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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This week marks the five day festival of Diwali with Sunday, the third day, being the most brightly celebrated of them all. Diwali, often described as the festival of lights, holds an array of origin stories and customs amongst the different religions and regions that observe it across India, Nepal, Sri Lanka and beyond. \u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='perspectives_201311200735,news_10765751' label='More on Diwali']\u003cbr>\n\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“In India, it’s much more diverse regionally. It is a festival that Hindus, Sikhs, Jains celebrate but differently,” explained Barnali Ghosh, a landscape architect by trade and activist who co-leads \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleysouthasian.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">South Asian Radical History Walking Tour\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Berkeley. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ghosh, who is originally from West Bengal, grew up in a Hindu household in the south Indian cosmopolitan Bangalore, or Bengaluru. “[One] of the beautiful things about the apartment building we lived in, which was like a hundred apartments, was for every festival people would send their regional specialties to the other person's house,” she remembers fondly. “You're always waiting like ‘What are we going to get for Diwali?’ Because Diwali, as a Bengali family, was not the most important festival for us.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Reetu Mody, a lawyer and community organizer who grew up in Concord, Diwali was one of a series of autumnal fêtes kicked off by Navratri, another festival celebrated in a multitude of ways. “I think because of the loss of translation and [because] my mom is Jain and my dad is Hindu, I just knew it more as a celebration around joy, and lights and happiness,” she shares with me. “Only as an adult have I gotten to know the Hindu story around Diwali and that actually led me to critique it a lot more.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mody’s critique is taking shape as a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/east-bay-poc-diwali-celebration-tickets-74325937881\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diwali event\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> she’s organizing along with Sonya Mehta, a fellow community organizer and Parivar, a trans and gender-non-conforming centered South Asian social collective. On November 2nd in Oakland, the group will throw a feast that includes food, dancing and learning to elaborate on and examine the festival’s complicated history. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Diwali in some ways can be very contentious because it has a strong history in caste suppression in Hinduism and also in very patriarchal oppression,” Mody explains. “We wanted to throw a party that captured people's sense of celebration during this time period but that wasn't unthoughtful or uncritical of those traditions that Diwali comes from and how we might want to create new ones.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diwali, its contentious history and its bountiful diversity, play out prominently in food so Mody and the rest of the planning team are carefully considering what their feast might signal to those interested in attending. “Not having meat is something that can be linked with caste oppression so we're having a discussion around it,” Mody tells me. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The topic of vegetarian versus non-vegetarian food around Diwali and other similar holidays that cross regional and religious lines in India is a debate beyond what’s on the plate. “That’s become very political in India right now,” Ghosh tells me. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the last four years, under Prime Minister Narendra Modi, Human Rights Watch estimates that at least \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/10/24/world/asia/india-modi-hindu-violence.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">44 people have been killed\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in India by cow protection groups who are often associated with Hindu fundamentalist views. The victims, many of whom were Muslim, were accused of storing or selling cattle for consumption. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Not all Hindus are vegetarian,” Ghosh explains, “But it’s become this really twisted thing where regional differences are getting sort of wiped out because of the dominance of Hindu fundamentalists, [or] Hindutva culture, which wants to project only one version of Hinduism.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135195\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135195\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/IMG_3286-e1572021861660.jpg\" alt=\"Kali Puja dinner table decor features California fall colors and local flowers including sorrel.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kali Puja dinner table decor features California fall colors and local flowers including sorrel. \u003ccite>(Barnali Ghosh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Like other Bengalis, Ghosh grew up celebrating Kali Puja, a festival which falls on the same day as Diwali. “It feels even more important to preserve the Bengali identity, which is that we eat meat during this festival. It is part of our culture,” she tells me. “It wouldn’t be Kali Puja without goat meat.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As for Mody, she describes the food her family cooked at home as “Gujrati food done Rajisthani style”. It’s a description that renders “Indian food” ineffective in its lack of specificity. For Diwali specifically, Mody remembers eating foods that were considered to bring good fortune. “We had mung beans and they're considered very lucky. You put dried ones in your suitcase. You eat them during celebrations.” she reminisces. “We would have things like puris, small fried flatbreads and we'd have that with mango rus which is this, like, mango milk you eat as a dessert.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sugar might in fact be the unifier across Diwali celebrations. “Celebrating with dessert is probably a thread that ties everything together,” Ghosh says, “If your neighbor was sending you something, it’d be something savory and fried, and sweets.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the diaspora, the tensions borne in homelands can be dulled and imbued with the influence of the politics of their new environments. As Diwali gains popularity as a holiday outside of India, Ghosh and Mody are invested in both examining the holiday’s complexities and keeping the abounding traditions that can get flattened through its mainstreaming.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For her upcoming Diwali feast, Mody is hoping for the right mix of education and celebration through a considered feast: “In the most obvious way, in a way that feels true to all cultures and communities, food is central to how we come together.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diwali, its contentious history and its bountiful diversity, play out prominently in food so Mody and the rest of the planning team are carefully considering what their feast might signal to those interested in attending. “Not having meat is something that can be linked with caste oppression so we're having a discussion around it,” Mody tells me. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The topic of vegetarian versus non-vegetarian food around Diwali and other similar holidays that cross regional and religious lines in India is a debate beyond what’s on the plate. “That’s become very political in India right now,” Ghosh tells me. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the last four years, under Prime Minister Narendra Modi, Human Rights Watch estimates that at least \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/10/24/world/asia/india-modi-hindu-violence.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">44 people have been killed\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in India by cow protection groups who are often associated with Hindu fundamentalist views. The victims, many of whom were Muslim, were accused of storing or selling cattle for consumption. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Not all Hindus are vegetarian,” Ghosh explains, “But it’s become this really twisted thing where regional differences are getting sort of wiped out because of the dominance of Hindu fundamentalists, [or] Hindutva culture, which wants to project only one version of Hinduism.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135195\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135195\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/IMG_3286-e1572021861660.jpg\" alt=\"Kali Puja dinner table decor features California fall colors and local flowers including sorrel.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kali Puja dinner table decor features California fall colors and local flowers including sorrel. \u003ccite>(Barnali Ghosh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Like other Bengalis, Ghosh grew up celebrating Kali Puja, a festival which falls on the same day as Diwali. “It feels even more important to preserve the Bengali identity, which is that we eat meat during this festival. It is part of our culture,” she tells me. “It wouldn’t be Kali Puja without goat meat.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As for Mody, she describes the food her family cooked at home as “Gujrati food done Rajisthani style”. It’s a description that renders “Indian food” ineffective in its lack of specificity. For Diwali specifically, Mody remembers eating foods that were considered to bring good fortune. “We had mung beans and they're considered very lucky. You put dried ones in your suitcase. You eat them during celebrations.” she reminisces. “We would have things like puris, small fried flatbreads and we'd have that with mango rus which is this, like, mango milk you eat as a dessert.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sugar might in fact be the unifier across Diwali celebrations. “Celebrating with dessert is probably a thread that ties everything together,” Ghosh says, “If your neighbor was sending you something, it’d be something savory and fried, and sweets.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the diaspora, the tensions borne in homelands can be dulled and imbued with the influence of the politics of their new environments. As Diwali gains popularity as a holiday outside of India, Ghosh and Mody are invested in both examining the holiday’s complexities and keeping the abounding traditions that can get flattened through its mainstreaming.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For her upcoming Diwali feast, Mody is hoping for the right mix of education and celebration through a considered feast: “In the most obvious way, in a way that feels true to all cultures and communities, food is central to how we come together.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Sonoma County Chefs Respond to Kincade Fire",
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"content": "\u003cp>[aside postID='news_11782314,science_1926793' label='More Wildfire Information on KQED']\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>by Heather Irwin\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If Chef Dustin Valette looks a bit relaxed while making sandwiches for 60, it’s only because he’s lived with a first responder his whole life. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Healdsburg restaurateur snapped into action early this morning, coordinating food relief efforts for evacuees before 10 a.m. — just about the time his dad, Bob Valette, was “wheels up” on a tanker jet headed out of Sonoma County airport to fight the Kincade Fire that is still uncontained near Geyserville.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135110\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Dustin Valette of Valette Restaurant in Healdsburg delivering food to the Healdsburg Community Center.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135110\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745-800x582.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745-768x559.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745-1020x742.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Dustin Valette of Valette Restaurant in Healdsburg delivering food to the Healdsburg Community Center. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though this fire pales in comparison to the Tubbs and Camp Fires — at least at this point — it’s a scary reminder of our new reality. With power out to thousands, news came in the middle of the night that a fire had sparked in northern Sonoma County. At this moment, \u003ca href=\"https://www.pressdemocrat.com/news/10215186-181/kincade-fire-forces-evacuation-of\">it is an estimated 10,000 acres\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Valette is working with Chef Kyle Connaughton of Single Thread (which will be closed tonight, Oct, 24), \u003ca href=\"http://www.mycatellis.com/\">Catelli’s Domenica Catelli\u003c/a> (also closed tonight), and helpers from the community (Costeaux provided the bread) to feed the approximately 60 people at the Healdsburg Community Center taking refuge from the fires. They plan to serve about 200 tonight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135111\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650.jpg\" alt=\"Dani Wilcox helps to prepare food at Valette.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1650\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135111\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-160x220.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-800x1100.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-768x1056.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-1020x1403.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-873x1200.jpg 873w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dani Wilcox helps to prepare food at Valette. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As he packed up his car with sandwiches–made with long loaves of fresh French bread, heirloom tomatoes from his own garden, meat and cheese from his restaurant kitchen — he realized the irony of such fancy sandwiches in an emergency. But that’s what he does, and that’s what he knows. And food, after all, is love. And a good sandwich takes just as long to make as a bad one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s still unknown what will happen in the coming days…but restaurateurs are ready. The local food community, including Valette and many others, offered thousands of man hours, kitchens, food, and support activated during the 2017 fires.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135114\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873.jpg\" alt=\"Chefs Dustin Valette and Ken Rochioli.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"873\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135114\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873-800x582.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873-768x559.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873-1020x742.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chefs Dustin Valette and Ken Rochioli. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As I’ve learned personally, it’s a fine line between helping and being in the way, and aid organizers are relying on vetted food providers to assist during this time. I went to several agencies and Red Cross stations today, and most are saying that it is “early hours” and they are watching the situation to best inform coordinated responses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the Cal Fire command center at the Jockey Club near the Sonoma County Fairgrounds, their own mobile kitchen is ready to feed first responders. They are currently standing by as the situation progresses. No one was able to speak in an official capacity, but the Cal Fire mobile kitchen was on site in 2017 to feed hundreds of first responders at the Fairgrounds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135112\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Ken Rochioli gets interviewed by a reporter at the Healdsburg Community Center.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"873\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135112\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873-800x582.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873-768x559.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873-1020x742.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Ken Rochioli gets interviewed by a reporter at the Healdsburg Community Center. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Also on standby is a kitted-out mobile kitchen built by Guy Fieri after the Tubbs Fire. The kitchen can serve thousands. The team, which has worked with Jose Andres and World Central Kitchen, and the kitchen can be onsite and ready to feed people within an hour of activation. Currently, the kitchen is on standby as they await instructions from CalFire. Jose Andres tweeted this morning that he was here for Sonoma County if needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://twitter.com/chefjoseandres/status/1187379055693385729\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Valette brought the sandwiches to the community center, surrounded by smoke and crawling with reporters, he smiled as his friend Ken Rochioli of KR Catering pulled up with more trays of food. Rochioli was stopped by reporters for an interview. Valette snuck by, saying that he needed to get back to his restaurant because he had an entirely new menu to prepare at the restaurant this evening. Not to mention helping with dinner for 200 at the shelter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“What else do I have to do?” he grins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sonomafamilymeal.org/\">Sonoma Family Meal\u003c/a> has activated for this emergency and is monitoring the situation to see where we can best help our community during this situation. Heather Irwin is the founder of Sonoma Family Meal.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This article originally appeared in \u003ca href=\"https://www.sonomamag.com/kincade-fire-restaurant-chef-response/\">Sonoma Magazine\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>by Heather Irwin\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If Chef Dustin Valette looks a bit relaxed while making sandwiches for 60, it’s only because he’s lived with a first responder his whole life. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Healdsburg restaurateur snapped into action early this morning, coordinating food relief efforts for evacuees before 10 a.m. — just about the time his dad, Bob Valette, was “wheels up” on a tanker jet headed out of Sonoma County airport to fight the Kincade Fire that is still uncontained near Geyserville.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135110\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Dustin Valette of Valette Restaurant in Healdsburg delivering food to the Healdsburg Community Center.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135110\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745-800x582.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745-768x559.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745-1020x742.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Dustin Valette of Valette Restaurant in Healdsburg delivering food to the Healdsburg Community Center. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though this fire pales in comparison to the Tubbs and Camp Fires — at least at this point — it’s a scary reminder of our new reality. With power out to thousands, news came in the middle of the night that a fire had sparked in northern Sonoma County. At this moment, \u003ca href=\"https://www.pressdemocrat.com/news/10215186-181/kincade-fire-forces-evacuation-of\">it is an estimated 10,000 acres\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Valette is working with Chef Kyle Connaughton of Single Thread (which will be closed tonight, Oct, 24), \u003ca href=\"http://www.mycatellis.com/\">Catelli’s Domenica Catelli\u003c/a> (also closed tonight), and helpers from the community (Costeaux provided the bread) to feed the approximately 60 people at the Healdsburg Community Center taking refuge from the fires. They plan to serve about 200 tonight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135111\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650.jpg\" alt=\"Dani Wilcox helps to prepare food at Valette.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1650\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135111\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-160x220.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-800x1100.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-768x1056.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-1020x1403.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-873x1200.jpg 873w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dani Wilcox helps to prepare food at Valette. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As he packed up his car with sandwiches–made with long loaves of fresh French bread, heirloom tomatoes from his own garden, meat and cheese from his restaurant kitchen — he realized the irony of such fancy sandwiches in an emergency. But that’s what he does, and that’s what he knows. And food, after all, is love. And a good sandwich takes just as long to make as a bad one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s still unknown what will happen in the coming days…but restaurateurs are ready. The local food community, including Valette and many others, offered thousands of man hours, kitchens, food, and support activated during the 2017 fires.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135114\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873.jpg\" alt=\"Chefs Dustin Valette and Ken Rochioli.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"873\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135114\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873-800x582.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873-768x559.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873-1020x742.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chefs Dustin Valette and Ken Rochioli. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As I’ve learned personally, it’s a fine line between helping and being in the way, and aid organizers are relying on vetted food providers to assist during this time. I went to several agencies and Red Cross stations today, and most are saying that it is “early hours” and they are watching the situation to best inform coordinated responses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the Cal Fire command center at the Jockey Club near the Sonoma County Fairgrounds, their own mobile kitchen is ready to feed first responders. They are currently standing by as the situation progresses. No one was able to speak in an official capacity, but the Cal Fire mobile kitchen was on site in 2017 to feed hundreds of first responders at the Fairgrounds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135112\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Ken Rochioli gets interviewed by a reporter at the Healdsburg Community Center.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"873\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135112\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873-800x582.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873-768x559.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873-1020x742.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Ken Rochioli gets interviewed by a reporter at the Healdsburg Community Center. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Also on standby is a kitted-out mobile kitchen built by Guy Fieri after the Tubbs Fire. The kitchen can serve thousands. The team, which has worked with Jose Andres and World Central Kitchen, and the kitchen can be onsite and ready to feed people within an hour of activation. Currently, the kitchen is on standby as they await instructions from CalFire. Jose Andres tweeted this morning that he was here for Sonoma County if needed.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\n\u003cp>As Valette brought the sandwiches to the community center, surrounded by smoke and crawling with reporters, he smiled as his friend Ken Rochioli of KR Catering pulled up with more trays of food. Rochioli was stopped by reporters for an interview. Valette snuck by, saying that he needed to get back to his restaurant because he had an entirely new menu to prepare at the restaurant this evening. Not to mention helping with dinner for 200 at the shelter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“What else do I have to do?” he grins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sonomafamilymeal.org/\">Sonoma Family Meal\u003c/a> has activated for this emergency and is monitoring the situation to see where we can best help our community during this situation. Heather Irwin is the founder of Sonoma Family Meal.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This article originally appeared in \u003ca href=\"https://www.sonomamag.com/kincade-fire-restaurant-chef-response/\">Sonoma Magazine\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>[aside tag='pizza' label='Bay Area Pizza Spots' target=_]\u003cbr>\nWhen Laura Meyer won the World Pizza Championship for pan pizza in Parma, Italy, the Italian judges called her the male word for champion. Despite her first-place victory, she was the only winner who didn't get a trophy that day. Hers was mailed a year later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They basically refused to acknowledge that a woman had won,\" she said, recently recalling the snub. She was the first woman to win — and the first American. That was 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next year, competing as the only woman, she won best non-traditional pizza at the International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas with a triple-infused rosemary dough (rosemary water, rosemary-infused olive oil, and chopped rosemary). And last month, Meyer's simple pepperoni pizza won the first-ever \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/07/04/738791486/a-look-at-the-history-of-pizza-in-america\">American pizza\u003c/a> division of the Caputo Cup, a pizza-making contest in Naples, Italy, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2017/12/07/569141920/cant-be-topped-neapolitan-style-pizza-making-wins-unesco-heritage-status\">birthplace\u003c/a> of modern pizza, and placed third for traditional pizza at a September contest in Atlantic City, N.J.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Meyer is a pizza powerhouse, any way you slice it. But to many in and out of her profession, she's just a woman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\"Women have always been part of pizza, but it's very macho. It has a macho problem, like most of \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/615851215/battle-tactics-for-your-sexist-workplace\">the job world\u003c/a>,\" she said from \u003ca href=\"https://hoodline.com/2019/08/as-tony-s-pizza-napoletana-turns-10-owner-reflects-on-changing-north-beach\">Tony's\u003c/a>, the prestigious pizza parlor in San Francisco where she is owner Tony Gemignani's right hand and runs its International School of Pizza. \"Guys stare at my chest. They think I don't see. Guess what? I see. My very first day of work, a coworker just watched me do my job like I was a show, entertainment, an ooh-la-la toy. So many people think I could only be as high up as I am because I'm Tony's wife. I'm not his wife. I'm his talent.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Broadly and frequently, male chauvinism is baked into pizza at every step: from the presumption that pizza delivery people are men to the dearth of female \u003ca href=\"https://www.pinterest.com/pin/195695546280848571/\">pizza-maker statues\u003c/a>. \"Pizza making is a profession where men tell you that you belong in a kitchen, but not as a career,\" said Meyer. \"They celebrate \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/restaurants-travel/article/find-grandma-pie\">grandma slices\u003c/a> but not the actual grandmas.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She is trying to change that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meyer is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2016/6/28/12033514/laura-meyer-tonys-pizza-sf\">star\u003c/a> in a recent surge of prominent female \u003cem>pizzaiole\u003c/em> across the country: \u003ca href=\"https://www.saveur.com/unique-pizza-ideas/\">Sarah Minnick\u003c/a> at Lovely's Fifty-Fifty in Portland, Ore.; septuagenarian \u003ca href=\"https://lancasteronline.com/features/food/norma-knepp-makes-the-country-s-best-new-york-style/article_fe343cd4-e1db-11e8-bbc9-0f226880d2fc.html\">Norma Knepp\u003c/a> in Pennsylvania Amish Country; \u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2011/10/nancy-silvertons-pizza-dough-recipe.html\">Nancy Silverton\u003c/a> at Osteria Mozza in Los Angeles; \u003ca href=\"https://www.5280.com/2016/04/boulder-eats-audrey-janes-pizza-garage/\">Audrey Kelly\u003c/a> of Audrey Jane's Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colo.; and this year's \u003ca href=\"https://twincities.eater.com/2019/5/6/18534798/ann-kim-james-beard-awards-2019-best-chef-midwest\">best chef\u003c/a> in the Midwest, according to the James Beard Foundation: \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/10/dining/ann-kim-chef-minneapolis.html\">Ann Kim\u003c/a>, a pizza maker in Minneapolis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In New York, where a pizza slice is quintessential to local identity, \u003ca href=\"https://blog.scottspizzatours.com/post/172104072849/nicole-russell-of-last-dragon-pizza-in-rockaway\">Nicole Russell\u003c/a> serves pickup-only Last Dragon Pizza out of her home in Queens. At the \u003ca href=\"https://nycpizzafestival.com/\">New York Pizza Festival\u003c/a> this month, which included pizza makers from Naples and across the U.S., spectators recorded Russell making her tandoori chicken pizza — unofficially the best in show, lifted by a lingering seduction of spices including ginger and mustard oil. One stranger nudged another with a tourist's stage whisper: \"She made that! I just saw her do it!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, Russell shrugged. \"As a black woman, I'm used to people underestimating me,\" she said. \"But I have a proven customer base and a following. I've had tourists from Texas who came to New York with my pizza on their bucket list. We're not just those women over there. Women aren't just coming up in the pizza game. We're winning up in the pizza game.\"\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_134173,bayareabites_129667' align='left' label='More Pizza News' target=_]\u003cbr>\nWith pizza makers finally and firmly having \u003ca href=\"https://www.pizzatoday.com/departments/features/fast-casual-pizza-boom/\">wrestled\u003c/a> the national consciousness about pizza away from cheap mega-chains like Domino's, Little Caesars, Papa John's and Pizza Hut, their pies have been released into a \u003ca href=\"https://www.1843magazine.com/food/the-neapolitan-renaissance\">renaissance\u003c/a> of artisanal styles — \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/entertaining-style/trends-news/article/bar-pizza\">bar\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/06/17/732726329/naples-rolls-out-a-fine-tuned-dough-and-the-new-cloud-pizza-is-born\">cloud\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/2017/02/how-to-make-detroit-style-pizza.html\">Detroit\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2018/5/9/17315154/best-new-pizza-rome\">Roman\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://pizzaneed.com/sicilian-pizza/\">Sicilian\u003c/a> — and \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2019/8/26/20833096/deep-fried-bbq-quesadilla-pizza-pizzadilla-viral-video\">unorthodox\u003c/a> cultural mashups, including \u003ca href=\"https://www.saveur.com/buenos-aires-pizza-guide/\">Argentine\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://explorepartsunknown.com/korea/korean-pizza/\">Korean\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2017/2/21/14670944/best-pizza-tokyo-guide\">Japanese\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.ladbible.com/news/food-swedish-people-put-some-seriously-weird-st-on-their-pizza-20181111\">Swedish\u003c/a>. That openness has created a welcoming culture. Yet pizza's association with fast food still impugns it among foodie snobs, to the point that no pizzeria in the United States — or on the planet — has a Michelin star, even though the prize has been given to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.greatbigstory.com/amp/a-michelin-star-meal-for-1-50\">$1.50 noodle stall\u003c/a> in Singapore, a \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/en/hong-kong-region/hong-kong/restaurant/tim-ho-wan-sham-shui-po\">cheap dim sum chain\u003c/a> in Hong Kong, and a crab omelet \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/06/26/732529154/meet-the-74-year-old-queen-of-bangkok-street-food-who-netted-a-michelin-star\">street food shop\u003c/a> in Bangkok.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The off-radar nature of pizza makers has given them stealth potency — if not for \u003ca href=\"https://www.businessinsider.com/zume-pizza-robot-expansion-2017-6\">seismic change\u003c/a>, then at least for visibility. It sounds, well, cheesy, but in Naples the menu at Sorbillo's, arguably the standard bearer of Neapolitan pizza, now offers a special pie — pink ricotta (blended with tomato), mozzarella fior di latte, extra virgin olive oil and fresh basil — in \u003ca href=\"http://www.napolitoday.it/blog/l_oro-di-napoli/barbie-pizzaiola-pizzeria-sorbillo.html\">partnership with Barbie\u003c/a>, which last year debuted a pizza-making doll. (Gino Sorbillo's young daughter, Ludovica, is an aspiring pizza maker.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Women can make progress in pizza that is harder in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/culture/annals-of-gastronomy/a-harvey-weinstein-moment-for-the-restaurant-industry\">macho restaurant world\u003c/a>,\" said Kim, the Minneapolis pizza maker. \"I love that because that world can be limiting. It has finite goals of money and awards. I prefer the infinite reach of intention and purpose. The most-popular item on my menu is a Korean barbecue pizza that, for some people, is their first taste of Korean food. It's all the things we say we want food to be.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pizza-making also doesn't have fine dining's militaristic brigade setup — chef du cuisine, sous chef, saucier, pâtissier, etc. — or its penchant for \u003ca href=\"https://www.foodandwine.com/chefs/communal-table-restaurant-bullying\">bullying\u003c/a> (and \u003ca href=\"https://www.thecut.com/2017/12/mario-batali-spotted-pig-rape-room.html\">worse\u003c/a>); it's far more collaborative and flexible, casual and supportive even at its upper echelons. Though its ethos is often \u003ca href=\"http://www.grubstreet.com/2015/12/pizza-hut-sexist-swag.html\">far from feminist\u003c/a>, pizza making can be a very feminine craft in the way that it doesn't cling to the rules of a male-dominated kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Kelly opened her Colorado pizzeria in 2015, after earning a degree from Le Cordon Bleu, her father urged her to include her name in the title. He and her mother have run a local chain of bagel shops for decades, but they're widely seen as \"his.\" He wanted better for his daughter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first, Kelly's kitchen was all men (and her). Now it's 50-50, and some days is all women. \"I think of gender equality as craft, as rewarding balance,\" she said. \"We've had men who haven't worked out because they don't want to listen to a woman, which I know because they'd listen if my husband told them the same thing I did.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now some of these women are banding together — including Kelly, Meyer, and Russell — to make Women In Pizza a movement like \u003ca href=\"https://www.wbur.org/onpoint/2019/02/04/girls-who-code-reshma-saujani-brave-not-perfect\">Girls Who Code\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.whitecoatsblackdoctors.org/\">White Coats Black Doctors\u003c/a>. A formal alliance debuted in September: \u003ca href=\"http://www.womeninpizza.com/\">www.womeninpizza.com\u003c/a>. And this year the \u003ca href=\"https://www.worldpizzachampions.com/\">World Pizza Champions\u003c/a>, a kind of industry Justice League, increased its female members from 3 to 5 (out of 39 active members).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Is it lame to say I do it just because it's fun?\" said Tara Hattan, who said she is the only female pizza maker in her town of Broken Arrow, Okla. \"Girls come just to see me do my \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/cbC8ZUo975I\">pizza acrobatics\u003c/a>. I get to be the inspiration or role model or just example I wish I had when I was younger. That's why I bring my \u003ca href=\"http://www.prodoughusa.com/\">ProDough\u003c/a> everywhere, out to bars or parties. I want everyone to know women can do this, because they've seen so with their own eyes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Women in pizza still have frustrations, of course, but flagrant sexism is abating. \"Ugh,\" Meyer groaned in Naples last month, readjusting her trophy for a moment as an Italian television crew scampered over to interview her about her victory. \"I'm going to have to wear my hair down.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://charmandrigor.com/\">\u003cem>Richard Morgan\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a freelance writer in New York, is the author of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Bedlam-Kindle-Single-Richard-Morgan-ebook/dp/B00WH0F2QS\">\u003cem>Born in Bedlam\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a memoir. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/10/22/771037027/in-male-dominated-pizza-circles-women-are-grabbing-a-bigger-slice-of-the-pie\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nWhen Laura Meyer won the World Pizza Championship for pan pizza in Parma, Italy, the Italian judges called her the male word for champion. Despite her first-place victory, she was the only winner who didn't get a trophy that day. Hers was mailed a year later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They basically refused to acknowledge that a woman had won,\" she said, recently recalling the snub. She was the first woman to win — and the first American. That was 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next year, competing as the only woman, she won best non-traditional pizza at the International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas with a triple-infused rosemary dough (rosemary water, rosemary-infused olive oil, and chopped rosemary). And last month, Meyer's simple pepperoni pizza won the first-ever \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/07/04/738791486/a-look-at-the-history-of-pizza-in-america\">American pizza\u003c/a> division of the Caputo Cup, a pizza-making contest in Naples, Italy, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2017/12/07/569141920/cant-be-topped-neapolitan-style-pizza-making-wins-unesco-heritage-status\">birthplace\u003c/a> of modern pizza, and placed third for traditional pizza at a September contest in Atlantic City, N.J.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Meyer is a pizza powerhouse, any way you slice it. But to many in and out of her profession, she's just a woman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\"Women have always been part of pizza, but it's very macho. It has a macho problem, like most of \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/615851215/battle-tactics-for-your-sexist-workplace\">the job world\u003c/a>,\" she said from \u003ca href=\"https://hoodline.com/2019/08/as-tony-s-pizza-napoletana-turns-10-owner-reflects-on-changing-north-beach\">Tony's\u003c/a>, the prestigious pizza parlor in San Francisco where she is owner Tony Gemignani's right hand and runs its International School of Pizza. \"Guys stare at my chest. They think I don't see. Guess what? I see. My very first day of work, a coworker just watched me do my job like I was a show, entertainment, an ooh-la-la toy. So many people think I could only be as high up as I am because I'm Tony's wife. I'm not his wife. I'm his talent.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Broadly and frequently, male chauvinism is baked into pizza at every step: from the presumption that pizza delivery people are men to the dearth of female \u003ca href=\"https://www.pinterest.com/pin/195695546280848571/\">pizza-maker statues\u003c/a>. \"Pizza making is a profession where men tell you that you belong in a kitchen, but not as a career,\" said Meyer. \"They celebrate \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/restaurants-travel/article/find-grandma-pie\">grandma slices\u003c/a> but not the actual grandmas.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She is trying to change that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meyer is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2016/6/28/12033514/laura-meyer-tonys-pizza-sf\">star\u003c/a> in a recent surge of prominent female \u003cem>pizzaiole\u003c/em> across the country: \u003ca href=\"https://www.saveur.com/unique-pizza-ideas/\">Sarah Minnick\u003c/a> at Lovely's Fifty-Fifty in Portland, Ore.; septuagenarian \u003ca href=\"https://lancasteronline.com/features/food/norma-knepp-makes-the-country-s-best-new-york-style/article_fe343cd4-e1db-11e8-bbc9-0f226880d2fc.html\">Norma Knepp\u003c/a> in Pennsylvania Amish Country; \u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2011/10/nancy-silvertons-pizza-dough-recipe.html\">Nancy Silverton\u003c/a> at Osteria Mozza in Los Angeles; \u003ca href=\"https://www.5280.com/2016/04/boulder-eats-audrey-janes-pizza-garage/\">Audrey Kelly\u003c/a> of Audrey Jane's Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colo.; and this year's \u003ca href=\"https://twincities.eater.com/2019/5/6/18534798/ann-kim-james-beard-awards-2019-best-chef-midwest\">best chef\u003c/a> in the Midwest, according to the James Beard Foundation: \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/10/dining/ann-kim-chef-minneapolis.html\">Ann Kim\u003c/a>, a pizza maker in Minneapolis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In New York, where a pizza slice is quintessential to local identity, \u003ca href=\"https://blog.scottspizzatours.com/post/172104072849/nicole-russell-of-last-dragon-pizza-in-rockaway\">Nicole Russell\u003c/a> serves pickup-only Last Dragon Pizza out of her home in Queens. At the \u003ca href=\"https://nycpizzafestival.com/\">New York Pizza Festival\u003c/a> this month, which included pizza makers from Naples and across the U.S., spectators recorded Russell making her tandoori chicken pizza — unofficially the best in show, lifted by a lingering seduction of spices including ginger and mustard oil. One stranger nudged another with a tourist's stage whisper: \"She made that! I just saw her do it!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, Russell shrugged. \"As a black woman, I'm used to people underestimating me,\" she said. \"But I have a proven customer base and a following. I've had tourists from Texas who came to New York with my pizza on their bucket list. We're not just those women over there. Women aren't just coming up in the pizza game. We're winning up in the pizza game.\"\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nWith pizza makers finally and firmly having \u003ca href=\"https://www.pizzatoday.com/departments/features/fast-casual-pizza-boom/\">wrestled\u003c/a> the national consciousness about pizza away from cheap mega-chains like Domino's, Little Caesars, Papa John's and Pizza Hut, their pies have been released into a \u003ca href=\"https://www.1843magazine.com/food/the-neapolitan-renaissance\">renaissance\u003c/a> of artisanal styles — \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/entertaining-style/trends-news/article/bar-pizza\">bar\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/06/17/732726329/naples-rolls-out-a-fine-tuned-dough-and-the-new-cloud-pizza-is-born\">cloud\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/2017/02/how-to-make-detroit-style-pizza.html\">Detroit\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2018/5/9/17315154/best-new-pizza-rome\">Roman\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://pizzaneed.com/sicilian-pizza/\">Sicilian\u003c/a> — and \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2019/8/26/20833096/deep-fried-bbq-quesadilla-pizza-pizzadilla-viral-video\">unorthodox\u003c/a> cultural mashups, including \u003ca href=\"https://www.saveur.com/buenos-aires-pizza-guide/\">Argentine\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://explorepartsunknown.com/korea/korean-pizza/\">Korean\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2017/2/21/14670944/best-pizza-tokyo-guide\">Japanese\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.ladbible.com/news/food-swedish-people-put-some-seriously-weird-st-on-their-pizza-20181111\">Swedish\u003c/a>. That openness has created a welcoming culture. Yet pizza's association with fast food still impugns it among foodie snobs, to the point that no pizzeria in the United States — or on the planet — has a Michelin star, even though the prize has been given to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.greatbigstory.com/amp/a-michelin-star-meal-for-1-50\">$1.50 noodle stall\u003c/a> in Singapore, a \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/en/hong-kong-region/hong-kong/restaurant/tim-ho-wan-sham-shui-po\">cheap dim sum chain\u003c/a> in Hong Kong, and a crab omelet \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/06/26/732529154/meet-the-74-year-old-queen-of-bangkok-street-food-who-netted-a-michelin-star\">street food shop\u003c/a> in Bangkok.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The off-radar nature of pizza makers has given them stealth potency — if not for \u003ca href=\"https://www.businessinsider.com/zume-pizza-robot-expansion-2017-6\">seismic change\u003c/a>, then at least for visibility. It sounds, well, cheesy, but in Naples the menu at Sorbillo's, arguably the standard bearer of Neapolitan pizza, now offers a special pie — pink ricotta (blended with tomato), mozzarella fior di latte, extra virgin olive oil and fresh basil — in \u003ca href=\"http://www.napolitoday.it/blog/l_oro-di-napoli/barbie-pizzaiola-pizzeria-sorbillo.html\">partnership with Barbie\u003c/a>, which last year debuted a pizza-making doll. (Gino Sorbillo's young daughter, Ludovica, is an aspiring pizza maker.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Women can make progress in pizza that is harder in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/culture/annals-of-gastronomy/a-harvey-weinstein-moment-for-the-restaurant-industry\">macho restaurant world\u003c/a>,\" said Kim, the Minneapolis pizza maker. \"I love that because that world can be limiting. It has finite goals of money and awards. I prefer the infinite reach of intention and purpose. The most-popular item on my menu is a Korean barbecue pizza that, for some people, is their first taste of Korean food. It's all the things we say we want food to be.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pizza-making also doesn't have fine dining's militaristic brigade setup — chef du cuisine, sous chef, saucier, pâtissier, etc. — or its penchant for \u003ca href=\"https://www.foodandwine.com/chefs/communal-table-restaurant-bullying\">bullying\u003c/a> (and \u003ca href=\"https://www.thecut.com/2017/12/mario-batali-spotted-pig-rape-room.html\">worse\u003c/a>); it's far more collaborative and flexible, casual and supportive even at its upper echelons. Though its ethos is often \u003ca href=\"http://www.grubstreet.com/2015/12/pizza-hut-sexist-swag.html\">far from feminist\u003c/a>, pizza making can be a very feminine craft in the way that it doesn't cling to the rules of a male-dominated kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Kelly opened her Colorado pizzeria in 2015, after earning a degree from Le Cordon Bleu, her father urged her to include her name in the title. He and her mother have run a local chain of bagel shops for decades, but they're widely seen as \"his.\" He wanted better for his daughter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first, Kelly's kitchen was all men (and her). Now it's 50-50, and some days is all women. \"I think of gender equality as craft, as rewarding balance,\" she said. \"We've had men who haven't worked out because they don't want to listen to a woman, which I know because they'd listen if my husband told them the same thing I did.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now some of these women are banding together — including Kelly, Meyer, and Russell — to make Women In Pizza a movement like \u003ca href=\"https://www.wbur.org/onpoint/2019/02/04/girls-who-code-reshma-saujani-brave-not-perfect\">Girls Who Code\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.whitecoatsblackdoctors.org/\">White Coats Black Doctors\u003c/a>. A formal alliance debuted in September: \u003ca href=\"http://www.womeninpizza.com/\">www.womeninpizza.com\u003c/a>. And this year the \u003ca href=\"https://www.worldpizzachampions.com/\">World Pizza Champions\u003c/a>, a kind of industry Justice League, increased its female members from 3 to 5 (out of 39 active members).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Is it lame to say I do it just because it's fun?\" said Tara Hattan, who said she is the only female pizza maker in her town of Broken Arrow, Okla. \"Girls come just to see me do my \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/cbC8ZUo975I\">pizza acrobatics\u003c/a>. I get to be the inspiration or role model or just example I wish I had when I was younger. That's why I bring my \u003ca href=\"http://www.prodoughusa.com/\">ProDough\u003c/a> everywhere, out to bars or parties. I want everyone to know women can do this, because they've seen so with their own eyes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Women in pizza still have frustrations, of course, but flagrant sexism is abating. \"Ugh,\" Meyer groaned in Naples last month, readjusting her trophy for a moment as an Italian television crew scampered over to interview her about her victory. \"I'm going to have to wear my hair down.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://charmandrigor.com/\">\u003cem>Richard Morgan\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a freelance writer in New York, is the author of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Bedlam-Kindle-Single-Richard-Morgan-ebook/dp/B00WH0F2QS\">\u003cem>Born in Bedlam\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a memoir. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/10/22/771037027/in-male-dominated-pizza-circles-women-are-grabbing-a-bigger-slice-of-the-pie\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Can You Take the Heat in the Bay Area’s Nashville Hot Chicken Movement?",
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"content": "\u003cp>At \u003ca href=\"https://worldfamoushotboys.com/\">World Famous HotBoys\u003c/a>, I once felt the sweat beading on my forehead just from watching someone eat their “hot”-level fried chicken sandwich. To personally consume a “hella hot” sandwich would mean giving the world my best impression of an erupting volcano.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some people just love the burn; I’m not one of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The style of spicy fried chicken HotBoys delivers is directly inspired by Nashville hot chicken. The chicken meat is marinated in a water-blend of seasoning, floured, fried and sauced using a paste spiced with cayenne pepper. “Things like how you spice the chicken vary,” explains HotBoys co-owner Victor Ghaben. “The type of peppers vary but the flavor profile outside the peppers does not.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The family behind Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack, the birthplace of Nashville hot chicken, has converted many diners to their fiery chicken — they even \u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2019/02/04/the-family-business-that-put-nashville-hot-chicken-on-the-map\">inspired Yo La Tengo to write three entire songs about the dish\u003c/a> (“Flying Lesson (Hot Chicken #1),” “Don’t Say a Word (Hot Chicken #2),” and “Return to Hot Chicken”). The annual \u003ca href=\"https://hot-chicken.com/about/what-is-hot-chicken#.XWbE_5NKjFw\">Music City Hot Chicken Festival\u003c/a> started in 2007, celebrating the city’s unique treat. Restaurateurs fell in love with Nashville hot chicken and spread the spicy gospel; the dish (or a variation of it) can be found all over the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In May, the Los Angeles Times ran the story \u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/food/la-fo-nashville-hot-chicken-princes-howlin-rays-20190509-story.html\">“Nashville hot chicken is taking over Los Angeles,”\u003c/a> pointing to over two dozen hot chicken joints opening in just the past three years. Bigger brands like Tyson and KFC have jumped on the bandwagon, offering their own versions of the Nashville hot chicken in restaurants and grocery stores.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Bay Area comes in (s)winging with new hot fried chicken spots\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>HotBoys isn’t the first to bring Nashville hot chicken to the temperate city by the bay, and it’s hard to say who was. \u003ca href=\"https://www.hardwaterbar.com/\">Hard Water\u003c/a>, opened by Charles Phan of Slanted Door, was one of the earlier adopters. According to the restaurant’s spokesperson, “Hard Water opened in March 2013. We put Nashville style chicken on the menu maybe about a year after the opening.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135057\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 999px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/wesburger-chicken-sandwich.jpg\" alt=\"WesBurger 'N' More’s hot chicken sandwich debuted in 2014.\" width=\"999\" height=\"1254\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135057\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/wesburger-chicken-sandwich.jpg 999w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/wesburger-chicken-sandwich-160x201.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/wesburger-chicken-sandwich-800x1004.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/wesburger-chicken-sandwich-768x964.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/wesburger-chicken-sandwich-956x1200.jpg 956w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 999px) 100vw, 999px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">WesBurger 'N' More’s hot chicken sandwich debuted in 2014. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.wesburgernmore.com/\">WesBurger 'N' More\u003c/a>’s owner Wes Rowe dabbled with hot chicken while managing his successful burger pop-ups. “I started making Nashville hot chicken at the pop-up in 2014 and it was a huge hit,” he says. It’s also one of his personal favorite styles of fried chicken. When his brick and mortar in the Mission officially opened in April 2016, hot chicken earned a spot on the menu. “It is the number two best-selling item and the number one best-selling item in delivery orders,” Rowe says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what about The Bird, one of San Francisco’s premiere fried chicken sandwich destinations? Though their spicy fried chicken is similar, it’s not true to the style of Nashville hot chicken. Their gluten-free, berbere-spiced batter is closer to East African hot chicken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2019 we can now say we have two Bay Area businesses completely dedicated to the tried and true Nashville hot chicken: \u003ca href=\"https://www.hotbirdfriedchicken.com/\">Hotbird\u003c/a> and World Famous HotBoys (both originated in Oakland). The former was founded in late 2017 by Aaron Nam and Caleb Longacre, two chefs who met while cooking at Iyasare. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135055\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1109px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/hotbird-Arielle-R.jpg\" alt=\"Two chicken sandwiches from Hotbird.\" width=\"1109\" height=\"1102\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135055\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/hotbird-Arielle-R.jpg 1109w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/hotbird-Arielle-R-160x159.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/hotbird-Arielle-R-800x795.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/hotbird-Arielle-R-768x763.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/hotbird-Arielle-R-1020x1014.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1109px) 100vw, 1109px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Two chicken sandwiches from Hotbird. \u003ccite>(Arielle R./Courtesy of Hotbird)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After Nam tried and fell in love with Los Angeles’ Howlin Rays, the two spent months testing their own hot chicken recipe; Hotbird started out at Oakland’s First Friday art walks before moving on to Off the Grid at Fort Mason and the Presidio Picnic.\u003cbr>\n[pullquote size='medium' align='left' citation='Victor Ghaben, HotBoys co-owner']'The hottest thing we have might end their whole week's plans.'[/pullquote]\u003cbr>\n“I believe most people really enjoy fried chicken and the spicy profile is something they look for,” Nam says. “So it’s almost like a perfect combination there.” Their spice levels run from “no heat” to “hot,” “extra hot” and “burnin’” — they use ghost peppers and Carolina Reaper peppers to achieve those higher levels. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ghaben and HotBoys co-owner Berk Gibbs started with pop-ups out of Ghaben’s backyard in 2017. Their recipes finalized, they revealed World Famous HotBoys to the public around June 2019 with pop-ups at Forage Kitchen while working on their Oakland brick and mortar. Like Hotbird, their spicy chicken has levels: “mild” to “hot” and “hella hot.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>How hot can you go?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>True Nashville hot chicken is supposed to be hot ... like, really hot. Ghaben describes his first time eating it as “an out of body experience.” For people who aren’t prepared for it, he advises sticking to medium-level spice for a first try. “The hottest thing we have,” Ghaben says, “might end their whole week's plans.” WesBurger 'N' More doesn’t offer different levels of spice—theirs is “just spicy.” Meanwhile, Hotbird’s owners describes their hottest level is “pretty spicy, but not spicy enough where you can’t finish half your meal.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B1XzuFpDDQL/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area’s take on the classic hot chicken sandwich leans heavily into all the fixins’. Nashville hot chicken is normally served with slices of white bread and pickles, and Hard Water’s version fills the carb slot with cornbread. However, WesBurger 'N' More, Hotbird and HotBoys all serve theirs as sandwiches — perhaps for portability’s sake. Plus, fried chicken sandwiches do seem to be all people are talking about these days (we’re looking at you, \u003ca href=\"https://www.businessinsider.com/popeyes-chicken-sandwich-rise-and-fall-story-2019-8\">Popeyes\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hotbird’s current sandwich has an apple cider vinegar slaw, comeback sauce (Nam explains that it’s “a Southern staple”), dill pickles and brioche buns. Rowe serves his sandwiches in his trademark burger buns (“they’re basically like white bread buns”) with garlic mayo, dill pickles and iceberg lettuce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By early 2020, both HotBoys and Hotbird will open brick and mortar shops (the former in Oakland, the latter inside San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Nashville-hot-chicken-pop-up-Hotbird-finds-14484383.php\">Twitter building\u003c/a>). Nashville’s specialty has already spread nationwide, and now it’s time for the Bay Area to enjoy their own versions of cluckin’ good hot chicken. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just one question remains: How hot will you go?\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>At \u003ca href=\"https://worldfamoushotboys.com/\">World Famous HotBoys\u003c/a>, I once felt the sweat beading on my forehead just from watching someone eat their “hot”-level fried chicken sandwich. To personally consume a “hella hot” sandwich would mean giving the world my best impression of an erupting volcano.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some people just love the burn; I’m not one of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The style of spicy fried chicken HotBoys delivers is directly inspired by Nashville hot chicken. The chicken meat is marinated in a water-blend of seasoning, floured, fried and sauced using a paste spiced with cayenne pepper. “Things like how you spice the chicken vary,” explains HotBoys co-owner Victor Ghaben. “The type of peppers vary but the flavor profile outside the peppers does not.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The family behind Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack, the birthplace of Nashville hot chicken, has converted many diners to their fiery chicken — they even \u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2019/02/04/the-family-business-that-put-nashville-hot-chicken-on-the-map\">inspired Yo La Tengo to write three entire songs about the dish\u003c/a> (“Flying Lesson (Hot Chicken #1),” “Don’t Say a Word (Hot Chicken #2),” and “Return to Hot Chicken”). The annual \u003ca href=\"https://hot-chicken.com/about/what-is-hot-chicken#.XWbE_5NKjFw\">Music City Hot Chicken Festival\u003c/a> started in 2007, celebrating the city’s unique treat. Restaurateurs fell in love with Nashville hot chicken and spread the spicy gospel; the dish (or a variation of it) can be found all over the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In May, the Los Angeles Times ran the story \u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/food/la-fo-nashville-hot-chicken-princes-howlin-rays-20190509-story.html\">“Nashville hot chicken is taking over Los Angeles,”\u003c/a> pointing to over two dozen hot chicken joints opening in just the past three years. Bigger brands like Tyson and KFC have jumped on the bandwagon, offering their own versions of the Nashville hot chicken in restaurants and grocery stores.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Bay Area comes in (s)winging with new hot fried chicken spots\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>HotBoys isn’t the first to bring Nashville hot chicken to the temperate city by the bay, and it’s hard to say who was. \u003ca href=\"https://www.hardwaterbar.com/\">Hard Water\u003c/a>, opened by Charles Phan of Slanted Door, was one of the earlier adopters. According to the restaurant’s spokesperson, “Hard Water opened in March 2013. We put Nashville style chicken on the menu maybe about a year after the opening.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135057\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 999px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/wesburger-chicken-sandwich.jpg\" alt=\"WesBurger 'N' More’s hot chicken sandwich debuted in 2014.\" width=\"999\" height=\"1254\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135057\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/wesburger-chicken-sandwich.jpg 999w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/wesburger-chicken-sandwich-160x201.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/wesburger-chicken-sandwich-800x1004.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/wesburger-chicken-sandwich-768x964.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/wesburger-chicken-sandwich-956x1200.jpg 956w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 999px) 100vw, 999px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">WesBurger 'N' More’s hot chicken sandwich debuted in 2014. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.wesburgernmore.com/\">WesBurger 'N' More\u003c/a>’s owner Wes Rowe dabbled with hot chicken while managing his successful burger pop-ups. “I started making Nashville hot chicken at the pop-up in 2014 and it was a huge hit,” he says. It’s also one of his personal favorite styles of fried chicken. When his brick and mortar in the Mission officially opened in April 2016, hot chicken earned a spot on the menu. “It is the number two best-selling item and the number one best-selling item in delivery orders,” Rowe says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what about The Bird, one of San Francisco’s premiere fried chicken sandwich destinations? Though their spicy fried chicken is similar, it’s not true to the style of Nashville hot chicken. Their gluten-free, berbere-spiced batter is closer to East African hot chicken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2019 we can now say we have two Bay Area businesses completely dedicated to the tried and true Nashville hot chicken: \u003ca href=\"https://www.hotbirdfriedchicken.com/\">Hotbird\u003c/a> and World Famous HotBoys (both originated in Oakland). The former was founded in late 2017 by Aaron Nam and Caleb Longacre, two chefs who met while cooking at Iyasare. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135055\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1109px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/hotbird-Arielle-R.jpg\" alt=\"Two chicken sandwiches from Hotbird.\" width=\"1109\" height=\"1102\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135055\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/hotbird-Arielle-R.jpg 1109w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/hotbird-Arielle-R-160x159.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/hotbird-Arielle-R-800x795.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/hotbird-Arielle-R-768x763.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/hotbird-Arielle-R-1020x1014.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1109px) 100vw, 1109px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Two chicken sandwiches from Hotbird. \u003ccite>(Arielle R./Courtesy of Hotbird)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After Nam tried and fell in love with Los Angeles’ Howlin Rays, the two spent months testing their own hot chicken recipe; Hotbird started out at Oakland’s First Friday art walks before moving on to Off the Grid at Fort Mason and the Presidio Picnic.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "'The hottest thing we have might end their whole week's plans.'",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n“I believe most people really enjoy fried chicken and the spicy profile is something they look for,” Nam says. “So it’s almost like a perfect combination there.” Their spice levels run from “no heat” to “hot,” “extra hot” and “burnin’” — they use ghost peppers and Carolina Reaper peppers to achieve those higher levels. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ghaben and HotBoys co-owner Berk Gibbs started with pop-ups out of Ghaben’s backyard in 2017. Their recipes finalized, they revealed World Famous HotBoys to the public around June 2019 with pop-ups at Forage Kitchen while working on their Oakland brick and mortar. Like Hotbird, their spicy chicken has levels: “mild” to “hot” and “hella hot.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>How hot can you go?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>True Nashville hot chicken is supposed to be hot ... like, really hot. Ghaben describes his first time eating it as “an out of body experience.” For people who aren’t prepared for it, he advises sticking to medium-level spice for a first try. “The hottest thing we have,” Ghaben says, “might end their whole week's plans.” WesBurger 'N' More doesn’t offer different levels of spice—theirs is “just spicy.” Meanwhile, Hotbird’s owners describes their hottest level is “pretty spicy, but not spicy enough where you can’t finish half your meal.”\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The Bay Area’s take on the classic hot chicken sandwich leans heavily into all the fixins’. Nashville hot chicken is normally served with slices of white bread and pickles, and Hard Water’s version fills the carb slot with cornbread. However, WesBurger 'N' More, Hotbird and HotBoys all serve theirs as sandwiches — perhaps for portability’s sake. Plus, fried chicken sandwiches do seem to be all people are talking about these days (we’re looking at you, \u003ca href=\"https://www.businessinsider.com/popeyes-chicken-sandwich-rise-and-fall-story-2019-8\">Popeyes\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hotbird’s current sandwich has an apple cider vinegar slaw, comeback sauce (Nam explains that it’s “a Southern staple”), dill pickles and brioche buns. Rowe serves his sandwiches in his trademark burger buns (“they’re basically like white bread buns”) with garlic mayo, dill pickles and iceberg lettuce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By early 2020, both HotBoys and Hotbird will open brick and mortar shops (the former in Oakland, the latter inside San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Nashville-hot-chicken-pop-up-Hotbird-finds-14484383.php\">Twitter building\u003c/a>). Nashville’s specialty has already spread nationwide, and now it’s time for the Bay Area to enjoy their own versions of cluckin’ good hot chicken. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just one question remains: How hot will you go?\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Can Dry Farming Help Save California’s Vineyards?",
"title": "Can Dry Farming Help Save California’s Vineyards?",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ci>by Lela Nargi\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>California’s most recent drought lasted many long, parched years—eight in some regions—before ending in 2017 to the relief of everyone in and out of agriculture. For the state’s grape growers, it meant respite from parched vines putting out small berries and leaves and showing other signs of stress.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_68996,bayareabites_130307' label='More on Dry Farming']\u003cbr>\n“It was hard to walk through some vineyards and see vines dying, and there was nothing you could do,” says Tegan Passalacqua, director of winemaking for \u003ca href=\"http://www.turleywinecellars.com/\">Turley Wine Cellars\u003c/a>. “Some vineyards lost 300 vines in one year. Talk to the old timers, and they’ll tell you—they never remember that happening.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was plenty of suffering to go around, but some vineyards fared less terribly than others—historic parcels east of San Francisco, in Contra Costa County, for example. Planted at the turn of the last century by Italian, Portuguese, and Spanish immigrants, they rely on a technique called dry farming rather than irrigation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While these vineyards did not go unscathed during the drought, they did manage to “acclimatize,” says Charlie Tsegeletos, director of winemaking for \u003ca href=\"https://clinecellars.com/\">Cline Cellars\u003c/a>, which owns about 150 acres of heritage vineyards in the county and contracts from another 300 acres.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135019\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-4-Charlie-Tsegeletos-700x750.jpg\" alt=\"Cline Family Cellars winemaker Charlie Tsegeletos.\" width=\"700\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135019\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-4-Charlie-Tsegeletos-700x750.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-4-Charlie-Tsegeletos-700x750-160x171.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cline Family Cellars winemaker Charlie Tsegeletos. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cline Family Cellars)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All around them, Contra Costa is experiencing an explosion of development. The allure of living amid the old vineyards’ leafy, picturesque rows is, ironically, \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2009/08/10/farmland-conservation-the-important-lesson-of-brentwood-california/\">threatening their continued existence\u003c/a>. Tsegeletos says offers of hundreds of thousands of dollars per acre are hard to pass up for vineyard heirs with little interest in continuing the family business. With development has come concern that if these vineyards disappear, the knowledge the county’s dry farms can offer other wine-growing systems in fast-drying regions may also fade away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A critical lesson of dry farming “is that there are options,” says Matt Dees, winemaker at \u003ca href=\"https://www.jonata.com/\">Jonata Vineyard\u003c/a> in Southern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This has special relevance in light of the state’s \u003ca href=\"https://water.ca.gov/Programs/Groundwater-Management/SGMA-Groundwater-Management\">2014 Sustainable Groundwater Management Act\u003c/a> (SGMA), which will soon begin to \u003ca href=\"https://water.ca.gov/Programs/Groundwater-Management/SGMA-Groundwater-Management\">curtail the amount of water\u003c/a> that can be pumped from 21 critically over-drafted aquifers, several of which are in wine-producing regions. \u003ca href=\"https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nation/2019/09/08/climate-change-threatens-worlds-wineries-which-grapes-saved/2136457001/\">Some in the industry are already preparing\u003c/a> by shading vineyards, cover-cropping, and seeking out new rootstocks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Passalacqua says this past, balmy year in California was a “healing” time for vineyards, and sufficient winter rains allowed viticulturists to almost forget the specter of drought. But there’s no looking away from the changing climate. Vintners and winemakers are experiencing “a lot of urgency,” says Allison Jordan, executive director of the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance (CSWA). “I have great hope that we will find a way through.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Tenets of Dry Farming\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Two years ago, while contemplating the extreme variability in recent rainfall, Dees planted two experimental acres of dry-farmed grapes in a Jonata vineyard in \u003ca href=\"https://www.ballardcanyonava.org/\">Ballard Canyon\u003c/a>. He’d gotten to thinking, “What if the drought continues? What if nine inches of rain a year is the new normal? We’d better be ready.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dry farming, a method that’s been used for centuries to grow grapes, almonds, and olives in Mediterranean countries, requires soils with enough structure to hold moisture from \u003ca href=\"https://water.ca.gov/LegacyFiles/floodmgmt/hafoo/csc/docs/CA_Precipitation_2pager.pdf\">seasonal rains\u003c/a> for months at a time—in California, these rains happen between October and April. One method is to plant young vines that are grafted to vigorous rootstocks relatively far apart and water them for only their first two years in the ground. The point is to encourage their roots to dig deep into the dirt from which they’ll pull stored rainwater starting in year three.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135020\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-1-jonata-vineyards-700x468.jpg\" alt=\"Dry farmed grape vineyards\" width=\"700\" height=\"468\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135020\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-1-jonata-vineyards-700x468.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-1-jonata-vineyards-700x468-160x107.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dry farmed grape vineyards \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jonata)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“In dry farming, you’re putting resistance into the system,” says Stephen Gliessman, an emeritus agroecologist at the University of Santa Cruz who also co-owns the dry-farmed vineyard \u003ca href=\"http://www.condorshope.com/\">Condor’s Hope\u003c/a> in the Cuyama Valley of northern Santa Barbara County.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though plenty of wine grape growers in the state practice dry farming, the method represents a drop in the bucket of a $70 billion business. Tightly spaced, high-yield, drip-irrigated vineyards are much in favor; their practices encourage roots to hang out near the surface of the soil, where they expect to find water—and they can’t survive without a frequent fix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dry-farming yields per acre can be lower; \u003ca href=\"http://www.caff.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Dry-Farming-BMP-Guide_web.pdf\">some estimates\u003c/a> put them at two to three tons per acre, versus three to four tons for premium grapes. Fans of wines made from dry-farmed grapes, however, extoll their more complex flavors. “But vineyards today are too focused on maximizing yields rather than adapting to local conditions so they’re not so dependent on water,” Gliessman says. “They’re using a limited resource, and climate change makes it worse.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Small Farms Experimenting with New (Old) Methods\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Gliessman and his neighbors in the near-desert of Cuyama could watch this scenario play out at a vineyard \u003ca href=\"https://www.thecrimson.com/article/2019/3/6/hmc-vineyard-environmental-review/\">owned by the company\u003c/a> that manages Harvard University’s endowment. North Fork Vineyard’s irrigation system is drawing what Gliessman calls “excessive” groundwater from one of those 21 critically over-drafted aquifers. This water use has raised the hackles of residents, who are waiting to see how SGMA, which spurred \u003ca href=\"http://cuyamabasin.org/assets/pdf/Cuyama-GSP-Section-4-Monitoring-Networks.pdf\">Cuyama’s Groundwater Management Plan\u003c/a>, will affect the valley starting next year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Harvard’s vineyard, says Gliessman, is a prime example—although certainly not the only one—of grapes being planted in a manner that is not appropriate for the land and the available water. “Companies growing grapes industrially have to start accepting the fact that water-intensive systems are going to have to change.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the moment, though, it’s smaller wineries that seem most open to adapting. This is partly to do with finances. Big companies can afford to shell out for increasingly expensive water rights where needed, or purchase additional acres in cooler places, like British Columbia, says David Runsten, policy director of sustainability advocacy organization \u003ca href=\"https://www.caff.org/\">Community Alliance with Family Farmers\u003c/a> (CAFF). Smaller operations, he says, “are stuck where they are. But can they dry farm?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135021\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-3-grapes-with-cover-crops-caff.jpg\" alt=\"Dry-farmed grapevines with cover crops.\" width=\"640\" height=\"631\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135021\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-3-grapes-with-cover-crops-caff.jpg 640w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-3-grapes-with-cover-crops-caff-160x158.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dry-farmed grapevines with cover crops. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of CAFF)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jonata’s Dees is not the only one trying. More than half of Turley’s 50 vineyards across the state practice dry farming. Cline is experimenting with own-rooted—as opposed to grafted—vines on some near-dry-farmed blocks at its home base in Sonoma; Tsegeletos calls it “risky” due to pest concerns. \u003ca href=\"https://tablascreek.com/\">Tablas Creek\u003c/a>, in Paso Robles, mostly dry farms its roughly 120 acres and has set up 30 acres the “old-fashioned California way,” with vines far apart and no irrigation system installed, according to general manager Jason Haas. He says in those blocks, “Getting into harvest season in the drought years, it looked like there was no drought at all.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A grower can’t just one day decide to up and dry farm. “It requires thinking [in advance] about how to get vines to generate a deep root system,” says Haas; as vineyard parcels come to the end of their lives, though, they can be replaced. Dry farming also isn’t right if soils and rainfall aren’t a match.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Haas, Runsten, and Gliessman all think more vineyards could adopt the practice. In Mendocino County, says Runsten, many wineries irrigate their vines, “and I can’t understand why. They’re next to the Russian River and get plenty of rain.” He blames convention—the idea that “this is the way things are done”—and the risk-averse nature of vineyard consultants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“As you go farther north and closer to the coast, dry farming becomes more viable,” says Haas. Some winemakers argue that it could even work for \u003ca href=\"http://agwaterstewards.org/practices/dry_farming/\">all of landlocked Napa\u003c/a>, where \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/wine/article/Napa-wineries-confront-climate-change-by-planting-14308512.php\">the San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a> reported recently that climate-slammed vineyards are scrambling to try out heat-hardy varietals.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Spreading the Dry-Farming Gospel\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Tablas Creek and other vineyards have hosted seminars presented by CAFF to offer up research and help viticulturists think about adjusting the way they grow grapes. Runsten says there’s been a general pooh-poohing of some of CAFF’s projected climate models. On the flip side, Haas sees grower interest in dry farming increasing. “All over, there are people who are terrified” about the shifting climate, he says; to prepare, many of them are willing to try something new to them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135022\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 350px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-2-jonata-matt-dees-drew-pickering-ruben-solorzano-350x525.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Dees (center), with assistant winemaker Drew Pickering (left) and vineyard manager Ruben Solorzano (right).\" width=\"350\" height=\"525\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135022\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-2-jonata-matt-dees-drew-pickering-ruben-solorzano-350x525.jpg 350w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-2-jonata-matt-dees-drew-pickering-ruben-solorzano-350x525-160x240.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Dees (center), with assistant winemaker Drew Pickering (left) and vineyard manager Ruben Solorzano (right). \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jonata)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two years into his dry-farming experiment, Jonata’s Dees is not a card-carrying convert. “There are people who are taking up the dry-farming torch and saying the old vines are the ideal, but it’s not black and white to me,” he says. He thinks an “integrated” approach that reduces reliance on irrigation but also increases soil health, might be more viable for a lot of vineyards. California’s \u003ca href=\"http://calclimateag.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Healthy-Soils-Fact-Sheet-2018.pdf\">Healthy Soils Program makes grants\u003c/a> to wine grape growers for just that latter purpose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, watching the young vines in his experimental block dig deep to find water has been eye opening, he says, and perhaps indicates that they’re stronger than he gave them credit for. There’s also “a feeling you get sometimes in vineyards, and this feels really good.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>CAFF received grant money from the California Department of Water Resources (DWR) to run seminars a few years ago and continues to conduct them when it can. DWR funds other water-use efficiency programs for vineyards, although they are mostly focused on irrigation systems, according to information shared by the department.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CSWA supports water use reduction goals, too, including improved irrigation systems and monitoring with technology such as drones; encouraging best practices such as cover crop management; and third-party sustainability certification that includes a water component. The Alliance partnered with CAFF to produce some dry-farming case studies, says CSWA’s Jordan, who believes, too, that dry farming could expand in California. “In places where it’s appropriate, I think additional education will help increase rates” of adoption, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even beyond the focus of dry farming, Dees says, “Grumpy old farmers are getting together to talk about [sustainability]. That says a ton.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Contra Costa County, efforts to preserve the old vineyards continue. Cline’s Tsegeletos says that the city of Oakley seems genuinely interested in trying to keep them around, offering some rent-free acres. But should development amp up throughout the county, Gliessman says there will be repercussions, and not just for the vineyards. Swimming pools and lawns use a lot of groundwater; pavement “affects the capacity of systems to take in water, get it into the soil system, and help maintain groundwater—it all runs off instead.” Whoever’s left behind to use that water, they’ll have less of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beyond that, Gliessman sees something urgent yet less visible at stake. “Taking the place of these small operations are large-scale industrial [ones],” he said. “What we’re losing are people who live on the land, work it, know it and its history, and are committed to sustainability. And that is what the future of agriculture should be.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/10/03/can-dry-farming-help-save-californias-vineyards/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ci>by Lela Nargi\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>California’s most recent drought lasted many long, parched years—eight in some regions—before ending in 2017 to the relief of everyone in and out of agriculture. For the state’s grape growers, it meant respite from parched vines putting out small berries and leaves and showing other signs of stress.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n“It was hard to walk through some vineyards and see vines dying, and there was nothing you could do,” says Tegan Passalacqua, director of winemaking for \u003ca href=\"http://www.turleywinecellars.com/\">Turley Wine Cellars\u003c/a>. “Some vineyards lost 300 vines in one year. Talk to the old timers, and they’ll tell you—they never remember that happening.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was plenty of suffering to go around, but some vineyards fared less terribly than others—historic parcels east of San Francisco, in Contra Costa County, for example. Planted at the turn of the last century by Italian, Portuguese, and Spanish immigrants, they rely on a technique called dry farming rather than irrigation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While these vineyards did not go unscathed during the drought, they did manage to “acclimatize,” says Charlie Tsegeletos, director of winemaking for \u003ca href=\"https://clinecellars.com/\">Cline Cellars\u003c/a>, which owns about 150 acres of heritage vineyards in the county and contracts from another 300 acres.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135019\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-4-Charlie-Tsegeletos-700x750.jpg\" alt=\"Cline Family Cellars winemaker Charlie Tsegeletos.\" width=\"700\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135019\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-4-Charlie-Tsegeletos-700x750.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-4-Charlie-Tsegeletos-700x750-160x171.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cline Family Cellars winemaker Charlie Tsegeletos. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cline Family Cellars)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All around them, Contra Costa is experiencing an explosion of development. The allure of living amid the old vineyards’ leafy, picturesque rows is, ironically, \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2009/08/10/farmland-conservation-the-important-lesson-of-brentwood-california/\">threatening their continued existence\u003c/a>. Tsegeletos says offers of hundreds of thousands of dollars per acre are hard to pass up for vineyard heirs with little interest in continuing the family business. With development has come concern that if these vineyards disappear, the knowledge the county’s dry farms can offer other wine-growing systems in fast-drying regions may also fade away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A critical lesson of dry farming “is that there are options,” says Matt Dees, winemaker at \u003ca href=\"https://www.jonata.com/\">Jonata Vineyard\u003c/a> in Southern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This has special relevance in light of the state’s \u003ca href=\"https://water.ca.gov/Programs/Groundwater-Management/SGMA-Groundwater-Management\">2014 Sustainable Groundwater Management Act\u003c/a> (SGMA), which will soon begin to \u003ca href=\"https://water.ca.gov/Programs/Groundwater-Management/SGMA-Groundwater-Management\">curtail the amount of water\u003c/a> that can be pumped from 21 critically over-drafted aquifers, several of which are in wine-producing regions. \u003ca href=\"https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nation/2019/09/08/climate-change-threatens-worlds-wineries-which-grapes-saved/2136457001/\">Some in the industry are already preparing\u003c/a> by shading vineyards, cover-cropping, and seeking out new rootstocks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Passalacqua says this past, balmy year in California was a “healing” time for vineyards, and sufficient winter rains allowed viticulturists to almost forget the specter of drought. But there’s no looking away from the changing climate. Vintners and winemakers are experiencing “a lot of urgency,” says Allison Jordan, executive director of the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance (CSWA). “I have great hope that we will find a way through.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Tenets of Dry Farming\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Two years ago, while contemplating the extreme variability in recent rainfall, Dees planted two experimental acres of dry-farmed grapes in a Jonata vineyard in \u003ca href=\"https://www.ballardcanyonava.org/\">Ballard Canyon\u003c/a>. He’d gotten to thinking, “What if the drought continues? What if nine inches of rain a year is the new normal? We’d better be ready.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dry farming, a method that’s been used for centuries to grow grapes, almonds, and olives in Mediterranean countries, requires soils with enough structure to hold moisture from \u003ca href=\"https://water.ca.gov/LegacyFiles/floodmgmt/hafoo/csc/docs/CA_Precipitation_2pager.pdf\">seasonal rains\u003c/a> for months at a time—in California, these rains happen between October and April. One method is to plant young vines that are grafted to vigorous rootstocks relatively far apart and water them for only their first two years in the ground. The point is to encourage their roots to dig deep into the dirt from which they’ll pull stored rainwater starting in year three.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135020\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-1-jonata-vineyards-700x468.jpg\" alt=\"Dry farmed grape vineyards\" width=\"700\" height=\"468\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135020\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-1-jonata-vineyards-700x468.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-1-jonata-vineyards-700x468-160x107.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dry farmed grape vineyards \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jonata)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“In dry farming, you’re putting resistance into the system,” says Stephen Gliessman, an emeritus agroecologist at the University of Santa Cruz who also co-owns the dry-farmed vineyard \u003ca href=\"http://www.condorshope.com/\">Condor’s Hope\u003c/a> in the Cuyama Valley of northern Santa Barbara County.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though plenty of wine grape growers in the state practice dry farming, the method represents a drop in the bucket of a $70 billion business. Tightly spaced, high-yield, drip-irrigated vineyards are much in favor; their practices encourage roots to hang out near the surface of the soil, where they expect to find water—and they can’t survive without a frequent fix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dry-farming yields per acre can be lower; \u003ca href=\"http://www.caff.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Dry-Farming-BMP-Guide_web.pdf\">some estimates\u003c/a> put them at two to three tons per acre, versus three to four tons for premium grapes. Fans of wines made from dry-farmed grapes, however, extoll their more complex flavors. “But vineyards today are too focused on maximizing yields rather than adapting to local conditions so they’re not so dependent on water,” Gliessman says. “They’re using a limited resource, and climate change makes it worse.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Small Farms Experimenting with New (Old) Methods\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Gliessman and his neighbors in the near-desert of Cuyama could watch this scenario play out at a vineyard \u003ca href=\"https://www.thecrimson.com/article/2019/3/6/hmc-vineyard-environmental-review/\">owned by the company\u003c/a> that manages Harvard University’s endowment. North Fork Vineyard’s irrigation system is drawing what Gliessman calls “excessive” groundwater from one of those 21 critically over-drafted aquifers. This water use has raised the hackles of residents, who are waiting to see how SGMA, which spurred \u003ca href=\"http://cuyamabasin.org/assets/pdf/Cuyama-GSP-Section-4-Monitoring-Networks.pdf\">Cuyama’s Groundwater Management Plan\u003c/a>, will affect the valley starting next year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Harvard’s vineyard, says Gliessman, is a prime example—although certainly not the only one—of grapes being planted in a manner that is not appropriate for the land and the available water. “Companies growing grapes industrially have to start accepting the fact that water-intensive systems are going to have to change.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the moment, though, it’s smaller wineries that seem most open to adapting. This is partly to do with finances. Big companies can afford to shell out for increasingly expensive water rights where needed, or purchase additional acres in cooler places, like British Columbia, says David Runsten, policy director of sustainability advocacy organization \u003ca href=\"https://www.caff.org/\">Community Alliance with Family Farmers\u003c/a> (CAFF). Smaller operations, he says, “are stuck where they are. But can they dry farm?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135021\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-3-grapes-with-cover-crops-caff.jpg\" alt=\"Dry-farmed grapevines with cover crops.\" width=\"640\" height=\"631\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135021\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-3-grapes-with-cover-crops-caff.jpg 640w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-3-grapes-with-cover-crops-caff-160x158.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dry-farmed grapevines with cover crops. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of CAFF)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jonata’s Dees is not the only one trying. More than half of Turley’s 50 vineyards across the state practice dry farming. Cline is experimenting with own-rooted—as opposed to grafted—vines on some near-dry-farmed blocks at its home base in Sonoma; Tsegeletos calls it “risky” due to pest concerns. \u003ca href=\"https://tablascreek.com/\">Tablas Creek\u003c/a>, in Paso Robles, mostly dry farms its roughly 120 acres and has set up 30 acres the “old-fashioned California way,” with vines far apart and no irrigation system installed, according to general manager Jason Haas. He says in those blocks, “Getting into harvest season in the drought years, it looked like there was no drought at all.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A grower can’t just one day decide to up and dry farm. “It requires thinking [in advance] about how to get vines to generate a deep root system,” says Haas; as vineyard parcels come to the end of their lives, though, they can be replaced. Dry farming also isn’t right if soils and rainfall aren’t a match.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Haas, Runsten, and Gliessman all think more vineyards could adopt the practice. In Mendocino County, says Runsten, many wineries irrigate their vines, “and I can’t understand why. They’re next to the Russian River and get plenty of rain.” He blames convention—the idea that “this is the way things are done”—and the risk-averse nature of vineyard consultants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“As you go farther north and closer to the coast, dry farming becomes more viable,” says Haas. Some winemakers argue that it could even work for \u003ca href=\"http://agwaterstewards.org/practices/dry_farming/\">all of landlocked Napa\u003c/a>, where \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/wine/article/Napa-wineries-confront-climate-change-by-planting-14308512.php\">the San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a> reported recently that climate-slammed vineyards are scrambling to try out heat-hardy varietals.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Spreading the Dry-Farming Gospel\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Tablas Creek and other vineyards have hosted seminars presented by CAFF to offer up research and help viticulturists think about adjusting the way they grow grapes. Runsten says there’s been a general pooh-poohing of some of CAFF’s projected climate models. On the flip side, Haas sees grower interest in dry farming increasing. “All over, there are people who are terrified” about the shifting climate, he says; to prepare, many of them are willing to try something new to them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135022\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 350px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-2-jonata-matt-dees-drew-pickering-ruben-solorzano-350x525.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Dees (center), with assistant winemaker Drew Pickering (left) and vineyard manager Ruben Solorzano (right).\" width=\"350\" height=\"525\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135022\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-2-jonata-matt-dees-drew-pickering-ruben-solorzano-350x525.jpg 350w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-2-jonata-matt-dees-drew-pickering-ruben-solorzano-350x525-160x240.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Dees (center), with assistant winemaker Drew Pickering (left) and vineyard manager Ruben Solorzano (right). \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jonata)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two years into his dry-farming experiment, Jonata’s Dees is not a card-carrying convert. “There are people who are taking up the dry-farming torch and saying the old vines are the ideal, but it’s not black and white to me,” he says. He thinks an “integrated” approach that reduces reliance on irrigation but also increases soil health, might be more viable for a lot of vineyards. California’s \u003ca href=\"http://calclimateag.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Healthy-Soils-Fact-Sheet-2018.pdf\">Healthy Soils Program makes grants\u003c/a> to wine grape growers for just that latter purpose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, watching the young vines in his experimental block dig deep to find water has been eye opening, he says, and perhaps indicates that they’re stronger than he gave them credit for. There’s also “a feeling you get sometimes in vineyards, and this feels really good.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>CAFF received grant money from the California Department of Water Resources (DWR) to run seminars a few years ago and continues to conduct them when it can. DWR funds other water-use efficiency programs for vineyards, although they are mostly focused on irrigation systems, according to information shared by the department.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CSWA supports water use reduction goals, too, including improved irrigation systems and monitoring with technology such as drones; encouraging best practices such as cover crop management; and third-party sustainability certification that includes a water component. The Alliance partnered with CAFF to produce some dry-farming case studies, says CSWA’s Jordan, who believes, too, that dry farming could expand in California. “In places where it’s appropriate, I think additional education will help increase rates” of adoption, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even beyond the focus of dry farming, Dees says, “Grumpy old farmers are getting together to talk about [sustainability]. That says a ton.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Contra Costa County, efforts to preserve the old vineyards continue. Cline’s Tsegeletos says that the city of Oakley seems genuinely interested in trying to keep them around, offering some rent-free acres. But should development amp up throughout the county, Gliessman says there will be repercussions, and not just for the vineyards. Swimming pools and lawns use a lot of groundwater; pavement “affects the capacity of systems to take in water, get it into the soil system, and help maintain groundwater—it all runs off instead.” Whoever’s left behind to use that water, they’ll have less of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beyond that, Gliessman sees something urgent yet less visible at stake. “Taking the place of these small operations are large-scale industrial [ones],” he said. “What we’re losing are people who live on the land, work it, know it and its history, and are committed to sustainability. And that is what the future of agriculture should be.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/10/03/can-dry-farming-help-save-californias-vineyards/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Special Ingredient in This Gelato? Buffalo Milk",
"title": "The Special Ingredient in This Gelato? Buffalo Milk",
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"content": "\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_133544,bayareabites_96988' label='More Frozen Treats' target=_]\u003cbr>\nYulia and Kal Morsey could never have predicted their current life. She’s a trained psychologist from Russia. He’s a former banker and businessman. But here they are running their own water buffalo dairy farm, a restaurant in Palo Alto and now \u003ca href=\"http://morseyscreamery.com/\">Morsey’s Creamery\u003c/a>, the only ice cream shop south of San Francisco producing gelato with water buffalo milk (residents and visitors located north can find buffalo milk gelato at Pt. Reyes's \u003ca href=\"https://palacemarket.com/\">Palace Market\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a child, Kal Morsey recalls how common it was to consume water buffalo milk dairy products in Egypt. In fact, he says Egyptians have always seen it as a better quality milk overall. “The difference between water buffalo’s milk and cow’s milk is quite substantial in taste, flavor, and texture. In this country, there are so many big-name gourmet foods and you still can’t find any buffalo milk at the store.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yulia agrees, especially when it comes to ice cream. \"I tried buffalo’s milk ice cream when I visited Egypt while we were dating 35 years ago. I had never tasted anything like it. The memory of that stayed with me all these years.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134897\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/morseys-creamery-logo.jpg\" alt=\"Morsey’s Creamery, the only ice cream shop in the Bay Area producing gelato with water buffalo milk.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/morseys-creamery-logo.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/morseys-creamery-logo-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/morseys-creamery-logo-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/morseys-creamery-logo-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/morseys-creamery-logo-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/morseys-creamery-logo-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Morsey’s Creamery, the only ice cream shop in the Bay Area producing gelato with water buffalo milk. \u003ccite>(Elaine Wu/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After living in the States for several decades, he never gave up hope of finding the dairy foods of his youth. Seven years ago, he decided to visit the only buffalo farm he could find in California, Double 8 Dairy in Petaluma. To this day, Double 8 Dairy still supplies restaurants (and Palace Market) with buffalo milk gelato — owner Andrew Zlot opened a gelato kiosk in 2014 but the location eventually closed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back then, Kal was told that mainstream buffalo’s milk products just didn’t exist. That’s when he decided to take matters into his own hands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The only buffalo breeder we knew of was in Texas. So I decided to buy six water buffaloes from them to start with. Stupid, I know,” he recalls. “I kept thinking, what do I do next? What am I gonna do with these water buffalo? I got so invested in the idea of it being the next big thing. Then all of a sudden, I realized I should open a restaurant so I could use our dairy products and spread the word.” Said restaurant, Morsey’s Farmhouse, finally opened in Los Altos in early 2018.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134893\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134893\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-milk-mozzarella.jpg\" alt=\"The Morsey’s fresh water buffalo milk mozzarella.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-milk-mozzarella.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-milk-mozzarella-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-milk-mozzarella-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-milk-mozzarella-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-milk-mozzarella-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-milk-mozzarella-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Morsey’s fresh water buffalo milk mozzarella. \u003ccite>(Elaine Wu/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These days, the Morseys have their own 50-acre ranch outside of Sacramento with 400 water buffalo. They also have their own dairy plant on site where they make their own buffalo's milk dairy products, all of which they use and sell in their restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the Morseys decided to potentially open a gelato shop, they began hiring culinary consultants from Italy and Southern California to help develop their recipes. But the journey was difficult because \"nobody knew how to work with buffalo milk and turn it into cream. It’s a completely different composition than cow’s milk. We failed so many times. This gelato recipe that we use now took us 3 years to make.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re not skimping on their other ingredients either. Besides staying away from anything artificial, their neighbor's hive produces their shop’s honey, they roast their own Cecilian pistachios and they use premium Belgian chocolate. “But we think the gelato itself is the star,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134894\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134894\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-gelato-flavors.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-gelato-flavors.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-gelato-flavors-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-gelato-flavors-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-gelato-flavors-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-gelato-flavors-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-gelato-flavors-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Various flavors of water buffalo milk gelato at Morsey’s Creamery. \u003ccite>(Elaine Wu/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Convincing Americans that buffalo milk is the next big thing has also been a challenge. Kal Morsey believes, “When Americans hear ‘buffalo milk’ they think gaminess. But there is absolutely no gaminess. It’s actually sweeter and creamier than cow’s milk, but not heavy. It’s the way milk should taste. And it has three times the fat content of cow’s milk, but is two-thirds lower in cholesterol. It’s also higher in protein.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“And there’s no aftertaste,” adds Yulia. ”In the end, it’s all about taste. I don’t need to convince anybody if they just try it. You should see the reaction from people after they’ve tried the gelato. I love to see their faces.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134895\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134895\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pistachio-gelato-flavor.jpg\" alt=\"Pistachio flavor water buffalo milk gelato from Morsey’s Creamery.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pistachio-gelato-flavor.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pistachio-gelato-flavor-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pistachio-gelato-flavor-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pistachio-gelato-flavor-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pistachio-gelato-flavor-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pistachio-gelato-flavor-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pistachio flavor water buffalo milk gelato from Morsey’s Creamery. \u003ccite>(Elaine Wu/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Since opening Morsey’s Creamery just this past August, business has been strong for their tiny shop on University Avenue in Palo Alto. And they've seen a steady yet noticeable increase every week they've been open.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For all the money and hard work the Morseys have invested, Yulia believes it’s all been worth it. “It feels like a mission and I have to share this passion. I truly believe our time is not wasted with this. People deserve to eat better. It’s hard work but even if it doesn’t work out, at least we can say we tried.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kal adds, “In life, you don’t always choose your path. Sometimes your path chooses you.”\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "In Palo Alto, you'll find a rare treat: buffalo milk-made gelato. It's owned and operated by a couple with their own herd of water buffalo in Sacramento.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nYulia and Kal Morsey could never have predicted their current life. She’s a trained psychologist from Russia. He’s a former banker and businessman. But here they are running their own water buffalo dairy farm, a restaurant in Palo Alto and now \u003ca href=\"http://morseyscreamery.com/\">Morsey’s Creamery\u003c/a>, the only ice cream shop south of San Francisco producing gelato with water buffalo milk (residents and visitors located north can find buffalo milk gelato at Pt. Reyes's \u003ca href=\"https://palacemarket.com/\">Palace Market\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a child, Kal Morsey recalls how common it was to consume water buffalo milk dairy products in Egypt. In fact, he says Egyptians have always seen it as a better quality milk overall. “The difference between water buffalo’s milk and cow’s milk is quite substantial in taste, flavor, and texture. In this country, there are so many big-name gourmet foods and you still can’t find any buffalo milk at the store.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yulia agrees, especially when it comes to ice cream. \"I tried buffalo’s milk ice cream when I visited Egypt while we were dating 35 years ago. I had never tasted anything like it. The memory of that stayed with me all these years.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134897\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/morseys-creamery-logo.jpg\" alt=\"Morsey’s Creamery, the only ice cream shop in the Bay Area producing gelato with water buffalo milk.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/morseys-creamery-logo.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/morseys-creamery-logo-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/morseys-creamery-logo-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/morseys-creamery-logo-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/morseys-creamery-logo-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/morseys-creamery-logo-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Morsey’s Creamery, the only ice cream shop in the Bay Area producing gelato with water buffalo milk. \u003ccite>(Elaine Wu/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After living in the States for several decades, he never gave up hope of finding the dairy foods of his youth. Seven years ago, he decided to visit the only buffalo farm he could find in California, Double 8 Dairy in Petaluma. To this day, Double 8 Dairy still supplies restaurants (and Palace Market) with buffalo milk gelato — owner Andrew Zlot opened a gelato kiosk in 2014 but the location eventually closed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back then, Kal was told that mainstream buffalo’s milk products just didn’t exist. That’s when he decided to take matters into his own hands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The only buffalo breeder we knew of was in Texas. So I decided to buy six water buffaloes from them to start with. Stupid, I know,” he recalls. “I kept thinking, what do I do next? What am I gonna do with these water buffalo? I got so invested in the idea of it being the next big thing. Then all of a sudden, I realized I should open a restaurant so I could use our dairy products and spread the word.” Said restaurant, Morsey’s Farmhouse, finally opened in Los Altos in early 2018.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134893\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134893\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-milk-mozzarella.jpg\" alt=\"The Morsey’s fresh water buffalo milk mozzarella.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-milk-mozzarella.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-milk-mozzarella-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-milk-mozzarella-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-milk-mozzarella-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-milk-mozzarella-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-milk-mozzarella-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Morsey’s fresh water buffalo milk mozzarella. \u003ccite>(Elaine Wu/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These days, the Morseys have their own 50-acre ranch outside of Sacramento with 400 water buffalo. They also have their own dairy plant on site where they make their own buffalo's milk dairy products, all of which they use and sell in their restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the Morseys decided to potentially open a gelato shop, they began hiring culinary consultants from Italy and Southern California to help develop their recipes. But the journey was difficult because \"nobody knew how to work with buffalo milk and turn it into cream. It’s a completely different composition than cow’s milk. We failed so many times. This gelato recipe that we use now took us 3 years to make.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re not skimping on their other ingredients either. Besides staying away from anything artificial, their neighbor's hive produces their shop’s honey, they roast their own Cecilian pistachios and they use premium Belgian chocolate. “But we think the gelato itself is the star,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134894\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134894\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-gelato-flavors.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-gelato-flavors.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-gelato-flavors-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-gelato-flavors-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-gelato-flavors-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-gelato-flavors-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/water-buffalo-gelato-flavors-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Various flavors of water buffalo milk gelato at Morsey’s Creamery. \u003ccite>(Elaine Wu/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Convincing Americans that buffalo milk is the next big thing has also been a challenge. Kal Morsey believes, “When Americans hear ‘buffalo milk’ they think gaminess. But there is absolutely no gaminess. It’s actually sweeter and creamier than cow’s milk, but not heavy. It’s the way milk should taste. And it has three times the fat content of cow’s milk, but is two-thirds lower in cholesterol. It’s also higher in protein.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“And there’s no aftertaste,” adds Yulia. ”In the end, it’s all about taste. I don’t need to convince anybody if they just try it. You should see the reaction from people after they’ve tried the gelato. I love to see their faces.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134895\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134895\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pistachio-gelato-flavor.jpg\" alt=\"Pistachio flavor water buffalo milk gelato from Morsey’s Creamery.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pistachio-gelato-flavor.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pistachio-gelato-flavor-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pistachio-gelato-flavor-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pistachio-gelato-flavor-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pistachio-gelato-flavor-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pistachio-gelato-flavor-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pistachio flavor water buffalo milk gelato from Morsey’s Creamery. \u003ccite>(Elaine Wu/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Since opening Morsey’s Creamery just this past August, business has been strong for their tiny shop on University Avenue in Palo Alto. And they've seen a steady yet noticeable increase every week they've been open.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For all the money and hard work the Morseys have invested, Yulia believes it’s all been worth it. “It feels like a mission and I have to share this passion. I truly believe our time is not wasted with this. People deserve to eat better. It’s hard work but even if it doesn’t work out, at least we can say we tried.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kal adds, “In life, you don’t always choose your path. Sometimes your path chooses you.”\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "When Efforts To Eat 'Clean' Become An Unhealthy Obsession",
"title": "When Efforts To Eat 'Clean' Become An Unhealthy Obsession",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp> [aside postID='bayareabites_134729,bayareabites_134201' label='More on Clean Eating']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether it's gluten-free, dairy-free, raw food, or all-organic, many people these days are committed to so-called \"clean eating\" — the idea that choosing only whole foods in their natural state and avoiding processed ones can improve health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not necessarily a bad thing to eat this way, but sometimes these kinds of food preferences can begin to take over people's lives, making them fear social events where they won't be able to find the \"right\" foods. When a healthful eating pattern goes too far, it may turn into an eating disorder that scientists are just beginning to study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alex Everakes, 25, is a public relations account executive from Chicago. As a kid, he struggled with being overweight. In his teens and 20s, he tried to diet, and he gained and lost and regained about 100 pounds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When he moved to Los Angeles after college, he took his diet to a new level. He started working out twice a day. At one point, he ate just 10 foods — \"Spinach, chicken, egg whites, red peppers — because green peppers make you bloated — spaghetti squash, asparagus, salmon, berries, unsweetened almond milk, almond butter,\" Everakes says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He went from 250 pounds at his heaviest, down to 140. He posted pictures of his six-pack abs and his\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\"clean\" diet online and was praised for it. He felt virtuous, but at the same time, he was starving, tired and lonely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My life literally was modeled to put myself away from destruction of my fitness,\" Everakes says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He became afraid to eat certain foods. He worked at home to avoid office parties where he'd have to eat in front of others. He didn't go out or make friends because he didn't want to have to explain his diet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It turns out Everakes was struggling with something called orthorexia nervosa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Orthorexia is a fairly recent phenomenon. Dr. \u003ca href=\"http://www.orthorexia.com\">Steven Bratman\u003c/a>, an alternative medicine practitioner in the 1990s, first coined the term in an \u003ca href=\"https://www.orthorexia.com/original-orthorexia-essay/\">essay\u003c/a> in the nonscientific \u003cem>Yoga Journal\u003c/em> in 1997. Many of his patients eschewed traditional medicine and believed that the key to good health was simply eating the \"right\" foods. Some of them would ask him what foods they should cut out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134968\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/orthorexia-clean-eating-1_enl-ef6455f001273b6490ef00992dc0c71071b3977c-e1570463420973.jpg\" alt=\"Whether it's gluten or dairy, many people avoid certain types of foods. Sometimes food avoidance can turn into fear, obsession and even veer into an eating disorder that scientists are just beginning to study.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134968\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Whether it's gluten or dairy, many people avoid certain types of foods. Sometimes food avoidance can turn into fear, obsession and even veer into an eating disorder that scientists are just beginning to study. \u003ccite>(Meredith Rizzo/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"People would think they should cut out all dairy and they should cut out all lentils, all wheat ... And it dawned on me gradually that many of these patients, their primary problem was that they were ... far too strict with themselves,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So Bratman made up the name orthorexia,\u003cem> \u003c/em>borrowing\u003cem> ortho\u003c/em> from the Greek word meaning \"right\" and \u003cem>-orexia\u003c/em> meaning \"appetite.\" He added \u003cem>nervosa\u003c/em> as a reference to \u003cem>anorexia nervosa\u003c/em>, the well-known eating disorder which causes people to starve themselves to be thin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"From then on, whenever a patient would ask me what food to cut out, I would say, 'We need to work on your orthorexia.' This would often make them laugh and let them loosen up, and sometimes it helped people move from extremism to moderation,\" he recalls.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bratman had no idea that the concept of \"clean eating\"\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>would explode over the next two decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Where dieters once gobbled down no-sugar gelatin or fat-free shakes, now they might seek out organic kale and wild salmon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rise of celebrity diet gurus and glamorous food photos on social media reinforce the idea that eating only certain foods and avoiding others is a virtue — practically a religion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://sondrakronberg.com\">Sondra Kronberg\u003c/a>, founder and executive director of the Eating Disorder Treatment Collaborative outside New York City, has seen a lot of diet trends over the past 40 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So orthorexia is a reflection on a larger scale of the cultural perspective on 'eating cleanly,' eating ... healthfully, avoiding toxins — including foods that might have some 'super power,' \" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Kronberg and other nutritionists applaud efforts to eat healthfully.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>The problem comes, she says, when you are so focused on your diet that \"it begins to infringe on the quality of your life — your ability to be spontaneous and engage.\" That's when you should start to worry about an eating disorder, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In the case of orthorexia, it centers around eating 'cleanly' and purely, where the other eating disorders center around size and weight and a drive for thinness,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes these problems overlap, and some people who only eat \"clean\" foods miss critical nutrients from the foods they cut out or don't consume enough calories. \"It could become a health hazard and ultimately, it can be fatal,\" Kronberg says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134969\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/orthorexia-7_enl-be6a21f7656e19fa42295b2c277c1cfbc156e76e-e1570463492211.jpg\" alt=\"The rise of celebrity diet gurus posting food photos on social media has reinforced the idea that eating only certain foods is a virtue.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134969\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The rise of celebrity diet gurus posting food photos on social media has reinforced the idea that eating only certain foods is a virtue. \u003ccite>(Meredith Rizzo/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While people with these symptoms are showing up in clinics like Kronberg's, scientists don't agree on what orthorexia is.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dr. \u003ca href=\"https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/psychiatrists/se-specter-md-phd-beverly-hills-ca/119623\">S.E. Specter\u003c/a>, a psychiatrist and nutrition scientist based in Beverly Hills who specializes in eating disorders, notes that there are only 145 published scientific articles on orthorexia. \"For anorexia nervosa, there are 16,064 published studies and for eating disorders in general, there are 41,258. So [orthorexia] doesn't stack up in terms of the knowledge base so far,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A 2018 \u003ca href=\"https://www.researchgate.net/publication/328844651_Definition_and_diagnostic_criteria_for_orthorexia_nervosa_a_narrative_review_of_the_literature\">review\u003c/a> of orthorexia studies published in the journal \u003cem>Eating and Weight Disorders\u003c/em> finds no common definition, standard diagnostic criteria, or reliable ways to measure orthorexia's psychological impact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Orthorexia is not listed specifically in the DSM — the \u003cem>Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders \u003c/em>— but that doesn't mean it's untreatable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I just think orthorexia is maybe a little bit too hard to pin down, or it's looked at as a piece of the other related disorders — the eating disorders, obsessive compulsive disorder, and general anxiety disorder as well,\" Specter says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To treat it, \"we have to look at the thought process and try to disentangle the beliefs that a person has. They become very entrenched,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a very kind of gradual process for ... many in terms of trying to back out of a need to always check to see that, you know, locks are locked or that a food is not going to be harmful to them — cause their skin to break out or increase their risk of cancer,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alex Everakes has been in treatment for two years. While he's still significantly underweight, he says he's happier and learning to see his diet a little differently.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everakes eats more freely on the weekends now and tries to add a new food every few days. He's made some friends who don't restrict their eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Everakes, taking control of his orthorexia is \"knowing that your world isn't going to come crashing down if you have like, a piece of pizza.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He's managed this by taking baby steps. Instead of going right for a slice of standard pizza, he started with cauliflower crust pizza. He ordered frozen yogurt before going for full-fat ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eating disorders can \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/02/28/698863824/how-eating-disorders-can-affect-anyone\">strike anyone\u003c/a>. Roughly 1 in 3 people struggling with eating disorders is male, according to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nationaleatingdisorders.org/learn/general-information/research-on-males\">National Eating Disorders Association\u003c/a>. And these disorders affect athletes at a higher rate than the rest of the population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you think you have orthorexia or any eating disorder, it's important to seek professional help and friends who support you, Everakes says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/10/07/766847274/when-efforts-to-eat-clean-become-an-unhealthy-obsession\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether it's gluten-free, dairy-free, raw food, or all-organic, many people these days are committed to so-called \"clean eating\" — the idea that choosing only whole foods in their natural state and avoiding processed ones can improve health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not necessarily a bad thing to eat this way, but sometimes these kinds of food preferences can begin to take over people's lives, making them fear social events where they won't be able to find the \"right\" foods. When a healthful eating pattern goes too far, it may turn into an eating disorder that scientists are just beginning to study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alex Everakes, 25, is a public relations account executive from Chicago. As a kid, he struggled with being overweight. In his teens and 20s, he tried to diet, and he gained and lost and regained about 100 pounds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When he moved to Los Angeles after college, he took his diet to a new level. He started working out twice a day. At one point, he ate just 10 foods — \"Spinach, chicken, egg whites, red peppers — because green peppers make you bloated — spaghetti squash, asparagus, salmon, berries, unsweetened almond milk, almond butter,\" Everakes says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He went from 250 pounds at his heaviest, down to 140. He posted pictures of his six-pack abs and his\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\"clean\" diet online and was praised for it. He felt virtuous, but at the same time, he was starving, tired and lonely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My life literally was modeled to put myself away from destruction of my fitness,\" Everakes says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He became afraid to eat certain foods. He worked at home to avoid office parties where he'd have to eat in front of others. He didn't go out or make friends because he didn't want to have to explain his diet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It turns out Everakes was struggling with something called orthorexia nervosa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Orthorexia is a fairly recent phenomenon. Dr. \u003ca href=\"http://www.orthorexia.com\">Steven Bratman\u003c/a>, an alternative medicine practitioner in the 1990s, first coined the term in an \u003ca href=\"https://www.orthorexia.com/original-orthorexia-essay/\">essay\u003c/a> in the nonscientific \u003cem>Yoga Journal\u003c/em> in 1997. Many of his patients eschewed traditional medicine and believed that the key to good health was simply eating the \"right\" foods. Some of them would ask him what foods they should cut out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134968\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/orthorexia-clean-eating-1_enl-ef6455f001273b6490ef00992dc0c71071b3977c-e1570463420973.jpg\" alt=\"Whether it's gluten or dairy, many people avoid certain types of foods. Sometimes food avoidance can turn into fear, obsession and even veer into an eating disorder that scientists are just beginning to study.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134968\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Whether it's gluten or dairy, many people avoid certain types of foods. Sometimes food avoidance can turn into fear, obsession and even veer into an eating disorder that scientists are just beginning to study. \u003ccite>(Meredith Rizzo/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"People would think they should cut out all dairy and they should cut out all lentils, all wheat ... And it dawned on me gradually that many of these patients, their primary problem was that they were ... far too strict with themselves,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So Bratman made up the name orthorexia,\u003cem> \u003c/em>borrowing\u003cem> ortho\u003c/em> from the Greek word meaning \"right\" and \u003cem>-orexia\u003c/em> meaning \"appetite.\" He added \u003cem>nervosa\u003c/em> as a reference to \u003cem>anorexia nervosa\u003c/em>, the well-known eating disorder which causes people to starve themselves to be thin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"From then on, whenever a patient would ask me what food to cut out, I would say, 'We need to work on your orthorexia.' This would often make them laugh and let them loosen up, and sometimes it helped people move from extremism to moderation,\" he recalls.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bratman had no idea that the concept of \"clean eating\"\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>would explode over the next two decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Where dieters once gobbled down no-sugar gelatin or fat-free shakes, now they might seek out organic kale and wild salmon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rise of celebrity diet gurus and glamorous food photos on social media reinforce the idea that eating only certain foods and avoiding others is a virtue — practically a religion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://sondrakronberg.com\">Sondra Kronberg\u003c/a>, founder and executive director of the Eating Disorder Treatment Collaborative outside New York City, has seen a lot of diet trends over the past 40 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So orthorexia is a reflection on a larger scale of the cultural perspective on 'eating cleanly,' eating ... healthfully, avoiding toxins — including foods that might have some 'super power,' \" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Kronberg and other nutritionists applaud efforts to eat healthfully.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>The problem comes, she says, when you are so focused on your diet that \"it begins to infringe on the quality of your life — your ability to be spontaneous and engage.\" That's when you should start to worry about an eating disorder, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In the case of orthorexia, it centers around eating 'cleanly' and purely, where the other eating disorders center around size and weight and a drive for thinness,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes these problems overlap, and some people who only eat \"clean\" foods miss critical nutrients from the foods they cut out or don't consume enough calories. \"It could become a health hazard and ultimately, it can be fatal,\" Kronberg says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134969\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/orthorexia-7_enl-be6a21f7656e19fa42295b2c277c1cfbc156e76e-e1570463492211.jpg\" alt=\"The rise of celebrity diet gurus posting food photos on social media has reinforced the idea that eating only certain foods is a virtue.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134969\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The rise of celebrity diet gurus posting food photos on social media has reinforced the idea that eating only certain foods is a virtue. \u003ccite>(Meredith Rizzo/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While people with these symptoms are showing up in clinics like Kronberg's, scientists don't agree on what orthorexia is.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dr. \u003ca href=\"https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/psychiatrists/se-specter-md-phd-beverly-hills-ca/119623\">S.E. Specter\u003c/a>, a psychiatrist and nutrition scientist based in Beverly Hills who specializes in eating disorders, notes that there are only 145 published scientific articles on orthorexia. \"For anorexia nervosa, there are 16,064 published studies and for eating disorders in general, there are 41,258. So [orthorexia] doesn't stack up in terms of the knowledge base so far,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A 2018 \u003ca href=\"https://www.researchgate.net/publication/328844651_Definition_and_diagnostic_criteria_for_orthorexia_nervosa_a_narrative_review_of_the_literature\">review\u003c/a> of orthorexia studies published in the journal \u003cem>Eating and Weight Disorders\u003c/em> finds no common definition, standard diagnostic criteria, or reliable ways to measure orthorexia's psychological impact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Orthorexia is not listed specifically in the DSM — the \u003cem>Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders \u003c/em>— but that doesn't mean it's untreatable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I just think orthorexia is maybe a little bit too hard to pin down, or it's looked at as a piece of the other related disorders — the eating disorders, obsessive compulsive disorder, and general anxiety disorder as well,\" Specter says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To treat it, \"we have to look at the thought process and try to disentangle the beliefs that a person has. They become very entrenched,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a very kind of gradual process for ... many in terms of trying to back out of a need to always check to see that, you know, locks are locked or that a food is not going to be harmful to them — cause their skin to break out or increase their risk of cancer,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alex Everakes has been in treatment for two years. While he's still significantly underweight, he says he's happier and learning to see his diet a little differently.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everakes eats more freely on the weekends now and tries to add a new food every few days. He's made some friends who don't restrict their eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Everakes, taking control of his orthorexia is \"knowing that your world isn't going to come crashing down if you have like, a piece of pizza.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He's managed this by taking baby steps. Instead of going right for a slice of standard pizza, he started with cauliflower crust pizza. He ordered frozen yogurt before going for full-fat ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eating disorders can \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/02/28/698863824/how-eating-disorders-can-affect-anyone\">strike anyone\u003c/a>. Roughly 1 in 3 people struggling with eating disorders is male, according to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nationaleatingdisorders.org/learn/general-information/research-on-males\">National Eating Disorders Association\u003c/a>. And these disorders affect athletes at a higher rate than the rest of the population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you think you have orthorexia or any eating disorder, it's important to seek professional help and friends who support you, Everakes says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/10/07/766847274/when-efforts-to-eat-clean-become-an-unhealthy-obsession\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "No Need To Cut Back On Red Meat? Controversial New 'Guidelines' Lead To Outrage",
"title": "No Need To Cut Back On Red Meat? Controversial New 'Guidelines' Lead To Outrage",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_133954' label='More on Processed Meats']\u003cbr>\nA new set of analyses published Monday in the \u003cem>Annals of Internal Medicine\u003c/em> challenges the widespread recommendations to cut back on red and processed meats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The prominent medical journal has also published a \u003ca href=\"https://annals.org/aim/fullarticle/2752328/unprocessed-red-meat-processed-meat-consumption-dietary-guideline-recommendations-from\">new recommendation\u003c/a> from a panel of scientists, many of whom are not nutrition experts: \"The panel suggests adults continue current processed meat consumption,\" according to the guideline paper. In other words: no need to cut back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scores of nutrition experts say this conclusion contradicts a large body of evidence, from decades of observational studies, that has found that people who consume less red and processed meats, over time, have lower rates of heart disease and death from certain cancers, including colorectal cancer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recommendations from the \u003ca href=\"https://www.heart.org/en/healthy-living/healthy-eating/eat-smart/nutrition-basics/aha-diet-and-lifestyle-recommendations\">American Heart Association\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"https://web.archive.org/web/20170611033849/https://www.cancer.org/latest-news/world-health-organization-says-processed-meat-causes-cancer.html\">American Cancer Society\u003c/a>, as well as the U.S. Dietary Guidelines, all call for limiting red meats and processed meats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I am outraged and bewildered,\" says nutrition scientist Christopher Gardner, a professor of medicine at Stanford University. \"This is perplexing, given the ... clear evidence for harm associated with high red meat intake,\" says Frank Hu, the chair of the Department of Nutrition at the Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gardner and Hu are among a group of scientists who signed a letter to the journal's editor requesting the papers be held pending further review. Others include \u003ca href=\"https://nutrition.tufts.edu/profile/faculty/dariush-mozaffarian\">Dariush Mozaffarian\u003c/a>, the dean of the Friedman School of Nutrition at Tufts University, as well as Eric Rimm and Dr. Walter Willett, also of Harvard's T.H. Chan School of Public Health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nutrition scientists point to research, such as this study \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25733454\">published in 2015\u003c/a>, that finds that people who have a pattern of eating that's lower in red and processed meats have a reduced risk of death from cardiovascular disease and some cancers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's a lot more agreement out there than people think,\" Gardner says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However, the authors of the new papers published in Annals say they're not convinced by the studies that link red and processed meats to higher health risks. They conclude that the existing guidelines from leading health groups to limit red and processed meats are \"weak recommendations\" that are based on \"low-certainty evidence.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, what explains this divide?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a nutshell, the authors of the new analyses have used an alternative approach to evaluate the evidence. They've used a system known as \u003ca href=\"https://ktdrr.org/products/update/v1n5/dijkers_grade_ktupdatev1n5.pdf\">GRADE\u003c/a>, which is a process to rate the quality of scientific evidence. Using this approach, a kind of study known as a randomized controlled trial — or RCT, for short - is considered high quality evidence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nutrition scientist Frank Hu of Harvard says the problem with GRADE is that it was mainly developed for evaluating evidence from drug trials. \"It's really problematic and inappropriate to use GRADE to evaluate nutrition studies,\" Hu says. Most of nutrition science is built on another type of study, observational studies. These are conducted by tracking the eating habits of people over many years. But here's the rub: The GRADE system considers these observational studies to be low-quality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our diets, however, are not like drugs. The impact of eating a meat-centric diet is tricky to measure. Unlike a pill — which can be measured against a placebo in a short-term trial — our diets are much more complicated. What we eat today may influence our health over decades. And, teasing out an independent effect is tougher, because our diets are varied and complex.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If a pill leads to an improvement over a placebo, scientists can conclude that the pill is efficacious. But if you try to use this same model with diet, you can't isolate the effects of say, just meat — or just processed meat — because we eat so many different things as part of our diets. So, therefore, critics say the drug evaluation model is not a good fit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So where does this leave us, the eaters who are trying to make good choices?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There may be a benefit [from] reducing your intake of red or processed meat, and people should know that,\" says Bradley Johnston, one of the authors of the new analyses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the other hand, \"there may not be a benefit at all,\" Johnston says. \"We're uncertain.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Johnston previously authored a study, also published in the \u003cem>Annals of Internal Medicine\u003c/em>, that \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/12/19/505867535/how-much-is-too-much-new-study-casts-doubts-on-sugar-guidelines\">challenged the quality of the evidence behind the recommendations to limit sugar\u003c/a>. That paper, published online in 2016, was funded by the International Life Sciences Institute, a nonprofit group funded by large food and beverage companies that has \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/16/health/ilsi-food-policy-india-brazil-china.html\">come under scrutiny\u003c/a> for its role in shaping food policy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I asked Johnston what kind of study it would take to provide compelling evidence that reducing red meat consumption can reduce health risks. \"It would take a lot of money ... and it should be based on randomized trials,\" Johnston says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this is completely impractical, says Harvard's Rimm. \"Can you imagine the cost if you had to ... give patients red meat almost every day for a decade and then convince the other group ... not to eat meat for a decade?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The editor of \u003cem>Annals of Internal Medicine\u003c/em>, \u003ca href=\"https://annals.org/aim/pages/biography\">Dr. Christine Laine\u003c/a>, says she agrees it would be tough to carry out such a study. \"We're not going to be able to do a randomized controlled trial that is going to definitely answer this question,\" Laine told us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But she defended the decision to publish the new analyses and recommendation, as well as the use of the GRADE evaluation system. She says the papers show that the quality of the evidence behind the current recommendations to cut down on red and process meats is not as strong as people may have been led to believe. \"We should just be transparent,\" Laine says. \"I think we should be honest with the public that we don't really know.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stanford's Gardner says his biggest concern is \"this will do a disservice to the public.\" He says that by offering up a new guideline, the new papers may confuse people. Harvard's Hu agrees. The publication \"gives an impression of a major scientific breakthrough, but this is clearly not the case.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hu and his colleagues says there is a consensus already: \"To improve both human health and environmental sustainability, it is important to adopt dietary patterns that are high in healthy plant-based foods and relatively low in red and processed meats.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/09/30/765722916/no-need-to-cut-back-on-red-meat-controversial-new-guidelines-lead-to-outrage\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A prominent medical journal has published a new recommendation from a group of scientists concluding there's no need to cut back on red and processed meats. This contradicts current guidelines.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nA new set of analyses published Monday in the \u003cem>Annals of Internal Medicine\u003c/em> challenges the widespread recommendations to cut back on red and processed meats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The prominent medical journal has also published a \u003ca href=\"https://annals.org/aim/fullarticle/2752328/unprocessed-red-meat-processed-meat-consumption-dietary-guideline-recommendations-from\">new recommendation\u003c/a> from a panel of scientists, many of whom are not nutrition experts: \"The panel suggests adults continue current processed meat consumption,\" according to the guideline paper. In other words: no need to cut back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scores of nutrition experts say this conclusion contradicts a large body of evidence, from decades of observational studies, that has found that people who consume less red and processed meats, over time, have lower rates of heart disease and death from certain cancers, including colorectal cancer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recommendations from the \u003ca href=\"https://www.heart.org/en/healthy-living/healthy-eating/eat-smart/nutrition-basics/aha-diet-and-lifestyle-recommendations\">American Heart Association\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"https://web.archive.org/web/20170611033849/https://www.cancer.org/latest-news/world-health-organization-says-processed-meat-causes-cancer.html\">American Cancer Society\u003c/a>, as well as the U.S. Dietary Guidelines, all call for limiting red meats and processed meats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I am outraged and bewildered,\" says nutrition scientist Christopher Gardner, a professor of medicine at Stanford University. \"This is perplexing, given the ... clear evidence for harm associated with high red meat intake,\" says Frank Hu, the chair of the Department of Nutrition at the Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gardner and Hu are among a group of scientists who signed a letter to the journal's editor requesting the papers be held pending further review. Others include \u003ca href=\"https://nutrition.tufts.edu/profile/faculty/dariush-mozaffarian\">Dariush Mozaffarian\u003c/a>, the dean of the Friedman School of Nutrition at Tufts University, as well as Eric Rimm and Dr. Walter Willett, also of Harvard's T.H. Chan School of Public Health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nutrition scientists point to research, such as this study \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25733454\">published in 2015\u003c/a>, that finds that people who have a pattern of eating that's lower in red and processed meats have a reduced risk of death from cardiovascular disease and some cancers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's a lot more agreement out there than people think,\" Gardner says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However, the authors of the new papers published in Annals say they're not convinced by the studies that link red and processed meats to higher health risks. They conclude that the existing guidelines from leading health groups to limit red and processed meats are \"weak recommendations\" that are based on \"low-certainty evidence.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, what explains this divide?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a nutshell, the authors of the new analyses have used an alternative approach to evaluate the evidence. They've used a system known as \u003ca href=\"https://ktdrr.org/products/update/v1n5/dijkers_grade_ktupdatev1n5.pdf\">GRADE\u003c/a>, which is a process to rate the quality of scientific evidence. Using this approach, a kind of study known as a randomized controlled trial — or RCT, for short - is considered high quality evidence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nutrition scientist Frank Hu of Harvard says the problem with GRADE is that it was mainly developed for evaluating evidence from drug trials. \"It's really problematic and inappropriate to use GRADE to evaluate nutrition studies,\" Hu says. Most of nutrition science is built on another type of study, observational studies. These are conducted by tracking the eating habits of people over many years. But here's the rub: The GRADE system considers these observational studies to be low-quality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our diets, however, are not like drugs. The impact of eating a meat-centric diet is tricky to measure. Unlike a pill — which can be measured against a placebo in a short-term trial — our diets are much more complicated. What we eat today may influence our health over decades. And, teasing out an independent effect is tougher, because our diets are varied and complex.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If a pill leads to an improvement over a placebo, scientists can conclude that the pill is efficacious. But if you try to use this same model with diet, you can't isolate the effects of say, just meat — or just processed meat — because we eat so many different things as part of our diets. So, therefore, critics say the drug evaluation model is not a good fit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So where does this leave us, the eaters who are trying to make good choices?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There may be a benefit [from] reducing your intake of red or processed meat, and people should know that,\" says Bradley Johnston, one of the authors of the new analyses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the other hand, \"there may not be a benefit at all,\" Johnston says. \"We're uncertain.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Johnston previously authored a study, also published in the \u003cem>Annals of Internal Medicine\u003c/em>, that \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/12/19/505867535/how-much-is-too-much-new-study-casts-doubts-on-sugar-guidelines\">challenged the quality of the evidence behind the recommendations to limit sugar\u003c/a>. That paper, published online in 2016, was funded by the International Life Sciences Institute, a nonprofit group funded by large food and beverage companies that has \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/16/health/ilsi-food-policy-india-brazil-china.html\">come under scrutiny\u003c/a> for its role in shaping food policy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I asked Johnston what kind of study it would take to provide compelling evidence that reducing red meat consumption can reduce health risks. \"It would take a lot of money ... and it should be based on randomized trials,\" Johnston says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this is completely impractical, says Harvard's Rimm. \"Can you imagine the cost if you had to ... give patients red meat almost every day for a decade and then convince the other group ... not to eat meat for a decade?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The editor of \u003cem>Annals of Internal Medicine\u003c/em>, \u003ca href=\"https://annals.org/aim/pages/biography\">Dr. Christine Laine\u003c/a>, says she agrees it would be tough to carry out such a study. \"We're not going to be able to do a randomized controlled trial that is going to definitely answer this question,\" Laine told us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But she defended the decision to publish the new analyses and recommendation, as well as the use of the GRADE evaluation system. She says the papers show that the quality of the evidence behind the current recommendations to cut down on red and process meats is not as strong as people may have been led to believe. \"We should just be transparent,\" Laine says. \"I think we should be honest with the public that we don't really know.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stanford's Gardner says his biggest concern is \"this will do a disservice to the public.\" He says that by offering up a new guideline, the new papers may confuse people. Harvard's Hu agrees. The publication \"gives an impression of a major scientific breakthrough, but this is clearly not the case.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hu and his colleagues says there is a consensus already: \"To improve both human health and environmental sustainability, it is important to adopt dietary patterns that are high in healthy plant-based foods and relatively low in red and processed meats.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/09/30/765722916/no-need-to-cut-back-on-red-meat-controversial-new-guidelines-lead-to-outrage\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Andrew Zimmern, Tanya Holland and More Gather to Discuss Change in the Culinary Industry",
"title": "Andrew Zimmern, Tanya Holland and More Gather to Discuss Change in the Culinary Industry",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_132814,bayareabites_125020' target=_blank label='More on Brown Sugar Kitchen']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is power.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was how Maryam Ahmed, the Culinary Institute of America’s Director of Public Programs, opened “\u003ca href=\"https://www.ciaatcopia.com/conversations-at-copia/\">Conversations at Copia\u003c/a>,” the live talk series hosted by James Beard Award winner \u003ca href=\"https://andrewzimmern.com/\">Andrew Zimmern\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Held at downtown Napa’s Culinary Institute of America (CIA) at Copia, September 7th’s discussion entitled “Culture & Cuisine” included panelists Rick Bayless of \u003ca href=\"https://www.rickbayless.com/restaurants/frontera-grill/\">Frontera Grill\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.brownsugarkitchen.com/\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/a>’s Tayna Holland, \u003ca href=\"https://lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a>'s program manager Emiliana Puyana, and “The Cooking Gene” author \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/\">Michael Twitty\u003c/a>. Over roughly 90 minutes, each esteemed food expert attempted to answer the question “What does it mean to be authentic and who gets to cook what?” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About halfway through, Zimmern repeated those opening words. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is power. And history tells us that those who have that power want to keep it.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134842\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston.jpg\" alt='\"Conversations at Copia\" panelists (left to right) Tanya Holland, Rick Bayless, Michael Twitty, and Emiliana Puyana with host Andrew Zimmern (center).' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134842\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Conversations at Copia\" panelists (left to right) Tanya Holland, Rick Bayless, Michael Twitty, and Emiliana Puyana with host Andrew Zimmern (center). \u003ccite>(Emily Johnston)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>White males, no surprise there, have predominantly held that power—specifically the white males cooking French and Italian cuisine. The cuisine that’s the most revered, the “most respected, elevated of cuisines,” as Holland put it. “You’re thought of as an expert if you can cook those cuisines.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it doesn’t take much to look back at America’s culinary history and see that people of color were predominantly the ones in the kitchen. If one looked even a bit further, those people were revered for their unique cooking styles just as much as the white men cooking French and Italian are today.\u003cbr>\n[pullquote size='medium' align='left' citation='Andrew Zimmern']'Food is power. And history tells us that those who have that power want to keep it.'[/pullquote]\u003cbr>\n“People, going back hundreds of years, have always created a mythology around who is cooking our food,” said Zimmern. “But for the vast majority of restaurants in this nation, the food we consume is done by people of color. A lot of that is based on maintaining the current power structure.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chefs on CIA’s stage built their culinary careers by cooking a cuisine that doesn’t tell the same story as everyone else. Their journey hasn’t been pretty; there’s been no “baton being passed,” as Holland put it, to lead them to culinary glory. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134845\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel.jpg\" alt='Andrew Zimmern moderated the first live talk series \"Conversations at Copia\" on September 7, 2019.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134845\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrew Zimmern moderated the first live talk series \"Conversations at Copia\" on September 7, 2019. \u003ccite>(Emily Johnston)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I had not seen a lot of people who looked like me cook the food I wanted, where the food, room, and service was elevated,” said Holland.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_120369,bayareabites_94637' target=_blank label='More from Michael Twitty']\u003cbr>\nHolland has elevated the cuisine she knows and loves—specifically modern soul—but it hasn’t been easy. She made a home for her restaurant, Brown Sugar Kitchen, in Oakland in part because it was the only neighborhood where landlords would rent to her. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It didn’t matter that she had 20 years of experience, she explained to the packed crowd; it only seemed to matter that she didn’t have restaurant experience—or that’s what she was told. Today, Holland still isn’t where she wants to be but she strives to get there so that the next generation can look to her for guidance. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Holland, Twitty has an uphill battle ahead to reach, what he says, his goal to become the “first black colonial antebellum masterchef since slavery.” Why? A black child born in America won’t have “the same resources passed down to [them as white people]. And even if you do come from money, your dollar is not worth that of a white man.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In “\u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/young-guns-rising-stars/2019/7/11/20688135/american-culinary-schools-problem-french-curriculum\">The (Mis)education of America’s culinary schools\u003c/a>,” writer Korsha Wilson asks why culinary schools like the CIA aren’t spending more time diving into regional cuisines like they do the traditional ones. “If you think about what it takes to make a mole sauce, or what it takes to make gumbo, it’s still the same level of time commitment and technique and expertise [as French and Italian cuisine], so why isn’t it valued in the same way?” asked Holland.\u003cbr>\n[aside tag='la-cocina' label='More About La Cocina' num='2' target=_blank align='left']\u003cbr>\nOutside of the kitchen, equilibrium in the food world can only happen when our society stops assigning a certain price tag or level of service with only one type of cuisine but not another. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is unfairly priced in America,” adds Zimmern. “and it’s designed to maintain an underclass.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elevated cuisine can’t just have a decorated or celebrated chef cooking it; the diner also needs to accept the lengthy food journey attached with each pretty plate. “For a strawberry to end up on your plate, it’s passed through many hands,” Puyana reminded everyone. “We need to accept the fact that food needs to cost more. And when we’re paying more for a pretty plate, we aren’t just paying for the design but paying for the labor that brought it to you.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134844\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless.jpg\" alt=\"Andrew Zimmern listens on as Rick Bayless answers a question from the crowd.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134844\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrew Zimmern listens on as Rick Bayless answers a question from the crowd. \u003ccite>(Emily Johnston)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Food is powerful, yes. But it’s only as powerful as the diners, cooking community, food media, and chefs deems worthy. Part of this series isn’t just about spotlighting the work needed to find harmony within the kitchen, but also educating guests about the inequality in today’s food history. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once diners accept that all cuisine is worthy of elevating, food equilibrium will come. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>--- \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next “\u003ca href=\"https://www.ciaatcopia.com/conversations-at-copia/\">Conversations at Copia\u003c/a>” will be held on October 26 featuring Daniel Giusti of Brigaid, Matt Jozwiak from Rethink Food NYC, and Michel Nischan from Wholesome Wave. The final event in the series will be on December 7 around the topic “Setting the Equity Table.” \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is power.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was how Maryam Ahmed, the Culinary Institute of America’s Director of Public Programs, opened “\u003ca href=\"https://www.ciaatcopia.com/conversations-at-copia/\">Conversations at Copia\u003c/a>,” the live talk series hosted by James Beard Award winner \u003ca href=\"https://andrewzimmern.com/\">Andrew Zimmern\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Held at downtown Napa’s Culinary Institute of America (CIA) at Copia, September 7th’s discussion entitled “Culture & Cuisine” included panelists Rick Bayless of \u003ca href=\"https://www.rickbayless.com/restaurants/frontera-grill/\">Frontera Grill\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.brownsugarkitchen.com/\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/a>’s Tayna Holland, \u003ca href=\"https://lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a>'s program manager Emiliana Puyana, and “The Cooking Gene” author \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/\">Michael Twitty\u003c/a>. Over roughly 90 minutes, each esteemed food expert attempted to answer the question “What does it mean to be authentic and who gets to cook what?” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About halfway through, Zimmern repeated those opening words. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is power. And history tells us that those who have that power want to keep it.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134842\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston.jpg\" alt='\"Conversations at Copia\" panelists (left to right) Tanya Holland, Rick Bayless, Michael Twitty, and Emiliana Puyana with host Andrew Zimmern (center).' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134842\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Conversations at Copia\" panelists (left to right) Tanya Holland, Rick Bayless, Michael Twitty, and Emiliana Puyana with host Andrew Zimmern (center). \u003ccite>(Emily Johnston)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>White males, no surprise there, have predominantly held that power—specifically the white males cooking French and Italian cuisine. The cuisine that’s the most revered, the “most respected, elevated of cuisines,” as Holland put it. “You’re thought of as an expert if you can cook those cuisines.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it doesn’t take much to look back at America’s culinary history and see that people of color were predominantly the ones in the kitchen. If one looked even a bit further, those people were revered for their unique cooking styles just as much as the white men cooking French and Italian are today.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n“People, going back hundreds of years, have always created a mythology around who is cooking our food,” said Zimmern. “But for the vast majority of restaurants in this nation, the food we consume is done by people of color. A lot of that is based on maintaining the current power structure.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chefs on CIA’s stage built their culinary careers by cooking a cuisine that doesn’t tell the same story as everyone else. Their journey hasn’t been pretty; there’s been no “baton being passed,” as Holland put it, to lead them to culinary glory. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134845\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel.jpg\" alt='Andrew Zimmern moderated the first live talk series \"Conversations at Copia\" on September 7, 2019.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134845\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrew Zimmern moderated the first live talk series \"Conversations at Copia\" on September 7, 2019. \u003ccite>(Emily Johnston)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I had not seen a lot of people who looked like me cook the food I wanted, where the food, room, and service was elevated,” said Holland.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nHolland has elevated the cuisine she knows and loves—specifically modern soul—but it hasn’t been easy. She made a home for her restaurant, Brown Sugar Kitchen, in Oakland in part because it was the only neighborhood where landlords would rent to her. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It didn’t matter that she had 20 years of experience, she explained to the packed crowd; it only seemed to matter that she didn’t have restaurant experience—or that’s what she was told. Today, Holland still isn’t where she wants to be but she strives to get there so that the next generation can look to her for guidance. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Holland, Twitty has an uphill battle ahead to reach, what he says, his goal to become the “first black colonial antebellum masterchef since slavery.” Why? A black child born in America won’t have “the same resources passed down to [them as white people]. And even if you do come from money, your dollar is not worth that of a white man.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In “\u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/young-guns-rising-stars/2019/7/11/20688135/american-culinary-schools-problem-french-curriculum\">The (Mis)education of America’s culinary schools\u003c/a>,” writer Korsha Wilson asks why culinary schools like the CIA aren’t spending more time diving into regional cuisines like they do the traditional ones. “If you think about what it takes to make a mole sauce, or what it takes to make gumbo, it’s still the same level of time commitment and technique and expertise [as French and Italian cuisine], so why isn’t it valued in the same way?” asked Holland.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nOutside of the kitchen, equilibrium in the food world can only happen when our society stops assigning a certain price tag or level of service with only one type of cuisine but not another. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is unfairly priced in America,” adds Zimmern. “and it’s designed to maintain an underclass.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elevated cuisine can’t just have a decorated or celebrated chef cooking it; the diner also needs to accept the lengthy food journey attached with each pretty plate. “For a strawberry to end up on your plate, it’s passed through many hands,” Puyana reminded everyone. “We need to accept the fact that food needs to cost more. And when we’re paying more for a pretty plate, we aren’t just paying for the design but paying for the labor that brought it to you.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134844\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless.jpg\" alt=\"Andrew Zimmern listens on as Rick Bayless answers a question from the crowd.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134844\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrew Zimmern listens on as Rick Bayless answers a question from the crowd. \u003ccite>(Emily Johnston)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Food is powerful, yes. But it’s only as powerful as the diners, cooking community, food media, and chefs deems worthy. Part of this series isn’t just about spotlighting the work needed to find harmony within the kitchen, but also educating guests about the inequality in today’s food history. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once diners accept that all cuisine is worthy of elevating, food equilibrium will come. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>--- \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next “\u003ca href=\"https://www.ciaatcopia.com/conversations-at-copia/\">Conversations at Copia\u003c/a>” will be held on October 26 featuring Daniel Giusti of Brigaid, Matt Jozwiak from Rethink Food NYC, and Michel Nischan from Wholesome Wave. The final event in the series will be on December 7 around the topic “Setting the Equity Table.” \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Are These the Best Dumpling Spots in the Bay Area?",
"title": "Are These the Best Dumpling Spots in the Bay Area?",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>[aside tag='dumplings' label='More Dumplings' num='1' target=_blank]\u003cbr>\nDumplings! We know them, we love them and we all have our favorite spots for them. What constitutes a dumpling, you ask?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dumpling (n.)\u003c/strong>: \u003cem>a rounded mass of steamed and seasoned dough, often served in soup or with stewed meat\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many cultures have their own types of dumplings. According to Wikipedia, even ravioli and tortellini fit the basic definition of a dumpling — David Chang even covered this revelation in his show, \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2018/2/23/17021424/ugly-delicious-stuffed-recap-season-1-episode-8\">\u003ci>Ugly Delicious\u003c/i>\u003c/a>!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://twitter.com/davidchang/status/970688482342592512?lang=en\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Bay Area Bites tackled the topic of dumplings in the Bay Area before, it was mostly the Chinese version of them. We tried them in the East Bay (\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/111374/bay-area-bites-guide-to-5-favorite-dumplings-in-oakland-and-berkeley\">Oakland and Berkeley\u003c/a>), in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/108972/bay-area-bites-guide-to-5-great-dumpling-spots-in-san-francisco\">San Francisco\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/106934/bay-area-bites-guide-to-5-favorite-dim-sum-restaurants-south-of-san-francisco\">south of San Francisco\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’ve even shown you how to make them at home — \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/10798/pork-and-shrimp-dumplings-jiao-zi\">this recipe\u003c/a> is pretty timeless and is great eaten by itself or \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/132285/at-chinese-new-year-every-family-has-a-tradition\">in hot pot\u003c/a>. And yes, \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/KQEDcheckplease/photos/a.10150428158745232/10162484492970232/?type=3&theater\">as many of you stated\u003c/a>, mom’s homemade dumplings will always be the best, but when you’re far from home or there are no ingredients on hand to make some, it’s good to have a place in your back pocket.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We recently asked you, the KQED community, to share their favorite dumpling spots, and we’ve compiled the submissions into this handy list for you! Most of the comments suggested Chinese restaurants, but shout-out to the Pushkin and Mama Papa Lithuanian lovers out there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As always, our guides are by no means exhaustive, so, if we’re missing a dumpling eatery that people should try, let us know on \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/KQEDcheckplease/\">Facebook\u003c/a>\u003c/b>, \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/KQEDcheckplease\">Twitter\u003c/a>\u003c/b> or \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kqedbayareabites/\">Instagram\u003c/a>\u003c/b>.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>San Francisco\u003c/h2>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://chinalivesf.com/\">China Live\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://cityviewdimsum.com/\">City View\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/ton-kiang-san-francisco\">Ton Kiang\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Hang-Ah-Tea-Room-223720221142534/\">Hang Ah Tearoom\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://dragonbeaux.com/\">Dragon Beaux\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/dumpling-specialist-san-francisco-2\">Dumpling Specialist\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.shanghaidumplingkingsf.com/\">Shanghai Dumpling King\u003c/a> \u003cb>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/1213/check-please-bay-area-season-4-episode-2-402\">Watch the Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/a>)\u003c/b>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/shanghai-house-san-francisco\">Shanghai House\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.maklichinese.com/\">Makli\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kingofchinesedumpling.com/english/contact.htm\">Kingdom of Dumpling\u003c/a> \u003cb>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/17480/check-please-bay-area-reviews-backdoor-bistro-wine-bar-kingdom-of-dumpling-john-ash-co\">Watch the Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/a>)\u003c/b>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/dumpling-house-san-francisco?osq=dumpling+house\">Dumpling House\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dumpling-kitchen.com/\">Dumpling Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://harborviewsf.com/\">Harborview Restaurant & Bar\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/shandong-deluxe-san-francisco\">Shandong Deluxe\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/good-luck-dim-sum-san-francisco\">Good Luck Dim Sum\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Good-Mong-Kok-Bakery/107194425985610\">Good Mong Kok Bakery\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.orderyuanbaojiaozi.com/\">Yuanbao Jiaozi\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.mamajissf.com/\">Mama Ji’s\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://shenhua.co/\">Shen Hua\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.shangrilalosgatos.com/\">Shangri-La\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.redjaderestaurant.com/mobile.html\">Red Jade\u003c/a> \u003cb>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/1347/red-jade-reviews\">Read the Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/a>)\u003c/b>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/yummy-dumpling-san-francisco\">Yummy Dumpling\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.pushkinsf.com/\">Pushkin\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/china-north-dumpling-san-francisco\">China North Dumpling King\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yanksing.com/\">Yank Sing\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/house-of-pancakes-san-francisco\">House of Pancakes\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/dumpling-alley-san-francisco\">Dumpling Alley\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.chilihousesf.com/\">Chili House\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://henryshunan.com/\">Henry’s Hunan\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.dumplingtimesf.com/\">Dumpling Time\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.zandyrestaurant.com/\">Z & Y Restaurant\u003c/a> \u003cb>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/20142/check-please-bay-area-reviews-z-y-restaurant-pausa-souley-vegan\">Watch the Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/a>)\u003c/b>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/xiao-long-bao-san-francisco\">Xiao Long Bao\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>East Bay\u003c/h2>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.peonyseafood.com/\">Peony Seafood Restaurant\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://shandongoakland.com/\">Shandong\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oramasamadumplings/?hl=en\">Oramasama\u003c/a> (Pop-up)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.greatchinaberkeley.com/\">Great China\u003c/a> (Berkeley)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://sichuanhouse.squarespace.com/\">Sichuan House\u003c/a> (Walnut Creek)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/New-Dumpling/613245789150332\">New Dumpling\u003c/a> (El Cerrito)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://hkeo.us/\">Hong Kong East Ocean\u003c/a> (Emeryville)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.goodtoeatdumplings.com/about-us\">Good To Eat Dumplings\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://eastoceanseafoodrestaurant.com/\">East Ocean Seafood Restaurant\u003c/a> (Alameda)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://fremontbingsdumplings.weebly.com/\">Bing’s Dumpling\u003c/a> (Fremont)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yinyinlivermore.com/\">The Yin Yin\u003c/a> (Livermore)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/shanghai-bistro-newark\">Shanghai Bistro\u003c/a> (Newark)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/din-ding-dumpling-house-fremont-4\">Din Ding Dumpling\u003c/a> House (Union City)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://shanghaidumplinghouse.business.site/\">Shanghai Dumpling House\u003c/a> (Pleasanton)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.fullhousechinesefremont.com/\">Full House Dumpling\u003c/a> (Fremont)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Chinese-Restaurant/Qi-Dumpling-Lounge-113775862461728/\">Qi Dumpling Lounge\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/house-of-dumplings-union-city\">House of Dumplings\u003c/a> (Union City)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.mamapapalithuania.com/\">Mama Papa Lithuania\u003c/a> (Alameda) \u003cb>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/18127/check-please-bay-area-season-12-reviews-miss-ollies-mama-papa-lithuania-restaurant-bar-crudo\">Watch the Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/a>)\u003c/b>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>South Bay/Peninsula\u003c/h2>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.dumplinggarden.com/contact/\">Dumpling Garden\u003c/a> (Mountain View)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://dumplingempire.localon.com/\">Dumpling Empire\u003c/a> (South San Francisco)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.dumplingcityca.com/\">Dumpling City\u003c/a> (Palo Alto)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.cookingpapa.us/\">Cooking Papa\u003c/a> (Foster City, Mountain View, Santa Clara)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/xlb-kitchen-cupertino-3\">XLB Kitchen\u003c/a> (Cupertino)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/panda-dumpling-san-carlos\">Panda Dumpling\u003c/a> (San Carlos)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/joy-restaurant-foster-city-3\">Joy Restaurant\u003c/a> (Foster City)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.dumplingdepot.com/\">Dumpling Depot\u003c/a> (Sunnyvale)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tastyplacemillbrae.com/\">Tasty Place\u003c/a> (Millbrae)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/red-circle-dumplings-san-bruno\">Red Circle Dumpling\u003c/a> (San Bruno)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://townofdumpling.com/\">Town of Dumpling\u003c/a> (San Mateo)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/shanghai-dumpling-shop-millbrae\">Shanghai Dumpling Shop\u003c/a> (Millbrae)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://idumplingredwood.com/\">iDumpling\u003c/a> (Redwood City)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/oriental-garden-campbell\">Oriental Garden\u003c/a> (Campbell)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/tong-dumpling-cupertino\">Tong Dumpling\u003c/a> (Cupertino)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://dintaifungusa.com/\">Din Tai Fung\u003c/a> (Santa Clara)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/fullsteamdumpling/\">Full Steam Dumpling\u003c/a> (Santa Cruz)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/dim-sum-king-sunnyvale\">Dim Sum King\u003c/a> (Sunnyvale)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.grandpalaceseafoodrestaurant.com/\">Grand Palace\u003c/a> (South SF)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>North Bay\u003c/h2>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.harmonyrestaurantgroup.com/\">Harmony Restaurant\u003c/a> (Mill Valley)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nDumplings! We know them, we love them and we all have our favorite spots for them. What constitutes a dumpling, you ask?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dumpling (n.)\u003c/strong>: \u003cem>a rounded mass of steamed and seasoned dough, often served in soup or with stewed meat\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many cultures have their own types of dumplings. According to Wikipedia, even ravioli and tortellini fit the basic definition of a dumpling — David Chang even covered this revelation in his show, \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2018/2/23/17021424/ugly-delicious-stuffed-recap-season-1-episode-8\">\u003ci>Ugly Delicious\u003c/i>\u003c/a>!\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\n\u003cp>When Bay Area Bites tackled the topic of dumplings in the Bay Area before, it was mostly the Chinese version of them. We tried them in the East Bay (\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/111374/bay-area-bites-guide-to-5-favorite-dumplings-in-oakland-and-berkeley\">Oakland and Berkeley\u003c/a>), in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/108972/bay-area-bites-guide-to-5-great-dumpling-spots-in-san-francisco\">San Francisco\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/106934/bay-area-bites-guide-to-5-favorite-dim-sum-restaurants-south-of-san-francisco\">south of San Francisco\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’ve even shown you how to make them at home — \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/10798/pork-and-shrimp-dumplings-jiao-zi\">this recipe\u003c/a> is pretty timeless and is great eaten by itself or \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/132285/at-chinese-new-year-every-family-has-a-tradition\">in hot pot\u003c/a>. And yes, \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/KQEDcheckplease/photos/a.10150428158745232/10162484492970232/?type=3&theater\">as many of you stated\u003c/a>, mom’s homemade dumplings will always be the best, but when you’re far from home or there are no ingredients on hand to make some, it’s good to have a place in your back pocket.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We recently asked you, the KQED community, to share their favorite dumpling spots, and we’ve compiled the submissions into this handy list for you! Most of the comments suggested Chinese restaurants, but shout-out to the Pushkin and Mama Papa Lithuanian lovers out there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As always, our guides are by no means exhaustive, so, if we’re missing a dumpling eatery that people should try, let us know on \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/KQEDcheckplease/\">Facebook\u003c/a>\u003c/b>, \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/KQEDcheckplease\">Twitter\u003c/a>\u003c/b> or \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kqedbayareabites/\">Instagram\u003c/a>\u003c/b>.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>San Francisco\u003c/h2>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://chinalivesf.com/\">China Live\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://cityviewdimsum.com/\">City View\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/ton-kiang-san-francisco\">Ton Kiang\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Hang-Ah-Tea-Room-223720221142534/\">Hang Ah Tearoom\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://dragonbeaux.com/\">Dragon Beaux\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/dumpling-specialist-san-francisco-2\">Dumpling Specialist\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.shanghaidumplingkingsf.com/\">Shanghai Dumpling King\u003c/a> \u003cb>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/1213/check-please-bay-area-season-4-episode-2-402\">Watch the Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/a>)\u003c/b>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/shanghai-house-san-francisco\">Shanghai House\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.maklichinese.com/\">Makli\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kingofchinesedumpling.com/english/contact.htm\">Kingdom of Dumpling\u003c/a> \u003cb>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/17480/check-please-bay-area-reviews-backdoor-bistro-wine-bar-kingdom-of-dumpling-john-ash-co\">Watch the Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/a>)\u003c/b>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/dumpling-house-san-francisco?osq=dumpling+house\">Dumpling House\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dumpling-kitchen.com/\">Dumpling Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://harborviewsf.com/\">Harborview Restaurant & Bar\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/shandong-deluxe-san-francisco\">Shandong Deluxe\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/good-luck-dim-sum-san-francisco\">Good Luck Dim Sum\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Good-Mong-Kok-Bakery/107194425985610\">Good Mong Kok Bakery\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.orderyuanbaojiaozi.com/\">Yuanbao Jiaozi\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.mamajissf.com/\">Mama Ji’s\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://shenhua.co/\">Shen Hua\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.shangrilalosgatos.com/\">Shangri-La\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.redjaderestaurant.com/mobile.html\">Red Jade\u003c/a> \u003cb>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/1347/red-jade-reviews\">Read the Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/a>)\u003c/b>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/yummy-dumpling-san-francisco\">Yummy Dumpling\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.pushkinsf.com/\">Pushkin\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/china-north-dumpling-san-francisco\">China North Dumpling King\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yanksing.com/\">Yank Sing\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/house-of-pancakes-san-francisco\">House of Pancakes\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/dumpling-alley-san-francisco\">Dumpling Alley\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.chilihousesf.com/\">Chili House\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://henryshunan.com/\">Henry’s Hunan\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.dumplingtimesf.com/\">Dumpling Time\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.zandyrestaurant.com/\">Z & Y Restaurant\u003c/a> \u003cb>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/20142/check-please-bay-area-reviews-z-y-restaurant-pausa-souley-vegan\">Watch the Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/a>)\u003c/b>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/xiao-long-bao-san-francisco\">Xiao Long Bao\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>East Bay\u003c/h2>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.peonyseafood.com/\">Peony Seafood Restaurant\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://shandongoakland.com/\">Shandong\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oramasamadumplings/?hl=en\">Oramasama\u003c/a> (Pop-up)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.greatchinaberkeley.com/\">Great China\u003c/a> (Berkeley)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://sichuanhouse.squarespace.com/\">Sichuan House\u003c/a> (Walnut Creek)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/New-Dumpling/613245789150332\">New Dumpling\u003c/a> (El Cerrito)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://hkeo.us/\">Hong Kong East Ocean\u003c/a> (Emeryville)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.goodtoeatdumplings.com/about-us\">Good To Eat Dumplings\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://eastoceanseafoodrestaurant.com/\">East Ocean Seafood Restaurant\u003c/a> (Alameda)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://fremontbingsdumplings.weebly.com/\">Bing’s Dumpling\u003c/a> (Fremont)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yinyinlivermore.com/\">The Yin Yin\u003c/a> (Livermore)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/shanghai-bistro-newark\">Shanghai Bistro\u003c/a> (Newark)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/din-ding-dumpling-house-fremont-4\">Din Ding Dumpling\u003c/a> House (Union City)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://shanghaidumplinghouse.business.site/\">Shanghai Dumpling House\u003c/a> (Pleasanton)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.fullhousechinesefremont.com/\">Full House Dumpling\u003c/a> (Fremont)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Chinese-Restaurant/Qi-Dumpling-Lounge-113775862461728/\">Qi Dumpling Lounge\u003c/a> (Oakland)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/house-of-dumplings-union-city\">House of Dumplings\u003c/a> (Union City)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.mamapapalithuania.com/\">Mama Papa Lithuania\u003c/a> (Alameda) \u003cb>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/18127/check-please-bay-area-season-12-reviews-miss-ollies-mama-papa-lithuania-restaurant-bar-crudo\">Watch the Check, Please! Bay Area review\u003c/a>)\u003c/b>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>South Bay/Peninsula\u003c/h2>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.dumplinggarden.com/contact/\">Dumpling Garden\u003c/a> (Mountain View)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://dumplingempire.localon.com/\">Dumpling Empire\u003c/a> (South San Francisco)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.dumplingcityca.com/\">Dumpling City\u003c/a> (Palo Alto)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.cookingpapa.us/\">Cooking Papa\u003c/a> (Foster City, Mountain View, Santa Clara)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/xlb-kitchen-cupertino-3\">XLB Kitchen\u003c/a> (Cupertino)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/panda-dumpling-san-carlos\">Panda Dumpling\u003c/a> (San Carlos)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/joy-restaurant-foster-city-3\">Joy Restaurant\u003c/a> (Foster City)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.dumplingdepot.com/\">Dumpling Depot\u003c/a> (Sunnyvale)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tastyplacemillbrae.com/\">Tasty Place\u003c/a> (Millbrae)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/red-circle-dumplings-san-bruno\">Red Circle Dumpling\u003c/a> (San Bruno)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://townofdumpling.com/\">Town of Dumpling\u003c/a> (San Mateo)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/shanghai-dumpling-shop-millbrae\">Shanghai Dumpling Shop\u003c/a> (Millbrae)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://idumplingredwood.com/\">iDumpling\u003c/a> (Redwood City)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/oriental-garden-campbell\">Oriental Garden\u003c/a> (Campbell)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/tong-dumpling-cupertino\">Tong Dumpling\u003c/a> (Cupertino)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://dintaifungusa.com/\">Din Tai Fung\u003c/a> (Santa Clara)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/fullsteamdumpling/\">Full Steam Dumpling\u003c/a> (Santa Cruz)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/dim-sum-king-sunnyvale\">Dim Sum King\u003c/a> (Sunnyvale)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.grandpalaceseafoodrestaurant.com/\">Grand Palace\u003c/a> (South SF)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>North Bay\u003c/h2>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.harmonyrestaurantgroup.com/\">Harmony Restaurant\u003c/a> (Mill Valley)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "5 Restaurants Near SFO Worth Landing At",
"title": "5 Restaurants Near SFO Worth Landing At",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>[aside postID='news_11773215,arts_13860218' label='More News About SFO' target=_]\u003cbr>\nSlowly but surely, the San Francisco International Airport (SFO) dining scene’s improvement is making the airport a slightly less frustrating experience. With recent openings from current and former local favorites like the Manufactory Food Hall, 1300 on Fillmore (which is no longer on Fillmore) and Farmer Brown (the SF sibling is closed), it’s actually possible to have a legitimately good meal past security.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, it’s still airport dining, which comes with the background soundtrack of “white courtesy telephone” requests and angry passengers screaming at gate agents (and don’t forget the inflated prices). Fortunately for those coming and going from SFO, the surrounding area is filled with outstanding dining choices of all price points and cuisines. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the holiday travel blitz soon to start and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11773215/hundreds-of-flight-delays-and-cancellations-at-sfo-heres-what-to-expect\">the current runway construction causing hundreds of delays and cancellations daily\u003c/a>, now is the time to have a great meal near SFO to take the edge off catching a flight—or give you an incentive to sit through 101 traffic when your roommate asks for a ride.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Bertolucci’s\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/ubRUgRHn5uWLPjQw8\">421 Cypress Ave.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSouth San Francisco\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134778\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci.jpg\" alt=\"The legendary Bertolucci’s just off 101 in South San Francisco has been around since 1929 and still sees several hundred diners on any given night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134778\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The legendary Bertolucci’s just off 101 in South San Francisco has been around since 1929 and still sees several hundred diners on any given night. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Only a handful of restaurants in the Bay Area can remember when Herbert Hoover was elected over Al Smith. South San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"http://sodinisbertoluccis.com/\">beloved classic Italian destination\u003c/a> is one of them.\u003cbr>\nSince 1928, Peninsula diners have come to this \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/613/sodinis-bertoluccis-ristorante-reviews\">Check, Please! Bay Area-approved\u003c/a> venerable address for tried-and-true Italian favorites with a slight Tuscan emphasis, which reflects where the Bertolucci family is originally from. Since 2005, the restaurant has been owned by Peter Sodini (the founder of North Beach’s equally beloved Golden Boy Pizza) after the Bertoluccis retired and sold the establishment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertoluccis-picatta.jpg\" alt=\"Tried-and-true classic Italian standards like salmon picatta are nicely prepared by the Bertolucci’s kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134780\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertoluccis-picatta.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertoluccis-picatta-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertoluccis-picatta-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertoluccis-picatta-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertoluccis-picatta-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertoluccis-picatta-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tried-and-true classic Italian standards like salmon picatta are nicely prepared by the Bertolucci’s kitchen. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That connection would explain why Golden Boy pizza is available on the menu, but the rest of what the kitchen produces probably looks much like it did 90 years ago but is far from tired: osso buco, veal Milanese, linguine con vongole, lasagna. Along with the complimentary, generous bread platter of cheese pizza-like focaccia hunks and sourdough slices, most tables start with a Caesar salad that prominently displays tiny anchovy filets draped on top. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pastas are split between customizable pick-a-style and pick-a-sauce format, or traditional favorites like creamy tortellini Carbonara. For secondi, if you’re a first-timer, it’s all about trying the hardly innovative but perfectly done picatta sauce with salmon, veal or chicken. The silky mashed potatoes with it are particularly special and warrant your own trip. To conclude, biscotti, cannoli and silky chocolate praline (like a chocolate mousse torte) are must-orders, meaning that some additional dessert time should be allotted before catching a flight. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134800\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-biscotti.jpg\" alt=\"The biscotti at Bertolucci’s is a must-order and far softer in texture than most biscotti.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134800\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-biscotti.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-biscotti-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-biscotti-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-biscotti-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-biscotti-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-biscotti-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The biscotti at Bertolucci’s is a must-order and far softer in texture than most biscotti. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bertolucci’s certainly falls into that “they don’t make ‘em like this anymore” group.With hulking plates of spaghetti and meatballs, dim lighting, retro Italian posters and art, and plush Rat Pack-era red leather booths, Bertolucci’s isn’t trying to replicate history. It IS history.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Flavas Jamaican Grill\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/JSBZVHakMBEeGJdL9\">314 Linden Ave.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSouth San Francisco\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-south-sf.jpg\" alt=\"Flavas Jamaican Grill in South San Francisco is one of the Bay Area’s few remaining Caribbean restaurants and just might have the region’s leading jerk chicken.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134782\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-south-sf.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-south-sf-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-south-sf-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-south-sf-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-south-sf-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-south-sf-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Flavas Jamaican Grill in South San Francisco is one of the Bay Area’s few remaining Caribbean restaurants and just might have the region’s leading jerk chicken. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With the closings of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/131123/isla-vida-looks-to-make-waves-of-impact-in-the-fillmore\">Isla Vida\u003c/a> and Kaya in recent months, the Bay Area’s already compact roster of Caribbean restaurants shrunk even further. Luckily, one of the region’s remaining stalwarts for jerk chicken and oxtails is still going strong—and happens to be right by SFO.\u003cbr>\n[aside tag='guides' num='2' align='left' target=_ label='More Bay Area Guides']\u003cbr>\nChef/owner Leroy Douglas started cooking for his family in Jamaica at just 10 years old and after a long, winding career cooking all over North America, he ended up in South San Francisco opening this casual, charming restaurant with a definitive rendition of jerk chicken. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It has the ideal mix of Scotch bonnet peppers, cloves and a host of other spices that strike the right sharp spice/earthiness notes in coating the chicken without overwhelming it. The marinade has an interesting thickness to it that is rarely seen in jerk chicken preparations and must contribute to keeping the meat extra moist. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-plate.jpg\" alt=\"A jerk chicken and oxtail combo with plantains and rice & beans at Flavas Jamaican Grill.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-plate.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-plate-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-plate-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-plate-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-plate-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-plate-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A jerk chicken and oxtail combo with plantains and rice & beans at Flavas Jamaican Grill. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Guests can order the jerk chicken à la carte or as part of a combo with fall-off-the-bone oxtail or jerk salmon. There’s terrific detail in the cooking—huge depth to the gravy with the oxtail, deft seasoning with the rice and beans, perfectly caramelized plantains. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Outside of a Bob Marley poster and a painting of the Caribbean Sea at sunset, Flavas keeps it low-key on the design front in the tidy dining room. But when diners look at that shimmering Caribbean water and have a bite of the jerk chicken, there’s a special moment where diners have no worries, whether it’s just a quick lunch or dinner before a redeye. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Royal Feast\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/CLx8uTd1CpwJyfr37\">148 El Camino Real\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nMillbrae\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134784\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast.jpg\" alt=\"Royal Feast in Millbrae is a favorite destination for locals and for travelers with its location by SFO and Millbrae BART.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134784\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Royal Feast in Millbrae is a favorite destination for locals and for travelers with its location by SFO and Millbrae BART. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You can count on one hand the number of restaurants between the South Bay and Daly City that San Francisco Chronicle dining critics Michael Bauer and Soleil Ho named to their annual ‘Top 100’ guides in 2018 or 2019. \u003ca>\u003c/a>Royal Feast, a relatively intimate 80-seat spot in Millbrae, is one of them—and for good reason. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Zongyi Liu is one of the Peninsula’s most acclaimed chefs, both because of how consistently excellent his cooking is with a roughly 100 item-long menu and because he competed in the Bocuse d’Or global gastronomy competition representing his native China several years ago. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134785\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-feast.jpg\" alt=\"The feast is under way with a table of smoked duck, fried rice, kung pao chicken and more at Millbrae’s Royal Feast.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134785\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-feast.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-feast-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-feast-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-feast-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-feast-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-feast-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The feast is under way with a table of smoked duck, fried rice, kung pao chicken and more at Millbrae’s Royal Feast. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>His menu is a mix of Szechuan favorites, seldom-seen royal banquet dishes generally served in large format styles, and the more expected Chinese or Chinese-American fare. The quality is strong, where even the oft-ridiculed kung pao chicken turns out to be a delight of spice, crunch and, yes, plenty of numbness from the ma-la sensation of Szechuan peppers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keep an eye out for the mapo tofu, pork dumplings in chili oil or the must-order poached fish fillet in chili oil, along with items in the ‘Chef’s Recommendations’ (the pork belly and sea cucumber won over this jaded pork belly eater) and ‘Royal Cuisine’ sections. For diners in the mood for Beijing-style smoked duck with crackling crispy skin served on a duck-shaped platter (it’s true), this is definitely one of the better renditions in SF or the Peninsula.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134786\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-dumplings.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of ‘dumplings in chili oil’ at Royal Feast in Millbrae.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134786\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-dumplings.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-dumplings-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-dumplings-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-dumplings-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-dumplings-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-dumplings-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A plate of ‘dumplings in chili oil’ at Royal Feast in Millbrae. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finally, one other recommendation—every table should get at least one order of the scallion pancakes. They arrive scalding hot, slightly doughy in the center and, not revealed on the menu, accompanied by a baba ghanoush-evoking eggplant dip. Use the pancake with everything—spread the eggplant, dunk it in chili oil, use it for the additional duck slices, slather sea cucumber on it. It’s your feast. Enjoy!\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Gintei\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/ZDiX88nDZkfeebfW6\">235 El Camino Real\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Bruno\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134787\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-bar.jpg\" alt=\"The relaxed yet elegant sushi counter at Gintei in San Bruno.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134787\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-bar.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-bar-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-bar-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-bar-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-bar-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-bar-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The relaxed yet elegant sushi counter at Gintei in San Bruno. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While omakase-only restaurants in San Francisco now charge north of $200 for their exquisite offerings, an omakase for sushi or sashimi at \u003ca href=\"http://gintei.co/\">Gintei\u003c/a> in San Bruno is either $50 or $65 — and generally a dozen of their fish offerings come from the same source: Tokyo’s famed Tsukiji Fish Market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s easy to get carried away price-wise going the à la carte specials route at Gintei when the likes of Hokkaido uni and A5 Wagyu are over $20 per bite. However, an enjoyable bento box lunch or sushi-filled dinner here doesn’t have to focus on the luxury ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134788\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-sushi-roll.jpg\" alt=\"The Rainbow #1 roll at San Bruno’s Gintei right by SFO.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134788\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-sushi-roll.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-sushi-roll-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-sushi-roll-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-sushi-roll-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-sushi-roll-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-sushi-roll-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Rainbow #1 roll at San Bruno’s Gintei right by SFO. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Gintei satisfies that hard-to-find niche where the omakase isn’t stratospheric, the à la carte fish quality is sensational AND the non-sushi or sashimi plates are equally well-executed. Of all the restaurants in the immediate SFO area, this is the one that is the most flexible for all kinds of diners. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Come to the sushi bar, say “omakase” and out comes a parade of minimally adorned, maximum quality shima aji, kanpachi and katsuo. Or, bring the family, sit in the slightly sleek dining room (bring a jacket because the air conditioning can be strangely strong here), and order individual rolls or nigiri offerings from the various specials board or printed menu. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134792\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-nigiri.jpg\" alt=\"An assortment of nigiri specials at Gintei.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134792\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-nigiri.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-nigiri-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-nigiri-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-nigiri-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-nigiri-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-nigiri-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An assortment of nigiri specials at Gintei. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But wait, then there’s the beautifully fried tempura, grilled salmon collar, and a delightful bowl of chilled ankimo (monkfish liver) that tempt from the kitchen. There are lots of choices. The good news? There’s no going wrong here.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Sam Choy’s Poke to the Max\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/aqQbC885TogLs5YW9\">629 San Mateo Ave.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Bruno\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134789\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-room.jpg\" alt=\"Eating at Sam Choy’s Poke to the Max in San Bruno is a fun—and a learning—experience before or after a flight.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134789\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-room.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-room-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-room-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-room-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-room-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-room-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eating at Sam Choy’s Poke to the Max in San Bruno is a fun—and a learning—experience before or after a flight. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Before celebrity chefs were celebrity chefs featured on gossip websites and Instagram feeds, they were just iconic, game-changing chefs like Sam Choy was (and still is) to the Hawaiian Islands. Along with the likes of Alan Wong and Roy Yamaguchi (the ‘Roy’ of Roy’s in San Francisco), Choy lifted up the ingredient quality and culinary identity of Hawaii’s beautiful and delicious cuisine. Not only that, Choy was one of the first ‘celebrity chefs’ that an airline used to design menus to make airplane food going to Hawaii actually not just, well, airplane food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coincidence or not, almost a decade after he began consulting for American Airlines, Choy’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.samchoyspoke.com/\">first restaurant outpost\u003c/a> is one of the closest eateries to SFO. As the name suggests, poke is the headliner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Customizable poke bars are becoming as ubiquitous as sandwich delis in the Bay Area, but the shoyu salmon and creamy avocado here are as good as it gets anywhere in the region thanks to the pristine fish quality used. The customizable option comes into play where diners choose between tacos, wraps, salads and rice plates as the base for their poke. Unlike other poke bars, this one doesn’t offer an endless array of garnishes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134790\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-poke.jpg\" alt=\"A ‘classic shoyu’ ahi poke rice plate at Sam Choy’s Poke to the Max in San Bruno.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134790\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-poke.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-poke-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-poke-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-poke-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-poke-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-poke-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A ‘classic shoyu’ ahi poke rice plate at Sam Choy’s Poke to the Max in San Bruno. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Beyond the poke, there are several other Hawaiian favorites like musubis (think sushi burritos) that include the obligatory spam but also branch out to other proteins. Classic Hawaiian plate lunches are served with the signature scoops of macaroni salad and rice alongside hearty proteins like ‘loco moco’ that can be a beef patty or, as is so 2019, a vegan one with ‘Just Egg’ and an Impossible burger patty. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is a pleasant refinement here in general that makes it more along the lines of a ‘fine fast-casual’ spot than just ‘fast-casual.’ Plants hang from the walls, the poke is nicely plated instead of being just an uninspired scoop on a rice bowl, the scoops of rice sports flecks of umami-rich dried seaweed on top, and sunlight comes streaming in making the place positively glow even on foggy mornings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It might not be poke on the beach but it’s at least close to the max poke experience.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Whether you're picking up, dropping off or just don't fancy eating in the airport before your flight, try out one of these restaurants near the San Francisco International Airport (SFO).",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nSlowly but surely, the San Francisco International Airport (SFO) dining scene’s improvement is making the airport a slightly less frustrating experience. With recent openings from current and former local favorites like the Manufactory Food Hall, 1300 on Fillmore (which is no longer on Fillmore) and Farmer Brown (the SF sibling is closed), it’s actually possible to have a legitimately good meal past security.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, it’s still airport dining, which comes with the background soundtrack of “white courtesy telephone” requests and angry passengers screaming at gate agents (and don’t forget the inflated prices). Fortunately for those coming and going from SFO, the surrounding area is filled with outstanding dining choices of all price points and cuisines. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the holiday travel blitz soon to start and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11773215/hundreds-of-flight-delays-and-cancellations-at-sfo-heres-what-to-expect\">the current runway construction causing hundreds of delays and cancellations daily\u003c/a>, now is the time to have a great meal near SFO to take the edge off catching a flight—or give you an incentive to sit through 101 traffic when your roommate asks for a ride.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Bertolucci’s\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/ubRUgRHn5uWLPjQw8\">421 Cypress Ave.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSouth San Francisco\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134778\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci.jpg\" alt=\"The legendary Bertolucci’s just off 101 in South San Francisco has been around since 1929 and still sees several hundred diners on any given night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134778\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The legendary Bertolucci’s just off 101 in South San Francisco has been around since 1929 and still sees several hundred diners on any given night. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Only a handful of restaurants in the Bay Area can remember when Herbert Hoover was elected over Al Smith. South San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"http://sodinisbertoluccis.com/\">beloved classic Italian destination\u003c/a> is one of them.\u003cbr>\nSince 1928, Peninsula diners have come to this \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/613/sodinis-bertoluccis-ristorante-reviews\">Check, Please! Bay Area-approved\u003c/a> venerable address for tried-and-true Italian favorites with a slight Tuscan emphasis, which reflects where the Bertolucci family is originally from. Since 2005, the restaurant has been owned by Peter Sodini (the founder of North Beach’s equally beloved Golden Boy Pizza) after the Bertoluccis retired and sold the establishment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertoluccis-picatta.jpg\" alt=\"Tried-and-true classic Italian standards like salmon picatta are nicely prepared by the Bertolucci’s kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134780\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertoluccis-picatta.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertoluccis-picatta-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertoluccis-picatta-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertoluccis-picatta-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertoluccis-picatta-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertoluccis-picatta-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tried-and-true classic Italian standards like salmon picatta are nicely prepared by the Bertolucci’s kitchen. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That connection would explain why Golden Boy pizza is available on the menu, but the rest of what the kitchen produces probably looks much like it did 90 years ago but is far from tired: osso buco, veal Milanese, linguine con vongole, lasagna. Along with the complimentary, generous bread platter of cheese pizza-like focaccia hunks and sourdough slices, most tables start with a Caesar salad that prominently displays tiny anchovy filets draped on top. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pastas are split between customizable pick-a-style and pick-a-sauce format, or traditional favorites like creamy tortellini Carbonara. For secondi, if you’re a first-timer, it’s all about trying the hardly innovative but perfectly done picatta sauce with salmon, veal or chicken. The silky mashed potatoes with it are particularly special and warrant your own trip. To conclude, biscotti, cannoli and silky chocolate praline (like a chocolate mousse torte) are must-orders, meaning that some additional dessert time should be allotted before catching a flight. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134800\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-biscotti.jpg\" alt=\"The biscotti at Bertolucci’s is a must-order and far softer in texture than most biscotti.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134800\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-biscotti.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-biscotti-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-biscotti-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-biscotti-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-biscotti-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Bertolucci-biscotti-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The biscotti at Bertolucci’s is a must-order and far softer in texture than most biscotti. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bertolucci’s certainly falls into that “they don’t make ‘em like this anymore” group.With hulking plates of spaghetti and meatballs, dim lighting, retro Italian posters and art, and plush Rat Pack-era red leather booths, Bertolucci’s isn’t trying to replicate history. It IS history.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Flavas Jamaican Grill\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/JSBZVHakMBEeGJdL9\">314 Linden Ave.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSouth San Francisco\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-south-sf.jpg\" alt=\"Flavas Jamaican Grill in South San Francisco is one of the Bay Area’s few remaining Caribbean restaurants and just might have the region’s leading jerk chicken.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134782\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-south-sf.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-south-sf-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-south-sf-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-south-sf-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-south-sf-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-south-sf-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Flavas Jamaican Grill in South San Francisco is one of the Bay Area’s few remaining Caribbean restaurants and just might have the region’s leading jerk chicken. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With the closings of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/131123/isla-vida-looks-to-make-waves-of-impact-in-the-fillmore\">Isla Vida\u003c/a> and Kaya in recent months, the Bay Area’s already compact roster of Caribbean restaurants shrunk even further. Luckily, one of the region’s remaining stalwarts for jerk chicken and oxtails is still going strong—and happens to be right by SFO.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nChef/owner Leroy Douglas started cooking for his family in Jamaica at just 10 years old and after a long, winding career cooking all over North America, he ended up in South San Francisco opening this casual, charming restaurant with a definitive rendition of jerk chicken. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It has the ideal mix of Scotch bonnet peppers, cloves and a host of other spices that strike the right sharp spice/earthiness notes in coating the chicken without overwhelming it. The marinade has an interesting thickness to it that is rarely seen in jerk chicken preparations and must contribute to keeping the meat extra moist. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-plate.jpg\" alt=\"A jerk chicken and oxtail combo with plantains and rice & beans at Flavas Jamaican Grill.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-plate.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-plate-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-plate-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-plate-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-plate-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Flavas-plate-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A jerk chicken and oxtail combo with plantains and rice & beans at Flavas Jamaican Grill. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Guests can order the jerk chicken à la carte or as part of a combo with fall-off-the-bone oxtail or jerk salmon. There’s terrific detail in the cooking—huge depth to the gravy with the oxtail, deft seasoning with the rice and beans, perfectly caramelized plantains. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Outside of a Bob Marley poster and a painting of the Caribbean Sea at sunset, Flavas keeps it low-key on the design front in the tidy dining room. But when diners look at that shimmering Caribbean water and have a bite of the jerk chicken, there’s a special moment where diners have no worries, whether it’s just a quick lunch or dinner before a redeye. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Royal Feast\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/CLx8uTd1CpwJyfr37\">148 El Camino Real\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nMillbrae\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134784\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast.jpg\" alt=\"Royal Feast in Millbrae is a favorite destination for locals and for travelers with its location by SFO and Millbrae BART.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134784\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Royal Feast in Millbrae is a favorite destination for locals and for travelers with its location by SFO and Millbrae BART. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You can count on one hand the number of restaurants between the South Bay and Daly City that San Francisco Chronicle dining critics Michael Bauer and Soleil Ho named to their annual ‘Top 100’ guides in 2018 or 2019. \u003ca>\u003c/a>Royal Feast, a relatively intimate 80-seat spot in Millbrae, is one of them—and for good reason. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Zongyi Liu is one of the Peninsula’s most acclaimed chefs, both because of how consistently excellent his cooking is with a roughly 100 item-long menu and because he competed in the Bocuse d’Or global gastronomy competition representing his native China several years ago. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134785\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-feast.jpg\" alt=\"The feast is under way with a table of smoked duck, fried rice, kung pao chicken and more at Millbrae’s Royal Feast.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134785\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-feast.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-feast-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-feast-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-feast-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-feast-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-feast-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The feast is under way with a table of smoked duck, fried rice, kung pao chicken and more at Millbrae’s Royal Feast. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>His menu is a mix of Szechuan favorites, seldom-seen royal banquet dishes generally served in large format styles, and the more expected Chinese or Chinese-American fare. The quality is strong, where even the oft-ridiculed kung pao chicken turns out to be a delight of spice, crunch and, yes, plenty of numbness from the ma-la sensation of Szechuan peppers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keep an eye out for the mapo tofu, pork dumplings in chili oil or the must-order poached fish fillet in chili oil, along with items in the ‘Chef’s Recommendations’ (the pork belly and sea cucumber won over this jaded pork belly eater) and ‘Royal Cuisine’ sections. For diners in the mood for Beijing-style smoked duck with crackling crispy skin served on a duck-shaped platter (it’s true), this is definitely one of the better renditions in SF or the Peninsula.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134786\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-dumplings.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of ‘dumplings in chili oil’ at Royal Feast in Millbrae.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134786\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-dumplings.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-dumplings-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-dumplings-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-dumplings-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-dumplings-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Royal-Feast-dumplings-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A plate of ‘dumplings in chili oil’ at Royal Feast in Millbrae. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finally, one other recommendation—every table should get at least one order of the scallion pancakes. They arrive scalding hot, slightly doughy in the center and, not revealed on the menu, accompanied by a baba ghanoush-evoking eggplant dip. Use the pancake with everything—spread the eggplant, dunk it in chili oil, use it for the additional duck slices, slather sea cucumber on it. It’s your feast. Enjoy!\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Gintei\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/ZDiX88nDZkfeebfW6\">235 El Camino Real\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Bruno\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134787\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-bar.jpg\" alt=\"The relaxed yet elegant sushi counter at Gintei in San Bruno.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134787\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-bar.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-bar-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-bar-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-bar-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-bar-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-bar-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The relaxed yet elegant sushi counter at Gintei in San Bruno. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While omakase-only restaurants in San Francisco now charge north of $200 for their exquisite offerings, an omakase for sushi or sashimi at \u003ca href=\"http://gintei.co/\">Gintei\u003c/a> in San Bruno is either $50 or $65 — and generally a dozen of their fish offerings come from the same source: Tokyo’s famed Tsukiji Fish Market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s easy to get carried away price-wise going the à la carte specials route at Gintei when the likes of Hokkaido uni and A5 Wagyu are over $20 per bite. However, an enjoyable bento box lunch or sushi-filled dinner here doesn’t have to focus on the luxury ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134788\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-sushi-roll.jpg\" alt=\"The Rainbow #1 roll at San Bruno’s Gintei right by SFO.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134788\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-sushi-roll.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-sushi-roll-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-sushi-roll-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-sushi-roll-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-sushi-roll-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-sushi-roll-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Rainbow #1 roll at San Bruno’s Gintei right by SFO. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Gintei satisfies that hard-to-find niche where the omakase isn’t stratospheric, the à la carte fish quality is sensational AND the non-sushi or sashimi plates are equally well-executed. Of all the restaurants in the immediate SFO area, this is the one that is the most flexible for all kinds of diners. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Come to the sushi bar, say “omakase” and out comes a parade of minimally adorned, maximum quality shima aji, kanpachi and katsuo. Or, bring the family, sit in the slightly sleek dining room (bring a jacket because the air conditioning can be strangely strong here), and order individual rolls or nigiri offerings from the various specials board or printed menu. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134792\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-nigiri.jpg\" alt=\"An assortment of nigiri specials at Gintei.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134792\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-nigiri.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-nigiri-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-nigiri-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-nigiri-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-nigiri-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Gintei-nigiri-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An assortment of nigiri specials at Gintei. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But wait, then there’s the beautifully fried tempura, grilled salmon collar, and a delightful bowl of chilled ankimo (monkfish liver) that tempt from the kitchen. There are lots of choices. The good news? There’s no going wrong here.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Sam Choy’s Poke to the Max\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/aqQbC885TogLs5YW9\">629 San Mateo Ave.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Bruno\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134789\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-room.jpg\" alt=\"Eating at Sam Choy’s Poke to the Max in San Bruno is a fun—and a learning—experience before or after a flight.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134789\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-room.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-room-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-room-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-room-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-room-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-room-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eating at Sam Choy’s Poke to the Max in San Bruno is a fun—and a learning—experience before or after a flight. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Before celebrity chefs were celebrity chefs featured on gossip websites and Instagram feeds, they were just iconic, game-changing chefs like Sam Choy was (and still is) to the Hawaiian Islands. Along with the likes of Alan Wong and Roy Yamaguchi (the ‘Roy’ of Roy’s in San Francisco), Choy lifted up the ingredient quality and culinary identity of Hawaii’s beautiful and delicious cuisine. Not only that, Choy was one of the first ‘celebrity chefs’ that an airline used to design menus to make airplane food going to Hawaii actually not just, well, airplane food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coincidence or not, almost a decade after he began consulting for American Airlines, Choy’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.samchoyspoke.com/\">first restaurant outpost\u003c/a> is one of the closest eateries to SFO. As the name suggests, poke is the headliner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Customizable poke bars are becoming as ubiquitous as sandwich delis in the Bay Area, but the shoyu salmon and creamy avocado here are as good as it gets anywhere in the region thanks to the pristine fish quality used. The customizable option comes into play where diners choose between tacos, wraps, salads and rice plates as the base for their poke. Unlike other poke bars, this one doesn’t offer an endless array of garnishes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134790\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-poke.jpg\" alt=\"A ‘classic shoyu’ ahi poke rice plate at Sam Choy’s Poke to the Max in San Bruno.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134790\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-poke.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-poke-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-poke-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-poke-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-poke-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Sam-Choy-poke-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A ‘classic shoyu’ ahi poke rice plate at Sam Choy’s Poke to the Max in San Bruno. \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Beyond the poke, there are several other Hawaiian favorites like musubis (think sushi burritos) that include the obligatory spam but also branch out to other proteins. Classic Hawaiian plate lunches are served with the signature scoops of macaroni salad and rice alongside hearty proteins like ‘loco moco’ that can be a beef patty or, as is so 2019, a vegan one with ‘Just Egg’ and an Impossible burger patty. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is a pleasant refinement here in general that makes it more along the lines of a ‘fine fast-casual’ spot than just ‘fast-casual.’ Plants hang from the walls, the poke is nicely plated instead of being just an uninspired scoop on a rice bowl, the scoops of rice sports flecks of umami-rich dried seaweed on top, and sunlight comes streaming in making the place positively glow even on foggy mornings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>An 11-year-old boy recently hit up 53-year-old Roger Wade on LinkedIn, wishing to open a restaurant one day. Wade wrote back: Why not now?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Wade, CEO of \u003ca href=\"https://www.boxpark.co.uk/\">Boxpark\u003c/a>, a chain of hip food halls in London, was 11 years old himself, he sold candy to his schoolmates. He cited that memory as a heartstring plucked by Omari McQueen, the \u003ca href=\"https://uk.linkedin.com/in/omari-mcqueen-a33939168\">11-year-old LinkedIn user\u003c/a>. \"Age doesn't define a person any more than gender or race does,\" Wade said. \"We were happy to support a dream. Omari is a role model for dreaming big.\"\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_131003,bayareabites_130171' label='More on Kids and Cooking']\u003cbr>\nWade waived the £1,000 rent for a weeklong pop-up at Boxpark's Croydon location, freeing McQueen to bill himself as the \"world's youngest restaurateur\" — even younger than \u003ca href=\"https://www.kcrw.com/culture/shows/the-document/chef-flynn\">Flynn McGarry\u003c/a>, who, in 2011, became a foodie wunderkind at 11 1/2 by running a restaurant out of his California home (and charging $160 a head when he debuted in New York).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McQueen debuted Dipalicious, his vegan Caribbean spot, in the same food hall as Goat, a Jamaican restaurant run by \u003ca href=\"https://www.boxpark.co.uk/blog/introducing-goat/\">James Cochran\u003c/a>, the 2018 \u003cem>Great British Menu\u003c/em> champion of champions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>McQueen's pop-up week spanned a week in August, which was a very busy month for him. A few days before Dipalicious, opened, he appeared on \u003cem>Step Up to the Plate\u003c/em>, a BBC food competition in which children jostle to showcase their restaurant skills. (He had already \u003ca href=\"https://www.bbc.co.uk/newsround/47063786\">taught\u003c/a> the BBC's \u003cem>Newsround\u003c/em> how to make vegan shepherd's pie.) McQueen did not advance in the competition, even though celebrity chef Liam Charles scored his beetroot risotto a 9.5 out of 10.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm not bothered,\" McQueen said recently as he peeled potatoes in Dipalicious' kitchen. \"I skipped ahead to having my own proper restaurant anyway.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now he enjoys a childhood of industrial blenders for Christmas, iPad breaks to play \u003cem>Cooking Mama\u003c/em> and international fame, but it wasn't always so giddy. When McQueen was 7, his stay-at-home mother said she began suffering from hemiplegic migraines, which would paralyze half her body for up to 24 hours. In order to make sure her six kids got fed, she said she tried teaching her eldest child to cook, but it was McQueen, second-eldest, who took to it. His father, the son of Jamaican immigrants, had barely taught McQueen how to fry fish before the precocious young chef stumbled upon a \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/user/officialpeta\">PETA video\u003c/a> on YouTube and became \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/01/07/683015303/planting-a-seed-the-vegan-diet-in-2019\">vegan\u003c/a>, joining \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2018/apr/01/vegans-are-coming-millennials-health-climate-change-animal-welfare\">a British renaissance\u003c/a> in plant-based eating. (Similarly, McGarry's early signature dish was a \u003ca href=\"https://www.vogue.com/article/gem-restaurant-chef-flynn-mcgarry-must-eat-beet\">beet Wellington\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McQueen approaches his veganism with kids-say-the-darndest-things candor, leaving carrots and almond milk out for Santa, along with a note telling him why he should be vegan. Or asking attendees at a vegan conference — for which he sat as \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/Wk_nQO4dl1w\">an expert in a panel discussion\u003c/a> — to raise their hands if they're not vegan, then asking them plainly, \"Why are you not vegan?\" On a national evening news program, he said \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/GIEx90nygzs\">milk is \"cows' pus\"\u003c/a> (because of common \u003ca href=\"https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mastitis_in_dairy_cattle\">mastitis\u003c/a>). Does he ever drink Coca-Cola? \"No, it's used to \u003ca href=\"https://www.businessinsider.com/i-tried-cleaning-my-toilet-with-coke-and-it-actually-works-2017-12\">clean toilets\u003c/a>.\" But his candor cuts both ways: On his televised food competition, he called \u003ca href=\"https://www.pbs.org/video/what-is-natto-vsmi1w/\">natto\u003c/a> \"disgusting.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although he is often cited as an \"award-winning chef,\" the awards he has won have been for vegan compassion and entrepreneurship, not cooking — yet. Whereas McGarry was re-creating labyrinthine recipes from \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2014/07/19/332570027/not-my-job-french-laundry-chef-thomas-keller-gets-quizzed-on-actual-laundry\">The French Laundry Cookbook\u003c/a>, the go-tos of McQueen's separate \u003ca href=\"https://www.dipalicious.co.uk/\">Dipalicious\u003c/a> food brand are easy purees and smoothies. His vegan Caribbean offerings at Boxpark showcased simple, on-trend dishes including pumpkin soup (£7), barbecue jackfruit with breadfruit chips (£8) and callaloo (£8). While it's easy for Caribbean spice to punch the tongue with heat, his hugs it with flavor: Omari umami. Dipalicious sold no desserts except for its sweet namesake dipping sauces (£4.99) — a puree of peaches and pears with nutmeg, for example. McQueen also made sure to offer smaller-portioned kids' meals (£3.99), although child vegans are \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/08/24/health/vegan-parents-malnourished-baby.html\">controversial\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McQueen's next big-picture dream is to convert a bus to a food truck and drive around the country with his father, a bus driver, evangelizing veganism's moral and nutritional imperatives. \"You can tell people that food is healthy or kind to animals,\" he said while eating dairy-free raspberry ice cream from \u003ca href=\"https://whatthepitta.com/\">What The Pitta\u003c/a>, the other vegan shop at Boxpark Croydon, \"but they won't care unless the food is fun and delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Celebrity is a big part of his thinking as well — he has met actor Daniel Radcliffe and British television stars — and so he has a more immediate goal in mind by his 12th birthday in May next year: He aches to meet \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=103321043\">Gordon Ramsay\u003c/a>. \"He's like a superhero. His superpower is being a chef who shouts,\" he said. \"I love to cook and make delicious food, but I want to learn how to do it while shouting, because that looks fun.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>A short game of \"... Or Gordon Ramsay?\" followed:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Who would you choose between [your favorite athlete,] Alexis Sánchez or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Barack Obama or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Queen Elizabeth or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Spider-Man or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Santa Claus or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>When a recent Dipalicious customer was confused to be greeted by an 11-year-old's firm handshake and a lecture on the benefits of jackfruit, McQueen pointed to a photo on the wall of himself in a tuxedo. (He bought it when he was 10 — \"but it still fits me.\")\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm in charge here. This is my restaurant,\" he said. The customer — Chris Tagoe, a 38-year-old IT developer — walked out with pumpkin soup and vegetable curry. \"I wouldn't normally go vegan or veg,\" said Tagoe, \"but he's really nice.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With his pop-up closed, McQueen is back to his YouTube channel, where his vegan pizza recipe includes an \"Uptown Funk\" dance break, and he sometimes offers left-field advice on how to become a millionaire, though he isn't one himself. Home-schooled until now, he begins public school in the fall, although he'll still sell his sauces and prepacked vegan meals after school. \"I'm ready for the world,\" he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://charmandrigor.com/\">Richard Morgan\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a freelance writer in New York, is the author of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Bedlam-Kindle-Single-Richard-Morgan-ebook/dp/B00WH0F2QS\">Born in Bedlam\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a memoir.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/09/10/755469712/this-rising-star-chef-is-black-vegan-and-only-11-years-old\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nWade waived the £1,000 rent for a weeklong pop-up at Boxpark's Croydon location, freeing McQueen to bill himself as the \"world's youngest restaurateur\" — even younger than \u003ca href=\"https://www.kcrw.com/culture/shows/the-document/chef-flynn\">Flynn McGarry\u003c/a>, who, in 2011, became a foodie wunderkind at 11 1/2 by running a restaurant out of his California home (and charging $160 a head when he debuted in New York).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McQueen debuted Dipalicious, his vegan Caribbean spot, in the same food hall as Goat, a Jamaican restaurant run by \u003ca href=\"https://www.boxpark.co.uk/blog/introducing-goat/\">James Cochran\u003c/a>, the 2018 \u003cem>Great British Menu\u003c/em> champion of champions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>McQueen's pop-up week spanned a week in August, which was a very busy month for him. A few days before Dipalicious, opened, he appeared on \u003cem>Step Up to the Plate\u003c/em>, a BBC food competition in which children jostle to showcase their restaurant skills. (He had already \u003ca href=\"https://www.bbc.co.uk/newsround/47063786\">taught\u003c/a> the BBC's \u003cem>Newsround\u003c/em> how to make vegan shepherd's pie.) McQueen did not advance in the competition, even though celebrity chef Liam Charles scored his beetroot risotto a 9.5 out of 10.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm not bothered,\" McQueen said recently as he peeled potatoes in Dipalicious' kitchen. \"I skipped ahead to having my own proper restaurant anyway.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now he enjoys a childhood of industrial blenders for Christmas, iPad breaks to play \u003cem>Cooking Mama\u003c/em> and international fame, but it wasn't always so giddy. When McQueen was 7, his stay-at-home mother said she began suffering from hemiplegic migraines, which would paralyze half her body for up to 24 hours. In order to make sure her six kids got fed, she said she tried teaching her eldest child to cook, but it was McQueen, second-eldest, who took to it. His father, the son of Jamaican immigrants, had barely taught McQueen how to fry fish before the precocious young chef stumbled upon a \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/user/officialpeta\">PETA video\u003c/a> on YouTube and became \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/01/07/683015303/planting-a-seed-the-vegan-diet-in-2019\">vegan\u003c/a>, joining \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2018/apr/01/vegans-are-coming-millennials-health-climate-change-animal-welfare\">a British renaissance\u003c/a> in plant-based eating. (Similarly, McGarry's early signature dish was a \u003ca href=\"https://www.vogue.com/article/gem-restaurant-chef-flynn-mcgarry-must-eat-beet\">beet Wellington\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McQueen approaches his veganism with kids-say-the-darndest-things candor, leaving carrots and almond milk out for Santa, along with a note telling him why he should be vegan. Or asking attendees at a vegan conference — for which he sat as \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/Wk_nQO4dl1w\">an expert in a panel discussion\u003c/a> — to raise their hands if they're not vegan, then asking them plainly, \"Why are you not vegan?\" On a national evening news program, he said \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/GIEx90nygzs\">milk is \"cows' pus\"\u003c/a> (because of common \u003ca href=\"https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mastitis_in_dairy_cattle\">mastitis\u003c/a>). Does he ever drink Coca-Cola? \"No, it's used to \u003ca href=\"https://www.businessinsider.com/i-tried-cleaning-my-toilet-with-coke-and-it-actually-works-2017-12\">clean toilets\u003c/a>.\" But his candor cuts both ways: On his televised food competition, he called \u003ca href=\"https://www.pbs.org/video/what-is-natto-vsmi1w/\">natto\u003c/a> \"disgusting.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although he is often cited as an \"award-winning chef,\" the awards he has won have been for vegan compassion and entrepreneurship, not cooking — yet. Whereas McGarry was re-creating labyrinthine recipes from \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2014/07/19/332570027/not-my-job-french-laundry-chef-thomas-keller-gets-quizzed-on-actual-laundry\">The French Laundry Cookbook\u003c/a>, the go-tos of McQueen's separate \u003ca href=\"https://www.dipalicious.co.uk/\">Dipalicious\u003c/a> food brand are easy purees and smoothies. His vegan Caribbean offerings at Boxpark showcased simple, on-trend dishes including pumpkin soup (£7), barbecue jackfruit with breadfruit chips (£8) and callaloo (£8). While it's easy for Caribbean spice to punch the tongue with heat, his hugs it with flavor: Omari umami. Dipalicious sold no desserts except for its sweet namesake dipping sauces (£4.99) — a puree of peaches and pears with nutmeg, for example. McQueen also made sure to offer smaller-portioned kids' meals (£3.99), although child vegans are \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/08/24/health/vegan-parents-malnourished-baby.html\">controversial\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McQueen's next big-picture dream is to convert a bus to a food truck and drive around the country with his father, a bus driver, evangelizing veganism's moral and nutritional imperatives. \"You can tell people that food is healthy or kind to animals,\" he said while eating dairy-free raspberry ice cream from \u003ca href=\"https://whatthepitta.com/\">What The Pitta\u003c/a>, the other vegan shop at Boxpark Croydon, \"but they won't care unless the food is fun and delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Celebrity is a big part of his thinking as well — he has met actor Daniel Radcliffe and British television stars — and so he has a more immediate goal in mind by his 12th birthday in May next year: He aches to meet \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=103321043\">Gordon Ramsay\u003c/a>. \"He's like a superhero. His superpower is being a chef who shouts,\" he said. \"I love to cook and make delicious food, but I want to learn how to do it while shouting, because that looks fun.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>A short game of \"... Or Gordon Ramsay?\" followed:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Who would you choose between [your favorite athlete,] Alexis Sánchez or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Barack Obama or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Queen Elizabeth or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Spider-Man or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Santa Claus or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>When a recent Dipalicious customer was confused to be greeted by an 11-year-old's firm handshake and a lecture on the benefits of jackfruit, McQueen pointed to a photo on the wall of himself in a tuxedo. (He bought it when he was 10 — \"but it still fits me.\")\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm in charge here. This is my restaurant,\" he said. The customer — Chris Tagoe, a 38-year-old IT developer — walked out with pumpkin soup and vegetable curry. \"I wouldn't normally go vegan or veg,\" said Tagoe, \"but he's really nice.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With his pop-up closed, McQueen is back to his YouTube channel, where his vegan pizza recipe includes an \"Uptown Funk\" dance break, and he sometimes offers left-field advice on how to become a millionaire, though he isn't one himself. Home-schooled until now, he begins public school in the fall, although he'll still sell his sauces and prepacked vegan meals after school. \"I'm ready for the world,\" he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://charmandrigor.com/\">Richard Morgan\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a freelance writer in New York, is the author of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Bedlam-Kindle-Single-Richard-Morgan-ebook/dp/B00WH0F2QS\">Born in Bedlam\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a memoir.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
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"radiolab": {
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"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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"reveal": {
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"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.revealnews.org/episodes/",
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},
"rightnowish": {
"id": "rightnowish",
"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"order": 16
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},
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"info": "Science Friday is a weekly science talk show, broadcast live over public radio stations nationwide. Each week, the show focuses on science topics that are in the news and tries to bring an educated, balanced discussion to bear on the scientific issues at hand. Panels of expert guests join host Ira Flatow, a veteran science journalist, to discuss science and to take questions from listeners during the call-in portion of the program.",
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