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"disqusTitle": "How to Make Chili",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/bowl-of-chili.jpg\" alt=\"bowl of chili\" title=\"bowl of chili\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13995\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I used to think chili was a mishmash of ground meat, powdered spices, and chopped bell peppers. This is, after all, how everyone made it when I was growing up. It wasn't until I was an adult that I realized chili is really a stew. Historically, it's more like Beef Bourguignon than a sloppy joe in that it's made of chunks of meat, vegetables, and a simmering liquid. Sure, the vegetables are chilies, but the core starting point -- slowly braised hunks of meat -- are what make chile and other stews not only similar, but appealing in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are many different types of chili and everyone seems to have a favorite. My Texas friends, for instance, say that the whole point of chili is to meld together the smoky taste of dried chilies with slow-cooked meat and that tomatoes and beans have no place in the pot. Others that I know (usually health-conscious people from my home region of Southern California) claim that using beef is too fattening and so they make their chilies with turkey and beans (I try to avoid those dinners). Some people use only whole chiles, while others use only chile powders. Many use fresh peppers while others swear by dried and smoked. And then, of course, there are vegetarian chilies. The variations are limitless. Now I am in no way a Texan, but there's no denying the fact that chili is a Southwestern dish (and that Texas chili is delicious), so I tend to gravitate toward their style more than any other. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how do you make a great pot of meat chili? Let's break the process down into easy categories:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/seasoning-your-meat.jpg\" alt=\"seasoning your meat\" title=\"seasoning your meat\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13996\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Meat\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBecause it's a stew, the most important ingredient in this dish is the meat. When I make my chili, the meat is the star. I like to use 3/4 beef chuck (cut into pieces, not ground) along with 1/4 pork butt. Using only beef is fine, but I find that the subtle addition of a little pork fat intensifies the meat flavors nicely. Another option is to fry up some bacon and then use the bacon fat to cook the beef. But whatever you use, just be sure not to use lean cuts of meat. Let's face it, chili isn't a diet dish and you really do need some fat to give everything the rich flavor you expect. No turkey!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/peppers.jpg\" alt=\"peppers\" title=\"peppers\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13997\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chiles\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThere is a world of chiles out there to explore. Co-starring in my own culinary tale are 6 different types of chile peppers, both dried and fresh varieties. While fresh pasillas, Anaheims, serranos, and jalapenos impart a verdant heat, dried anchos and chipotles in adobo add a rich undercurrent of picante smokiness. You can also experiment with a variety of other dried and fresh chiles. Have fun with this. If you go to the right market, you'll find a world of beautiful chiles out there. And don’t worry if you're not a lover of spicy dishes. There are plenty of mild peppers out there worth exploring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A note on using dried chiles: Now I realize that using real dried chiles can seem intimidating. For years I stared at dried chiles stacked in Mexican grocery stores or in cellophane bags at my regular market, but was afraid to use them. They seemed mysterious and indecipherable, so I stuck with only powdered chiles. Yet once I realized that you just need to heat them in a dry pan and then soak in some water before pureeing, I mustered up the courage to give them a try. Other than being a little embarrassed to find they were so easy to work with, my maiden voyage using dried peppers was uneventful and I've never looked back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tomatoes and Beans (To use or not to use…)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSo how about those controversial tomatoes and beans? If you're a purist or a true blooded Texan who wants all meat, then by all means skip these in your chili. That said, before making any major decisions, consider that both add great flavor and texture to the dish. I like to first cook up a batch of dried beans, leaving them al dente so they finish cooking in the chili itself. This allows the beans to soak up the flavors of the stew as they finish cooking. The tomatoes then provide a little sweetness to counterbalance the heat and smoky flavors of the chiles. For me, beans and tomatoes add so much flavor and texture that I can't imagine my chili without them. But the beauty of making your own pot of chili is that you get to decide what you like and don't like, so add them if you want.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/beer-and-coffee.jpg\" alt=\"beer and coffee\" title=\"beer and coffee\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14004\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Liquids\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWhether you add beans and tomatoes or just use meat and chiles, you will need some sort of liquid so you can simmer everything. As far as I'm concerned, a mixture of both beer and brewed coffee is essential. Beer's yeast and hops introduce a robust full-bodied taste that joins the rest of the stews flavors nicely, while the coffee provides an undertone that accents the overarching spices in a way that vanilla makes chocolate taste more profound.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nOther stuff\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAnd, speaking of chocolate, a whisper of cocoa powder or Mexican chocolate, added at the end, helps mellow and fuse the chili's flavors. I also like to add in some masa harina (finely ground corn used to make tortillas) or just some ground corn meal to thicken things up if the chile is too soupy. You can also add other ingredients, like fresh corn, if you'd like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Time\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMaking chili is an all-day affair because the ingredients need time to mature and come together. I let everything simmer for 4-5 hours on the stove. If you want, I'm sure you can use a crock pot, although I've never done this myself. Whatever you do, don't hurry the process because you need all those flavors to mature and come together, and only time can do this. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So that's how you make chili. As with many other dishes, the keys to making a great meal are simply a little patience, along with some quality ingredients -- in this case a variety of chiles and stew-sized chunks of meat. If you follow these guidelines, you'll have your own hearty and smoky pot of chili to be proud of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/a-big-pot-of-chili.jpg\" alt=\"a big pot of chili\" title=\"a big pot of chili\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13998\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chili\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> One large pot of chili\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nIngredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 lbs beef chuck cut into 1/4-inch pieces\u003cbr>\n1 lb pork butt cut into 1/4-inch pieces\u003cbr>\n2 Tbsp chile powder (I like chile molido, but any mild chile powder is fine)\u003cbr>\n1 Tbsp cumin\u003cbr>\n1 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n3-4 dried ancho chiles (depending on size)\u003cbr>\nCorn or vegetable oil for sautéing\u003cbr>\n2/3 of a 7 oz can chipotle chiles in adobo sauce (use 1 full can if you want the dish extra smoky and spicy)\u003cbr>\n1 large onion chopped\u003cbr>\n2 cloves garlic minced\u003cbr>\n1/2 serrano pepper seeded and minced (use the whole pepper if you like your chili spicy)\u003cbr>\n1 jalapeño seeded and minced\u003cbr>\n2 pasilla peppers seeded and chopped small\u003cbr>\n2 Anaheim peppers seeded and chopped small\u003cbr>\n1 Tbsp ground cumin (freshly toasted seeds ground at home are best but preground is fine)\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp all spice\u003cbr>\n1 tsp dried ground coriander\u003cbr>\n1/2 - 1 bottle beer\u003cbr>\n1 cup coffee\u003cbr>\n1 15 oz can diced tomatoes or 2 cups freshly chopped tomatoes (no seeds)\u003cbr>\n2 cups freshly cooked beans (kidney, navy, black or pinto are fine)\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup masa harina or finely ground corn meal (optional)\u003cbr>\n1 heaping Tbsp cocoa or 1/4 round grated Mexican chocolate\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. The night before you plan on making your chili, chop up your meat and season with the 2 Tbsp chile powder, 1 Tbsp cumin, and 1 tsp salt. Rub the seasoning all over the meat. Set in the refrigerator overnight.\u003cbr>\n2. In a dry pan (I like to use a medium cast iron pan) heat your ancho chiles on high, turning every 30 seconds or so until the peppers are warmed through and hot. Add enough water to cover the peppers and then cover the pan and let sit for 30 minutes. Drain pan of water and then puree the peppers in a blender or chopper. Set aside. (If you do this the night before, be sure to refrigerate the puree).\u003cbr>\n3. Heat a large heavy pot (I like to use a cast-iron dutch oven) on medium high heat. When the pot is hot, add in 1 Tbsp oil and then add in enough meat to mostly cover, but not crowd, the pan. Sear meat on all sides and then remove from pan. Repeat (adding in more oil if necessary) until all the meat is browned. Remove all meat from the pan.\u003cbr>\n4. Add a little more oil to the pan and then sauté your onions and garlic for a few minutes. Add in the chopped peppers (serranos, jalapeno, pasilla and Anaheim) and cook for 2-3 minutes.\u003cbr>\n5. Add the meat back into the pan (with the vegetables) and then mix in the pureed anchos, chipotles, tomatoes, cooked beans, cumin, all spice, coriander, beer and coffee. You should have enough liquid to just barely cover the meat, but not so much that the meat is swimming in liquid. Add the other 1/2 of the beer if it looks like you need more liquid.\u003cbr>\n6. Bring the chili to a soft boil and then cover and set the burner to simmer. Stir at least once an hour, more often if your pan has a thin bottom so you don't burn the stew. Let the mixture simmer for 4-5 hours. Add in some salt after a couple of hours as needed.\u003cbr>\n7. Once all the flavors have melded, add in the chocolate and stir in.\u003cbr>\n8. If the chili seems too soupy, or if it's a little too spicy, add in 1/4 cup masa harina or finely ground corn meal that has been mixed with a little water or beer to make a slurry. Mix in thoroughly.\u003cbr>\n9. Serve with corn bread and whatever sides sound good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/chili-with-all-the-fixins.jpg\" alt=\"chili with all the fixins\" title=\"chili with all the fixins\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13999\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nPossible chili sides\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cotija, cheddar or Jack cheese\u003cbr>\nCorn chips\u003cbr>\nCorn tortillas\u003cbr>\nCorn nuts\u003cbr>\nBlack or green olives\u003cbr>\nGreen onions\u003cbr>\nWhite chopped onions\u003cbr>\nSour cream\u003cbr>\nFritos\u003cbr>\nCilantro\u003cbr>\nAvocado\u003cbr>\nSliced jalapenos\u003cbr>\nYou favorite hot sauce\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "I used to think chili was a mishmash of ground meat, powdered spices, and chopped bell peppers. This is, after all, how everyone made it when I was growing up. It wasn't until I was an adult that I realized chili is really a stew. Historically, it's more like Beef Bourguignon than a sloppy joe in that it's made of chunks of meat, vegetables, and a simmering liquid. Sure, the vegetables are chilies, but the core starting point -- slowly braised hunks of meat -- are what make chile and other stews not only similar, but appealing in the first place.\r\n\r\nSo how do you make a great pot of meat chili? Let's break the process down into easy categories.\r\n",
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"description": "I used to think chili was a mishmash of ground meat, powdered spices, and chopped bell peppers. This is, after all, how everyone made it when I was growing up. It wasn't until I was an adult that I realized chili is really a stew. Historically, it's more like Beef Bourguignon than a sloppy joe in that it's made of chunks of meat, vegetables, and a simmering liquid. Sure, the vegetables are chilies, but the core starting point -- slowly braised hunks of meat -- are what make chile and other stews not only similar, but appealing in the first place.\r\n\r\nSo how do you make a great pot of meat chili? Let's break the process down into easy categories.\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/bowl-of-chili.jpg\" alt=\"bowl of chili\" title=\"bowl of chili\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13995\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I used to think chili was a mishmash of ground meat, powdered spices, and chopped bell peppers. This is, after all, how everyone made it when I was growing up. It wasn't until I was an adult that I realized chili is really a stew. Historically, it's more like Beef Bourguignon than a sloppy joe in that it's made of chunks of meat, vegetables, and a simmering liquid. Sure, the vegetables are chilies, but the core starting point -- slowly braised hunks of meat -- are what make chile and other stews not only similar, but appealing in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are many different types of chili and everyone seems to have a favorite. My Texas friends, for instance, say that the whole point of chili is to meld together the smoky taste of dried chilies with slow-cooked meat and that tomatoes and beans have no place in the pot. Others that I know (usually health-conscious people from my home region of Southern California) claim that using beef is too fattening and so they make their chilies with turkey and beans (I try to avoid those dinners). Some people use only whole chiles, while others use only chile powders. Many use fresh peppers while others swear by dried and smoked. And then, of course, there are vegetarian chilies. The variations are limitless. Now I am in no way a Texan, but there's no denying the fact that chili is a Southwestern dish (and that Texas chili is delicious), so I tend to gravitate toward their style more than any other. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how do you make a great pot of meat chili? Let's break the process down into easy categories:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/seasoning-your-meat.jpg\" alt=\"seasoning your meat\" title=\"seasoning your meat\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13996\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Meat\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBecause it's a stew, the most important ingredient in this dish is the meat. When I make my chili, the meat is the star. I like to use 3/4 beef chuck (cut into pieces, not ground) along with 1/4 pork butt. Using only beef is fine, but I find that the subtle addition of a little pork fat intensifies the meat flavors nicely. Another option is to fry up some bacon and then use the bacon fat to cook the beef. But whatever you use, just be sure not to use lean cuts of meat. Let's face it, chili isn't a diet dish and you really do need some fat to give everything the rich flavor you expect. No turkey!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/peppers.jpg\" alt=\"peppers\" title=\"peppers\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13997\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chiles\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThere is a world of chiles out there to explore. Co-starring in my own culinary tale are 6 different types of chile peppers, both dried and fresh varieties. While fresh pasillas, Anaheims, serranos, and jalapenos impart a verdant heat, dried anchos and chipotles in adobo add a rich undercurrent of picante smokiness. You can also experiment with a variety of other dried and fresh chiles. Have fun with this. If you go to the right market, you'll find a world of beautiful chiles out there. And don’t worry if you're not a lover of spicy dishes. There are plenty of mild peppers out there worth exploring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A note on using dried chiles: Now I realize that using real dried chiles can seem intimidating. For years I stared at dried chiles stacked in Mexican grocery stores or in cellophane bags at my regular market, but was afraid to use them. They seemed mysterious and indecipherable, so I stuck with only powdered chiles. Yet once I realized that you just need to heat them in a dry pan and then soak in some water before pureeing, I mustered up the courage to give them a try. Other than being a little embarrassed to find they were so easy to work with, my maiden voyage using dried peppers was uneventful and I've never looked back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tomatoes and Beans (To use or not to use…)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSo how about those controversial tomatoes and beans? If you're a purist or a true blooded Texan who wants all meat, then by all means skip these in your chili. That said, before making any major decisions, consider that both add great flavor and texture to the dish. I like to first cook up a batch of dried beans, leaving them al dente so they finish cooking in the chili itself. This allows the beans to soak up the flavors of the stew as they finish cooking. The tomatoes then provide a little sweetness to counterbalance the heat and smoky flavors of the chiles. For me, beans and tomatoes add so much flavor and texture that I can't imagine my chili without them. But the beauty of making your own pot of chili is that you get to decide what you like and don't like, so add them if you want.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/beer-and-coffee.jpg\" alt=\"beer and coffee\" title=\"beer and coffee\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14004\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Liquids\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWhether you add beans and tomatoes or just use meat and chiles, you will need some sort of liquid so you can simmer everything. As far as I'm concerned, a mixture of both beer and brewed coffee is essential. Beer's yeast and hops introduce a robust full-bodied taste that joins the rest of the stews flavors nicely, while the coffee provides an undertone that accents the overarching spices in a way that vanilla makes chocolate taste more profound.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nOther stuff\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAnd, speaking of chocolate, a whisper of cocoa powder or Mexican chocolate, added at the end, helps mellow and fuse the chili's flavors. I also like to add in some masa harina (finely ground corn used to make tortillas) or just some ground corn meal to thicken things up if the chile is too soupy. You can also add other ingredients, like fresh corn, if you'd like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Time\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMaking chili is an all-day affair because the ingredients need time to mature and come together. I let everything simmer for 4-5 hours on the stove. If you want, I'm sure you can use a crock pot, although I've never done this myself. Whatever you do, don't hurry the process because you need all those flavors to mature and come together, and only time can do this. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So that's how you make chili. As with many other dishes, the keys to making a great meal are simply a little patience, along with some quality ingredients -- in this case a variety of chiles and stew-sized chunks of meat. If you follow these guidelines, you'll have your own hearty and smoky pot of chili to be proud of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/a-big-pot-of-chili.jpg\" alt=\"a big pot of chili\" title=\"a big pot of chili\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13998\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chili\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> One large pot of chili\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nIngredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 lbs beef chuck cut into 1/4-inch pieces\u003cbr>\n1 lb pork butt cut into 1/4-inch pieces\u003cbr>\n2 Tbsp chile powder (I like chile molido, but any mild chile powder is fine)\u003cbr>\n1 Tbsp cumin\u003cbr>\n1 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n3-4 dried ancho chiles (depending on size)\u003cbr>\nCorn or vegetable oil for sautéing\u003cbr>\n2/3 of a 7 oz can chipotle chiles in adobo sauce (use 1 full can if you want the dish extra smoky and spicy)\u003cbr>\n1 large onion chopped\u003cbr>\n2 cloves garlic minced\u003cbr>\n1/2 serrano pepper seeded and minced (use the whole pepper if you like your chili spicy)\u003cbr>\n1 jalapeño seeded and minced\u003cbr>\n2 pasilla peppers seeded and chopped small\u003cbr>\n2 Anaheim peppers seeded and chopped small\u003cbr>\n1 Tbsp ground cumin (freshly toasted seeds ground at home are best but preground is fine)\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp all spice\u003cbr>\n1 tsp dried ground coriander\u003cbr>\n1/2 - 1 bottle beer\u003cbr>\n1 cup coffee\u003cbr>\n1 15 oz can diced tomatoes or 2 cups freshly chopped tomatoes (no seeds)\u003cbr>\n2 cups freshly cooked beans (kidney, navy, black or pinto are fine)\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup masa harina or finely ground corn meal (optional)\u003cbr>\n1 heaping Tbsp cocoa or 1/4 round grated Mexican chocolate\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. The night before you plan on making your chili, chop up your meat and season with the 2 Tbsp chile powder, 1 Tbsp cumin, and 1 tsp salt. Rub the seasoning all over the meat. Set in the refrigerator overnight.\u003cbr>\n2. In a dry pan (I like to use a medium cast iron pan) heat your ancho chiles on high, turning every 30 seconds or so until the peppers are warmed through and hot. Add enough water to cover the peppers and then cover the pan and let sit for 30 minutes. Drain pan of water and then puree the peppers in a blender or chopper. Set aside. (If you do this the night before, be sure to refrigerate the puree).\u003cbr>\n3. Heat a large heavy pot (I like to use a cast-iron dutch oven) on medium high heat. When the pot is hot, add in 1 Tbsp oil and then add in enough meat to mostly cover, but not crowd, the pan. Sear meat on all sides and then remove from pan. Repeat (adding in more oil if necessary) until all the meat is browned. Remove all meat from the pan.\u003cbr>\n4. Add a little more oil to the pan and then sauté your onions and garlic for a few minutes. Add in the chopped peppers (serranos, jalapeno, pasilla and Anaheim) and cook for 2-3 minutes.\u003cbr>\n5. Add the meat back into the pan (with the vegetables) and then mix in the pureed anchos, chipotles, tomatoes, cooked beans, cumin, all spice, coriander, beer and coffee. You should have enough liquid to just barely cover the meat, but not so much that the meat is swimming in liquid. Add the other 1/2 of the beer if it looks like you need more liquid.\u003cbr>\n6. Bring the chili to a soft boil and then cover and set the burner to simmer. Stir at least once an hour, more often if your pan has a thin bottom so you don't burn the stew. Let the mixture simmer for 4-5 hours. Add in some salt after a couple of hours as needed.\u003cbr>\n7. Once all the flavors have melded, add in the chocolate and stir in.\u003cbr>\n8. If the chili seems too soupy, or if it's a little too spicy, add in 1/4 cup masa harina or finely ground corn meal that has been mixed with a little water or beer to make a slurry. Mix in thoroughly.\u003cbr>\n9. Serve with corn bread and whatever sides sound good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/chili-with-all-the-fixins.jpg\" alt=\"chili with all the fixins\" title=\"chili with all the fixins\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13999\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nPossible chili sides\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cotija, cheddar or Jack cheese\u003cbr>\nCorn chips\u003cbr>\nCorn tortillas\u003cbr>\nCorn nuts\u003cbr>\nBlack or green olives\u003cbr>\nGreen onions\u003cbr>\nWhite chopped onions\u003cbr>\nSour cream\u003cbr>\nFritos\u003cbr>\nCilantro\u003cbr>\nAvocado\u003cbr>\nSliced jalapenos\u003cbr>\nYou favorite hot sauce\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Strawberry-Rhubarb Preserves ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/04/strawberries500.jpg\" alt=\"strawberries - photo by Stephane von Stephane\" title=\"strawberries - photo by Stephane von Stephane\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12390\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo by Stephane von Stephane\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Range through the jam shelves of your local fancy-food shop (or your own pantry), and you'll find a lot of fancy-pants jam. You know the kind I mean: the ones with four fruits and three spices and a couple of liqueurs thrown in, the kiwi-lime-guava preserves, the blueberry-tangerine-coriander-gewurztraminer jellies. These are especially prevalent in tourist areas with gourmet pretensions (hello, Napa!) where the desired clientele is looking for pricier thrills than the usual fudge and hot sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Someone, maybe you, is buying these, opening the jar once, and then consigning it to a sticky eternity behind the tarragon-Riesling mustard in the fridge door. And short of being dug out once more to glaze a chicken breast, there it stays, while on the front shelf the plain old jar of Smuckers strawberry is replaced again and again. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How do I know this? Because I'm insatiably, sneakily curious about everyone's eating and shopping habits. Lately I've been doing a lot of house-sitting for friends (and friends of friends), and I'll admit it: if I'm sleeping in your house, whatever is under your bed or stashed in your medicine cabinets is safe from me. Furry pink handcuffs, the leftover magic mushrooms from Burning Man, leather whatever: I'll never even bother to look. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time you get back, however, I will be able to give you a full inventory of your kitchen. I will know if you have a muffin pan (and puzzle mightily for hours if you don't), whether you drink tea or coffee, and where you keep the grater and the whisks. Is your baking powder is this year's vintage or bought 3 boyfriends ago? Did you even know there was a unopened package of candied ginger at the back of the cupboard next to the fridge? I won't drain your special single malt or break into the $10 Scharffenberger baking bar, but I'll know you better by the company your pantry keeps. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what you're not eating are those fancy jams. I also know this because, like most beginning jam makers, I used to make those kinds of jams, and give them to you as lovely house presents at any opportunity. The rum-brown-sugar-peach-nectarine preserves, I was so proud of them! The Meyer lemon chutney from food writer/novelist Laurie Colwin's recipe, carefully aged for a couple months just as she recommends. Blueberry with Cointreau, plums with Bordeaux: I made them, you accepted them with grace (thanks, Mom!) and then you hinted, ever so gently, that maybe you didn't want rum anything on your toast in the morning. What you wanted was what everyone wants: Strawberry jam. Apricot preserves. Blackberry jelly. Raspberry jam, straight up and tasting of summery sun-warmed fruit, with just enough sugar to round out the fruit's natural sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So these are the jams I make now, and if you want the recipients of your jam-making largesse to actually devour your wares with pleasure, rather than sadly leaving them on the shelf, testaments to more good will than good mornings, this is what you will do, too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Start with the best and most-loved, strawberry jam. But not the easiest. For all its gingham-y, morning-in-America, \u003ci> come on in and sit right down and make yourself at home\u003c/i> aura, the strawberry actually has some fussy little habits. For starters, pectin. Or the lack of it: strawberries are right up there with cherries in the low-pectin pantheon. Which means that unlike its high-pectin friend, the blackberry (which practically jams itself given a little sugar and a quick, frothing boil), strawberries need a little persuasion to form anything like a gel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You could, of course, get a bottle of Sure-Jel or a packet of powdered pectin and make perfectly bounceable strawberry jam every time. I never do. There's nothing wrong with packaged pectin; it's a natural product, usually derived from apples or lemons. But a fruit mixture gels when the pectin is exposed to a particular ratio of sugar to acid. When you bump up the amount of pectin in the mix, you have to add a correspondingly large amount of sugar to make the science work. You'll get a firm set, but the resulting jam will be, to my taste, unremittingly sweet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyway, there's no need. In my experience, you can make jam from just about anything using nothing more than fruit, sugar, and a lemon or two. Simple, easy, and spontaneous, depending on what's ripe in your backyard, your neighbor's yard or at the market. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, back to our little diva princess, the strawberry. Her real friends are the best and oldest ones: sugar and time. But let me introduce her newest BFF, tart to her sweet, rosy pink to her ruby red. Yes, I'm talking about rhubarb, the prettiest pink stalk you ever did see. It's a perennial plant, growing from a crown and sending up long, celery-like stalks every spring that start out green and flush pink-red as the weather warms. The broad leaves look like spinach, but are mildly toxic and should never be eaten. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes called pie plant, rhubarb is one of the happiest harbingers of spring, arriving just as the first strawberries begin to appear in the market, a welcome tang of fruity pink at a time when the delights of local cherries and apricots are still a good month away. You can match rhubarb with strawberry in any ratio: a lot of rhubarb with just a few berries for sweetness, or plenty of strawberries with just a little rhubarb for texture and tartness. Which reminds me: if you've never had rhubarb before, you won't forget your first taste of it raw. Like sorrel, another lively spring arrival, it's tongue-twistingly sour. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crunchy-firm when raw, rhubarb collapses when cooked into what can only be described as a lush stringiness. The easiest way to cook it is as a simple compote: chopped rhubarb tossed with sugar, left to sit for 15 minutes or so, then gently simmered until tender. If you're adding strawberries, just toss them into the rhubarb off the heat and let them soften in the residual warmth. It's good hot, cold, by itself, spooned over ice cream or mixed into yogurt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After years of loving strawberry-rhubarb compote every spring, it seemed only natural to try adding some to my strawberry preserves. This would thicken up the runniness that these preserves can be heir to, while adding a dimension of fruity tartness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the first step, you'll need to macerate the strawberries in sugar for anywhere from 4 to 8 hours, i.e., overnight. You nip off the green hulls and cut up the berries--halves if small, quarters or smaller if large--and put them in a large glass or ceramic bowl. Sprinkle on the sugar, mix gently, cover and walk away. If it's very hot where you are, put them in the fridge, but otherwise, room temp is fine. Every couple of hours, if you think of it, give them a gentle stir to make sure the sugar is dissolving evenly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By morning, the sugar will have draw out much of the liquid trapped inside the berries, and you'll have some slightly shrunken-looking berries floating in a lot of cough-syrup-red liquid. Add the juice of a lemon and the chopped rhubarb, then dump the whole thing into a non-aluminum pot. Bring to a simmer and let cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then pour back to the big bowl. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover again, this time with a clean dish towel so steam can escape, and let sit for another 4 to 6 hours. Look again, and you'll see some now majorly shrunken berries and cubes of rhubarb bobbing in even more, now slightly darker, red liquid. You're getting close now!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, here's the trick, and credit goes to the sublime Helen Witty, whose books \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Fancy-Pantry-Helen-Witty/dp/089480037X\">Fancy Pantry\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Good-Stuff-Cookbook-Over-Delicacies/dp/0761102876/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1271009251&sr=1-1\">Good Stuff\u003c/a> (now both out of print, but available at amazon.com or the library) are infallible resources for all kinds of pantry-stocking recipes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, put a colander over a large, preferably wide and short (rather than narrow and tall) non-aluminum pot. Dump in your strawberry mixture and let all the liquid drain into the pot. Set the fruit-filled colander aside, and bring the liquid to a boil. Let it boil vigorously for some 10 to 15 minutes, until the liquid has darkened and thickened to a syrupy consistency. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By subjecting the liquid, not the fruit, to the bulk of the boiling, the fruit stays fresh and vivid. Once the liquid has thickened, add the fruit and cook, stirring frequently, for another 3 to 5 minutes, until mixture has thickened and looks like jam. It's that simple, really. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Good as they are on toast, these preserves also make a wonderful addition to French toast. Take a thick slice of challah bread and cut a pocket into the side. Beat cream cheese until fluffy, adding honey and vanilla extract to taste. Spread a spoonful of cream cheese and a spoonful of preserves inside the pocket, then dip in a mixture of egg and milk. Fry in butter over medium heat until golden brown and gently puffed on each side. Serve with maple syrup or powdered sugar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/04/finished-strawberry-jam500.jpg\" alt=\"finished strawberry-rhubarb preserves Photo by Stephane von Stephane\" title=\"finished strawberry-rhubarb preserves Photo by Stephane von Stephane\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12392\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo by Stephane von Stephane\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Strawberry Rhubarb Preserves\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes 4 to 5 half-pint jars\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 pint boxes strawberries, rinsed, hulled, and halved or quartered\u003cbr>\n2 to 2 1/2 cups sugar\u003cbr>\n1 lb rhubarb, trimmed and chopped\u003cbr>\n1 lemon, juiced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a large ceramic or glass bowl, toss berries with sugar. Cover and let rest, stirring occasionally, for 4 to 8 hours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Add chopped rhubarb and juice of 1 lemon to strawberry mixture. Pour into a large, shallow non-reactive pot. Bring to a simmer and cook for 2 or 3 minutes. Pour back into bowl, cover with a clean dishtowel and let rest for another 4 hours or so. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Set a colander over the same pot. Pour strawberry mixture into colander and let drain. Remove colander and set aside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Bring liquid to a boil and let boil, stirring occasionally, for 10-15 minutes, or until liquid has thickened to a syrupy consistency.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Add fruit, reduce heat, and cook, stirring frequently, until fruit looks glossy and translucent and mixture has thickened to a softly jammy consistency, about 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Spoon into sterilized canning jars and top with two-part canning lids. Place filled, sealed jars into a pot of boiling water to cover, and let simmer for 8 minutes. Remove jars and let cool undisturbed. Check for seals and store in a cool, dry place. Or, spoon preserves into clean, empty jars and top with lids. Let cool at room temperature, then refrigerate for up to 1 month. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Spring has sprung and with it arrives our little diva princess, the strawberry. And let me introduce her BFF, tart to her sweet, rosy pink to her ruby red. Yes, I'm talking about rhubarb, the prettiest pink stalk you ever did see, ready right now to be turned into strawberry-rhubarb preserves for your spring table. ",
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"description": "Spring has sprung and with it arrives our little diva princess, the strawberry. And let me introduce her BFF, tart to her sweet, rosy pink to her ruby red. Yes, I'm talking about rhubarb, the prettiest pink stalk you ever did see, ready right now to be turned into strawberry-rhubarb preserves for your spring table. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/04/strawberries500.jpg\" alt=\"strawberries - photo by Stephane von Stephane\" title=\"strawberries - photo by Stephane von Stephane\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12390\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo by Stephane von Stephane\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Range through the jam shelves of your local fancy-food shop (or your own pantry), and you'll find a lot of fancy-pants jam. You know the kind I mean: the ones with four fruits and three spices and a couple of liqueurs thrown in, the kiwi-lime-guava preserves, the blueberry-tangerine-coriander-gewurztraminer jellies. These are especially prevalent in tourist areas with gourmet pretensions (hello, Napa!) where the desired clientele is looking for pricier thrills than the usual fudge and hot sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Someone, maybe you, is buying these, opening the jar once, and then consigning it to a sticky eternity behind the tarragon-Riesling mustard in the fridge door. And short of being dug out once more to glaze a chicken breast, there it stays, while on the front shelf the plain old jar of Smuckers strawberry is replaced again and again. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How do I know this? Because I'm insatiably, sneakily curious about everyone's eating and shopping habits. Lately I've been doing a lot of house-sitting for friends (and friends of friends), and I'll admit it: if I'm sleeping in your house, whatever is under your bed or stashed in your medicine cabinets is safe from me. Furry pink handcuffs, the leftover magic mushrooms from Burning Man, leather whatever: I'll never even bother to look. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time you get back, however, I will be able to give you a full inventory of your kitchen. I will know if you have a muffin pan (and puzzle mightily for hours if you don't), whether you drink tea or coffee, and where you keep the grater and the whisks. Is your baking powder is this year's vintage or bought 3 boyfriends ago? Did you even know there was a unopened package of candied ginger at the back of the cupboard next to the fridge? I won't drain your special single malt or break into the $10 Scharffenberger baking bar, but I'll know you better by the company your pantry keeps. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what you're not eating are those fancy jams. I also know this because, like most beginning jam makers, I used to make those kinds of jams, and give them to you as lovely house presents at any opportunity. The rum-brown-sugar-peach-nectarine preserves, I was so proud of them! The Meyer lemon chutney from food writer/novelist Laurie Colwin's recipe, carefully aged for a couple months just as she recommends. Blueberry with Cointreau, plums with Bordeaux: I made them, you accepted them with grace (thanks, Mom!) and then you hinted, ever so gently, that maybe you didn't want rum anything on your toast in the morning. What you wanted was what everyone wants: Strawberry jam. Apricot preserves. Blackberry jelly. Raspberry jam, straight up and tasting of summery sun-warmed fruit, with just enough sugar to round out the fruit's natural sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So these are the jams I make now, and if you want the recipients of your jam-making largesse to actually devour your wares with pleasure, rather than sadly leaving them on the shelf, testaments to more good will than good mornings, this is what you will do, too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Start with the best and most-loved, strawberry jam. But not the easiest. For all its gingham-y, morning-in-America, \u003ci> come on in and sit right down and make yourself at home\u003c/i> aura, the strawberry actually has some fussy little habits. For starters, pectin. Or the lack of it: strawberries are right up there with cherries in the low-pectin pantheon. Which means that unlike its high-pectin friend, the blackberry (which practically jams itself given a little sugar and a quick, frothing boil), strawberries need a little persuasion to form anything like a gel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You could, of course, get a bottle of Sure-Jel or a packet of powdered pectin and make perfectly bounceable strawberry jam every time. I never do. There's nothing wrong with packaged pectin; it's a natural product, usually derived from apples or lemons. But a fruit mixture gels when the pectin is exposed to a particular ratio of sugar to acid. When you bump up the amount of pectin in the mix, you have to add a correspondingly large amount of sugar to make the science work. You'll get a firm set, but the resulting jam will be, to my taste, unremittingly sweet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyway, there's no need. In my experience, you can make jam from just about anything using nothing more than fruit, sugar, and a lemon or two. Simple, easy, and spontaneous, depending on what's ripe in your backyard, your neighbor's yard or at the market. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, back to our little diva princess, the strawberry. Her real friends are the best and oldest ones: sugar and time. But let me introduce her newest BFF, tart to her sweet, rosy pink to her ruby red. Yes, I'm talking about rhubarb, the prettiest pink stalk you ever did see. It's a perennial plant, growing from a crown and sending up long, celery-like stalks every spring that start out green and flush pink-red as the weather warms. The broad leaves look like spinach, but are mildly toxic and should never be eaten. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes called pie plant, rhubarb is one of the happiest harbingers of spring, arriving just as the first strawberries begin to appear in the market, a welcome tang of fruity pink at a time when the delights of local cherries and apricots are still a good month away. You can match rhubarb with strawberry in any ratio: a lot of rhubarb with just a few berries for sweetness, or plenty of strawberries with just a little rhubarb for texture and tartness. Which reminds me: if you've never had rhubarb before, you won't forget your first taste of it raw. Like sorrel, another lively spring arrival, it's tongue-twistingly sour. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crunchy-firm when raw, rhubarb collapses when cooked into what can only be described as a lush stringiness. The easiest way to cook it is as a simple compote: chopped rhubarb tossed with sugar, left to sit for 15 minutes or so, then gently simmered until tender. If you're adding strawberries, just toss them into the rhubarb off the heat and let them soften in the residual warmth. It's good hot, cold, by itself, spooned over ice cream or mixed into yogurt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After years of loving strawberry-rhubarb compote every spring, it seemed only natural to try adding some to my strawberry preserves. This would thicken up the runniness that these preserves can be heir to, while adding a dimension of fruity tartness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the first step, you'll need to macerate the strawberries in sugar for anywhere from 4 to 8 hours, i.e., overnight. You nip off the green hulls and cut up the berries--halves if small, quarters or smaller if large--and put them in a large glass or ceramic bowl. Sprinkle on the sugar, mix gently, cover and walk away. If it's very hot where you are, put them in the fridge, but otherwise, room temp is fine. Every couple of hours, if you think of it, give them a gentle stir to make sure the sugar is dissolving evenly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By morning, the sugar will have draw out much of the liquid trapped inside the berries, and you'll have some slightly shrunken-looking berries floating in a lot of cough-syrup-red liquid. Add the juice of a lemon and the chopped rhubarb, then dump the whole thing into a non-aluminum pot. Bring to a simmer and let cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then pour back to the big bowl. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover again, this time with a clean dish towel so steam can escape, and let sit for another 4 to 6 hours. Look again, and you'll see some now majorly shrunken berries and cubes of rhubarb bobbing in even more, now slightly darker, red liquid. You're getting close now!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, here's the trick, and credit goes to the sublime Helen Witty, whose books \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Fancy-Pantry-Helen-Witty/dp/089480037X\">Fancy Pantry\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Good-Stuff-Cookbook-Over-Delicacies/dp/0761102876/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1271009251&sr=1-1\">Good Stuff\u003c/a> (now both out of print, but available at amazon.com or the library) are infallible resources for all kinds of pantry-stocking recipes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, put a colander over a large, preferably wide and short (rather than narrow and tall) non-aluminum pot. Dump in your strawberry mixture and let all the liquid drain into the pot. Set the fruit-filled colander aside, and bring the liquid to a boil. Let it boil vigorously for some 10 to 15 minutes, until the liquid has darkened and thickened to a syrupy consistency. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By subjecting the liquid, not the fruit, to the bulk of the boiling, the fruit stays fresh and vivid. Once the liquid has thickened, add the fruit and cook, stirring frequently, for another 3 to 5 minutes, until mixture has thickened and looks like jam. It's that simple, really. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Good as they are on toast, these preserves also make a wonderful addition to French toast. Take a thick slice of challah bread and cut a pocket into the side. Beat cream cheese until fluffy, adding honey and vanilla extract to taste. Spread a spoonful of cream cheese and a spoonful of preserves inside the pocket, then dip in a mixture of egg and milk. Fry in butter over medium heat until golden brown and gently puffed on each side. Serve with maple syrup or powdered sugar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/04/finished-strawberry-jam500.jpg\" alt=\"finished strawberry-rhubarb preserves Photo by Stephane von Stephane\" title=\"finished strawberry-rhubarb preserves Photo by Stephane von Stephane\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12392\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo by Stephane von Stephane\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Strawberry Rhubarb Preserves\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes 4 to 5 half-pint jars\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 pint boxes strawberries, rinsed, hulled, and halved or quartered\u003cbr>\n2 to 2 1/2 cups sugar\u003cbr>\n1 lb rhubarb, trimmed and chopped\u003cbr>\n1 lemon, juiced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a large ceramic or glass bowl, toss berries with sugar. Cover and let rest, stirring occasionally, for 4 to 8 hours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Add chopped rhubarb and juice of 1 lemon to strawberry mixture. Pour into a large, shallow non-reactive pot. Bring to a simmer and cook for 2 or 3 minutes. Pour back into bowl, cover with a clean dishtowel and let rest for another 4 hours or so. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Set a colander over the same pot. Pour strawberry mixture into colander and let drain. Remove colander and set aside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Bring liquid to a boil and let boil, stirring occasionally, for 10-15 minutes, or until liquid has thickened to a syrupy consistency.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Add fruit, reduce heat, and cook, stirring frequently, until fruit looks glossy and translucent and mixture has thickened to a softly jammy consistency, about 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Spoon into sterilized canning jars and top with two-part canning lids. Place filled, sealed jars into a pot of boiling water to cover, and let simmer for 8 minutes. Remove jars and let cool undisturbed. Check for seals and store in a cool, dry place. Or, spoon preserves into clean, empty jars and top with lids. Let cool at room temperature, then refrigerate for up to 1 month. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "How to Season, Clean and Care for a Cast Iron Pan",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/cast-iron-pans1.jpg\" alt=\"cast iron pans\" title=\"cast iron pans\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-11288\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was raised on food that was cooked in cast iron pans. My mother's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/04/19/giving-up-sunday-gravy-a-lost-food-tradition/\">Sunday Gravy\u003c/a> was always started in the 10-inch version and my morning eggs were cooked in the 6 1/2-inch. From chicken to steaks, zucchini to eggplant, and biscuits to corn bread, my mom's cast iron pans were in continual use. Yet when I grew up, moved out, and started my own kitchen, I somehow forgot about my cast-iron roots. After purchasing and then cooking with some thinly constructed aluminum pans, I felt the need to register for fancy pans when I got married. My sister generously gave us an enormous set of Calphalon, but after a year or two of fretting about cleaning them properly and making sure they never went in the dishwasher or got scratched, I finally remembered there was a much simpler alternative.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And now, almost 10 years and thousands of meals later, I'm just as happy with my decision to switch to cast iron as I was the day I purchased my pans from Ace Hardware. As far as I'm concerned, swanky brands that are expensive can't hold a candle to modest cast iron (well, except for an amazing large copper pan, which I doubt I'll ever be able to afford).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So Why is Cast Iron so Great?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In case you're unfamiliar with cast iron pans, they have a lot going for them. Here's a list of some reasons I love them so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>•\tThey radiate heat beautifully, so your food doesn't cook unevenly.\u003cbr>\n•\tYou can go from stovetop to the oven, so there' s never a need to transfer food to a baking dish after sautéing.\u003cbr>\n•\tOnce your pans are seasoned, they have a natural non-stick surface so you don't have to breath in that awful chemical-smelling aroma that is emitted when you overheat a Teflon pan.\u003cbr>\n•\tThey retain heat well, making them perfect for both frying and simmering.\u003cbr>\n•\tThey may be the least expensive pans available, costing around $20 for a 10-inch version and around $30 for the extra large size.\u003cbr>\n•\tThey last forever (my friend Pam uses her grandmother's pan, which was purchased at least 90 years ago).\u003cbr>\n•\tYour food picks up a little bit of iron when using a cast iron pan, so they're a great way to supplement your diet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you randomly look through my posts on Bay Area Bites, you'll see my cast iron pans used over and over. This is because I use them for almost everything. Certain dishes that I only make in my handy dandy cast iron pans are:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/first-pancake.jpg\" alt=\"first pancake\" title=\"first pancake\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-7544\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>•\t\u003cstrong>Seared meat \u003c/strong>-- This includes meat for stews, steaks, and some fish. Cast iron's ability to evenly radiate and distribute heat makes it the perfect tool for searing.\u003cbr>\n•\t\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/28/creamy-chicken-and-rice-casserole/\">Casseroles\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> -- Cast iron pans are great for mixing up casserole ingredients on the stove and then transferring the entire dish to the oven to bake further.\u003cbr>\n•\t\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/10/21/resist-the-box-pancakes/\">Pancakes \u003c/a>\u003c/strong>-- To make decent pancakes, you really need to start with a hot and evenly heated pan. Plus cast iron also gives you a perfectly flat surface for making those flapjacks.\u003cbr>\n•\t\u003cstrong>Eggs \u003c/strong>-- I bought a smaller cast iron pan specifically for breakfast. As anyone who has made eggs using an aluminum pan knows, they have a tendency to stick to the surface of the pan, which is messy and frustrating to clean. But the natural non-stick surface of a seasoned cast iron pan lets you avoid all that. From scrambled to sunny side up, cast iron cooks my eggs perfectly every time and requires very little clean up.\u003cbr>\n•\t\u003cstrong>Fried chicken or \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/24/homemade-beer-battered-fish-and-chips/\">beer-battered fish \u003c/a>\u003c/strong>-- Once again, even heat distribution combined with the ability to maintain a consistent temperature makes cast iron perfect for these dishes.\u003cbr>\n•\t\u003cstrong>Cornbread and biscuits\u003c/strong> -- My 10-inch cast iron pan has always cooked these items so they are slightly crisp on the outside and fluffy on the inside -- just the way I like them.\u003cbr>\n•\t\u003cstrong>Vegetables \u003c/strong>-- I cook most of my vegetables in a cast iron pan. From sautéing zucchini and broccoli on the stove top to roasting cauliflower, Brussells sprouts and root vegetables in the oven, my pans cook vegetables beautifully.\u003cbr>\n•\t\u003cstrong>Tart Tatin\u003c/strong> -- A cast iron pan is the perfect vehicle for caramelizing those apples in butter and sugar, adding the dish to the oven when it's ready to be baked, and then flipping onto a dish (using its ergonomic handle) when you're ready to serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/old-cast-iron-pans-at-sutters-fort.jpg\" alt=\"old cast iron pans at sutter's fort\" title=\"old cast iron pans at sutter's fort\" width=\"400\" height=\"240\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-11282\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why do you need to season your cast iron pan?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One issue that seems to keep some people away from using cast iron pans is the fact that you have to season or cure them if they're new. Cast iron is naturally porous so if it isn't treated, moisture will settle into the metal and the pan will rust. Seasoning the pan seals the iron, creating a blackish patina that is perfect for heating and is also non-stick. The older the pan, the more seasoned it becomes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But don't let the idea of curing a pan intimidate you. As you'll see, the only thing stopping you from using a new pan is a little vegetable oil and about 1 hour of baking time. Here are some very easy directions for seasoning your pan. Also, Lodge (the biggest, and, I think \"only\" U.S. maker of cast iron pans) also sells pre-seasoned pans if you want to avoid the seasoning process completely. Yet if you go this route, I still suggest making a dish that uses a lot of oil in it for the pan's maiden voyage (as detailed below) to make sure the oil really saturates into the pores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/3-pans.jpg\" alt=\"3 pans\" title=\"3 pans\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-11289\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How to season (or cure) a cast iron pan\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees.\u003cbr>\n2. Clean your pan with mild soap and water and then dry thoroughly. Some cast iron pans come with a light coating that will need to be washed off.\u003cbr>\n3. Place a thin even coating of vegetable oil in the pan. Use something like corn or safflower oil. Traditionally, people used lard. But how many of us have lard sitting around the house these days?\u003cbr>\n4. Set the pan in your preheated oven and heat for one hour. Lodge recommends placing the pan upside down on a cookie sheet or foil, although I've never done this myself.\u003cbr>\n5. Turn off the oven and then either let the pan cool down inside or, with an oven mitt, remove the pan and set on the stovetop to cool.\u003cbr>\n6. Once the pan is cool, wipe it down with a paper towel. Set aside for later use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/fish-fry.jpg\" alt=\"fish fry\" title=\"fish fry\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6962\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once a pan is initially seasoned, I like to cook something that requires a lot of oil to make sure it really gets thoroughly lubricated and heated. Fish and chips or fried chicken is a great choice as you need to heat your pan thoroughly with oil for an extended period of time. I also like to cook up a batch of bacon a day or two after curing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/cleaning-your-pan.jpg\" alt=\"cleaning your pan\" title=\"cleaning your pan\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-11290\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cleaning and caring for your cast iron pan\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lodge recommends avoiding soap when cleaning your pan and to use a \"stiff nylon brush and hot water\" instead. I have NEVER taken this advice. For ten years I have cleaned my cast iron pans with mild dishwashing detergent and then scrubbed lightly with a kitchen sponge. In all this time, I've never scoured off the seasoning; then again, I don't use a Brill-o pad, which should be avoided. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My tried and true method for cleaning my pans is to simply add some water to them after cooking my meals and then let them sit while we eat. By the time I'm ready to clean up, everything has loosened up and the pans are easy to clean. Just remember not to let the pans sit with water in them for more than a half hour or they may start to rust. If something really gets stuck in there, I set the pan on the stove, add a bit of water, and heat until the water starts to boil. I then gently scrape the bottom of the pan with a wooden spatula until the remnants release. That's it. And, if for some reason you do need to thoroughly scour your pan, you can always just re-season it again. Never, ever, put it in the dishwasher.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once your pan is clean, towel it dry thoroughly. If you want to make sure it's completely dry, you can also heat it on the stove for a bit to help evaporate any leftover moisture. Do not let it air dry as it may rust. Store your pans in a cool dry place. I like to keep mine in the oven or even on top of the stove, but any place that avoids moisture is fine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where to buy a cast iron pan\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So where can you get a cast iron pan? Almost anywhere. From \u003ca href=\"http://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/lodge-12-inch-cast-iron-skillet/?pkey=x%7C4%7C1%7C%7C4%7Ccast%20iron%20pan%7C%7C0&cm_src=SCH\">Williams-Sonoma\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.surlatable.com/product/lodge+logic+skillets.do?keyword=cast+iron&sortby=ourPicks\">Sur la Table\u003c/a> to \u003ca href=\"http://www.target.com/Lodge-12-Pre-Seasoned-Skillet/dp/B000FBUGDU/ref=sr_1_7/183-1092538-6567166?ie=UTF8&search-alias=tgt-index&frombrowse=0&index=target&qid=1268247977&sr=1-7&rh=k%3Acast%20iron%20pan&page=1\">Target\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Lodge-Logic-12-Inch-Pre-Seasoned-Skillet/dp/B00006JSUB/ref=pd_sbs_k_1\">Amazon\u003c/a>, and your local hardware store, these pans are available pretty much any place selling kitchen equipment. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A few tips to using a cast iron pan\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remember these pans are quite heavy, so if you're unable to handle the heft, this may not be the pan for you. And, because the entire pan is made of cast iron, everything (including the handle) becomes quite hot when the pan is heated, so be careful not to burn yourself.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "And now, almost 10 years and thousands of meals later, I'm just as happy with my decision to switch to cast iron as I was the day I purchased my pans from Ace Hardware. As far as I'm concerned, the fanciest and most expensive pans can't hold a candle to modest cast iron (well, except for an amazing large copper pan, which I doubt I'll ever be able to afford).",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/cast-iron-pans1.jpg\" alt=\"cast iron pans\" title=\"cast iron pans\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-11288\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was raised on food that was cooked in cast iron pans. My mother's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/04/19/giving-up-sunday-gravy-a-lost-food-tradition/\">Sunday Gravy\u003c/a> was always started in the 10-inch version and my morning eggs were cooked in the 6 1/2-inch. From chicken to steaks, zucchini to eggplant, and biscuits to corn bread, my mom's cast iron pans were in continual use. Yet when I grew up, moved out, and started my own kitchen, I somehow forgot about my cast-iron roots. After purchasing and then cooking with some thinly constructed aluminum pans, I felt the need to register for fancy pans when I got married. My sister generously gave us an enormous set of Calphalon, but after a year or two of fretting about cleaning them properly and making sure they never went in the dishwasher or got scratched, I finally remembered there was a much simpler alternative.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And now, almost 10 years and thousands of meals later, I'm just as happy with my decision to switch to cast iron as I was the day I purchased my pans from Ace Hardware. As far as I'm concerned, swanky brands that are expensive can't hold a candle to modest cast iron (well, except for an amazing large copper pan, which I doubt I'll ever be able to afford).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So Why is Cast Iron so Great?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In case you're unfamiliar with cast iron pans, they have a lot going for them. Here's a list of some reasons I love them so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>•\tThey radiate heat beautifully, so your food doesn't cook unevenly.\u003cbr>\n•\tYou can go from stovetop to the oven, so there' s never a need to transfer food to a baking dish after sautéing.\u003cbr>\n•\tOnce your pans are seasoned, they have a natural non-stick surface so you don't have to breath in that awful chemical-smelling aroma that is emitted when you overheat a Teflon pan.\u003cbr>\n•\tThey retain heat well, making them perfect for both frying and simmering.\u003cbr>\n•\tThey may be the least expensive pans available, costing around $20 for a 10-inch version and around $30 for the extra large size.\u003cbr>\n•\tThey last forever (my friend Pam uses her grandmother's pan, which was purchased at least 90 years ago).\u003cbr>\n•\tYour food picks up a little bit of iron when using a cast iron pan, so they're a great way to supplement your diet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you randomly look through my posts on Bay Area Bites, you'll see my cast iron pans used over and over. This is because I use them for almost everything. Certain dishes that I only make in my handy dandy cast iron pans are:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/first-pancake.jpg\" alt=\"first pancake\" title=\"first pancake\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-7544\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>•\t\u003cstrong>Seared meat \u003c/strong>-- This includes meat for stews, steaks, and some fish. Cast iron's ability to evenly radiate and distribute heat makes it the perfect tool for searing.\u003cbr>\n•\t\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/28/creamy-chicken-and-rice-casserole/\">Casseroles\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> -- Cast iron pans are great for mixing up casserole ingredients on the stove and then transferring the entire dish to the oven to bake further.\u003cbr>\n•\t\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/10/21/resist-the-box-pancakes/\">Pancakes \u003c/a>\u003c/strong>-- To make decent pancakes, you really need to start with a hot and evenly heated pan. Plus cast iron also gives you a perfectly flat surface for making those flapjacks.\u003cbr>\n•\t\u003cstrong>Eggs \u003c/strong>-- I bought a smaller cast iron pan specifically for breakfast. As anyone who has made eggs using an aluminum pan knows, they have a tendency to stick to the surface of the pan, which is messy and frustrating to clean. But the natural non-stick surface of a seasoned cast iron pan lets you avoid all that. From scrambled to sunny side up, cast iron cooks my eggs perfectly every time and requires very little clean up.\u003cbr>\n•\t\u003cstrong>Fried chicken or \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/24/homemade-beer-battered-fish-and-chips/\">beer-battered fish \u003c/a>\u003c/strong>-- Once again, even heat distribution combined with the ability to maintain a consistent temperature makes cast iron perfect for these dishes.\u003cbr>\n•\t\u003cstrong>Cornbread and biscuits\u003c/strong> -- My 10-inch cast iron pan has always cooked these items so they are slightly crisp on the outside and fluffy on the inside -- just the way I like them.\u003cbr>\n•\t\u003cstrong>Vegetables \u003c/strong>-- I cook most of my vegetables in a cast iron pan. From sautéing zucchini and broccoli on the stove top to roasting cauliflower, Brussells sprouts and root vegetables in the oven, my pans cook vegetables beautifully.\u003cbr>\n•\t\u003cstrong>Tart Tatin\u003c/strong> -- A cast iron pan is the perfect vehicle for caramelizing those apples in butter and sugar, adding the dish to the oven when it's ready to be baked, and then flipping onto a dish (using its ergonomic handle) when you're ready to serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/old-cast-iron-pans-at-sutters-fort.jpg\" alt=\"old cast iron pans at sutter's fort\" title=\"old cast iron pans at sutter's fort\" width=\"400\" height=\"240\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-11282\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why do you need to season your cast iron pan?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One issue that seems to keep some people away from using cast iron pans is the fact that you have to season or cure them if they're new. Cast iron is naturally porous so if it isn't treated, moisture will settle into the metal and the pan will rust. Seasoning the pan seals the iron, creating a blackish patina that is perfect for heating and is also non-stick. The older the pan, the more seasoned it becomes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But don't let the idea of curing a pan intimidate you. As you'll see, the only thing stopping you from using a new pan is a little vegetable oil and about 1 hour of baking time. Here are some very easy directions for seasoning your pan. Also, Lodge (the biggest, and, I think \"only\" U.S. maker of cast iron pans) also sells pre-seasoned pans if you want to avoid the seasoning process completely. Yet if you go this route, I still suggest making a dish that uses a lot of oil in it for the pan's maiden voyage (as detailed below) to make sure the oil really saturates into the pores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/3-pans.jpg\" alt=\"3 pans\" title=\"3 pans\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-11289\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How to season (or cure) a cast iron pan\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees.\u003cbr>\n2. Clean your pan with mild soap and water and then dry thoroughly. Some cast iron pans come with a light coating that will need to be washed off.\u003cbr>\n3. Place a thin even coating of vegetable oil in the pan. Use something like corn or safflower oil. Traditionally, people used lard. But how many of us have lard sitting around the house these days?\u003cbr>\n4. Set the pan in your preheated oven and heat for one hour. Lodge recommends placing the pan upside down on a cookie sheet or foil, although I've never done this myself.\u003cbr>\n5. Turn off the oven and then either let the pan cool down inside or, with an oven mitt, remove the pan and set on the stovetop to cool.\u003cbr>\n6. Once the pan is cool, wipe it down with a paper towel. Set aside for later use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/fish-fry.jpg\" alt=\"fish fry\" title=\"fish fry\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6962\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once a pan is initially seasoned, I like to cook something that requires a lot of oil to make sure it really gets thoroughly lubricated and heated. Fish and chips or fried chicken is a great choice as you need to heat your pan thoroughly with oil for an extended period of time. I also like to cook up a batch of bacon a day or two after curing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/cleaning-your-pan.jpg\" alt=\"cleaning your pan\" title=\"cleaning your pan\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-11290\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cleaning and caring for your cast iron pan\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lodge recommends avoiding soap when cleaning your pan and to use a \"stiff nylon brush and hot water\" instead. I have NEVER taken this advice. For ten years I have cleaned my cast iron pans with mild dishwashing detergent and then scrubbed lightly with a kitchen sponge. In all this time, I've never scoured off the seasoning; then again, I don't use a Brill-o pad, which should be avoided. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My tried and true method for cleaning my pans is to simply add some water to them after cooking my meals and then let them sit while we eat. By the time I'm ready to clean up, everything has loosened up and the pans are easy to clean. Just remember not to let the pans sit with water in them for more than a half hour or they may start to rust. If something really gets stuck in there, I set the pan on the stove, add a bit of water, and heat until the water starts to boil. I then gently scrape the bottom of the pan with a wooden spatula until the remnants release. That's it. And, if for some reason you do need to thoroughly scour your pan, you can always just re-season it again. Never, ever, put it in the dishwasher.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once your pan is clean, towel it dry thoroughly. If you want to make sure it's completely dry, you can also heat it on the stove for a bit to help evaporate any leftover moisture. Do not let it air dry as it may rust. Store your pans in a cool dry place. I like to keep mine in the oven or even on top of the stove, but any place that avoids moisture is fine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where to buy a cast iron pan\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So where can you get a cast iron pan? Almost anywhere. From \u003ca href=\"http://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/lodge-12-inch-cast-iron-skillet/?pkey=x%7C4%7C1%7C%7C4%7Ccast%20iron%20pan%7C%7C0&cm_src=SCH\">Williams-Sonoma\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.surlatable.com/product/lodge+logic+skillets.do?keyword=cast+iron&sortby=ourPicks\">Sur la Table\u003c/a> to \u003ca href=\"http://www.target.com/Lodge-12-Pre-Seasoned-Skillet/dp/B000FBUGDU/ref=sr_1_7/183-1092538-6567166?ie=UTF8&search-alias=tgt-index&frombrowse=0&index=target&qid=1268247977&sr=1-7&rh=k%3Acast%20iron%20pan&page=1\">Target\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Lodge-Logic-12-Inch-Pre-Seasoned-Skillet/dp/B00006JSUB/ref=pd_sbs_k_1\">Amazon\u003c/a>, and your local hardware store, these pans are available pretty much any place selling kitchen equipment. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A few tips to using a cast iron pan\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remember these pans are quite heavy, so if you're unable to handle the heft, this may not be the pan for you. And, because the entire pan is made of cast iron, everything (including the handle) becomes quite hot when the pan is heated, so be careful not to burn yourself.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/roasted-chicken1.jpg\" alt=\"roasted chicken\" title=\"roasted chicken\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10257\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Long long ago (which in this digital age means a few decades prior to now) people used to eat chicken for fancy Sunday suppers. After a day at church, the family would gather around the dinner table. Bobby, with his favorite baseball cap set next to his dish, and Sue, with hair in pigtails, claimed the drumsticks. Meanwhile Mother in her apron and Father in a button-down shirt had their fill of the breasts or thighs. After dinner, Ma would collect the remainder of the chicken -- carcass, drippings and all -- so she could make a nice soup or meat pie later in the week. Doesn’t that sound homey, and well... quaint?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, in the modern-day equivalent of this scenario, this is my house on a Sunday (although insert a morning reading the New York Times instead of church, bickering kids who roll their eyes at their parents for the mild-tempered Bobby and Sue, and jeans with t-shirts and sweaters for the clothes. Oh, and toss in a crazy dog and a messy house). I've also been known to make a whole chicken on a Tuesday or Thursday (or, as you've probably picked up by now, any day of the week). So although my version of this American tale is a little different, the premise remains the same: I bake a whole chicken for one dinner, and then wrap up everything (and I mean everything) that is left for another meal (or two) later in the week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although my method for cooking chicken was once de rigueur in America, it now seems old fashioned. Chicken, however, is more popular than ever. According to the USDA, \"Chicken consumption more than doubled between 1970 and 2004, from 27.4 pounds per person to 59.2 pounds.\" Yet during this time of increased chicken eating, the tradition of baking a whole bird for a family dinner has almost disappeared. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most poultry eaters these days simply pick up a package of boneless, skinless chicken breasts at the grocery store (and that’s only if they're actually cooking dinner instead of picking up take-out). They think that not having to deal with those bones makes cooking easier (a notion I will argue in a second). Plus most people are also more interested in the breasts because they have less fat than those delicious thighs and legs. But if you're cooking from scratch (that is, not purchasing something pre-cooked with a ton of fat, salt and starches added to it) one leg or thigh will not clog your arteries or make you fat, especially if you eat it with a large serving of vegetables. According to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thedailyplate.com/\">Daily Plate\u003c/a> (a food calorie site), a thigh has 237 calories, while a grilled skinless breast has 120 calories; sure the calorie count is almost double, but 237 calories for a main part of your dinner is quite good when you consider that a chicken burrito has 334 calories in it. Also, if you eat that chicken breast lightly breaded and fried (as many people will), you jump up to 247 calories with 133 fat calories (the baked thigh has only 12 fat calories). That thigh is no longer looking so fattening, is it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now I realize that many people don't like to make a whole chicken because they think it’s difficult and time intensive. But, just like \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/04/10/resist-the-box-redux-homemade-chocolate-pudding/\">pudding\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/10/21/resist-the-box-pancakes/\">pancakes\u003c/a>, nothing could be further from the truth. Unlike boneless and skinless breasts, which often need to be dolled up in a pan with other ingredients because they become dry and a bit tasteless when baked on their own, a whole chicken is a simple endeavor that has juicy results. In the name of full disclosure, I need to admit that baking a chicken takes about an hour and a half, but other than the first 5-7 minutes of prep work, this is all baking time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/storing-leftovers11.jpg\" alt=\"storing leftovers\" title=\"storing leftovers\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10258\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making a whole chicken is also a great way to stretch your food dollar as it will bear two to three meals for your family. After our roasted chicken dinner, I often make a soup out of the carcass, chicken pot pie with gravy (which I'll cover next week), or \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/28/creamy-chicken-and-rice-casserole/\">creamy chicken and rice casserole\u003c/a>. If I get an especially large chicken or if I make baked potatoes with the first meal (which fills everyone up) I then usually have enough chicken left over for a third meal where only a minimal amount of meat is required, such as tacos, quesadillas, or stir fry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are some general directions for baking a chicken. I am not providing a recipe because this meal is so easy that strict instructions aren't necessary. Give it a try and you'll see how good this traditional family meal can taste, while also saving you a few bucks later in the week when you’re eating some delicious pot pies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How to Bake a Chicken\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/chicken-ready-to-go-in-the-oven1.jpg\" alt=\"chicken ready to go in the oven\" title=\"chicken ready to go in the oven\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10265\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparing Your Chicken\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the offal from the chicken (I like to cook these up for my dog, but you can do whatever you like with them, which includes sticking them in the compost bin) and rinse out the bird, including the inner cavity. Set your chicken in a baking pan and pat dry with paper towels. You want to keep the skin fairly dry so it's crispier later. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Decide what type of fat you want to use to flavor your chicken. Now is the time to get creative. I've used olive oil mixed with lemon zest, fresh rosemary and garlic; butter; and even a bit of bacon fat (only about a tablespoon for the entire bird, which ends up tasting pretty amazing, by the way). Whatever you use, be sure to also season with salt and pepper (less salt if using bacon grease), as well as any herbs you like (I usually go with thyme). Spread everything all over the chicken and also under the breast skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place a chopped half onion inside the cavity. This will help flavor the chicken as well as the drippings. You could also add a half lemon, herbs, or an apple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/uncovering-your-chicken1.jpg\" alt=\"uncovering your chicken\" title=\"uncovering your chicken\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10254\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Baking the Chicken\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I bake my chicken in a 375 degree convection oven. If you don't have convection, just bake at 400 degrees. Be sure to get the oven nice and hot before you place the chicken in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/covered-chicken1.jpg\" alt=\"covered chicken\" title=\"covered chicken\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10255\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The key to baking a great chicken is to cover it for about 60 minutes and then finish it off, uncovered so the skin gets crispy, for another 20-30 minutes or until clear juices run from the meat (\u003ca href=\"http://www.fsis.usda.gov/Help/FAQs_Hotline_Preparation/index.asp#4\">the USDA recommends cooking until the chicken is 165 degrees\u003c/a>). The larger your chicken, the more time you'll need to bake it. Don't be afraid to use a meat thermometer. Better to be safe than sorry. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can use a pan with a top (such as a Le Creuset Dutch oven) or you can simply tightly cover a standard baking dish or large cast-iron pan with aluminum foil. I've tried both methods with equally succulent results. Either way, covering the bird will keep the juices from evaporating in the hot oven. You'll also get some nice pan drippings that you can use later in the week for a soup or chicken pot pie gravy base.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/pan-juices1.jpg\" alt=\"pan juices\" title=\"pan juices\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10256\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If your chicken drippings start to dry out once you uncover your pan, simply add between ¼ and a ½ cup of water or chicken stock to the pan. This will keep your drippings from burning. Don't worry about the extra moisture in the oven. I've done this numerous times and the skin on my chicken was still crispy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serving the Chicken\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCarving a chicken can seem a bit daunting, but once you see how easy it is (below) you’ll hopefully feel ready to conquer the job. I found this great video on You Tube (what would we do without You Tube?), which stars Norman Weinstein of the Institute of Culinary Education giving instructions on how to carve a chicken. Well done, Norman!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/emS7l2sN1jM&hl=en_US&fs=1&\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/emS7l2sN1jM&hl=en_US&fs=1&\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Saving the Leftovers\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Be sure to save EVERYTHING that is left over from your scrumptious chicken dinner. This means stick the carcass, leftover meat, wings, drippings and even the fat into a big container to be used later. Next week I'll show you what to do with all this; in the meantime, happy chicken eating.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Now I realize that many people don't like to make a whole chicken because they think it's difficult and time intensive. But, just like pudding and pancakes, nothing could be further from the truth. Unlike boneless and skinless breasts, which often need to be dolled up in a pan with other ingredients because they become dry and a bit tasteless when baked on their own, a whole chicken is a simple endeavor that has juicy results. In the name of full disclosure, I need to admit that baking a chicken takes between an hour and an hour and a half, but other than the first 5-7 minutes of prep work, this is all baking time.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/roasted-chicken1.jpg\" alt=\"roasted chicken\" title=\"roasted chicken\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10257\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Long long ago (which in this digital age means a few decades prior to now) people used to eat chicken for fancy Sunday suppers. After a day at church, the family would gather around the dinner table. Bobby, with his favorite baseball cap set next to his dish, and Sue, with hair in pigtails, claimed the drumsticks. Meanwhile Mother in her apron and Father in a button-down shirt had their fill of the breasts or thighs. After dinner, Ma would collect the remainder of the chicken -- carcass, drippings and all -- so she could make a nice soup or meat pie later in the week. Doesn’t that sound homey, and well... quaint?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, in the modern-day equivalent of this scenario, this is my house on a Sunday (although insert a morning reading the New York Times instead of church, bickering kids who roll their eyes at their parents for the mild-tempered Bobby and Sue, and jeans with t-shirts and sweaters for the clothes. Oh, and toss in a crazy dog and a messy house). I've also been known to make a whole chicken on a Tuesday or Thursday (or, as you've probably picked up by now, any day of the week). So although my version of this American tale is a little different, the premise remains the same: I bake a whole chicken for one dinner, and then wrap up everything (and I mean everything) that is left for another meal (or two) later in the week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although my method for cooking chicken was once de rigueur in America, it now seems old fashioned. Chicken, however, is more popular than ever. According to the USDA, \"Chicken consumption more than doubled between 1970 and 2004, from 27.4 pounds per person to 59.2 pounds.\" Yet during this time of increased chicken eating, the tradition of baking a whole bird for a family dinner has almost disappeared. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most poultry eaters these days simply pick up a package of boneless, skinless chicken breasts at the grocery store (and that’s only if they're actually cooking dinner instead of picking up take-out). They think that not having to deal with those bones makes cooking easier (a notion I will argue in a second). Plus most people are also more interested in the breasts because they have less fat than those delicious thighs and legs. But if you're cooking from scratch (that is, not purchasing something pre-cooked with a ton of fat, salt and starches added to it) one leg or thigh will not clog your arteries or make you fat, especially if you eat it with a large serving of vegetables. According to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thedailyplate.com/\">Daily Plate\u003c/a> (a food calorie site), a thigh has 237 calories, while a grilled skinless breast has 120 calories; sure the calorie count is almost double, but 237 calories for a main part of your dinner is quite good when you consider that a chicken burrito has 334 calories in it. Also, if you eat that chicken breast lightly breaded and fried (as many people will), you jump up to 247 calories with 133 fat calories (the baked thigh has only 12 fat calories). That thigh is no longer looking so fattening, is it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now I realize that many people don't like to make a whole chicken because they think it’s difficult and time intensive. But, just like \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/04/10/resist-the-box-redux-homemade-chocolate-pudding/\">pudding\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/10/21/resist-the-box-pancakes/\">pancakes\u003c/a>, nothing could be further from the truth. Unlike boneless and skinless breasts, which often need to be dolled up in a pan with other ingredients because they become dry and a bit tasteless when baked on their own, a whole chicken is a simple endeavor that has juicy results. In the name of full disclosure, I need to admit that baking a chicken takes about an hour and a half, but other than the first 5-7 minutes of prep work, this is all baking time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/storing-leftovers11.jpg\" alt=\"storing leftovers\" title=\"storing leftovers\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10258\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making a whole chicken is also a great way to stretch your food dollar as it will bear two to three meals for your family. After our roasted chicken dinner, I often make a soup out of the carcass, chicken pot pie with gravy (which I'll cover next week), or \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/28/creamy-chicken-and-rice-casserole/\">creamy chicken and rice casserole\u003c/a>. If I get an especially large chicken or if I make baked potatoes with the first meal (which fills everyone up) I then usually have enough chicken left over for a third meal where only a minimal amount of meat is required, such as tacos, quesadillas, or stir fry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are some general directions for baking a chicken. I am not providing a recipe because this meal is so easy that strict instructions aren't necessary. Give it a try and you'll see how good this traditional family meal can taste, while also saving you a few bucks later in the week when you’re eating some delicious pot pies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How to Bake a Chicken\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/chicken-ready-to-go-in-the-oven1.jpg\" alt=\"chicken ready to go in the oven\" title=\"chicken ready to go in the oven\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10265\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparing Your Chicken\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the offal from the chicken (I like to cook these up for my dog, but you can do whatever you like with them, which includes sticking them in the compost bin) and rinse out the bird, including the inner cavity. Set your chicken in a baking pan and pat dry with paper towels. You want to keep the skin fairly dry so it's crispier later. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Decide what type of fat you want to use to flavor your chicken. Now is the time to get creative. I've used olive oil mixed with lemon zest, fresh rosemary and garlic; butter; and even a bit of bacon fat (only about a tablespoon for the entire bird, which ends up tasting pretty amazing, by the way). Whatever you use, be sure to also season with salt and pepper (less salt if using bacon grease), as well as any herbs you like (I usually go with thyme). Spread everything all over the chicken and also under the breast skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place a chopped half onion inside the cavity. This will help flavor the chicken as well as the drippings. You could also add a half lemon, herbs, or an apple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/uncovering-your-chicken1.jpg\" alt=\"uncovering your chicken\" title=\"uncovering your chicken\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10254\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Baking the Chicken\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I bake my chicken in a 375 degree convection oven. If you don't have convection, just bake at 400 degrees. Be sure to get the oven nice and hot before you place the chicken in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/covered-chicken1.jpg\" alt=\"covered chicken\" title=\"covered chicken\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10255\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The key to baking a great chicken is to cover it for about 60 minutes and then finish it off, uncovered so the skin gets crispy, for another 20-30 minutes or until clear juices run from the meat (\u003ca href=\"http://www.fsis.usda.gov/Help/FAQs_Hotline_Preparation/index.asp#4\">the USDA recommends cooking until the chicken is 165 degrees\u003c/a>). The larger your chicken, the more time you'll need to bake it. Don't be afraid to use a meat thermometer. Better to be safe than sorry. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can use a pan with a top (such as a Le Creuset Dutch oven) or you can simply tightly cover a standard baking dish or large cast-iron pan with aluminum foil. I've tried both methods with equally succulent results. Either way, covering the bird will keep the juices from evaporating in the hot oven. You'll also get some nice pan drippings that you can use later in the week for a soup or chicken pot pie gravy base.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/pan-juices1.jpg\" alt=\"pan juices\" title=\"pan juices\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10256\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If your chicken drippings start to dry out once you uncover your pan, simply add between ¼ and a ½ cup of water or chicken stock to the pan. This will keep your drippings from burning. Don't worry about the extra moisture in the oven. I've done this numerous times and the skin on my chicken was still crispy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serving the Chicken\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCarving a chicken can seem a bit daunting, but once you see how easy it is (below) you’ll hopefully feel ready to conquer the job. I found this great video on You Tube (what would we do without You Tube?), which stars Norman Weinstein of the Institute of Culinary Education giving instructions on how to carve a chicken. Well done, Norman!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/emS7l2sN1jM&hl=en_US&fs=1&\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/emS7l2sN1jM&hl=en_US&fs=1&\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Saving the Leftovers\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Be sure to save EVERYTHING that is left over from your scrumptious chicken dinner. This means stick the carcass, leftover meat, wings, drippings and even the fat into a big container to be used later. Next week I'll show you what to do with all this; in the meantime, happy chicken eating.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Friendship and Homemade Meyer Lemon Marmalade",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/sliced-lemons1.jpg\" alt=\"sliced lemons\" title=\"sliced lemons\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9886\">\u003cbr>\nIt's January, which in the Bay Area (and all of California, for that matter) means it's citrus season. While much of the rest of the country is frozen over -- today in Boston the forecast was 34 degrees and snowing -- we're lucky enough to live someplace where winter means fresh oranges, limes, grapefruits and lemons. And queen among the local citrus trees -- at least in my book -- is the Meyer lemon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meyer lemons are an amazing fruit. Originally created in China as a lemon and mandarin orange hybrid, it has an appealing sweetness lacking in other lemons. And, with a fragrant and thin rind, barely any pith, and ample juice, it's really the ideal cooking lemon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I planted my Meyer lemon tree around five years ago, and although it's given me a steady stream of fruit since we first set it into the ground outside our front porch, this is the first year that our tree was crowded with lemons. So what do you do with an overabundance of sweet and tart Meyers? In my case, I had great plans to make marmalade. I pondered how to make it, discussed recipes with neighbors, and deliberated over whether or not I should incorporate other citruses into the jam. But after a couple of weeks with sick kids and a sicker husband, plus a pile of work to wade through, those lemons still sat on the tree: bright yellow orbs taunting me each time I walked up my front stairs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thankfully I have talented friends with a can-do attitude (well, one friend in particular). When \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/kim-laidlaw/\">Kim and Keith Laidlaw\u003c/a> came to my house last weekend, I mentioned my marmalade aspirations as we walked past the tree, hoping that one day soon I'd be able to make it. And then something miraculous happened. After walking the dogs in the rain a half hour later, I dried off their mud spattered fur and entered the kitchen to warm up with some hot tea. But instead of finding Kim and Keith relaxing in my family room, I was met instead with the glorious image of Kim sitting at my counter, patiently slicing lemons from the enormous pile she had picked while I was out. A true friend indeed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Kim-hard-at-work.jpg\" alt=\"Kim hard at work\" title=\"Kim hard at work\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9862\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the lemons were all sliced, we set them in a pot and covered them with water to steep overnight. This allows some of the pectin in the pith beneath the rind to release into the water. It also makes the lemon slices more malleable. In the morning, we added some sugar along with a satchel of the lemon seeds, pith and lemon ends (which we had saved and tied in a cheesecloth) to the pot. After simmering for an hour, the mixture was ready to go. It was sweet and tart with a nice mild bitter marmalade edge. If you don't like any bitterness in your preserves, you can omit the seeds from the recipe, but you may end up with a runnier marmalade as the seeds add pectin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/marmalade-in-a-jar.jpg\" alt=\"marmalade in a jar\" title=\"marmalade in a jar\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9863\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now normally I would can my jam, but the ennui that has enveloped me all January was still too strong, so Kim and I instead plopped some of the marmalade into washed jars to be used immediately and then I also froze some for later use. I hear that marmalade improves with age, so if you have the time and inclination, it's worth canning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next morning after the kids left for school, I sat and ate toast topped with Meyer lemon marmalade while contemplating how lucky I was to have such a lovely jam-making friend. It takes someone special to notice when your life gets in the way of your hopes, even if that hope is simply to make marmalade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/lemon-to-be-cut.jpg\" alt=\"lemon to be cut\" title=\"lemon to be cut\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9865\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Homemade Meyer Lemon Marmalade\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Kim, the key to great marmalade is slicing the lemons sliver thin. So be sure to use a sharp chef's knife. Here's what you do:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Wash the lemons and set in a bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/slicing-off-the-ends1.jpg\" alt=\"slicing off the ends\" title=\"slicing off the ends\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9866\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Cut the ends off the lemons and then slice in half length-wise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/removing-the-inner-pith.jpg\" alt=\"removing the inner pith\" title=\"removing the inner pith\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9867\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Slice out the pith in the lemon's inner core and set into a bowl to keep for later use. You should also set the lemon ends in this bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Remove the lemon's seeds and place into that bowl of pith and ends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/slicing-the-lemon.jpg\" alt=\"slicing the lemon\" title=\"slicing the lemon\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9868\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Cut lemons into paper thin slices. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Place lemon slices in a large pot, being sure to scrape the juice from the cutting board in as well so you retain the juices. Soak at least over night and up to two days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's the recipe we used. The sugar amount is flexible and should be determined by how sweet you like your marmalade. Kim and I both like ours a bit tart, so we used the lesser amount. When your batch is complete, you can either can the jam in hot jars, freeze it in plastic bags or containers, or refrigerate and then eat within a week or two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Makes: \u003c/strong>6 small or 3 large jars of jam\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 cups thinly sliced lemons with the seeds, ends and inner pith removed and set aside\u003cbr>\n5 cups water\u003cbr>\n4-5 cups granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nPreparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Place lemon slices in a large pot and cover with water. Let steep overnight.\u003cbr>\n2. Once lemons have steeped, add the sugar to the pot and mix.\u003cbr>\n3. Place the seeds, pith and lemon ends in cheesecloth. Tie up and set into the mixture.\u003cbr>\n4. Bring the lemons to a boil and then reduce heat. Simmer for one hour.\u003cbr>\n5. Can or freeze.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "I planted my Meyer lemon tree around five years ago, and although it's given me a steady stream of fruit since we first set it into the ground outside our front porch, this is the first year that our tree was crowded with lemons. So what do you do with an overabundance of sweet and tart Meyers? In my case, I had great plans to make marmalade. ",
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"title": "Friendship and Homemade Meyer Lemon Marmalade | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/sliced-lemons1.jpg\" alt=\"sliced lemons\" title=\"sliced lemons\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9886\">\u003cbr>\nIt's January, which in the Bay Area (and all of California, for that matter) means it's citrus season. While much of the rest of the country is frozen over -- today in Boston the forecast was 34 degrees and snowing -- we're lucky enough to live someplace where winter means fresh oranges, limes, grapefruits and lemons. And queen among the local citrus trees -- at least in my book -- is the Meyer lemon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meyer lemons are an amazing fruit. Originally created in China as a lemon and mandarin orange hybrid, it has an appealing sweetness lacking in other lemons. And, with a fragrant and thin rind, barely any pith, and ample juice, it's really the ideal cooking lemon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I planted my Meyer lemon tree around five years ago, and although it's given me a steady stream of fruit since we first set it into the ground outside our front porch, this is the first year that our tree was crowded with lemons. So what do you do with an overabundance of sweet and tart Meyers? In my case, I had great plans to make marmalade. I pondered how to make it, discussed recipes with neighbors, and deliberated over whether or not I should incorporate other citruses into the jam. But after a couple of weeks with sick kids and a sicker husband, plus a pile of work to wade through, those lemons still sat on the tree: bright yellow orbs taunting me each time I walked up my front stairs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thankfully I have talented friends with a can-do attitude (well, one friend in particular). When \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/kim-laidlaw/\">Kim and Keith Laidlaw\u003c/a> came to my house last weekend, I mentioned my marmalade aspirations as we walked past the tree, hoping that one day soon I'd be able to make it. And then something miraculous happened. After walking the dogs in the rain a half hour later, I dried off their mud spattered fur and entered the kitchen to warm up with some hot tea. But instead of finding Kim and Keith relaxing in my family room, I was met instead with the glorious image of Kim sitting at my counter, patiently slicing lemons from the enormous pile she had picked while I was out. A true friend indeed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Kim-hard-at-work.jpg\" alt=\"Kim hard at work\" title=\"Kim hard at work\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9862\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the lemons were all sliced, we set them in a pot and covered them with water to steep overnight. This allows some of the pectin in the pith beneath the rind to release into the water. It also makes the lemon slices more malleable. In the morning, we added some sugar along with a satchel of the lemon seeds, pith and lemon ends (which we had saved and tied in a cheesecloth) to the pot. After simmering for an hour, the mixture was ready to go. It was sweet and tart with a nice mild bitter marmalade edge. If you don't like any bitterness in your preserves, you can omit the seeds from the recipe, but you may end up with a runnier marmalade as the seeds add pectin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/marmalade-in-a-jar.jpg\" alt=\"marmalade in a jar\" title=\"marmalade in a jar\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9863\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now normally I would can my jam, but the ennui that has enveloped me all January was still too strong, so Kim and I instead plopped some of the marmalade into washed jars to be used immediately and then I also froze some for later use. I hear that marmalade improves with age, so if you have the time and inclination, it's worth canning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next morning after the kids left for school, I sat and ate toast topped with Meyer lemon marmalade while contemplating how lucky I was to have such a lovely jam-making friend. It takes someone special to notice when your life gets in the way of your hopes, even if that hope is simply to make marmalade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/lemon-to-be-cut.jpg\" alt=\"lemon to be cut\" title=\"lemon to be cut\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9865\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Homemade Meyer Lemon Marmalade\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Kim, the key to great marmalade is slicing the lemons sliver thin. So be sure to use a sharp chef's knife. Here's what you do:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Wash the lemons and set in a bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/slicing-off-the-ends1.jpg\" alt=\"slicing off the ends\" title=\"slicing off the ends\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9866\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Cut the ends off the lemons and then slice in half length-wise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/removing-the-inner-pith.jpg\" alt=\"removing the inner pith\" title=\"removing the inner pith\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9867\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Slice out the pith in the lemon's inner core and set into a bowl to keep for later use. You should also set the lemon ends in this bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Remove the lemon's seeds and place into that bowl of pith and ends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/slicing-the-lemon.jpg\" alt=\"slicing the lemon\" title=\"slicing the lemon\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9868\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Cut lemons into paper thin slices. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Place lemon slices in a large pot, being sure to scrape the juice from the cutting board in as well so you retain the juices. Soak at least over night and up to two days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's the recipe we used. The sugar amount is flexible and should be determined by how sweet you like your marmalade. Kim and I both like ours a bit tart, so we used the lesser amount. When your batch is complete, you can either can the jam in hot jars, freeze it in plastic bags or containers, or refrigerate and then eat within a week or two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Makes: \u003c/strong>6 small or 3 large jars of jam\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 cups thinly sliced lemons with the seeds, ends and inner pith removed and set aside\u003cbr>\n5 cups water\u003cbr>\n4-5 cups granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nPreparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Place lemon slices in a large pot and cover with water. Let steep overnight.\u003cbr>\n2. Once lemons have steeped, add the sugar to the pot and mix.\u003cbr>\n3. Place the seeds, pith and lemon ends in cheesecloth. Tie up and set into the mixture.\u003cbr>\n4. Bring the lemons to a boil and then reduce heat. Simmer for one hour.\u003cbr>\n5. Can or freeze.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Easy Multi-Grain Bread ",
"title": "Easy Multi-Grain Bread ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/bread500a.jpg\" alt=\"Multi-Grain bread\" title=\"Multi-Grain bread\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9596\">\u003cbr>\nWhy bake bread when you live in Bay Area? Acme, Della Fattoria, Grace, Brickmaiden, Thorough Bread, and Tartine (to name just a few favorites) all ply their trade around here, kneading and rising and selling their wares at storefront bakeries and supermarkets, gourmet stores and farmers' markets. Just as you can usually pick up a decent bottle of wine or a six-pack of microbrew at even a dumpy corner bodega here, so you don't have to go far to score a pretty excellent loaf of bread. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, yes, I'm grateful to all the dedicated professional bakers out there. But sometimes I don't \u003cem>want\u003c/em> the hard-crusted, rip-and-tug Euro-styled country loaf that has become our city's default daily bread. Sometimes, my jam and I want a slice that's a little more dense and mellow, something without gaping jelly-dripping holes, something whose crumb is worth chewing. A bread that holds up to slicing and toasting. A butter-and-honey bread, a bread for peanut butter and banana sandwiches, in short, a bread that you can only have if you make it yourself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, there are perfectly nice, widely available loaf breads out there. Vital Vittles makes a bunch, as does Alvarado Street Bakery. But somehow, pre-sliced bread twist-tied in a plastic bag always feels a little soulless to me, no matter how many wheat berries and sunflower seeds are found within. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is nothing like the smell of homemade bread to perfume your house on a winter's day, and nothing like the taste of it, either. And any invitation—to dinner, to teatime, to dinner that you hope will be followed by breakfast—is sweetened by the nonchalant appearance of bread baked by your very own hands. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But before you laugh hollowly, contemplating your overscheduled life with no room for rising in it, I say, the cool, slow, low-yeast rise is your friend, my busy pal. Most bread recipes call for way too much yeast and heat. Why? Because a dough loaded up with yeast, like a Long Island Iced Tea or a turbo-charged vibrator, gets the job done faster. But the point here is the product, not how fast you can get there. A bread that rises slowly is a bread that tastes of grain, not yeast. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, slowing down the time it takes for your bread to go from dough to loaf frees you up. A long, cool rise is actually much easier to manage, because you can leave the house for hours at a time and get all manner of things done while your dough is slowly inching up in the bowl. Plus, you have a lot more wiggle room. Since the rise goes slowly, it takes a lot longer to get to the threat-of-collapse stage. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given that the average drafty Victorian is fairly cool, even with the hallway heater on, a bowl of dough left on the kitchen counter will probably take anywhere from 3 to 5 hours to double in size. And if things (playdates, the line at the DMV, prime makeout opportunities) get away from you, you can always punch it down and let it go for a second rise before shaping it into loaves. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In general, it's pretty hard to screw this bread up. Once you make it a few times, you won't even need to measure; as long as the proportions are roughly the same, precision isn't necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The one bread-killer is overheating the yeast; yeast dies outright at 140 degrees F, and doesn't much like temps over 120 degrees. So, make sure to dissolve your yeast in tepid water (drip some on your wrist; it should feel just about skin temperature, neither hot nor cold) and make sure that the cereal goop has cooled to barely lukewarm before you stir in the flour and yeast. (Stir the mix thoroughly to make sure there are no pockets of heat remaining before you add the yeast.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Again, because I like a slow rise, I use ordinary active dry yeast, not rapid-rise or instant yeast. And speaking of yeast, it seems a lot of people worry about the viability of their yeast. Unless you bought it 10 years ago or have kept it stashed right over the stove, it's fine. Most jars or foil-sealed packets of yeast are good for a year or more at room temperature, even more if stored in the freezer or fridge. In decades of bread baking, the only bad yeast experience I've ever had has been with Rize Organic Yeast. In the 2 or 3 times I've tried this brand, it has never risen for me, leaving me with leaden lumps of useless dough. With the readily available Red Star and Fleischmann's brands, no problems. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, this bread is the best use I know for that multi-grain, steel-cut hot cereal mix you find in the bulk bins at Rainbow Grocery or Berkeley Bowl. The texture depends on the nubbly chunkiness of the mix, so don't substitute powdery instant or quick-cooking cereal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Easy Multi-Grain Bread\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You could also make a vegan version by substituting vegetable oil or Earth Balance (the kind that comes in sticks, not in a tub) for the butter, and agave, maple, or brown-rice syrup for the honey. Molasses works too, although it will add a more prominent flavor to the finished loaf. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 loaves\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nIngredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 cup multi-grain hot cereal blend (not instant)\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup dry polenta\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp butter\u003cbr>\n2 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp honey\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups boiling water\u003cbr>\n1 packet active dry yeast (2 tsp)\u003cbr>\n1 cup rye flour\u003cbr>\n3 to 3 1/2 cups white flour (or a mix of whole wheat and white flour)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. In a large bowl, combine cereal, polenta, butter, salt, and honey. Pour in boiling water and stir to combine. Set aside to cool, which will probably take about 30 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. When mixture has cooled to lukewarm, it's time to get your yeast ready. Sprinkle yeast over 3 tablespoons of tepid water in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 minutes, then stir to dissolve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Beat rye flour into cereal mixture. Stir in yeast, then add white and/or whole wheat flour, 1 cup at a time. Dough should be soft and sticky, but not so goopy that your hands turn into big gooey dough-paws when you try to knead it. Every batch will be different, depending on the humidity of the air and the moisture in your flour, but start with 3 cups, and save the remaining half-cup to sprinkle in as necessary while you knead. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. If you can, let dough rest for 10 minutes before kneading. This helps the flour begin absorbing the liquid in the dough, so you won't have to add so much extra flour to make it manageable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface. Push the dough away from you with the heels of your hands. Fold it over towards you. Turn it a quarter turn to the right, and repeat. Push, fold, turn, for about 10 minutes, adding small sprinkles of flour as needed to keep it from getting unbearably sticky. When well-kneaded, it should feel like a relaxed inner thigh, or a lady's un-Pilatized stomach. (If naked ladies aren't your frame of reference, a man's torso will do just fine, but imagine more bear than buff.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Drop the dough back in the bowl and cover with a damp towel. Let rise, preferably at around 70-75 degrees, for 3 to 5 hours, until doubled in bulk. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Press down gently to get all the air out. Divide in half and shape into two round loaves. Set on a lightly greased or parchment-covered baking sheet and let rise until doubled in size, anywhere from 2 to 3 hours, possibly more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Bake for 45-50 minutes, until crust is well-browned. To avoid gumminess, let cool on a rack for at least an hour before you tear into it. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Sometimes, you don't want the hard-crusted, rip-and-tug Euro-styled country loaf that's become the city's default daily bread. Sometimes, you and your jam want a bread that holds up to slicing and toasting, a bread without gaping jelly-dripping holes, ready for butter and honey or peanut butter and banana sandwiches, in short, a bread you can only have if you make it yourself. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/bread500a.jpg\" alt=\"Multi-Grain bread\" title=\"Multi-Grain bread\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9596\">\u003cbr>\nWhy bake bread when you live in Bay Area? Acme, Della Fattoria, Grace, Brickmaiden, Thorough Bread, and Tartine (to name just a few favorites) all ply their trade around here, kneading and rising and selling their wares at storefront bakeries and supermarkets, gourmet stores and farmers' markets. Just as you can usually pick up a decent bottle of wine or a six-pack of microbrew at even a dumpy corner bodega here, so you don't have to go far to score a pretty excellent loaf of bread. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, yes, I'm grateful to all the dedicated professional bakers out there. But sometimes I don't \u003cem>want\u003c/em> the hard-crusted, rip-and-tug Euro-styled country loaf that has become our city's default daily bread. Sometimes, my jam and I want a slice that's a little more dense and mellow, something without gaping jelly-dripping holes, something whose crumb is worth chewing. A bread that holds up to slicing and toasting. A butter-and-honey bread, a bread for peanut butter and banana sandwiches, in short, a bread that you can only have if you make it yourself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, there are perfectly nice, widely available loaf breads out there. Vital Vittles makes a bunch, as does Alvarado Street Bakery. But somehow, pre-sliced bread twist-tied in a plastic bag always feels a little soulless to me, no matter how many wheat berries and sunflower seeds are found within. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is nothing like the smell of homemade bread to perfume your house on a winter's day, and nothing like the taste of it, either. And any invitation—to dinner, to teatime, to dinner that you hope will be followed by breakfast—is sweetened by the nonchalant appearance of bread baked by your very own hands. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But before you laugh hollowly, contemplating your overscheduled life with no room for rising in it, I say, the cool, slow, low-yeast rise is your friend, my busy pal. Most bread recipes call for way too much yeast and heat. Why? Because a dough loaded up with yeast, like a Long Island Iced Tea or a turbo-charged vibrator, gets the job done faster. But the point here is the product, not how fast you can get there. A bread that rises slowly is a bread that tastes of grain, not yeast. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, slowing down the time it takes for your bread to go from dough to loaf frees you up. A long, cool rise is actually much easier to manage, because you can leave the house for hours at a time and get all manner of things done while your dough is slowly inching up in the bowl. Plus, you have a lot more wiggle room. Since the rise goes slowly, it takes a lot longer to get to the threat-of-collapse stage. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given that the average drafty Victorian is fairly cool, even with the hallway heater on, a bowl of dough left on the kitchen counter will probably take anywhere from 3 to 5 hours to double in size. And if things (playdates, the line at the DMV, prime makeout opportunities) get away from you, you can always punch it down and let it go for a second rise before shaping it into loaves. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In general, it's pretty hard to screw this bread up. Once you make it a few times, you won't even need to measure; as long as the proportions are roughly the same, precision isn't necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The one bread-killer is overheating the yeast; yeast dies outright at 140 degrees F, and doesn't much like temps over 120 degrees. So, make sure to dissolve your yeast in tepid water (drip some on your wrist; it should feel just about skin temperature, neither hot nor cold) and make sure that the cereal goop has cooled to barely lukewarm before you stir in the flour and yeast. (Stir the mix thoroughly to make sure there are no pockets of heat remaining before you add the yeast.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Again, because I like a slow rise, I use ordinary active dry yeast, not rapid-rise or instant yeast. And speaking of yeast, it seems a lot of people worry about the viability of their yeast. Unless you bought it 10 years ago or have kept it stashed right over the stove, it's fine. Most jars or foil-sealed packets of yeast are good for a year or more at room temperature, even more if stored in the freezer or fridge. In decades of bread baking, the only bad yeast experience I've ever had has been with Rize Organic Yeast. In the 2 or 3 times I've tried this brand, it has never risen for me, leaving me with leaden lumps of useless dough. With the readily available Red Star and Fleischmann's brands, no problems. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, this bread is the best use I know for that multi-grain, steel-cut hot cereal mix you find in the bulk bins at Rainbow Grocery or Berkeley Bowl. The texture depends on the nubbly chunkiness of the mix, so don't substitute powdery instant or quick-cooking cereal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Easy Multi-Grain Bread\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You could also make a vegan version by substituting vegetable oil or Earth Balance (the kind that comes in sticks, not in a tub) for the butter, and agave, maple, or brown-rice syrup for the honey. Molasses works too, although it will add a more prominent flavor to the finished loaf. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 loaves\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nIngredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 cup multi-grain hot cereal blend (not instant)\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup dry polenta\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp butter\u003cbr>\n2 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp honey\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups boiling water\u003cbr>\n1 packet active dry yeast (2 tsp)\u003cbr>\n1 cup rye flour\u003cbr>\n3 to 3 1/2 cups white flour (or a mix of whole wheat and white flour)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. In a large bowl, combine cereal, polenta, butter, salt, and honey. Pour in boiling water and stir to combine. Set aside to cool, which will probably take about 30 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. When mixture has cooled to lukewarm, it's time to get your yeast ready. Sprinkle yeast over 3 tablespoons of tepid water in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 minutes, then stir to dissolve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Beat rye flour into cereal mixture. Stir in yeast, then add white and/or whole wheat flour, 1 cup at a time. Dough should be soft and sticky, but not so goopy that your hands turn into big gooey dough-paws when you try to knead it. Every batch will be different, depending on the humidity of the air and the moisture in your flour, but start with 3 cups, and save the remaining half-cup to sprinkle in as necessary while you knead. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. If you can, let dough rest for 10 minutes before kneading. This helps the flour begin absorbing the liquid in the dough, so you won't have to add so much extra flour to make it manageable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface. Push the dough away from you with the heels of your hands. Fold it over towards you. Turn it a quarter turn to the right, and repeat. Push, fold, turn, for about 10 minutes, adding small sprinkles of flour as needed to keep it from getting unbearably sticky. When well-kneaded, it should feel like a relaxed inner thigh, or a lady's un-Pilatized stomach. (If naked ladies aren't your frame of reference, a man's torso will do just fine, but imagine more bear than buff.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Drop the dough back in the bowl and cover with a damp towel. Let rise, preferably at around 70-75 degrees, for 3 to 5 hours, until doubled in bulk. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Press down gently to get all the air out. Divide in half and shape into two round loaves. Set on a lightly greased or parchment-covered baking sheet and let rise until doubled in size, anywhere from 2 to 3 hours, possibly more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Bake for 45-50 minutes, until crust is well-browned. To avoid gumminess, let cool on a rack for at least an hour before you tear into it. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/latkes300.jpg\" alt=\"latkes\" title=\"latkes\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-9028\">When it comes to latkes, a lot of quibbles come up before the first potato is even peeled. Thick and hefty, or crispy-lacy? Do you hand-grate the potato or process it to mush? Squeeze out the liquid or let it be? Par-boil the potatoes, or avoid the potato altogether and head for the untrammeled wilds of zucchini with parmesan or yams with ginger? Can bacon be involved? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But all of these questions are nothing compared to the Big One. Which is, of course, OMG these latkes are SO GOOD why don't you make them EVERY NIGHT???\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This, of course, is a question for sages and Jewish mothers everywhere to contemplate. The answer may become clear in the aftermath of a good latke fry-up, when bits of shredded potato are shriveling to blackness all over the counter, and a fine mist of splattered oil surrounds the stove. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Right now, though, Chanukah has just begun, and latke enthusiasm is at its height. Why potato pancakes for Chanukah, you ask? First, there's the holiday's celebration of scrappiness trumping might, the humble potato standing in for the outnumbered, outpowered but triumphant Maccabees. Able to reclaim their desecrated temple, so the story goes, the Jews found only one day's worth of oil for light, with the nearest source of consecrated oil a week's journey away. Then the little miracle: the one day's worth of oil burned for eight days, hence the eight days of Chanukah, and the dictum to fry, fry, fry. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anything fried will work, and Jews around the world fry up all kinds of different things. In Israel, the go-to Chanukah treat is \u003cem>soufganiot,\u003c/em> jelly-filled doughnuts dusted with powdered sugar. In Eastern Europe, however, winter meant root vegetables, most likely fried in chicken or goose fat, served with applesauce for sweetness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the Bay Area, we can do a little of each: potatoes for cultural tradition, fried in olive oil for religious significance, or just because it's local and we use olive oil for everything, anyway. If you have chicken fat or goose fat or duck fat lying around looking for trouble, use it by all means, perhaps half-and-half with a mild vegetable oil like canola so that the simple potato taste isn't clobbered by poultry-ness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, on to technique. Since I am not your mother, or (more importantly) your new Jewish husband's mother, nothing I tell you need influence your latke-making in the least if you already love your latkes. But if, sadly, you've been relying all these years on those nasty frozen ones that taste like wadded-up flannel pajamas, or your children have suddenly reached latke-eating age and you feel compelled to hand down a little tradition, even if otherwise you order in pad thai, burritos or \u003cem>aloo gobi\u003c/em> every night of the week, here is everything you need to know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, if you're going to fry, fry for a crowd. Making latkes is a festive event, and the more people around, the less you'll notice what a giant mess all that spattering oil has made of your kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you start in with the latkes, you won't have the focus or energy for anything else. Since most people's appetite for potato pancakes is limitless, especially if they're only made once a year, you should put together some satisfying one-pot thing the night before, like \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/28/borscht-for-chanukah/\">hot beet borscht\u003c/a> or a slow-cooked \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Braised-Beef-Brisket-355532\">brisket\u003c/a>, with challah or rye bread on the side. This also gives you something to throw at your guests as they start circling the stove and eyeing your spatula like starving hyenas, drawn by the irresistible diner whiff of sizzling potatoes, onion, and grease. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Second, grate by hand. Like writing thank you notes or taking off your mascara before bed, this process looms much larger in the imagination than in actual minutes spent. Use the coarse holes on a big box grater, and you'll get perfect texture and minimal clean-up. No need to peel the potatoes, especially if you're using organic spuds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alternate onion and potato as you grate, since the onion juices will help keep the potato shreds from oxidizing into gray yuck as you go. Another thing: don't grate more than you can fry up in a few batches. If you're frying for a crowd, don't be tempted to grate up ahead of time. Liquid will seep, potatoes will blacken, and you'll end up with a bowl of unpleasant, gray-black soupy sludge that even frying cannot redeem. Instead, grate, mix, fry, repeat. (See \"Why don't we have these every night?\", above.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once your potatoes and onions are grated, scoop the shreds into a large colander set over a big bowl. Now, get your hands into that potato mound and act like you're wringing a pair of very wet socks. Squeeze and wring, squeeze and wring, releasing as much liquid as possible. Sex educator and cultural critic Susie Bright, a woman who knows how to find the right tool for the job, swears by a \u003ca href=\"http://susiebright.blogs.com/susie_brights_journal_/2006/12/the_leauge_of_a.html\">potato ricer\u003c/a> for this; others load their taters into clean tea towels and wring away. Me, I'm a two-hands, no-equipment kind of lady, but follow your inclinations. When all the potatoes look well-wrung, step back and let the liquid collected in the bowl stand for a couple of minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, separate your eggs, dropping the egg whites into a big bowl and putting the yolks aside. Hand the egg white to a helpful guest, and ask them to whisk them into stiff peaks. Here, technology helps; like natural childbirth, whisking egg whites with nothing but muscle tone and a whisk is admirable but achingly slow. If you don't have a hand-held electric mixer, just tell people to pass the whisk along when they tire out. Line a cookie sheet with paper towels and place it near (but not within catching-on-fire range of) the stove.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lift up your colander of potatoes and onion. Underneath, you'll see a pool of brownish liquid with a squeaky layer of pinkish-tan potato starch at the bottom. Pour off the liquid, then dump the grated potato on top of the starch. Add the egg yolks, the matzoh meal or flour, and plenty of salt and pepper. Mix it all together, being sure to scrape up the extra starch from the bottom of the bowl. Track down that bowl of egg whites. Quickly, scoop the whites onto the potato mixture, and using a down-and-around motion, fold the whites into the grated potato. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat up a couple of wide, heavy frying pans (cast iron works best). Add about 1/2 inch of oil to each one, and get that oil really good and hot. (Buy a fresh bottle of oil for this endeavor. You'll need a lot more than you think.) When a shred of potato sputters and bubbles, slide as many large spoonfuls of potato as you can fit into the pan without crowding. Fry, turning once, until pancakes are a rich mahogany brown. Drain on paper towels, blotting off as much grease as possible so they'll stay crisp. If necessary, keep the first batch warm in a 250°F oven while you fry up another round. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you fry, your friends and family will exhort you to come, sit down, eat. Ignore them. This is the martyrdom known to every latke maker: you must stand and work while others sit and enjoy. (See \"Why don't we have these every night?\", above.) Serve with sour cream and applesauce. You might think you could go all California and use salsa or fig chutney instead, but you would be wrong. Or not; maybe latkes are \u003cem>sensational\u003c/em> with fig chutney. (Gravy, I've been told, is wonderful on matzoh balls.) But try trusting your inner grandmother first.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Latkes\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis recipe makes thin, crispy latkes, more hash brown than hockey puck, because you can always make room for one more latke when they're light. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 lbs potatoes, well scrubbed\u003cbr>\n1 large yellow onion, peeled\u003cbr>\n2 eggs, separated\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons flour or matzoh meal\u003cbr>\n2 tsp salt, or to taste\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground pepper\u003cbr>\nVegetable oil, for frying, or whatever fat you want (Yes, I'm sure bacon fat would be delicious, but really, must you?)\u003cbr>\nSour cream and applesauce, for serving\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Grate potatoes and onion alternately. Scoop grated mixture into a large colander suspended over a large bowl. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Squeeze and wring excess liquid out of potato mixture. Let potato mixture drain for a few minutes. Lift up colander, and pour off excess liquid below, reserving the layer of potato starch at the bottom. Dump grated potatoes on top of potato starch, and mix in egg yolks, flour, salt, and pepper, making sure to scrape the layer of potato starch into the mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Beat egg whites to stiff peaks. Fold egg whites into potato mixture. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Heat 1/2 inch of vegetable oil in a heavy frying pan. Drop in a shred of potato; when it sizzles and bubbles, slide in as many large spoonfuls of potato mixture as you can without crowding. Fry over medium-high heat, turning once, until pancakes are well-browned. Add more oil as necessary for subsequent batches, but make sure to get it good and hot before adding the potatoes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately with sour cream and applesauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 20 latkes.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/latkes300.jpg\" alt=\"latkes\" title=\"latkes\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-9028\">When it comes to latkes, a lot of quibbles come up before the first potato is even peeled. Thick and hefty, or crispy-lacy? Do you hand-grate the potato or process it to mush? Squeeze out the liquid or let it be? Par-boil the potatoes, or avoid the potato altogether and head for the untrammeled wilds of zucchini with parmesan or yams with ginger? Can bacon be involved? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But all of these questions are nothing compared to the Big One. Which is, of course, OMG these latkes are SO GOOD why don't you make them EVERY NIGHT???\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This, of course, is a question for sages and Jewish mothers everywhere to contemplate. The answer may become clear in the aftermath of a good latke fry-up, when bits of shredded potato are shriveling to blackness all over the counter, and a fine mist of splattered oil surrounds the stove. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Right now, though, Chanukah has just begun, and latke enthusiasm is at its height. Why potato pancakes for Chanukah, you ask? First, there's the holiday's celebration of scrappiness trumping might, the humble potato standing in for the outnumbered, outpowered but triumphant Maccabees. Able to reclaim their desecrated temple, so the story goes, the Jews found only one day's worth of oil for light, with the nearest source of consecrated oil a week's journey away. Then the little miracle: the one day's worth of oil burned for eight days, hence the eight days of Chanukah, and the dictum to fry, fry, fry. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anything fried will work, and Jews around the world fry up all kinds of different things. In Israel, the go-to Chanukah treat is \u003cem>soufganiot,\u003c/em> jelly-filled doughnuts dusted with powdered sugar. In Eastern Europe, however, winter meant root vegetables, most likely fried in chicken or goose fat, served with applesauce for sweetness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the Bay Area, we can do a little of each: potatoes for cultural tradition, fried in olive oil for religious significance, or just because it's local and we use olive oil for everything, anyway. If you have chicken fat or goose fat or duck fat lying around looking for trouble, use it by all means, perhaps half-and-half with a mild vegetable oil like canola so that the simple potato taste isn't clobbered by poultry-ness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, on to technique. Since I am not your mother, or (more importantly) your new Jewish husband's mother, nothing I tell you need influence your latke-making in the least if you already love your latkes. But if, sadly, you've been relying all these years on those nasty frozen ones that taste like wadded-up flannel pajamas, or your children have suddenly reached latke-eating age and you feel compelled to hand down a little tradition, even if otherwise you order in pad thai, burritos or \u003cem>aloo gobi\u003c/em> every night of the week, here is everything you need to know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, if you're going to fry, fry for a crowd. Making latkes is a festive event, and the more people around, the less you'll notice what a giant mess all that spattering oil has made of your kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you start in with the latkes, you won't have the focus or energy for anything else. Since most people's appetite for potato pancakes is limitless, especially if they're only made once a year, you should put together some satisfying one-pot thing the night before, like \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/28/borscht-for-chanukah/\">hot beet borscht\u003c/a> or a slow-cooked \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Braised-Beef-Brisket-355532\">brisket\u003c/a>, with challah or rye bread on the side. This also gives you something to throw at your guests as they start circling the stove and eyeing your spatula like starving hyenas, drawn by the irresistible diner whiff of sizzling potatoes, onion, and grease. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Second, grate by hand. Like writing thank you notes or taking off your mascara before bed, this process looms much larger in the imagination than in actual minutes spent. Use the coarse holes on a big box grater, and you'll get perfect texture and minimal clean-up. No need to peel the potatoes, especially if you're using organic spuds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alternate onion and potato as you grate, since the onion juices will help keep the potato shreds from oxidizing into gray yuck as you go. Another thing: don't grate more than you can fry up in a few batches. If you're frying for a crowd, don't be tempted to grate up ahead of time. Liquid will seep, potatoes will blacken, and you'll end up with a bowl of unpleasant, gray-black soupy sludge that even frying cannot redeem. Instead, grate, mix, fry, repeat. (See \"Why don't we have these every night?\", above.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once your potatoes and onions are grated, scoop the shreds into a large colander set over a big bowl. Now, get your hands into that potato mound and act like you're wringing a pair of very wet socks. Squeeze and wring, squeeze and wring, releasing as much liquid as possible. Sex educator and cultural critic Susie Bright, a woman who knows how to find the right tool for the job, swears by a \u003ca href=\"http://susiebright.blogs.com/susie_brights_journal_/2006/12/the_leauge_of_a.html\">potato ricer\u003c/a> for this; others load their taters into clean tea towels and wring away. Me, I'm a two-hands, no-equipment kind of lady, but follow your inclinations. When all the potatoes look well-wrung, step back and let the liquid collected in the bowl stand for a couple of minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, separate your eggs, dropping the egg whites into a big bowl and putting the yolks aside. Hand the egg white to a helpful guest, and ask them to whisk them into stiff peaks. Here, technology helps; like natural childbirth, whisking egg whites with nothing but muscle tone and a whisk is admirable but achingly slow. If you don't have a hand-held electric mixer, just tell people to pass the whisk along when they tire out. Line a cookie sheet with paper towels and place it near (but not within catching-on-fire range of) the stove.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lift up your colander of potatoes and onion. Underneath, you'll see a pool of brownish liquid with a squeaky layer of pinkish-tan potato starch at the bottom. Pour off the liquid, then dump the grated potato on top of the starch. Add the egg yolks, the matzoh meal or flour, and plenty of salt and pepper. Mix it all together, being sure to scrape up the extra starch from the bottom of the bowl. Track down that bowl of egg whites. Quickly, scoop the whites onto the potato mixture, and using a down-and-around motion, fold the whites into the grated potato. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat up a couple of wide, heavy frying pans (cast iron works best). Add about 1/2 inch of oil to each one, and get that oil really good and hot. (Buy a fresh bottle of oil for this endeavor. You'll need a lot more than you think.) When a shred of potato sputters and bubbles, slide as many large spoonfuls of potato as you can fit into the pan without crowding. Fry, turning once, until pancakes are a rich mahogany brown. Drain on paper towels, blotting off as much grease as possible so they'll stay crisp. If necessary, keep the first batch warm in a 250°F oven while you fry up another round. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you fry, your friends and family will exhort you to come, sit down, eat. Ignore them. This is the martyrdom known to every latke maker: you must stand and work while others sit and enjoy. (See \"Why don't we have these every night?\", above.) Serve with sour cream and applesauce. You might think you could go all California and use salsa or fig chutney instead, but you would be wrong. Or not; maybe latkes are \u003cem>sensational\u003c/em> with fig chutney. (Gravy, I've been told, is wonderful on matzoh balls.) But try trusting your inner grandmother first.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Latkes\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis recipe makes thin, crispy latkes, more hash brown than hockey puck, because you can always make room for one more latke when they're light. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 lbs potatoes, well scrubbed\u003cbr>\n1 large yellow onion, peeled\u003cbr>\n2 eggs, separated\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons flour or matzoh meal\u003cbr>\n2 tsp salt, or to taste\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground pepper\u003cbr>\nVegetable oil, for frying, or whatever fat you want (Yes, I'm sure bacon fat would be delicious, but really, must you?)\u003cbr>\nSour cream and applesauce, for serving\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Grate potatoes and onion alternately. Scoop grated mixture into a large colander suspended over a large bowl. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Squeeze and wring excess liquid out of potato mixture. Let potato mixture drain for a few minutes. Lift up colander, and pour off excess liquid below, reserving the layer of potato starch at the bottom. Dump grated potatoes on top of potato starch, and mix in egg yolks, flour, salt, and pepper, making sure to scrape the layer of potato starch into the mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Beat egg whites to stiff peaks. Fold egg whites into potato mixture. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Heat 1/2 inch of vegetable oil in a heavy frying pan. Drop in a shred of potato; when it sizzles and bubbles, slide in as many large spoonfuls of potato mixture as you can without crowding. Fry over medium-high heat, turning once, until pancakes are well-browned. Add more oil as necessary for subsequent batches, but make sure to get it good and hot before adding the potatoes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately with sour cream and applesauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 20 latkes.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/finished-pie.jpg\" alt=\"the finished pie\" title=\"the finished pie\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-8416\">Run through your Thanksgiving menu in your head, right now. Something in there is making you nervous. Very nervous. What it is? You can admit it. It's not a phobia, more like an...inadequacy, a fear of never being as good as grandma, a lingering humiliation from that one year you tried and the knife wouldn't even cut through the bottom crust, so rock-like it was. Or when the dough glued itself to the counter in a rebellious mound, refusing to roll and instead sticking to every surface save the pie pan. But yes, it's real. We call it Fear of Pie-ing. And that's why I'm here, your Pie Therapist on call. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let's get it straight: no one really worries about the filling. They might wonder if the apples should be cut thick or thin, whether to thicken with cornstarch or flour. But inevitably, it's the crust that strikes fear in the heart of grown men and women, even those who can whip out an osso bucco or tom kai gai with aplomb. They hit up the bakery, they settle for those nasty frozen pre-made crusts, they make crisp and cobbler instead. I'm here to tell you: there is NO magic about making pie crust. It takes four ingredients, about 20 minutes or less of hands-on time, and the results are so flaky, so buttery, so sublime, you will amaze your loved ones (and yourself) for life. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, easy for you to say, I hear you muttering. You grew up making pie with Mom, pushing a crumbly handful of dough into a little Pyrex dish so you could dig into your very own pie for dessert. Fair enough. The challenge was this: could two urbanites, one a non-cook, the other a non-baker, turn into confident pie-bakers after a single session with the Pie Therapist? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first patient was Kevin, a psychotherapist, who lives in the Castro. Although he has a longtime partner, he has what I think of as the bachelor fridge: limes and condiments. When I arrive with my bag of equipment, he tells me that he had to wake up his sick upstairs neighbor to borrow a pie pan. I realize quickly never to assume what someone will have in his kitchen. In this case, what's missing is anything like a mixing bowl. We make do with a small saucepan and a couple of pasta bowls. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, of course, a little therapeutic assessment. His mom was a busy single working woman with no time for baking. Grandma, on the other hand, was a fantastic cook and a great baker, whose pies were memorable. Unfortunately, her recipes passed on with her, and no one in the family has been able to come close. Kevin's sole kitchen skill? Making a mean margarita, and happily, he demonstrates. We put on the Loretta Lynn and get busy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First up, the dry ingredients. Flour, a little salt, a little sugar, stirred together in the pot. A glass of ice water, set aside. He's bought fancy butter, a good thing, in this case the high-butterfat, European-style butter from Straus Creamery, Marin's organic dairy. I tell him I've met the Straus family and their happy grass-roaming cows, and we rub up a little locavore glow, helped along by the tequila. Then the butter is cubed and tossed into the flour so that each cube is coated. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/butter-nickels.jpg\" alt=\"making the butter nickels\" title=\"making the butter nickels\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8415\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Now, hold your hands out in front of you, palms up, like a statue of Jesus,\" I tell him, and we scoop our fingers, palms up, down and up through the butter-chunked flour. \"Now, pick up a butter cube between your thumb and fingertips. Flatten it out to a little butter nickel, and drop it back into the bowl.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keep scooping, aerating the flour as you go, and flattening out your butter nickels. The trick is to keep everything light and airy--no squeezing, no mashing. You don't want paste, you want a crumbly mixture of flour layered with shards of cold fat. As long as you keep your palms facing up and only your thumb and fingertips working the dough, all is well. Stop when it looks somewhere between peas and rolled oatmeal, chunkier than you might imagine, and definitely before it gets to to the dry-cornmeal stage most cookbooks recommend. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So far, so good. Now, the water to make the dough: four or five tablespoons, mixed in lightly with a fork. Then sprinkled in, a tablespoon at a time, maybe 8 to 10 tablespoons in all. Pick up a handful of dough, and squeeze gently. It should come together in a ball that holds together but isn't wet or gluey. Err on the side of slight crumbliness, if you must.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/squeezing-the-dough.jpg\" alt=\"squeezing the dough\" title=\"squeezing the dough\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8418\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the dough holds together, it goes into the pie-baker's friend, the gallon-size resealable bag. Dough firmly pushed down into a round, air pressed out from the bag and sealed, then into the freezer for 20 minutes, or the fridge for an hour (or overnight). While not absolutely necessary, it relaxes the dough and firms up the butter, increasingly flakiness and making it less likely to stick while rolling or shrink during baking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dough comes out and is divided in half, with the second half going back in the fridge. Onto a lightly floured board, we press our dough-lump into a roughly round patty. \"A rolling pin makes life easier,\" I tell Kevin as I pick up my wooden pin. \"But then again, I've also rolled out a lot of pie crusts with a wine bottle.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I hand him the pin and tell him to think of the dough as a sun, with rays radiating out from the center. \"Don't roll back and forth like you're paving a highway. Roll from the center to the edge, around and around so you make an even circle. And after every few rolls, loosen the dough with a spatula, so it doesn't get in the habit of sticking.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He rolls and rolls, and soon we've got a circle a couple of inches bigger than our pan. We loosen the dough, fold in half and in half again, and transfer it into the pan, since it's much easier to move a thick folded triangle of dough than a thin floppy circle. Unfold, press lightly, put in the fridge and repeat with the other half of the dough. The filling goes in--in this case, blueberries, mixed with sugar and a little cornstarch--the top is draped on and crimped, and it goes into the oven. An hour later, his partner is home, and they are two men with a hot pie. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kevin is happy and amazed that it could be so easy. Scones, he wants to make next, and I tell him it's the same technique: mix the dry ingredients, cut in the butter, add liquid, then roll out and cut. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next patient is Leslie, a great cook and a longtime cookbook editor and author. What could I possibly teach her? But baking, it turns out, is where she feels out of control. \"Bread, cake, pie,\" is how she describes her hierarchy of baking fears. We decide to start at the bottom, with pie. In this case, she has bowls galore, but no pie pan, since she never makes pies. \"I'm a crisp person,\" she admits. We go through the same steps, and I show her the fluff-it-up, palms-up technique. \"Bring it up to God!\" she laughs, and we agree. Surely there is pie in heaven, good pie. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/pie-fruit.jpg\" alt=\"Mound the filling high\" title=\"Mound the filling high\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8417\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's apple this time, and we slice and mound the apples high while the crust chills. This crust is a little crumbly, and wants to crack and stick as we roll. I grab the baker's friend, plastic wrap (waxed paper works well too), and we slap a sheet of plastic between the rolling pin and the dough. Suddenly, everything's easy: the dough stops sticking and the cracks seal up. We fold and drape and crimp, and the pie goes into the oven. Leslie is ecstatic: she has conquered pie! An hour later, her family sits down to steaming slices. Her nieces battle forks for the last piece of crust on the plate. And the Pie Therapist packs up her rolling pin and slips out into the night, another job done. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>All Butter Pie Crust\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYes, shortening is easier to work with. But honestly, it's not that hard to use butter, and the taste is so wonderful, there's no reason to bother with anything else. Anyway, if you're going to eat fat, eat honest tasty fat that tastes good. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for baking times, it depends on the type of filling. Most double-crusted fruit pies can be baked at 375F for about 45 to 55 minutes, until crust in golden brown and filling is just bubbling up. For a single-crust pie, like pumpkin or pecan, bake at 350F for 30-40 minutes, until filling is just set but still a slightly jiggly, since filling will continue to set as it cools. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Equipment:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\na large bowl\u003cbr>\nmeasuring cups and spoons\u003cbr>\na large spoon for mixing\u003cbr>\na pie pan (metal, glass, or ceramic)\u003cbr>\na rolling pin\u003cbr>\nresealable plastic bag or plastic wrap\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Makes: Enough for a 9-inch 2-crust pie\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/4 cups flour\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 tablespoons sugar\u003cbr>\n2 sticks (8 oz, 1 cup) butter, chilled\u003cbr>\n8 to 10 tablespoons ice water\u003cbr>\nextra flour for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a large bowl, sift or whisk together flour, salt, and sugar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Cut butter into 1/2-inch cubes. Toss butter cubes into flour mixture. Rub butter cubes between your thumb and fingertips, palms up, until butter flattens into little flour-covered nickels. Keep scooping up flour and butter cubes and flattening into nickels until all butter is flattened into shards. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Lightly stir in half the water. Add the rest in drizzles, stirring and scooping dough until it just holds together; you may not use all the water. Squeeze a handful of dough together; it should hold together without crumbling. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Scoop dough into a gallon-size resealable bag. Flatten dough into a thick patty, press air from bag and seal. Chill for at least an hour in the refrigerator, or 20 minutes in the freezer. You can make your dough up to 2 days in advance, keeping it in the refrigerator, or store for up to a month in the freezer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. To roll out dough, sprinkle a wide work surface with flour. Divide dough in half and shape into a round. Rub rolling pin with flour and roll out into a thin, even circle, loosening dough frequently with a spatula. If dough is hard to roll or cracks, it may be too cold. Let it warm up for a couple of minutes, then try again. Put a sheet of waxed paper or plastic wrap between your rolling pin and the dough if dough is very sticky. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Loosen dough with a spatula. Fold in half, and then in half again. Transfer to pie pan and press lightly into the pan. Trim so dough is nearly flush with edges of pan. Put in the fridge and roll out second half of dough. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Put filling into pie pan, top with top crust, and seal edges together, crimping in whatever decorative fashion you like. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Note: For a single crust, use 1 1/4 cups flour, 1/4 tsp salt, 1 tbsp sugar, 8 tbsp butter (4 oz/ 1/2 cup), 3-4 tbsp ice water\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/finished-pie.jpg\" alt=\"the finished pie\" title=\"the finished pie\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-8416\">Run through your Thanksgiving menu in your head, right now. Something in there is making you nervous. Very nervous. What it is? You can admit it. It's not a phobia, more like an...inadequacy, a fear of never being as good as grandma, a lingering humiliation from that one year you tried and the knife wouldn't even cut through the bottom crust, so rock-like it was. Or when the dough glued itself to the counter in a rebellious mound, refusing to roll and instead sticking to every surface save the pie pan. But yes, it's real. We call it Fear of Pie-ing. And that's why I'm here, your Pie Therapist on call. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let's get it straight: no one really worries about the filling. They might wonder if the apples should be cut thick or thin, whether to thicken with cornstarch or flour. But inevitably, it's the crust that strikes fear in the heart of grown men and women, even those who can whip out an osso bucco or tom kai gai with aplomb. They hit up the bakery, they settle for those nasty frozen pre-made crusts, they make crisp and cobbler instead. I'm here to tell you: there is NO magic about making pie crust. It takes four ingredients, about 20 minutes or less of hands-on time, and the results are so flaky, so buttery, so sublime, you will amaze your loved ones (and yourself) for life. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, easy for you to say, I hear you muttering. You grew up making pie with Mom, pushing a crumbly handful of dough into a little Pyrex dish so you could dig into your very own pie for dessert. Fair enough. The challenge was this: could two urbanites, one a non-cook, the other a non-baker, turn into confident pie-bakers after a single session with the Pie Therapist? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first patient was Kevin, a psychotherapist, who lives in the Castro. Although he has a longtime partner, he has what I think of as the bachelor fridge: limes and condiments. When I arrive with my bag of equipment, he tells me that he had to wake up his sick upstairs neighbor to borrow a pie pan. I realize quickly never to assume what someone will have in his kitchen. In this case, what's missing is anything like a mixing bowl. We make do with a small saucepan and a couple of pasta bowls. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, of course, a little therapeutic assessment. His mom was a busy single working woman with no time for baking. Grandma, on the other hand, was a fantastic cook and a great baker, whose pies were memorable. Unfortunately, her recipes passed on with her, and no one in the family has been able to come close. Kevin's sole kitchen skill? Making a mean margarita, and happily, he demonstrates. We put on the Loretta Lynn and get busy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First up, the dry ingredients. Flour, a little salt, a little sugar, stirred together in the pot. A glass of ice water, set aside. He's bought fancy butter, a good thing, in this case the high-butterfat, European-style butter from Straus Creamery, Marin's organic dairy. I tell him I've met the Straus family and their happy grass-roaming cows, and we rub up a little locavore glow, helped along by the tequila. Then the butter is cubed and tossed into the flour so that each cube is coated. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/butter-nickels.jpg\" alt=\"making the butter nickels\" title=\"making the butter nickels\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8415\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Now, hold your hands out in front of you, palms up, like a statue of Jesus,\" I tell him, and we scoop our fingers, palms up, down and up through the butter-chunked flour. \"Now, pick up a butter cube between your thumb and fingertips. Flatten it out to a little butter nickel, and drop it back into the bowl.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keep scooping, aerating the flour as you go, and flattening out your butter nickels. The trick is to keep everything light and airy--no squeezing, no mashing. You don't want paste, you want a crumbly mixture of flour layered with shards of cold fat. As long as you keep your palms facing up and only your thumb and fingertips working the dough, all is well. Stop when it looks somewhere between peas and rolled oatmeal, chunkier than you might imagine, and definitely before it gets to to the dry-cornmeal stage most cookbooks recommend. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So far, so good. Now, the water to make the dough: four or five tablespoons, mixed in lightly with a fork. Then sprinkled in, a tablespoon at a time, maybe 8 to 10 tablespoons in all. Pick up a handful of dough, and squeeze gently. It should come together in a ball that holds together but isn't wet or gluey. Err on the side of slight crumbliness, if you must.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/squeezing-the-dough.jpg\" alt=\"squeezing the dough\" title=\"squeezing the dough\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8418\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the dough holds together, it goes into the pie-baker's friend, the gallon-size resealable bag. Dough firmly pushed down into a round, air pressed out from the bag and sealed, then into the freezer for 20 minutes, or the fridge for an hour (or overnight). While not absolutely necessary, it relaxes the dough and firms up the butter, increasingly flakiness and making it less likely to stick while rolling or shrink during baking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dough comes out and is divided in half, with the second half going back in the fridge. Onto a lightly floured board, we press our dough-lump into a roughly round patty. \"A rolling pin makes life easier,\" I tell Kevin as I pick up my wooden pin. \"But then again, I've also rolled out a lot of pie crusts with a wine bottle.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I hand him the pin and tell him to think of the dough as a sun, with rays radiating out from the center. \"Don't roll back and forth like you're paving a highway. Roll from the center to the edge, around and around so you make an even circle. And after every few rolls, loosen the dough with a spatula, so it doesn't get in the habit of sticking.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He rolls and rolls, and soon we've got a circle a couple of inches bigger than our pan. We loosen the dough, fold in half and in half again, and transfer it into the pan, since it's much easier to move a thick folded triangle of dough than a thin floppy circle. Unfold, press lightly, put in the fridge and repeat with the other half of the dough. The filling goes in--in this case, blueberries, mixed with sugar and a little cornstarch--the top is draped on and crimped, and it goes into the oven. An hour later, his partner is home, and they are two men with a hot pie. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kevin is happy and amazed that it could be so easy. Scones, he wants to make next, and I tell him it's the same technique: mix the dry ingredients, cut in the butter, add liquid, then roll out and cut. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next patient is Leslie, a great cook and a longtime cookbook editor and author. What could I possibly teach her? But baking, it turns out, is where she feels out of control. \"Bread, cake, pie,\" is how she describes her hierarchy of baking fears. We decide to start at the bottom, with pie. In this case, she has bowls galore, but no pie pan, since she never makes pies. \"I'm a crisp person,\" she admits. We go through the same steps, and I show her the fluff-it-up, palms-up technique. \"Bring it up to God!\" she laughs, and we agree. Surely there is pie in heaven, good pie. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/pie-fruit.jpg\" alt=\"Mound the filling high\" title=\"Mound the filling high\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8417\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's apple this time, and we slice and mound the apples high while the crust chills. This crust is a little crumbly, and wants to crack and stick as we roll. I grab the baker's friend, plastic wrap (waxed paper works well too), and we slap a sheet of plastic between the rolling pin and the dough. Suddenly, everything's easy: the dough stops sticking and the cracks seal up. We fold and drape and crimp, and the pie goes into the oven. Leslie is ecstatic: she has conquered pie! An hour later, her family sits down to steaming slices. Her nieces battle forks for the last piece of crust on the plate. And the Pie Therapist packs up her rolling pin and slips out into the night, another job done. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>All Butter Pie Crust\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYes, shortening is easier to work with. But honestly, it's not that hard to use butter, and the taste is so wonderful, there's no reason to bother with anything else. Anyway, if you're going to eat fat, eat honest tasty fat that tastes good. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for baking times, it depends on the type of filling. Most double-crusted fruit pies can be baked at 375F for about 45 to 55 minutes, until crust in golden brown and filling is just bubbling up. For a single-crust pie, like pumpkin or pecan, bake at 350F for 30-40 minutes, until filling is just set but still a slightly jiggly, since filling will continue to set as it cools. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Equipment:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\na large bowl\u003cbr>\nmeasuring cups and spoons\u003cbr>\na large spoon for mixing\u003cbr>\na pie pan (metal, glass, or ceramic)\u003cbr>\na rolling pin\u003cbr>\nresealable plastic bag or plastic wrap\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Makes: Enough for a 9-inch 2-crust pie\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/4 cups flour\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 tablespoons sugar\u003cbr>\n2 sticks (8 oz, 1 cup) butter, chilled\u003cbr>\n8 to 10 tablespoons ice water\u003cbr>\nextra flour for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a large bowl, sift or whisk together flour, salt, and sugar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Cut butter into 1/2-inch cubes. Toss butter cubes into flour mixture. Rub butter cubes between your thumb and fingertips, palms up, until butter flattens into little flour-covered nickels. Keep scooping up flour and butter cubes and flattening into nickels until all butter is flattened into shards. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Lightly stir in half the water. Add the rest in drizzles, stirring and scooping dough until it just holds together; you may not use all the water. Squeeze a handful of dough together; it should hold together without crumbling. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Scoop dough into a gallon-size resealable bag. Flatten dough into a thick patty, press air from bag and seal. Chill for at least an hour in the refrigerator, or 20 minutes in the freezer. You can make your dough up to 2 days in advance, keeping it in the refrigerator, or store for up to a month in the freezer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. To roll out dough, sprinkle a wide work surface with flour. Divide dough in half and shape into a round. Rub rolling pin with flour and roll out into a thin, even circle, loosening dough frequently with a spatula. If dough is hard to roll or cracks, it may be too cold. Let it warm up for a couple of minutes, then try again. Put a sheet of waxed paper or plastic wrap between your rolling pin and the dough if dough is very sticky. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Loosen dough with a spatula. Fold in half, and then in half again. Transfer to pie pan and press lightly into the pan. Trim so dough is nearly flush with edges of pan. Put in the fridge and roll out second half of dough. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Put filling into pie pan, top with top crust, and seal edges together, crimping in whatever decorative fashion you like. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Note: For a single crust, use 1 1/4 cups flour, 1/4 tsp salt, 1 tbsp sugar, 8 tbsp butter (4 oz/ 1/2 cup), 3-4 tbsp ice water\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Cesare's Salad: Tossing My Own.",
"title": "Cesare's Salad: Tossing My Own.",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-8314\" title=\"caesar salad\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/caesar-salad.jpg\" alt=\"caesar salad\" width=\"350\" height=\"231\">I'm a sucker for a great Caesar salad. Call me old school, but there are few things that can beat it in my book. Garlicky, lemony, cheesy, and anchovy-y, if there is such a word. If there isn't, there should be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, a great restaurant Caesar salad has eluded me in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the possible exceptions of Zuni Café and Tadich Grill (both old school and old guard), I have been bitterly disappointed every time I order a Caesar salad in a restaurant. And the above venues merely create good salads, not, in my opinion, great ones. Yet I keep on ordering them everywhere I go. It's like forgetting the pain of childbirth or the tragedy of falling in love with a crazy sadist-- I fall blindly and hopefully back into bed with the salad section of the menu and think, \"This time, it's going to be good. This time I am going to find the one I've been waiting for all my life.\" Invariably, I am served a Romaine salad with either a flaccid, mayonnaise-like dressing, or an underdressed, uninspired one with croutons like ship biscuits that leaves me asking my server for a little extra lemon and another napkin with which I might dry my tears.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps I just live to be disappointed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then, when discussing the demise of this salad with a friend over a lunch that included a particularly sorry looking one, I understood what all of these salads were missing, good and bad:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Drama.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Caesar salad is a dish that cries out for table-side service. It is, in my opinion if not in fact, the ham actor of the salad world-- a fact none too surprising when one considers that it was first created in a pique of impromptu by Cesare Cardini, an Italian man living in the once-glamorous town Tijuana, Mexico. Fortunately for us, Cardini had the good sense (or delicious folly, depending on your point of view) to seek out his fame and fortune in Hollywood, dressing recipe in hand, where the salad soon became a favorite among the local movie stars and luncheon élite. Cesare's salad soon evolved into Caesar's salad and, somewhere along the way, the apostrophe \"s\" was lost, and Caesar salads were being dramatically created in front of and for delighted diners in leather banquetted dining rooms and Danish Modern living rooms across the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, Cesare's salad is going the way of Banana's Foster, Cherries Jubilee, and the dodo, thanks to the demise of table side service. There is little room in most restaurants today to manoeuver the necessary salad carts, and diners (with the possible exception of brief fads like the Benihana's craze of the 70's, and eating at chef's tables in the 90's) seem less interested in having a server who entertains. Lastly, and perhaps most sadly of all, those venues who do still provide table side cooking are often so old-fashioned and unchanging that they have become a sort of dwindling, petrified forest. And those diners who habituate them are either equally as fossilized or, at best, there solely for kitsch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So what can one do?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I, for one, have started making my own damned Caesar salads. Or Cesare salads, as I prefer now to call them. I can make them as obscenely garlicky as I like and can toss them as high and dramatically as my ceiling and physical abilities allow. I'm a professional waiter, after all, and one with a strong dramatic bent. Just ask anyone. Just don't ask me to make one for you at my restaurant-- there is no way in hell I could ever get that rolling cart past the drunken cougars hovering at the bar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lyle's Muy Fuerte Cesare's Salad:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 2 to 4\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At my birthday party last summer, I had decided that my own contribution to the buffet would be my favorite old-school salad, since I was now, officially (according to some people) old. It was then that I realized that I had never actually made one before. The one's I had known and loved were always made for me by people who understand gusto like my friend Shan or my ex-boyfriend Paul, who was about as theatrically dramatic as they come.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I confessed this salad-tossing inexperience to my friend Lyle, he told me he would walk me through the entire process. Being my birthday, I let him take over, while I poured myself another glass of wine and watched him do all the work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a recipe \u003cem>muy fuerte\u003c/em>-- extra garlic, extra anchovy, extra everything. Brash and unsubtle. In other words, just the way I like it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I would suggest preparing this dish with at least one other person in the room when you first try it. Talk the entire time you are mashing, whisking, and tossing. Remember: you are the entertainment. If you don't have anyone on hand to chat with, I suggest, chatting up your pet. If you have no pet, bring a houseplant into your kitchen and talk to that. If you are lacking a house plant, you are more than likely not the type of person who would ever make a Caesar salad and are therefore not reading this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two heads of Romaine lettuce, well washed, outer leaves removed, and torn into bite-sized pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 1/3 cup Parmesan cheese. Please use the good stuff. Nothing that comes out of a shaker will do no matter how good a deal you got with that double coupon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whole anchovies for garnish are entirely optional.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the Dressing:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 coddled egg. Yolk only.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 anchovy filets (spanish, preferably)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cloves garlic, crushed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A pinch of coarse salt (kosher is excellent)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The juice of one half lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 to 5 drops Worcestershire sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 to 5 drops Tabasco sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 tablespoons (approximate) of extra virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coarsely ground black pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Croutons:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For two cups of croutons (it is always a good idea to make extra):\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups of day-old bread (french, sour, white-- take your pick), dried out a touch and cut into 3/4\" cubes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter, melted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>a heavy pinch of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To Coddle an Egg:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coddling the egg yolk lends a richer texture to the dressing by thickening it slightly, in case you were wondering. If you want a better scientific understanding of this process, ask a scientist. I prefer to live in ignorance and call it a miracle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Bring your egg (which should be very fresh) to room temperature by placing it in a heat-proof glass of warm water for a few minutes. When this temperature has been achieved, drain water and cover egg with boiling water. Let stand for exactly one minute. Drain. Run cold water over egg. Egg has now been thoroughly traumatized and is now ready for use in your dressing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Making the Croutons:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat oven to 375F. Drizzle butter/oil mixture over bread cubes while tossing cubes with your free hand (if you have no extra hand available, use someone else's.) Coat evenly but do try to avoid an absolute drenching.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place a single layer of bread cubes on a baking sheet and pop into the oven on the upper rack. Peek into oven at around 7 to 8 minutes into the process, shake and turn cubes. Remove from oven when cubes have become golden brown and therefore have officially attained crouton status*.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*To my mind, croutons should be very much like Lou Grant from The Mary Tyler Moore Show-- hard, crusty exterior, but soft and warm on the inside. They should, however, not smell strongly of bourbon in the middle of the afternoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To Make the Dressing:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8312\" title=\"anchovy and garlic\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/anchovy-and-garlic.jpg\" alt=\"anchovy and garlic\" width=\"350\" height=\"233\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Place kosher salt, anchovy, and garlic in the bottom of a wooden bowl. Mash these ingredients together with the aid of two forks until a rough paste is formed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Next, add mustard, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, and lemon juice. Trade in the two forks for a wire whisk. Whisk until well-blended.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Add coddled egg yolk to the mix and whisk with gusto for about one minute to allow the citric acid from the lemon to \"cook\" the yolk a little.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Slowly drizzle in olive oil from as great a height as you dare, for theatrical purposes. Pause occasionally to taste with a clean finger. Make dramatic noises as you do so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8313\" title=\"falling romaine leaves\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/falling-romaine-leaves.jpg\" alt=\"falling romaine leaves\" width=\"350\" height=\"233\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Let the lettuce leaves rain down into your dressing-drenched wooden bowl. Do not add any sound effects at this point. With the two forks you had earlier cast aside or with larger, more festive, salad utensils, begin to toss the salad. Sprinkle in a little cheese here, a little there. Hum as you sprinkle. Something lilting and hopeful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Add your croutons, tossing and humming all the more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Now add cracked black pepper to finish both the tossing of your salad and the incessant humming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. If serving directly from the salad bowl, sprinkle with a bit more cheese to garnish, if serving individually, divide equally among chilled plates, then add more cheese. Whatever you do, serve and eat immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoy.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "I'm a sucker for a great Caesar salad. Call me old school, but there are few things that can beat it in my book. Garlicky, lemony, cheesy, and anchovy-y, if there is such a word. If there isn't, there should be.\r\n\r\nSadly, a great restaurant Caesar salad has eluded me in this city of ours.\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-8314\" title=\"caesar salad\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/caesar-salad.jpg\" alt=\"caesar salad\" width=\"350\" height=\"231\">I'm a sucker for a great Caesar salad. Call me old school, but there are few things that can beat it in my book. Garlicky, lemony, cheesy, and anchovy-y, if there is such a word. If there isn't, there should be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, a great restaurant Caesar salad has eluded me in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the possible exceptions of Zuni Café and Tadich Grill (both old school and old guard), I have been bitterly disappointed every time I order a Caesar salad in a restaurant. And the above venues merely create good salads, not, in my opinion, great ones. Yet I keep on ordering them everywhere I go. It's like forgetting the pain of childbirth or the tragedy of falling in love with a crazy sadist-- I fall blindly and hopefully back into bed with the salad section of the menu and think, \"This time, it's going to be good. This time I am going to find the one I've been waiting for all my life.\" Invariably, I am served a Romaine salad with either a flaccid, mayonnaise-like dressing, or an underdressed, uninspired one with croutons like ship biscuits that leaves me asking my server for a little extra lemon and another napkin with which I might dry my tears.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps I just live to be disappointed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then, when discussing the demise of this salad with a friend over a lunch that included a particularly sorry looking one, I understood what all of these salads were missing, good and bad:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Drama.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Caesar salad is a dish that cries out for table-side service. It is, in my opinion if not in fact, the ham actor of the salad world-- a fact none too surprising when one considers that it was first created in a pique of impromptu by Cesare Cardini, an Italian man living in the once-glamorous town Tijuana, Mexico. Fortunately for us, Cardini had the good sense (or delicious folly, depending on your point of view) to seek out his fame and fortune in Hollywood, dressing recipe in hand, where the salad soon became a favorite among the local movie stars and luncheon élite. Cesare's salad soon evolved into Caesar's salad and, somewhere along the way, the apostrophe \"s\" was lost, and Caesar salads were being dramatically created in front of and for delighted diners in leather banquetted dining rooms and Danish Modern living rooms across the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, Cesare's salad is going the way of Banana's Foster, Cherries Jubilee, and the dodo, thanks to the demise of table side service. There is little room in most restaurants today to manoeuver the necessary salad carts, and diners (with the possible exception of brief fads like the Benihana's craze of the 70's, and eating at chef's tables in the 90's) seem less interested in having a server who entertains. Lastly, and perhaps most sadly of all, those venues who do still provide table side cooking are often so old-fashioned and unchanging that they have become a sort of dwindling, petrified forest. And those diners who habituate them are either equally as fossilized or, at best, there solely for kitsch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So what can one do?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I, for one, have started making my own damned Caesar salads. Or Cesare salads, as I prefer now to call them. I can make them as obscenely garlicky as I like and can toss them as high and dramatically as my ceiling and physical abilities allow. I'm a professional waiter, after all, and one with a strong dramatic bent. Just ask anyone. Just don't ask me to make one for you at my restaurant-- there is no way in hell I could ever get that rolling cart past the drunken cougars hovering at the bar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lyle's Muy Fuerte Cesare's Salad:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 2 to 4\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At my birthday party last summer, I had decided that my own contribution to the buffet would be my favorite old-school salad, since I was now, officially (according to some people) old. It was then that I realized that I had never actually made one before. The one's I had known and loved were always made for me by people who understand gusto like my friend Shan or my ex-boyfriend Paul, who was about as theatrically dramatic as they come.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I confessed this salad-tossing inexperience to my friend Lyle, he told me he would walk me through the entire process. Being my birthday, I let him take over, while I poured myself another glass of wine and watched him do all the work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a recipe \u003cem>muy fuerte\u003c/em>-- extra garlic, extra anchovy, extra everything. Brash and unsubtle. In other words, just the way I like it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I would suggest preparing this dish with at least one other person in the room when you first try it. Talk the entire time you are mashing, whisking, and tossing. Remember: you are the entertainment. If you don't have anyone on hand to chat with, I suggest, chatting up your pet. If you have no pet, bring a houseplant into your kitchen and talk to that. If you are lacking a house plant, you are more than likely not the type of person who would ever make a Caesar salad and are therefore not reading this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two heads of Romaine lettuce, well washed, outer leaves removed, and torn into bite-sized pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 1/3 cup Parmesan cheese. Please use the good stuff. Nothing that comes out of a shaker will do no matter how good a deal you got with that double coupon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whole anchovies for garnish are entirely optional.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the Dressing:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 coddled egg. Yolk only.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 anchovy filets (spanish, preferably)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cloves garlic, crushed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A pinch of coarse salt (kosher is excellent)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The juice of one half lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 to 5 drops Worcestershire sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 to 5 drops Tabasco sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 tablespoons (approximate) of extra virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coarsely ground black pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Croutons:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For two cups of croutons (it is always a good idea to make extra):\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups of day-old bread (french, sour, white-- take your pick), dried out a touch and cut into 3/4\" cubes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter, melted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>a heavy pinch of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To Coddle an Egg:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coddling the egg yolk lends a richer texture to the dressing by thickening it slightly, in case you were wondering. If you want a better scientific understanding of this process, ask a scientist. I prefer to live in ignorance and call it a miracle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Bring your egg (which should be very fresh) to room temperature by placing it in a heat-proof glass of warm water for a few minutes. When this temperature has been achieved, drain water and cover egg with boiling water. Let stand for exactly one minute. Drain. Run cold water over egg. Egg has now been thoroughly traumatized and is now ready for use in your dressing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Making the Croutons:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat oven to 375F. Drizzle butter/oil mixture over bread cubes while tossing cubes with your free hand (if you have no extra hand available, use someone else's.) Coat evenly but do try to avoid an absolute drenching.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place a single layer of bread cubes on a baking sheet and pop into the oven on the upper rack. Peek into oven at around 7 to 8 minutes into the process, shake and turn cubes. Remove from oven when cubes have become golden brown and therefore have officially attained crouton status*.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*To my mind, croutons should be very much like Lou Grant from The Mary Tyler Moore Show-- hard, crusty exterior, but soft and warm on the inside. They should, however, not smell strongly of bourbon in the middle of the afternoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To Make the Dressing:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8312\" title=\"anchovy and garlic\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/anchovy-and-garlic.jpg\" alt=\"anchovy and garlic\" width=\"350\" height=\"233\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Place kosher salt, anchovy, and garlic in the bottom of a wooden bowl. Mash these ingredients together with the aid of two forks until a rough paste is formed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Next, add mustard, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, and lemon juice. Trade in the two forks for a wire whisk. Whisk until well-blended.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Add coddled egg yolk to the mix and whisk with gusto for about one minute to allow the citric acid from the lemon to \"cook\" the yolk a little.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Slowly drizzle in olive oil from as great a height as you dare, for theatrical purposes. Pause occasionally to taste with a clean finger. Make dramatic noises as you do so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8313\" title=\"falling romaine leaves\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/falling-romaine-leaves.jpg\" alt=\"falling romaine leaves\" width=\"350\" height=\"233\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Let the lettuce leaves rain down into your dressing-drenched wooden bowl. Do not add any sound effects at this point. With the two forks you had earlier cast aside or with larger, more festive, salad utensils, begin to toss the salad. Sprinkle in a little cheese here, a little there. Hum as you sprinkle. Something lilting and hopeful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Add your croutons, tossing and humming all the more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Now add cracked black pepper to finish both the tossing of your salad and the incessant humming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. If serving directly from the salad bowl, sprinkle with a bit more cheese to garnish, if serving individually, divide equally among chilled plates, then add more cheese. Whatever you do, serve and eat immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/beer-battered-lemon.jpg\" alt=\"beer battered lemon\" title=\"beer battered lemon\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6961\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For years I searched for the ideal fish and chips. Journeying 45 minutes away to a restaurant a friend of a friend swore by, or hanging out in a shop decorated with sticky vinyl chairs and soggy fries, I was on a mission. My hunt for the ideal fish and chips -- crispy on the outside, steaming hot and tender inside -- became increasingly elusive. Sure, I would occasionally stumble upon a place with decent and sometimes quite good platters of fish, but these were far and few between and hardly ever in the Bay Area. The sad truth is that there is more awful fish and chips out there than not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now I suppose I should explain that when I want fried fish I'm looking for the beer-battered variety. The type you would find in a first-rate British pub (although I've eaten bad fish and chips in the UK as well, so the problem isn't just here). I want my teeth to bite into a perfectly crunchy coating that gives way to a delicate flaky center. I want to taste the beer in the batter and I don't want my mouth to feel like an oil slick. Bread crumbs are not an option and curses on whoever tries to pawn off breaded fish with potatoes as fish and chips. Here is an example of the horrors that lie in wait.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/bad-fish-and-chips.jpg\" alt=\"bad fish and chips\" title=\"bad fish and chips\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6959\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So a few years ago -- after being served the soggiest bread-crumby fish I had ever encountered (and paying close to $15 for it) -- I decided to make my own fish and chips. I was happily surprised to find that making truly decent battered fish is both incredibly easy and straightforward. And, as is the case with all home cooking, you can control the results: want it really crispy, fry a little longer; interested in smaller pieces, cut them up; in the mood for a hearty batter, use dark beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another benefit to making your own fish and chips is that you can easily batter and fry up some lemon slices to go with it. These are a heavenly way to garnish the dish and after trying them at your own fish fry, you'll never want to eat fish and chips without them again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you are lucky enough to live near a restaurant with wonderful fish and chips, I am happy for you. But if you're like me and you don't, I am here to tell you that you can make homemade fish and chips that will taste better than almost anything you can buy in a restaurant or pub, and cost a fraction of the price.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipe I use is tried and true. I've made it more times than I can count, and it has never failed me. Before you start, however, there are a few basic tenets to consider concerning frying the fish and also making and eating it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/fish-fry.jpg\" alt=\"fish fry\" title=\"fish fry\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6962\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Basic frying rules to get under your belt:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. If you don't have a fryer (which includes most of us), use a non-reactive deep pan that can hold enough oil to submerge at least half the fish. I use my trusty large cast iron pan and it works great.\u003cbr>\n2. Use an oil with a high burn rate. I like to use canola oil. Don't use olive oil as it will scorch and flavor the fish.\u003cbr>\n3. Do not overheat your oil or it will burn the batter. I usually start the pan on medium high and slowly work my way down to medium and then medium low as the pan continues to heat the longer you fry.\u003cbr>\n4. Do not underheat your oil. Frying your fish in underheated oil leads to the batter sliding off the fish. Not a pretty sight. I'm not sure what the actual temperature of the oil should be, as I don't have a thermometer, but you can test the oil by placing a small teaspoon of batter in the oil. If it doesn't sink to the bottom of the pan and sizzles nicely, you should be good to go.\u003cbr>\n5. Use a fry screen if you have one as it will help reduce splatter and keep your stove from becoming a complete mess.\u003cbr>\n6. Be sure to gently lay the fish into the oil so you don't spatter it onto your hand (which really hurts!).\u003cbr>\nIf you follow these rules, you should be in good frying shape.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>General rules for making and eating fish and chips:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Dark beer gives the dish a more complex flavor while lighter beers are more subtle. Choose whichever you prefer.\u003cbr>\n2. Look for meaty white fish. Please don’'t use Atlantic cod as it's endangered and, according to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx\">Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch list\u003c/a>, we're \"fishing the last 10% of this population.\" Other great choices are Alaskan Pacific Cod and Pacific Halibut. I've also made it with catfish, which worked well.\u003cbr>\n3. Try to use fresh fish instead of thawed frozen, which tends to taste dry.\u003cbr>\n4. Pat the fish dry with a paper towel before seasoning and dipping in the batter.\u003cbr>\n5. Serve with malt vinegar, which perfectly accents the beer batter. If you don't have any, try fresh lemon juice.\u003cbr>\n6. Consider making your own tartar sauce by mixing good mayonnaise, chopped up sweet pickles, and a little horseradish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the chips, I bake them. Yes... you heard me. I bake them. They come out crispy and seasoned perfectly. Best of all, my potatoes are not reduced to the sad fate of sogginess which often happens with home fried fries. Here's my \u003ca href=\"http://deniseskitchen.wordpress.com/2008/04/09/crispy-homemade-fries/\">recipe\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/beer-battered-fish-with-lemons.jpg\" alt=\"beer battered fish with lemons\" title=\"beer battered fish with lemons\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6964\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Homemade Beer Battered Fish\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nServes:\u003c/strong> 4 people\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 - 8 medium-sized pieces of white fish\u003cbr>\n1 cup all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1 cup beer\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp black pepper\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon dried thyme\u003cbr>\nEnough oil to fill half a large non-reactive pan (about 1 cup)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Pat fish dry and lay on a plate. Season with salt and pepper.\u003cbr>\n2. Heat oil in pan.\u003cbr>\n3. While oil is heating, mix flour, beer, salt, pepper and thyme in a large bowl. Whisk until everything is fully incorporated. The mixture should reach the consistency of pancake batter. Add more beer if necessary.\u003cbr>\n4. When oil is hot (test using method #4 in the frying rules section above), coat two pieces of fish in batter and then gently lie them in the oil. Be sure to fully coat the fish and be careful not to splash oil on yourself.\u003cbr>\n5. Cook fish until it is crispy and a rich brown color. Pick up each piece of fish with a fork and gently turn them over. Cook on the other side until done.\u003cbr>\n6. Drain fish on a plate lined with paper towels and fry the remaining fish pieces.\u003cbr>\n7. Serve hot with malt vinegar and battered lemon slices (recipe below).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beer Battered Lemon Slices\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> 6 slices\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 lemon cut into 1/4-inch slices (not including the ends)\u003cbr>\nLeftover batter and oil from your beer battered fish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Remove seeds from lemon slices.\u003cbr>\n2. Coat slices with batter.\u003cbr>\n3. Lay lemon slices in the hot cooking oil and brown on each side.\u003cbr>\n4. Remove from pan and serve with fish.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "So a few years ago -- after being served the soggiest bread-crumby fish I had ever encountered (and paying close to $15 for it) -- I decided to make my own fish and chips. I was happily surprised to find that making truly decent battered fish is both incredibly easy and straightforward. And, as is the case with all home cooking, you can control the results: want it really crispy, fry a little longer; interested in smaller pieces, cut them up; in the mood for a hearty batter, use dark beer.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/beer-battered-lemon.jpg\" alt=\"beer battered lemon\" title=\"beer battered lemon\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6961\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For years I searched for the ideal fish and chips. Journeying 45 minutes away to a restaurant a friend of a friend swore by, or hanging out in a shop decorated with sticky vinyl chairs and soggy fries, I was on a mission. My hunt for the ideal fish and chips -- crispy on the outside, steaming hot and tender inside -- became increasingly elusive. Sure, I would occasionally stumble upon a place with decent and sometimes quite good platters of fish, but these were far and few between and hardly ever in the Bay Area. The sad truth is that there is more awful fish and chips out there than not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now I suppose I should explain that when I want fried fish I'm looking for the beer-battered variety. The type you would find in a first-rate British pub (although I've eaten bad fish and chips in the UK as well, so the problem isn't just here). I want my teeth to bite into a perfectly crunchy coating that gives way to a delicate flaky center. I want to taste the beer in the batter and I don't want my mouth to feel like an oil slick. Bread crumbs are not an option and curses on whoever tries to pawn off breaded fish with potatoes as fish and chips. Here is an example of the horrors that lie in wait.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/bad-fish-and-chips.jpg\" alt=\"bad fish and chips\" title=\"bad fish and chips\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6959\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So a few years ago -- after being served the soggiest bread-crumby fish I had ever encountered (and paying close to $15 for it) -- I decided to make my own fish and chips. I was happily surprised to find that making truly decent battered fish is both incredibly easy and straightforward. And, as is the case with all home cooking, you can control the results: want it really crispy, fry a little longer; interested in smaller pieces, cut them up; in the mood for a hearty batter, use dark beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another benefit to making your own fish and chips is that you can easily batter and fry up some lemon slices to go with it. These are a heavenly way to garnish the dish and after trying them at your own fish fry, you'll never want to eat fish and chips without them again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you are lucky enough to live near a restaurant with wonderful fish and chips, I am happy for you. But if you're like me and you don't, I am here to tell you that you can make homemade fish and chips that will taste better than almost anything you can buy in a restaurant or pub, and cost a fraction of the price.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipe I use is tried and true. I've made it more times than I can count, and it has never failed me. Before you start, however, there are a few basic tenets to consider concerning frying the fish and also making and eating it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/fish-fry.jpg\" alt=\"fish fry\" title=\"fish fry\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6962\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Basic frying rules to get under your belt:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. If you don't have a fryer (which includes most of us), use a non-reactive deep pan that can hold enough oil to submerge at least half the fish. I use my trusty large cast iron pan and it works great.\u003cbr>\n2. Use an oil with a high burn rate. I like to use canola oil. Don't use olive oil as it will scorch and flavor the fish.\u003cbr>\n3. Do not overheat your oil or it will burn the batter. I usually start the pan on medium high and slowly work my way down to medium and then medium low as the pan continues to heat the longer you fry.\u003cbr>\n4. Do not underheat your oil. Frying your fish in underheated oil leads to the batter sliding off the fish. Not a pretty sight. I'm not sure what the actual temperature of the oil should be, as I don't have a thermometer, but you can test the oil by placing a small teaspoon of batter in the oil. If it doesn't sink to the bottom of the pan and sizzles nicely, you should be good to go.\u003cbr>\n5. Use a fry screen if you have one as it will help reduce splatter and keep your stove from becoming a complete mess.\u003cbr>\n6. Be sure to gently lay the fish into the oil so you don't spatter it onto your hand (which really hurts!).\u003cbr>\nIf you follow these rules, you should be in good frying shape.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>General rules for making and eating fish and chips:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Dark beer gives the dish a more complex flavor while lighter beers are more subtle. Choose whichever you prefer.\u003cbr>\n2. Look for meaty white fish. Please don’'t use Atlantic cod as it's endangered and, according to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx\">Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch list\u003c/a>, we're \"fishing the last 10% of this population.\" Other great choices are Alaskan Pacific Cod and Pacific Halibut. I've also made it with catfish, which worked well.\u003cbr>\n3. Try to use fresh fish instead of thawed frozen, which tends to taste dry.\u003cbr>\n4. Pat the fish dry with a paper towel before seasoning and dipping in the batter.\u003cbr>\n5. Serve with malt vinegar, which perfectly accents the beer batter. If you don't have any, try fresh lemon juice.\u003cbr>\n6. Consider making your own tartar sauce by mixing good mayonnaise, chopped up sweet pickles, and a little horseradish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the chips, I bake them. Yes... you heard me. I bake them. They come out crispy and seasoned perfectly. Best of all, my potatoes are not reduced to the sad fate of sogginess which often happens with home fried fries. Here's my \u003ca href=\"http://deniseskitchen.wordpress.com/2008/04/09/crispy-homemade-fries/\">recipe\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/beer-battered-fish-with-lemons.jpg\" alt=\"beer battered fish with lemons\" title=\"beer battered fish with lemons\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6964\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Homemade Beer Battered Fish\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nServes:\u003c/strong> 4 people\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 - 8 medium-sized pieces of white fish\u003cbr>\n1 cup all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1 cup beer\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp black pepper\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon dried thyme\u003cbr>\nEnough oil to fill half a large non-reactive pan (about 1 cup)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Pat fish dry and lay on a plate. Season with salt and pepper.\u003cbr>\n2. Heat oil in pan.\u003cbr>\n3. While oil is heating, mix flour, beer, salt, pepper and thyme in a large bowl. Whisk until everything is fully incorporated. The mixture should reach the consistency of pancake batter. Add more beer if necessary.\u003cbr>\n4. When oil is hot (test using method #4 in the frying rules section above), coat two pieces of fish in batter and then gently lie them in the oil. Be sure to fully coat the fish and be careful not to splash oil on yourself.\u003cbr>\n5. Cook fish until it is crispy and a rich brown color. Pick up each piece of fish with a fork and gently turn them over. Cook on the other side until done.\u003cbr>\n6. Drain fish on a plate lined with paper towels and fry the remaining fish pieces.\u003cbr>\n7. Serve hot with malt vinegar and battered lemon slices (recipe below).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beer Battered Lemon Slices\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> 6 slices\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 lemon cut into 1/4-inch slices (not including the ends)\u003cbr>\nLeftover batter and oil from your beer battered fish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Remove seeds from lemon slices.\u003cbr>\n2. Coat slices with batter.\u003cbr>\n3. Lay lemon slices in the hot cooking oil and brown on each side.\u003cbr>\n4. Remove from pan and serve with fish.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Processing the pig: a weekly ritual at Oliveto",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/swine500.jpg\" alt=\"Swine diagram\" title=\"Swine diagram\" width=\"500\" height=\"348\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6890\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This swine diagram in the Oliveto back office pretty much sums it up.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next to his desk in the Oliveto back office, Chef Paul Canales has taped a diagram that captures the restaurant's reverence for pork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The diagram shows a hog divided into sections, such as the shoulder and the leg. All of these sections are labeled \"Good,\" except for the belly. It is labeled \"Real Good.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pork is a constant at Oliveto. The menu revolves around it. On any given day, prep chefs can be seen breaking down a hog into various cuts -- shoulder, loin, leg -- and then processing them into porchetta, pancetta, scallopine, sausage or salumi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For an uninitiated guest to the kitchen, it can be startling to see a pig's head simmering in a stock pot or a chef hefting a hand saw on one half of a 200-pound carcass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/paul-and-kelsey500.jpg\" alt=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales seasons pork cutlets while Sous Chef Kelsey Bergstrom cuts into a pork leg with a hand saw.\" title=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales seasons pork cutlets while Sous Chef Kelsey Bergstrom cuts into a pork leg with a hand saw.\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6887\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oliveto Chef Paul Canales seasons pork cutlets while Sous Chef Kelsey Bergstrom cuts into a pork leg with a hand saw.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet if you want restaurants to be respectful of the meat they serve, extracting every ounce of flavor and using all parts of the animal, then these scenes shouldn't shock you. Many chefs run a far tidier kitchen by relying on industrial meat processors to do their butchery, delivering meat cuts that are shrink-wrapped and ready to cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oliveto's experiments with whole-hog cookery started more than a decade ago, when the restaurant, under owner Bob Klein and former Executive Chef Paul Bertolli, developed a relationship with Paul Willis and Bill Niman, founders of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nimanranch.com/index.aspx%20\">Niman Ranch\u003c/a> meat company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Willis, a hog farmer from Iowa, met Niman in the mid-1990s, as industrial hog farming was transforming the landscape of the Midwest and North Carolina. Farmers such as Willis were trying to stay in business by marketing the quality and benefits of the pork that was raised without hormones and antibiotics, with the pigs allowed to range freely. That led to a partnership with Niman and the birth of Niman Ranch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/paul-willis-hog-500.jpg\" alt=\"Paul Watson, seen left, heads a network of 500 small farmers who supply pork to Niman Ranch.\" title=\"Paul Watson, seen left, heads a network of 500 small farmers who supply pork to Niman Ranch.\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6888\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Paul Watson, seen left, heads a network of 500 small farmers who supply pork to Niman Ranch.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Willis supervises a network of 500 farmers who produce pork for more than 1,200 restaurants, ranging from chains such as Chipotle Mexican Grill to high-end restaurants such as Oliveto. His success has inspired many other farmers, including some here in California, to grow their own pigs and market them directly to restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every Tuesday at Oliveto, a truck pulls up in the garage of the building, delivering a split carcass pig, usually from Willis. For the last several months it has been my job, along with Oliveto butcher Pablo \"Tigre\" Mendoza Gavito, to heft and these split carcasses (100 pounds) into the basement meat locker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/meat-locker500.jpg\" alt=\"meat locker\" title=\"meat locker\" width=\"500\" height=\"370\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6919\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hanging meat from hooks can be dangerous, as former Oliveto Sous Chef Curtis Di Fede demonstrates.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This can be a dangerous job. Pigs are slippery and tricky to hoist. Usually Tigre would lift from the bottom, using a small meat hook to grab hold of the carcass. My job was to grab the hind leg, attach a meat hook to the trotter, and hang the hooked carcass on the meat locker rod while Tigre hefted it from the bottom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time we attempted this together, I inadvertently left my pinkie finger in between the hook and rod. My finger was nearly crushed as the full weight of the carcass came down on the rod. Luckily, I pulled my pinkie out at the last split second.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the pigs are in the locker, the chefs assemble a game plan for breaking them down and preparing dishes. That plan changes weekly, depending on the whims of the chefs and what dishes they haven't recently prepared.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Technically, you want to use the loins and legs first, since those are most subject to spoilage,\" says Canales, who replaced Bertolli as executive chef in 2004. \"The shoulders will last the longest.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why do the shoulders last longer? As Canales notes, shoulders and other heavily used muscles tend to have high levels of myoglobin, a protein that causes the red color in meat. Birds such as ducks and pigeons have high levels of myoglobin, because they fly such long distances. As a result, ducks and pigeons resist spoilage in a refrigerator longer than chickens do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a hog is delivered, Tigre tends to get the assignment of breaking down the hog into its component pieces. He also can be regularly seen trimming up the loin for one of the restaurant's prized dishes, the spit-roasted porchetta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/tigre-with-sausage500.jpg\" alt=\" Oliveto butcher Pablo Tigre Mendoza Gavito prepares sausage in the back kitchen.\" title=\" Oliveto butcher Pablo Tigre Mendoza Gavito prepares sausage in the back kitchen.\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6885\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oliveto butcher Pablo \"Tigre\" Mendoza Gavito prepares sausage in the back kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Porchetta is pork rolled with spices and salt into a log and then set on a rotisserie. As it roasts over hot coals, the fat renders out of the meat and keeps it juicy and savory. Slices of this log are then served with an accompaniment, such as a diavolo sauce made with chili peppers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By contrast, Oliveto generally takes cuts from the leg and turns them into scallopine or salami. Scraps from the leg are ground in a meat grinder and used in a ragu, a pasta sauce. The shoulders, meanwhile, are generally reserved for sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you can imagine, all this cutting and trimming results in numerous scraps that some butchers might be tempted to throw away. At Oliveto, all these scraps are further trimmed to separate meat from fat. The meat pieces are cooked down into \u003ca href=\"http://www.sacbee.com/static/weblogs/the_chef_apprentice/2009/05/paul-canales-recipe-for-a-sugo.html/022075.html?mi_rss=The%20Chef%20Apprentice\">sugo\u003c/a>, a heavily reduced pork stock, similar to a demi-glace. The rest might be used for a ciccioli, an intensely rich concoction that is made by cooking down fatty pieces of pork, compressing them and drying them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Outside of the pigs it breaks down, Oliveto also receives special orders of pork, particularly pork bellies for pancetta. These bellies arrive every other week from \u003ca href=\"http://www.heritagefoodsusa.com\">Heritage Foods USA\u003c/a>, which originated as the online marketing arm for the Slow Food movement. Now a private company, it sells meat from small farmers who are raising and preserving heritage breeds of pigs, turkeys and other animals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I try to support them, because they are trying to do the right thing, by these animal and the small farmers,\" says Canales. \"These guys have no outlet. Either they find a niche market, or they get forced out by Tyson or the big outfits.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/stuwithbelly300.jpg\" alt=\"Stuart trims fat off of a pork belly for pancetta.\" title=\"Stuart trims fat off of a pork belly for pancetta.\" width=\"300\" height=\"364\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6889\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The author trims fat off of a pork belly for pancetta.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While apprenticing at Oliveto, I had a privilege to trim and cure pancetta a few times. It is not terribly hard, as \u003ca href=\"http://blog.ruhlman.com/ruhlmancom/2009/06/home-cured-pancetta.html\">Michael Ruhlman demonstrates\u003c/a> in this post. The slabs of pork are seasoned with salt, curing salt and peppercorns, and then hung in cold storage for a week or so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time it is dried, thin sliced and then served, it is belly, belly good. (Sorry, I couldn't resist.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Oliveto, the true test of its pork obsession comes in February, with the annual Whole Hog dinners. The menu offers nearly every part of the animal, from the brains down to the trotters. Last year's \u003ca href=\"http://www.oliveto.com/wholehog08.pdf%20\">menu\u003c/a>(pdf) featured a wild boar scaloppine alla Milanese, a spaghetti with pork cracklings and a spit-roasted pork belly with Sicilian chestnut honey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/melon-and-coppa500.jpg\" alt=\"A basic summer dish at Oliveto -- cured coppa and melon. \" title=\"A basic summer dish at Oliveto -- cured coppa and melon. \" width=\"500\" height=\"193\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6886\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A basic summer dish at Oliveto - cured coppa and melon.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparations for these dinners are an all-year affair, since some types of meats - such as prosciutto and coppa - take many months to cure and dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I missed this year's Whole Hog Dinner, but plan to be there in February. After six months of trimming, slicing, browning, simmering and curing pork, I feel a closer connection to this noble animal, along with an awareness of how much more there is to learn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stuart Leavenworth has concluded his apprenticeship at Oliveto, and this is his final post for Bay Area Bites. On Monday, he starts a new job as The Sacramento Bee's editorial page editor. You can contact him at sleavenworth@sacbee.com.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Pork is a constant at Oliveto. The menu revolves around it. On any given day, prep chefs can be seen breaking down a hog into various cuts --shoulder, loin, leg -- and then processing them into porchetta, pancetta, scallopine, sausage or salumi.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/swine500.jpg\" alt=\"Swine diagram\" title=\"Swine diagram\" width=\"500\" height=\"348\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6890\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This swine diagram in the Oliveto back office pretty much sums it up.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next to his desk in the Oliveto back office, Chef Paul Canales has taped a diagram that captures the restaurant's reverence for pork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The diagram shows a hog divided into sections, such as the shoulder and the leg. All of these sections are labeled \"Good,\" except for the belly. It is labeled \"Real Good.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pork is a constant at Oliveto. The menu revolves around it. On any given day, prep chefs can be seen breaking down a hog into various cuts -- shoulder, loin, leg -- and then processing them into porchetta, pancetta, scallopine, sausage or salumi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For an uninitiated guest to the kitchen, it can be startling to see a pig's head simmering in a stock pot or a chef hefting a hand saw on one half of a 200-pound carcass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/paul-and-kelsey500.jpg\" alt=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales seasons pork cutlets while Sous Chef Kelsey Bergstrom cuts into a pork leg with a hand saw.\" title=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales seasons pork cutlets while Sous Chef Kelsey Bergstrom cuts into a pork leg with a hand saw.\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6887\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oliveto Chef Paul Canales seasons pork cutlets while Sous Chef Kelsey Bergstrom cuts into a pork leg with a hand saw.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet if you want restaurants to be respectful of the meat they serve, extracting every ounce of flavor and using all parts of the animal, then these scenes shouldn't shock you. Many chefs run a far tidier kitchen by relying on industrial meat processors to do their butchery, delivering meat cuts that are shrink-wrapped and ready to cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oliveto's experiments with whole-hog cookery started more than a decade ago, when the restaurant, under owner Bob Klein and former Executive Chef Paul Bertolli, developed a relationship with Paul Willis and Bill Niman, founders of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nimanranch.com/index.aspx%20\">Niman Ranch\u003c/a> meat company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Willis, a hog farmer from Iowa, met Niman in the mid-1990s, as industrial hog farming was transforming the landscape of the Midwest and North Carolina. Farmers such as Willis were trying to stay in business by marketing the quality and benefits of the pork that was raised without hormones and antibiotics, with the pigs allowed to range freely. That led to a partnership with Niman and the birth of Niman Ranch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/paul-willis-hog-500.jpg\" alt=\"Paul Watson, seen left, heads a network of 500 small farmers who supply pork to Niman Ranch.\" title=\"Paul Watson, seen left, heads a network of 500 small farmers who supply pork to Niman Ranch.\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6888\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Paul Watson, seen left, heads a network of 500 small farmers who supply pork to Niman Ranch.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Willis supervises a network of 500 farmers who produce pork for more than 1,200 restaurants, ranging from chains such as Chipotle Mexican Grill to high-end restaurants such as Oliveto. His success has inspired many other farmers, including some here in California, to grow their own pigs and market them directly to restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every Tuesday at Oliveto, a truck pulls up in the garage of the building, delivering a split carcass pig, usually from Willis. For the last several months it has been my job, along with Oliveto butcher Pablo \"Tigre\" Mendoza Gavito, to heft and these split carcasses (100 pounds) into the basement meat locker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/meat-locker500.jpg\" alt=\"meat locker\" title=\"meat locker\" width=\"500\" height=\"370\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6919\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hanging meat from hooks can be dangerous, as former Oliveto Sous Chef Curtis Di Fede demonstrates.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This can be a dangerous job. Pigs are slippery and tricky to hoist. Usually Tigre would lift from the bottom, using a small meat hook to grab hold of the carcass. My job was to grab the hind leg, attach a meat hook to the trotter, and hang the hooked carcass on the meat locker rod while Tigre hefted it from the bottom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time we attempted this together, I inadvertently left my pinkie finger in between the hook and rod. My finger was nearly crushed as the full weight of the carcass came down on the rod. Luckily, I pulled my pinkie out at the last split second.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the pigs are in the locker, the chefs assemble a game plan for breaking them down and preparing dishes. That plan changes weekly, depending on the whims of the chefs and what dishes they haven't recently prepared.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Technically, you want to use the loins and legs first, since those are most subject to spoilage,\" says Canales, who replaced Bertolli as executive chef in 2004. \"The shoulders will last the longest.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why do the shoulders last longer? As Canales notes, shoulders and other heavily used muscles tend to have high levels of myoglobin, a protein that causes the red color in meat. Birds such as ducks and pigeons have high levels of myoglobin, because they fly such long distances. As a result, ducks and pigeons resist spoilage in a refrigerator longer than chickens do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a hog is delivered, Tigre tends to get the assignment of breaking down the hog into its component pieces. He also can be regularly seen trimming up the loin for one of the restaurant's prized dishes, the spit-roasted porchetta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/tigre-with-sausage500.jpg\" alt=\" Oliveto butcher Pablo Tigre Mendoza Gavito prepares sausage in the back kitchen.\" title=\" Oliveto butcher Pablo Tigre Mendoza Gavito prepares sausage in the back kitchen.\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6885\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oliveto butcher Pablo \"Tigre\" Mendoza Gavito prepares sausage in the back kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Porchetta is pork rolled with spices and salt into a log and then set on a rotisserie. As it roasts over hot coals, the fat renders out of the meat and keeps it juicy and savory. Slices of this log are then served with an accompaniment, such as a diavolo sauce made with chili peppers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By contrast, Oliveto generally takes cuts from the leg and turns them into scallopine or salami. Scraps from the leg are ground in a meat grinder and used in a ragu, a pasta sauce. The shoulders, meanwhile, are generally reserved for sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you can imagine, all this cutting and trimming results in numerous scraps that some butchers might be tempted to throw away. At Oliveto, all these scraps are further trimmed to separate meat from fat. The meat pieces are cooked down into \u003ca href=\"http://www.sacbee.com/static/weblogs/the_chef_apprentice/2009/05/paul-canales-recipe-for-a-sugo.html/022075.html?mi_rss=The%20Chef%20Apprentice\">sugo\u003c/a>, a heavily reduced pork stock, similar to a demi-glace. The rest might be used for a ciccioli, an intensely rich concoction that is made by cooking down fatty pieces of pork, compressing them and drying them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Outside of the pigs it breaks down, Oliveto also receives special orders of pork, particularly pork bellies for pancetta. These bellies arrive every other week from \u003ca href=\"http://www.heritagefoodsusa.com\">Heritage Foods USA\u003c/a>, which originated as the online marketing arm for the Slow Food movement. Now a private company, it sells meat from small farmers who are raising and preserving heritage breeds of pigs, turkeys and other animals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I try to support them, because they are trying to do the right thing, by these animal and the small farmers,\" says Canales. \"These guys have no outlet. Either they find a niche market, or they get forced out by Tyson or the big outfits.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/stuwithbelly300.jpg\" alt=\"Stuart trims fat off of a pork belly for pancetta.\" title=\"Stuart trims fat off of a pork belly for pancetta.\" width=\"300\" height=\"364\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6889\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The author trims fat off of a pork belly for pancetta.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While apprenticing at Oliveto, I had a privilege to trim and cure pancetta a few times. It is not terribly hard, as \u003ca href=\"http://blog.ruhlman.com/ruhlmancom/2009/06/home-cured-pancetta.html\">Michael Ruhlman demonstrates\u003c/a> in this post. The slabs of pork are seasoned with salt, curing salt and peppercorns, and then hung in cold storage for a week or so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time it is dried, thin sliced and then served, it is belly, belly good. (Sorry, I couldn't resist.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Oliveto, the true test of its pork obsession comes in February, with the annual Whole Hog dinners. The menu offers nearly every part of the animal, from the brains down to the trotters. Last year's \u003ca href=\"http://www.oliveto.com/wholehog08.pdf%20\">menu\u003c/a>(pdf) featured a wild boar scaloppine alla Milanese, a spaghetti with pork cracklings and a spit-roasted pork belly with Sicilian chestnut honey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/melon-and-coppa500.jpg\" alt=\"A basic summer dish at Oliveto -- cured coppa and melon. \" title=\"A basic summer dish at Oliveto -- cured coppa and melon. \" width=\"500\" height=\"193\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6886\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A basic summer dish at Oliveto - cured coppa and melon.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparations for these dinners are an all-year affair, since some types of meats - such as prosciutto and coppa - take many months to cure and dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I missed this year's Whole Hog Dinner, but plan to be there in February. After six months of trimming, slicing, browning, simmering and curing pork, I feel a closer connection to this noble animal, along with an awareness of how much more there is to learn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stuart Leavenworth has concluded his apprenticeship at Oliveto, and this is his final post for Bay Area Bites. On Monday, he starts a new job as The Sacramento Bee's editorial page editor. You can contact him at sleavenworth@sacbee.com.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Taking Time in the Kitchen: Down to the Brown",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/brown_butter.jpg\" alt=\"brown butter\" title=\"brown butter\" width=\"500\" height=\"253\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6785\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyday cooking means taking lots of shortcuts. For the most flavor with the shortest amount of time in the kitchen, especially when you've splurged or gone out of your way to buy good ingredients, it's a delicate balance between paying attention to the details and just trying to get dinner on the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We've all done it -- cooked tomatoes with their peels and seeds, served pureed soup unstrained, fried the potatoes just once, not twice. It's healthier, right?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a cook, I embrace shortcuts. But as a cooking teacher, I always try to explain to my classes why, over the centuries and millennia, certain techniques have developed. Sometimes it's cultural. Usually, though, there's a very real change in texture or flavor, nutrition or shelf-life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two simple techniques increasingly omitted from recipes now are salting eggplant and browning butter. Neither are absolutely necessary. Both, however, are worth doing every once in a while to remind yourself just what amazing flavors you can create in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>BROWNED BUTTER\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/brown_butter3.jpg\" alt=\"brown butter\" title=\"brown butter\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6789\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Simmering whole butter until all its water bubbles off and its protein solids separate accomplishes several key improvements. It allows the butter to sit at (tropical) room temperature much longer without turning rancid. It significantly increases the butter's smoke point to allow high-heat cooking. And it transforms the milks sweet flavor, adding deep, nutty, caramel tones. Indians call it \u003cem>ghee\u003c/em>, while the French call it \u003cem>beurre noisette\u003c/em>, or hazelnut butter for its rich color and flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You need just five or ten minutes to make browned butter. Melt good-quality, unsalted butter in a small, heavy pan over medium heat. (A lighter colored pan will allow you to judge more easily the color of the butter as it cooks.) Continue cooking it through the foamy bubbling stage, while all the water evaporates off. Reduce the heat if you want to give yourself some extra buffer time, especially if this is your first time browning butter. As the bubbles subside, swirl the pan occasionally and keep an extra close eye on the butter. The protein solids will sink to the bottom. When they turn light brown, transfer the hot butter immediately to a heat-proof bowl. Be sure not to scorch the butter, as blackened protein will taste sharply acrid, not pleasantly nutty. It will darken a little more as it cools. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For frying or long storage, be sure to separate the milk solids: skim off any remaining foam and spoon or pour off the oil while still liquid, leaving behind the darkened protein at the bottom of the bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Browned butter can be used while still melted to saute or to garnish. It's excellent for vegetables like asparagus, broccoli, and green beans. If you're trying to use less butter, deepening its flavor will accentuate the effect from smaller amounts. For a super simple yet elegant entree, sear chicken breast, pork chops, or fish fillets in browned butter and then serve with fresh lemon wedges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let browned butter solidify and substitute it in baked recipes for extra delicate cookies and cakes. (Remember that less water means less gluten development in flour, so be sure to allow for some trial and error as you figure out the fulcrum point between flavor and structure.) Use it in rice pilaf to serve with full-flavored stews and roasts. Or simply offer it at the table in your regular butter dish and spread it on crusty bread or flaky biscuits for a flavor epiphany.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SALTING EGGPLANT\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/brown_eggplant.jpg\" alt=\"brown eggplant\" title=\"brown eggplant\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6784\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With ever smaller, younger and fresher vegetables making their way to our markets in the past decades, old rules have lost much of their imperative. Peeling, trimming, salting -- these were techniques required when vegetables were allowed to mature completely on the plant, transported long distances without the benefit of refrigeration, and served within days not weeks of harvest. Tender carrots no longer require peeling. Young celery stalks can be cooked with leaves. And most eggplants now, especially the narrow Asian varieties, are fine going straight from the cutting board the pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Occasionally, though, salting eggplant is critical and will remind you just why this vegetable has been embraced in classic dishes around the world. It's a hassle, but the extra step draws out bitter juices in older vegetables, whether those missed in the back corner of your garden or forgotten in the bottom of your refrigerator. More importantly, salting alters the cell structure of the vegetable's flesh, creating that famous silken texture while preventing excess absorption of oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To salt eggplant, halve, dice or slice it as needed. Sprinkle generous with kosher salt and set aside in a bowl or colander. To encourage the purging of juices, weight the eggplant. (The most effective way is to fill a zip bag with water and plop it on top of the pieces. The age-old method is a flat plate topped with a rock.) Leave the eggplant for 30 to 60 minutes. When you return and peek into the bowl, you'll see a surprising amount of dark brown liquid at the bottom. Rinse the eggplant quickly in cool water, drain well and then dry it by wringing in a clean cloth or patting with paper towels. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salting eggplant will noticeably improve recipes that call for stuffing eggplant halves or rolling thin slices around a filling. It's also a good technique for dishes where keeping its shape is important, such as stews, curries, ratatouille, or parmigiana. If you're deep-frying eggplant, salting is essential for preventing greasiness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what if you're making baba ganoush or using tiny, little adolescent eggplants? Nope, no one will care or notice if you skip the salting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooking is an investment of time and money, energy and love. Like all decisions, judging the costs requires knowing the benefits. And then choosing wisely. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Two simple techniques increasingly omitted from recipes now are salting eggplant and browning butter. Neither are absolutely necessary. Both, however, are worth doing every once in a while to remind yourself just what amazing flavors you can create in the kitchen.\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/brown_butter.jpg\" alt=\"brown butter\" title=\"brown butter\" width=\"500\" height=\"253\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6785\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyday cooking means taking lots of shortcuts. For the most flavor with the shortest amount of time in the kitchen, especially when you've splurged or gone out of your way to buy good ingredients, it's a delicate balance between paying attention to the details and just trying to get dinner on the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We've all done it -- cooked tomatoes with their peels and seeds, served pureed soup unstrained, fried the potatoes just once, not twice. It's healthier, right?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a cook, I embrace shortcuts. But as a cooking teacher, I always try to explain to my classes why, over the centuries and millennia, certain techniques have developed. Sometimes it's cultural. Usually, though, there's a very real change in texture or flavor, nutrition or shelf-life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two simple techniques increasingly omitted from recipes now are salting eggplant and browning butter. Neither are absolutely necessary. Both, however, are worth doing every once in a while to remind yourself just what amazing flavors you can create in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>BROWNED BUTTER\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/brown_butter3.jpg\" alt=\"brown butter\" title=\"brown butter\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6789\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Simmering whole butter until all its water bubbles off and its protein solids separate accomplishes several key improvements. It allows the butter to sit at (tropical) room temperature much longer without turning rancid. It significantly increases the butter's smoke point to allow high-heat cooking. And it transforms the milks sweet flavor, adding deep, nutty, caramel tones. Indians call it \u003cem>ghee\u003c/em>, while the French call it \u003cem>beurre noisette\u003c/em>, or hazelnut butter for its rich color and flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You need just five or ten minutes to make browned butter. Melt good-quality, unsalted butter in a small, heavy pan over medium heat. (A lighter colored pan will allow you to judge more easily the color of the butter as it cooks.) Continue cooking it through the foamy bubbling stage, while all the water evaporates off. Reduce the heat if you want to give yourself some extra buffer time, especially if this is your first time browning butter. As the bubbles subside, swirl the pan occasionally and keep an extra close eye on the butter. The protein solids will sink to the bottom. When they turn light brown, transfer the hot butter immediately to a heat-proof bowl. Be sure not to scorch the butter, as blackened protein will taste sharply acrid, not pleasantly nutty. It will darken a little more as it cools. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For frying or long storage, be sure to separate the milk solids: skim off any remaining foam and spoon or pour off the oil while still liquid, leaving behind the darkened protein at the bottom of the bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Browned butter can be used while still melted to saute or to garnish. It's excellent for vegetables like asparagus, broccoli, and green beans. If you're trying to use less butter, deepening its flavor will accentuate the effect from smaller amounts. For a super simple yet elegant entree, sear chicken breast, pork chops, or fish fillets in browned butter and then serve with fresh lemon wedges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let browned butter solidify and substitute it in baked recipes for extra delicate cookies and cakes. (Remember that less water means less gluten development in flour, so be sure to allow for some trial and error as you figure out the fulcrum point between flavor and structure.) Use it in rice pilaf to serve with full-flavored stews and roasts. Or simply offer it at the table in your regular butter dish and spread it on crusty bread or flaky biscuits for a flavor epiphany.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SALTING EGGPLANT\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/brown_eggplant.jpg\" alt=\"brown eggplant\" title=\"brown eggplant\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6784\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With ever smaller, younger and fresher vegetables making their way to our markets in the past decades, old rules have lost much of their imperative. Peeling, trimming, salting -- these were techniques required when vegetables were allowed to mature completely on the plant, transported long distances without the benefit of refrigeration, and served within days not weeks of harvest. Tender carrots no longer require peeling. Young celery stalks can be cooked with leaves. And most eggplants now, especially the narrow Asian varieties, are fine going straight from the cutting board the pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Occasionally, though, salting eggplant is critical and will remind you just why this vegetable has been embraced in classic dishes around the world. It's a hassle, but the extra step draws out bitter juices in older vegetables, whether those missed in the back corner of your garden or forgotten in the bottom of your refrigerator. More importantly, salting alters the cell structure of the vegetable's flesh, creating that famous silken texture while preventing excess absorption of oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To salt eggplant, halve, dice or slice it as needed. Sprinkle generous with kosher salt and set aside in a bowl or colander. To encourage the purging of juices, weight the eggplant. (The most effective way is to fill a zip bag with water and plop it on top of the pieces. The age-old method is a flat plate topped with a rock.) Leave the eggplant for 30 to 60 minutes. When you return and peek into the bowl, you'll see a surprising amount of dark brown liquid at the bottom. Rinse the eggplant quickly in cool water, drain well and then dry it by wringing in a clean cloth or patting with paper towels. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salting eggplant will noticeably improve recipes that call for stuffing eggplant halves or rolling thin slices around a filling. It's also a good technique for dishes where keeping its shape is important, such as stews, curries, ratatouille, or parmigiana. If you're deep-frying eggplant, salting is essential for preventing greasiness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what if you're making baba ganoush or using tiny, little adolescent eggplants? Nope, no one will care or notice if you skip the salting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooking is an investment of time and money, energy and love. Like all decisions, judging the costs requires knowing the benefits. And then choosing wisely. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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}
},
"baycurious": {
"id": "baycurious",
"title": "Bay Curious",
"tagline": "Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time",
"info": "KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/news/series/baycurious",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 3
},
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"npr": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious",
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}
},
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"id": "bbc-world-service",
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"info": "The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service",
"meta": {
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"source": "BBC World Service"
},
"link": "/radio/program/bbc-world-service",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/",
"rss": "https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"
}
},
"californiareport": {
"id": "californiareport",
"title": "The California Report",
"tagline": "California, day by day",
"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-California-Report-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareport",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 8
},
"link": "/californiareport",
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"amazon": "https://music.amazon.com/podcasts/26099305-72af-4542-9dde-ac1807fe36d5/kqed-s-the-california-report",
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}
},
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"title": "The California Report Magazine",
"tagline": "Your state, your stories",
"info": "Every week, The California Report Magazine takes you on a road trip for the ears: to visit the places and meet the people who make California unique. The in-depth storytelling podcast from the California Report.",
"airtime": "FRI 4:30pm-5pm, 6:30pm-7pm, 11pm-11:30pm",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareportmagazine",
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"order": 10
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM3NjkwNjk1OTAz",
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},
"city-arts": {
"id": "city-arts",
"title": "City Arts & Lectures",
"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/05/cityartsandlecture-300x300.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.cityarts.net/",
"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
"subscribe": {
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/City-Arts-and-Lectures-p692/",
"rss": "https://www.cityarts.net/feed/"
}
},
"closealltabs": {
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/closealltabs",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 1
},
"link": "/podcasts/closealltabs",
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"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"meta": {
"site": "radio",
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},
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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}
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"id": "forum",
"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
"link": "/forum",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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"freakonomics-radio": {
"id": "freakonomics-radio",
"title": "Freakonomics Radio",
"info": "Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. It is produced in partnership with WNYC.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
"airtime": "SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
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},
"fresh-air": {
"id": "fresh-air",
"title": "Fresh Air",
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"link": "/radio/program/fresh-air",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/381444908/podcast.xml"
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510051/podcast.xml"
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},
"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
"title": "Hidden Brain",
"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/series/423302056/hidden-brain",
"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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},
"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/howIBuiltThis.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this",
"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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},
"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"order": 15
},
"link": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/id1492194549",
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}
},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
"subscribe": {
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
}
},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Masters-of-Scale-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "http://mastersofscale.app.link/",
"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
"subscribe": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
"npr": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast",
"stitcher": "https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share",
"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"
}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
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"support": {}
}
}
}
