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"content": "\u003cp>For Dan Barber, the celebrated chef of the New York City restaurant Blue Hill, each course of a meal is an opportunity to tell a story. One of these stories is about a pepper — an aromatic, orange habanero without any heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Diners are served their heatless habaneros lightly flavored with salt and pepper. They take a bite, then wait for the feeling of a burning mouth or watering eyes that never comes. \"When [our diners] question things they know to be absolute — habanero equals intense heat — it gets them to think about eating in a different way,\" says Barber. \"It's very important to jujitsu expectations. You end up being more conscious of what you're eating.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Blue Hill is the biggest buyer of these peppers, also known as \"Habanadas,\" which are sold through distributor Baldor Foods. The story Barber hopes to tell with these chiles is that all foods — from apples to yams — were created through a series of conscious decisions. Some plants thrive because of their disease-resistance, growing conditions, or high yields; for others, it's taste that has caused their popularity. Behind each of the foods we take for granted as finished products are tens or hundreds of generations of genetic tinkering and selection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We selected the habanero for heat because that's what was coveted. But what if you wanted to experience the melon-like experience of a pepper?\" Barber asks. \"You can't do it with a habanero — you can with a Habanada.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115281\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-1020x1360.jpg\" alt=\"Cornell plant breeder Michael Mazourek created the Habanada as part of his doctoral research. He got the idea after discovering a rogue heatless pepper whose genetics behaved very differently from a naturally sweet pepper like the Bell.\" width=\"640\" height=\"853\" class=\"size-large wp-image-115281\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cornell plant breeder Michael Mazourek created the Habanada as part of his doctoral research. He got the idea after discovering a rogue heatless pepper whose genetics behaved very differently from a naturally sweet pepper like the Bell. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Baldor Foods)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The man behind the Habanada is a Cornell University plant breeder named \u003ca href=\"https://hort.cals.cornell.edu/people/michael-mazourek\">Michael Mazourek\u003c/a>, who created it as part of his doctoral research. He got the idea after discovering a rogue heatless pepper whose genetics behaved very differently from a naturally sweet pepper like the Bell. This pepper had somehow lost whatever made it spicy in the first place. So, Mazourek wondered, what would happen if they created a habanero without the heat?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their parent pepper, the original heatless variety, \"tasted pretty bad,\" Mazourek recalled, \"so we cross-pollinated it with a habanero, and after a couple more generations we started to get some non-hot but aromatic peppers.\" Mazourek had a finished variety of the Habanada as early as 2007, but it was only a few years ago that the pepper started making its way out into the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2014, the Habanada was one of the plants featured in the Culinary Breeding Network Variety Showcase, an annual event where chefs are paired with a new food variety and left to experiment. Nora Antene, chef of Portland, Oregon's Le Pigeon restaurant, got the Habanada which she turned into a summer sherbet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today there are two routes to get your hands on Habanadas — grow them from seed in your backyard or look for them in a restaurant. Currently, Ark Foods, a grower that helped popularize the Shishito pepper (another low-heat pepper), is the only commercial grower. Its peppers are sold to restaurants through distributor Baldor Foods. Ark Foods founder Noah Robbins says he's a big habanero fan and knew he wanted to grow heatless habaneros as soon as he heard about them. \"They fit really nicely into what we're all about, which is the flavor of a vegetable rather than the yield or disease resistance.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While there are so-called pepper wars being fought between growers trying to beat the Carolina Reaper for the title of hottest pepper in the world, many pepper lovers are looking for something new, says Judith Finlayson, author of \u003cem>The Chile Pepper Bible\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A normal, unaltered habanero can get up to 300,000 on the Scoville scale – which measures levels of capsaicin, the chemical that causes the burning sensation we call \"heat. The Reaper registers at over 2 million. Reaper-eating challenges on the Internet often end in disaster for those who attempt it. Common side effects include: vomiting, sweating, stomach cramps, blisters in the mouth, and all around agony. Potential physical illness aside, \"You get to a point where it's so hot that you aren't tasting anything but heat,\" Finlayson says.\u003cem> \u003c/em>\"You're in a state of numbness from the heat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robbins sees the growing popularity of the heatless habanero as a sign that people want new experiences with a pepper. Taking away the heat, Robbins explains, is almost like getting the essence of a pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As with most matters of taste, everyone describes the Habanada a little differently. Some say it has a citrus flavor, while others cite floral notes or even a hint of guava. But in some ways the main payoff of the Habanada is the anticipation it builds inside eaters' mouths. \"Imagine as though you're tasting a habanero, so your taste buds feel as though there will be a rush of heat — but it never comes,\" Robbins describes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For most of the last 50 to 100 years, Barber says, the chef has been left out of the conversation of which plants were valuable. That decision has instead been in the purview of grocers, farmers, distributors, and others whose main concern wasn't taste but practicality. As a result, Barber says, we've dumbed down taste, flavors, and diversity for the sake of the industry that wants things to be controlled. \"Chefs don't want that control. Just as a painter wants different colors of paint, chefs want different flavors of food.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>For Dan Barber, the celebrated chef of the New York City restaurant Blue Hill, each course of a meal is an opportunity to tell a story. One of these stories is about a pepper — an aromatic, orange habanero without any heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Diners are served their heatless habaneros lightly flavored with salt and pepper. They take a bite, then wait for the feeling of a burning mouth or watering eyes that never comes. \"When [our diners] question things they know to be absolute — habanero equals intense heat — it gets them to think about eating in a different way,\" says Barber. \"It's very important to jujitsu expectations. You end up being more conscious of what you're eating.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Blue Hill is the biggest buyer of these peppers, also known as \"Habanadas,\" which are sold through distributor Baldor Foods. The story Barber hopes to tell with these chiles is that all foods — from apples to yams — were created through a series of conscious decisions. Some plants thrive because of their disease-resistance, growing conditions, or high yields; for others, it's taste that has caused their popularity. Behind each of the foods we take for granted as finished products are tens or hundreds of generations of genetic tinkering and selection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We selected the habanero for heat because that's what was coveted. But what if you wanted to experience the melon-like experience of a pepper?\" Barber asks. \"You can't do it with a habanero — you can with a Habanada.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115281\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-1020x1360.jpg\" alt=\"Cornell plant breeder Michael Mazourek created the Habanada as part of his doctoral research. He got the idea after discovering a rogue heatless pepper whose genetics behaved very differently from a naturally sweet pepper like the Bell.\" width=\"640\" height=\"853\" class=\"size-large wp-image-115281\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2016-10-05-13.36.44-1_vert-ef1b0c0e01da9d38246a5a69ab5604153527c35b-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cornell plant breeder Michael Mazourek created the Habanada as part of his doctoral research. He got the idea after discovering a rogue heatless pepper whose genetics behaved very differently from a naturally sweet pepper like the Bell. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Baldor Foods)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The man behind the Habanada is a Cornell University plant breeder named \u003ca href=\"https://hort.cals.cornell.edu/people/michael-mazourek\">Michael Mazourek\u003c/a>, who created it as part of his doctoral research. He got the idea after discovering a rogue heatless pepper whose genetics behaved very differently from a naturally sweet pepper like the Bell. This pepper had somehow lost whatever made it spicy in the first place. So, Mazourek wondered, what would happen if they created a habanero without the heat?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their parent pepper, the original heatless variety, \"tasted pretty bad,\" Mazourek recalled, \"so we cross-pollinated it with a habanero, and after a couple more generations we started to get some non-hot but aromatic peppers.\" Mazourek had a finished variety of the Habanada as early as 2007, but it was only a few years ago that the pepper started making its way out into the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2014, the Habanada was one of the plants featured in the Culinary Breeding Network Variety Showcase, an annual event where chefs are paired with a new food variety and left to experiment. Nora Antene, chef of Portland, Oregon's Le Pigeon restaurant, got the Habanada which she turned into a summer sherbet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today there are two routes to get your hands on Habanadas — grow them from seed in your backyard or look for them in a restaurant. Currently, Ark Foods, a grower that helped popularize the Shishito pepper (another low-heat pepper), is the only commercial grower. Its peppers are sold to restaurants through distributor Baldor Foods. Ark Foods founder Noah Robbins says he's a big habanero fan and knew he wanted to grow heatless habaneros as soon as he heard about them. \"They fit really nicely into what we're all about, which is the flavor of a vegetable rather than the yield or disease resistance.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While there are so-called pepper wars being fought between growers trying to beat the Carolina Reaper for the title of hottest pepper in the world, many pepper lovers are looking for something new, says Judith Finlayson, author of \u003cem>The Chile Pepper Bible\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A normal, unaltered habanero can get up to 300,000 on the Scoville scale – which measures levels of capsaicin, the chemical that causes the burning sensation we call \"heat. The Reaper registers at over 2 million. Reaper-eating challenges on the Internet often end in disaster for those who attempt it. Common side effects include: vomiting, sweating, stomach cramps, blisters in the mouth, and all around agony. Potential physical illness aside, \"You get to a point where it's so hot that you aren't tasting anything but heat,\" Finlayson says.\u003cem> \u003c/em>\"You're in a state of numbness from the heat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robbins sees the growing popularity of the heatless habanero as a sign that people want new experiences with a pepper. Taking away the heat, Robbins explains, is almost like getting the essence of a pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As with most matters of taste, everyone describes the Habanada a little differently. Some say it has a citrus flavor, while others cite floral notes or even a hint of guava. But in some ways the main payoff of the Habanada is the anticipation it builds inside eaters' mouths. \"Imagine as though you're tasting a habanero, so your taste buds feel as though there will be a rush of heat — but it never comes,\" Robbins describes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For most of the last 50 to 100 years, Barber says, the chef has been left out of the conversation of which plants were valuable. That decision has instead been in the purview of grocers, farmers, distributors, and others whose main concern wasn't taste but practicality. As a result, Barber says, we've dumbed down taste, flavors, and diversity for the sake of the industry that wants things to be controlled. \"Chefs don't want that control. Just as a painter wants different colors of paint, chefs want different flavors of food.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Cheap Eats, Cheap Labor: The Hidden Human Costs Of Those Lists",
"title": "Cheap Eats, Cheap Labor: The Hidden Human Costs Of Those Lists",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Everyone loves a cheap eats list. A treasure map to $1 tacos! $4 banh mi! $6 pad Thai! More often than not, the Xs that mark the cheap spots are in the city's immigrant enclaves. Indeed, food media is never so diverse as when it runs these lists, its pages fill with names of restaurateurs and chefs of color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These lists infuriate me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before I became a restaurant owner, I spent my childhood in my relatives' pho restaurants. Because of that, I have deep compassion for and understanding of the pressures facing immigrant restaurateurs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I watched my aunts and uncles work 16-hour days, only to charge cut-rate prices for their food. And I also witnessed the grueling hours that their employees put in, also at cut-rate wages. It is a cruel reality that immigrant enterprise is powered by the cheap labor of fellow immigrants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Restaurant workers are already among the \u003ca href=\"http://www.epi.org/publication/restaurant-workers/\">lowest paid workers\u003c/a> in America. Many full-time workers rely on public assistance to make ends meet. Often enough, restaurant workers could not afford to eat at the restaurants where they work. And at the bottom of this system are the employees of the restaurants on these cheap eats list.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>American enterprise has long been a gateway to the American dream for many immigrants. But much of it was also \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/opb/historydetectives/feature/indentured-servants-in-the-us/\">built on exploited labor\u003c/a>. Enslaved African-Americans built Southern plantations. Chinese immigrant workers built the railroads. Latino migrant farm workers are the backbone that turned California into America's agricultural powerhouse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This view of people of color as sources of \"cheap\" labor bleeds into our restaurant culture: Immigrant food is often expected to be cheap, because, implicitly, the labor that produces it is expected to be cheap, because that labor has historically been cheap. And so pulling together a \"cheap eats\" list rather than, say, an \"affordable eats\" list both invokes that history and reinforces it by prioritizing price at the expense of labor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At my restaurant, an appetizer of spring rolls is $7. A chicken banh mi with house-made mayo and a side of fries or slaw is $12. A chicken pho is $11. I use sustainably grown chickens; the vegetables are from the farmers market. My staff are paid well over minimum wage. Generally, though, my prices are compared not to other restaurants that use sustainable ingredients and work towards paying their workers a living wage, but to Vietnamese restaurants where bowls of pho run $7, banh mis are $3 (or you can buy two and get one free). And because of that focus on price above all else, I've been criticized for being too expensive. I've been told flatly by Yelpers, customers and food reviewers that my restaurant is too expensive \"for Vietnamese food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm fully aware of the irony here: My family and I came to the U.S. as refugees in the 1970s and '80s. My relatives, like so many immigrant entrepreneurs, did what they had to do with their restaurant to survive and created a business model that worked for their time. That business model became the dominant model. It continues to be the dominant model. That business model is the one the ultimately traps the entrepreneur who would like to break out of this mold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have worked hard to combat the underlying racism that drives so much of the \"celebration\" of \"cheap eats,\" and I believe that consumers and food media can play a large part in this fight. We need to rethink the very idea behind cheap eats lists. We need to recognize that the narratives we tell ourselves about immigrant resourcefulness and tenacity also makes us willfully blind to the human cost that makes the $3 banh mi possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These lists are part of a broader restaurant culture that devalues labor and ignores the consequences of that devaluation. And these lists make it difficult for immigrant businesses — and I include my own here — to break out of the trope that equates communities of color with cheap food and cheap labor. I don't see treasure in cheap eats. Restaurants where workers are paid fairly and the food respected? That's the true treasure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Diep Tran is the chef and owner of Good Girl Dinette, a popular Los Angeles diner serving local, seasonal Vietnamese comfort food.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This essay was crafted in response to a summit on racism and difference in food, staged at \u003ca href=\"http://rivendellwriterscolony.org/\">Rivendell Writers Colony\u003c/a> by \u003ca href=\"https://www.southernfoodways.org/\">The Southern Foodways Alliance \u003c/a>and \u003ca href=\"http://tonitiptonmartin.com/foundation/\">Soul Summit\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Those all-too-common lists of cheap places to eat are part of a broader restaurant culture that devalues immigrant labor and ignores the consequences, says commentator and restaurateur Diep Tran.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Everyone loves a cheap eats list. A treasure map to $1 tacos! $4 banh mi! $6 pad Thai! More often than not, the Xs that mark the cheap spots are in the city's immigrant enclaves. Indeed, food media is never so diverse as when it runs these lists, its pages fill with names of restaurateurs and chefs of color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These lists infuriate me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before I became a restaurant owner, I spent my childhood in my relatives' pho restaurants. Because of that, I have deep compassion for and understanding of the pressures facing immigrant restaurateurs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I watched my aunts and uncles work 16-hour days, only to charge cut-rate prices for their food. And I also witnessed the grueling hours that their employees put in, also at cut-rate wages. It is a cruel reality that immigrant enterprise is powered by the cheap labor of fellow immigrants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Restaurant workers are already among the \u003ca href=\"http://www.epi.org/publication/restaurant-workers/\">lowest paid workers\u003c/a> in America. Many full-time workers rely on public assistance to make ends meet. Often enough, restaurant workers could not afford to eat at the restaurants where they work. And at the bottom of this system are the employees of the restaurants on these cheap eats list.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>American enterprise has long been a gateway to the American dream for many immigrants. But much of it was also \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/opb/historydetectives/feature/indentured-servants-in-the-us/\">built on exploited labor\u003c/a>. Enslaved African-Americans built Southern plantations. Chinese immigrant workers built the railroads. Latino migrant farm workers are the backbone that turned California into America's agricultural powerhouse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This view of people of color as sources of \"cheap\" labor bleeds into our restaurant culture: Immigrant food is often expected to be cheap, because, implicitly, the labor that produces it is expected to be cheap, because that labor has historically been cheap. And so pulling together a \"cheap eats\" list rather than, say, an \"affordable eats\" list both invokes that history and reinforces it by prioritizing price at the expense of labor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At my restaurant, an appetizer of spring rolls is $7. A chicken banh mi with house-made mayo and a side of fries or slaw is $12. A chicken pho is $11. I use sustainably grown chickens; the vegetables are from the farmers market. My staff are paid well over minimum wage. Generally, though, my prices are compared not to other restaurants that use sustainable ingredients and work towards paying their workers a living wage, but to Vietnamese restaurants where bowls of pho run $7, banh mis are $3 (or you can buy two and get one free). And because of that focus on price above all else, I've been criticized for being too expensive. I've been told flatly by Yelpers, customers and food reviewers that my restaurant is too expensive \"for Vietnamese food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm fully aware of the irony here: My family and I came to the U.S. as refugees in the 1970s and '80s. My relatives, like so many immigrant entrepreneurs, did what they had to do with their restaurant to survive and created a business model that worked for their time. That business model became the dominant model. It continues to be the dominant model. That business model is the one the ultimately traps the entrepreneur who would like to break out of this mold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have worked hard to combat the underlying racism that drives so much of the \"celebration\" of \"cheap eats,\" and I believe that consumers and food media can play a large part in this fight. We need to rethink the very idea behind cheap eats lists. We need to recognize that the narratives we tell ourselves about immigrant resourcefulness and tenacity also makes us willfully blind to the human cost that makes the $3 banh mi possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These lists are part of a broader restaurant culture that devalues labor and ignores the consequences of that devaluation. And these lists make it difficult for immigrant businesses — and I include my own here — to break out of the trope that equates communities of color with cheap food and cheap labor. I don't see treasure in cheap eats. Restaurants where workers are paid fairly and the food respected? That's the true treasure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Diep Tran is the chef and owner of Good Girl Dinette, a popular Los Angeles diner serving local, seasonal Vietnamese comfort food.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This essay was crafted in response to a summit on racism and difference in food, staged at \u003ca href=\"http://rivendellwriterscolony.org/\">Rivendell Writers Colony\u003c/a> by \u003ca href=\"https://www.southernfoodways.org/\">The Southern Foodways Alliance \u003c/a>and \u003ca href=\"http://tonitiptonmartin.com/foundation/\">Soul Summit\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Saving The Planet, One Burger At A Time: This Juicy Patty Is Meat-Free",
"title": "Saving The Planet, One Burger At A Time: This Juicy Patty Is Meat-Free",
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"content": "\u003cp>Listen to the story on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/programs/weekend-edition-saturday/2017/02/11/514650882/weekend-edition-saturday-for-february-11-2017\" target=\"_blank\">Weekend Edition Saturday\u003c/a>:\u003cbr>\nhttps://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesat/2017/02/20170211_wesat_saving_the_planet_one_burger_at_a_time_this_juicy_patty_is_meat-free.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A Michelin-starred restaurant in New York City debuted a new dish last week that's getting a lot of buzz. It's a burger made entirely from plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This isn't just another veggie knock off. The rap is that this burger looks, cooks and even bleeds like the real thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Impossible Burger, as it's known, is the culmination of a dream for Pat Brown. For 25 years, Brown was a professor at Stanford University. He was one of the stars in his field, studying a range of biomedical topics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Genetics and genomics ... cancer research — nothing to do with food,\" says Brown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But about seven years ago, his work took a turn when, during a sabbatical, he decided to tackle what he saw as a really big problem for the planet: animal livestock farming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The use of animals as a technology for food production is the most destructive technology on Earth,\" Brown says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a strong position. But he says there's a lot of science to back him up.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>What It Takes To Make A Quarter-Pound Hamburger\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115244\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 462px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gr-burgers-462.gif\" alt=\"Source: J.L. Capper, Journal of Animal Science, December, 2011.\" width=\"462\" height=\"479\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115244\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Source: J.L. Capper, Journal of Animal Science, December, 2011. \u003ccite>(Credit: Producers: Eliza Barclay, Jessica Stoller-Conrad; Designer: Kevin Uhrmacher/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Think of all U.S. crop land. \u003ca href=\"http://www.environmentreports.com/change-your-diet-change-our-destiny/\">Two-thirds\u003c/a> of all the calories produced from the crops are used for animal feed to produce meat, dairy and other animal products. Livestock production also uses lots of water and is a major contributor to climate change. Animal farming produces \u003ca href=\"http://www.wri.org/blog/2016/04/sustainable-diets-what-you-need-know-12-charts\">about as many greenhouse gas emissions\u003c/a> as the entire Southern Hemisphere, for example.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ecological footprint of meat production is not sustainable, Brown argues. But the obvious problem is this: Billions of people around the world love meat. We've been eating it for thousands of years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You're not going to get people to change their diets. You know, stop eating meat, fish and dairy — ain't gonna happen,\" Brown says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, veggie burgers have been around a long time and they certainly haven't replaced beef in people's diets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, what Brown wanted was to literally re-create the taste of beef — without cows. So he started by deconstructing the composition of meat, down to the molecular level.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Why does meat taste like meat? We had to take on that question,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There had to be something that gave beef its unmistakable flavor. Early on, he and his team honed in on one compound in the blood of cows. It's called heme. You and I have it, too — in the hemoglobin in our blood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115238\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1998px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929.jpg\" alt=\"The Impossible Burger is made of textured wheat protein and potato protein. The fat comes from coconut oil. There's also soy protein and bits of konjac, which is a yam. But the key to its burger taste is the plant-based heme.\" width=\"1998\" height=\"1499\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115238\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929.jpg 1998w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1998px) 100vw, 1998px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Impossible Burger is made of textured wheat protein and potato protein. The fat comes from coconut oil. There's also soy protein and bits of konjac, which is a yam. But the key to its burger taste is the plant-based heme. \u003ccite>( Allison Aubrey/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Heme is responsible for the bloody flavor of raw meat, and you generate this explosion of flavor and raw meat when you cook it,\" Brown explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says discovering this was the key to his quest, because it turns out that plants have heme, too, but in very small amounts. For instance, soybeans have heme in their roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So to re-create the taste of beef, Brown had to figure out how to produce heme from plants in vast amounts. To do that, he and the scientists he works with isolated the gene that produces heme in soybeans and put it in yeast, which ferments in a big steel tank.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115239\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1998px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af.jpg\" alt=\"Heme is found in lots of plants, including the roots of soybeans. Impossible Foods has harnessed yeast to grow vast amounts of heme, which is what makes its burger taste so much like real beef.\" width=\"1998\" height=\"1499\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115239\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af.jpg 1998w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1998px) 100vw, 1998px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Heme is found in lots of plants, including the roots of soybeans. Impossible Foods has harnessed yeast to grow vast amounts of heme, which is what makes its burger taste so much like real beef. \u003ccite>(Allison Aubrey/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"It's just like making beer, basically,\" Brown says. \"You grow vast quantities of this. It's scalable and [has a] very low environmental footprint.\" The end result is a juicy burger made entirely from plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brown has lots of people excited about his burger. Bill Gates has invested in his start-up, Impossible Foods, which is already supplying burgers to seven high-end restaurants, including the Michelin-starred Public in New York City. Just last week, chef Brad Farmerie put Brown's burger on the menu at Public and a second restaurant where he's executive chef, Saxon + Parole.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Farmerie prepares one for me to sample. In the skillet, the patty looks remarkably similar to ground chuck. As he puts one in a hot pan, he tells me that, in addition to all that heme, the patty also contains bits of wheat and potato protein to add bulk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It looks, cooks and sizzles like beef,\" he says. \"And when I flip it over, you'll be amazed. It caramelizes like beef as well.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a few minutes in the pan, Farmerie nestles the burger in a bun and tops it with a béchamel sauce and truffle paste, then hands it to me to taste. Of course, with the star-chef treatment, it's undeniably delicious and, I can vouch, it's juicy like a real burger. \"I like it a lot — I think it has that nuttiness you get from good beef. I think it has great moisture, great mouthfeel,\" Farmerie says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Farmerie is known for his unusual and fancy meat offerings, like kangaroo and sweetbreads. So his customers weren't expecting a bleeding plant burger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115240\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1998px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec.jpg\" alt=\"Ashley Kleckner of Impossible Foods demonstrates to chef Brad Farmerie how the Impossible Burger is assembled.\" width=\"1998\" height=\"1499\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115240\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec.jpg 1998w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1998px) 100vw, 1998px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ashley Kleckner of Impossible Foods demonstrates to chef Brad Farmerie how the Impossible Burger is assembled. \u003ccite>(Allison Aubrey/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"This would be a surprising place to find it,\" says Phillip Duff, a customer sitting at the bar. At my request, he tries one. \"This is a tasty burger,\" he says, but he notices the texture is a little different. \"It kind of falls apart a bit.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The burger is on the Saxon + Parole menu for $17, which seems on par with other items on the menu. When I asked Duff how much he thought people would pay for it, he replied, \"I think this would sell about the same price as a regular burger.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To charge a premium, Duff says, the makers will have to work hard to tell the story that this burger is better for the Earth, because he doesn't think the taste alone will stand out for people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you never told people what's in the burger, Duff says, \"they quite literally would not know.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that's exactly what Pat Brown wants — for his burger to be so tasty that it's indistinguishable from a regular beef burger. He knows he has to bring the price down. Eventually he wants to out-compete beef, even if it takes him years to get there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next month Impossible Foods plans to debut the Impossible Burger at a regional burger chain based on the East Coast. At first, it'll only be sold at one location, but the goal is to expand to more franchises. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Pat Brown was a renowned biomedical researcher. But he left that to tackle what he saw as the biggest problem facing Earth: animal agriculture. His solution: a veggie burger so beef-like it bleeds.",
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"description": "Pat Brown was a renowned biomedical researcher. But he left that to tackle what he saw as the biggest problem facing Earth: animal agriculture. His solution: a veggie burger so beef-like it bleeds.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A Michelin-starred restaurant in New York City debuted a new dish last week that's getting a lot of buzz. It's a burger made entirely from plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This isn't just another veggie knock off. The rap is that this burger looks, cooks and even bleeds like the real thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Impossible Burger, as it's known, is the culmination of a dream for Pat Brown. For 25 years, Brown was a professor at Stanford University. He was one of the stars in his field, studying a range of biomedical topics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Genetics and genomics ... cancer research — nothing to do with food,\" says Brown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But about seven years ago, his work took a turn when, during a sabbatical, he decided to tackle what he saw as a really big problem for the planet: animal livestock farming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The use of animals as a technology for food production is the most destructive technology on Earth,\" Brown says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a strong position. But he says there's a lot of science to back him up.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>What It Takes To Make A Quarter-Pound Hamburger\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115244\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 462px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gr-burgers-462.gif\" alt=\"Source: J.L. Capper, Journal of Animal Science, December, 2011.\" width=\"462\" height=\"479\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115244\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Source: J.L. Capper, Journal of Animal Science, December, 2011. \u003ccite>(Credit: Producers: Eliza Barclay, Jessica Stoller-Conrad; Designer: Kevin Uhrmacher/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Think of all U.S. crop land. \u003ca href=\"http://www.environmentreports.com/change-your-diet-change-our-destiny/\">Two-thirds\u003c/a> of all the calories produced from the crops are used for animal feed to produce meat, dairy and other animal products. Livestock production also uses lots of water and is a major contributor to climate change. Animal farming produces \u003ca href=\"http://www.wri.org/blog/2016/04/sustainable-diets-what-you-need-know-12-charts\">about as many greenhouse gas emissions\u003c/a> as the entire Southern Hemisphere, for example.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ecological footprint of meat production is not sustainable, Brown argues. But the obvious problem is this: Billions of people around the world love meat. We've been eating it for thousands of years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You're not going to get people to change their diets. You know, stop eating meat, fish and dairy — ain't gonna happen,\" Brown says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, veggie burgers have been around a long time and they certainly haven't replaced beef in people's diets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, what Brown wanted was to literally re-create the taste of beef — without cows. So he started by deconstructing the composition of meat, down to the molecular level.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Why does meat taste like meat? We had to take on that question,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There had to be something that gave beef its unmistakable flavor. Early on, he and his team honed in on one compound in the blood of cows. It's called heme. You and I have it, too — in the hemoglobin in our blood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115238\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1998px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929.jpg\" alt=\"The Impossible Burger is made of textured wheat protein and potato protein. The fat comes from coconut oil. There's also soy protein and bits of konjac, which is a yam. But the key to its burger taste is the plant-based heme.\" width=\"1998\" height=\"1499\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115238\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929.jpg 1998w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3483-a39e824de6a2c48ab03b02375ead7a41bc39d929-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1998px) 100vw, 1998px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Impossible Burger is made of textured wheat protein and potato protein. The fat comes from coconut oil. There's also soy protein and bits of konjac, which is a yam. But the key to its burger taste is the plant-based heme. \u003ccite>( Allison Aubrey/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Heme is responsible for the bloody flavor of raw meat, and you generate this explosion of flavor and raw meat when you cook it,\" Brown explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says discovering this was the key to his quest, because it turns out that plants have heme, too, but in very small amounts. For instance, soybeans have heme in their roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So to re-create the taste of beef, Brown had to figure out how to produce heme from plants in vast amounts. To do that, he and the scientists he works with isolated the gene that produces heme in soybeans and put it in yeast, which ferments in a big steel tank.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115239\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1998px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af.jpg\" alt=\"Heme is found in lots of plants, including the roots of soybeans. Impossible Foods has harnessed yeast to grow vast amounts of heme, which is what makes its burger taste so much like real beef.\" width=\"1998\" height=\"1499\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115239\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af.jpg 1998w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3487-7f378c7e8cea1a38b15c64645cc8701798f850af-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1998px) 100vw, 1998px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Heme is found in lots of plants, including the roots of soybeans. Impossible Foods has harnessed yeast to grow vast amounts of heme, which is what makes its burger taste so much like real beef. \u003ccite>(Allison Aubrey/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"It's just like making beer, basically,\" Brown says. \"You grow vast quantities of this. It's scalable and [has a] very low environmental footprint.\" The end result is a juicy burger made entirely from plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brown has lots of people excited about his burger. Bill Gates has invested in his start-up, Impossible Foods, which is already supplying burgers to seven high-end restaurants, including the Michelin-starred Public in New York City. Just last week, chef Brad Farmerie put Brown's burger on the menu at Public and a second restaurant where he's executive chef, Saxon + Parole.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Farmerie prepares one for me to sample. In the skillet, the patty looks remarkably similar to ground chuck. As he puts one in a hot pan, he tells me that, in addition to all that heme, the patty also contains bits of wheat and potato protein to add bulk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It looks, cooks and sizzles like beef,\" he says. \"And when I flip it over, you'll be amazed. It caramelizes like beef as well.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a few minutes in the pan, Farmerie nestles the burger in a bun and tops it with a béchamel sauce and truffle paste, then hands it to me to taste. Of course, with the star-chef treatment, it's undeniably delicious and, I can vouch, it's juicy like a real burger. \"I like it a lot — I think it has that nuttiness you get from good beef. I think it has great moisture, great mouthfeel,\" Farmerie says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Farmerie is known for his unusual and fancy meat offerings, like kangaroo and sweetbreads. So his customers weren't expecting a bleeding plant burger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115240\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1998px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec.jpg\" alt=\"Ashley Kleckner of Impossible Foods demonstrates to chef Brad Farmerie how the Impossible Burger is assembled.\" width=\"1998\" height=\"1499\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115240\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec.jpg 1998w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_3485_1-96604e430ec1c44782758525e7119e7d6a0a5dec-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1998px) 100vw, 1998px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ashley Kleckner of Impossible Foods demonstrates to chef Brad Farmerie how the Impossible Burger is assembled. \u003ccite>(Allison Aubrey/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"This would be a surprising place to find it,\" says Phillip Duff, a customer sitting at the bar. At my request, he tries one. \"This is a tasty burger,\" he says, but he notices the texture is a little different. \"It kind of falls apart a bit.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The burger is on the Saxon + Parole menu for $17, which seems on par with other items on the menu. When I asked Duff how much he thought people would pay for it, he replied, \"I think this would sell about the same price as a regular burger.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To charge a premium, Duff says, the makers will have to work hard to tell the story that this burger is better for the Earth, because he doesn't think the taste alone will stand out for people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you never told people what's in the burger, Duff says, \"they quite literally would not know.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that's exactly what Pat Brown wants — for his burger to be so tasty that it's indistinguishable from a regular beef burger. He knows he has to bring the price down. Eventually he wants to out-compete beef, even if it takes him years to get there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next month Impossible Foods plans to debut the Impossible Burger at a regional burger chain based on the East Coast. At first, it'll only be sold at one location, but the goal is to expand to more franchises. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Noodle Soups Share Cambodian Culture at Nyum Bai",
"title": "Noodle Soups Share Cambodian Culture at Nyum Bai",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>It’s only the second day of business at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nyumbai.com/#new-page-1\">Nyum Bai\u003c/a>, a new Cambodian noodle spot in \u003ca href=\"http://publicmarketemeryville.com/\">Emeryville’s Public Market,\u003c/a> but owner Nite Yun is sadly putting up a “Closed for the Day” sign after lunchtime. The reason behind the temporary closure is actually a positive one: such a throng of enthusiastic customers came to sample her traditional noodle soups that she ran out of food long before dinner. Pointing to the massive metal pots on her range top, Yun says, “These were supposed to make hundreds of servings of soup. I guess I’ll have to get another pot.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115217\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot.jpg\" alt=\"Nite needs another pot.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115217\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite needs another pot. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Yun’s goal is to introduce Americans to Cambodian culture through some of its lesser-known dishes, especially noodle soups called \u003cem>kuy teav\u003c/em>, which feature aromatic broths sprinkled with fresh herbs and crunchy toppings and are sold in street stalls all over Cambodia. At Nyum Bai, her new food stand in Emeryville’s Public Market, Nite Yun now prepares them daily.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115218\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh.jpg\" alt=\"The Phnom Penh features rice noodles, sliced and ground pork in a rich pork and shrimp broth, garnished with crispy garlic, cilantro, scallions and bean sprouts.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115218\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Phnom Penh features rice noodles, sliced and ground pork in a rich pork and shrimp broth, garnished with crispy garlic, cilantro, scallions and bean sprouts. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Public Market had reached out to \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org\">La Cocina\u003c/a>, the nonprofit that helps food entrepreneurs, primarily immigrant women and women of color to formalize and grow their businesses. Nite Yun learned of the opportunity to try out this temporary space from her involvement with La Cocina and the organization also helped her negotiate an affordable lease.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yun had a desire to share her family’s heritage through her unique offerings of typical Cambodian street food dishes. Her parents had fled the brutality of the Khmer Rouge and resulting genocide (that killed an estimated two million people) and escaped to Thailand, where Yun was born in a refugee camp. A few years later, with a church group’s sponsorship, her family moved to Stockton, California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although they were now safe in America, like many refugees before them, her parents felt more comfortable primarily associating with the Cambodian community around Stockton. Her father never mastered English. Her mother worked as a seamstress at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Even though I grew up in the U.S.,” Yun says, “I felt I was Cambodian. I spoke Cambodian, only ate the Cambodian foods my mother cooked. My family would sit on the floor and eat rice with dried fish. I thought everyone did.” The apartment was so small, that the family of five was basically always together. So when her mother cooked, Yun would join her in the kitchen and help chop lemongrass or garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115219\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko.jpg\" alt=\"Koh-ko pairs hearty beef broth with egg noodles, braised beef, bok choy, crispy garlic, red onion, and cilantro.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115219\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko-1180x1574.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Koh-ko pairs hearty beef broth with egg noodles, braised beef, bok choy, crispy garlic, red onion, and cilantro. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When she moved to San Francisco to study nursing at San Francisco State, she yearned for home-cooked Cambodian food, but couldn’t find any place that served it. “That’s when I started to really get into cooking. I’d call my mom up for a recipe, but of course, she didn’t really measure things. She would tell me to use ‘a pinkie-size’ of this or ‘a small bowl’ of that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a child, Yun often felt frustrated with her parents’ lack of openness about their earlier lives in Cambodia. They didn’t want to talk about or dwell on the trauma they had survived. It left her with a lot of unanswered questions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Six years ago, Yun returned alone to Cambodia to meet her aunts and cousins, find out about her parents’ past -- and eat. On her third trip to Cambodia, while she was sitting at a noodle stall, the idea came to her: to share her Cambodian culture through home-style food. She returned to the Bay Area, started cooking for friends and eventually entered La Cocina’s food incubator program in 2015.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now she has the opportunity to serve some of her favorite dishes, including a trio of \u003cem>kuy teav\u003c/em> noodles. The Phnom Penh features rice noodles, sliced and ground pork in a rich pork and shrimp broth, garnished with crispy garlic, cilantro, scallions and bean sprouts. Koh-ko pairs hearty beef broth with egg noodles, braised beef, bok choy, crispy garlic, red onion, and cilantro. For vegetarians, Ban Lai combines rice noodles and tofu in a mushroom leek broth, with seasonal vegetables, crispy garlic, cilantro, scallions and bean sprouts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115220\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai.jpg\" alt=\"For vegetarians, Ban Lai combines rice noodles and tofu in a mushroom leek broth, with seasonal vegetables, crispy garlic, cilantro, scallions and bean sprouts.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115220\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai-1180x1574.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">For vegetarians, Ban Lai combines rice noodles and tofu in a mushroom leek broth, with seasonal vegetables, crispy garlic, cilantro, scallions and bean sprouts. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Yun also serves stir–fried rice noodles with tamarind sauce topped with an egg omelet and a coconut rice plate with fried scallions, pork and crispy egg -- a dish she says she would often buy for breakfast in Cambodia for only $1. In the coming weeks, she plans to add daily specials to introduce diners to new Cambodian tastes plus daily Cambodian desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nostalgic for an era she did not personally experience, Yun says, “I always knew I wanted to share Cambodian culture. But not only focus on the genocide and what we’ve gone through. I want to celebrate the good times, like the golden era (1960-65) when the art and music were awesome, there was abundance and my parents were young and carefree.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yun hasn’t graduated yet from La Cocina’s incubator program and is getting a lot of support from them. “Opening a restaurant has been overwhelming,” she says. “There is so much to learn. How to train my staff, how to streamline the production line and definitely how not to run out of food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She hasn’t actually told her parents, who still live in Stockton, that Nyum Bai is open yet. “I’ll tell them in a couple of weeks, “ she says, “when I get it all down, so that I’ll be able to cook lunch and speak to my mother at the same time.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115221\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai's sign invites patron to eat.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115221\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN-1180x1574.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai's sign invites patron to eat. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cambodian people who heard about this venture were so excited that they dropped by the tucked away location in the Public Market before it even opened just to take photos in front of their sign. “Nyum Bai literally means ‘eat rice,’ “Yun explains, “but really that’s the way that you call guests to the table. It’s our way of saying, ‘Let’s eat!’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115222\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun and her team hard at work.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115222\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun and her team hard at work. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://nyumbai.com\">\u003cstrong>Nyum Bai\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://publicmarketemeryville.com/\">Emeryville Public Market\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n5959 Shellmound St., Kiosk 3\u003cbr>\nEmeryville, CA 94608\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 317-0867\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat 11am-8pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Nyum-Bai-740716862679696/?hc_ref=SEARCH&fref=nf\">Nyum Bai\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/nyumbai\">@nyumbai\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/nyumbai/?hl=en\">nyumbai\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Cambodian noodle soups make a big splash at newly opened Nyum Bai in Emeryville's Public Market. Nite Yun wants to share her culture by sharing her favorite Cambodian street food.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>It’s only the second day of business at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nyumbai.com/#new-page-1\">Nyum Bai\u003c/a>, a new Cambodian noodle spot in \u003ca href=\"http://publicmarketemeryville.com/\">Emeryville’s Public Market,\u003c/a> but owner Nite Yun is sadly putting up a “Closed for the Day” sign after lunchtime. The reason behind the temporary closure is actually a positive one: such a throng of enthusiastic customers came to sample her traditional noodle soups that she ran out of food long before dinner. Pointing to the massive metal pots on her range top, Yun says, “These were supposed to make hundreds of servings of soup. I guess I’ll have to get another pot.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115217\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot.jpg\" alt=\"Nite needs another pot.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115217\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/2-Nite-Yun-needs-another-pot-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite needs another pot. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Yun’s goal is to introduce Americans to Cambodian culture through some of its lesser-known dishes, especially noodle soups called \u003cem>kuy teav\u003c/em>, which feature aromatic broths sprinkled with fresh herbs and crunchy toppings and are sold in street stalls all over Cambodia. At Nyum Bai, her new food stand in Emeryville’s Public Market, Nite Yun now prepares them daily.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115218\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh.jpg\" alt=\"The Phnom Penh features rice noodles, sliced and ground pork in a rich pork and shrimp broth, garnished with crispy garlic, cilantro, scallions and bean sprouts.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115218\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/3-phnom-penh-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Phnom Penh features rice noodles, sliced and ground pork in a rich pork and shrimp broth, garnished with crispy garlic, cilantro, scallions and bean sprouts. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Public Market had reached out to \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org\">La Cocina\u003c/a>, the nonprofit that helps food entrepreneurs, primarily immigrant women and women of color to formalize and grow their businesses. Nite Yun learned of the opportunity to try out this temporary space from her involvement with La Cocina and the organization also helped her negotiate an affordable lease.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yun had a desire to share her family’s heritage through her unique offerings of typical Cambodian street food dishes. Her parents had fled the brutality of the Khmer Rouge and resulting genocide (that killed an estimated two million people) and escaped to Thailand, where Yun was born in a refugee camp. A few years later, with a church group’s sponsorship, her family moved to Stockton, California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although they were now safe in America, like many refugees before them, her parents felt more comfortable primarily associating with the Cambodian community around Stockton. Her father never mastered English. Her mother worked as a seamstress at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Even though I grew up in the U.S.,” Yun says, “I felt I was Cambodian. I spoke Cambodian, only ate the Cambodian foods my mother cooked. My family would sit on the floor and eat rice with dried fish. I thought everyone did.” The apartment was so small, that the family of five was basically always together. So when her mother cooked, Yun would join her in the kitchen and help chop lemongrass or garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115219\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko.jpg\" alt=\"Koh-ko pairs hearty beef broth with egg noodles, braised beef, bok choy, crispy garlic, red onion, and cilantro.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115219\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko-1180x1574.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/4-koh-ko-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Koh-ko pairs hearty beef broth with egg noodles, braised beef, bok choy, crispy garlic, red onion, and cilantro. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When she moved to San Francisco to study nursing at San Francisco State, she yearned for home-cooked Cambodian food, but couldn’t find any place that served it. “That’s when I started to really get into cooking. I’d call my mom up for a recipe, but of course, she didn’t really measure things. She would tell me to use ‘a pinkie-size’ of this or ‘a small bowl’ of that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a child, Yun often felt frustrated with her parents’ lack of openness about their earlier lives in Cambodia. They didn’t want to talk about or dwell on the trauma they had survived. It left her with a lot of unanswered questions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Six years ago, Yun returned alone to Cambodia to meet her aunts and cousins, find out about her parents’ past -- and eat. On her third trip to Cambodia, while she was sitting at a noodle stall, the idea came to her: to share her Cambodian culture through home-style food. She returned to the Bay Area, started cooking for friends and eventually entered La Cocina’s food incubator program in 2015.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now she has the opportunity to serve some of her favorite dishes, including a trio of \u003cem>kuy teav\u003c/em> noodles. The Phnom Penh features rice noodles, sliced and ground pork in a rich pork and shrimp broth, garnished with crispy garlic, cilantro, scallions and bean sprouts. Koh-ko pairs hearty beef broth with egg noodles, braised beef, bok choy, crispy garlic, red onion, and cilantro. For vegetarians, Ban Lai combines rice noodles and tofu in a mushroom leek broth, with seasonal vegetables, crispy garlic, cilantro, scallions and bean sprouts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115220\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai.jpg\" alt=\"For vegetarians, Ban Lai combines rice noodles and tofu in a mushroom leek broth, with seasonal vegetables, crispy garlic, cilantro, scallions and bean sprouts.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115220\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai-1180x1574.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/5-ban-lai-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">For vegetarians, Ban Lai combines rice noodles and tofu in a mushroom leek broth, with seasonal vegetables, crispy garlic, cilantro, scallions and bean sprouts. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Yun also serves stir–fried rice noodles with tamarind sauce topped with an egg omelet and a coconut rice plate with fried scallions, pork and crispy egg -- a dish she says she would often buy for breakfast in Cambodia for only $1. In the coming weeks, she plans to add daily specials to introduce diners to new Cambodian tastes plus daily Cambodian desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nostalgic for an era she did not personally experience, Yun says, “I always knew I wanted to share Cambodian culture. But not only focus on the genocide and what we’ve gone through. I want to celebrate the good times, like the golden era (1960-65) when the art and music were awesome, there was abundance and my parents were young and carefree.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yun hasn’t graduated yet from La Cocina’s incubator program and is getting a lot of support from them. “Opening a restaurant has been overwhelming,” she says. “There is so much to learn. How to train my staff, how to streamline the production line and definitely how not to run out of food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She hasn’t actually told her parents, who still live in Stockton, that Nyum Bai is open yet. “I’ll tell them in a couple of weeks, “ she says, “when I get it all down, so that I’ll be able to cook lunch and speak to my mother at the same time.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115221\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai's sign invites patron to eat.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115221\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN-1180x1574.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/NYUM-BAI-SIGN-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai's sign invites patron to eat. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cambodian people who heard about this venture were so excited that they dropped by the tucked away location in the Public Market before it even opened just to take photos in front of their sign. “Nyum Bai literally means ‘eat rice,’ “Yun explains, “but really that’s the way that you call guests to the table. It’s our way of saying, ‘Let’s eat!’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115222\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun and her team hard at work.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115222\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/teamwork-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun and her team hard at work. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://nyumbai.com\">\u003cstrong>Nyum Bai\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://publicmarketemeryville.com/\">Emeryville Public Market\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n5959 Shellmound St., Kiosk 3\u003cbr>\nEmeryville, CA 94608\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 317-0867\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat 11am-8pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Nyum-Bai-740716862679696/?hc_ref=SEARCH&fref=nf\">Nyum Bai\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/nyumbai\">@nyumbai\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/nyumbai/?hl=en\">nyumbai\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Frederick Douglass On How Slave Owners Used Food As A Weapon Of Control",
"title": "Frederick Douglass On How Slave Owners Used Food As A Weapon Of Control",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>President Trump recently described Frederick Douglass as \"an example of somebody who's done an amazing job and is being recognized more and more, I notice.\" The president's muddled tense – it came out sounding as if the 19th-century abolitionist were alive with a galloping Twitter following – provoked some mirth on social media. But the spotlight on one of America's great moral heroes is a welcome one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Douglass was born on a plantation in Eastern Maryland in 1817 or 1818 – he did not know his birthday, much less have a long-form birth certificate – to a black mother (from whom he was separated as a boy) and a white father (whom he never knew and who was likely the \"master\" of the house). He was parceled out to serve different members of the family. His childhood was marked by hunger and cold, and his teen years passed in one long stretch of hard labor, coma-like fatigue, routine floggings, hunger, and other commonplace tortures from the slavery handbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At 20, he ran away to New York and started his new life as an anti-slavery orator and activist. Acutely conscious of being a literary witness to the inhumane institution he had escaped, he made sure to document his life in not one but three autobiographies. His memoirs bring alive the immoral mechanics of slavery and its weapons of control. Chief among them: food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hunger was the young Fred's faithful boyhood companion. \"I have often been so pinched with hunger, that I have fought with the dog – 'Old Nep' – for the smallest crumbs that fell from the kitchen table, and have been glad when I won a single crumb in the combat,\" he wrote in \u003ca href=\"http://onlinebooks.library.upenn.edu/webbin/gutbook/lookup?num=202\">My Bondage and My Freedom\u003c/a>\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>\"Many times have I followed, with eager step, the waiting-girl when she went out to shake the table cloth, to get the crumbs and small bones flung out for the cats.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115200\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-1020x1360.jpg\" alt=\"As a young enslaved boy in Baltimore, Frederick Douglass bartered pieces of bread for lessons in literacy. His teachers were white neighborhood kids, who could read and write but had no food. At 20, he ran away to New York and started his new life as an anti-slavery orator and activist.\" width=\"640\" height=\"853\" class=\"size-large wp-image-115200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-1180x1574.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">As a young enslaved boy in Baltimore, Frederick Douglass bartered pieces of bread for lessons in literacy. His teachers were white neighborhood kids, who could read and write but had no food. At 20, he ran away to New York and started his new life as an anti-slavery orator and activist. \u003ccite>(Hulton Archive/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Never mind, honey—better day comin,' \" the elders would say to solace the orphaned boy. It was not just the family pets the child had to compete with. One of the most debasing scenes in Douglass' first memoir, \u003ca href=\"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/23/23-h/23-h.htm\">Narrative of the Life of Frederick Douglass\u003c/a>\u003cem>,\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>describes the way he ate:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"Our food was coarse corn meal boiled. This was called \u003cem>mush\u003c/em>. It was put into a large wooden tray or trough, and set down upon the ground. The children were then called, like so many pigs, and like so many pigs they would come and devour the mush; some with oyster-shells, others with pieces of shingle, some with naked hands, and none with spoons. He that ate fastest got most; he that was strongest secured the best place; and few left the trough satisfied.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Douglass makes it a point to nail the boastful lie put out by slaveholders – one that persists to this day – that \"their slaves enjoy more of the physical comforts of life than the peasantry of any country in the world.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In truth, rations consisted of a monthly allowance of a bushel of third-rate corn, pickled pork (which was \"often tainted\") and \"poorest quality herrings\" – barely enough to sustain grown men and women through their backbreaking labors in the field. Not all the enslaved, however, were so ill-fed. Waiting at the \"glittering table of the great house\" – a table loaded with the choicest meats, the bounty of the Chesapeake Bay, platters of fruit, asparagus, celery and cauliflower, cheese, butter, cream and the finest wines and brandies from France – was a group of black servants chosen for their loyalty and comely looks. These glossy servants constituted \"a sort of black aristocracy,\" wrote Douglass. By elevating them, the slave owner was playing the old divide-and-rule trick, and it worked. The difference, Douglass wrote, \"between these favored few, and the sorrow and hunger-smitten multitudes of the quarter and the field, was immense.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"hunger-smitten multitudes\" did what they could to supplement their scanty diets. \"They did this by hunting, fishing, growing their own vegetables – or stealing,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.fredopie.com/\">Frederick Douglass Opie\u003c/a>, professor of history and foodways at Babson College, who, of course, is named after the activist. \"In their moral universe, they felt, 'You stole me, you mistreated me, therefore to steal from you is quite normal.' \" If caught, say, eating an orange from the owner's abundant fruit garden, the punishment was flogging. When even this proved futile, a tar fence was erected around the forbidden fruit. Anyone whose body bore the merest trace of tar was brutally whipped by the chief gardener.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if deprivation was one form of control, a far more insidious and malicious one was the annual Christmas holidays, where gluttony and binge drinking was almost mandatory. During those six days, the enslaved could do what they chose, and while a few spent time with distant family or hunting or working on their homes, most were happy to engage in playing sports, \"fiddling, dancing, and drinking whiskey; and this latter mode of spending the time was by far the most agreeable to the feelings of our masters. ... It was deemed a disgrace not to get drunk at Christmas.\" To encourage whiskey benders, the \"masters\" took bets to see who could drink the most whiskey, thus \"getting whole multitudes to drink to excess.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115201\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-1020x1466.jpe\" alt=\"Frederick Douglass, circa 1879.\" width=\"640\" height=\"920\" class=\"size-large wp-image-115201\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-1020x1466.jpe 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-160x230.jpe 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-800x1149.jpe 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-768x1103.jpe 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-1180x1695.jpe 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-960x1379.jpe 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-240x345.jpe 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-375x539.jpe 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-520x747.jpe 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Frederick Douglass, circa 1879. \u003ccite>(George Warren/National Archives)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The nefarious aim of these revels was to equate dissipation with liberty. At the end of the holidays, sickened by the excessive alcohol, the hungover men felt \"that we had almost as well be slaves to man as to rum.\" And so, Douglass wrote, \"we staggered up from the filth of our wallowing, took a long breath, and marched to the field – feeling, upon the whole, rather glad to go, from what our master had deceived us into a belief was freedom, back to the arms of slavery.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Douglass sounds even angrier at these obligatory orgies – he calls them \"part and parcel of the gross fraud, wrong, and inhumanity of slavery\" – than at other, more direct forms of cruelty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was a form of bread and circus,\" says Opie. \"Slaves were also given intoxicated drinks, so they would have little time to think of escaping. If you didn't take it, you were considered ungrateful. It was a form of social control.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When he was about 8 years old, Douglass was sent to Baltimore, which proved to be a turning point. The mistress of the house gave him the most precious gift in his life – she taught him the alphabet. But when her husband forbade her to continue – teaching slaves to read and write was a crime – she immediately stopped his lessons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was too late. The little boy had been given a peek into the transformative world of words and was desperate to learn. He did so by bartering pieces of bread – he had free access to it; in Baltimore, the urban codes of slavery were less harsh than in rural Maryland – for lessons in literacy. His teachers were white neighborhood kids, who could read and write but had no food. \"This bread I used to bestow upon the hungry little urchins, who, in return, would give me that more valuable bread of knowledge,\" Douglass wrote in one of the most moving lines in \u003cem>Narrative\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This also shows the ingenuity of enslaved people,\" says Opie, \"and how they tricked and leveraged whatever little they had to get ahead.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, when one thinks of Frederick Douglass, the image that springs to mind is of a distinguished, gray-haired man in a double-breasted suit. It is difficult to imagine him as a half-starved boy garbed in nothing but a coarse, knee-length shirt, sleeping on the floor in a corn sack he had stolen. As he wrote in \u003cem>Narrative\u003c/em>, \"My feet have been so cracked with the frost, that the pen with which I am writing might be laid in the gashes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is a heartbreaking image – redeemed by one little word, \"pen.\" A pen that he wielded with passion, clarity and irony to gash the life out of slavery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a>\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003cem>is a journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Hunger was Douglass' constant companion as a boy. As a young man, he escaped slavery and became a heroic abolitionist who revealed how food was a key tool in the immoral mechanics of slavery.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>President Trump recently described Frederick Douglass as \"an example of somebody who's done an amazing job and is being recognized more and more, I notice.\" The president's muddled tense – it came out sounding as if the 19th-century abolitionist were alive with a galloping Twitter following – provoked some mirth on social media. But the spotlight on one of America's great moral heroes is a welcome one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Douglass was born on a plantation in Eastern Maryland in 1817 or 1818 – he did not know his birthday, much less have a long-form birth certificate – to a black mother (from whom he was separated as a boy) and a white father (whom he never knew and who was likely the \"master\" of the house). He was parceled out to serve different members of the family. His childhood was marked by hunger and cold, and his teen years passed in one long stretch of hard labor, coma-like fatigue, routine floggings, hunger, and other commonplace tortures from the slavery handbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At 20, he ran away to New York and started his new life as an anti-slavery orator and activist. Acutely conscious of being a literary witness to the inhumane institution he had escaped, he made sure to document his life in not one but three autobiographies. His memoirs bring alive the immoral mechanics of slavery and its weapons of control. Chief among them: food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hunger was the young Fred's faithful boyhood companion. \"I have often been so pinched with hunger, that I have fought with the dog – 'Old Nep' – for the smallest crumbs that fell from the kitchen table, and have been glad when I won a single crumb in the combat,\" he wrote in \u003ca href=\"http://onlinebooks.library.upenn.edu/webbin/gutbook/lookup?num=202\">My Bondage and My Freedom\u003c/a>\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>\"Many times have I followed, with eager step, the waiting-girl when she went out to shake the table cloth, to get the crumbs and small bones flung out for the cats.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115200\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-1020x1360.jpg\" alt=\"As a young enslaved boy in Baltimore, Frederick Douglass bartered pieces of bread for lessons in literacy. His teachers were white neighborhood kids, who could read and write but had no food. At 20, he ran away to New York and started his new life as an anti-slavery orator and activist.\" width=\"640\" height=\"853\" class=\"size-large wp-image-115200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-1180x1574.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/gettyimages-2663655_custom-c7f0255bbf2f6e3dfe154040dd87efb53c6bf7cf-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">As a young enslaved boy in Baltimore, Frederick Douglass bartered pieces of bread for lessons in literacy. His teachers were white neighborhood kids, who could read and write but had no food. At 20, he ran away to New York and started his new life as an anti-slavery orator and activist. \u003ccite>(Hulton Archive/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Never mind, honey—better day comin,' \" the elders would say to solace the orphaned boy. It was not just the family pets the child had to compete with. One of the most debasing scenes in Douglass' first memoir, \u003ca href=\"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/23/23-h/23-h.htm\">Narrative of the Life of Frederick Douglass\u003c/a>\u003cem>,\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>describes the way he ate:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"Our food was coarse corn meal boiled. This was called \u003cem>mush\u003c/em>. It was put into a large wooden tray or trough, and set down upon the ground. The children were then called, like so many pigs, and like so many pigs they would come and devour the mush; some with oyster-shells, others with pieces of shingle, some with naked hands, and none with spoons. He that ate fastest got most; he that was strongest secured the best place; and few left the trough satisfied.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Douglass makes it a point to nail the boastful lie put out by slaveholders – one that persists to this day – that \"their slaves enjoy more of the physical comforts of life than the peasantry of any country in the world.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In truth, rations consisted of a monthly allowance of a bushel of third-rate corn, pickled pork (which was \"often tainted\") and \"poorest quality herrings\" – barely enough to sustain grown men and women through their backbreaking labors in the field. Not all the enslaved, however, were so ill-fed. Waiting at the \"glittering table of the great house\" – a table loaded with the choicest meats, the bounty of the Chesapeake Bay, platters of fruit, asparagus, celery and cauliflower, cheese, butter, cream and the finest wines and brandies from France – was a group of black servants chosen for their loyalty and comely looks. These glossy servants constituted \"a sort of black aristocracy,\" wrote Douglass. By elevating them, the slave owner was playing the old divide-and-rule trick, and it worked. The difference, Douglass wrote, \"between these favored few, and the sorrow and hunger-smitten multitudes of the quarter and the field, was immense.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"hunger-smitten multitudes\" did what they could to supplement their scanty diets. \"They did this by hunting, fishing, growing their own vegetables – or stealing,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.fredopie.com/\">Frederick Douglass Opie\u003c/a>, professor of history and foodways at Babson College, who, of course, is named after the activist. \"In their moral universe, they felt, 'You stole me, you mistreated me, therefore to steal from you is quite normal.' \" If caught, say, eating an orange from the owner's abundant fruit garden, the punishment was flogging. When even this proved futile, a tar fence was erected around the forbidden fruit. Anyone whose body bore the merest trace of tar was brutally whipped by the chief gardener.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if deprivation was one form of control, a far more insidious and malicious one was the annual Christmas holidays, where gluttony and binge drinking was almost mandatory. During those six days, the enslaved could do what they chose, and while a few spent time with distant family or hunting or working on their homes, most were happy to engage in playing sports, \"fiddling, dancing, and drinking whiskey; and this latter mode of spending the time was by far the most agreeable to the feelings of our masters. ... It was deemed a disgrace not to get drunk at Christmas.\" To encourage whiskey benders, the \"masters\" took bets to see who could drink the most whiskey, thus \"getting whole multitudes to drink to excess.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115201\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-1020x1466.jpe\" alt=\"Frederick Douglass, circa 1879.\" width=\"640\" height=\"920\" class=\"size-large wp-image-115201\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-1020x1466.jpe 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-160x230.jpe 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-800x1149.jpe 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-768x1103.jpe 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-1180x1695.jpe 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-960x1379.jpe 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-240x345.jpe 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-375x539.jpe 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/frederick_douglass_portrait_custom-a8e22b52180c1608c71dbab0849f660ecf3ef999-520x747.jpe 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Frederick Douglass, circa 1879. \u003ccite>(George Warren/National Archives)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The nefarious aim of these revels was to equate dissipation with liberty. At the end of the holidays, sickened by the excessive alcohol, the hungover men felt \"that we had almost as well be slaves to man as to rum.\" And so, Douglass wrote, \"we staggered up from the filth of our wallowing, took a long breath, and marched to the field – feeling, upon the whole, rather glad to go, from what our master had deceived us into a belief was freedom, back to the arms of slavery.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Douglass sounds even angrier at these obligatory orgies – he calls them \"part and parcel of the gross fraud, wrong, and inhumanity of slavery\" – than at other, more direct forms of cruelty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was a form of bread and circus,\" says Opie. \"Slaves were also given intoxicated drinks, so they would have little time to think of escaping. If you didn't take it, you were considered ungrateful. It was a form of social control.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When he was about 8 years old, Douglass was sent to Baltimore, which proved to be a turning point. The mistress of the house gave him the most precious gift in his life – she taught him the alphabet. But when her husband forbade her to continue – teaching slaves to read and write was a crime – she immediately stopped his lessons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was too late. The little boy had been given a peek into the transformative world of words and was desperate to learn. He did so by bartering pieces of bread – he had free access to it; in Baltimore, the urban codes of slavery were less harsh than in rural Maryland – for lessons in literacy. His teachers were white neighborhood kids, who could read and write but had no food. \"This bread I used to bestow upon the hungry little urchins, who, in return, would give me that more valuable bread of knowledge,\" Douglass wrote in one of the most moving lines in \u003cem>Narrative\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This also shows the ingenuity of enslaved people,\" says Opie, \"and how they tricked and leveraged whatever little they had to get ahead.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, when one thinks of Frederick Douglass, the image that springs to mind is of a distinguished, gray-haired man in a double-breasted suit. It is difficult to imagine him as a half-starved boy garbed in nothing but a coarse, knee-length shirt, sleeping on the floor in a corn sack he had stolen. As he wrote in \u003cem>Narrative\u003c/em>, \"My feet have been so cracked with the frost, that the pen with which I am writing might be laid in the gashes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is a heartbreaking image – redeemed by one little word, \"pen.\" A pen that he wielded with passion, clarity and irony to gash the life out of slavery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a>\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003cem>is a journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Amid Travel Ban Debate, Chefs And Food Brands Take A Stand On Immigration",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttps://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2017/02/20170208_atc_sanctuary_restaurants.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Customers who walked through the door of \u003ca href=\"http://www.everymanespresso.com/about/\">Everyman Espresso\u003c/a>, a cafe in New York's East Village, last weekend got a pitch at the check-out counter to support a fundraiser to help defend immigrants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're donating 5 percent [of our proceeds] to the ACLU in response to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2017/01/31/512439121/trumps-executive-order-on-immigration-annotated'\">travel ban\u003c/a>,\" Eric Grimm, a manager at the cafe, explained.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grimm was referring to the executive order issued by President Trump restricting people from seven majority-Muslim countries from entering the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over 800 cafes around the country \u003ca href=\"http://sprudge.com/a-nationwide-coffee-fundraiser-for-the-aclu-115163.html\">participated \u003c/a>in the weekend fundraiser, which was the brainchild of \u003ca href=\"http://sprudge.com/\">Sprudge\u003c/a>, a coffee publication and event organizer. Organizers say at least $400,000 was raised — though only two-thirds of the cafes have reported their tallies, so they expect that number to keep rising.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think it speaks to the wider moment we're in right now,\" Jordan Michelman of Sprudge told us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a way of saying \"immigrants are welcome here,\" says Sam Penix, the owner of Everyman Espresso. Penix says he wants to remind people that \"we're a nation of immigrants, a city of immigrants.\" And restaurants and cafes depend on immigrants as employees, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food industry is often the on-ramp to employment for immigrants. An estimated one in four restaurant workers are foreign-born, according to an analysis done by \u003ca href=\"http://www.rocunited.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Restaurant Opportunities Centers United\u003c/a> using data from the Census' American Community Survey for 2015.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the vast \u003ca href=\"https://www.ers.usda.gov/topics/farm-economy/farm-labor/background.aspx#migrationpatterns\">majority\u003c/a> of farm workers are immigrants, many of whom are in the U.S. without legal authorization.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The U.S. food supply depends on immigrants. Ben Hall, a chef and co-owner of the Russell Street Deli in Detroit, says lots of people don't realize this. \"We can't run a business without labor,\" says Hall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hall has designated his deli as a\u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/2017/01/sanctuary-restaurants-movement-launches-promote-hate-discrimination-free-workplaces/\"> sanctuary restaurant\u003c/a>, which is a nationwide movement aimed at promoting discrimination-free workplaces and helping protect workers from discriminatory acts based on their immigration status, gender, religion or other factors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not just independent cafes and restaurants speaking up. Big brands have jumped in, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just After President Trump's travel ban was announced, Starbucks' CEO Howard Schultz \u003ca href=\"https://news.starbucks.com/news/living-our-values-in-uncertain-times\">wrote\u003c/a> to all his employees assuring them \"we are doing everything possible to support and help\" employees who are impacted by the travel ban. For example, Starbucks is offering free legal advice to employees with questions about immigration status. And the company announced plans to hire 10,000 refugees over the next five years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115181\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1131px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-115181\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880.jpe\" alt=\"Owner Sam Penix (left) talks with manager Eric Grimm at the Everyday Espresso cafe.\" width=\"1131\" height=\"754\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880.jpe 1131w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880-160x107.jpe 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880-800x533.jpe 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880-768x512.jpe 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880-1020x680.jpe 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880-960x640.jpe 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880-240x160.jpe 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880-375x250.jpe 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880-520x347.jpe 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1131px) 100vw, 1131px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owner Sam Penix (left) talks with manager Eric Grimm at the Everyday Espresso cafe. \u003ccite>(Allison Aubrey/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The CEO of PepsiCo, Indra Nooyi, who is foreign-born, sent an email to her employees after the travel ban was announced. \"We are an incredibly diverse organization, comprised of men and women from all walks of life and every corner of the globe — including the countries impacted by this new policy,\" Nooyi wrote. Her email affirmed the value of diversity. \"PepsiCo remains a place where everyone feels welcome and anyone can succeed. These are values we will never abandon,\" Nooyi wrote. She pledged to remain \"steadfastly committed to the safety, security and well-being of all our associates.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As food companies decide how and whether to weigh in, some brands are finding that speaking up for immigrants and inclusion is good for business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is a very important time and we really want to be part of this conversation,\" says \u003ca href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/in/sepanta-bagherpour-8427496\">Sepanta Bagherpour\u003c/a>, director of marketing at Nando's Peri-Peri, a chicken restaurant chain. (He's South African.) The company is currently promoting its Everyone Is Welcome campaign.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nando's has 38 restaurants in the U.S. and 1,200 internationally. When I walked by one of the Washington, D.C., locations, I noticed a big, bold sign in the storefront window that read:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Nando's Peri-Peri is an immigrant employing, gay loving, Muslim respecting, racism opposing, equal paying, multi-cultural restaurant.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bagherpour says the Nando's brand — which began in South Africa in the waning days of apartheid — is built on social commentary. And he says this campaign has been good for business. The company says that traffic and sales have jumped compared to the same time last year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But taking sides in this national conversation has its risks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've definitely seen push back,\" says Russell Street Deli's Ben Hall. After he was featured in a national business story on the sanctuary restaurant movement, he was slammed on social media.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There were comments such as: \"I'll never ever eat in your restaurant,\" and \"I only want my food [to be] made by an American.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hall says he was taken aback, but he realizes this conversation elicits strong feelings on both sides. And, in the end, despite the negative comments on social media, his deli has been more crowded than usual for this time of year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "From pledges to hire refugees to fundraisers for the ACLU, food businesses large and small are getting vocal about their support for immigrants in the wake of President Trump's new policies.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Customers who walked through the door of \u003ca href=\"http://www.everymanespresso.com/about/\">Everyman Espresso\u003c/a>, a cafe in New York's East Village, last weekend got a pitch at the check-out counter to support a fundraiser to help defend immigrants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're donating 5 percent [of our proceeds] to the ACLU in response to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2017/01/31/512439121/trumps-executive-order-on-immigration-annotated'\">travel ban\u003c/a>,\" Eric Grimm, a manager at the cafe, explained.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grimm was referring to the executive order issued by President Trump restricting people from seven majority-Muslim countries from entering the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over 800 cafes around the country \u003ca href=\"http://sprudge.com/a-nationwide-coffee-fundraiser-for-the-aclu-115163.html\">participated \u003c/a>in the weekend fundraiser, which was the brainchild of \u003ca href=\"http://sprudge.com/\">Sprudge\u003c/a>, a coffee publication and event organizer. Organizers say at least $400,000 was raised — though only two-thirds of the cafes have reported their tallies, so they expect that number to keep rising.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think it speaks to the wider moment we're in right now,\" Jordan Michelman of Sprudge told us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a way of saying \"immigrants are welcome here,\" says Sam Penix, the owner of Everyman Espresso. Penix says he wants to remind people that \"we're a nation of immigrants, a city of immigrants.\" And restaurants and cafes depend on immigrants as employees, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food industry is often the on-ramp to employment for immigrants. An estimated one in four restaurant workers are foreign-born, according to an analysis done by \u003ca href=\"http://www.rocunited.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Restaurant Opportunities Centers United\u003c/a> using data from the Census' American Community Survey for 2015.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the vast \u003ca href=\"https://www.ers.usda.gov/topics/farm-economy/farm-labor/background.aspx#migrationpatterns\">majority\u003c/a> of farm workers are immigrants, many of whom are in the U.S. without legal authorization.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The U.S. food supply depends on immigrants. Ben Hall, a chef and co-owner of the Russell Street Deli in Detroit, says lots of people don't realize this. \"We can't run a business without labor,\" says Hall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hall has designated his deli as a\u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/2017/01/sanctuary-restaurants-movement-launches-promote-hate-discrimination-free-workplaces/\"> sanctuary restaurant\u003c/a>, which is a nationwide movement aimed at promoting discrimination-free workplaces and helping protect workers from discriminatory acts based on their immigration status, gender, religion or other factors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not just independent cafes and restaurants speaking up. Big brands have jumped in, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just After President Trump's travel ban was announced, Starbucks' CEO Howard Schultz \u003ca href=\"https://news.starbucks.com/news/living-our-values-in-uncertain-times\">wrote\u003c/a> to all his employees assuring them \"we are doing everything possible to support and help\" employees who are impacted by the travel ban. For example, Starbucks is offering free legal advice to employees with questions about immigration status. And the company announced plans to hire 10,000 refugees over the next five years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115181\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1131px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-115181\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880.jpe\" alt=\"Owner Sam Penix (left) talks with manager Eric Grimm at the Everyday Espresso cafe.\" width=\"1131\" height=\"754\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880.jpe 1131w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880-160x107.jpe 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880-800x533.jpe 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880-768x512.jpe 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880-1020x680.jpe 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880-960x640.jpe 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880-240x160.jpe 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880-375x250.jpe 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_8339.jpg_slide-b148252dc57e67310791a5e547297f1ceb180880-520x347.jpe 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1131px) 100vw, 1131px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owner Sam Penix (left) talks with manager Eric Grimm at the Everyday Espresso cafe. \u003ccite>(Allison Aubrey/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The CEO of PepsiCo, Indra Nooyi, who is foreign-born, sent an email to her employees after the travel ban was announced. \"We are an incredibly diverse organization, comprised of men and women from all walks of life and every corner of the globe — including the countries impacted by this new policy,\" Nooyi wrote. Her email affirmed the value of diversity. \"PepsiCo remains a place where everyone feels welcome and anyone can succeed. These are values we will never abandon,\" Nooyi wrote. She pledged to remain \"steadfastly committed to the safety, security and well-being of all our associates.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As food companies decide how and whether to weigh in, some brands are finding that speaking up for immigrants and inclusion is good for business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is a very important time and we really want to be part of this conversation,\" says \u003ca href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/in/sepanta-bagherpour-8427496\">Sepanta Bagherpour\u003c/a>, director of marketing at Nando's Peri-Peri, a chicken restaurant chain. (He's South African.) The company is currently promoting its Everyone Is Welcome campaign.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nando's has 38 restaurants in the U.S. and 1,200 internationally. When I walked by one of the Washington, D.C., locations, I noticed a big, bold sign in the storefront window that read:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Nando's Peri-Peri is an immigrant employing, gay loving, Muslim respecting, racism opposing, equal paying, multi-cultural restaurant.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bagherpour says the Nando's brand — which began in South Africa in the waning days of apartheid — is built on social commentary. And he says this campaign has been good for business. The company says that traffic and sales have jumped compared to the same time last year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But taking sides in this national conversation has its risks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've definitely seen push back,\" says Russell Street Deli's Ben Hall. After he was featured in a national business story on the sanctuary restaurant movement, he was slammed on social media.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There were comments such as: \"I'll never ever eat in your restaurant,\" and \"I only want my food [to be] made by an American.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hall says he was taken aback, but he realizes this conversation elicits strong feelings on both sides. And, in the end, despite the negative comments on social media, his deli has been more crowded than usual for this time of year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Are We Eating Our Fleece Jackets? Microfibers Are Migrating Into Field And Food",
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"content": "\u003cp>The innovation of synthetic fleece has allowed many outdoor enthusiasts to hike with warmth and comfort. But what many of these fleece-wearing nature-lovers don't know is that each wash of their jackets and pullovers releases thousands of microscopic\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>plastic fibers, or microfibers into the environment — from their favorite national park, to agricultural lands, to waters with fish that make it back onto our plates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This has scientists wondering: are we eating our sweaters' synthetic microfibers?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Probably, says \u003ca href=\"https://rochmanlab.com/people/\">Chelsea Rochman\u003c/a>, an ecologist and evolutionary biologist at the University of Toronto, St. George. \"Microfibers seem to be one of the most common plastic debris items in animals and environmental samples,\" Rochman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, peer-reviewed studies have shown that these synthetic microfibers — a type of plastic smaller than a millimeter in length and made up of various synthetic polymers — have popped up in \u003ca href=\"http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acs.est.5b03163\">table salt\u003c/a> in China, in arctic waters and in \u003ca href=\"http://www.nature.com/articles/srep14340\">fish caught off the coast of California\u003c/a>. These tiny fibers make up 85 percent of human debris on shorelines across the globe, according to a 2011 \u003ca href=\"http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/es201811s\">study\u003c/a>. They're basically inescapable. So it's not unlikely they're finding their way into the human diet, especially in seafood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an effort to increase transparency and minimize pollution from their products, California-based clothing company Patagonia, popular for their microfiber-containing \u003ca href=\"http://www.patagonia.com/search/?cgid=root&start=0&sz=36#tile-12\">vests, pullovers, and jackets\u003c/a>, has started to partner with research groups to get to the bottom of how these fibers might be affecting both wildlife and human health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last year, the company worked with a research group led by \u003ca href=\"http://www.esm.ucsb.edu/people/Faculty/patricia_holden.htm\">Patricia Holden\u003c/a>, a professor of environmental microbiology at University of California, Santa Barbara, on a \u003ca href=\"http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acs.est.6b03045\">study \u003c/a>to quantify microfiber release in washing machines. The group ran both name-brand and off-brand polyester fleece jackets through the wash without detergent to get a handle on the mass of microfibers shed each time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The results, published in September of last year in \u003cem>Environmental Science and Technology\u003c/em>, were eye-opening. Each wash of a jacket shed microfibers up to two grams. (For reference, a paperclip weighs 1.5 grams.) Also, each fleece jacket released seven times more fibers when washed in a top-load washing machine versus a front-load.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dryer traps extra fuzz in the lint filter, says Holden. \"But in the washer, they're carried down the drain.\" From there, they end up in wastewater treatment plants, where many fibers can't be filtered out, and are released into the environment. Holden notes that this is just one pathway microfibers take into the environment. There could be additional pathways that scientists have yet to understand, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there is the larger question: are these tiny synthetic fibers harmful to humans and wildlife?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The answer is still fuzzy. Some research shows certain wildlife might be affected: two studies showed that ingesting microfibers leads to \u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0269749116310533\">increased mortality\u003c/a> in water fleas and makes common crabs \u003ca href=\"http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acs.est.5b04026?journalCode=esthag\">eat less\u003c/a> food overall. But it's unclear what effects, if any, they have on you and me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So the question for us is: Do we choose to eat seafood, knowing that we'll probably get a few microfibers woven in? Or do we quit seafood altogether at the chance that they could have adverse health effects?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I have no doubt that every time I eat oysters and mussels I eat at least one microfiber,\" says Rochman, who studies microplastics in marine habitats and continues to indulge in seafood.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\"I see dust in the air and we inhale that. The question is, at what point does it become a problem? Here, the benefits outweigh the costs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.adventurescience.org/staff.html#Gregg\">Gregg Treinish\u003c/a>, founder and executive director of the non-profit Adventurers and Scientists for Conservation, has a different take. \"If you're eating fish, you're eating plastic,\" Treinish says. \"There's no proven causal relationship with health issues, but I don't want to spend the next 50 years eating it and then learn I shouldn't have been.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Holden, Rochman, Treinish, and others all agree that we don't understand everything about how microfibers traverse ecosystems and what they do inside human and wildlife bodies. But to minimize pollution in the first place, there are short-term solutions we can adopt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Treinish rigged his washing machine with \u003ca href=\"http://www.septicsafe.com/filtrol-160-lint-filter-with-1-filter-bag/\">a filter\u003c/a> designed for septic systems, hoping to catch some microfibers before they escape into the waterways. So far, he's filled two Nalgene water bottles with the filtrate. He continues to use the filter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And he suggests a simpler solution: just wash your fleece less often. \"Obviously I'll wash my jacket if a kid throws up on it,\" Treinish says, \"but not if I just wore it once. It's important what individuals do. I hope that doesn't get lost.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Fleece jackets and pullovers have transformed our experience of the outdoors. But the little, tiny synthetic fibers that fleece is made of could also be ending up in our diets.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The innovation of synthetic fleece has allowed many outdoor enthusiasts to hike with warmth and comfort. But what many of these fleece-wearing nature-lovers don't know is that each wash of their jackets and pullovers releases thousands of microscopic\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>plastic fibers, or microfibers into the environment — from their favorite national park, to agricultural lands, to waters with fish that make it back onto our plates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This has scientists wondering: are we eating our sweaters' synthetic microfibers?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Probably, says \u003ca href=\"https://rochmanlab.com/people/\">Chelsea Rochman\u003c/a>, an ecologist and evolutionary biologist at the University of Toronto, St. George. \"Microfibers seem to be one of the most common plastic debris items in animals and environmental samples,\" Rochman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, peer-reviewed studies have shown that these synthetic microfibers — a type of plastic smaller than a millimeter in length and made up of various synthetic polymers — have popped up in \u003ca href=\"http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acs.est.5b03163\">table salt\u003c/a> in China, in arctic waters and in \u003ca href=\"http://www.nature.com/articles/srep14340\">fish caught off the coast of California\u003c/a>. These tiny fibers make up 85 percent of human debris on shorelines across the globe, according to a 2011 \u003ca href=\"http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/es201811s\">study\u003c/a>. They're basically inescapable. So it's not unlikely they're finding their way into the human diet, especially in seafood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an effort to increase transparency and minimize pollution from their products, California-based clothing company Patagonia, popular for their microfiber-containing \u003ca href=\"http://www.patagonia.com/search/?cgid=root&start=0&sz=36#tile-12\">vests, pullovers, and jackets\u003c/a>, has started to partner with research groups to get to the bottom of how these fibers might be affecting both wildlife and human health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last year, the company worked with a research group led by \u003ca href=\"http://www.esm.ucsb.edu/people/Faculty/patricia_holden.htm\">Patricia Holden\u003c/a>, a professor of environmental microbiology at University of California, Santa Barbara, on a \u003ca href=\"http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acs.est.6b03045\">study \u003c/a>to quantify microfiber release in washing machines. The group ran both name-brand and off-brand polyester fleece jackets through the wash without detergent to get a handle on the mass of microfibers shed each time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The results, published in September of last year in \u003cem>Environmental Science and Technology\u003c/em>, were eye-opening. Each wash of a jacket shed microfibers up to two grams. (For reference, a paperclip weighs 1.5 grams.) Also, each fleece jacket released seven times more fibers when washed in a top-load washing machine versus a front-load.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dryer traps extra fuzz in the lint filter, says Holden. \"But in the washer, they're carried down the drain.\" From there, they end up in wastewater treatment plants, where many fibers can't be filtered out, and are released into the environment. Holden notes that this is just one pathway microfibers take into the environment. There could be additional pathways that scientists have yet to understand, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there is the larger question: are these tiny synthetic fibers harmful to humans and wildlife?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The answer is still fuzzy. Some research shows certain wildlife might be affected: two studies showed that ingesting microfibers leads to \u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0269749116310533\">increased mortality\u003c/a> in water fleas and makes common crabs \u003ca href=\"http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acs.est.5b04026?journalCode=esthag\">eat less\u003c/a> food overall. But it's unclear what effects, if any, they have on you and me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So the question for us is: Do we choose to eat seafood, knowing that we'll probably get a few microfibers woven in? Or do we quit seafood altogether at the chance that they could have adverse health effects?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I have no doubt that every time I eat oysters and mussels I eat at least one microfiber,\" says Rochman, who studies microplastics in marine habitats and continues to indulge in seafood.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\"I see dust in the air and we inhale that. The question is, at what point does it become a problem? Here, the benefits outweigh the costs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.adventurescience.org/staff.html#Gregg\">Gregg Treinish\u003c/a>, founder and executive director of the non-profit Adventurers and Scientists for Conservation, has a different take. \"If you're eating fish, you're eating plastic,\" Treinish says. \"There's no proven causal relationship with health issues, but I don't want to spend the next 50 years eating it and then learn I shouldn't have been.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Holden, Rochman, Treinish, and others all agree that we don't understand everything about how microfibers traverse ecosystems and what they do inside human and wildlife bodies. But to minimize pollution in the first place, there are short-term solutions we can adopt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Treinish rigged his washing machine with \u003ca href=\"http://www.septicsafe.com/filtrol-160-lint-filter-with-1-filter-bag/\">a filter\u003c/a> designed for septic systems, hoping to catch some microfibers before they escape into the waterways. So far, he's filled two Nalgene water bottles with the filtrate. He continues to use the filter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And he suggests a simpler solution: just wash your fleece less often. \"Obviously I'll wash my jacket if a kid throws up on it,\" Treinish says, \"but not if I just wore it once. It's important what individuals do. I hope that doesn't get lost.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Can Fish Hubs Rebuild Demand for Local Fish?",
"title": "Can Fish Hubs Rebuild Demand for Local Fish?",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Now that the West Coast groundfish are back, the Monterey Bay Fisheries Trust is launching a project to spur consumer demand.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once a major source of local fish in California, the coastal city of Monterey is now filled with restaurants serving farmed salmon and imported Asian shrimp. But a conservation group there wants to change that fact. Borrowing a marketing and distribution idea from its land-based counterparts, the Monterey Bay Fisheries Trust is planning to launch a “fish hub,” designed to market and sell products from a variety of local producers in one central location.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still in the planning stages, the Monterey fish hub could take many forms—it could be a facility, entirely virtual, or simply shared marketing. But the idea is a transparent business that brings Monterey fish, identified by the region and by the name and practices of fisherman who caught it, to both individual customers and large institutions in the area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Fishermen need a place where we can actually meet the public and introduce our products, and it can’t just come from one source—it needs to be a community effort,” says third-generation fisherman Giuseppe “Joe” Pennisi, who first generated the fish hub idea with Fisheries Trust Executive Director Sherry Flumerfelt back in January, 2015. Based out of the port in Monterey, Pennisi says he has no local market for his catch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115046\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700.jpg\" alt=\"Giuseppe “Joe” Pennisi\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115046\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Giuseppe “Joe” Pennisi \u003ccite>(courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.coreyfishes.com/\">Corey Arnold\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Fisheries Trust—which was founded by the city of Monterey and the Monterey Bay Aquarium in 2013—kicked off the fish hub discussion a few weeks ago, inviting board members and informal advisors including the city’s harbormaster, national environmental organizations’ representatives, business owners, and of course, fishermen, to weigh in. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Everyone always asks me where they can find good local, fresh fish,” says Monterey cook and fishermen Kevin Butler, who attended the first Fisheries Trust meeting. “I tell them, ‘Well you’re going to need a boat.’ It’s that hard to find.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Butler hopes establishing a fish hub will help reignite local demand. He brought a clear vision to the first meeting. In a perfect world, he says, he comes back in from fishing, and then goes directly to one, central location to first sell his fish to a distributor and then have it prepared by a fishmonger (like a fish butcher). And just a doorway away, there’s an open market with all the local fish, laid out on heaps of ice, in front of the customers. No endless phone calls while he looks for a buyer and his fish heats up in the sun; no frantic ice runs; no selling his fish to a middleman for the cheapest price and sending it off to a place where no one knows where, how, or who caught it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A proper local fish market that actually focuses on the local could make a difference,” Butler says, citing \u003ca href=\"https://www.pikeplacefish.com/\">Pike Place Market\u003c/a> in Seattle as a shining example. “Everyone who lives here is proud of being here,” Butler continues. “They’d walk into a place that’s half consumption and half education about where exactly that fish was landed, and with that knowledge there would be pride.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While there are just a handful of other fish hubs across the country (there’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.redsbest.com/redsbest/\">Red’s Best\u003c/a> in Massachusetts and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.akmarine.org/alaska-community-seafood-hub-shines-as-a-winner-at-fish-2-0-and-with-usda-grant/\">Alaska Community Seafood Hub\u003c/a>) to look to as models, successful food hubs are paving the way. With more than 350 across the country now, the number of food hubs has \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2016/06/20/want-to-launch-the-next-food-hub-heres-what-you-need-to-know/\">doubled\u003c/a> in the last eight years. With both for-profit and non-profit structures, food hubs initially began aggregating local food products at facility-based distribution centers; now, some websites are also serving as virtual hubs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Karen Karp, a consultant who has helped launch local food projects for over 25 years (including \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2016/09/13/the-hub-of-hubs-new-york-is-investing-15-million-in-a-large-scale-regional-food-distribution/\">the big new food hub\u003c/a> in New York), is in the process of conducting an initial assessment of a fish hub’s feasibility in Monterey. Funded by the National Fish and Wildlife Foundation, as well as a supplementary grant from the Monterey Bay Aquarium, her report is expected to be complete by late spring this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although fish hubs in other areas have been successful, Karp recognizes the importance of tailoring a system to its particular community. “Often groups believe food distribution is so broken that there’s no opportunity to be using or leveraging the existing distribution mechanisms to achieve the goals they have,” Karp says. “Our first goal is always to understand what problem they are trying to solve.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>A Fishery Rebounds, But Not the Demand\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nIn 2000, the federal government \u003ca href=\"http://www.publicaffairs.noaa.gov/releases2000/jan00/noaa00r103.html\">declared\u003c/a> the West Coast “groundfish” fishery a disaster and began enforcing some of the strictest regulations on the industry worldwide. Over the last decade, the groundfish fishery—which includes popular, bottom-dwelling species like cod, flounder, and sole—in Monterey has rebounded, and is now considered a \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2015/12/16/the-west-coast-groundfish-recovery-the-best-fish-news-you-havent-heard-yet/\">success story\u003c/a> among scientists and environmentalists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the local fishing industry has been slow to recover: fishermen are buried under regulatory costs, processing infrastructure has deteriorated, and many consumers, who still believe the fishery to be unsustainable, remain alienated. While the market is slightly better for Dungeness crab, salmon, and squid in the region, these fisheries are not as resilient and reliable as the groundfish fishery, which now can provide fish year-round.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pennisi was one of the few in his home port who refused to sell his boat during the difficult years. After taking a hiatus from fishing and getting his contractor’s license to make ends meet, he returned to his boat full-time in 2011. Nevertheless, Pennisi’s “Pioneer” was the only groundfish trawl boat that left the dock this year out of Monterey Bay ports—and it only went out twice. (Pennisi spent the rest of his season working in other fisheries, in regions such as Alaska and Oregon, where he was guaranteed a good market for the salmon and crab he caught.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rather than trawlers \u003ca href=\"http://www.pioneerseafoods.com/light-touch-trawl-gear\">like Pennisi’s\u003c/a>, which pull in greater loads of fish with big sweeping nets, the Fort Bragg-to-Monterey coastline is primarily occupied by “hook and line” fishermen who are taxed less for their smaller boats that typically have a lower environmental impact. But they also bring in significantly less fish. And, unfortunately for everyone, they are forced to compete with lower global prices when they do bring in a catch, because no one is willing to pay a premium price for local, sustainably and ethically caught seafood in Monterey—yet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Building Capacity for Wholesale Buyers\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nWhile Butler is a hook-and-line fisherman and Pennisi a trawler, they seem to agree on one thing: the small and big boats need to work together to create one, consistent local market. While Butler may only be able to come back with a couple hundred pounds of rockfish, he could add this to Pennisi’s catch for a large-scale buyer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115047\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 350px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/fish-350x465.jpg\" alt=\"Photo courtesy of Joe Pennisi\" width=\"350\" height=\"465\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115047\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/fish-350x465.jpg 350w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/fish-350x465-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/fish-350x465-240x319.jpg 240w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo courtesy of Joe Pennisi\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How large are we talking?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nButler is also the operations manager at Real Good Fish, a \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2016/11/07/boat-to-school-programs-source-fresh-seafood-for-students/\">Monterey-based community supported fishery\u003c/a> (CSF) that, since its founding in 2012, has provided local seafood direct to consumers in the area through a subscription service that works similar to a community supported-agriculture (CSA) program. But founder and CEO Alan Lovewell, who is also serving as an advisor to the fish hub project, points out that his business can only grow so much—there simply isn’t enough fish in the area right now for Real Good Fish to sell to large institutions. “This project is completely aligned with what we are trying to do,” says Lovewell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order to gain insight on the art of scaling up production while still staying true to good fishing practices, the Fisheries Trust has referred to those with experience in sustainable agriculture. Advisor Brett Melone, who helped start \u003ca href=\"http://www.albafarmers.org/\">ALBA Organics Food Hub\u003c/a> in Salinas, CA, and is now the director of lending for \u003ca href=\"http://www.californiafarmlink.org/\">California FarmLink\u003c/a>, summarizes it well: “It’s amazing that fishermen are struggling like farmers were struggling 15 years ago. There’s interest in producing and harvesting fish that has an identity and that is done in an environmentally responsible way, but that identity and that value isn’t being passed on through the value chain.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melone emphasizes that it’s important to keep the identity and the story behind the food attached to the product throughout the different steps of the supply chain, and to make sure that information reaches the customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the initial stage of the fish hub is set in motion, the Monterey Bay Fisheries Trust hopes to stay true to Melone’s advice. The best resource they have on hand is a tremendous story of a fishery rebounding and the fishermen and women who have committed their lives to being its stewards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s so much enthusiasm from everyone around the fish hub, Flumerfelt says. “The point is, they’re landing this fish that should be recognized as sustainable, and ‘Joe caught it yesterday!’ —but instead it’s getting carted off to another town where it’s being merged in with fish from all over, where it loses its identity and its value.” She makes it clear that, one way or another, she’s out to keep the fish in Monterey.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About the Writer\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAnna Guth has a degree in English and environmental studies from Wesleyan University. Currently a communications assistant for the Pesticide Action Network, she’s also written regularly for the Point Reyes Light. Previously, she managed her own Community Supported Agriculture Program and grew vegetables and fruit for more than 20 families.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Now that the West Coast groundfish are back, the Monterey Bay Fisheries Trust is launching a project to spur consumer demand.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once a major source of local fish in California, the coastal city of Monterey is now filled with restaurants serving farmed salmon and imported Asian shrimp. But a conservation group there wants to change that fact. Borrowing a marketing and distribution idea from its land-based counterparts, the Monterey Bay Fisheries Trust is planning to launch a “fish hub,” designed to market and sell products from a variety of local producers in one central location.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still in the planning stages, the Monterey fish hub could take many forms—it could be a facility, entirely virtual, or simply shared marketing. But the idea is a transparent business that brings Monterey fish, identified by the region and by the name and practices of fisherman who caught it, to both individual customers and large institutions in the area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Fishermen need a place where we can actually meet the public and introduce our products, and it can’t just come from one source—it needs to be a community effort,” says third-generation fisherman Giuseppe “Joe” Pennisi, who first generated the fish hub idea with Fisheries Trust Executive Director Sherry Flumerfelt back in January, 2015. Based out of the port in Monterey, Pennisi says he has no local market for his catch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115046\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700.jpg\" alt=\"Giuseppe “Joe” Pennisi\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115046\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/140817_pioneer_Joe-e1485890789700-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Giuseppe “Joe” Pennisi \u003ccite>(courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.coreyfishes.com/\">Corey Arnold\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Fisheries Trust—which was founded by the city of Monterey and the Monterey Bay Aquarium in 2013—kicked off the fish hub discussion a few weeks ago, inviting board members and informal advisors including the city’s harbormaster, national environmental organizations’ representatives, business owners, and of course, fishermen, to weigh in. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Everyone always asks me where they can find good local, fresh fish,” says Monterey cook and fishermen Kevin Butler, who attended the first Fisheries Trust meeting. “I tell them, ‘Well you’re going to need a boat.’ It’s that hard to find.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Butler hopes establishing a fish hub will help reignite local demand. He brought a clear vision to the first meeting. In a perfect world, he says, he comes back in from fishing, and then goes directly to one, central location to first sell his fish to a distributor and then have it prepared by a fishmonger (like a fish butcher). And just a doorway away, there’s an open market with all the local fish, laid out on heaps of ice, in front of the customers. No endless phone calls while he looks for a buyer and his fish heats up in the sun; no frantic ice runs; no selling his fish to a middleman for the cheapest price and sending it off to a place where no one knows where, how, or who caught it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A proper local fish market that actually focuses on the local could make a difference,” Butler says, citing \u003ca href=\"https://www.pikeplacefish.com/\">Pike Place Market\u003c/a> in Seattle as a shining example. “Everyone who lives here is proud of being here,” Butler continues. “They’d walk into a place that’s half consumption and half education about where exactly that fish was landed, and with that knowledge there would be pride.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While there are just a handful of other fish hubs across the country (there’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.redsbest.com/redsbest/\">Red’s Best\u003c/a> in Massachusetts and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.akmarine.org/alaska-community-seafood-hub-shines-as-a-winner-at-fish-2-0-and-with-usda-grant/\">Alaska Community Seafood Hub\u003c/a>) to look to as models, successful food hubs are paving the way. With more than 350 across the country now, the number of food hubs has \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2016/06/20/want-to-launch-the-next-food-hub-heres-what-you-need-to-know/\">doubled\u003c/a> in the last eight years. With both for-profit and non-profit structures, food hubs initially began aggregating local food products at facility-based distribution centers; now, some websites are also serving as virtual hubs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Karen Karp, a consultant who has helped launch local food projects for over 25 years (including \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2016/09/13/the-hub-of-hubs-new-york-is-investing-15-million-in-a-large-scale-regional-food-distribution/\">the big new food hub\u003c/a> in New York), is in the process of conducting an initial assessment of a fish hub’s feasibility in Monterey. Funded by the National Fish and Wildlife Foundation, as well as a supplementary grant from the Monterey Bay Aquarium, her report is expected to be complete by late spring this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although fish hubs in other areas have been successful, Karp recognizes the importance of tailoring a system to its particular community. “Often groups believe food distribution is so broken that there’s no opportunity to be using or leveraging the existing distribution mechanisms to achieve the goals they have,” Karp says. “Our first goal is always to understand what problem they are trying to solve.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>A Fishery Rebounds, But Not the Demand\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nIn 2000, the federal government \u003ca href=\"http://www.publicaffairs.noaa.gov/releases2000/jan00/noaa00r103.html\">declared\u003c/a> the West Coast “groundfish” fishery a disaster and began enforcing some of the strictest regulations on the industry worldwide. Over the last decade, the groundfish fishery—which includes popular, bottom-dwelling species like cod, flounder, and sole—in Monterey has rebounded, and is now considered a \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2015/12/16/the-west-coast-groundfish-recovery-the-best-fish-news-you-havent-heard-yet/\">success story\u003c/a> among scientists and environmentalists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the local fishing industry has been slow to recover: fishermen are buried under regulatory costs, processing infrastructure has deteriorated, and many consumers, who still believe the fishery to be unsustainable, remain alienated. While the market is slightly better for Dungeness crab, salmon, and squid in the region, these fisheries are not as resilient and reliable as the groundfish fishery, which now can provide fish year-round.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pennisi was one of the few in his home port who refused to sell his boat during the difficult years. After taking a hiatus from fishing and getting his contractor’s license to make ends meet, he returned to his boat full-time in 2011. Nevertheless, Pennisi’s “Pioneer” was the only groundfish trawl boat that left the dock this year out of Monterey Bay ports—and it only went out twice. (Pennisi spent the rest of his season working in other fisheries, in regions such as Alaska and Oregon, where he was guaranteed a good market for the salmon and crab he caught.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rather than trawlers \u003ca href=\"http://www.pioneerseafoods.com/light-touch-trawl-gear\">like Pennisi’s\u003c/a>, which pull in greater loads of fish with big sweeping nets, the Fort Bragg-to-Monterey coastline is primarily occupied by “hook and line” fishermen who are taxed less for their smaller boats that typically have a lower environmental impact. But they also bring in significantly less fish. And, unfortunately for everyone, they are forced to compete with lower global prices when they do bring in a catch, because no one is willing to pay a premium price for local, sustainably and ethically caught seafood in Monterey—yet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Building Capacity for Wholesale Buyers\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nWhile Butler is a hook-and-line fisherman and Pennisi a trawler, they seem to agree on one thing: the small and big boats need to work together to create one, consistent local market. While Butler may only be able to come back with a couple hundred pounds of rockfish, he could add this to Pennisi’s catch for a large-scale buyer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115047\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 350px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/fish-350x465.jpg\" alt=\"Photo courtesy of Joe Pennisi\" width=\"350\" height=\"465\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115047\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/fish-350x465.jpg 350w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/fish-350x465-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/fish-350x465-240x319.jpg 240w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo courtesy of Joe Pennisi\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How large are we talking?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nButler is also the operations manager at Real Good Fish, a \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2016/11/07/boat-to-school-programs-source-fresh-seafood-for-students/\">Monterey-based community supported fishery\u003c/a> (CSF) that, since its founding in 2012, has provided local seafood direct to consumers in the area through a subscription service that works similar to a community supported-agriculture (CSA) program. But founder and CEO Alan Lovewell, who is also serving as an advisor to the fish hub project, points out that his business can only grow so much—there simply isn’t enough fish in the area right now for Real Good Fish to sell to large institutions. “This project is completely aligned with what we are trying to do,” says Lovewell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order to gain insight on the art of scaling up production while still staying true to good fishing practices, the Fisheries Trust has referred to those with experience in sustainable agriculture. Advisor Brett Melone, who helped start \u003ca href=\"http://www.albafarmers.org/\">ALBA Organics Food Hub\u003c/a> in Salinas, CA, and is now the director of lending for \u003ca href=\"http://www.californiafarmlink.org/\">California FarmLink\u003c/a>, summarizes it well: “It’s amazing that fishermen are struggling like farmers were struggling 15 years ago. There’s interest in producing and harvesting fish that has an identity and that is done in an environmentally responsible way, but that identity and that value isn’t being passed on through the value chain.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melone emphasizes that it’s important to keep the identity and the story behind the food attached to the product throughout the different steps of the supply chain, and to make sure that information reaches the customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the initial stage of the fish hub is set in motion, the Monterey Bay Fisheries Trust hopes to stay true to Melone’s advice. The best resource they have on hand is a tremendous story of a fishery rebounding and the fishermen and women who have committed their lives to being its stewards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s so much enthusiasm from everyone around the fish hub, Flumerfelt says. “The point is, they’re landing this fish that should be recognized as sustainable, and ‘Joe caught it yesterday!’ —but instead it’s getting carted off to another town where it’s being merged in with fish from all over, where it loses its identity and its value.” She makes it clear that, one way or another, she’s out to keep the fish in Monterey.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About the Writer\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAnna Guth has a degree in English and environmental studies from Wesleyan University. Currently a communications assistant for the Pesticide Action Network, she’s also written regularly for the Point Reyes Light. Previously, she managed her own Community Supported Agriculture Program and grew vegetables and fruit for more than 20 families.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Budweiser's Super Bowl Ad About Immigration Reverberates In More Ways Than One",
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"content": "\u003cp>\"You don't look like you're from around here,\" a young Adolphus Busch is told as he arrives in America from Germany to pursue his dream of making beer. So begins Budweiser's new Super Bowl ad, released earlier this week into an ongoing political maelstrom over immigration.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ad depicts the company's founder trudging through swamps and mud, surviving a steamboat fire and being greeted with outright hostility before getting to St. Louis and meeting Eberhard Anheuser — i.e., the Anheuser in Anheuser-Busch. Despite the beer giant's protestations that the ad is not political, it has hit a nerve among conservatives for taking a seemingly pro-immigrant stance at a time of widespread protests against President Trump's ban on travelers from seven Muslim-majority nations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But lost in all the brouhaha is the true story of the 19th-century German immigrants behind the rise of American brewing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, let's start with a little historical nitpicking with that ad. Historian Maureen Ogle, author of \u003cem>Ambitious Brew: The Story of American Beer,\u003c/em> says that when Busch arrived in St. Louis, Mo., he didn't just run into Eberhard Anheuser — he married his daughter and took over the small brewery that Anheuser, a prosperous soap-maker, had acquired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, neither Anheuser nor Busch was the source of the original Budweiser. Ogle says the Bud brand was started by one of Busch's friends, Carl Conrad. Busch eventually bought Budweiser from Conrad — but that happened in the 1880s, long after he'd already become a successful brewer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there's one thing in the Budweiser ad that rings true to history: the anti-German immigrant hostility that Busch is depicted enduring on the streets. \"Go back home!\" a man tells him angrily.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While we don't know if Busch himself ever walked through such hostile crowds, Ogle says the 1850s were certainly an era marked by \"xenophobic turmoil.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Busch was part of a large wave of German immigrants, including Frederick Miller and Frederick Pabst, who helped build American brewing in the mid-1800s. The still-new nation was in the middle of a great debate over what it meant to be an American. And it was seeing a huge influx of immigrants — not just from Germany, but Ireland, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Both the Irish and Germans came from cultures where alcohol was a respectable habit,\" says Ogle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many native-born Americans were worried about how all those newcomers, and their customs, would affect national identity, Ogle says. That's partly what gave rise to the temperance movement. It wasn't just about condemning alcohol, it was about defining the moral character of America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That was a serious culture clash,\" Ogle says. \"And it did fuel a really strong prohibition movement.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many Germans who came over set up beer halls in towns with large German enclaves, like St. Louis, Cincinnati and Milwaukee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Americans thought of it as disreputable — only low-class people drank,\" Ogle says. \"If you went into a tavern, you were going into the seventh circle of hell.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was the 1840s and '50s, when America was still debating the great question of slavery, and whether to legalize it outside the South. Ogle says many working-class whites in the North who organized against the expansion of slavery did so, in part, out of fear that they'd be competing for low-skill jobs. These working-class whites were anti-immigrant for the same reasons, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There were pitched battles in the streets where people were saying, 'You don't belong here. Go home. We don't want any more immigrants, ' \" Ogle says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Republican Party was born in Wisconsin in this climate, she says, to combat the expansion of slavery into the western territories, but also as a way for German immigrants to stand up for themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In Milwaukee [the Republican Party] was made up of German immigrants who were determined to protect immigrant rights and who wanted to end slavery,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for Busch, he became an American citizen and was extremely proud of it, Ogle says. He died before the start of World War I — when anti-German sentiment became rampant in the U.S. His wife, Lilly Anheuser Busch, suffered a terrible indignity. Suspected of being a German spy, she was forced to undergo a full-body exam — body cavities included — by order of the attorney general on her way back from visiting relatives in Germany. And his family was denounced in newspapers as un-American, their loyalties to the nation openly questioned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One other thing to note: Many of those German immigrants of the mid-19th century were essentially refugees. They were fleeing constant warfare in Europe and came to America in search of stability.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So while Budweiser's ad represents a glowing representation of the American Dream, the truth is more complicated and, in fact, reflects a history of immigration that reverberates today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Right now a little history is valuable for just about everything,\" Ogle says.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Despite taking some historical liberties, Bud's new ad about its founder gets some things right — like the hostility toward new immigrants and suspicion of their un-American ways (like drinking).",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\"You don't look like you're from around here,\" a young Adolphus Busch is told as he arrives in America from Germany to pursue his dream of making beer. So begins Budweiser's new Super Bowl ad, released earlier this week into an ongoing political maelstrom over immigration.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ad depicts the company's founder trudging through swamps and mud, surviving a steamboat fire and being greeted with outright hostility before getting to St. Louis and meeting Eberhard Anheuser — i.e., the Anheuser in Anheuser-Busch. Despite the beer giant's protestations that the ad is not political, it has hit a nerve among conservatives for taking a seemingly pro-immigrant stance at a time of widespread protests against President Trump's ban on travelers from seven Muslim-majority nations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But lost in all the brouhaha is the true story of the 19th-century German immigrants behind the rise of American brewing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, let's start with a little historical nitpicking with that ad. Historian Maureen Ogle, author of \u003cem>Ambitious Brew: The Story of American Beer,\u003c/em> says that when Busch arrived in St. Louis, Mo., he didn't just run into Eberhard Anheuser — he married his daughter and took over the small brewery that Anheuser, a prosperous soap-maker, had acquired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, neither Anheuser nor Busch was the source of the original Budweiser. Ogle says the Bud brand was started by one of Busch's friends, Carl Conrad. Busch eventually bought Budweiser from Conrad — but that happened in the 1880s, long after he'd already become a successful brewer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there's one thing in the Budweiser ad that rings true to history: the anti-German immigrant hostility that Busch is depicted enduring on the streets. \"Go back home!\" a man tells him angrily.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While we don't know if Busch himself ever walked through such hostile crowds, Ogle says the 1850s were certainly an era marked by \"xenophobic turmoil.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Busch was part of a large wave of German immigrants, including Frederick Miller and Frederick Pabst, who helped build American brewing in the mid-1800s. The still-new nation was in the middle of a great debate over what it meant to be an American. And it was seeing a huge influx of immigrants — not just from Germany, but Ireland, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Both the Irish and Germans came from cultures where alcohol was a respectable habit,\" says Ogle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many native-born Americans were worried about how all those newcomers, and their customs, would affect national identity, Ogle says. That's partly what gave rise to the temperance movement. It wasn't just about condemning alcohol, it was about defining the moral character of America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That was a serious culture clash,\" Ogle says. \"And it did fuel a really strong prohibition movement.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many Germans who came over set up beer halls in towns with large German enclaves, like St. Louis, Cincinnati and Milwaukee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Americans thought of it as disreputable — only low-class people drank,\" Ogle says. \"If you went into a tavern, you were going into the seventh circle of hell.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was the 1840s and '50s, when America was still debating the great question of slavery, and whether to legalize it outside the South. Ogle says many working-class whites in the North who organized against the expansion of slavery did so, in part, out of fear that they'd be competing for low-skill jobs. These working-class whites were anti-immigrant for the same reasons, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There were pitched battles in the streets where people were saying, 'You don't belong here. Go home. We don't want any more immigrants, ' \" Ogle says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Republican Party was born in Wisconsin in this climate, she says, to combat the expansion of slavery into the western territories, but also as a way for German immigrants to stand up for themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In Milwaukee [the Republican Party] was made up of German immigrants who were determined to protect immigrant rights and who wanted to end slavery,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for Busch, he became an American citizen and was extremely proud of it, Ogle says. He died before the start of World War I — when anti-German sentiment became rampant in the U.S. His wife, Lilly Anheuser Busch, suffered a terrible indignity. Suspected of being a German spy, she was forced to undergo a full-body exam — body cavities included — by order of the attorney general on her way back from visiting relatives in Germany. And his family was denounced in newspapers as un-American, their loyalties to the nation openly questioned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One other thing to note: Many of those German immigrants of the mid-19th century were essentially refugees. They were fleeing constant warfare in Europe and came to America in search of stability.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So while Budweiser's ad represents a glowing representation of the American Dream, the truth is more complicated and, in fact, reflects a history of immigration that reverberates today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Right now a little history is valuable for just about everything,\" Ogle says.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "New York City Bodegas Strike To Protest Trump's Travel Ban",
"title": "New York City Bodegas Strike To Protest Trump's Travel Ban",
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"content": "\u003cp>Yemeni-owned bodegas across New York City's five boroughs shut their doors at noon ET Thursday to protest President Trump's executive order barring travelers from seven Muslim-majority countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2017/01/31/512439121/trumps-executive-order-on-immigration-annotated'\">Under the order\u003c/a> signed last Friday, travelers from not only Yemen but also Iraq, Iran, Libya, Somalia, Sudan and Syria are barred from entering the U.S. for 90 days. The order also suspends admissions of new refugees for 120 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-lang=\"en\">\n\u003cp lang=\"und\" dir=\"ltr\">\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/bodegastrike?src=hash\">#bodegastrike\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://t.co/rYrYeXK1XN\">pic.twitter.com/rYrYeXK1XN\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>— katie ???? (@katieraffa) \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/katieraffa/status/827247655042572294\">February 2, 2017\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cscript async src=\"//platform.twitter.com/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\">\u003c/script>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For \u003ca href=\"http://www.wnyc.org/story/yemeni-businesses-shut-their-doors-protest-trump-policies\">Sulaiman Al-Audi\u003c/a>, who works at the Best and Tasty Grocery on 143rd Street, the travel ban sends the message that he is not welcome here. Audi was born in Yemen but has been in the U.S. since 2002.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've been here over a decade, and we've never posed any threat to anybody. We're just here to make a living,\" he told Annmarie Fertoli of NPR member station WNYC.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Audi says he has started the application process to bring his wife and baby to the U.S. But he doesn't know what happens next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Debbie Almontaser, who \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/events/1792162054368070/?active_tab=about\">organized\u003c/a> Thursday's bodega protests, says about 1,000 shops are participating. She says that restaurants and other stores have also closed in solidarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The message that the merchants are sending is that they are part of the American fabric and the Muslim ban has devastated them and their families,\" says Almontaser, who is of Yemeni descent. She too, is personally affected by the new travel restrictions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-lang=\"en\">\n\u003cp lang=\"en\" dir=\"ltr\">Follow \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/BodegaStrike?src=hash\">#BodegaStrike\u003c/a> to get news about ~1,000 \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/NYC?src=hash\">#NYC\u003c/a> bodegas partaking in a strike today from noon to 8 pm to stand against the \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/MuslimBan?src=hash\">#MuslimBan\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"https://t.co/1jKVjgJVf6\">pic.twitter.com/1jKVjgJVf6\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>— Mai El-Sadany (@maitelsadany) \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/maitelsadany/status/827227875736690688\">February 2, 2017\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cscript async src=\"//platform.twitter.com/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\">\u003c/script>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My brother-in-law's wife is still stuck in Jordan,\" she told me. \"She was awaiting her visa and now because of the ban she won't be able to join him and her children.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Best and Tasty Grocery, a sign greeted customers. It read: \"In support of our family, friends and loved ones who are stranded at U.S. airports and overseas, we are closing our business today.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alina Babar, a hospital worker and regular customer, expressed sympathy for the strike. \"I think it's brave of them to take a stand,\" she told WNYC, \"and I think they have every right to do it, and I think that they feel like they're being treated poorly.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many bodega workers and their supporters have gathered for a rally at in Brooklyn Borough Hall in solidarity with the Yemeni-American community. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-lang=\"en\">\n\u003cp lang=\"en\" dir=\"ltr\">In tears at the amazing turn out for \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/BodegaStrike?src=hash\">#BodegaStrike\u003c/a> by Yemenis and it's only 3pm. \u003ca href=\"https://t.co/JbFbPHwZLJ\">pic.twitter.com/JbFbPHwZLJ\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>— Dr.Debbie Almontaser (@DebbiAlmontaser) \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/DebbiAlmontaser/status/827246299468722177\">February 2, 2017\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cscript async src=\"//platform.twitter.com/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\">\u003c/script>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Yemeni-owned shops shut their doors for eight hours across the five boroughs. Organizers say many owners were personally affected by the ban on travelers from seven Muslim-majority nations.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Yemeni-owned bodegas across New York City's five boroughs shut their doors at noon ET Thursday to protest President Trump's executive order barring travelers from seven Muslim-majority countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2017/01/31/512439121/trumps-executive-order-on-immigration-annotated'\">Under the order\u003c/a> signed last Friday, travelers from not only Yemen but also Iraq, Iran, Libya, Somalia, Sudan and Syria are barred from entering the U.S. for 90 days. The order also suspends admissions of new refugees for 120 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-lang=\"en\">\n\u003cp lang=\"und\" dir=\"ltr\">\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/bodegastrike?src=hash\">#bodegastrike\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://t.co/rYrYeXK1XN\">pic.twitter.com/rYrYeXK1XN\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>— katie ???? (@katieraffa) \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/katieraffa/status/827247655042572294\">February 2, 2017\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cscript async src=\"//platform.twitter.com/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\">\u003c/script>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For \u003ca href=\"http://www.wnyc.org/story/yemeni-businesses-shut-their-doors-protest-trump-policies\">Sulaiman Al-Audi\u003c/a>, who works at the Best and Tasty Grocery on 143rd Street, the travel ban sends the message that he is not welcome here. Audi was born in Yemen but has been in the U.S. since 2002.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've been here over a decade, and we've never posed any threat to anybody. We're just here to make a living,\" he told Annmarie Fertoli of NPR member station WNYC.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Audi says he has started the application process to bring his wife and baby to the U.S. But he doesn't know what happens next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Debbie Almontaser, who \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/events/1792162054368070/?active_tab=about\">organized\u003c/a> Thursday's bodega protests, says about 1,000 shops are participating. She says that restaurants and other stores have also closed in solidarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The message that the merchants are sending is that they are part of the American fabric and the Muslim ban has devastated them and their families,\" says Almontaser, who is of Yemeni descent. She too, is personally affected by the new travel restrictions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-lang=\"en\">\n\u003cp lang=\"en\" dir=\"ltr\">Follow \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/BodegaStrike?src=hash\">#BodegaStrike\u003c/a> to get news about ~1,000 \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/NYC?src=hash\">#NYC\u003c/a> bodegas partaking in a strike today from noon to 8 pm to stand against the \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/MuslimBan?src=hash\">#MuslimBan\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"https://t.co/1jKVjgJVf6\">pic.twitter.com/1jKVjgJVf6\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>— Mai El-Sadany (@maitelsadany) \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/maitelsadany/status/827227875736690688\">February 2, 2017\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cscript async src=\"//platform.twitter.com/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\">\u003c/script>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My brother-in-law's wife is still stuck in Jordan,\" she told me. \"She was awaiting her visa and now because of the ban she won't be able to join him and her children.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Best and Tasty Grocery, a sign greeted customers. It read: \"In support of our family, friends and loved ones who are stranded at U.S. airports and overseas, we are closing our business today.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alina Babar, a hospital worker and regular customer, expressed sympathy for the strike. \"I think it's brave of them to take a stand,\" she told WNYC, \"and I think they have every right to do it, and I think that they feel like they're being treated poorly.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many bodega workers and their supporters have gathered for a rally at in Brooklyn Borough Hall in solidarity with the Yemeni-American community. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-lang=\"en\">\n\u003cp lang=\"en\" dir=\"ltr\">In tears at the amazing turn out for \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/hashtag/BodegaStrike?src=hash\">#BodegaStrike\u003c/a> by Yemenis and it's only 3pm. \u003ca href=\"https://t.co/JbFbPHwZLJ\">pic.twitter.com/JbFbPHwZLJ\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>— Dr.Debbie Almontaser (@DebbiAlmontaser) \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/DebbiAlmontaser/status/827246299468722177\">February 2, 2017\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cscript async src=\"//platform.twitter.com/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\">\u003c/script>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Why The Arctic Apple Means You May Be Seeing More GMOs At The Store",
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"content": "\u003cp>Genetically engineered crops are nothing new. But emerging technology that allows scientists to alter plants more precisely and cheaply is taking genetically engineered plants from the field to the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first version of the Arctic Apple, a genetically modified Golden Delicious, is headed for test markets in the Midwest in February, according to the company that produced it. It is the first genetically engineered apple, altered so that when it is cut, it doesn't turn brown from oxidation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.okspecialtyfruits.com/\">Okanagan Specialty Fruits\u003c/a>, based in British Columbia, Canada, wouldn't say exactly where the apples will first be sold, but says the target consumers are those interested in convenience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The rapid expansion of the fresh-cut industry – bagged carrots, ready-made salads – has led to explosive growth of fresh cut produce,\" says Neal Carter, president of the company. \"I can cut this up for my kid's lunch box ... and it doesn't go brown and they'll actually eat it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Arctic Apple is one of the first foods often termed a \"genetically modified organism\" (GMO) to be marketed to consumers, not at farmers. And it's a sign of how the science of genetic engineering is evolving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first genetically engineered crops were global commodities like corn, soybeans and cotton. They were \"transgenic,\" meaning they were resistant to pesticides or insects after scientists transferred new DNA into the plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We were taking DNA sequences from another, often non-plant species, and moving it into plants,\" says Sally Mackenzie, a plant geneticist at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In contrast, new crops are \"cisgenic.\" They work within a plant species' own genome.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The next generation of technologies, those being implemented now — including the new apple – we're not introducing foreign DNA any longer,\" Mackenzie says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Arctic Apple uses a technology called \u003ca href=\"http://www.harvestpublicmedia.org/article/new-crops-could-kill-insects-targeting-their-genes\">RNA interference\u003c/a>, sometimes called gene silencing. The target is the gene in the apple that controls production of the enzyme that makes it turn brown. When scientists add an extra strand of RNA, that gene is effectively switched off, or silenced.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're basically down-regulating a gene that's already within that apple,\" Mackenzie says. \"So I see that as entirely different. And I think it's important for the average consumer to recognize technologies have moved on.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Advances like gene silencing and other gene editing methods, like \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2014/06/26/325213397/a-crispr-way-to-fix-faulty-genes\">CRISPR\u003c/a> technology, make biotech plant-breeding cheaper and more precise than the first generation of genetically engineered crops. New technologies are also less expensive for companies when it comes to federal regulations, as the U.S. Department of Agriculture and the Food and Drug Administration require fewer costly tests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Huge companies like \u003ca href=\"http://www.monsanto.com/\">Monsanto\u003c/a> have dominated the industry, Mackenzie says, in part because of the high cost of regulations. Old biotech crops were aimed at big commodities in large part because it was a sure way to recoup that investment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Engineered plants that don't introduce new genes don't face the same \u003ca href=\"http://www.harvestpublicmedia.org/article/new-genetically-modified-crops-push-old-regulations\">regulatory hurdles\u003c/a>. Groups critical of GMO technology want to see stronger regulations in order to evaluate potential long-term impacts of biotech crops on health and the environment. Federal agencies are reviewing their rules around GMOs to catch up with the technology.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Under the current regulatory structure, however, it is more economically viable, Mackenzie says, for smaller biotech companies to market their own innovations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You're going to see more and more traits coming out that are really consumer friendly, designed to respond to consumer demand,\" Mackenzie says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Corn will still get plenty of attention from plant breeders, but more companies may shift their focus from field to fridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most genetically engineered crops are processed into ingredients in foods, so when we eat them they are a few steps removed from the field – think soybean oil in salad dressing or corn syrup in soda. When the Arctic Apple hits the produce aisle, however, it will be one of the first GMOs to reach consumers directly, but it is not the only one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A virus-resistant \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodsafetynews.com/2014/08/local-ordinance-might-still-kill-hawaiian-papaya-saved-by-genetic-engineering/#.WIlx1VMrLIU\">Rainbow papaya\u003c/a> is already on the shelf. So is \u003ca href=\"http://simplot.com/\">Simplot's\u003c/a> bruise-resistant russet, called the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thepacker.com/news/usda-deregulates-two-more-innate-varieties\">Innate potato\u003c/a>. The fruit company Del Monte has \u003ca href=\"http://www.thepacker.com/news/pink-fda-gives-all-clear-del-monte-pineapple\">approval for a pink pineapple\u003c/a> engineered to carry more lycopene, an antioxidant that supports the body's defense system.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The labels on packages of Arctic Apples won't say much about GMOs. They will have a tell-tale snowflake logo, and a QR code that can be scanned with a smartphone to reach a website with information about the science. That fits within the framework of a \u003ca href=\"http://www.harvestpublicmedia.org/content/5-big-questions-about-us-senate-gmo-label-bill#.WIlmOVMrLIU\">GMO labeling law\u003c/a> passed by Congress last year, but it makes genetic engineering in food less obvious than many consumer groups have called for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The vast majority of consumers \u003ca href=\"http://www.centerforfoodsafety.org/issues/976/ge-food-labeling/us-polls-on-ge-food-labeling\">support clear labels\u003c/a> on foods that contain GMO ingredients, just as the vast majority of scientists \u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencemag.org/news/2016/05/us-panel-releases-consensus-genetically-engineered-crops\">agree that they are safe\u003c/a> to eat. For stores that may sell biotech fruits and vegetables, it pays to be up front with shoppers that these foods are genetically engineered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Transparency is what everything is about,\" says Joan Driggs, editorial director of \u003ca href=\"http://www.progressivegrocer.com/\">Progressive Grocer\u003c/a> which covers the grocery business. \"Any retailer or manufacturer has to be transparent with their customer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The big question for the biotech industry: Once consumers know how these apples are created, will they care?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Arctic Apple's test run will last through March. Okanagan Specialty Fruits expects a wider commercial release this fall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This\u003c/em>\u003cem> story comes to us from \u003ca href=\"http://www.harvestpublicmedia.org/\">Harvest Public Media\u003c/a>, a reporting collaboration focused on food and agriculture. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://netnebraska.org/basic-page/radio/radio\">Nebraska Public Radio Network\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Genetically engineered crops are nothing new. But emerging technology that allows scientists to alter plants more precisely and cheaply is taking genetically engineered plants from the field to the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first version of the Arctic Apple, a genetically modified Golden Delicious, is headed for test markets in the Midwest in February, according to the company that produced it. It is the first genetically engineered apple, altered so that when it is cut, it doesn't turn brown from oxidation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.okspecialtyfruits.com/\">Okanagan Specialty Fruits\u003c/a>, based in British Columbia, Canada, wouldn't say exactly where the apples will first be sold, but says the target consumers are those interested in convenience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The rapid expansion of the fresh-cut industry – bagged carrots, ready-made salads – has led to explosive growth of fresh cut produce,\" says Neal Carter, president of the company. \"I can cut this up for my kid's lunch box ... and it doesn't go brown and they'll actually eat it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Arctic Apple is one of the first foods often termed a \"genetically modified organism\" (GMO) to be marketed to consumers, not at farmers. And it's a sign of how the science of genetic engineering is evolving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first genetically engineered crops were global commodities like corn, soybeans and cotton. They were \"transgenic,\" meaning they were resistant to pesticides or insects after scientists transferred new DNA into the plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We were taking DNA sequences from another, often non-plant species, and moving it into plants,\" says Sally Mackenzie, a plant geneticist at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In contrast, new crops are \"cisgenic.\" They work within a plant species' own genome.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The next generation of technologies, those being implemented now — including the new apple – we're not introducing foreign DNA any longer,\" Mackenzie says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Arctic Apple uses a technology called \u003ca href=\"http://www.harvestpublicmedia.org/article/new-crops-could-kill-insects-targeting-their-genes\">RNA interference\u003c/a>, sometimes called gene silencing. The target is the gene in the apple that controls production of the enzyme that makes it turn brown. When scientists add an extra strand of RNA, that gene is effectively switched off, or silenced.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're basically down-regulating a gene that's already within that apple,\" Mackenzie says. \"So I see that as entirely different. And I think it's important for the average consumer to recognize technologies have moved on.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Advances like gene silencing and other gene editing methods, like \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2014/06/26/325213397/a-crispr-way-to-fix-faulty-genes\">CRISPR\u003c/a> technology, make biotech plant-breeding cheaper and more precise than the first generation of genetically engineered crops. New technologies are also less expensive for companies when it comes to federal regulations, as the U.S. Department of Agriculture and the Food and Drug Administration require fewer costly tests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Huge companies like \u003ca href=\"http://www.monsanto.com/\">Monsanto\u003c/a> have dominated the industry, Mackenzie says, in part because of the high cost of regulations. Old biotech crops were aimed at big commodities in large part because it was a sure way to recoup that investment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Engineered plants that don't introduce new genes don't face the same \u003ca href=\"http://www.harvestpublicmedia.org/article/new-genetically-modified-crops-push-old-regulations\">regulatory hurdles\u003c/a>. Groups critical of GMO technology want to see stronger regulations in order to evaluate potential long-term impacts of biotech crops on health and the environment. Federal agencies are reviewing their rules around GMOs to catch up with the technology.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Under the current regulatory structure, however, it is more economically viable, Mackenzie says, for smaller biotech companies to market their own innovations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You're going to see more and more traits coming out that are really consumer friendly, designed to respond to consumer demand,\" Mackenzie says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Corn will still get plenty of attention from plant breeders, but more companies may shift their focus from field to fridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most genetically engineered crops are processed into ingredients in foods, so when we eat them they are a few steps removed from the field – think soybean oil in salad dressing or corn syrup in soda. When the Arctic Apple hits the produce aisle, however, it will be one of the first GMOs to reach consumers directly, but it is not the only one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A virus-resistant \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodsafetynews.com/2014/08/local-ordinance-might-still-kill-hawaiian-papaya-saved-by-genetic-engineering/#.WIlx1VMrLIU\">Rainbow papaya\u003c/a> is already on the shelf. So is \u003ca href=\"http://simplot.com/\">Simplot's\u003c/a> bruise-resistant russet, called the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thepacker.com/news/usda-deregulates-two-more-innate-varieties\">Innate potato\u003c/a>. The fruit company Del Monte has \u003ca href=\"http://www.thepacker.com/news/pink-fda-gives-all-clear-del-monte-pineapple\">approval for a pink pineapple\u003c/a> engineered to carry more lycopene, an antioxidant that supports the body's defense system.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The labels on packages of Arctic Apples won't say much about GMOs. They will have a tell-tale snowflake logo, and a QR code that can be scanned with a smartphone to reach a website with information about the science. That fits within the framework of a \u003ca href=\"http://www.harvestpublicmedia.org/content/5-big-questions-about-us-senate-gmo-label-bill#.WIlmOVMrLIU\">GMO labeling law\u003c/a> passed by Congress last year, but it makes genetic engineering in food less obvious than many consumer groups have called for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The vast majority of consumers \u003ca href=\"http://www.centerforfoodsafety.org/issues/976/ge-food-labeling/us-polls-on-ge-food-labeling\">support clear labels\u003c/a> on foods that contain GMO ingredients, just as the vast majority of scientists \u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencemag.org/news/2016/05/us-panel-releases-consensus-genetically-engineered-crops\">agree that they are safe\u003c/a> to eat. For stores that may sell biotech fruits and vegetables, it pays to be up front with shoppers that these foods are genetically engineered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Transparency is what everything is about,\" says Joan Driggs, editorial director of \u003ca href=\"http://www.progressivegrocer.com/\">Progressive Grocer\u003c/a> which covers the grocery business. \"Any retailer or manufacturer has to be transparent with their customer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The big question for the biotech industry: Once consumers know how these apples are created, will they care?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Arctic Apple's test run will last through March. Okanagan Specialty Fruits expects a wider commercial release this fall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This\u003c/em>\u003cem> story comes to us from \u003ca href=\"http://www.harvestpublicmedia.org/\">Harvest Public Media\u003c/a>, a reporting collaboration focused on food and agriculture. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://netnebraska.org/basic-page/radio/radio\">Nebraska Public Radio Network\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Switzerland Gets a Foothold in the Northern California Cheese Industry",
"title": "Switzerland Gets a Foothold in the Northern California Cheese Industry",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>What do \u003ca href=\"https://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.redwoodhill.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Redwood Hill Farm and Creamery\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovecheese.com/cheese/\" target=\"_blank\">Cypress Grove Cheese\u003c/a> have in common? Of course, they all produce delicious, award-winning cheese and dairy products that are much-loved throughout the Bay Area. What supermarket dairy case would be complete without blue tubs of Redwood Hill's goat yogurt? What Berkeley cheese plate is without its lavender-and-fennel-scented wheel of Cypress Grove's Purple Haze, its ash-streaked wedge of Humboldt Fog? Is there a cheese drawer in San Francisco complete without a round of Cowgirl Creamery's pungent Red Hawk or buttery Mt Tam? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They're also held up as examples of small-scale, artisanal food products, as successful women-run businesses, as rural job creators, dairy businesses that uphold high standards of animal welfare and support healthy pasture-based ranching and family farms. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what happens when \u003ca href=\"https://us.emmi.com/en/\" target=\"_blank\">Emmi\u003c/a>, a major Swiss-based dairy company, becomes the owner of all three, as well as, most recently, \u003ca href=\"http://meyenberg.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Meyenberg Goat Milk Products\u003c/a>, a Turlock-based family-run dairy and creamery? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The easiest, knee-jerk reaction is to blame the small brands for \"selling out\" as if they were a hip indie band licensing their songs to Budweiser or Chevy, stripping their products of authenticity and artisanal cool. It's what writer Tom Philpott did in a recent Mother Jones post, \u003ca href=\"http://www.motherjones.com/environment/2016/05/three-niche-food-brands-sold-out-week\" target=\"_blank\">Your Favorite Artisanal Food Brand is Probably Owned by a Huge Company\u003c/a>, when he wrote, \"For US cheese lovers like me, the thought of Cowgirl falling into the maw of a large company is like seeing your favorite local coffeehouse get bought by Starbucks.\" Clearly, Philpott's lunch was ruined on the day that \"Spam king\" Hormel \"gobble[d] up\" organic nut butter company Justin's. And it just kept getting worse: \u003ca href=\"http://www.winespectator.com/webfeature/show/id/Jackson-Family-Wines-Buys-Sonoma's-Copa%C3%ADn\" target=\"_blank\">Copain, a Sonoma County niche winery, was \"swallowed\" by Jackson Family Wines\u003c/a>, a nearby wine-biz \"titan,\" then the \"European-style\" Cowgirl was \"snapped up\" by a \"European giant.\" By the end of 2016, Philpott wrote, \"three much-loved small companies succumbed to the appetites of larger players.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet were these gobbled, swallowed, snapped-up companies mere guppies in the fish tank when the Big Food piranhas came calling? The contract lawyers involved would most likely disagree: paying out $286 million for a successful business, as \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodbusinessnews.net/articles/news_home/Financial-Performance/2016/05/What_does_Hormel_see_in_Justin.aspx?ID=%7BA9696DD8-4AC3-4649-BC3A-E57561951905%7D\" target=\"_blank\">Hormel did for Justin's\u003c/a>, is hardly the action of a rogue invader, and the fine print alone must have generated many a billable hour on both sides. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But why is Philpott, and by extension Mother Jones, so determined to make these small companies into victims, undefended and unprotected? Do smaller businesses have to renounce any power or self-agency--or indeed, significant capital-fueled growth--to keep their hipster cred? Is it cool to sell your homemade chocolate peanut butter or goat-milk yogurt at the farmers' market, but not to aspire and succeed in building a multi-million-dollar organic brand? Is selling to a larger company always selling out, and does the product--and the local jobs it sustained--always have to suffer? \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_114900\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new.jpg\" alt=\"From left: Peggy Smith (Cowgirl Creamery), Sue Conley (Cowgirl Creamery), Jennifer Bice (Redwood Hill), Matthias Kunz (Emmi), and Mary Keehn (Cypress Grove) in the Port Room of the San Francisco Ferry Building.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-114900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">From left: Peggy Smith (Cowgirl Creamery), Sue Conley (Cowgirl Creamery), Jennifer Bice (Redwood Hill), Matthias Kunz (Emmi), and Mary Keehn (Cypress Grove) in the Port Room of the San Francisco Ferry Building. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To address some of these issues, along with the future of their dairies and cheesemaking operations, the founders of Redwood Hill, Cowgirl Creamery, and Cypress Grove, along with a representative from Emmi, recently hosted an ask-anything round table talk and Q&A at the Ferry Building with seven members of the media. On hand were writers and editors from Bay Area Bites, San Francisco magazine, Edible Marin and Wine Country, Edible San Francisco, and Culture magazine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mary Keehn (Cypress Grove, started in 1983), Jennifer Bice (Redwood Hill, 1978), Sue Conley and Peggy Smith (Cowgirl Creamery, 1997) are the brain trust of Northern California cheese-making. It's no exaggeration to say that much of the explosion of interest in California farmstead and artisanal cheeses can be traced back to the hard work of these four women. Tally up their collective years of experience in hands-on dairy farming, cheese-making, and cheese-related sales and distribution, and you'll have to measure in centuries, not decades. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which means, like any reigning, graying dynasty without obvious heirs, they are facing the challenges of succession. None of their family members are interested in taking over their companies. (Too many after-school hours spent wrapping and labeling cheese: there's no back-to-the-land romance in being a farmer's kid.) As Keehn said of her four daughters, \"None of them were particularly interested in glorified dishwashing, which is what ninety percent of cheesemaking is.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Selling was the obvious solution, but not one any of them could take lightly. None of them were serial entrepreneurs, drawn to fast growth and a quick sale. Each of them owned just one company, and they'd spent a lifetime building it, dedicated to making high-quality cheese and dairy products while supporting sustainable farming practices and creating jobs along the rolling green pastures of Marin, Sonoma, and Humboldt counties (and, in the case of Cowgirl, in selling and distributing similar farmstead and artisan cheeses). As their companies had grown, so had their support of other businesses around them, creating an interdependent web of jobs and community responsibilities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_114902\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cypress Grove Cheese: A display of 3 cheeses from Cypress Grove\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2196\" class=\"size-full wp-image-114902\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-160x183.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-800x915.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-768x878.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-1020x1167.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-1180x1350.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-960x1098.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-240x275.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-375x429.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-520x595.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cypress Grove Cheese: A display of 3 cheeses from Cypress Grove \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Keehn was the first to take the leap. While she investigated the possibility of transferring ownership into an \u003ca href=\"http://www.esop.org/\" target=\"_blank\">ESOP\u003c/a>, or employee stock ownership plan, the company needed significant capital investment that employees couldn't provide. Already, the scope of the business had outgrown its newly built creamery, as demand grew for fresh cheeses like \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovecheese.com/cheese/fresh-chevre/sgt-pepper.html\" target=\"_blank\">Sgt. Pepper\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovecheese.com/cheese/fresh-chevre/psychedillic.html\" target=\"_blank\">PsycheDillic\u003c/a>, as well as its soft-ripened and aged offerings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even after decades in business, Keehn couldn't find a bank willing to loan the necessary funds. As Keehn pondered, she got into the habit of having a breakfast meeting during the annual winter Fancy Food Show with Matthias Kunz, who had grown up on an 8th-generation family farm in Emmental, Switzerland (yes, that \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emmental_cheese\" target=\"_blank\">Emmental\u003c/a>). Kunz now handled the U.S. division of Swiss dairy giant Emmi, who had recently invested in, then acquired, a Wisconsin cheese company named \u003ca href=\"http://www.rothcheese.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Roth\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We did this for a long time, and we built a friendship,\" said Keehn about their yearly breakfasts, at which Kunz would always probe, delicately, to see if she was ready yet to consider terms. The company had other suitors along the way, but she was determined to find a buyer who would do what she cared about: keep the business in Humboldt county, where they've become a big employer; value the brand and let it \"be weird and quirky like we are, which is really important--I say the culture's not just in the cheese,\" said Keehn. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Swiss-based Emmi, with some $3 billion in annual sales, wasn't an obvious first choice for a business owner dedicated to keeping it small and local. But as the friendship grew between Keehn and Kunz, she learned that 54 percent of the publicly traded company was owned by a farmers' cooperative. In Switzerland, the dairies they worked with averaged 20 to 25 cows. The Swiss cheeses they imported into the U.S. were high-end, and they wanted to continue that profile with the American companies they acquired. No, they weren't local, but they were willing to keep her company where she'd first started it. (Jennifer Bice's parents had sold her her first goats, back in the early 1980s). In 2010, she made a deal with Emmi, while remaining a managing director. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emmi has now invested \"way more than you should have, probably,\" said Keehn to Kunz, laughing. When she started the company in 1983, she said, the \"cheese came before the milk.\" While demand was small, sourcing milk wasn't hard, but as the company grew, its needs often outstripped the ability of local goat dairies to keep up. Now, she says, the company has \"the most beautiful dairy in the United States. Our goats produce half again as much milk as the average California dairy, we're \u003ca href=\"http://www.humaneheartland.org/humane-certified-producers/category/dairies\" target=\"_blank\">humane-certified\u003c/a>, we raise our own baby goats. . . this is not normal for corporate America! We get to do the right thing.\" Employees get benefits, and one percent of profits is reinvested in their community every year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jennifer Bice's parents started their farm in Sebastopol in 1968, then Jennifer took it over and built the creamery in 1978. After decades as the founder and head of Redwood Hill Farm, she's now a managing director as well as a milk supplier, thanks to the 350 goats that she's retained on the original farm. (In 2005, the dairy became the first humane-certified goat dairy in the U.S.) In 2010, the company started a second, and now fast-growing, line, \u003ca href=\"https://greenvalleylactosefree.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Green Valley Organics\u003c/a>, which specializes in lactose-free dairy products, including milk, butter, cream cheese, sour cream, kefir, and yogurt. So when Bice, as an aging owner, was faced with similar issues--no obvious heirs, a need for growth that outstripped the resources available to her 80 employees, a determination to keep the company's values and community responsibilities in place, including livable wages for employees and sustainable milk prices for their suppliers--she talked to Keehn about her five years' experience with Emmi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything was good, said Keehn. The company hadn't been dismantled and moved to Wisconsin. Another dozen jobs had been added. The new dairy was gorgeous and the goats were healthy and happy. There were useful corporate resources, including experienced engineers and dairy scientists, to draw on. The only drawback? Performance reviews--her first, after a lifetime heading her own business--increased paperwork and more detailed accounting, and a long corporate tail that meant change came more slowly and less nimbly than before. Emmi acquired both Redwood Hill and Green Valley in 2015.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Longtime business partners Peggy Smith and Sue Conley came to Point Reyes in the early 1990s and \"got hooked up with the Strauses,\" who were shifting their longtime family dairy over to organic production. They fell in love with the landscape and with the milk. Since both were professional cooks, they started trying to make fresh cheese by hand with Straus milk, and as they \"got hooked into improving our craft,\" Jennifer and Mary became their mentors. When Peggy and Sue opened Tomales Bay Foods in 1997, they sold Jennifer and Mary's cheeses alongside their own. Said Smith, \"When we started, there were seven different local cheesemakers in that region. Now we have 28, and most of them are on-farm producers.\" The growth in cheesemaking has been a boon to the longtime family-run dairies of Sonoma and West Marin, many of whom had been barely keeping up (or losing money) for decades. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Keehn, Conley and Smith knew they were getting older and needed to plan an exit strategy that would ensure a robust future for their employees and partners. They weren't interested in simply cashing out. \"We have such strong ties with our community, and we wanted that to continue on. We have people that we've worked with for a really long time that have helped us develop the business,\" said Smith. \"We looked and looked at ways to sustain the business. And it's so difficult, for agricultural businesses, to find people who are interested in putting money into your business. We could all tell you tall tales of trying to get bank loans.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was 26 years [of being in business] before I got my first bank loan,\" agreed Bice. \"And if they do, it's a very small loan, and your house is on the line [as collateral] and you can't get it off.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Conley and Smith looked at the possibility of an ESOP as well, before deciding against it. \"You only have one opportunity to sell your business,\" said Conley, who noted that selling a business to employees (who would most likely need to put up their own houses as bank-loan collateral) wouldn't preclude the new ownership from selling out to another bidder in the future. But offering the business to an open market didn't seem very appealing, either. \"If you sell it to the highest bidder, who do you get? Kraft?\" asked Conley. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Our intention was to continue to work with our partners--the milk suppliers, the people who make the paper we use to wrap our cheese, the people who haul our waste--and we really wanted a long-term commitment. We work with [local dairy farmer] Albert Straus, we work with the Taylors, we work with Taverna to single-source milk, and I think they've come to rely on us as we rely on them. In working with Emmi, we all said 'We want to maintain our partnerships, we want to maintain who we work with, how we buy from local producers for the cheese we distribute.' \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So it was such a relief to be able to work with someone who understood agriculture, who wasn't looking for a business you could build up in three years and make a huge profit,\" Conley explained. \"This idea is that it's slow growth, which is how we've always done our growth,\" over the past 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Conley and Smith spent months hammering out the details of their contract with Emmi, which was finalized in May 2016. Like Keehn and Bice, they remain as managing directors, and are working to bring the next level of younger managers into the current decision-making loop. Most importantly, said Conley, \"We're still mentoring young cheesemakers--that's a huge part of our mission.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The big value of these three companies is where they are, in their roots in what they do,\" said Kunz, when asked if Emmi could be relied on to keep the businesses local. \"Each company has a totally different culture, but what's common is that they come from strong--very strong!--personalities, which were needed to go over all these hurdles when they were building up these businesses.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And all four women are still, by contract, playing a significant part in their companies' overall decision-making and long-range plans.\"We still pay the same prices, which are probably the highest prices [in the area] for milk, because we really appreciate the quality of milk that we get,\" said Conley. Bice and Keehn pay similarly high prices for their goat milk. (Not to be outdone, Kunz quickly noted that Switzerland has the highest milk prices in the world.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I like to say that it's altruistically selfish,\" said Smith. \"If you do the right thing, it works out.\"\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen reveals how a Swiss dairy giant bought 3 of the Bay Area's favorite local cheese companies--and why that's a good thing. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>What do \u003ca href=\"https://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.redwoodhill.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Redwood Hill Farm and Creamery\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovecheese.com/cheese/\" target=\"_blank\">Cypress Grove Cheese\u003c/a> have in common? Of course, they all produce delicious, award-winning cheese and dairy products that are much-loved throughout the Bay Area. What supermarket dairy case would be complete without blue tubs of Redwood Hill's goat yogurt? What Berkeley cheese plate is without its lavender-and-fennel-scented wheel of Cypress Grove's Purple Haze, its ash-streaked wedge of Humboldt Fog? Is there a cheese drawer in San Francisco complete without a round of Cowgirl Creamery's pungent Red Hawk or buttery Mt Tam? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They're also held up as examples of small-scale, artisanal food products, as successful women-run businesses, as rural job creators, dairy businesses that uphold high standards of animal welfare and support healthy pasture-based ranching and family farms. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what happens when \u003ca href=\"https://us.emmi.com/en/\" target=\"_blank\">Emmi\u003c/a>, a major Swiss-based dairy company, becomes the owner of all three, as well as, most recently, \u003ca href=\"http://meyenberg.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Meyenberg Goat Milk Products\u003c/a>, a Turlock-based family-run dairy and creamery? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The easiest, knee-jerk reaction is to blame the small brands for \"selling out\" as if they were a hip indie band licensing their songs to Budweiser or Chevy, stripping their products of authenticity and artisanal cool. It's what writer Tom Philpott did in a recent Mother Jones post, \u003ca href=\"http://www.motherjones.com/environment/2016/05/three-niche-food-brands-sold-out-week\" target=\"_blank\">Your Favorite Artisanal Food Brand is Probably Owned by a Huge Company\u003c/a>, when he wrote, \"For US cheese lovers like me, the thought of Cowgirl falling into the maw of a large company is like seeing your favorite local coffeehouse get bought by Starbucks.\" Clearly, Philpott's lunch was ruined on the day that \"Spam king\" Hormel \"gobble[d] up\" organic nut butter company Justin's. And it just kept getting worse: \u003ca href=\"http://www.winespectator.com/webfeature/show/id/Jackson-Family-Wines-Buys-Sonoma's-Copa%C3%ADn\" target=\"_blank\">Copain, a Sonoma County niche winery, was \"swallowed\" by Jackson Family Wines\u003c/a>, a nearby wine-biz \"titan,\" then the \"European-style\" Cowgirl was \"snapped up\" by a \"European giant.\" By the end of 2016, Philpott wrote, \"three much-loved small companies succumbed to the appetites of larger players.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet were these gobbled, swallowed, snapped-up companies mere guppies in the fish tank when the Big Food piranhas came calling? The contract lawyers involved would most likely disagree: paying out $286 million for a successful business, as \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodbusinessnews.net/articles/news_home/Financial-Performance/2016/05/What_does_Hormel_see_in_Justin.aspx?ID=%7BA9696DD8-4AC3-4649-BC3A-E57561951905%7D\" target=\"_blank\">Hormel did for Justin's\u003c/a>, is hardly the action of a rogue invader, and the fine print alone must have generated many a billable hour on both sides. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But why is Philpott, and by extension Mother Jones, so determined to make these small companies into victims, undefended and unprotected? Do smaller businesses have to renounce any power or self-agency--or indeed, significant capital-fueled growth--to keep their hipster cred? Is it cool to sell your homemade chocolate peanut butter or goat-milk yogurt at the farmers' market, but not to aspire and succeed in building a multi-million-dollar organic brand? Is selling to a larger company always selling out, and does the product--and the local jobs it sustained--always have to suffer? \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_114900\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new.jpg\" alt=\"From left: Peggy Smith (Cowgirl Creamery), Sue Conley (Cowgirl Creamery), Jennifer Bice (Redwood Hill), Matthias Kunz (Emmi), and Mary Keehn (Cypress Grove) in the Port Room of the San Francisco Ferry Building.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-114900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">From left: Peggy Smith (Cowgirl Creamery), Sue Conley (Cowgirl Creamery), Jennifer Bice (Redwood Hill), Matthias Kunz (Emmi), and Mary Keehn (Cypress Grove) in the Port Room of the San Francisco Ferry Building. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To address some of these issues, along with the future of their dairies and cheesemaking operations, the founders of Redwood Hill, Cowgirl Creamery, and Cypress Grove, along with a representative from Emmi, recently hosted an ask-anything round table talk and Q&A at the Ferry Building with seven members of the media. On hand were writers and editors from Bay Area Bites, San Francisco magazine, Edible Marin and Wine Country, Edible San Francisco, and Culture magazine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mary Keehn (Cypress Grove, started in 1983), Jennifer Bice (Redwood Hill, 1978), Sue Conley and Peggy Smith (Cowgirl Creamery, 1997) are the brain trust of Northern California cheese-making. It's no exaggeration to say that much of the explosion of interest in California farmstead and artisanal cheeses can be traced back to the hard work of these four women. Tally up their collective years of experience in hands-on dairy farming, cheese-making, and cheese-related sales and distribution, and you'll have to measure in centuries, not decades. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which means, like any reigning, graying dynasty without obvious heirs, they are facing the challenges of succession. None of their family members are interested in taking over their companies. (Too many after-school hours spent wrapping and labeling cheese: there's no back-to-the-land romance in being a farmer's kid.) As Keehn said of her four daughters, \"None of them were particularly interested in glorified dishwashing, which is what ninety percent of cheesemaking is.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Selling was the obvious solution, but not one any of them could take lightly. None of them were serial entrepreneurs, drawn to fast growth and a quick sale. Each of them owned just one company, and they'd spent a lifetime building it, dedicated to making high-quality cheese and dairy products while supporting sustainable farming practices and creating jobs along the rolling green pastures of Marin, Sonoma, and Humboldt counties (and, in the case of Cowgirl, in selling and distributing similar farmstead and artisan cheeses). As their companies had grown, so had their support of other businesses around them, creating an interdependent web of jobs and community responsibilities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_114902\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cypress Grove Cheese: A display of 3 cheeses from Cypress Grove\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2196\" class=\"size-full wp-image-114902\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-160x183.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-800x915.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-768x878.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-1020x1167.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-1180x1350.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-960x1098.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-240x275.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-375x429.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-520x595.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cypress Grove Cheese: A display of 3 cheeses from Cypress Grove \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Keehn was the first to take the leap. While she investigated the possibility of transferring ownership into an \u003ca href=\"http://www.esop.org/\" target=\"_blank\">ESOP\u003c/a>, or employee stock ownership plan, the company needed significant capital investment that employees couldn't provide. Already, the scope of the business had outgrown its newly built creamery, as demand grew for fresh cheeses like \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovecheese.com/cheese/fresh-chevre/sgt-pepper.html\" target=\"_blank\">Sgt. Pepper\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovecheese.com/cheese/fresh-chevre/psychedillic.html\" target=\"_blank\">PsycheDillic\u003c/a>, as well as its soft-ripened and aged offerings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even after decades in business, Keehn couldn't find a bank willing to loan the necessary funds. As Keehn pondered, she got into the habit of having a breakfast meeting during the annual winter Fancy Food Show with Matthias Kunz, who had grown up on an 8th-generation family farm in Emmental, Switzerland (yes, that \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emmental_cheese\" target=\"_blank\">Emmental\u003c/a>). Kunz now handled the U.S. division of Swiss dairy giant Emmi, who had recently invested in, then acquired, a Wisconsin cheese company named \u003ca href=\"http://www.rothcheese.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Roth\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We did this for a long time, and we built a friendship,\" said Keehn about their yearly breakfasts, at which Kunz would always probe, delicately, to see if she was ready yet to consider terms. The company had other suitors along the way, but she was determined to find a buyer who would do what she cared about: keep the business in Humboldt county, where they've become a big employer; value the brand and let it \"be weird and quirky like we are, which is really important--I say the culture's not just in the cheese,\" said Keehn. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Swiss-based Emmi, with some $3 billion in annual sales, wasn't an obvious first choice for a business owner dedicated to keeping it small and local. But as the friendship grew between Keehn and Kunz, she learned that 54 percent of the publicly traded company was owned by a farmers' cooperative. In Switzerland, the dairies they worked with averaged 20 to 25 cows. The Swiss cheeses they imported into the U.S. were high-end, and they wanted to continue that profile with the American companies they acquired. No, they weren't local, but they were willing to keep her company where she'd first started it. (Jennifer Bice's parents had sold her her first goats, back in the early 1980s). In 2010, she made a deal with Emmi, while remaining a managing director. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emmi has now invested \"way more than you should have, probably,\" said Keehn to Kunz, laughing. When she started the company in 1983, she said, the \"cheese came before the milk.\" While demand was small, sourcing milk wasn't hard, but as the company grew, its needs often outstripped the ability of local goat dairies to keep up. Now, she says, the company has \"the most beautiful dairy in the United States. Our goats produce half again as much milk as the average California dairy, we're \u003ca href=\"http://www.humaneheartland.org/humane-certified-producers/category/dairies\" target=\"_blank\">humane-certified\u003c/a>, we raise our own baby goats. . . this is not normal for corporate America! We get to do the right thing.\" Employees get benefits, and one percent of profits is reinvested in their community every year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jennifer Bice's parents started their farm in Sebastopol in 1968, then Jennifer took it over and built the creamery in 1978. After decades as the founder and head of Redwood Hill Farm, she's now a managing director as well as a milk supplier, thanks to the 350 goats that she's retained on the original farm. (In 2005, the dairy became the first humane-certified goat dairy in the U.S.) In 2010, the company started a second, and now fast-growing, line, \u003ca href=\"https://greenvalleylactosefree.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Green Valley Organics\u003c/a>, which specializes in lactose-free dairy products, including milk, butter, cream cheese, sour cream, kefir, and yogurt. So when Bice, as an aging owner, was faced with similar issues--no obvious heirs, a need for growth that outstripped the resources available to her 80 employees, a determination to keep the company's values and community responsibilities in place, including livable wages for employees and sustainable milk prices for their suppliers--she talked to Keehn about her five years' experience with Emmi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything was good, said Keehn. The company hadn't been dismantled and moved to Wisconsin. Another dozen jobs had been added. The new dairy was gorgeous and the goats were healthy and happy. There were useful corporate resources, including experienced engineers and dairy scientists, to draw on. The only drawback? Performance reviews--her first, after a lifetime heading her own business--increased paperwork and more detailed accounting, and a long corporate tail that meant change came more slowly and less nimbly than before. Emmi acquired both Redwood Hill and Green Valley in 2015.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Longtime business partners Peggy Smith and Sue Conley came to Point Reyes in the early 1990s and \"got hooked up with the Strauses,\" who were shifting their longtime family dairy over to organic production. They fell in love with the landscape and with the milk. Since both were professional cooks, they started trying to make fresh cheese by hand with Straus milk, and as they \"got hooked into improving our craft,\" Jennifer and Mary became their mentors. When Peggy and Sue opened Tomales Bay Foods in 1997, they sold Jennifer and Mary's cheeses alongside their own. Said Smith, \"When we started, there were seven different local cheesemakers in that region. Now we have 28, and most of them are on-farm producers.\" The growth in cheesemaking has been a boon to the longtime family-run dairies of Sonoma and West Marin, many of whom had been barely keeping up (or losing money) for decades. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Keehn, Conley and Smith knew they were getting older and needed to plan an exit strategy that would ensure a robust future for their employees and partners. They weren't interested in simply cashing out. \"We have such strong ties with our community, and we wanted that to continue on. We have people that we've worked with for a really long time that have helped us develop the business,\" said Smith. \"We looked and looked at ways to sustain the business. And it's so difficult, for agricultural businesses, to find people who are interested in putting money into your business. We could all tell you tall tales of trying to get bank loans.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was 26 years [of being in business] before I got my first bank loan,\" agreed Bice. \"And if they do, it's a very small loan, and your house is on the line [as collateral] and you can't get it off.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Conley and Smith looked at the possibility of an ESOP as well, before deciding against it. \"You only have one opportunity to sell your business,\" said Conley, who noted that selling a business to employees (who would most likely need to put up their own houses as bank-loan collateral) wouldn't preclude the new ownership from selling out to another bidder in the future. But offering the business to an open market didn't seem very appealing, either. \"If you sell it to the highest bidder, who do you get? Kraft?\" asked Conley. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Our intention was to continue to work with our partners--the milk suppliers, the people who make the paper we use to wrap our cheese, the people who haul our waste--and we really wanted a long-term commitment. We work with [local dairy farmer] Albert Straus, we work with the Taylors, we work with Taverna to single-source milk, and I think they've come to rely on us as we rely on them. In working with Emmi, we all said 'We want to maintain our partnerships, we want to maintain who we work with, how we buy from local producers for the cheese we distribute.' \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So it was such a relief to be able to work with someone who understood agriculture, who wasn't looking for a business you could build up in three years and make a huge profit,\" Conley explained. \"This idea is that it's slow growth, which is how we've always done our growth,\" over the past 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Conley and Smith spent months hammering out the details of their contract with Emmi, which was finalized in May 2016. Like Keehn and Bice, they remain as managing directors, and are working to bring the next level of younger managers into the current decision-making loop. Most importantly, said Conley, \"We're still mentoring young cheesemakers--that's a huge part of our mission.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The big value of these three companies is where they are, in their roots in what they do,\" said Kunz, when asked if Emmi could be relied on to keep the businesses local. \"Each company has a totally different culture, but what's common is that they come from strong--very strong!--personalities, which were needed to go over all these hurdles when they were building up these businesses.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And all four women are still, by contract, playing a significant part in their companies' overall decision-making and long-range plans.\"We still pay the same prices, which are probably the highest prices [in the area] for milk, because we really appreciate the quality of milk that we get,\" said Conley. Bice and Keehn pay similarly high prices for their goat milk. (Not to be outdone, Kunz quickly noted that Switzerland has the highest milk prices in the world.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I like to say that it's altruistically selfish,\" said Smith. \"If you do the right thing, it works out.\"\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareportmagazine",
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"order": 10
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM3NjkwNjk1OTAz",
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},
"city-arts": {
"id": "city-arts",
"title": "City Arts & Lectures",
"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/05/cityartsandlecture-300x300.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.cityarts.net/",
"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
"subscribe": {
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/City-Arts-and-Lectures-p692/",
"rss": "https://www.cityarts.net/feed/"
}
},
"closealltabs": {
"id": "closealltabs",
"title": "Close All Tabs",
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"info": "Close All Tabs breaks down how digital culture shapes our world through thoughtful insights and irreverent humor.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/closealltabs",
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"order": 1
},
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"id": "code-switch-life-kit",
"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"meta": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"meta": {
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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},
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"id": "forum",
"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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"id": "freakonomics-radio",
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"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
"airtime": "SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
"subscribe": {
"npr": "https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/4s8b",
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
"rss": "https://feeds.feedburner.com/freakonomicsradio"
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},
"fresh-air": {
"id": "fresh-air",
"title": "Fresh Air",
"info": "Hosted by Terry Gross, \u003cem>Fresh Air from WHYY\u003c/em> is the Peabody Award-winning weekday magazine of contemporary arts and issues. One of public radio's most popular programs, Fresh Air features intimate conversations with today's biggest luminaries.",
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"link": "/radio/program/fresh-air",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/381444908/podcast.xml"
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510051/podcast.xml"
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},
"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
"title": "Hidden Brain",
"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/series/423302056/hidden-brain",
"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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},
"how-i-built-this": {
"id": "how-i-built-this",
"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/howIBuiltThis.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this",
"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
"subscribe": {
"npr": "https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/3zxy",
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510313/podcast.xml"
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},
"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 15
},
"link": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/2p3Fifq96nw9BPcmFdIq0o?si=39209f7b25774f38",
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"rss": "https://feeds.megaphone.fm/KQINC2275451163"
}
},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/id1492194549",
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}
},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
}
},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "http://mastersofscale.app.link/",
"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
"npr": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast",
"stitcher": "https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
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"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "On Our Watch from NPR and KQED",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "kqed",
"order": 11
},
"link": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1567098962",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510360/podcast.xml"
}
},
"on-the-media": {
"id": "on-the-media",
"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm-3pm, MON 12am-1am",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/onTheMedia.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.wnycstudios.org/shows/otm",
"meta": {
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"source": "wnyc"
},
"link": "/radio/program/on-the-media",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/on-the-media/id73330715?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/On-the-Media-p69/",
"rss": "http://feeds.wnyc.org/onthemedia"
}
},
"pbs-newshour": {
"id": "pbs-newshour",
"title": "PBS NewsHour",
"info": "Analysis, background reports and updates from the PBS NewsHour putting today's news in context.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "pbs"
},
"link": "/radio/program/pbs-newshour",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/pbs-newshour-full-show/id394432287?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/",
"rss": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/feeds/rss/podcasts/show"
}
},
"perspectives": {
"id": "perspectives",
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