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"disqusTitle": "The Eternal Flame or Fondue Forever",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://homepage.mac.com/amybsherman/images/KQEDfonduepot.png\">\u003cbr>Warm weather the past few weeks may have fooled you into thinking we were heading into Spring. But get real, it's February! A few nice days don't mean the end of Winter. As long as we have to suffer through rain and cold, at least we can turn to the kitchen to take the chill off. Or in this case, the flame at the table. Cheese fondue is a perfect warm-you-up dish. It's also a very social way to dine whether you are having friends over or entertaining that one special person. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cheese fondue is one of those dishes like hollandaise sauce, ravioli, souffle--once you make it correctly you feel a tremendous amount of satisfaction. So don't let fondue scare you. It's actually fun to make once you get a hang of it. And just like mayonnaise or hollandaise there are things you can do to save it if it starts to go terribly wrong. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you think about it, it really is a feat of chemistry in the first place. A pot of wine, with melted cheese that turns into the ultimate cheese sauce or dip. The reason it works, is all based on the wine (or cider). The tartaric acid unbinds the proteins in the cheese allowing it to combine with the liquid, which is mostly water. The water in wine keeps the casein proteins in the cheese moist. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The great fear of course, is that the cheese will seize up and turn gloppy, There are a couple of things you can do to prevent this--one is to use a bit of starch, either three tablespoons of flour or about a tablespoon of cornstarch as \"insurance\" and the other is to have some lemon juice on hand. In case your cheese does start to seize up, add a couple drops of lemon juice and the acidity will unbind the protein. Aficionados also suggest when adding the cheese to the wine that you stir it in bit by bit, using a figure-eight or zig-zag motion rather than circular pattern to prevent the cheese from balling up. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't feel constricted to the traditional Gruyere and Emmental version. Even in Switzerland there are lots of variations using many different cheeses. Most cities and cantons in Switzerland have their own version of fondue, there are also French, Italian and Dutch versions...Here are some to consider. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Fribourg\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Gruyere is mixed with Vacherin Fribourgeois, or Freiburger Vacherin (which you may or may not be able to find since these are raw milk cheeses)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Geneva\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Walliser Bergkase is added to the more common Gruyere and Emmental. May include chopped morels\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Glarus\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Gruyere and Schabzieger are added to a roux of butter, flour and milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Eastern Switzerland\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Appenzeller and Vacherin cheeses are combined with dry cider\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Vaud\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Chopped garlic is added to the Gruyere \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Neuchatel\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Uses Neuchatel wine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Jura\u003c/b> (France)\u003cbr>Uses Comte cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Val d'Aosta\u003c/b> (Italy)\u003cbr>Fontina with egg yolks, milk, butter, flour and shaved white truffle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KaasDoop\u003c/b> (Holland)\u003cbr>Gouda, milk and brandy\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are a few more cheeses you can try in fondue, Beaufort, Tete de Moine, or Hoch Ybrig. Experiment and come up with your own personal blend based on the cheeses you like, mine is one part Gruyere, one part Emmental and 1/2 part Appenzeller.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My last tip is even when making cheese fondue for two, make enough for four. The leftovers are wonderful over toast or to add to a vegetable soup. Too little fondue in the pot will make it harder to dip and dipping is the name of the game. If you don't have a recipe, here's a link to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/recipe_views/views/105489\">tried and true version\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://homepage.mac.com/amybsherman/images/KQEDfonduepot.png\">\u003cbr>Warm weather the past few weeks may have fooled you into thinking we were heading into Spring. But get real, it's February! A few nice days don't mean the end of Winter. As long as we have to suffer through rain and cold, at least we can turn to the kitchen to take the chill off. Or in this case, the flame at the table. Cheese fondue is a perfect warm-you-up dish. It's also a very social way to dine whether you are having friends over or entertaining that one special person. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cheese fondue is one of those dishes like hollandaise sauce, ravioli, souffle--once you make it correctly you feel a tremendous amount of satisfaction. So don't let fondue scare you. It's actually fun to make once you get a hang of it. And just like mayonnaise or hollandaise there are things you can do to save it if it starts to go terribly wrong. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you think about it, it really is a feat of chemistry in the first place. A pot of wine, with melted cheese that turns into the ultimate cheese sauce or dip. The reason it works, is all based on the wine (or cider). The tartaric acid unbinds the proteins in the cheese allowing it to combine with the liquid, which is mostly water. The water in wine keeps the casein proteins in the cheese moist. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The great fear of course, is that the cheese will seize up and turn gloppy, There are a couple of things you can do to prevent this--one is to use a bit of starch, either three tablespoons of flour or about a tablespoon of cornstarch as \"insurance\" and the other is to have some lemon juice on hand. In case your cheese does start to seize up, add a couple drops of lemon juice and the acidity will unbind the protein. Aficionados also suggest when adding the cheese to the wine that you stir it in bit by bit, using a figure-eight or zig-zag motion rather than circular pattern to prevent the cheese from balling up. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't feel constricted to the traditional Gruyere and Emmental version. Even in Switzerland there are lots of variations using many different cheeses. Most cities and cantons in Switzerland have their own version of fondue, there are also French, Italian and Dutch versions...Here are some to consider. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Fribourg\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Gruyere is mixed with Vacherin Fribourgeois, or Freiburger Vacherin (which you may or may not be able to find since these are raw milk cheeses)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Geneva\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Walliser Bergkase is added to the more common Gruyere and Emmental. May include chopped morels\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Glarus\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Gruyere and Schabzieger are added to a roux of butter, flour and milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Eastern Switzerland\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Appenzeller and Vacherin cheeses are combined with dry cider\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Vaud\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Chopped garlic is added to the Gruyere \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Neuchatel\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Uses Neuchatel wine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Jura\u003c/b> (France)\u003cbr>Uses Comte cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Val d'Aosta\u003c/b> (Italy)\u003cbr>Fontina with egg yolks, milk, butter, flour and shaved white truffle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KaasDoop\u003c/b> (Holland)\u003cbr>Gouda, milk and brandy\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are a few more cheeses you can try in fondue, Beaufort, Tete de Moine, or Hoch Ybrig. Experiment and come up with your own personal blend based on the cheeses you like, mine is one part Gruyere, one part Emmental and 1/2 part Appenzeller.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My last tip is even when making cheese fondue for two, make enough for four. The leftovers are wonderful over toast or to add to a vegetable soup. Too little fondue in the pot will make it harder to dip and dipping is the name of the game. If you don't have a recipe, here's a link to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/recipe_views/views/105489\">tried and true version\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>One of my favorite recurring wine stories involves the travelers who, on a jaunt through Europe, are amazed at the quality and value of the 'local wine' which is served in any and every cafe or bistrot from the toe of the boot to the westernmost cliffs facing the Atlantic. As anyone who has traveled across the pond will tell you, the wine you get with meals which comes out of a barrel in the back, and is made in the co-op just up the road, can taste as good as the ones we get for 30 or 40 dollars a bottle back home. \u003cbr>Can this be true? Might it just be a case of 'magic in the moment', where the very fact that you were already into your third glass of wine in the early afternoon while tucking into an incomparably fresh omelette aux herbes fines or sensuously funky jamon serrano, or could wine that cheap actually be that good? (anyone have a favorite story about this -- in agreement or otherwise?)\u003cbr>I say it can. The reason that the five to ten dollar bottle of American wine tastes like it's worth five to ten bucks (or less) is because it's made by a huge factory which sources grapes from all over the place, throwing them together into massive blends of millions of gallons in order to deliver a moderately priced bottle. I will concede that what these folks are able to achieve with mass-produced wines is quite impressive, in terms of continuity of style and maintaining a general level of quality, but I feel safe in saying that they come up short on personality, memorability, and even food friendliness. \u003cbr>Without over-romanticizing the local village vintner or co-op, they're more likely to turn out a product -- no matter how primitive the conditions, no matter how maligned the grape variety -- that has enough character, flair, food-friendliness (specifically to the local cuisine, but probably in general as well), and regional typicity to put Californian bottles which cost twice as much to shame.\u003cbr>Now, don't think I'm saying you can't get a good bottle of California wine at a good price (they can still be found!), or that you have to travel to Europe to enjoy the fruits of the local village wines. Here's what I do instead: Head down to your favorite wine shop (K&L, the Ferry Building Wine Merchant and the Jug Shop are my favorites; BevMo is fun too but you can't usually speak directly with their wine buyers), tell them you want to spend next to nothing on a fun and satisfying wine (odds are good it will come from Europe, though Australia has some good bargains as well), and go home and cook up a dinner of whatever fare is typical of the region your wine came from. Who knows? The friends you have over to share in your provincial meal may go home with stories similar to the ones brought back from the 'old country'... So, what time should I be there?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For inspiration, here are a few of my current favorite varieties:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>From Portugal:\u003c/strong> any dry red table wine, or Vinho Verde\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Spain:\u003c/strong> Albarino, Garnacha (Grenache), Fino and Amontillado Sherry\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>France:\u003c/strong> Muscadet, Beaujolais (both Nouveau and non-Nouveau), Rose from Provence\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Austria:\u003c/strong> Gruner Veltliner\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Italy:\u003c/strong> Nero D'Avolo from Sicily, Kerner from Alto Adige, or something similar the merchant is excited about\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Greece:\u003c/strong> Xynomavro, or again, trust the vendor\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cp>A few years ago I started writing a monthly (actually, moonthly) eletter about my culinary adventures titled \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.stirringthecauldron.com/\">Stirring the Cauldron\u003c/a>.\" I send it out right around the new moon each month, and use the old \u003ca href=\"http://www.almanac.com/\">Farmers Almanac\u003c/a> moon names as inspiration to write about the foods I love. Many of the traditional moon names relate to food -- this is because the people were agricultural and EVERYTHING related to food! There was \"The Egg Moon,\" \"The Sap Moon,\" \"The Hunger Moon,\" etc.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the years the list has grown, my writing has developed, and last summer I got a contract with Chelsea Green Publishing Company to do a food book based on these moon names, and I am hard at work on it right now. The manuscript is due May 1, and the deadline is looming! The working title is \"Thirteen Moons: Food and the Hunger for Connection.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also last summer, farmers Andy Griffin and Julia Wiley of Mariquita Farm in Watsonville invited me down to a fundraising event they were doing. Andy had a huge iron cauldron that was a family heirloom and he wanted me to take it out for a spin and, of course, stir it. So we made a big cauldron-ful of beans that were delicious, and Andy took the photo that is now on my profile page -- of me stirring the cauldron.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A couple of months ago, Julia invited me to come down and teach a cooking class on the farm with that huge cauldron. The class is tomorrow! I'm getting ready for the drive down to Santa Cruz in the morning, and for the challenges of teaching very basic soupmaking techniques while trying to man (or woman) a cauldron over open burning fire that could easily hold 5 gallons or so of soup! Should be fun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you don't know about Mariquita Farm, I highly recommend checking out their produce at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market on Saturdays, and also checking them out on the web at \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariquita.com\">www.mariquita.com\u003c/a>. Andy is a wonderful writer who is working on a book of his own, and you can sign up for their eletter, the ladybug letter, on their website. You can also check out my class by going to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariquita.com/events/Events.upcoming.html\">2005 Farm Events link\u003c/a>. I think there are a few spots left, if you happen to be inspired to come check out the farm and watch me sweat over the fire as I valiantly try to reconnect with my ancestral foremothers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cp>Back when I was a cheesemonger at the Ferry Building and scoring early-morning pastries from the incomparable Frog Hollow, I discovered \u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.net/\">Blue Bottle Coffee\u003c/a>. Now, I'm not ashamed to admit that before this discovery, I had been a coffee wimp. Before Blue Bottle, I could only drink lattes that had been heavily laced with flavored syrups and topped with great drifts of whipped cream so thick you could barely find the caffeine underneath. But this was smooth. This was robust. This was love.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, I could never get my hands on Blue Bottle unless I was at the Ferry Building or across the Bay. However, as I'm no longer slinging cheese and really don't get across the Bay often enough, I was utterly bereft of the bitter brew. Plus, from what I was told, Blue Bottle only sold their stuff in whole beans and, at the time, they didn't have a shopable website.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a weird thing to reveal, but February 14th is the five-year anniversary of our coffee maker. Back then, my then-boyfriend did extensive research to procure the best, the brightest, and the most gifted coffee maker within our limited budget. At that time, we had no preference for a coffee maker that came with a grinder and for five years we rather happily brewed and drank pre-ground coffee. Oh, we were young then, we are so much older now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This past Christmas, my husband (again after extensive research that included visiting coffee geek chatrooms) surprised me with the most beautiful coffee grinder I have ever seen. It's big. It's retro. It's fire-engine red. After two months of Trader Joe's Kona, it dawned on me that we could now get coffee that had been denied to us all these years. (I blame the lack of quality coffee for the belated enlightenment.) A recent blurb in 7x7 announced that Blue Bottle was opening a little stand in my Hayes Valley neighborhood, but that news took a backseat to my brainstorm: I could finally buy beans!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I visited their impressively designed website and, after reading the pages delineating what beans were best for which kind of brewing technique, purchased a few bags. Because Blue Bottle is so obsessed (but in a very, very good way) with their \"artisan micro-roasting\" process, they want to make sure their customers receive their beans as soon as possible after roasting. Not only do they not charge extra for such expedient shipping, but the shipping is so expedient as to be miraculous if you live within 50 miles of their East Bay location. And? The adorable brown bags stenciled in blue with their logo is to die for. I'm such a sucker for packaging.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I got my aromatic box of Blue Bottle beans in time to surprise my husband for Valentine's Day, our coffeeversary, and we can't wait to start grinding, brewing, and drinking.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I visited their impressively designed website and, after reading the pages delineating what beans were best for which kind of brewing technique, purchased a few bags. Because Blue Bottle is so obsessed (but in a very, very good way) with their \"artisan micro-roasting\" process, they want to make sure their customers receive their beans as soon as possible after roasting. Not only do they not charge extra for such expedient shipping, but the shipping is so expedient as to be miraculous if you live within 50 miles of their East Bay location. And? The adorable brown bags stenciled in blue with their logo is to die for. I'm such a sucker for packaging.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I got my aromatic box of Blue Bottle beans in time to surprise my husband for Valentine's Day, our coffeeversary, and we can't wait to start grinding, brewing, and drinking.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://homepage.mac.com/amybsherman/images/KQEDhotchocolate.png\">\u003cbr>I don't drink coffee. Can't really; it makes my heart go pitter patter, but not in a good way. I do drink other hot beverages primarily tea and hot chocolate. Finding a good cup of hot tea is not so challenging but finding good hot chocolate is another story. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Case in point. The other day I stopped by a coffee spot on Market Street. The menu had both hot chocolate and hot cocoa. Did they really have both I asked? No, the proprietor said as he smiled and shook a packet of Swiss Miss in my general direction. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hot chocolate is not actually the same as hot cocoa. Here is how cocoa powder is made: the beans from the cacao tree are processed and the cocoa butter is extracted leaving what is called the chocolate liquor (not alcoholic) this is dried and powdered and becomes cocoa powder. Cocoa mix or instant cocoa is a combination of cocoa powder, sugar, some powdered milk and maybe some flavorings. What is it missing? In both the cocoa powder and the cocoa mix, there is no cocoa butter. A critical ingredient. In a chocolate bar it's the cocoa butter that makes it rich and gives that distinctive mouth feel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can get amazingly good hot chocolate in Paris (visit \u003ca href=\"http://chezpim.typepad.com/blogs/2005/01/hot_chocolates_.html\">Chez Pim\u003c/a> for a listing of great places to find it) Here in San Francisco it is a little bit more challenging to find a great cup of chocolate but a couple of places are worth mentioning. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My two top picks for divine hot chocolate (not cocoa!)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/c/a/2002/07/05/WB64413.DTL\">Cafe Madeleine\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>43 O'Farrell Street @ Market Street\u003cbr>300 California Street @ Battery Street\u003cbr>Here they make hot chocolate from ganache, a rich combination of semisweet chocolate and heavy cream. It is used to fill and frost cakes or melted into a cup of milk for hot chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cocoabellachocolates.com/main/home.asp\">CocoaBella\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>2102 Union St @ Webster\u003cbr>A graduate of the local culinary academy developed several decadent hot chocolates including hot lava and a peppermint version.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://homepage.mac.com/amybsherman/images/KQEDhotchocolate.png\">\u003cbr>I don't drink coffee. Can't really; it makes my heart go pitter patter, but not in a good way. I do drink other hot beverages primarily tea and hot chocolate. Finding a good cup of hot tea is not so challenging but finding good hot chocolate is another story. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Case in point. The other day I stopped by a coffee spot on Market Street. The menu had both hot chocolate and hot cocoa. Did they really have both I asked? No, the proprietor said as he smiled and shook a packet of Swiss Miss in my general direction. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hot chocolate is not actually the same as hot cocoa. Here is how cocoa powder is made: the beans from the cacao tree are processed and the cocoa butter is extracted leaving what is called the chocolate liquor (not alcoholic) this is dried and powdered and becomes cocoa powder. Cocoa mix or instant cocoa is a combination of cocoa powder, sugar, some powdered milk and maybe some flavorings. What is it missing? In both the cocoa powder and the cocoa mix, there is no cocoa butter. A critical ingredient. In a chocolate bar it's the cocoa butter that makes it rich and gives that distinctive mouth feel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can get amazingly good hot chocolate in Paris (visit \u003ca href=\"http://chezpim.typepad.com/blogs/2005/01/hot_chocolates_.html\">Chez Pim\u003c/a> for a listing of great places to find it) Here in San Francisco it is a little bit more challenging to find a great cup of chocolate but a couple of places are worth mentioning. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My two top picks for divine hot chocolate (not cocoa!)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/juanitas.jpg\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>Don't you love discovering that little hole in the wall place that you would never in a million years think to walk into? And then one day you do walk in ... and you find a culinary gem. More often than not, in search of these scattered pearls, you leave with regret, but every so often, you find the sparkle, the dishes you crave, a secret master in the kitchen. Nevermind the ripped nagahide-covered chairs, the peeling paint, the sketchy bathroom (okay, well, it's always nice if your culinary gem is actually kept clean!). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite hole-in-the wall is a little Mexican restaurant called Juanita's, \u003ca>located\u003c/a> in the heart of downtown Oakland. Having been open for the past 28 years, it's not really my discovery, it's been discovered by anyone who works or lives (or has worked or lived) anywhere near downtown Oakland. Monday through Friday, for lunchtime only, hordes of people line up in the hopes that they might be able to snag one of the few coveted tables in the pink-hued, bustling, sparsely decorated restaurant. And while it's not big on decor, it is big on taste (and portions!).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those in the know--myself included--crave the tender Friday carnitas (they aren't on the menu), the fiery pico de gallo with chunks of cooling creamy avocado (but only when it's in season), and the tangy chicken enchiladas bathed in green tomatillo sauce. The dark, deeply flavorful mole, served over enchiladas or tender pieces of chicken, will convince anyone to come back for more. Loosen your belt, because the portions are huge. Just when you think you can't fit another morsel in, you'll find room, only to leave in a sleepy stupor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love this family-run restaurant for more than the food though. It's the whole package. Alphonso, the owner, is quite a character; he's full of opinions and many interesting stories to tell (but you have to get on his good side first!). The restaurant is named after his grandmother, whose recipes grace the menu. His wife is at the helm of the kitchen, with Alphonso running the front. As with any proud restaurant, there are some rules. Be nice to Alphonso, don't seat yourself (wait for Alphonso to tell you where to sit), and stick to the menu. There are no variations allowed here. And finally, be patient. It might take a while to have your order taken, but the food comes quickly and is always hot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, now that I work in San Francisco, it's a rare occasion that I get to enjoy Juanita's. But if I'm lucky enough to be in the East Bay during the week, you can bet you will know where to find me...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are the details:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Juanita's Restaurant\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> 1734 Webster Street in downtown Oakland\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> 510-465-8767\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>(they do take lunchtime reservations for large parties)\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> M-F, 11:30am to 2pm (or thereabouts)\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/juanitas.jpg\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>Don't you love discovering that little hole in the wall place that you would never in a million years think to walk into? And then one day you do walk in ... and you find a culinary gem. More often than not, in search of these scattered pearls, you leave with regret, but every so often, you find the sparkle, the dishes you crave, a secret master in the kitchen. Nevermind the ripped nagahide-covered chairs, the peeling paint, the sketchy bathroom (okay, well, it's always nice if your culinary gem is actually kept clean!). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite hole-in-the wall is a little Mexican restaurant called Juanita's, \u003ca>located\u003c/a> in the heart of downtown Oakland. Having been open for the past 28 years, it's not really my discovery, it's been discovered by anyone who works or lives (or has worked or lived) anywhere near downtown Oakland. Monday through Friday, for lunchtime only, hordes of people line up in the hopes that they might be able to snag one of the few coveted tables in the pink-hued, bustling, sparsely decorated restaurant. And while it's not big on decor, it is big on taste (and portions!).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those in the know--myself included--crave the tender Friday carnitas (they aren't on the menu), the fiery pico de gallo with chunks of cooling creamy avocado (but only when it's in season), and the tangy chicken enchiladas bathed in green tomatillo sauce. The dark, deeply flavorful mole, served over enchiladas or tender pieces of chicken, will convince anyone to come back for more. Loosen your belt, because the portions are huge. Just when you think you can't fit another morsel in, you'll find room, only to leave in a sleepy stupor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love this family-run restaurant for more than the food though. It's the whole package. Alphonso, the owner, is quite a character; he's full of opinions and many interesting stories to tell (but you have to get on his good side first!). The restaurant is named after his grandmother, whose recipes grace the menu. His wife is at the helm of the kitchen, with Alphonso running the front. As with any proud restaurant, there are some rules. Be nice to Alphonso, don't seat yourself (wait for Alphonso to tell you where to sit), and stick to the menu. There are no variations allowed here. And finally, be patient. It might take a while to have your order taken, but the food comes quickly and is always hot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, now that I work in San Francisco, it's a rare occasion that I get to enjoy Juanita's. But if I'm lucky enough to be in the East Bay during the week, you can bet you will know where to find me...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Perhaps it is my British blood, or my British surname, but I refuse to submit to the prejudice against British cuisine. I know some of it is bad -- but there are real gems too. Some have become such commonplaces in our contemporary cuisine that we take them for granted. Scones, for example, or rare roast beef with horseradish. Two of my favorite things. If your prejudice against British cooking persists, I strongly encourage you to go get a copy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060585366/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The Whole Beast, Nose to Tale Eating\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Fergus Henderson. That should cure you.\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>One of my favorite comfort foods at this winter time of year is Cream of Parsnip Soup -- I think parsnips are one of the real forgotten jewels of wintertime cooking, and no one should let the season go by without making at least one pot of cream of parsnip soup. I offer my recipe here. I am also working on a recipe for crumpets made from the sourdough I keep alive, and early attempts have been delectable -- justifying the lucious allure of their name and memories of high teas in beautiful parlors. Once I have a 'recipe' I'll share it! Meanwhile I'm eating my Parsnip Soup while listening to Jane Austen's Emma on CD as I putz around my kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cream of Parsnip Soup\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>2 Tbsp butter\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>2-3 leeks, sliced into rounds and well rinsed\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>4 medium or 1-2 large parsnips, cut into chunks\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>1 bouquet garni (an herb bundle tied with string) including a sprig of parsley and a bay leaf, as well as any or all of the following: a sprig of thyme, a sprig of sage, a rosemary stem\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>Chicken stock (preferably a light-colored, not dark stock) or filtered water to cover, probably a little less than a quart\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>1 cup half-and-half or whole milk or 3/4 cup cream, créme fraiche, yogurt or buttermilk\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>Salt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Garnish:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>A dollop of creme fraiche;\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>and/or finely minced rosemary, thyme, sage, or parsley leaves (or a combination of these herbs);\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>or a grating of nutmeg;\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>or a grind of black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Procedure:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>1. Heat the butter in a medium-sized soup pot. Add the leeks and sauté until soft.\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>2. Add the parsnips and sauté for a moment.\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>3. Add stock or water to cover the vegetables by about 1/2 of an inch. Add the bouquet garni, cover, and bring the pot to a boil.\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>4. Reduce heat and simmer covered until all is soft.\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>5. Turn off the heat and remove the bouquet garni.\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>6. Puree the soup with an immersion blender (or in a blender), adding the milk or other dairy until the soup is the consistency you like, and a big pinch of salt and pepper as you blend. Taste the soup and adjust the seasonings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve with a dollop of creme fraiche (or yogurt) and a sprinkling of herbs, nutmeg, or pepper.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Perhaps it is my British blood, or my British surname, but I refuse to submit to the prejudice against British cuisine. I know some of it is bad -- but there are real gems too. Some have become such commonplaces in our contemporary cuisine that we take them for granted. Scones, for example, or rare roast beef with horseradish. Two of my favorite things. If your prejudice against British cooking persists, I strongly encourage you to go get a copy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060585366/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The Whole Beast, Nose to Tale Eating\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Fergus Henderson. That should cure you.\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>One of my favorite comfort foods at this winter time of year is Cream of Parsnip Soup -- I think parsnips are one of the real forgotten jewels of wintertime cooking, and no one should let the season go by without making at least one pot of cream of parsnip soup. I offer my recipe here. I am also working on a recipe for crumpets made from the sourdough I keep alive, and early attempts have been delectable -- justifying the lucious allure of their name and memories of high teas in beautiful parlors. Once I have a 'recipe' I'll share it! Meanwhile I'm eating my Parsnip Soup while listening to Jane Austen's Emma on CD as I putz around my kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cream of Parsnip Soup\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>2 Tbsp butter\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>2-3 leeks, sliced into rounds and well rinsed\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>4 medium or 1-2 large parsnips, cut into chunks\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>1 bouquet garni (an herb bundle tied with string) including a sprig of parsley and a bay leaf, as well as any or all of the following: a sprig of thyme, a sprig of sage, a rosemary stem\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>Chicken stock (preferably a light-colored, not dark stock) or filtered water to cover, probably a little less than a quart\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>1 cup half-and-half or whole milk or 3/4 cup cream, créme fraiche, yogurt or buttermilk\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>Salt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Garnish:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>A dollop of creme fraiche;\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>and/or finely minced rosemary, thyme, sage, or parsley leaves (or a combination of these herbs);\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>or a grating of nutmeg;\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>or a grind of black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Procedure:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>1. Heat the butter in a medium-sized soup pot. Add the leeks and sauté until soft.\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>2. Add the parsnips and sauté for a moment.\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>3. Add stock or water to cover the vegetables by about 1/2 of an inch. Add the bouquet garni, cover, and bring the pot to a boil.\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>4. Reduce heat and simmer covered until all is soft.\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>5. Turn off the heat and remove the bouquet garni.\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>6. Puree the soup with an immersion blender (or in a blender), adding the milk or other dairy until the soup is the consistency you like, and a big pinch of salt and pepper as you blend. Taste the soup and adjust the seasonings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Given that my first two posts involve alcohol, I just might be establishing myself as the Bay Area Bites Lush. No matter, I think my parents already believe that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyway, as many of you are probably already aware along with all its other good qualities, alcohol has medicinal benefits. My two favorite prescriptions are the classic \u003cb>Hot Toddy\u003c/b> and the sophisticated \u003cb>Gin and Tonic\u003c/b>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whenever I feel a twitchy sniffle coming on, I make bleary eyes at my husband who bustles out to the kitchen to whip up one of his restorative \u003cb>Hot Toddies\u003c/b>. I don't know if it's the vitamin C punch the lemon juice packs, or the antiseptic qualities of the Wild Turkey bourbon, or the moisturizing effect of the honey on a sore throat, but whatever it is, after one or two of those, I wake up the next morning with nary a trace of my previous ills. I'm not exactly sure why we get Wild Turkey bourbon but it seems to be my husband's preference. Feel free to make your own choice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dr. Mathra's Totally Hot Toddy Recipe:\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cinnamon stick\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>2 whole cloves\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>Juice from 1/2 a lemon\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>1 jigger (1 1/2 oz) bourbon of choice\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>Boiling water\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>1 tablespoon honey, preferably local\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crush the cinnamon stick and cloves slightly. A mortar and pestle works well for this as does the bottom of a heavy pan. Put the spices in a heatproof glass or mug and squeeze in the lemon juice. Add the bourbon and pour in the boiling water to fill the glass. Stir in the honey and serve very hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This might be a slightly less well-known cure, but for the women out there who suffer from the periodic effects of, well, \u003ci>cramps\u003c/i>, I can recommend a quick \u003cb>Gin and Tonic\u003c/b>. For years certain holistic circles have used juniper berry and juniper extract as a muscle relaxant, and what better way to ingest juniper than in a nice cool glass of gin and tonic? Manages to make me less irritable as well -- funny how that works.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Stephanie's Cramps-Be-Gone Gin and Tonic Recipe:\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ice cubes\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>Juice from 1/4 of a lemon\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>1 jigger (1 1/2 oz) gin of choice\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>Tonic water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You know, I usually just eyeball this -- pour in one or two fingers of gin (Bombay Sapphire is preferred, but Tanqueray is also nicely smooth), add a squirt of lemon and the tonic, but the other night, I realized that there's actually a very specific ritual to my Gin and Tonics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I start by dropping in no more than two cubes of ice (any more could dilute the drink and we don't want that, do we?), and then I squeeze the lemon, drizzling the juice over the ice cubes. Next, I drop the spent lemon in the glass and slosh in the measured gin. Fill up the remaining space with tonic water* and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not snake oil if it works, right?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*I have decided opinions about many things, especially when it comes to putting stuff in mouth and I definitely have a decided opinion of tonic water. I find Canada Dry far too sweet for a good, bracing Gin and Tonic. Good ol' Schwepps is really the way to go, especially since the Brits are the inventors of the Gin and Tonic as a way to pickle themselves with quinine to fight off malaria in India. But that's another post entirely. Whatever you do, stay away from diet tonic! \u003ci>Shudder.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Given that my first two posts involve alcohol, I just might be establishing myself as the Bay Area Bites Lush. No matter, I think my parents already believe that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyway, as many of you are probably already aware along with all its other good qualities, alcohol has medicinal benefits. My two favorite prescriptions are the classic \u003cb>Hot Toddy\u003c/b> and the sophisticated \u003cb>Gin and Tonic\u003c/b>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whenever I feel a twitchy sniffle coming on, I make bleary eyes at my husband who bustles out to the kitchen to whip up one of his restorative \u003cb>Hot Toddies\u003c/b>. I don't know if it's the vitamin C punch the lemon juice packs, or the antiseptic qualities of the Wild Turkey bourbon, or the moisturizing effect of the honey on a sore throat, but whatever it is, after one or two of those, I wake up the next morning with nary a trace of my previous ills. I'm not exactly sure why we get Wild Turkey bourbon but it seems to be my husband's preference. Feel free to make your own choice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dr. Mathra's Totally Hot Toddy Recipe:\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cinnamon stick\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>2 whole cloves\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>Juice from 1/2 a lemon\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>1 jigger (1 1/2 oz) bourbon of choice\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>Boiling water\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>1 tablespoon honey, preferably local\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crush the cinnamon stick and cloves slightly. A mortar and pestle works well for this as does the bottom of a heavy pan. Put the spices in a heatproof glass or mug and squeeze in the lemon juice. Add the bourbon and pour in the boiling water to fill the glass. Stir in the honey and serve very hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This might be a slightly less well-known cure, but for the women out there who suffer from the periodic effects of, well, \u003ci>cramps\u003c/i>, I can recommend a quick \u003cb>Gin and Tonic\u003c/b>. For years certain holistic circles have used juniper berry and juniper extract as a muscle relaxant, and what better way to ingest juniper than in a nice cool glass of gin and tonic? Manages to make me less irritable as well -- funny how that works.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Stephanie's Cramps-Be-Gone Gin and Tonic Recipe:\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ice cubes\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>Juice from 1/4 of a lemon\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>1 jigger (1 1/2 oz) gin of choice\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>Tonic water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You know, I usually just eyeball this -- pour in one or two fingers of gin (Bombay Sapphire is preferred, but Tanqueray is also nicely smooth), add a squirt of lemon and the tonic, but the other night, I realized that there's actually a very specific ritual to my Gin and Tonics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I start by dropping in no more than two cubes of ice (any more could dilute the drink and we don't want that, do we?), and then I squeeze the lemon, drizzling the juice over the ice cubes. Next, I drop the spent lemon in the glass and slosh in the measured gin. Fill up the remaining space with tonic water* and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not snake oil if it works, right?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*I have decided opinions about many things, especially when it comes to putting stuff in mouth and I definitely have a decided opinion of tonic water. I find Canada Dry far too sweet for a good, bracing Gin and Tonic. Good ol' Schwepps is really the way to go, especially since the Brits are the inventors of the Gin and Tonic as a way to pickle themselves with quinine to fight off malaria in India. But that's another post entirely. Whatever you do, stay away from diet tonic! \u003ci>Shudder.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Ice Cream Chronicles, Part 1",
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"content": "\u003cp>I love ice cream. No, I mean I \u003cstrong>really\u003c/strong> love ice cream. I love ice cream so much that I ditched our ancient, puny, barely-functioning refrigerator and bought a new refrigerator because the old one wouldn't freeze my ice cream canister. I even had to rip out two of the six cabinets in our kitchen to fit a normal-sized refrigerator. No, I swear it's true. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I decided that if I was going to go to such lengths for ice cream, then the next step would be to figure out how to maximize the potential of my electric ice cream maker. It's a \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuisinart.com/\">Cuisinart\u003c/a>. It gets really good \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00000JGRT/qid=1106607293/sr=8-1/ref=pd_csp_1/104-1128283-3420764?v=glance&s=home-garden&n=507846\">reviews,\u003c/a> and it does work well as long as you use it correctly. After much trial and error, here are the steps that I found were crucial:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1) Freeze the hell out of the canister and don't take it out of the freezer until you are completely set up and ready to freeze your creamy delight.\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>2) Everything should be prepared in advance. The ice cream base needs to be super cold. The machine should be on the work surface, plugged in. Have an ice cream receptacle (that you will transfer the semi-frozen treat into) ready along with some plastic wrap. Get a rubber spatula.\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>3) Your adrenaline should kick in at this point. Everything needs to be done quickly. Run to the freezer, grab the canister, slam it onto the machine base, put the beater into place, put on the top, turn on the machine, and then pour in your base.\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>4) Okay, now you can relax, sit back, have a glass of \u003ca href=\"http://www.klwines.com/\">wine\u003c/a>, make some \u003ca href=\"http://www.recchiuticonfections.com/\">chocolate\u003c/a> sauce, whatever. Just keep that motor running for about 30 minutes. Once your base starts to resemble ice cream, you need to start moving quickly again. Use the spatula to get it into the receptacle. Seal it with a kiss, or plastic wrap, and toss it into the freezer for a little while to firm up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, none of this matters if you don't have a good recipe. Personally, I prefer French-style custard ice cream, rich with egg yolks and cream. If you are even thinking of substituting skim milk for the cream, don't bother making the ice cream. Gelato is a whole different story (don't worry, I'll get to that in another IC Chron). Which is what leads me to my new favorite ice cream recipe: Meyer lemon ice cream. (Yes, ice cream is seasonal, good for all seasons, and just as delicious in the winter as it is in the heat of the summer--you just have to crank up the heat and snuggle under a blanket to enjoy it).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kim's Meyer Lemon Ice Cream\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large \u003ca href=\"http://www.fourwindsgrowers.com/lore/meyer.html\">Meyer lemons\u003c/a>, preferably organic\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>1 pint heavy whipping cream\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>3/4 cup whole milk\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>1/2 vanilla bean, halved lengthwise\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>5 large egg yolks, preferably organic\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>Scant 1 cup granulated sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Use a sharp peeler to remove only the colored part of the lemon zest from 2 lemons, in large strips. Try not to remove the bitter white pith, but if you do, you can use a small, sharp knife to scrape it off. In a saucepan, gently heat the cream and milk just until steaming and small bubbles form around the edge of the pan. Use the small knife to scrape the seeds out of the vanilla bean pod and add the pod, seeds, and lemon zest strips to the warm cream. Remove from the heat, cover, and let infuse for 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place a medium-sized bowl inside a large bowl filled with ice water. Set aside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a clean saucepan, heat 1-2 inches of water over medium heat until simmering. Using a balloon whisk, in a heatproof bowl, beat together the egg yolks and sugar until smooth and very pale yellow. Reheat the cream mixture just until it begins to steam, but before it boils, and then slowly pour it in stages through a fine-mesh sieve into the yolk mixture, whisking as you add it (it's easier if you ask someone to help you with this step). Stir the mixture together thoroughly and then place the bowl on top of the saucepan of simmering water. Stir the mixture slowly until it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon (or reaches 185F/85C). Be careful of the steam when you remove the bowl from the saucepan. Pour the ice cream base into the medium bowl (the one set in the larger bowl of ice water). Use a fine zester (a microplane works best) to zest the remaining two lemons into the base. Stir and let the base cool to room temperature. Press a sheet of plastic wrap onto the top of the base, cover, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or preferably overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you are ready to make the ice cream, juice the 4 Meyer lemons and strain the juice through a fine-mesh sieve. Stir the juice into the ice cream base. Review the steps of setting up the ice cream maker (esp if you have a Cuisinart like I do) and then freeze the ice cream according to the manufacturer's directions (or mine). Scrape the base into an airtight container and freeze for at least 1 hour before serving. Enjoy!\u003cbr>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>I love ice cream. No, I mean I \u003cstrong>really\u003c/strong> love ice cream. I love ice cream so much that I ditched our ancient, puny, barely-functioning refrigerator and bought a new refrigerator because the old one wouldn't freeze my ice cream canister. I even had to rip out two of the six cabinets in our kitchen to fit a normal-sized refrigerator. No, I swear it's true. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I decided that if I was going to go to such lengths for ice cream, then the next step would be to figure out how to maximize the potential of my electric ice cream maker. It's a \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuisinart.com/\">Cuisinart\u003c/a>. It gets really good \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00000JGRT/qid=1106607293/sr=8-1/ref=pd_csp_1/104-1128283-3420764?v=glance&s=home-garden&n=507846\">reviews,\u003c/a> and it does work well as long as you use it correctly. After much trial and error, here are the steps that I found were crucial:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1) Freeze the hell out of the canister and don't take it out of the freezer until you are completely set up and ready to freeze your creamy delight.\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>2) Everything should be prepared in advance. The ice cream base needs to be super cold. The machine should be on the work surface, plugged in. Have an ice cream receptacle (that you will transfer the semi-frozen treat into) ready along with some plastic wrap. Get a rubber spatula.\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>3) Your adrenaline should kick in at this point. Everything needs to be done quickly. Run to the freezer, grab the canister, slam it onto the machine base, put the beater into place, put on the top, turn on the machine, and then pour in your base.\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>4) Okay, now you can relax, sit back, have a glass of \u003ca href=\"http://www.klwines.com/\">wine\u003c/a>, make some \u003ca href=\"http://www.recchiuticonfections.com/\">chocolate\u003c/a> sauce, whatever. Just keep that motor running for about 30 minutes. Once your base starts to resemble ice cream, you need to start moving quickly again. Use the spatula to get it into the receptacle. Seal it with a kiss, or plastic wrap, and toss it into the freezer for a little while to firm up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, none of this matters if you don't have a good recipe. Personally, I prefer French-style custard ice cream, rich with egg yolks and cream. If you are even thinking of substituting skim milk for the cream, don't bother making the ice cream. Gelato is a whole different story (don't worry, I'll get to that in another IC Chron). Which is what leads me to my new favorite ice cream recipe: Meyer lemon ice cream. (Yes, ice cream is seasonal, good for all seasons, and just as delicious in the winter as it is in the heat of the summer--you just have to crank up the heat and snuggle under a blanket to enjoy it).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kim's Meyer Lemon Ice Cream\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large \u003ca href=\"http://www.fourwindsgrowers.com/lore/meyer.html\">Meyer lemons\u003c/a>, preferably organic\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>1 pint heavy whipping cream\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>3/4 cup whole milk\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>1/2 vanilla bean, halved lengthwise\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>5 large egg yolks, preferably organic\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>Scant 1 cup granulated sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Use a sharp peeler to remove only the colored part of the lemon zest from 2 lemons, in large strips. Try not to remove the bitter white pith, but if you do, you can use a small, sharp knife to scrape it off. In a saucepan, gently heat the cream and milk just until steaming and small bubbles form around the edge of the pan. Use the small knife to scrape the seeds out of the vanilla bean pod and add the pod, seeds, and lemon zest strips to the warm cream. Remove from the heat, cover, and let infuse for 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place a medium-sized bowl inside a large bowl filled with ice water. Set aside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a clean saucepan, heat 1-2 inches of water over medium heat until simmering. Using a balloon whisk, in a heatproof bowl, beat together the egg yolks and sugar until smooth and very pale yellow. Reheat the cream mixture just until it begins to steam, but before it boils, and then slowly pour it in stages through a fine-mesh sieve into the yolk mixture, whisking as you add it (it's easier if you ask someone to help you with this step). Stir the mixture together thoroughly and then place the bowl on top of the saucepan of simmering water. Stir the mixture slowly until it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon (or reaches 185F/85C). Be careful of the steam when you remove the bowl from the saucepan. Pour the ice cream base into the medium bowl (the one set in the larger bowl of ice water). Use a fine zester (a microplane works best) to zest the remaining two lemons into the base. Stir and let the base cool to room temperature. Press a sheet of plastic wrap onto the top of the base, cover, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or preferably overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you are ready to make the ice cream, juice the 4 Meyer lemons and strain the juice through a fine-mesh sieve. Stir the juice into the ice cream base. Review the steps of setting up the ice cream maker (esp if you have a Cuisinart like I do) and then freeze the ice cream according to the manufacturer's directions (or mine). Scrape the base into an airtight container and freeze for at least 1 hour before serving. Enjoy!\u003cbr>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Yeah, from the look on the wine guy's face at Andronico's, he clearly thought we were yanking his chain when we asked him that. Once we explained that yes, wine in a can actually existed, and no, we weren't two of the horseman of the Apocalypse, he shrugged and pointed to Sophia in a bottle. He didn't have the canned stuff but BevMo did.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sofia is a sparkling Blanc de Blanc (100% white Chardonnay grapes; no ruddy Pinot Noir grapes were harmed when making this wine) wine in a slim pink can from Coppola Vineyards. Is it a gimmick? That's pretty much what my husband announced when he unwrapped the bendy, extendable fuchsia straw and poked it into the mouth of the aluminum can. I decided it would only be a gimmick if the wine in the can tasted like it was wine in a can.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, it wasn't \u003ci>bad\u003c/i>, but it wasn't great. Maybe I'm only a seasonal sparkling wine drinker, but the two cans I sucked down certainly didn't make me want to go out and stock my wine cellar (it's really only a box under the table) with hexagonal metallic pink boxes. There is nothing special or transcendent about the taste -- it's even slightly astringent on my throat, which means it's too dry for my palate -- and I think a price tag of $18.00 for what amounts to four glasses of wine is a bit steep just for the packaging. I am a sucker for packaging, though, which is why I wanted to try the wine in the first place. But overall: meh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The straw actually needs to go back to the wine in a can engineers. It order for it to be extendable, it's made up of two separate pieces of tube -- one within another -- and at the joint, there's no airtight seal. Ever tried to sip a Coke with a straw that's been punctured? Same effect. Lots of sucking, not much drinking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I guess club kids and socialites can go on sipping from these little cans and feel sophisticated and trendy but as I got up the last bit of wine with my straw, the loud slurping noise certainly wasn't sophisticated. Maybe smashing the can on my forehead was trendy?\u003cbr>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cp>For anyone who cares about the sustainability of our food system and agriculture, I highly recommend Jared Diamond's new book \u003cstrong>Collapse: How Societies Choose to Fail or Succeed\u003c/strong>. Diamond got a Pulitzer Prize a few years ago for Guns, Germs, and Steel -- which I found mind-blowing and also recommend to anyone who is interested in the Big Picture when it comes to food. In Collapse, Diamond asks the question:\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>Why do some societies collapse and some endure?\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>In order to answer the question, he looks at past civilizations, both ones that collapsed (Easter Island, Anasazi, Classic Maya, Norse Greenland) and ones that endured (Inuit, New Guinea, Japan). He looks at a number of different contributing factors, but those of us who study sustainable agriculture will be particularly interested in his strong emphasis on use of resources, especially for food. The availability of wild foods and the ability to cultivate domesticated foods on the same land century after century are huge factors. For people like me who are fascinated by native foodways, the book is also full of details about traditional diets.\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>I am only halfway through the book, and Diamond is about to look at modern examples of collapse vs. sustainability, including Haiti vs. Dominican Republic, Rwanda, and Australia. He'll conclude with what we can learn from the past successes and failures of human beings to live within their means. I can't wait to hear what he has to say...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jessica Prentice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://homepage.mac.com/amybsherman/images/onfoodandcooking.png\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>One of the latest books to get cooks excited is not a cookbook. Not exactly. It's an updated version of Bay Area local \u003ca href=\"http://www.curiouscook.com/haroldmcgee.shtml\">Harold McGee's\u003c/a> groundbreaking book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.curiouscook.com/onfoodandcooking.shtml\">On Food and Cooking, The Science and Lore of the Kitchen\u003c/a>. The new version has been revised and updated, twenty years after originally published.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This book has long been a favorite of professional chefs in part because it is easily digested, making food science accessible and practical. After training and a vocation in physics and astronomy, McGee came back down to earth, first teaching literature then writing a book on the most practical science, that of the kitchen. Stanford and Berkeley Universities may be filled with Noble prize winning scientists, but McGee is surely the most popular scientist among cooks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While professional chefs are innovating, home cooks may simply be trying to perfect a favorite recipe. Curious about the history of chocolate or how to more safely prepare a rare hamburger? Want to know the five different techniques for making hollandaise sauce? McGee is your go to guy. Not just a book about science, there is plenty of history and tips and health information to feed your hunger for knowledge. It may just be the ultimate kitchen resource book. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Click \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/epArchive/R412071000\">here\u003c/a> to hear Michael Krasny's interview with Harold McGee that aired on Forum last month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"description": "One of the latest books to get cooks excited is not a cookbook. Not exactly. It's an updated version of Bay Area local Harold McGee's groundbreaking book, On Food and Cooking, The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. The new version has been revised and updated, twenty years after originally published. This book has long",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://homepage.mac.com/amybsherman/images/onfoodandcooking.png\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>One of the latest books to get cooks excited is not a cookbook. Not exactly. It's an updated version of Bay Area local \u003ca href=\"http://www.curiouscook.com/haroldmcgee.shtml\">Harold McGee's\u003c/a> groundbreaking book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.curiouscook.com/onfoodandcooking.shtml\">On Food and Cooking, The Science and Lore of the Kitchen\u003c/a>. The new version has been revised and updated, twenty years after originally published.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This book has long been a favorite of professional chefs in part because it is easily digested, making food science accessible and practical. After training and a vocation in physics and astronomy, McGee came back down to earth, first teaching literature then writing a book on the most practical science, that of the kitchen. Stanford and Berkeley Universities may be filled with Noble prize winning scientists, but McGee is surely the most popular scientist among cooks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While professional chefs are innovating, home cooks may simply be trying to perfect a favorite recipe. Curious about the history of chocolate or how to more safely prepare a rare hamburger? Want to know the five different techniques for making hollandaise sauce? McGee is your go to guy. Not just a book about science, there is plenty of history and tips and health information to feed your hunger for knowledge. It may just be the ultimate kitchen resource book. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Click \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/epArchive/R412071000\">here\u003c/a> to hear Michael Krasny's interview with Harold McGee that aired on Forum last month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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