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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61228\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/edward-lee-headshot.-credit-dan-dry_sq-fe199e159820705d851853e5ef3b6ebaf217fc56-s40.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/edward-lee-headshot.-credit-dan-dry_sq-fe199e159820705d851853e5ef3b6ebaf217fc56-s40.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Edward Lee moved to Louisville, Ky., 10 years ago to take over a restaurant called 610 Magnolia. There, he mixes the sweet of Southern food with the salt and umami of Asian cuisine. Photo: Dan Dry/Artisan Books.\" width=\"1120\" height=\"1121\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61228\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Edward Lee moved to Louisville, Ky., 10 years ago to take over a restaurant called 610 Magnolia. There, he mixes the sweet of Southern food with the salt and umami of Asian cuisine. Photo: Dan Dry/Artisan Books.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/03/180334026/chef-edward-lee-adds-korean-spice-to-southern-comfort-food\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/05/20130503_me_19.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Lydia Zuraw, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/03/180334026/chef-edward-lee-adds-korean-spice-to-southern-comfort-food\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (05/03/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Korean and Southern food may not seem like a natural pair. But now it's one more example of traditions emulsifying in the great American melting pot. Korean-American chef \u003ca href=\"http://chefedwardlee.com/bio/\">Edward Lee\u003c/a> makes that case with his new cookbook \u003cem>Smoke and Pickles: Recipes and Stories From a New Southern Kitchen\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fusion cooking comes naturally to Lee: He grew up in an immigrant neighborhood of Brooklyn surrounded by Jamaicans, Indians, Iranians and Jews.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When they immigrated to America, my parents deliberately decided they weren't going to live in the big Korean enclaves,\" Lee tells \u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> host David Greene. \"They wanted to spread out and be amongst other people. That education in cuisine, ranging from so many different immigrant groups probably left more of a lasting impression on me in cuisine than anything else.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Their whole thing was 'You're an American. Be an American,' \" Lee says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Korean food was a way Lee connected with his grandmother. She rarely spoke of Korea because she didn't have very happy memories, he says, but \"food was the one thing that was kind of sacred and pure and hadn't been torn apart.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61229\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/jacket-smoke-and-pickles_custom-81a07bcc08f7f834a9d2cee2223da2cc755705df-s3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/jacket-smoke-and-pickles_custom-81a07bcc08f7f834a9d2cee2223da2cc755705df-s3.jpg\" alt=\"Edward Lee's first cookbook, <em>Smoke and Pickles: Recipes and Stories From a New Southern Kitchen, </em>features Korean-southern comfort food. <br /><figcaption class=\" wp-caption-text>Photo: Artisan Books\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61229\" />\u003c/a> Edward Lee's first cookbook, \u003cem>Smoke and Pickles: Recipes and Stories From a New Southern Kitchen, \u003c/em>features Korean-southern comfort food. \u003cbr>Photo: Artisan Books.\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As a kid, Lee says he would hang out with her in the kitchen, and at first, she ignored him. \"I would, little by little, start helping her with things,\" he says. \"She got very annoyed by that at first. She's like, 'You're a man. You're not supposed to be here learning how to make kimchi — that's women's work.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the years, he says, they developed a strong bond that relied on few words.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Korean food was also how Lee established himself as a chef. In 1998 he opened a restaurant in Manhattan called Clay, which attracted a clientele that included plenty of celebrities. But the excitement wore off quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everything seemed right on paper: Korean kid opens Korean restaurant,\" he says. \"But it just didn't feel right to me, and I wasn't incredibly proud of the food. I felt like it was just an extension of what I thought people wanted me to cook.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He started to re-evaluate things and decided to travel around the country. The farthest his family had traveled in his childhood was New Jersey. \"That was huge for us,\" he says. \"Although I grew up in America and I was influenced by all of the things that other Americans are, I had no idea what America was. It was this vast unknown beyond New Jersey.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So in 2001 Lee went to places like Wisconsin and Washington, D.C., for the first time. And it was in Louisville at the Kentucky Derby that he fell in love with the South.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within a year he had moved there to take over a restaurant called \u003ca href=\"http://610magnolia.com/\">610 Magnolia\u003c/a> and the fusion instinct kicked in. He started mixing Korean spice with Southern comfort food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Southern food tends to be a little bit on the sweeter side. Asian food tends to be a little bit on the saltier, kind of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=16066892\">umami\u003c/a> side,\" Lee says. \"When they work and you put them together, they are actually are a wonderful marriage.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grits, for example, reminded Lee of congee, a rice porridge Koreans usually eat with soy sauce and seafood. So Lee came up with a recipe for lamb braised in soy sauce and served over grits, transforming the sweet taste of the corn into something new.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or take fried chicken. Koreans actually have a long tradition of frying chicken, Lee says. They just have a slightly different method of preparing the chicken for frying. \"The results are almost similar, but it's just different pathways to the same place,\" he says. \"And I find that a lot in Asian cuisine and Southern cuisine.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Related Stories\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/05/03/180588273/recipes-from-smoke-pickles\">Recipes from \u003cem>Smoke & Pickles\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/03/180334026/chef-edward-lee-adds-korean-spice-to-southern-comfort-food\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Their whole thing was 'You're an American. Be an American,' \" Lee says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Korean food was a way Lee connected with his grandmother. She rarely spoke of Korea because she didn't have very happy memories, he says, but \"food was the one thing that was kind of sacred and pure and hadn't been torn apart.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61229\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/jacket-smoke-and-pickles_custom-81a07bcc08f7f834a9d2cee2223da2cc755705df-s3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/jacket-smoke-and-pickles_custom-81a07bcc08f7f834a9d2cee2223da2cc755705df-s3.jpg\" alt=\"Edward Lee's first cookbook, <em>Smoke and Pickles: Recipes and Stories From a New Southern Kitchen, </em>features Korean-southern comfort food. <br /><figcaption class=\" wp-caption-text>Photo: Artisan Books\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61229\" />\u003c/a> Edward Lee's first cookbook, \u003cem>Smoke and Pickles: Recipes and Stories From a New Southern Kitchen, \u003c/em>features Korean-southern comfort food. \u003cbr>Photo: Artisan Books.\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As a kid, Lee says he would hang out with her in the kitchen, and at first, she ignored him. \"I would, little by little, start helping her with things,\" he says. \"She got very annoyed by that at first. She's like, 'You're a man. You're not supposed to be here learning how to make kimchi — that's women's work.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the years, he says, they developed a strong bond that relied on few words.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Korean food was also how Lee established himself as a chef. In 1998 he opened a restaurant in Manhattan called Clay, which attracted a clientele that included plenty of celebrities. But the excitement wore off quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everything seemed right on paper: Korean kid opens Korean restaurant,\" he says. \"But it just didn't feel right to me, and I wasn't incredibly proud of the food. I felt like it was just an extension of what I thought people wanted me to cook.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He started to re-evaluate things and decided to travel around the country. The farthest his family had traveled in his childhood was New Jersey. \"That was huge for us,\" he says. \"Although I grew up in America and I was influenced by all of the things that other Americans are, I had no idea what America was. It was this vast unknown beyond New Jersey.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So in 2001 Lee went to places like Wisconsin and Washington, D.C., for the first time. And it was in Louisville at the Kentucky Derby that he fell in love with the South.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within a year he had moved there to take over a restaurant called \u003ca href=\"http://610magnolia.com/\">610 Magnolia\u003c/a> and the fusion instinct kicked in. He started mixing Korean spice with Southern comfort food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Southern food tends to be a little bit on the sweeter side. Asian food tends to be a little bit on the saltier, kind of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=16066892\">umami\u003c/a> side,\" Lee says. \"When they work and you put them together, they are actually are a wonderful marriage.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grits, for example, reminded Lee of congee, a rice porridge Koreans usually eat with soy sauce and seafood. So Lee came up with a recipe for lamb braised in soy sauce and served over grits, transforming the sweet taste of the corn into something new.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or take fried chicken. Koreans actually have a long tradition of frying chicken, Lee says. They just have a slightly different method of preparing the chicken for frying. \"The results are almost similar, but it's just different pathways to the same place,\" he says. \"And I find that a lot in Asian cuisine and Southern cuisine.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Related Stories\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/05/03/180588273/recipes-from-smoke-pickles\">Recipes from \u003cem>Smoke & Pickles\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/03/180334026/chef-edward-lee-adds-korean-spice-to-southern-comfort-food\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61187\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/skull-chops_custom-a7ae77efef0ec7123cadf862f316c7cc382d9137-s40.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/skull-chops_custom-a7ae77efef0ec7123cadf862f316c7cc382d9137-s40.jpg\" alt='The four cuts at the top of this skull \"are clear chops to the forehead,\" says Smithsonian forensic anthropologist Douglas Owsley. Based on forensic evidence, researchers think the blows were made after the person died. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian' width=\"1120\" height=\"1211\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61187\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The four cuts at the top of this skull \"are clear chops to the forehead,\" says Smithsonian forensic anthropologist Douglas Owsley. Based on forensic evidence, researchers think the blows were made after the person died. \u003cbr>Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/01/180314773/bones-tell-tale-of-desperation-among-the-starving-at-jamestown\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/05/20130501_atc_20.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2100689/christopher-joyce\">Christopher Joyce\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/01/180314773/bones-tell-tale-of-desperation-among-the-starving-at-jamestown\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (05/02/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"First they ate their horses, and then fed upon their dogs and cats, as well as rats, mice and snakes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So says James Horn of the historical group \u003ca href=\"http://www.history.org/\">Colonial Williamsburg\u003c/a>, paraphrasing an account by colony leader George Percy of what conditions were like for the hundreds of men and women stranded in Jamestown, Va., with little food in the dead of winter in 1609.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They even ate their shoes. And, apparently, at least one person.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scientists who have recovered human bones from the English colony at Jamestown announced Wednesday that they show the marks of cannibalism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's long been debated whether the colonists resorted to eating each other during \"the starving time\" of 1609 to 1610. The weather was harsh, and the hostile Indians were even harsher. Only 60 colonists survived that winter. This new finding would be the first hard evidence of cannibalism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last summer, Jamestown's chief archaeologist, \u003ca href=\"http://apva.org/rediscovery/page.php?page_id=185\">William Kelso\u003c/a>, dug up a human skull and a few other bones, along with some food remains. But these bones were different from others he'd found.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61188\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/facial-reconstruction-651c03d4b14b2d0c95e08d736e07650d34022e8f-s3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/facial-reconstruction-651c03d4b14b2d0c95e08d736e07650d34022e8f-s3.jpg\" alt='This forensic facial reconstruction shows what the 14-year-old, nicknamed \"Jane,\" may have looked like. Scientists say the remains found at Jamestown are evidence of cannibalism over the winter of 1609-1610. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian' width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61188\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This forensic facial reconstruction shows what the 14-year-old, nicknamed \"Jane,\" may have looked like. Scientists say the remains found at Jamestown are evidence of cannibalism over the winter of 1609-1610. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The damage to the skull, and finding it with the other food remains, brought on serious thoughts that this was, indeed, evidence of survival cannibalism,\" Kelso says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kelso took the bones to the Smithsonian's Douglas Owsley, a renowned forensic anthropologist who has solved numerous criminal cases, as well as archaeological mysteries, based on human bones. Owsley determined that the Jamestown bones belonged to a girl, aged 14. They don't know anything about her, but have given her a name: Jane.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owsley found numerous cut marks on the cranium and jaw, all apparently done after the girl had died. \"There are clear chops to the forehead. They are very closely spaced,\" Owsley says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These vertical cuts are evenly spaced and regular, and thus, he says, not the kind of wound you see in a struggle, but more likely made on a corpse. \"There are four chops to the back of the cranium,\" Owsley says — apparently, they were made as the assailant was trying to open her skull. It was done in a very unskillful way, Owsley notes. Then, there was a final chop that completely fractured the skull open.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owsley also found marks on the jaw that looked like the result of sawing with a sharp object, and also compression fractures made by a knife point. On the only fragment of leg bone the researchers had, there were more cut marks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61190\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mandible-cut-marks_wide-d1a52897aa55fce8e46f7488436b07af584a80fe-s40.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mandible-cut-marks_wide-d1a52897aa55fce8e46f7488436b07af584a80fe-s40.jpg\" alt=\"Markings on the lower side of the jaw look like they were sawed with a sharp object, says forensic anthropologist Douglas Owsley. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian\" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61190\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Markings on the lower side of the jaw look like they were sawed with a sharp object, says forensic anthropologist Douglas Owsley. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian\u003cbr>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://anthropology.si.edu/writteninbone/forensic_anthro_smithsonian.html\">Forensic scientists\u003c/a> usually can differentiate marks left by gnawing animals from those made by sharp instruments. Along with the written accounts, Owsley says the evidence points to cannibalism. \"Given the context of all of this put together, and the multiple, multiple cuts,\" he says, \"this is not anything that is done out of spite or vengeance or anything like that. It is, I think, a very clear intent.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The team has glued the skull back together and also sculpted a re-creation of what Jane would have looked like in the flesh, which they displayed today at the press conference: English, high cheekbones, regular features, pretty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smithsonian anthropologist \u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianeducation.org/scientist/bruwelheide.html\">Kari Bruwelheide\u003c/a> was on the team. \"When you have evidence of an event that's written down and recorded and talked about by survivors 400 years ago, it added weight to history. I mean, it truly is kind of a special kind of case,\" she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's special also because archaeologists are skeptical about claims of cannibalism. \u003ca href=\"http://fieldmuseum.org/users/jonathan-haas\">Jonathan Haas\u003c/a> at the Field Museum in Chicago says \"cannibalism science\" demands several types of evidence. The opening of the skull and the historical accounts are two good ones, but he says the other cut marks don't prove cannibalism, but only severe violence done to a girl's body.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haas says scientists need a suite of several lines of evidence, all pointing to the same conclusion. \"If I find cut marks showing the defleshing from the long bones, if I see cracking of the long bones, if I see cooking, then I can begin to much more definitively say that there was cannibalism being practiced,\" Haas says. He says archaeologically, more proof is still needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given that this was England's first successful colony in the New World, and the nature of the claim, it's likely that the cannibalism finding will generate a lively scientific debate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/01/180314773/bones-tell-tale-of-desperation-among-the-starving-at-jamestown\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The winter of 1609-1610 has been called the \"starving time\" for the hundreds of men and women who settled the English colony of Jamestown, Va. They ate their horses, their pets — and, apparently, at least one person. Scientists say human bones recovered from the site provide the first hard evidence that the colonists may have resorted to cannibalism.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61187\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/skull-chops_custom-a7ae77efef0ec7123cadf862f316c7cc382d9137-s40.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/skull-chops_custom-a7ae77efef0ec7123cadf862f316c7cc382d9137-s40.jpg\" alt='The four cuts at the top of this skull \"are clear chops to the forehead,\" says Smithsonian forensic anthropologist Douglas Owsley. Based on forensic evidence, researchers think the blows were made after the person died. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian' width=\"1120\" height=\"1211\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61187\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The four cuts at the top of this skull \"are clear chops to the forehead,\" says Smithsonian forensic anthropologist Douglas Owsley. Based on forensic evidence, researchers think the blows were made after the person died. \u003cbr>Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/01/180314773/bones-tell-tale-of-desperation-among-the-starving-at-jamestown\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2100689/christopher-joyce\">Christopher Joyce\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/01/180314773/bones-tell-tale-of-desperation-among-the-starving-at-jamestown\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (05/02/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"First they ate their horses, and then fed upon their dogs and cats, as well as rats, mice and snakes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So says James Horn of the historical group \u003ca href=\"http://www.history.org/\">Colonial Williamsburg\u003c/a>, paraphrasing an account by colony leader George Percy of what conditions were like for the hundreds of men and women stranded in Jamestown, Va., with little food in the dead of winter in 1609.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They even ate their shoes. And, apparently, at least one person.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scientists who have recovered human bones from the English colony at Jamestown announced Wednesday that they show the marks of cannibalism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's long been debated whether the colonists resorted to eating each other during \"the starving time\" of 1609 to 1610. The weather was harsh, and the hostile Indians were even harsher. Only 60 colonists survived that winter. This new finding would be the first hard evidence of cannibalism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last summer, Jamestown's chief archaeologist, \u003ca href=\"http://apva.org/rediscovery/page.php?page_id=185\">William Kelso\u003c/a>, dug up a human skull and a few other bones, along with some food remains. But these bones were different from others he'd found.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61188\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/facial-reconstruction-651c03d4b14b2d0c95e08d736e07650d34022e8f-s3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/facial-reconstruction-651c03d4b14b2d0c95e08d736e07650d34022e8f-s3.jpg\" alt='This forensic facial reconstruction shows what the 14-year-old, nicknamed \"Jane,\" may have looked like. Scientists say the remains found at Jamestown are evidence of cannibalism over the winter of 1609-1610. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian' width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61188\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This forensic facial reconstruction shows what the 14-year-old, nicknamed \"Jane,\" may have looked like. Scientists say the remains found at Jamestown are evidence of cannibalism over the winter of 1609-1610. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The damage to the skull, and finding it with the other food remains, brought on serious thoughts that this was, indeed, evidence of survival cannibalism,\" Kelso says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kelso took the bones to the Smithsonian's Douglas Owsley, a renowned forensic anthropologist who has solved numerous criminal cases, as well as archaeological mysteries, based on human bones. Owsley determined that the Jamestown bones belonged to a girl, aged 14. They don't know anything about her, but have given her a name: Jane.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owsley found numerous cut marks on the cranium and jaw, all apparently done after the girl had died. \"There are clear chops to the forehead. They are very closely spaced,\" Owsley says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These vertical cuts are evenly spaced and regular, and thus, he says, not the kind of wound you see in a struggle, but more likely made on a corpse. \"There are four chops to the back of the cranium,\" Owsley says — apparently, they were made as the assailant was trying to open her skull. It was done in a very unskillful way, Owsley notes. Then, there was a final chop that completely fractured the skull open.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owsley also found marks on the jaw that looked like the result of sawing with a sharp object, and also compression fractures made by a knife point. On the only fragment of leg bone the researchers had, there were more cut marks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61190\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mandible-cut-marks_wide-d1a52897aa55fce8e46f7488436b07af584a80fe-s40.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mandible-cut-marks_wide-d1a52897aa55fce8e46f7488436b07af584a80fe-s40.jpg\" alt=\"Markings on the lower side of the jaw look like they were sawed with a sharp object, says forensic anthropologist Douglas Owsley. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian\" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61190\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Markings on the lower side of the jaw look like they were sawed with a sharp object, says forensic anthropologist Douglas Owsley. Photo: Donald E. Hurlbert/Smithsonian\u003cbr>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://anthropology.si.edu/writteninbone/forensic_anthro_smithsonian.html\">Forensic scientists\u003c/a> usually can differentiate marks left by gnawing animals from those made by sharp instruments. Along with the written accounts, Owsley says the evidence points to cannibalism. \"Given the context of all of this put together, and the multiple, multiple cuts,\" he says, \"this is not anything that is done out of spite or vengeance or anything like that. It is, I think, a very clear intent.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The team has glued the skull back together and also sculpted a re-creation of what Jane would have looked like in the flesh, which they displayed today at the press conference: English, high cheekbones, regular features, pretty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smithsonian anthropologist \u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianeducation.org/scientist/bruwelheide.html\">Kari Bruwelheide\u003c/a> was on the team. \"When you have evidence of an event that's written down and recorded and talked about by survivors 400 years ago, it added weight to history. I mean, it truly is kind of a special kind of case,\" she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's special also because archaeologists are skeptical about claims of cannibalism. \u003ca href=\"http://fieldmuseum.org/users/jonathan-haas\">Jonathan Haas\u003c/a> at the Field Museum in Chicago says \"cannibalism science\" demands several types of evidence. The opening of the skull and the historical accounts are two good ones, but he says the other cut marks don't prove cannibalism, but only severe violence done to a girl's body.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haas says scientists need a suite of several lines of evidence, all pointing to the same conclusion. \"If I find cut marks showing the defleshing from the long bones, if I see cracking of the long bones, if I see cooking, then I can begin to much more definitively say that there was cannibalism being practiced,\" Haas says. He says archaeologically, more proof is still needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given that this was England's first successful colony in the New World, and the nature of the claim, it's likely that the cannibalism finding will generate a lively scientific debate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/01/180314773/bones-tell-tale-of-desperation-among-the-starving-at-jamestown\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "How Coffee Influenced The Course Of History",
"title": "How Coffee Influenced The Course Of History",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60714\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffeeslavery.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffeeslavery.jpg\" alt=\"An overseer sits in the shade while workers collect coffee beans on a Brazilian plantation, circa 1750. Photo: Hulton Archive/Getty Images\" width=\"624\" height=\"467\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60714\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An overseer sits in the shade while workers collect coffee beans on a Brazilian plantation, circa 1750.\u003cbr>Photo: Hulton Archive/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/24/178625554/how-coffee-influenced-the-course-of-history\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/04/20130424_me_14.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Lydia Zuraw, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/24/178625554/how-coffee-influenced-the-course-of-history\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (04/24/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coffee is a powerful beverage. On a personal level, it helps keep us awake and active. On a much broader level, it has helped shape our history and continues to shape our culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coffee plants grow wild in Ethiopia and were probably used by nomadic tribes for thousands of years, but it wasn't until the 1400s that people figured out they could roast its seeds. \"Then it really took off,\" historian \u003ca href=\"http://markpendergrast.com/\">Mark Pendergrast\u003c/a> — author of \u003cem>Uncommon Grounds: The History of Coffee and How It Transformed Our World\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>— tells \u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> host Steve Inskeep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the 1500s, he says, the drink had spread to coffeehouses across the Arab world. Within another 150 years, it took Europe by storm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/178812261/uncommon-grounds-the-history-of-coffee-and-how-it-transformed-our-world\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffeeslavery2.jpg\" alt=\"Uncommon Grounds\" width=\"250\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-60715\">\u003c/a>\"It actually had a major impact on the rise of business,\" Pendergrast says. Coffeehouses became a spot not just to enjoy a cup but to exchange ideas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The insurer \u003ca href=\"http://www.lloyds.com/lloyds/about-us/history\">Lloyd's of London\u003c/a> was founded hundreds of years ago in one of London's 2,000 coffeehouses, he notes. Literature, newspapers and even the works of great composers like Bach and Beethoven were also spawned in coffeehouses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is often said that after the Boston Tea Party of 1773, when American colonists raided British tea ships and threw crates of tea into the harbor, Americans universally switched over to drinking coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's a lot of truth to the story, I found,\" Pendergrast says. He cites a letter John Adams wrote to his wife, Abigail, in which the Founding Father proclaims his love of tea but says he will have to learn to embrace coffee instead, because drinking tea had become unpatriotic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For all the upsides coffee has brought the modern world, it also ushered in its fair share of downsides, too. Europeans carried coffee with them as they colonized various parts of the world, and this frequently meant they enslaved people in order to grow it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One of the ironies about coffee is it makes people think. It sort of creates egalitarian places — coffeehouses where people can come together — and so the French Revolution and the American Revolution were \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/01/10/144988133/drink-coffee-off-with-your-head\">planned\u003c/a> in coffeehouses,\" Pendergrast says. \"On the other hand, that same coffee that was fueling the French Revolution was also being produced by African slaves who had been taken to San Domingo, which we now know as Haiti.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Brazil — where slavery was legal until 1888 — coffee plantations would use slash-and-burn agriculture, tearing down rain forests and planting coffee trees that depleted the nutrients in soil. Once the soil had been sapped, growers would move on to another place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there are history's many coffee naysayers. In 1511, for example, the governor of Mecca banned coffee because his medical advisers warned it was bad for people's health. In 1674, women in London were convinced that coffee made their husbands impotent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, in an age when \u003ca href=\"http://artsbeat.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/02/29/beer-soup-for-the-overcaffeinated-soul/\">beer soup\u003c/a> was the breakfast of champions, coffee had one undeniable health benefit: \"Western civilization sobered up,\" Pendergrast says. Coffee, he says, \"had a very good impact in many ways on our civilization, even though it was, for a long time, grown by slaves.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Once people figured out how to roast the seeds of the \u003cem>Coffea\u003c/em> plant in the 1400s, coffee took over the world. In doing so, it fueled creativity, revolutions, new business ventures, literature, music — and slavery.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60714\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffeeslavery.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffeeslavery.jpg\" alt=\"An overseer sits in the shade while workers collect coffee beans on a Brazilian plantation, circa 1750. Photo: Hulton Archive/Getty Images\" width=\"624\" height=\"467\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60714\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An overseer sits in the shade while workers collect coffee beans on a Brazilian plantation, circa 1750.\u003cbr>Photo: Hulton Archive/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/24/178625554/how-coffee-influenced-the-course-of-history\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Lydia Zuraw, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/24/178625554/how-coffee-influenced-the-course-of-history\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (04/24/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coffee is a powerful beverage. On a personal level, it helps keep us awake and active. On a much broader level, it has helped shape our history and continues to shape our culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coffee plants grow wild in Ethiopia and were probably used by nomadic tribes for thousands of years, but it wasn't until the 1400s that people figured out they could roast its seeds. \"Then it really took off,\" historian \u003ca href=\"http://markpendergrast.com/\">Mark Pendergrast\u003c/a> — author of \u003cem>Uncommon Grounds: The History of Coffee and How It Transformed Our World\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>— tells \u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> host Steve Inskeep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the 1500s, he says, the drink had spread to coffeehouses across the Arab world. Within another 150 years, it took Europe by storm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/178812261/uncommon-grounds-the-history-of-coffee-and-how-it-transformed-our-world\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/coffeeslavery2.jpg\" alt=\"Uncommon Grounds\" width=\"250\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-60715\">\u003c/a>\"It actually had a major impact on the rise of business,\" Pendergrast says. Coffeehouses became a spot not just to enjoy a cup but to exchange ideas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The insurer \u003ca href=\"http://www.lloyds.com/lloyds/about-us/history\">Lloyd's of London\u003c/a> was founded hundreds of years ago in one of London's 2,000 coffeehouses, he notes. Literature, newspapers and even the works of great composers like Bach and Beethoven were also spawned in coffeehouses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is often said that after the Boston Tea Party of 1773, when American colonists raided British tea ships and threw crates of tea into the harbor, Americans universally switched over to drinking coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's a lot of truth to the story, I found,\" Pendergrast says. He cites a letter John Adams wrote to his wife, Abigail, in which the Founding Father proclaims his love of tea but says he will have to learn to embrace coffee instead, because drinking tea had become unpatriotic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For all the upsides coffee has brought the modern world, it also ushered in its fair share of downsides, too. Europeans carried coffee with them as they colonized various parts of the world, and this frequently meant they enslaved people in order to grow it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One of the ironies about coffee is it makes people think. It sort of creates egalitarian places — coffeehouses where people can come together — and so the French Revolution and the American Revolution were \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/01/10/144988133/drink-coffee-off-with-your-head\">planned\u003c/a> in coffeehouses,\" Pendergrast says. \"On the other hand, that same coffee that was fueling the French Revolution was also being produced by African slaves who had been taken to San Domingo, which we now know as Haiti.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Brazil — where slavery was legal until 1888 — coffee plantations would use slash-and-burn agriculture, tearing down rain forests and planting coffee trees that depleted the nutrients in soil. Once the soil had been sapped, growers would move on to another place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there are history's many coffee naysayers. In 1511, for example, the governor of Mecca banned coffee because his medical advisers warned it was bad for people's health. In 1674, women in London were convinced that coffee made their husbands impotent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, in an age when \u003ca href=\"http://artsbeat.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/02/29/beer-soup-for-the-overcaffeinated-soul/\">beer soup\u003c/a> was the breakfast of champions, coffee had one undeniable health benefit: \"Western civilization sobered up,\" Pendergrast says. Coffee, he says, \"had a very good impact in many ways on our civilization, even though it was, for a long time, grown by slaves.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "From Vine To Pen: When Your Drink Is In The Ink",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60259\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/writing-ink.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/writing-ink-1024x992.jpg\" alt='Ernest Hemingway once said, \"A man does not exist until he is drunk. Photo: AP' width=\"1024\" height=\"992\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60259\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ernest Hemingway once said, \"A man does not exist until he is drunk. Photo: AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Lydia Zuraw, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/03/176121775/from-vine-to-pen-theres-more-than-one-way-wine-fuels-writing\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/18/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sure, we all know alcohol has fueled plenty a writing session. William Faulkner — who once said, \"civilization begins with distillation\" — was \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2006/12/15/6624971/great-american-writers-and-their-cocktails\">known\u003c/a> to have kept a bottle by his side while he typed away throughout his writing career.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for centuries, writers relied on alcohol to keep the words flowing in a far less boozy form than the Burroughs and Hemingways of literary history: the wine ink pen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wine, it turns out, was a key ingredient in many recipes for iron gall ink — for all you non-ink nerds, that was the writing ink used by most of the Western world from the Middle Ages all the way up to the 19th century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Anyone anywhere near famous will have something in iron gall ink,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.loc.gov/today/pr/2013/13-038.html\">Elmer Eusman\u003c/a>, head of the conservation division at the Library of Congress.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003ca href=\"http://www.archives.gov/press/press-releases/2011/nr11-152.html\">1297 copy\u003c/a> of history's great political document the Magna Carta was penned in the stuff. Van Gogh drew with it, Da Vinci jotted notes with it, and Bach composed with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The practice of adding wine into historic inks was quite widespread,\" says chemist \u003ca href=\"https://iris.ucl.ac.uk/iris/browse/profile?upi=MSTRL90\">Matija Strlic\u003c/a>, a senior lecturer at University College London who has worked with historic parchments and inks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chemistry involved can get pretty wonky, but basically, the wine was believed to make the coloring agents in ink more stable. Wine was also considered a purer solvent than water. And iron gall inks were prized because they were so indelible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So why did these inks fall out of favor? Sadly, they didn't play nice with the newfangled steel pens of the 19th century, says \u003ca href=\"http://thewalters.org/conservation/staff.aspx\">Abigail Quandt,\u003c/a> head of book and paper conservation at the Walters Art Museum in Baltimore. The inks corroded the writing implements, so different formulations had to be developed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which conservators would probably say is a good thing. The inks weren't just corroding pens, but also the paper on which historic documents were written. In some of Rembrandt's drawings, for example, the ink has made the paper fragile and brittle, Eusman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, the wine ink tradition is not completely dead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3i7MALxLU0]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recently, Spanish winery \u003ca href=\"http://www.casamariol.com/en/\">Casa Mariol\u003c/a> unwittingly revived it when it decided to send pens filled with a cabernet sauvignon-based ink to potential clients as part of a new marketing scheme.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You cheer with wine after an agreement and, with our wine pen, you can even sign the agreement with the wine,\" Miguel Angel Vaquer — who runs the family business with his siblings — tells The Salt in an email. He didn't mention whether the pens had drummed up wine sales, but he did say that people around the world have been asking about buying their wine ink pens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not clear how long interest will last, if recent history is any guide. Brian Goulet says he used to stock wine inks from a German company for his \u003ca href=\"http://www.gouletpens.com/\">Goulet Pen Co.\u003c/a> but doesn't anymore. Apparently, they didn't sell very well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"As fountain pen inks, they performed OK,\" he says. \"It was more the novelty of the fact they smelled like the wine they were made from that appealed to people.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60259\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/writing-ink.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/writing-ink-1024x992.jpg\" alt='Ernest Hemingway once said, \"A man does not exist until he is drunk. Photo: AP' width=\"1024\" height=\"992\" class=\"size-large wp-image-60259\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ernest Hemingway once said, \"A man does not exist until he is drunk. Photo: AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Lydia Zuraw, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/03/176121775/from-vine-to-pen-theres-more-than-one-way-wine-fuels-writing\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/18/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sure, we all know alcohol has fueled plenty a writing session. William Faulkner — who once said, \"civilization begins with distillation\" — was \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2006/12/15/6624971/great-american-writers-and-their-cocktails\">known\u003c/a> to have kept a bottle by his side while he typed away throughout his writing career.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for centuries, writers relied on alcohol to keep the words flowing in a far less boozy form than the Burroughs and Hemingways of literary history: the wine ink pen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wine, it turns out, was a key ingredient in many recipes for iron gall ink — for all you non-ink nerds, that was the writing ink used by most of the Western world from the Middle Ages all the way up to the 19th century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Anyone anywhere near famous will have something in iron gall ink,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.loc.gov/today/pr/2013/13-038.html\">Elmer Eusman\u003c/a>, head of the conservation division at the Library of Congress.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003ca href=\"http://www.archives.gov/press/press-releases/2011/nr11-152.html\">1297 copy\u003c/a> of history's great political document the Magna Carta was penned in the stuff. Van Gogh drew with it, Da Vinci jotted notes with it, and Bach composed with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The practice of adding wine into historic inks was quite widespread,\" says chemist \u003ca href=\"https://iris.ucl.ac.uk/iris/browse/profile?upi=MSTRL90\">Matija Strlic\u003c/a>, a senior lecturer at University College London who has worked with historic parchments and inks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chemistry involved can get pretty wonky, but basically, the wine was believed to make the coloring agents in ink more stable. Wine was also considered a purer solvent than water. And iron gall inks were prized because they were so indelible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So why did these inks fall out of favor? Sadly, they didn't play nice with the newfangled steel pens of the 19th century, says \u003ca href=\"http://thewalters.org/conservation/staff.aspx\">Abigail Quandt,\u003c/a> head of book and paper conservation at the Walters Art Museum in Baltimore. The inks corroded the writing implements, so different formulations had to be developed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which conservators would probably say is a good thing. The inks weren't just corroding pens, but also the paper on which historic documents were written. In some of Rembrandt's drawings, for example, the ink has made the paper fragile and brittle, Eusman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, the wine ink tradition is not completely dead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/_3i7MALxLU0'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/_3i7MALxLU0'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recently, Spanish winery \u003ca href=\"http://www.casamariol.com/en/\">Casa Mariol\u003c/a> unwittingly revived it when it decided to send pens filled with a cabernet sauvignon-based ink to potential clients as part of a new marketing scheme.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You cheer with wine after an agreement and, with our wine pen, you can even sign the agreement with the wine,\" Miguel Angel Vaquer — who runs the family business with his siblings — tells The Salt in an email. He didn't mention whether the pens had drummed up wine sales, but he did say that people around the world have been asking about buying their wine ink pens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not clear how long interest will last, if recent history is any guide. Brian Goulet says he used to stock wine inks from a German company for his \u003ca href=\"http://www.gouletpens.com/\">Goulet Pen Co.\u003c/a> but doesn't anymore. Apparently, they didn't sell very well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"As fountain pen inks, they performed OK,\" he says. \"It was more the novelty of the fact they smelled like the wine they were made from that appealed to people.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Good vs. Evil Tour Report: Bourdain and Ripert Make Fun of Each Other",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59956\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BourdainRipert500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BourdainRipert500.jpg\" alt=\"Anthony Bourdain and Eric Ripert photo courtesy of Good vs. Evil\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59956\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anthony Bourdain and Eric Ripert.\u003cbr> Photo courtesy of Good vs. Evil\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/13/qa-anthony-bourdain-says-he%E2%80%99s-in-a-zen-like-state/\">Anthony Bourdain\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.aveceric.com/eric-ripert/\">Eric Ripert\u003c/a> took to a San Francisco stage on Friday night, where they made fun of each other and riffed on everything from hipsters to Mission Chinese Food to Paula Deen—some familiar territory with new culinary nuggets tossed in. We spotted the \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/thedapperdiner\">Dapper Diner\u003c/a> and Chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.piperade.com/index.php/about\">Gerard Hirigoyen\u003c/a> in attendance, and the Orpheum Theatre appeared to be sold out. La Cocina’s Caleb Zigas was at the backstage VIP after-party, where bites and a cake in the form of a duck press were on offer from \u003ca href=\"http://andapiroshki.com/\">AйDa Piroshki\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://onigilly.com/\">Onigilly\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://huaracheloco.com/\">El Huarache Loco\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.inticingcreations.com/hello/\">Inticing Creations\u003c/a>. Zigas memorably chatted with Bourdain at Dolores Park for his San Francisco episode of \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2012/01/05/bourdain_post.php\">The Layover\u003c/a>\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The two rather famous best friends wore similar dark suits and their set looked like the boxing matches from the 1940s and 1950s, with one ominous lamp shining over an uncomfortable chair against a dark backdrop. It was a night that was billed as \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.goodvseviltour.com/\">Good vs. Evil\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, and started out with Bourdain interrogating Ripert. One of the nicest surprises was how well Ripert was able to dish back to his pal Tony with that rather sexy French accent of his.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59953\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Orpheum500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Orpheum500.jpg\" alt=\"Orpheum Theatre. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59953\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Orpheum Theatre. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003cbr>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bourdain is a \u003ca href=\"http://jalapeno.typepad.com/my_weblog/2006/06/nasty_bits_offa.html\">personal friend\u003c/a> and appeared to take the lead in the two-hour show. He may have had a major hand in writing much of the script—especially telling was the fact that he brought up the question of who would do the actual physical labor if more of our society had access to organic products. This is a refrain we’ve heard before, even when we were filming for his \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em> show over dinner at Incanto restaurant in 2009. Bourdain is up front that he is a “total hypocrite” and his own daughter, who he referred to as a “little angel” gets organic food all the time. Bourdain’s wife, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/OttaviaBourdain\">Ottavia\u003c/a>, on the other hand, eats only “mountains of protein and no carbs at all,” because she is a trained fighter. Ottavia is a columnist for \u003ca href=\"http://www.vice.com/read/ottavia-bourdain-my-jiu-jitsu-addiction\">Vice\u003c/a> magazine and accepted an assignment to eat vegetarian for a week to see if and how it would affect her training ability. Bourdain joined her for two nights of no-meat and came away unimpressed by restaurants that seemed stuck in a glut of serving dishes that had vegetables like broccoli and carrots with tamari, garlic and ginger--a flavor combo that he ranked as dated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bourdain and Ripert were in town for a short amount of time before heading to San Jose for a Saturday night show. Later tweets showed that \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Bourdain\">Tony\u003c/a> planned on hitting up a \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Bourdain/status/323155868357103616\">7-11 store\u003c/a> to find food to feed Ripert in San Jose. As for where to eat in the City, Bourdain said that he loves having a “crab with the crab fat“ at \u003ca href=\"https://plus.google.com/101314656388970105377/about?gl=us&hl=en\">Swan Oyster Depot\u003c/a> and Ripert responded that he wanted to go there with Tony for breakfast [which they apparently did do]. Bourdain also pointed out that the Bay Area has produce that is the envy of the East Coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the talk turned to \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/AliceWaters\">Alice Waters\u003c/a>, Bourdain showed restraint, a gentlemanly move given the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/03/08/alice-waters-on-chez-panisse-fire-video/\">recent fire at Chez Panisse\u003c/a>. Audience, he’s sure they would get along swimmingly if they met at a party... but do remember, he warned, that Waters chose shark fin soup as her last meal on a panel he did with her and Duff Goldman--a fact that had the audience guffawing. He appeared to have publicly forgiven Waters, as well as other famous food celebs ranging from Rachael Ray to Emeril. Ray sent him a fruit basket, and “how can I not love” someone who made a joke that Mario Batali will loan you a scrunchie if you give him a blow job—-a jab Ray made at a roast for the ponytailed chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ripert got flack from Tony for letting Henry Kissinger, Dick Cheney, Donald Rumsfeld, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ItsTheSituation\">The Situation\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/snooki/\">Snooki\u003c/a> take their respective spots at the table at his award winning \u003ca href=\"http://le-bernardin.com/\">Le Bernardin\u003c/a> restaurant. “You gave The Situation and Snooki a kitchen tour, too?” he asked, and Ripert said, “Yes.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When pushed, Ripert said that tennis star John McEnroe is the one star he would not let dine at his restaurant. “He hurt your feelings!” Bourdain said, as Ripert sheepishly nodded under the bright interrogation lamp. Ripert later said that hipsters are allowed at his restaurant and that guests can take photos of the food at Le Bernardin as long as they don’t use a flash. Bourdain posited that hipsters are “people who are younger than us” and that Ripert felt that the founders of Le Bernardin, Gilbert and Maguy le Coze were hipsters of an earlier era. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ripert said that he is anti-corkage fee yet also anti-bring-your own wine. He pointed out that Le Bernardin is after all a business (a fair point for any restaurant), and Bourdain said that he thought Le Bernardin had the best sommelier. Ripert waffled a bit on the bring-your-own-wine bit when he conceded that he \u003cem>would\u003c/em> be open to guests bringing a great bottle of wine in, but only if they please share a glass with him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paula Deen is the one culinary star Bourdain will not forgive, because he is “genuinely appalled by her acts on the planet” which include hyping Southern cooking “into something it’s not.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bourdain gave major props to \u003ca href=\"http://missionchinesefood.com/\">Mission Chinese Food\u003c/a> and said that it is rare to see a San Francisco restaurant find such big and immediate success in New York. “I am sure they will take over the world,” he said. Bourdain was aware that Mission Chinese Food plans to next open in Paris, and giggled over the fact that Ripert had to run to the bathroom during his first visit to Mission Chinese, because “he couldn’t handle” how spicy the food was. Clearly Bourdain, given his far flung travels and history of eating dishes like calves brain and pig anus on air makes him the more adventurous eater. Yet Ripert aptly pointed out that Bourdain has not been a kitchen chef in fifteen years. Touché, Monsieur.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Guest-greets-Bourdain800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Guest-greets-Bourdain800-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"A guest greets Bourdain. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-59959\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Bourdain-signs-arm800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Bourdain-signs-arm800-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Bourdain signs an arm. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-59957\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One exclusive that Bourdain and Ripert shared with us at the La Cocina meet and greet: they filmed in the mountains of Peru together for Bourdain’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.cnn.com/video/shows/anthony-bourdain-parts-unknown#?SR=SearchCNN_Parts_Unknown\">\u003cem>Parts Unknown\u003c/em>\u003c/a> show on CNN. The series debuted Sunday and viewers can see the friendly pair doing a variety of activities that sound potentially interesting. “We were looking for cacao beans and cooked chicken together, which is a departure for the show,” said Bourdain. “Eric kept telling me, ‘one more mountain’ while I was stumbling around” on their way to find cacao. Bourdain rolled his eyes and laughed as he continued with, “He’s from the Pyrenees, where there’s yodeling and he’s pretty used to all those hills.” Ripert laughed and nodded at this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Caleb800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Caleb800-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Joe Barber with La Cocina’s Caleb Zigas. Photo: Mary Ladd\" alt=\"Joe Barber with La Cocina’s Caleb Zigas. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-59958\">\u003c/a>They showed a comfort and ease with each other that continued through the meet and greet, where they signed everything from books to body parts while digging into a big plate of La Cocina treats. La Cocina Executive Director Caleb Zigas said that the after party event came about when Bourdain’s production company, \u003ca href=\"http://zeropointzero.com/\">Zero Point Zero\u003c/a> contacted him. Proceeds from the meet and greet went to La Cocina and Zigas said the party provided an avenue for the La Cocina businesses who have brick and mortar locations. The two hundred or so guests in the green room gawked and took photos of Bourdain and Ripert, and a line snaked around the room for the chance to get autographs.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/inticing_creations_cake500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/inticing_creations_cake500-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Inticing Creations cake at Good vs. Evil after party. Photo: Mary Ladd\" alt=\"Inticing Creations cake at Good vs. Evil after party. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59960\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/anda_Piroshki500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/anda_Piroshki500-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Anda Piroshki treats at Good vs. Evil after party. Photo: Mary Ladd\" alt=\"Anda Piroshki treats at Good vs. Evil after party. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59954\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Onigilly_Bourdain500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Onigilly_Bourdain500-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Onigilly treats at Good vs. Evil after party. Photo: Mary Ladd\" alt=\"Onigilly treats at Good vs. Evil after party. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59961\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inticing Creations baker Kelly Zubal crafted a stunning cake in the shape of a duck press for Bourdain and Ripert. She said that it took her three hours to make and she even brought an edible pen with the hopes of getting a signature on her sweet treat. Zubal confirmed with Bay Area Bites over email that, \"Bourdain couldn't believe I made a duck press and wrote 'best cake ever' on it. It now has a place on my cake display area at my cake studio.\" Sounds like Bourdain was acting more good than evil to us. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "An exclusive report on Anthony Bourdain and Eric Ripert's live show, Good vs. Evil, at the Orpheum Theatre. The two chef-lebrities are also best friends, and used the show to poke fun at each other and discuss organic food, Alice Waters, Paula Deen + more.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59956\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BourdainRipert500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BourdainRipert500.jpg\" alt=\"Anthony Bourdain and Eric Ripert photo courtesy of Good vs. Evil\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59956\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anthony Bourdain and Eric Ripert.\u003cbr> Photo courtesy of Good vs. Evil\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/13/qa-anthony-bourdain-says-he%E2%80%99s-in-a-zen-like-state/\">Anthony Bourdain\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.aveceric.com/eric-ripert/\">Eric Ripert\u003c/a> took to a San Francisco stage on Friday night, where they made fun of each other and riffed on everything from hipsters to Mission Chinese Food to Paula Deen—some familiar territory with new culinary nuggets tossed in. We spotted the \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/thedapperdiner\">Dapper Diner\u003c/a> and Chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.piperade.com/index.php/about\">Gerard Hirigoyen\u003c/a> in attendance, and the Orpheum Theatre appeared to be sold out. La Cocina’s Caleb Zigas was at the backstage VIP after-party, where bites and a cake in the form of a duck press were on offer from \u003ca href=\"http://andapiroshki.com/\">AйDa Piroshki\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://onigilly.com/\">Onigilly\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://huaracheloco.com/\">El Huarache Loco\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.inticingcreations.com/hello/\">Inticing Creations\u003c/a>. Zigas memorably chatted with Bourdain at Dolores Park for his San Francisco episode of \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2012/01/05/bourdain_post.php\">The Layover\u003c/a>\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The two rather famous best friends wore similar dark suits and their set looked like the boxing matches from the 1940s and 1950s, with one ominous lamp shining over an uncomfortable chair against a dark backdrop. It was a night that was billed as \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.goodvseviltour.com/\">Good vs. Evil\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, and started out with Bourdain interrogating Ripert. One of the nicest surprises was how well Ripert was able to dish back to his pal Tony with that rather sexy French accent of his.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59953\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Orpheum500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Orpheum500.jpg\" alt=\"Orpheum Theatre. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59953\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Orpheum Theatre. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003cbr>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bourdain is a \u003ca href=\"http://jalapeno.typepad.com/my_weblog/2006/06/nasty_bits_offa.html\">personal friend\u003c/a> and appeared to take the lead in the two-hour show. He may have had a major hand in writing much of the script—especially telling was the fact that he brought up the question of who would do the actual physical labor if more of our society had access to organic products. This is a refrain we’ve heard before, even when we were filming for his \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em> show over dinner at Incanto restaurant in 2009. Bourdain is up front that he is a “total hypocrite” and his own daughter, who he referred to as a “little angel” gets organic food all the time. Bourdain’s wife, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/OttaviaBourdain\">Ottavia\u003c/a>, on the other hand, eats only “mountains of protein and no carbs at all,” because she is a trained fighter. Ottavia is a columnist for \u003ca href=\"http://www.vice.com/read/ottavia-bourdain-my-jiu-jitsu-addiction\">Vice\u003c/a> magazine and accepted an assignment to eat vegetarian for a week to see if and how it would affect her training ability. Bourdain joined her for two nights of no-meat and came away unimpressed by restaurants that seemed stuck in a glut of serving dishes that had vegetables like broccoli and carrots with tamari, garlic and ginger--a flavor combo that he ranked as dated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bourdain and Ripert were in town for a short amount of time before heading to San Jose for a Saturday night show. Later tweets showed that \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Bourdain\">Tony\u003c/a> planned on hitting up a \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Bourdain/status/323155868357103616\">7-11 store\u003c/a> to find food to feed Ripert in San Jose. As for where to eat in the City, Bourdain said that he loves having a “crab with the crab fat“ at \u003ca href=\"https://plus.google.com/101314656388970105377/about?gl=us&hl=en\">Swan Oyster Depot\u003c/a> and Ripert responded that he wanted to go there with Tony for breakfast [which they apparently did do]. Bourdain also pointed out that the Bay Area has produce that is the envy of the East Coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the talk turned to \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/AliceWaters\">Alice Waters\u003c/a>, Bourdain showed restraint, a gentlemanly move given the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/03/08/alice-waters-on-chez-panisse-fire-video/\">recent fire at Chez Panisse\u003c/a>. Audience, he’s sure they would get along swimmingly if they met at a party... but do remember, he warned, that Waters chose shark fin soup as her last meal on a panel he did with her and Duff Goldman--a fact that had the audience guffawing. He appeared to have publicly forgiven Waters, as well as other famous food celebs ranging from Rachael Ray to Emeril. Ray sent him a fruit basket, and “how can I not love” someone who made a joke that Mario Batali will loan you a scrunchie if you give him a blow job—-a jab Ray made at a roast for the ponytailed chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ripert got flack from Tony for letting Henry Kissinger, Dick Cheney, Donald Rumsfeld, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ItsTheSituation\">The Situation\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/snooki/\">Snooki\u003c/a> take their respective spots at the table at his award winning \u003ca href=\"http://le-bernardin.com/\">Le Bernardin\u003c/a> restaurant. “You gave The Situation and Snooki a kitchen tour, too?” he asked, and Ripert said, “Yes.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When pushed, Ripert said that tennis star John McEnroe is the one star he would not let dine at his restaurant. “He hurt your feelings!” Bourdain said, as Ripert sheepishly nodded under the bright interrogation lamp. Ripert later said that hipsters are allowed at his restaurant and that guests can take photos of the food at Le Bernardin as long as they don’t use a flash. Bourdain posited that hipsters are “people who are younger than us” and that Ripert felt that the founders of Le Bernardin, Gilbert and Maguy le Coze were hipsters of an earlier era. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ripert said that he is anti-corkage fee yet also anti-bring-your own wine. He pointed out that Le Bernardin is after all a business (a fair point for any restaurant), and Bourdain said that he thought Le Bernardin had the best sommelier. Ripert waffled a bit on the bring-your-own-wine bit when he conceded that he \u003cem>would\u003c/em> be open to guests bringing a great bottle of wine in, but only if they please share a glass with him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paula Deen is the one culinary star Bourdain will not forgive, because he is “genuinely appalled by her acts on the planet” which include hyping Southern cooking “into something it’s not.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bourdain gave major props to \u003ca href=\"http://missionchinesefood.com/\">Mission Chinese Food\u003c/a> and said that it is rare to see a San Francisco restaurant find such big and immediate success in New York. “I am sure they will take over the world,” he said. Bourdain was aware that Mission Chinese Food plans to next open in Paris, and giggled over the fact that Ripert had to run to the bathroom during his first visit to Mission Chinese, because “he couldn’t handle” how spicy the food was. Clearly Bourdain, given his far flung travels and history of eating dishes like calves brain and pig anus on air makes him the more adventurous eater. Yet Ripert aptly pointed out that Bourdain has not been a kitchen chef in fifteen years. Touché, Monsieur.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Guest-greets-Bourdain800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Guest-greets-Bourdain800-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"A guest greets Bourdain. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-59959\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Bourdain-signs-arm800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Bourdain-signs-arm800-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Bourdain signs an arm. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-59957\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One exclusive that Bourdain and Ripert shared with us at the La Cocina meet and greet: they filmed in the mountains of Peru together for Bourdain’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.cnn.com/video/shows/anthony-bourdain-parts-unknown#?SR=SearchCNN_Parts_Unknown\">\u003cem>Parts Unknown\u003c/em>\u003c/a> show on CNN. The series debuted Sunday and viewers can see the friendly pair doing a variety of activities that sound potentially interesting. “We were looking for cacao beans and cooked chicken together, which is a departure for the show,” said Bourdain. “Eric kept telling me, ‘one more mountain’ while I was stumbling around” on their way to find cacao. Bourdain rolled his eyes and laughed as he continued with, “He’s from the Pyrenees, where there’s yodeling and he’s pretty used to all those hills.” Ripert laughed and nodded at this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Caleb800.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Caleb800-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Joe Barber with La Cocina’s Caleb Zigas. Photo: Mary Ladd\" alt=\"Joe Barber with La Cocina’s Caleb Zigas. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-59958\">\u003c/a>They showed a comfort and ease with each other that continued through the meet and greet, where they signed everything from books to body parts while digging into a big plate of La Cocina treats. La Cocina Executive Director Caleb Zigas said that the after party event came about when Bourdain’s production company, \u003ca href=\"http://zeropointzero.com/\">Zero Point Zero\u003c/a> contacted him. Proceeds from the meet and greet went to La Cocina and Zigas said the party provided an avenue for the La Cocina businesses who have brick and mortar locations. The two hundred or so guests in the green room gawked and took photos of Bourdain and Ripert, and a line snaked around the room for the chance to get autographs.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/inticing_creations_cake500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/inticing_creations_cake500-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Inticing Creations cake at Good vs. Evil after party. Photo: Mary Ladd\" alt=\"Inticing Creations cake at Good vs. Evil after party. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59960\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/anda_Piroshki500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/anda_Piroshki500-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Anda Piroshki treats at Good vs. Evil after party. Photo: Mary Ladd\" alt=\"Anda Piroshki treats at Good vs. Evil after party. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59954\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Onigilly_Bourdain500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Onigilly_Bourdain500-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Onigilly treats at Good vs. Evil after party. Photo: Mary Ladd\" alt=\"Onigilly treats at Good vs. Evil after party. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59961\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inticing Creations baker Kelly Zubal crafted a stunning cake in the shape of a duck press for Bourdain and Ripert. She said that it took her three hours to make and she even brought an edible pen with the hopes of getting a signature on her sweet treat. Zubal confirmed with Bay Area Bites over email that, \"Bourdain couldn't believe I made a duck press and wrote 'best cake ever' on it. It now has a place on my cake display area at my cake studio.\" Sounds like Bourdain was acting more good than evil to us. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "IACP in San Francisco: Conference Highlights and Awards",
"title": "IACP in San Francisco: Conference Highlights and Awards",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/ThomasKeller640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/ThomasKeller640-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Thomas Keller at IACP Awards in San Francisco.\" alt=\"Thomas Keller at IACP Awards in San Francisco. Photo: Gamma Nine via IACP\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59846\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/AliceWaters_MYan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/AliceWaters_MYan-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Alice Waters and Martin Yan at IACP Awards in San Francisco.\" alt=\"Alice Waters and Martin Yan at IACP Awards in San Francisco. Photo: Gamma Nine via IACP\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59835\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/joanneweir640-use.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/joanneweir640-use-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Joanne Weir at IACP Awards in San Francisco.\" alt=\"Joanne Weir at IACP Awards in San Francisco. Photo: Gamma Nine via IACP\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59842\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Phan_Angkana500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Phan_Angkana500-190x190.jpg\" title=\"IACP award winner Chef Charles Phan with his wife Angkana Kurutach.\" alt=\"IACP award winner Chef Charles Phan with his wife Angkana Kurutach. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59844\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/IrvinLinwins500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/IrvinLinwins500-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Irvin Lin with his IACP award.\" alt=\"Irvin Lin with his IACP award. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59839\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Joel_riddell_ChefJohn560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Joel_riddell_ChefJohn560-190x190.jpg\" title=\"IACP Award winner Joel Riddell with Chef John Mitzewich.\" alt=\"IACP Award winner Joel Riddell with Chef John Mitzewich. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59843\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We wish this one was televised, too: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/03/08/alice-waters-on-chez-panisse-fire-video/\">Alice Waters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/01/27/martin-yan-m-y-china-vietnam-travels-and-chinese-new-year/\">Martin Yan\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.joanneweir.com/index.php\">Joanne Weir\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://virginiawillis.com/\">Virginia Willis\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.newmansownorganics.com/nells_corner_bio.html\">Nell Newman\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Rick_Bayless\">Rick Bayless\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Chef_Keller\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/charles-phan/\">Charles Phan\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.talk910.com/pages/diningaround.html\">Joel Riddell\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatthelove.com/\">Irvin Lin\u003c/a> were among the folks who took the stage for Tuesday night’s 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.iacp.com/\">International Association of Culinary Professionals\u003c/a> (IACP) awards ceremony in San Francisco. \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodcommunityculture.org/\">Oakland Food Connection\u003c/a> and food incubator \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a> were also honored. IACP's professional awards are widely viewed in the food world as something of a gold standard for cookbooks, food writing, digital media and culinary tours. The awards marked the closing night of the organization’s 35th annual conference, which went with a “\u003ca href=\"http://www.iacp.com/attend/more/2013_conference_theme\">Dirt to Digital\u003c/a>” theme this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Check out the full \u003ca href=\"http://www.iacp.com/documents/IACP_AwardsFinalists_2013.pdf\">list of award finalists\u003c/a> and the grand \u003ca href=\"https://www.iacp.com/documents/IACP35_AwardWinners_2013_FINAL.pdf\">list of winners\u003c/a>. While the awards ceremony stretched out over a few hours and was oddly lacking \u003cem>any\u003c/em> form of culinary nourishment (there were definite rumblings after the ceremony about that), it offered quirks, songs and even a few dick jokes courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.libbiesummers.com/\">Libbie Summers\u003c/a>, whose \u003ca href=\"http://www.saltedandstyled.com/\">Salted and Styled\u003c/a> blog won for Best Culinary Blog. On the other end of the spectrum, the evening kicked off with all guests looking up and saying “thank you” as a dedication to publisher \u003ca href=\"http://www.workman.com/blog/2013/04/peter-workman-10191938-472013/\">Peter Workman\u003c/a>, who passed away just this week. It was also emotional for Lifetime Achievement Award winner \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/AliceWaters\">Alice Waters\u003c/a>, who gratefully accepted her prize and joked in her speech that while she cannot farm, “I am a picker,” which got the audience laughing--wise words from the founder of \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://edibleschoolyard.org/\">Edible Schoolyard\u003c/a>. Waters also professed her admiration for cooking teachers because: “I cannot teach.” She immediately went on to acknowledge IACP attendee and stalwart \u003ca href=\"http://www.cookingisfun.ie/pages/\">Darina Allen\u003c/a>, whose Ballymaloe cooking school she visits every year (for her birthday).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/04/an-interview-with-charles-phan-author-of-vietnamese-home-cooking/\">Charles Phan\u003c/a> won in the Chefs and Restaurants cookbook category for his “Vietnamese Home Cooking” (co-authored with \u003ca href=\"http://www.tastingtable.com/press_release/internal/7740/Jessica_Battilana_Senior_Editor.htm\">Tasting Table\u003c/a> Senior Editor Jessica Battilana), he confessed that he did not have a speech but had enjoyed some bourbon to presumably get warmed up. Phan thanked Battilana, his agent and wife, Angkana. “My wife made sure I turned the book manuscript in, so I wouldn’t have to return the book advance money to Ten Speed Press.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Jerusalem-A-Cookbook-Yotam-Ottolenghi/dp/1607743949\">Jerusalem: A Cookbook\u003c/a>” by Yotam Ottolenghi, Sami Tamimi, received the award for Cookbook of the Year, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodpolitics.com/about/\">Marion Nestle\u003c/a> garnered a prize in the Food Matters category for her weighty tome, “Why Calories Count: From Science to Politics.” The deeply satisfying sugar-rush images in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Bouchon-Bakery-Thomas-Keller/dp/1579654355/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1365787021&sr=1-1&keywords=Bouchon+Bakery\">Bouchon Bakery\u003c/a> cookbook garnered an award for Food Photography and Styling, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.talk910.com/pages/diningaround.html\">Dining Around with Joel Riddell\u003c/a> radio show won in the Long Format Audio category. The team at \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/17/publish-like-a-local-nion-mcevoy-and-chronicle-books/\">Chronicle Books\u003c/a> may still be celebrating given their author Diane Morgan won for her book, \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Roots-Definitive-Compendium-more-Recipes/dp/0811878376/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1365786976&sr=1-1&keywords=Roots%3A+The+Definitive+Compendium+with+more+than+225+Recipes.\">Roots: The Definitive Compendium with more than 225 Recipes.\u003c/a>\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Culinary Tour Operator of the Year went to \u003ca href=\"http://www.copitarestaurant.com/\">Copita\u003c/a> chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.joanneweir.com/index.php\">Joanne Weir\u003c/a>, who shared that as a child, she told her father that she wanted to be a bus driver, so that she could drive a bus on every road in the world. Her confession seemed to scare him a little. Weir dedicated her prize to him because he passed away last year. Food blogger Irvin Lin won the Best in Show prize for his photography, and he asked the IACP crowd to “hire me, I'm available,\" a sentiment which was echoed by the next winner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The conference itself is that rare chance to possibly figure out how to eke out a living doing things in the culinary field--it can be exciting but also daunting in the number of possibilities it presents. There were various declarations for members to support each other and that each one \"stands on the shoulders\" of those who have come before and after them. That may sound hokey and like general conference speak yet three people we spoke with found these pronouncements to be inspiring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many attendees shared with Bay Area Bites that the chance of learning from so many different people doing interesting things is one of the main draws of shelling out \u003ca href=\"http://www.iacp.com/attend/more/program_registration_2\">$750 to $950\u003c/a> to register for the full conference—that’s on top of the $280 it costs to initially join IACP. Off the record, we were told that IACP is in the midst of something of a revamp and that costs and programming issues have been noted if not yet changed. These folks said that they attend as much for the learning sessions on, say, the meaning of restaurant reviews in the era of Yelp to getting a lowdown on sourdough or video content strategy. The coffee breaks are also highly valued and networking even happens in the bathrooms. Yes, really. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kale salad and eating local may remain a big trend, but IACP attendees see much, much more at play in the food world. We asked some notable thought leaders to answer a few questions in person: \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>What is this conference about for you?\u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>The theme of the conference is Dirt to Digital; what does it mean to you?\u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>How does the theme translate to the food industry?\u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>What did you learn about in the workshops and what are the clear trends that emerged from the conference?\u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Here are insights from Corby Kummer, Danielle Gould, Sandor Katz, Joanne Weir and Sarah Copeland. Their responses have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/CorbyKummer500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/CorbyKummer500-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Corby Kummer . Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-59838\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/corby-kummer/\">Corby Kummer\u003c/a> is a senior editor at The Atlantic magazine. Known as \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/CKummer\">“the dean of food writing,”\u003c/a> Kummer’s 1990 Atlantic series about coffee is a benchmark for excellence in long-form food writing. He is the author of “The Joy of Coffee,” based on his Atlantic series, and the recently published “The Pleasures of Slow Food.” Kummer is the recipient of three James Beard Journalism Awards, including the MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kummer:\u003c/strong> This conference is about seeing people who are following food issues on the level of the home cook. It’s about how the things that we in the media are interested in and write about play out in real life and the home of a consumer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>IACP has always been the most connected to the real world of any group because it’s people making their living as culinary professionals. They are in touch with sustainability, farming and local issues. I thought the conference was brilliantly named \"Dirt to Digital\" because online is where all of the IACP members need to be marketing themselves and their products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With social media, no one yet knows how to master it but everyone’s trying to learn. IACP has always been at the forefront of practical and real world applications. That’s a unique role because being so smartly focused attracts the most interesting, lively and active people in the food world. And I’ll take any opportunity to connect with them.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/danielle-gould.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/danielle-gould-190x190.jpeg\" alt=\"Danielle Gould\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignright size-thumbnail wp-image-59886\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/dhgisme\">Danielle Gould\u003c/a> is the Founder and CEO of \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodtechconnect.com/\">Food+Tech Connect\u003c/a>, a media company and network for innovators transforming the business of food. Through news and analysis, events, and custom research, Gould helps companies of all sizes drive innovation and understand how information and technology are changing the way food is produced, distributed, and consumed. She is also a founding member of the Culinary Institute of America’s Sustainable Business Leadership Council and is a regular contributor to Forbes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Gould:\u003c/strong> This is my first time at IACP and they invited me to talk about food and tech trends and hackathons as a model for food innovation. Our panel touched on the opportunity and the medium, as well as how to demystify technology. It is also about helping people understand the knowledge and the challenges that are out there. We’re trying to empower people to put that knowledge out there where they’re collaborating with designers and developers to solve that problem. I travel the whole country and spread the gospel and learn about how people are thinking. It’s about using technology to help solve problems, spread messages and improve business models and just accelerate innovation that’s happening on a small scale. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past, a book would take you two years and a product would take 18 months. For a food producer or chef, that means that it takes awhile to market things. Technology offers opportunities: now you can self-publish that cookbook in close to real time, and get feedback on your product. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Dirt to Digital\" is at the heart of what food technology is. You’re looking across the supply chain, and food is interconnected. It is a system, and that goes to the consumer. A lot of times when people think of digital, they think of consumers. Emerging trends and what role technology is for each trend is a part of that. Technology is very broad and means so much to so many different people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I just love learning how people respond to technology and food and how they use it. The other major takeaway was a lot of the panels weren't very popular or not as sexy but were about funding. Everyone’s having trouble making money in the food space. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BruceAidellsSandor560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BruceAidellsSandor560-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Karen MacKenzie, Bruce Aidells and Sandor Katz at IACP Awards. Photo: Mary Ladd\" alt=\"Karen MacKenzie, Bruce Aidells and Sandor Katz at IACP Awards. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-59837\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.wildfermentation.com/who-is-sandorkraut/\">Sandor Ellix Katz\u003c/a>, “one of the unlikely rock stars of the American food scene” according to The New York Times, is a self-taught fermentation experimentalist. His books “The Art of Fermentation” and “Wild Fermentation,” and the fermentation workshops he has taught across North America and beyond, have helped to catalyze a broad revival of the fermentation arts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Katz:\u003c/strong> I’ve never been to IACP before. I don’t think of myself as a culinary professional. The work that I do is demystifying and sharing skills with people who aren’t necessarily culinary professionals. The highlight for me has been to meet people whose books are influential. [Katz was sitting with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/12/10/everything-you-need-to-know-about-bruce-aidells/\">Bruce Aidells\u003c/a> when we caught up with him and Aidells shared the table with us while we caught up.]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Aidells:\u003c/strong> What’s good sauerkraut without good sausages?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Katz:\u003c/strong> A kraut -- quesadilla is my fast food, and I make it with Pepper Jack. That’s one of my standard meals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The theme of the conference is significant. What does \"Dirt to Digital\" mean? I was just on this panel that was high tech versus low tech yet I don’t necessarily see things that way. I’m interested in understanding these processes in their simplicity. So that doesn’t mean you can’t use technology to have more control over the processes. It’s very empowering to see how the underlying principles don't need equipment. If you get involved in sausage making, you can use a funnel for the casing. You can also just be there with you hands, pushing the meat through to the casing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For cheese, you can buy nice molds, perhaps. There are elegant crocks to make things but you can also do it with a jar that’s already in your pantry. I appreciate the conference and there’s much information spreading by digital means but it may be telling people how to use their hands. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/JoanneWeir500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/JoanneWeir500-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Joanne Weir at IACP Awards. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignright size-thumbnail wp-image-59841\">\u003c/a>Joanne Weir is a James Beard award-winning cookbook author, cooking teacher, host and executive producer for the award-winning television series Joanne Weir’s Cooking Confidence. She is the chef-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/04/29/copita-tequileria-y-comida-joanne-weir-and-larry-mindel%E2%80%99s-mexico-in-sausalito/\">Copita\u003c/a>, a tequileria and restaurant in Sausalito. The author of 17 cookbooks, including the newly released “Cooking Confidence,” Joanne is the Culinary Editor at Large at Fine Cooking! magazine. She travels and teaches extensively around the world as well as in her studio kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Weir:\u003c/strong> This conference was so interesting because I’ve approached it differently as a restaurateur this year. I usually approach it as “I write for magazines” or my cookbooks or how to fill your cooking classes. This time I’m taking in things that are really different. I want to sit in on the reviewing and Yelping session. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I still love to see all the people I know when I come to IACP. And I love that it’s in SF and I get to share Copita--they’re going over by ferry. I did a tour on Saturday and people loved it. I’ve shared in a different way and am still excited about my restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For me with \"Dirt to Digital,\" I don’t know if I put the two together. Yet every single thing I do is fresh. I have an organic farm -- and my next series is called \"Fresh\" for TV. I am always interested in digital media. The market has changed and the whole landscape is changing. My hope is it that it goes back to dirt and less digital. Is that so 'Chez Panisse' of me? (laughs) I do digital but food is still my passion. Perhaps next year the IACP theme should be \"Back to Passion.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>IACP is pretty current on things. What they’ve done this year is now bloggers have been integrated. I left feeling in past years that I had to do so much on my own blog. I’ve always done food that is following my passion and on what brings about major possibilities for me. I attended a book session that talked about book advance spending and how book tours are back and rely on the digital medium.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My trend is always Mexican, and that comes with owning Copita. I saw the trendologist \u003ca href=\"http://www.ccdinnovation.com/about/staff/nielsen.php\">Kara Nielsen\u003c/a> here and she said, \"You couldn’t be in a more trendy thing, with Mexican food and tequila.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I do modern Mexican food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We used to think of Italian red tablecloths and Chianti -- yet now Italian food has come a long way. One of the trends here is taking cuisines and elevating and educating around the cuisine. Thomas Keller was talking about that and I have seen that in this conference. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/SarahCopeland500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/SarahCopeland500-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Sarah Copeland at IACP Awards. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-59845\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://edibleliving.com/\">Sarah Copeland\u003c/a> is the Food Director at \u003ca href=\"http://www.realsimple.com/\">Real Simple\u003c/a> and author of “\u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/the-newlywed-cookbook.html\">The Newlywed Cookbook\u003c/a>: Fresh Ideas and Modern Recipes for Cooking With and For Each Other.” Her book, “Feast” will be published in December this year and she has authored numerous articles and recipes for Real Simple, Saveur, Food & Wine, Health, Martha Stewart Living, Better Homes & Gardens and Food Network Magazine. She has appeared as a guest on The Martha Stewart Show, Good Morning America and ABC News Now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Copeland:\u003c/strong> A lot of the conference is about relationships. I see faces from every different facet of my career and have been reconnecting and catching up on what people are doing that is new and exciting. There’s a chance to celebrate successes while hopefully helping a few people too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On \"Dirt to Digital,\" one of the most challenging things of this industry from my perspective is that I started in print. That part has changed so dramatically in ten years or even five years. For most food people who are in love with food, it is very tactile how we communicate yet that is changing so much. The dirt part communicates place, smell, and touch, which are all the good things. It includes the agriculture, and the farmer. There are so many layers and it is complex with dirt. That’s how food is to me: we touch humanity and civilization, nutrition and wellness. In the digital sphere, how do you capture that? I think we are all figuring that out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did a panel on recipes and copyright for the conference. There were folks from Pillsbury there who were trying to figure out their contest. We also had teachers, bakery owners and bloggers. As Food Director at Real Simple, I have to be savvy and think about those aspects. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On almost every panel I ask, 'What’s the best panel?' This year, everyone is focusing on video. I worked at the Food Network -- and yet this industry has been print for so long. With \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/user/TheOfficialHungry\">Hungry\u003c/a> and YouTube and different avenues, it’s just so video-focused. The trailer for my first book is a minute and a half but my next one will probably be half that, to seventy-five seconds. My new book 'Feast' from Chronicle Books is coming out in December and I’ve learned a few things that I’ll do differently. I am coming away from the conference with the feeling that there is room for every voice and every talent. If you are generous, they will help you, too.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/ThomasKeller640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/ThomasKeller640-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Thomas Keller at IACP Awards in San Francisco.\" alt=\"Thomas Keller at IACP Awards in San Francisco. Photo: Gamma Nine via IACP\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59846\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/AliceWaters_MYan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/AliceWaters_MYan-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Alice Waters and Martin Yan at IACP Awards in San Francisco.\" alt=\"Alice Waters and Martin Yan at IACP Awards in San Francisco. Photo: Gamma Nine via IACP\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59835\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/joanneweir640-use.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/joanneweir640-use-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Joanne Weir at IACP Awards in San Francisco.\" alt=\"Joanne Weir at IACP Awards in San Francisco. Photo: Gamma Nine via IACP\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59842\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Phan_Angkana500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Phan_Angkana500-190x190.jpg\" title=\"IACP award winner Chef Charles Phan with his wife Angkana Kurutach.\" alt=\"IACP award winner Chef Charles Phan with his wife Angkana Kurutach. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59844\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/IrvinLinwins500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/IrvinLinwins500-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Irvin Lin with his IACP award.\" alt=\"Irvin Lin with his IACP award. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59839\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Joel_riddell_ChefJohn560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Joel_riddell_ChefJohn560-190x190.jpg\" title=\"IACP Award winner Joel Riddell with Chef John Mitzewich.\" alt=\"IACP Award winner Joel Riddell with Chef John Mitzewich. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59843\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We wish this one was televised, too: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/03/08/alice-waters-on-chez-panisse-fire-video/\">Alice Waters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/01/27/martin-yan-m-y-china-vietnam-travels-and-chinese-new-year/\">Martin Yan\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.joanneweir.com/index.php\">Joanne Weir\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://virginiawillis.com/\">Virginia Willis\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.newmansownorganics.com/nells_corner_bio.html\">Nell Newman\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Rick_Bayless\">Rick Bayless\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Chef_Keller\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/charles-phan/\">Charles Phan\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.talk910.com/pages/diningaround.html\">Joel Riddell\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatthelove.com/\">Irvin Lin\u003c/a> were among the folks who took the stage for Tuesday night’s 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.iacp.com/\">International Association of Culinary Professionals\u003c/a> (IACP) awards ceremony in San Francisco. \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodcommunityculture.org/\">Oakland Food Connection\u003c/a> and food incubator \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a> were also honored. IACP's professional awards are widely viewed in the food world as something of a gold standard for cookbooks, food writing, digital media and culinary tours. The awards marked the closing night of the organization’s 35th annual conference, which went with a “\u003ca href=\"http://www.iacp.com/attend/more/2013_conference_theme\">Dirt to Digital\u003c/a>” theme this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Check out the full \u003ca href=\"http://www.iacp.com/documents/IACP_AwardsFinalists_2013.pdf\">list of award finalists\u003c/a> and the grand \u003ca href=\"https://www.iacp.com/documents/IACP35_AwardWinners_2013_FINAL.pdf\">list of winners\u003c/a>. While the awards ceremony stretched out over a few hours and was oddly lacking \u003cem>any\u003c/em> form of culinary nourishment (there were definite rumblings after the ceremony about that), it offered quirks, songs and even a few dick jokes courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.libbiesummers.com/\">Libbie Summers\u003c/a>, whose \u003ca href=\"http://www.saltedandstyled.com/\">Salted and Styled\u003c/a> blog won for Best Culinary Blog. On the other end of the spectrum, the evening kicked off with all guests looking up and saying “thank you” as a dedication to publisher \u003ca href=\"http://www.workman.com/blog/2013/04/peter-workman-10191938-472013/\">Peter Workman\u003c/a>, who passed away just this week. It was also emotional for Lifetime Achievement Award winner \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/AliceWaters\">Alice Waters\u003c/a>, who gratefully accepted her prize and joked in her speech that while she cannot farm, “I am a picker,” which got the audience laughing--wise words from the founder of \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://edibleschoolyard.org/\">Edible Schoolyard\u003c/a>. Waters also professed her admiration for cooking teachers because: “I cannot teach.” She immediately went on to acknowledge IACP attendee and stalwart \u003ca href=\"http://www.cookingisfun.ie/pages/\">Darina Allen\u003c/a>, whose Ballymaloe cooking school she visits every year (for her birthday).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/04/an-interview-with-charles-phan-author-of-vietnamese-home-cooking/\">Charles Phan\u003c/a> won in the Chefs and Restaurants cookbook category for his “Vietnamese Home Cooking” (co-authored with \u003ca href=\"http://www.tastingtable.com/press_release/internal/7740/Jessica_Battilana_Senior_Editor.htm\">Tasting Table\u003c/a> Senior Editor Jessica Battilana), he confessed that he did not have a speech but had enjoyed some bourbon to presumably get warmed up. Phan thanked Battilana, his agent and wife, Angkana. “My wife made sure I turned the book manuscript in, so I wouldn’t have to return the book advance money to Ten Speed Press.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Jerusalem-A-Cookbook-Yotam-Ottolenghi/dp/1607743949\">Jerusalem: A Cookbook\u003c/a>” by Yotam Ottolenghi, Sami Tamimi, received the award for Cookbook of the Year, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodpolitics.com/about/\">Marion Nestle\u003c/a> garnered a prize in the Food Matters category for her weighty tome, “Why Calories Count: From Science to Politics.” The deeply satisfying sugar-rush images in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Bouchon-Bakery-Thomas-Keller/dp/1579654355/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1365787021&sr=1-1&keywords=Bouchon+Bakery\">Bouchon Bakery\u003c/a> cookbook garnered an award for Food Photography and Styling, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.talk910.com/pages/diningaround.html\">Dining Around with Joel Riddell\u003c/a> radio show won in the Long Format Audio category. The team at \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/17/publish-like-a-local-nion-mcevoy-and-chronicle-books/\">Chronicle Books\u003c/a> may still be celebrating given their author Diane Morgan won for her book, \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Roots-Definitive-Compendium-more-Recipes/dp/0811878376/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1365786976&sr=1-1&keywords=Roots%3A+The+Definitive+Compendium+with+more+than+225+Recipes.\">Roots: The Definitive Compendium with more than 225 Recipes.\u003c/a>\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Culinary Tour Operator of the Year went to \u003ca href=\"http://www.copitarestaurant.com/\">Copita\u003c/a> chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.joanneweir.com/index.php\">Joanne Weir\u003c/a>, who shared that as a child, she told her father that she wanted to be a bus driver, so that she could drive a bus on every road in the world. Her confession seemed to scare him a little. Weir dedicated her prize to him because he passed away last year. Food blogger Irvin Lin won the Best in Show prize for his photography, and he asked the IACP crowd to “hire me, I'm available,\" a sentiment which was echoed by the next winner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The conference itself is that rare chance to possibly figure out how to eke out a living doing things in the culinary field--it can be exciting but also daunting in the number of possibilities it presents. There were various declarations for members to support each other and that each one \"stands on the shoulders\" of those who have come before and after them. That may sound hokey and like general conference speak yet three people we spoke with found these pronouncements to be inspiring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many attendees shared with Bay Area Bites that the chance of learning from so many different people doing interesting things is one of the main draws of shelling out \u003ca href=\"http://www.iacp.com/attend/more/program_registration_2\">$750 to $950\u003c/a> to register for the full conference—that’s on top of the $280 it costs to initially join IACP. Off the record, we were told that IACP is in the midst of something of a revamp and that costs and programming issues have been noted if not yet changed. These folks said that they attend as much for the learning sessions on, say, the meaning of restaurant reviews in the era of Yelp to getting a lowdown on sourdough or video content strategy. The coffee breaks are also highly valued and networking even happens in the bathrooms. Yes, really. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kale salad and eating local may remain a big trend, but IACP attendees see much, much more at play in the food world. We asked some notable thought leaders to answer a few questions in person: \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>What is this conference about for you?\u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>The theme of the conference is Dirt to Digital; what does it mean to you?\u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>How does the theme translate to the food industry?\u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>What did you learn about in the workshops and what are the clear trends that emerged from the conference?\u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Here are insights from Corby Kummer, Danielle Gould, Sandor Katz, Joanne Weir and Sarah Copeland. Their responses have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/CorbyKummer500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/CorbyKummer500-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Corby Kummer . Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-59838\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/corby-kummer/\">Corby Kummer\u003c/a> is a senior editor at The Atlantic magazine. Known as \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/CKummer\">“the dean of food writing,”\u003c/a> Kummer’s 1990 Atlantic series about coffee is a benchmark for excellence in long-form food writing. He is the author of “The Joy of Coffee,” based on his Atlantic series, and the recently published “The Pleasures of Slow Food.” Kummer is the recipient of three James Beard Journalism Awards, including the MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kummer:\u003c/strong> This conference is about seeing people who are following food issues on the level of the home cook. It’s about how the things that we in the media are interested in and write about play out in real life and the home of a consumer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>IACP has always been the most connected to the real world of any group because it’s people making their living as culinary professionals. They are in touch with sustainability, farming and local issues. I thought the conference was brilliantly named \"Dirt to Digital\" because online is where all of the IACP members need to be marketing themselves and their products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With social media, no one yet knows how to master it but everyone’s trying to learn. IACP has always been at the forefront of practical and real world applications. That’s a unique role because being so smartly focused attracts the most interesting, lively and active people in the food world. And I’ll take any opportunity to connect with them.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/danielle-gould.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/danielle-gould-190x190.jpeg\" alt=\"Danielle Gould\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignright size-thumbnail wp-image-59886\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/dhgisme\">Danielle Gould\u003c/a> is the Founder and CEO of \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodtechconnect.com/\">Food+Tech Connect\u003c/a>, a media company and network for innovators transforming the business of food. Through news and analysis, events, and custom research, Gould helps companies of all sizes drive innovation and understand how information and technology are changing the way food is produced, distributed, and consumed. She is also a founding member of the Culinary Institute of America’s Sustainable Business Leadership Council and is a regular contributor to Forbes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Gould:\u003c/strong> This is my first time at IACP and they invited me to talk about food and tech trends and hackathons as a model for food innovation. Our panel touched on the opportunity and the medium, as well as how to demystify technology. It is also about helping people understand the knowledge and the challenges that are out there. We’re trying to empower people to put that knowledge out there where they’re collaborating with designers and developers to solve that problem. I travel the whole country and spread the gospel and learn about how people are thinking. It’s about using technology to help solve problems, spread messages and improve business models and just accelerate innovation that’s happening on a small scale. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past, a book would take you two years and a product would take 18 months. For a food producer or chef, that means that it takes awhile to market things. Technology offers opportunities: now you can self-publish that cookbook in close to real time, and get feedback on your product. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Dirt to Digital\" is at the heart of what food technology is. You’re looking across the supply chain, and food is interconnected. It is a system, and that goes to the consumer. A lot of times when people think of digital, they think of consumers. Emerging trends and what role technology is for each trend is a part of that. Technology is very broad and means so much to so many different people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I just love learning how people respond to technology and food and how they use it. The other major takeaway was a lot of the panels weren't very popular or not as sexy but were about funding. Everyone’s having trouble making money in the food space. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BruceAidellsSandor560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BruceAidellsSandor560-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Karen MacKenzie, Bruce Aidells and Sandor Katz at IACP Awards. Photo: Mary Ladd\" alt=\"Karen MacKenzie, Bruce Aidells and Sandor Katz at IACP Awards. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-59837\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.wildfermentation.com/who-is-sandorkraut/\">Sandor Ellix Katz\u003c/a>, “one of the unlikely rock stars of the American food scene” according to The New York Times, is a self-taught fermentation experimentalist. His books “The Art of Fermentation” and “Wild Fermentation,” and the fermentation workshops he has taught across North America and beyond, have helped to catalyze a broad revival of the fermentation arts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Katz:\u003c/strong> I’ve never been to IACP before. I don’t think of myself as a culinary professional. The work that I do is demystifying and sharing skills with people who aren’t necessarily culinary professionals. The highlight for me has been to meet people whose books are influential. [Katz was sitting with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/12/10/everything-you-need-to-know-about-bruce-aidells/\">Bruce Aidells\u003c/a> when we caught up with him and Aidells shared the table with us while we caught up.]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Aidells:\u003c/strong> What’s good sauerkraut without good sausages?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Katz:\u003c/strong> A kraut -- quesadilla is my fast food, and I make it with Pepper Jack. That’s one of my standard meals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The theme of the conference is significant. What does \"Dirt to Digital\" mean? I was just on this panel that was high tech versus low tech yet I don’t necessarily see things that way. I’m interested in understanding these processes in their simplicity. So that doesn’t mean you can’t use technology to have more control over the processes. It’s very empowering to see how the underlying principles don't need equipment. If you get involved in sausage making, you can use a funnel for the casing. You can also just be there with you hands, pushing the meat through to the casing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For cheese, you can buy nice molds, perhaps. There are elegant crocks to make things but you can also do it with a jar that’s already in your pantry. I appreciate the conference and there’s much information spreading by digital means but it may be telling people how to use their hands. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/JoanneWeir500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/JoanneWeir500-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Joanne Weir at IACP Awards. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignright size-thumbnail wp-image-59841\">\u003c/a>Joanne Weir is a James Beard award-winning cookbook author, cooking teacher, host and executive producer for the award-winning television series Joanne Weir’s Cooking Confidence. She is the chef-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/04/29/copita-tequileria-y-comida-joanne-weir-and-larry-mindel%E2%80%99s-mexico-in-sausalito/\">Copita\u003c/a>, a tequileria and restaurant in Sausalito. The author of 17 cookbooks, including the newly released “Cooking Confidence,” Joanne is the Culinary Editor at Large at Fine Cooking! magazine. She travels and teaches extensively around the world as well as in her studio kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Weir:\u003c/strong> This conference was so interesting because I’ve approached it differently as a restaurateur this year. I usually approach it as “I write for magazines” or my cookbooks or how to fill your cooking classes. This time I’m taking in things that are really different. I want to sit in on the reviewing and Yelping session. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I still love to see all the people I know when I come to IACP. And I love that it’s in SF and I get to share Copita--they’re going over by ferry. I did a tour on Saturday and people loved it. I’ve shared in a different way and am still excited about my restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For me with \"Dirt to Digital,\" I don’t know if I put the two together. Yet every single thing I do is fresh. I have an organic farm -- and my next series is called \"Fresh\" for TV. I am always interested in digital media. The market has changed and the whole landscape is changing. My hope is it that it goes back to dirt and less digital. Is that so 'Chez Panisse' of me? (laughs) I do digital but food is still my passion. Perhaps next year the IACP theme should be \"Back to Passion.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>IACP is pretty current on things. What they’ve done this year is now bloggers have been integrated. I left feeling in past years that I had to do so much on my own blog. I’ve always done food that is following my passion and on what brings about major possibilities for me. I attended a book session that talked about book advance spending and how book tours are back and rely on the digital medium.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My trend is always Mexican, and that comes with owning Copita. I saw the trendologist \u003ca href=\"http://www.ccdinnovation.com/about/staff/nielsen.php\">Kara Nielsen\u003c/a> here and she said, \"You couldn’t be in a more trendy thing, with Mexican food and tequila.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I do modern Mexican food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We used to think of Italian red tablecloths and Chianti -- yet now Italian food has come a long way. One of the trends here is taking cuisines and elevating and educating around the cuisine. Thomas Keller was talking about that and I have seen that in this conference. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/SarahCopeland500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/SarahCopeland500-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Sarah Copeland at IACP Awards. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-59845\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://edibleliving.com/\">Sarah Copeland\u003c/a> is the Food Director at \u003ca href=\"http://www.realsimple.com/\">Real Simple\u003c/a> and author of “\u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/the-newlywed-cookbook.html\">The Newlywed Cookbook\u003c/a>: Fresh Ideas and Modern Recipes for Cooking With and For Each Other.” Her book, “Feast” will be published in December this year and she has authored numerous articles and recipes for Real Simple, Saveur, Food & Wine, Health, Martha Stewart Living, Better Homes & Gardens and Food Network Magazine. She has appeared as a guest on The Martha Stewart Show, Good Morning America and ABC News Now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Copeland:\u003c/strong> A lot of the conference is about relationships. I see faces from every different facet of my career and have been reconnecting and catching up on what people are doing that is new and exciting. There’s a chance to celebrate successes while hopefully helping a few people too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On \"Dirt to Digital,\" one of the most challenging things of this industry from my perspective is that I started in print. That part has changed so dramatically in ten years or even five years. For most food people who are in love with food, it is very tactile how we communicate yet that is changing so much. The dirt part communicates place, smell, and touch, which are all the good things. It includes the agriculture, and the farmer. There are so many layers and it is complex with dirt. That’s how food is to me: we touch humanity and civilization, nutrition and wellness. In the digital sphere, how do you capture that? I think we are all figuring that out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did a panel on recipes and copyright for the conference. There were folks from Pillsbury there who were trying to figure out their contest. We also had teachers, bakery owners and bloggers. As Food Director at Real Simple, I have to be savvy and think about those aspects. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On almost every panel I ask, 'What’s the best panel?' This year, everyone is focusing on video. I worked at the Food Network -- and yet this industry has been print for so long. With \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/user/TheOfficialHungry\">Hungry\u003c/a> and YouTube and different avenues, it’s just so video-focused. The trailer for my first book is a minute and a half but my next one will probably be half that, to seventy-five seconds. My new book 'Feast' from Chronicle Books is coming out in December and I’ve learned a few things that I’ll do differently. I am coming away from the conference with the feeling that there is room for every voice and every talent. If you are generous, they will help you, too.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Culinary Women, In Their Own Words",
"title": "Culinary Women, In Their Own Words",
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"content": "\u003cp>In cooking school classes a decade ago in San Francisco, the classes were equally split by gender. Our instructors had decades more cooking time than us, and tended to have more men in the top leadership chef positions. More recently, the men often still nab more \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamesbeard.org/awards\">awards\u003c/a> and titles like Executive Chef. The advent of pop-up restaurants and organizations like \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a> serve up more opportunities for women who want to work with food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My editor and I wondered what it is like to be a woman in the culinary field \u003cem>right now\u003c/em>. I talked to three Bay Area women: \u003cstrong>Elvia Buendia\u003c/strong> of the newly opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.lalunacupcakes.com/\">La Luna Cupcakes\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com/\">Prospect Restaurant\u003c/a> Chef and Partner \u003cstrong>Pam Mazzola\u003c/strong>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.strongtablesf.com/\">Strong Table\u003c/a> Owner \u003cstrong>Fontaine McFadden\u003c/strong>. I asked them about their own personal growth as a woman in the food industry, their experiences being female in the culinary profession, whether or not they have female mentors, the \"state of women\" in culinary arts, and what it is like to work with other women in the food industry. Their comments have been edited for length and clarity. Here are their thoughts, in their own words: \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59461\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/LaCocina600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/LaCocina600.jpg\" alt=\"Elvia Buendia. Photo courtesy of Eric Wolfinger \" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59461\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Elvia Buendia. Photo courtesy of Eric Wolfinger\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>As a woman, I have received so much support from local organizations like CEO Women, a nonprofit based in Oakland that no longer exists, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a>, the incubator program based in San Francisco. Both programs target and assist entrepreneur women, like myself, to succeed in the world of business. Before participating in CEO Women, I had no idea how to do a business plan, in fact I did not even know what that was or its importance! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My passion for pastries and baking pushed me to pursue my dream in opening my own cupcake shop despite physical struggles such as English as my second language, finances, and even social discouragement. In fact, many people constantly asked me, \"how are you going to open a business if you don't even speak English?\" And I always told them, \"I'm going to sell my cupcakes, not my English skills.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being a woman has been a blessing and has encouraged me to push myself for my own well-being as well as for the well-being of my family. I wanted to inspire my children, now 15 and 21, to reach for their dreams no matter how many struggles they faced to meet their goals. I think so far I'm doing well with constant support from programs such as La Cocina. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Cocina has been a huge help and I admire the women that have given me words of wisdom regarding food and business, among those included are \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/programsmanager/\">Leticia Landa\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/carolamulero\">Carola Mulero\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/development-associate-daniella-sawaya/\">Daniella Sawaya\u003c/a>. Without their help, support, and words of wisdom, I do not know where I would be. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall, my culinary experience is related to the pleasure I receive when I see people eating and enjoying my cupcakes. I am truly honored to contribute to the culinary and baking world, as I bring a mixture of different flavors from my own cultural background and I look forward to continue my professional development as a baking chef in the field.\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59462\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Pam-Mazzola_Jeannie-OConnor1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Pam-Mazzola_Jeannie-OConnor1000.jpg\" alt=\"Pam Mazzola. Photo courtesy of Jeannie O’Connor\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59462\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pam Mazzola. Photo courtesy of Jeannie O’Connor\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>I started my career cooking at the Fairmont Hotel in a male-driven kitchen and quickly realized this was not the direction I wanted my career to go in. My entire cooking career has been at single-owner, female chef-directed restaurants. This has allowed me to be very focused in what I do. Having worked with a great partner and true collaborator (\u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevardrestaurant.com/#info-chef\">Nancy Oakes\u003c/a>) for the past 25 years has allowed me to achieve the success that I have. As in any solid relationship, Nancy and I have always shared in the responsibility of what we do together. We have common goals, a similar sensibility in food, and are like-minded in terms of desires for our careers as well as our lives outside of the restaurant. I raised three children while I was cooking at Boulevard, and I don’t think that would have been possible if I had not been working with someone who was sensitive to my family needs and with whom I shared a deep trust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve seen a marked growth in gender equality in the restaurant field. Female chefs share equal status with male chefs. The difference I see is that there is a natural camaraderie between women in this industry, and a real sense of shared responsibility between women who work together.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59459\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Fontaine_StrongTable-final.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Fontaine_StrongTable-final.jpg\" alt=\"Fontaine McFadden. Photo courtesy of Fontaine McFadden\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59459\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fontaine McFadden. Photo courtesy of Fontaine McFadden\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>My experience in the culinary world started with my first job out of college working the front of the house at an Italian restaurant on Nantucket Island. I then worked as a florist for years, had a brief and uninspiring job in marketing, dabbled in sustainable building and did some personal organization before finding my way back to food when I enrolled in culinary school. I lucked out with my externship turned job at \u003ca href=\"http://www.handsongourmet.com/\">Hands On Gourmet\u003c/a> where I worked between the kitchen and the office as the Director of Operations for two and a half years. In November of last year I left to start my own business and am now reveling in that best/worst decision ever. I run a prepared Paleo meal service available for pick up out of local Crossfit gyms. It's been crazy and amazing and I have a long way to go, but I'm excited to take on the hard work ahead. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To get at the very broad question of what it's like to be a woman in the culinary field I would have to rewind a bit and start with what it was like to grow up with my Dad and big brothers. I have been wholly shaped by them and can't really separate out my experience in the workforce as a woman without first pointing to them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I grew up on an organic farm in Mendocino county and my Dad put me to work, treating me as an equal to my brothers. We all drove tractors, we all did carpentry, we all got up at 5 a.m. and worked in the vineyards until it was too hot to be out in the sun. I built fences, I branded cattle, I installed solar panels and I even did some time in the office. My Dad did an incredible job of instilling a strong work ethic in us all, regardless of the fact they were boys and I was the little girl. And it was the same story with school and sports and social activities; we were all held to an equal standard of excellence. Growing up working, playing and competing with my brothers prepared me to jump into a world dominate by men in charge and taught me how to thrive in that environment. I've been really lucky in that way. My life has not been shaped by discouraging moments or impossible obstacles attributed to my sex alone. I have always seen my abilities and inabilities to be based around who I am as a person and don't believe that something is possible or impossible just because I am a woman. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having said that, I realize that this is not the norm and the fight for equal rights among the sexes is not over (what fight against inequity is truly over?). I have encountered plenty of situations where my own view of gender equality is definitely not shared. In those instances I use that ignorance to fuel my motivation beyond what is inherent in me. Maybe by throwing back dirty kitchen talk, or changing a tire in a dress... whatever it is, I like to mess with gender-based assumptions. And in brandishing this viewpoint I have found that I generally end up working harder than I might otherwise, thus becoming more successful and proving my point all the more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Obviously, there are many avenues to explore within this broad topic of women in the workplace. One of the more interesting and applicable ones for me, is the struggle for balance between masculine and feminine. I believe that chivalry is not dead. I love having doors opened for me, but I also want to be taken seriously in my career and respected as a member of my community. Luckily, these are not mutually exclusive. As I've gotten older I have found a better balance between my more overt tomboy tendencies and my girly-girl attributes (of which there are many). I used to think that it was one or the other but thankfully I am finding ways for those two to coexist. For me, the most important thing is that I act in a way that is indicative of how I want to be treated. That is all I can control and if I do my best in that area then I'm feelin' good.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n",
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"excerpt": "What is it like to be a woman in the culinary field today? Mary Ladd interviews Elvia Buendia, Pam Mazzola and Fontaine McFadden. They share their personal stories regarding the role gender has played in their career development.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In cooking school classes a decade ago in San Francisco, the classes were equally split by gender. Our instructors had decades more cooking time than us, and tended to have more men in the top leadership chef positions. More recently, the men often still nab more \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamesbeard.org/awards\">awards\u003c/a> and titles like Executive Chef. The advent of pop-up restaurants and organizations like \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a> serve up more opportunities for women who want to work with food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My editor and I wondered what it is like to be a woman in the culinary field \u003cem>right now\u003c/em>. I talked to three Bay Area women: \u003cstrong>Elvia Buendia\u003c/strong> of the newly opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.lalunacupcakes.com/\">La Luna Cupcakes\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com/\">Prospect Restaurant\u003c/a> Chef and Partner \u003cstrong>Pam Mazzola\u003c/strong>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.strongtablesf.com/\">Strong Table\u003c/a> Owner \u003cstrong>Fontaine McFadden\u003c/strong>. I asked them about their own personal growth as a woman in the food industry, their experiences being female in the culinary profession, whether or not they have female mentors, the \"state of women\" in culinary arts, and what it is like to work with other women in the food industry. Their comments have been edited for length and clarity. Here are their thoughts, in their own words: \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59461\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/LaCocina600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/LaCocina600.jpg\" alt=\"Elvia Buendia. Photo courtesy of Eric Wolfinger \" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59461\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Elvia Buendia. Photo courtesy of Eric Wolfinger\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>As a woman, I have received so much support from local organizations like CEO Women, a nonprofit based in Oakland that no longer exists, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a>, the incubator program based in San Francisco. Both programs target and assist entrepreneur women, like myself, to succeed in the world of business. Before participating in CEO Women, I had no idea how to do a business plan, in fact I did not even know what that was or its importance! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My passion for pastries and baking pushed me to pursue my dream in opening my own cupcake shop despite physical struggles such as English as my second language, finances, and even social discouragement. In fact, many people constantly asked me, \"how are you going to open a business if you don't even speak English?\" And I always told them, \"I'm going to sell my cupcakes, not my English skills.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being a woman has been a blessing and has encouraged me to push myself for my own well-being as well as for the well-being of my family. I wanted to inspire my children, now 15 and 21, to reach for their dreams no matter how many struggles they faced to meet their goals. I think so far I'm doing well with constant support from programs such as La Cocina. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Cocina has been a huge help and I admire the women that have given me words of wisdom regarding food and business, among those included are \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/programsmanager/\">Leticia Landa\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/carolamulero\">Carola Mulero\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/development-associate-daniella-sawaya/\">Daniella Sawaya\u003c/a>. Without their help, support, and words of wisdom, I do not know where I would be. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall, my culinary experience is related to the pleasure I receive when I see people eating and enjoying my cupcakes. I am truly honored to contribute to the culinary and baking world, as I bring a mixture of different flavors from my own cultural background and I look forward to continue my professional development as a baking chef in the field.\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59462\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Pam-Mazzola_Jeannie-OConnor1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Pam-Mazzola_Jeannie-OConnor1000.jpg\" alt=\"Pam Mazzola. Photo courtesy of Jeannie O’Connor\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59462\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pam Mazzola. Photo courtesy of Jeannie O’Connor\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>I started my career cooking at the Fairmont Hotel in a male-driven kitchen and quickly realized this was not the direction I wanted my career to go in. My entire cooking career has been at single-owner, female chef-directed restaurants. This has allowed me to be very focused in what I do. Having worked with a great partner and true collaborator (\u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevardrestaurant.com/#info-chef\">Nancy Oakes\u003c/a>) for the past 25 years has allowed me to achieve the success that I have. As in any solid relationship, Nancy and I have always shared in the responsibility of what we do together. We have common goals, a similar sensibility in food, and are like-minded in terms of desires for our careers as well as our lives outside of the restaurant. I raised three children while I was cooking at Boulevard, and I don’t think that would have been possible if I had not been working with someone who was sensitive to my family needs and with whom I shared a deep trust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve seen a marked growth in gender equality in the restaurant field. Female chefs share equal status with male chefs. The difference I see is that there is a natural camaraderie between women in this industry, and a real sense of shared responsibility between women who work together.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59459\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Fontaine_StrongTable-final.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Fontaine_StrongTable-final.jpg\" alt=\"Fontaine McFadden. Photo courtesy of Fontaine McFadden\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59459\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fontaine McFadden. Photo courtesy of Fontaine McFadden\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>My experience in the culinary world started with my first job out of college working the front of the house at an Italian restaurant on Nantucket Island. I then worked as a florist for years, had a brief and uninspiring job in marketing, dabbled in sustainable building and did some personal organization before finding my way back to food when I enrolled in culinary school. I lucked out with my externship turned job at \u003ca href=\"http://www.handsongourmet.com/\">Hands On Gourmet\u003c/a> where I worked between the kitchen and the office as the Director of Operations for two and a half years. In November of last year I left to start my own business and am now reveling in that best/worst decision ever. I run a prepared Paleo meal service available for pick up out of local Crossfit gyms. It's been crazy and amazing and I have a long way to go, but I'm excited to take on the hard work ahead. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To get at the very broad question of what it's like to be a woman in the culinary field I would have to rewind a bit and start with what it was like to grow up with my Dad and big brothers. I have been wholly shaped by them and can't really separate out my experience in the workforce as a woman without first pointing to them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I grew up on an organic farm in Mendocino county and my Dad put me to work, treating me as an equal to my brothers. We all drove tractors, we all did carpentry, we all got up at 5 a.m. and worked in the vineyards until it was too hot to be out in the sun. I built fences, I branded cattle, I installed solar panels and I even did some time in the office. My Dad did an incredible job of instilling a strong work ethic in us all, regardless of the fact they were boys and I was the little girl. And it was the same story with school and sports and social activities; we were all held to an equal standard of excellence. Growing up working, playing and competing with my brothers prepared me to jump into a world dominate by men in charge and taught me how to thrive in that environment. I've been really lucky in that way. My life has not been shaped by discouraging moments or impossible obstacles attributed to my sex alone. I have always seen my abilities and inabilities to be based around who I am as a person and don't believe that something is possible or impossible just because I am a woman. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having said that, I realize that this is not the norm and the fight for equal rights among the sexes is not over (what fight against inequity is truly over?). I have encountered plenty of situations where my own view of gender equality is definitely not shared. In those instances I use that ignorance to fuel my motivation beyond what is inherent in me. Maybe by throwing back dirty kitchen talk, or changing a tire in a dress... whatever it is, I like to mess with gender-based assumptions. And in brandishing this viewpoint I have found that I generally end up working harder than I might otherwise, thus becoming more successful and proving my point all the more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Obviously, there are many avenues to explore within this broad topic of women in the workplace. One of the more interesting and applicable ones for me, is the struggle for balance between masculine and feminine. I believe that chivalry is not dead. I love having doors opened for me, but I also want to be taken seriously in my career and respected as a member of my community. Luckily, these are not mutually exclusive. As I've gotten older I have found a better balance between my more overt tomboy tendencies and my girly-girl attributes (of which there are many). I used to think that it was one or the other but thankfully I am finding ways for those two to coexist. For me, the most important thing is that I act in a way that is indicative of how I want to be treated. That is all I can control and if I do my best in that area then I'm feelin' good.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "What Do We Lose, And Gain, When Reducing A Life To A Recipe?",
"title": "What Do We Lose, And Gain, When Reducing A Life To A Recipe?",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59479\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/theautumn.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/theautumn.jpg\" alt=\"Detail of <em>The Autumn,</em> a painting of a man made of food by 16th century Italian painter Giuseppe Arcimboldo. Photo: Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images\" width=\"750\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59479\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Detail of \u003cem>The Autumn,\u003c/em> a painting of a man made of food by 16th century Italian painter Giuseppe Arcimboldo. Photo: Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Maria Godoy, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/02/176064249/what-do-we-lose-and-gain-when-reducing-a-life-to-a-recipe\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/3/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What is the essence of a life? Is it our career accomplishments? Our devotion to friends and family? Our secret little talents and foibles? Is it, perhaps, our killer recipe for beef stroganoff?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That question underlies a controversy burning up the Twitterverse in recent days over an \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/03/31/science/space/yvonne-brill-rocket-scientist-dies-at-88.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0\">obituary\u003c/a> of Yvonne Brill published by \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>. Brill was a pioneering American rocket scientist in the 1940s — at a time when \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/13.7/2013/03/31/175862363/should-all-women-heed-authors-advice-to-lean-in\">leaning in\u003c/a>\" meant bending over the stove to prepare dinner for hubby. And yet, in its original form (it was later \u003ca href=\"http://newsdiffs.org/diff/192021/192137/www.nytimes.com/2013/03/31/science/space/yvonne-brill-rocket-scientist-dies-at-88.html\">edited\u003c/a>), the \u003cem>Times\u003c/em>' obituary led off with a quite different description of Brill. It began:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"She made a mean beef stroganoff, followed her husband from job to job and took eight years off from work to raise three children. 'The world's best mom,' her son Matthew said.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>It's easy to see why the choice to lead off with evocations of domesticity set off accusations of \u003ca href=\"http://www.newyorker.com/online/blogs/closeread/2013/04/yvonne-brill-times-obituary-beef-stroganoff.html\">sexism\u003c/a> around the Interwebz, prompting the \u003cem>Times\u003c/em>' public editor to \u003ca href=\"http://publiceditor.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/04/01/gender-questions-arise-in-obituary-of-rocket-scientist-and-her-beef-stroganoff/#more-3632\">weigh in\u003c/a>. As Mary Elizabeth Williams succintly \u003ca href=\"http://www.salon.com/2013/04/01/ground_breaking_female_rocket_scientist_sure_could_cook/\">summarized\u003c/a> the outrage in Salon, \"If one day Stephen Hawking's obit kicks off with what a great husband he was or Leonard Susskind's leads with his amazing brownies, then sure, we'll all have a good chortle.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, we here at The Salt approach every aspect of life through the lens of food — from how it affects our health to its importance now, and long ago, in culture and our environment. And so we can sort of understand what Douglas Martin, the \u003cem>Times \u003c/em>reporter who penned Brill's obituary, might have been attempting to accomplish — clumsily and ultimately, unsuccessfully — by beginning his tale of an extraordinary life with a reference to a very ordinary dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kay Powell, the \u003cem>Atlanta\u003c/em>\u003cem> Journal-Constitution\u003c/em>'s retired obit writer, \u003ca href=\"http://stevebuttry.wordpress.com/2010/07/19/kay-powell-knows-the-power-of-details-in-obituaries/\">renowned\u003c/a> for her ability to find the compelling details of lives lived outside the limelight, said to me, \"I know what they were trying to do ... but as a woman and as a professional obit writer and reporter, I can say [the \u003cem>Times\u003c/em>' obituary of Brill] did not work for me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But perhaps it could have, with a little more thought. Not as the lead, but as part of a fuller exploration of who Brill was. As Amy Davidson \u003ca href=\"http://www.newyorker.com/online/blogs/closeread/2013/04/yvonne-brill-times-obituary-beef-stroganoff.html#ixzz2PS1a5iqf\">noted\u003c/a> in her\u003cem> New Yorker \u003c/em>blog, beef stroganoff can be one of the easiest dishes to make — one step up above Hamburger Helper. \"It can be the ultimate working mother's preparation,\" Davidson writes. That Brill's children remembered her for the dish says something about the demands juggled by this brilliant scientist, whose \u003ca href=\"http://motherboard.vice.com/blog/yvonne-brill-shrank-the-world-was-also-great-cook\">inventions\u003c/a> are still used in the satellites that power modern communications.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because food is undeniably a powerful marker of identity — a reminder of where we came from, a key factor in where we're going in terms of personal and planetary health. What we choose to eat — vegetarian? Kosher? Locally sourced? — can be as much or more of a statement of who we are as what we do for a living.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just this weekend, I discovered something about my own history and identity tucked inside the pages of a cookbook. I was raised in a Guatemalan-Colombian-American family, where a dash of lime was always considered the perfect condiment for everything: soups, salads, tuna fish. Even today, I'll sneak in the occasional bag of lime-topped Fritos. It never fails to conjure up memories of my late father, for whom the snack was as necessary as the TV remote when watching his beloved baseball games.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perusing my copy of Maricel Presilla's excellent \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/01/14/167615034/cross-culture-cilantro-sauce-and-other-secrets-of-gran-cocina-latina\">Gran Cocina Latina\u003c/a>, I discovered the historical context of this family habit: Apparently, marinating foods in citrus was a hallmark of medieval Spanish cooking, a technique the conquistadors imparted to the Americas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Again, I thought of my Papi. So much back story contained in a simple squeeze of lime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several years ago, when I was part of an NPR team that won a DuPont Award, my husband joked, \"Now we know what your obituary will say.\" And yet, if it were also to mention, \"She squeezed the juice of lime on everything,\" I would not object.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just don't make it the lead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tell us: What would your \"food\" obit say?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Note: This post was updated to include a reference to Amy Davidson's New Yorker post, and a link to a \u003ca href=\"http://motherboard.vice.com/blog/yvonne-brill-shrank-the-world-was-also-great-cook\">Motherboard story\u003c/a> explaining how Brill's inventions worked. Both are worth a read.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59479\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/theautumn.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/theautumn.jpg\" alt=\"Detail of <em>The Autumn,</em> a painting of a man made of food by 16th century Italian painter Giuseppe Arcimboldo. Photo: Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images\" width=\"750\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59479\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Detail of \u003cem>The Autumn,\u003c/em> a painting of a man made of food by 16th century Italian painter Giuseppe Arcimboldo. Photo: Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Maria Godoy, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/04/02/176064249/what-do-we-lose-and-gain-when-reducing-a-life-to-a-recipe\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/3/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What is the essence of a life? Is it our career accomplishments? Our devotion to friends and family? Our secret little talents and foibles? Is it, perhaps, our killer recipe for beef stroganoff?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That question underlies a controversy burning up the Twitterverse in recent days over an \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/03/31/science/space/yvonne-brill-rocket-scientist-dies-at-88.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0\">obituary\u003c/a> of Yvonne Brill published by \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>. Brill was a pioneering American rocket scientist in the 1940s — at a time when \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/13.7/2013/03/31/175862363/should-all-women-heed-authors-advice-to-lean-in\">leaning in\u003c/a>\" meant bending over the stove to prepare dinner for hubby. And yet, in its original form (it was later \u003ca href=\"http://newsdiffs.org/diff/192021/192137/www.nytimes.com/2013/03/31/science/space/yvonne-brill-rocket-scientist-dies-at-88.html\">edited\u003c/a>), the \u003cem>Times\u003c/em>' obituary led off with a quite different description of Brill. It began:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"She made a mean beef stroganoff, followed her husband from job to job and took eight years off from work to raise three children. 'The world's best mom,' her son Matthew said.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>It's easy to see why the choice to lead off with evocations of domesticity set off accusations of \u003ca href=\"http://www.newyorker.com/online/blogs/closeread/2013/04/yvonne-brill-times-obituary-beef-stroganoff.html\">sexism\u003c/a> around the Interwebz, prompting the \u003cem>Times\u003c/em>' public editor to \u003ca href=\"http://publiceditor.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/04/01/gender-questions-arise-in-obituary-of-rocket-scientist-and-her-beef-stroganoff/#more-3632\">weigh in\u003c/a>. As Mary Elizabeth Williams succintly \u003ca href=\"http://www.salon.com/2013/04/01/ground_breaking_female_rocket_scientist_sure_could_cook/\">summarized\u003c/a> the outrage in Salon, \"If one day Stephen Hawking's obit kicks off with what a great husband he was or Leonard Susskind's leads with his amazing brownies, then sure, we'll all have a good chortle.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, we here at The Salt approach every aspect of life through the lens of food — from how it affects our health to its importance now, and long ago, in culture and our environment. And so we can sort of understand what Douglas Martin, the \u003cem>Times \u003c/em>reporter who penned Brill's obituary, might have been attempting to accomplish — clumsily and ultimately, unsuccessfully — by beginning his tale of an extraordinary life with a reference to a very ordinary dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kay Powell, the \u003cem>Atlanta\u003c/em>\u003cem> Journal-Constitution\u003c/em>'s retired obit writer, \u003ca href=\"http://stevebuttry.wordpress.com/2010/07/19/kay-powell-knows-the-power-of-details-in-obituaries/\">renowned\u003c/a> for her ability to find the compelling details of lives lived outside the limelight, said to me, \"I know what they were trying to do ... but as a woman and as a professional obit writer and reporter, I can say [the \u003cem>Times\u003c/em>' obituary of Brill] did not work for me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But perhaps it could have, with a little more thought. Not as the lead, but as part of a fuller exploration of who Brill was. As Amy Davidson \u003ca href=\"http://www.newyorker.com/online/blogs/closeread/2013/04/yvonne-brill-times-obituary-beef-stroganoff.html#ixzz2PS1a5iqf\">noted\u003c/a> in her\u003cem> New Yorker \u003c/em>blog, beef stroganoff can be one of the easiest dishes to make — one step up above Hamburger Helper. \"It can be the ultimate working mother's preparation,\" Davidson writes. That Brill's children remembered her for the dish says something about the demands juggled by this brilliant scientist, whose \u003ca href=\"http://motherboard.vice.com/blog/yvonne-brill-shrank-the-world-was-also-great-cook\">inventions\u003c/a> are still used in the satellites that power modern communications.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because food is undeniably a powerful marker of identity — a reminder of where we came from, a key factor in where we're going in terms of personal and planetary health. What we choose to eat — vegetarian? Kosher? Locally sourced? — can be as much or more of a statement of who we are as what we do for a living.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just this weekend, I discovered something about my own history and identity tucked inside the pages of a cookbook. I was raised in a Guatemalan-Colombian-American family, where a dash of lime was always considered the perfect condiment for everything: soups, salads, tuna fish. Even today, I'll sneak in the occasional bag of lime-topped Fritos. It never fails to conjure up memories of my late father, for whom the snack was as necessary as the TV remote when watching his beloved baseball games.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perusing my copy of Maricel Presilla's excellent \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/01/14/167615034/cross-culture-cilantro-sauce-and-other-secrets-of-gran-cocina-latina\">Gran Cocina Latina\u003c/a>, I discovered the historical context of this family habit: Apparently, marinating foods in citrus was a hallmark of medieval Spanish cooking, a technique the conquistadors imparted to the Americas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Again, I thought of my Papi. So much back story contained in a simple squeeze of lime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several years ago, when I was part of an NPR team that won a DuPont Award, my husband joked, \"Now we know what your obituary will say.\" And yet, if it were also to mention, \"She squeezed the juice of lime on everything,\" I would not object.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just don't make it the lead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tell us: What would your \"food\" obit say?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Note: This post was updated to include a reference to Amy Davidson's New Yorker post, and a link to a \u003ca href=\"http://motherboard.vice.com/blog/yvonne-brill-shrank-the-world-was-also-great-cook\">Motherboard story\u003c/a> explaining how Brill's inventions worked. Both are worth a read.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/corndog-frying.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/corndog-frying-290x290.png\" alt=\"corndog frying\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-59035\">\u003c/a>When I was a boy, I took everything the Catholic church told me literally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After my first visit to the confessional, I was absolved of my transgressions by Father O’Connor and told that, as soon as I said my ten Hail Marys, my soul would be light and unburdened by the weight of sin. When I had finished my last “Amen,\" I ran outside to the church’s tetherball court and began jumping around the blacktop, convinced that with each leap, I rose higher in the air and therefore rose closer to God. It was a very good feeling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I took Holy Communion, I understood that, thanks to the miracle of Transubstantiation, I was accepting an actual piece of Christ’s body onto the tip of my tongue. But which piece? I didn’t dare ask the priest who was doling out the goods, so I’d just return to my pew and sit next to my mother with the Eucharist softening and balancing on my tongue. I was afraid to chew the wafer, thinking it would cause Jesus unnecessary pain, so I just let it rest there until it dissolved, wondering if I could tell from what part of His body it came. Was it from His thigh or His breast? Was it light meat or dark? If I were to have judged based solely on flavor, I would have come to the conclusion that I was eating a part of His sandal every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet I always found myself wanting to go back for seconds. We never ate before morning Mass, so I was always extremely hungry. When everyone else was praying for the souls of the recently departed, I was praying for breakfast. Ingesting the communion wafer may have brought me closer to Christ, but it also whetted my appetite as it found its way into my stomach and got my gastric juices churning. It was a uniquely Catholic torture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Easter Mass, which felt like the longest of the year, I found this torture even more grueling, which was appropriate given to constant reminder of Christ’s suffering and dying for our sins. I identified with Him because I was suffering and dying, too. Of hunger. I’d look at the altar and think the priests could have done a much better job at feeding their congregation if they had set it up as a buffet. It was already set with silver and a nice cloth, so they didn’t have far to go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I never thought as to what they might serve at the buffet, but I was confident that whatever it was, they’d never run out of anything because Jesus would never let that kind of thing happen. Especially at one of his own parties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the bible told me so. And quite literally, for that matter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crucifixion Corn Dogs\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Crucifix-corndog.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Crucifix-corndog.png\" alt=\"Crucifix Corndog\" width=\"602\" height=\"605\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-59036\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If I were a seven year-old today and attending Easter mass, I know what I would like to see served at an Easter Service buffet. Naturally, everything would conform to a Jesus/Easter theme: Hot cross buns, hollow chocolate bunnies, and cereal in the shape of crosses and halos on one end; a deacon with a big knife to carve up the Lamb of God on the other. Or the Ham of God, since I wasn’t a fan of eating lamb back then.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And in the middle of everything would be a treat which would really bring home the drama of Christ’s Passion in edible form. Something delicious and filling, but would still remind us of Christ’s suffering with each and every mouthful: corn dogs on a cross.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re more substantial than a communion wafer, and more delicious, too. And, given the nature of hot dogs, you still won’t be certain from which part of the body they came.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the Catholic church suffering a loss in attendance, even at Easter time, drastic measures should be taken to reverse the decline. Ordaining women, getting rid of the celibacy rule, and welcoming gay, lesbian, and transgendered would be nice, but I don’t see these things happening any time soon, so they might as well throw a nice, big buffet and see what happens. Or they might come up with some other novel approaches. All they have to do is ask the seven year-olds* of their diocese. After all, Jesus loves the little children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This recipe is adapted from Saveur magazine’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/State-Fair-Corn-Dogs\">State Fair\u003c/a> recipe, which was, of course, gotten from poor people who work state fairs, who got it from some other people, who most likely got it from wheat and corn crops. And cows. And mustard companies. The using-a-chopstick-as-a-handle trick I learned from \u003ca href=\"http://thepioneerwoman.com/cooking/2011/10/classic-corn-dogs-and-cheese-on-a-stick/\">Ree Drummond’s\u003c/a> website. She most likely learned this trick from Beatrice Lillie’s character Mrs. Meers in Thoroughly Modern Millie. And \u003ca href=\"http://mattbites.com/\">Matt Armendariz\u003c/a> will very likely be including this recipe in his upcoming Holidays On A Stick! cookbook (publishing date undetermined).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the idea of squirting a mustard Jesus onto your corn dog makes you uncomfortable, you can still stay in theme by creating a condiment version of The Penitent Thief. Or The Impenitent one, if that is more your style.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 8.\u003c/strong> To serve multitudes, pray over this recipe’s ingredients for as long as needed if you are perfect and without sin. For everyone else, multiply the recipe by hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>2 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/3 cup yellow cornmeal\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 tablespoons sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons baking powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon dry mustard\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 teaspoons kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 3/4 cups whole milk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup buttermilk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 eggs, lightly flogged\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>16 6″ hot dogs. I have chosen to use chicken dogs, which is more than likely still offensive to practicing Catholics on Good Friday, but probably less so than beef franks.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Vegetable oil, for frying\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 pairs of wooden take-out chopsticks to serve as posts, 8 coffee stirrers to serve as crossbeams.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Yellow mustard and (non-yellow) catsup for garnish\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, dry mustard, white pepper, and salt. In a separate bowl, combine milk, buttermilk, and egg until the trinity becomes a confusing, inseparable muddle. Add the liquid to the dry ingredients until all becomes binding and Universal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a wide, deep pan or Dutch oven (this requires more elbow room than an ordinary, non-Catholic corn dog recipe), pour oil to a depth of 2″ and warm over medium-high heat until the oil reaches 350°F.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Wiener-Demo.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Wiener-Demo-290x290.png\" alt=\"Weiner demo\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-59038\">\u003c/a>3. As the oil is heating, make the hot dog crucifixes. To assemble, cut about 2″ off the narrow part of each chop stick which, under ordinary circumstances, be the end one would place in one’s mouth. Discard the circumcised tips. Gently insert the chopstick into one end of a hot dog, until all that is left visible is a 2″ handle. Cut a second hot dog in thirds, discarding/sacrificing the center piece. These will be the arms of the cross. To attach, cut a coffee stirrer to the appropriate length and slide through the center of the top half of the whole wiener, then slide on the remaining 2/3 of cut wiener. (See photo**).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Dip one crucifix into the batter, coating well. The batter should be firm and giving, but not run. If it is too dry, add a little milk. Too runny, add a little more flour. The batter is as forgiving as He is. Gently shake off any excess and lay directly into the pot of hot oil. Fry on one side for about 1 1/2 minutes. Using tongs, gently turn its other cheek and fry for the same amount of time. On the third minute, let it rise from the oil and rest on a shroud of paper towels to cool. Repeat until all crucifixes are battered and fried.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. To serve, decorate with mustard. You do not have to put the image of Christ on every corn dog. If you have any martyrs in your family, feel free to squirt on their likeness and share it with them to show that you know how much they themselves have suffered, which will give them great comfort. Just please remind them not to bite into the coffee stirrer crossbeam, which most decidedly will not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Or eight year-olds. Luis Antonio de Bourbon was ordained cardinal on 19 December, 1735. He was eight years old\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>** Note: This is a photo of a practice-run crucifixion dog in which I discovered that coffee stirrers are excellent for sidebeam support, but terrible for for use as handles, which is why one should use chopsticks.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/corndog-frying.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/corndog-frying-290x290.png\" alt=\"corndog frying\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-59035\">\u003c/a>When I was a boy, I took everything the Catholic church told me literally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After my first visit to the confessional, I was absolved of my transgressions by Father O’Connor and told that, as soon as I said my ten Hail Marys, my soul would be light and unburdened by the weight of sin. When I had finished my last “Amen,\" I ran outside to the church’s tetherball court and began jumping around the blacktop, convinced that with each leap, I rose higher in the air and therefore rose closer to God. It was a very good feeling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I took Holy Communion, I understood that, thanks to the miracle of Transubstantiation, I was accepting an actual piece of Christ’s body onto the tip of my tongue. But which piece? I didn’t dare ask the priest who was doling out the goods, so I’d just return to my pew and sit next to my mother with the Eucharist softening and balancing on my tongue. I was afraid to chew the wafer, thinking it would cause Jesus unnecessary pain, so I just let it rest there until it dissolved, wondering if I could tell from what part of His body it came. Was it from His thigh or His breast? Was it light meat or dark? If I were to have judged based solely on flavor, I would have come to the conclusion that I was eating a part of His sandal every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet I always found myself wanting to go back for seconds. We never ate before morning Mass, so I was always extremely hungry. When everyone else was praying for the souls of the recently departed, I was praying for breakfast. Ingesting the communion wafer may have brought me closer to Christ, but it also whetted my appetite as it found its way into my stomach and got my gastric juices churning. It was a uniquely Catholic torture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Easter Mass, which felt like the longest of the year, I found this torture even more grueling, which was appropriate given to constant reminder of Christ’s suffering and dying for our sins. I identified with Him because I was suffering and dying, too. Of hunger. I’d look at the altar and think the priests could have done a much better job at feeding their congregation if they had set it up as a buffet. It was already set with silver and a nice cloth, so they didn’t have far to go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I never thought as to what they might serve at the buffet, but I was confident that whatever it was, they’d never run out of anything because Jesus would never let that kind of thing happen. Especially at one of his own parties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the bible told me so. And quite literally, for that matter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crucifixion Corn Dogs\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Crucifix-corndog.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Crucifix-corndog.png\" alt=\"Crucifix Corndog\" width=\"602\" height=\"605\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-59036\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If I were a seven year-old today and attending Easter mass, I know what I would like to see served at an Easter Service buffet. Naturally, everything would conform to a Jesus/Easter theme: Hot cross buns, hollow chocolate bunnies, and cereal in the shape of crosses and halos on one end; a deacon with a big knife to carve up the Lamb of God on the other. Or the Ham of God, since I wasn’t a fan of eating lamb back then.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And in the middle of everything would be a treat which would really bring home the drama of Christ’s Passion in edible form. Something delicious and filling, but would still remind us of Christ’s suffering with each and every mouthful: corn dogs on a cross.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re more substantial than a communion wafer, and more delicious, too. And, given the nature of hot dogs, you still won’t be certain from which part of the body they came.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the Catholic church suffering a loss in attendance, even at Easter time, drastic measures should be taken to reverse the decline. Ordaining women, getting rid of the celibacy rule, and welcoming gay, lesbian, and transgendered would be nice, but I don’t see these things happening any time soon, so they might as well throw a nice, big buffet and see what happens. Or they might come up with some other novel approaches. All they have to do is ask the seven year-olds* of their diocese. After all, Jesus loves the little children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This recipe is adapted from Saveur magazine’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/State-Fair-Corn-Dogs\">State Fair\u003c/a> recipe, which was, of course, gotten from poor people who work state fairs, who got it from some other people, who most likely got it from wheat and corn crops. And cows. And mustard companies. The using-a-chopstick-as-a-handle trick I learned from \u003ca href=\"http://thepioneerwoman.com/cooking/2011/10/classic-corn-dogs-and-cheese-on-a-stick/\">Ree Drummond’s\u003c/a> website. She most likely learned this trick from Beatrice Lillie’s character Mrs. Meers in Thoroughly Modern Millie. And \u003ca href=\"http://mattbites.com/\">Matt Armendariz\u003c/a> will very likely be including this recipe in his upcoming Holidays On A Stick! cookbook (publishing date undetermined).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the idea of squirting a mustard Jesus onto your corn dog makes you uncomfortable, you can still stay in theme by creating a condiment version of The Penitent Thief. Or The Impenitent one, if that is more your style.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 8.\u003c/strong> To serve multitudes, pray over this recipe’s ingredients for as long as needed if you are perfect and without sin. For everyone else, multiply the recipe by hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>2 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/3 cup yellow cornmeal\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 tablespoons sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons baking powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon dry mustard\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 teaspoons kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 3/4 cups whole milk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup buttermilk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 eggs, lightly flogged\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>16 6″ hot dogs. I have chosen to use chicken dogs, which is more than likely still offensive to practicing Catholics on Good Friday, but probably less so than beef franks.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Vegetable oil, for frying\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 pairs of wooden take-out chopsticks to serve as posts, 8 coffee stirrers to serve as crossbeams.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Yellow mustard and (non-yellow) catsup for garnish\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, dry mustard, white pepper, and salt. In a separate bowl, combine milk, buttermilk, and egg until the trinity becomes a confusing, inseparable muddle. Add the liquid to the dry ingredients until all becomes binding and Universal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a wide, deep pan or Dutch oven (this requires more elbow room than an ordinary, non-Catholic corn dog recipe), pour oil to a depth of 2″ and warm over medium-high heat until the oil reaches 350°F.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Wiener-Demo.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Wiener-Demo-290x290.png\" alt=\"Weiner demo\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-59038\">\u003c/a>3. As the oil is heating, make the hot dog crucifixes. To assemble, cut about 2″ off the narrow part of each chop stick which, under ordinary circumstances, be the end one would place in one’s mouth. Discard the circumcised tips. Gently insert the chopstick into one end of a hot dog, until all that is left visible is a 2″ handle. Cut a second hot dog in thirds, discarding/sacrificing the center piece. These will be the arms of the cross. To attach, cut a coffee stirrer to the appropriate length and slide through the center of the top half of the whole wiener, then slide on the remaining 2/3 of cut wiener. (See photo**).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Dip one crucifix into the batter, coating well. The batter should be firm and giving, but not run. If it is too dry, add a little milk. Too runny, add a little more flour. The batter is as forgiving as He is. Gently shake off any excess and lay directly into the pot of hot oil. Fry on one side for about 1 1/2 minutes. Using tongs, gently turn its other cheek and fry for the same amount of time. On the third minute, let it rise from the oil and rest on a shroud of paper towels to cool. Repeat until all crucifixes are battered and fried.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. To serve, decorate with mustard. You do not have to put the image of Christ on every corn dog. If you have any martyrs in your family, feel free to squirt on their likeness and share it with them to show that you know how much they themselves have suffered, which will give them great comfort. Just please remind them not to bite into the coffee stirrer crossbeam, which most decidedly will not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Or eight year-olds. Luis Antonio de Bourbon was ordained cardinal on 19 December, 1735. He was eight years old\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>** Note: This is a photo of a practice-run crucifixion dog in which I discovered that coffee stirrers are excellent for sidebeam support, but terrible for for use as handles, which is why one should use chopsticks.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Homemade Peeps, And More Easter Treats, A La Thomas Keller",
"title": "Homemade Peeps, And More Easter Treats, A La Thomas Keller",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59160\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_eggs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_eggs.jpg\" alt=\"Marshmallow eggs made with homemade flavored sugar are a colorful treat at Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif. To make them, pipe homemade marshmallow into hollow plastic eggs. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"351\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59160\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marshmallow eggs made with homemade flavored sugar are a colorful treat at Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif. To make them, pipe homemade marshmallow into hollow plastic eggs. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/29/175599684/homemade-peeps-and-more-easter-treats-a-la-thomas-keller\">Morning Edition\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/03/20130329_me_18.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Camila Domonoske, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/29/175599684/homemade-peeps-and-more-easter-treats-a-la-thomas-keller\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/29/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/175620951/bouchon-bakery\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon-bakery-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"Bouchon Bakery by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-59162\">\u003c/a>After 40 long days of Lenten abstention, Easter is a time for indulgence. And for those of us who don't observe Lent — well, who can resist all those chocolate bunnies? It's a time for sweets, with or without an excuse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you're looking for Easter indulgences that are a little more refined than Peeps and jelly beans,\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong> take a cue from renowned chef Thomas Keller, whose \u003ca href=\"http://bouchonbistro.com/\">Bouchon\u003c/a> restaurants are as famous for their baked goods as they are for their bistro fare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Earlier this week, NPR's Renee Montagne visited the kitchen of the Bouchon restaurant and bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif., for a taste of some of Keller's takes on classic Easter sweets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of us can't sneak a taste of Keller's hot cross bun frosting, like Montagne did, but thanks to the cookbook \u003cem>Bouchon Bakery\u003c/em>, which Keller co-authored, we can re-create some of those treats at home. Be warned, though: Keller's standards are exacting, and reproducing some of his items requires extra prep work — and maybe some shopping for new kitchen tools.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For precision baking, Keller says a scale is crucial; flour can easily shift in density, so measuring in cups is dangerously inaccurate, he argues.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Throw away your measuring cups,\" Keller tells Montagne. \"Buy yourself a gram scale instead.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other items you might need that may not be kitchen staples, like acetate sheets and powdered food coloring, make cooking easier and cleanup far less stressful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keller led NPR through the process of making three Easter treats from his kitchen. Recipes for all three can be found farther down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59159\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhot-cross-buns.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhot-cross-buns-290x217.jpg\" alt='The Bouchon Bakery cookbook demonstrates how to apply the frosting \"cross\" on a pan of hot cross buns. Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books' width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59159\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Bouchon Bakery cookbook demonstrates how to apply the frosting \"cross\" on a pan of hot cross buns.\u003cbr> Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hot Cross Buns\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"#buns\">Hot cross buns\u003c/a> date back hundreds of years and have traditionally been made on Good Friday. These dough rolls marked with a cross had a religious component, certainly, but they're also symbolic of another kind of devotion, Keller explains. \"Eating the hot cross bun with your friend meant that you'd be friends for life, so it really signified that kind of friendship in a positive way,\" he says. \"And then there's another myth: If you kept a bun for an entire year, it would not go moldy, and if you became sick and you ate it, it would cure whatever sickness you have.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bouchon's version is a rich brioche roll studded with dried currants and cranberries. Pastry chefs top the brioche with a cross of white confectioners' sugar frosting, spiced with cinnamon and cardamom. Myths aside, don't let them sit for a year: They're best eaten the same day they're baked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Marshmallow Eggs\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keller has fond memories of that springtime staple, Peeps: \"They're very cute,\" he says, \"and, you know, they remind us of when we were kids. I mean, we ate those all the time.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bouchon's egg-shaped, homemade \u003ca href=\"#eggs\">marshmallows\u003c/a> turn that childhood memory into a grown-up treat. The marshmallow imparts a richness that can come as a surprise — Montagne describes it as \"almost like thick cream.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59163\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon-carrotmuffins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon-carrotmuffins-290x216.jpg\" alt=\"Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery makes a variety of carrot-themed desserts — carrot cake, carrot muffins and carrot cupcakes — to celebrate Eas Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"216\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59163\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery makes a variety of carrot-themed desserts — carrot cake, carrot muffins and carrot cupcakes — to celebrate Eas Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Carrot Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The last recipe is a little less obviously Easter-related, but Keller says \u003ca href=\"#muffins\">carrot muffins\u003c/a> are a holiday staple. \"Bunnies eat carrots. We've got to have carrots involved in Easter, because that's Bugs Bunny's favorite vegetable,\" he jokes. And there's a benefit to having carrot muffins on your table of holiday indulgences: \"Everybody loves it, because in many ways you think it's really, really healthy for you,\" Keller says. \"It's a way of being sinful, but also being responsible to some health concerns.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're making carrot muffins at home, the key is to start with the right kind of carrots: the small, skinny ones that come in bunches, rather than the larger \"horse carrots\" you might use for soup. \"We want to have the sweetest possible carrot that we can get,\" Keller says, which means carrots less than an inch in diameter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Look below for Keller's recipes for hot cross buns, marshmallow eggs and carrot muffins. Be sure to set aside ample time for these treats — they are all multiday projects, with some sort of overnight component. After all, you don't cook your way to three Michelin stars by taking shortcuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"buns\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Hot Cross Buns \u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 buns\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Buns\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup (122 grams) dried currants\u003cbr>1/2 cup (61 grams) dried cranberries\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon (3 grams) vanilla paste\u003cbr>Brioche Dough For Hot Cross Buns (recipe follows)\u003cbr>Egg Wash (recipe follows)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Icing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/4 cups (258 grams) powdered sugar\u003cbr>3/8 teaspoon (1 grams) ground cinnamon\u003cbr>3/8 teaspoon (1 grams) ground cardamom\u003cbr>2 1/2 tablespoons (40 grams) whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe was developed by Bouchon Bakery's head baker, Matthew McDonald. The buns are loaded with currants and cranberries and piped with an icing spiced with cinnamon and cardamom. It's the beguiling addition of cardamom to just the right amount of cinnamon in the icing, and the way the spices play off the fruit, that gives these buns their zing. Hot cross buns are an English tradition on Good Friday, but they're so good we hope you'll make them all year round. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need a quarter sheet pan and a disposable pastry bag. Buns baked in a convection oven will have a slightly higher rise and a more even color.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Buns \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the currants and cranberries in a medium bowl and pour 2 cups boiling water over them. Let sit for 5 minutes to plump the fruit, then drain and pat dry with paper towels. Dry the bowl, return the fruit to it, and toss with the vanilla paste. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray a large bowl with nonstick spray. Run a bowl scraper around the sides and down to the bottom of the bowl of brioche dough to release the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface, adding flour only as needed to keep it from sticking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59166\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhotcrossbuns2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhotcrossbuns2-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Thomas Keller demonstrates how to apply homemade icing to his hot cross buns. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59166\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Thomas Keller demonstrates how to apply homemade icing to his hot cross buns. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With your hands, gently pat the dough into a rectangular shape. Pour the currant-cranberry mixture onto the dough and knead it into the dough (which will be sticky) to distribute it evenly. Pat the dough into a rectangle again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stretch the left side of the dough out and fold it over two-thirds of the dough, then stretch and fold it from the right side to the opposite side, as if you were folding a letter. Repeat the process, working from the bottom and then the top. Turn the dough over, lift it up with a bench scraper, and place it seam side down in the prepared bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a clean dish towel and let the dough sit at room temperature for 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Repeat the stretching and folding process, then return the dough to the bowl, seam side down, cover, and let sit for another 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray the quarter sheet pan with nonstick spray. Line the bottom with parchment paper and spray the paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Use the bowl scraper to release the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface. Using a bench scraper, divide the dough into 12 equal portions (78 grams each). Cup your fingers around a portion of dough and, using the palm of your hand, roll it against the work surface to form a ball. Continue to roll until the dough is completely smooth. Repeat with the remaining dough. (When you become proficient at rolling with one hand, you can use both hands and roll 2 portions at a time.) Set the balls on the prepared pan in 3 rows of 4. Brush the tops with egg wash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover the pan with a plastic tub or a cardboard box and let proof for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, until the balls have risen and are touching.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 325 F (convection) or 350 F (standard).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brush the tops of the buns with egg wash again. Bake for 17 to 22 minutes in a convection oven, 25 to 30 minutes in a standard oven, until the tops are a rich golden brown and, when tested with a toothpick, the centers are baked through. Set the pan on a cooling rack and let cool completely. (If freezing, do not ice the buns at this point.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Icing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sift the sugar, cinnamon and cardamom into the bowl of a stand mixer. Fit the mixer with the paddle attachment and mix on the lowest setting for about 15 seconds to distribute the spices evenly. With the mixer running, slowly add the milk. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, increase the speed to low, and mix for 30 seconds to 1 minute, until smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the icing to the pastry bag. Cut off 1/4 inch of the tip. Starting at the left side of the top corner bun, pipe a continuous strip of icing across the center of the first row of 3 buns. Repeat with the remaining 3 rows. Then repeat in the opposite direction, across the 3 rows of 4 buns, working in the opposite direction, to create a cross of frosting on each bun. Serve the whole pan, or cut into individual buns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The buns are best the day they are baked, but they can be stored, before icing, wrapped tightly in a few layers of plastic wrap or in a single layer in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 week (see note on defrosting frozen baked brioche pastries).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on freezing unbaked brioche pastries: Unbaked brioche pastries can be frozen after they are formed, but before they are proofed, wrapped in a few layers of plastic wrap, for up to 1 week. When ready to use, remove from the freezer and proof the dough as directed, keeping in mind that the proofing may take up to 5 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on defrosting frozen baked brioche pastries: Defrost, still in the plastic wrap or in the container, in the refrigerator. Leaving the pastries wrapped or in the container means any condensation will form on the outside, not on the pastries. Place on a sheet pan and refresh in a 325°F oven (standard) for about 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Brioche Dough For Hot Cross Buns\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups plus 2 1/2 tablespoons (372 grams) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>2 3/8 teaspoons (8 grams) instant yeast\u003cbr>3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons (44 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1 1/2 teaspoons (9 grams) fine sea salt\u003cbr>1/2 cup plus 3 1/2 tablespoons (186 grams) eggs\u003cbr>1/4 cup (63 grams) whole milk\u003cbr>5.8 ounces (167 grams) unsalted butter cut into 1/2 -inch cubes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Brioche is a bread that's enriched with butter and eggs. There are different ways of making it, with different proportions of butter. Everything should be at room temperature so the dough comes together beautifully. The dough then gets folded and is fermented in the refrigerator overnight.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To mix the dough, place the flour and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook and mix for about 15 seconds to distribute the yeast evenly. Add all of the remaining dough ingredients, except the butter, and mix on low speed for 4 minutes. Continue to mix on low speed for 30 minutes. (At this point there will be some dough sticking to the sides of the bowl.) Add the butter a few pieces at a time, incorporating each addition before adding the next. Stop and scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl and push the dough off the hook. Continue to mix for 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Egg Wash\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Break 1 or more eggs, as needed, into a small bowl and whip with a fork or small whisk to combine the white(s) and yolk(s) well. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer before using.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note: We use egg washes often. If you want a nice shine on a dough, give the dough two brushings of it: The first brushing acts as a sealer, and the second is more like a glaze. At the bakery, because we egg-wash great volumes of products, we put the egg wash, strained, into a spray gun, paint gun or airbrush. This not only gives us a uniform coating, it's also very gentle on the dough, which is important if it's a proofed and delicate croissant, for example. If you're only egg-washing a small quantity, use a pastry brush.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>Bouchon Bakery\u003cem> by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"eggs\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Marshmallow Eggs\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59161\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 193px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_keller.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_keller-193x290.jpg\" alt=\"Thomas Keller demonstrates how to prepare and open his recipe for his marshmallow eggs at his Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"193\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59161\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thomas Keller demonstrates how to prepare and open his recipe for his marshmallow eggs at his Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 eggs\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marshmallows, just mixed and still warm (recipes follow)\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon (90 grams) white or colored decorating sugar, store-bought or homemade (recipes follow)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>At Easter, the team loves to make marshmallow eggs. When you serve them in all kinds of colors, they're a joy to behold, especially for kids. We make different flavors and colors, coat them in various decorative sugars, and place them in egg cartons. For vanilla eggs, we use plain sugar, but for the raspberry we use our raspberry sugar and for the lemon, our lemon sugar. When people first open the carton, they think it's filled with dyed Easter eggs, not marshmallows. Be sure to buy sturdy plastic eggs to use as molds; the cheaper ones are really flimsy. Note that the marshmallows and decorating sugar should rest overnight before coating the eggs.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need twelve two-piece plastic eggs, a clean egg carton, and a pastry bag with a \u003c/em>\u003cem>1/2-inch plain tip.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the plastic eggs are new, open them, wash them and dry thoroughly. Spray the inside of both halves of each egg with nonstick spray and set them in the egg carton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fill the pastry bag with the warm marshmallow mixture. Holding the tip close to the bottom of an egg half, slowly pull up as you fill the half completely; try not to leave any air pockets. Fill the other half and fit the top and bottom together — there will be some resistance, but they must be secure to form a perfectly shaped egg. Wipe off the excess marshmallow that oozes from the egg with a damp paper towel. Repeat with the remaining eggs. Stand the filled eggs in the egg carton and let them sit at room temperature overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the decorating sugar in a small bowl. Remove the eggs from the molds. Toss the eggs in the sugar and then stand them in the egg carton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If they will be served within a few hours, let the eggs sit at room temperature. For longer storage, place the egg carton in a large covered container for up to 2 weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Vanilla Marshmallows\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 4 dozen 1-inch marshmallows (250 grams/8.8 ounces)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup (5 grams) powdered sugar\u003cbr>1/2 cup (6.4 grams) cornstarch\u003cbr>4 sheets (9.6 grams) silver leaf gelatin\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (87 grams) egg whites\u003cbr>1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise\u003cbr>1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (225 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1/2 cup (112 grams) water\u003cbr>2 1/2 tablespoons (50 grams) light corn syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Marshmallows may seem mysterious and complex, but they're really easy — nothing more than meringue set with gelatin. If you can make a meringue, you can make your own marshmallows. They're playful and fun, and they can be made in different flavors. We make lemon, raspberry and vanilla marshmallows, but you could add jams or pistachio paste for different flavors (add 15 to 20 percent of the weight of the egg whites and sugar).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need an 8-inch-square baking pan, an 8-inch-square piece of acetate, and a Thermapen or other candy thermometer.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the powdered sugar and cornstarch together. Line the baking pan with plastic wrap and sprinkle the plastic wrap generously with the powdered sugar mixture; set the remainder aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the gelatin in a bowl of ice water to soften.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray one side of the piece of acetate with nonstick spray; set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the gelatin from the water and squeeze out excess water. Place the gelatin in a small metal bowl set over a small pot of simmering water and melt it (do not let it simmer), then reduce the heat and keep it warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, place the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add the seeds to the egg whites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the granulated sugar, water and corn syrup in a large saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then simmer for about 5 minutes, until the syrup reaches 250 F/121.1 C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Letting the syrup continue to cook, turn the mixer to medium speed. The goal is to have the whites at medium peaks when the syrup reaches 281 to 284 F/138 to 140 C. Should the whites reach stiff peaks before the syrup reaches the proper temperature, reduce the mixer speed to the lowest setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59165\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoneggs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoneggs.jpg\" alt=\"After the marshmallow has set, open the plastic shell and dip the egg in flavored and colored sugar, as Thomas Keller demonstrates here. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59165\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">After the marshmallow has set, open the plastic shell and dip the egg in flavored and colored sugar, as Thomas Keller demonstrates here. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When the syrup reaches 281 to 284 F/138 to 140 C, remove it from the heat. Turn the mixer to medium speed and slowly add the syrup to the egg whites, pouring it between the side of the bowl and the whisk. Pour in the gelatin, increase the speed to medium-high, and mix for about 5 minutes, until the mixture is thickened, glossy and warm but not hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray a spatula with nonstick spray. Spread the marshmallow evenly in the prepared pan. Top with the acetate, sprayed side down, and gently press it against the marshmallow to make the top perfectly smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Set a piece of parchment paper larger than the marshmallow on a large cutting board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the sheet of acetate. Coat the top of the marshmallow with some of the reserved powdered sugar mixture. Flip the marshmallow onto the parchment paper, remove the plastic wrap, and sprinkle with more of the powdered sugar mixture as necessary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It can be difficult to cut marshmallows evenly. Spray a large chef's knife with nonstick spray and trim the sides of the marshmallow square, then cut into 1-inch cubes (or other shapes), using a ruler as a guide. Clean and respray the knife before each cut. If the marshmallows are sticky when you separate them, dust them lightly with additional powdered sugar mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The marshmallows can be stored in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Raspberry Marshmallows\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Omit the vanilla bean. If desired, add 2 drops red food coloring, preferably Chefmaster Red Red, to the warm marshmallow mixture and mix just to combine. Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and gently whisk in 12 grams/2 tablespoons raspberry powder. Spread the marshmallow in the pan and proceed as directed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Lemon Marshmallows\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Omit the vanilla bean. If desired, add 6 drops yellow food coloring, preferably Chefmaster Lemon Yellow, to the warm marshmallow mixture and mix just to combine. Add the grated zest of 2 lemons (12 grams/2 tablespoons) and mix to combine, then spread the marshmallow in the pan and proceed as directed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Colored Decorating Sugar\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Raspberry Sugar\u003cem>\u003cbr>\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons (100 grams) large-crystal sparkling sugar\u003cbr>6 drops diluted citric acid (see Note)\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoons (1 gram) dehydrated raspberry powder, or as needed\u003cbr>Powdered oil-soluble red food coloring\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Lemon Sugar\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons (100 grams) large-crystal sparkling sugar\u003cbr>6 drops diluted citric acid (see Note)\u003cbr>3/4 teaspoons (1.5 grams) grated zest of 1/2 lemon (use a rasp grater)\u003cbr>Powdered oil-soluble yellow food coloring\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Don't be tempted to use liquid food coloring; it won't work here. If you'd like, wear a pair of plastic gloves to avoid staining your hands.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the sugar in a small bowl. Stir in the citric acid, raspberry powder or lemon zest, and just the amount of food coloring that fits on the tip of a small paring knife (less than a pinch), then use your hands to work the mixture together. If you'd like, add a little additional powder and/or food coloring. Spread the sugar on a baking sheet and let it dry overnight at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note: To make diluted citric acid, combine 3/8 teaspoon (2 grams) citric acid and 3/4 teaspoon (2 grams) water in a small cup and stir to dissolve the citric acid.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>Bouchon Bakery\u003cem> by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"muffins\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Carrot Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59164\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoncarrot-muffins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoncarrot-muffins-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"The Bouchon Bakery cookbook highlights the streusel topping on Keller's carrot muffin Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59164\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Bouchon Bakery cookbook highlights the streusel topping on Keller's carrot muffin Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 muffins\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Batter\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 cups plus 2 teaspoons (180 grams) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>1/2 plus 1/8 teaspoon (3.11 grams) baking soda\u003cbr>1/4 teaspoon (1 grams) baking powder\u003cbr>3/4 plus 1/8 teaspoon (2.3 grams) ground cinnamon\u003cbr>1/2 plus 1/8 teaspoon (2 grams) kosher salt\u003cbr>1 cup plus 2 teaspoons (207 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (142 grams) canola oil\u003cbr>1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise\u003cbr>1/3 cup (80 grams) eggs\u003cbr>1 3/4 cups (212 grams) shredded carrots\u003cbr>Generous 1 1/4 cups (180 grams) Oat Streusel Topping (recipe follows)\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need a 6-cup jumbo muffin pan and muffin papers.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is a good basic carrot muffin, and we sprinkle it with a great oat streusel for even more flavor and texture.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Carrots — and other vegetables, such as zucchini — add moisture to muffin and cake batters. Carrots are so plentiful that we often take them for granted, but all carrots are not alike. I hope you'll pay a little extra for bunch carrots, carrots still with their tops, rather than the ones in plastic bags. The quality makes a big difference when they're a major part of the recipe.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe uses vegetable oil, not butter, and if you omit the streusel, it is dairy free.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the flour in a medium bowl. Sift in the baking soda, baking powder and cinnamon. Add the salt and whisk together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the sugar and oil in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and mix on low speed for about 1 minute. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the sugar mixture, and mix for 30 seconds to distribute the seeds evenly. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, add the eggs, and mix on low speed for about 1 minute, until just incorporated. Add the dry ingredients in 2 additions, mixing on low speed for 15 seconds after each, or until just combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and scrape the bottom of the bowl to incorporate any dry ingredients that may have settled there. Stir in the carrots. Transfer the batter to a covered container and refrigerate overnight, or for up to 36 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To bake the muffins: Preheat the oven to 425 F (standard). Line the muffin pan with the muffin papers and spray the papers with nonstick spray.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spoon the batter evenly into the papers, stopping 3/8 inch from the top (135 grams each). Sprinkle 30 grams/3 tablespoons of the streusel on top of each muffin and press gently into the batter. Place the pan in the oven, lower the oven temperature to 325 F, and bake for 40 to 43 minutes, or until the muffins are golden brown and a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Set the pan on a cooling rack and cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The muffins are best the day they are baked, but they can be wrapped individually in a few layers of plastic wrap or stored in a single layer in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Oat Streusel Topping\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 cups (544 grams)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup (142 grams) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>1 1/4 cups plus 1 tablespoon (107 grams) old-fashioned oats\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 3 1/2 tablespoons (106 grams) toasted wheat germ\u003cbr>1/2 cup plus 2 1/2 teaspoons (lightly packed) (50 grams) light brown sugar\u003cbr>2 tablespoons plus 1 1/4 teaspoons (29 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon (1.2 grams) ground cinnamon\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon (0.5 gram) freshly grated nutmeg\u003cbr>1/8 teaspoon (0.4 gram) kosher salt\u003cbr>1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise\u003cbr>4 ounces (113 grams) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/4 -inch pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine all of the ingredients except the vanilla bean and butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, and mix on low speed to combine. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the dry mixture, and mix until evenly distributed. Toss in the butter and mix for about 1 minute, or until the butter is incorporated, with no large chunks remaining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer to a covered container or a resealable plastic bag. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to 2 days, or freeze for up to 1 month. Use the streusel while it is cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on mixing muffin batter: When mixing a muffin batter, it is important not to overwhip the eggs, as that could cause the muffins to expand too much during baking and then deflate. The mixture may look broken after you whip in the eggs, but that is fine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on defrosting frozen baked muffins: Defrost the muffins still in the container so any condensation will form on the outside of the container, and not on the muffins. Place on a sheet pan and refresh in a 325 F oven (standard) for about 5 minutes, if desired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>Bouchon Bakery\u003cem> by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The renowned chef may be famous for his Michelin-star-winning restaurants, but he also runs a string of gourmet bakeries. He shares some favorite confections for Easter, with recipes for hot cross buns, marshmallow eggs and carrot muffins.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59160\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_eggs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_eggs.jpg\" alt=\"Marshmallow eggs made with homemade flavored sugar are a colorful treat at Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif. To make them, pipe homemade marshmallow into hollow plastic eggs. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"351\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59160\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marshmallow eggs made with homemade flavored sugar are a colorful treat at Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif. To make them, pipe homemade marshmallow into hollow plastic eggs. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/29/175599684/homemade-peeps-and-more-easter-treats-a-la-thomas-keller\">Morning Edition\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Camila Domonoske, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/29/175599684/homemade-peeps-and-more-easter-treats-a-la-thomas-keller\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/29/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/175620951/bouchon-bakery\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon-bakery-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"Bouchon Bakery by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-59162\">\u003c/a>After 40 long days of Lenten abstention, Easter is a time for indulgence. And for those of us who don't observe Lent — well, who can resist all those chocolate bunnies? It's a time for sweets, with or without an excuse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you're looking for Easter indulgences that are a little more refined than Peeps and jelly beans,\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong> take a cue from renowned chef Thomas Keller, whose \u003ca href=\"http://bouchonbistro.com/\">Bouchon\u003c/a> restaurants are as famous for their baked goods as they are for their bistro fare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Earlier this week, NPR's Renee Montagne visited the kitchen of the Bouchon restaurant and bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif., for a taste of some of Keller's takes on classic Easter sweets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of us can't sneak a taste of Keller's hot cross bun frosting, like Montagne did, but thanks to the cookbook \u003cem>Bouchon Bakery\u003c/em>, which Keller co-authored, we can re-create some of those treats at home. Be warned, though: Keller's standards are exacting, and reproducing some of his items requires extra prep work — and maybe some shopping for new kitchen tools.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For precision baking, Keller says a scale is crucial; flour can easily shift in density, so measuring in cups is dangerously inaccurate, he argues.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Throw away your measuring cups,\" Keller tells Montagne. \"Buy yourself a gram scale instead.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other items you might need that may not be kitchen staples, like acetate sheets and powdered food coloring, make cooking easier and cleanup far less stressful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keller led NPR through the process of making three Easter treats from his kitchen. Recipes for all three can be found farther down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59159\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhot-cross-buns.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhot-cross-buns-290x217.jpg\" alt='The Bouchon Bakery cookbook demonstrates how to apply the frosting \"cross\" on a pan of hot cross buns. Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books' width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59159\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Bouchon Bakery cookbook demonstrates how to apply the frosting \"cross\" on a pan of hot cross buns.\u003cbr> Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hot Cross Buns\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"#buns\">Hot cross buns\u003c/a> date back hundreds of years and have traditionally been made on Good Friday. These dough rolls marked with a cross had a religious component, certainly, but they're also symbolic of another kind of devotion, Keller explains. \"Eating the hot cross bun with your friend meant that you'd be friends for life, so it really signified that kind of friendship in a positive way,\" he says. \"And then there's another myth: If you kept a bun for an entire year, it would not go moldy, and if you became sick and you ate it, it would cure whatever sickness you have.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bouchon's version is a rich brioche roll studded with dried currants and cranberries. Pastry chefs top the brioche with a cross of white confectioners' sugar frosting, spiced with cinnamon and cardamom. Myths aside, don't let them sit for a year: They're best eaten the same day they're baked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Marshmallow Eggs\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keller has fond memories of that springtime staple, Peeps: \"They're very cute,\" he says, \"and, you know, they remind us of when we were kids. I mean, we ate those all the time.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bouchon's egg-shaped, homemade \u003ca href=\"#eggs\">marshmallows\u003c/a> turn that childhood memory into a grown-up treat. The marshmallow imparts a richness that can come as a surprise — Montagne describes it as \"almost like thick cream.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59163\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon-carrotmuffins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon-carrotmuffins-290x216.jpg\" alt=\"Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery makes a variety of carrot-themed desserts — carrot cake, carrot muffins and carrot cupcakes — to celebrate Eas Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"216\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59163\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery makes a variety of carrot-themed desserts — carrot cake, carrot muffins and carrot cupcakes — to celebrate Eas Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Carrot Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The last recipe is a little less obviously Easter-related, but Keller says \u003ca href=\"#muffins\">carrot muffins\u003c/a> are a holiday staple. \"Bunnies eat carrots. We've got to have carrots involved in Easter, because that's Bugs Bunny's favorite vegetable,\" he jokes. And there's a benefit to having carrot muffins on your table of holiday indulgences: \"Everybody loves it, because in many ways you think it's really, really healthy for you,\" Keller says. \"It's a way of being sinful, but also being responsible to some health concerns.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're making carrot muffins at home, the key is to start with the right kind of carrots: the small, skinny ones that come in bunches, rather than the larger \"horse carrots\" you might use for soup. \"We want to have the sweetest possible carrot that we can get,\" Keller says, which means carrots less than an inch in diameter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Look below for Keller's recipes for hot cross buns, marshmallow eggs and carrot muffins. Be sure to set aside ample time for these treats — they are all multiday projects, with some sort of overnight component. After all, you don't cook your way to three Michelin stars by taking shortcuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"buns\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Hot Cross Buns \u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 buns\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Buns\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup (122 grams) dried currants\u003cbr>1/2 cup (61 grams) dried cranberries\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon (3 grams) vanilla paste\u003cbr>Brioche Dough For Hot Cross Buns (recipe follows)\u003cbr>Egg Wash (recipe follows)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Icing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/4 cups (258 grams) powdered sugar\u003cbr>3/8 teaspoon (1 grams) ground cinnamon\u003cbr>3/8 teaspoon (1 grams) ground cardamom\u003cbr>2 1/2 tablespoons (40 grams) whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe was developed by Bouchon Bakery's head baker, Matthew McDonald. The buns are loaded with currants and cranberries and piped with an icing spiced with cinnamon and cardamom. It's the beguiling addition of cardamom to just the right amount of cinnamon in the icing, and the way the spices play off the fruit, that gives these buns their zing. Hot cross buns are an English tradition on Good Friday, but they're so good we hope you'll make them all year round. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need a quarter sheet pan and a disposable pastry bag. Buns baked in a convection oven will have a slightly higher rise and a more even color.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Buns \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the currants and cranberries in a medium bowl and pour 2 cups boiling water over them. Let sit for 5 minutes to plump the fruit, then drain and pat dry with paper towels. Dry the bowl, return the fruit to it, and toss with the vanilla paste. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray a large bowl with nonstick spray. Run a bowl scraper around the sides and down to the bottom of the bowl of brioche dough to release the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface, adding flour only as needed to keep it from sticking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59166\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhotcrossbuns2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhotcrossbuns2-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Thomas Keller demonstrates how to apply homemade icing to his hot cross buns. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59166\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Thomas Keller demonstrates how to apply homemade icing to his hot cross buns. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With your hands, gently pat the dough into a rectangular shape. Pour the currant-cranberry mixture onto the dough and knead it into the dough (which will be sticky) to distribute it evenly. Pat the dough into a rectangle again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stretch the left side of the dough out and fold it over two-thirds of the dough, then stretch and fold it from the right side to the opposite side, as if you were folding a letter. Repeat the process, working from the bottom and then the top. Turn the dough over, lift it up with a bench scraper, and place it seam side down in the prepared bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a clean dish towel and let the dough sit at room temperature for 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Repeat the stretching and folding process, then return the dough to the bowl, seam side down, cover, and let sit for another 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray the quarter sheet pan with nonstick spray. Line the bottom with parchment paper and spray the paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Use the bowl scraper to release the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface. Using a bench scraper, divide the dough into 12 equal portions (78 grams each). Cup your fingers around a portion of dough and, using the palm of your hand, roll it against the work surface to form a ball. Continue to roll until the dough is completely smooth. Repeat with the remaining dough. (When you become proficient at rolling with one hand, you can use both hands and roll 2 portions at a time.) Set the balls on the prepared pan in 3 rows of 4. Brush the tops with egg wash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover the pan with a plastic tub or a cardboard box and let proof for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, until the balls have risen and are touching.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 325 F (convection) or 350 F (standard).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brush the tops of the buns with egg wash again. Bake for 17 to 22 minutes in a convection oven, 25 to 30 minutes in a standard oven, until the tops are a rich golden brown and, when tested with a toothpick, the centers are baked through. Set the pan on a cooling rack and let cool completely. (If freezing, do not ice the buns at this point.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Icing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sift the sugar, cinnamon and cardamom into the bowl of a stand mixer. Fit the mixer with the paddle attachment and mix on the lowest setting for about 15 seconds to distribute the spices evenly. With the mixer running, slowly add the milk. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, increase the speed to low, and mix for 30 seconds to 1 minute, until smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the icing to the pastry bag. Cut off 1/4 inch of the tip. Starting at the left side of the top corner bun, pipe a continuous strip of icing across the center of the first row of 3 buns. Repeat with the remaining 3 rows. Then repeat in the opposite direction, across the 3 rows of 4 buns, working in the opposite direction, to create a cross of frosting on each bun. Serve the whole pan, or cut into individual buns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The buns are best the day they are baked, but they can be stored, before icing, wrapped tightly in a few layers of plastic wrap or in a single layer in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 week (see note on defrosting frozen baked brioche pastries).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on freezing unbaked brioche pastries: Unbaked brioche pastries can be frozen after they are formed, but before they are proofed, wrapped in a few layers of plastic wrap, for up to 1 week. When ready to use, remove from the freezer and proof the dough as directed, keeping in mind that the proofing may take up to 5 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on defrosting frozen baked brioche pastries: Defrost, still in the plastic wrap or in the container, in the refrigerator. Leaving the pastries wrapped or in the container means any condensation will form on the outside, not on the pastries. Place on a sheet pan and refresh in a 325°F oven (standard) for about 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Brioche Dough For Hot Cross Buns\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups plus 2 1/2 tablespoons (372 grams) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>2 3/8 teaspoons (8 grams) instant yeast\u003cbr>3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons (44 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1 1/2 teaspoons (9 grams) fine sea salt\u003cbr>1/2 cup plus 3 1/2 tablespoons (186 grams) eggs\u003cbr>1/4 cup (63 grams) whole milk\u003cbr>5.8 ounces (167 grams) unsalted butter cut into 1/2 -inch cubes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Brioche is a bread that's enriched with butter and eggs. There are different ways of making it, with different proportions of butter. Everything should be at room temperature so the dough comes together beautifully. The dough then gets folded and is fermented in the refrigerator overnight.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To mix the dough, place the flour and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook and mix for about 15 seconds to distribute the yeast evenly. Add all of the remaining dough ingredients, except the butter, and mix on low speed for 4 minutes. Continue to mix on low speed for 30 minutes. (At this point there will be some dough sticking to the sides of the bowl.) Add the butter a few pieces at a time, incorporating each addition before adding the next. Stop and scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl and push the dough off the hook. Continue to mix for 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Egg Wash\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Break 1 or more eggs, as needed, into a small bowl and whip with a fork or small whisk to combine the white(s) and yolk(s) well. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer before using.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note: We use egg washes often. If you want a nice shine on a dough, give the dough two brushings of it: The first brushing acts as a sealer, and the second is more like a glaze. At the bakery, because we egg-wash great volumes of products, we put the egg wash, strained, into a spray gun, paint gun or airbrush. This not only gives us a uniform coating, it's also very gentle on the dough, which is important if it's a proofed and delicate croissant, for example. If you're only egg-washing a small quantity, use a pastry brush.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>Bouchon Bakery\u003cem> by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"eggs\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Marshmallow Eggs\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59161\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 193px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_keller.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_keller-193x290.jpg\" alt=\"Thomas Keller demonstrates how to prepare and open his recipe for his marshmallow eggs at his Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"193\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59161\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thomas Keller demonstrates how to prepare and open his recipe for his marshmallow eggs at his Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 eggs\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marshmallows, just mixed and still warm (recipes follow)\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon (90 grams) white or colored decorating sugar, store-bought or homemade (recipes follow)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>At Easter, the team loves to make marshmallow eggs. When you serve them in all kinds of colors, they're a joy to behold, especially for kids. We make different flavors and colors, coat them in various decorative sugars, and place them in egg cartons. For vanilla eggs, we use plain sugar, but for the raspberry we use our raspberry sugar and for the lemon, our lemon sugar. When people first open the carton, they think it's filled with dyed Easter eggs, not marshmallows. Be sure to buy sturdy plastic eggs to use as molds; the cheaper ones are really flimsy. Note that the marshmallows and decorating sugar should rest overnight before coating the eggs.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need twelve two-piece plastic eggs, a clean egg carton, and a pastry bag with a \u003c/em>\u003cem>1/2-inch plain tip.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the plastic eggs are new, open them, wash them and dry thoroughly. Spray the inside of both halves of each egg with nonstick spray and set them in the egg carton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fill the pastry bag with the warm marshmallow mixture. Holding the tip close to the bottom of an egg half, slowly pull up as you fill the half completely; try not to leave any air pockets. Fill the other half and fit the top and bottom together — there will be some resistance, but they must be secure to form a perfectly shaped egg. Wipe off the excess marshmallow that oozes from the egg with a damp paper towel. Repeat with the remaining eggs. Stand the filled eggs in the egg carton and let them sit at room temperature overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the decorating sugar in a small bowl. Remove the eggs from the molds. Toss the eggs in the sugar and then stand them in the egg carton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If they will be served within a few hours, let the eggs sit at room temperature. For longer storage, place the egg carton in a large covered container for up to 2 weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Vanilla Marshmallows\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 4 dozen 1-inch marshmallows (250 grams/8.8 ounces)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup (5 grams) powdered sugar\u003cbr>1/2 cup (6.4 grams) cornstarch\u003cbr>4 sheets (9.6 grams) silver leaf gelatin\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (87 grams) egg whites\u003cbr>1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise\u003cbr>1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (225 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1/2 cup (112 grams) water\u003cbr>2 1/2 tablespoons (50 grams) light corn syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Marshmallows may seem mysterious and complex, but they're really easy — nothing more than meringue set with gelatin. If you can make a meringue, you can make your own marshmallows. They're playful and fun, and they can be made in different flavors. We make lemon, raspberry and vanilla marshmallows, but you could add jams or pistachio paste for different flavors (add 15 to 20 percent of the weight of the egg whites and sugar).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need an 8-inch-square baking pan, an 8-inch-square piece of acetate, and a Thermapen or other candy thermometer.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the powdered sugar and cornstarch together. Line the baking pan with plastic wrap and sprinkle the plastic wrap generously with the powdered sugar mixture; set the remainder aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the gelatin in a bowl of ice water to soften.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray one side of the piece of acetate with nonstick spray; set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the gelatin from the water and squeeze out excess water. Place the gelatin in a small metal bowl set over a small pot of simmering water and melt it (do not let it simmer), then reduce the heat and keep it warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, place the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add the seeds to the egg whites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the granulated sugar, water and corn syrup in a large saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then simmer for about 5 minutes, until the syrup reaches 250 F/121.1 C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Letting the syrup continue to cook, turn the mixer to medium speed. The goal is to have the whites at medium peaks when the syrup reaches 281 to 284 F/138 to 140 C. Should the whites reach stiff peaks before the syrup reaches the proper temperature, reduce the mixer speed to the lowest setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59165\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoneggs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoneggs.jpg\" alt=\"After the marshmallow has set, open the plastic shell and dip the egg in flavored and colored sugar, as Thomas Keller demonstrates here. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59165\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">After the marshmallow has set, open the plastic shell and dip the egg in flavored and colored sugar, as Thomas Keller demonstrates here. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When the syrup reaches 281 to 284 F/138 to 140 C, remove it from the heat. Turn the mixer to medium speed and slowly add the syrup to the egg whites, pouring it between the side of the bowl and the whisk. Pour in the gelatin, increase the speed to medium-high, and mix for about 5 minutes, until the mixture is thickened, glossy and warm but not hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray a spatula with nonstick spray. Spread the marshmallow evenly in the prepared pan. Top with the acetate, sprayed side down, and gently press it against the marshmallow to make the top perfectly smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Set a piece of parchment paper larger than the marshmallow on a large cutting board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the sheet of acetate. Coat the top of the marshmallow with some of the reserved powdered sugar mixture. Flip the marshmallow onto the parchment paper, remove the plastic wrap, and sprinkle with more of the powdered sugar mixture as necessary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It can be difficult to cut marshmallows evenly. Spray a large chef's knife with nonstick spray and trim the sides of the marshmallow square, then cut into 1-inch cubes (or other shapes), using a ruler as a guide. Clean and respray the knife before each cut. If the marshmallows are sticky when you separate them, dust them lightly with additional powdered sugar mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The marshmallows can be stored in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Raspberry Marshmallows\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Omit the vanilla bean. If desired, add 2 drops red food coloring, preferably Chefmaster Red Red, to the warm marshmallow mixture and mix just to combine. Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and gently whisk in 12 grams/2 tablespoons raspberry powder. Spread the marshmallow in the pan and proceed as directed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Lemon Marshmallows\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Omit the vanilla bean. If desired, add 6 drops yellow food coloring, preferably Chefmaster Lemon Yellow, to the warm marshmallow mixture and mix just to combine. Add the grated zest of 2 lemons (12 grams/2 tablespoons) and mix to combine, then spread the marshmallow in the pan and proceed as directed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Colored Decorating Sugar\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Raspberry Sugar\u003cem>\u003cbr>\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons (100 grams) large-crystal sparkling sugar\u003cbr>6 drops diluted citric acid (see Note)\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoons (1 gram) dehydrated raspberry powder, or as needed\u003cbr>Powdered oil-soluble red food coloring\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Lemon Sugar\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons (100 grams) large-crystal sparkling sugar\u003cbr>6 drops diluted citric acid (see Note)\u003cbr>3/4 teaspoons (1.5 grams) grated zest of 1/2 lemon (use a rasp grater)\u003cbr>Powdered oil-soluble yellow food coloring\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Don't be tempted to use liquid food coloring; it won't work here. If you'd like, wear a pair of plastic gloves to avoid staining your hands.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the sugar in a small bowl. Stir in the citric acid, raspberry powder or lemon zest, and just the amount of food coloring that fits on the tip of a small paring knife (less than a pinch), then use your hands to work the mixture together. If you'd like, add a little additional powder and/or food coloring. Spread the sugar on a baking sheet and let it dry overnight at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note: To make diluted citric acid, combine 3/8 teaspoon (2 grams) citric acid and 3/4 teaspoon (2 grams) water in a small cup and stir to dissolve the citric acid.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>Bouchon Bakery\u003cem> by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"muffins\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Carrot Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59164\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoncarrot-muffins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoncarrot-muffins-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"The Bouchon Bakery cookbook highlights the streusel topping on Keller's carrot muffin Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59164\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Bouchon Bakery cookbook highlights the streusel topping on Keller's carrot muffin Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 muffins\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Batter\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 cups plus 2 teaspoons (180 grams) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>1/2 plus 1/8 teaspoon (3.11 grams) baking soda\u003cbr>1/4 teaspoon (1 grams) baking powder\u003cbr>3/4 plus 1/8 teaspoon (2.3 grams) ground cinnamon\u003cbr>1/2 plus 1/8 teaspoon (2 grams) kosher salt\u003cbr>1 cup plus 2 teaspoons (207 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (142 grams) canola oil\u003cbr>1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise\u003cbr>1/3 cup (80 grams) eggs\u003cbr>1 3/4 cups (212 grams) shredded carrots\u003cbr>Generous 1 1/4 cups (180 grams) Oat Streusel Topping (recipe follows)\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need a 6-cup jumbo muffin pan and muffin papers.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is a good basic carrot muffin, and we sprinkle it with a great oat streusel for even more flavor and texture.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Carrots — and other vegetables, such as zucchini — add moisture to muffin and cake batters. Carrots are so plentiful that we often take them for granted, but all carrots are not alike. I hope you'll pay a little extra for bunch carrots, carrots still with their tops, rather than the ones in plastic bags. The quality makes a big difference when they're a major part of the recipe.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe uses vegetable oil, not butter, and if you omit the streusel, it is dairy free.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the flour in a medium bowl. Sift in the baking soda, baking powder and cinnamon. Add the salt and whisk together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the sugar and oil in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and mix on low speed for about 1 minute. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the sugar mixture, and mix for 30 seconds to distribute the seeds evenly. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, add the eggs, and mix on low speed for about 1 minute, until just incorporated. Add the dry ingredients in 2 additions, mixing on low speed for 15 seconds after each, or until just combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and scrape the bottom of the bowl to incorporate any dry ingredients that may have settled there. Stir in the carrots. Transfer the batter to a covered container and refrigerate overnight, or for up to 36 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To bake the muffins: Preheat the oven to 425 F (standard). Line the muffin pan with the muffin papers and spray the papers with nonstick spray.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spoon the batter evenly into the papers, stopping 3/8 inch from the top (135 grams each). Sprinkle 30 grams/3 tablespoons of the streusel on top of each muffin and press gently into the batter. Place the pan in the oven, lower the oven temperature to 325 F, and bake for 40 to 43 minutes, or until the muffins are golden brown and a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Set the pan on a cooling rack and cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The muffins are best the day they are baked, but they can be wrapped individually in a few layers of plastic wrap or stored in a single layer in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Oat Streusel Topping\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 cups (544 grams)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup (142 grams) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>1 1/4 cups plus 1 tablespoon (107 grams) old-fashioned oats\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 3 1/2 tablespoons (106 grams) toasted wheat germ\u003cbr>1/2 cup plus 2 1/2 teaspoons (lightly packed) (50 grams) light brown sugar\u003cbr>2 tablespoons plus 1 1/4 teaspoons (29 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon (1.2 grams) ground cinnamon\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon (0.5 gram) freshly grated nutmeg\u003cbr>1/8 teaspoon (0.4 gram) kosher salt\u003cbr>1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise\u003cbr>4 ounces (113 grams) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/4 -inch pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine all of the ingredients except the vanilla bean and butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, and mix on low speed to combine. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the dry mixture, and mix until evenly distributed. Toss in the butter and mix for about 1 minute, or until the butter is incorporated, with no large chunks remaining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer to a covered container or a resealable plastic bag. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to 2 days, or freeze for up to 1 month. Use the streusel while it is cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on mixing muffin batter: When mixing a muffin batter, it is important not to overwhip the eggs, as that could cause the muffins to expand too much during baking and then deflate. The mixture may look broken after you whip in the eggs, but that is fine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on defrosting frozen baked muffins: Defrost the muffins still in the container so any condensation will form on the outside of the container, and not on the muffins. Place on a sheet pan and refresh in a 325 F oven (standard) for about 5 minutes, if desired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>Bouchon Bakery\u003cem> by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Chocolatiers Lindt Loses Final Appeal To Trademark Golden Easter Bunnies",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59048\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/chocolatebunnies.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/chocolatebunnies-1024x695.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Easter bunnies by Swiss company Lindt, left, and Austrain company Hauswirth, which agreed to stop making chocolate Easter bunnies that look like those made by Lindt Photo: Heinz-Peter Bader /Reuters /Landov\" width=\"1024\" height=\"695\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59048\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate Easter bunnies by Swiss company Lindt, left, and Austrain company Hauswirth, which agreed to stop making chocolate Easter bunnies that look like those made by Lindt Photo: Heinz-Peter Bader /Reuters /Landov\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Eyder Peralta, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thetwo-way/2013/03/28/175595080/chocolatiers-lindt-loses-final-appeal-to-trademark-golden-easter-bunnies\">The Two-Way at NPR\u003c/a> (3/28/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After 12 years, a federal court in Germany has settled an epic Easter battle: It ruled Lindt & Spruengli, the Swiss chocolatier, could not trademark its gold-foil wrapped easter bunny chocolates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dw.de/chocolate-firm-lindt-loses-case-over-easter-bunny-trademark/a-16706486\">Germany's international broadcaster Deutsche Welle reports\u003c/a>:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"The case in Germany's highest administrative court was the fourth and final one Lindt lost in its attempt to win copyright protection of its Easter bunny model. The court had to answer whether it was legally possible to register a product, which was in general use for decades, as a trademark, said Daniel Terheggen, Riegelein's lawyer from Lindner & Blaumeier Attorneys.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The ruling has set a legal precedent in copyright law with which we are very satisfied,\" he added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Confiserie Riegelein was the only defendant left to face up to Lindt in the courts, after a number of smaller chocolate-making firms succumbed to the pressure exerted by the Swiss giant.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Of course Riegelein was very happy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The sitting gold-wrapped bunny has been a firm part of our offering for at least a half century,\" Peter Riegelein said, \u003ca href=\"http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2013/mar/28/lindt-loses-easter-bunny-battle\">according to \u003cem>The Guardian\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. \"Now it is finally clear that it can stay as it is.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lindt hinted the fight was not over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We will continue to defend our Lindt gold bunny in the future whenever necessary,\" the company said in a statement. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "For 12 years Lindt had fought this in courts; most small chocolatiers gave in, but Confiserie Riegelein challenged Lindt and won the right to keep making its own chocolate bunnies.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59048\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/chocolatebunnies.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/chocolatebunnies-1024x695.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Easter bunnies by Swiss company Lindt, left, and Austrain company Hauswirth, which agreed to stop making chocolate Easter bunnies that look like those made by Lindt Photo: Heinz-Peter Bader /Reuters /Landov\" width=\"1024\" height=\"695\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59048\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate Easter bunnies by Swiss company Lindt, left, and Austrain company Hauswirth, which agreed to stop making chocolate Easter bunnies that look like those made by Lindt Photo: Heinz-Peter Bader /Reuters /Landov\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Eyder Peralta, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thetwo-way/2013/03/28/175595080/chocolatiers-lindt-loses-final-appeal-to-trademark-golden-easter-bunnies\">The Two-Way at NPR\u003c/a> (3/28/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After 12 years, a federal court in Germany has settled an epic Easter battle: It ruled Lindt & Spruengli, the Swiss chocolatier, could not trademark its gold-foil wrapped easter bunny chocolates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dw.de/chocolate-firm-lindt-loses-case-over-easter-bunny-trademark/a-16706486\">Germany's international broadcaster Deutsche Welle reports\u003c/a>:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"The case in Germany's highest administrative court was the fourth and final one Lindt lost in its attempt to win copyright protection of its Easter bunny model. The court had to answer whether it was legally possible to register a product, which was in general use for decades, as a trademark, said Daniel Terheggen, Riegelein's lawyer from Lindner & Blaumeier Attorneys.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The ruling has set a legal precedent in copyright law with which we are very satisfied,\" he added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Confiserie Riegelein was the only defendant left to face up to Lindt in the courts, after a number of smaller chocolate-making firms succumbed to the pressure exerted by the Swiss giant.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Of course Riegelein was very happy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The sitting gold-wrapped bunny has been a firm part of our offering for at least a half century,\" Peter Riegelein said, \u003ca href=\"http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2013/mar/28/lindt-loses-easter-bunny-battle\">according to \u003cem>The Guardian\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. \"Now it is finally clear that it can stay as it is.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lindt hinted the fight was not over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We will continue to defend our Lindt gold bunny in the future whenever necessary,\" the company said in a statement. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House that Herring Built",
"title": "Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House that Herring Built",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-cover600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-cover600.jpg\" alt=\"Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes From The House That Herring Built by Mark Russ Federman\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-58235\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Overwhelming\" and \"unexpected\" is how smoked-fishmonger turned writer Mark Russ Federman describes the reaction to his recently published memoir, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0805242945/kqedorg-20\">Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House That Herring Built\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57757\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"Russ & Daughters pink-and-green neon sign. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-57757\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Russ & Daughters pink-and-green neon sign. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com/\">Russ & Daughters\u003c/a>, for those of you who weren't lucky enough to grow up within Sunday-morning driving distance of its pink-and-green neon sign on the Lower East Side, is an \"appetizing\" store, a family business nearly 100 years old, still thriving under the ownership of the great-granddaughter and great-grandnephew of the original founder, Joel Russ. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wait, what's an \"appetizing\" store, you ask? Let's start with the smell. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Push open the door at Russ & Daughters and the first thing to hit you is the store's unique aroma. It's a combination of smokiness from whitefish, salmon, sturgeon,and sable; the brininess of herrings and pickles; the yeastiness of freshly baked bagels and bialys, and the sweetness of rugelach, babka, chocolates, and halvah. How I wish I could bottle that singular scent--smoky, briny, yeasty and sweet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Russ Federman's description above shows, the \"appetizing\" store is a particularly Jewish-American category of business, specializing in smoked fish and dairy products. It arose out of kosher dietary laws, which forbid the mixing of milk and meat at the same meal or, indeed, in the same shop. So, when it came to prepared foods, the delicatessen, or deli, sold pastrami, corned beef, tongue, salami, chopped liver, chicken soup, and more, while the \"appetizing\" store stocked smoked and cured fish in all its forms, from pickled \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/default/article/Herring-on-menus-of-Bay-Area-restaurants-4283165.php\"> herring\u003c/a> to smoked salmon, along with the dairy to serve with it: cheese and cream cheese, plus pickles, sauerkraut, and often bagels, bialys, candies, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/26/grandmas-rugelach\">rugelach\u003c/a>, chocolates, and dried fruit, too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58237\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Tabletop600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Tabletop600.jpg\" alt=\"A Typical Appetizing Spread, Ready for a Family Celebration. Photo by Matthew Hranek\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58237\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Typical Appetizing Spread, Ready for a Family Celebration.\u003cbr>Photo by Matthew Hranek\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Appetizing stores--and Jewish bakeries, delis, restaurants, shops, and Yiddish theaters--flourished in New York City’s Lower East Side, where Jews from Russia, Poland, Hungary, and the rest of Central and Eastern Europe came fleeing persecution, seeking religious freedom or just looking, like so many other immigrants then and now, for economic opportunity and a better life for themselves and their children. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story that Russ Federman tells, of how his grandfather Joel Russ made it to the Lower East Side from a tiny village in Poland, and, with business savvy and a whole lot of grinding, day in-day out hard work, managed to go from selling herring from a barrel on the street to launching a store that remains a beloved New York landmark some 100 years later, is a classic American immigrant’s tale. But it also brings to life the lost Jewish world of the Lower East Side. My great-grandfather, also born in Poland, was a baker in the neighborhood; my grandmother, who came here as a child in the early 1900s, had stories of delivering hot rolls in a horse-drawn cart through the pushcarts crowding the tenement-lined streets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That Joel Russ's three daughters Anne, Hattie, and Ida would work in the family business went without saying. As Russ Federman tells it, the family motto became \u003cem>\"Vi nempt men parnosa?\"\u003c/em> a Yiddish phrase he translates as \"From where do we take our living?\" The family's living came from the shop, and so the family, all of it, worked hard to make the shop successful. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Joel Russ also recognized that his three smiling, pretty daughters were a draw that lured customers as much as a good price on schmaltz herring, and he turned the name of the business into Russ & Daughters. Son-in-laws were set up behind the counter, too, but the third generation, including Mark, weren't supposed to be shopkeepers. For them, the goal was college and a profession--a doctor, a lawyer, not a herring-seller.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58234\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Federman600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Federman600.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Russ Federman. Photo: Belathée Photography\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58234\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mark Russ Federman. Photo: Belathée Photography\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As expected, Russ Federman went to law school, passed the bar, and started practicing--only to discover that he wasn't happy practicing with a big uptown law firm. After years of being pressed into work at the shop during every school vacation and holiday, he came back to the shop in 1978 to learn the business and take some of the pressure off his aging parents. As he writes, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"My plan was to help them run the store part-time and practice law part-time. What was I smoking? The first day I took up my place behind the counter was the last day I practiced law. Even though I had worked there as a kid, I had no idea what it meant to be responsible for every piece of fish, every customer, and every employee every minute of the day.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>It wasn't easy, stepping into the shoes of \"Mr. Russ,\" the public face and buck-stops-here owner. The men at the smokehouses where he bought their fish were tough, making him earn their respect, even slipping bad fish into his orders to see if he could pick them out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even when he had retired from active duty, after 35 years on the floor, customers who saw him in the shop thought nothing of ordering him to get behind the counter and fill their requests for lox and herring. As he writes in the beginning of the book, when one bossy elderly woman, ignoring the lines of waiting customers around her, insists that he should \"make her a herring\"--that is, skin, bone, and fillet a smoked herring for her while she waits, even though the case is filled with ready-to-go fillets, he loses patience and pulls rank. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>I went for the ultimate weapon in my arsenal. \"Lady, do you know who I am? I am Mr. Russ.\" I expected my pronouncement to end any further challenges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took less than a second for her response. \"I know you. You're not Mistar Russ. Your grandfadder vas Mistar Russ.\" \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>After passing on the business to his daughter Niki and nephew Josh in 2009, he found himself suddenly, if gratefully, no longer Mr. Russ. \"I wrote a book, basically, to give me something to do, keep me from just \u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com/yiddishisms.php\">potchking\u003c/a> [puttering] around. All those years, my persona was Mr. Russ, the guy behind the counter. You can get the bends, you stop too soon,\" he said in a recent phone interview. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He already had a built-in platform--the shop--for selling the book. He got an agent, then a publisher, and then, he just had to write it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[Calvin] Bud Trillin said, 'Listen, Mark, you stay out of my business, I'll stay out of yours.' So then it was a challenge,\" he laughed. \"Who knew that writing could be harder than retail?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, Trillin, a popular writer and longtime fan of the shop, went on to write a heartfelt introduction to the book, updating a piece he'd written about the shop back in 1974. In the early 70s, Trillin, like my own father, was taking his daughters to the shop for their first tastes of halvah, herring, kippered salmon, and pickled lox. Now, he takes his grandchildren. As Trillin writes,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"But Russ and Daughters still looks about the same as it did when I described it, around forty years ago, as refutation of the false teaching that a store that sells pickled herring cannot have character and a clean display case at the same time...I know, because I can often be found there on a Sunday morning.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But Russ Federman didn't just want to share whitefish-salad recipes and funny anecdotes of famous customers like Zero Mostel and Tony Bourdain. He wanted to capture his family's own stories, research their history, and \"make the Russ family proud of what we've been doing for the past 100 years,\" especially his 92 year old mother Anne and 100 year old aunt Hattie, the two remaining original Russ daughters. \"Because, for them, it was hard work and awful conditions.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Random House sent the first two copies of the book by FedEx to his mother and aunt in Florida, where they now live. Russ Federman opened the box with them and watched as they turned the pages peppered with old family photos. \"Of course, their first reaction was 'Why did you have to say that'? But then, they were totally thrilled. They were stopping, telling their own stories,\" as they went through the book. \"It took 3 years, but I accomplished my mission.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book also details how the store went from neighbor herring purveyor to city institution, playing an essential part in the lives of its customers even as Jews left the Lower East Side, and the neighborhood sank into drug-fueled crime and squalor in the 70s and 80s, followed by artists and then ever-increasing gentrification over the past 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even as, one by one, the old Jewish bakeries and delis closed, Russ & Daughters kept going, even after the downtown devastation of 9/11. You wanted to celebrate a bris, you ordered a smoked-fish platter. Sitting shiva after a death in the family, you ordered babka and rugalach, cookies and dried fruit for noshing. From the Yom Kippur break-fast to New Year's Day or just another Sunday morning, any day was a occasion made better with lox, sturgeon, smoked chub, herring salad, even caviar. The trick, of course, wasn't just the sterling quality of the fish; it was that the Russes had the \"schmooze gene,\" able to remember complete customer histories, not just of their tastes in sturgeon and lox but their medical histories, their foibles, and their family trees, and able to banter back and forth across the counter so that shopping there wasn't just shopping, it was an only-in-New-York experience, even for customers who'd long since relocated to Great Neck or New Rochelle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that everyone's got a crock of kraut going in the kitchen, does Russ Federman have advice for the next generation of would-be professional salmon-smokers and pickle makers dreaming of a storefront in Oakland or Bushwick? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forget cutesy names and logos, he tells me. \"Put your own name on the door. Because if your name is on it, every product, every bag, every thing that goes through that door has your ego, your personality, your life on it. Do that for 100 years. Then you'll be a success.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58233\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Beet-Salad600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Beet-Salad600.jpg\" alt=\"Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad. Photo: Matthew Hranek\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58233\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad. Photo: Matthew Hranek\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Swedish mustard, which you can find at IKEA, has a sweet-spiced tang that matches very well with this combination of earthy beets, tart apple, and pickled herring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted from Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House that Herring Built, by Mark Russ Federman. Reprinted by permission.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nPrep Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cooking Time: \u003c/strong>45 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong> Total Time: \u003c/strong>1 hour 45 minutes, plus chilling time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 6 to 8 servings\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beets\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n6 to 8 medium beets, trimmed and scrubbed (about 1 3/4-2 lbs)\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n2 tsp mild Swedish mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mustard Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp mild Swedish mustard\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp honey\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp minced fresh dill\u003cbr>\nKosher salt\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salad\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 medium Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4 inch dice\u003cbr>\n1 small red onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice\u003cbr>\n2 pickled herring fillets, cut into 1/4-inch dice\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup minced sour pickle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. To prepare the beets, place them in a large saucepean and add water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the beets are tender, 30 to 45 minutes. Drain the beets and rinse with cold water until they are cool enough to handle. The skins should slip off easily. Cut the beets into quarters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Whisk the red wine vinegar, oil, sugar, and mustard in a large bowl. Add the beets and toss to coat. Allow the beets to stand in the vinegar mixture for 2 hours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. To prepare the mustard sauce, combine the red wine vinegar, mustard, sugar, and honey in a medium bowl and whisk to blend. Slowly pour in the vegetable oil, whisking constantly. Whisk in the dill and salt and pepper to taste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Drain the beets and cut into 1/4-inch dice. Place them in a large bowl and add the apple, red onion, herring, and minced pickle. Pour half the mustard sauce over the salad and toss to blend. Add more mustard sauce a little at a time until the salad is well coated. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt and pepper as necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Mark Russ Federman will be talking about his book with chef and cookbook author \u003ca href=\"http://www.joycegoldstein.com/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a> on March 10 at 12pm at the San Francisco Jewish Community Center. The event is sold out, but the talk will be streamed live on the \u003ca href=\"https://www.jccsf.org/arts-ideas/lectures/culinary/brunch-w-russ-daughters/\">JCC website\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "What does it take to stay in business for 100 years selling herring? Stephanie Rosenbaum talks to Mark Russ Federman of New York City's legendary Russ & Daughters about his new memoir and the secret to his family's success. \r\n",
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"description": "What does it take to stay in business for 100 years selling herring? Stephanie Rosenbaum talks to Mark Russ Federman of New York City's legendary Russ & Daughters about his new memoir and the secret to his family's success. \r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-cover600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-cover600.jpg\" alt=\"Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes From The House That Herring Built by Mark Russ Federman\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-58235\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Overwhelming\" and \"unexpected\" is how smoked-fishmonger turned writer Mark Russ Federman describes the reaction to his recently published memoir, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0805242945/kqedorg-20\">Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House That Herring Built\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57757\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"Russ & Daughters pink-and-green neon sign. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-57757\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Russ & Daughters pink-and-green neon sign. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com/\">Russ & Daughters\u003c/a>, for those of you who weren't lucky enough to grow up within Sunday-morning driving distance of its pink-and-green neon sign on the Lower East Side, is an \"appetizing\" store, a family business nearly 100 years old, still thriving under the ownership of the great-granddaughter and great-grandnephew of the original founder, Joel Russ. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wait, what's an \"appetizing\" store, you ask? Let's start with the smell. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Push open the door at Russ & Daughters and the first thing to hit you is the store's unique aroma. It's a combination of smokiness from whitefish, salmon, sturgeon,and sable; the brininess of herrings and pickles; the yeastiness of freshly baked bagels and bialys, and the sweetness of rugelach, babka, chocolates, and halvah. How I wish I could bottle that singular scent--smoky, briny, yeasty and sweet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Russ Federman's description above shows, the \"appetizing\" store is a particularly Jewish-American category of business, specializing in smoked fish and dairy products. It arose out of kosher dietary laws, which forbid the mixing of milk and meat at the same meal or, indeed, in the same shop. So, when it came to prepared foods, the delicatessen, or deli, sold pastrami, corned beef, tongue, salami, chopped liver, chicken soup, and more, while the \"appetizing\" store stocked smoked and cured fish in all its forms, from pickled \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/default/article/Herring-on-menus-of-Bay-Area-restaurants-4283165.php\"> herring\u003c/a> to smoked salmon, along with the dairy to serve with it: cheese and cream cheese, plus pickles, sauerkraut, and often bagels, bialys, candies, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/26/grandmas-rugelach\">rugelach\u003c/a>, chocolates, and dried fruit, too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58237\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Tabletop600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Tabletop600.jpg\" alt=\"A Typical Appetizing Spread, Ready for a Family Celebration. Photo by Matthew Hranek\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58237\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Typical Appetizing Spread, Ready for a Family Celebration.\u003cbr>Photo by Matthew Hranek\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Appetizing stores--and Jewish bakeries, delis, restaurants, shops, and Yiddish theaters--flourished in New York City’s Lower East Side, where Jews from Russia, Poland, Hungary, and the rest of Central and Eastern Europe came fleeing persecution, seeking religious freedom or just looking, like so many other immigrants then and now, for economic opportunity and a better life for themselves and their children. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story that Russ Federman tells, of how his grandfather Joel Russ made it to the Lower East Side from a tiny village in Poland, and, with business savvy and a whole lot of grinding, day in-day out hard work, managed to go from selling herring from a barrel on the street to launching a store that remains a beloved New York landmark some 100 years later, is a classic American immigrant’s tale. But it also brings to life the lost Jewish world of the Lower East Side. My great-grandfather, also born in Poland, was a baker in the neighborhood; my grandmother, who came here as a child in the early 1900s, had stories of delivering hot rolls in a horse-drawn cart through the pushcarts crowding the tenement-lined streets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That Joel Russ's three daughters Anne, Hattie, and Ida would work in the family business went without saying. As Russ Federman tells it, the family motto became \u003cem>\"Vi nempt men parnosa?\"\u003c/em> a Yiddish phrase he translates as \"From where do we take our living?\" The family's living came from the shop, and so the family, all of it, worked hard to make the shop successful. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Joel Russ also recognized that his three smiling, pretty daughters were a draw that lured customers as much as a good price on schmaltz herring, and he turned the name of the business into Russ & Daughters. Son-in-laws were set up behind the counter, too, but the third generation, including Mark, weren't supposed to be shopkeepers. For them, the goal was college and a profession--a doctor, a lawyer, not a herring-seller.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58234\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Federman600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Federman600.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Russ Federman. Photo: Belathée Photography\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58234\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mark Russ Federman. Photo: Belathée Photography\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As expected, Russ Federman went to law school, passed the bar, and started practicing--only to discover that he wasn't happy practicing with a big uptown law firm. After years of being pressed into work at the shop during every school vacation and holiday, he came back to the shop in 1978 to learn the business and take some of the pressure off his aging parents. As he writes, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"My plan was to help them run the store part-time and practice law part-time. What was I smoking? The first day I took up my place behind the counter was the last day I practiced law. Even though I had worked there as a kid, I had no idea what it meant to be responsible for every piece of fish, every customer, and every employee every minute of the day.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>It wasn't easy, stepping into the shoes of \"Mr. Russ,\" the public face and buck-stops-here owner. The men at the smokehouses where he bought their fish were tough, making him earn their respect, even slipping bad fish into his orders to see if he could pick them out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even when he had retired from active duty, after 35 years on the floor, customers who saw him in the shop thought nothing of ordering him to get behind the counter and fill their requests for lox and herring. As he writes in the beginning of the book, when one bossy elderly woman, ignoring the lines of waiting customers around her, insists that he should \"make her a herring\"--that is, skin, bone, and fillet a smoked herring for her while she waits, even though the case is filled with ready-to-go fillets, he loses patience and pulls rank. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>I went for the ultimate weapon in my arsenal. \"Lady, do you know who I am? I am Mr. Russ.\" I expected my pronouncement to end any further challenges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took less than a second for her response. \"I know you. You're not Mistar Russ. Your grandfadder vas Mistar Russ.\" \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>After passing on the business to his daughter Niki and nephew Josh in 2009, he found himself suddenly, if gratefully, no longer Mr. Russ. \"I wrote a book, basically, to give me something to do, keep me from just \u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com/yiddishisms.php\">potchking\u003c/a> [puttering] around. All those years, my persona was Mr. Russ, the guy behind the counter. You can get the bends, you stop too soon,\" he said in a recent phone interview. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He already had a built-in platform--the shop--for selling the book. He got an agent, then a publisher, and then, he just had to write it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[Calvin] Bud Trillin said, 'Listen, Mark, you stay out of my business, I'll stay out of yours.' So then it was a challenge,\" he laughed. \"Who knew that writing could be harder than retail?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, Trillin, a popular writer and longtime fan of the shop, went on to write a heartfelt introduction to the book, updating a piece he'd written about the shop back in 1974. In the early 70s, Trillin, like my own father, was taking his daughters to the shop for their first tastes of halvah, herring, kippered salmon, and pickled lox. Now, he takes his grandchildren. As Trillin writes,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"But Russ and Daughters still looks about the same as it did when I described it, around forty years ago, as refutation of the false teaching that a store that sells pickled herring cannot have character and a clean display case at the same time...I know, because I can often be found there on a Sunday morning.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But Russ Federman didn't just want to share whitefish-salad recipes and funny anecdotes of famous customers like Zero Mostel and Tony Bourdain. He wanted to capture his family's own stories, research their history, and \"make the Russ family proud of what we've been doing for the past 100 years,\" especially his 92 year old mother Anne and 100 year old aunt Hattie, the two remaining original Russ daughters. \"Because, for them, it was hard work and awful conditions.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Random House sent the first two copies of the book by FedEx to his mother and aunt in Florida, where they now live. Russ Federman opened the box with them and watched as they turned the pages peppered with old family photos. \"Of course, their first reaction was 'Why did you have to say that'? But then, they were totally thrilled. They were stopping, telling their own stories,\" as they went through the book. \"It took 3 years, but I accomplished my mission.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book also details how the store went from neighbor herring purveyor to city institution, playing an essential part in the lives of its customers even as Jews left the Lower East Side, and the neighborhood sank into drug-fueled crime and squalor in the 70s and 80s, followed by artists and then ever-increasing gentrification over the past 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even as, one by one, the old Jewish bakeries and delis closed, Russ & Daughters kept going, even after the downtown devastation of 9/11. You wanted to celebrate a bris, you ordered a smoked-fish platter. Sitting shiva after a death in the family, you ordered babka and rugalach, cookies and dried fruit for noshing. From the Yom Kippur break-fast to New Year's Day or just another Sunday morning, any day was a occasion made better with lox, sturgeon, smoked chub, herring salad, even caviar. The trick, of course, wasn't just the sterling quality of the fish; it was that the Russes had the \"schmooze gene,\" able to remember complete customer histories, not just of their tastes in sturgeon and lox but their medical histories, their foibles, and their family trees, and able to banter back and forth across the counter so that shopping there wasn't just shopping, it was an only-in-New-York experience, even for customers who'd long since relocated to Great Neck or New Rochelle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that everyone's got a crock of kraut going in the kitchen, does Russ Federman have advice for the next generation of would-be professional salmon-smokers and pickle makers dreaming of a storefront in Oakland or Bushwick? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forget cutesy names and logos, he tells me. \"Put your own name on the door. Because if your name is on it, every product, every bag, every thing that goes through that door has your ego, your personality, your life on it. Do that for 100 years. Then you'll be a success.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58233\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Beet-Salad600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Beet-Salad600.jpg\" alt=\"Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad. Photo: Matthew Hranek\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58233\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad. Photo: Matthew Hranek\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Swedish mustard, which you can find at IKEA, has a sweet-spiced tang that matches very well with this combination of earthy beets, tart apple, and pickled herring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted from Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House that Herring Built, by Mark Russ Federman. Reprinted by permission.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nPrep Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cooking Time: \u003c/strong>45 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong> Total Time: \u003c/strong>1 hour 45 minutes, plus chilling time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 6 to 8 servings\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beets\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n6 to 8 medium beets, trimmed and scrubbed (about 1 3/4-2 lbs)\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n2 tsp mild Swedish mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mustard Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp mild Swedish mustard\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp honey\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp minced fresh dill\u003cbr>\nKosher salt\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salad\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 medium Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4 inch dice\u003cbr>\n1 small red onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice\u003cbr>\n2 pickled herring fillets, cut into 1/4-inch dice\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup minced sour pickle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. To prepare the beets, place them in a large saucepean and add water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the beets are tender, 30 to 45 minutes. Drain the beets and rinse with cold water until they are cool enough to handle. The skins should slip off easily. Cut the beets into quarters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Whisk the red wine vinegar, oil, sugar, and mustard in a large bowl. Add the beets and toss to coat. Allow the beets to stand in the vinegar mixture for 2 hours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. To prepare the mustard sauce, combine the red wine vinegar, mustard, sugar, and honey in a medium bowl and whisk to blend. Slowly pour in the vegetable oil, whisking constantly. Whisk in the dill and salt and pepper to taste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Drain the beets and cut into 1/4-inch dice. Place them in a large bowl and add the apple, red onion, herring, and minced pickle. Pour half the mustard sauce over the salad and toss to blend. Add more mustard sauce a little at a time until the salad is well coated. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt and pepper as necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Mark Russ Federman will be talking about his book with chef and cookbook author \u003ca href=\"http://www.joycegoldstein.com/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a> on March 10 at 12pm at the San Francisco Jewish Community Center. The event is sold out, but the talk will be streamed live on the \u003ca href=\"https://www.jccsf.org/arts-ideas/lectures/culinary/brunch-w-russ-daughters/\">JCC website\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"marketplace": {
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"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"planet-money": {
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"politicalbreakdown": {
"id": "politicalbreakdown",
"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"pri-the-world": {
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"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 2pm-3pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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},
"reveal": {
"id": "reveal",
"title": "Reveal",
"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.revealnews.org/episodes/",
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"rss": "http://feeds.revealradio.org/revealpodcast"
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},
"rightnowish": {
"id": "rightnowish",
"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"order": 16
},
"link": "/podcasts/rightnowish",
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},
"science-friday": {
"id": "science-friday",
"title": "Science Friday",
"info": "Science Friday is a weekly science talk show, broadcast live over public radio stations nationwide. Each week, the show focuses on science topics that are in the news and tries to bring an educated, balanced discussion to bear on the scientific issues at hand. Panels of expert guests join host Ira Flatow, a veteran science journalist, to discuss science and to take questions from listeners during the call-in portion of the program.",
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},
"snap-judgment": {
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