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"disqusTitle": "Anthony Bourdain Urges Americans To 'Value The Things We Eat' in New Documentary \u003cem>Wasted! The Story of Food Waste\u003c/em>",
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"content": "\u003cp>One-third of all the food produced each year for human consumption is never eaten. That adds up to about 1.3 billion tons of waste per year. That unappetizing fact is the inspiration for a new documentary, \u003cem>Wasted! The Story of Food Waste\u003c/em>, which was released on Oct. 13 in theaters and on demand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to stories from star chefs such as Dan Barber and Mario Batali, the documentary explores the problem of food waste in America, as well as worldwide policies and possible systemic solutions in U.S. schools and grocery stores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Here & Now\u003c/em>'s Jeremy Hobson talks with the film's host and renowned chef Anthony Bourdain.\u003cbr>\n[audio mp3=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/BUR4259091323.mp3\"][/audio]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121661\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2770px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM.png\" alt=\"Anthony Bourdain in new documentary, Wasted! The Story of Food Waste.\" width=\"2770\" height=\"1400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121661\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM.png 2770w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM-160x81.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM-800x404.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM-768x388.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM-1020x516.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM-1180x596.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM-960x485.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM-240x121.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM-375x190.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM-520x263.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2770px) 100vw, 2770px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anthony Bourdain in new documentary, Wasted! The Story of Food Waste.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On getting involved with the documentary\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't like the idea of being an advocate. I don't like to be certain of anything, or present myself as certain of anything, or adhering to any orthodox view on anything. I'm a doubter by nature. But this is an issue that goes fundamentally against my instincts as a longtime working cook and chef, where we were taught from the very beginning that one just does not and cannot and must not waste food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I thought about how people struggle for food every day in so many places and how much they make with so little, very proudly and generously. How delicious food can be even in places where they have so little to work with. How important those principles and techniques are to even the classic French and Italian gastronomies that I grew up with and love. So that kind of informed my decision to jump into this thing with both feet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On what people can do to limit food waste\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It begins with a sense of how we value the things we eat. It begins with just starting to pay attention to how much food you're buying, how much you are actually using, what you are doing with it. Simply by thinking about your home cooking in a way that professional chefs think about restaurant food, meaning, when you order food for the evening — because profit margins are so narrow in the restaurant business — the chef has always had to think, 'What happens if I don't sell all the chicken? What will I do with the leftovers? How will I make something delicious that I can sell that people will want and desire the next day?' If you think about food when you shop in that way, and about all of the parts of proteins and vegetables that we don't currently use, that are in fact quite delicious — in many cases more delicious than the things we attach artificial value to — that's a start.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then demand more of our retailers. It is shocking that we expect our chain supermarkets to have towers of perfect-looking, highly perishable produce. They put a lot of that produce on the shelf deliberately to look abundant, and for no other reason. They know that in order to maintain this appearance of endless abundance, they're gonna have to throw out a significant portion of it. We don't need that, we shouldn't want it and we shouldn't tolerate it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On eating different parts of animals\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Foods that we never valued even 20 years ago are now the dishes of the moment. I remember when I started cooking in the early '70s, bluefin tuna would be sold for cat food. Octopus was a garbage fish, a trash fish ... beef cheeks, pork belly. These are hot menu items now. In many cases, in order to eat the food — the ingredients and the traditional dishes that the poor used to have to eat in this country — you have to go to a hipster restaurant in Brooklyn and pay $32 for a plate. So this is not that much of a stretch. It's really a matter of marketing and inspiring people, and in a lot of ways, it's up to chefs and food leaders to convince people with a beautiful and delicious argument that this is what food can be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On possible U.S. laws that regulate food waste\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In South Korea, you are taxed or penalized. They monitor how much usable waste you're generating from your home, and you get a bill at the end of the month if you're being particularly wasteful. Animal protein, particularly fish and beef, I don't think these are ever going to get less expensive or more plentiful. So, it is inevitable, if we don't get our act together, that sooner or later in the face of dwindling resources and supplies, that there will be some sort of regulation. And that's something that Americans fundamentally hate, understandably. Hopefully we'll never reach that point. The way forward is to eat better, more delicious food — to enjoy cooking and eating it more, not chaw away mindlessly at this seemingly endless supply of flavorless abundance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the value of kids understanding where food comes from\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have noticed in my travels, I think anyone who works in a farming community, anyone who lives close to or is involved in the production of food — whether they're fishing, farming, raising beef, whatever — they're less likely to waste, because they've seen it up close, how much work goes into it, what's involved. So I think even limited experience as a child seeing where food comes from and what's involved, this is surely a good thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This interview aired on Oct. 10 on \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.wbur.org/hereandnow/2017/10/10/anthony-bourdain-wasted\">\u003cem>Here & Now,\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> a public radio show from NPR and WBUR in Boston.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>One-third of all the food produced each year for human consumption is never eaten. That adds up to about 1.3 billion tons of waste per year. That unappetizing fact is the inspiration for a new documentary, \u003cem>Wasted! The Story of Food Waste\u003c/em>, which was released on Oct. 13 in theaters and on demand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to stories from star chefs such as Dan Barber and Mario Batali, the documentary explores the problem of food waste in America, as well as worldwide policies and possible systemic solutions in U.S. schools and grocery stores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Here & Now\u003c/em>'s Jeremy Hobson talks with the film's host and renowned chef Anthony Bourdain.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121661\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2770px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM.png\" alt=\"Anthony Bourdain in new documentary, Wasted! The Story of Food Waste.\" width=\"2770\" height=\"1400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121661\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM.png 2770w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM-160x81.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM-800x404.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM-768x388.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM-1020x516.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM-1180x596.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM-960x485.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM-240x121.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM-375x190.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-2.54.07-PM-520x263.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2770px) 100vw, 2770px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anthony Bourdain in new documentary, Wasted! The Story of Food Waste.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On getting involved with the documentary\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't like the idea of being an advocate. I don't like to be certain of anything, or present myself as certain of anything, or adhering to any orthodox view on anything. I'm a doubter by nature. But this is an issue that goes fundamentally against my instincts as a longtime working cook and chef, where we were taught from the very beginning that one just does not and cannot and must not waste food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I thought about how people struggle for food every day in so many places and how much they make with so little, very proudly and generously. How delicious food can be even in places where they have so little to work with. How important those principles and techniques are to even the classic French and Italian gastronomies that I grew up with and love. So that kind of informed my decision to jump into this thing with both feet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On what people can do to limit food waste\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It begins with a sense of how we value the things we eat. It begins with just starting to pay attention to how much food you're buying, how much you are actually using, what you are doing with it. Simply by thinking about your home cooking in a way that professional chefs think about restaurant food, meaning, when you order food for the evening — because profit margins are so narrow in the restaurant business — the chef has always had to think, 'What happens if I don't sell all the chicken? What will I do with the leftovers? How will I make something delicious that I can sell that people will want and desire the next day?' If you think about food when you shop in that way, and about all of the parts of proteins and vegetables that we don't currently use, that are in fact quite delicious — in many cases more delicious than the things we attach artificial value to — that's a start.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then demand more of our retailers. It is shocking that we expect our chain supermarkets to have towers of perfect-looking, highly perishable produce. They put a lot of that produce on the shelf deliberately to look abundant, and for no other reason. They know that in order to maintain this appearance of endless abundance, they're gonna have to throw out a significant portion of it. We don't need that, we shouldn't want it and we shouldn't tolerate it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On eating different parts of animals\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Foods that we never valued even 20 years ago are now the dishes of the moment. I remember when I started cooking in the early '70s, bluefin tuna would be sold for cat food. Octopus was a garbage fish, a trash fish ... beef cheeks, pork belly. These are hot menu items now. In many cases, in order to eat the food — the ingredients and the traditional dishes that the poor used to have to eat in this country — you have to go to a hipster restaurant in Brooklyn and pay $32 for a plate. So this is not that much of a stretch. It's really a matter of marketing and inspiring people, and in a lot of ways, it's up to chefs and food leaders to convince people with a beautiful and delicious argument that this is what food can be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On possible U.S. laws that regulate food waste\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In South Korea, you are taxed or penalized. They monitor how much usable waste you're generating from your home, and you get a bill at the end of the month if you're being particularly wasteful. Animal protein, particularly fish and beef, I don't think these are ever going to get less expensive or more plentiful. So, it is inevitable, if we don't get our act together, that sooner or later in the face of dwindling resources and supplies, that there will be some sort of regulation. And that's something that Americans fundamentally hate, understandably. Hopefully we'll never reach that point. The way forward is to eat better, more delicious food — to enjoy cooking and eating it more, not chaw away mindlessly at this seemingly endless supply of flavorless abundance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the value of kids understanding where food comes from\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have noticed in my travels, I think anyone who works in a farming community, anyone who lives close to or is involved in the production of food — whether they're fishing, farming, raising beef, whatever — they're less likely to waste, because they've seen it up close, how much work goes into it, what's involved. So I think even limited experience as a child seeing where food comes from and what's involved, this is surely a good thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This interview aired on Oct. 10 on \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.wbur.org/hereandnow/2017/10/10/anthony-bourdain-wasted\">\u003cem>Here & Now,\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> a public radio show from NPR and WBUR in Boston.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Tapping Rural America: Craft Breweries Pour New Life Into Small Towns",
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"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121596\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2994px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4.jpg\" alt=\"Bolo Beer Company head brewer Chris Hernstrom traded the Northwest for the relatively quiet Great Plains for a new challenge.\" width=\"2994\" height=\"1996\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121596\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4.jpg 2994w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2994px) 100vw, 2994px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bolo Beer Company head brewer Chris Hernstrom traded the Northwest for the relatively quiet Great Plains for a new challenge. \u003ccite>(Kirk Siegler/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chris Hernstrom was brewing in the craft beer mecca of Bend, Ore., when an ad caught his eye: Want to live somewhere gorgeous and make beer for a small community?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It just seemed like an interesting challenge to come out to basically the exact opposite of Bend, some place where the brewing industry is still in its fledgling stages,\" Hernstrom says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That place, Hernstrom's new home, is the cattle ranching hub of Valentine, Neb., population 2,700, tucked into the Niobrara River valley in the Sand Hills.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hernstrom is head brewer at the Bolo Beer Company. On a recent weeknight, he was pouring pints of Aquifer Ale and filling carryout growlers of Wild West Wheat. With its modern pendant lights and bar made of reclaimed wood, the newly opened taproom looks as if it would be more at home in Seattle or Denver than in rural Nebraska.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that is no accident. After Hernstrom was recruited to town, he noticed there were a lot of recently transplanted 20- and 30-somethings — some new to town but many who returned home after being away for college or living in cities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They know what they like about those other places they've lived, and so they're trying to make that happen here in the small towns,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Situated in remote north-central Nebraska along the South Dakota state line, the region has been graying and emptying out for decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in Valentine at least, there are signs this is changing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I feel like I'm in a city,\" says Whitney Mayhew, recalling stepping inside the new brewery for the first time recently.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121595\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41.jpg\" alt=\"More young people are transplanting to small towns, such as Valentine, Neb., population 2,700 and the largest town of its size for at least a two-hour drive in any direction.\" width=\"3000\" height=\"1999\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121595\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41.jpg 3000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3000px) 100vw, 3000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">More young people are transplanting to small towns, such as Valentine, Neb., population 2,700 and the largest town of its size for at least a two-hour drive in any direction. \u003ccite>(Kirk Siegler/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mayhew's husband grew up in Valentine, and the couple decided to relocate from Columbia, S.C., last year to be closer to family. They saw a niche and opened a new boutique clothing store a few blocks away from the Bolo taproom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says the brewery has fast become a community gathering place and supports other new businesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You're definitely seeing a lot of people wanting to find ways that this city can grow and attract more people to come in here who want to enjoy the small, simple life,\" Mayhew says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"simple life\" comes with a few adjustments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I miss my Target,\" Mayhew says, laughing. \"We had Target seven minutes away [in South Carolina].\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's more than a three-hour drive now to the nearest airport. And the closest major city is Denver — six hours. But Mayhew says she doesn't miss the traffic and the crime. People don't lock their doors. Everyone knows everyone here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While it's probably too early to call it a trend, what is happening in Valentine is part of a broader cultural phenomenon in rural America. Young people who grew up in small towns and have been watching them struggle from afar are feeling this calling to come home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take Valentine's own mayor, Kyle Arganbright. The 35-year-old decided to move home a few years ago after graduate school in Lincoln, Neb., and a stint in Washington, D.C. He and a buddy from high school who also recently moved back are two of Bolo's main investors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I just thought there was a lot of opportunity here,\" Arganbright says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121597\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2664px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836.jpg\" alt=\"Valentine's Mayor Kyle Arganbright sees the new brewery as a catalyst to grow other artisanal businesses and the town's tourist economy.\" width=\"2664\" height=\"1998\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121597\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836.jpg 2664w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2664px) 100vw, 2664px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Valentine's Mayor Kyle Arganbright sees the new brewery as a catalyst to grow other artisanal businesses and the town's tourist economy. \u003ccite>(Kirk Siegler/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Valentine was already doing a lot better than a lot of isolated towns its size. It is a hub for the livestock business, shopping and services. It is also a draw for tourists flocking to the scenic Sand Hills for bird-watching, hunting and boating. Unemployment in Cherry County, where Valentine is located, \u003ca href=\"https://data.bls.gov/map/MapToolServlet?survey=la&map=county&seasonal=u\">is 2.3 percent\u003c/a>, lower than the national rate of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2017/10/06/556071100/u-s-jobs-dropped-by-33-000-in-september-likely-due-to-storms\">4.2 percent\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a lot of those are recreation and jobs tend to be seasonal, and many other people in town hold down multiple jobs to get by.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Arganbright, agriculture will always be the anchor in Valentine, but he sees a niche in the country's growing creative and artisan economies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you're not growing, you're dying,\" he says. \"You can't sit there stagnant, particularly when all these urban populations are exploding.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, the idea of a craft brewery as a model for small-town revitalization is being tested across the Midwest, with some early successes: \u003ca href=\"http://www.omaha.com/eedition/sunrise/articles/beer-from-tart-to-finish/article_191c1fe7-ee43-5073-ab5a-481255acc0e6.html\">Carson, Iowa\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.mywebtimes.com/news/local/brewery-boom-starved-rock-country-could-become-the-next-beer/article_29655375-5d46-5130-8e59-1cce124b5afa.html\">Ottawa, Ill.\u003c/a>, to name two examples.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would hate to overpromote this as the panacea for every small town,\" says Chris Merrett, director of the Illinois Institute for Rural Affairs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Merrett says it has potential in places like Valentine that already have natural amenities and attractions around them and don't have to rely on the loyalty of local customers only.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bolo's change hasn't been without its early stumbles. It can be hard to get supplies quickly out here. Business also drops off when the tourists leave. And Hernstrom admits that the idea of a craft brewery is still pretty new, if even strange, to some longtime locals. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're the weird people that ride bicycles around,\" Hernstrom says. \"And we've convinced a lot of people to start riding their bicycles more.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Chris the Brewer,\" as he is known around town, makes good beer, too, and that never hurts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'd love to one day be able to look back on this and map the growth of Valentine,\" Hernstrom says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, Bolo is just focused on hiring its first full-time employees, and there are plans to open a beer garden and possibly even add a kitchen soon.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121596\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2994px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4.jpg\" alt=\"Bolo Beer Company head brewer Chris Hernstrom traded the Northwest for the relatively quiet Great Plains for a new challenge.\" width=\"2994\" height=\"1996\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121596\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4.jpg 2994w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-brewery-one_slide-898861b6001a7133eae119eb4aeff80b5a8641e4-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2994px) 100vw, 2994px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bolo Beer Company head brewer Chris Hernstrom traded the Northwest for the relatively quiet Great Plains for a new challenge. \u003ccite>(Kirk Siegler/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chris Hernstrom was brewing in the craft beer mecca of Bend, Ore., when an ad caught his eye: Want to live somewhere gorgeous and make beer for a small community?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It just seemed like an interesting challenge to come out to basically the exact opposite of Bend, some place where the brewing industry is still in its fledgling stages,\" Hernstrom says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That place, Hernstrom's new home, is the cattle ranching hub of Valentine, Neb., population 2,700, tucked into the Niobrara River valley in the Sand Hills.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hernstrom is head brewer at the Bolo Beer Company. On a recent weeknight, he was pouring pints of Aquifer Ale and filling carryout growlers of Wild West Wheat. With its modern pendant lights and bar made of reclaimed wood, the newly opened taproom looks as if it would be more at home in Seattle or Denver than in rural Nebraska.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that is no accident. After Hernstrom was recruited to town, he noticed there were a lot of recently transplanted 20- and 30-somethings — some new to town but many who returned home after being away for college or living in cities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They know what they like about those other places they've lived, and so they're trying to make that happen here in the small towns,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Situated in remote north-central Nebraska along the South Dakota state line, the region has been graying and emptying out for decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in Valentine at least, there are signs this is changing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I feel like I'm in a city,\" says Whitney Mayhew, recalling stepping inside the new brewery for the first time recently.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121595\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41.jpg\" alt=\"More young people are transplanting to small towns, such as Valentine, Neb., population 2,700 and the largest town of its size for at least a two-hour drive in any direction.\" width=\"3000\" height=\"1999\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121595\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41.jpg 3000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-downtown-valentine_slide-49f2206daede6f46c1f33afd0df4116b97d19e41-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3000px) 100vw, 3000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">More young people are transplanting to small towns, such as Valentine, Neb., population 2,700 and the largest town of its size for at least a two-hour drive in any direction. \u003ccite>(Kirk Siegler/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mayhew's husband grew up in Valentine, and the couple decided to relocate from Columbia, S.C., last year to be closer to family. They saw a niche and opened a new boutique clothing store a few blocks away from the Bolo taproom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says the brewery has fast become a community gathering place and supports other new businesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You're definitely seeing a lot of people wanting to find ways that this city can grow and attract more people to come in here who want to enjoy the small, simple life,\" Mayhew says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"simple life\" comes with a few adjustments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I miss my Target,\" Mayhew says, laughing. \"We had Target seven minutes away [in South Carolina].\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's more than a three-hour drive now to the nearest airport. And the closest major city is Denver — six hours. But Mayhew says she doesn't miss the traffic and the crime. People don't lock their doors. Everyone knows everyone here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While it's probably too early to call it a trend, what is happening in Valentine is part of a broader cultural phenomenon in rural America. Young people who grew up in small towns and have been watching them struggle from afar are feeling this calling to come home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take Valentine's own mayor, Kyle Arganbright. The 35-year-old decided to move home a few years ago after graduate school in Lincoln, Neb., and a stint in Washington, D.C. He and a buddy from high school who also recently moved back are two of Bolo's main investors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I just thought there was a lot of opportunity here,\" Arganbright says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121597\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2664px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836.jpg\" alt=\"Valentine's Mayor Kyle Arganbright sees the new brewery as a catalyst to grow other artisanal businesses and the town's tourist economy.\" width=\"2664\" height=\"1998\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121597\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836.jpg 2664w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/siegler-mayor-41d01f39001e9060db33890bc34d0a5c7d83a836-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2664px) 100vw, 2664px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Valentine's Mayor Kyle Arganbright sees the new brewery as a catalyst to grow other artisanal businesses and the town's tourist economy. \u003ccite>(Kirk Siegler/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Valentine was already doing a lot better than a lot of isolated towns its size. It is a hub for the livestock business, shopping and services. It is also a draw for tourists flocking to the scenic Sand Hills for bird-watching, hunting and boating. Unemployment in Cherry County, where Valentine is located, \u003ca href=\"https://data.bls.gov/map/MapToolServlet?survey=la&map=county&seasonal=u\">is 2.3 percent\u003c/a>, lower than the national rate of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2017/10/06/556071100/u-s-jobs-dropped-by-33-000-in-september-likely-due-to-storms\">4.2 percent\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a lot of those are recreation and jobs tend to be seasonal, and many other people in town hold down multiple jobs to get by.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Arganbright, agriculture will always be the anchor in Valentine, but he sees a niche in the country's growing creative and artisan economies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you're not growing, you're dying,\" he says. \"You can't sit there stagnant, particularly when all these urban populations are exploding.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, the idea of a craft brewery as a model for small-town revitalization is being tested across the Midwest, with some early successes: \u003ca href=\"http://www.omaha.com/eedition/sunrise/articles/beer-from-tart-to-finish/article_191c1fe7-ee43-5073-ab5a-481255acc0e6.html\">Carson, Iowa\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.mywebtimes.com/news/local/brewery-boom-starved-rock-country-could-become-the-next-beer/article_29655375-5d46-5130-8e59-1cce124b5afa.html\">Ottawa, Ill.\u003c/a>, to name two examples.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would hate to overpromote this as the panacea for every small town,\" says Chris Merrett, director of the Illinois Institute for Rural Affairs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Merrett says it has potential in places like Valentine that already have natural amenities and attractions around them and don't have to rely on the loyalty of local customers only.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bolo's change hasn't been without its early stumbles. It can be hard to get supplies quickly out here. Business also drops off when the tourists leave. And Hernstrom admits that the idea of a craft brewery is still pretty new, if even strange, to some longtime locals. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're the weird people that ride bicycles around,\" Hernstrom says. \"And we've convinced a lot of people to start riding their bicycles more.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Chris the Brewer,\" as he is known around town, makes good beer, too, and that never hurts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'd love to one day be able to look back on this and map the growth of Valentine,\" Hernstrom says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, Bolo is just focused on hiring its first full-time employees, and there are plans to open a beer garden and possibly even add a kitchen soon.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "One Man's Quest To Feed A Hungry, Isolated California County",
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"content": "\u003cp>Across the United States, more than one out of every 10 people is \"food insecure,\" which means they don't know where their next meal is coming from. In Trinity County, a sparsely populated area in northwestern California, that number is closer to one in five.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jeff England, director of the Trinity County Food Bank, is trying to change that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sun has barely come up in the tiny town of Douglas City, Calif. England and two other men are almost done packing a couple of trucks with food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're loaded to the gills,\" he says, pointing to produce like cabbage, white onions and sweet potatoes, along with packaged and canned foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I hop into the cab of the 20-year-old truck with a rattling refrigeration unit, joining England as he begins his monthly food delivery run to the county's hungriest and most isolated residents. He'll drive 230 miles today, 650 by the end of the week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I make my trip, because of all the twisty, turny roads, I kinda have to take it a little bit easy,\" he says. Too sharp a turn can upend the pallets of food he's carefully packed for today's 10 1/2 hour drive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We pass vehicles that have fallen off the side of the road, abandoned. All around us are thickly-forested mountains, one jagged ridge after another.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If it was just flattened out completely, with the mountains and everything else, it would be the size of Texas,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\"You just go without\"\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Solid Rock Church in the town of Hayfork, Calif., more than 50 people line up for food which England cobbles together from a spider's web of local, state and federal programs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Teresia Kirkland is volunteering at this event, but she also collects free food, which she often combines in casseroles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Without the food bank you just go without,\" she says. \"I'm on social security, and after you pay all your bills, if you have an emergency — if you have a flat tire or anything that needs to be taken care of — you need to wait till the next month.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That makes for a long month. A long, long month,\" chimes in Glenda Raines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both women say they used to supplement their budgets by taking items to a recycling center in town, but that's closed now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raines says that until recently, she and her husband were homeless, camping out by the creek. \"A friend let us stay in a garage made into a little cabin. I don't know how long that's going to last. I'm still considered homeless.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raines says she prepares the food she receives on a little propane stove. Her husband, Gary, says he's frustrated that there isn't more senior housing, and that a glut of marijuana growers coming into Hayfork are jacking up rents. He says he worked in the sawmill for 17 years when it was still open. When he broke his back, he retired. Now he gets just over $800 a month in social security.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Last month I got a $180 ticket for being homeless in the National Forest. I didn't even know that was the law,\" he says, with a slightly bitter laugh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lack of farmland\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the obvious financial struggles of many Trinity County's residents, more than 10 California counties actually have higher poverty rates. But Trinity is one of the state's most food-insecure places. To find out why, I head to what looks like the center of food abundance in Trinity County: the farmers market in Weaverville.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sue Corrigan — who founded the market over 20 years ago — is shopping for zucchini, tomatilloes for salsa, and onions for her husband to make onion rings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121177\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/img_7502-55673d46932d2d6dcbf0b84f10e65c04e25dcf71-e1507056524521.jpg\" alt=\"Sue Corrigan manages the farmers market in Weaverville, Calif., where only one Trinity County man is among the farmers selling produce and prepared foods.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121177\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sue Corrigan manages the farmers market in Weaverville, Calif., where only one Trinity County man is among the farmers selling produce and prepared foods. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As she points to one vendor, Corrigan says something surprising: \"This next farmer is our only farmer in the Weaverville area.\" That farmer is the only local of about 10 who are selling produce here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Corrigan, whose family had farmland here starting in the 1830s, says that years ago, much of the potential land was taken out of commission. In the 1950s, \"The government was taking our land,\" she says, to build the Trinity Dam, which sends water to Central and Southern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One of our last areas that was open enough to do farming, and they buried it with a lake,\" she says, wistfully.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's all about priorities, Corrigan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've had three different rushes: First the gold rush, second the timber rush, and now the marijuana rush, which is called the green rush. The focus has been on other industries and not a food-sustainable industry.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>An isolated county\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One more explanation for Trinity's food insecurity? Isolation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>England maneuvers around potholes to get to the most remote drop-off point today. He says that last winter, he defied state highway workers and drove over a closed, snow-covered road to deliver food to people who'd been stuck for months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I said, 'I have to go.' I slipped, lost traction, gained traction,\" he remembers. \"I just knew they needed the food so I decided to take the chance and I made it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That takes a lot of guts,\" says Lauren Turner. She's come to the food drop-off at the volunteer fire department in the tiny town of Zenia.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Coming up the back of the mountain, they call it Refrigerator Alley for a reason,\" she says. \"It gets pretty slick. So, we're grateful. It's not easy up here.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>As for grocery shopping?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Usually it's 100 miles in any direction from here to a large town,\" says Turner. That's more than a two-hour drive, which she makes only once a month. In between, she relies on the Food Bank delivery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We keep the canned good for times when we can't get off the hill, and the fresh food, I get imaginative,\" she says. \"I like to take the veggies and cook them in fruit juice and then I like to put fish on top of them the last 15-20 minutes. Sometime we get frozen fish, so I make a lot of one-pot meals.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>England says he and his team have more than doubled the amount of food they're bringing into Trinity County in the last year. The Food Bank and \u003ca href=\"https://www.trinitycountyfoodbank.com/\">Trinity County Food Assistance\u003c/a> deliver one bag or box of food to 2,500 households each month. That's 20 percent of the county.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>England says the community here is incredibly supportive, but some people have complained that the food bank just enables drug-addicted or homeless people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We don't judge people, and those druggies have kids. The kids might not get food normally,\" England says, but if the food bank provides, then they do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I mean, if you're hungry, you're hungry. I don't care who you are. You're black, white, Indian, Mexican, fat, skinny, or from out of the county. If you're hungry, you're hungry.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's an attitude that comes from personal experience. England says he's been out of work before. \"And I've struggled in the past, a long time ago, with some addiction problems. It just felt so good to be able to go to a place when you're hungry.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He remembers that first meal in a soup kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was in a church. It was spaghetti, garlic bread and a salad,\" and they sent him and others home with cans of soup and chili.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of people don't know what it is to be hungry,\" he explains. \"It's a horrible feeling. You're weak. You can't do anything. You don't have any ambitions. I'm so happy to be able to turn the table,\" he says, and help the people whose shoes he's been in before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This piece was produced in collaboration with the\u003ca href=\"http://thefern.org/\"> Food & Environment Reporting Network\u003c/a>, a non-profit, investigative news organization. Ariel Plotnick helped with research and reporting for this piece. A broadcast version of this story aired on NPR's Here & Now.\u003cbr>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The harsh terrain lacks farmland. And the nearest large grocery store is 100 miles away with sometimes no way to get there. So more residents have come to rely on Jeff England's food bank delivery.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Across the United States, more than one out of every 10 people is \"food insecure,\" which means they don't know where their next meal is coming from. In Trinity County, a sparsely populated area in northwestern California, that number is closer to one in five.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jeff England, director of the Trinity County Food Bank, is trying to change that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sun has barely come up in the tiny town of Douglas City, Calif. England and two other men are almost done packing a couple of trucks with food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're loaded to the gills,\" he says, pointing to produce like cabbage, white onions and sweet potatoes, along with packaged and canned foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I hop into the cab of the 20-year-old truck with a rattling refrigeration unit, joining England as he begins his monthly food delivery run to the county's hungriest and most isolated residents. He'll drive 230 miles today, 650 by the end of the week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I make my trip, because of all the twisty, turny roads, I kinda have to take it a little bit easy,\" he says. Too sharp a turn can upend the pallets of food he's carefully packed for today's 10 1/2 hour drive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We pass vehicles that have fallen off the side of the road, abandoned. All around us are thickly-forested mountains, one jagged ridge after another.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If it was just flattened out completely, with the mountains and everything else, it would be the size of Texas,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\"You just go without\"\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Solid Rock Church in the town of Hayfork, Calif., more than 50 people line up for food which England cobbles together from a spider's web of local, state and federal programs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Teresia Kirkland is volunteering at this event, but she also collects free food, which she often combines in casseroles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Without the food bank you just go without,\" she says. \"I'm on social security, and after you pay all your bills, if you have an emergency — if you have a flat tire or anything that needs to be taken care of — you need to wait till the next month.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That makes for a long month. A long, long month,\" chimes in Glenda Raines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both women say they used to supplement their budgets by taking items to a recycling center in town, but that's closed now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raines says that until recently, she and her husband were homeless, camping out by the creek. \"A friend let us stay in a garage made into a little cabin. I don't know how long that's going to last. I'm still considered homeless.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raines says she prepares the food she receives on a little propane stove. Her husband, Gary, says he's frustrated that there isn't more senior housing, and that a glut of marijuana growers coming into Hayfork are jacking up rents. He says he worked in the sawmill for 17 years when it was still open. When he broke his back, he retired. Now he gets just over $800 a month in social security.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Last month I got a $180 ticket for being homeless in the National Forest. I didn't even know that was the law,\" he says, with a slightly bitter laugh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lack of farmland\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the obvious financial struggles of many Trinity County's residents, more than 10 California counties actually have higher poverty rates. But Trinity is one of the state's most food-insecure places. To find out why, I head to what looks like the center of food abundance in Trinity County: the farmers market in Weaverville.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sue Corrigan — who founded the market over 20 years ago — is shopping for zucchini, tomatilloes for salsa, and onions for her husband to make onion rings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121177\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/img_7502-55673d46932d2d6dcbf0b84f10e65c04e25dcf71-e1507056524521.jpg\" alt=\"Sue Corrigan manages the farmers market in Weaverville, Calif., where only one Trinity County man is among the farmers selling produce and prepared foods.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121177\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sue Corrigan manages the farmers market in Weaverville, Calif., where only one Trinity County man is among the farmers selling produce and prepared foods. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As she points to one vendor, Corrigan says something surprising: \"This next farmer is our only farmer in the Weaverville area.\" That farmer is the only local of about 10 who are selling produce here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Corrigan, whose family had farmland here starting in the 1830s, says that years ago, much of the potential land was taken out of commission. In the 1950s, \"The government was taking our land,\" she says, to build the Trinity Dam, which sends water to Central and Southern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One of our last areas that was open enough to do farming, and they buried it with a lake,\" she says, wistfully.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's all about priorities, Corrigan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've had three different rushes: First the gold rush, second the timber rush, and now the marijuana rush, which is called the green rush. The focus has been on other industries and not a food-sustainable industry.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>An isolated county\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One more explanation for Trinity's food insecurity? Isolation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>England maneuvers around potholes to get to the most remote drop-off point today. He says that last winter, he defied state highway workers and drove over a closed, snow-covered road to deliver food to people who'd been stuck for months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I said, 'I have to go.' I slipped, lost traction, gained traction,\" he remembers. \"I just knew they needed the food so I decided to take the chance and I made it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That takes a lot of guts,\" says Lauren Turner. She's come to the food drop-off at the volunteer fire department in the tiny town of Zenia.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Coming up the back of the mountain, they call it Refrigerator Alley for a reason,\" she says. \"It gets pretty slick. So, we're grateful. It's not easy up here.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>As for grocery shopping?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Usually it's 100 miles in any direction from here to a large town,\" says Turner. That's more than a two-hour drive, which she makes only once a month. In between, she relies on the Food Bank delivery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We keep the canned good for times when we can't get off the hill, and the fresh food, I get imaginative,\" she says. \"I like to take the veggies and cook them in fruit juice and then I like to put fish on top of them the last 15-20 minutes. Sometime we get frozen fish, so I make a lot of one-pot meals.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>England says he and his team have more than doubled the amount of food they're bringing into Trinity County in the last year. The Food Bank and \u003ca href=\"https://www.trinitycountyfoodbank.com/\">Trinity County Food Assistance\u003c/a> deliver one bag or box of food to 2,500 households each month. That's 20 percent of the county.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>England says the community here is incredibly supportive, but some people have complained that the food bank just enables drug-addicted or homeless people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We don't judge people, and those druggies have kids. The kids might not get food normally,\" England says, but if the food bank provides, then they do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I mean, if you're hungry, you're hungry. I don't care who you are. You're black, white, Indian, Mexican, fat, skinny, or from out of the county. If you're hungry, you're hungry.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's an attitude that comes from personal experience. England says he's been out of work before. \"And I've struggled in the past, a long time ago, with some addiction problems. It just felt so good to be able to go to a place when you're hungry.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He remembers that first meal in a soup kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was in a church. It was spaghetti, garlic bread and a salad,\" and they sent him and others home with cans of soup and chili.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of people don't know what it is to be hungry,\" he explains. \"It's a horrible feeling. You're weak. You can't do anything. You don't have any ambitions. I'm so happy to be able to turn the table,\" he says, and help the people whose shoes he's been in before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This piece was produced in collaboration with the\u003ca href=\"http://thefern.org/\"> Food & Environment Reporting Network\u003c/a>, a non-profit, investigative news organization. Ariel Plotnick helped with research and reporting for this piece. A broadcast version of this story aired on NPR's Here & Now.\u003cbr>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Discount Grocers Aldi And Lidl Give U.S. Stores A Run For Their Money",
"title": "Discount Grocers Aldi And Lidl Give U.S. Stores A Run For Their Money",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"https://www.npr.org/player/embed/552384150/554057416\" width=\"100%\" height=\"290\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" title=\"NPR embedded audio player\">\u003c/iframe>\u003cbr>\nIt's 6:30 a.m. on a Thursday in September, about an hour until the grand opening of a Lidl grocery store in Manassas, Va. A small line is queued along a squat building — at first glance, maybe a car dealership, if it were designed by Ikea. A few people at the front of the line shake their heads when asked whether they'd heard of a Lidl — pronounced\"Lee-dle\" — before this one arrived. It's the German newcomer's 30th U.S. location.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rose and Roy Spilman camped overnight to be the first customers. Or, rather, Rose sat in line while Roy slept in the car — this is very much Rose's thing. \"She's professional,\" says third-in-line Melissa Johnson. \"Her Krispy Kreme story is epic.\" Last year, Rose spent three days staking out a spot to win a free year's supply of doughnuts for her children and grandchildren.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Johnson and Spilman had met before; naturally, in another line to another grocery store: It was the grand re-opening of a local Aldi, Lidl's compatriot and main rival, and the two women's favorite place to shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aldi and Lidl, in industry speak, are called deep discounters. They offer a limited assortment at very low prices — think large eggs on sale for 49 cents a dozen — keeping costs down with a mix of tactics for efficiency. If the U.S. grocery industry is in the middle of a price war, Aldi and Lidl are at the frontline.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Growing footprint\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Competition has been intense among U.S. grocers. Companies are trying to figure out the role of technology in our shopping habits, and Amazon is ever the elephant in the room, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2017/08/25/546130559/whole-foods-will-drop-prices-on-monday-amazon-says-detailing-new-grocery-strateg\">now in possession\u003c/a> of Whole Foods. And the pressure to compete on price is always there. In fact, prices have been falling quite a bit. Analysts often cite two major factors: A long period of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/09/06/547820236/grocery-prices-have-been-falling-did-you-notice\">food deflation\u003c/a>, and stepped-up competition from Aldi and Lidl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121089\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-1-71d22fa867957511fded2c216be882e1c8da0a7a-e1506537043838.jpg\" alt=\"Roy and Rose Spilman camped overnight to be the first customers at a new Lidl store in Manassas, Va.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121089\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roy and Rose Spilman camped overnight to be the first customers at a new Lidl store in Manassas, Va. \u003ccite>(Alina Selyukh/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Aldi is an old-timer that's been in the U.S. since the 1970s, approaching 1,700 stores. The company \u003ca href=\"https://www.reuters.com/article/us-usa-retail-aldi/aldi-fires-3-4-billion-shot-in-u-s-supermarket-wars-idUSKBN193044\">has now pledged\u003c/a> $5 billion to renovate existing stores and grow to a total of 2,500 locations by 2022 — which would make it second only to Walmart and Kroger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lidl began spreading along the East Coast \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnbc.com/2017/06/26/lidls-next-us-grocery-stores-will-open-in-virginia-and-north-carolina.html\">in June\u003c/a>, reached 30 storefronts in mid-September. It aims for a total of 100 by the mid-2018 — presumably expanding further, if at a slower pace, after that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both stores are known particularly for private-brand, or store-label, products. Jim Hertel, senior vice president at food retail consultancy Inmar Willard Bishop Analytics, says that allows these grocers to offer customers savings of about 35-40 percent compared with other supermarkets. A limited stock goes into these discount stores, which are very compact and value efficiency above frills.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some industry watchers \u003ca href=\"https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2017-06-12/european-grocery-rivalry-expands-to-u-s-as-aldi-lidl-bulk-up\">predict that\u003c/a> over the next few years, the deep-discount grocery business will grow five times faster than traditional stores — in part because Americans are becoming more comfortable with private-brand groceries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We have been involved in being a low-price leader since day one,\" says Scott Patton, vice president of corporate buying at Aldi. \"Because of the way we structure our business ... we are comfortable that we will come out as a leader in the price war. The market will ultimately decide how long it can go\" down in price.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121090\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-8_slide-473e17e63d9712913bd780216f67fa61c1bcd191-e1506537094604.jpg\" alt=\"Aldi, which has been in the U.S. since the 1970s, has been updating its look and product selection, adding more fresh produce, among other things.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121090\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aldi, which has been in the U.S. since the 1970s, has been updating its look and product selection, adding more fresh produce, among other things. \u003ccite>(Alina Selyukh/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pursuit of efficiency\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside the brand-new Lidl in Virginia, Roy and Rose Spilman slowly fill up their cart: several fresh pineapples at 89-cents a pop, high-pulp orange juice for less than $2. Roy offers up some strawberries for $1.89, but Rose is eagle-eyed: \"Aldi's was $1.77.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She picks up an unexpected find: a cheap stepping stool from the \"Lidl Surprises\" section. \"It was something I was going to build for her, but haven't gotten \u003cem>around \u003c/em>to it,\" Roy says, with a sly thumbs-up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Johnson emerges at the checkout with an almost-empty cart. She says she enjoyed being in the Lidl — \"Aldi is a bit more factory-esque\" — but she wasn't fully sold on the price comparison to her favorite store. More importantly, she's got a houseful of kids for whom the Lidl brand is untested. \"I'll be back, though,\" she says. \"I'll bring my crew — I'll let them decide.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both German chains feature compact stores — Aldis, for example, are around 12,000 square feet on average — staffed by a few employees at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Typically, in a grocery store you'd often find 25, 26, 27 aisles. In Lidl, what we do here is just six aisles,\" says Lidl spokesman Will Harwood, walking past the fruit and vegetables toward meats, cheeses and dairy. \"By the time a customer reaches the end of the first aisle, they're going to typically be able to do about 80 percent of their shop.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This design is one of many tactics that keep the store efficient and prices down. Both Aldi and Lidl also display items straight in their pallets or boxes, saving employees the time that would go into unpacking and constantly reshuffling individual items on shelves. Getting a shopping cart at Aldi requires a 25-cent deposit, to be reclaimed when the cart is returned. This spares the store's workers the effort of chasing down strays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The appeal of limited selection\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the key factor that lets Aldi and Lidl cut costs is a limited assortment. Where a big supermarket would offer a dozen or more options of, say, pickles, Aldi or Lidl might have one or two varieties, only in the most popular size — but those would turn over in massive quantities. And this huge sales volume of one thing allows the stores to negotiate a good deal with the supplier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121091\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2810px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a.jpg\" alt=\"Eggs for sale for 49 cents a dozen at the new Lidl store in Manassas, Va. A newcomer to the U.S., Lidl uses a mix of cost-cutting tactics to keep prices low.\" width=\"2810\" height=\"2105\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121091\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a.jpg 2810w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a-800x599.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a-768x575.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a-1020x764.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a-960x719.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2810px) 100vw, 2810px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eggs for sale for 49 cents a dozen at the new Lidl store in Manassas, Va. A newcomer to the U.S., Lidl uses a mix of cost-cutting tactics to keep prices low. \u003ccite>(Alina Selyukh/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"I think right now, the key for us is, consumers are appreciating more and more private-label,\" says Aldi's Patton. \"They're absolutely recognizing they can get great quality product at a great price.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, with prices so low, some consumers are bound to be suspicious about the quality of food for sale. Both German chains are working to win over shoppers by expanding their selection of items like fresh produce, black angus beef, and organic choices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hertel says there's a common misconception that Aldi stores are geared toward low-income shoppers on very limited food budgets. \"It's really a combination,\" he says. \"Certainly, the extreme-value does ... appeal to the lower end of the economic scale, but actually the bulk of their sales come from mid- to maybe just above middle-class households.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Aldi's Patton points out that his stores are in all types of markets, urban and suburban.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>NPR Business Desk intern Yu-Ning Aileen Chuang contributed to this report.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"https://www.npr.org/player/embed/552384150/554057416\" width=\"100%\" height=\"290\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" title=\"NPR embedded audio player\">\u003c/iframe>\u003cbr>\nIt's 6:30 a.m. on a Thursday in September, about an hour until the grand opening of a Lidl grocery store in Manassas, Va. A small line is queued along a squat building — at first glance, maybe a car dealership, if it were designed by Ikea. A few people at the front of the line shake their heads when asked whether they'd heard of a Lidl — pronounced\"Lee-dle\" — before this one arrived. It's the German newcomer's 30th U.S. location.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rose and Roy Spilman camped overnight to be the first customers. Or, rather, Rose sat in line while Roy slept in the car — this is very much Rose's thing. \"She's professional,\" says third-in-line Melissa Johnson. \"Her Krispy Kreme story is epic.\" Last year, Rose spent three days staking out a spot to win a free year's supply of doughnuts for her children and grandchildren.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Johnson and Spilman had met before; naturally, in another line to another grocery store: It was the grand re-opening of a local Aldi, Lidl's compatriot and main rival, and the two women's favorite place to shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aldi and Lidl, in industry speak, are called deep discounters. They offer a limited assortment at very low prices — think large eggs on sale for 49 cents a dozen — keeping costs down with a mix of tactics for efficiency. If the U.S. grocery industry is in the middle of a price war, Aldi and Lidl are at the frontline.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Growing footprint\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Competition has been intense among U.S. grocers. Companies are trying to figure out the role of technology in our shopping habits, and Amazon is ever the elephant in the room, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2017/08/25/546130559/whole-foods-will-drop-prices-on-monday-amazon-says-detailing-new-grocery-strateg\">now in possession\u003c/a> of Whole Foods. And the pressure to compete on price is always there. In fact, prices have been falling quite a bit. Analysts often cite two major factors: A long period of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/09/06/547820236/grocery-prices-have-been-falling-did-you-notice\">food deflation\u003c/a>, and stepped-up competition from Aldi and Lidl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121089\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-1-71d22fa867957511fded2c216be882e1c8da0a7a-e1506537043838.jpg\" alt=\"Roy and Rose Spilman camped overnight to be the first customers at a new Lidl store in Manassas, Va.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121089\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roy and Rose Spilman camped overnight to be the first customers at a new Lidl store in Manassas, Va. \u003ccite>(Alina Selyukh/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Aldi is an old-timer that's been in the U.S. since the 1970s, approaching 1,700 stores. The company \u003ca href=\"https://www.reuters.com/article/us-usa-retail-aldi/aldi-fires-3-4-billion-shot-in-u-s-supermarket-wars-idUSKBN193044\">has now pledged\u003c/a> $5 billion to renovate existing stores and grow to a total of 2,500 locations by 2022 — which would make it second only to Walmart and Kroger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lidl began spreading along the East Coast \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnbc.com/2017/06/26/lidls-next-us-grocery-stores-will-open-in-virginia-and-north-carolina.html\">in June\u003c/a>, reached 30 storefronts in mid-September. It aims for a total of 100 by the mid-2018 — presumably expanding further, if at a slower pace, after that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both stores are known particularly for private-brand, or store-label, products. Jim Hertel, senior vice president at food retail consultancy Inmar Willard Bishop Analytics, says that allows these grocers to offer customers savings of about 35-40 percent compared with other supermarkets. A limited stock goes into these discount stores, which are very compact and value efficiency above frills.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some industry watchers \u003ca href=\"https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2017-06-12/european-grocery-rivalry-expands-to-u-s-as-aldi-lidl-bulk-up\">predict that\u003c/a> over the next few years, the deep-discount grocery business will grow five times faster than traditional stores — in part because Americans are becoming more comfortable with private-brand groceries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We have been involved in being a low-price leader since day one,\" says Scott Patton, vice president of corporate buying at Aldi. \"Because of the way we structure our business ... we are comfortable that we will come out as a leader in the price war. The market will ultimately decide how long it can go\" down in price.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121090\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-8_slide-473e17e63d9712913bd780216f67fa61c1bcd191-e1506537094604.jpg\" alt=\"Aldi, which has been in the U.S. since the 1970s, has been updating its look and product selection, adding more fresh produce, among other things.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121090\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aldi, which has been in the U.S. since the 1970s, has been updating its look and product selection, adding more fresh produce, among other things. \u003ccite>(Alina Selyukh/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pursuit of efficiency\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside the brand-new Lidl in Virginia, Roy and Rose Spilman slowly fill up their cart: several fresh pineapples at 89-cents a pop, high-pulp orange juice for less than $2. Roy offers up some strawberries for $1.89, but Rose is eagle-eyed: \"Aldi's was $1.77.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She picks up an unexpected find: a cheap stepping stool from the \"Lidl Surprises\" section. \"It was something I was going to build for her, but haven't gotten \u003cem>around \u003c/em>to it,\" Roy says, with a sly thumbs-up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Johnson emerges at the checkout with an almost-empty cart. She says she enjoyed being in the Lidl — \"Aldi is a bit more factory-esque\" — but she wasn't fully sold on the price comparison to her favorite store. More importantly, she's got a houseful of kids for whom the Lidl brand is untested. \"I'll be back, though,\" she says. \"I'll bring my crew — I'll let them decide.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both German chains feature compact stores — Aldis, for example, are around 12,000 square feet on average — staffed by a few employees at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Typically, in a grocery store you'd often find 25, 26, 27 aisles. In Lidl, what we do here is just six aisles,\" says Lidl spokesman Will Harwood, walking past the fruit and vegetables toward meats, cheeses and dairy. \"By the time a customer reaches the end of the first aisle, they're going to typically be able to do about 80 percent of their shop.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This design is one of many tactics that keep the store efficient and prices down. Both Aldi and Lidl also display items straight in their pallets or boxes, saving employees the time that would go into unpacking and constantly reshuffling individual items on shelves. Getting a shopping cart at Aldi requires a 25-cent deposit, to be reclaimed when the cart is returned. This spares the store's workers the effort of chasing down strays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The appeal of limited selection\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the key factor that lets Aldi and Lidl cut costs is a limited assortment. Where a big supermarket would offer a dozen or more options of, say, pickles, Aldi or Lidl might have one or two varieties, only in the most popular size — but those would turn over in massive quantities. And this huge sales volume of one thing allows the stores to negotiate a good deal with the supplier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121091\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2810px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a.jpg\" alt=\"Eggs for sale for 49 cents a dozen at the new Lidl store in Manassas, Va. A newcomer to the U.S., Lidl uses a mix of cost-cutting tactics to keep prices low.\" width=\"2810\" height=\"2105\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121091\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a.jpg 2810w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a-800x599.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a-768x575.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a-1020x764.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a-960x719.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/2017-09-16_supermarkets_prices-5-3985aaff1f4991ac747d46451beed36fae72732a-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2810px) 100vw, 2810px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eggs for sale for 49 cents a dozen at the new Lidl store in Manassas, Va. A newcomer to the U.S., Lidl uses a mix of cost-cutting tactics to keep prices low. \u003ccite>(Alina Selyukh/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"I think right now, the key for us is, consumers are appreciating more and more private-label,\" says Aldi's Patton. \"They're absolutely recognizing they can get great quality product at a great price.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, with prices so low, some consumers are bound to be suspicious about the quality of food for sale. Both German chains are working to win over shoppers by expanding their selection of items like fresh produce, black angus beef, and organic choices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hertel says there's a common misconception that Aldi stores are geared toward low-income shoppers on very limited food budgets. \"It's really a combination,\" he says. \"Certainly, the extreme-value does ... appeal to the lower end of the economic scale, but actually the bulk of their sales come from mid- to maybe just above middle-class households.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Aldi's Patton points out that his stores are in all types of markets, urban and suburban.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>NPR Business Desk intern Yu-Ning Aileen Chuang contributed to this report.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Master Chef George Chen Opens Eight Tables, China Live’s Crown Jewel",
"title": "Master Chef George Chen Opens Eight Tables, China Live’s Crown Jewel",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Eight Tables video by Vic Chin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>An elaborate 10-course tasting menu invites diners into the world of shi fan tsai, private chateau-style dining.\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinese cuisine is known for elaborate banquet spreads, and private dining is the elite flipside of the social hierarchy. Banquets tend to feature an array of different foods, often heavy, concluding with lots of rice, noodles and other starches in case you didn’t get your fill from proteins and other more expensive foods. \u003cem>Shi fan tsai\u003c/em>, on the other hand, is what you might be offered at the home of a wealthy family with a private chef: many small courses, plated individually, coursed out over a leisurely evening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120956\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120956\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new.jpg\" alt=\"Table setting at Eight Tables\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Table setting at Eight Tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The entrance to \u003ca href=\"http://chinalivesf.com/fine-dining-in-san-francisco/\">Eight Tables\u003c/a> is on Kenneth Rexroth Lane in San Francisco’s Chinatown, an alley in back of a wrought-iron gate. After fighting for parking, we were greeted at the gate by two young women in black dresses. I looked to my left, and the woman asked, “May I see your prescription?” I looked to my right, and the other woman said, “Are you here to visit Eight Tables?” Relief.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120938\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120938\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new.jpg\" alt=\"Entrance to Eight Tables\" width=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Entrance to Eight Tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>An elevator ride to the second floor delivers us to another world, one of timeless, restrained decadence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121024\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121024\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new.jpg\" alt=\"An elevator takes you upstairs to the dining area\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An elevator takes you upstairs to the dining area \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Executive Chef George Chen\u003c/strong> is well known for his legendary Betelnut restaurant in the Marina District, which closed in 2015 after a 20-year run, as well as the upscale Shanghai 1930 in the Financial District, which closed in 2010, and several other San Francisco and Shanghai restaurants. \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/03/18/china-lives-lunch-is-the-new-sf-power-lunch/\">China Live\u003c/a> is Chen’s 20,000-square-foot Chinese food emporium, along the lines of Eataly in New York (and now Chicago and Boston). Other players on this star-studded team include two Saison alums, \u003cstrong>Andrew Fuentes\u003c/strong> at the front of the house and mixologist \u003cstrong>Andrew Keels\u003c/strong> behind the bar. \u003cstrong>Tony Kim\u003c/strong>, most recently of the Redwood Room at The Clift Hotel, leads the wine program. \u003cstrong>Luis Villavelazquez\u003c/strong>, formerly of Absinthe, is the mastermind of the elaborate dessert creations to come.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120965\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120965\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef George Chen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1672\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-160x139.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-800x697.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-768x669.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-1020x888.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-1180x1028.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-960x836.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-240x209.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-375x327.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-520x453.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef George Chen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The luxurious Eight Tables space, on the second floor of China Live, all cream and golden in hue, was designed by \u003ca href=\"http://www.avroko.com/\">AvroKO\u003c/a>, which won a 2017 James Beard Award for \u003ca href=\"https://www.singlethreadfarms.com/\">Single Thread\u003c/a> in Healdsburg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the reception lounge, we were offered warm towels as we took off our coats. Behind us hung a large-format, crisply focused photo of Chen and his parents, the kind of photograph you might see in the private home of a family of means in China.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121097\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reception area with photo of George Chen and his parents.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121097\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reception area with photo of George Chen and his parents. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cul>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"120948,120949,120951,120952,120947,120954\"]\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>As we were escorted to our seats, we paused at the bar to ooh and aah at the mobile cart where Keels stands at the ready to dispense a cocktail. We had decided to do the wine pairings instead, designed by sommelier Kim to highlight the range of possibilities for pairing wine with classic Chinese flavors, a practice that isn’t terribly common.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120955\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120955\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cocktail utensils atop rabbit fur at the mobile bar.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cocktail utensils atop rabbit fur at the mobile bar. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One stunning detail is the textured walls. Chef Chen explains that the process involved using antique fabric from Chinese wedding dresses, pressed into wet plaster, and allowed to partially dry—enough to leave the pattern behind, while not tearing the material.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120962\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120962\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new.jpg\" alt=\"Textured walls were made using fabric from antique Chinese wedding dresses.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Textured walls were made using fabric from antique Chinese wedding dresses. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are eight tables in the graciously appointed room, a number considered to be the luckiest in Chinese culture. Servers in fawn-colored suits appear and disappear in choreographed, ballet-like motion throughout the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121021\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121021\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new.jpg\" alt=\"One of the eight tables\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the eight tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120990\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120990\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new.jpg\" alt=\"Courses are presented in a choreographed manner. Mixologist Andrew Keels (L) and general manager Andrew Fuentes (R) participated in serving the meal.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Courses are presented in a choreographed manner. Mixologist Andrew Keels (L) and general manager Andrew Fuentes (R) participated in serving the meal. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chen’s cooking, further developed and executed by \u003cstrong>Chef de Cuisine Robin Lin\u003c/strong>, translates this luxury to gathering at table for a lyrical and carefully crafted meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Jiu gong ge\u003c/em>, or nine essential flavors, is the name of the first course, and from a sensory perspective, it’s a microcosm of the other nine courses to follow, as it represents the full spectrum of possible flavors: sweet, salty, sour, bitter, numbing, spicy, nutty, sharp, and smoky. Each elegant bite is plated on dishes made for just the occasion and arranged in a complex numerology that forms a \u003cem>lo shu\u003c/em> grid, which adds up to 15 vertically, horizontally and diagonally, considered very lucky, even magical.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120935\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120935\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new.jpg\" alt=\"Jiu Gong Ge - Nine Essential Flavors\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jiu Gong Ge - Nine Essential Flavors \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You will have your favorite of the bites, as well as a logic for proceeding through them. The four people at our table all chose different paths through the maze. One preferred to save the sweet jujube stuffed with glutinous rice and chickpea hearts for the last bite, while another preferred to end with a local anchovy wok-smoked with black sugar and tea. We all placed the \u003cem>ma\u003c/em> (numbing) and \u003cem>la\u003c/em> (spicy), often combined, but distinct dishes here, in the middle of the experience. Each dish represented its category precisely and creatively. My own favorites were the “sharp” clam marinated in soy sauce with ginger and scallions and the gelatin of pork shank with (sour) vinegar and thin slices of ginger. The strangest and most interesting was a little (nutty) roulade of nori and yuba (tofu noodles). A tiny stack of bitter melon slices was bracing, as intended.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"120971,120972,120973,120974,120975,120976,120979,120978,120977\"]\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>The wine selected for pairing with this course was the sparkling \u003ca href=\"https://www.kermitlynch.com/our-wines/champagne-j-lassalle/\">Cuvée Angeline Brut Champagne\u003c/a> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.champagne-jlassalle.com/en/\">J. Lassalle\u003c/a>, whose crisp brightness stands up to the intense flavors and whose sweetness gives ballast to the spicier end of things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120961\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120961\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sommelier Tony Kim pours Cuvée Angeline Brut Champagne from J. Lassalle\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sommelier Tony Kim pours Cuvée Angeline Brut Champagne from J. Lassalle \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the unanimous favorite dish of the night, course number two was a four-pronged shrimp dumpling topped with Osetra caviar, trout roe, sour cream topped with finger lime, and scallions, all in their respective quadrants and surrounded by micro-greens and Santa Barbara sea urchin on the plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120983\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120983\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Four Seas Dumpling - Russian Golden Osetra, Sea Urchin, Heirloom Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Four Seas Dumpling - Russian Golden Osetra, Sea Urchin, Heirloom Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A brilliant wine pairing was the unusual \u003ca href=\"https://www.winex.com/product/33091/Valdespino_Palomino_Fino_Ojo_de_Gallo_2016.html\">Palomino Fino from Valdespino\u003c/a>, essentially unfortified sherry. It’s dry, but with a glimmer of sherry-toned fruit sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barbecue “Shao Kao” features Kaluga caviar farmed in China! Though most diners might not have heard of it, this sturgeon caviar is being served by Lufthansa in its first-class cabins and has been vetted for sustainability and cleanliness (as China isn’t always known for environmental practices). Iberico pork (rather than the ham most of us are familiar with) is served chashu style alongside crispy duck skin and amazing little pearls of apple caviar made by Chen’s wife, Cindy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120942\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120942\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new.jpg\" alt=\"Barbecue “Shao Kao” - Kaluga on Peking Duck Skin, Iberico Char Siu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Barbecue “Shao Kao” - Kaluga on Peking Duck Skin, Iberico Char Siu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120988\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120988\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new.jpg\" alt=\"Mini pork sandwich\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mini pork sandwich \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The wine course here was a dry \u003ca href=\"http://www.cavicchioli.it/ing/vini.php?mcat=53&cat=63&id=279\">Lambrusco\u003c/a>, the sparkling Italian red wine that has reclaimed its rightful place at the table over the last decade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After much intensity on the palate, a gentler course comes next: gulf prawn consommé with glass noodles, a prawn ball and single peppery nasturtium leaf, paired with a Chardonnay from Santa Maria Valley (\u003ca href=\"http://www.nielsonwines.com/buy.asp\">Nielson by Byron\u003c/a>), buttery to the consommé’s salty sweetness. A whole fried shrimp wrapped in sea grass comes on the side; I could’ve eaten a bowl of just these.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120991\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120991\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new.jpg\" alt=\"Gulf Prawn Consommé - Glass Noodles, Prawn Ball, Nasturtium\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gulf Prawn Consommé - Glass Noodles, Prawn Ball, Nasturtium \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120992\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120992\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fried shrimp wrapped in sea grass.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fried shrimp wrapped in sea grass. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The other contender for my personal favorite dish was a Norwegian cod steamed in banana leaf with pickled white melon and bamboo “cannelloni” tucked inside, a slice of earthy-crisp lotus root on the bottom. The Champagne comes back out for this course—something I adore about this restaurant, sommelier Kim’s willingness to move in non-linear ways throughout the pairings—\u003ca href=\"http://www.champagne-gosset.com/eng\">a Gosset Brut\u003c/a>, classic non-vintage bubbly with notes of Fall fruits and tropical florals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120995\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120995\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new.jpg\" alt=\"Black Cod Wrapped in Banana Leaf - Picked White Melon, Bamboo 'Cannelloni'\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Black Cod Wrapped in Banana Leaf - Picked White Melon, Bamboo 'Cannelloni' \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Velvet chicken, the next course, is surely unlike any version you’ve ever tried, made here with early-season truffles from Burgundy and matsutake mushrooms with veal \u003cem>jus\u003c/em>. We dip into red wine with a \u003ca href=\"http://m.henryfessy.com/en/wine/fleurie-2010.php\">Fleurie Crus Beaujolais by Henry Fessy\u003c/a>, fruit-forward and high-toned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It comes with a handmade savory dumpling, much like a dinner roll in a Western restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120999\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120999\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new.jpg\" alt=\"Velvet Chicken - Burgundy Truffles, Trumpet Mushrooms, Veal Jus\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Velvet Chicken - Burgundy Truffles, Trumpet Mushrooms, Veal Jus \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120997\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120997\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new.jpg\" alt=\"Handmade savory dumpling\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Handmade savory dumpling \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was, at this point, quite honestly full, but I persisted on to the red braised pork, a rectangle of long-cooked meat with crispy skin served with a tea egg, fava beans and little strands of yuba noodles tied up into knots. A bowl of fried rice with tiny pieces of egg and a crisped-rice garnish is served alongside. The sweetness of this dish requires a bigger red wine, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.petermichaelwinery.com/Wines/Les-Pavots/\">Peter Michael Les Pavots Bordeaux Blend\u003c/a> did the job, refusing to be overwhelmed by the sweetness, but also not obscuring it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121002\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121002\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new.jpg\" alt=\"Red Braised Pork - Tea Egg, Fava Beans, Tofu Knots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Red Braised Pork - Tea Egg, Fava Beans, Tofu Knots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121004\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121004\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of fried rice with tiny pieces of egg and a crisped-rice garnish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A bowl of fried rice with tiny pieces of egg and a crisped-rice garnish. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the most clever and successful pairing of all was the Hudson Valley foie gras potsticker in beef noodle soup alongside a quite surprising wine choice: a pétillant naturel Chenin Blanc made in the little-known AVA of Clarksburg in, of all places, the Sacramento Valley (\u003ca href=\"https://haarmeyerwinecellars.com/\">Haarmeyer Wine Cellars, St. Rey\u003c/a>). But work it did, the rather funky, sweet-toned but crisp, lightly bubbly wine in harmony with the equally funky but directionally opposite duck liver.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121006\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121006\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new.jpg\" alt=\"Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker - Beef Noodle Soup\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker - Beef Noodle Soup \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121047\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121047\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new.jpg\" alt=\"Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker\" width=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two dessert courses by Villavelaquez wrap up the meal, the first a palate cleanser of chrysanthemum granita with yogurt and preserved plum, and the latter a strange \u003cem>tour-de-force\u003c/em> of mesquite bubbles with fried seaweed and passion fruit cream. The seaweed and passion fruit made a beautiful marriage, while the mesquite foam went a long way on aroma alone. Its taste was perhaps more overwhelming than intended, but it worked as an aromatic accompaniment. The last glass of the night was a discrete counterpoint among the sweet-savory-smoky elements: a \u003ca href=\"https://www.rarewineco.com/rare-wine-co-historic-series-madeira\">Madeira from The Rare Wine Co., a Charleston Sercial\u003c/a> named for the Southern U.S. city where the dry style of Madeira caught on in the early 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121011\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121011\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chrysanthemum Granita - Yogurt, Preserved Plum\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chrysanthemum Granita - Yogurt, Preserved Plum \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121013\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121013\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese Sea Grass - Passion Fruit, Mesquite Bubbles\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chinese Sea Grass - Passion Fruit, Mesquite Bubbles \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The check comes stashed in the pages of a book by the aforementioned \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kenneth_Rexroth\">Kenneth Rexroth\u003c/a>, an eminent translator of Chinese poetry, coming back around full-circle to the alley entrance that bears his name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121017\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121017\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new.jpg\" alt=\"The check is delivered in a Kenneth Rexroth book.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The check is delivered in a Kenneth Rexroth book. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We were sent home with beautiful boxes of microbatch bonbons by Oakland chocolatier \u003ca href=\"http://www.flyingnoir.net/\">Karen Urbanek\u003c/a>, stamped with symbols representing the four winds, and chopsticks with our names stamped into the enamel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121015\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121015\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new.jpg\" alt=\"Microbatch bonbons by Oakland chocolatier Karen Urbanek\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Microbatch bonbons by Oakland chocolatier Karen Urbanek \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121026\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121026\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolates stamped with symbols representing the four winds.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolates stamped with symbols representing the four winds. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And so we were carried out that evening and swept back in to the bustling streets of the city and our busy lives, taking with us the memory of culinary completeness—and full for days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121063\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new.jpg\" alt=\"Eight Tables\" width=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121063\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-160x182.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-800x908.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-768x871.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-1020x1157.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-1180x1339.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-960x1089.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-240x272.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-375x425.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-520x590.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eight Tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://chinalivesf.com/fine-dining-in-san-francisco/\">\u003cstrong>Eight Tables\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n8 Kenneth Rexroth Place\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94133 [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/SBLpKz\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 788-8788\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner, Tue-Sat, 5:30pm-9:30pm\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$ (tasting menu $225; wine pairings $125)\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ChinaLiveSF/\">China Live\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ChinaLiveSF\">@ChinaLiveSF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chinalivesf/\">@chinalivesf\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "Master Chef George Chen Opens Eight Tables, China Live’s Crown Jewel | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Eight Tables video by Vic Chin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>An elaborate 10-course tasting menu invites diners into the world of shi fan tsai, private chateau-style dining.\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinese cuisine is known for elaborate banquet spreads, and private dining is the elite flipside of the social hierarchy. Banquets tend to feature an array of different foods, often heavy, concluding with lots of rice, noodles and other starches in case you didn’t get your fill from proteins and other more expensive foods. \u003cem>Shi fan tsai\u003c/em>, on the other hand, is what you might be offered at the home of a wealthy family with a private chef: many small courses, plated individually, coursed out over a leisurely evening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120956\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120956\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new.jpg\" alt=\"Table setting at Eight Tables\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Table setting at Eight Tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The entrance to \u003ca href=\"http://chinalivesf.com/fine-dining-in-san-francisco/\">Eight Tables\u003c/a> is on Kenneth Rexroth Lane in San Francisco’s Chinatown, an alley in back of a wrought-iron gate. After fighting for parking, we were greeted at the gate by two young women in black dresses. I looked to my left, and the woman asked, “May I see your prescription?” I looked to my right, and the other woman said, “Are you here to visit Eight Tables?” Relief.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120938\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120938\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new.jpg\" alt=\"Entrance to Eight Tables\" width=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Entrance to Eight Tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>An elevator ride to the second floor delivers us to another world, one of timeless, restrained decadence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121024\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121024\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new.jpg\" alt=\"An elevator takes you upstairs to the dining area\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An elevator takes you upstairs to the dining area \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Executive Chef George Chen\u003c/strong> is well known for his legendary Betelnut restaurant in the Marina District, which closed in 2015 after a 20-year run, as well as the upscale Shanghai 1930 in the Financial District, which closed in 2010, and several other San Francisco and Shanghai restaurants. \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/03/18/china-lives-lunch-is-the-new-sf-power-lunch/\">China Live\u003c/a> is Chen’s 20,000-square-foot Chinese food emporium, along the lines of Eataly in New York (and now Chicago and Boston). Other players on this star-studded team include two Saison alums, \u003cstrong>Andrew Fuentes\u003c/strong> at the front of the house and mixologist \u003cstrong>Andrew Keels\u003c/strong> behind the bar. \u003cstrong>Tony Kim\u003c/strong>, most recently of the Redwood Room at The Clift Hotel, leads the wine program. \u003cstrong>Luis Villavelazquez\u003c/strong>, formerly of Absinthe, is the mastermind of the elaborate dessert creations to come.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120965\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120965\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef George Chen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1672\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-160x139.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-800x697.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-768x669.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-1020x888.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-1180x1028.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-960x836.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-240x209.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-375x327.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-520x453.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef George Chen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The luxurious Eight Tables space, on the second floor of China Live, all cream and golden in hue, was designed by \u003ca href=\"http://www.avroko.com/\">AvroKO\u003c/a>, which won a 2017 James Beard Award for \u003ca href=\"https://www.singlethreadfarms.com/\">Single Thread\u003c/a> in Healdsburg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the reception lounge, we were offered warm towels as we took off our coats. Behind us hung a large-format, crisply focused photo of Chen and his parents, the kind of photograph you might see in the private home of a family of means in China.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121097\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reception area with photo of George Chen and his parents.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121097\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reception area with photo of George Chen and his parents. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cul>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>As we were escorted to our seats, we paused at the bar to ooh and aah at the mobile cart where Keels stands at the ready to dispense a cocktail. We had decided to do the wine pairings instead, designed by sommelier Kim to highlight the range of possibilities for pairing wine with classic Chinese flavors, a practice that isn’t terribly common.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120955\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120955\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cocktail utensils atop rabbit fur at the mobile bar.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cocktail utensils atop rabbit fur at the mobile bar. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One stunning detail is the textured walls. Chef Chen explains that the process involved using antique fabric from Chinese wedding dresses, pressed into wet plaster, and allowed to partially dry—enough to leave the pattern behind, while not tearing the material.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120962\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120962\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new.jpg\" alt=\"Textured walls were made using fabric from antique Chinese wedding dresses.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Textured walls were made using fabric from antique Chinese wedding dresses. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are eight tables in the graciously appointed room, a number considered to be the luckiest in Chinese culture. Servers in fawn-colored suits appear and disappear in choreographed, ballet-like motion throughout the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121021\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121021\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new.jpg\" alt=\"One of the eight tables\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the eight tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120990\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120990\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new.jpg\" alt=\"Courses are presented in a choreographed manner. Mixologist Andrew Keels (L) and general manager Andrew Fuentes (R) participated in serving the meal.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Courses are presented in a choreographed manner. Mixologist Andrew Keels (L) and general manager Andrew Fuentes (R) participated in serving the meal. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chen’s cooking, further developed and executed by \u003cstrong>Chef de Cuisine Robin Lin\u003c/strong>, translates this luxury to gathering at table for a lyrical and carefully crafted meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Jiu gong ge\u003c/em>, or nine essential flavors, is the name of the first course, and from a sensory perspective, it’s a microcosm of the other nine courses to follow, as it represents the full spectrum of possible flavors: sweet, salty, sour, bitter, numbing, spicy, nutty, sharp, and smoky. Each elegant bite is plated on dishes made for just the occasion and arranged in a complex numerology that forms a \u003cem>lo shu\u003c/em> grid, which adds up to 15 vertically, horizontally and diagonally, considered very lucky, even magical.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120935\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120935\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new.jpg\" alt=\"Jiu Gong Ge - Nine Essential Flavors\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jiu Gong Ge - Nine Essential Flavors \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You will have your favorite of the bites, as well as a logic for proceeding through them. The four people at our table all chose different paths through the maze. One preferred to save the sweet jujube stuffed with glutinous rice and chickpea hearts for the last bite, while another preferred to end with a local anchovy wok-smoked with black sugar and tea. We all placed the \u003cem>ma\u003c/em> (numbing) and \u003cem>la\u003c/em> (spicy), often combined, but distinct dishes here, in the middle of the experience. Each dish represented its category precisely and creatively. My own favorites were the “sharp” clam marinated in soy sauce with ginger and scallions and the gelatin of pork shank with (sour) vinegar and thin slices of ginger. The strangest and most interesting was a little (nutty) roulade of nori and yuba (tofu noodles). A tiny stack of bitter melon slices was bracing, as intended.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>The wine selected for pairing with this course was the sparkling \u003ca href=\"https://www.kermitlynch.com/our-wines/champagne-j-lassalle/\">Cuvée Angeline Brut Champagne\u003c/a> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.champagne-jlassalle.com/en/\">J. Lassalle\u003c/a>, whose crisp brightness stands up to the intense flavors and whose sweetness gives ballast to the spicier end of things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120961\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120961\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sommelier Tony Kim pours Cuvée Angeline Brut Champagne from J. Lassalle\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sommelier Tony Kim pours Cuvée Angeline Brut Champagne from J. Lassalle \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the unanimous favorite dish of the night, course number two was a four-pronged shrimp dumpling topped with Osetra caviar, trout roe, sour cream topped with finger lime, and scallions, all in their respective quadrants and surrounded by micro-greens and Santa Barbara sea urchin on the plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120983\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120983\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Four Seas Dumpling - Russian Golden Osetra, Sea Urchin, Heirloom Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Four Seas Dumpling - Russian Golden Osetra, Sea Urchin, Heirloom Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A brilliant wine pairing was the unusual \u003ca href=\"https://www.winex.com/product/33091/Valdespino_Palomino_Fino_Ojo_de_Gallo_2016.html\">Palomino Fino from Valdespino\u003c/a>, essentially unfortified sherry. It’s dry, but with a glimmer of sherry-toned fruit sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barbecue “Shao Kao” features Kaluga caviar farmed in China! Though most diners might not have heard of it, this sturgeon caviar is being served by Lufthansa in its first-class cabins and has been vetted for sustainability and cleanliness (as China isn’t always known for environmental practices). Iberico pork (rather than the ham most of us are familiar with) is served chashu style alongside crispy duck skin and amazing little pearls of apple caviar made by Chen’s wife, Cindy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120942\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120942\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new.jpg\" alt=\"Barbecue “Shao Kao” - Kaluga on Peking Duck Skin, Iberico Char Siu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Barbecue “Shao Kao” - Kaluga on Peking Duck Skin, Iberico Char Siu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120988\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120988\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new.jpg\" alt=\"Mini pork sandwich\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mini pork sandwich \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The wine course here was a dry \u003ca href=\"http://www.cavicchioli.it/ing/vini.php?mcat=53&cat=63&id=279\">Lambrusco\u003c/a>, the sparkling Italian red wine that has reclaimed its rightful place at the table over the last decade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After much intensity on the palate, a gentler course comes next: gulf prawn consommé with glass noodles, a prawn ball and single peppery nasturtium leaf, paired with a Chardonnay from Santa Maria Valley (\u003ca href=\"http://www.nielsonwines.com/buy.asp\">Nielson by Byron\u003c/a>), buttery to the consommé’s salty sweetness. A whole fried shrimp wrapped in sea grass comes on the side; I could’ve eaten a bowl of just these.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120991\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120991\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new.jpg\" alt=\"Gulf Prawn Consommé - Glass Noodles, Prawn Ball, Nasturtium\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gulf Prawn Consommé - Glass Noodles, Prawn Ball, Nasturtium \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120992\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120992\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fried shrimp wrapped in sea grass.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fried shrimp wrapped in sea grass. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The other contender for my personal favorite dish was a Norwegian cod steamed in banana leaf with pickled white melon and bamboo “cannelloni” tucked inside, a slice of earthy-crisp lotus root on the bottom. The Champagne comes back out for this course—something I adore about this restaurant, sommelier Kim’s willingness to move in non-linear ways throughout the pairings—\u003ca href=\"http://www.champagne-gosset.com/eng\">a Gosset Brut\u003c/a>, classic non-vintage bubbly with notes of Fall fruits and tropical florals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120995\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120995\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new.jpg\" alt=\"Black Cod Wrapped in Banana Leaf - Picked White Melon, Bamboo 'Cannelloni'\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Black Cod Wrapped in Banana Leaf - Picked White Melon, Bamboo 'Cannelloni' \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Velvet chicken, the next course, is surely unlike any version you’ve ever tried, made here with early-season truffles from Burgundy and matsutake mushrooms with veal \u003cem>jus\u003c/em>. We dip into red wine with a \u003ca href=\"http://m.henryfessy.com/en/wine/fleurie-2010.php\">Fleurie Crus Beaujolais by Henry Fessy\u003c/a>, fruit-forward and high-toned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It comes with a handmade savory dumpling, much like a dinner roll in a Western restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120999\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120999\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new.jpg\" alt=\"Velvet Chicken - Burgundy Truffles, Trumpet Mushrooms, Veal Jus\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Velvet Chicken - Burgundy Truffles, Trumpet Mushrooms, Veal Jus \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120997\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120997\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new.jpg\" alt=\"Handmade savory dumpling\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Handmade savory dumpling \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was, at this point, quite honestly full, but I persisted on to the red braised pork, a rectangle of long-cooked meat with crispy skin served with a tea egg, fava beans and little strands of yuba noodles tied up into knots. A bowl of fried rice with tiny pieces of egg and a crisped-rice garnish is served alongside. The sweetness of this dish requires a bigger red wine, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.petermichaelwinery.com/Wines/Les-Pavots/\">Peter Michael Les Pavots Bordeaux Blend\u003c/a> did the job, refusing to be overwhelmed by the sweetness, but also not obscuring it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121002\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121002\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new.jpg\" alt=\"Red Braised Pork - Tea Egg, Fava Beans, Tofu Knots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Red Braised Pork - Tea Egg, Fava Beans, Tofu Knots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121004\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121004\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of fried rice with tiny pieces of egg and a crisped-rice garnish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A bowl of fried rice with tiny pieces of egg and a crisped-rice garnish. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the most clever and successful pairing of all was the Hudson Valley foie gras potsticker in beef noodle soup alongside a quite surprising wine choice: a pétillant naturel Chenin Blanc made in the little-known AVA of Clarksburg in, of all places, the Sacramento Valley (\u003ca href=\"https://haarmeyerwinecellars.com/\">Haarmeyer Wine Cellars, St. Rey\u003c/a>). But work it did, the rather funky, sweet-toned but crisp, lightly bubbly wine in harmony with the equally funky but directionally opposite duck liver.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121006\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121006\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new.jpg\" alt=\"Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker - Beef Noodle Soup\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker - Beef Noodle Soup \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121047\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121047\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new.jpg\" alt=\"Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker\" width=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two dessert courses by Villavelaquez wrap up the meal, the first a palate cleanser of chrysanthemum granita with yogurt and preserved plum, and the latter a strange \u003cem>tour-de-force\u003c/em> of mesquite bubbles with fried seaweed and passion fruit cream. The seaweed and passion fruit made a beautiful marriage, while the mesquite foam went a long way on aroma alone. Its taste was perhaps more overwhelming than intended, but it worked as an aromatic accompaniment. The last glass of the night was a discrete counterpoint among the sweet-savory-smoky elements: a \u003ca href=\"https://www.rarewineco.com/rare-wine-co-historic-series-madeira\">Madeira from The Rare Wine Co., a Charleston Sercial\u003c/a> named for the Southern U.S. city where the dry style of Madeira caught on in the early 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121011\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121011\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chrysanthemum Granita - Yogurt, Preserved Plum\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chrysanthemum Granita - Yogurt, Preserved Plum \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121013\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121013\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese Sea Grass - Passion Fruit, Mesquite Bubbles\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chinese Sea Grass - Passion Fruit, Mesquite Bubbles \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The check comes stashed in the pages of a book by the aforementioned \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kenneth_Rexroth\">Kenneth Rexroth\u003c/a>, an eminent translator of Chinese poetry, coming back around full-circle to the alley entrance that bears his name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121017\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121017\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new.jpg\" alt=\"The check is delivered in a Kenneth Rexroth book.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The check is delivered in a Kenneth Rexroth book. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We were sent home with beautiful boxes of microbatch bonbons by Oakland chocolatier \u003ca href=\"http://www.flyingnoir.net/\">Karen Urbanek\u003c/a>, stamped with symbols representing the four winds, and chopsticks with our names stamped into the enamel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121015\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121015\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new.jpg\" alt=\"Microbatch bonbons by Oakland chocolatier Karen Urbanek\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Microbatch bonbons by Oakland chocolatier Karen Urbanek \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121026\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121026\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolates stamped with symbols representing the four winds.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolates stamped with symbols representing the four winds. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And so we were carried out that evening and swept back in to the bustling streets of the city and our busy lives, taking with us the memory of culinary completeness—and full for days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121063\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new.jpg\" alt=\"Eight Tables\" width=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121063\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-160x182.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-800x908.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-768x871.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-1020x1157.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-1180x1339.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-960x1089.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-240x272.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-375x425.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-520x590.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eight Tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://chinalivesf.com/fine-dining-in-san-francisco/\">\u003cstrong>Eight Tables\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n8 Kenneth Rexroth Place\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94133 [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/SBLpKz\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 788-8788\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner, Tue-Sat, 5:30pm-9:30pm\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$ (tasting menu $225; wine pairings $125)\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ChinaLiveSF/\">China Live\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ChinaLiveSF\">@ChinaLiveSF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chinalivesf/\">@chinalivesf\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Rise Of The Beerbots: Is Tech Taking The Craft Out Of Homebrewing?",
"title": "Rise Of The Beerbots: Is Tech Taking The Craft Out Of Homebrewing?",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>In 2009, food writer Emma Christensen began brewing beer at home. She quickly grew to love each stage of the hours-long process, much of which is spent tending to a crock of boiling wort, or unfermented beer, and adding hops every few minutes. Over the course of making more than a hundred batches, she has become skilled at the art of turning barley, water, hops and yeast into beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So Christensen, like many homebrewers, is both amused and mystified by one of the latest innovations of the tech age: automated countertop brewing systems, sometimes referred to as beerbots. Like the homebrewer's version of the bread machine, beerbots have turned the gritty, sticky, ancient craft of brewing into a neat and tidy hobby that requires fairly minimal skill, an ability to follow simple directions and – of course – a smartphone or tablet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I just don't see the appeal,\" says Christensen, who has written \u003ca href=\"http://www.emmachristensenmedia.com/\">three books on homebrewing\u003c/a>. \"You throw the ingredients into a box and it becomes beer. I'd rather go to the store and buy a six-pack of really good craft beer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The level of automation varies among the different brands. For example, with the models from \u003ca href=\"https://www.picobrew.com/BrewMarketplace/Index.cshtml\">PicoBrew\u003c/a>, probably the dominant company in the field, the human participant must transfer the beer from the fermenting vessel to the serving keg. The \u003ca href=\"https://www.brewie.org/how-it-works\">Brewie\u003c/a> beerbot also requires similar liquid transferring. Other setups, like the forthcoming beerbots from \u003ca href=\"http://www.igulu.com/\">iGulu\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.minibrew.io/\">MiniBrew\u003c/a>, are advertised as doing virtually everything automatically with minimal hands-on participation from a person. The available brewing system from \u003ca href=\"https://williamswarn.co.nz/\">WilliamsWarn\u003c/a> likewise demands little attention from its operator, since every stage of the beer-making process occurs in one container, which is eventually tapped like a keg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You push a button, walk away for a week or two, and come back and pour yourself a beer,\" says Duke Geren, a craft beer enthusiast and homebrewer in Vancouver, Wash., who says he has little interest in brewing with a beerbot system, most of which are started and monitored via smartphone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bill Mitchell, co-founder of PicoBrew, explains that his company's \"mission is to minimize the manual labor that's unrelated to the art and science of brewing.\" Each of his company's three different models, which have sold about 10,000 units in the past four years, simply eliminates, or makes easier, the steps of homebrewing where mistakes are most likely to occur.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's not like you're reconstituting dried beer,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, PicoBrew's automated brewing systems carefully moderate temperatures through the brewing processes. They also automatically sterilize the equipment after brewing – a critical, and sometimes tricky, step in the process of consistently making good beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The technology helps people make better beer by helping eliminate some of the technical defects that brewers often encounter,\" says Mitchell, who compares brewing with PicoBrew systems to cooking a meal on a modern stove rather than a campfire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Pico Pro unit and the newly released Pico C allow customers to make dozens of popular commercial beers at home, including Deschutes Brewery's Fresh-Squeezed IPA and Elysian Brewing Company's Dragonstooth Stout. Online customer reviews are mixed when it comes to how perfectly these recipes, which come to one's door in a so-called PicoPak, replicate the original beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though these machines are marvels of technology, it isn't clear that using them fosters much in the way of personal brewing skills. Jeremy Marshall, Lagunitas Brewing Company's brewmaster, says he would probably never hire a new brewer whose only experience making beer has been with a beerbot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You probably don't learn very much brewing like this, except that if you put the grain and hops in this hole and press the button, you get beer,\" he says. By contrast, he has hired several assistant brewers whose only experience was homebrewing the traditional way, using a stove, bucket and large glass jug, or carboy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet Marshall uses a beerbot himself. In Lagunitas' fermentation lab at its Petaluma, Calif., headquarters, Marshall and his staff have been running a \u003ca href=\"https://www.picobrew.com/Store/products/zymatic.cshtml\">PicoBrew Zymatic\u003c/a> system since early spring, mainly to make test batches of beer with experimental grains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, of the roughly 2,400 Zymatic systems sold (for about $2,000 each) since the unit was introduced in 2013, about half, PicoBrew's Mitchell says, are now being used by commercial craft breweries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marshall believes beer machines may prove most serviceable in the long-term as research tools for professional brewers. He also expects them to remain popular among wealthy beer enthusiasts with too little time to brew in a crockpot and bucket. Traditional homebrewing can easily gobble up half a day in the first brewing stage alone. Beerbots, the advertisements claim, reduce brewing time to about two or three hours. Fermentation, the natural conversion of sugar into alcohol by yeast, takes at least several days no matter how one makes beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Geren thinks beerbots are too expensive to replace old-school homebrewing on a large scale. Whereas a traditional five-gallon (19-liter) homebrewing setup may cost about $200, the most affordable beerbot model on the market is the Pico C, which the company's website lists at $549. The Pico Pro runs about $800. Each one makes just five liters of beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For the cost of the unit and $20 to $30 for the ingredient packs, you're brewing some pretty expensive beer at that point,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.brewie.org/the-machine\">Brewie\u003c/a> system runs $2,199 and makes around 20 liters of beer per batch. The WilliamsWarn \u003ca href=\"https://williamswarn.co.nz/products/brewmaster/\">BrewMaster\u003c/a> is in a league all its own, running about $7,000 and making 23 liters at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because the WilliamsWarn system dispenses the beer from the same container in which it was fermented, \"you're sitting on that one beer until you drink it all,\" Mitchell, at PicoBrew, notes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Christensen believes the cost of the average beerbot must drop significantly if the products are going to become common household appliances. She believes automated brewing units are now \"at the precipice\" between failing as a concept and going mainstream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"As a food editor, I've tested a lot of products like these, and I have seen so many gadgets come and go,\" she says. \"I feel like it could go either way with these.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She recalls when sous vide machines first hit the market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They were so big, and I thought, 'No way – these won't survive,' \" she says. \"And now lots of people have them, and I own one, too.\"\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Automated systems have turned the messy, ancient art of brewing into a tidy hobby requiring fairly minimal skill, and of course, a smartphone or tablet. Critics ask: Where's the craft in that?",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In 2009, food writer Emma Christensen began brewing beer at home. She quickly grew to love each stage of the hours-long process, much of which is spent tending to a crock of boiling wort, or unfermented beer, and adding hops every few minutes. Over the course of making more than a hundred batches, she has become skilled at the art of turning barley, water, hops and yeast into beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So Christensen, like many homebrewers, is both amused and mystified by one of the latest innovations of the tech age: automated countertop brewing systems, sometimes referred to as beerbots. Like the homebrewer's version of the bread machine, beerbots have turned the gritty, sticky, ancient craft of brewing into a neat and tidy hobby that requires fairly minimal skill, an ability to follow simple directions and – of course – a smartphone or tablet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I just don't see the appeal,\" says Christensen, who has written \u003ca href=\"http://www.emmachristensenmedia.com/\">three books on homebrewing\u003c/a>. \"You throw the ingredients into a box and it becomes beer. I'd rather go to the store and buy a six-pack of really good craft beer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The level of automation varies among the different brands. For example, with the models from \u003ca href=\"https://www.picobrew.com/BrewMarketplace/Index.cshtml\">PicoBrew\u003c/a>, probably the dominant company in the field, the human participant must transfer the beer from the fermenting vessel to the serving keg. The \u003ca href=\"https://www.brewie.org/how-it-works\">Brewie\u003c/a> beerbot also requires similar liquid transferring. Other setups, like the forthcoming beerbots from \u003ca href=\"http://www.igulu.com/\">iGulu\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.minibrew.io/\">MiniBrew\u003c/a>, are advertised as doing virtually everything automatically with minimal hands-on participation from a person. The available brewing system from \u003ca href=\"https://williamswarn.co.nz/\">WilliamsWarn\u003c/a> likewise demands little attention from its operator, since every stage of the beer-making process occurs in one container, which is eventually tapped like a keg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You push a button, walk away for a week or two, and come back and pour yourself a beer,\" says Duke Geren, a craft beer enthusiast and homebrewer in Vancouver, Wash., who says he has little interest in brewing with a beerbot system, most of which are started and monitored via smartphone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bill Mitchell, co-founder of PicoBrew, explains that his company's \"mission is to minimize the manual labor that's unrelated to the art and science of brewing.\" Each of his company's three different models, which have sold about 10,000 units in the past four years, simply eliminates, or makes easier, the steps of homebrewing where mistakes are most likely to occur.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's not like you're reconstituting dried beer,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, PicoBrew's automated brewing systems carefully moderate temperatures through the brewing processes. They also automatically sterilize the equipment after brewing – a critical, and sometimes tricky, step in the process of consistently making good beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The technology helps people make better beer by helping eliminate some of the technical defects that brewers often encounter,\" says Mitchell, who compares brewing with PicoBrew systems to cooking a meal on a modern stove rather than a campfire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Pico Pro unit and the newly released Pico C allow customers to make dozens of popular commercial beers at home, including Deschutes Brewery's Fresh-Squeezed IPA and Elysian Brewing Company's Dragonstooth Stout. Online customer reviews are mixed when it comes to how perfectly these recipes, which come to one's door in a so-called PicoPak, replicate the original beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though these machines are marvels of technology, it isn't clear that using them fosters much in the way of personal brewing skills. Jeremy Marshall, Lagunitas Brewing Company's brewmaster, says he would probably never hire a new brewer whose only experience making beer has been with a beerbot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You probably don't learn very much brewing like this, except that if you put the grain and hops in this hole and press the button, you get beer,\" he says. By contrast, he has hired several assistant brewers whose only experience was homebrewing the traditional way, using a stove, bucket and large glass jug, or carboy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet Marshall uses a beerbot himself. In Lagunitas' fermentation lab at its Petaluma, Calif., headquarters, Marshall and his staff have been running a \u003ca href=\"https://www.picobrew.com/Store/products/zymatic.cshtml\">PicoBrew Zymatic\u003c/a> system since early spring, mainly to make test batches of beer with experimental grains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, of the roughly 2,400 Zymatic systems sold (for about $2,000 each) since the unit was introduced in 2013, about half, PicoBrew's Mitchell says, are now being used by commercial craft breweries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marshall believes beer machines may prove most serviceable in the long-term as research tools for professional brewers. He also expects them to remain popular among wealthy beer enthusiasts with too little time to brew in a crockpot and bucket. Traditional homebrewing can easily gobble up half a day in the first brewing stage alone. Beerbots, the advertisements claim, reduce brewing time to about two or three hours. Fermentation, the natural conversion of sugar into alcohol by yeast, takes at least several days no matter how one makes beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Geren thinks beerbots are too expensive to replace old-school homebrewing on a large scale. Whereas a traditional five-gallon (19-liter) homebrewing setup may cost about $200, the most affordable beerbot model on the market is the Pico C, which the company's website lists at $549. The Pico Pro runs about $800. Each one makes just five liters of beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For the cost of the unit and $20 to $30 for the ingredient packs, you're brewing some pretty expensive beer at that point,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.brewie.org/the-machine\">Brewie\u003c/a> system runs $2,199 and makes around 20 liters of beer per batch. The WilliamsWarn \u003ca href=\"https://williamswarn.co.nz/products/brewmaster/\">BrewMaster\u003c/a> is in a league all its own, running about $7,000 and making 23 liters at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because the WilliamsWarn system dispenses the beer from the same container in which it was fermented, \"you're sitting on that one beer until you drink it all,\" Mitchell, at PicoBrew, notes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Christensen believes the cost of the average beerbot must drop significantly if the products are going to become common household appliances. She believes automated brewing units are now \"at the precipice\" between failing as a concept and going mainstream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"As a food editor, I've tested a lot of products like these, and I have seen so many gadgets come and go,\" she says. \"I feel like it could go either way with these.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She recalls when sous vide machines first hit the market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They were so big, and I thought, 'No way – these won't survive,' \" she says. \"And now lots of people have them, and I own one, too.\"\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Warriors Against Waste: These Restaurants And Bars Are Aiming For Zero",
"title": "Warriors Against Waste: These Restaurants And Bars Are Aiming For Zero",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Chef Douglas McMaster's flagship restaurant, Silo, takes that \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/06/29/483306505/why-does-every-new-restaurant-look-like-a-factory\">\"industrial chic\"\u003c/a> aesthetic that dominates the modern dining scene to a whole new level. Located an hour south of London, in Brighton, England, the restaurant inhabits a 180-year-old building that has been styled into something like a barn — or a grain silo. Let's call it preindustrial chic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, McMaster has said that \u003ca href=\"http://www.silobrighton.com/\">Silo\u003c/a> isn't a restaurant so much as it is a \"a preindustrial food system that generates zero waste.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zero waste has become a sort of buzzword in the foodie world recently. From San Francisco to New York, London to Amsterdam, restaurateurs are challenging themselves to reduce the staggering amount of food waste that the industry generates (an \u003ca href=\"http://www.refed.com/solutions/waste-tracking-and-analytics\">estimated 571,000 tons \u003c/a>annually by U.S. restaurants alone) and the amount of other resources they use — including electricity and water. From rejecting plastic straws to making byproducts like whey the star of a meal — restaurants are approaching that challenge in different ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thirty-year-old McMaster has been at the helm of the movement — he opened Silo in 2014. And he's the first to say that it's nearly impossible to run a viable business that never generates \u003cem>any\u003c/em> waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Zero waste\" is the ideal. But ... he's not going to deny his customers toilet paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Really, it's about everything being natural and everything either going back into the system or going back into nature,\" McMaster says — or at least, it's about trying his very best to live up to that ideal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take, for example, the full English breakfast at Silo, which comes with all the classic components: toast, baked beans and mushrooms, topped with an egg and bacon. But the sourdough toast is baked in-house, from flour that's milled on site (so there's no fuel wasted in transporting it). The mushrooms are cultivated on site as well, in discarded coffee grounds. And everything else comes from mostly local growers — delivered sans packaging. It's all served up on a plate made from recycled plastic bags, for customers to enjoy while seated on stools made from recycled wood pulp. Anything that isn't eaten ends up inside \"Bertha,\" which is what McMaster calls the industrial composter prominently displayed in Silo's lobby.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120767\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"The menu at McMaster's Silo highlights byproducts and off-cuts — like broccoli stems.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"724\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120767\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85-160x113.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85-800x566.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85-768x543.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85-1020x721.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85-960x679.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85-240x170.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85-375x265.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85-520x368.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu at McMaster's Silo highlights byproducts and off-cuts — like broccoli stems. \u003ccite>(Xavier Buendia/Courtesy of Doug McMaster)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Silo does generate some waste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The big thing is wine — it would be ideal if we could get wine locally on tap,\" McMaster says. \"The problem is we don't have the right latitude to be growing wine, whereas they do in Italy and Spain and France.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And he does feel guilty about all the empty wine bottles he's left with at the end of each day. He can recycle the glass, but he'd rather not create any waste in the first place. McMaster is also hoping that local artists can come up with a way to repurpose the glass bottles as artwork. \"It is a compromise on zero waste,\" he says. \"But sometimes you have got to be realistic, and you've got to be commercial.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His newest venture, Cub — a fine dining restaurant in London that opened this month — serves bottles of high-end champagne. But it eliminates waste in other ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The goal is to create a delicious, luxurious experience for customers without creating unnecessary waste. At Cub, they're looking at the composter as a last resort, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.mrlyan.com/\">Ryan Chetiyawardana\u003c/a>, the zero-waste mastermind behind a couple of award-winning London bars and McMaster's collaborator for this latest venture. \"The idea is just reducing what we have coming in,\" Chetiyawardana says. \"So there's nothing left over.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu features food and drink that elevate ingredients most people might consider byproducts, or off-cuts. For example: \"Compost Smoked Carrot, Buffalo Curds and Whey.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other dishes feature herbs and produce that are grown on site, with input from MIT flavor scientist Arielle Johnson. This includes two types of hydroponically raised radish seedlings — with completely different flavor profiles that come from manipulating the nutrients and stressors absorbed during cultivation. So you're basically getting two different flavors out of one, sustainably produced ingredient, Chetiyawardana explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His other operations have used slightly different eco-tactics. \"When I first started bartending, everybody thought that to make a cocktail, the default was you'd take two parts of spirit, and one part of citrus and one part sweetener,\" Chetiyawardana says. The problem was, \"with fresh fruit, you squeeze the juice out of it, you might use the zest and you throw the rest away,\" he says. \"So I started to explore other options.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120768\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"McMaster's newest venture is Cub — a fine dining restaurant in London that opened this month. From rejecting plastic straws to making byproducts like whey the star of a meal — restaurants are approaching the challenge in different ways.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1065\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120768\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85-1180x785.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">McMaster's newest venture is Cub — a fine dining restaurant in London that opened this month. From rejecting plastic straws to making byproducts like whey the star of a meal — restaurants are approaching the challenge in different ways. \u003ccite>(Kim Lightbody /Courtesy of Ryan Chetiyawardana)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Instead of using fresh citrus for kick, at his first cocktail bar, White Lyan (which he closed this spring), Chetiyawardana experimented with vinegars and powdered acids. To avoid wasting water, he eschewed ice. Instead, each concoction was perfectly proportioned and pre-chilled. And to avoid creating waste packaging and burning away gasoline, he made his own spirits, tinctures and cordials in-house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Of course, that was a very dramatic approach,\" Chetiyawardana says. \"But I don't think 'zero waste' has to be all or nothing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's the attitude of Claire Sprouse and Chad Arnholt, who run the New York-based \u003ca href=\"http://tinroofdrinkcommunity.com/\">Tin Roof Drink Community\u003c/a>, a sustainability consulting firm for bars that has worked with venues all over the U.S.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\"There are so many things we do in the industry that are wasteful,\" Sprouse says. \"So it's really about chipping away at the things.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Adds Arnholt, \"This point cannot be overstated: Bars are a luxury business. At the end of the day, it is inherently wasteful because it's not fundamentally necessary.\"\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sprouse, who currently runs the bar \u003ca href=\"https://www.sundayinbrooklyn.com/\">Sunday in Brooklyn\u003c/a>, says: \"The chef and I work very closely together to use each others' byproducts.\" When the chef decides to make corn on the cob, for example, Sprouse uses the woody kernels at the ends to make a cream that's reminiscent of coconut milk. \"And I actually use that instead of coconut cream in cocktails,\" she says. The corncobs and corn silk are turned into stocks or tea. \"So we're getting to experiment and play,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's the fun bit. The frustrating bit? \"There's a multitude of other infrastructure and legislative barriers along the way,\" Arnholt says. Whereas Chetiyawardana was allowed to make his own spirits in the U.K., American bars and restaurants can't easily do so due to legal barriers. \"And buying bulk spirits is flatly illegal in the U.S.,\" Arnholt notes. \"You're not allowed to buy a spirit from a supplier that doesn't come in a single use container.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are always limits, agrees Josh Fontaine — one of the founders of the Quixotic restaurant group in Paris. The group's latest restaurant, Les Grands Verres, which opened this July, sources locally whenever possible (to save fuel), aims to reduce food waste in the first place, and turns any leftover bits into natural gas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are certain health rules that are imposed on us, so we have to use plastic wrap,\" Fontaine says. \"And then there's things like — how do you order mop handles without them being in a box? How do you order your plates without boxes?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So I guess in that sense, we are far from zero waste,\" he adds. \"But we're doing the best we can.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Chef Douglas McMaster's flagship restaurant, Silo, takes that \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/06/29/483306505/why-does-every-new-restaurant-look-like-a-factory\">\"industrial chic\"\u003c/a> aesthetic that dominates the modern dining scene to a whole new level. Located an hour south of London, in Brighton, England, the restaurant inhabits a 180-year-old building that has been styled into something like a barn — or a grain silo. Let's call it preindustrial chic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, McMaster has said that \u003ca href=\"http://www.silobrighton.com/\">Silo\u003c/a> isn't a restaurant so much as it is a \"a preindustrial food system that generates zero waste.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zero waste has become a sort of buzzword in the foodie world recently. From San Francisco to New York, London to Amsterdam, restaurateurs are challenging themselves to reduce the staggering amount of food waste that the industry generates (an \u003ca href=\"http://www.refed.com/solutions/waste-tracking-and-analytics\">estimated 571,000 tons \u003c/a>annually by U.S. restaurants alone) and the amount of other resources they use — including electricity and water. From rejecting plastic straws to making byproducts like whey the star of a meal — restaurants are approaching that challenge in different ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thirty-year-old McMaster has been at the helm of the movement — he opened Silo in 2014. And he's the first to say that it's nearly impossible to run a viable business that never generates \u003cem>any\u003c/em> waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Zero waste\" is the ideal. But ... he's not going to deny his customers toilet paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Really, it's about everything being natural and everything either going back into the system or going back into nature,\" McMaster says — or at least, it's about trying his very best to live up to that ideal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take, for example, the full English breakfast at Silo, which comes with all the classic components: toast, baked beans and mushrooms, topped with an egg and bacon. But the sourdough toast is baked in-house, from flour that's milled on site (so there's no fuel wasted in transporting it). The mushrooms are cultivated on site as well, in discarded coffee grounds. And everything else comes from mostly local growers — delivered sans packaging. It's all served up on a plate made from recycled plastic bags, for customers to enjoy while seated on stools made from recycled wood pulp. Anything that isn't eaten ends up inside \"Bertha,\" which is what McMaster calls the industrial composter prominently displayed in Silo's lobby.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120767\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"The menu at McMaster's Silo highlights byproducts and off-cuts — like broccoli stems.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"724\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120767\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85-160x113.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85-800x566.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85-768x543.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85-1020x721.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85-960x679.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85-240x170.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85-375x265.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/silo2_custom-46e3511c228b68080eea383f6d66c90e49fc0eb8-s1600-c85-520x368.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu at McMaster's Silo highlights byproducts and off-cuts — like broccoli stems. \u003ccite>(Xavier Buendia/Courtesy of Doug McMaster)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Silo does generate some waste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The big thing is wine — it would be ideal if we could get wine locally on tap,\" McMaster says. \"The problem is we don't have the right latitude to be growing wine, whereas they do in Italy and Spain and France.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And he does feel guilty about all the empty wine bottles he's left with at the end of each day. He can recycle the glass, but he'd rather not create any waste in the first place. McMaster is also hoping that local artists can come up with a way to repurpose the glass bottles as artwork. \"It is a compromise on zero waste,\" he says. \"But sometimes you have got to be realistic, and you've got to be commercial.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His newest venture, Cub — a fine dining restaurant in London that opened this month — serves bottles of high-end champagne. But it eliminates waste in other ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The goal is to create a delicious, luxurious experience for customers without creating unnecessary waste. At Cub, they're looking at the composter as a last resort, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.mrlyan.com/\">Ryan Chetiyawardana\u003c/a>, the zero-waste mastermind behind a couple of award-winning London bars and McMaster's collaborator for this latest venture. \"The idea is just reducing what we have coming in,\" Chetiyawardana says. \"So there's nothing left over.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu features food and drink that elevate ingredients most people might consider byproducts, or off-cuts. For example: \"Compost Smoked Carrot, Buffalo Curds and Whey.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other dishes feature herbs and produce that are grown on site, with input from MIT flavor scientist Arielle Johnson. This includes two types of hydroponically raised radish seedlings — with completely different flavor profiles that come from manipulating the nutrients and stressors absorbed during cultivation. So you're basically getting two different flavors out of one, sustainably produced ingredient, Chetiyawardana explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His other operations have used slightly different eco-tactics. \"When I first started bartending, everybody thought that to make a cocktail, the default was you'd take two parts of spirit, and one part of citrus and one part sweetener,\" Chetiyawardana says. The problem was, \"with fresh fruit, you squeeze the juice out of it, you might use the zest and you throw the rest away,\" he says. \"So I started to explore other options.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120768\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"McMaster's newest venture is Cub — a fine dining restaurant in London that opened this month. From rejecting plastic straws to making byproducts like whey the star of a meal — restaurants are approaching the challenge in different ways.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1065\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120768\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85-1180x785.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/cub_004_custom-8162bdbcec991c7dc4a11b4b3332fbbce6c21ee3-s1600-c85-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">McMaster's newest venture is Cub — a fine dining restaurant in London that opened this month. From rejecting plastic straws to making byproducts like whey the star of a meal — restaurants are approaching the challenge in different ways. \u003ccite>(Kim Lightbody /Courtesy of Ryan Chetiyawardana)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Instead of using fresh citrus for kick, at his first cocktail bar, White Lyan (which he closed this spring), Chetiyawardana experimented with vinegars and powdered acids. To avoid wasting water, he eschewed ice. Instead, each concoction was perfectly proportioned and pre-chilled. And to avoid creating waste packaging and burning away gasoline, he made his own spirits, tinctures and cordials in-house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Of course, that was a very dramatic approach,\" Chetiyawardana says. \"But I don't think 'zero waste' has to be all or nothing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's the attitude of Claire Sprouse and Chad Arnholt, who run the New York-based \u003ca href=\"http://tinroofdrinkcommunity.com/\">Tin Roof Drink Community\u003c/a>, a sustainability consulting firm for bars that has worked with venues all over the U.S.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\"There are so many things we do in the industry that are wasteful,\" Sprouse says. \"So it's really about chipping away at the things.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Adds Arnholt, \"This point cannot be overstated: Bars are a luxury business. At the end of the day, it is inherently wasteful because it's not fundamentally necessary.\"\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sprouse, who currently runs the bar \u003ca href=\"https://www.sundayinbrooklyn.com/\">Sunday in Brooklyn\u003c/a>, says: \"The chef and I work very closely together to use each others' byproducts.\" When the chef decides to make corn on the cob, for example, Sprouse uses the woody kernels at the ends to make a cream that's reminiscent of coconut milk. \"And I actually use that instead of coconut cream in cocktails,\" she says. The corncobs and corn silk are turned into stocks or tea. \"So we're getting to experiment and play,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's the fun bit. The frustrating bit? \"There's a multitude of other infrastructure and legislative barriers along the way,\" Arnholt says. Whereas Chetiyawardana was allowed to make his own spirits in the U.K., American bars and restaurants can't easily do so due to legal barriers. \"And buying bulk spirits is flatly illegal in the U.S.,\" Arnholt notes. \"You're not allowed to buy a spirit from a supplier that doesn't come in a single use container.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are always limits, agrees Josh Fontaine — one of the founders of the Quixotic restaurant group in Paris. The group's latest restaurant, Les Grands Verres, which opened this July, sources locally whenever possible (to save fuel), aims to reduce food waste in the first place, and turns any leftover bits into natural gas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are certain health rules that are imposed on us, so we have to use plastic wrap,\" Fontaine says. \"And then there's things like — how do you order mop handles without them being in a box? How do you order your plates without boxes?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So I guess in that sense, we are far from zero waste,\" he adds. \"But we're doing the best we can.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Nobody Takes The Bodega Out Of The Corner. Not Even A Startup",
"title": "Nobody Takes The Bodega Out Of The Corner. Not Even A Startup",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>When the word \"bodega\" began to trend all over Twitter this week, I wondered if something bad had happened in one those beloved neighborhood joints.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You see, I grew up with bodegas. I don't remember a time when a lot of the corner stores in my neighborhood of Ridgewood, Queens, weren't a fixture in my life, as ever-present as my mom's platano dishes and savory bean stews or my dad's Puerto Rican folklore. Even now, as an adult who still lives in the same neighborhood, I constantly go to corner stores, whether it's for a bottle of seltzer or a late-snack of spicy takis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when I saw that \"bodega\" was trending, I wondered if some moneyed, hipster transplant had set up a bar in an immigrant neighborhood and insensitively named it \"Bodega.\"\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>It was worse.\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It turned out that two ex-Google employees wanted to work on a startup named \"Bodega.\" Their logo was a cat, not unlike the actual corner store cats — with names like Tito — that sleep on the newspapers or bags of bread. Except their concept was essentially a glorified vending machine\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>that would be placed inside gyms and lobbies. There would be no bodega cat, no \u003cem>bodegero \u003c/em>playing lewd bachata over his speakers, no loosies (cigarettes sold individually) and no Caribbean coconut candies. Just an unmanned pantry box filled with bougie products that customers would pay for through an app connected to their credit cards. Their aim, \u003ca href=\"https://www.fastcompany.com/40466047/two-ex-googlers-want-to-make-bodegas-and-mom-and-pop-corner-stores-obsolete\">as one headline put it\u003c/a>, was to make the traditional corner store \"obsolete.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I laughed. And then I read a description in a news article in which the founders said that they wanted to eliminate the hassle of human interaction. But I don't go to bodegas just for the convenience. Sometimes I go for a pack of gum and end up standing at the counter for more than 15 minutes, just chatting with the guy manning the cash register who knows my dad and always\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>says \"hi\" when I come in. I go because his brother — whom everyone has nicknamed \"Rubio,\" because he's the \"light-skinned one\" — is hilarious. I go because they're part of my community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120750\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9.jpg\" alt=\"Bolivar Mena manages the Mini Market in Queens frequented by writer Angely Mercado. He always greets his customers and does his best to manage morning and afternoon rushes.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120750\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bolivar Mena manages the Mini Market in Queens frequented by writer Angely Mercado. He always greets his customers and does his best to manage morning and afternoon rushes. \u003ccite>(Angely Mercado)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I also go because bodegas are one of the things that have kept me Caribbean throughout my life. As the child of a Puerto Rican man and a Dominican immigrant, Spanish was my first language. I learned the bulk of my English at school — and then I learned shame. I was embarrassed by my parents' accents; I spent hours scouring my vocabulary to make sure that it sounded \"American\" to my teachers who lived in places like Long Island. I didn't want to eat the mango my mom packed as a snack, and I envied the kids in CapriSun commercials.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But inside a bodega, I could just be. Coca-Cola existed in the same store as \u003cem>coconete\u003c/em>, a chewy coconut biscuit from the Dominican Republic. There were Cheetos and yucca crackers that my grandmother could crumble over her \u003cem>sancocho,\u003c/em> a hearty meat and vegetable\u003cem> \u003c/em>stew\u003cem>.\u003c/em> I learned to appreciate the flavors of my parents' childhood like \u003cem>batata\u003c/em> and\u003cem> tamarindo\u003c/em> by stocking practically every tropical flavor of Mamitas Ices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of the \u003cem>bodegeros\u003c/em> near me spoke English; some of these men even learned random words in Polish or Arabic so they could interact with some of the newer immigrants in my mainly European and Latino neighborhood. Despite that, I had to speak to them in Spanish. It was a sort of unspoken rule that I should speak Spanish to adults who didn't speak English as well. That, along with my dad refusing to speak to me in English, helped keep me bilingual during my late elementary to middle-school years. I kept certain Dominican phrases and lilts in my speech thanks to hearing them regularly in bodegas. It was a \u003cem>bodegero, \u003c/em>and not my mom, who highlighted the differences between different tubers like \u003cem>malanga\u003c/em> and \u003cem>yautia\u003c/em>, and gave me advice on which phone cards were best for calling family in the Caribbean. And during my final semester of graduate school, an Ecuadorian \u003cem>bodegero\u003c/em> who could tweak his Spanish to match each of his customers let me interview him for a class assignment. I asked him questions for more than an hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before my sister and I were old enough to have our own house keys, we were locked outside of our apartment building when we left an after-school program early. Our parents weren't home yet, so we ran over to the corner store to take shelter from the winter air. The guys behind the counter offered to share their dinner. We declined but were really happy that they pulled out chairs for us and gave us water. It reminded me of how my parents treated guests. We were eventually able to go back home without having to deal with frostbite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A glorified vending machine can't give life advice or make you laugh. It can't ask me \"What's wrong?\" when I go to in at 10 p.m. for a bag full of snacks that I bought to help me eat my feelings after a breakup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd rather support a person trying to feed their family — and feed the heart of a neighborhood — than grab something out of a box.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Angely Mercado is a writer based in New York City whose work has appeared in Lenny Letter, Brooklyn Based, and The Lily. She writes about culture, feminism and New York.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A new startup wants to make these neighborhood stores \"obsolete.\" But for many people, bodegas aren't just about convenience — they feed the spirit of a community.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When the word \"bodega\" began to trend all over Twitter this week, I wondered if something bad had happened in one those beloved neighborhood joints.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You see, I grew up with bodegas. I don't remember a time when a lot of the corner stores in my neighborhood of Ridgewood, Queens, weren't a fixture in my life, as ever-present as my mom's platano dishes and savory bean stews or my dad's Puerto Rican folklore. Even now, as an adult who still lives in the same neighborhood, I constantly go to corner stores, whether it's for a bottle of seltzer or a late-snack of spicy takis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when I saw that \"bodega\" was trending, I wondered if some moneyed, hipster transplant had set up a bar in an immigrant neighborhood and insensitively named it \"Bodega.\"\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>It was worse.\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It turned out that two ex-Google employees wanted to work on a startup named \"Bodega.\" Their logo was a cat, not unlike the actual corner store cats — with names like Tito — that sleep on the newspapers or bags of bread. Except their concept was essentially a glorified vending machine\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>that would be placed inside gyms and lobbies. There would be no bodega cat, no \u003cem>bodegero \u003c/em>playing lewd bachata over his speakers, no loosies (cigarettes sold individually) and no Caribbean coconut candies. Just an unmanned pantry box filled with bougie products that customers would pay for through an app connected to their credit cards. Their aim, \u003ca href=\"https://www.fastcompany.com/40466047/two-ex-googlers-want-to-make-bodegas-and-mom-and-pop-corner-stores-obsolete\">as one headline put it\u003c/a>, was to make the traditional corner store \"obsolete.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I laughed. And then I read a description in a news article in which the founders said that they wanted to eliminate the hassle of human interaction. But I don't go to bodegas just for the convenience. Sometimes I go for a pack of gum and end up standing at the counter for more than 15 minutes, just chatting with the guy manning the cash register who knows my dad and always\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>says \"hi\" when I come in. I go because his brother — whom everyone has nicknamed \"Rubio,\" because he's the \"light-skinned one\" — is hilarious. I go because they're part of my community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120750\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9.jpg\" alt=\"Bolivar Mena manages the Mini Market in Queens frequented by writer Angely Mercado. He always greets his customers and does his best to manage morning and afternoon rushes.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120750\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/bodega4_mercado_custom-2bf4da7c50a1624e30230bebc1794d7a47252cf9-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bolivar Mena manages the Mini Market in Queens frequented by writer Angely Mercado. He always greets his customers and does his best to manage morning and afternoon rushes. \u003ccite>(Angely Mercado)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I also go because bodegas are one of the things that have kept me Caribbean throughout my life. As the child of a Puerto Rican man and a Dominican immigrant, Spanish was my first language. I learned the bulk of my English at school — and then I learned shame. I was embarrassed by my parents' accents; I spent hours scouring my vocabulary to make sure that it sounded \"American\" to my teachers who lived in places like Long Island. I didn't want to eat the mango my mom packed as a snack, and I envied the kids in CapriSun commercials.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But inside a bodega, I could just be. Coca-Cola existed in the same store as \u003cem>coconete\u003c/em>, a chewy coconut biscuit from the Dominican Republic. There were Cheetos and yucca crackers that my grandmother could crumble over her \u003cem>sancocho,\u003c/em> a hearty meat and vegetable\u003cem> \u003c/em>stew\u003cem>.\u003c/em> I learned to appreciate the flavors of my parents' childhood like \u003cem>batata\u003c/em> and\u003cem> tamarindo\u003c/em> by stocking practically every tropical flavor of Mamitas Ices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of the \u003cem>bodegeros\u003c/em> near me spoke English; some of these men even learned random words in Polish or Arabic so they could interact with some of the newer immigrants in my mainly European and Latino neighborhood. Despite that, I had to speak to them in Spanish. It was a sort of unspoken rule that I should speak Spanish to adults who didn't speak English as well. That, along with my dad refusing to speak to me in English, helped keep me bilingual during my late elementary to middle-school years. I kept certain Dominican phrases and lilts in my speech thanks to hearing them regularly in bodegas. It was a \u003cem>bodegero, \u003c/em>and not my mom, who highlighted the differences between different tubers like \u003cem>malanga\u003c/em> and \u003cem>yautia\u003c/em>, and gave me advice on which phone cards were best for calling family in the Caribbean. And during my final semester of graduate school, an Ecuadorian \u003cem>bodegero\u003c/em> who could tweak his Spanish to match each of his customers let me interview him for a class assignment. I asked him questions for more than an hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before my sister and I were old enough to have our own house keys, we were locked outside of our apartment building when we left an after-school program early. Our parents weren't home yet, so we ran over to the corner store to take shelter from the winter air. The guys behind the counter offered to share their dinner. We declined but were really happy that they pulled out chairs for us and gave us water. It reminded me of how my parents treated guests. We were eventually able to go back home without having to deal with frostbite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A glorified vending machine can't give life advice or make you laugh. It can't ask me \"What's wrong?\" when I go to in at 10 p.m. for a bag full of snacks that I bought to help me eat my feelings after a breakup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd rather support a person trying to feed their family — and feed the heart of a neighborhood — than grab something out of a box.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Angely Mercado is a writer based in New York City whose work has appeared in Lenny Letter, Brooklyn Based, and The Lily. She writes about culture, feminism and New York.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Rise Of Mock Meat: How Its Story Reflects America's Ever-Changing Values",
"title": "The Rise Of Mock Meat: How Its Story Reflects America's Ever-Changing Values",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Monday is Labor Day — the last hurrah of grilling for much of America. And at many of these summertime cookouts, you'll find veggie burgers alongside (or instead of) the traditional beef and brats. Whether for health, environmental or ethical reasons, more people are tossing veggie burgers on the grill — even \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/08/14/212024490/even-carnivores-are-putting-more-fake-meat-on-their-plates\">carnivores\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today's mock meats are getting \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/06/21/482322571/silicon-valley-s-bloody-plant-burger-smells-tastes-and-sizzles-like-meat\">closer and closer\u003c/a> to the taste and texture of the real thing. But as more Americans embrace these next-generation veggie burgers, we can't help but wonder — where did veggie burgers come from in the first place?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For early vegetarians, the lack of a meaty veggie burger with decent char wasn't just because our forebears hadn't mastered isolating wheat gluten and pea protein. It was ideological.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Through the 1850s and 1860s, vegetarian food is purposely plain,\" explains Pennsylvania's Marywood University historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.marywood.edu/socsci/faculty/facdisplay.html?id=abc29fc7-9ef0-4d16-9bb2-9198aaebbbd1\">Adam Shprintzen\u003c/a>, who traced the history of early American vegetarianism in his book \u003ca href=\"https://www.uncpress.org/book/9781469626529/the-vegetarian-crusade/\">\u003cem>The Vegetarian Crusade\u003c/em>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Part of the reason they're avoiding meat is the fear of overstimulation,\" he says. \"Health reformers were afraid of blackening food with pepper and other spices that were thought to overtax the system.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the mid-19th century, when the \u003ca href=\"https://ivu.org/history/societies/americanvs.html\">American Vegetarian Society\u003c/a> formed, fare wasn't much more extravagant than boiled vegetables, coarse wheat breads and custards. But toward the end of the century, the food started to change, Shprintzen notes, in a way that mirrored the change in vegetarianism itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The push towards mock meat really represents a push in the nature of vegetarianism,\" he says. \"It tries to realign vegetarianism away from radical politics, and toward using vegetarianism as a vehicle for success — reform for the benefit of the individual, rather than social reform.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A broader approach to wellness\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Against this backdrop, it's no surprise that the first commercial mock meat came out of one of the most famous destinations for personal health of that era — Michigan's \u003ca href=\"http://www.heritagebattlecreek.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=95&Itemid=73\">Battle Creek Sanitarium\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.howardmarkel.com/\">Howard Markel\u003c/a> became well-versed in the intricacies of the sanitarium when he dug into the history of the men behind it for his book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/216458/the-kelloggs-by-howard-markel/9780307907271/\">\u003cem>The Kelloggs: The Battling Brothers of Battle Creek\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. And yes, we're talking \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/08/08/542145177/how-the-battling-kellogg-brothers-revolutionized-american-breakfast\">\u003cem>those \u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/08/08/542145177/how-the-battling-kellogg-brothers-revolutionized-american-breakfast\">Kelloggs\u003c/a>. Although the name is now synonymous with breakfast, their original mission was to take a broader approach to wellness, with a retreat founded on their Seventh-Day Adventist health principles — a vegetarian diet, with days full of exercise (and sans tobacco and alcohol).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many guests of the Battle Creek Sanitarium signed up for the program because of dyspepsia — aka heartburn, indigestion, bloat and other such digestive unpleasantness. And Markel says it's not surprising, given the diet of the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They ate a lot of cured salted meats simmering in fatty gravy, a lot of butter, a lot of fried foods, a lot of sugar — and washed it down with a lot of alcohol.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although Dr. John Harvey Kellogg's vegetarianism was inspired by his faith, the prevalence of indigestion (Walt Whitman called it \"\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2016/04/30/books/walt-whitman-promoted-a-paleo-diet-who-knew.html?mcubz=3\">the great American evil\u003c/a>\") gave Kellogg's clean eating a toehold in the wider culture, as the sanitarium drew guests such as women's and civil rights activist Sojourner Truth, pilot Amelia Earhart and \u003cem>Tarzan\u003c/em> actor Johnny Weismuller. In addition to health treatments, guests dined on then-revolutionary dishes like those containing soy milk or probiotics, flaked whole grain cereals ... and mock meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The doctor, as part of his own research, had a food lab,\" explains Markel. He, his wife, and his brother began to experiment with nut-based mock meats. And, according to the notebooks, there were \u003cem>a lot\u003c/em> of experiments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It didn't hold together, or there wasn't enough gluten, or they found boiling them at too high a temperature made them taste acrid or sour. Sometimes they even measured barometric pressure,\" laughs Markel. \"Like Edison, that's classic 19th century invention — you just try a million things until it worked. John Harvey Kellogg was exactly that type of inventor, but his lab was a kitchen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all this tinkering, the Kelloggs came out with mock meats formed from a mix of nuts and gluten. Their first success was Protose — Kellogg claimed that the product \"resembles potted veal or chicken. It has a distinctly meaty odor and flavor. When a bit is torn off and chewed, it shows a distinct fiber. It is of such consistency that it may be masticated like tender meat and when cooked retains its form as does meat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This may have been a bit of an exaggeration — by all accounts, Protose tastes like, well, peanuts. And gluten. But it was protein-filled (or, to use the parlance of the time, blood-building), palatable, and, most importantly, had a monopoly in the mock-meat market. Kellogg served it to guests, and also sold cans via mail order — Markel estimates that at their height, annual sales of mock meat totaled over one million dollars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To boost popularity, Battle Creek produced recipe catalogues explaining how to make a delicious mushroom gravy for Protose, or to serve it to taste just like veal or chicken. Later products included veggie hot dogs, as well as \"skallops\" and other mock meats — although, Markel notes, \"They were all made out of the same thing, just shaped differently. There are only so many nuts, and so many things you can do with gluten.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other products followed suit in that era, mostly also from Adventist-affiliated corporations following a similar model of canned mock meat. For a while, that was pretty much the entirety of the mock-meat industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The new vegetarian movement\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.earthandtablelawreporter.com/about/\">Paul Swanson\u003c/a>, an intellectual property litigator with a special interest in food, dug into \u003ca href=\"http://www.earthandtablelawreporter.com/2016/06/20/patenting-the-quest-for-a-more-perfect-veggie-burger/\">patent history\u003c/a> to track the evolution of veggie burgers. After the initial spate of Protose-inspired mock-meat development, he says, the scene was fairly quiet (save for the mid-century development of Bac-O Bits, which are arguably more of a salad condiment than full-fledged meat substitute). But then, as the natural foods movement, countercultural resistance and other social movements took hold, eating habits similarly began to change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You go into the 70s, and there's a newfound movement for vegetarianism,\" Swanson observes. \"You then have the second wave of innovation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Products like \u003ca href=\"http://www.gardenburger.com/\">Gardenburger\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.kraftheinz-foodservice.com/en/productsandbrands/meats/boca/products\">Boca Burger\u003c/a> were developed, and began to spread across the country. These veggie patties not only tasted better than their turn-of-the-century forebears — they also ditched the cans, showing up in the freezer section.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Product placement is really important — if they want to be thought of as fresh, there's a psychology thing going on,\" acknowledges Swanson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While these patties were sold closer to the frozen beef burgers, the second wave of mock meat was still mostly for vegetarians, or those steering clear of saturated fats (these were the days before Meatless Mondays.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But on today's grills, we'll find something that's more like a third wave of veggie burgers, engineered to be more like meat than could have been conceived in the basement health-food stores of the 1980s (or the Kellogg labs of a century prior). According to Swanson, the novelty is no longer in the processing, but in the materials themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The recent patents are more about the composition. Things that \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/02/11/514544431/saving-the-planet-one-burger-at-a-time-this-juicy-patty-is-meat-free\">bleed\u003c/a> ... they're doing so much work tearing apart and putting together plant matter.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike the early religiously affiliated mock-meat producers, or the second-wave countercultural companies like Oregon's Gardenburger, some of these third-wave veggie burger makers (unsurprisingly) come out of Silicon Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The vegetarians (or omnivores) who toss a veggie burger on the grill this weekend may be looking for a modern \"disruption\" of the meat industry — either for health, environmental or ethical concerns. Or they might just be wanting a delicious summer cookout. And they can achieve their tasty goal with a just-developed can't-believe-it's-not-meat creation, or the current iteration of the classic second-wave burgers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although sadly, not with Protose — the last cans stopped production after just about a century. But thanks to those pioneers, the modern-day bearers of the mock-meat torch can be found at pretty much any neighborhood grocery store.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Deena Prichep is a freelance print and radio journalist based in Portland, Ore.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Summer's coming to an end, and whether for health or ethical reasons, more people are flipping veggie burgers — which have come a long way since the sanitarium-created concoctions of the 19th century.",
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"description": "Summer's coming to an end, and whether for health or ethical reasons, more people are flipping veggie burgers — which have come a long way since the sanitarium-created concoctions of the 19th century.",
"title": "The Rise Of Mock Meat: How Its Story Reflects America's Ever-Changing Values | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Monday is Labor Day — the last hurrah of grilling for much of America. And at many of these summertime cookouts, you'll find veggie burgers alongside (or instead of) the traditional beef and brats. Whether for health, environmental or ethical reasons, more people are tossing veggie burgers on the grill — even \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/08/14/212024490/even-carnivores-are-putting-more-fake-meat-on-their-plates\">carnivores\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today's mock meats are getting \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/06/21/482322571/silicon-valley-s-bloody-plant-burger-smells-tastes-and-sizzles-like-meat\">closer and closer\u003c/a> to the taste and texture of the real thing. But as more Americans embrace these next-generation veggie burgers, we can't help but wonder — where did veggie burgers come from in the first place?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For early vegetarians, the lack of a meaty veggie burger with decent char wasn't just because our forebears hadn't mastered isolating wheat gluten and pea protein. It was ideological.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Through the 1850s and 1860s, vegetarian food is purposely plain,\" explains Pennsylvania's Marywood University historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.marywood.edu/socsci/faculty/facdisplay.html?id=abc29fc7-9ef0-4d16-9bb2-9198aaebbbd1\">Adam Shprintzen\u003c/a>, who traced the history of early American vegetarianism in his book \u003ca href=\"https://www.uncpress.org/book/9781469626529/the-vegetarian-crusade/\">\u003cem>The Vegetarian Crusade\u003c/em>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Part of the reason they're avoiding meat is the fear of overstimulation,\" he says. \"Health reformers were afraid of blackening food with pepper and other spices that were thought to overtax the system.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the mid-19th century, when the \u003ca href=\"https://ivu.org/history/societies/americanvs.html\">American Vegetarian Society\u003c/a> formed, fare wasn't much more extravagant than boiled vegetables, coarse wheat breads and custards. But toward the end of the century, the food started to change, Shprintzen notes, in a way that mirrored the change in vegetarianism itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The push towards mock meat really represents a push in the nature of vegetarianism,\" he says. \"It tries to realign vegetarianism away from radical politics, and toward using vegetarianism as a vehicle for success — reform for the benefit of the individual, rather than social reform.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A broader approach to wellness\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Against this backdrop, it's no surprise that the first commercial mock meat came out of one of the most famous destinations for personal health of that era — Michigan's \u003ca href=\"http://www.heritagebattlecreek.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=95&Itemid=73\">Battle Creek Sanitarium\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.howardmarkel.com/\">Howard Markel\u003c/a> became well-versed in the intricacies of the sanitarium when he dug into the history of the men behind it for his book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/216458/the-kelloggs-by-howard-markel/9780307907271/\">\u003cem>The Kelloggs: The Battling Brothers of Battle Creek\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. And yes, we're talking \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/08/08/542145177/how-the-battling-kellogg-brothers-revolutionized-american-breakfast\">\u003cem>those \u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/08/08/542145177/how-the-battling-kellogg-brothers-revolutionized-american-breakfast\">Kelloggs\u003c/a>. Although the name is now synonymous with breakfast, their original mission was to take a broader approach to wellness, with a retreat founded on their Seventh-Day Adventist health principles — a vegetarian diet, with days full of exercise (and sans tobacco and alcohol).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many guests of the Battle Creek Sanitarium signed up for the program because of dyspepsia — aka heartburn, indigestion, bloat and other such digestive unpleasantness. And Markel says it's not surprising, given the diet of the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They ate a lot of cured salted meats simmering in fatty gravy, a lot of butter, a lot of fried foods, a lot of sugar — and washed it down with a lot of alcohol.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although Dr. John Harvey Kellogg's vegetarianism was inspired by his faith, the prevalence of indigestion (Walt Whitman called it \"\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2016/04/30/books/walt-whitman-promoted-a-paleo-diet-who-knew.html?mcubz=3\">the great American evil\u003c/a>\") gave Kellogg's clean eating a toehold in the wider culture, as the sanitarium drew guests such as women's and civil rights activist Sojourner Truth, pilot Amelia Earhart and \u003cem>Tarzan\u003c/em> actor Johnny Weismuller. In addition to health treatments, guests dined on then-revolutionary dishes like those containing soy milk or probiotics, flaked whole grain cereals ... and mock meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The doctor, as part of his own research, had a food lab,\" explains Markel. He, his wife, and his brother began to experiment with nut-based mock meats. And, according to the notebooks, there were \u003cem>a lot\u003c/em> of experiments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It didn't hold together, or there wasn't enough gluten, or they found boiling them at too high a temperature made them taste acrid or sour. Sometimes they even measured barometric pressure,\" laughs Markel. \"Like Edison, that's classic 19th century invention — you just try a million things until it worked. John Harvey Kellogg was exactly that type of inventor, but his lab was a kitchen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all this tinkering, the Kelloggs came out with mock meats formed from a mix of nuts and gluten. Their first success was Protose — Kellogg claimed that the product \"resembles potted veal or chicken. It has a distinctly meaty odor and flavor. When a bit is torn off and chewed, it shows a distinct fiber. It is of such consistency that it may be masticated like tender meat and when cooked retains its form as does meat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This may have been a bit of an exaggeration — by all accounts, Protose tastes like, well, peanuts. And gluten. But it was protein-filled (or, to use the parlance of the time, blood-building), palatable, and, most importantly, had a monopoly in the mock-meat market. Kellogg served it to guests, and also sold cans via mail order — Markel estimates that at their height, annual sales of mock meat totaled over one million dollars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To boost popularity, Battle Creek produced recipe catalogues explaining how to make a delicious mushroom gravy for Protose, or to serve it to taste just like veal or chicken. Later products included veggie hot dogs, as well as \"skallops\" and other mock meats — although, Markel notes, \"They were all made out of the same thing, just shaped differently. There are only so many nuts, and so many things you can do with gluten.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other products followed suit in that era, mostly also from Adventist-affiliated corporations following a similar model of canned mock meat. For a while, that was pretty much the entirety of the mock-meat industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The new vegetarian movement\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.earthandtablelawreporter.com/about/\">Paul Swanson\u003c/a>, an intellectual property litigator with a special interest in food, dug into \u003ca href=\"http://www.earthandtablelawreporter.com/2016/06/20/patenting-the-quest-for-a-more-perfect-veggie-burger/\">patent history\u003c/a> to track the evolution of veggie burgers. After the initial spate of Protose-inspired mock-meat development, he says, the scene was fairly quiet (save for the mid-century development of Bac-O Bits, which are arguably more of a salad condiment than full-fledged meat substitute). But then, as the natural foods movement, countercultural resistance and other social movements took hold, eating habits similarly began to change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You go into the 70s, and there's a newfound movement for vegetarianism,\" Swanson observes. \"You then have the second wave of innovation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Products like \u003ca href=\"http://www.gardenburger.com/\">Gardenburger\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.kraftheinz-foodservice.com/en/productsandbrands/meats/boca/products\">Boca Burger\u003c/a> were developed, and began to spread across the country. These veggie patties not only tasted better than their turn-of-the-century forebears — they also ditched the cans, showing up in the freezer section.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Product placement is really important — if they want to be thought of as fresh, there's a psychology thing going on,\" acknowledges Swanson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While these patties were sold closer to the frozen beef burgers, the second wave of mock meat was still mostly for vegetarians, or those steering clear of saturated fats (these were the days before Meatless Mondays.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But on today's grills, we'll find something that's more like a third wave of veggie burgers, engineered to be more like meat than could have been conceived in the basement health-food stores of the 1980s (or the Kellogg labs of a century prior). According to Swanson, the novelty is no longer in the processing, but in the materials themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The recent patents are more about the composition. Things that \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/02/11/514544431/saving-the-planet-one-burger-at-a-time-this-juicy-patty-is-meat-free\">bleed\u003c/a> ... they're doing so much work tearing apart and putting together plant matter.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike the early religiously affiliated mock-meat producers, or the second-wave countercultural companies like Oregon's Gardenburger, some of these third-wave veggie burger makers (unsurprisingly) come out of Silicon Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The vegetarians (or omnivores) who toss a veggie burger on the grill this weekend may be looking for a modern \"disruption\" of the meat industry — either for health, environmental or ethical concerns. Or they might just be wanting a delicious summer cookout. And they can achieve their tasty goal with a just-developed can't-believe-it's-not-meat creation, or the current iteration of the classic second-wave burgers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although sadly, not with Protose — the last cans stopped production after just about a century. But thanks to those pioneers, the modern-day bearers of the mock-meat torch can be found at pretty much any neighborhood grocery store.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Deena Prichep is a freelance print and radio journalist based in Portland, Ore.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Aquaponics Farmers Band Together to Set Their Industry Apart",
"title": "Aquaponics Farmers Band Together to Set Their Industry Apart",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Growers that add fish to their vegetable mix say they're combining the benefits of an ecosystem with the resource-efficiency of an water-based operation.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kimberly Aney, a recent graduate of the agriculture program at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cobleskill.edu/home.asp\">SUNY Cobleskill\u003c/a> in Upstate New York, has dreams of building a small farm that grows fish and lettuce in concert with one another. She says she sees the practice, known as aquaponics, as a cheap, clean, and compact alternative to the inefficiencies she observed on the dairy farm on which she grew up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In southern Oregon, Michael Hasey extends the growing season of his 40-acre organic farm with an aquaponics system that produces greens and tilapia throughout the winter. It’s a way to squeak out an extra margin, rest his fields, and, he believes, improve both his own soil and the environment at large.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, in New Orleans, Marianne Cufone uses her in-ground aquaponics system—in which ponds full of fish provide nutrients for the trays of herbs, cucumbers, and melons floating above them, and vice versa—partly as an educational tool. She wants more people to know about the myriad benefits she’s reaped while farming this way: about the hyper-local crops, the reliable fresh food in flood-prone regions, and the minimal waste inherent in the system.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120330\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 768px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668.jpg\" alt=\"Diagram courtesy of Aquaponics Phillipines.\" width=\"768\" height=\"668\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120330\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668-160x139.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668-240x209.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668-375x326.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668-520x452.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Diagram courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://aquaponicsphilippines.com/\">Aquaponics Phillipines.\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Unlike modern hydroponic farms, which can feed plants regular quantities of synthetic fertilizers, aquaponics harks back to early growing methods developed in Asia and South America that blend aquaculture (or fish farming) with agriculture. The practice functions in an ecosystem in which the fish eat things like duckweed and, when they’re housed outside, insects; their waste feeds the plants; and the plants filter the water for the fish. Any remaining waste is composted and, as in the case of Hasey’s farm, added back to the soil in which he grows his row crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cufone also has a larger goal. What began as a community-based mission has expanded into a national effort as she seeks to drum up awareness about aquaponic farming in her role as executive director of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.recirculatingfarms.org/\">Recirculating Farms Coalition\u003c/a> (RFC), and to mobilize other farmers using the technology to become more vocal about its virtues and its future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, though, she has to find them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120331\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone.jpg\" alt=\"Marianne Cufone.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120331\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marianne Cufone. \u003ccite>(Dulce Fernandes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Even though [aquaponic farmers] have been operating in the U.S. for more than 30 years, we don’t have a good count,” Cufone says. That applies both to commercial operations such as Hasey’s that sell to regional supermarkets and also to backyard, or “recreational,” farms like the one Aney would like to set up. The latter are especially difficult to track. RFC wants to see aquaculture acknowledged as a positive addition to American agriculture and thereby boost its lobbying power. Haney, an RFC member, calls aquaponics, “the answer” to generating year-round income for farmers constrained by the seasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cufone is currently working on a map of the larger outfits, and reaching out to organizations that keep track of the smaller ones. So far, estimates put the number of commercial aquafarms operating nationally at between 40 and 100, although Cufone says it’s likely higher if one includes backyard operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cufone’s work comes at a critical juncture for American aquaculture. For over a decade, the USDA Organic label, through some third-party licensing organizations like Oregon Tilth, has been conferred upon compliant aquaponic and hydroponic farms. Recently, traditional “dirt first” organic farmers have been pushing the USDA’s National Organic Standards Board (NOSB) to make aquaponics and hydroponics ineligible for the Organic label.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some opposed to the change, \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2015/04/13/why-you-cant-have-organic-food-without-soil/\">such as Maine farmer and author Eliot Coleman\u003c/a>, say that food that isn’t grown in “biologically active, fertile soil” doesn’t deserve to use the moniker for which generations of farmers have built up a market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the biggest targets of some dirt-first lobbyists is scaled-up operations that raise hydroponic produce in places like Mexico. They say these vast international operations siphon off revenue from American farmers as they drive down the price of organics. Aquaponic farmers, who claim to use best organic practices and challenge the assertion that their farms do not give back directly to the soil, may be caught in the crossfire of a bigger, thornier debate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Aquaponic farmers employ microbiology in their systems, in the same way dirt farmers do, and the waste [from it] builds beautiful topsoil,” says Hasey. In the process, “We grow copious amounts of food without taxing the land. It’s incredibly sustainable.” Sustainability is also Cufone’s virtue of choice when discussing aquaponics—both for lowering water and energy usage in produce growing as well as for raising fish. Cufone began her career in fisheries management and has seen aquaponics develop to the point where she thinks it now provides a viable, clean way for fishermen to grow some of the protein they can no longer catch in \u003ca href=\"https://www.ecowatch.com/one-third-of-commercial-fish-stocks-fished-at-unsustainable-levels-1910593830.html\">depleted oceans\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stacy Tollefson is a professor of agricultural and biosystems engineering at the University of Arizona. Along with Cufone, she was part of the most recent task force advising NOSB on the organic certification of aquaponic and hydroponic farms. The way she sees it, what organics-seeking consumers want most of all is pesticide-free produce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And water-based systems “open the doors to more people getting access to that,” she says. “The traditional agriculture approach says organics have to be grown in soil—but that was when there was no other way to do it. There are still old-school philosophical folks who say, ‘You’re not saving the soil!’ But I think we are doing a lot to \u003cem>not\u003c/em> damage the earth.” (The dirt first response to this: That still doesn’t mean it fits the historical definition of \u003cem>organic\u003c/em>; they’re contemplating changing their own labeling if hydroponic and aquaponic farmers continue to be able to earn “organic” status.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cufone agrees with Tollefson, and also cites what she sees as another overlooked benefit to aquaponics. “The U.S. Department of Agriculture is always talking about attracting new people to farming. Well, this is one part of the industry that’s growing,” she says. She hopes RFC will play a pivotal role in bringing aquaponics further into the mainstream. “When I first learned about recirculating systems, I brought a bunch of people together in a room and had a conversation about the viability of the industry. At the end of two days I asked, ‘If you had $1 million, what would you do?’ And every one of them said, ‘Start an organization that would advertise our industry, and help change policy about it.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the six years since RFC was founded, Hasey has come to rely on it to represent him and his needs. “As a farmer, I spend all day with my head in the plants. I just don’t have time to go out and campaign and get involved in issues,” he says. Both he and Cufone hope the organization will provide their segment of the farm industry with the necessary traction to grow, and thrive.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Growers that add fish to their vegetable mix say they're combining the benefits of an ecosystem with the resource-efficiency of an water-based operation.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kimberly Aney, a recent graduate of the agriculture program at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cobleskill.edu/home.asp\">SUNY Cobleskill\u003c/a> in Upstate New York, has dreams of building a small farm that grows fish and lettuce in concert with one another. She says she sees the practice, known as aquaponics, as a cheap, clean, and compact alternative to the inefficiencies she observed on the dairy farm on which she grew up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In southern Oregon, Michael Hasey extends the growing season of his 40-acre organic farm with an aquaponics system that produces greens and tilapia throughout the winter. It’s a way to squeak out an extra margin, rest his fields, and, he believes, improve both his own soil and the environment at large.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, in New Orleans, Marianne Cufone uses her in-ground aquaponics system—in which ponds full of fish provide nutrients for the trays of herbs, cucumbers, and melons floating above them, and vice versa—partly as an educational tool. She wants more people to know about the myriad benefits she’s reaped while farming this way: about the hyper-local crops, the reliable fresh food in flood-prone regions, and the minimal waste inherent in the system.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120330\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 768px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668.jpg\" alt=\"Diagram courtesy of Aquaponics Phillipines.\" width=\"768\" height=\"668\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120330\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668-160x139.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668-240x209.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668-375x326.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668-520x452.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Diagram courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://aquaponicsphilippines.com/\">Aquaponics Phillipines.\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Unlike modern hydroponic farms, which can feed plants regular quantities of synthetic fertilizers, aquaponics harks back to early growing methods developed in Asia and South America that blend aquaculture (or fish farming) with agriculture. The practice functions in an ecosystem in which the fish eat things like duckweed and, when they’re housed outside, insects; their waste feeds the plants; and the plants filter the water for the fish. Any remaining waste is composted and, as in the case of Hasey’s farm, added back to the soil in which he grows his row crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cufone also has a larger goal. What began as a community-based mission has expanded into a national effort as she seeks to drum up awareness about aquaponic farming in her role as executive director of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.recirculatingfarms.org/\">Recirculating Farms Coalition\u003c/a> (RFC), and to mobilize other farmers using the technology to become more vocal about its virtues and its future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, though, she has to find them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120331\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone.jpg\" alt=\"Marianne Cufone.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120331\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marianne Cufone. \u003ccite>(Dulce Fernandes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Even though [aquaponic farmers] have been operating in the U.S. for more than 30 years, we don’t have a good count,” Cufone says. That applies both to commercial operations such as Hasey’s that sell to regional supermarkets and also to backyard, or “recreational,” farms like the one Aney would like to set up. The latter are especially difficult to track. RFC wants to see aquaculture acknowledged as a positive addition to American agriculture and thereby boost its lobbying power. Haney, an RFC member, calls aquaponics, “the answer” to generating year-round income for farmers constrained by the seasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cufone is currently working on a map of the larger outfits, and reaching out to organizations that keep track of the smaller ones. So far, estimates put the number of commercial aquafarms operating nationally at between 40 and 100, although Cufone says it’s likely higher if one includes backyard operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cufone’s work comes at a critical juncture for American aquaculture. For over a decade, the USDA Organic label, through some third-party licensing organizations like Oregon Tilth, has been conferred upon compliant aquaponic and hydroponic farms. Recently, traditional “dirt first” organic farmers have been pushing the USDA’s National Organic Standards Board (NOSB) to make aquaponics and hydroponics ineligible for the Organic label.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some opposed to the change, \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2015/04/13/why-you-cant-have-organic-food-without-soil/\">such as Maine farmer and author Eliot Coleman\u003c/a>, say that food that isn’t grown in “biologically active, fertile soil” doesn’t deserve to use the moniker for which generations of farmers have built up a market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the biggest targets of some dirt-first lobbyists is scaled-up operations that raise hydroponic produce in places like Mexico. They say these vast international operations siphon off revenue from American farmers as they drive down the price of organics. Aquaponic farmers, who claim to use best organic practices and challenge the assertion that their farms do not give back directly to the soil, may be caught in the crossfire of a bigger, thornier debate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Aquaponic farmers employ microbiology in their systems, in the same way dirt farmers do, and the waste [from it] builds beautiful topsoil,” says Hasey. In the process, “We grow copious amounts of food without taxing the land. It’s incredibly sustainable.” Sustainability is also Cufone’s virtue of choice when discussing aquaponics—both for lowering water and energy usage in produce growing as well as for raising fish. Cufone began her career in fisheries management and has seen aquaponics develop to the point where she thinks it now provides a viable, clean way for fishermen to grow some of the protein they can no longer catch in \u003ca href=\"https://www.ecowatch.com/one-third-of-commercial-fish-stocks-fished-at-unsustainable-levels-1910593830.html\">depleted oceans\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stacy Tollefson is a professor of agricultural and biosystems engineering at the University of Arizona. Along with Cufone, she was part of the most recent task force advising NOSB on the organic certification of aquaponic and hydroponic farms. The way she sees it, what organics-seeking consumers want most of all is pesticide-free produce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And water-based systems “open the doors to more people getting access to that,” she says. “The traditional agriculture approach says organics have to be grown in soil—but that was when there was no other way to do it. There are still old-school philosophical folks who say, ‘You’re not saving the soil!’ But I think we are doing a lot to \u003cem>not\u003c/em> damage the earth.” (The dirt first response to this: That still doesn’t mean it fits the historical definition of \u003cem>organic\u003c/em>; they’re contemplating changing their own labeling if hydroponic and aquaponic farmers continue to be able to earn “organic” status.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cufone agrees with Tollefson, and also cites what she sees as another overlooked benefit to aquaponics. “The U.S. Department of Agriculture is always talking about attracting new people to farming. Well, this is one part of the industry that’s growing,” she says. She hopes RFC will play a pivotal role in bringing aquaponics further into the mainstream. “When I first learned about recirculating systems, I brought a bunch of people together in a room and had a conversation about the viability of the industry. At the end of two days I asked, ‘If you had $1 million, what would you do?’ And every one of them said, ‘Start an organization that would advertise our industry, and help change policy about it.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the six years since RFC was founded, Hasey has come to rely on it to represent him and his needs. “As a farmer, I spend all day with my head in the plants. I just don’t have time to go out and campaign and get involved in issues,” he says. Both he and Cufone hope the organization will provide their segment of the farm industry with the necessary traction to grow, and thrive.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Laser Pointers And Hand Signals: A Deaf Chef In The Kitchen",
"title": "Laser Pointers And Hand Signals: A Deaf Chef In The Kitchen",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Amid the hustle and bustle of the kitchen at Marcel's, a fine dining restaurant in Washington, D.C., one member of the staff is immune to the noise. It's David Uzzell, the 28-year-old \u003cem>saucier\u003c/em> responsible for such delicacies as pan-seared foie gras or mushroom mornay sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Uzzell is a deaf chef — a rarity in the vast majority of restaurant kitchens. When chef and owner Robert Wiedmaier needs to get Uzzell's attention while expediting during dinner service, he pokes him in the shoulder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"David gets poked a lot,\" says Wiedmaier. \"There might be a dent in his shoulder from my finger by now.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not all poking, according to Uzzell. \"We've come up with some workarounds,\" he says — or writes, using one of the many notepads that are permanently kept at his station to help with more lengthy communications. Having completely lost his hearing by the time he was a year old, Uzzell is used to having to figure out how to communicate to a hearing audience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I've never seen somebody text so fast,\" says Wiedmaier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being hard of hearing in a busy restaurant kitchen means that Uzzell's coworkers have come up with a variety of ways to get his attention over the past few years, from laser pointers to elaborate hand signals. At the same time, Uzzell is now such a fixture in the \u003cem>brigade de cuisine\u003c/em> — the French term for the hierarchy of kitchen staff — that they sometimes forget that he's deaf at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, sous chef Chris McFayden has a tendency to just talk extra loudly to Uzzell, which the kitchen staff finds amusing — as Wiedmaier quips, \"It doesn't matter how loud you are, he still can't hear you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Uzzell's part, whether or not he can hear McFayden yelling is less about the noise and more about the lesson. \"You have to develop a thick skin,\" he says of working in a restaurant kitchen. \"You can't take criticism personally. It's not about whether or not I'm deaf.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In a kitchen,\" says McFayden, \"everybody tends to learn when the chef yells at somebody else for a mistake. With David, I have to remember that he's not going to hear me telling someone that they did something wrong; I'm going to have to make a point to make sure he knows.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After graduating in 2012 from Gallaudet University, a private university for the deaf and hard of hearing in Washington, D.C., Uzzell had a degree in history but no actual work history to help him to find a job. It's a common problem in the deaf community. According to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.nationaldeafcenter.org/deaf-people-and-employment-united-states-2016\">2016 study\u003c/a> by the National Deaf Center, just 48 percent of deaf Americans, aged 21 to 64, is employed, either full or part time, as compared to 72 percent of the hearing population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A friend recommended that Uzzell look for work at Union Market, a popular upscale food court near Gallaudet, whose vendors catered to the nearby deaf community. Starting off as a dishwasher and working his way up through the ranks in a few professional kitchens, Uzzell arrived at Marcel's in 2014 looking for new opportunities. The fact that he was hard of hearing was not a hindrance as far as Wiedmaier was concerned, since he'd already previously employed a deaf chef at another restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bottom line, says Wiedmaier, \"I couldn't have hired David if he had no taste or sense of smell. Being deaf hasn't stopped him from being a damn good chef.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A combination of lip reading, writing, and hand signals has become de rigueur in the kitchen at Marcel's — but it's not always foolproof.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I first started,\" recalls Uzzell, \"there were a few times when I thought Chef was asking for 'sea salt' when he was asking for 'Dijon.' The words lip-read very similarly.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McFayden's predecessor employed a laser pointer, aiming it on the counter at Uzzell's work station to alert him about new orders. In order to help communication run smoothly within the brigade, learning — and even inventing — a certain amount of sign language has become necessary to help convey the subtleties of cooking techniques.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Sometimes there's just not a sign that explains something very specific,\" says McFayden. \"When David worked at the roast station, that was trickier because there are different temperatures for the meats, like squab, elk, or bison, and timing becomes very important. So we created our own sign language, just for our kitchen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Deaf people do have the deck stacked against them — we have to deal with a lot of factors,\" says Uzzell. \"I've been fortunate to be in a supportive and inclusive environment.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While being deaf in a hearing world is a challenge, Uzzell thinks that not being distracted by the noise around him in the kitchen can be a plus, allowing him to concentrate on the minute details that are crucial to presenting a perfectly prepared dish. Says Wiedmaier, \"He has a laser focus on his tasks.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in the kitchen at Marcel's, the staff loves to joke about the time a new cook was working on the line and couldn't get an order right, no matter how many times McFayden called it out, leading the sous chef to finally yell in exasperation, \"We've got a deaf guy that hears better than you!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While a few restaurants have been highlighted in recent years for hiring deaf employees, notably \u003ca href=\"https://www.fastcompany.com/3043126/inside-san-franciscos-deaf-owned-and-operated-pizzeria\">Mozzaria\u003c/a> in San Francisco — which is also deaf-owned — and \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtoncitypaper.com/food/article/20864298/fare-well-accommodates-way-more-than-vegan-diners\">Fare Well\u003c/a> in Washington, D.C., it still remains a tough job for the deaf to land. For Wiedmaier's part, having Uzzell on staff offers a model that he thinks other employers should take note of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's important that we do this as a society,\" he says, about providing work for people with disabilities. \"In my 45 years in the business, I've only had two deaf chefs, but that's two more than most other restaurants have ever had. It's a bit challenging, but it's also worth the challenge. David has become so integrated in our kitchen that we honestly forget that he's deaf; we've all adapted to each other to function as a team.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Uzzell agrees, suggesting that employers be willing to think outside the box when it comes to communication, in order to help the deaf integrate into the workplace. \"Don't be afraid to hire us,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, Uzzell is focused on helping Marcel's gain a coveted Michelin star, but he still has some advice for those in the deaf community looking to land a job in a restaurant kitchen: \"Bust ass, work hard, and keep your knives sharp.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://kristenhartke.com\">Kristen Hartke\u003c/a>\u003cem> is a food writer based in Washington, D.C.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "David Uzzell is deaf and works as a chef at a Washington, D.C., restaurant. Being deaf makes communication in the kitchen challenging. But Uzzell's colleagues have come up with some workarounds.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Amid the hustle and bustle of the kitchen at Marcel's, a fine dining restaurant in Washington, D.C., one member of the staff is immune to the noise. It's David Uzzell, the 28-year-old \u003cem>saucier\u003c/em> responsible for such delicacies as pan-seared foie gras or mushroom mornay sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Uzzell is a deaf chef — a rarity in the vast majority of restaurant kitchens. When chef and owner Robert Wiedmaier needs to get Uzzell's attention while expediting during dinner service, he pokes him in the shoulder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"David gets poked a lot,\" says Wiedmaier. \"There might be a dent in his shoulder from my finger by now.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not all poking, according to Uzzell. \"We've come up with some workarounds,\" he says — or writes, using one of the many notepads that are permanently kept at his station to help with more lengthy communications. Having completely lost his hearing by the time he was a year old, Uzzell is used to having to figure out how to communicate to a hearing audience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I've never seen somebody text so fast,\" says Wiedmaier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being hard of hearing in a busy restaurant kitchen means that Uzzell's coworkers have come up with a variety of ways to get his attention over the past few years, from laser pointers to elaborate hand signals. At the same time, Uzzell is now such a fixture in the \u003cem>brigade de cuisine\u003c/em> — the French term for the hierarchy of kitchen staff — that they sometimes forget that he's deaf at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, sous chef Chris McFayden has a tendency to just talk extra loudly to Uzzell, which the kitchen staff finds amusing — as Wiedmaier quips, \"It doesn't matter how loud you are, he still can't hear you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Uzzell's part, whether or not he can hear McFayden yelling is less about the noise and more about the lesson. \"You have to develop a thick skin,\" he says of working in a restaurant kitchen. \"You can't take criticism personally. It's not about whether or not I'm deaf.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In a kitchen,\" says McFayden, \"everybody tends to learn when the chef yells at somebody else for a mistake. With David, I have to remember that he's not going to hear me telling someone that they did something wrong; I'm going to have to make a point to make sure he knows.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After graduating in 2012 from Gallaudet University, a private university for the deaf and hard of hearing in Washington, D.C., Uzzell had a degree in history but no actual work history to help him to find a job. It's a common problem in the deaf community. According to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.nationaldeafcenter.org/deaf-people-and-employment-united-states-2016\">2016 study\u003c/a> by the National Deaf Center, just 48 percent of deaf Americans, aged 21 to 64, is employed, either full or part time, as compared to 72 percent of the hearing population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A friend recommended that Uzzell look for work at Union Market, a popular upscale food court near Gallaudet, whose vendors catered to the nearby deaf community. Starting off as a dishwasher and working his way up through the ranks in a few professional kitchens, Uzzell arrived at Marcel's in 2014 looking for new opportunities. The fact that he was hard of hearing was not a hindrance as far as Wiedmaier was concerned, since he'd already previously employed a deaf chef at another restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bottom line, says Wiedmaier, \"I couldn't have hired David if he had no taste or sense of smell. Being deaf hasn't stopped him from being a damn good chef.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A combination of lip reading, writing, and hand signals has become de rigueur in the kitchen at Marcel's — but it's not always foolproof.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I first started,\" recalls Uzzell, \"there were a few times when I thought Chef was asking for 'sea salt' when he was asking for 'Dijon.' The words lip-read very similarly.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McFayden's predecessor employed a laser pointer, aiming it on the counter at Uzzell's work station to alert him about new orders. In order to help communication run smoothly within the brigade, learning — and even inventing — a certain amount of sign language has become necessary to help convey the subtleties of cooking techniques.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Sometimes there's just not a sign that explains something very specific,\" says McFayden. \"When David worked at the roast station, that was trickier because there are different temperatures for the meats, like squab, elk, or bison, and timing becomes very important. So we created our own sign language, just for our kitchen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Deaf people do have the deck stacked against them — we have to deal with a lot of factors,\" says Uzzell. \"I've been fortunate to be in a supportive and inclusive environment.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While being deaf in a hearing world is a challenge, Uzzell thinks that not being distracted by the noise around him in the kitchen can be a plus, allowing him to concentrate on the minute details that are crucial to presenting a perfectly prepared dish. Says Wiedmaier, \"He has a laser focus on his tasks.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in the kitchen at Marcel's, the staff loves to joke about the time a new cook was working on the line and couldn't get an order right, no matter how many times McFayden called it out, leading the sous chef to finally yell in exasperation, \"We've got a deaf guy that hears better than you!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While a few restaurants have been highlighted in recent years for hiring deaf employees, notably \u003ca href=\"https://www.fastcompany.com/3043126/inside-san-franciscos-deaf-owned-and-operated-pizzeria\">Mozzaria\u003c/a> in San Francisco — which is also deaf-owned — and \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtoncitypaper.com/food/article/20864298/fare-well-accommodates-way-more-than-vegan-diners\">Fare Well\u003c/a> in Washington, D.C., it still remains a tough job for the deaf to land. For Wiedmaier's part, having Uzzell on staff offers a model that he thinks other employers should take note of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's important that we do this as a society,\" he says, about providing work for people with disabilities. \"In my 45 years in the business, I've only had two deaf chefs, but that's two more than most other restaurants have ever had. It's a bit challenging, but it's also worth the challenge. David has become so integrated in our kitchen that we honestly forget that he's deaf; we've all adapted to each other to function as a team.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Uzzell agrees, suggesting that employers be willing to think outside the box when it comes to communication, in order to help the deaf integrate into the workplace. \"Don't be afraid to hire us,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, Uzzell is focused on helping Marcel's gain a coveted Michelin star, but he still has some advice for those in the deaf community looking to land a job in a restaurant kitchen: \"Bust ass, work hard, and keep your knives sharp.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://kristenhartke.com\">Kristen Hartke\u003c/a>\u003cem> is a food writer based in Washington, D.C.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Would You Drink A Cannabis Cocktail?",
"title": "Would You Drink A Cannabis Cocktail?",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>In the Bay Area, you can consume marijuana in just about any form: high-end vape pen! Gummy bears! \u003ca href=\"http://www.7x7.com/new-marijuana-infused-cold-brew-uses-ritual-coffee-beans-2219330114.html\">Cold brew\u003c/a>! Now, a few enterprising chefs want to popularize the drug in a new form: cocktails.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The combination of marijuana and alcohol is a common enough occurrence, but you’re not likely to find many people who would recommend it. In small amounts, they’re both relatively safe. But when the two drugs are combined, they can \u003ca href=\"https://tonic.vice.com/en_us/article/aey385/what-mixing-weed-and-alcohol-does-to-your-mind\">exacerbate the effects\u003c/a> of each other, making you drunker or more high than you want to be--a danger that anybody who's gotten “crossfaded” after two many keg stands and bong rips at a college rager can attest to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But with the popularity of medical marijuana and the ability to know exactly the strain and strength of the weed you’re buying, there’s now room to take a more controlled approach. Bartenders can easily find out what a particular type of marijuana will taste like (“heavy on the blueberry”) if it’s an indica or sativa, and what effect it’s supposed to leave you with (“great to melt away stress and anxiety.”) By incorporating just a few drops of a cannabis tincture into your cocktail shaker, proponents say that you can enjoy some of the advantages of cannabis while sipping on your next cocktail.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s what Payton Curry wants to offer. He’s a chef that left the world of fine dining to focus on promoting the positive, medicinal aspects of cannabis via what he does best: cooking. At a series of August dinners, Curry, who now runs the edibles company \u003ca href=\"http://flourishcannabis.com/\">Flourish\u003c/a>, offered diners a menu of his cannabis cuisine, featuring dishes like beet tartare and maitake steaks with red wine reduction--and cocktails like a rosemary blueberry smash. (The drinks will also be available at Folsom Street Fair, and he’s planning a monthly brunch featuring similar recipes.) Curry is evangelical about cannabis’ potential, and he wants people to start thinking of it as just another exciting ingredient.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120219\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120219\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4.jpg\" alt=\"The preparation of one of Payton Curry's cannabis cocktails.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1376\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4-160x115.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4-800x573.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4-768x550.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4-1020x731.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4-1180x846.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4-960x688.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4-240x172.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4-375x269.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4-520x373.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The preparation of one of Payton Curry's cannabis cocktails. \u003ccite>(Carla Venini)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But just how much cannabis can you get from a cannabis cocktail? Does the toxicity of alcohol cancel out any positive effects you might get from your Bloody Mary Jane (another one of Curry’s specialties)? And most importantly, do the drinks taste like bong water?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Oh, god no. Oh man,” Curry said with a laugh. He uses distilled forms of cannabis, which lack the distinctive dankness you experience if you’re smoking the plant. However, they do maintain some of their smelly characteristics, so Curry can decide how to take advantage of the citrus notes of, say, \u003ca href=\"https://www.leafly.com/hybrid/lemon-kush\">a Lemon Kush\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for health claims, he thinks that the benefits of the CBD strains he incorporates into his low alcohol cocktails (\u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/national/health-science/a-powerful-new-form-of-medical-marijuana-without-the-high/2016/12/29/81bbf7c0-b5b2-11e6-b8df-600bd9d38a02_story.html\">marijuana high in the cannabinoid CBD \u003c/a>doesn’t give a “high” effect, and people use it to treat issues like depression and insomnia) can help offset some of alcohol's deleterious effects. He’s had people write him thank you notes describing the amazing sleep and vivid dreams they had after one of his dinners: “When do you dream when you’ve had alcohol?” he asked. “You don't. You just go to bed and you conk out.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120217\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120217\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2.jpg\" alt=\"CBD cocktails from Flore in the Castro.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">CBD cocktails from Flore in the Castro. \u003ccite>(Flore)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Terrance Alan and Aaron Silverman, co-owners of the Castro’s \u003ca href=\"http://flore415.com/\">Flore\u003c/a>, are also experimenting with cannabis cocktails. About a month ago, they added a menu of CBD infused cocktails, mocktails and beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re working at the Flore to create the first cannabis restaurant in San Francisco, where cannabis is integrated into the dining experience in any way that will be appropriate,” Alan said. They can’t make any medical claims about their drinks, but he said that the customer response has been positive. “Some people have said, ‘I had that bunch of beers and usually I would get up in the morning and not feel very good, and I woke up and felt great.’ During the experience of drinking the cocktails or the CBD beer, what we found was that the mental change that happens when you drink alcohol is moderated and affected by the CBD.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alan also pointed out that the drinks have a special significance for the neighborhood-- their drinks wouldn’t exist if it weren’t for \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dennis_Peron\">Dennis Peron\u003c/a>, who started the long fight for legal medical marijuana in the nineties by providing it to AIDs patients at his “Castro Castle.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Curry, his cannabis cocktails are a Trojan horse. In his opinion, drinking can be a more dangerous social activity than consuming marijuana. He wants to do his part to show that weed can provide the same social function as alcohol, and even offer some added health benefits. But to do that, he has to meet people where they are, with a cocktail in hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The biggest thing that [drinkers] are getting is the opportunity to socialize [with] cannabis,” he said. “And they’re talking and they’re laughing and they’re still doing the same things that they would be doing if they were holding a $47 glass of Chenin blanc.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People weren't getting weird,” he added. “No one smoked. Because it’s about dinner--it’s cocktails and dinner.”\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "You’ve tried vape pens and gummy bears. Now, local bartenders want to add some bud to your buzz.\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In the Bay Area, you can consume marijuana in just about any form: high-end vape pen! Gummy bears! \u003ca href=\"http://www.7x7.com/new-marijuana-infused-cold-brew-uses-ritual-coffee-beans-2219330114.html\">Cold brew\u003c/a>! Now, a few enterprising chefs want to popularize the drug in a new form: cocktails.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The combination of marijuana and alcohol is a common enough occurrence, but you’re not likely to find many people who would recommend it. In small amounts, they’re both relatively safe. But when the two drugs are combined, they can \u003ca href=\"https://tonic.vice.com/en_us/article/aey385/what-mixing-weed-and-alcohol-does-to-your-mind\">exacerbate the effects\u003c/a> of each other, making you drunker or more high than you want to be--a danger that anybody who's gotten “crossfaded” after two many keg stands and bong rips at a college rager can attest to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But with the popularity of medical marijuana and the ability to know exactly the strain and strength of the weed you’re buying, there’s now room to take a more controlled approach. Bartenders can easily find out what a particular type of marijuana will taste like (“heavy on the blueberry”) if it’s an indica or sativa, and what effect it’s supposed to leave you with (“great to melt away stress and anxiety.”) By incorporating just a few drops of a cannabis tincture into your cocktail shaker, proponents say that you can enjoy some of the advantages of cannabis while sipping on your next cocktail.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s what Payton Curry wants to offer. He’s a chef that left the world of fine dining to focus on promoting the positive, medicinal aspects of cannabis via what he does best: cooking. At a series of August dinners, Curry, who now runs the edibles company \u003ca href=\"http://flourishcannabis.com/\">Flourish\u003c/a>, offered diners a menu of his cannabis cuisine, featuring dishes like beet tartare and maitake steaks with red wine reduction--and cocktails like a rosemary blueberry smash. (The drinks will also be available at Folsom Street Fair, and he’s planning a monthly brunch featuring similar recipes.) Curry is evangelical about cannabis’ potential, and he wants people to start thinking of it as just another exciting ingredient.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120219\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120219\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4.jpg\" alt=\"The preparation of one of Payton Curry's cannabis cocktails.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1376\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4-160x115.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4-800x573.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4-768x550.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4-1020x731.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4-1180x846.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4-960x688.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4-240x172.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4-375x269.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited4-520x373.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The preparation of one of Payton Curry's cannabis cocktails. \u003ccite>(Carla Venini)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But just how much cannabis can you get from a cannabis cocktail? Does the toxicity of alcohol cancel out any positive effects you might get from your Bloody Mary Jane (another one of Curry’s specialties)? And most importantly, do the drinks taste like bong water?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Oh, god no. Oh man,” Curry said with a laugh. He uses distilled forms of cannabis, which lack the distinctive dankness you experience if you’re smoking the plant. However, they do maintain some of their smelly characteristics, so Curry can decide how to take advantage of the citrus notes of, say, \u003ca href=\"https://www.leafly.com/hybrid/lemon-kush\">a Lemon Kush\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for health claims, he thinks that the benefits of the CBD strains he incorporates into his low alcohol cocktails (\u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/national/health-science/a-powerful-new-form-of-medical-marijuana-without-the-high/2016/12/29/81bbf7c0-b5b2-11e6-b8df-600bd9d38a02_story.html\">marijuana high in the cannabinoid CBD \u003c/a>doesn’t give a “high” effect, and people use it to treat issues like depression and insomnia) can help offset some of alcohol's deleterious effects. He’s had people write him thank you notes describing the amazing sleep and vivid dreams they had after one of his dinners: “When do you dream when you’ve had alcohol?” he asked. “You don't. You just go to bed and you conk out.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120217\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120217\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2.jpg\" alt=\"CBD cocktails from Flore in the Castro.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/edited2-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">CBD cocktails from Flore in the Castro. \u003ccite>(Flore)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Terrance Alan and Aaron Silverman, co-owners of the Castro’s \u003ca href=\"http://flore415.com/\">Flore\u003c/a>, are also experimenting with cannabis cocktails. About a month ago, they added a menu of CBD infused cocktails, mocktails and beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re working at the Flore to create the first cannabis restaurant in San Francisco, where cannabis is integrated into the dining experience in any way that will be appropriate,” Alan said. They can’t make any medical claims about their drinks, but he said that the customer response has been positive. “Some people have said, ‘I had that bunch of beers and usually I would get up in the morning and not feel very good, and I woke up and felt great.’ During the experience of drinking the cocktails or the CBD beer, what we found was that the mental change that happens when you drink alcohol is moderated and affected by the CBD.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alan also pointed out that the drinks have a special significance for the neighborhood-- their drinks wouldn’t exist if it weren’t for \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dennis_Peron\">Dennis Peron\u003c/a>, who started the long fight for legal medical marijuana in the nineties by providing it to AIDs patients at his “Castro Castle.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Curry, his cannabis cocktails are a Trojan horse. In his opinion, drinking can be a more dangerous social activity than consuming marijuana. He wants to do his part to show that weed can provide the same social function as alcohol, and even offer some added health benefits. But to do that, he has to meet people where they are, with a cocktail in hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The biggest thing that [drinkers] are getting is the opportunity to socialize [with] cannabis,” he said. “And they’re talking and they’re laughing and they’re still doing the same things that they would be doing if they were holding a $47 glass of Chenin blanc.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People weren't getting weird,” he added. “No one smoked. Because it’s about dinner--it’s cocktails and dinner.”\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"marketplace": {
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"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
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"source": "American Public Media"
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"masters-of-scale": {
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},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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"morning-edition": {
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"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
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"onourwatch": {
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"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"on-the-media": {
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"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/on-the-media",
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},
"pbs-newshour": {
"id": "pbs-newshour",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/pbs-newshour",
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"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/",
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},
"perspectives": {
"id": "perspectives",
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"order": 14
},
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"planet-money": {
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"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
"airtime": "SUN 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/planetmoney.jpg",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/planet-money",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/planet-money/id290783428?mt=2",
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},
"politicalbreakdown": {
"id": "politicalbreakdown",
"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Political-Breakdown-2024-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 5
},
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.possible.fm/",
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"source": "Possible"
},
"link": "/radio/program/possible",
"subscribe": {
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"
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},
"pri-the-world": {
"id": "pri-the-world",
"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 2pm-3pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"source": "PRI"
},
"link": "/radio/program/pri-the-world",
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"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/News--Politics-Podcasts/PRIs-The-World-p24/",
"rss": "http://feeds.feedburner.com/pri/theworld"
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
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"cuisine": {
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"restaurantDataById": {},
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}
