68834\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Food writer Dan Pashman says poached pears are great in the dishwasher. We're not sure about the asparagus, but we'll let you know after the cycle finishes. Photo: Maggie Starbard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/25/214799882/dishwasher-cooking-make-your-dinner-while-cleaning-the-plates\">Weekend Edition Sunday\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flash-forward 18 years, and dishwasher cuisine seems to be making a comeback.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Here's How To Poach Salmon In The Dishwasher\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"//instagram.com/p/dZqjZdLZoE/embed/\" width=\"612\" height=\"710\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" allowtransparency=\"true\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A handful of YouTube videos and food blogs are showing off the method. And even Oprah \u003ca href=\"http://www.oprah.com/food/Lunch-Cooked-in-the-Dishwasher\">offered up\u003c/a> a recipe for an entire lunch — noodles, asparagus and salmon — prepared in the dishwasher.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how does it work?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You wrap the salmon tightly in aluminum foil or a cooking bag. Add a lemon wedge, oil and some spices — cilantro, ginger or really, anything that you want. Put the foil package on the top rack and start a normal washing cycle, without adding soap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's the traditional method. And it works great. The hot water and steam essentially poach the salmon. And at the low temperature, about 140 to 150 degrees Fahrenheit, the fish cooks very slowly, so it turns creamy and soft, as Dan Pashman of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sporkful.com/dishwasher-cooking-gimmick-or-goodness-a-sporkful-investigation-audio-video/\">Sporkful\u003c/a> podcast tells \u003cem>Weekend Edition Sunday\u003c/em> host Rachel Martin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But is this really worth the time and energy? Running a dishwasher uses a lot of electricity and water. And if you're not adding soap, then you still need to repeat the wash to clean greasy pots and pans. Seems like just a gimmick to impress dinner guests, right?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not quite, says Italian food writer \u003ca href=\"http://ecocucinaen.wordpress.com/about/\">Lisa Casali\u003c/a>. She argues that the method can be quite environmentally friendly. There's just one trick: Instead of using aluminum foil, as many websites recommend, you should put the food into airtight canning jars or food vacuum bags. Then the hot water doesn't touch the food. So you can add soap to the cycle and really clean your dishes while poaching dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Casali has been experimenting with dishwasher cuisine for a few years. And the result is her cookbook \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Cucinare-lavastoviglie-sostenibilit%C3%A0-risparmio-rivoluzionario/dp/8858004345\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>Cucinare in Lavastoviglie\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Cooking with the dishwasher), which gives recipes for a whole array of dishes, like couscous, veal, tuna and even fruits and desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dishwasher cooking is best for foods that need to be cooked at low temperatures, Casali says. \"After some experiments, I found that it wasn't just a different way to cook — it was a really particular technique,\" she says. \"Something I was looking for years: the way to cook at low temperature at home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, Casali's book appears to be available only in Italian. But the innovative chef has put together a few how-to \u003ca href=\"http://vimeo.com/search?q=Lisa+Casali\">videos\u003c/a> on Vimeo, with English subtitles, describing top recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or you can \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=5RiQ5mMyNM8\">watch\u003c/a> Pashman on YouTube cook everything from shrimp and beef to spinach and pears in the dishwasher. Bon appétit! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/5RiQ5mMyNM8'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/5RiQ5mMyNM8'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Wine Has Sommeliers. Now, Beer Has Cicerones",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68763\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/cicerone.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/cicerone.jpg\" alt=\"Ray Daniels inspects a glass of beer. A Chicago brewer, Daniels started the Cicerone training program five years ago. Photo: Johnny Knight/Courtesy of Ray Daniels\" width=\"1120\" height=\"630\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68763\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ray Daniels inspects a glass of beer. A Chicago brewer, Daniels started the Cicerone training program five years ago. Photo: Johnny Knight/Courtesy of Ray Daniels\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/24/214582851/wine-has-sommeliers-now-beer-has-cicerones\">Weekend Edition Saturday\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesat/2013/08/20130824_wesat_16.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Deena Prichep, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/24/214582851/wine-has-sommeliers-now-beer-has-cicerones\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/24/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you've been to a fancy restaurant, you've probably seen a sommelier — those wine experts who make sure you get the best possible match for your meal. But what if you don't want a chardonnay or pinot? What if you want a nice cold beer?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A new program is working to bring this same level of knowledge to the world of malt and hops by turning out batches of certified beer experts known as \u003ca href=\"https://cicerone.org/\">Cicerones\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ray Daniels, a Chicago brewer, started the Cicerone Certification Program five years ago. And he jokes that he did so for a fairly simple reason: bad beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You'd go into a place that had a lot of taps, that you'd think might know their beer. And they really didn't,\" Daniels sighed. So Daniels came up with the Cicerone exam to standardize a canon of beery knowledge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are three levels of of Cicerones, starting out with Certified Beer Servers (an online exam), Certified Cicerones (an in-person test, complete with a tasting component), and the top level of Master Cicerone (an in-person exam lasting two days). The exams focus on five basic components: keeping and serving beer; beer styles; flavor and tasting; brewing process and ingredients; and beer and food pairing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This may sound a bit complex. And it is: Only about a third of test takers pass (and the numbers are even lower for the Master Cicerone certification). But Daniels stresses that he's not trying to set up some elitist system. Enjoying a beer is a simple pleasure. It's just that beer itself isn't so simple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Beer is a fragile product,\" Daniels notes. \"It can be ruined instantly by certain types of handling. So the people in the beer business — from the brewery all the way to the waiter or waitress — need to understand the complexity of beer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So far, only seven people have achieved the top level of Master Cicerone. But about 900 have passed the regular exam, and an additional 27,000 have become Certified Beer Servers. And the beer world is taking notice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many breweries encourage employees — from brewers to servers to distributors — to study for the Cicerone exam. Portland-based craft brewer \u003ca href=\"http://widmerbrothers.com/\">Widmer Brothers\u003c/a> has gone a step further: It pays for exams and sets up study programs, and it will even require the basic level for certain employees by the end of the year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Widmer's brewing manager, John Eaton, says it makes a lot of sense. \"The last thing a brewer wants,\" he says, \"is for a consumer's first interaction with your beer to be not the beer that you wanted them to interact with.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that bad interaction can happen when there's something wrong with the beer — from dirty keg lines to brewing mishaps — which the Cicerone training will help employees identify. But Eaton says a bad interaction could also happen when someone just doesn't know how to give you the right beer. While wine has its own language, beer servers are often at a loss as to how best to match a drinker to the right beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's actually one of my biggest pet peeves,\" Eaton notes, \"is people will say something like a dark beer is automatically heavy or bitter — neither of which is necessarily the case. All different colors of beer can be all different ranges of bitterness and can be all different ranges of density.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And when Cicerones study up so that they understand — and can communicate — these differences, there's a better chance that they can help get the right beer into customers' hands. And that's something that any beer lover can drink to. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You'd go into a place that had a lot of taps, that you'd think might know their beer. And they really didn't,\" Daniels sighed. So Daniels came up with the Cicerone exam to standardize a canon of beery knowledge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are three levels of of Cicerones, starting out with Certified Beer Servers (an online exam), Certified Cicerones (an in-person test, complete with a tasting component), and the top level of Master Cicerone (an in-person exam lasting two days). The exams focus on five basic components: keeping and serving beer; beer styles; flavor and tasting; brewing process and ingredients; and beer and food pairing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This may sound a bit complex. And it is: Only about a third of test takers pass (and the numbers are even lower for the Master Cicerone certification). But Daniels stresses that he's not trying to set up some elitist system. Enjoying a beer is a simple pleasure. It's just that beer itself isn't so simple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Beer is a fragile product,\" Daniels notes. \"It can be ruined instantly by certain types of handling. So the people in the beer business — from the brewery all the way to the waiter or waitress — need to understand the complexity of beer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So far, only seven people have achieved the top level of Master Cicerone. But about 900 have passed the regular exam, and an additional 27,000 have become Certified Beer Servers. And the beer world is taking notice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many breweries encourage employees — from brewers to servers to distributors — to study for the Cicerone exam. Portland-based craft brewer \u003ca href=\"http://widmerbrothers.com/\">Widmer Brothers\u003c/a> has gone a step further: It pays for exams and sets up study programs, and it will even require the basic level for certain employees by the end of the year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Widmer's brewing manager, John Eaton, says it makes a lot of sense. \"The last thing a brewer wants,\" he says, \"is for a consumer's first interaction with your beer to be not the beer that you wanted them to interact with.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that bad interaction can happen when there's something wrong with the beer — from dirty keg lines to brewing mishaps — which the Cicerone training will help employees identify. But Eaton says a bad interaction could also happen when someone just doesn't know how to give you the right beer. While wine has its own language, beer servers are often at a loss as to how best to match a drinker to the right beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's actually one of my biggest pet peeves,\" Eaton notes, \"is people will say something like a dark beer is automatically heavy or bitter — neither of which is necessarily the case. All different colors of beer can be all different ranges of bitterness and can be all different ranges of density.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And when Cicerones study up so that they understand — and can communicate — these differences, there's a better chance that they can help get the right beer into customers' hands. And that's something that any beer lover can drink to. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Reviving An Heirloom Corn That Packs More Flavor And Nutrition",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68745\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dan-barber.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dan-barber.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Dan Barber prepares polenta with an heirloom corn variety at the Blue Hill restaurant in the Hudson River Valley. Photo: Courtesy of Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture\" width=\"1120\" height=\"629\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68745\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Dan Barber prepares polenta with an heirloom corn variety at the Blue Hill restaurant in the Hudson River Valley. Photo: Courtesy of Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/22/209844877/reviving-an-heirloom-corn-that-packs-more-flavor-and-nutrition\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/08/20130822_atc_08.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Allison Aubrey, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/22/209844877/reviving-an-heirloom-corn-that-packs-more-flavor-and-nutrition\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/22/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One day about eight years ago, chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.bluehillfarm.com/food/overview/team/dan-barber\">Dan Barber\u003c/a> of the famed \u003ca href=\"http://bluehillfarm.com/food/blue-hill-stone-barns\">Blue Hill\u003c/a> restaurant at \u003ca href=\"http://www.stonebarnscenter.org/\">Stone Barns\u003c/a> in the Hudson River Valley got a FedEx package from someone he didn't know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside were two ears of corn. And a letter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The handwritten note explained that the corn was an heirloom variety called New England Eight Row Flint (or \u003cem>Otto File\u003c/em>, by its Italian name), and that it was a taste that was nearly lost to history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Native Americans cultivated this variety hundreds of years ago. The corn caught on with settlers in New England because it was hearty and nutritious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68746\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dan-barber-corn.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dan-barber-corn-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"The heirloom corn variety has only eight rows of kernels and hence, its name: New England Eight Row Flint. Photo: Courtesy of Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-68746\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The heirloom corn variety has only eight rows of kernels and hence, its name: New England Eight Row Flint. Photo: Courtesy of Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then, in the 19th century, the grain was exported to Italy, where it was prized as a stunningly flavorful polenta corn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barber was curious. So he got in touch with the man who had sent the FedEx package, a grain enthusiast named \u003ca href=\"http://ansonmills.com/biographies\"> Glenn Roberts\u003c/a>. He had tracked down Eight Row Flint corn seed from a \u003ca href=\"http://www.ars.usda.gov/main/site_main.htm?modecode=36-25-12-00\">maize seed collection\u003c/a> and grown some.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was phenomenally flavored,\" Roberts told me. \"The flavors were bounding out of the polenta.\" He was eager to revive the corn here in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you listen to my story, you'll hear how chef Barber made an arrangement to start growing the New England heirloom corn at the farm next to his restaurant. And for the past eight years, farmer \u003ca href=\"http://www.stonebarnscenter.org/about-us/staff/jack-algiere.html\">Jack Algiere\u003c/a> has overseen its cultivation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During my visit, Algiere showed me one of the golden-hued cobs still growing on the stalk. \"It will turn a golden orange when it's dry,\" Algiere said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The vibrancy of this yellowish-orange pigment is indicative of high concentrations of beneficial \u003ca href=\"http://www.ars.usda.gov/aboutus/docs.htm?docid=4142\">phytonutrients\u003c/a> called carotenoids, which make this corn appealing for its nutritional value. And it's also fairly high in protein.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So why did farmers stop growing this corn? For everything that New England Eight Row Flint corn has going for it in terms of flavor, its big downside is that it doesn't produce many cobs. It's a low-yield corn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's why farmers moved to higher-yield [varieties],\" explains Algiere. \"They can get more corn per acre at lower quality.\" Farmers produce for bulk because they're paid by the bushel, not by the color or the flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So varieties such as New England Eight Row Flint corn may produce great taste, but they're not really commercially viable unless you convince more people to pay for taste over volume.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's what chef Barber is doing at Blue Hill. He serves a polenta made from the Eight Row Flint corn grown at Stone Barns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And when I tasted it, I was surprised. The polenta tasted as if he had added butter. It was creamy and flavorful. Diners who have been turned onto it say the flavor is stunningly complex. \"It's kinda crazy,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The taste is coming directly from the corn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barber says this corn is just one example of what can happen when crops are bred to be flavorful and colorful, not just big.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chef says he hopes this story becomes more than just a foodie fascination with heirlooms because he thinks there's more at stake here about the way our food is grown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What I've come to learn from this experience is that if you are pursuing great flavor,\" he says, \"you are pursuing great nutrition. It's one and the same.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what he'd like to see is for farmers and plant breeders to work together to combine the best of the old with modern breeding techniques that may help pack more nutrition into the foods we all eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So where can you get your hands on some of these heirloom varieties of dried corn? Well, in Italy a few \u003ca href=\"http://www.greatciao.com/the-best-little-polenta-mill-in-italy/\">boutique millers\u003c/a> grind \u003cem>Otto File\u003c/em> corn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there's a smattering of farms and seed suppliers in the U.S. selling other varieties of Flint corn, such as \u003ca href=\"http://www.seedsavers.org/onlinestore/corn/\">Seed Savers Exchange\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.highmowingseeds.com/organic-corn.html\">High Mowing Seeds\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmfresh.org/food/farm.php?farm=1873\">Harry Here Farm\u003c/a> in Exeter, R.I., grows a variety called Longfellow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One high-protein variety, according to Slow Food USA, is called \u003ca href=\"http://www.slowfoodusa.org/index.php/programs/ark_product_detail/roys_calais_flint_corn\">Roy's Calais\u003c/a> flint. And there's also enthusiasm for a very colorful variety known as \u003ca href=\"http://www.motherearthnews.com/real-food/floriani-grain-corn-zm0z10zsto.aspx#axzz2cAcRBGlW\">Floriani Red\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Imagine corn on the cob that naturally tastes creamy and buttery — no added fat required. Native Americans bred such a variety, but its kernels were almost lost to history. Now one chef is bringing back the heirloom corn — and hoping it will serve as a lesson in what can happen when crops are bred to be flavorful and colorful, not just big.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68745\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dan-barber.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dan-barber.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Dan Barber prepares polenta with an heirloom corn variety at the Blue Hill restaurant in the Hudson River Valley. Photo: Courtesy of Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture\" width=\"1120\" height=\"629\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68745\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Dan Barber prepares polenta with an heirloom corn variety at the Blue Hill restaurant in the Hudson River Valley. Photo: Courtesy of Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/22/209844877/reviving-an-heirloom-corn-that-packs-more-flavor-and-nutrition\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Native Americans cultivated this variety hundreds of years ago. The corn caught on with settlers in New England because it was hearty and nutritious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68746\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dan-barber-corn.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/dan-barber-corn-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"The heirloom corn variety has only eight rows of kernels and hence, its name: New England Eight Row Flint. Photo: Courtesy of Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-68746\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The heirloom corn variety has only eight rows of kernels and hence, its name: New England Eight Row Flint. Photo: Courtesy of Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then, in the 19th century, the grain was exported to Italy, where it was prized as a stunningly flavorful polenta corn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barber was curious. So he got in touch with the man who had sent the FedEx package, a grain enthusiast named \u003ca href=\"http://ansonmills.com/biographies\"> Glenn Roberts\u003c/a>. He had tracked down Eight Row Flint corn seed from a \u003ca href=\"http://www.ars.usda.gov/main/site_main.htm?modecode=36-25-12-00\">maize seed collection\u003c/a> and grown some.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was phenomenally flavored,\" Roberts told me. \"The flavors were bounding out of the polenta.\" He was eager to revive the corn here in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you listen to my story, you'll hear how chef Barber made an arrangement to start growing the New England heirloom corn at the farm next to his restaurant. And for the past eight years, farmer \u003ca href=\"http://www.stonebarnscenter.org/about-us/staff/jack-algiere.html\">Jack Algiere\u003c/a> has overseen its cultivation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During my visit, Algiere showed me one of the golden-hued cobs still growing on the stalk. \"It will turn a golden orange when it's dry,\" Algiere said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The vibrancy of this yellowish-orange pigment is indicative of high concentrations of beneficial \u003ca href=\"http://www.ars.usda.gov/aboutus/docs.htm?docid=4142\">phytonutrients\u003c/a> called carotenoids, which make this corn appealing for its nutritional value. And it's also fairly high in protein.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So why did farmers stop growing this corn? For everything that New England Eight Row Flint corn has going for it in terms of flavor, its big downside is that it doesn't produce many cobs. It's a low-yield corn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's why farmers moved to higher-yield [varieties],\" explains Algiere. \"They can get more corn per acre at lower quality.\" Farmers produce for bulk because they're paid by the bushel, not by the color or the flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So varieties such as New England Eight Row Flint corn may produce great taste, but they're not really commercially viable unless you convince more people to pay for taste over volume.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's what chef Barber is doing at Blue Hill. He serves a polenta made from the Eight Row Flint corn grown at Stone Barns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And when I tasted it, I was surprised. The polenta tasted as if he had added butter. It was creamy and flavorful. Diners who have been turned onto it say the flavor is stunningly complex. \"It's kinda crazy,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The taste is coming directly from the corn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barber says this corn is just one example of what can happen when crops are bred to be flavorful and colorful, not just big.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chef says he hopes this story becomes more than just a foodie fascination with heirlooms because he thinks there's more at stake here about the way our food is grown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What I've come to learn from this experience is that if you are pursuing great flavor,\" he says, \"you are pursuing great nutrition. It's one and the same.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what he'd like to see is for farmers and plant breeders to work together to combine the best of the old with modern breeding techniques that may help pack more nutrition into the foods we all eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So where can you get your hands on some of these heirloom varieties of dried corn? Well, in Italy a few \u003ca href=\"http://www.greatciao.com/the-best-little-polenta-mill-in-italy/\">boutique millers\u003c/a> grind \u003cem>Otto File\u003c/em> corn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there's a smattering of farms and seed suppliers in the U.S. selling other varieties of Flint corn, such as \u003ca href=\"http://www.seedsavers.org/onlinestore/corn/\">Seed Savers Exchange\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.highmowingseeds.com/organic-corn.html\">High Mowing Seeds\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmfresh.org/food/farm.php?farm=1873\">Harry Here Farm\u003c/a> in Exeter, R.I., grows a variety called Longfellow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One high-protein variety, according to Slow Food USA, is called \u003ca href=\"http://www.slowfoodusa.org/index.php/programs/ark_product_detail/roys_calais_flint_corn\">Roy's Calais\u003c/a> flint. And there's also enthusiasm for a very colorful variety known as \u003ca href=\"http://www.motherearthnews.com/real-food/floriani-grain-corn-zm0z10zsto.aspx#axzz2cAcRBGlW\">Floriani Red\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Julia Child Was Wrong: Don't Wash Your Raw Chicken, Folks",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68724\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/julia.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/julia.jpg\" alt='Julia Child poses with \"the chicken sisters\" before an episode of The French Chef in which she teaches us how to roast a bird. Photo: Courtesy of Paul Child/PBS' width=\"1120\" height=\"921\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68724\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Julia Child poses with \"the chicken sisters\" before an episode of The French Chef in which she teaches us how to roast a bird. Photo: Courtesy of Paul Child/PBS\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Maria Godoy, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/23/213578553/julia-child-was-wrong-don-t-wash-your-raw-chicken-folks\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/23/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It seems almost sacrilegious to question the wisdom of Julia Child.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First with her opus \u003cem>Mastering the Art of French Cooking\u003c/em> and later with her PBS cooking show, the unflappably cheerful Child helped rescue home cookery from the clutches of convenience food. She taught us how to love — and take pride in — making something from scratch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, in at least one important kitchen skill, Child got it dead wrong: rinsing raw poultry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I just think it's a safer thing to do,\" Child tells viewers in one clip from \u003cem>The French Chef\u003c/em> in which she shows us the ins and outs of roasting chicken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7dLXEc9tZM&w=560&h=315]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Oh, no!\" says Drexel University food safety researcher \u003ca href=\"http://www.drexel.edu/cnhp/faculty/profiles/QuinlanJennifer/\">Jennifer Quinlan\u003c/a> when I inform her that Child was in the pro-bird-washing camp. \"I don't want to take on that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet take on the doyenne of TV chefs she must. For Quinlan is on a mission to get America's home cooks to drop this widespread habit of washing poultry before cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's no reason, from a scientific point of view, to think you're making it any safer,\" she says, \"and in fact, you're making it less safe.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's because washing increases the chances that you'll spread the foodborne pathogens that are almost certainly on your bird all over the rest of your kitchen too, food safety experts say. We're talking nasty stuff like salmonella and Campylobacter, which together are estimated to cause \u003ca href=\"http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/eid/article/17/1/p1-1101_article.htm\">nearly 1.9 million cases\u003c/a> of foodborne illness in the U.S. each year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some studies suggest bacteria can fly up to \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodsafety.wisc.edu/assets/pdf_Files/Wash%20your%20Hands.pdf\">3 feet away\u003c/a> from where your meat is rinsed — though you can't necessarily see it. If that thought alone doesn't give you pause, perhaps this slimy \"germ vision\" animation will do the trick:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZXDotD4p9c\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But fear not: All you have to do to kill these unwanted bacteria is to cook your meat properly (\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2011/11/10/142212412/why-we-lie-about-using-food-thermometers\">a thermometer\u003c/a> can help) and keep your utensils and cooking surfaces clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Quinlan and her collaborators at New Mexico State University's Department of Media Productions have created a new \u003ca href=\"http://drexel.edu/now/news-media/releases/archive/2013/August/Dont-Wash-Your-Chicken-Food-Safety-Campaign/\">public health campaign\u003c/a> to get the word out about why washing poultry is a bad idea. Her focus-group surveys, conducted as part of a research project funded by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, suggest as many as 90 percent of people rinse their raw birds. The practice is slightly more common among minorities, she says, but pretty much everyone does it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Quinlan expects some people will continue to cling to their bird-rinsing ways. Some people, she notes, just do it because they think their chicken is slimy. \"If your chicken is so slimy that it needs washing, something is wrong,\" she says. \"Other people say, 'That's just how I was taught to do it.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It doesn't help, she says, that many celebrity TV chefs (not just Child) and cookbooks call for this as a first step. But science, says Quinlan, is really giving the lazy a free pass — nay, an \u003cem>imperative\u003c/em> — to cut out this step.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And some people for whom raw-chicken-meat baths have been a source of marital strife may welcome Quinlan's message wholeheartedly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As my colleague Dan Charles told me (sorry, Dan, I'm outing you here): \"I never did [wash my chickens], but then my wife* forced me to. So as soon as this thing is posted, I'm sending it straight to her.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>* Footnote: Dan insisted I note his wife is lovely.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The doyenne of TV chefs imparted much wisdom to American cooks, but one piece of Child's advice you should ignore is to wash your raw poultry before cooking. It spreads germs. Everywhere. Yet studies suggest 90 percent of Americans do it, so food safety researchers are launching a campaign to squash the habit.",
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"description": "The doyenne of TV chefs imparted much wisdom to American cooks, but one piece of Child's advice you should ignore is to wash your raw poultry before cooking. It spreads germs. Everywhere. Yet studies suggest 90 percent of Americans do it, so food safety researchers are launching a campaign to squash the habit.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68724\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/julia.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/julia.jpg\" alt='Julia Child poses with \"the chicken sisters\" before an episode of The French Chef in which she teaches us how to roast a bird. Photo: Courtesy of Paul Child/PBS' width=\"1120\" height=\"921\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68724\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Julia Child poses with \"the chicken sisters\" before an episode of The French Chef in which she teaches us how to roast a bird. Photo: Courtesy of Paul Child/PBS\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Maria Godoy, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/23/213578553/julia-child-was-wrong-don-t-wash-your-raw-chicken-folks\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/23/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It seems almost sacrilegious to question the wisdom of Julia Child.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First with her opus \u003cem>Mastering the Art of French Cooking\u003c/em> and later with her PBS cooking show, the unflappably cheerful Child helped rescue home cookery from the clutches of convenience food. She taught us how to love — and take pride in — making something from scratch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, in at least one important kitchen skill, Child got it dead wrong: rinsing raw poultry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I just think it's a safer thing to do,\" Child tells viewers in one clip from \u003cem>The French Chef\u003c/em> in which she shows us the ins and outs of roasting chicken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/T7dLXEc9tZM'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/T7dLXEc9tZM'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Oh, no!\" says Drexel University food safety researcher \u003ca href=\"http://www.drexel.edu/cnhp/faculty/profiles/QuinlanJennifer/\">Jennifer Quinlan\u003c/a> when I inform her that Child was in the pro-bird-washing camp. \"I don't want to take on that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet take on the doyenne of TV chefs she must. For Quinlan is on a mission to get America's home cooks to drop this widespread habit of washing poultry before cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's no reason, from a scientific point of view, to think you're making it any safer,\" she says, \"and in fact, you're making it less safe.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's because washing increases the chances that you'll spread the foodborne pathogens that are almost certainly on your bird all over the rest of your kitchen too, food safety experts say. We're talking nasty stuff like salmonella and Campylobacter, which together are estimated to cause \u003ca href=\"http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/eid/article/17/1/p1-1101_article.htm\">nearly 1.9 million cases\u003c/a> of foodborne illness in the U.S. each year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some studies suggest bacteria can fly up to \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodsafety.wisc.edu/assets/pdf_Files/Wash%20your%20Hands.pdf\">3 feet away\u003c/a> from where your meat is rinsed — though you can't necessarily see it. If that thought alone doesn't give you pause, perhaps this slimy \"germ vision\" animation will do the trick:\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/JZXDotD4p9c'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/JZXDotD4p9c'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>But fear not: All you have to do to kill these unwanted bacteria is to cook your meat properly (\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2011/11/10/142212412/why-we-lie-about-using-food-thermometers\">a thermometer\u003c/a> can help) and keep your utensils and cooking surfaces clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Quinlan and her collaborators at New Mexico State University's Department of Media Productions have created a new \u003ca href=\"http://drexel.edu/now/news-media/releases/archive/2013/August/Dont-Wash-Your-Chicken-Food-Safety-Campaign/\">public health campaign\u003c/a> to get the word out about why washing poultry is a bad idea. Her focus-group surveys, conducted as part of a research project funded by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, suggest as many as 90 percent of people rinse their raw birds. The practice is slightly more common among minorities, she says, but pretty much everyone does it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Quinlan expects some people will continue to cling to their bird-rinsing ways. Some people, she notes, just do it because they think their chicken is slimy. \"If your chicken is so slimy that it needs washing, something is wrong,\" she says. \"Other people say, 'That's just how I was taught to do it.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It doesn't help, she says, that many celebrity TV chefs (not just Child) and cookbooks call for this as a first step. But science, says Quinlan, is really giving the lazy a free pass — nay, an \u003cem>imperative\u003c/em> — to cut out this step.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And some people for whom raw-chicken-meat baths have been a source of marital strife may welcome Quinlan's message wholeheartedly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As my colleague Dan Charles told me (sorry, Dan, I'm outing you here): \"I never did [wash my chickens], but then my wife* forced me to. So as soon as this thing is posted, I'm sending it straight to her.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>* Footnote: Dan insisted I note his wife is lovely.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Young Farmers Break the Bank Before They Get to the Field",
"title": "Young Farmers Break the Bank Before They Get to the Field",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68691\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/farmers-full.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/farmers-full.jpg\" alt=\"Eva Teague, 31, is trying to start her own pig farm in Colorado but is running into financial obstacles typical of many young farmers trying to break into the business. Photo: Luke Runyon/KUNC/Harvest Public Media\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68691\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eva Teague, 31, is trying to start her own pig farm in Colorado but is running into financial obstacles typical of many young farmers trying to break into the business. Photo: Luke Runyon/KUNC/Harvest Public Media\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/21/213905983/young-farmers-break-the-bank-before-they-get-to-the-field\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/08/20130821_me_17.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/21/213905983/young-farmers-break-the-bank-before-they-get-to-the-field\">Luke Runyon\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/21/213905983/young-farmers-break-the-bank-before-they-get-to-the-field\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/21/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the average age of the American farmer has crept up to 60, fewer young people are filling in the ranks behind them. That's prompted some to ask if young people even want to farm anymore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The quick answer is yes, just not in the same numbers as they used to. And surveys indicate many of them don't want to farm in conventional ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A 2011 \u003ca href=\"http://www.youngfarmers.org/newsroom/building-a-future-with-farmers-october-2011/\">survey\u003c/a> from the National Young Farmers Coalition showed access to land and capital to be the single biggest factors keeping young people from getting into farming or ranching. The survey also indicated young people are concerned about the environment — they're \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2011/12/12/143459793/who-are-the-young-farmers-of-generation-organic\">generation organic\u003c/a>\" — and interested in small-scale operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it can be difficult to turn dreams of a farm life into reality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Longmont, Colo., Eva Teague, 31, has learned how difficult it can be to start a pig farm. Teague is a grad school dropout turned farmer, originally from the East Coast. Jaded with academia, she moved to Colorado and began working as a farm apprentice. She bought her first pigs a couple years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[I] didn't have that much cash, so I paid for feed with the credit card just to get going,\" Teague says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Right now, her biggest challenge, like many other young farmers, is \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2011/11/14/142305869/newbie-farmers-find-that-dirt-isnt-cheap\">access to capital\u003c/a>. She recently secured a low-interest loan from the federal Farm Service Agency, but it's not enough to get her business off the ground completely. Teague still spends her days on the farm and every evening working full-time as a waitress. Next year she plans to take a big leap: She wants to quit her off-farm job and rely solely on her farm income to sustain herself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After searching for plots of land on Craigslist, Teague lucked out and scored a lease for 15 acres at the base of the Rocky Mountains. She taught herself Quickbooks accounting software, and she relies heavily on the skills she picked up during a handful of apprenticeships throughout Colorado. In short, Teague is part of the millennial generation of farmers, a group that often eschews traditional forms of agriculture and favors small-scale operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a very rare person who's not grown up on a farm that's going to go out and say, 'I want to plant 100,000 acres of corn. I want to invest $300,000 in a tractor. I want to get a confinement hog barn with 300,000 pigs,' \" Teague says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, the millennial generation isn't exclusively made up of farmers \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/14/188647380/new-blood-sparks-identity-crisis-for-fraternal-group-of-farmers\">who've jumped\u003c/a> on the local food movement. There are still young people out there who want to get involved with more conventional forms of agriculture, but many of them still find their options limited.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's no way I'll ever be able to own my own ranch,\" says Bo Bigler, 25, a graduate student at Colorado State University. He'll graduate in August with a master's degree in beef management, which almost ensures a career working at large feedlots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The price to buy into it, it's too much; the cost of land is unreal,\" Bigler says. \"The only way that somebody can get into it is if a ranch was handed down to them, unless they're millionaires to begin with.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ranch and farmland, not just in Colorado, but across the plains, is going for several thousand dollars per acre, keeping aspiring farmers from buying. Leased land is available, but it leaves farmers at the whim of a landlord who could choose to cancel or refuse to renew a lease agreement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's no way they can pay the student loan and pay a land payment and still have enough money left over to live on,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://ansci.agsci.colostate.edu/peel-kraig/\">Kraig Peel\u003c/a>, a professor of animal sciences at Colorado State University.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of Peel's students come into his classes with idealistic ideas about farming and ranching. These days about 80 percent of his students have grown up in an urban setting. They quickly learn to realign their expectations, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's very frustrating for a lot of these students that would like to [run a farm or ranch],\" Peel says. \"Economically it just doesn't make sense.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, there's a need to bring in young people to large and small ranching operations. Sixty-four percent of the nation's cattle ranches are owned by someone older than 55. But many of Peel's students have chosen to forgo the financial difficulties of running a ranch and work for large agribusiness companies instead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Teague is working on a multiyear business plan to make sure she can add on a few acres of vegetables and some more pigs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think a lot of young people want to work outside in sort of a 'farm camp' fun experience,\" she says. \"There are fewer people who would like to work really hard, like 50 to 60 hours a week for not a lot of money, which is what working on a farm is.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Teague filled out a form for the latest agricultural census last year. When data is released in 2014, it'll become clearer whether enough young people have joined the ranks to keep the average age of farmers from climbing even higher.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Luke Runyon \u003cem>reports from Colorado\u003c/em> \u003cem>for \u003c/em>KUNC \u003cem>and\u003c/em> \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.harvestpublicmedia.org/\">Harvest Public Media\u003c/a>\u003cem>, \u003cem>a public radio reporting collaboration that focuses on agriculture and food production issues\u003c/em>.\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://harvestpublicmedia.org/article/young-dreams-huge-obstacles\">A version\u003c/a> \u003cem> of this post\u003c/em> \u003cem>appeared earlier on the Harvest Public Media website as part of the series \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://harvestpublicmedia.org/changinglands\">Changing Lands Changing Hands\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.kunc.org\">KUNC-FM\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Young farmers want to get involved with both the local food movement and more conventional forms of agriculture. But many of them are finding their options limited. Ranch and farmland across the plains is going for several thousand dollars an acre, keeping many aspiring farmers out of the market.",
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"description": "Young farmers want to get involved with both the local food movement and more conventional forms of agriculture. But many of them are finding their options limited. Ranch and farmland across the plains is going for several thousand dollars an acre, keeping many aspiring farmers out of the market.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68691\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/farmers-full.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/farmers-full.jpg\" alt=\"Eva Teague, 31, is trying to start her own pig farm in Colorado but is running into financial obstacles typical of many young farmers trying to break into the business. Photo: Luke Runyon/KUNC/Harvest Public Media\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68691\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eva Teague, 31, is trying to start her own pig farm in Colorado but is running into financial obstacles typical of many young farmers trying to break into the business. Photo: Luke Runyon/KUNC/Harvest Public Media\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/21/213905983/young-farmers-break-the-bank-before-they-get-to-the-field\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/21/213905983/young-farmers-break-the-bank-before-they-get-to-the-field\">Luke Runyon\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/21/213905983/young-farmers-break-the-bank-before-they-get-to-the-field\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/21/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the average age of the American farmer has crept up to 60, fewer young people are filling in the ranks behind them. That's prompted some to ask if young people even want to farm anymore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The quick answer is yes, just not in the same numbers as they used to. And surveys indicate many of them don't want to farm in conventional ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A 2011 \u003ca href=\"http://www.youngfarmers.org/newsroom/building-a-future-with-farmers-october-2011/\">survey\u003c/a> from the National Young Farmers Coalition showed access to land and capital to be the single biggest factors keeping young people from getting into farming or ranching. The survey also indicated young people are concerned about the environment — they're \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2011/12/12/143459793/who-are-the-young-farmers-of-generation-organic\">generation organic\u003c/a>\" — and interested in small-scale operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it can be difficult to turn dreams of a farm life into reality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Longmont, Colo., Eva Teague, 31, has learned how difficult it can be to start a pig farm. Teague is a grad school dropout turned farmer, originally from the East Coast. Jaded with academia, she moved to Colorado and began working as a farm apprentice. She bought her first pigs a couple years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[I] didn't have that much cash, so I paid for feed with the credit card just to get going,\" Teague says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Right now, her biggest challenge, like many other young farmers, is \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2011/11/14/142305869/newbie-farmers-find-that-dirt-isnt-cheap\">access to capital\u003c/a>. She recently secured a low-interest loan from the federal Farm Service Agency, but it's not enough to get her business off the ground completely. Teague still spends her days on the farm and every evening working full-time as a waitress. Next year she plans to take a big leap: She wants to quit her off-farm job and rely solely on her farm income to sustain herself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After searching for plots of land on Craigslist, Teague lucked out and scored a lease for 15 acres at the base of the Rocky Mountains. She taught herself Quickbooks accounting software, and she relies heavily on the skills she picked up during a handful of apprenticeships throughout Colorado. In short, Teague is part of the millennial generation of farmers, a group that often eschews traditional forms of agriculture and favors small-scale operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a very rare person who's not grown up on a farm that's going to go out and say, 'I want to plant 100,000 acres of corn. I want to invest $300,000 in a tractor. I want to get a confinement hog barn with 300,000 pigs,' \" Teague says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, the millennial generation isn't exclusively made up of farmers \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/14/188647380/new-blood-sparks-identity-crisis-for-fraternal-group-of-farmers\">who've jumped\u003c/a> on the local food movement. There are still young people out there who want to get involved with more conventional forms of agriculture, but many of them still find their options limited.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's no way I'll ever be able to own my own ranch,\" says Bo Bigler, 25, a graduate student at Colorado State University. He'll graduate in August with a master's degree in beef management, which almost ensures a career working at large feedlots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The price to buy into it, it's too much; the cost of land is unreal,\" Bigler says. \"The only way that somebody can get into it is if a ranch was handed down to them, unless they're millionaires to begin with.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ranch and farmland, not just in Colorado, but across the plains, is going for several thousand dollars per acre, keeping aspiring farmers from buying. Leased land is available, but it leaves farmers at the whim of a landlord who could choose to cancel or refuse to renew a lease agreement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's no way they can pay the student loan and pay a land payment and still have enough money left over to live on,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://ansci.agsci.colostate.edu/peel-kraig/\">Kraig Peel\u003c/a>, a professor of animal sciences at Colorado State University.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of Peel's students come into his classes with idealistic ideas about farming and ranching. These days about 80 percent of his students have grown up in an urban setting. They quickly learn to realign their expectations, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's very frustrating for a lot of these students that would like to [run a farm or ranch],\" Peel says. \"Economically it just doesn't make sense.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, there's a need to bring in young people to large and small ranching operations. Sixty-four percent of the nation's cattle ranches are owned by someone older than 55. But many of Peel's students have chosen to forgo the financial difficulties of running a ranch and work for large agribusiness companies instead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Teague is working on a multiyear business plan to make sure she can add on a few acres of vegetables and some more pigs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think a lot of young people want to work outside in sort of a 'farm camp' fun experience,\" she says. \"There are fewer people who would like to work really hard, like 50 to 60 hours a week for not a lot of money, which is what working on a farm is.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Teague filled out a form for the latest agricultural census last year. When data is released in 2014, it'll become clearer whether enough young people have joined the ranks to keep the average age of farmers from climbing even higher.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Luke Runyon \u003cem>reports from Colorado\u003c/em> \u003cem>for \u003c/em>KUNC \u003cem>and\u003c/em> \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.harvestpublicmedia.org/\">Harvest Public Media\u003c/a>\u003cem>, \u003cem>a public radio reporting collaboration that focuses on agriculture and food production issues\u003c/em>.\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://harvestpublicmedia.org/article/young-dreams-huge-obstacles\">A version\u003c/a> \u003cem> of this post\u003c/em> \u003cem>appeared earlier on the Harvest Public Media website as part of the series \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://harvestpublicmedia.org/changinglands\">Changing Lands Changing Hands\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.kunc.org\">KUNC-FM\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Inside the Beef Industry's Battle Over Growth-Promotion Drugs",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68683\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/cattle-full.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/cattle-full.jpg\" alt=\"Beef cattle stand in a barn on the Larson Farms feedlot in Maple Park, Ill. Photo: Daniel Acker/Landov\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68683\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beef cattle stand in a barn on the Larson Farms feedlot in Maple Park, Ill. Photo: Daniel Acker/Landov\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/21/214202886/inside-the-beef-industrys-battle-over-growth-promotion-drugs\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/08/20130821_atc_04.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/21/214202886/inside-the-beef-industrys-battle-over-growth-promotion-drugs\">The Salt on NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/21/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the drug company Merck Animal Health \u003ca href=\"http://www.merck-animal-health-usa.com/news/2013-8-16.aspx\">announced\u003c/a> plans to suspend sales of its Zilmax feed additive last week, many observers were shocked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet concern about Zilmax and the class of growth-promotion drugs called beta agonists has been building for some time. In an interesting twist, the decisive pressure on Zilmax did not come from animal welfare groups or government regulators: It emerged from within the beef industry itself, and from academic experts who have long worked as consultants to the industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among them is \u003ca href=\"http://www.grandin.com/\">Temple Grandin\u003c/a>, a professor of animal science at Colorado State University and a world-renowned expert on how cattle react to their environments. Grandin, whose life is the subject of an \u003ca href=\"http://www.hbo.com/movies/temple-grandin/index.html\">HBO biopic\u003c/a>, has redesigned slaughterhouses to make them more humane.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Around the summer of 2006, she says, she started seeing a new kind of problem among the cattle, especially when the weather got really hot. \"You had animals that were stiff and sore-footed, animals that were reluctant to move,\" she recalls. \"They act like the floor is red-hot. They don't want to put their feet down. And I had never seen these kinds of symptoms before, ever!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The problems, she says, affect as many as 1 out of every 5 animals. She's become increasingly convinced that the problems result from the drugs called beta agonists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beta agonists are similar, chemically, to the adrenaline that our bodies produce. In humans, this class of drugs is used to treat asthma. When fed to cattle or pigs, though, the animals grow more muscle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"These beta agonist drugs have a dramatic and profound and beneficial impact on production,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.depts.ttu.edu/afs/people/Faculty_Loneragan.php\">Guy Loneragan\u003c/a>, a professor of food safety and public health at Texas Tech University in Lubbock. \"They can add somewhere in the range of 15 to 30 pounds of beef to a carcass in the last three to four weeks of the fattening period.\" That makes a significant difference to a beef producer's bottom line, and as a result, these drugs are widely used.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet Loneragan, too, has come to believe that these profitable drugs may be causing problems.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two weeks ago, at a meeting held by the National Cattlemen's Beef Association, he presented data showing that feedlot cattle consuming beta agonists died more often. At that same meeting, Grandin gave a talk about her observations of cattle that seemed reluctant to move. And an animal welfare expert from a big meat packer, JBS, showed a \u003ca href=\"http://www.reuters.com/article/2013/08/13/us-usa-cattle-jbs-drugs-idUSBRE97C02M20130813\">video\u003c/a> of cattle that appeared lethargic, unable to walk properly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grandin says that video made people angry. \"You've got a lot of people in the cattle industry who care about cattle, and they don't like to see cattle that are lame,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As that conference was ending, another big meat packer, Tyson Foods, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/09/did-tyson-ban-doping-cows-with-zilmax-to-boost-foreign-sales/\" title=\"Did Tyson Ban Doping Cows with Zilmax to Boost Foreign Sales?\">announced \u003c/a>that it would stop buying cattle that had been fed one particular beta agonist: Zilmax. Zilmax, or zilpaterol, is considered the most powerful beta agonist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Loneragan later had a chance to go through information that the company had collected on the effects of beta agonists. \"As they pieced together their information — and as I had the opportunity to review their information — they felt that they had to act, and I felt that they made the right decision,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Merck Animal Health, which makes Zilmax, initially defended its product, but decided last week to suspend sales of the drug. The company says that it remains convinced that Zilmax is safe for animals, and it expects to answer all the questions that people now have. Meanwhile, feedlot operators still can use another beta agonist, which is sold by the company Elanco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Food and Drug Administration, which approved these drugs, remains a bystander for now. In an email, an FDA representative said only that the agency \"has received a very small number of reports\" of problems with these drugs and that the \"FDA will review any new information to determine if there is a safety issue.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grandin, for her part, is not pushing for a ban on beta agonists. She thinks it may be possible to use these drugs in ways that avoid causing harm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Maybe you just don't do it in the summer, when it's hot,\" she says. \"The doses are probably going to have to be cut back. But these problems have got to stop. I've laid awake at night about it. I've worked all my career to improve how animals are handled, and these animals are just suffering. It has to stop!\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/21/214202886/inside-the-beef-industrys-battle-over-growth-promotion-drugs\">The Salt on NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/21/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the drug company Merck Animal Health \u003ca href=\"http://www.merck-animal-health-usa.com/news/2013-8-16.aspx\">announced\u003c/a> plans to suspend sales of its Zilmax feed additive last week, many observers were shocked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet concern about Zilmax and the class of growth-promotion drugs called beta agonists has been building for some time. In an interesting twist, the decisive pressure on Zilmax did not come from animal welfare groups or government regulators: It emerged from within the beef industry itself, and from academic experts who have long worked as consultants to the industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among them is \u003ca href=\"http://www.grandin.com/\">Temple Grandin\u003c/a>, a professor of animal science at Colorado State University and a world-renowned expert on how cattle react to their environments. Grandin, whose life is the subject of an \u003ca href=\"http://www.hbo.com/movies/temple-grandin/index.html\">HBO biopic\u003c/a>, has redesigned slaughterhouses to make them more humane.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Around the summer of 2006, she says, she started seeing a new kind of problem among the cattle, especially when the weather got really hot. \"You had animals that were stiff and sore-footed, animals that were reluctant to move,\" she recalls. \"They act like the floor is red-hot. They don't want to put their feet down. And I had never seen these kinds of symptoms before, ever!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The problems, she says, affect as many as 1 out of every 5 animals. She's become increasingly convinced that the problems result from the drugs called beta agonists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beta agonists are similar, chemically, to the adrenaline that our bodies produce. In humans, this class of drugs is used to treat asthma. When fed to cattle or pigs, though, the animals grow more muscle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"These beta agonist drugs have a dramatic and profound and beneficial impact on production,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.depts.ttu.edu/afs/people/Faculty_Loneragan.php\">Guy Loneragan\u003c/a>, a professor of food safety and public health at Texas Tech University in Lubbock. \"They can add somewhere in the range of 15 to 30 pounds of beef to a carcass in the last three to four weeks of the fattening period.\" That makes a significant difference to a beef producer's bottom line, and as a result, these drugs are widely used.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet Loneragan, too, has come to believe that these profitable drugs may be causing problems.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two weeks ago, at a meeting held by the National Cattlemen's Beef Association, he presented data showing that feedlot cattle consuming beta agonists died more often. At that same meeting, Grandin gave a talk about her observations of cattle that seemed reluctant to move. And an animal welfare expert from a big meat packer, JBS, showed a \u003ca href=\"http://www.reuters.com/article/2013/08/13/us-usa-cattle-jbs-drugs-idUSBRE97C02M20130813\">video\u003c/a> of cattle that appeared lethargic, unable to walk properly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grandin says that video made people angry. \"You've got a lot of people in the cattle industry who care about cattle, and they don't like to see cattle that are lame,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As that conference was ending, another big meat packer, Tyson Foods, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/09/did-tyson-ban-doping-cows-with-zilmax-to-boost-foreign-sales/\" title=\"Did Tyson Ban Doping Cows with Zilmax to Boost Foreign Sales?\">announced \u003c/a>that it would stop buying cattle that had been fed one particular beta agonist: Zilmax. Zilmax, or zilpaterol, is considered the most powerful beta agonist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Loneragan later had a chance to go through information that the company had collected on the effects of beta agonists. \"As they pieced together their information — and as I had the opportunity to review their information — they felt that they had to act, and I felt that they made the right decision,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Merck Animal Health, which makes Zilmax, initially defended its product, but decided last week to suspend sales of the drug. The company says that it remains convinced that Zilmax is safe for animals, and it expects to answer all the questions that people now have. Meanwhile, feedlot operators still can use another beta agonist, which is sold by the company Elanco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Food and Drug Administration, which approved these drugs, remains a bystander for now. In an email, an FDA representative said only that the agency \"has received a very small number of reports\" of problems with these drugs and that the \"FDA will review any new information to determine if there is a safety issue.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grandin, for her part, is not pushing for a ban on beta agonists. She thinks it may be possible to use these drugs in ways that avoid causing harm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Maybe you just don't do it in the summer, when it's hot,\" she says. \"The doses are probably going to have to be cut back. But these problems have got to stop. I've laid awake at night about it. I've worked all my career to improve how animals are handled, and these animals are just suffering. It has to stop!\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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