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"bio": "Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen is a longtime local food writer, author, and cook. Her books include The Art of Vintage Cocktails (Egg & Dart Press), World of Doughnuts (Egg & Dart Press); Kids in the Kitchen: Fun Food (Williams Sonoma); Honey from Flower to Table (Chronicle Books) and The Astrology Cookbook: A Cosmic Guide to Feasts of Love (Manic D Press). She has studied organic farming at UCSC and holds a certificate in Ecological Horticulture from the Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems. She does frequent cooking demonstrations at local farmers’ markets and has taught food writing at Media Alliance in San Francisco and the Continuing Education program at Stanford University. She has been the lead restaurant critic for the San Francisco Bay Guardian as well as for San Francisco magazine. She has been an assistant chef at the Headlands Center for the Arts, an artists' residency program located in the Marin Headlands, and a production cook at the Marin Sun Farms Cafe in Pt Reyes Station. After some 20 years in San Francisco interspersed with stints in Oakland, Santa Cruz, Brooklyn, and Manhattan, she recently moved to Sonoma county but still writes in San Francisco several days a week.",
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"bio": "Megan Gordon is originally from Eureka, CA although she's lived in numerous college towns around the country (another story altogether). A freelance food and travel writer, Megan has written for publications like \u003cem>Ready Made Magazine\u003c/em>, \u003cem>The San Francisco Examiner\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Edible SF\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Edible Marin & Wine Country\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Olive Oil Times\u003c/em> and \u003cem>The San Francisco Bay Guardian\u003c/em>. She writes regularly for Apartment Therapy's \u003ca href=\"http://www.thekitchn.com/thekitchn/author/megang\">The Kitchn\u003c/a> and maintains her own local food blog, \u003ca href=\"http://asweetspoonful.com/\">A Sweet Spoonful\u003c/a>. Yes, Megan even tweets \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/meganjanesf\">@meganjanesf\u003c/a>. In addition to writing and photographing food, Megan is the founder (and head baker) of \u003ca href=\"http://www.margebakery.com/\">Marge\u003c/a>, a Bay Area baking company specializing in classic American pies and nostalgic desserts.",
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"bio": "\u003ca href=\"http://www.sarahhenrywriter.com/\">Sarah Henry\u003c/a> hails from Sydney, Australia, where she grew up eating lamingtons, Vegemite, and prawns (not shrimp) on the barbie (barbecue). Sarah has called the Bay Area home for the past two decades and remembers how delighted she was when a modest farmers' market sprouted in downtown San Francisco years ago. As a freelance writer Sarah has covered local food people, places, politics, culture, and news for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Latina-entrepreneurs-share-wealth-knowledge-2693764.php\">San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mercurynews.com/food-wine/ci_21619882/good-eggs-pie-subscriptions-and-seafood-deliveries\">San Jose Mercury News\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://alumni.berkeley.edu/news/california-magazine/fall-2011-good-fight/justice%E2%80%94and-good-grub%E2%80%94-all\">California\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco\">San Francisco\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.diablomag.com/Diablo-Magazine/November-2012/Artisan-Eats/\">Diablo\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/eastbay/fall-2012/school-lunch-20.htm\">Edible East Bay\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/marinandwinecountry/summer-2012-issue-14/getting-wild-at-a-west-marin-supper-club.htm\">Edible Marin & Wine Country\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>. A contributor to the national food policy site \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>, her stories have also appeared in \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/sarah-henry/\">The Atlantic\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.afar.com/highlights/kamal-mouzawaks-beirut-lebanon\">AFAR\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilttaste.com/stories/5207-a-family-tied-together-by-apron-strings\">Gilt Taste\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lhj.com/community/your-stories/whats-for-dinner-dude/?page=1\">Ladies' Home Journal\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://grist.org/author/sarah-henry/\">Grist\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.shareable.net/users/sarah-henry\">Shareable\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/food_news_origins/green_sustainable/host_a_diy_food_swap\">Eating Well\u003c/a>. An epicurean tour guide for \u003ca href=\"http://edibleexcursions.net/\">Edible Excursions\u003c/a>, Sarah is the voice behind the blog \u003ca href=\"http://lettuceeatkale.com/\">Lettuce Eat Kale\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/lettuceeatkale\">tweets\u003c/a> under that moniker too.",
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"bio": "My passion is exploring the connections between food, travel and culture. I am a regular contributor to AFAR, Edible East Bay Magazine, Oakland Magazine, Berkeleyside's NOSH and other publications. I usually take a route that's slightly off the beaten path, like \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/fun-with-food-insults/\">collecting food-related insults\u003c/a> around the world or \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/what-i-learned-hawking-sweet-potatoes-with-a-street-vendor-in-taiwan?email=amindess%40aol.com&utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Doctors%20Without%20Borders&utm_term=Daily%20Wander%20Newsletter\">volunteering with a Sweet Potato Mama\u003c/a> (street food seller) in Tapei.\r\n\r\nCulture is the thread that ties together my several careers. I also work as a sign language interpreter, educator and author. My study of Deaf culture has taken me around the world, where I am always on a quest to find Deaf-owned restaurants. I love making connections between my different worlds, for example in this AFAR story where I share \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/tips-from-a-sign-language-interpreter-for-overcoming-language-barriers\">tips for communicating across cultures\u003c/a> that I learned from the real experts, Deaf people. Or this \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/deaf-chefs-compete/\">profile of a Deaf chef and culinary arts instructor\u003c/a> at the California School for the Deaf.\r\n\r\nTo see my visual/edible take on the world, follow me on Instagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/annamindess/\">annamindess. \u003c/a>\r\n\r\nFor more of my stories: visit Contently \u003ca href=\"http://annamindess.contently.com\">annamindess.contently.com\u003c/a>",
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"disqusTitle": "Benu: A Meditative Meal",
"title": "Benu: A Meditative Meal",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150744.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150744-e1319763520596.jpg\" alt=\"eel\" title=\"eel\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34767\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've never been to \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/\" title=\"The French Laundry\">The French Laundry\u003c/a>. Ever since my love for food evolved from outings to the Olive Garden to a lovely dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://www.oliveto.com/\" title=\"Oliveto\">Oliveto\u003c/a>, it has represented to me the pinnacle of haute cuisine in America. Several years ago, when I happened to be spending the day in Yountville with an ex-boyfriend, I asked him to slowly drive past the restaurant in the hopes of catching a glimpse of the chef (as we weren't able to get a reservation). And lo -- there he was, the celebrated \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Keller\" title=\"Thomas Keller\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a>, standing in the bucolic backyard and chatting with one of his staff. I squealed loudly like a teenage groupie and my ex-boyfriend remarked, \"Well, I can't compete with that.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I still haven't been to the restaurant. But after dining tonight at Benu, I almost feel that I have -- through one of its gifted progeny. Keller's former chef de cuisine of 4 1/2 years, \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/corey-lee\" title=\"Benu\">Corey Lee\u003c/a>, is the creative force behind this remarkable restaurant. He's been receiving loads of press, with renowned New York City chef David Chang recently declaring Benu, \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/10/05/benu-named-best-restaurant-in-america_n_996423.html\" title=\"best restaurant\">the best restaurant in America.\u003c/a>\" It's been open for a little over a year, and it's still possible to easily get a prime time reservation on a weeknight. (I'm sure that'll change as they were recently awarded with \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/g/a/2011/10/26/bloomberg_articlesLTN8921A74E9.DTL\" title=\"michelin stars\">two Michelin stars\u003c/a>.) With my friend Scott Spencer of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/09/01/the-cyclist-chef-a-look-inside-spencers-pantry/\" title=\"spencer's pantry\">Spencer's Pantry\u003c/a> in tow, we headed to Hawthorne Lane in SOMA. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After you pass through the gate that leads to Benu's stone courtyard, you pass by a glass door on the right that offers you a glimpse of the spotless kitchen that emanates the same calm zen quality as the restaurant itself. The staff seems unhurried, working intently on their dishes at their stations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150771-e1319736214190.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150771-e1319736214190.jpg\" alt=\"benu kitchen\" title=\"benu kitchen\" width=\"499\" height=\"321\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34783\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first thing I noticed about the spare, modernist interior after we sat down (designed by \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/richard-bloch\" title=\"richard bloch\">Richard Bloch\u003c/a>) was the muted, gray tonality of the space that was gently illuminated with a neutral, balanced light. It reminded me of walking into an art museum at dusk or that first moment before a play is about to begin, with the house lights gradually dimmed before the performance. There's a cool stillness that evokes more of a contemplative mood -- rather than a romantic one -- in its atmosphere. With higher-end fine dining, I'm accustomed to walking into hushed, dark spaces lit only by candlelight and the other patrons shrouded in darkness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150758.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150758-e1319757572334.jpg\" alt=\"benu dining room\" title=\"benu dining room\" width=\"499\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34777\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scott and I knew beforehand that we were going to order the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/tasting.pdf\" title=\"tasting menu at benu\">19-course tasting menu\u003c/a> ($180 / person, which the whole table must order together). Yes, 19 courses -- and spoiler alert: each one was exquisite. I won't go through the entire tasting menu -- which you can see in the slideshow below -- so I'll just review some of the highlights. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The square black wooden tables, sans white tablecloths, offer an appealing backdrop that is both casual in its presentation yet still retains a formal quality. Each dish is served in a beautiful Korean ceramic vessel (made by \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/kwangjuyo\" title=\"kwangjuyo\">KwangJuYo\u003c/a>, seemingly crafted with each course in mind as they complemented the ingredients perfectly.) And most of the courses were eaten with a small silver spoon that lay on a stone rest. The service was impeccable; each dish was brought out by a rotation of different servers -- a nice touch that added a punctuation of freshness to each course -- who described the ingredients and the best way to indulge in the dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A single bite of oyster and pork belly that wonderfully melded together and was encapsulated in a sugar glass-like kimchi-infused wrapper was probably the most delightful thing I've ever eaten in my life. And to think that was only the second course; my mind was already blown by the combination of the crunchy kimchi glass giving way to the luscious oyster and pork belly in one rapturous, melt-in-your-mouth bite. \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Umami\" title=\"umami\">Umami\u003c/a> overload. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150736-e1319757460537.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150736-e1319757460537.jpg\" alt=\"oyster pork belly kimchi\" title=\"oyster pork belly kimchi\" width=\"499\" height=\"339\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34763\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Do you know those colorful \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krupuk\" title=\"shrimp chips\">shrimp chips\u003c/a> that sometimes accompany dishes at Asian restaurants? Benu reinvented this snack favorite with their \"salt-and-pepper squid\" dish by creating a large, peppery black chip topped with tender cubes of squid and jalapeno for a bit of a spicy kick. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150746-e1319757145759.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150746-e1319757145759.jpg\" alt=\"salt and pepper squid\" title=\"salt and pepper squid\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34769\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there were the soup dumplings. Not just any soup dumplings, but \"foie gras xiao long bao.\" (I'll digress here for a moment and say that dumplings are one of the core elements of my being. I am obsessed with dumplings, to the point where I contemplated starting my own independent dumpling enterprise.) They arrived on an elegant white circular porcelain platter that's a nod to the steamed bamboo baskets commonly seen in Chinese restaurants. After taking a small bite to release the warm foie gras broth into the spoon, I slurped up the rich soup before eating the rest of the tender pork dumpling. I was rather forlorn that there were only two; it was over much too soon. (And I suppose, come \u003ca href=\"http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2011-09-07/foie-gras-lovers-in-california-fall-victim-to-rights-of-ducks.html\" title=\"foie gras ban\">next July\u003c/a>, this dish will be off the menu.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150750.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150750-e1319758113895.jpg\" alt=\"soup dumpling\" title=\"soup dumpling\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34771\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"beef braised in pear, beech mushroom, sunflower seeds and leaves\" -- like the kimchi glass earlier in the meal -- drew upon Chef Lee's Korean roots. One secret to creating tender Korean beef barbecue is to add pear to the traditional soy sauce, garlic, onions and scallions marinade to help tenderize the beef. And the succulent (and I'm guessing, sous vide-prepared) beef was heavenly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150761.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150761-e1319763061365.jpg\" alt=\"beef braised in pear, beech mushroom, sunflower seeds and leaves\" title=\"beef braised in pear, beech mushroom, sunflower seeds and leaves\" width=\"499\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34778\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The entire tasting menu unfolded like the four seasons, starting off with lighter bites and spring-like tastes, then ending with deeper, richer autumnal flavors towards the end. A gorgeous dessert of \"fig, white chocolate, balsamic vinegar, sake lees (the sediment leftover after rice is pressed to make the alcohol)\" resembled a delicate snowfall on a winter's day. It was accompanied with \"malted rice tea, pine nut, pine needle honey\"; you'd drink the sweet tea, then eat a soft custard at the bottom of the glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150763-e1319759843887.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150763-e1319759843887.jpg\" alt=\"dessert\" title=\"dessert\" width=\"499\" height=\"312\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34780\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Three hours later, at the end of our feast -- concluded with fine chocolates from \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/la-foret\" title=\"la foret\">Napa-based La Forêt Chocolate & Confections\u003c/a> -- Scott and I were in a state of serene bliss. The flawlessly executed dishes -- with several an homage to Asian home-cooking favorites -- inspired lively discussion between us about technique, ingredients, and our love of food. Benu is a temple to fine dining, and I will make another pilgrimage on another special occasion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com\" title=\"benu\">Benu\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n22 Hawthorne Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco CA 94105 \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://g.co/maps/kykzj\">map\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n(415) 685-4860\u003cbr>\nFor parties of seven or more, contact Kathryn Douglass at (415) 685-4860 x116\u003cbr>\nDinner service only. Tuesday-Saturday, 5:30pm to 9:30pm\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Benu-Restaurant/115962055103723\" title=\"Facebook\">Benu on Facebook\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2F&set_id=72157627863822111&jump_to=\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cembed type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" flashvars=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2F&set_id=72157627863822111&jump_to=\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "I spent 3 hours reveling in the exquisite 19-course tasting menu at Benu, which was recently awarded with two Michelin stars.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150744.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150744-e1319763520596.jpg\" alt=\"eel\" title=\"eel\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34767\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've never been to \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/\" title=\"The French Laundry\">The French Laundry\u003c/a>. Ever since my love for food evolved from outings to the Olive Garden to a lovely dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://www.oliveto.com/\" title=\"Oliveto\">Oliveto\u003c/a>, it has represented to me the pinnacle of haute cuisine in America. Several years ago, when I happened to be spending the day in Yountville with an ex-boyfriend, I asked him to slowly drive past the restaurant in the hopes of catching a glimpse of the chef (as we weren't able to get a reservation). And lo -- there he was, the celebrated \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Keller\" title=\"Thomas Keller\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a>, standing in the bucolic backyard and chatting with one of his staff. I squealed loudly like a teenage groupie and my ex-boyfriend remarked, \"Well, I can't compete with that.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I still haven't been to the restaurant. But after dining tonight at Benu, I almost feel that I have -- through one of its gifted progeny. Keller's former chef de cuisine of 4 1/2 years, \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/corey-lee\" title=\"Benu\">Corey Lee\u003c/a>, is the creative force behind this remarkable restaurant. He's been receiving loads of press, with renowned New York City chef David Chang recently declaring Benu, \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/10/05/benu-named-best-restaurant-in-america_n_996423.html\" title=\"best restaurant\">the best restaurant in America.\u003c/a>\" It's been open for a little over a year, and it's still possible to easily get a prime time reservation on a weeknight. (I'm sure that'll change as they were recently awarded with \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/g/a/2011/10/26/bloomberg_articlesLTN8921A74E9.DTL\" title=\"michelin stars\">two Michelin stars\u003c/a>.) With my friend Scott Spencer of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/09/01/the-cyclist-chef-a-look-inside-spencers-pantry/\" title=\"spencer's pantry\">Spencer's Pantry\u003c/a> in tow, we headed to Hawthorne Lane in SOMA. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After you pass through the gate that leads to Benu's stone courtyard, you pass by a glass door on the right that offers you a glimpse of the spotless kitchen that emanates the same calm zen quality as the restaurant itself. The staff seems unhurried, working intently on their dishes at their stations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150771-e1319736214190.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150771-e1319736214190.jpg\" alt=\"benu kitchen\" title=\"benu kitchen\" width=\"499\" height=\"321\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34783\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first thing I noticed about the spare, modernist interior after we sat down (designed by \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/richard-bloch\" title=\"richard bloch\">Richard Bloch\u003c/a>) was the muted, gray tonality of the space that was gently illuminated with a neutral, balanced light. It reminded me of walking into an art museum at dusk or that first moment before a play is about to begin, with the house lights gradually dimmed before the performance. There's a cool stillness that evokes more of a contemplative mood -- rather than a romantic one -- in its atmosphere. With higher-end fine dining, I'm accustomed to walking into hushed, dark spaces lit only by candlelight and the other patrons shrouded in darkness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150758.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150758-e1319757572334.jpg\" alt=\"benu dining room\" title=\"benu dining room\" width=\"499\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34777\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scott and I knew beforehand that we were going to order the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/tasting.pdf\" title=\"tasting menu at benu\">19-course tasting menu\u003c/a> ($180 / person, which the whole table must order together). Yes, 19 courses -- and spoiler alert: each one was exquisite. I won't go through the entire tasting menu -- which you can see in the slideshow below -- so I'll just review some of the highlights. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The square black wooden tables, sans white tablecloths, offer an appealing backdrop that is both casual in its presentation yet still retains a formal quality. Each dish is served in a beautiful Korean ceramic vessel (made by \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/kwangjuyo\" title=\"kwangjuyo\">KwangJuYo\u003c/a>, seemingly crafted with each course in mind as they complemented the ingredients perfectly.) And most of the courses were eaten with a small silver spoon that lay on a stone rest. The service was impeccable; each dish was brought out by a rotation of different servers -- a nice touch that added a punctuation of freshness to each course -- who described the ingredients and the best way to indulge in the dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A single bite of oyster and pork belly that wonderfully melded together and was encapsulated in a sugar glass-like kimchi-infused wrapper was probably the most delightful thing I've ever eaten in my life. And to think that was only the second course; my mind was already blown by the combination of the crunchy kimchi glass giving way to the luscious oyster and pork belly in one rapturous, melt-in-your-mouth bite. \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Umami\" title=\"umami\">Umami\u003c/a> overload. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150736-e1319757460537.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150736-e1319757460537.jpg\" alt=\"oyster pork belly kimchi\" title=\"oyster pork belly kimchi\" width=\"499\" height=\"339\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34763\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Do you know those colorful \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krupuk\" title=\"shrimp chips\">shrimp chips\u003c/a> that sometimes accompany dishes at Asian restaurants? Benu reinvented this snack favorite with their \"salt-and-pepper squid\" dish by creating a large, peppery black chip topped with tender cubes of squid and jalapeno for a bit of a spicy kick. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150746-e1319757145759.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150746-e1319757145759.jpg\" alt=\"salt and pepper squid\" title=\"salt and pepper squid\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34769\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there were the soup dumplings. Not just any soup dumplings, but \"foie gras xiao long bao.\" (I'll digress here for a moment and say that dumplings are one of the core elements of my being. I am obsessed with dumplings, to the point where I contemplated starting my own independent dumpling enterprise.) They arrived on an elegant white circular porcelain platter that's a nod to the steamed bamboo baskets commonly seen in Chinese restaurants. After taking a small bite to release the warm foie gras broth into the spoon, I slurped up the rich soup before eating the rest of the tender pork dumpling. I was rather forlorn that there were only two; it was over much too soon. (And I suppose, come \u003ca href=\"http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2011-09-07/foie-gras-lovers-in-california-fall-victim-to-rights-of-ducks.html\" title=\"foie gras ban\">next July\u003c/a>, this dish will be off the menu.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150750.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150750-e1319758113895.jpg\" alt=\"soup dumpling\" title=\"soup dumpling\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34771\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"beef braised in pear, beech mushroom, sunflower seeds and leaves\" -- like the kimchi glass earlier in the meal -- drew upon Chef Lee's Korean roots. One secret to creating tender Korean beef barbecue is to add pear to the traditional soy sauce, garlic, onions and scallions marinade to help tenderize the beef. And the succulent (and I'm guessing, sous vide-prepared) beef was heavenly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150761.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150761-e1319763061365.jpg\" alt=\"beef braised in pear, beech mushroom, sunflower seeds and leaves\" title=\"beef braised in pear, beech mushroom, sunflower seeds and leaves\" width=\"499\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34778\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The entire tasting menu unfolded like the four seasons, starting off with lighter bites and spring-like tastes, then ending with deeper, richer autumnal flavors towards the end. A gorgeous dessert of \"fig, white chocolate, balsamic vinegar, sake lees (the sediment leftover after rice is pressed to make the alcohol)\" resembled a delicate snowfall on a winter's day. It was accompanied with \"malted rice tea, pine nut, pine needle honey\"; you'd drink the sweet tea, then eat a soft custard at the bottom of the glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150763-e1319759843887.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150763-e1319759843887.jpg\" alt=\"dessert\" title=\"dessert\" width=\"499\" height=\"312\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34780\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Three hours later, at the end of our feast -- concluded with fine chocolates from \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/la-foret\" title=\"la foret\">Napa-based La Forêt Chocolate & Confections\u003c/a> -- Scott and I were in a state of serene bliss. The flawlessly executed dishes -- with several an homage to Asian home-cooking favorites -- inspired lively discussion between us about technique, ingredients, and our love of food. Benu is a temple to fine dining, and I will make another pilgrimage on another special occasion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com\" title=\"benu\">Benu\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n22 Hawthorne Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco CA 94105 \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://g.co/maps/kykzj\">map\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n(415) 685-4860\u003cbr>\nFor parties of seven or more, contact Kathryn Douglass at (415) 685-4860 x116\u003cbr>\nDinner service only. Tuesday-Saturday, 5:30pm to 9:30pm\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Benu-Restaurant/115962055103723\" title=\"Facebook\">Benu on Facebook\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Michael Mina, American Fish (Las Vegas) ",
"title": "Michael Mina, American Fish (Las Vegas) ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/american-fish-aria-las-vegas-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-6.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/american-fish-aria-las-vegas-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-6.jpg\" alt=\"Michael Mina, American Fish\" title=\"Michael Mina, American Fish\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34753\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef/Restaurateur \u003cstrong>Michael Mina\u003c/strong> may have his roots in San Francisco, but with 18 restaurants across the country now, you don't have to be in the Bay to taste his food. In fact, with the opening of \u003ca href=\"http://www.arialasvegas.com/dining/american-fish.aspx\">American Fish\u003c/a>, his latest venture at the sleek \u003ca href=\"http://www.arialasvegas.com/\">ARIA Resort & Casino\u003c/a> in Las Vegas, Sin City now boasts one more restaurant from \u003ca href=\"http://michaelmina.net/\">Mina Group\u003c/a> than even San Francisco (for those keeping score, the count is 5-4).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/american-fish-aria-las-vegas-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/american-fish-aria-las-vegas-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-1.jpg\" alt=\"American Fish, Las Vegas\" title=\"American Fish, Las Vegas\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34747\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>American Fish (ARIA, Las Vegas)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>American Fish celebrates the bounty of America's great lakes, rivers and oceans. The menu features regional products prepared in four signature cooking methods: poached in ocean water, griddled over cast iron, baked in sea salt, and wood grilled and smoked. The design of the space impossibly melds soothing nature with Vegas glitz. Displayed behind the elevated bar is an infinity forest of birch trees, a blue-lit installation above brings to mind salmon running upstream, copper and wood tones glow throughout the dining room, and a gleaming showcase kitchen spans the length of the room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While I was in Vegas for the \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/travel/food-wine-all-star-weekend-las-vegas-giveaway/\">Food & Wine All-Star Weekend\u003c/a>, I had the opportunity to sit down with Chef Mina, taste some of his food, and chat about American Fish, techniques you can bring into your own kitchen, inspiration, and of course, great food. Here's what he had to say: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/american-fish-aria-las-vegas-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-17.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/american-fish-aria-las-vegas-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-17.jpg\" alt=\"Michael Mina, American Fish\" title=\"Michael Mina, American Fish\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34746\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Michael Mina at American Fish (Las Vegas)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What particularly about the concept for American Fish made you want to bring it to Vegas?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYou live in San Francisco so you know my background was Aqua and it was a fish restaurant. That's the first restaurant I brought to Las Vegas. As everything else, I think times change, and change is obviously good, but that era of fine dining, more and more, is becoming high energy. In the food, I think product and technique more than ever right now is the driving force, and what I mean by that is people are going back to simplicity. It's interesting because diners are going back to simplicity in dishes but with the highest level of quality of product that we've ever seen them be aware of, which is great. I was just in New York at \u003ca href=\"http://www.abckitchennyc.com/\">ABC Kitchen\u003c/a> and I couldn't believe it – I was like, what?! Jean-Georges is serving fried calamari with aioli and tomato sauce…but it was \u003cem>perfect\u003c/em>. I mean it was \u003cem>perfect\u003c/em>, it was \u003cem>delicious\u003c/em>…more than ever now, people are looking for simplicity and familiarity, and that's what this concept is all about. This concept is about things like cooking trout in a cast iron pan over an open fire. As simple as it sounds when it's done really well people can relate to it and they enjoy it. And that was the idea. The ability to build a showcase kitchen like this and use those techniques and then feature a lot of product from America because there's such good product here now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is there anything on the menu that is your personal favorite?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe salt grill technique. That's definitely my favorite technique. I just love it because it gets both the wood flavor and it gets the salt flavor, and I like salt. I like that natural flavor of salt in the food where cooking it in rock salt gives it to you -- it's like finishing with a finishing salt, I love that flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Something that piqued my interest from this afternoon was when you were talking about poaching the fish in ocean water. How did you come up with that?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI was doing an event in Hawaii, and I literally went and got buckets of water out of the ocean and I poached all the lobsters in it. I started with the lobsters in the shell because I was wondering how strong the flavor would take to it, poached them, then de-shelled them, and then finished them in that same ocean water with a little bit of butter, and it was amazing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Did you \u003cem>sous vide\u003c/em> it like you do here?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nActually at that point, I hadn't taken it to that level yet. I just did it in a pan, really really slow, poached in water and butter…and I was amazed at what the outcome was. And I was amazed at what people said. Then we got to a point where I actually made a sauce out of some of the water and butter the lobster was cooked in, so you really got that pop of the flavor, and it was great. Then I took it to the next level. As soon as I did that, it was just, every piece of fish I could find the rest of the time I was in Hawaii I was poaching it in ocean water. That's when I really started getting it. And then, like 99% of everything you do, you find out that it's been done. I came back to San Francisco and I was talking to my chef, and it was funny because one of the guys who works for me that's a food runner is from Peru, and he's like, \"Oh, no, in Peru we do that.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You mentioned earlier that the ocean water used here at the restaurant comes from Monterey or Hawaii. So you're saying you actually buy ocean water?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI buy it in the sense that I have my fish company bring it when they bring everything else. It was funny because somebody wrote something once that I thought was really interesting. They wrote, \"Why in the world would you bring water in?\" And as I'm sitting here, drinking a glass of Fiji, I'm thinking to myself, that's the oddest thing to write. As you're writing that you're probably drinking a bottle of water. And, [the poaching technique] doesn't take a lot of water. It's not a big pot of it that you're throwing out every time. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you have to purify it?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWell, it's tested. We don't actually have to purify it. You just get really clean water. They test it for us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>If I wanted to try this at home, how would I go about getting clean ocean poaching water?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBoil it. You can go get ocean water, boil it, strain it, and then cool it down. That's the trick. And then use it the same way from a cold state and it'll be fine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You've obviously done incredibly well in San Francisco. How is it opening up restaurants in different cities? Are you finding that your audience is different? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPeople who love food are people who love food. Price point depends on the city and what's accepted in that city, so you have to be aware of that. Also, I think you also have to be aware of the dining experience people are looking for. I know when I come to Las Vegas, and when other people come to Las Vegas, they have a big list of things they're going to do that night, so time is an issue. People do want to dine fast. I think overall, one of the things that really attracted me to do more restaurants in Las Vegas is what I fell in love with when I did Aqua at Bellagio. I fell in love with how people were coming to enjoy themselves, and you were a part of their enjoyment. It was great. It was such a nice environment. People come into the restaurant and they want to have a great time…and you know, so they're a little loud. But that's the piece that I came away with from early on was how much I enjoyed that. It fits my personality, it fits my company, it fits everyone in my company. You can do great food, great techniques, everything else, and you can do it in an environment where people are relaxed and enjoying themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Let's talk culinary influences. What are big ones for you?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI love bold flavors. I love strong flavors. And in that sense I love Asian food because I like acidity, sweetness…I like that whole thing of acidity, sweetness, spice, and fat balance. I love balance in food. And so, Asian food in general has that. And then Japanese food, technique-wise and product-wise -- I'm glad it has become as popular as it has. We've all learned a lot from it. I'm classically trained in French cooking, I went to CIA, and the roots of a lot of that is French. So…those are all big influences. Also, Italian cooking -- I think that a lot of California cooking has come from rustic Italian cooking, so I always study and look at that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's the best advice you've ever been given as a chef?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nTravel. Eat out. Taste. Never taking for granted how something tastes. You have use your palette and your mind at the same time to ever make a statement. You have to learn all the techniques and everything else, but you have to understand what you're going for in your food. You have to have a clear vision of what you're trying to achieve out of your cooking. And I think that traveling, eating out, has a lot to do with that because you learn so much in the kitchen that it's so easy to close yourself off to that…it's a completely different experience as a diner. I mean, I've had chefs work for me that I taste a dish and I'm like, \"This is great!\" And I look at him and I ask, \"Have you sat down and eaten a whole dish?\" As a chef, you have to eat the dish beginning to end. That's why entrées are so much harder than appetizers, because you have to keep somebody's interest, 25 bites into a dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What was the last great meal you had?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe last great meal I've had? Um…I have great meals all the time. Well I was just in New York, so every place I ate…I would say ABC Kitchen, just in the sense that it was unexpected. I had heard so much about it, but I didn't expect it to be the way it was, and I really did enjoy it. I really enjoyed the whole feeling. And, to me, any great meal is about your company, it's about the people you're eating with. Obviously the food and everything else, but it's the full experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are some of the all-star dishes you had there?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLike I said, it was actually interesting because it was more about simplicity, so I had a toast with a chicken liver mousse, it was just great, and you know, maybe it was just because I hadn't had toast with chicken liver mousse on it in a long time, but it was delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Any guilty pleasures? You know, when no one's looking that you're sneaking?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYeah…too many, obviously (as he pats his stomach). Probably...I love barbecue. Yeah, I love barbecue. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Like, ribs?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYeah, ribs, anything. I love it. Again, it goes to the whole thing of bold flavor foods -- acid, sweet, spice. Barbecue is my guilty pleasure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Who makes the best barbecue?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.sonnybryans.com/restaurants/dfw/original-inwood.html\">Sonny's\u003c/a> in Dallas is really good. The original. Only the original.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>I know you have two sons -- do they like to cook as well?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYes, constantly. They've been coming to the restaurant with me since they were four. I used to bring one on Friday, one on Saturday. Now they're big enough that they both can come at the same time. And they cook. They work all over the restaurant. I think I'm completely blessed. I can bring them to work. They really understand what I do. (Whips out his phone) I'll show you the little one making an ice cream sandwich. Anthony. He's actually very good, I'm just showing this because it's a cute video, but I've got him making tuna tartar. Sam is the older one. This is him grilling… \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>That's right, Chef, start them young. \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/american-fish-aria-las-vegas-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-6.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/american-fish-aria-las-vegas-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-6.jpg\" alt=\"Michael Mina, American Fish\" title=\"Michael Mina, American Fish\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34753\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef/Restaurateur \u003cstrong>Michael Mina\u003c/strong> may have his roots in San Francisco, but with 18 restaurants across the country now, you don't have to be in the Bay to taste his food. In fact, with the opening of \u003ca href=\"http://www.arialasvegas.com/dining/american-fish.aspx\">American Fish\u003c/a>, his latest venture at the sleek \u003ca href=\"http://www.arialasvegas.com/\">ARIA Resort & Casino\u003c/a> in Las Vegas, Sin City now boasts one more restaurant from \u003ca href=\"http://michaelmina.net/\">Mina Group\u003c/a> than even San Francisco (for those keeping score, the count is 5-4).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/american-fish-aria-las-vegas-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/american-fish-aria-las-vegas-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-1.jpg\" alt=\"American Fish, Las Vegas\" title=\"American Fish, Las Vegas\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34747\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>American Fish (ARIA, Las Vegas)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>American Fish celebrates the bounty of America's great lakes, rivers and oceans. The menu features regional products prepared in four signature cooking methods: poached in ocean water, griddled over cast iron, baked in sea salt, and wood grilled and smoked. The design of the space impossibly melds soothing nature with Vegas glitz. Displayed behind the elevated bar is an infinity forest of birch trees, a blue-lit installation above brings to mind salmon running upstream, copper and wood tones glow throughout the dining room, and a gleaming showcase kitchen spans the length of the room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While I was in Vegas for the \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/travel/food-wine-all-star-weekend-las-vegas-giveaway/\">Food & Wine All-Star Weekend\u003c/a>, I had the opportunity to sit down with Chef Mina, taste some of his food, and chat about American Fish, techniques you can bring into your own kitchen, inspiration, and of course, great food. Here's what he had to say: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/american-fish-aria-las-vegas-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-17.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/american-fish-aria-las-vegas-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-17.jpg\" alt=\"Michael Mina, American Fish\" title=\"Michael Mina, American Fish\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34746\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Michael Mina at American Fish (Las Vegas)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What particularly about the concept for American Fish made you want to bring it to Vegas?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYou live in San Francisco so you know my background was Aqua and it was a fish restaurant. That's the first restaurant I brought to Las Vegas. As everything else, I think times change, and change is obviously good, but that era of fine dining, more and more, is becoming high energy. In the food, I think product and technique more than ever right now is the driving force, and what I mean by that is people are going back to simplicity. It's interesting because diners are going back to simplicity in dishes but with the highest level of quality of product that we've ever seen them be aware of, which is great. I was just in New York at \u003ca href=\"http://www.abckitchennyc.com/\">ABC Kitchen\u003c/a> and I couldn't believe it – I was like, what?! Jean-Georges is serving fried calamari with aioli and tomato sauce…but it was \u003cem>perfect\u003c/em>. I mean it was \u003cem>perfect\u003c/em>, it was \u003cem>delicious\u003c/em>…more than ever now, people are looking for simplicity and familiarity, and that's what this concept is all about. This concept is about things like cooking trout in a cast iron pan over an open fire. As simple as it sounds when it's done really well people can relate to it and they enjoy it. And that was the idea. The ability to build a showcase kitchen like this and use those techniques and then feature a lot of product from America because there's such good product here now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is there anything on the menu that is your personal favorite?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe salt grill technique. That's definitely my favorite technique. I just love it because it gets both the wood flavor and it gets the salt flavor, and I like salt. I like that natural flavor of salt in the food where cooking it in rock salt gives it to you -- it's like finishing with a finishing salt, I love that flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Something that piqued my interest from this afternoon was when you were talking about poaching the fish in ocean water. How did you come up with that?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI was doing an event in Hawaii, and I literally went and got buckets of water out of the ocean and I poached all the lobsters in it. I started with the lobsters in the shell because I was wondering how strong the flavor would take to it, poached them, then de-shelled them, and then finished them in that same ocean water with a little bit of butter, and it was amazing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Did you \u003cem>sous vide\u003c/em> it like you do here?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nActually at that point, I hadn't taken it to that level yet. I just did it in a pan, really really slow, poached in water and butter…and I was amazed at what the outcome was. And I was amazed at what people said. Then we got to a point where I actually made a sauce out of some of the water and butter the lobster was cooked in, so you really got that pop of the flavor, and it was great. Then I took it to the next level. As soon as I did that, it was just, every piece of fish I could find the rest of the time I was in Hawaii I was poaching it in ocean water. That's when I really started getting it. And then, like 99% of everything you do, you find out that it's been done. I came back to San Francisco and I was talking to my chef, and it was funny because one of the guys who works for me that's a food runner is from Peru, and he's like, \"Oh, no, in Peru we do that.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You mentioned earlier that the ocean water used here at the restaurant comes from Monterey or Hawaii. So you're saying you actually buy ocean water?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI buy it in the sense that I have my fish company bring it when they bring everything else. It was funny because somebody wrote something once that I thought was really interesting. They wrote, \"Why in the world would you bring water in?\" And as I'm sitting here, drinking a glass of Fiji, I'm thinking to myself, that's the oddest thing to write. As you're writing that you're probably drinking a bottle of water. And, [the poaching technique] doesn't take a lot of water. It's not a big pot of it that you're throwing out every time. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you have to purify it?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWell, it's tested. We don't actually have to purify it. You just get really clean water. They test it for us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>If I wanted to try this at home, how would I go about getting clean ocean poaching water?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBoil it. You can go get ocean water, boil it, strain it, and then cool it down. That's the trick. And then use it the same way from a cold state and it'll be fine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You've obviously done incredibly well in San Francisco. How is it opening up restaurants in different cities? Are you finding that your audience is different? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPeople who love food are people who love food. Price point depends on the city and what's accepted in that city, so you have to be aware of that. Also, I think you also have to be aware of the dining experience people are looking for. I know when I come to Las Vegas, and when other people come to Las Vegas, they have a big list of things they're going to do that night, so time is an issue. People do want to dine fast. I think overall, one of the things that really attracted me to do more restaurants in Las Vegas is what I fell in love with when I did Aqua at Bellagio. I fell in love with how people were coming to enjoy themselves, and you were a part of their enjoyment. It was great. It was such a nice environment. People come into the restaurant and they want to have a great time…and you know, so they're a little loud. But that's the piece that I came away with from early on was how much I enjoyed that. It fits my personality, it fits my company, it fits everyone in my company. You can do great food, great techniques, everything else, and you can do it in an environment where people are relaxed and enjoying themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Let's talk culinary influences. What are big ones for you?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI love bold flavors. I love strong flavors. And in that sense I love Asian food because I like acidity, sweetness…I like that whole thing of acidity, sweetness, spice, and fat balance. I love balance in food. And so, Asian food in general has that. And then Japanese food, technique-wise and product-wise -- I'm glad it has become as popular as it has. We've all learned a lot from it. I'm classically trained in French cooking, I went to CIA, and the roots of a lot of that is French. So…those are all big influences. Also, Italian cooking -- I think that a lot of California cooking has come from rustic Italian cooking, so I always study and look at that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's the best advice you've ever been given as a chef?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nTravel. Eat out. Taste. Never taking for granted how something tastes. You have use your palette and your mind at the same time to ever make a statement. You have to learn all the techniques and everything else, but you have to understand what you're going for in your food. You have to have a clear vision of what you're trying to achieve out of your cooking. And I think that traveling, eating out, has a lot to do with that because you learn so much in the kitchen that it's so easy to close yourself off to that…it's a completely different experience as a diner. I mean, I've had chefs work for me that I taste a dish and I'm like, \"This is great!\" And I look at him and I ask, \"Have you sat down and eaten a whole dish?\" As a chef, you have to eat the dish beginning to end. That's why entrées are so much harder than appetizers, because you have to keep somebody's interest, 25 bites into a dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What was the last great meal you had?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe last great meal I've had? Um…I have great meals all the time. Well I was just in New York, so every place I ate…I would say ABC Kitchen, just in the sense that it was unexpected. I had heard so much about it, but I didn't expect it to be the way it was, and I really did enjoy it. I really enjoyed the whole feeling. And, to me, any great meal is about your company, it's about the people you're eating with. Obviously the food and everything else, but it's the full experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are some of the all-star dishes you had there?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLike I said, it was actually interesting because it was more about simplicity, so I had a toast with a chicken liver mousse, it was just great, and you know, maybe it was just because I hadn't had toast with chicken liver mousse on it in a long time, but it was delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Any guilty pleasures? You know, when no one's looking that you're sneaking?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYeah…too many, obviously (as he pats his stomach). Probably...I love barbecue. Yeah, I love barbecue. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Like, ribs?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYeah, ribs, anything. I love it. Again, it goes to the whole thing of bold flavor foods -- acid, sweet, spice. Barbecue is my guilty pleasure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Who makes the best barbecue?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.sonnybryans.com/restaurants/dfw/original-inwood.html\">Sonny's\u003c/a> in Dallas is really good. The original. Only the original.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>I know you have two sons -- do they like to cook as well?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYes, constantly. They've been coming to the restaurant with me since they were four. I used to bring one on Friday, one on Saturday. Now they're big enough that they both can come at the same time. And they cook. They work all over the restaurant. I think I'm completely blessed. I can bring them to work. They really understand what I do. (Whips out his phone) I'll show you the little one making an ice cream sandwich. Anthony. He's actually very good, I'm just showing this because it's a cute video, but I've got him making tuna tartar. Sam is the older one. This is him grilling… \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>That's right, Chef, start them young. \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/rugulah400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/rugulah400.jpg\" alt=\"rugelach\" title=\"rugelach\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34704\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sunday was my birthday! Were she still baking among us, my grandmother, Fae Rosenbaum, would have celebrated the day by showing up with no less than three proudly Saran-wrapped plates of cookies: her perfectly plain, perfectly perfect chocolate chips; her crunchy, nutty sesame rounds; and best of all, the towering achievement of any \u003cem>bubbe,\u003c/em> her flaky, tender, cinnamon-sugary rugelach, chubby golden-brown pastries filled with jam, raisins, and nuts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sad to say, for all the New Yorkers among us, rugelach haven’t made the jump from East Coast to West. In the tri-state area of New York, New Jersey, and Connecticut, you can find them, good, bad, and indifferent, in just about every deli and bakery with a somewhat Jewish clientele. Look for them right next to the black-and-white cookies, the hamantaschen, and the garishly bright \u003ca href=\"http://smittenkitchen.com/2008/12/seven-layer-cookies/\">rainbow cakes\u003c/a> (these last also known as 7-layer cookies, more Italian-American than Jewish but happily co-opted).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here, though, the few bakery-and-deli versions available are rarely worth eating. More often than not, they’re stale and wan, with the texture of soggy papier-mâché, lumpen and underbaked. In my experience, the only ones worth eating around here are those from from San Francisco's \u003ca href=\"http://www.noevalleybakery.com\">Noe Valley Bakery\u003c/a>, where the cherry-chocolate and pecan-raisin versions are little delights of tender, sweet, and crunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But who wants to spend her birthday swerving around Noe's double-parked Priuses and jaywalking double strollers? If you, like me, crave a plateful of good rugelach for your special day, you’re going to have to roll your own. Like all filled-and-rolled cookies, they take a little time and one-by-one effort, but I wouldn’t call them fussy. They don’t have to look perfect; in fact, being a little homey and misshapen here and there just makes them more authentic, in my opinion. (Professional kitchen experience has made me a neater cook than I would be, left to my own familial inclinations. The women of my family have always cooked with a kind of exuberant, love-crammed zeal that shrugged at a few lumps and crumbles, as long as the end result was delicious.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, where to start? A rugelach, if you've been so sadly deprived as never yet to see one, is a fat little pastry, traditionally crescent-shaped (although my grandmother's were always squarish), made from a rich but not sweet butter-and-cream-cheese dough, wrapped around a filling of jam, raisins, nuts, or chocolate chips. Cinnamon and brown sugar usually found their way into the filling; the jam was usually apricot or raspberry. A good rugelach barely contains the abundance of its filling, and the dough hits a irresistible sweet spot between tender and flaky. They are best small, maybe two bites each, and most delicious when just an hour or two out of the oven. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dough is a rich one, sticky and tricky to work with unless you keep it very cold. As much as I support instant gratification in home baking, rugelach dough, like pie dough, is much better for a few hours' rest in the fridge. This will re-harden the fats and keep the pastry flaky when baked. To make life even easier, throw together the dough in the evening, wrap it and pop it in the fridge, and take it out for filling and rolling the next day. It also freezes well. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What you fill it with depends on your mood, and most importantly, what your own grandmother put in them when she showed up at your house with her own Saran-wrapped plate. I'm always a little suspicious of chocolate-chip rugelach; much as I adore chocolate in every other guise, its richness here seems like overkill against the buttery pastry. Nuts, raisins, and jam, that's the ticket, or even just nuts and raisins over a swipe of melted butter and a sprinkle of brown sugar and cinnamon. Pecans are best, walnuts second, and both should be toasted and chopped to chunky crumbles. Currants make a neater pastry, but raisins are fine, and can be chopped if you want a slightly more uniform filling. Just don't be stingy. No one wants a skimpy rugelach! And bake until they're a fine golden brown, top and bottom. A little more browned is better than too pale. Don't use flavored or low-fat cream cheese, and while you're at it, check the label to make sure it doesn't have a lot of weird and unnecessary ingredients in it. You'd be surprised at what kind of fillers and thickeners end up in what should be an unadulterated dairy product.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These are a lovely thing to have when you're laying out a table of bagels and lox, with lots of coffee and the New York Times crossword at the ready. You're already stocking up on cream cheese and butter for the bagels, why not make a few rugelach while you're at it? What could it hurt? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Grandma's Rugelach\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>I never saw my grandmother cook from a printed recipe. Flour was measured in a coffee cup, and things like cinnamon and sugar went in by eye. I'm still trying to make rugelach as good as hers; here is my approximation of her recipe. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 36 rugelach\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Prep Time: \u003c/strong>45 minutes, plus 3 hours' resting time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 25 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour, 10 minutes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 1/4 cups all-purpose unbleached flour\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n8 oz. cream cheese, at room temperature, cubed\u003cbr>\n8 oz. butter (1 cup, 2 sticks), cubed\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 tsp vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup sour cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Filling:\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup apricot jam\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup currants or raisins\u003cbr>\n1 cup pecans or walnuts, toasted and chopped\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp sugar mixed with 1/2 tsp cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tbsp milk or half-and-half, for glazing\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, stir together the flour, sugar, and salt. Using the paddle on a slow speed, beat in the cream cheese and butter until a soft dough forms. Beat in the vanilla and sour cream. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Divide the dough into three rounds. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and chill for at least 3 hours or overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Preheat oven to 375°F. Leaving remaining rounds in the fridge, unwrap and roll one round into a circle approximately 10 inches across. Spread a thin layer of jam across the round, then sprinkle with currants, nuts, and a little cinnamon sugar. Cut the round into 12 equal triangles. Roll up each triangle from base to tip, bending the two points inward to form a crescent. Repeat with remaining dough and filling. (You can also roll dough into a rectangle, cover with jam, nuts, raisins, and sugar, and roll up lengthwise to make a long roll. Slice into 1-inch sections.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Place pastries on a parchment or Slipat-lined baking sheet. Brush with milk and sprinkle with remaining cinnamon sugar. Bake 25-30 minutes, until golden brown. Let cool for a few minutes on the baking sheet, then remove to a wire rack to finish cooling. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Missing your grandmother's wonderful, tender-crunchy rugelach spilling out raisins and nuts? Out here, you've got to make them yourself. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/rugulah400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/rugulah400.jpg\" alt=\"rugelach\" title=\"rugelach\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34704\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sunday was my birthday! Were she still baking among us, my grandmother, Fae Rosenbaum, would have celebrated the day by showing up with no less than three proudly Saran-wrapped plates of cookies: her perfectly plain, perfectly perfect chocolate chips; her crunchy, nutty sesame rounds; and best of all, the towering achievement of any \u003cem>bubbe,\u003c/em> her flaky, tender, cinnamon-sugary rugelach, chubby golden-brown pastries filled with jam, raisins, and nuts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sad to say, for all the New Yorkers among us, rugelach haven’t made the jump from East Coast to West. In the tri-state area of New York, New Jersey, and Connecticut, you can find them, good, bad, and indifferent, in just about every deli and bakery with a somewhat Jewish clientele. Look for them right next to the black-and-white cookies, the hamantaschen, and the garishly bright \u003ca href=\"http://smittenkitchen.com/2008/12/seven-layer-cookies/\">rainbow cakes\u003c/a> (these last also known as 7-layer cookies, more Italian-American than Jewish but happily co-opted).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here, though, the few bakery-and-deli versions available are rarely worth eating. More often than not, they’re stale and wan, with the texture of soggy papier-mâché, lumpen and underbaked. In my experience, the only ones worth eating around here are those from from San Francisco's \u003ca href=\"http://www.noevalleybakery.com\">Noe Valley Bakery\u003c/a>, where the cherry-chocolate and pecan-raisin versions are little delights of tender, sweet, and crunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But who wants to spend her birthday swerving around Noe's double-parked Priuses and jaywalking double strollers? If you, like me, crave a plateful of good rugelach for your special day, you’re going to have to roll your own. Like all filled-and-rolled cookies, they take a little time and one-by-one effort, but I wouldn’t call them fussy. They don’t have to look perfect; in fact, being a little homey and misshapen here and there just makes them more authentic, in my opinion. (Professional kitchen experience has made me a neater cook than I would be, left to my own familial inclinations. The women of my family have always cooked with a kind of exuberant, love-crammed zeal that shrugged at a few lumps and crumbles, as long as the end result was delicious.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, where to start? A rugelach, if you've been so sadly deprived as never yet to see one, is a fat little pastry, traditionally crescent-shaped (although my grandmother's were always squarish), made from a rich but not sweet butter-and-cream-cheese dough, wrapped around a filling of jam, raisins, nuts, or chocolate chips. Cinnamon and brown sugar usually found their way into the filling; the jam was usually apricot or raspberry. A good rugelach barely contains the abundance of its filling, and the dough hits a irresistible sweet spot between tender and flaky. They are best small, maybe two bites each, and most delicious when just an hour or two out of the oven. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dough is a rich one, sticky and tricky to work with unless you keep it very cold. As much as I support instant gratification in home baking, rugelach dough, like pie dough, is much better for a few hours' rest in the fridge. This will re-harden the fats and keep the pastry flaky when baked. To make life even easier, throw together the dough in the evening, wrap it and pop it in the fridge, and take it out for filling and rolling the next day. It also freezes well. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What you fill it with depends on your mood, and most importantly, what your own grandmother put in them when she showed up at your house with her own Saran-wrapped plate. I'm always a little suspicious of chocolate-chip rugelach; much as I adore chocolate in every other guise, its richness here seems like overkill against the buttery pastry. Nuts, raisins, and jam, that's the ticket, or even just nuts and raisins over a swipe of melted butter and a sprinkle of brown sugar and cinnamon. Pecans are best, walnuts second, and both should be toasted and chopped to chunky crumbles. Currants make a neater pastry, but raisins are fine, and can be chopped if you want a slightly more uniform filling. Just don't be stingy. No one wants a skimpy rugelach! And bake until they're a fine golden brown, top and bottom. A little more browned is better than too pale. Don't use flavored or low-fat cream cheese, and while you're at it, check the label to make sure it doesn't have a lot of weird and unnecessary ingredients in it. You'd be surprised at what kind of fillers and thickeners end up in what should be an unadulterated dairy product.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These are a lovely thing to have when you're laying out a table of bagels and lox, with lots of coffee and the New York Times crossword at the ready. You're already stocking up on cream cheese and butter for the bagels, why not make a few rugelach while you're at it? What could it hurt? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Grandma's Rugelach\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>I never saw my grandmother cook from a printed recipe. Flour was measured in a coffee cup, and things like cinnamon and sugar went in by eye. I'm still trying to make rugelach as good as hers; here is my approximation of her recipe. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 36 rugelach\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Prep Time: \u003c/strong>45 minutes, plus 3 hours' resting time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 25 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour, 10 minutes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 1/4 cups all-purpose unbleached flour\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n8 oz. cream cheese, at room temperature, cubed\u003cbr>\n8 oz. butter (1 cup, 2 sticks), cubed\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 tsp vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup sour cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Filling:\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup apricot jam\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup currants or raisins\u003cbr>\n1 cup pecans or walnuts, toasted and chopped\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp sugar mixed with 1/2 tsp cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tbsp milk or half-and-half, for glazing\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, stir together the flour, sugar, and salt. Using the paddle on a slow speed, beat in the cream cheese and butter until a soft dough forms. Beat in the vanilla and sour cream. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Divide the dough into three rounds. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and chill for at least 3 hours or overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Preheat oven to 375°F. Leaving remaining rounds in the fridge, unwrap and roll one round into a circle approximately 10 inches across. Spread a thin layer of jam across the round, then sprinkle with currants, nuts, and a little cinnamon sugar. Cut the round into 12 equal triangles. Roll up each triangle from base to tip, bending the two points inward to form a crescent. Repeat with remaining dough and filling. (You can also roll dough into a rectangle, cover with jam, nuts, raisins, and sugar, and roll up lengthwise to make a long roll. Slice into 1-inch sections.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Place pastries on a parchment or Slipat-lined baking sheet. Brush with milk and sprinkle with remaining cinnamon sugar. Bake 25-30 minutes, until golden brown. Let cool for a few minutes on the baking sheet, then remove to a wire rack to finish cooling. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "What I Did At Wine Camp",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_2051.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_2051.jpg\" alt=\"Andrea sorting grapes\" title=\"Andrea sorting grapes\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34389\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The warm days of summer might be over but it’s the middle of grape harvest and for wine lovers that means the chance to go back to camp. Some local wineries offer harvest immersions also known as “Crush Camps” which are half day stints to several day excursions offering hands on winemaking. The serious wine camper might start very early in the morning to pick grapes alongside day laborers who have been working since 2 am. If you are not that committed, you can start the process, as I did, once the fruit has arrived at the winery. I went to \"day camp\" at \u003ca href=\"http://www.crushpadwine.com/\">Crushpad\u003c/a> in Sonoma, a custom crush facility where I have been making wine for nearly a year. My first task was to remove leaves, rocks and bad grapes from freshly picked Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir clusters. A conveyer belt then dropped the grapes into a giant destemmer. I am afraid I let a few unwanted items go by in my effort to learn the task.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_2059.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_2059.jpg\" alt=\"Andrea punching down fermenting grapes\" title=\"Andrea punching down fermenting grapes\" width=\"375\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34363\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearby the destemmer, red grapes were fermenting in open plastic bins. I had heard the term, \"punch down,\" but never knew exactly what it meant. Well, nothing like actually doing a task to get a first hand understanding. A punch down is where you punch the cap of a fermenting batch of grapes to pull the color and flavors out, move yeasts back down into the wine \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Must\">must\u003c/a>, and prevent potential bacteria from growing on the exposed top layer. These grapes had already sat in a cold soak for four to five days, a process where winemakers gauge sugar and future alcohol levels. After the cold room, the white grapes head to a big press and are crushed into juice before fermentation. Red grapes are a little more complicated. To put it simply, they are first fermented with the skins on then pressed and the juice goes through a secondary fermentation before going into barrels to age. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_2045.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_2045.jpg\" alt=\"andrea and another crush camper steralizing\" title=\"andrea and another crush camper steralizing\" width=\"370\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34371\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My fellow campers, about half a dozen, and I were constantly washing our hands. Turns out the inside of a winery needs to be about as sterile as a hospital. Pesky yeasts will attach to your hands, clothes and other instruments and you don’t want those yeasts getting into a different wine batch with a different formula. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before I could even break into a sweat, Crushpad’s Stu Ake, who was a great camp counselor, took us on a tour of the rest of the wine making process. This included several levels of fermentation, aging and barrel tasting. We tasted a Napa Valley Zinfandel from Howell Mountain that, I was told, needed six more months of aging. It was bursting with tannins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_2075.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_2075.jpg\" alt=\"Crushpad's Stu Ake leading barrel tasting\" title=\"Crushpad's Stu Ake leading barrel tasting\" width=\"500\" height=\"360\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34470\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did a half day crush camp but if you want to check out one for yourself, consider that many wineries offer their wine club members harvest experiences. Meantime, here are a few suggestions from day camps to expensive, fantasy crush camps. If you have a recommendation, let us know!\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://sterlingvineyards.com/age_gateway?destination=home\">Sterling Vineyards\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://crushpadwine.com\">Crushpad\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.stsupery.com/events/\">St Supery Harvest Experience\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.schramsberg.com/news/campschramsberg.html\">Schramsberg \u003c/a> -- A multi-day, hands on, sparkling wine immersion.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sonomagrapecamp.com\">Sonoma County Grape Camp\u003c/a> -- A fantasy grape camp. Several wineries get together and participate in a three day, high end, harvest immersion.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>And I leave you with this, what I thought of the entire day at crush camp:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"410\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/MiCwDBJB5Y0\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": "Grape harvest is in full production and so are a number of Crush Camps, or harvest experiences, that give vinophiles a chance to do hands on winemaking.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_2051.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_2051.jpg\" alt=\"Andrea sorting grapes\" title=\"Andrea sorting grapes\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34389\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The warm days of summer might be over but it’s the middle of grape harvest and for wine lovers that means the chance to go back to camp. Some local wineries offer harvest immersions also known as “Crush Camps” which are half day stints to several day excursions offering hands on winemaking. The serious wine camper might start very early in the morning to pick grapes alongside day laborers who have been working since 2 am. If you are not that committed, you can start the process, as I did, once the fruit has arrived at the winery. I went to \"day camp\" at \u003ca href=\"http://www.crushpadwine.com/\">Crushpad\u003c/a> in Sonoma, a custom crush facility where I have been making wine for nearly a year. My first task was to remove leaves, rocks and bad grapes from freshly picked Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir clusters. A conveyer belt then dropped the grapes into a giant destemmer. I am afraid I let a few unwanted items go by in my effort to learn the task.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_2059.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_2059.jpg\" alt=\"Andrea punching down fermenting grapes\" title=\"Andrea punching down fermenting grapes\" width=\"375\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34363\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearby the destemmer, red grapes were fermenting in open plastic bins. I had heard the term, \"punch down,\" but never knew exactly what it meant. Well, nothing like actually doing a task to get a first hand understanding. A punch down is where you punch the cap of a fermenting batch of grapes to pull the color and flavors out, move yeasts back down into the wine \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Must\">must\u003c/a>, and prevent potential bacteria from growing on the exposed top layer. These grapes had already sat in a cold soak for four to five days, a process where winemakers gauge sugar and future alcohol levels. After the cold room, the white grapes head to a big press and are crushed into juice before fermentation. Red grapes are a little more complicated. To put it simply, they are first fermented with the skins on then pressed and the juice goes through a secondary fermentation before going into barrels to age. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_2045.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_2045.jpg\" alt=\"andrea and another crush camper steralizing\" title=\"andrea and another crush camper steralizing\" width=\"370\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34371\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My fellow campers, about half a dozen, and I were constantly washing our hands. Turns out the inside of a winery needs to be about as sterile as a hospital. Pesky yeasts will attach to your hands, clothes and other instruments and you don’t want those yeasts getting into a different wine batch with a different formula. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before I could even break into a sweat, Crushpad’s Stu Ake, who was a great camp counselor, took us on a tour of the rest of the wine making process. This included several levels of fermentation, aging and barrel tasting. We tasted a Napa Valley Zinfandel from Howell Mountain that, I was told, needed six more months of aging. It was bursting with tannins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_2075.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_2075.jpg\" alt=\"Crushpad's Stu Ake leading barrel tasting\" title=\"Crushpad's Stu Ake leading barrel tasting\" width=\"500\" height=\"360\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34470\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did a half day crush camp but if you want to check out one for yourself, consider that many wineries offer their wine club members harvest experiences. Meantime, here are a few suggestions from day camps to expensive, fantasy crush camps. If you have a recommendation, let us know!\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://sterlingvineyards.com/age_gateway?destination=home\">Sterling Vineyards\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://crushpadwine.com\">Crushpad\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.stsupery.com/events/\">St Supery Harvest Experience\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.schramsberg.com/news/campschramsberg.html\">Schramsberg \u003c/a> -- A multi-day, hands on, sparkling wine immersion.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sonomagrapecamp.com\">Sonoma County Grape Camp\u003c/a> -- A fantasy grape camp. Several wineries get together and participate in a three day, high end, harvest immersion.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>And I leave you with this, what I thought of the entire day at crush camp:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"410\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/MiCwDBJB5Y0\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Trekking for Taro in the East Bay",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://eastbayethniceats.com/2011/07/22/taro-treats-in-paradise/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/taro-mochi-3.jpg\" alt=\"Taro Mochi Cake\" title=\"Taro Mochi Cake\" width=\"500\" height=\"316\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34160\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Taro Mochi Cake from Hanalei Roadside Truck\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taro. Isn’t that some kind of sweet potato that’s made into expensive chips? Or a purplish goop, called poi, served at Hawaiian luaus that no one really eats?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I admit those were my assumptions until a recent trip to Kauai where I stumbled upon a divine sweet: a moist, spongy \u003ca href=\"http://eastbayethniceats.com/2011/07/22/taro-treats-in-paradise/\" title=\"taro mochi cake\">taro mochi cake\u003c/a> made with coconut milk and rice flour that I bought from a \u003ca href=\"http://www.hanaleitaro.com/\" title=\"roadside truck in Hanalei\">roadside truck in Hanalei\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So enamored was I with this enchanting taro treat, that I signed on for a tour of the nearby \u003ca href=\"http://www.haraguchiricemill.org/6701.html\" title=\"family-run taro farm \">family-run taro farm\u003c/a> which produced the purple-flecked delicacy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Following our guide through lush, windswept green fields among waving heart-shaped taro fronds, I learned that Hawaiian taro farmers face a host of challenges, including hurricanes, flash floods, hungry wild boar and an infestation of apple snails. But they persevere because taro has been a revered food in the islands for over a thousand years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, \u003ca href=\"http://www.aloha-hawaii.com/hawaii/taro/\" title=\"Hawaiian folklore\">Hawaiian folklore\u003c/a> considers taro to be “the elder brother” of all Hawaiians and since it is disrespectful to fight in front of an elder, when a bowl of poi is uncovered, all argument must stop. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taro\" title=\"Taro\">Taro\u003c/a> also happens to be one of the world’s earliest cultivated plants. Easily digestible, a good source of fiber, Vitamin C, E, B6, calcium, potassium and iron, it is featured in the cuisines of more than two-dozen countries from Brazil to China. Every part of the plant is cooked and consumed: leaves are stir-fried, steamed or made into soup; stems sautéed, boiled or ground; and the roots (technically termed corms) are steamed, fried, mashed, and appear in everything from appetizers to desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I said a tearful goodbye to my sweet little Hawaiian taro mochi cake and returned stateside, I set myself a quest -- I love quests -- to unearth (pardon the pun) a range of international dishes made from this worldwide staple. Shouldn’t be too hard in the mini-United Nations we call the East Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/fried-taro560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/fried-taro560.jpg\" alt=\"Fried Taro\" title=\"Fried Taro\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34164\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fried Taro Roll\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First stop: Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.greenpapayathai.com/index.html\" title=\"Green Papaya Thai Vegetarian Cuisine\">Green Papaya Thai Vegetarian Cuisine\u003c/a>, a pleasant café with a long menu, for their fried taro appetizer, a generous plate of warm sliced taro roll made with tapioca and rice flours and red beans. Deep-fried in a paper-thin sheet of bean curd, its crispy golden skin contrasts nicely with the creamy filling, in a typical lavender-taro-hue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taro plays a starring role in many Chinese dishes, including a taro cake traditionally eaten for Chinese New Years. Even McDonald’s has caught on; their restaurants in China sell taro pies. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two dim sum classics highlight the taro root. Squat squares of pan-fried taro cake are made from rice flour and dried scallops, shrimp, mushrooms and Chinese bacon or sausage. But the more eye-catching morsels are taro dumplings. These pork-filled balls have a wispy, lacy shell that results from deep-frying the thick coating of boiled mashed taro. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/taro-dumpling560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/taro-dumpling560.jpg\" alt=\"Taro Dumpling\" title=\"Taro Dumpling\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34168\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I recently sampled some yummy dumplings at \u003ca href=\"http://restaurantpeony.com/\" title=\"Peony\">Peony\u003c/a> in Oakland Chinatown; with their fluffy, crunchy coating, it was like biting into a crispy cloud. (Hint: for the best experience, ask for them to be brought piping hot). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vietnamese cuisine includes taro in spring rolls, soups, and desserts. Piedmont Avenue’s stylish \u003ca href=\"http://www.xyclorestaurant.com/Xyclorestaurant.com/Welcome.html\" title=\"Xyclo\">Xyclo\u003c/a> offers appetizers in which taro plays a supporting role; in their Xyclo roll, it’s tucked inside crispy, cigar shaped tubes along with finely chopped chicken, shrimp, carrots, mushrooms and glass noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/xyclo-roll.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/xyclo-roll.jpg\" alt=\"Xyclo roll\" title=\"Xyclo roll\" width=\"560\" height=\"485\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34170\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides poi, the sacred mixture of pounded taro root and water, the taro plant is an essential part of another Hawaiian culinary tradition: \u003cem>laulau\u003c/em>, which utilizes its leaves. Pork or chicken and salted butterfish are wrapped in taro leaves and then enfolded in inedible \u003cem>ti\u003c/em> leaves. The chunky green packages are steamed for several hours, turning the taro leaves to a soft, smoky (and vitamin rich) mush.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/laulau1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/laulau1.jpg\" alt=\"Laulau\" title=\"Laulau\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34171\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/wiki-wiki-hawaiian-berkeley\" title=\"Wiki Wiki Hawaiian BBQ\">Wiki Wiki Hawaiian BBQ\u003c/a> serves up hefty portions of island favorites to the starving-student crowd. My pork \u003cem>laulau\u003c/em> actually wasn’t too bad. When I inquired how they prepare it, I was told that frozen pre-made \u003cem>laulaus\u003c/em> are shipped from Hawaii. Have with scoop of rice and macaroni salad for the full island experience. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For an easy DIY luau, head to Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.tokyofish.net/\" title=\"Tokyo Fish Market\">Tokyo Fish Market\u003c/a>. They carry frozen Hawaiian pork or chicken \u003cem>laulau\u003c/em> with no added chemicals or preservatives. You steam them at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the sweet side, taro turns up in a myriad of mauve incarnations:\u003cbr>\nThe ubiquitous taro bubble tea drink originated in Taiwan. Taro powder provides a thickener, a nutty taste and the light purple color. I’m partial to the bubble tea at Albany’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/tay-tah-cafe-albany\" title=\"Tay Tah Cafe\">Tay Tah Café\u003c/a> on Solano Avenue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A warming Chinese dessert for a cold evening: chunks of cooked taro in a bowl of hot sago (think tapioca) pudding. My go-to unassuming Chinese dessert spot: Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/yummy-guide-oakland\" title=\"Yummy Guide\">Yummy Guide\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My teen-age daughter turned me on to my favorite taro treat: \u003ca href=\"http://www.yogurt-land.com/\" title=\"Yogurtland\">Yogurtland\u003c/a>’s taro frozen yogurt. One of the regular flavors in their two Berkeley locations, its tartness forms the perfect base for fruit and topping creations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/yogurtland.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/yogurtland.jpg\" alt=\"Yogurtland\" title=\"Yogurtland\" width=\"560\" height=\"251\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34166\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am not done trekking the taro trail; there are many ethnic taro specialties yet to taste:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ecplaza.net/news/0/17232/chuseok_delicacies_you.html\" title=\"Toranguk\">\u003cem>Toranguk\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, a Korean soup traditionally served at \u003cem>Chuseok\u003c/em>, the harvest holiday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sinigang\" title=\"Sinigang\">\u003cem>Sinigang\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, the tamarind-based national stew of the Philippines. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And a range of Indian regional dishes including leaf pancake, stem \u003cem>saag\u003c/em> and a spicy taro curry with prawn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyone know a good Maldivian restaurant? I hear natives of the Maldives (stunning islands in the Indian Ocean) eat their cooked taro with grated coconut, chili paste and fish soup.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://eastbayethniceats.com/2011/07/22/taro-treats-in-paradise/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/taro-mochi-3.jpg\" alt=\"Taro Mochi Cake\" title=\"Taro Mochi Cake\" width=\"500\" height=\"316\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34160\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Taro Mochi Cake from Hanalei Roadside Truck\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taro. Isn’t that some kind of sweet potato that’s made into expensive chips? Or a purplish goop, called poi, served at Hawaiian luaus that no one really eats?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I admit those were my assumptions until a recent trip to Kauai where I stumbled upon a divine sweet: a moist, spongy \u003ca href=\"http://eastbayethniceats.com/2011/07/22/taro-treats-in-paradise/\" title=\"taro mochi cake\">taro mochi cake\u003c/a> made with coconut milk and rice flour that I bought from a \u003ca href=\"http://www.hanaleitaro.com/\" title=\"roadside truck in Hanalei\">roadside truck in Hanalei\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So enamored was I with this enchanting taro treat, that I signed on for a tour of the nearby \u003ca href=\"http://www.haraguchiricemill.org/6701.html\" title=\"family-run taro farm \">family-run taro farm\u003c/a> which produced the purple-flecked delicacy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Following our guide through lush, windswept green fields among waving heart-shaped taro fronds, I learned that Hawaiian taro farmers face a host of challenges, including hurricanes, flash floods, hungry wild boar and an infestation of apple snails. But they persevere because taro has been a revered food in the islands for over a thousand years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, \u003ca href=\"http://www.aloha-hawaii.com/hawaii/taro/\" title=\"Hawaiian folklore\">Hawaiian folklore\u003c/a> considers taro to be “the elder brother” of all Hawaiians and since it is disrespectful to fight in front of an elder, when a bowl of poi is uncovered, all argument must stop. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taro\" title=\"Taro\">Taro\u003c/a> also happens to be one of the world’s earliest cultivated plants. Easily digestible, a good source of fiber, Vitamin C, E, B6, calcium, potassium and iron, it is featured in the cuisines of more than two-dozen countries from Brazil to China. Every part of the plant is cooked and consumed: leaves are stir-fried, steamed or made into soup; stems sautéed, boiled or ground; and the roots (technically termed corms) are steamed, fried, mashed, and appear in everything from appetizers to desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I said a tearful goodbye to my sweet little Hawaiian taro mochi cake and returned stateside, I set myself a quest -- I love quests -- to unearth (pardon the pun) a range of international dishes made from this worldwide staple. Shouldn’t be too hard in the mini-United Nations we call the East Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/fried-taro560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/fried-taro560.jpg\" alt=\"Fried Taro\" title=\"Fried Taro\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34164\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fried Taro Roll\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First stop: Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.greenpapayathai.com/index.html\" title=\"Green Papaya Thai Vegetarian Cuisine\">Green Papaya Thai Vegetarian Cuisine\u003c/a>, a pleasant café with a long menu, for their fried taro appetizer, a generous plate of warm sliced taro roll made with tapioca and rice flours and red beans. Deep-fried in a paper-thin sheet of bean curd, its crispy golden skin contrasts nicely with the creamy filling, in a typical lavender-taro-hue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taro plays a starring role in many Chinese dishes, including a taro cake traditionally eaten for Chinese New Years. Even McDonald’s has caught on; their restaurants in China sell taro pies. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two dim sum classics highlight the taro root. Squat squares of pan-fried taro cake are made from rice flour and dried scallops, shrimp, mushrooms and Chinese bacon or sausage. But the more eye-catching morsels are taro dumplings. These pork-filled balls have a wispy, lacy shell that results from deep-frying the thick coating of boiled mashed taro. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/taro-dumpling560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/taro-dumpling560.jpg\" alt=\"Taro Dumpling\" title=\"Taro Dumpling\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34168\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I recently sampled some yummy dumplings at \u003ca href=\"http://restaurantpeony.com/\" title=\"Peony\">Peony\u003c/a> in Oakland Chinatown; with their fluffy, crunchy coating, it was like biting into a crispy cloud. (Hint: for the best experience, ask for them to be brought piping hot). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vietnamese cuisine includes taro in spring rolls, soups, and desserts. Piedmont Avenue’s stylish \u003ca href=\"http://www.xyclorestaurant.com/Xyclorestaurant.com/Welcome.html\" title=\"Xyclo\">Xyclo\u003c/a> offers appetizers in which taro plays a supporting role; in their Xyclo roll, it’s tucked inside crispy, cigar shaped tubes along with finely chopped chicken, shrimp, carrots, mushrooms and glass noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/xyclo-roll.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/xyclo-roll.jpg\" alt=\"Xyclo roll\" title=\"Xyclo roll\" width=\"560\" height=\"485\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34170\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides poi, the sacred mixture of pounded taro root and water, the taro plant is an essential part of another Hawaiian culinary tradition: \u003cem>laulau\u003c/em>, which utilizes its leaves. Pork or chicken and salted butterfish are wrapped in taro leaves and then enfolded in inedible \u003cem>ti\u003c/em> leaves. The chunky green packages are steamed for several hours, turning the taro leaves to a soft, smoky (and vitamin rich) mush.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/laulau1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/laulau1.jpg\" alt=\"Laulau\" title=\"Laulau\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34171\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/wiki-wiki-hawaiian-berkeley\" title=\"Wiki Wiki Hawaiian BBQ\">Wiki Wiki Hawaiian BBQ\u003c/a> serves up hefty portions of island favorites to the starving-student crowd. My pork \u003cem>laulau\u003c/em> actually wasn’t too bad. When I inquired how they prepare it, I was told that frozen pre-made \u003cem>laulaus\u003c/em> are shipped from Hawaii. Have with scoop of rice and macaroni salad for the full island experience. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For an easy DIY luau, head to Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.tokyofish.net/\" title=\"Tokyo Fish Market\">Tokyo Fish Market\u003c/a>. They carry frozen Hawaiian pork or chicken \u003cem>laulau\u003c/em> with no added chemicals or preservatives. You steam them at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the sweet side, taro turns up in a myriad of mauve incarnations:\u003cbr>\nThe ubiquitous taro bubble tea drink originated in Taiwan. Taro powder provides a thickener, a nutty taste and the light purple color. I’m partial to the bubble tea at Albany’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/tay-tah-cafe-albany\" title=\"Tay Tah Cafe\">Tay Tah Café\u003c/a> on Solano Avenue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A warming Chinese dessert for a cold evening: chunks of cooked taro in a bowl of hot sago (think tapioca) pudding. My go-to unassuming Chinese dessert spot: Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/yummy-guide-oakland\" title=\"Yummy Guide\">Yummy Guide\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My teen-age daughter turned me on to my favorite taro treat: \u003ca href=\"http://www.yogurt-land.com/\" title=\"Yogurtland\">Yogurtland\u003c/a>’s taro frozen yogurt. One of the regular flavors in their two Berkeley locations, its tartness forms the perfect base for fruit and topping creations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/yogurtland.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/yogurtland.jpg\" alt=\"Yogurtland\" title=\"Yogurtland\" width=\"560\" height=\"251\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34166\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am not done trekking the taro trail; there are many ethnic taro specialties yet to taste:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ecplaza.net/news/0/17232/chuseok_delicacies_you.html\" title=\"Toranguk\">\u003cem>Toranguk\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, a Korean soup traditionally served at \u003cem>Chuseok\u003c/em>, the harvest holiday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sinigang\" title=\"Sinigang\">\u003cem>Sinigang\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, the tamarind-based national stew of the Philippines. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And a range of Indian regional dishes including leaf pancake, stem \u003cem>saag\u003c/em> and a spicy taro curry with prawn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyone know a good Maldivian restaurant? I hear natives of the Maldives (stunning islands in the Indian Ocean) eat their cooked taro with grated coconut, chili paste and fish soup.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Gabrielle Hamilton: Blood, Bones & Bombshells",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/blood-bones-bombshells.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/blood-bones-bombshells.jpg\" alt=\"Blood, Bones, Butter, Gabrielle Hamilton Photo: Melissa Hamilton\" title=\"Blood, Bones, Butter, Gabrielle Hamilton Photo: Melissa Hamilton\" width=\"507\" height=\"354\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34672\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Gabrielle Hamilton. Photo: Melissa Hamilton\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gabrielle Hamilton can write, there's no doubt about that. Craft infuses her recent bestseller, peppered as it is with references to both body and kitchen fluids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, this writer was reluctant to read the memoir of this reluctant chef. When a book like \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://bloodbonesandbutter.net/\">Blood, Bones & Butter\u003c/a>\u003c/em> gets so much advance praise it's hard to believe it can live up to the hype.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let's review, shall we? There was the excerpt in \u003cem>The New Yorker\u003c/em>, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2011/03/02/dining/02Hamilton.html?ref=review\">\u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> profile\u003c/a> and laudatory reviews from the paper of record by \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2011/02/25/books/25book.html?_r=1\">Michiko Kakutani\u003c/a> \u003cem>and\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2011/03/13/books/review/book-review-blood-bones-and-butter-by-gabrielle-hamilton.html?ref=books\">Frank Bruni\u003c/a>, along with glowing accounts in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2011/02/28/AR2011022805907.html\">\u003cem>Washington Post\u003c/em>\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748704900004576152672320375398.html\">\u003cem>Wall Street Journal\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. Of course, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.elle.com/Pop-Culture/Movies-TV-Music-Books/Gabrielle-Hamilton\">womens' glossies\u003c/a> weighed in with pleasure, as did the blogosphere, including the \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/03/01/stop-this-grill-i-want-to-get-off-or-do-i/\">Times\u003c/a>\u003c/em> (again), \u003ca href=\"http://5secondrule.typepad.com/my_weblog/reviews/\">5 Second Rule\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/03/01/book-review-blood-bones-butter-by-gabrielle-hamilton/\">Bay Area Bites\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Top chefs chimed in too: Her book boasts bubbly blurbs from \u003ca href=\"http://www.anthonybourdain.net/\">Bourdain\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariobatali.com/\">Batali\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.danielnyc.com/aboutDB.html\">Boulud\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Curious to find out what all the fuss was about, this reporter went to hear Hamilton speak at \u003ca href=\"http://omnivorebooks.com/\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> in March, when she swung through town on book tour, and again last Thursday, when she appeared on stage in conversation with \u003ca href=\"http://www.kimseverson.com/\">Kim Severson\u003c/a> as part of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cityarts.net/n.hamilton.html\">City Arts & Lecture series\u003c/a>. Oh, and in between this reporter devoured her almost 300-page coming-of-age story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book is an indisputable page turner, but let's dispose of one major beef up front: The last section -- \"Butter\" -- feels rushed and not ready for prime time, in large part because the central concern -- the unraveling of her lonely marriage -- was not resolved in real time. No matter, the publisher wanted that memoir hitting the shelves pronto and mass marketing waits for no one. (Hamilton said Thursday that she's since addressed the marriage matter -- in life and on the page in an epilogue for the paperback edition, available in January.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clearly, the woman has a talent with pots and pens. The owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.prunerestaurant.com/\">Prune\u003c/a>, a wildly popular little bistro in Manhattan's East Village, (the restaurant's title comes from a childhood nickname), Hamilton recently won a \u003ca href=\"http://www.jbfawards.com/2011/nominees.php\">James Beard Award\u003c/a> for best New York City chef after receiving nominations for the coveted title three years running. (Though \u003ca href=\"http://www.time.com/time/nation/article/0,8599,2070677,00.html\">some grumbled\u003c/a> that the gal who serves Triscuits and canned sardines at the bar won more for what she represents than what she cooks.) She's written about the chef's life for \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bonappetit.com/magazine/2011/05/gabrielle-hamilton-family-meal\">Bon Appetit\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bonappetit.com/magazine/2011/05/gabrielle-hamilton-family-meal\">\u003c/a>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/a-rogue-chef-tells-all\">Food & Wine\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/Kitchen/Gabrielle-Hamilton-Open-House\">Saveur\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, where her sister \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/12/02/dining/02canal.html\">Melissa Hamilton\u003c/a> was an editor, and appeared in six volumes of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Best-Food-Writing-Holly-Hughes/dp/073821518X\">\u003cem>Best Food Writing\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.prunerestaurant.com/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/prune-screenshot560.jpg\" alt=\"Prune restaurant\" title=\"Prune restaurant\" width=\"560\" height=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34676\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hamilton has worked hard and overcome obstacles to get to the top of her game, in two creative fields no less. She survived a largely feral childhood followed by a drug-fueled, unsupervised adolescence, turned to cooking to find family, home, hope, structure, and salvation and wound up, on a whim, running a restaurant of her own. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She's not interested in glamorizing either pursuit. If anything she has a tendency to martyrdom: Hamilton recounts cleaning human excrement off the restaurant stoop and deposing of a dead rat riddled with maggots found on the back steps. She turns hundreds of eggs on the breakfast line, while major-league pregnant and, later, with babies clinging to her breast. Her autobiography, a decade in the making, is scribbled on brown paper between services, on subway rides, and while putting those babes to bed. There is never enough time or sleep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Professionally, Hamilton is a big talent and a huge success. Her personal life, as she reveals in her book, is a bit messier. Estranged from her mother for decades, she identifies as lesbian but ditched the sisterhood for a clandestine affair with an Italian man she ends up marrying. He is the father of her two boys, though from the beginning of their coupling trouble is brewing. For starters, Hamilton seems more in love with his mother and summer visits to the Italian clan's compound than her actual husband. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These personal revelations would seem meaty subjects for seasoned interviewer Kim Severson in her City Arts & Lectures discussion with Hamilton. But Severson -- now the \u003cem>New York Times'\u003c/em> Atlanta bureau chief who appears to keep her hand in the food beat and her heart in San Francisco -- was in a tricky situation. Just days before Hamilton landed in town the \u003cem>New York Post\u003c/em> had dropped \u003ca href=\"http://www.nypost.com/p/pagesix/prune_chef_in_secret_affair_W65bU4XOt1FWNlYe9xQF9L\">a bombshell about the celebrity chef's love life\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, who Hamilton sleeps with is really nobody else's business, except that her memoir includes revelations about her adventures in the sack as well as an apron. And Hamilton talks a lot about the value of being honest and authentic in the kitchen and on the page. To top it off, the \u003cem>New York Post\u003c/em> item on Hamilton was \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/2011/10/amidst_rumored_scandal_nyc_che.html\">recycled in the local food media\u003c/a> the day before her appearance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Severson gave a nod to the matter early on in the chat: \"I'm going to ask you the question on everyone's minds, [theatrical pause] How do you keep your skin so dewy?\" That set the tone for an evening of mostly softballs from Severson, who made a running gag about not being \"bitter\" that Hamilton's memoir was a better read than her own, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://kimseverson.com/index.php/site/books/\">Spoon Fed\u003c/a>\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>Times\u003c/em> staffer did try some shock value, noting the book's unusual intimacy, which a friend described to Severson this way: \"I feel like I know every fold in her vagina.\" But she quickly found herself in the role of comforting colleague, after an earthquake literally shook the subdued Hamilton, who looked like she wanted to bolt from the stage when things started rocking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few sips of wine later, however, Hamilton regained her composure and temporarily shut down Severson, as she meandered through her self-described cliched questions. Case in point: \"What's the last taste you would want in your mouth before you die?\" Surely not the first time Hamilton's fielded that query.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I thought we were going to have an intelligent conversation about writing and you want to know if I keep lube in my bedside table,\" Hamilton scolded at one point. Note to \u003ca href=\"http://www.cityarts.net/radio.hunt.html\">Linda Hunt\u003c/a>: Not all KQED subscribers may be amused by the repartee between these two, who wondered if any couple, regardless of orientation, can keep sex alive in a long-term relationship -- though, it must be said, the crowd at Herbst Theater ate it up. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the audience Q&A fans gushed about how much they loved Hamilton's book, even if they hadn't finished it, and her restaurant, even if they hadn't eaten there yet. In such an environment, this reporter felt it would have been a hostile act to ask the writer-chef if she cared to comment about the recent allegations in the press. Instead, she opted for the more discreet email follow up to both Hamilton and Severson, neither of whom jumped at the opportunity to explain why the subject wasn't broached on stage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hardly surprising. Hamilton made it clear at her book signing at Omnivore that she's selective about what aspects of her private life the public get to know about through her writing. Her mantra: If it's not in there, it's not tellable -- readers don't get all of her. Fair enough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's this kind of contradiction -- the tell-all that keeps secrets -- that makes Hamilton such a fascinating creature. She's full of inconsistencies -- aren't we all? -- only hers are on display for all the world to see and hear. Hamilton often says she loathes being called \"a female chef\" and yet when TV came calling looking for just such a demographic, she jumped at the chance to take one for the team. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similarly she thinks the term \"food writer\" is demeaning; she's simply a chef who is also a scribe and cooking is what allowed her to come to the party. Yet, when asked what readers can expect next from the literary writer she responds: A cookbook. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the talk Hamilton mentions the moms at her sons' school, who she says look at her disdainfully as she drops off her kids. Her children eat poorly and often in the car on the way to school, she confesses. And yet, one can't help but get the impression that the 45-year-old looks down her nose at \u003cem>them\u003c/em>. Severson counters that perhaps the other moms are intimidated or awed by the successful chef with the best-selling memoir but Hamilton dismisses this notion out of hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the Beard Award is silly, Hamilton says, until she wins it, and then it's the most important culinary honor a chef can earn. Thankfully she has a sense of humor about all this flip-flopping.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.jbfawards.com/2011/nominees.php\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/james-beard-hamilton560.jpg\" alt=\"Gabrielle Hamilton winning James Beard Award \" title=\"Gabrielle Hamilton winning James Beard Award \" width=\"560\" height=\"371\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34680\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One gets the sense that Hamilton doesn't give a hoot if you like her, agree with her opinions, or want to read her book. It's what makes her intriguing and may well be an essential part of why she's so talented on the page and in the kitchen. She's just doing her own thing and not seeking anyone else's praise or approval.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the course of the 90-minute City Arts & Lectures dialogue she laments the fetishization of food (the cult of farmers' markets, home cooks with \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/10/23/141611844/self-starters-eat-up-slow-cooking-technique\">sous vide\u003c/a> machines), discussions of gender issues in restaurant kitchens (snoozeville), and the plethora of social media around food culture. Reading about food online, she says, is like eating at McDonalds. \"You end up feeling hungry, undernourished, tired, and full of self loathing.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She's also down on the rise of reality TV cooking shows, even though she's had her own turn in front of the camera. (She slayed \u003ca href=\"http://www.bobbyflay.com/\">Bobby Flay\u003c/a> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/iron-chef-america/index.html\">\"Iron Chef\"\u003c/a>). \"It's starting to suck for all of us, since TV isn't about cooking it's about entertaining,\" says Hamilton. \"It's impossible to be quiet or subtle with food on television because actual cooking is really quite dull and repetitive.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plans for a movie based on the memoir are already in the works, Hamilton told fans Thursday. She jokes she'd like to see Robert Downey Jr. play her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That seems about right. Hamilton has balls. And a muscularity to her convictions and craft that the actor could convey handsomely. Audiences with a taste for Hamilton's contrarian ways might just go for such gender-bending casting. Stay tuned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Listen to the conversation between Gabrielle Hamilton and Kim Severson \u003ca href=\"http://cityarts.net/radio-broadcasts/\">broadcast on KQED Sunday, November 27 at 1 p.m.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/blood-bones-bombshells.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/blood-bones-bombshells.jpg\" alt=\"Blood, Bones, Butter, Gabrielle Hamilton Photo: Melissa Hamilton\" title=\"Blood, Bones, Butter, Gabrielle Hamilton Photo: Melissa Hamilton\" width=\"507\" height=\"354\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34672\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Gabrielle Hamilton. Photo: Melissa Hamilton\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gabrielle Hamilton can write, there's no doubt about that. Craft infuses her recent bestseller, peppered as it is with references to both body and kitchen fluids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, this writer was reluctant to read the memoir of this reluctant chef. When a book like \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://bloodbonesandbutter.net/\">Blood, Bones & Butter\u003c/a>\u003c/em> gets so much advance praise it's hard to believe it can live up to the hype.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let's review, shall we? There was the excerpt in \u003cem>The New Yorker\u003c/em>, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2011/03/02/dining/02Hamilton.html?ref=review\">\u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> profile\u003c/a> and laudatory reviews from the paper of record by \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2011/02/25/books/25book.html?_r=1\">Michiko Kakutani\u003c/a> \u003cem>and\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2011/03/13/books/review/book-review-blood-bones-and-butter-by-gabrielle-hamilton.html?ref=books\">Frank Bruni\u003c/a>, along with glowing accounts in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2011/02/28/AR2011022805907.html\">\u003cem>Washington Post\u003c/em>\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748704900004576152672320375398.html\">\u003cem>Wall Street Journal\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. Of course, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.elle.com/Pop-Culture/Movies-TV-Music-Books/Gabrielle-Hamilton\">womens' glossies\u003c/a> weighed in with pleasure, as did the blogosphere, including the \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/03/01/stop-this-grill-i-want-to-get-off-or-do-i/\">Times\u003c/a>\u003c/em> (again), \u003ca href=\"http://5secondrule.typepad.com/my_weblog/reviews/\">5 Second Rule\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/03/01/book-review-blood-bones-butter-by-gabrielle-hamilton/\">Bay Area Bites\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Top chefs chimed in too: Her book boasts bubbly blurbs from \u003ca href=\"http://www.anthonybourdain.net/\">Bourdain\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariobatali.com/\">Batali\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.danielnyc.com/aboutDB.html\">Boulud\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Curious to find out what all the fuss was about, this reporter went to hear Hamilton speak at \u003ca href=\"http://omnivorebooks.com/\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> in March, when she swung through town on book tour, and again last Thursday, when she appeared on stage in conversation with \u003ca href=\"http://www.kimseverson.com/\">Kim Severson\u003c/a> as part of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cityarts.net/n.hamilton.html\">City Arts & Lecture series\u003c/a>. Oh, and in between this reporter devoured her almost 300-page coming-of-age story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book is an indisputable page turner, but let's dispose of one major beef up front: The last section -- \"Butter\" -- feels rushed and not ready for prime time, in large part because the central concern -- the unraveling of her lonely marriage -- was not resolved in real time. No matter, the publisher wanted that memoir hitting the shelves pronto and mass marketing waits for no one. (Hamilton said Thursday that she's since addressed the marriage matter -- in life and on the page in an epilogue for the paperback edition, available in January.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clearly, the woman has a talent with pots and pens. The owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.prunerestaurant.com/\">Prune\u003c/a>, a wildly popular little bistro in Manhattan's East Village, (the restaurant's title comes from a childhood nickname), Hamilton recently won a \u003ca href=\"http://www.jbfawards.com/2011/nominees.php\">James Beard Award\u003c/a> for best New York City chef after receiving nominations for the coveted title three years running. (Though \u003ca href=\"http://www.time.com/time/nation/article/0,8599,2070677,00.html\">some grumbled\u003c/a> that the gal who serves Triscuits and canned sardines at the bar won more for what she represents than what she cooks.) She's written about the chef's life for \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bonappetit.com/magazine/2011/05/gabrielle-hamilton-family-meal\">Bon Appetit\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bonappetit.com/magazine/2011/05/gabrielle-hamilton-family-meal\">\u003c/a>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/a-rogue-chef-tells-all\">Food & Wine\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/Kitchen/Gabrielle-Hamilton-Open-House\">Saveur\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, where her sister \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/12/02/dining/02canal.html\">Melissa Hamilton\u003c/a> was an editor, and appeared in six volumes of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Best-Food-Writing-Holly-Hughes/dp/073821518X\">\u003cem>Best Food Writing\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.prunerestaurant.com/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/prune-screenshot560.jpg\" alt=\"Prune restaurant\" title=\"Prune restaurant\" width=\"560\" height=\"277\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34676\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hamilton has worked hard and overcome obstacles to get to the top of her game, in two creative fields no less. She survived a largely feral childhood followed by a drug-fueled, unsupervised adolescence, turned to cooking to find family, home, hope, structure, and salvation and wound up, on a whim, running a restaurant of her own. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She's not interested in glamorizing either pursuit. If anything she has a tendency to martyrdom: Hamilton recounts cleaning human excrement off the restaurant stoop and deposing of a dead rat riddled with maggots found on the back steps. She turns hundreds of eggs on the breakfast line, while major-league pregnant and, later, with babies clinging to her breast. Her autobiography, a decade in the making, is scribbled on brown paper between services, on subway rides, and while putting those babes to bed. There is never enough time or sleep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Professionally, Hamilton is a big talent and a huge success. Her personal life, as she reveals in her book, is a bit messier. Estranged from her mother for decades, she identifies as lesbian but ditched the sisterhood for a clandestine affair with an Italian man she ends up marrying. He is the father of her two boys, though from the beginning of their coupling trouble is brewing. For starters, Hamilton seems more in love with his mother and summer visits to the Italian clan's compound than her actual husband. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These personal revelations would seem meaty subjects for seasoned interviewer Kim Severson in her City Arts & Lectures discussion with Hamilton. But Severson -- now the \u003cem>New York Times'\u003c/em> Atlanta bureau chief who appears to keep her hand in the food beat and her heart in San Francisco -- was in a tricky situation. Just days before Hamilton landed in town the \u003cem>New York Post\u003c/em> had dropped \u003ca href=\"http://www.nypost.com/p/pagesix/prune_chef_in_secret_affair_W65bU4XOt1FWNlYe9xQF9L\">a bombshell about the celebrity chef's love life\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, who Hamilton sleeps with is really nobody else's business, except that her memoir includes revelations about her adventures in the sack as well as an apron. And Hamilton talks a lot about the value of being honest and authentic in the kitchen and on the page. To top it off, the \u003cem>New York Post\u003c/em> item on Hamilton was \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/2011/10/amidst_rumored_scandal_nyc_che.html\">recycled in the local food media\u003c/a> the day before her appearance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Severson gave a nod to the matter early on in the chat: \"I'm going to ask you the question on everyone's minds, [theatrical pause] How do you keep your skin so dewy?\" That set the tone for an evening of mostly softballs from Severson, who made a running gag about not being \"bitter\" that Hamilton's memoir was a better read than her own, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://kimseverson.com/index.php/site/books/\">Spoon Fed\u003c/a>\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>Times\u003c/em> staffer did try some shock value, noting the book's unusual intimacy, which a friend described to Severson this way: \"I feel like I know every fold in her vagina.\" But she quickly found herself in the role of comforting colleague, after an earthquake literally shook the subdued Hamilton, who looked like she wanted to bolt from the stage when things started rocking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few sips of wine later, however, Hamilton regained her composure and temporarily shut down Severson, as she meandered through her self-described cliched questions. Case in point: \"What's the last taste you would want in your mouth before you die?\" Surely not the first time Hamilton's fielded that query.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I thought we were going to have an intelligent conversation about writing and you want to know if I keep lube in my bedside table,\" Hamilton scolded at one point. Note to \u003ca href=\"http://www.cityarts.net/radio.hunt.html\">Linda Hunt\u003c/a>: Not all KQED subscribers may be amused by the repartee between these two, who wondered if any couple, regardless of orientation, can keep sex alive in a long-term relationship -- though, it must be said, the crowd at Herbst Theater ate it up. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the audience Q&A fans gushed about how much they loved Hamilton's book, even if they hadn't finished it, and her restaurant, even if they hadn't eaten there yet. In such an environment, this reporter felt it would have been a hostile act to ask the writer-chef if she cared to comment about the recent allegations in the press. Instead, she opted for the more discreet email follow up to both Hamilton and Severson, neither of whom jumped at the opportunity to explain why the subject wasn't broached on stage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hardly surprising. Hamilton made it clear at her book signing at Omnivore that she's selective about what aspects of her private life the public get to know about through her writing. Her mantra: If it's not in there, it's not tellable -- readers don't get all of her. Fair enough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's this kind of contradiction -- the tell-all that keeps secrets -- that makes Hamilton such a fascinating creature. She's full of inconsistencies -- aren't we all? -- only hers are on display for all the world to see and hear. Hamilton often says she loathes being called \"a female chef\" and yet when TV came calling looking for just such a demographic, she jumped at the chance to take one for the team. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similarly she thinks the term \"food writer\" is demeaning; she's simply a chef who is also a scribe and cooking is what allowed her to come to the party. Yet, when asked what readers can expect next from the literary writer she responds: A cookbook. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the talk Hamilton mentions the moms at her sons' school, who she says look at her disdainfully as she drops off her kids. Her children eat poorly and often in the car on the way to school, she confesses. And yet, one can't help but get the impression that the 45-year-old looks down her nose at \u003cem>them\u003c/em>. Severson counters that perhaps the other moms are intimidated or awed by the successful chef with the best-selling memoir but Hamilton dismisses this notion out of hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the Beard Award is silly, Hamilton says, until she wins it, and then it's the most important culinary honor a chef can earn. Thankfully she has a sense of humor about all this flip-flopping.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.jbfawards.com/2011/nominees.php\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/james-beard-hamilton560.jpg\" alt=\"Gabrielle Hamilton winning James Beard Award \" title=\"Gabrielle Hamilton winning James Beard Award \" width=\"560\" height=\"371\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34680\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One gets the sense that Hamilton doesn't give a hoot if you like her, agree with her opinions, or want to read her book. It's what makes her intriguing and may well be an essential part of why she's so talented on the page and in the kitchen. She's just doing her own thing and not seeking anyone else's praise or approval.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the course of the 90-minute City Arts & Lectures dialogue she laments the fetishization of food (the cult of farmers' markets, home cooks with \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/10/23/141611844/self-starters-eat-up-slow-cooking-technique\">sous vide\u003c/a> machines), discussions of gender issues in restaurant kitchens (snoozeville), and the plethora of social media around food culture. Reading about food online, she says, is like eating at McDonalds. \"You end up feeling hungry, undernourished, tired, and full of self loathing.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She's also down on the rise of reality TV cooking shows, even though she's had her own turn in front of the camera. (She slayed \u003ca href=\"http://www.bobbyflay.com/\">Bobby Flay\u003c/a> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/iron-chef-america/index.html\">\"Iron Chef\"\u003c/a>). \"It's starting to suck for all of us, since TV isn't about cooking it's about entertaining,\" says Hamilton. \"It's impossible to be quiet or subtle with food on television because actual cooking is really quite dull and repetitive.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plans for a movie based on the memoir are already in the works, Hamilton told fans Thursday. She jokes she'd like to see Robert Downey Jr. play her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That seems about right. Hamilton has balls. And a muscularity to her convictions and craft that the actor could convey handsomely. Audiences with a taste for Hamilton's contrarian ways might just go for such gender-bending casting. Stay tuned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Listen to the conversation between Gabrielle Hamilton and Kim Severson \u003ca href=\"http://cityarts.net/radio-broadcasts/\">broadcast on KQED Sunday, November 27 at 1 p.m.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Umami Burger Comes To The Bay Area",
"title": "Umami Burger Comes To The Bay Area",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150273.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150273-e1318697977247.jpg\" alt=\"umami burger restaurant\" title=\"umami burger restaurant\" width=\"549\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34273\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it's a beautiful, summer-like Friday night in October, it's probably one of the most challenging times to try and get a table anywhere in the Marina without a reservation. But while some folks are willing to stand in line and \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RG32kf_ttnk\" title=\"iPhone 4S\">wait for hours for the new iPhone 4S\u003c/a>, I was committed to getting into the new location of \u003ca href=\"http://umamiburger.com/menu/#6Union-SF\" title=\"Umami Burger\">Umami Burger\u003c/a>, the famed mini-empire from Los Angeles. As I'd never had the opportunity to try one of their much-ballyhooed burgers down in SoCal, I was looking forward to finally sampling their fare. They had opened their doors on October 7, much to the delight of the Bay Area foodie crowd which has already packed \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/umami-burger-san-francisco?rpp=40&sort_by=relevance_desc\">Yelp\u003c/a> with their reviews with its first week. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I rounded up some fellow colleagues from KQED (one who jokingly refers to herself as a \"meatoutatarian,\" which means she'll only eat red meat when out dining) to join me in line. I'm glad I had the company of my colleagues as the wait was long: over an hour and a half long. Granted, as mentioned before, it was Friday night and the hype factor was in full effect, but some seating snafus at the front of the house had our party of three overlooked and not called when we were next in line. The hostesses were cheerful for the most part -- as cheerful as they could be while wrangling the horde milling about the front door -- and we were finally seated in the back of the restaurant. (If you're a lucky duo, you'll get one of the sidewalk tables that's out front while this lovely weather lasts.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Union Street location of Umami Burger is housed in the former location of \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/jovino-san-francisco\">Jovino\u003c/a>. (According to one of my KQED colleagues who lives in the neighborhood and had dined their regularly, they were also known for their excellent burgers during its run.) The interior space itself has a spare, Asian aesthetic with wood accents and muted colors. The noise isn't overpowering, even when packed to full capacity was it was tonight. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150277.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150277-e1318698032413.jpg\" alt=\"umami burger menu\" title=\"umami burger menu\" width=\"550\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34279\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After we settled in, our server asked if this was our first time dining at the restaurant, then gave us an explanation of the meaning of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Umami\" title=\"umami\">\"umami\"\u003c/a> and their mission statement. We ordered an array of burgers to share: the Greenbird ($12), the Umami Burger ($11), and their priciest, most decadent item, the Bacon-Wrapped Scallop Burger ($15, topped with crispy pork belly and only available at this location). I was curious about their Cali Burger and its \"house-made American cheese,\" and apparently there's some cheese alchemy involved as they create their own special blend of cheeses in the kitchen (which are not made from scratch). Sides are ordered separately, and during our wait I had spotted other diners eating tater tots. Our server explained that these \"cheesy tater tots\" were now a secret menu item since they often sold out but were available for the asking. We ordered those along with a side of truffled cheese fries. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fried items arrived first, and we dipped them into the Asian soup spoon filled with their house-made Umami ketchup. They were both delicious, especially the tater tots, which were crispy on the outside and the texture and flavor of creamy mashed potatoes on the inside. Later on we also asked for their complimentary jalapeño ranch sauce (which wasn't really appealing to any of us as it was reminiscent of cheap nacho chips) and the garlic aioli (fantastic). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150280-e1318698076482.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150280-e1318698115860.jpg\" alt=\"cheesy tater tots\" title=\"cheesy tater tots\" width=\"550\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34278\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150283.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150283-e1318698151820.jpg\" alt=\"truffled fries\" title=\"truffled fries\" width=\"550\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34274\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150290.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150290-e1318698185191.jpg\" alt=\"umami condiments\" title=\"umami condiments\" width=\"550\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34281\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then the burgers came shortly thereafter, and they were impressively plated on large white dishes with a \"U\" stamped on top of their brioche-like buns. The medium-rare, juicy Umami Burger was definitely our favorite, as the shiitake mushrooms, caramelized onions, roasted tomato, parmesan crisp, and umami ketchup toppings delivered a wonderfully savory combination as promised. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_34277\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 550px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150289.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150289-e1318698237585.jpg\" alt=\"bacon-wrapped scallop and umami burgers\" title=\"bacon-wrapped scallop and umami burgers\" width=\"550\" height=\"309\" class=\"size-full wp-image-34277\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Bacon-Wrapped Scallop Burger on the left, Umami Burger on the right.\u003c/em>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was partial to the Greenbird next; the Shelton Farms turkey had been seasoned with a blend of spices that made it taste unlike any other I'd ever had. It was truly original and delicious, and accompanied with avocado, green cheese (more house-made cheese magic from the kitchen), butter lettuce, green goddess dressing and sprouts. My colleague was curious about these sprouts as they had had black seeds; our server had assumed they were alfalfa sprouts, but after some inquiries were made to the kitchen it was determined they were \u003ca href=\"http://www.hsco.com.au/products-onion.html\" title=\"onion sprouts\">onion sprouts\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150287-e1318698271896.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150287-e1318698271896.jpg\" alt=\"greenbird burger\" title=\"greenbird burger\" width=\"550\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34280\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, I wasn't as impressed with the Bacon-Wrapped Scallop Burger, which had two lean slices of somewhat tough pork belly dressed with a sweet chili sauce and yuzu-garlic aioli on top of the scallop patty (which reminded me more of a fried egg than scallops). The blend of flavors just didn't match up to the Umami Burger and I was disappointed with the quality of the pork belly; I'll have to try it again in the future to see if it holds up on another occasion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150284.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150284-e1318698390292.jpg\" alt=\"bacon-wrapped scallop burger\" title=\"bacon-wrapped scallop burger\" width=\"550\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34275\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although we were stuffed, we ended our meal with one of their house-made ice cream sandwiches as the peanut-butter cookie made with salt-and-pepper ice cream (the flavor of that day which are rotated regularly) piqued our curiosity. The cookies were quite crisp and thus made it difficult to share (I think it's better as a solo dessert) and the ice cream had a vinegar tang to it instead of a peppery quality we were expecting. Not outstanding, but definitely not the main draw of the restaurant, either.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150293.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150293-e1318698425185.jpg\" alt=\"peanut butter cookie ice cream sandwich\" title=\"peanut butter cookie ice cream sandwich\" width=\"550\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34276\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So did I find it to be worth the wait? Yes, although I probably won't head back anytime soon unless it's during the presumably quieter hours of the weekday. And our bill ended up at $34 each (we'd also ordered one drink apiece), so it's not like a cheap run to \u003ca href=\"http://www.in-n-out.com/\" title=\"In-N-Out\">In-N-Out\u003c/a>. But I'd love to try some of their other items off the menu, especially the Cali and Veggie Burgers, which are only available at the Union Street location. If you don't have the stomach to wait for too long, walk up to the bar and order to-go. We saw one lucky resident who lived right next door walk in, pick up his order and slipped right back upstairs for private dining in his apartment. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://umamiburger.com/menu/#6Union-SF\">Umami Burger\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2184 Union St at Fillmore \u003ca href=\"http://g.co/maps/vtw55\" title=\"map\">map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n415-440-UMAMI\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/UmamiBurgerSF\">@UmamiBurgerSF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Umamiburger\">Umami Burger\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSun-Thurs: 11AM-10PM\u003cbr>\nFri and Sat: 11AM-10PM\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "While some folks are willing to stand in line and wait for hours for the new iPhone 4s, I was committed to getting into the new location of Umami Burger, the famed mini-empire from Los Angeles.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150273.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150273-e1318697977247.jpg\" alt=\"umami burger restaurant\" title=\"umami burger restaurant\" width=\"549\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34273\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it's a beautiful, summer-like Friday night in October, it's probably one of the most challenging times to try and get a table anywhere in the Marina without a reservation. But while some folks are willing to stand in line and \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RG32kf_ttnk\" title=\"iPhone 4S\">wait for hours for the new iPhone 4S\u003c/a>, I was committed to getting into the new location of \u003ca href=\"http://umamiburger.com/menu/#6Union-SF\" title=\"Umami Burger\">Umami Burger\u003c/a>, the famed mini-empire from Los Angeles. As I'd never had the opportunity to try one of their much-ballyhooed burgers down in SoCal, I was looking forward to finally sampling their fare. They had opened their doors on October 7, much to the delight of the Bay Area foodie crowd which has already packed \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/umami-burger-san-francisco?rpp=40&sort_by=relevance_desc\">Yelp\u003c/a> with their reviews with its first week. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I rounded up some fellow colleagues from KQED (one who jokingly refers to herself as a \"meatoutatarian,\" which means she'll only eat red meat when out dining) to join me in line. I'm glad I had the company of my colleagues as the wait was long: over an hour and a half long. Granted, as mentioned before, it was Friday night and the hype factor was in full effect, but some seating snafus at the front of the house had our party of three overlooked and not called when we were next in line. The hostesses were cheerful for the most part -- as cheerful as they could be while wrangling the horde milling about the front door -- and we were finally seated in the back of the restaurant. (If you're a lucky duo, you'll get one of the sidewalk tables that's out front while this lovely weather lasts.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Union Street location of Umami Burger is housed in the former location of \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/jovino-san-francisco\">Jovino\u003c/a>. (According to one of my KQED colleagues who lives in the neighborhood and had dined their regularly, they were also known for their excellent burgers during its run.) The interior space itself has a spare, Asian aesthetic with wood accents and muted colors. The noise isn't overpowering, even when packed to full capacity was it was tonight. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150277.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150277-e1318698032413.jpg\" alt=\"umami burger menu\" title=\"umami burger menu\" width=\"550\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34279\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After we settled in, our server asked if this was our first time dining at the restaurant, then gave us an explanation of the meaning of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Umami\" title=\"umami\">\"umami\"\u003c/a> and their mission statement. We ordered an array of burgers to share: the Greenbird ($12), the Umami Burger ($11), and their priciest, most decadent item, the Bacon-Wrapped Scallop Burger ($15, topped with crispy pork belly and only available at this location). I was curious about their Cali Burger and its \"house-made American cheese,\" and apparently there's some cheese alchemy involved as they create their own special blend of cheeses in the kitchen (which are not made from scratch). Sides are ordered separately, and during our wait I had spotted other diners eating tater tots. Our server explained that these \"cheesy tater tots\" were now a secret menu item since they often sold out but were available for the asking. We ordered those along with a side of truffled cheese fries. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fried items arrived first, and we dipped them into the Asian soup spoon filled with their house-made Umami ketchup. They were both delicious, especially the tater tots, which were crispy on the outside and the texture and flavor of creamy mashed potatoes on the inside. Later on we also asked for their complimentary jalapeño ranch sauce (which wasn't really appealing to any of us as it was reminiscent of cheap nacho chips) and the garlic aioli (fantastic). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150280-e1318698076482.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150280-e1318698115860.jpg\" alt=\"cheesy tater tots\" title=\"cheesy tater tots\" width=\"550\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34278\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150283.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150283-e1318698151820.jpg\" alt=\"truffled fries\" title=\"truffled fries\" width=\"550\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34274\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150290.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150290-e1318698185191.jpg\" alt=\"umami condiments\" title=\"umami condiments\" width=\"550\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34281\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then the burgers came shortly thereafter, and they were impressively plated on large white dishes with a \"U\" stamped on top of their brioche-like buns. The medium-rare, juicy Umami Burger was definitely our favorite, as the shiitake mushrooms, caramelized onions, roasted tomato, parmesan crisp, and umami ketchup toppings delivered a wonderfully savory combination as promised. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_34277\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 550px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150289.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150289-e1318698237585.jpg\" alt=\"bacon-wrapped scallop and umami burgers\" title=\"bacon-wrapped scallop and umami burgers\" width=\"550\" height=\"309\" class=\"size-full wp-image-34277\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Bacon-Wrapped Scallop Burger on the left, Umami Burger on the right.\u003c/em>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was partial to the Greenbird next; the Shelton Farms turkey had been seasoned with a blend of spices that made it taste unlike any other I'd ever had. It was truly original and delicious, and accompanied with avocado, green cheese (more house-made cheese magic from the kitchen), butter lettuce, green goddess dressing and sprouts. My colleague was curious about these sprouts as they had had black seeds; our server had assumed they were alfalfa sprouts, but after some inquiries were made to the kitchen it was determined they were \u003ca href=\"http://www.hsco.com.au/products-onion.html\" title=\"onion sprouts\">onion sprouts\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150287-e1318698271896.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150287-e1318698271896.jpg\" alt=\"greenbird burger\" title=\"greenbird burger\" width=\"550\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34280\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, I wasn't as impressed with the Bacon-Wrapped Scallop Burger, which had two lean slices of somewhat tough pork belly dressed with a sweet chili sauce and yuzu-garlic aioli on top of the scallop patty (which reminded me more of a fried egg than scallops). The blend of flavors just didn't match up to the Umami Burger and I was disappointed with the quality of the pork belly; I'll have to try it again in the future to see if it holds up on another occasion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150284.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150284-e1318698390292.jpg\" alt=\"bacon-wrapped scallop burger\" title=\"bacon-wrapped scallop burger\" width=\"550\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34275\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although we were stuffed, we ended our meal with one of their house-made ice cream sandwiches as the peanut-butter cookie made with salt-and-pepper ice cream (the flavor of that day which are rotated regularly) piqued our curiosity. The cookies were quite crisp and thus made it difficult to share (I think it's better as a solo dessert) and the ice cream had a vinegar tang to it instead of a peppery quality we were expecting. Not outstanding, but definitely not the main draw of the restaurant, either.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150293.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150293-e1318698425185.jpg\" alt=\"peanut butter cookie ice cream sandwich\" title=\"peanut butter cookie ice cream sandwich\" width=\"550\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34276\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So did I find it to be worth the wait? Yes, although I probably won't head back anytime soon unless it's during the presumably quieter hours of the weekday. And our bill ended up at $34 each (we'd also ordered one drink apiece), so it's not like a cheap run to \u003ca href=\"http://www.in-n-out.com/\" title=\"In-N-Out\">In-N-Out\u003c/a>. But I'd love to try some of their other items off the menu, especially the Cali and Veggie Burgers, which are only available at the Union Street location. If you don't have the stomach to wait for too long, walk up to the bar and order to-go. We saw one lucky resident who lived right next door walk in, pick up his order and slipped right back upstairs for private dining in his apartment. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://umamiburger.com/menu/#6Union-SF\">Umami Burger\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2184 Union St at Fillmore \u003ca href=\"http://g.co/maps/vtw55\" title=\"map\">map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n415-440-UMAMI\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/UmamiBurgerSF\">@UmamiBurgerSF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Umamiburger\">Umami Burger\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSun-Thurs: 11AM-10PM\u003cbr>\nFri and Sat: 11AM-10PM\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Rawdance Brings A Public Affair to Orson Restaurant",
"title": "Rawdance Brings A Public Affair to Orson Restaurant",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/RAWdanceOrson400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/RAWdanceOrson400.jpg\" alt=\"The pair behind A Public Affair play with their food. Photo: Dudley Flores\" title=\"The pair behind A Public Affair play with their food. Photo: Dudley Flores\" width=\"400\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34421\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cstrong>The pair behind \"A Public Affair\" play at the table.\u003c/strong> Photo: Dudley Flores\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seated in the center of the industrial-chic dining space at \u003ca href=\"http://www.orsonsf.com/\">Orson\u003c/a> in San Francisco last week, Ryan T. Smith and Wendy Rein look like any other cute, urban couple catching up over a meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But--wait--the twosome are picking at unadorned lettuce, albeit artfully arranged on the plate. Under the table they sport ballet slippers. And, diners are about to discover, not as some quirky fashion statement. For a few nights this month, Elizabeth Falkner's restaurant, which has a rap for adventure in the kitchen, is bringing some extra buzz to the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smith and Rein, the long and lithe co-creators of the popular local company \u003ca href=\"http://rawdance.org/company.html\">RAWdance\u003c/a>, are giving eaters something to chew over while they dine out. Their 10-minute \u003ca href=\"http://rawdance.org/upcomingevents.html\">A Public Affair\u003c/a>, showtimes roughly at 7 and 8:30, makes fun, flirty use of objects on hand (greens get nibbled suggestively, napkins are tossed playfully over a partner's head, and chairs morph from obstacles to props).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This week, the couple will perform their new work, billed as \"California cuisine with a side of violins and a dash of dance,\" on Tuesday and Wednesday evenings. Think a riff on traditional dinner theater with a surprise twist a la flash mobs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This isn't the duos first foray into performing sans a stage: They've danced in an empty store at the Westfield Shopping Center during the holiday season, strutted their stuff in Union Square Park, and just last week took their modern moves to a UCSF LGBT mixer on the rooftop grass patio at the Mission Bay site. (Gotta love the bounce back a sprung surface like grass provides.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smith and Rein, partners in dance for more than a decade (and housemates too), are artists-in-residence at \u003ca href=\"http://odcdance.org/\">ODC Dance Commons\u003c/a>, where they teach classes in the wildly popular \u003ca href=\"http://rhythmandmotion.com/\">Rhythm and Motion\u003c/a> program (Full disclosure: This writer has been an R&M devotee for 20 years.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, like fellow teacher \u003ca href=\"http://counterpulse.org/artists/artist-in-residence-amara-tabor-smith/\">Amara Smith\u003c/a>, the pair want to play with food in their creative work. \"San Francisco has such a strong, pulsing food culture that we're all naturally pulled to it,\" says Smith. \"I also think there's something about the sense of community around food, the act of bringing people together to share an experience, that's really appealing to tap into.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rein and Smith, both vegetarians, cook, eat, and experiment in the kitchen together, which is the only room in their house they can dance in. They're also big fans of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef\">Top Chef\u003c/a>, where \u003ca href=\"http://www.elizabethfalkner.com/bio.html\">Falkner\u003c/a> has served as a judge. (This month she can be found among the competition on \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/the-next-iron-chef/index.html\">The Next Iron Chef\u003c/a> on the Food Network.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/RAW.ryan_.wendy500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/RAW.ryan_.wendy500.jpg\" alt=\"In flight: Ryan T. Smith and Wendy Rein of RAWdance. Photo: R. J. Muna\" title=\"In flight: Ryan T. Smith and Wendy Rein of RAWdance. Photo: R. J. Muna\" width=\"500\" height=\"501\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cstrong>In flight: Ryan T. Smith and Wendy Rein of RAWdance.\u003c/strong> Photo: R. J. Muna\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the unconventional setting, the dancers choreography exhibits classic technique with a strong physicality, set to violin music composed by Sarn Oliver, one half of \u003ca href=\"http://tangledduo.com/tangledduo.com/Tangled_home.html\">Tangled Duo\u003c/a>, which performed live in the preview run of this work last Tuesday. Scheduling conflicts prevent the San Francisco Symphony Orchestra members from performing each evening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dance world can be insular and elitist, says Smith, which is why his company performs for the public in unexpected places. \"We like to break down those boundaries by showing athletic, crafted work up close and personal without any distance from our audience,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dancing in a restaurant is not without unique challenges. \"The performance is a constant negotiation between musicality, character, spacing and safety,\" says Smith of the self-contained piece performed in the heart of the dining room while staff ferry hot food to hungry customers. \"We have to negotiate jackets hanging from chairs, purses on the floor, waiters passing by, and dropped spoons.\" He adds: \"It's a tricky situation but a fun one.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This writer can report that no food went flying (except as choreographed) during last Wednesday night's two performances and diners seemed delighted by the cheeky interlude between courses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The curious and couples looking for something special for date night should snag a table at Orson tonight or tomorrow. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, heads up to those who want to catch the show without forking out major money in the dining room for, say, hangar steak: The bar or lounge serve as perfectly fine spots from which to watch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Orson's Happy Hour menu, now available from 5 to 8, features duck fat French fries, curry cauliflower gratin, and mac & cheese, along with $5 cocktails. Watching patrons' reactions to the seemingly spontaneous display in the dining area: Priceless.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Details:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://orsonsf.com/orson.html\" title=\"Orson\">Orson Restaurant Bar + Lounge\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n508 4th Street\u003cbr>\n(between Bryant & Brannan Streets)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco\u003cbr>\n415-777-1508\u003cbr>\nOctober 18 and 19 \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/RAWdanceOrson400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/RAWdanceOrson400.jpg\" alt=\"The pair behind A Public Affair play with their food. Photo: Dudley Flores\" title=\"The pair behind A Public Affair play with their food. Photo: Dudley Flores\" width=\"400\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34421\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cstrong>The pair behind \"A Public Affair\" play at the table.\u003c/strong> Photo: Dudley Flores\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seated in the center of the industrial-chic dining space at \u003ca href=\"http://www.orsonsf.com/\">Orson\u003c/a> in San Francisco last week, Ryan T. Smith and Wendy Rein look like any other cute, urban couple catching up over a meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But--wait--the twosome are picking at unadorned lettuce, albeit artfully arranged on the plate. Under the table they sport ballet slippers. And, diners are about to discover, not as some quirky fashion statement. For a few nights this month, Elizabeth Falkner's restaurant, which has a rap for adventure in the kitchen, is bringing some extra buzz to the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smith and Rein, the long and lithe co-creators of the popular local company \u003ca href=\"http://rawdance.org/company.html\">RAWdance\u003c/a>, are giving eaters something to chew over while they dine out. Their 10-minute \u003ca href=\"http://rawdance.org/upcomingevents.html\">A Public Affair\u003c/a>, showtimes roughly at 7 and 8:30, makes fun, flirty use of objects on hand (greens get nibbled suggestively, napkins are tossed playfully over a partner's head, and chairs morph from obstacles to props).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This week, the couple will perform their new work, billed as \"California cuisine with a side of violins and a dash of dance,\" on Tuesday and Wednesday evenings. Think a riff on traditional dinner theater with a surprise twist a la flash mobs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This isn't the duos first foray into performing sans a stage: They've danced in an empty store at the Westfield Shopping Center during the holiday season, strutted their stuff in Union Square Park, and just last week took their modern moves to a UCSF LGBT mixer on the rooftop grass patio at the Mission Bay site. (Gotta love the bounce back a sprung surface like grass provides.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smith and Rein, partners in dance for more than a decade (and housemates too), are artists-in-residence at \u003ca href=\"http://odcdance.org/\">ODC Dance Commons\u003c/a>, where they teach classes in the wildly popular \u003ca href=\"http://rhythmandmotion.com/\">Rhythm and Motion\u003c/a> program (Full disclosure: This writer has been an R&M devotee for 20 years.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, like fellow teacher \u003ca href=\"http://counterpulse.org/artists/artist-in-residence-amara-tabor-smith/\">Amara Smith\u003c/a>, the pair want to play with food in their creative work. \"San Francisco has such a strong, pulsing food culture that we're all naturally pulled to it,\" says Smith. \"I also think there's something about the sense of community around food, the act of bringing people together to share an experience, that's really appealing to tap into.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rein and Smith, both vegetarians, cook, eat, and experiment in the kitchen together, which is the only room in their house they can dance in. They're also big fans of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef\">Top Chef\u003c/a>, where \u003ca href=\"http://www.elizabethfalkner.com/bio.html\">Falkner\u003c/a> has served as a judge. (This month she can be found among the competition on \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/the-next-iron-chef/index.html\">The Next Iron Chef\u003c/a> on the Food Network.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/RAW.ryan_.wendy500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/RAW.ryan_.wendy500.jpg\" alt=\"In flight: Ryan T. Smith and Wendy Rein of RAWdance. Photo: R. J. Muna\" title=\"In flight: Ryan T. Smith and Wendy Rein of RAWdance. Photo: R. J. Muna\" width=\"500\" height=\"501\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cstrong>In flight: Ryan T. Smith and Wendy Rein of RAWdance.\u003c/strong> Photo: R. J. Muna\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the unconventional setting, the dancers choreography exhibits classic technique with a strong physicality, set to violin music composed by Sarn Oliver, one half of \u003ca href=\"http://tangledduo.com/tangledduo.com/Tangled_home.html\">Tangled Duo\u003c/a>, which performed live in the preview run of this work last Tuesday. Scheduling conflicts prevent the San Francisco Symphony Orchestra members from performing each evening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dance world can be insular and elitist, says Smith, which is why his company performs for the public in unexpected places. \"We like to break down those boundaries by showing athletic, crafted work up close and personal without any distance from our audience,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dancing in a restaurant is not without unique challenges. \"The performance is a constant negotiation between musicality, character, spacing and safety,\" says Smith of the self-contained piece performed in the heart of the dining room while staff ferry hot food to hungry customers. \"We have to negotiate jackets hanging from chairs, purses on the floor, waiters passing by, and dropped spoons.\" He adds: \"It's a tricky situation but a fun one.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This writer can report that no food went flying (except as choreographed) during last Wednesday night's two performances and diners seemed delighted by the cheeky interlude between courses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The curious and couples looking for something special for date night should snag a table at Orson tonight or tomorrow. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, heads up to those who want to catch the show without forking out major money in the dining room for, say, hangar steak: The bar or lounge serve as perfectly fine spots from which to watch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Orson's Happy Hour menu, now available from 5 to 8, features duck fat French fries, curry cauliflower gratin, and mac & cheese, along with $5 cocktails. Watching patrons' reactions to the seemingly spontaneous display in the dining area: Priceless.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Details:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://orsonsf.com/orson.html\" title=\"Orson\">Orson Restaurant Bar + Lounge\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n508 4th Street\u003cbr>\n(between Bryant & Brannan Streets)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco\u003cbr>\n415-777-1508\u003cbr>\nOctober 18 and 19 \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Words on the Waves: Litquake in Sausalito",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/sign.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/sign.jpg\" alt=\"Davey Jones Deli sign\" title=\"Davey Jones Deli sign\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnonr size-full wp-image-34296\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rum, chowder, and Otis Redding: could a Saturday afternoon on the waterfront get any better? It was the first of what we hope will be an annual event, Litquake's \u003ca href=\"http://www.litquake.org/calendar-of-events/event/words-on-the-waves\">Words on the Waves\u003c/a>, presenting a walkabout of eight readings presented on a cluster of Sausalito houseboats, followed by an open-air concert, cocktails, tasty eats, and tango dancing on the sunny South 40 Pier. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Originally, said \u003ca href=\"http://www.lehmannhaupt.com/\">Rachel Lehmann-Haupt\u003c/a>, a writer and one of the event's organizers, the idea had been to feature food as well as spoken words on each of the eight houseboat sites. After all, we love books and writers here almost as much as we love our sea-salt caramels. But trying to put writers, houseboat owners, and cooks together proved a little too challenging for the event's first time out, and so food and drinks became part of the pierside party after the readings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/anchoroutcocktails.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/anchoroutcocktails.jpg\" alt=\"Amy Butcher and Hillair Bell serve up Anchor Out cocktails\" title=\"Amy Butcher and Hillair Bell serve up Anchor Out cocktails\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34298\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Amy Butcher and Hillair Bell serve up Anchor Out cocktails\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the sun danced between teasing ribbons of fog and longtime musician and houseboat dweller Joe Tate strummed his guitar and spun yarns about Otis Redding (yes, \"Sittin' on the Dock of the Bay\" was written here), houseboat dwellers Amy Butcher and organizer Hillair Bell squeezed limes into plastic cups of \u003cstrong>Anchor Out\u003c/strong> cocktails, created just for the event. Like a mojito without the mint, the drinks had a strong dark-rum base (what else for a crowd of literary pirates?) sweetened with ginger and kaffir-lime syrup, tarted up with lime juice and fizzed with club soda. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/oystershucking.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/oystershucking.jpg\" alt=\"Oyster shucking by Martin Reed of I Love Blue Sea\" title=\"Oyster shucking by Martin Reed of I Love Blue Sea\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34295\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oyster shucking by Martin Reed of I Love Blue Sea\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Behind me, landlubbers and pirates alike slurp down Walker Creek oysters from Washington, adroitly shucked by Martin Reed, Captain of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com\">I Love Blue Sea\u003c/a>, an online fish company for chefs and consumers. A Bay Area local, Reed moved to Arizona to work as a management consultant, and realized that the rest of the country had nothing like the Bay Area's abundance of fresh-off-the-boat, sustainable seafood. So, a little over a year ago, he started I Love Blue Sea, buying his products directly from fishermen and abiding by the guidelines set forth by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx\">Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch\u003c/a>. Reed's favorite seafood items right now? Besides this batch of briny, ocean-splashed Walker Creeks, he favors Kumamoto and Kusshi oysters, plus local albacore, black cod, and halibut. And not that we're lacking places to get great fish around here, but locals who order online can skip the shipping charges and pick up their fish at \u003ca href=\"http://radiussf.com\">Radius Cafe\u003c/a> at 7th and Folsom in Soma. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/vergewine.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/vergewine.jpg\" alt=\"Jay and Emily Kell of Verge Wine Cellars\" title=\"Jay and Emily Kell of Verge Wine Cellars\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34297\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jay and Emily Kell of Verge Wine Cellars\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prefer wine to rum? \u003ca href=\"www.mariafinn.com\">Maria Finn\u003c/a>, houseboat dweller, author, and \u003cem>Words on the Waves\u003c/em> organizer introduced me to Emily and Jay Kell of \u003ca href=\"http://www.vergewine.com\">Verge Wine Cellars\u003c/a>, pouring their 2007 Verge Syrah, made from organic grapes sourced in the Dry Creek Valley. Why Verge? Because they look for grapes grown \"on the verge,\" with room for nature to run wild. When it turns out that the Kells hail from Arkansas, where I spent some very enjoyable months living and cooking at the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/09/11/the-writers-colony-at-dairy-hollow/\">Writers Colony at Dairy Hollow\u003c/a> in Eureka Springs, well, we could chat all day about life in the Ozarks. Only the scent of chowder inspired by Melville can lure me away. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/chowder.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/chowder.jpg\" alt=\"Serving up chowder from Davy Jones Deli\" title=\"Serving up chowder from Davy Jones Deli\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34299\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Serving up chowder from Davy Jones Deli\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's good chowder, too, cod and clam, with milk, potatoes, bacon, bay leaves, perhaps even a little chicken stock in among the seafood--altogether more complex that the simple clam-or-cod soup served up by Mrs. Hussey of the Try Pots Tavern in Melville's classic tome, \u003cem>Moby Dick. \u003c/em>This one has been made by David Jones of \u003ca href=\"http://www.daveyjonesdeli.com\">Davy Jones' Deli\u003c/a>, a popular sandwich-and-more joint that operates at the back of the Bait Shop, a nearby convenience store. A little over a year ago, Jones convinced the shop's owner to ditch his microwaved hot dogs and Costco potato salad for handmade, colorful sandwiches stacked high with local, organic ingredients. \"We're known for our beef brisket, our pulled pork, and our vegan wraps, all with housemade condiments, including our secret-recipe vegan aioli,\" says Jones. Once a sea and safari cook who taught environmental science on ships, Jones spied a book about Sausalito's houseboats, and, as he puts it, \"For the first time I felt geographic envy. I said to myself, there I could be a landlubber.” He and his wife now live in one of the houseboats he once envied, running the deli and catering special events. His day to day clientele? “Gangsters, yoga moms, and the uber-rich, all rolled into one,” he says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sounds like a novel right there. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/sign.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/sign.jpg\" alt=\"Davey Jones Deli sign\" title=\"Davey Jones Deli sign\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnonr size-full wp-image-34296\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rum, chowder, and Otis Redding: could a Saturday afternoon on the waterfront get any better? It was the first of what we hope will be an annual event, Litquake's \u003ca href=\"http://www.litquake.org/calendar-of-events/event/words-on-the-waves\">Words on the Waves\u003c/a>, presenting a walkabout of eight readings presented on a cluster of Sausalito houseboats, followed by an open-air concert, cocktails, tasty eats, and tango dancing on the sunny South 40 Pier. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Originally, said \u003ca href=\"http://www.lehmannhaupt.com/\">Rachel Lehmann-Haupt\u003c/a>, a writer and one of the event's organizers, the idea had been to feature food as well as spoken words on each of the eight houseboat sites. After all, we love books and writers here almost as much as we love our sea-salt caramels. But trying to put writers, houseboat owners, and cooks together proved a little too challenging for the event's first time out, and so food and drinks became part of the pierside party after the readings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/anchoroutcocktails.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/anchoroutcocktails.jpg\" alt=\"Amy Butcher and Hillair Bell serve up Anchor Out cocktails\" title=\"Amy Butcher and Hillair Bell serve up Anchor Out cocktails\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34298\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Amy Butcher and Hillair Bell serve up Anchor Out cocktails\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the sun danced between teasing ribbons of fog and longtime musician and houseboat dweller Joe Tate strummed his guitar and spun yarns about Otis Redding (yes, \"Sittin' on the Dock of the Bay\" was written here), houseboat dwellers Amy Butcher and organizer Hillair Bell squeezed limes into plastic cups of \u003cstrong>Anchor Out\u003c/strong> cocktails, created just for the event. Like a mojito without the mint, the drinks had a strong dark-rum base (what else for a crowd of literary pirates?) sweetened with ginger and kaffir-lime syrup, tarted up with lime juice and fizzed with club soda. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/oystershucking.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/oystershucking.jpg\" alt=\"Oyster shucking by Martin Reed of I Love Blue Sea\" title=\"Oyster shucking by Martin Reed of I Love Blue Sea\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34295\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oyster shucking by Martin Reed of I Love Blue Sea\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Behind me, landlubbers and pirates alike slurp down Walker Creek oysters from Washington, adroitly shucked by Martin Reed, Captain of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com\">I Love Blue Sea\u003c/a>, an online fish company for chefs and consumers. A Bay Area local, Reed moved to Arizona to work as a management consultant, and realized that the rest of the country had nothing like the Bay Area's abundance of fresh-off-the-boat, sustainable seafood. So, a little over a year ago, he started I Love Blue Sea, buying his products directly from fishermen and abiding by the guidelines set forth by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx\">Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch\u003c/a>. Reed's favorite seafood items right now? Besides this batch of briny, ocean-splashed Walker Creeks, he favors Kumamoto and Kusshi oysters, plus local albacore, black cod, and halibut. And not that we're lacking places to get great fish around here, but locals who order online can skip the shipping charges and pick up their fish at \u003ca href=\"http://radiussf.com\">Radius Cafe\u003c/a> at 7th and Folsom in Soma. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/vergewine.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/vergewine.jpg\" alt=\"Jay and Emily Kell of Verge Wine Cellars\" title=\"Jay and Emily Kell of Verge Wine Cellars\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34297\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jay and Emily Kell of Verge Wine Cellars\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prefer wine to rum? \u003ca href=\"www.mariafinn.com\">Maria Finn\u003c/a>, houseboat dweller, author, and \u003cem>Words on the Waves\u003c/em> organizer introduced me to Emily and Jay Kell of \u003ca href=\"http://www.vergewine.com\">Verge Wine Cellars\u003c/a>, pouring their 2007 Verge Syrah, made from organic grapes sourced in the Dry Creek Valley. Why Verge? Because they look for grapes grown \"on the verge,\" with room for nature to run wild. When it turns out that the Kells hail from Arkansas, where I spent some very enjoyable months living and cooking at the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/09/11/the-writers-colony-at-dairy-hollow/\">Writers Colony at Dairy Hollow\u003c/a> in Eureka Springs, well, we could chat all day about life in the Ozarks. Only the scent of chowder inspired by Melville can lure me away. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/chowder.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/chowder.jpg\" alt=\"Serving up chowder from Davy Jones Deli\" title=\"Serving up chowder from Davy Jones Deli\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34299\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Serving up chowder from Davy Jones Deli\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's good chowder, too, cod and clam, with milk, potatoes, bacon, bay leaves, perhaps even a little chicken stock in among the seafood--altogether more complex that the simple clam-or-cod soup served up by Mrs. Hussey of the Try Pots Tavern in Melville's classic tome, \u003cem>Moby Dick. \u003c/em>This one has been made by David Jones of \u003ca href=\"http://www.daveyjonesdeli.com\">Davy Jones' Deli\u003c/a>, a popular sandwich-and-more joint that operates at the back of the Bait Shop, a nearby convenience store. A little over a year ago, Jones convinced the shop's owner to ditch his microwaved hot dogs and Costco potato salad for handmade, colorful sandwiches stacked high with local, organic ingredients. \"We're known for our beef brisket, our pulled pork, and our vegan wraps, all with housemade condiments, including our secret-recipe vegan aioli,\" says Jones. Once a sea and safari cook who taught environmental science on ships, Jones spied a book about Sausalito's houseboats, and, as he puts it, \"For the first time I felt geographic envy. I said to myself, there I could be a landlubber.” He and his wife now live in one of the houseboats he once envied, running the deli and catering special events. His day to day clientele? “Gangsters, yoga moms, and the uber-rich, all rolled into one,” he says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sounds like a novel right there. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Book Review and Recipe: The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Cookbook",
"title": "Book Review and Recipe: The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Cookbook",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/beekman.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34106\" title=\"beekman brothers\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/beekman.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"540\" height=\"272\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first thing that struck me about \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Beekman-1802-Heirloom-Cookbook-vegetables/dp/140278709X\">The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Cookbook\u003c/a>, written by Brent Ridge and Josh Kilmer-Purcell with Sandy Gluck, is the very first page. There's a smartly designed book-plate that reads:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem> First Generation to Own This Book: ____________\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think the very first page of the book says a great deal about the mission and ethos behind the project, the recipes, and the vision. Brent and Josh have a 200-year old farm outside of tiny Sharon Springs, New York where they produce goat's milk soap, cheeses, and other artisanal products along with hosting dinners and events. After deciding they firmly believed in capturing the work that was happening on the farm, preserving the food traditions they were introducing, and celebrating the small community surrounding them, a cookbook seemed like the next logical step.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now the Beekman boys will be the first to ask the question, \"does the world really need another cookbook?\" This fall, especially, seems to be a banner season for new releases including \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Family-Meal-Cooking-Ferran-Adria/dp/0714862533\">The Family Meal\u003c/a>, Bi-Rite's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Bi-Rite-Markets-Eat-Good-Food/dp/158008303X/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1318312624&sr=1-1\">Eat Good Food\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Pepin-More-All-Time-Favorites/dp/0547232799/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1318312652&sr=1-1\">Essential Pepin\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ruhlmans-Twenty-Techniques-Recipes-Manifesto/dp/0811876438/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1318312680&sr=1-1\">Ruhlman's Twenty\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Food52-Cookbook-Winning-Recipes-Exceptional/dp/006188720X/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1318312702&sr=1-1\">The Food 52 Cookbook\u003c/a> among many others. So what sets this one apart? Sure, it's organized by seasons and focuses on feel-good recipes with a sense of history. But a lot of cookbooks do this. I think the true thing that sets the Beekman Boys' book apart is the definitive aesthetic and design (highly visual, quirky, a little bit irreverent), the approachable and inspired recipes appropriate for novice and more experienced cooks alike, and their push for generational cooking. I like this last part a lot. It's why I'm really sold on this book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The photography by \u003ca href=\"http://www.tavorminaphotography.com/TavorminaPhotography/Photos.html\">Paulette Tavormina \u003c/a>captures the almost-down-home nature of the recipes beautifully. Most dishes are basic comfort food with a twist, and the photos really convey a warm, lived-in quality that make you want to pull up a chair and settle right into an evening meal at the farm. As far as the recipes are concerned, there are some that stand out right away for me. I've bookmarked Pea Pod Risotto, Meatloaf Burgers, Buttery Peach Cake, and Rosemary Spiced Nuts. The recipes range from simple salads and soups to more substantial entrees, side dishes and desserts. In addition, they do profiles of ingredients (raspberries, green beans, onions) and little \"how-to\" (yogurt cheese) sections that make the reader feel even closer to farm life. The headnotes for each recipe are approachable and become quite formulaic: the Beekman boys spell out why they're drawn to the recipe and then give a tip on preparation or shopping. For example, with the Broccoli Cheddar Soup recipe, they discuss using the broccoli stalks and florets and why each is useful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But we really can't discuss the recipes without exploring the question: what exactly is a \"heritage recipe\"? In their introduction, Brent and Josh note that \"heirlooms [are] recipes that we will make every year, recipes that we pass along to friends and family on scraps of paper. They are now as much a part of the story and life of Beekman 1802 Farms as are the house, the barn and the land.\" Later they go on to note that \"heirlooms\" of any kind are often irreplaceable and are, therefore, cherished. So they seem to have a two-fold mission: first, to publish recipes that have become important to them in living and creating a meaningful life on the farm and second, to encourage others to make these recipes a part of their own family traditions. There is a little \"Notes\" box next to each recipe to encourage readers to jot down what they liked, didn't like, or would change. They also supply sturdy note cards to jot down adaptations you might make with a certain recipe. Then, after doing so, Brent and Josh encourage readers to go to \u003ca href=\"http://beekman1802.com/heirloom-cookbook\">Beekman1802\u003c/a> to chronicle the changes. This way, each recipe will grow, change, and live on. For generations? Who knows. Time will tell, I suppose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is the book romanticizing their \"newly bucolic [country] lives?\" Sure. Absolutely. Regardless, the emphasis on family and the importance of traditions is especially relevant this time of year, especially as we tip-toe into fall and start to peek towards Thanksgiving. And that is why I so wanted to try out their Sweet Potato Pie recipe that appears towards the back of the book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_8243.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34110\" title=\"sweet potato pie\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_8243.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Beekman Boys have given Bay Area Bites permission to reprint the recipe and I can tell you that it's already been decided that Sweet Potato is taking down Pumpkin this Thanksgiving at our house. This recipe is special largely because of its simplicity, attention to detail (uses two distinct kinds of sweet potato) and the addition of brown butter at the end. It's, in all honesty, a pie I was talking about for a good three days afterwards. I think you will, too. While the recipe doesn't delineate the timing, I've done so here below. I've also split the paragraphs up into numbered steps. Last, when making your pie dough, if lard isn't your thing, Martha Stewart's \u003ca href=\"http://www.marthastewart.com/254603/pate-brisee-pie-dough\">pate brisee\u003c/a> is a perfectly lovely and reliable pie dough so go that route instead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_82451.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34108\" title=\"sweet potato pie\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_82451.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sweet Potato Pie\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>To get a sweet potato pie that isn't overly sweet, we use two kinds of sweet potatoes: Japanese sweet potatoes, which are a little drier in texture and mildly sweet, and deep-orange garnet potatoes, which are moist and quite sweet. If the pie develops a crack in the center as it cooks, which many do, simply top with sweetened whipped cream, sour cream, or yogurt. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 25 minutes (to make dough)\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour, 25 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nIngredients: \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBasic Pie Dough *\u003cbr>\n1 cup packed light brown sugar\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon nutmeg, grated\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup milk\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup sour cream\u003cbr>\n3 large eggs\u003cbr>\n1 large egg yolk\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n2 cups pureed cooked sweet potatoes (from about 1 1/2 pounds)\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough to a 12-inch round. Roll the dough around the rolling pin, and then fit it into a 9-inch deep-dish plate without stretching it.\u003cbr>\n2. Press the dough into the bottom and sides of the pan. With a pair of scissors or a paring knife, trim the edges of the dough to form a 1-inch overhand. Fold the overhand over to form a high edge, and with your fingers, crimp the dough all around. Refrigerate.\u003cbr>\n3. Preheat the oven to 350 F.\u003cbr>\n4. In a large bowl, whisk together the brown sugar, flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt until well combined. Whisk in the milk, sour cream, whole eggs, egg yolk, and vanilla. Whisk in the mashed sweet potatoes.\u003cbr>\n5. In a small saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Cook until the butter foams; them continue cooking until the foam subsides and the butter turns a rich brown.\u003cbr>\n6. Immediately pour the browned butter into the sweet potato mixture and whisk until incorporated.\u003cbr>\n7. Place the pie plate on a rimmed baking sheet and pour the mixture into it. Bake for 1 hour, or until the pie is set with a slightly wobbly center.\u003cbr>\n8. Cool on a rack. Serve chilled or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*\u003cstrong>Basic Pie Dough\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon sugar\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into bits\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons cold lard, cut into bits\u003cbr>\n3-4 tablespoons ice water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions: \u003c/strong> (note that there are two methods described below)\u003cbr>\n1. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, and salt. With a pastry blender or two knives used scissors fashion, cut in the butter and the lard until pea-size lumps remain.\u003cbr>\n2. Gradually add the ice water until the dough begins to come together but doesn't clean the sides of the bowl. Add just enough of the ice water so the mixture holds together when pinched between two fingers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Alternatively, in a food processor, pulse together the flour, sugar, and salt.\u003cbr>\n2. Add the butter and lard and pulse 10 times or until large pea-size lumps are formed. With the motor running, gradually add the ice water until the dough begins to come together but doesn't clean the sides of the bowl.\u003cbr>\n3. Add just enough of the ice water so the mixture holds together when pinched between two fingers.\u003cbr>\n4. Shape into a disk, wrap in wax paper and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 2 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Buy the book on \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/dp/140278709X/ref=as_li_ss_til?tag=joshkilmerpur-20&camp=213381&creative=390973&linkCode=as4&creativeASIN=140278709X&adid=10VR5GT0HYSE0FPRMBE1&\">Amazon\u003c/a>, $13\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Megan Gordon gives her review of the new The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Cookbook along with their incredible recipe for Sweet Potato Pie. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/beekman.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34106\" title=\"beekman brothers\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/beekman.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"540\" height=\"272\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first thing that struck me about \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Beekman-1802-Heirloom-Cookbook-vegetables/dp/140278709X\">The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Cookbook\u003c/a>, written by Brent Ridge and Josh Kilmer-Purcell with Sandy Gluck, is the very first page. There's a smartly designed book-plate that reads:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem> First Generation to Own This Book: ____________\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think the very first page of the book says a great deal about the mission and ethos behind the project, the recipes, and the vision. Brent and Josh have a 200-year old farm outside of tiny Sharon Springs, New York where they produce goat's milk soap, cheeses, and other artisanal products along with hosting dinners and events. After deciding they firmly believed in capturing the work that was happening on the farm, preserving the food traditions they were introducing, and celebrating the small community surrounding them, a cookbook seemed like the next logical step.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now the Beekman boys will be the first to ask the question, \"does the world really need another cookbook?\" This fall, especially, seems to be a banner season for new releases including \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Family-Meal-Cooking-Ferran-Adria/dp/0714862533\">The Family Meal\u003c/a>, Bi-Rite's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Bi-Rite-Markets-Eat-Good-Food/dp/158008303X/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1318312624&sr=1-1\">Eat Good Food\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Pepin-More-All-Time-Favorites/dp/0547232799/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1318312652&sr=1-1\">Essential Pepin\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ruhlmans-Twenty-Techniques-Recipes-Manifesto/dp/0811876438/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1318312680&sr=1-1\">Ruhlman's Twenty\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Food52-Cookbook-Winning-Recipes-Exceptional/dp/006188720X/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1318312702&sr=1-1\">The Food 52 Cookbook\u003c/a> among many others. So what sets this one apart? Sure, it's organized by seasons and focuses on feel-good recipes with a sense of history. But a lot of cookbooks do this. I think the true thing that sets the Beekman Boys' book apart is the definitive aesthetic and design (highly visual, quirky, a little bit irreverent), the approachable and inspired recipes appropriate for novice and more experienced cooks alike, and their push for generational cooking. I like this last part a lot. It's why I'm really sold on this book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The photography by \u003ca href=\"http://www.tavorminaphotography.com/TavorminaPhotography/Photos.html\">Paulette Tavormina \u003c/a>captures the almost-down-home nature of the recipes beautifully. Most dishes are basic comfort food with a twist, and the photos really convey a warm, lived-in quality that make you want to pull up a chair and settle right into an evening meal at the farm. As far as the recipes are concerned, there are some that stand out right away for me. I've bookmarked Pea Pod Risotto, Meatloaf Burgers, Buttery Peach Cake, and Rosemary Spiced Nuts. The recipes range from simple salads and soups to more substantial entrees, side dishes and desserts. In addition, they do profiles of ingredients (raspberries, green beans, onions) and little \"how-to\" (yogurt cheese) sections that make the reader feel even closer to farm life. The headnotes for each recipe are approachable and become quite formulaic: the Beekman boys spell out why they're drawn to the recipe and then give a tip on preparation or shopping. For example, with the Broccoli Cheddar Soup recipe, they discuss using the broccoli stalks and florets and why each is useful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But we really can't discuss the recipes without exploring the question: what exactly is a \"heritage recipe\"? In their introduction, Brent and Josh note that \"heirlooms [are] recipes that we will make every year, recipes that we pass along to friends and family on scraps of paper. They are now as much a part of the story and life of Beekman 1802 Farms as are the house, the barn and the land.\" Later they go on to note that \"heirlooms\" of any kind are often irreplaceable and are, therefore, cherished. So they seem to have a two-fold mission: first, to publish recipes that have become important to them in living and creating a meaningful life on the farm and second, to encourage others to make these recipes a part of their own family traditions. There is a little \"Notes\" box next to each recipe to encourage readers to jot down what they liked, didn't like, or would change. They also supply sturdy note cards to jot down adaptations you might make with a certain recipe. Then, after doing so, Brent and Josh encourage readers to go to \u003ca href=\"http://beekman1802.com/heirloom-cookbook\">Beekman1802\u003c/a> to chronicle the changes. This way, each recipe will grow, change, and live on. For generations? Who knows. Time will tell, I suppose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is the book romanticizing their \"newly bucolic [country] lives?\" Sure. Absolutely. Regardless, the emphasis on family and the importance of traditions is especially relevant this time of year, especially as we tip-toe into fall and start to peek towards Thanksgiving. And that is why I so wanted to try out their Sweet Potato Pie recipe that appears towards the back of the book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_8243.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34110\" title=\"sweet potato pie\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_8243.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Beekman Boys have given Bay Area Bites permission to reprint the recipe and I can tell you that it's already been decided that Sweet Potato is taking down Pumpkin this Thanksgiving at our house. This recipe is special largely because of its simplicity, attention to detail (uses two distinct kinds of sweet potato) and the addition of brown butter at the end. It's, in all honesty, a pie I was talking about for a good three days afterwards. I think you will, too. While the recipe doesn't delineate the timing, I've done so here below. I've also split the paragraphs up into numbered steps. Last, when making your pie dough, if lard isn't your thing, Martha Stewart's \u003ca href=\"http://www.marthastewart.com/254603/pate-brisee-pie-dough\">pate brisee\u003c/a> is a perfectly lovely and reliable pie dough so go that route instead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_82451.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34108\" title=\"sweet potato pie\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/IMG_82451.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sweet Potato Pie\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>To get a sweet potato pie that isn't overly sweet, we use two kinds of sweet potatoes: Japanese sweet potatoes, which are a little drier in texture and mildly sweet, and deep-orange garnet potatoes, which are moist and quite sweet. If the pie develops a crack in the center as it cooks, which many do, simply top with sweetened whipped cream, sour cream, or yogurt. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 25 minutes (to make dough)\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour, 25 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nIngredients: \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBasic Pie Dough *\u003cbr>\n1 cup packed light brown sugar\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon nutmeg, grated\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup milk\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup sour cream\u003cbr>\n3 large eggs\u003cbr>\n1 large egg yolk\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n2 cups pureed cooked sweet potatoes (from about 1 1/2 pounds)\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough to a 12-inch round. Roll the dough around the rolling pin, and then fit it into a 9-inch deep-dish plate without stretching it.\u003cbr>\n2. Press the dough into the bottom and sides of the pan. With a pair of scissors or a paring knife, trim the edges of the dough to form a 1-inch overhand. Fold the overhand over to form a high edge, and with your fingers, crimp the dough all around. Refrigerate.\u003cbr>\n3. Preheat the oven to 350 F.\u003cbr>\n4. In a large bowl, whisk together the brown sugar, flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt until well combined. Whisk in the milk, sour cream, whole eggs, egg yolk, and vanilla. Whisk in the mashed sweet potatoes.\u003cbr>\n5. In a small saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Cook until the butter foams; them continue cooking until the foam subsides and the butter turns a rich brown.\u003cbr>\n6. Immediately pour the browned butter into the sweet potato mixture and whisk until incorporated.\u003cbr>\n7. Place the pie plate on a rimmed baking sheet and pour the mixture into it. Bake for 1 hour, or until the pie is set with a slightly wobbly center.\u003cbr>\n8. Cool on a rack. Serve chilled or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*\u003cstrong>Basic Pie Dough\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon sugar\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into bits\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons cold lard, cut into bits\u003cbr>\n3-4 tablespoons ice water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions: \u003c/strong> (note that there are two methods described below)\u003cbr>\n1. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, and salt. With a pastry blender or two knives used scissors fashion, cut in the butter and the lard until pea-size lumps remain.\u003cbr>\n2. Gradually add the ice water until the dough begins to come together but doesn't clean the sides of the bowl. Add just enough of the ice water so the mixture holds together when pinched between two fingers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Alternatively, in a food processor, pulse together the flour, sugar, and salt.\u003cbr>\n2. Add the butter and lard and pulse 10 times or until large pea-size lumps are formed. With the motor running, gradually add the ice water until the dough begins to come together but doesn't clean the sides of the bowl.\u003cbr>\n3. Add just enough of the ice water so the mixture holds together when pinched between two fingers.\u003cbr>\n4. Shape into a disk, wrap in wax paper and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 2 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Buy the book on \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/dp/140278709X/ref=as_li_ss_til?tag=joshkilmerpur-20&camp=213381&creative=390973&linkCode=as4&creativeASIN=140278709X&adid=10VR5GT0HYSE0FPRMBE1&\">Amazon\u003c/a>, $13\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Makin' Bacon in the Headlands",
"title": "Makin' Bacon in the Headlands",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>When you’re making brunch for 25 starving artists, you better have a lot of bacon. In a kitchen like the one at the \u003ca href=\"http://headlands.org\">Headlands Center for the Arts\u003c/a>, where I’m currently living and working as a kitchen intern, everything counts in large amounts, and nothing’s more beloved by the artists we’re feeding than the house-made meat products we grind, cure or smoke. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bacon, pancetta, breakfast sausage, spicy link sausage, salmon gravlax, and more: most of them require only salt, sugar, spices, and time to transform fatty, tough cuts of meat into savory staples that can richly flavor any dish. (The exception is the salmon, of course, caught for us in Alaska by a friend of the chef’s and sent to us in pristine vacuum-packed sides. Still, even this great stuff emerges silkier and more aromatic after a few days’ curing with salt and dill.) It helps, too, that Damon Little, my fellow kitchen intern, spent some months last year working as an apprentice in the stainless-steel surrounds of esteemed salumi-makers \u003ca href=\"http://www.boccalone.com\">Boccalone\u003c/a> in Oakland. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making bacon takes time, it’s true—eight days to cure, a few hours in the smoker, another hour or so in the oven to finish—but very little of it requires our hands or even our presence. It doesn’t take much time to weigh out a handful of salt and spices, rub it into a slab of pork belly, slap the belly onto a baking pan and pop it in the fridge. A turn and rub every other day takes maybe two minutes, tops. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/smokysmoker560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/smokysmoker560.jpg\" alt=\"Cured bacon slabs in the smoker.\" title=\"Cured bacon slabs in the smoker.\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34012\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cured bacon slabs in the smoker.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Then there’s the smoking, a couple of hours, but during almost all of that time, the bacon-to-be is quietly, smokily minding its own business while we go about ours. At the end, well-smoked, the slab goes into the oven to finish cooking. (This last step may not be necessary, depending on how hot your smoker gets; the main thing is getting the pork's internal temperature up to 150 degrees.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/darkbaconrack560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/darkbaconrack560.jpg\" alt=\"Bacon slabs, just out of the smoker, ready for the oven\" title=\"Bacon slabs, just out of the smoker, ready for the oven\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34009\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Bacon slabs, just out of the smoker, ready for the oven.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result, eschewing all modesty, is fantastic. Right out of the oven, the slabs are deep red-brown, lacquered like a Peking duck, with an outrageously appetizing aroma. Because our bacon doesn’t have to last for weeks in a butcher’s case or grocer’s fridge (we freeze it immediately and defrost it chunk by chunk as needed), we can make our cure lighter on both the salt and “pink salt” than most commercial versions. Enough to cure it safely, of course, but light enough that you can taste the flavor of the pork and aromatics as well, without your tongue being clubbed by salt. (What is pink salt, you ask? Also known as curing salt, DC cure, or DQ cure, it is a mixture of 6.25% sodium nitrite and 93.75% sodium chloride, or table salt. The nitrites in the salt mixture help prevent bacterial contamination and also preserve the meat's color during the curing process. It is dyed pink to prevent it from being confused with regular salt.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This last time we made bacon, we added maple syrup to a simple salt-and-pepper cure, to make something straightforward and breakfast-y out of half the meat. The other half became pancetta, cured without syrup but with more spices and aromatics, including plenty of rosemary. After curing, the meat was rolled and tied but not smoked, to make a savory bacon in the European style, useful as a base for sauces, stews, and ragus. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/tyingpancetta560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/tyingpancetta560.jpg\" alt=\"Damon LIttle tying pancetta.\" title=\"Damon LIttle tying pancetta.\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34007\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Damon LIttle tying pancetta.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any pieces of the bacon or pancetta not immediately fried up for brunch quickly find a home: turned into lardons for salad, sautéed with onions, carrots, and celery to give a backbone to lentils or duck-and-bean soup, or simply cooked up for a kitchen-crew snack on yesterday’s sourdough bread, piled with sliced tomatoes and a smear of leftover garlic mayonnaise or Caesar dressing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/pancetta560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/pancetta560.jpg\" alt=\"Pancetta\" title=\"Pancetta\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34011\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pancetta\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given that we generally cure and smoke four big slabs of organic Berkshire pork from Idaho’s Snake River Farms at a time, the savings in the kitchen budget are significant. High-quality, organic bacon like this would probably cost us four times what the plain pork belly does. When you’re a non-profit cooking daily for 25 to 30 people, sometimes for twice that, making your own value-added products in house is just good sense. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Good organic jam, free of high-fructose corn syrup and made with more fruit than sugar? Expensive, especially when one brunch can empty 3 or 4 fancy jars. A flat of organic, locally grown plums, a pound or two of organic sugar, a handful of lemons and a couple hours of my time? A much cheaper, and much more delicious, way to fill a pantry shelf. The apples from a staff member’s backyard tree are tasty but misshapen and pocked with holes, useless for out-of-hand eating. But a little time with a paring knife, an afternoon’s slow baking in the oven, and we have three quarts of autumn apple butter ready to be slathered on this Sunday’s waffles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Waffles served with bacon, naturally. Having come to bacon late in life (my parents’ one nod to traditional Jewish dietary laws was no pork in the house), I’ve never felt confident cooking it, especially since every bacon-lover seems to have a different bacon ideal—rigid or floppy, nearly burnt or just sizzled. Here, I’ve learned a good trick for when you’re making bacon for a crowd, when frying up a single panful just won’t do. We cut our bacon in fairly thick strips, laying them out side by side on parchment-lined sheet trays and popping them into the oven to cook until just crisp. Take the slices off the trays and lay them out on cooling racks to drain; this keeps them from getting soggy with grease and steam while you go about prepping the mimosas and flipping the frittatas. Pour the excess grease off the baking sheets (into an old jar or bowl, not down the sink, since it will thicken and harden into a drain-blocking sludge as it cools). To reheat, slide the bacon, still on its racks, back onto the baking sheets, and return to the oven until crisp and hot. Serve immediately, if you can bear to let any of it leave the kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/finalbacon560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/finalbacon560.jpg\" alt=\"Final bacon\" title=\"Final bacon\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34010\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Final bacon\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Smoked Maple Bacon\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Summary: \u003c/strong>\u003cem>The following recipe is adapted by Headlands kitchen intern Damon Little from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393058298/kqedorg-20\">Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing\u003c/a>, by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 60 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 4 hours\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 5 hours, plus 8 days' curing time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield: \u003c/strong>About 4 lbs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp red pepper flakes, crushed in a mortar\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n1.75 oz kosher salt or sea salt (not iodized)\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp pink salt (curing salt)\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup maple sugar or packed dark brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup maple syrup (grade B has the most flavor)\u003cbr>\n One 5-lb slab pork belly, preferably from a pasture-raised animal\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Combine the chili flakes, pepper, salt, pink salt, and sugar in a bowl and mix well. Add syrup and stir to combine.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Rub cure over both sides of the belly, making sure to work it under any flaps and into any crevices. Seal meat in a 2-gallon resealable plastic bag, or place in a non-reactive (glass, ceramic, stainless steel) container a little bigger than the meat. The salt and sugar will pull liquid out of the meat as it cures; make sure the meat stays bathed in this brine throughout the process.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Refrigerate meat, turning and rubbing the belly to redistribute the cure every other day, for 7 days. \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove belly from pan, rinse it thoroughly to remove any remaining cure, and pat dry. Put belly on a rack over a rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate, uncovered, for another 12 to 24 hours.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\nSmoke the belly in a hot smoker for 2 hours. The finished internal temperature of the bacon should be about 150 degrees F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If, after 2 hours, your bacon has not reached this temperature, remove from the smoker. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Place belly on a metal roasting rack over a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 60-90 minutes, until the internal temperature reaches 150 degrees.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\nRemove bacon from oven and let cool. When cool, cut into one-pound pieces, and wrap tightly in plastic. Refrigerate or freeze until ready to use.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Time to start stocking up for the winter! Before the rains kick in, fire up that backyard smoker one more time and make a batch of homemade bacon. Stephanie Rosenbaum shares bacon-making tips from the kitchen at the Headlands Center for the Arts.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When you’re making brunch for 25 starving artists, you better have a lot of bacon. In a kitchen like the one at the \u003ca href=\"http://headlands.org\">Headlands Center for the Arts\u003c/a>, where I’m currently living and working as a kitchen intern, everything counts in large amounts, and nothing’s more beloved by the artists we’re feeding than the house-made meat products we grind, cure or smoke. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bacon, pancetta, breakfast sausage, spicy link sausage, salmon gravlax, and more: most of them require only salt, sugar, spices, and time to transform fatty, tough cuts of meat into savory staples that can richly flavor any dish. (The exception is the salmon, of course, caught for us in Alaska by a friend of the chef’s and sent to us in pristine vacuum-packed sides. Still, even this great stuff emerges silkier and more aromatic after a few days’ curing with salt and dill.) It helps, too, that Damon Little, my fellow kitchen intern, spent some months last year working as an apprentice in the stainless-steel surrounds of esteemed salumi-makers \u003ca href=\"http://www.boccalone.com\">Boccalone\u003c/a> in Oakland. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making bacon takes time, it’s true—eight days to cure, a few hours in the smoker, another hour or so in the oven to finish—but very little of it requires our hands or even our presence. It doesn’t take much time to weigh out a handful of salt and spices, rub it into a slab of pork belly, slap the belly onto a baking pan and pop it in the fridge. A turn and rub every other day takes maybe two minutes, tops. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/smokysmoker560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/smokysmoker560.jpg\" alt=\"Cured bacon slabs in the smoker.\" title=\"Cured bacon slabs in the smoker.\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34012\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cured bacon slabs in the smoker.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Then there’s the smoking, a couple of hours, but during almost all of that time, the bacon-to-be is quietly, smokily minding its own business while we go about ours. At the end, well-smoked, the slab goes into the oven to finish cooking. (This last step may not be necessary, depending on how hot your smoker gets; the main thing is getting the pork's internal temperature up to 150 degrees.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/darkbaconrack560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/darkbaconrack560.jpg\" alt=\"Bacon slabs, just out of the smoker, ready for the oven\" title=\"Bacon slabs, just out of the smoker, ready for the oven\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34009\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Bacon slabs, just out of the smoker, ready for the oven.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result, eschewing all modesty, is fantastic. Right out of the oven, the slabs are deep red-brown, lacquered like a Peking duck, with an outrageously appetizing aroma. Because our bacon doesn’t have to last for weeks in a butcher’s case or grocer’s fridge (we freeze it immediately and defrost it chunk by chunk as needed), we can make our cure lighter on both the salt and “pink salt” than most commercial versions. Enough to cure it safely, of course, but light enough that you can taste the flavor of the pork and aromatics as well, without your tongue being clubbed by salt. (What is pink salt, you ask? Also known as curing salt, DC cure, or DQ cure, it is a mixture of 6.25% sodium nitrite and 93.75% sodium chloride, or table salt. The nitrites in the salt mixture help prevent bacterial contamination and also preserve the meat's color during the curing process. It is dyed pink to prevent it from being confused with regular salt.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This last time we made bacon, we added maple syrup to a simple salt-and-pepper cure, to make something straightforward and breakfast-y out of half the meat. The other half became pancetta, cured without syrup but with more spices and aromatics, including plenty of rosemary. After curing, the meat was rolled and tied but not smoked, to make a savory bacon in the European style, useful as a base for sauces, stews, and ragus. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/tyingpancetta560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/tyingpancetta560.jpg\" alt=\"Damon LIttle tying pancetta.\" title=\"Damon LIttle tying pancetta.\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34007\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Damon LIttle tying pancetta.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any pieces of the bacon or pancetta not immediately fried up for brunch quickly find a home: turned into lardons for salad, sautéed with onions, carrots, and celery to give a backbone to lentils or duck-and-bean soup, or simply cooked up for a kitchen-crew snack on yesterday’s sourdough bread, piled with sliced tomatoes and a smear of leftover garlic mayonnaise or Caesar dressing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/pancetta560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/pancetta560.jpg\" alt=\"Pancetta\" title=\"Pancetta\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34011\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pancetta\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given that we generally cure and smoke four big slabs of organic Berkshire pork from Idaho’s Snake River Farms at a time, the savings in the kitchen budget are significant. High-quality, organic bacon like this would probably cost us four times what the plain pork belly does. When you’re a non-profit cooking daily for 25 to 30 people, sometimes for twice that, making your own value-added products in house is just good sense. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Good organic jam, free of high-fructose corn syrup and made with more fruit than sugar? Expensive, especially when one brunch can empty 3 or 4 fancy jars. A flat of organic, locally grown plums, a pound or two of organic sugar, a handful of lemons and a couple hours of my time? A much cheaper, and much more delicious, way to fill a pantry shelf. The apples from a staff member’s backyard tree are tasty but misshapen and pocked with holes, useless for out-of-hand eating. But a little time with a paring knife, an afternoon’s slow baking in the oven, and we have three quarts of autumn apple butter ready to be slathered on this Sunday’s waffles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Waffles served with bacon, naturally. Having come to bacon late in life (my parents’ one nod to traditional Jewish dietary laws was no pork in the house), I’ve never felt confident cooking it, especially since every bacon-lover seems to have a different bacon ideal—rigid or floppy, nearly burnt or just sizzled. Here, I’ve learned a good trick for when you’re making bacon for a crowd, when frying up a single panful just won’t do. We cut our bacon in fairly thick strips, laying them out side by side on parchment-lined sheet trays and popping them into the oven to cook until just crisp. Take the slices off the trays and lay them out on cooling racks to drain; this keeps them from getting soggy with grease and steam while you go about prepping the mimosas and flipping the frittatas. Pour the excess grease off the baking sheets (into an old jar or bowl, not down the sink, since it will thicken and harden into a drain-blocking sludge as it cools). To reheat, slide the bacon, still on its racks, back onto the baking sheets, and return to the oven until crisp and hot. Serve immediately, if you can bear to let any of it leave the kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/finalbacon560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/finalbacon560.jpg\" alt=\"Final bacon\" title=\"Final bacon\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34010\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Final bacon\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Smoked Maple Bacon\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Summary: \u003c/strong>\u003cem>The following recipe is adapted by Headlands kitchen intern Damon Little from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393058298/kqedorg-20\">Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing\u003c/a>, by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 60 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 4 hours\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 5 hours, plus 8 days' curing time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield: \u003c/strong>About 4 lbs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp red pepper flakes, crushed in a mortar\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n1.75 oz kosher salt or sea salt (not iodized)\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp pink salt (curing salt)\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup maple sugar or packed dark brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup maple syrup (grade B has the most flavor)\u003cbr>\n One 5-lb slab pork belly, preferably from a pasture-raised animal\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Combine the chili flakes, pepper, salt, pink salt, and sugar in a bowl and mix well. Add syrup and stir to combine.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Rub cure over both sides of the belly, making sure to work it under any flaps and into any crevices. Seal meat in a 2-gallon resealable plastic bag, or place in a non-reactive (glass, ceramic, stainless steel) container a little bigger than the meat. The salt and sugar will pull liquid out of the meat as it cures; make sure the meat stays bathed in this brine throughout the process.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Refrigerate meat, turning and rubbing the belly to redistribute the cure every other day, for 7 days. \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove belly from pan, rinse it thoroughly to remove any remaining cure, and pat dry. Put belly on a rack over a rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate, uncovered, for another 12 to 24 hours.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\nSmoke the belly in a hot smoker for 2 hours. The finished internal temperature of the bacon should be about 150 degrees F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If, after 2 hours, your bacon has not reached this temperature, remove from the smoker. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Place belly on a metal roasting rack over a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 60-90 minutes, until the internal temperature reaches 150 degrees.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\nRemove bacon from oven and let cool. When cool, cut into one-pound pieces, and wrap tightly in plastic. Refrigerate or freeze until ready to use.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/aRsqlj6AWps\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe>\u003cbr>\nThis tribute video was created to honor Jacques Pépin and was shown at the 4th Annual New York City Wine & Food Festival \u003ca href=\"http://www.nycwineandfoodfestival.com/2011/e/tribute_dinner_honoring_his_royal_highness%C2%A0prince_robert_of_luxembourg_and%C2%A0jacques_p%C3%A9pin_presented_by_bank_of_america%C2%A0-43\">Tribute Dinner\u003c/a> on October 1, 2011.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Jacques Pépin's new national TV series \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/essentialpepin/\">\u003cem>Essential Pépin\u003c/em>\u003c/a> begins airing October 15 on KQED. The series is based on his \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/09/29/essential-pepin-jacques-pepins-new-cookbook/\">new cookbook \u003cem>Essential Pépin\u003c/em>\u003c/a> which is a collection of over 700 of Jacques' favorite recipes from his career that has spanned six decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/essentialpepin/\">Essential Pépin website\u003c/a> just launched and you can view four complete episodes before the program premieres as well as view entire episodes one week before they air on TV. Over 75 recipes are available online, which include large color photos not available in the book. You can also connect with Jacques on \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ChefJacquesPepin\">Facebook\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/jacques_pepin\">Twitter\u003c/a> as well as view a \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/essentialpepin/behind-the-scenes/\">behind-the-scenes slideshow\u003c/a> from the taping of the series.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/essentialpepin\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/essential-pepin-screenshot-recipe.jpg\" alt=\"Essential Pepin website\" title=\"Essential Pepin website\" width=\"560\" height=\"369\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-33957\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
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"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
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"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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"rss": "https://www.cityarts.net/feed/"
}
},
"closealltabs": {
"id": "closealltabs",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/closealltabs",
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"order": 1
},
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"id": "code-switch-life-kit",
"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
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"meta": {
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 9
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
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"meta": {
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"source": "WNYC"
},
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
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},
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"id": "fresh-air",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"hidden-brain": {
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"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"order": 15
},
"link": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/2p3Fifq96nw9BPcmFdIq0o?si=39209f7b25774f38",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
"meta": {
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"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/id1492194549",
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},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
"meta": {
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},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
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"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
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"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 11
},
"link": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"subscribe": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw",
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},
"on-the-media": {
"id": "on-the-media",
"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm-3pm, MON 12am-1am",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/onTheMedia.png",
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"meta": {
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"source": "wnyc"
},
"link": "/radio/program/on-the-media",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/on-the-media/id73330715?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/On-the-Media-p69/",
"rss": "http://feeds.wnyc.org/onthemedia"
}
},
"pbs-newshour": {
"id": "pbs-newshour",
"title": "PBS NewsHour",
"info": "Analysis, background reports and updates from the PBS NewsHour putting today's news in context.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/",
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"source": "pbs"
},
"link": "/radio/program/pbs-newshour",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/pbs-newshour-full-show/id394432287?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/",
"rss": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/feeds/rss/podcasts/show"
}
},
"perspectives": {
"id": "perspectives",
"title": "Perspectives",
"tagline": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991",
"info": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/Perspectives_Tile_Final.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/perspectives/",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 14
},
"link": "/perspectives",
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