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"content": "\u003cp>Could the next big thing in alternative proteins be a something tiny and green?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several companies see a bright future for plant protein, and for microalgae in particular. But whether this attractive protein source can muscle out a place for itself against heavyweights like soy and pea is an open question. While soy has been the alternative protein of choice for years, up-and-coming companies like Hampton Creek Foods are using pea protein to make a substitute for eggs and mayonnaise, and are attracting \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/06/13/191029875/why-bill-gates-is-investing-in-chicken-less-eggs\">high-powered investors\u003c/a>. Will microalgae companies be able to follow suit?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Demand for plant protein of all stripes is growing in concert with growing interest in the U.S. in reducing meat consumption. Lots of people, from vegans to flexitarians to Meatless Monday dabblers, are substituting \u003ca href=\"http://www.latimes.com/science/sciencenow/la-sci-sn-vegan-health-20150121-story.html\">vegetables\u003c/a> for meat. And the national Dietary Guideline Advisory Committee concurs: Their \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/news/wonkblog/wp/2015/02/19/eating-a-lot-of-meat-is-hurting-the-environment-and-you-should-stop-top-u-s-nutritional-panel-says/\">2015 recommendations\u003c/a> emphasize a plant-based diet and suggest that Americans cut back on meat for health and environmental reasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many are seeing a business opportunity in this shift.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[Product] developers realize we need to broaden our protein horizons and are on the hunt for alternative protein sources,\" \u003ca href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/pub/camilla-stice/4/60a/b39\">Camilla Stice\u003c/a>, a food and nutrition research analyst at the tech strategy firm Lux Research Inc., tells The Salt via email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vegetable proteins are especially attractive, because consumers accept them more than other trendy protein alternatives, like insects. As The Salt has \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/05/27/410013224/bugs-its-not-whats-for-dinner-until-theyre-tastier-maybe\">reported\u003c/a>, even though it's getting easier to snack on bugs, entomophagy still seems pretty creepy to most Westerners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soy currently dominates the plant protein market, according to Stice. But it has lost some ground, due in part to consumer concerns about \u003ca href=\"http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/soybean-fertility-hormone-isoflavones-genistein/\">estrogen-mimicking compounds\u003c/a> and GMOs. Other plant proteins — from pea, rice, bean, potato and quinoa — are making some inroads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the algae boosters say it has nutritional advantages that make it stand out. Microalgae is 50 to 60 percent protein, but unlike many soy protein products, where the protein has been isolated from the plant, microalgae is generally used as a whole-food ingredient and retains more than just protein. Nutrients vary by strain, but can include fat; fiber; vitamin A, B, C and E; and minerals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Algae\" informally refers to a variety of organisms that are aquatic and photosynthetic but lack stems, roots and leaves. There are \u003ca href=\"http://www.academia.edu/1741106/ALGAE_BIOLOGY\">two broad categories\u003c/a> of algae: macroalgae and microalgae. Macroalgae are seaweeds, like dulse and kelp. They're large and multicellular, and are also \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/03/19/394060671/watch-your-back-kale-kelp-is-gunning-for-the-veggie-du-jour-title\">of interest\u003c/a> as a food crop. Microalgae are single-celled organisms, and some species (there are thousands) might make good \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/10/25/163606540/algae-as-car-fuel-possible-but-not-sustainable\">biofuel.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A handful of microalgae species, \u003cem>Spirulina\u003c/em> or \u003cem>Chlorella\u003c/em> in particular, also show promise as a natural superfood. Technically, \u003cem>Spirulina\u003c/em> isn't even an algae; it's a kind of cyanobacteria, called blue-green algae. But both \u003cem>Spirulina\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Chlorella\u003c/em> have been used as dietary supplements and in food products like \u003ca href=\"http://www.nakedjuice.com/our-products/juice/green-machine\">green smoothie drinks\u003c/a>, and both are relatively easy to grow. For some companies trying to make microalgae catch on as an alternative protein source, \u003cem>Chlorella\u003c/em> is the microalgae of choice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the U.S., there's some buzz around \u003ca href=\"http://solazyme.com/?lang=en\">Solazyme\u003c/a>, a San Francisco-based company best known for its work with plant-based fuels. Now it's also developing microalgae powder for use in cooking, baking and smoothies. The food products are being marketed under the name AlgaVia, and are beginning to be used as ingredients in \u003ca href=\"http://www.califiafarms.com/products/coffee-creamer/\">grocery store items\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mark Brooks, the senior vice president of Solazyme's food division, says he's excited about the prospect of bringing algal protein to the masses. \"We are making new-to-the-world, game-changing protein,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Solazyme, a strain of \u003cem>Chlorella\u003c/em> microalgae is \u003ca href=\"http://solazyme.com/innovation/?lang=en\">grown\u003c/a> in closed, stainless-steel fermentation tanks (as opposed to the \u003ca href=\"http://allaboutalgae.com/open-pond/\">open-pond system\u003c/a> used in other production facilities) and then washed, dried, and milled into powder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With fermentation, Brooks says, Solazyme can turn plant sugars into protein quickly. The short time required for a finished product is why he calls Solazyme's technology \"revolutionary:\" Instead of taking months to grow a crop, or years to raise an animal into adulthood, high-protein microalgae can be produced in a matter of days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Portugal, another company, called \u003ca href=\"http://www.allma.com/ing/food-ingredients\">Allma\u003c/a>, is offering microalgae food products. Allma produces a different strain of \u003cem>Chlorella\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>algae that, unlike Solazyme's microalgae, requires light to grow inside a closed system called a photobioreactor. Sofia Mendonca, the business development manager at Allma, says that this method of growth allows a high level of control over algal growth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Allma is offering several \u003cem>Chlorella\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>products, Mendonca says, and consumer feedback has been positive. \"Microalgae products are needed,\" she says, because \"they represent a natural, high quality source of essential micronutrients.\" Mendonca thinks the future of microalgae is bright.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that doesn't mean it's quite ready for prime time. \"Microalgae cannot be yet considered a food commodity,\" Mendonca says. And, she says, there are many obstacles for her company and others to overcome before they can scale up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mario Tredici, a professor at the University of Florence who has spent several decades researching microalgae, says that for now, microalgae is still too costly to compete with other plant proteins. In 10 years, he predicts, the price may come down enough where it could compete with milk and eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stice agrees that cost is a problem. \"The industry is looking for a low-cost, sustainable protein source,\" she says, \"and developers have yet to prove algae is that source.\" Other concerns are also holding microalgae back, she says. Depending on the species of algae, the type of production system, and location, growing microalgae can use a lot of water and have high energy costs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What needs to happen, Tredici says, is more research on growing microalgae at large scales. And if we can figure this puzzle out, cultivation of microalgae could have very large impacts. Growing microalgae saves soil, uses fertilizer with very high efficiency, and doesn't require pesticides. Water can be a problem, but closed systems of cultivation recirculate water to limit waste. Tredici's group is looking into cultivation of a marine microalgae as food, so that freshwater wouldn't be needed at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It may not be ready yet, but in the future, Tredici says, microalgae could compete with alternative protein sources like insects, with the added benefit of more vitamins and nutrients. \"Protein is important,\" he says, \"but algae are much more than protein.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Could the next big thing in alternative proteins be a something tiny and green?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several companies see a bright future for plant protein, and for microalgae in particular. But whether this attractive protein source can muscle out a place for itself against heavyweights like soy and pea is an open question. While soy has been the alternative protein of choice for years, up-and-coming companies like Hampton Creek Foods are using pea protein to make a substitute for eggs and mayonnaise, and are attracting \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/06/13/191029875/why-bill-gates-is-investing-in-chicken-less-eggs\">high-powered investors\u003c/a>. Will microalgae companies be able to follow suit?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Demand for plant protein of all stripes is growing in concert with growing interest in the U.S. in reducing meat consumption. Lots of people, from vegans to flexitarians to Meatless Monday dabblers, are substituting \u003ca href=\"http://www.latimes.com/science/sciencenow/la-sci-sn-vegan-health-20150121-story.html\">vegetables\u003c/a> for meat. And the national Dietary Guideline Advisory Committee concurs: Their \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/news/wonkblog/wp/2015/02/19/eating-a-lot-of-meat-is-hurting-the-environment-and-you-should-stop-top-u-s-nutritional-panel-says/\">2015 recommendations\u003c/a> emphasize a plant-based diet and suggest that Americans cut back on meat for health and environmental reasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many are seeing a business opportunity in this shift.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[Product] developers realize we need to broaden our protein horizons and are on the hunt for alternative protein sources,\" \u003ca href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/pub/camilla-stice/4/60a/b39\">Camilla Stice\u003c/a>, a food and nutrition research analyst at the tech strategy firm Lux Research Inc., tells The Salt via email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vegetable proteins are especially attractive, because consumers accept them more than other trendy protein alternatives, like insects. As The Salt has \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/05/27/410013224/bugs-its-not-whats-for-dinner-until-theyre-tastier-maybe\">reported\u003c/a>, even though it's getting easier to snack on bugs, entomophagy still seems pretty creepy to most Westerners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soy currently dominates the plant protein market, according to Stice. But it has lost some ground, due in part to consumer concerns about \u003ca href=\"http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/soybean-fertility-hormone-isoflavones-genistein/\">estrogen-mimicking compounds\u003c/a> and GMOs. Other plant proteins — from pea, rice, bean, potato and quinoa — are making some inroads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the algae boosters say it has nutritional advantages that make it stand out. Microalgae is 50 to 60 percent protein, but unlike many soy protein products, where the protein has been isolated from the plant, microalgae is generally used as a whole-food ingredient and retains more than just protein. Nutrients vary by strain, but can include fat; fiber; vitamin A, B, C and E; and minerals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Algae\" informally refers to a variety of organisms that are aquatic and photosynthetic but lack stems, roots and leaves. There are \u003ca href=\"http://www.academia.edu/1741106/ALGAE_BIOLOGY\">two broad categories\u003c/a> of algae: macroalgae and microalgae. Macroalgae are seaweeds, like dulse and kelp. They're large and multicellular, and are also \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/03/19/394060671/watch-your-back-kale-kelp-is-gunning-for-the-veggie-du-jour-title\">of interest\u003c/a> as a food crop. Microalgae are single-celled organisms, and some species (there are thousands) might make good \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/10/25/163606540/algae-as-car-fuel-possible-but-not-sustainable\">biofuel.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A handful of microalgae species, \u003cem>Spirulina\u003c/em> or \u003cem>Chlorella\u003c/em> in particular, also show promise as a natural superfood. Technically, \u003cem>Spirulina\u003c/em> isn't even an algae; it's a kind of cyanobacteria, called blue-green algae. But both \u003cem>Spirulina\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Chlorella\u003c/em> have been used as dietary supplements and in food products like \u003ca href=\"http://www.nakedjuice.com/our-products/juice/green-machine\">green smoothie drinks\u003c/a>, and both are relatively easy to grow. For some companies trying to make microalgae catch on as an alternative protein source, \u003cem>Chlorella\u003c/em> is the microalgae of choice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the U.S., there's some buzz around \u003ca href=\"http://solazyme.com/?lang=en\">Solazyme\u003c/a>, a San Francisco-based company best known for its work with plant-based fuels. Now it's also developing microalgae powder for use in cooking, baking and smoothies. The food products are being marketed under the name AlgaVia, and are beginning to be used as ingredients in \u003ca href=\"http://www.califiafarms.com/products/coffee-creamer/\">grocery store items\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mark Brooks, the senior vice president of Solazyme's food division, says he's excited about the prospect of bringing algal protein to the masses. \"We are making new-to-the-world, game-changing protein,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Solazyme, a strain of \u003cem>Chlorella\u003c/em> microalgae is \u003ca href=\"http://solazyme.com/innovation/?lang=en\">grown\u003c/a> in closed, stainless-steel fermentation tanks (as opposed to the \u003ca href=\"http://allaboutalgae.com/open-pond/\">open-pond system\u003c/a> used in other production facilities) and then washed, dried, and milled into powder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With fermentation, Brooks says, Solazyme can turn plant sugars into protein quickly. The short time required for a finished product is why he calls Solazyme's technology \"revolutionary:\" Instead of taking months to grow a crop, or years to raise an animal into adulthood, high-protein microalgae can be produced in a matter of days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Portugal, another company, called \u003ca href=\"http://www.allma.com/ing/food-ingredients\">Allma\u003c/a>, is offering microalgae food products. Allma produces a different strain of \u003cem>Chlorella\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>algae that, unlike Solazyme's microalgae, requires light to grow inside a closed system called a photobioreactor. Sofia Mendonca, the business development manager at Allma, says that this method of growth allows a high level of control over algal growth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Allma is offering several \u003cem>Chlorella\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>products, Mendonca says, and consumer feedback has been positive. \"Microalgae products are needed,\" she says, because \"they represent a natural, high quality source of essential micronutrients.\" Mendonca thinks the future of microalgae is bright.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that doesn't mean it's quite ready for prime time. \"Microalgae cannot be yet considered a food commodity,\" Mendonca says. And, she says, there are many obstacles for her company and others to overcome before they can scale up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mario Tredici, a professor at the University of Florence who has spent several decades researching microalgae, says that for now, microalgae is still too costly to compete with other plant proteins. In 10 years, he predicts, the price may come down enough where it could compete with milk and eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stice agrees that cost is a problem. \"The industry is looking for a low-cost, sustainable protein source,\" she says, \"and developers have yet to prove algae is that source.\" Other concerns are also holding microalgae back, she says. Depending on the species of algae, the type of production system, and location, growing microalgae can use a lot of water and have high energy costs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What needs to happen, Tredici says, is more research on growing microalgae at large scales. And if we can figure this puzzle out, cultivation of microalgae could have very large impacts. Growing microalgae saves soil, uses fertilizer with very high efficiency, and doesn't require pesticides. Water can be a problem, but closed systems of cultivation recirculate water to limit waste. Tredici's group is looking into cultivation of a marine microalgae as food, so that freshwater wouldn't be needed at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It may not be ready yet, but in the future, Tredici says, microalgae could compete with alternative protein sources like insects, with the added benefit of more vitamins and nutrients. \"Protein is important,\" he says, \"but algae are much more than protein.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Wanted: More Bulls With No Horns",
"title": "Wanted: More Bulls With No Horns",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>The next time you're in the dairy aisle at the supermarket, take a moment to imagine the animals that produced all that milk. Do these cows have horns? Chances are they do, or at least they did at birth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About \u003ca href=\"http://www.hoards.com/T15july-breed-composition-trends\">85 percent of milk\u003c/a> sold in the United States comes from Holstein cows born with horns. But it's standard practice for farms to remove horns from cattle to prevent injuries to workers, veterinarians and other cows in the herd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Horned cattle: You get them on the truck, you get twice as many bruises when you get to the slaughterhouses. Bruises have to be cut out and thrown away,\" says Colorado State University professor and well-known animal advocate Temple Grandin. \"In the dairy industry, removing horns improves safety for the stock people and the farmworkers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But not everyone agrees with the practice of dehorning cattle. In recent years, animal welfare groups including The Humane Society and People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) \u003ca href=\"http://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-food/factory-farming/cows/dairy-industry/dehorning/http:/www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-food/factory-farming/cows/dairy-industry/dehorning/\">have called for \u003c/a> an end to horn removal in cattle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their research shows it causes animals significant pain and stress, and that painkillers are rarely used during these procedures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the United States, there are no national rules regarding how farms should remove horns from cattle. Many farms follow the guidelines of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.avma.org/KB/Resources/LiteratureReviews/Documents/dehorning_cattle_bgnd.pdf\">American Veterinary Medical Association\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nationaldairyfarm.com/sites/default/files/FARM_manual_2013_WEB.pdf\">National Milk Producers Federation\u003c/a>, which recommend a practice called disbudding. Disbudding halts the growth of horn tissue in very young calves before pointy horns start to grow. Other dehorning techniques, like excising developing horns with metal scoops, are arguably harder on the cows and the workers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grandin is in favor of disbudding, as long as it's done quickly and with pain relief. \"It's just like the dentist — you've got to wait for the drugs to take effect,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But PETA and The Humane Society are pushing for a different approach. They want dairy farms to breed more hornless, or polled, animals into their herds. Thanks to advances in genomic selection and DNA testing, farmers can more easily find animals that carry naturally occurring hornless genes and breed the best of these animals with horned cattle. To be clear, this isn't genetic modification but breeding, since the polled gene occurs naturally in cattle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What's really exciting is that the polled gene is a dominant gene. Right away you get at least 50 percent of offspring born without the horn gene. Right off the bat, 50 percent of animals are spared from this cruel procedure,\" says PETA spokesman Dave Byer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until recently, selecting for the hornless gene hasn't been a top priority for the dairy industry, which is more interested in traits like superior milk production, cow health and fertility.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In the past, there weren't very many polled bulls for farmers to choose from, so the ability to find one with good genetics for milk production and all the other traits was low,\" says Virginia Tech genetics professor Ben Dorshorst. That's changed now: \"It is easier to find a good one, and that gets even more farmers interested in using polled genetics,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dorshorst recently conducted an analysis that revealed there are now twice as many polled dairy bulls for farmers to buy semen from than there were two years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bryan Quanbury, whose company, DairyBullsOnline, specializes in polled dairy breeding, says he's seen that uptick in demand firsthand. \"Five years ago, people hardly knew polled dairy cattle existed. Today farmers are asking for polled bulls,\" he says. \"With increased awareness, there is increased demand.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aurora Organic Dairy, which milks 19,000 cows in Colorado and Texas, began using polled genetics in its herd more than three years ago. Now nearly 70 percent of the farm's newborn calves are hornless.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The main reason that we do a lot of these things at Aurora is because cow care, animal wellbeing, is our no. 1 priority. And we share what we're doing with our customers, and they love it,\" says Aurora's vice president, Juan Velez.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98864\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 959px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465.jpg\" alt=\"Most of the milk sold in the US comes from Holstein dairy cows that are born with horns. To protect animals and workers, it's standard practice for farms to remove horns from calves soon after they're born.\" width=\"959\" height=\"960\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98864\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465.jpg 959w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465-800x801.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465-75x75.jpg 75w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 959px) 100vw, 959px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Most of the milk sold in the US comes from Holstein dairy cows that are born with horns. To protect animals and workers, it's standard practice for farms to remove horns from calves soon after they're born. \u003ccite>(Abbie Fentress Swanson for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Responding to calls from PETA, the Humane Society and concerned customers, many food manufacturers, retailers and restaurants are asking their suppliers to integrate more polled cattle into their herds. In July, the nation's largest supermarket, Kroger, \u003ca href=\"http://sustainability.kroger.com/supply-chain.html\">became the latest retailer to get on board\u003c/a>. Other companies with animal welfare policies that address dehorning and polled genetics in the supply chain include Starbucks, Sodexo, Dannon, Aramark, Nestlé, General Mills, Chipotle, Dunkin' Brands and Wal-Mart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But these companies aren't requiring suppliers to act, and farms aren't exactly chomping at the bit to make their herds 100 percent polled. Fair Oaks Farms milks 15,000 cows in Indiana and is one of Kroger's largest milk suppliers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We use very little polled breeding,\" says Fair Oaks president Mike McCloskey, because there aren't enough polled dairy bulls that carry the most desirable Holstein traits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"As soon as bulls start catching up, you'll see dairy producers across the country using polled breeding, because we all would like to eliminate the process of dehorning,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's also the question of cost. A \u003ca href=\"http://www.ars.usda.gov/research/publications/publications.htm?SEQ_NO_115=291629\">recent study from Purdue University and the U.S. Department of Agriculture\u003c/a> found adopting polled genetics and phasing out dehorning may save farmers money in labor and veterinary costs. But polled genetics could also cost farmers lost profits if their hornless cattle produce less milk. Farmers may also have to pay a premium for hornless bull semen – a concern that keeps many farmers from making the jump to polled bulls, says Mark Kerndt, an analyst with the cattle reproduction company Select Sires.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even if all of America's dairy farms adopt polled genetics, it will be a while before all the milk we buy comes from cows born without horns. Since polled genes in Holsteins occur at a relatively low frequency, farmers and breeders fear inbreeding if they move too quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Steve Maddox, who has 3,200 milking cows on his \u003ca href=\"http://www.maddoxdairy.com/new2011/\">California dairy\u003c/a>, is working hard to identify genetically polled animals in his herd. But he says it's slow going.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're trying to stay away from inbreeding, and we're trying to maintain the genetic levels we're at,\" Maddox says. \"You don't want to do it overnight, and you don't want to go back in genetics 20 or 30 years.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Abbie Fentress Swanson is a journalist based in Los Angeles. She covers agriculture, food production, science, health and the environment.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Most U.S. dairy cows are born with horns, but most farms remove them. Animal welfare groups say dehorning is cruel. Instead, they want ranchers to breed more hornless cattle into their herds.",
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"description": "Most U.S. dairy cows are born with horns, but most farms remove them. Animal welfare groups say dehorning is cruel. Instead, they want ranchers to breed more hornless cattle into their herds.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The next time you're in the dairy aisle at the supermarket, take a moment to imagine the animals that produced all that milk. Do these cows have horns? Chances are they do, or at least they did at birth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About \u003ca href=\"http://www.hoards.com/T15july-breed-composition-trends\">85 percent of milk\u003c/a> sold in the United States comes from Holstein cows born with horns. But it's standard practice for farms to remove horns from cattle to prevent injuries to workers, veterinarians and other cows in the herd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Horned cattle: You get them on the truck, you get twice as many bruises when you get to the slaughterhouses. Bruises have to be cut out and thrown away,\" says Colorado State University professor and well-known animal advocate Temple Grandin. \"In the dairy industry, removing horns improves safety for the stock people and the farmworkers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But not everyone agrees with the practice of dehorning cattle. In recent years, animal welfare groups including The Humane Society and People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) \u003ca href=\"http://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-food/factory-farming/cows/dairy-industry/dehorning/http:/www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-food/factory-farming/cows/dairy-industry/dehorning/\">have called for \u003c/a> an end to horn removal in cattle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their research shows it causes animals significant pain and stress, and that painkillers are rarely used during these procedures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the United States, there are no national rules regarding how farms should remove horns from cattle. Many farms follow the guidelines of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.avma.org/KB/Resources/LiteratureReviews/Documents/dehorning_cattle_bgnd.pdf\">American Veterinary Medical Association\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nationaldairyfarm.com/sites/default/files/FARM_manual_2013_WEB.pdf\">National Milk Producers Federation\u003c/a>, which recommend a practice called disbudding. Disbudding halts the growth of horn tissue in very young calves before pointy horns start to grow. Other dehorning techniques, like excising developing horns with metal scoops, are arguably harder on the cows and the workers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grandin is in favor of disbudding, as long as it's done quickly and with pain relief. \"It's just like the dentist — you've got to wait for the drugs to take effect,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But PETA and The Humane Society are pushing for a different approach. They want dairy farms to breed more hornless, or polled, animals into their herds. Thanks to advances in genomic selection and DNA testing, farmers can more easily find animals that carry naturally occurring hornless genes and breed the best of these animals with horned cattle. To be clear, this isn't genetic modification but breeding, since the polled gene occurs naturally in cattle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What's really exciting is that the polled gene is a dominant gene. Right away you get at least 50 percent of offspring born without the horn gene. Right off the bat, 50 percent of animals are spared from this cruel procedure,\" says PETA spokesman Dave Byer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until recently, selecting for the hornless gene hasn't been a top priority for the dairy industry, which is more interested in traits like superior milk production, cow health and fertility.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In the past, there weren't very many polled bulls for farmers to choose from, so the ability to find one with good genetics for milk production and all the other traits was low,\" says Virginia Tech genetics professor Ben Dorshorst. That's changed now: \"It is easier to find a good one, and that gets even more farmers interested in using polled genetics,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dorshorst recently conducted an analysis that revealed there are now twice as many polled dairy bulls for farmers to buy semen from than there were two years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bryan Quanbury, whose company, DairyBullsOnline, specializes in polled dairy breeding, says he's seen that uptick in demand firsthand. \"Five years ago, people hardly knew polled dairy cattle existed. Today farmers are asking for polled bulls,\" he says. \"With increased awareness, there is increased demand.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aurora Organic Dairy, which milks 19,000 cows in Colorado and Texas, began using polled genetics in its herd more than three years ago. Now nearly 70 percent of the farm's newborn calves are hornless.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The main reason that we do a lot of these things at Aurora is because cow care, animal wellbeing, is our no. 1 priority. And we share what we're doing with our customers, and they love it,\" says Aurora's vice president, Juan Velez.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98864\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 959px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465.jpg\" alt=\"Most of the milk sold in the US comes from Holstein dairy cows that are born with horns. To protect animals and workers, it's standard practice for farms to remove horns from calves soon after they're born.\" width=\"959\" height=\"960\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98864\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465.jpg 959w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465-800x801.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/holstein-calf_sq-57e8b08f5f2dc59c919487b7b5f9dc7f57b81465-75x75.jpg 75w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 959px) 100vw, 959px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Most of the milk sold in the US comes from Holstein dairy cows that are born with horns. To protect animals and workers, it's standard practice for farms to remove horns from calves soon after they're born. \u003ccite>(Abbie Fentress Swanson for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Responding to calls from PETA, the Humane Society and concerned customers, many food manufacturers, retailers and restaurants are asking their suppliers to integrate more polled cattle into their herds. In July, the nation's largest supermarket, Kroger, \u003ca href=\"http://sustainability.kroger.com/supply-chain.html\">became the latest retailer to get on board\u003c/a>. Other companies with animal welfare policies that address dehorning and polled genetics in the supply chain include Starbucks, Sodexo, Dannon, Aramark, Nestlé, General Mills, Chipotle, Dunkin' Brands and Wal-Mart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But these companies aren't requiring suppliers to act, and farms aren't exactly chomping at the bit to make their herds 100 percent polled. Fair Oaks Farms milks 15,000 cows in Indiana and is one of Kroger's largest milk suppliers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We use very little polled breeding,\" says Fair Oaks president Mike McCloskey, because there aren't enough polled dairy bulls that carry the most desirable Holstein traits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"As soon as bulls start catching up, you'll see dairy producers across the country using polled breeding, because we all would like to eliminate the process of dehorning,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's also the question of cost. A \u003ca href=\"http://www.ars.usda.gov/research/publications/publications.htm?SEQ_NO_115=291629\">recent study from Purdue University and the U.S. Department of Agriculture\u003c/a> found adopting polled genetics and phasing out dehorning may save farmers money in labor and veterinary costs. But polled genetics could also cost farmers lost profits if their hornless cattle produce less milk. Farmers may also have to pay a premium for hornless bull semen – a concern that keeps many farmers from making the jump to polled bulls, says Mark Kerndt, an analyst with the cattle reproduction company Select Sires.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even if all of America's dairy farms adopt polled genetics, it will be a while before all the milk we buy comes from cows born without horns. Since polled genes in Holsteins occur at a relatively low frequency, farmers and breeders fear inbreeding if they move too quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Steve Maddox, who has 3,200 milking cows on his \u003ca href=\"http://www.maddoxdairy.com/new2011/\">California dairy\u003c/a>, is working hard to identify genetically polled animals in his herd. But he says it's slow going.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're trying to stay away from inbreeding, and we're trying to maintain the genetic levels we're at,\" Maddox says. \"You don't want to do it overnight, and you don't want to go back in genetics 20 or 30 years.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Abbie Fentress Swanson is a journalist based in Los Angeles. She covers agriculture, food production, science, health and the environment.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "“Better Than Ice Cream”: Frozen Custard Comes To the Bay Area",
"title": "“Better Than Ice Cream”: Frozen Custard Comes To the Bay Area",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Us Bay Area residents can be a proud bunch when it comes to food. And justifiably so! With a climate that guarantees us picture perfect produce year round, we live in a veritable Eden of fresh, delicious food, far, far away from places with canned vegetables and \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2015/04/15/dining/dont-mess-with-my-breakfast-sandwich.html\" target=\"_blank\">bizarre obsessions\u003c/a> with egg sandwiches--places like the Midwest or the East Coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet, there’s one area that they’ve got us beat: frozen custard, a frozen Midwest and East Coast treat that’s rich, creamy and definitely better than ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At least, that’s what you’ll hear from the collection of Midwest and East Coast transplants bringing frozen custard to the Bay Area, a growing group that includes \u003ca href=\"http://www.flavorbrigade.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Flavor Brigade\u003c/a> in Oakland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.thevelvetscoop.com/\" target=\"_blank\">The Velvet Scoop\u003c/a> in San Francisco, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ritasfranchises.com/stores/store.cfm/Castro%20Valley-94546/store/2895\" target=\"_blank\">Rita’s\u003c/a> in Castro Valley, and food trucks like \u003ca href=\"http://www.lexiesfrozencustard.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Lexie's Frozen Custard,\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://www.frozenkuhsterd.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Frozen Kuhsterd \u003c/a>and \u003ca href=\"http://izzyafrozenicecreamcustard.com/index.html\" target=\"_blank\">IzzyA's\u003c/a>. Armed with patient explanations and lots of egg yolks, they’re introducing the ice cream lovers of the Bay Area to the pleasures of custards, concretes and gelati. And they’re not the only ones who’ve recognized custard’s potential in the Bay Area. In February, East Coast custard and Italian ice chain \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/2015/2/12/8027175/ritas-italian-ice-northern-california-60-locations\" target=\"_blank\">Rita’s announced\u003c/a> their plans to open 60 stores in Northern California over the next few years. And later that month, Oakland-born \u003ca href=\"http://www.dreyers.com/FrozenCustard\" target=\"_blank\">Dreyer's introduced \u003c/a>a line of packaged frozen custards coming to a freezer aisle near you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, what is this beloved treat? Frozen custard is a form of ice cream that's denser and richer than your typical pint, and is governed by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/cfrsearch.cfm?fr=135.110\" target=\"_blank\">FDA’s strict rules\u003c/a>, which ensure that custard is always made with at least 1.4 egg yolk solids by weight, giving it a silky richness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98624\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2.jpg\" alt=\"A cone at the Velvet Scoop in the Mission.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1276\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98624\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-1440x957.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-1400x930.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-1180x784.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-960x638.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A cone at the Velvet Scoop in the Mission. \u003ccite>(Velvet Scoop)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It also has less air whipped into it than ice cream. When making ice cream, the percent of volume increase due to the air added is referred to \u003ca href=\"http://www.idfa.org/news-views/media-kits/ice-cream/ice-cream-labeling\" target=\"_blank\">as overrun.\u003c/a> While ice cream can have up to 100% overrun (meaning that half the volume of your pint of butter pecan is air), frozen custard typically has much less (around 20-25%), making it dense smoothness. Since it’s typically made to order and never frozen, it also has the easier to eat texture of soft serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Frozen custard was invented in 1919 when Coney Island ice cream sellers Archie and Elton Kohr \u003ca href=\"http://www.kohrbros.com/coney.html\" target=\"_blank\">added egg to their ice cream\u003c/a> to keep their product from melting too quickly. It was successful and the dessert got a boost in 1933 when it was exhibited at the Chicago World’s Fair. The dessert spread around the country, becoming \u003ca href=\"http://ediblemilwaukee.com/vintage-eats/how-milwaukee-earned-its-custard-crown/\" target=\"_blank\">especially popular\u003c/a> in Milwaukee, where it has become a regional treat aided by the state’s robust dairy industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98625\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2.jpg\" alt=\"Flavor Brigade's slogan: "Philly's Best Now Available in the West"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1199\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98625\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-400x250.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-800x500.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-1440x899.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-1400x874.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-1180x737.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-960x600.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Flavor Brigade's slogan: \"Philly's Best Now Available in the West\" \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Most of the Bay Area custard shops have Midwestern roots. Oakland’s Flavor Brigade, the Bay Area’s first custard shop, was started in 2010 by childhood friends Braedon Galloway and Justin Mruskovic from Philadelphia who couldn’t find any good custard options after moving to the area. Their venture proved so successful that they opened a second shop in Pleasanton earlier this month. Velvet Scoop owner Zoe Madigan grew up making frozen custard with her grandparents in Illinois and eventually left her tech job to open up her shop in the Mission last year. And after Milwaukee native Tom Tankka introduced his wife Tina to the city’s famous \u003ca href=\"https://www.kopps.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Kopp’s Frozen Custard\u003c/a>, she fell in love with the dessert, and the two decided to start a frozen custard food truck last year, where they offer flavors more unusual than the typical chocolate and vanilla: mojito lime rickey custard, strawberry apricot sorbet, and boba frozen custard floats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the new shops aren’t just offering custard. Frozen custard has a whole entourage of desserts that go with it. There’s the concrete, which the Velvet Scoop specializes in: a generous amount of creamy soft serve combined with toppings like Nutella, cornflakes or butterscotch, that’s thick enough to be \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/the-velvet-scoop-san-francisco#XrlogBW2Ki-VzwDP3evTHA\" target=\"_blank\">served upside down\u003c/a>. Then there’s the gelati-- fruit flavored Italian ice topped with custard, typically vanilla, custard--that the chain Rita’s, which has a location in Castro Valley, offers. Flavor Brigade has something similar called the Mummers Mix, named for Philadelphia's colorful New Year’s Day \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mummers_Parade\" target=\"_blank\">parade\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s been easy for the Bay Area shops to gain momentum: there’s a built-in audience of Midwestern transplants eager for their cherished custard: “A long-running joke at The Velvet Scoop is that we’ve met every San Franciscan with roots in Milwaukee, St. Louis, and Chicago, the modern-day frozen custard capital cities,” Velvet Scoop’s Zoe Madigan said in an email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s the natives that take a little more convincing. “Some people come and say, ‘Is this custard, like pudding?’” said Tina Tankka. But while bringing custard to the Bay may require a little more explanation, the shop owners say it’s quickly converting us locals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98627\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609.jpg\" alt=\"A 2nd Street from Oakland's Flavor Brigade.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1676\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98627\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-400x349.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-800x698.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-1440x1257.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-1400x1222.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-1180x1030.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-960x838.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A 2nd Street from Oakland's Flavor Brigade. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We serve frozen custard to everyone from giggly youth soccer teams, to chatty book clubs, people who’ve lived in The Mission for generations, newcomers, business people, artists, musicians, families, friends, tourists, techies, and everyone in between. Collectively, our staff speaks English, Spanish, Chinese, and French; we’ve served customers in each of those languages,” Madigan said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some of them ask, is it ice cream? No, we say. It’s better than ice cream,” Tankka said. “Then we give them a taste. We insist on the tasting. And once they have a taste, they’re hooked.”\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Frozen custard is supposedly better than ice cream. It is historically a Midwestern and East Coast treat and a number of shops are springing up in the Bay Area serving this frozen dessert. Shelby Pope shares the story behind frozen custard and tells you the best local spots to get it. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Us Bay Area residents can be a proud bunch when it comes to food. And justifiably so! With a climate that guarantees us picture perfect produce year round, we live in a veritable Eden of fresh, delicious food, far, far away from places with canned vegetables and \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2015/04/15/dining/dont-mess-with-my-breakfast-sandwich.html\" target=\"_blank\">bizarre obsessions\u003c/a> with egg sandwiches--places like the Midwest or the East Coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet, there’s one area that they’ve got us beat: frozen custard, a frozen Midwest and East Coast treat that’s rich, creamy and definitely better than ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At least, that’s what you’ll hear from the collection of Midwest and East Coast transplants bringing frozen custard to the Bay Area, a growing group that includes \u003ca href=\"http://www.flavorbrigade.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Flavor Brigade\u003c/a> in Oakland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.thevelvetscoop.com/\" target=\"_blank\">The Velvet Scoop\u003c/a> in San Francisco, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ritasfranchises.com/stores/store.cfm/Castro%20Valley-94546/store/2895\" target=\"_blank\">Rita’s\u003c/a> in Castro Valley, and food trucks like \u003ca href=\"http://www.lexiesfrozencustard.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Lexie's Frozen Custard,\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://www.frozenkuhsterd.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Frozen Kuhsterd \u003c/a>and \u003ca href=\"http://izzyafrozenicecreamcustard.com/index.html\" target=\"_blank\">IzzyA's\u003c/a>. Armed with patient explanations and lots of egg yolks, they’re introducing the ice cream lovers of the Bay Area to the pleasures of custards, concretes and gelati. And they’re not the only ones who’ve recognized custard’s potential in the Bay Area. In February, East Coast custard and Italian ice chain \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/2015/2/12/8027175/ritas-italian-ice-northern-california-60-locations\" target=\"_blank\">Rita’s announced\u003c/a> their plans to open 60 stores in Northern California over the next few years. And later that month, Oakland-born \u003ca href=\"http://www.dreyers.com/FrozenCustard\" target=\"_blank\">Dreyer's introduced \u003c/a>a line of packaged frozen custards coming to a freezer aisle near you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, what is this beloved treat? Frozen custard is a form of ice cream that's denser and richer than your typical pint, and is governed by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/cfrsearch.cfm?fr=135.110\" target=\"_blank\">FDA’s strict rules\u003c/a>, which ensure that custard is always made with at least 1.4 egg yolk solids by weight, giving it a silky richness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98624\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2.jpg\" alt=\"A cone at the Velvet Scoop in the Mission.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1276\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98624\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-1440x957.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-1400x930.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-1180x784.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/High_Res_Rainbow_fc_cone-2-960x638.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A cone at the Velvet Scoop in the Mission. \u003ccite>(Velvet Scoop)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It also has less air whipped into it than ice cream. When making ice cream, the percent of volume increase due to the air added is referred to \u003ca href=\"http://www.idfa.org/news-views/media-kits/ice-cream/ice-cream-labeling\" target=\"_blank\">as overrun.\u003c/a> While ice cream can have up to 100% overrun (meaning that half the volume of your pint of butter pecan is air), frozen custard typically has much less (around 20-25%), making it dense smoothness. Since it’s typically made to order and never frozen, it also has the easier to eat texture of soft serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Frozen custard was invented in 1919 when Coney Island ice cream sellers Archie and Elton Kohr \u003ca href=\"http://www.kohrbros.com/coney.html\" target=\"_blank\">added egg to their ice cream\u003c/a> to keep their product from melting too quickly. It was successful and the dessert got a boost in 1933 when it was exhibited at the Chicago World’s Fair. The dessert spread around the country, becoming \u003ca href=\"http://ediblemilwaukee.com/vintage-eats/how-milwaukee-earned-its-custard-crown/\" target=\"_blank\">especially popular\u003c/a> in Milwaukee, where it has become a regional treat aided by the state’s robust dairy industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98625\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2.jpg\" alt=\"Flavor Brigade's slogan: "Philly's Best Now Available in the West"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1199\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98625\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-400x250.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-800x500.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-1440x899.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-1400x874.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-1180x737.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/20150725_161059-2-960x600.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Flavor Brigade's slogan: \"Philly's Best Now Available in the West\" \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Most of the Bay Area custard shops have Midwestern roots. Oakland’s Flavor Brigade, the Bay Area’s first custard shop, was started in 2010 by childhood friends Braedon Galloway and Justin Mruskovic from Philadelphia who couldn’t find any good custard options after moving to the area. Their venture proved so successful that they opened a second shop in Pleasanton earlier this month. Velvet Scoop owner Zoe Madigan grew up making frozen custard with her grandparents in Illinois and eventually left her tech job to open up her shop in the Mission last year. And after Milwaukee native Tom Tankka introduced his wife Tina to the city’s famous \u003ca href=\"https://www.kopps.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Kopp’s Frozen Custard\u003c/a>, she fell in love with the dessert, and the two decided to start a frozen custard food truck last year, where they offer flavors more unusual than the typical chocolate and vanilla: mojito lime rickey custard, strawberry apricot sorbet, and boba frozen custard floats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the new shops aren’t just offering custard. Frozen custard has a whole entourage of desserts that go with it. There’s the concrete, which the Velvet Scoop specializes in: a generous amount of creamy soft serve combined with toppings like Nutella, cornflakes or butterscotch, that’s thick enough to be \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/the-velvet-scoop-san-francisco#XrlogBW2Ki-VzwDP3evTHA\" target=\"_blank\">served upside down\u003c/a>. Then there’s the gelati-- fruit flavored Italian ice topped with custard, typically vanilla, custard--that the chain Rita’s, which has a location in Castro Valley, offers. Flavor Brigade has something similar called the Mummers Mix, named for Philadelphia's colorful New Year’s Day \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mummers_Parade\" target=\"_blank\">parade\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s been easy for the Bay Area shops to gain momentum: there’s a built-in audience of Midwestern transplants eager for their cherished custard: “A long-running joke at The Velvet Scoop is that we’ve met every San Franciscan with roots in Milwaukee, St. Louis, and Chicago, the modern-day frozen custard capital cities,” Velvet Scoop’s Zoe Madigan said in an email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s the natives that take a little more convincing. “Some people come and say, ‘Is this custard, like pudding?’” said Tina Tankka. But while bringing custard to the Bay may require a little more explanation, the shop owners say it’s quickly converting us locals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98627\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609.jpg\" alt=\"A 2nd Street from Oakland's Flavor Brigade.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1676\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98627\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-400x349.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-800x698.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-1440x1257.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-1400x1222.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-1180x1030.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/DSC_0609-960x838.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A 2nd Street from Oakland's Flavor Brigade. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We serve frozen custard to everyone from giggly youth soccer teams, to chatty book clubs, people who’ve lived in The Mission for generations, newcomers, business people, artists, musicians, families, friends, tourists, techies, and everyone in between. Collectively, our staff speaks English, Spanish, Chinese, and French; we’ve served customers in each of those languages,” Madigan said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some of them ask, is it ice cream? No, we say. It’s better than ice cream,” Tankka said. “Then we give them a taste. We insist on the tasting. And once they have a taste, they’re hooked.”\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Over the past decade, blueberries have become \u003ca href=\"http://www.oregonlive.com/business/index.ssf/2015/02/exploding_blueberry_industry_p.html\">big business\u003c/a> in the U.S. In 1998, the Oregon blueberry harvest was 17 million pounds. By 2013, blueberry production had catapulted to 90 million pounds, on track to reach 150 million over the next five years. Blueberries are certainly delicious and nutritious, but how much of the Pacific Northwest’s $94-billion-a-year industry can be attributed to the humble fruit’s makeover—by dieticians, cookbook authors, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.doctoroz.com/recipe/rainbow-superfood-salad-wild-blueberry-and-balsamic\">celebrity doctors\u003c/a>—into a \u003ca href=\"http://www.webmd.com/diet/superfoods-everyone-needs\">superfood\u003c/a>?\u003cspan id=\"more-22706\">\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dozens of diet books with “superfood” in the title have been published over the last \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_pg_1?rh=n%3A283155%2Ck%3Asuperfoods&keywords=superfoods&ie=UTF8&qid=1437518954\">decade\u003c/a>. Some so-called superfoods are common: Beans, apples, tea, broccoli. There are also the imported “miracle” berries and roots: açaí, goji, maca. More recently, dragonfruit, \u003ca href=\"http://theplate.nationalgeographic.com/2015/07/22/can-breadfruit-overcome-its-past-to-be-a-superfood-of-the-future/\">breadfruit\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.wisegeek.org/what-is-mangosteen-juice.htm\">mangosteen\u003c/a> were declared nutritional miracle foods. The label often leads to a sales bump; in 2011, the top-selling superfruits brought in \u003ca href=\"http://www.cnbc.com/id/42933056\">more than $205 million\u003c/a>. That’s a lot of money spent on nutrient-rich foods that flaunt a label with no official definition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Are some fruits and vegetable really far superior to the rest? The answer depends on who you ask.. \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodpolitics.com/\">Marion Nestle\u003c/a>, the author of What to Eat and a professor of nutrition at New York University, told the \u003ci>Washington Post\u003c/i> that she \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food/superfoods-in-play-we-challenge-chefs-to-design-recipes-using-nutritious-ingredients/2014/01/13/56e0b460-772a-11e3-b1c5-739e63e9c9a7_story.html\">doesn’t believe in superfoods.\u003c/a>On her blog, Nestle \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodpolitics.com/2009/03/what-do-i-think-of-acai/\">denounced the MonaVie brand\u003c/a> that was selling acai juice for $40 a bottle in 2009. “The bottom line: all juices have antioxidants and most are a lot cheaper than MonaVie,” wrote Nestle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Registered dietician Andy Bellatti agrees that the superfoods label is all about marketing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The field of nutrition is primed for these gimmicks because manufacturers know there are a lot of people looking for silver bullets,” says Bellatti. “The term ‘superfood’ as we know it today is silly because it is basically code for ‘grown 15,000 miles away in a remote mountain range and sold at a premium.’ As far as I am concerned, all whole, minimally processed, plant-based foods are superfoods. Are goji berries healthy? Sure. So is an orange.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The origin of the superfoods label is as murky as the scientific evidence for their nutritional superiority. The label’s first use has most often been \u003ca href=\"http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2014/jan/16/do-superfoods-really-exist-antioxidants\">attributed\u003c/a> to Michael Van Straten, an alternative medicine practitioner and author of \u003ci>Superfoods\u003c/i>, an out-of-print cookbook from 1990. Others point to \u003ci>SuperFoods Rx: Fourteen Foods That Will Change Your Life\u003c/i>, a 2003 best-selling book by Dr. Steven Pratt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A recent article in Slate chronicled how, in the early 20th century, the United Fruit Co. \u003ca href=\"http://www.slate.com/articles/health_and_science/science/2015/04/the_first_superfood_doctors_believed_bananas_could_cure_celiac_disease.html\">transformed the banana\u003c/a> into a weight-loss promoting superfruit through relentless marketing. The bananas and milk diet might have gone the way of flapper dresses, but is that fad diet really so different than drinking a daily goji berry smoothie?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the “natural” label, the superfoods \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/09/12/can-you-trust-the-natural-label/\">designation is unregulated\u003c/a>, meaning the label can be slapped onto just about any product. Indeed, there is \u003ca href=\"http://www.eufic.org/article/en/artid/The-science-behind-superfoods/\">no official or legal definition\u003c/a> of superfoods. In 2007 the European Union (EU) \u003ca href=\"http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/health/6252390.stm\">banned\u003c/a> the use of superfood on product labels for just this reason. Now, foods can only sport that label there if sellers can provide a specific, authorized health claim that explains to consumers exactly how the product can benefit their health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the U.S., where the label remains unregulated, food marketers’ efforts to stay ahead of the curve verge on comical. In anticipation that kale chips would \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnavigator-usa.com/Manufacturers/Rhythm-Superfood-CEO-worries-if-kale-will-jump-shark-in-natural-stores\">jump the shark\u003c/a>, one snack food company recently debuted a new line of chips made from purple corn, which they claimed had more “antioxidant power than blueberries, acai berries, and pomegranate juice.” And while this \u003ca href=\"http://mobile.foodnavigator-usa.com/Markets/The-color-purple-Suntava-launches-mission-to-elevate-purple-corn-to-superfood-status\">may be true\u003c/a>, it might not mean what some consumers think it does.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ten years ago, sales of acai berry juice skyrocketed, mostly due to claims that the tiny purple fruit from South America contains impressively high antioxidant levels. And yet, In 2012, the anti-aging and disease-fighting benefits of antioxidants, particularly in \u003ca href=\"http://www.cochrane.org/CD007176/LIVER_antioxidant-supplements-for-prevention-of-mortality-in-healthy-participants-and-patients-with-various-diseases\">supplement form\u003c/a>, were \u003ca href=\"http://www.abc.net.au/health/features/stories/2013/10/01/3859751.htm\">called into question\u003c/a>. In a surprising turn of events, some nutritional intervention trials have found that certain antioxidants have \u003ca href=\"http://rsob.royalsocietypublishing.org/content/3/1/120144\">no obvious effect\u003c/a> in preventing certain cancers, and in some cases, can actually aggravate them. “Blueberries best be eaten [sic] because they taste good, not because their consumption will lead to less cancer,” writes Nobel Laureate Professor James Watson in a \u003ca href=\"http://rsob.royalsocietypublishing.org/content/3/1/120144\">controversial paper\u003c/a> published by The Royal Society.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>None of that stopped the demand for acai products; In 2013, Sambazon, the Southern California-based company credited with popularizing acai drinks in the U.S., was worth over \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnavigator-usa.com/Manufacturers/Surfing-super-fruits-and-social-justice-Sambazon-and-the-genesis-of-an-Amazonian-super-food-empire\">$100 million in retail sales\u003c/a>. Nor did it stop exaggerated health claims by \u003ca href=\"http://www.nbcnews.com/id/38958053/ns/business-consumer_news/t/acai-berry-scam-youll-lose-money-not-weight/\">sneaky diet profiteers\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, the popularity–and sales–of superfoods have benefited from the support of some big names. \u003ca href=\"http://drhyman.com/\">Dr. Mark Hyman\u003c/a>, Director of the Cleveland Clinic Center of Functional Medicine and author of eight best-selling books on diet and nutrition, views the superfoods label in a positive light.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Plants are filled with phytochemicals that have profound biologic effects,” he told Civil Eats. ” ‘Superfood’ is a new way to talk about the healing [power] in nutrient-dense food that goes beyond vitamins, minerals, fats, carbohydrates, and protein.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Certain foods, especially those with organic labels, benefit from a “health halo,” according to a 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://foodpsychology.cornell.edu/content/you-taste-what-you-see-do-organic-labels-bias-taste-perceptions\">study\u003c/a> by researchers at the Cornell University Food and Brand Lab. In consumer trials, consumers credit these foods with more nutrients and better flavor, in turn leading individuals to report a willingness to pay higher prices for such foods. Brian Wansink, Ph.D and director of the Food and Brand Lab, says that the apparent halo around superfoods may also be misleading for other reasons too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Blueberry sales certainly do benefit from functional scientific claims, but the ‘health halo’ effect becomes dangerous when foods that are less clearly healthy for you are associated with something considered healthy–like muffins made with organic flour,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most experts seem to point to the idea that fruits and vegetables–super or not–are what constitute a healthy diet. “If you genuinely enjoy mangosteen, by all means eat some,” says Bellatti. “But don’t fool yourself into thinking that a mangosteen is superior to a blackberry or a pear.”\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"nprByline": "\u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/author/lclark/\" target=\"_blank\">Leilani Clark\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/civileat/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Over the past decade, blueberries have become \u003ca href=\"http://www.oregonlive.com/business/index.ssf/2015/02/exploding_blueberry_industry_p.html\">big business\u003c/a> in the U.S. In 1998, the Oregon blueberry harvest was 17 million pounds. By 2013, blueberry production had catapulted to 90 million pounds, on track to reach 150 million over the next five years. Blueberries are certainly delicious and nutritious, but how much of the Pacific Northwest’s $94-billion-a-year industry can be attributed to the humble fruit’s makeover—by dieticians, cookbook authors, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.doctoroz.com/recipe/rainbow-superfood-salad-wild-blueberry-and-balsamic\">celebrity doctors\u003c/a>—into a \u003ca href=\"http://www.webmd.com/diet/superfoods-everyone-needs\">superfood\u003c/a>?\u003cspan id=\"more-22706\">\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dozens of diet books with “superfood” in the title have been published over the last \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_pg_1?rh=n%3A283155%2Ck%3Asuperfoods&keywords=superfoods&ie=UTF8&qid=1437518954\">decade\u003c/a>. Some so-called superfoods are common: Beans, apples, tea, broccoli. There are also the imported “miracle” berries and roots: açaí, goji, maca. More recently, dragonfruit, \u003ca href=\"http://theplate.nationalgeographic.com/2015/07/22/can-breadfruit-overcome-its-past-to-be-a-superfood-of-the-future/\">breadfruit\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.wisegeek.org/what-is-mangosteen-juice.htm\">mangosteen\u003c/a> were declared nutritional miracle foods. The label often leads to a sales bump; in 2011, the top-selling superfruits brought in \u003ca href=\"http://www.cnbc.com/id/42933056\">more than $205 million\u003c/a>. That’s a lot of money spent on nutrient-rich foods that flaunt a label with no official definition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Are some fruits and vegetable really far superior to the rest? The answer depends on who you ask.. \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodpolitics.com/\">Marion Nestle\u003c/a>, the author of What to Eat and a professor of nutrition at New York University, told the \u003ci>Washington Post\u003c/i> that she \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food/superfoods-in-play-we-challenge-chefs-to-design-recipes-using-nutritious-ingredients/2014/01/13/56e0b460-772a-11e3-b1c5-739e63e9c9a7_story.html\">doesn’t believe in superfoods.\u003c/a>On her blog, Nestle \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodpolitics.com/2009/03/what-do-i-think-of-acai/\">denounced the MonaVie brand\u003c/a> that was selling acai juice for $40 a bottle in 2009. “The bottom line: all juices have antioxidants and most are a lot cheaper than MonaVie,” wrote Nestle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Registered dietician Andy Bellatti agrees that the superfoods label is all about marketing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The field of nutrition is primed for these gimmicks because manufacturers know there are a lot of people looking for silver bullets,” says Bellatti. “The term ‘superfood’ as we know it today is silly because it is basically code for ‘grown 15,000 miles away in a remote mountain range and sold at a premium.’ As far as I am concerned, all whole, minimally processed, plant-based foods are superfoods. Are goji berries healthy? Sure. So is an orange.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The origin of the superfoods label is as murky as the scientific evidence for their nutritional superiority. The label’s first use has most often been \u003ca href=\"http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2014/jan/16/do-superfoods-really-exist-antioxidants\">attributed\u003c/a> to Michael Van Straten, an alternative medicine practitioner and author of \u003ci>Superfoods\u003c/i>, an out-of-print cookbook from 1990. Others point to \u003ci>SuperFoods Rx: Fourteen Foods That Will Change Your Life\u003c/i>, a 2003 best-selling book by Dr. Steven Pratt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A recent article in Slate chronicled how, in the early 20th century, the United Fruit Co. \u003ca href=\"http://www.slate.com/articles/health_and_science/science/2015/04/the_first_superfood_doctors_believed_bananas_could_cure_celiac_disease.html\">transformed the banana\u003c/a> into a weight-loss promoting superfruit through relentless marketing. The bananas and milk diet might have gone the way of flapper dresses, but is that fad diet really so different than drinking a daily goji berry smoothie?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the “natural” label, the superfoods \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/09/12/can-you-trust-the-natural-label/\">designation is unregulated\u003c/a>, meaning the label can be slapped onto just about any product. Indeed, there is \u003ca href=\"http://www.eufic.org/article/en/artid/The-science-behind-superfoods/\">no official or legal definition\u003c/a> of superfoods. In 2007 the European Union (EU) \u003ca href=\"http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/health/6252390.stm\">banned\u003c/a> the use of superfood on product labels for just this reason. Now, foods can only sport that label there if sellers can provide a specific, authorized health claim that explains to consumers exactly how the product can benefit their health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the U.S., where the label remains unregulated, food marketers’ efforts to stay ahead of the curve verge on comical. In anticipation that kale chips would \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnavigator-usa.com/Manufacturers/Rhythm-Superfood-CEO-worries-if-kale-will-jump-shark-in-natural-stores\">jump the shark\u003c/a>, one snack food company recently debuted a new line of chips made from purple corn, which they claimed had more “antioxidant power than blueberries, acai berries, and pomegranate juice.” And while this \u003ca href=\"http://mobile.foodnavigator-usa.com/Markets/The-color-purple-Suntava-launches-mission-to-elevate-purple-corn-to-superfood-status\">may be true\u003c/a>, it might not mean what some consumers think it does.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ten years ago, sales of acai berry juice skyrocketed, mostly due to claims that the tiny purple fruit from South America contains impressively high antioxidant levels. And yet, In 2012, the anti-aging and disease-fighting benefits of antioxidants, particularly in \u003ca href=\"http://www.cochrane.org/CD007176/LIVER_antioxidant-supplements-for-prevention-of-mortality-in-healthy-participants-and-patients-with-various-diseases\">supplement form\u003c/a>, were \u003ca href=\"http://www.abc.net.au/health/features/stories/2013/10/01/3859751.htm\">called into question\u003c/a>. In a surprising turn of events, some nutritional intervention trials have found that certain antioxidants have \u003ca href=\"http://rsob.royalsocietypublishing.org/content/3/1/120144\">no obvious effect\u003c/a> in preventing certain cancers, and in some cases, can actually aggravate them. “Blueberries best be eaten [sic] because they taste good, not because their consumption will lead to less cancer,” writes Nobel Laureate Professor James Watson in a \u003ca href=\"http://rsob.royalsocietypublishing.org/content/3/1/120144\">controversial paper\u003c/a> published by The Royal Society.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>None of that stopped the demand for acai products; In 2013, Sambazon, the Southern California-based company credited with popularizing acai drinks in the U.S., was worth over \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnavigator-usa.com/Manufacturers/Surfing-super-fruits-and-social-justice-Sambazon-and-the-genesis-of-an-Amazonian-super-food-empire\">$100 million in retail sales\u003c/a>. Nor did it stop exaggerated health claims by \u003ca href=\"http://www.nbcnews.com/id/38958053/ns/business-consumer_news/t/acai-berry-scam-youll-lose-money-not-weight/\">sneaky diet profiteers\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, the popularity–and sales–of superfoods have benefited from the support of some big names. \u003ca href=\"http://drhyman.com/\">Dr. Mark Hyman\u003c/a>, Director of the Cleveland Clinic Center of Functional Medicine and author of eight best-selling books on diet and nutrition, views the superfoods label in a positive light.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Plants are filled with phytochemicals that have profound biologic effects,” he told Civil Eats. ” ‘Superfood’ is a new way to talk about the healing [power] in nutrient-dense food that goes beyond vitamins, minerals, fats, carbohydrates, and protein.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Certain foods, especially those with organic labels, benefit from a “health halo,” according to a 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://foodpsychology.cornell.edu/content/you-taste-what-you-see-do-organic-labels-bias-taste-perceptions\">study\u003c/a> by researchers at the Cornell University Food and Brand Lab. In consumer trials, consumers credit these foods with more nutrients and better flavor, in turn leading individuals to report a willingness to pay higher prices for such foods. Brian Wansink, Ph.D and director of the Food and Brand Lab, says that the apparent halo around superfoods may also be misleading for other reasons too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Blueberry sales certainly do benefit from functional scientific claims, but the ‘health halo’ effect becomes dangerous when foods that are less clearly healthy for you are associated with something considered healthy–like muffins made with organic flour,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most experts seem to point to the idea that fruits and vegetables–super or not–are what constitute a healthy diet. “If you genuinely enjoy mangosteen, by all means eat some,” says Bellatti. “But don’t fool yourself into thinking that a mangosteen is superior to a blackberry or a pear.”\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Eggs Go AWOL, And Bakers Scramble For High-Tech Substitutes",
"title": "Eggs Go AWOL, And Bakers Scramble For High-Tech Substitutes",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2015/07/20150722_atc_eggs_go_awol_and_bakers_scramble_for_high-tech_substitutes.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Strolling through the annual meeting of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.am-fe.ift.org/cms/\">Institute of Food Technologists\u003c/a> the other day, I saw several signs offering to solve an urgent problem facing American bakers. The signs advertised \"egg replacement.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a hot business right now, because eggs are in critically \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/06/10/413206232/for-bakers-and-restaurants-egg-supply-is-getting-ugly\">short supply\u003c/a>. Millions of egg-laying hens died this past spring as a result of \u003ca href=\"http://www.aphis.usda.gov/wps/portal/aphis/ourfocus/animalhealth/sa_animal_disease_information/sa_avian_health/ct_avian_influenza_disease/!ut/p/a1/lVFNc4IwEP0tHnpkEgH5OPrRCla0U6cquWTWAJIpBAaCjv31DWo79iBtc9vd97L73kMEbRERcOB7kLwQkLU1sehs6en9Edb96cp9xP5i_RQ4c9tYeqYChAqA77wh_slfPvtWy3_FI2_SxysDbRBBhAlZyhSFUKa8pqwQMhaSZnxXQXV6wDXQoqloUrCmPlcgeA4ZTWPIZHrbiXgdQx1TLpKiys8iLuMDB_GNZ_LaULCsicUHfBHbY0rGIxTudDfBlh5rhtMHzWQ7Q4MBDDR9ECVRxJhtGPZVfIe6X8w7i1eQ8XTomfZcGWY6OvYnim67Aca-dQV0-BuqG-y7S1wTrf4pavaHyPUqGAd79S3IVGvNRtvOEC7jmxDQtiOEzQiRQ3NcT46ozN9yxzhp78lioZHwxR_2ep_RA_Y1/?1dmy&urile=wcm%3apath%3a%2Faphis_content_library%2Fsa_our_focus%2Fsa_animal_health%2Fsa_animal_disease_information%2Fsa_avian_health%2Fsa_detections_by_states%2Fct_ai_pacific_flyway\">avian flu\u003c/a>, and egg prices have doubled. Liquid egg products, which the baking industry uses, are especially hard to find.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"All of a sudden, [baking] companies were being told they're not going to have supply. Their phones are ringing, and then our phones started ringing,\" says Nicole Rees, a manager of business development for \u003ca href=\"http://www.glanbianutritionals.com/\">Glanbia Nutritionals\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Glanbia is one of a \u003ca href=\"http://www.snackandbakery.com/articles/88007-egg-replacements-to-the-rescue/\">dozen or so\u003c/a> companies selling ingredients that can take the place of eggs. The difficult part, Rees explains, is duplicating all the different things that an egg can do. The yolk delivers moisture and richness. The egg white creates the structure in a sponge cake. And that's before you even get to flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's so primal to baking and our food system, so to remove it requires a lot of work behind the scenes that no one sees,\" says Rees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The easy part, she says, is replacing the yolk. You need an emulsifier — something that helps oils mix with other ingredients. Glanbia uses a gum-like substance extracted from flax seed. \"It can behave like guar gum, or xanthan gum. Or some of the emulsifiers that you see out on the market: sodium stearoyl lactylate; GMS-90,\" Rees says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But food companies would much rather put \"flax\" on their list of ingredient, instead of sodium stearoyl lactylate. Shoppers want what the industry calls \"clean labels\" these days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hard part of egg replacement, Rees says, is coming up with a substitute for the protein in egg whites, especially in foods like angel food cake, where it's really important.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For this, some companies use protein from the whey that's a byproduct of making cheese. Others use bean protein; others, protein from algae.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rees says that these products can get close to egg white, but it's never a perfect match. \"Can we replace 100 percent of eggs in an angel food cake, the egg white? And make an angel food cake? Is it identical? No. Is it a cake? Yes,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then there's the final piece: the flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For that, companies turn to flavor chemists like Michael Walsh, who works for Glanbia's flavor group, called Flavor Artistry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Walsh, flavor chemistry is, in fact, art. \"If you look at it like a painter, a painter has a palette of colors, and he's going to blend them together. Or a musician has a bunch of different notes. Flavor is very much the same. Each flavor component is a note,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a symphony of flavor notes in each food. Some come from the egg itself; others are created in the cooking process. Walsh's job is to use the notes at his disposal — hundreds of flavor extracts, mostly distilled from products of nature — to recreate the smell and flavor of the original.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He comes up with an egg flavor formula, usually including anywhere from 10 to 20 different flavor extracts. The formula may be a bit different, depending if it's for a sponge cake or a custard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Glanbia will add this flavor combination to the rest of the egg replacement product, which contains the flax and the whey protein.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Together, they're ready for their starring role in some commercial bakery, appearing as a collective understudy for the simple egg. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The national egg shortage is hitting bakers hard. Some are replacing eggs with highly engineered ingredients that promise to work just as well.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2015/07/20150722_atc_eggs_go_awol_and_bakers_scramble_for_high-tech_substitutes.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Strolling through the annual meeting of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.am-fe.ift.org/cms/\">Institute of Food Technologists\u003c/a> the other day, I saw several signs offering to solve an urgent problem facing American bakers. The signs advertised \"egg replacement.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a hot business right now, because eggs are in critically \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/06/10/413206232/for-bakers-and-restaurants-egg-supply-is-getting-ugly\">short supply\u003c/a>. Millions of egg-laying hens died this past spring as a result of \u003ca href=\"http://www.aphis.usda.gov/wps/portal/aphis/ourfocus/animalhealth/sa_animal_disease_information/sa_avian_health/ct_avian_influenza_disease/!ut/p/a1/lVFNc4IwEP0tHnpkEgH5OPrRCla0U6cquWTWAJIpBAaCjv31DWo79iBtc9vd97L73kMEbRERcOB7kLwQkLU1sehs6en9Edb96cp9xP5i_RQ4c9tYeqYChAqA77wh_slfPvtWy3_FI2_SxysDbRBBhAlZyhSFUKa8pqwQMhaSZnxXQXV6wDXQoqloUrCmPlcgeA4ZTWPIZHrbiXgdQx1TLpKiys8iLuMDB_GNZ_LaULCsicUHfBHbY0rGIxTudDfBlh5rhtMHzWQ7Q4MBDDR9ECVRxJhtGPZVfIe6X8w7i1eQ8XTomfZcGWY6OvYnim67Aca-dQV0-BuqG-y7S1wTrf4pavaHyPUqGAd79S3IVGvNRtvOEC7jmxDQtiOEzQiRQ3NcT46ozN9yxzhp78lioZHwxR_2ep_RA_Y1/?1dmy&urile=wcm%3apath%3a%2Faphis_content_library%2Fsa_our_focus%2Fsa_animal_health%2Fsa_animal_disease_information%2Fsa_avian_health%2Fsa_detections_by_states%2Fct_ai_pacific_flyway\">avian flu\u003c/a>, and egg prices have doubled. Liquid egg products, which the baking industry uses, are especially hard to find.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"All of a sudden, [baking] companies were being told they're not going to have supply. Their phones are ringing, and then our phones started ringing,\" says Nicole Rees, a manager of business development for \u003ca href=\"http://www.glanbianutritionals.com/\">Glanbia Nutritionals\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Glanbia is one of a \u003ca href=\"http://www.snackandbakery.com/articles/88007-egg-replacements-to-the-rescue/\">dozen or so\u003c/a> companies selling ingredients that can take the place of eggs. The difficult part, Rees explains, is duplicating all the different things that an egg can do. The yolk delivers moisture and richness. The egg white creates the structure in a sponge cake. And that's before you even get to flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's so primal to baking and our food system, so to remove it requires a lot of work behind the scenes that no one sees,\" says Rees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The easy part, she says, is replacing the yolk. You need an emulsifier — something that helps oils mix with other ingredients. Glanbia uses a gum-like substance extracted from flax seed. \"It can behave like guar gum, or xanthan gum. Or some of the emulsifiers that you see out on the market: sodium stearoyl lactylate; GMS-90,\" Rees says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But food companies would much rather put \"flax\" on their list of ingredient, instead of sodium stearoyl lactylate. Shoppers want what the industry calls \"clean labels\" these days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hard part of egg replacement, Rees says, is coming up with a substitute for the protein in egg whites, especially in foods like angel food cake, where it's really important.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For this, some companies use protein from the whey that's a byproduct of making cheese. Others use bean protein; others, protein from algae.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rees says that these products can get close to egg white, but it's never a perfect match. \"Can we replace 100 percent of eggs in an angel food cake, the egg white? And make an angel food cake? Is it identical? No. Is it a cake? Yes,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then there's the final piece: the flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For that, companies turn to flavor chemists like Michael Walsh, who works for Glanbia's flavor group, called Flavor Artistry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Walsh, flavor chemistry is, in fact, art. \"If you look at it like a painter, a painter has a palette of colors, and he's going to blend them together. Or a musician has a bunch of different notes. Flavor is very much the same. Each flavor component is a note,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a symphony of flavor notes in each food. Some come from the egg itself; others are created in the cooking process. Walsh's job is to use the notes at his disposal — hundreds of flavor extracts, mostly distilled from products of nature — to recreate the smell and flavor of the original.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He comes up with an egg flavor formula, usually including anywhere from 10 to 20 different flavor extracts. The formula may be a bit different, depending if it's for a sponge cake or a custard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Glanbia will add this flavor combination to the rest of the egg replacement product, which contains the flax and the whey protein.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Together, they're ready for their starring role in some commercial bakery, appearing as a collective understudy for the simple egg. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Goodbye Tipping, Hello Living Wage: The Changing Face of Progressive Restaurants",
"title": "Goodbye Tipping, Hello Living Wage: The Changing Face of Progressive Restaurants",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>A new message appearing at the top of the menu at Camino, a high-end restaurant in Oakland, California, \u003ca href=\"http://www.caminorestaurant.com/no-tips\" target=\"_blank\">declares the end of an age-old American practice\u003c/a>. “No more tips!” it reads. “Our prices now include service so we can pay our employees a living wage.”\u003cspan id=\"more-22668\">\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new prices—which have gone up 22 percent, and which now range from $29 to $37—and the restaurant’s corresponding tipping policy went into effect earlier this year, around the time the city’s minimum wage rose 36 percent to $12.25. And the two are related. While the new policy probably won’t put more into pockets of Camino’s decently paid servers, it will do something quietly revolutionary: it will help them offer a living wage to their (traditionally underpaid) cooks, dishwashers, and bussers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Camino’s husband-and-wife co-owners Russell Moore and Allison Hopelain shared their philosophy on the restaurant’s website: “We have tried to instill a sense of teamwork at Camino—a place where each member of the team—waiters, bartenders, cooks, hosts and dishwashers—is all involved in serving our guests. And yet, we have been paying them as if we are running two separate businesses.” But the new policy changes all that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A server working on a recent weekend seemed optimistic, although she has the least to lose from the new arrangement. Her new hourly wage is livable, she said, even if it means she never walks away with the occasional motherlode of tips in the high season. “If you’re willing to stick it out through the year, it makes up for the lack of big nights in the high season on slow shifts, during the less-crowded times of year,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It means that all employees are paid based on their experience and have\u003cbr>\nroom to grow,” says Hopelain. “We offer any employee who is scheduled for five shifts a week health insurance and we do not cut shifts when we are slow.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While a handful of \u003ca href=\"http://time.com/3890984/cities-highest-minimum-wage-map/\" target=\"_blank\">cities across the country\u003c/a> have plans to raise their minimum wages over the next five years, only a few have put the rubber to the road. Like Oakland and San Francisco, Seattle is taking a tiered approach to raising its minimum wage (i.e., different businesses are required to increase wages at varying rates, depending on their size) with the goal of hitting $15 an hour by 2020. While restaurants are inevitably passing some of these costs on to their customers, many are also taking the opportunity to develop progressive pay models that could begin to level the playing fields between the front and back of the house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raising food prices to replace tipping is only one of the approaches Oakland restaurants are taking to survive the wage hike and redistribute the wealth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At several other restaurants around the city, such as Toast, Boca Nova \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/restaurants/article/Minimum-wage-hike-hits-booming-Oakland-dining-6115583.php\">diners now pay\u003c/a> an added 15 to 20 percent \u003ca href=\"http://www.mercurynews.com/business/ci_27262359/service-charges-instead-tips-being-tried-out-at\" target=\"_blank\">service charge\u003c/a>. Although it doesn’t make a big difference in the final amount paid, service charges might be an easier pill for some customers to swallow than higher menu prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dr. Michael Lynn, a professor of consumer behavior and marketing at the Cornell University School of Hotel Administration, says that his research shows that, “people don’t think about the tip as a part of restaurants’ expensiveness.” The same goes for a service charges, he adds. “So voluntary tipping and service charges are roughly the same in terms of perceptions of cost.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In both cases the goal is to improve living conditions for the lowest paid workers in the chain—while paying their bills and retaining their most valuable employees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>An Industry Rife With Inequality\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The American restaurant industry can be seen as a microcosm for the nation as a whole, in that it has long upheld a strong class divide. On the one hand, you have servers, bartenders, and hosts who run the “front of the house” in high-end restaurants. These jobs are often seen as a means to an end, a notorious way to help finance higher education and beginning careers in the arts, or—in some cases—a path to advance to a higher-profile career in the food world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for back of the house workers, as well as servers in lower-end establishments and most casual chain restaurants (think: the thousands of Red Lobsters and Olive Gardens around the country), that’s simply not the case. The \u003ca href=\"http://www.epi.org/publication/restaurant-workers/\" target=\"_blank\">median hourly wage\u003c/a> in the restaurant industry, including tips, is just $10, compared with $18 outside the restaurant industry. And just as they do in our nation at large, gender and race play an important role in this divide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Restaurant Opportunity Center United\u003c/a>, an advocacy group working for restaurant workers around the nation, the median wage among white restaurant workers is almost \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/research-resources/\">$4 per hour higher\u003c/a> than the median wage among restaurant workers of color, who are most likely to work the lowest-paying positions like cashiers. Similarly, ROC says female restaurant workers “suffer a 21.8 percent gender tax even after experience, education, and English language ability are accounted for.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Saru Jayaraman, director of the \u003ca href=\"http://laborcenter.berkeley.edu/topic/food-labor-research-center/\" target=\"_blank\">Food Labor Research Center\u003c/a> at University of California at Berkeley and co-director of ROC United, “Seventy percent of tipped workers are women–women who suffer from deep poverty.” In fact, \u003ca href=\"http://www.epi.org/publication/restaurant-workers/\" target=\"_blank\">one in six\u003c/a> restaurant workers lives below the poverty line. Furthermore, the current approach to paying tipped workers tends to compound these problems. While a handful of states don’t differentiate between the minimum wage for tipped and non-tipped workers, many pay \u003ca href=\"http://www.dol.gov/whd/state/tipped.htm\" target=\"_blank\">them much less\u003c/a>, and the federal minimum has \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/one-fair-wage/national/\" target=\"_blank\">been $2.13 since 1991\u003c/a>. (ROC United has been campaigning to \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/one-fair-wage/\" target=\"_blank\">do away with tipped minimum wage entirely\u003c/a> in recent years.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Can Fair Wage Pioneers Survive the Jump?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In light of this context, the move away from tipping appears all the more progressive. But the big question is: Will the restaurants working the hardest to level the playing field for their employees be able to survive the shift?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take Sal Bednarz, owner of Actual Café and Victory Burger, a side-by-side café and casual grass-fed burger joint in Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“All of our employees are making more than they were, but it’s our kitchen workers who have benefited considerably,” he says. “They’re happy about that—we’re happy about that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bednarz says he raised his prices by 9 percent to account for the wage increase, and after an initial uptick in business, he’s seen what he calls “softness in certain areas of business,” including the café’s counter lunch and breakfast service, which he says are more price sensitive than the table service they offer in the evenings. He hasn’t moved to a service charge because, he says, it just isn’t possible for counter service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Actual Café’s location hasn’t helped either. “We’re a block away from the city of Emeryville and a few blocks from Berkeley,” Bednarz. “The fact that our minimum wage went up before those other cities meant that some of our most price-sensitive customers probably went elsewhere for their lattés.” In the long term, he says, he trusts that those cities will follow suit with higher wages, but Bednarz is nervous about the long-term viability of his and other small businesses that run on extremely tight margins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I believe that the long-term macro-economic forces at work here will put more money into lots of workers’ pockets and wages will go up everywhere, creating more disposable income for folks. And retail prices will go up as a result of folks paying higher wages. So I’m not sure which will be the stronger force. We may end up paying our workers more, but they’ll have less spending power in the end. It’s too early to tell.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Footing the Bill\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Seattle, several restaurants are responding to the city’s recent wage increases and getting out ahead of the coming ones, including casual seafood restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.king5.com/story/news/local/seattle/2015/03/30/ivars-seattle-15-minimum-wage/70681252/\" target=\"_blank\">Ivar’s\u003c/a> and the higher-end \u003ca href=\"https://eatseacreatures.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Sea Creatures\u003c/a> chain, which have both gotten rid of tips and brought all their workers up to at least $15 an hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The decision, says Sea Creatures co-owner Jeremy Price, came as a result of a combination of the rising city wages, the need to provide health insurance for their workers via the Affordable Care Act, and a philosophy that he describes as “not loving tips in the first place.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All the Sea Creatures Restaurants now include a 20 percent service charge, added on to the bill. And there is no longer a space on the credit card slip for tips. Price says his customers have been quick to adapt to the change, and some even leave small cash tips when they are especially happy with the service. “We’ve had very few complaints,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As at Camino and other Bay Area restaurants, Price and his partners have set up a system that maintains server pay of $31 to $40 an hour (including both wages and a percentage of the service charge), and now servers are also eligible for health insurance and a 401K retirement plan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We didn’t have a ton of cooks making less than $15, but now they are all making at least that,” says Price, who estimates that, “If you aggregate all the cooks, it’s around a 7 percent increase.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Price says the company has seen more people sign up for healthcare and 401K plans than expected. The service charge isn’t covering all of that cost, he says, so Price and his co-owners are taking pay cuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our goal is to attract and retain the best people,” he adds. “So long-term, this is going to be a win for us, and we’re willing to take a pay cut to get there.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, ROC’s Jayaraman says the forward-thinking restaurants she’s encountered feel that investing in their workers pays off in the long term. There’s usually less turnover, she says, which saves costs. But that’s not all. “They also see more invested employees interested in protecting their employers’ bottom lines by reducing things like energy costs, and reducing food waste,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also has the potential to prompt a deeper sense of commitment to the work in other ways. The goal at Sea Creatures, Price says, “is making service work a little more professional, creating a situation where people can treat it like a career.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At a time when the bulk of American workers are seeing \u003ca href=\"http://www.epi.org/publication/charting-wage-stagnation/\" target=\"_blank\">wage stagnation\u003c/a>, increasing income inequality and many employers’ move \u003ca href=\"http://bigstory.ap.org/article/temporary-jobs-rise-todays-shifting-economy\" target=\"_blank\">toward less-formal contract and temporary employment\u003c/a>, this is no small deal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Camino’s Hopewell sees the shift as an opportunity to approach the way her employees work in a whole new way–one that views the restaurant a little more like a single, living organism. “If there is a service issue, we address it as a restaurant concern. It is not just the server who gets a bad tip,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "In cities like Oakland and Seattle, where the minimum wage is on the rise, restaurants are raising prices and rethinking tips as a way to level the playing field for workers. ",
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"description": "In cities like Oakland and Seattle, where the minimum wage is on the rise, restaurants are raising prices and rethinking tips as a way to level the playing field for workers. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>A new message appearing at the top of the menu at Camino, a high-end restaurant in Oakland, California, \u003ca href=\"http://www.caminorestaurant.com/no-tips\" target=\"_blank\">declares the end of an age-old American practice\u003c/a>. “No more tips!” it reads. “Our prices now include service so we can pay our employees a living wage.”\u003cspan id=\"more-22668\">\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new prices—which have gone up 22 percent, and which now range from $29 to $37—and the restaurant’s corresponding tipping policy went into effect earlier this year, around the time the city’s minimum wage rose 36 percent to $12.25. And the two are related. While the new policy probably won’t put more into pockets of Camino’s decently paid servers, it will do something quietly revolutionary: it will help them offer a living wage to their (traditionally underpaid) cooks, dishwashers, and bussers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Camino’s husband-and-wife co-owners Russell Moore and Allison Hopelain shared their philosophy on the restaurant’s website: “We have tried to instill a sense of teamwork at Camino—a place where each member of the team—waiters, bartenders, cooks, hosts and dishwashers—is all involved in serving our guests. And yet, we have been paying them as if we are running two separate businesses.” But the new policy changes all that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A server working on a recent weekend seemed optimistic, although she has the least to lose from the new arrangement. Her new hourly wage is livable, she said, even if it means she never walks away with the occasional motherlode of tips in the high season. “If you’re willing to stick it out through the year, it makes up for the lack of big nights in the high season on slow shifts, during the less-crowded times of year,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It means that all employees are paid based on their experience and have\u003cbr>\nroom to grow,” says Hopelain. “We offer any employee who is scheduled for five shifts a week health insurance and we do not cut shifts when we are slow.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While a handful of \u003ca href=\"http://time.com/3890984/cities-highest-minimum-wage-map/\" target=\"_blank\">cities across the country\u003c/a> have plans to raise their minimum wages over the next five years, only a few have put the rubber to the road. Like Oakland and San Francisco, Seattle is taking a tiered approach to raising its minimum wage (i.e., different businesses are required to increase wages at varying rates, depending on their size) with the goal of hitting $15 an hour by 2020. While restaurants are inevitably passing some of these costs on to their customers, many are also taking the opportunity to develop progressive pay models that could begin to level the playing fields between the front and back of the house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raising food prices to replace tipping is only one of the approaches Oakland restaurants are taking to survive the wage hike and redistribute the wealth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At several other restaurants around the city, such as Toast, Boca Nova \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/restaurants/article/Minimum-wage-hike-hits-booming-Oakland-dining-6115583.php\">diners now pay\u003c/a> an added 15 to 20 percent \u003ca href=\"http://www.mercurynews.com/business/ci_27262359/service-charges-instead-tips-being-tried-out-at\" target=\"_blank\">service charge\u003c/a>. Although it doesn’t make a big difference in the final amount paid, service charges might be an easier pill for some customers to swallow than higher menu prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dr. Michael Lynn, a professor of consumer behavior and marketing at the Cornell University School of Hotel Administration, says that his research shows that, “people don’t think about the tip as a part of restaurants’ expensiveness.” The same goes for a service charges, he adds. “So voluntary tipping and service charges are roughly the same in terms of perceptions of cost.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In both cases the goal is to improve living conditions for the lowest paid workers in the chain—while paying their bills and retaining their most valuable employees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>An Industry Rife With Inequality\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The American restaurant industry can be seen as a microcosm for the nation as a whole, in that it has long upheld a strong class divide. On the one hand, you have servers, bartenders, and hosts who run the “front of the house” in high-end restaurants. These jobs are often seen as a means to an end, a notorious way to help finance higher education and beginning careers in the arts, or—in some cases—a path to advance to a higher-profile career in the food world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for back of the house workers, as well as servers in lower-end establishments and most casual chain restaurants (think: the thousands of Red Lobsters and Olive Gardens around the country), that’s simply not the case. The \u003ca href=\"http://www.epi.org/publication/restaurant-workers/\" target=\"_blank\">median hourly wage\u003c/a> in the restaurant industry, including tips, is just $10, compared with $18 outside the restaurant industry. And just as they do in our nation at large, gender and race play an important role in this divide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Restaurant Opportunity Center United\u003c/a>, an advocacy group working for restaurant workers around the nation, the median wage among white restaurant workers is almost \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/research-resources/\">$4 per hour higher\u003c/a> than the median wage among restaurant workers of color, who are most likely to work the lowest-paying positions like cashiers. Similarly, ROC says female restaurant workers “suffer a 21.8 percent gender tax even after experience, education, and English language ability are accounted for.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Saru Jayaraman, director of the \u003ca href=\"http://laborcenter.berkeley.edu/topic/food-labor-research-center/\" target=\"_blank\">Food Labor Research Center\u003c/a> at University of California at Berkeley and co-director of ROC United, “Seventy percent of tipped workers are women–women who suffer from deep poverty.” In fact, \u003ca href=\"http://www.epi.org/publication/restaurant-workers/\" target=\"_blank\">one in six\u003c/a> restaurant workers lives below the poverty line. Furthermore, the current approach to paying tipped workers tends to compound these problems. While a handful of states don’t differentiate between the minimum wage for tipped and non-tipped workers, many pay \u003ca href=\"http://www.dol.gov/whd/state/tipped.htm\" target=\"_blank\">them much less\u003c/a>, and the federal minimum has \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/one-fair-wage/national/\" target=\"_blank\">been $2.13 since 1991\u003c/a>. (ROC United has been campaigning to \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/one-fair-wage/\" target=\"_blank\">do away with tipped minimum wage entirely\u003c/a> in recent years.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Can Fair Wage Pioneers Survive the Jump?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In light of this context, the move away from tipping appears all the more progressive. But the big question is: Will the restaurants working the hardest to level the playing field for their employees be able to survive the shift?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take Sal Bednarz, owner of Actual Café and Victory Burger, a side-by-side café and casual grass-fed burger joint in Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“All of our employees are making more than they were, but it’s our kitchen workers who have benefited considerably,” he says. “They’re happy about that—we’re happy about that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bednarz says he raised his prices by 9 percent to account for the wage increase, and after an initial uptick in business, he’s seen what he calls “softness in certain areas of business,” including the café’s counter lunch and breakfast service, which he says are more price sensitive than the table service they offer in the evenings. He hasn’t moved to a service charge because, he says, it just isn’t possible for counter service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Actual Café’s location hasn’t helped either. “We’re a block away from the city of Emeryville and a few blocks from Berkeley,” Bednarz. “The fact that our minimum wage went up before those other cities meant that some of our most price-sensitive customers probably went elsewhere for their lattés.” In the long term, he says, he trusts that those cities will follow suit with higher wages, but Bednarz is nervous about the long-term viability of his and other small businesses that run on extremely tight margins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I believe that the long-term macro-economic forces at work here will put more money into lots of workers’ pockets and wages will go up everywhere, creating more disposable income for folks. And retail prices will go up as a result of folks paying higher wages. So I’m not sure which will be the stronger force. We may end up paying our workers more, but they’ll have less spending power in the end. It’s too early to tell.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Footing the Bill\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Seattle, several restaurants are responding to the city’s recent wage increases and getting out ahead of the coming ones, including casual seafood restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.king5.com/story/news/local/seattle/2015/03/30/ivars-seattle-15-minimum-wage/70681252/\" target=\"_blank\">Ivar’s\u003c/a> and the higher-end \u003ca href=\"https://eatseacreatures.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Sea Creatures\u003c/a> chain, which have both gotten rid of tips and brought all their workers up to at least $15 an hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The decision, says Sea Creatures co-owner Jeremy Price, came as a result of a combination of the rising city wages, the need to provide health insurance for their workers via the Affordable Care Act, and a philosophy that he describes as “not loving tips in the first place.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All the Sea Creatures Restaurants now include a 20 percent service charge, added on to the bill. And there is no longer a space on the credit card slip for tips. Price says his customers have been quick to adapt to the change, and some even leave small cash tips when they are especially happy with the service. “We’ve had very few complaints,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As at Camino and other Bay Area restaurants, Price and his partners have set up a system that maintains server pay of $31 to $40 an hour (including both wages and a percentage of the service charge), and now servers are also eligible for health insurance and a 401K retirement plan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We didn’t have a ton of cooks making less than $15, but now they are all making at least that,” says Price, who estimates that, “If you aggregate all the cooks, it’s around a 7 percent increase.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Price says the company has seen more people sign up for healthcare and 401K plans than expected. The service charge isn’t covering all of that cost, he says, so Price and his co-owners are taking pay cuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our goal is to attract and retain the best people,” he adds. “So long-term, this is going to be a win for us, and we’re willing to take a pay cut to get there.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, ROC’s Jayaraman says the forward-thinking restaurants she’s encountered feel that investing in their workers pays off in the long term. There’s usually less turnover, she says, which saves costs. But that’s not all. “They also see more invested employees interested in protecting their employers’ bottom lines by reducing things like energy costs, and reducing food waste,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also has the potential to prompt a deeper sense of commitment to the work in other ways. The goal at Sea Creatures, Price says, “is making service work a little more professional, creating a situation where people can treat it like a career.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At a time when the bulk of American workers are seeing \u003ca href=\"http://www.epi.org/publication/charting-wage-stagnation/\" target=\"_blank\">wage stagnation\u003c/a>, increasing income inequality and many employers’ move \u003ca href=\"http://bigstory.ap.org/article/temporary-jobs-rise-todays-shifting-economy\" target=\"_blank\">toward less-formal contract and temporary employment\u003c/a>, this is no small deal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Camino’s Hopewell sees the shift as an opportunity to approach the way her employees work in a whole new way–one that views the restaurant a little more like a single, living organism. “If there is a service issue, we address it as a restaurant concern. It is not just the server who gets a bad tip,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "A 3-D Food Lab And Restaurant Wants To Turn Yuck Into Yum",
"title": "A 3-D Food Lab And Restaurant Wants To Turn Yuck Into Yum",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Dorothée Goffin's lab in Belgium is outfitted with 3-D printers and digital milling machines. It's also a kitchen. And, one day a week, the doors open to anyone who feels like walking in to mess around with the equipment. These days, the tech geeks, chefs, and curious folk that inhabit \u003ca href=\"http://www.gembloux.ulg.ac.be/smart-gastronomy-lab/\" target=\"_blank\">the lab\u003c/a> are focused on 3-D printing. Instead of spouting plastic doodads, the printers exude chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Goffin is the director of the Smart Gastronomy Lab, supported by the University of Liège and a grant from Creative Wallonia. She and her colleagues aren't just playing with their food – they also want to figure out how to make 3-D printed foods more palatable to people. The goal, eventually, is to create foods with enhanced nutritional profiles that people actually want to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We will cook again like our grandmothers did, but using new technologies\" that give healthier ingredients a more appetizing form, Goffin \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZixLFnVG4w&index=13&list=WL\">explains\u003c/a> in a TEDx talk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At a recent demonstration at the Expo Milano 2015 in Italy, Goffin, who has a doctorate in chemistry and bioindustry, demonstrated the chocolate printing in action. A syringe the size of a fork deposited \"ink\" – which was actually fancy Belgian chocolate infused with blue-green algae, a good source of protein — methodically across a printer board. Each drop of liquid was so miniscule, it was hard to tell they would eventually add up to something three dimensional.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Smart Gastronomy Lab is certainly not alone in dedicating itself to deconstructing food into semi-liquids that can be jetted out of a 3-D printer. Just around the corner at the Expo Milano, Italian pasta giant Barilla and TNO, a Dutch independent research organization, revealed a printer that can ooze four noodles every 2 minutes. Hershey \u003ca href=\"http://3dprintingindustry.com/2015/01/06/hershey-3d-systems-unveil-new-cutting-edge-chocolate-3d-printer-ces/\" target=\"_blank\">just released\u003c/a> a commercially available chocolate printer. As The Salt has \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/01/13/262066977/spinach-dinosaurs-to-sugar-diamonds-3-d-printers-hit-the-kitchen\">reported\u003c/a>, a device called Foodini is meant to crank out things like dinosaur-shaped quiche. The U.S. Army \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/alltechconsidered/2014/11/04/361187352/army-eyes-3d-printed-food-for-soldiers\" target=\"_blank\">has considered\u003c/a> 3-D printing meals for soldiers. Modern Meadow, based in New York City, is working on producing meat that doesn't involve any actual animals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But these innovations not only come with a whopping price tag – they also often happen behind closed doors. Goffin's endeavor is different: She wants to get local consumers, curious people and foodies in on the innovation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98293\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1793px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10012703_924780220916386_3452627291743313625_o-e4b77835e643bbcd10dd19043efc551c31dc06b2.jpg\" alt=\"Lab visitors watch a 3-D printer squirt chocolate into an intricate shape designed by chef Arabelle Meirlaen.\" width=\"1793\" height=\"1345\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98293\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10012703_924780220916386_3452627291743313625_o-e4b77835e643bbcd10dd19043efc551c31dc06b2.jpg 1793w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10012703_924780220916386_3452627291743313625_o-e4b77835e643bbcd10dd19043efc551c31dc06b2-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10012703_924780220916386_3452627291743313625_o-e4b77835e643bbcd10dd19043efc551c31dc06b2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10012703_924780220916386_3452627291743313625_o-e4b77835e643bbcd10dd19043efc551c31dc06b2-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10012703_924780220916386_3452627291743313625_o-e4b77835e643bbcd10dd19043efc551c31dc06b2-1400x1050.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10012703_924780220916386_3452627291743313625_o-e4b77835e643bbcd10dd19043efc551c31dc06b2-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10012703_924780220916386_3452627291743313625_o-e4b77835e643bbcd10dd19043efc551c31dc06b2-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1793px) 100vw, 1793px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lab visitors watch a 3-D printer squirt chocolate into an intricate shape designed by chef Arabelle Meirlaen. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Smart Gastronomy Lab, University of Liège)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The lab exists right now in a \u003ca href=\"http://www.trakk.be/\" target=\"_blank\">co-working hub\u003c/a> in Namur, Belgium. It's a \"FabLab,\" or fabrication laboratory, an open workshop model originally \u003ca href=\"http://www.fabfoundation.org/fab-labs/what-is-a-fab-lab/\" target=\"_blank\">hatched at MIT\u003c/a> and replicated all over the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Goffin's lab is starting with chocolate, she explains, \"because we are Belgian,\" and also because the physical chemistry of chocolate is perfect for 3-D printing. It doesn't take much tinkering to ensure that chocolate will stay liquid when it's inside the printing cartridge and solidify once it drops out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's the biggest difficulty with 3-D food printing,\" she says. Fat allows chocolaty goop to crystallize easily at room temperature. But other foods are not so simple, especially if the goal is to partially cook, say, meat or vegetable material as it leaves the nozzle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michael Petch, who has written two books on 3-D food printing, says the process itself \"is very similar to the assembly line processes you might see in a large confectionery manufacturer, where molten foodstuff is extruded through a nozzle at a particular temperature and then allowed to cool before other materials are introduced.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's been a way of producing food at high volume for a long time. What's new is being able to combine multiple ingredients, and being able to control the temperature much more precisely at the nozzle, so you can partially cook or not cook food,\" says Petch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next year, in Gembloux, Belgium, the Smart Gastronomy Lab will open a \"Living Lab,\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.openlivinglabs.eu/aboutus\" target=\"_blank\">a space\u003c/a> meant to mix innovators and consumers and quickly breed new prototypes. One floor will be a professional kitchen blended with a laboratory. The other will be a self-sustaining restaurant. It'll double as a consumer testing observatory to see how people respond to certain test recipes that have been 3-D printed in various forms and textures. About 20 Belgian \u003ca href=\"http://generationw.be/en/the-chefs/\" target=\"_blank\">chefs\u003c/a> are on board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of the time, it'll just be a restaurant with a few 3-D printed bites here and there. But every now and then, they'll whip out a test recipe — for example, a chicken cutlet that's been fortified with micro-proteins and re-texturized for easy chewing. Diners will get surveys to fill out after their meal. Cameras will allow lab folk to observe how people react to test recipes and whacky ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98294\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1917px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10860961_924781327582942_5424914760909422767_o-e5d8eb217f1a812f5ed61ab97faf359d5f0dcab6.jpg\" alt=\"One of the goals of the Smart Gastronomy Lab in Belgium is to reengineer unappetizing but healthy food — like insect protein and algae — into appealing forms.\" width=\"1917\" height=\"1438\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98294\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10860961_924781327582942_5424914760909422767_o-e5d8eb217f1a812f5ed61ab97faf359d5f0dcab6.jpg 1917w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10860961_924781327582942_5424914760909422767_o-e5d8eb217f1a812f5ed61ab97faf359d5f0dcab6-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10860961_924781327582942_5424914760909422767_o-e5d8eb217f1a812f5ed61ab97faf359d5f0dcab6-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10860961_924781327582942_5424914760909422767_o-e5d8eb217f1a812f5ed61ab97faf359d5f0dcab6-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10860961_924781327582942_5424914760909422767_o-e5d8eb217f1a812f5ed61ab97faf359d5f0dcab6-1400x1050.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10860961_924781327582942_5424914760909422767_o-e5d8eb217f1a812f5ed61ab97faf359d5f0dcab6-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10860961_924781327582942_5424914760909422767_o-e5d8eb217f1a812f5ed61ab97faf359d5f0dcab6-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1917px) 100vw, 1917px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the goals of the Smart Gastronomy Lab in Belgium is to reengineer unappetizing but healthy food — like insect protein and algae — into appealing forms. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Smart Gastronomy Lab, University of Liège)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The idea is to have real, natural and in situ results,\" says Goffin, \"That's the idea of the Living Lab: to test the reaction of people in their real life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you are working only on nutrition, you do something like \u003ca href=\"http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2014/05/12/the-end-of-food\" target=\"_blank\">Soylent\u003c/a>. That's nutrition. But food is pleasure. It's something very personal,\" she adds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once they improve the technology and figure out what people do and don't like, Goffin says she and her colleagues want to move on to health-focused exploits: infusing insects and algae into traditional recipes to boost their protein profile, and developing \"senior-adapted food\" for elderly people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seniors who have trouble chewing and swallowing properly, Goffin explains, often \"have to eat puree every day.\" As a result, they avoid eating socially, or they just don't eat enough. \"3-D printing will allow us to reconstitute food, and in doing so restore the pleasure of eating,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A German company, Biozoon, is already \u003ca href=\"http://ec.europa.eu/programmes/horizon2020/en/news/3d-food-printing-technology-help-people-chewing-difficulties\" target=\"_blank\">working on\u003c/a> something similar: gel-like products they call \"smoothfood.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a big market for the future. There are a lot of companies working on senior-adapted food, because the overall population is getting older,\" says Goffin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, though, it's all about the chocolate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A group of top chefs, food scientists and tech geeks have set up a lab in Belgium to master 3-D food printing. Their goal: to create nutritionally enhanced foods that appeal to the pickiest palates.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Dorothée Goffin's lab in Belgium is outfitted with 3-D printers and digital milling machines. It's also a kitchen. And, one day a week, the doors open to anyone who feels like walking in to mess around with the equipment. These days, the tech geeks, chefs, and curious folk that inhabit \u003ca href=\"http://www.gembloux.ulg.ac.be/smart-gastronomy-lab/\" target=\"_blank\">the lab\u003c/a> are focused on 3-D printing. Instead of spouting plastic doodads, the printers exude chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Goffin is the director of the Smart Gastronomy Lab, supported by the University of Liège and a grant from Creative Wallonia. She and her colleagues aren't just playing with their food – they also want to figure out how to make 3-D printed foods more palatable to people. The goal, eventually, is to create foods with enhanced nutritional profiles that people actually want to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We will cook again like our grandmothers did, but using new technologies\" that give healthier ingredients a more appetizing form, Goffin \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZixLFnVG4w&index=13&list=WL\">explains\u003c/a> in a TEDx talk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At a recent demonstration at the Expo Milano 2015 in Italy, Goffin, who has a doctorate in chemistry and bioindustry, demonstrated the chocolate printing in action. A syringe the size of a fork deposited \"ink\" – which was actually fancy Belgian chocolate infused with blue-green algae, a good source of protein — methodically across a printer board. Each drop of liquid was so miniscule, it was hard to tell they would eventually add up to something three dimensional.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Smart Gastronomy Lab is certainly not alone in dedicating itself to deconstructing food into semi-liquids that can be jetted out of a 3-D printer. Just around the corner at the Expo Milano, Italian pasta giant Barilla and TNO, a Dutch independent research organization, revealed a printer that can ooze four noodles every 2 minutes. Hershey \u003ca href=\"http://3dprintingindustry.com/2015/01/06/hershey-3d-systems-unveil-new-cutting-edge-chocolate-3d-printer-ces/\" target=\"_blank\">just released\u003c/a> a commercially available chocolate printer. As The Salt has \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/01/13/262066977/spinach-dinosaurs-to-sugar-diamonds-3-d-printers-hit-the-kitchen\">reported\u003c/a>, a device called Foodini is meant to crank out things like dinosaur-shaped quiche. The U.S. Army \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/alltechconsidered/2014/11/04/361187352/army-eyes-3d-printed-food-for-soldiers\" target=\"_blank\">has considered\u003c/a> 3-D printing meals for soldiers. Modern Meadow, based in New York City, is working on producing meat that doesn't involve any actual animals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But these innovations not only come with a whopping price tag – they also often happen behind closed doors. Goffin's endeavor is different: She wants to get local consumers, curious people and foodies in on the innovation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98293\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1793px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10012703_924780220916386_3452627291743313625_o-e4b77835e643bbcd10dd19043efc551c31dc06b2.jpg\" alt=\"Lab visitors watch a 3-D printer squirt chocolate into an intricate shape designed by chef Arabelle Meirlaen.\" width=\"1793\" height=\"1345\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98293\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10012703_924780220916386_3452627291743313625_o-e4b77835e643bbcd10dd19043efc551c31dc06b2.jpg 1793w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10012703_924780220916386_3452627291743313625_o-e4b77835e643bbcd10dd19043efc551c31dc06b2-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10012703_924780220916386_3452627291743313625_o-e4b77835e643bbcd10dd19043efc551c31dc06b2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10012703_924780220916386_3452627291743313625_o-e4b77835e643bbcd10dd19043efc551c31dc06b2-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10012703_924780220916386_3452627291743313625_o-e4b77835e643bbcd10dd19043efc551c31dc06b2-1400x1050.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10012703_924780220916386_3452627291743313625_o-e4b77835e643bbcd10dd19043efc551c31dc06b2-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10012703_924780220916386_3452627291743313625_o-e4b77835e643bbcd10dd19043efc551c31dc06b2-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1793px) 100vw, 1793px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lab visitors watch a 3-D printer squirt chocolate into an intricate shape designed by chef Arabelle Meirlaen. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Smart Gastronomy Lab, University of Liège)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The lab exists right now in a \u003ca href=\"http://www.trakk.be/\" target=\"_blank\">co-working hub\u003c/a> in Namur, Belgium. It's a \"FabLab,\" or fabrication laboratory, an open workshop model originally \u003ca href=\"http://www.fabfoundation.org/fab-labs/what-is-a-fab-lab/\" target=\"_blank\">hatched at MIT\u003c/a> and replicated all over the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Goffin's lab is starting with chocolate, she explains, \"because we are Belgian,\" and also because the physical chemistry of chocolate is perfect for 3-D printing. It doesn't take much tinkering to ensure that chocolate will stay liquid when it's inside the printing cartridge and solidify once it drops out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's the biggest difficulty with 3-D food printing,\" she says. Fat allows chocolaty goop to crystallize easily at room temperature. But other foods are not so simple, especially if the goal is to partially cook, say, meat or vegetable material as it leaves the nozzle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michael Petch, who has written two books on 3-D food printing, says the process itself \"is very similar to the assembly line processes you might see in a large confectionery manufacturer, where molten foodstuff is extruded through a nozzle at a particular temperature and then allowed to cool before other materials are introduced.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's been a way of producing food at high volume for a long time. What's new is being able to combine multiple ingredients, and being able to control the temperature much more precisely at the nozzle, so you can partially cook or not cook food,\" says Petch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next year, in Gembloux, Belgium, the Smart Gastronomy Lab will open a \"Living Lab,\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.openlivinglabs.eu/aboutus\" target=\"_blank\">a space\u003c/a> meant to mix innovators and consumers and quickly breed new prototypes. One floor will be a professional kitchen blended with a laboratory. The other will be a self-sustaining restaurant. It'll double as a consumer testing observatory to see how people respond to certain test recipes that have been 3-D printed in various forms and textures. About 20 Belgian \u003ca href=\"http://generationw.be/en/the-chefs/\" target=\"_blank\">chefs\u003c/a> are on board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of the time, it'll just be a restaurant with a few 3-D printed bites here and there. But every now and then, they'll whip out a test recipe — for example, a chicken cutlet that's been fortified with micro-proteins and re-texturized for easy chewing. Diners will get surveys to fill out after their meal. Cameras will allow lab folk to observe how people react to test recipes and whacky ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98294\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1917px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10860961_924781327582942_5424914760909422767_o-e5d8eb217f1a812f5ed61ab97faf359d5f0dcab6.jpg\" alt=\"One of the goals of the Smart Gastronomy Lab in Belgium is to reengineer unappetizing but healthy food — like insect protein and algae — into appealing forms.\" width=\"1917\" height=\"1438\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98294\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10860961_924781327582942_5424914760909422767_o-e5d8eb217f1a812f5ed61ab97faf359d5f0dcab6.jpg 1917w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10860961_924781327582942_5424914760909422767_o-e5d8eb217f1a812f5ed61ab97faf359d5f0dcab6-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10860961_924781327582942_5424914760909422767_o-e5d8eb217f1a812f5ed61ab97faf359d5f0dcab6-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10860961_924781327582942_5424914760909422767_o-e5d8eb217f1a812f5ed61ab97faf359d5f0dcab6-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10860961_924781327582942_5424914760909422767_o-e5d8eb217f1a812f5ed61ab97faf359d5f0dcab6-1400x1050.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10860961_924781327582942_5424914760909422767_o-e5d8eb217f1a812f5ed61ab97faf359d5f0dcab6-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/10860961_924781327582942_5424914760909422767_o-e5d8eb217f1a812f5ed61ab97faf359d5f0dcab6-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1917px) 100vw, 1917px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the goals of the Smart Gastronomy Lab in Belgium is to reengineer unappetizing but healthy food — like insect protein and algae — into appealing forms. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Smart Gastronomy Lab, University of Liège)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The idea is to have real, natural and in situ results,\" says Goffin, \"That's the idea of the Living Lab: to test the reaction of people in their real life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you are working only on nutrition, you do something like \u003ca href=\"http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2014/05/12/the-end-of-food\" target=\"_blank\">Soylent\u003c/a>. That's nutrition. But food is pleasure. It's something very personal,\" she adds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once they improve the technology and figure out what people do and don't like, Goffin says she and her colleagues want to move on to health-focused exploits: infusing insects and algae into traditional recipes to boost their protein profile, and developing \"senior-adapted food\" for elderly people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seniors who have trouble chewing and swallowing properly, Goffin explains, often \"have to eat puree every day.\" As a result, they avoid eating socially, or they just don't eat enough. \"3-D printing will allow us to reconstitute food, and in doing so restore the pleasure of eating,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A German company, Biozoon, is already \u003ca href=\"http://ec.europa.eu/programmes/horizon2020/en/news/3d-food-printing-technology-help-people-chewing-difficulties\" target=\"_blank\">working on\u003c/a> something similar: gel-like products they call \"smoothfood.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a big market for the future. There are a lot of companies working on senior-adapted food, because the overall population is getting older,\" says Goffin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, though, it's all about the chocolate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Even those of us who can't tell the difference between a pinot noir and a merlot are probably familiar with the basic rule of wine pairing: white wine with fish and red wine with steak. But when it comes to tea pairings, we're stumped.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet it turns out there is an art to unlocking new flavors in your food by pairing it with tea. Sipping oolong with a buttery, citrusy madeleine can highlight the flowery and milky notes of the tea, while a hot cup of green tea melts the texture of goat cheese and enhances its creamy notes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now a whole new breed of experts has risen up to spread this knowledge: tea sommeliers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The whole idea of pairing tea with food is that you should have a tea that's going to enhance the flavor of the food, or vice versa,\" explains Aurelie Bessiere, a tea expert at \u003ca href=\"http://us.palaisdesthes.com/en_us/\">Palais Des Thes\u003c/a>, a tea production company based in France. \"What you want to happen in your mouth is to feel the different layers of taste and flavors of both tea and food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is where tea sommeliers come in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's like a wine sommelier, giving you advice, depending on what kind of tea you want to drink, what time of the day it is, and what you're eating,\" says Bessiere, a tea sommelier herself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a fairly new concept — and very much a Western term, Bessiere says. In the East, by contrast, the rituals surrounding tea follow stricter guidelines and often have a deeper cultural as well as political meaning behind them, as exemplified by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/06/23/414669081/in-the-japanese-tea-ceremony-politics-are-served-with-every-cup\">Japanese tea ceremony\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To become a tea sommelier, you need to know a lot about tea: where it's from, how it's made, the different aromas and flavors in tea, and which ones pair well with what kind of food, says Bessiere. The International Tea Masters Association even developed an \u003ca href=\"http://teamasters.org/tea-aroma/\">aroma wheel\u003c/a> for tea, modeled on a wine aroma wheel, that lists aromatics such as spicy, earthy and floral as starting points for evaluating tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Palais Des Thes, which offers tea sommelier training classes in Paris, often works with hotels and restaurants around the globe that are gradually changing their approach to tea, bringing it to the front and center of the dining experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the restaurants it recently started working with is \u003ca href=\"http://elevenmadisonpark.com/\">Eleven Madison Park\u003c/a> in New York — a fine-dining establishment also known for its tea program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98286\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/kathy-yl-chan-tea-and-cheese-pairings-12-5-_custom-28cfcc2b92b6225a8621d8ee3bfe1f99d7fa8f39-e1437496979738.jpg\" alt=\"Enjoying wine with cheese is common, but black tea also goes surprisingly well with chiriboga blue cheese, as shown here.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1323\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98286\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enjoying wine with cheese is common, but black tea also goes surprisingly well with chiriboga blue cheese, as shown here. \u003ccite>(Kathy YL Chan for NPR )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"My goal has always been to put together a tea list with the same standard and rigor as you would with wine,\" says Christopher Day, the dining room manager and head of the tea program at the restaurant. \"I try to taste and select teas that are representative of the major styles of oolong, black and green tea.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The tableside tea program at Eleven Madison Park boasts four different oolongs, two different types of pu'erh, a Hawaiian black tea, and many more tea options — loose tea, not tea bags — directly sourced from the country of origin through vendors like Palais Des Thes, Teance and In Pursuit of Tea, and individual farms as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The tea can be served by the pot, or tableside in the Chinese traditional \u003cem>gong-fu\u003c/em> style with \u003cem>gaiwan\u003c/em> (a three-piece ceramic tea cup with lid, cup and saucer) at any point of the meal. The \u003cem>gong-fu\u003c/em> style of tea-drinking is \u003ca href=\"http://www.inpursuitoftea.com/The-Gong-Fu-Style-of-Drinking-Fine-Tea-s/99.htm\">rooted\u003c/a> in the traditional Chinese tea ceremony. It's seen as an intimate act between drinker and server that demonstrates both art and skills in brewing and serving tea. Both the tea selection and the accompanying service go above and beyond the Earl Grey or chamomile tea bag you might find at most restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tea sommeliers make their recommendations much like their counterparts in wine do: They talk with the diners, taking into consideration what they're looking for in the tea and what dishes they've ordered, Day says. \"We provide background but also space in terms of recommendations\" for tea and food pairings. There are general guidelines, but experimenting is really the best option, according to Day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We once served a pu-erh at cellar temperature with celery root that had been cooked in a pig's bladder,\" Day tells of a particular pairing experiment. \"The reasoning was that the bladder course was extremely fragrant, and we wanted to highlight the earthiness of the tea on the palate without competing with or diminishing the fragrance of the bladder course, which was cut open in front of the guests and served immediately. It worked extremely well.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For many customers, the pairings can be a revelation, says Jeff Ruiz, head of the tea program at the restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://ateranyc.com/\">Atera\u003c/a>, in New York City.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Atera offers a tea pairing that's specific to the course, matching six types of tea with the restaurant's 16-to-18-course tasting menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everyone that gets it, it changes their perspective,\" Ruiz says, with customers often exclaiming how eye-opening the pairing experience has been.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you pair a specific tea with a specific dish, the pairing can \"unlock a third flavor,\" Ruiz says. He's fascinated by the multidimensional flavors you can coax out of teas, and enjoys the challenge of exploring potential pairings with Atera's chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, a new dish on the menu – foie gras with blackcurrant and peanut – is paired with a second-flush Darjeeling tea prepared hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[The tea] helps the foie gras melt. It brings everything together. Black tea tannin matches the fat content in the foie gras. Everyone is skeptical, but it just works, and it works beautifully,\" Ruiz says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Experiment With Tea Pairings\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\"Every tea has a story to tell,\" says Christopher Day, head of the tea program at Eleven Madison Park in New York City. Tea sommeliers are there to help tell that story, but you don't need to be an expert in tea to appreciate the long history and variety of flavors the beverage brings, especially when paired with food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, here are some simple food and tea pairings you can try at home, suggested by the tea experts we spoke with for our story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Butterfly of Taiwan ooolong with Sheep cheese such as Ossau Iraty\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cheese enhances the fruity (think apple puree and candied citrus) and honey notes of the tea, which seems sweeter. The strong woody notes of the tea are elevated to a lighter and greener tone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nepal Arya Tara black tea & Pleasant Ridge Reserve Extra Aged Cheddar\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This pairing enhances the sweet, fruity notes of both the tea and the cheese. The cheese cuts the astringency of the tea and makes it much rounder. The green, vegetal notes of the tea become stronger, allowing for a fresh and long-lasting finish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bao Zhong imperial oolong tea with a madeleine\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The slightly lemony madeleine melts in the mouth with the tea, and its buttery and citrus notes highlight the flowery (rose, jasmine) and milky notes of the tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Oriental Beauty \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>oolong with almond cherry bars\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The peach and apricot notes and distinct honey sweetness of the tea accentuate the flavor of the cherries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kabuse green tea with melted chocolate\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The kabuse is a green tea with high levels of umami – a pleasant, savory taste – as well as sweet and salty. When these three flavors hit melted chocolate, you unlock a flavor similar to pure cantaloupe.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/408297745/tea-tuesday\">Tea Tuesdays\u003c/a>\u003cem>is an occasional series exploring the science, history, culture and economics of this ancient brewed beverage.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Even those of us who can't tell the difference between a pinot noir and a merlot are probably familiar with the basic rule of wine pairing: white wine with fish and red wine with steak. But when it comes to tea pairings, we're stumped.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet it turns out there is an art to unlocking new flavors in your food by pairing it with tea. Sipping oolong with a buttery, citrusy madeleine can highlight the flowery and milky notes of the tea, while a hot cup of green tea melts the texture of goat cheese and enhances its creamy notes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now a whole new breed of experts has risen up to spread this knowledge: tea sommeliers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The whole idea of pairing tea with food is that you should have a tea that's going to enhance the flavor of the food, or vice versa,\" explains Aurelie Bessiere, a tea expert at \u003ca href=\"http://us.palaisdesthes.com/en_us/\">Palais Des Thes\u003c/a>, a tea production company based in France. \"What you want to happen in your mouth is to feel the different layers of taste and flavors of both tea and food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is where tea sommeliers come in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's like a wine sommelier, giving you advice, depending on what kind of tea you want to drink, what time of the day it is, and what you're eating,\" says Bessiere, a tea sommelier herself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a fairly new concept — and very much a Western term, Bessiere says. In the East, by contrast, the rituals surrounding tea follow stricter guidelines and often have a deeper cultural as well as political meaning behind them, as exemplified by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/06/23/414669081/in-the-japanese-tea-ceremony-politics-are-served-with-every-cup\">Japanese tea ceremony\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To become a tea sommelier, you need to know a lot about tea: where it's from, how it's made, the different aromas and flavors in tea, and which ones pair well with what kind of food, says Bessiere. The International Tea Masters Association even developed an \u003ca href=\"http://teamasters.org/tea-aroma/\">aroma wheel\u003c/a> for tea, modeled on a wine aroma wheel, that lists aromatics such as spicy, earthy and floral as starting points for evaluating tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Palais Des Thes, which offers tea sommelier training classes in Paris, often works with hotels and restaurants around the globe that are gradually changing their approach to tea, bringing it to the front and center of the dining experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the restaurants it recently started working with is \u003ca href=\"http://elevenmadisonpark.com/\">Eleven Madison Park\u003c/a> in New York — a fine-dining establishment also known for its tea program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98286\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/kathy-yl-chan-tea-and-cheese-pairings-12-5-_custom-28cfcc2b92b6225a8621d8ee3bfe1f99d7fa8f39-e1437496979738.jpg\" alt=\"Enjoying wine with cheese is common, but black tea also goes surprisingly well with chiriboga blue cheese, as shown here.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1323\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98286\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enjoying wine with cheese is common, but black tea also goes surprisingly well with chiriboga blue cheese, as shown here. \u003ccite>(Kathy YL Chan for NPR )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"My goal has always been to put together a tea list with the same standard and rigor as you would with wine,\" says Christopher Day, the dining room manager and head of the tea program at the restaurant. \"I try to taste and select teas that are representative of the major styles of oolong, black and green tea.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The tableside tea program at Eleven Madison Park boasts four different oolongs, two different types of pu'erh, a Hawaiian black tea, and many more tea options — loose tea, not tea bags — directly sourced from the country of origin through vendors like Palais Des Thes, Teance and In Pursuit of Tea, and individual farms as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The tea can be served by the pot, or tableside in the Chinese traditional \u003cem>gong-fu\u003c/em> style with \u003cem>gaiwan\u003c/em> (a three-piece ceramic tea cup with lid, cup and saucer) at any point of the meal. The \u003cem>gong-fu\u003c/em> style of tea-drinking is \u003ca href=\"http://www.inpursuitoftea.com/The-Gong-Fu-Style-of-Drinking-Fine-Tea-s/99.htm\">rooted\u003c/a> in the traditional Chinese tea ceremony. It's seen as an intimate act between drinker and server that demonstrates both art and skills in brewing and serving tea. Both the tea selection and the accompanying service go above and beyond the Earl Grey or chamomile tea bag you might find at most restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tea sommeliers make their recommendations much like their counterparts in wine do: They talk with the diners, taking into consideration what they're looking for in the tea and what dishes they've ordered, Day says. \"We provide background but also space in terms of recommendations\" for tea and food pairings. There are general guidelines, but experimenting is really the best option, according to Day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We once served a pu-erh at cellar temperature with celery root that had been cooked in a pig's bladder,\" Day tells of a particular pairing experiment. \"The reasoning was that the bladder course was extremely fragrant, and we wanted to highlight the earthiness of the tea on the palate without competing with or diminishing the fragrance of the bladder course, which was cut open in front of the guests and served immediately. It worked extremely well.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For many customers, the pairings can be a revelation, says Jeff Ruiz, head of the tea program at the restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://ateranyc.com/\">Atera\u003c/a>, in New York City.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Atera offers a tea pairing that's specific to the course, matching six types of tea with the restaurant's 16-to-18-course tasting menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everyone that gets it, it changes their perspective,\" Ruiz says, with customers often exclaiming how eye-opening the pairing experience has been.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you pair a specific tea with a specific dish, the pairing can \"unlock a third flavor,\" Ruiz says. He's fascinated by the multidimensional flavors you can coax out of teas, and enjoys the challenge of exploring potential pairings with Atera's chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, a new dish on the menu – foie gras with blackcurrant and peanut – is paired with a second-flush Darjeeling tea prepared hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[The tea] helps the foie gras melt. It brings everything together. Black tea tannin matches the fat content in the foie gras. Everyone is skeptical, but it just works, and it works beautifully,\" Ruiz says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Experiment With Tea Pairings\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\"Every tea has a story to tell,\" says Christopher Day, head of the tea program at Eleven Madison Park in New York City. Tea sommeliers are there to help tell that story, but you don't need to be an expert in tea to appreciate the long history and variety of flavors the beverage brings, especially when paired with food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, here are some simple food and tea pairings you can try at home, suggested by the tea experts we spoke with for our story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Butterfly of Taiwan ooolong with Sheep cheese such as Ossau Iraty\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cheese enhances the fruity (think apple puree and candied citrus) and honey notes of the tea, which seems sweeter. The strong woody notes of the tea are elevated to a lighter and greener tone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nepal Arya Tara black tea & Pleasant Ridge Reserve Extra Aged Cheddar\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This pairing enhances the sweet, fruity notes of both the tea and the cheese. The cheese cuts the astringency of the tea and makes it much rounder. The green, vegetal notes of the tea become stronger, allowing for a fresh and long-lasting finish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bao Zhong imperial oolong tea with a madeleine\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The slightly lemony madeleine melts in the mouth with the tea, and its buttery and citrus notes highlight the flowery (rose, jasmine) and milky notes of the tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Oriental Beauty \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>oolong with almond cherry bars\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The peach and apricot notes and distinct honey sweetness of the tea accentuate the flavor of the cherries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kabuse green tea with melted chocolate\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The kabuse is a green tea with high levels of umami – a pleasant, savory taste – as well as sweet and salty. When these three flavors hit melted chocolate, you unlock a flavor similar to pure cantaloupe.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/408297745/tea-tuesday\">Tea Tuesdays\u003c/a>\u003cem>is an occasional series exploring the science, history, culture and economics of this ancient brewed beverage.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"title": "New Micro-Bakery on the Peninsula Crafting Glorious, Gluten-free Bagels and Bread without the Yuck Factor",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98154\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-Makram.jpg\" alt=\"Mina Makram\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98154\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-Makram.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-Makram-400x603.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-Makram-800x1206.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-Makram-960x1448.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mina Makram \u003ccite>(Susan Hathaway)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These bagels and breads don't crack like sticks when bent, nor \u003ca href=\"http://eat515.com/2014/06/gluten-free-bread-that-doesnt-taste-like-cardboard/\" target=\"_blank\">taste like cardboard\u003c/a>. Mina Makram has tried most of the commercial gluten-free items out there and made sure what he bakes covers new territory -- a delicious one. \u003ca href=\"http://www.ducksanddragons.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Ducks & Dragons\u003c/a>, his tiny bakery launched in early 2015 in San Mateo, produces \u003ca href=\"http://www.jaunted.com/story/2014/4/3/151354/9311/travel/Know+Your+Bagels%3A+The+Difference+Between+New+York+City+and+Montreal-Style\" target=\"_blank\">Montreal-style bagels\u003c/a> and baguettes that deliver the pleasing properties of wheat-based comfort food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His bread is moist (although it contains no oil), springy and has a nice crumb, toasting like a dream. There's no distracting sour aroma of \u003ca href=\"http://bakingbites.com/2008/08/using-vinegar-in-baking/\" target=\"_blank\">apple cider vinegar\u003c/a> (frequently used in gluten-free products). His bagels are dense and nicely textured but not rock-like, with the shiny outside that proclaims having been \u003ca href=\"http://www.slate.com/blogs/browbeat/2014/04/24/authentic_bagel_recipe_you_need_barley_malt_syrup_and_boiling_water.html\" target=\"_blank\">boiled\u003c/a>, like a bagel should be but often isn't. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98151\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/bagels-and-bread.jpg\" alt=\"The various Montreal-style bagels, baguette and rolls available from Ducks & Dragons will soon be augmented with more baked goods.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"581\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98151\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/bagels-and-bread.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/bagels-and-bread-400x232.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/bagels-and-bread-800x465.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/bagels-and-bread-960x558.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The various Montreal-style bagels, baguette and rolls available from Ducks & Dragons will soon be augmented with more baked goods. \u003ccite>(Susan Hathaway)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/01/14/375709527/gluten-free-craze-is-boon-and-bane-for-those-with-celiac-disease\" target=\"_blank\">gluten-free craze\u003c/a> continuing to skyrocket, Makram's petite output is being gobbled up by his growing fan base. Followers include the miniscule proportion of people actually diagnosed with celiac disease -- the serious autoimmune disorder that can damage the lining of the small intestine after the consumption of the gluten in wheat, barley and rye -- as well as the many more individuals who have decided they want to cut gluten out of their diets for a host of reasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Makram himself is one of those who determined that carbohydrates can be problematic when it comes to health. In fact, this is what led to the creation of Ducks & Dragons. Obese since childhood, he decided to reinvent his diet and lifestyle beginning four-plus years ago, weighing a distressing 400 pounds at the time. \"I used to eat anything -- pizza, fast food, whatever,\" he recalls. \"I didn't know about nutrition.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also didn't exercise and increasingly found that even short walks between buildings at work -- he was then a research engineer for GE Healthcare -- were an ordeal. \"I'd break into a sweat,\" he explains. \"I was wasting so much time because I was waiting for the elevator.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98152\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/baguette.jpg\" alt=\"While it doesn't have the hard crust of most wheat-based breads -- Makram prefers soft exteriors -- his baguette has a soft, pleasing texture enhanced by fine flecks of flax seed and slices and toasts like standard bread.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"512\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98152\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/baguette.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/baguette-400x205.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/baguette-800x410.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/baguette-960x492.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">While it doesn't have the hard crust of most wheat-based breads -- Makram prefers soft exteriors -- his baguette has a soft, pleasing texture enhanced by fine flecks of flax seed and slices and toasts like standard bread. \u003ccite>(Susan Hathaway)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>His personal overhaul involved learning to ride a bicycle for the first time, then expanded to workouts at the gym -- where he met his girlfriend -- and the reconstruction of his diet based on healthy principles. Makram sampled \"all the various diets -- low fat, low calories -- but I didn't like the food,\" he says. \"Eventually, I came across the \u003ca href=\"http://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/weight-loss/in-depth/low-carb-diet/art-20045831\" target=\"_blank\">low-carb diet\u003c/a> and I adopted that and started seeing results. I stuck with it for three-and-a-half years,\" losing half his body weight in the process. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Learning how to cook and then creating his own recipes were his saviors when it came to dieting success. Explains Makram: \"I wasn't miserable. I was happy about the food I was eating and it made it easier for me to diet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98155\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-at-market.jpg\" alt=\"Makram is all smiles at his first farmers market stand, this one at the College of San Mateo.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98155\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-at-market.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-at-market-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-at-market-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-at-market-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Makram is all smiles at his first farmers market stand, this one at the College of San Mateo. \u003ccite>(courtesy of Ducks & Dragons)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>His bakery originally grew out of a quest to make a tasty gluten-free pancake, which took some work to perfect. Says Makram, \"People would eat it and say, 'Wow, this cannot be healthy!'\" And naturally, people kept urging him to sell his subsequent creations, which later led to a booth at a farmers market. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then he was hooked. \"It's very satisfying and I'm passionate about it,\" he reveals. \"I've see the improvement in people's lives and that has its own rewards. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I had two customers who broke into tears after they tried my bread,\" remembers Makram. \"They said, 'We have not had bread in years because everything (non-gluten) out there is horrible.' I've got customers whose kids are celiac and they love it. And a lot of people just buy the bread because it's good bread that's healthier. Because of the ingredients I use, everything is high fiber. There are 12 grams of fiber in the bagels. That's a lot compared to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.beinghealthy.tv/archives/bagels/\" target=\"_blank\">normal bagel\u003c/a>.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tasting Makram's products, it's hard to believe they're gluten-free given the pleasing resemblance to regular breads. His baguettes have an appealing yeasty aroma and airy texture punctuated with ground flaxseed while his Montreal-style bagels -- smaller, sweeter and denser than the New York kind -- include one particularly popular flavor featuring a hit of chile and an abundance of toppings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98153\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/everything-bagel.jpg\" alt='The most popular bagel flavor at Ducks & Dragons is the \"everything,\" which has just enough chile flakes to perk up the tastebuds and caraway seeds added to the other toppings.' width=\"1000\" height=\"595\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98153\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/everything-bagel.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/everything-bagel-400x238.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/everything-bagel-800x476.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/everything-bagel-960x571.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The most popular bagel flavor at Ducks & Dragons is the \"everything,\" which has just enough chile flakes to perk up the tastebuds and caraway seeds added to the other toppings. \u003ccite>(Susan Hathaway)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The backbone ingredients for Makram's products are \u003ca href=\"http://www.platedwithstyle.com/baking-flours/\" target=\"_blank\">almond, coconut, tapioca and arrowroot flours\u003c/a> along with egg whites, \u003ca href=\"http://www.healthline.com/health/psyllium-health-benefits\" target=\"_blank\">psyllium husks\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://modernistcuisine.com/2013/03/what-is-xanthan-gum/\" target=\"_blank\">xanthan gum\u003c/a> and yeast. With no culinary training and no youthful cooking experience, he had no ground rules to get in the way of his research.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of the techniques I use would give a traditional baker a headache. The techniques and proportions are very different from what a traditional baker would use for a similar product,\" he says. His laboriously created process is a secret and defies what bakers believe is possible when making \u003ca href=\"http://alldayidreamaboutfood.com/2013/02/low-carb-basics-baking-with-almond-flour.html\" target=\"_blank\">almond flour baked goods\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Determination also helped him refine his recipes, since his go-to mode for many things is not to give up until the goal is reached. Before creating the bakery, this remarkable discipline was seen in many successful outcomes that might have challenged others, like \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/1996/04/21/nyregion/proficient-in-english-but-trying-to-lose-their-accents.html\" target=\"_blank\">extinguishing his Egyptian accent\u003c/a> through force of will after arriving with his family in the United States at age 16 and, of course, losing a massive amount of weight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also credits his technical background as a useful asset in launching his currently one-man bakery. \"Once an engineer, always an engineer,\" he says. \"That's how I was able to develop this. I looked at it as an engineering problem and I went at it one step at a time.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98157\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/sesame-bagel.jpg\" alt=\"The sesame bagel has heaps of seeds on top and the shiny exterior that comes from being boiled -- in this case, in honey water, as is done for Montreal-style bagels.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"649\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98157\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/sesame-bagel.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/sesame-bagel-400x260.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/sesame-bagel-800x519.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/sesame-bagel-960x623.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The sesame bagel has heaps of seeds on top and the shiny exterior that comes from being boiled -- in this case, in honey water, as is done for Montreal-style bagels. \u003ccite>(courtesy of Ducks & Dragons)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>However, when it came to naming his operation, his inspiration was sentimental rather than nerdy. \"Growing up, my dad gave my mom the nickname of Ducky,\" he explains. And his girlfriend, who loves dragons, has also been a caring, involved advocate. \"Baking is a labor of love and these two women supported me through the whole process,\" he reveals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ducks & Dragons carved a more arduous path than many gluten-free bakeries. As Makram notes, \"The non-gluten food market is saturated with people doing sweet (things). When you put sugar in it, it doesn't taste bad anymore. Bread's a lot trickier.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As he busily engineers new processes to expand his output to meet demand and contemplates hiring some helpers, it's clear he has achieved his initial objective. Future-wise, Makram is also increasing his product line, with non-gluten pizza crust imminent and \"a lot more in store,\" he enthuses. \"I have three-and-a-half years worth of recipes!\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most telling fact is that his baked goods are yummy enough to entice consumers who don't care a fig whether they include gluten or not. Says Makram: \"People like their carbs in the form of bread and bagels but now there's a healthy option and it's delicious. It makes it easier to stick with a healthier lifestyle.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98156\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-in-bakery.jpg\" alt=\"Ducks & Dragons is located in a commercial kitchen in San Mateo called KitchenTown, which will soon be offering Makram's products a couple of days a week in the cafe that fronts the kitchens.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98156\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-in-bakery.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-in-bakery-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-in-bakery-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-in-bakery-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ducks & Dragons is located in a commercial kitchen in San Mateo called KitchenTown, which will soon be offering Makram's products a couple of days a week in the cafe that fronts the kitchens. \u003ccite>(Kimberly Sullivan)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ducksanddragons.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Ducks and Dragons Bakery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1007 Howard Ave., San Mateo (in KitchenTown commercial kitchen)\u003cbr>\nTel: (650) 690-5073\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ducksanddragons\" target=\"_blank\">Ducks & Dragons\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/DucksandDragons\" target=\"_blank\">@DucksandDragons\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://instagram.com/ducksanddragons\" target=\"_blank\">ducksanddragons\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFarmers' markets: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/CollegeofSanMateoFarmersMarket\" target=\"_blank\">College of San Mateo\u003c/a> (Saturdays 9-1 p.m.); \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/San-Carlos-Hot-Harvest-Nights/114029008688844\" target=\"_blank\">San Carlos Hot Harvest Nights\u003c/a>, 4-8 p.m. (May-September)\u003cbr>\nAvailable: \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleybowl.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Berkeley Bowl\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmigo.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Farmigo\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Electrical engineer Mina Makram developed innovative gluten-free bread recipes as part of a home-grown regime that helped him lose 200 pounds. His creations turned out so delicious -- a huge departure from many of the crumbly, taste-compromised gluten-free products on the market -- that he ended up launching Ducks & Dragons, a micro-bakery in San Mateo that has earned a rabid following. \r\n",
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"description": "Electrical engineer Mina Makram developed innovative gluten-free bread recipes as part of a home-grown regime that helped him lose 200 pounds. His creations turned out so delicious -- a huge departure from many of the crumbly, taste-compromised gluten-free products on the market -- that he ended up launching Ducks & Dragons, a micro-bakery in San Mateo that has earned a rabid following. \r\n",
"title": "New Micro-Bakery on the Peninsula Crafting Glorious, Gluten-free Bagels and Bread without the Yuck Factor | KQED",
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"headline": "New Micro-Bakery on the Peninsula Crafting Glorious, Gluten-free Bagels and Bread without the Yuck Factor",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98154\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-Makram.jpg\" alt=\"Mina Makram\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98154\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-Makram.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-Makram-400x603.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-Makram-800x1206.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-Makram-960x1448.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mina Makram \u003ccite>(Susan Hathaway)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These bagels and breads don't crack like sticks when bent, nor \u003ca href=\"http://eat515.com/2014/06/gluten-free-bread-that-doesnt-taste-like-cardboard/\" target=\"_blank\">taste like cardboard\u003c/a>. Mina Makram has tried most of the commercial gluten-free items out there and made sure what he bakes covers new territory -- a delicious one. \u003ca href=\"http://www.ducksanddragons.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Ducks & Dragons\u003c/a>, his tiny bakery launched in early 2015 in San Mateo, produces \u003ca href=\"http://www.jaunted.com/story/2014/4/3/151354/9311/travel/Know+Your+Bagels%3A+The+Difference+Between+New+York+City+and+Montreal-Style\" target=\"_blank\">Montreal-style bagels\u003c/a> and baguettes that deliver the pleasing properties of wheat-based comfort food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His bread is moist (although it contains no oil), springy and has a nice crumb, toasting like a dream. There's no distracting sour aroma of \u003ca href=\"http://bakingbites.com/2008/08/using-vinegar-in-baking/\" target=\"_blank\">apple cider vinegar\u003c/a> (frequently used in gluten-free products). His bagels are dense and nicely textured but not rock-like, with the shiny outside that proclaims having been \u003ca href=\"http://www.slate.com/blogs/browbeat/2014/04/24/authentic_bagel_recipe_you_need_barley_malt_syrup_and_boiling_water.html\" target=\"_blank\">boiled\u003c/a>, like a bagel should be but often isn't. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98151\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/bagels-and-bread.jpg\" alt=\"The various Montreal-style bagels, baguette and rolls available from Ducks & Dragons will soon be augmented with more baked goods.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"581\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98151\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/bagels-and-bread.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/bagels-and-bread-400x232.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/bagels-and-bread-800x465.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/bagels-and-bread-960x558.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The various Montreal-style bagels, baguette and rolls available from Ducks & Dragons will soon be augmented with more baked goods. \u003ccite>(Susan Hathaway)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/01/14/375709527/gluten-free-craze-is-boon-and-bane-for-those-with-celiac-disease\" target=\"_blank\">gluten-free craze\u003c/a> continuing to skyrocket, Makram's petite output is being gobbled up by his growing fan base. Followers include the miniscule proportion of people actually diagnosed with celiac disease -- the serious autoimmune disorder that can damage the lining of the small intestine after the consumption of the gluten in wheat, barley and rye -- as well as the many more individuals who have decided they want to cut gluten out of their diets for a host of reasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Makram himself is one of those who determined that carbohydrates can be problematic when it comes to health. In fact, this is what led to the creation of Ducks & Dragons. Obese since childhood, he decided to reinvent his diet and lifestyle beginning four-plus years ago, weighing a distressing 400 pounds at the time. \"I used to eat anything -- pizza, fast food, whatever,\" he recalls. \"I didn't know about nutrition.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also didn't exercise and increasingly found that even short walks between buildings at work -- he was then a research engineer for GE Healthcare -- were an ordeal. \"I'd break into a sweat,\" he explains. \"I was wasting so much time because I was waiting for the elevator.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98152\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/baguette.jpg\" alt=\"While it doesn't have the hard crust of most wheat-based breads -- Makram prefers soft exteriors -- his baguette has a soft, pleasing texture enhanced by fine flecks of flax seed and slices and toasts like standard bread.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"512\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98152\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/baguette.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/baguette-400x205.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/baguette-800x410.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/baguette-960x492.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">While it doesn't have the hard crust of most wheat-based breads -- Makram prefers soft exteriors -- his baguette has a soft, pleasing texture enhanced by fine flecks of flax seed and slices and toasts like standard bread. \u003ccite>(Susan Hathaway)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>His personal overhaul involved learning to ride a bicycle for the first time, then expanded to workouts at the gym -- where he met his girlfriend -- and the reconstruction of his diet based on healthy principles. Makram sampled \"all the various diets -- low fat, low calories -- but I didn't like the food,\" he says. \"Eventually, I came across the \u003ca href=\"http://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/weight-loss/in-depth/low-carb-diet/art-20045831\" target=\"_blank\">low-carb diet\u003c/a> and I adopted that and started seeing results. I stuck with it for three-and-a-half years,\" losing half his body weight in the process. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Learning how to cook and then creating his own recipes were his saviors when it came to dieting success. Explains Makram: \"I wasn't miserable. I was happy about the food I was eating and it made it easier for me to diet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98155\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-at-market.jpg\" alt=\"Makram is all smiles at his first farmers market stand, this one at the College of San Mateo.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98155\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-at-market.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-at-market-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-at-market-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-at-market-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Makram is all smiles at his first farmers market stand, this one at the College of San Mateo. \u003ccite>(courtesy of Ducks & Dragons)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>His bakery originally grew out of a quest to make a tasty gluten-free pancake, which took some work to perfect. Says Makram, \"People would eat it and say, 'Wow, this cannot be healthy!'\" And naturally, people kept urging him to sell his subsequent creations, which later led to a booth at a farmers market. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then he was hooked. \"It's very satisfying and I'm passionate about it,\" he reveals. \"I've see the improvement in people's lives and that has its own rewards. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I had two customers who broke into tears after they tried my bread,\" remembers Makram. \"They said, 'We have not had bread in years because everything (non-gluten) out there is horrible.' I've got customers whose kids are celiac and they love it. And a lot of people just buy the bread because it's good bread that's healthier. Because of the ingredients I use, everything is high fiber. There are 12 grams of fiber in the bagels. That's a lot compared to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.beinghealthy.tv/archives/bagels/\" target=\"_blank\">normal bagel\u003c/a>.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tasting Makram's products, it's hard to believe they're gluten-free given the pleasing resemblance to regular breads. His baguettes have an appealing yeasty aroma and airy texture punctuated with ground flaxseed while his Montreal-style bagels -- smaller, sweeter and denser than the New York kind -- include one particularly popular flavor featuring a hit of chile and an abundance of toppings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98153\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/everything-bagel.jpg\" alt='The most popular bagel flavor at Ducks & Dragons is the \"everything,\" which has just enough chile flakes to perk up the tastebuds and caraway seeds added to the other toppings.' width=\"1000\" height=\"595\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98153\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/everything-bagel.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/everything-bagel-400x238.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/everything-bagel-800x476.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/everything-bagel-960x571.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The most popular bagel flavor at Ducks & Dragons is the \"everything,\" which has just enough chile flakes to perk up the tastebuds and caraway seeds added to the other toppings. \u003ccite>(Susan Hathaway)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The backbone ingredients for Makram's products are \u003ca href=\"http://www.platedwithstyle.com/baking-flours/\" target=\"_blank\">almond, coconut, tapioca and arrowroot flours\u003c/a> along with egg whites, \u003ca href=\"http://www.healthline.com/health/psyllium-health-benefits\" target=\"_blank\">psyllium husks\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://modernistcuisine.com/2013/03/what-is-xanthan-gum/\" target=\"_blank\">xanthan gum\u003c/a> and yeast. With no culinary training and no youthful cooking experience, he had no ground rules to get in the way of his research.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of the techniques I use would give a traditional baker a headache. The techniques and proportions are very different from what a traditional baker would use for a similar product,\" he says. His laboriously created process is a secret and defies what bakers believe is possible when making \u003ca href=\"http://alldayidreamaboutfood.com/2013/02/low-carb-basics-baking-with-almond-flour.html\" target=\"_blank\">almond flour baked goods\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Determination also helped him refine his recipes, since his go-to mode for many things is not to give up until the goal is reached. Before creating the bakery, this remarkable discipline was seen in many successful outcomes that might have challenged others, like \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/1996/04/21/nyregion/proficient-in-english-but-trying-to-lose-their-accents.html\" target=\"_blank\">extinguishing his Egyptian accent\u003c/a> through force of will after arriving with his family in the United States at age 16 and, of course, losing a massive amount of weight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also credits his technical background as a useful asset in launching his currently one-man bakery. \"Once an engineer, always an engineer,\" he says. \"That's how I was able to develop this. I looked at it as an engineering problem and I went at it one step at a time.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98157\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/sesame-bagel.jpg\" alt=\"The sesame bagel has heaps of seeds on top and the shiny exterior that comes from being boiled -- in this case, in honey water, as is done for Montreal-style bagels.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"649\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98157\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/sesame-bagel.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/sesame-bagel-400x260.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/sesame-bagel-800x519.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/sesame-bagel-960x623.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The sesame bagel has heaps of seeds on top and the shiny exterior that comes from being boiled -- in this case, in honey water, as is done for Montreal-style bagels. \u003ccite>(courtesy of Ducks & Dragons)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>However, when it came to naming his operation, his inspiration was sentimental rather than nerdy. \"Growing up, my dad gave my mom the nickname of Ducky,\" he explains. And his girlfriend, who loves dragons, has also been a caring, involved advocate. \"Baking is a labor of love and these two women supported me through the whole process,\" he reveals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ducks & Dragons carved a more arduous path than many gluten-free bakeries. As Makram notes, \"The non-gluten food market is saturated with people doing sweet (things). When you put sugar in it, it doesn't taste bad anymore. Bread's a lot trickier.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As he busily engineers new processes to expand his output to meet demand and contemplates hiring some helpers, it's clear he has achieved his initial objective. Future-wise, Makram is also increasing his product line, with non-gluten pizza crust imminent and \"a lot more in store,\" he enthuses. \"I have three-and-a-half years worth of recipes!\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most telling fact is that his baked goods are yummy enough to entice consumers who don't care a fig whether they include gluten or not. Says Makram: \"People like their carbs in the form of bread and bagels but now there's a healthy option and it's delicious. It makes it easier to stick with a healthier lifestyle.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_98156\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-in-bakery.jpg\" alt=\"Ducks & Dragons is located in a commercial kitchen in San Mateo called KitchenTown, which will soon be offering Makram's products a couple of days a week in the cafe that fronts the kitchens.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-98156\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-in-bakery.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-in-bakery-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-in-bakery-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Mina-in-bakery-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ducks & Dragons is located in a commercial kitchen in San Mateo called KitchenTown, which will soon be offering Makram's products a couple of days a week in the cafe that fronts the kitchens. \u003ccite>(Kimberly Sullivan)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ducksanddragons.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Ducks and Dragons Bakery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1007 Howard Ave., San Mateo (in KitchenTown commercial kitchen)\u003cbr>\nTel: (650) 690-5073\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ducksanddragons\" target=\"_blank\">Ducks & Dragons\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/DucksandDragons\" target=\"_blank\">@DucksandDragons\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://instagram.com/ducksanddragons\" target=\"_blank\">ducksanddragons\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFarmers' markets: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/CollegeofSanMateoFarmersMarket\" target=\"_blank\">College of San Mateo\u003c/a> (Saturdays 9-1 p.m.); \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/San-Carlos-Hot-Harvest-Nights/114029008688844\" target=\"_blank\">San Carlos Hot Harvest Nights\u003c/a>, 4-8 p.m. (May-September)\u003cbr>\nAvailable: \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleybowl.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Berkeley Bowl\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmigo.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Farmigo\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Dinner by the Numbers: How Do Meal Kits Stack Up?",
"title": "Dinner by the Numbers: How Do Meal Kits Stack Up?",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Putting food on the table on a busy weeknight is a universal problem. Now, a horde of new, sleek, venture capital-funded services has arrived on the market peddling what they think is a solution: kits made of raw ingredients portioned and sometimes prepped—that can be assembled quickly to make a meal “from scratch.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rising popularity of these meal kits has led to a Gold Rush of sorts. Big brands like \u003ca href=\"https://www.blueapron.com\">Blue Apron\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.plated.com\">Plated\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.hellofresh.com/\">Hello Fresh\u003c/a> cater to the general population, each offering a half dozen or so meal plans for everyone from families to vegetarians. Then there are the niche kits: organic food (\u003ca href=\"http://eatpurely.com/\">Eat Purely\u003c/a>), vegan food (\u003ca href=\"https://www.thepurplecarrot.com/\">The Purple Carrot\u003c/a>), Southern cooking (\u003ca href=\"https://www.peachdish.com/\">PeachDish\u003c/a>), and smoothies (\u003ca href=\"https://greenblender.com/\">Green Blender\u003c/a>). All claim to work with local suppliers to some extent, creating a whole new distribution outlet for small- to mid-size farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although these kits have the potential to waste a lot of packaging, many of the companies behind them actually hope to cut down on food waste. Instead of buying obscure ingredients you’ll only use once, or receiving three heads of kale in your weekly community supported agriculture (CSA) subscription box that will inevitably wilt in the crisper drawer, the kits provide you with only what you need for a recipe. Not a bad model for a country that throws away \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/10/07/uncovering-americas-food-waste-fiasco/\">35 million tons\u003c/a> of food a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some meal kit creators also strive to eliminate food waste higher in the supply chain. Blue Apron claims to deliver more than 3 million meals a month. That requires a lot of produce, and Blue Apron and other services are collaborating with farmers, in some cases planning menus a year out in order to sync with crop rotations, and ensure that all the food each farm grows goes to use. In doing so, they could be creating a new form of farm-to-table food delivery, somewhere in between a CSA and a restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’ve had a farm strategy since day one,” says Matthew Wadiak, founder and COO of Blue Apron. He says that the three-year-old company has spent the past few years talking with farmers, assessing their needs and challenges, then figuring out how to address them. Wadiak is a champion of forgotten heirloom produce, like \u003ca href=\"http://www.highmowingseeds.com/organic-non-gmo-seeds-honey-nut-butternut-squash.html\">honeynut squash\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://black%20panther%20soybeans\">black panther soybeans\u003c/a>, which he says goes over well with both his customers and the farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Blue Apron works with the 31 farms, and the culinary staff have sustainable agriculture backgrounds (the culinary director came from \u003ca href=\"https://www.stonebarnscenter.org/\">Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture\u003c/a>), so an awareness of crop rotation and cover crops has been built into their business model.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, the company recently worked with 12-acre Alewife Farm farm and others nearby in New York’s Hudson Valley to source thousands of pounds of pea shoots for a recent \u003ca href=\"https://www.blueapron.com/recipes/seared-wild-king-salmon-with-preserved-lemon-quinoa\">seared salmon dish\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/06/16/starting-out-a-new-farmers-first-growing-season/\">Alewife owner Tyler Dennis\u003c/a> says that the peas helped fix nitrogen in his soil, and the guaranteed revenue from the order was a huge boon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97894\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Blue-Apron-product-shot-e1436412098533.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Blue-Apron-product-shot-e1436412098533.jpg\" alt=\"Several meal kits from Blue Apron.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97894\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Blue-Apron-product-shot-e1436412098533.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Blue-Apron-product-shot-e1436412098533-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Blue-Apron-product-shot-e1436412098533-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Blue-Apron-product-shot-e1436412098533-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Blue-Apron-product-shot-e1436412098533-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Several meal kits from Blue Apron. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Blue Apron)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Farmers are not only reliant on the weather, but also on the whims of customers at farmers’ markets and the picky palates of chefs to sell their wares. Dennis is talking with the company to grow more peas, as well as some baby fennel and baby leeks. “I would really like to incorporate my business with Blue Apron’s in a more substantial way,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These meal kits can be expensive when compared to a home-cooked meal at around $8 and $12 per person. That’s not much more than take-out from most casual restaurants, but they do require 10-30 minutes of actual cooking time. They also create their own waste in the form of the packaging that holds, say, two tablespoons of butter for one recipe, or the ice packs to keep the food cold. But meal kit proponents are quick to point out that they’re also eliminating a lot of the packaging higher up in the food distribution stream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the most limiting part, at least to someone who knows how to cook, is that these services only offer a few options each day. That’s where a model more like \u003ca href=\"https://lukeslocal.com/\">Luke’s Local\u003c/a>, a San Francisco-based meal delivery company, comes in. Its stated goal is to help busy people get through the week. So the business offers recipe kits, but also heat-and-serve prepared meals and raw produce and ingredients, more like a regular CSA.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“[Our customers] love that they can get some of these things to cook dinner or have dinner at home, some fruit for the morning for breakfast, a box lunch to bring to work,” says owner Luke Chappell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Wadiak, Chappell has made working with farmers a priority from the beginning. He says that there’s rarely a day that goes by without communication between his team of chefs and farmers like Andy Griffin from Watsonville’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariquita.com/\">Mariquita Farm\u003c/a>\u003cspan class=\"st\">—\u003c/span>either they’re on the phone talking about what’s fresh that week, or Griffin is texting them photos of what’s ripe and good to feature. In a weekly meeting, the team looks at all the produce set to come in and figures out what to do with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Offering a range of options also eliminates waste almost entirely, says Chappell. For example, he can source a whole pig from Chico, California-based \u003ca href=\"http://llanoseco.com/\">Llano Seco Ranch\u003c/a> and use every part: the skin for chicharones, the bones for broth, the cuts for the prepared chefs meals, chorizo for a breakfast burrito, and tenderloins for a dinner recipe kit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food gurus like Michael Pollan and Mark Bittman often point to scratch cooking as \u003ca href=\"http://time.com/3483888/the-truth-about-home-cooking/\">the answer\u003c/a> to many of \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/02/magazine/02cooking-t.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0\"> our food system’s ills\u003c/a>, and the best way to eat sustainably grown ingredients without breaking the bank. But it’s unclear whether or not meal kits can ever serve as a bridge to more affordable, traditional home cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They could simply be a function of the new “\u003ca href=\"https://medium.com/ondemand/the-shut-in-economy-ec3ec1294816\">shut in economy\u003c/a>,” where those with means order everything into their homes and never leave. But those behind the companies say they’re working to make it easier for busy professionals and families, who might not cook at all otherwise, to take advantage of the values of community supported agriculture or farmers’ market shopping without the time commitment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My argument is that we take the good parts of the CSA, which is the seasonality, but we make it really usable for everybody,” says Wadiak. And no matter how you feel about the cooking-by-the-numbers approach to dinner, it’s hard to argue with that.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Putting food on the table on a busy weeknight is a universal problem. Now, a horde of new, sleek, venture capital-funded services has arrived on the market peddling what they think is a solution: kits made of raw ingredients portioned and sometimes prepped—that can be assembled quickly to make a meal “from scratch.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rising popularity of these meal kits has led to a Gold Rush of sorts. Big brands like \u003ca href=\"https://www.blueapron.com\">Blue Apron\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.plated.com\">Plated\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.hellofresh.com/\">Hello Fresh\u003c/a> cater to the general population, each offering a half dozen or so meal plans for everyone from families to vegetarians. Then there are the niche kits: organic food (\u003ca href=\"http://eatpurely.com/\">Eat Purely\u003c/a>), vegan food (\u003ca href=\"https://www.thepurplecarrot.com/\">The Purple Carrot\u003c/a>), Southern cooking (\u003ca href=\"https://www.peachdish.com/\">PeachDish\u003c/a>), and smoothies (\u003ca href=\"https://greenblender.com/\">Green Blender\u003c/a>). All claim to work with local suppliers to some extent, creating a whole new distribution outlet for small- to mid-size farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although these kits have the potential to waste a lot of packaging, many of the companies behind them actually hope to cut down on food waste. Instead of buying obscure ingredients you’ll only use once, or receiving three heads of kale in your weekly community supported agriculture (CSA) subscription box that will inevitably wilt in the crisper drawer, the kits provide you with only what you need for a recipe. Not a bad model for a country that throws away \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/10/07/uncovering-americas-food-waste-fiasco/\">35 million tons\u003c/a> of food a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some meal kit creators also strive to eliminate food waste higher in the supply chain. Blue Apron claims to deliver more than 3 million meals a month. That requires a lot of produce, and Blue Apron and other services are collaborating with farmers, in some cases planning menus a year out in order to sync with crop rotations, and ensure that all the food each farm grows goes to use. In doing so, they could be creating a new form of farm-to-table food delivery, somewhere in between a CSA and a restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’ve had a farm strategy since day one,” says Matthew Wadiak, founder and COO of Blue Apron. He says that the three-year-old company has spent the past few years talking with farmers, assessing their needs and challenges, then figuring out how to address them. Wadiak is a champion of forgotten heirloom produce, like \u003ca href=\"http://www.highmowingseeds.com/organic-non-gmo-seeds-honey-nut-butternut-squash.html\">honeynut squash\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://black%20panther%20soybeans\">black panther soybeans\u003c/a>, which he says goes over well with both his customers and the farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Blue Apron works with the 31 farms, and the culinary staff have sustainable agriculture backgrounds (the culinary director came from \u003ca href=\"https://www.stonebarnscenter.org/\">Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture\u003c/a>), so an awareness of crop rotation and cover crops has been built into their business model.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, the company recently worked with 12-acre Alewife Farm farm and others nearby in New York’s Hudson Valley to source thousands of pounds of pea shoots for a recent \u003ca href=\"https://www.blueapron.com/recipes/seared-wild-king-salmon-with-preserved-lemon-quinoa\">seared salmon dish\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/06/16/starting-out-a-new-farmers-first-growing-season/\">Alewife owner Tyler Dennis\u003c/a> says that the peas helped fix nitrogen in his soil, and the guaranteed revenue from the order was a huge boon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97894\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Blue-Apron-product-shot-e1436412098533.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Blue-Apron-product-shot-e1436412098533.jpg\" alt=\"Several meal kits from Blue Apron.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97894\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Blue-Apron-product-shot-e1436412098533.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Blue-Apron-product-shot-e1436412098533-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Blue-Apron-product-shot-e1436412098533-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Blue-Apron-product-shot-e1436412098533-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/Blue-Apron-product-shot-e1436412098533-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Several meal kits from Blue Apron. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Blue Apron)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Farmers are not only reliant on the weather, but also on the whims of customers at farmers’ markets and the picky palates of chefs to sell their wares. Dennis is talking with the company to grow more peas, as well as some baby fennel and baby leeks. “I would really like to incorporate my business with Blue Apron’s in a more substantial way,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These meal kits can be expensive when compared to a home-cooked meal at around $8 and $12 per person. That’s not much more than take-out from most casual restaurants, but they do require 10-30 minutes of actual cooking time. They also create their own waste in the form of the packaging that holds, say, two tablespoons of butter for one recipe, or the ice packs to keep the food cold. But meal kit proponents are quick to point out that they’re also eliminating a lot of the packaging higher up in the food distribution stream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the most limiting part, at least to someone who knows how to cook, is that these services only offer a few options each day. That’s where a model more like \u003ca href=\"https://lukeslocal.com/\">Luke’s Local\u003c/a>, a San Francisco-based meal delivery company, comes in. Its stated goal is to help busy people get through the week. So the business offers recipe kits, but also heat-and-serve prepared meals and raw produce and ingredients, more like a regular CSA.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“[Our customers] love that they can get some of these things to cook dinner or have dinner at home, some fruit for the morning for breakfast, a box lunch to bring to work,” says owner Luke Chappell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Wadiak, Chappell has made working with farmers a priority from the beginning. He says that there’s rarely a day that goes by without communication between his team of chefs and farmers like Andy Griffin from Watsonville’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariquita.com/\">Mariquita Farm\u003c/a>\u003cspan class=\"st\">—\u003c/span>either they’re on the phone talking about what’s fresh that week, or Griffin is texting them photos of what’s ripe and good to feature. In a weekly meeting, the team looks at all the produce set to come in and figures out what to do with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Offering a range of options also eliminates waste almost entirely, says Chappell. For example, he can source a whole pig from Chico, California-based \u003ca href=\"http://llanoseco.com/\">Llano Seco Ranch\u003c/a> and use every part: the skin for chicharones, the bones for broth, the cuts for the prepared chefs meals, chorizo for a breakfast burrito, and tenderloins for a dinner recipe kit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food gurus like Michael Pollan and Mark Bittman often point to scratch cooking as \u003ca href=\"http://time.com/3483888/the-truth-about-home-cooking/\">the answer\u003c/a> to many of \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/02/magazine/02cooking-t.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0\"> our food system’s ills\u003c/a>, and the best way to eat sustainably grown ingredients without breaking the bank. But it’s unclear whether or not meal kits can ever serve as a bridge to more affordable, traditional home cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They could simply be a function of the new “\u003ca href=\"https://medium.com/ondemand/the-shut-in-economy-ec3ec1294816\">shut in economy\u003c/a>,” where those with means order everything into their homes and never leave. But those behind the companies say they’re working to make it easier for busy professionals and families, who might not cook at all otherwise, to take advantage of the values of community supported agriculture or farmers’ market shopping without the time commitment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My argument is that we take the good parts of the CSA, which is the seasonality, but we make it really usable for everybody,” says Wadiak. And no matter how you feel about the cooking-by-the-numbers approach to dinner, it’s hard to argue with that.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Do Organic Farmers Need Special Seeds And Money To Breed Them?",
"title": "Do Organic Farmers Need Special Seeds And Money To Breed Them?",
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"content": "\u003cp>Rearranging veggie genes is big business, and we're not even talking about biotechnology. Private companies and university researchers \u003ca href=\"http://www.ers.usda.gov/media/890776/aib772_002.pdf\">spend\u003c/a> hundreds of millions of dollars every year breeding better genetic varieties of food crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But organic farmers say those programs have a big blind spot when it comes to figuring out which new varieties are truly better. Few companies or researchers test those varieties under organic conditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The first axiom of plant breeding is, you breed for the environment of intended use,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.clifbarfamilyfoundation.org/about-us/friends-in-the-field\">Matthew Dillon\u003c/a>, who founded a group called the Organic Seed Alliance. The problem is, organic fields and conventional fields can be very different environments, thanks to big differences in the ways that farmers deal with weeds and insect pests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For an organic farmer, Dillon says, the ideal bean variety would be one that's capable of fending for itself in a hostile environment. Perhaps it starts growing quickly enough to get a head start on the weeds, or finds a way to fend off insect pests, or develops a bigger root system to extract nutrients from the soil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>None of those genetic traits, though, would allow it to shine in a typical test plot where weeds are controlled with herbicides, nutrients come from synthetic fertilizer, and farmers fight off insects with standard insecticides.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As evidence, he points to an \u003ca href=\"http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1427&context=usdaarsfacpub\">experiment\u003c/a> at Washington State University, where breeders tested experimental varieties of wheat in both conventional and organic fields. The varieties that did well in conventional fields did not exactly match the top performers in organic fields, although some varieties did perform well in both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dillon founded the Organic Seed Alliance to promote the development of seeds for organic farmers. To be clear, these seeds are different from certified organic seeds which are produced in organic fields, but in most cases were originally created and selected, by plant breeders, in conventional fields.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dillon organization received some small grants from the Clif Bar Family Foundation, and eventually Clif Bar decided to give this cause a big boost.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Kit Crawford [the co-founder of Clif Bar] approached me and said, 'Hey, we're recognizing that, if we want to make change in the world of food and farming, we need to start with the seed,' \" Dillon recalls.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dillon went to work for Clif Bar & Company, which uses a lot of organic ingredients, as director of agricultural policy. He's also in charge of a \"Seed Matters\" initiative at the Clif Bar Family Foundation. His new employer, \u003ca href=\"http://www.clifbar.com/newsroom/clif-bar-spearheads-10-million-investment-to-fund-five-endowed-chairs-focused-on-organic-agricultural-research\">has now promised\u003c/a> to fund organic breeding endowments at five universities, at a cost that could reach $10 million. The first $2 million endowment will be established at the University of Wisconsin-Madison. Organic Valley, a farmer cooperative based in Wisconsin, matched Clif Bar's contribution to the university.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97690\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/bill_custom-2a93afd7bc87bac3b0651d9052b3403c0aae0e23-e1436222642126.jpg\" alt='Bill Tracy, who breeds organic versions of sweet corn in Wisconsin, recently released one called \"Who Gets Kissed.\"' width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97690\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bill Tracy, who breeds organic versions of sweet corn in Wisconsin, recently released one called \"Who Gets Kissed.\" \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Kristina Hubbard )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A few plant breeders at Wisconsin already have been working on seed varieties for organic farmers. \u003ca href=\"http://agronomy.wisc.edu/bill-tracy/\">Bill Tracy\u003c/a>, who breeds new versions of sweet corn, recently released a \u003ca href=\"http://www.highmowingseeds.com/blog/who-gets-kissed-corn/\">new one\u003c/a> called \"Who Gets Kissed.\" Among sweet corn breeders, \"I think I have the only organic seed program,\" Tracy says. Currently about 20 percent of Tracy's breeding program is aimed at organic farming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The name of his new variety refers to an old game that was played in times when people grew corn that was genetically diverse. At corn husking time, a lucky person who found a rare ear of corn with red kernels had the right to kiss anyone that he or she chose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This new variety, Tracy says, is particularly good at competing with weeds, and it has good resistance to diseases. It is also an old-style \"open-pollinated\" variety, rather than a hybrid. This means that farmers can use part of their harvest as seed for the next year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the future, Tracy says, he's hoping to create sweet corn varieties that are less prone to infestation by insects such as the corn ear worm. Biotech companies have created genetically engineered versions of corn with powerful insect resistance, but organic farmers have rejected the use of GMOs. Tracy hopes to find natural genetic resistance to insects in varieties of corn that grow in tropical regions, and introduce those genetic traits, through cross-pollination, into sweet corn varieties that American consumers like to eat. \"Flavor is most important,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tracy doesn't expect to achieve the same almost-total resistance to ear worms as GMOs offer, but \"I'd love to get to 50 percent resistance.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Breeders like Tracy will have the chance to apply for additional funding from the Clif Bar-funded endowment. And he says he's excited about the opportunity. The endowment will produce enough funding at least for an additional graduate student or field technician. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Rearranging veggie genes is big business, and we're not even talking about biotechnology. Private companies and university researchers \u003ca href=\"http://www.ers.usda.gov/media/890776/aib772_002.pdf\">spend\u003c/a> hundreds of millions of dollars every year breeding better genetic varieties of food crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But organic farmers say those programs have a big blind spot when it comes to figuring out which new varieties are truly better. Few companies or researchers test those varieties under organic conditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The first axiom of plant breeding is, you breed for the environment of intended use,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.clifbarfamilyfoundation.org/about-us/friends-in-the-field\">Matthew Dillon\u003c/a>, who founded a group called the Organic Seed Alliance. The problem is, organic fields and conventional fields can be very different environments, thanks to big differences in the ways that farmers deal with weeds and insect pests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For an organic farmer, Dillon says, the ideal bean variety would be one that's capable of fending for itself in a hostile environment. Perhaps it starts growing quickly enough to get a head start on the weeds, or finds a way to fend off insect pests, or develops a bigger root system to extract nutrients from the soil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>None of those genetic traits, though, would allow it to shine in a typical test plot where weeds are controlled with herbicides, nutrients come from synthetic fertilizer, and farmers fight off insects with standard insecticides.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As evidence, he points to an \u003ca href=\"http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1427&context=usdaarsfacpub\">experiment\u003c/a> at Washington State University, where breeders tested experimental varieties of wheat in both conventional and organic fields. The varieties that did well in conventional fields did not exactly match the top performers in organic fields, although some varieties did perform well in both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dillon founded the Organic Seed Alliance to promote the development of seeds for organic farmers. To be clear, these seeds are different from certified organic seeds which are produced in organic fields, but in most cases were originally created and selected, by plant breeders, in conventional fields.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dillon organization received some small grants from the Clif Bar Family Foundation, and eventually Clif Bar decided to give this cause a big boost.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Kit Crawford [the co-founder of Clif Bar] approached me and said, 'Hey, we're recognizing that, if we want to make change in the world of food and farming, we need to start with the seed,' \" Dillon recalls.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dillon went to work for Clif Bar & Company, which uses a lot of organic ingredients, as director of agricultural policy. He's also in charge of a \"Seed Matters\" initiative at the Clif Bar Family Foundation. His new employer, \u003ca href=\"http://www.clifbar.com/newsroom/clif-bar-spearheads-10-million-investment-to-fund-five-endowed-chairs-focused-on-organic-agricultural-research\">has now promised\u003c/a> to fund organic breeding endowments at five universities, at a cost that could reach $10 million. The first $2 million endowment will be established at the University of Wisconsin-Madison. Organic Valley, a farmer cooperative based in Wisconsin, matched Clif Bar's contribution to the university.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97690\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/bill_custom-2a93afd7bc87bac3b0651d9052b3403c0aae0e23-e1436222642126.jpg\" alt='Bill Tracy, who breeds organic versions of sweet corn in Wisconsin, recently released one called \"Who Gets Kissed.\"' width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97690\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bill Tracy, who breeds organic versions of sweet corn in Wisconsin, recently released one called \"Who Gets Kissed.\" \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Kristina Hubbard )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A few plant breeders at Wisconsin already have been working on seed varieties for organic farmers. \u003ca href=\"http://agronomy.wisc.edu/bill-tracy/\">Bill Tracy\u003c/a>, who breeds new versions of sweet corn, recently released a \u003ca href=\"http://www.highmowingseeds.com/blog/who-gets-kissed-corn/\">new one\u003c/a> called \"Who Gets Kissed.\" Among sweet corn breeders, \"I think I have the only organic seed program,\" Tracy says. Currently about 20 percent of Tracy's breeding program is aimed at organic farming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The name of his new variety refers to an old game that was played in times when people grew corn that was genetically diverse. At corn husking time, a lucky person who found a rare ear of corn with red kernels had the right to kiss anyone that he or she chose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This new variety, Tracy says, is particularly good at competing with weeds, and it has good resistance to diseases. It is also an old-style \"open-pollinated\" variety, rather than a hybrid. This means that farmers can use part of their harvest as seed for the next year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the future, Tracy says, he's hoping to create sweet corn varieties that are less prone to infestation by insects such as the corn ear worm. Biotech companies have created genetically engineered versions of corn with powerful insect resistance, but organic farmers have rejected the use of GMOs. Tracy hopes to find natural genetic resistance to insects in varieties of corn that grow in tropical regions, and introduce those genetic traits, through cross-pollination, into sweet corn varieties that American consumers like to eat. \"Flavor is most important,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tracy doesn't expect to achieve the same almost-total resistance to ear worms as GMOs offer, but \"I'd love to get to 50 percent resistance.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Breeders like Tracy will have the chance to apply for additional funding from the Clif Bar-funded endowment. And he says he's excited about the opportunity. The endowment will produce enough funding at least for an additional graduate student or field technician. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Is Your Grass-Fed Beef for Real? Here’s How to Tell and Why it Matters",
"title": "Is Your Grass-Fed Beef for Real? Here’s How to Tell and Why it Matters",
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"content": "\u003cp>When you buy a pound of hamburger in the grocery store, you’re likely to be bombarded by an incredible assortment of labels. With all-natural, grass-fed, free-range, pastured, sustainably sourced, and certified organic options to choose from, it’s not easy to parse which beef is actually the best.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In recent years, demand for grass-fed beef has grown rapidly, thanks to the popularity of \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2015/04/16/4-things-you-should-know-about-the-paleo-diet/\">high-protein diets\u003c/a> and growing consumer awareness about the \u003ca href=\"https://consumersunion.org/news/the-overuse-of-antibiotics-in-food-animals-threatens-public-health-2/\">overuse of antibiotics on farms\u003c/a> and other related concerns. Grass-fed beef is also seen as nutritionally superior to its corn-fed counterparts, thanks to \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16500874\">the omega-3 fatty acids that cows ingest\u003c/a> when they graze on clover and other grasses. Grass-fed burger chains are \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2015/04/01/how-a-family-of-farmers-opened-a-restaurant-and-created-their-own-supply-chain/\">popping up\u003c/a> all over the country, and even Carl’s Jr. began \u003ca href=\"http://www.takepart.com/article/2014/12/10/carls-jr-grass-fed-hamburgers\">offering\u003c/a> a grass-fed burger earlier this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what exactly do we mean when we say “grass-fed”? And is all grass-fed beef the same?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>It’s All in the Finishing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“All cattle are grass-fed at one time in their life, until most end up in a feedlot where they’re finished on grain,” says Texas rancher Gerry Shudde. Indeed, most cows spend at least six months eating grass, before they are “finished,” or fattened up, with grain. \u003ca href=\"http://www.beefusa.org/uDocs/Feedlot%20finishing%20fact%20sheet%20FINAL_4%2026%2006.pdf\">The National Cattlemen’s Beef Association puts that number at 12 months\u003c/a>, but most grain-finished beef cows don’t live beyond 18 months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to rancher and the author of \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/12/01/nicolette-niman-our-beef-shouldnt-be-with-cows/\">Defending Beef\u003c/a> Nicolette Hahn Niman, the real number likely falls somewhere in the middle. “On average, the cattle in the U.S. that is going through feedlots is slaughtered at 14-16 months,” she says. “They do grow fatter and faster if they’re being fed grain, so they’re going into feedlots at younger ages to shorten that time as much as possible.” In a feedlot environment, grain causes cows to put on about one pound for every six pounds of feed they eat. In contrast, grass-fed cows are slaughtered anywhere between 18-36 months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When you keep cattle on grass their whole lives, and truly have them forage for a diet that their bodies have evolved to eat, you allow them to grow at a slower pace,” says Niman. Not surprisingly, caring for the animal for so long can be expensive for ranchers and consumers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many informed eaters will tell you that this slower process results in a signature flavor and distinct leanness that sets it apart from its corn-fed counterpart, but the fact is that beef producers can label their product “grass-fed,” even if the animal is fed grain over the course of its lifetime. Unlike the lengthy auditing process involved in U.S. Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) organic certification, the use of “grass-fed” is only regulated under the agency’s “\u003ca href=\"http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/ams.fetchTemplateData.do?template=TemplateN&rightNav1=GrassFedMarketingClaimStandards&topNav=&leftNav=GradingCertificationandVerfication&page=GrassFedMarketingClaims&resultType=\">marketing claim standards.\u003c/a>”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to these standards, grass-fed cows are supposed to be given continuous access to rangeland, and they cannot be fed grains or grain by-products. In the event of drought or other “adverse weather conditions,” farmers are allowed to bend these rules if the animal’s wellness is in jeopardy, but they must maintain meticulous records. Unfortunately, these regulations are, for the most part, a paper tiger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Missing Oversight\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marilyn Noble of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.americangrassfed.org/\">American Grassfed Association\u003c/a> argues that beef producers have little incentive to stick with those rules. “It’s a big issue, and there is a lot of misunderstanding. The Agricultural Marketing Service developed the grass-fed standard, but the Food Safety and Inspection Service actually enforces it,” says Noble. “The two organizations, even though they’re both part of the USDA, don’t communicate especially well. You see a lot of beef labeled as ‘grass-fed,’ but whether or not it actually meets that standard is questionable.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Noble’s skepticism is rooted in the fact that, for the most part, the USDA allows producers to determine whether or not their beef meets the grass-fed beef marketing claim standard. Noble says farms “self-certify” their own beef, and the Food Safety and Inspection Service generally goes along with their claim. The ubiquitous “naturally raised” label on meat \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/09/12/can-you-trust-the-natural-label/\">has no enforceable meaning either\u003c/a>, and further muddles a consumer’s ability to find beef that has been exclusively raised on pasture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The American Grassfed Association, established in 2003, has far more stringent standards for its own label than the USDA, and hires third-party auditors to inspect the farms of its \u003ca href=\"http://www.americangrassfed.org/producer-profiles/\">100-plus certified producers\u003c/a> across the country each year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Farmers’ markets are also often full of vendors offering grass-fed beef from their own pastures. And the rising popularity of \u003ca href=\"http://www.localharvest.org/store/meats.jsp\">meat CSAs\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatwild.com/products/\">whole animal buying clubs\u003c/a> is an indication of how dramatically this trend has grown in recent years. With these options, consumers can talk directly to farmers to find out how their beef was raised. Many of these producers have begun using the term “pasture raised,” another unregulated labeling term that is popular among ranchers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even Whole Foods has adopted some of this farm-to-market language in its meat sourcing standards. For example, “pasture-centered” farms score a 4 out of 5 on the grocer’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/about-our-products/quality-standards/animal-welfare-standards\">Animal Welfare Rating scale (owned by Global Animal Partnership)\u003c/a>. In reality, Niman says, these animals may not be doing much of the foraging that gives grass-fed beef its nutritional benefits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“[Whole Foods] has been encouraging this segment of beef in the marketplace where animals are roaming on a small area with vegetative cover,” says Niman. “But they’re being provided feed, and not actually getting most of their nutrition from foraging. It’s almost like a feedlot.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatlikeitmatters.com/\">BN Ranch\u003c/a>, which Nicolette operates with her husband, Bill Niman, “the godfather of sustainable meat” and founder of Niman Ranch, cattle is given more time to slowly develop fat over a period of more than two years. For the Nimans, good “eating quality” in the beef is paramount. But, Nicolette says, that’s not always the case on farms where people are “doing it for philosophical reasons. They believe that grazing is ecologically superior, and that it is the right way to raise cattle. The things that are motivating them are not eating quality.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a result, grass-fed beef’s lean flavor is often seen as inferior. Some chefs, particularly in fine-dining steakhouses, still resist serving grass-fed beef in favor of corn-fed, USDA prime beef, because of its fat content.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Worth the Wait\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michael Sohocki, chef of \u003ca href=\"http://www.restaurantgwendolyn.com/\">Restaurant Gwendolyn\u003c/a> in San Antonio, Texas, chooses grass-fed beef over the cheaper, richer, corn-fed cuts because he firmly believes that the process is worth the extra time and money. And his discerning diners come to his restaurant because they know the meat has been properly sourced. “When you eat stockyard beef, all of that beef is the same,” says Sohocki. “It’s done that way to guarantee its consistency. That’s what McDonald’s specializes in.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sohocki calls grass-fed beef “the only trustworthy product left in this world.” He sources it from nearby \u003ca href=\"http://www.shudderanch.com/\">Shudde Ranch\u003c/a>, where Jeanne and Gerry Shudde make a point of raising a specialized cross-breed of species suited to naturally develop fat on pasture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our [cows] are on grass when they’re with their mother. And when separated, they stay on the grass,” says Gerry Shudde.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Shuddes decided to go grass-fed by chance after acquiring a herd of Longhorn cattle that they planned to cross-breed with their own. The offspring did not fare well, but the Shuddes ultimately decided to keep the longhorn cows. When they butchered a six-year-old cow, which had been raised on grass for much longer than usual, Jeanne says, “It was really tender. We thought ‘gosh, this tastes better than what we get in the grocery store.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From there, the Shuddes developed their own, new breed of grass-fed cattle. They were already raising cows without antibiotics or hormones, and their farm eventually evolved into a completely grass-fed operation by 2002. Still, they had to find the right cow to produce the quality of beef that they desired. “Most of the animals that you find today have been genetically selected to do well in a feedlot environment,” says Jeanne. “If you take them and put them on grass and think they will [taste good], I’d say maybe, maybe not. But if you take an animal that is genetically survival-oriented, it will become well-marbled on grass.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their own cows are now a cross between that original herd of Longhorn cattle and a heritage Devon bull. “Our belief is that if they eat what they evolved to eat, and live in the way that they have evolved to, the nutrition for the animal’s survival will be there,” says Jeanne. “If the nutrition is there, humans will get that nutrition when we eat the meat.”\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When you buy a pound of hamburger in the grocery store, you’re likely to be bombarded by an incredible assortment of labels. With all-natural, grass-fed, free-range, pastured, sustainably sourced, and certified organic options to choose from, it’s not easy to parse which beef is actually the best.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In recent years, demand for grass-fed beef has grown rapidly, thanks to the popularity of \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2015/04/16/4-things-you-should-know-about-the-paleo-diet/\">high-protein diets\u003c/a> and growing consumer awareness about the \u003ca href=\"https://consumersunion.org/news/the-overuse-of-antibiotics-in-food-animals-threatens-public-health-2/\">overuse of antibiotics on farms\u003c/a> and other related concerns. Grass-fed beef is also seen as nutritionally superior to its corn-fed counterparts, thanks to \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16500874\">the omega-3 fatty acids that cows ingest\u003c/a> when they graze on clover and other grasses. Grass-fed burger chains are \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2015/04/01/how-a-family-of-farmers-opened-a-restaurant-and-created-their-own-supply-chain/\">popping up\u003c/a> all over the country, and even Carl’s Jr. began \u003ca href=\"http://www.takepart.com/article/2014/12/10/carls-jr-grass-fed-hamburgers\">offering\u003c/a> a grass-fed burger earlier this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what exactly do we mean when we say “grass-fed”? And is all grass-fed beef the same?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>It’s All in the Finishing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“All cattle are grass-fed at one time in their life, until most end up in a feedlot where they’re finished on grain,” says Texas rancher Gerry Shudde. Indeed, most cows spend at least six months eating grass, before they are “finished,” or fattened up, with grain. \u003ca href=\"http://www.beefusa.org/uDocs/Feedlot%20finishing%20fact%20sheet%20FINAL_4%2026%2006.pdf\">The National Cattlemen’s Beef Association puts that number at 12 months\u003c/a>, but most grain-finished beef cows don’t live beyond 18 months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to rancher and the author of \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/12/01/nicolette-niman-our-beef-shouldnt-be-with-cows/\">Defending Beef\u003c/a> Nicolette Hahn Niman, the real number likely falls somewhere in the middle. “On average, the cattle in the U.S. that is going through feedlots is slaughtered at 14-16 months,” she says. “They do grow fatter and faster if they’re being fed grain, so they’re going into feedlots at younger ages to shorten that time as much as possible.” In a feedlot environment, grain causes cows to put on about one pound for every six pounds of feed they eat. In contrast, grass-fed cows are slaughtered anywhere between 18-36 months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When you keep cattle on grass their whole lives, and truly have them forage for a diet that their bodies have evolved to eat, you allow them to grow at a slower pace,” says Niman. Not surprisingly, caring for the animal for so long can be expensive for ranchers and consumers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many informed eaters will tell you that this slower process results in a signature flavor and distinct leanness that sets it apart from its corn-fed counterpart, but the fact is that beef producers can label their product “grass-fed,” even if the animal is fed grain over the course of its lifetime. Unlike the lengthy auditing process involved in U.S. Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) organic certification, the use of “grass-fed” is only regulated under the agency’s “\u003ca href=\"http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/ams.fetchTemplateData.do?template=TemplateN&rightNav1=GrassFedMarketingClaimStandards&topNav=&leftNav=GradingCertificationandVerfication&page=GrassFedMarketingClaims&resultType=\">marketing claim standards.\u003c/a>”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to these standards, grass-fed cows are supposed to be given continuous access to rangeland, and they cannot be fed grains or grain by-products. In the event of drought or other “adverse weather conditions,” farmers are allowed to bend these rules if the animal’s wellness is in jeopardy, but they must maintain meticulous records. Unfortunately, these regulations are, for the most part, a paper tiger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Missing Oversight\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marilyn Noble of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.americangrassfed.org/\">American Grassfed Association\u003c/a> argues that beef producers have little incentive to stick with those rules. “It’s a big issue, and there is a lot of misunderstanding. The Agricultural Marketing Service developed the grass-fed standard, but the Food Safety and Inspection Service actually enforces it,” says Noble. “The two organizations, even though they’re both part of the USDA, don’t communicate especially well. You see a lot of beef labeled as ‘grass-fed,’ but whether or not it actually meets that standard is questionable.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Noble’s skepticism is rooted in the fact that, for the most part, the USDA allows producers to determine whether or not their beef meets the grass-fed beef marketing claim standard. Noble says farms “self-certify” their own beef, and the Food Safety and Inspection Service generally goes along with their claim. The ubiquitous “naturally raised” label on meat \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/09/12/can-you-trust-the-natural-label/\">has no enforceable meaning either\u003c/a>, and further muddles a consumer’s ability to find beef that has been exclusively raised on pasture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The American Grassfed Association, established in 2003, has far more stringent standards for its own label than the USDA, and hires third-party auditors to inspect the farms of its \u003ca href=\"http://www.americangrassfed.org/producer-profiles/\">100-plus certified producers\u003c/a> across the country each year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Farmers’ markets are also often full of vendors offering grass-fed beef from their own pastures. And the rising popularity of \u003ca href=\"http://www.localharvest.org/store/meats.jsp\">meat CSAs\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatwild.com/products/\">whole animal buying clubs\u003c/a> is an indication of how dramatically this trend has grown in recent years. With these options, consumers can talk directly to farmers to find out how their beef was raised. Many of these producers have begun using the term “pasture raised,” another unregulated labeling term that is popular among ranchers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even Whole Foods has adopted some of this farm-to-market language in its meat sourcing standards. For example, “pasture-centered” farms score a 4 out of 5 on the grocer’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/about-our-products/quality-standards/animal-welfare-standards\">Animal Welfare Rating scale (owned by Global Animal Partnership)\u003c/a>. In reality, Niman says, these animals may not be doing much of the foraging that gives grass-fed beef its nutritional benefits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“[Whole Foods] has been encouraging this segment of beef in the marketplace where animals are roaming on a small area with vegetative cover,” says Niman. “But they’re being provided feed, and not actually getting most of their nutrition from foraging. It’s almost like a feedlot.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatlikeitmatters.com/\">BN Ranch\u003c/a>, which Nicolette operates with her husband, Bill Niman, “the godfather of sustainable meat” and founder of Niman Ranch, cattle is given more time to slowly develop fat over a period of more than two years. For the Nimans, good “eating quality” in the beef is paramount. But, Nicolette says, that’s not always the case on farms where people are “doing it for philosophical reasons. They believe that grazing is ecologically superior, and that it is the right way to raise cattle. The things that are motivating them are not eating quality.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a result, grass-fed beef’s lean flavor is often seen as inferior. Some chefs, particularly in fine-dining steakhouses, still resist serving grass-fed beef in favor of corn-fed, USDA prime beef, because of its fat content.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Worth the Wait\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michael Sohocki, chef of \u003ca href=\"http://www.restaurantgwendolyn.com/\">Restaurant Gwendolyn\u003c/a> in San Antonio, Texas, chooses grass-fed beef over the cheaper, richer, corn-fed cuts because he firmly believes that the process is worth the extra time and money. And his discerning diners come to his restaurant because they know the meat has been properly sourced. “When you eat stockyard beef, all of that beef is the same,” says Sohocki. “It’s done that way to guarantee its consistency. That’s what McDonald’s specializes in.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sohocki calls grass-fed beef “the only trustworthy product left in this world.” He sources it from nearby \u003ca href=\"http://www.shudderanch.com/\">Shudde Ranch\u003c/a>, where Jeanne and Gerry Shudde make a point of raising a specialized cross-breed of species suited to naturally develop fat on pasture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our [cows] are on grass when they’re with their mother. And when separated, they stay on the grass,” says Gerry Shudde.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Shuddes decided to go grass-fed by chance after acquiring a herd of Longhorn cattle that they planned to cross-breed with their own. The offspring did not fare well, but the Shuddes ultimately decided to keep the longhorn cows. When they butchered a six-year-old cow, which had been raised on grass for much longer than usual, Jeanne says, “It was really tender. We thought ‘gosh, this tastes better than what we get in the grocery store.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From there, the Shuddes developed their own, new breed of grass-fed cattle. They were already raising cows without antibiotics or hormones, and their farm eventually evolved into a completely grass-fed operation by 2002. Still, they had to find the right cow to produce the quality of beef that they desired. “Most of the animals that you find today have been genetically selected to do well in a feedlot environment,” says Jeanne. “If you take them and put them on grass and think they will [taste good], I’d say maybe, maybe not. But if you take an animal that is genetically survival-oriented, it will become well-marbled on grass.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"soldout": {
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"title": "SOLD OUT: Rethinking Housing in America",
"tagline": "A new future for housing",
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