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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For a lot of us in the Bay Area, it’s like watching the rest of the country catch up. New waves of lab-engineered alternative proteins are sweeping the nation. They promise to be so much like their meat muses that it’s hard to tell the difference. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Los Angeles’s Beyond Meat has made waves with its rising stocks and its beef, chicken and pork-inspired products. These now include patties and sausages sold at fast food chains like Carl’s Jr. and Subway. The Redwood City-based Impossible Foods first debuted its burger patty at upscale restaurants like Momofuku Nishi in New York and San Francisco’s now-closed Jardinière before scaling up through a partnership with Burger King last year. With their marketing language and their venture capital funding models, both companies are more Silicon Valley than Bay Area natural grocery store.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bay Area history is replete with vegan “meats.” Some, like lentil and black bean burgers, are impossible to mistake with beef. They proudly stand, or rather lay, as legume patties. But for years, a variety of Bay Area restaurants and grocery stores have imitated the fleshy textures of beef, poultry and pork to much success. At Chinese restaurants in the Bay and beyond, vegan meats absorb sauces and hold chew convincingly—even though they’re genetically closer to the broccoli on the plate beside them than any poultry product. In fact, fake meat likely first emerged in \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vice.com/en_asia/article/8xyqqz/origin-of-fake-meat-chinese-cuisine\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chinese cuisine\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> as early as the 7th century. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vegelutiontrading.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Market\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Oakland’s Chinatown, there is no language around “optimized protein,” but rather shelves and fridges full of plant-based proteins, in the shape of chicken nuggets, shrimps and more. The market, which provides wholesale meat substitutes for restaurants all over the Bay Area, including \u003ca href=\"https://rnglounge.com/\">R&G Lounge\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebutchersson_official/?hl=en\">The Butcher’s Son\u003c/a>, has been around since at least 1996. That’s co-owner Samuel Wong’s estimate. Wong took over the market, which imports a lot of its goods from Taiwan, last January from the now-retired Layonna Wang. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I spent over two months with her before she handed it over to me,” he says. “I was a cashier. I was a delivery driver. She questioned me a lot of times. She doesn’t want people to take over and then end [the business].” Since assuming control, Wong has noticed a big growth in his wholesale business. That includes new customers as well as increased demand from longtime clients. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136156\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136156\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg\" alt=\"Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-1020x765.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, the demand for meat-free meat shows no sign of slowing. This year, Impossible Foods is shifting its attention to pork while Beyond Meats eyes chicken as its next big game. Last summer, the latter teased a fried-chicken product at a KFC in Atlanta, which \u003ca href=\"https://techcrunch.com/2019/08/26/kentucky-fried-chicken-goes-beyond-chicken-in-partnership-with-beyond-meat/\">sold out in five hours\u003c/a>. As consumers wait and see what new batches of meat-free alternatives these large-scale companies cook up, Bay Area residents can revisit some old, faithful favorites that serve vegan and vegetarian proteins with flavors from across the world.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>San Francisco\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/rheas-deli-and-market-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Rhea’s Deli\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Mission district deli and sandwich shop, offers two meat-free options, including a marinated “vege-beef” steak sandwich. Their beloved vegan BBQ chicken sandwich features Layonna’s chicken drumsticks dressed with plenty of pickled fixings and chili sauce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/love-n-haight-deli-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Love N’ Haight\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Lower Haight family-run institution, has been serving meat-free dutch crunch sandwiches, salads and various deli sundries for over two decades. Owner Fey Chao and her family, who converted the deli’s menu to fully vegetarian in 2013 according to Hoodline, have kept their prices very accessible. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://goldeneravegan.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Golden Era Vegan Restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> opened in 1999, making it a veteran in the fake meat game. The restaurant serves up dishes with Vietnamese, Chinese, Indian and Thai influences and totally free of any animal products. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Oakland\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/officialveganmob/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegan Mob\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the much buzzed-about Oakland soul food restaurant, boasts hour-long lines even months after its opening last October. The plant-based menu of chef and owner Toriano Gordon features brisket, gumbo and fried chicken. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B7T8qdVAcOl/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/gay4u.biz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gay 4 U\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the second incarnation of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135485/hella-vegan-eats-is-reborn-in-oakland-as-gay-4-u\">Hella Vegan Eats\u003c/a>, features a few “meat” products, including a chickpea and seitan burger patty and a non-GMO soy chicken and waffle burger. Chef Sofi Espice, who offers free meals for trans people of color, also uses jackfruit in their taco dish at Gay 4 U. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B6qqxF0B6xw/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aburayaoakland/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Aburaya\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Japanese punk-themed fried chicken spot, has always had a soft spot for vegans since its opening in 2014. All of the restaurant's fried combos come in both cauliflower and Layonna soy-chicken versions with an egg-free miso ranch dressing. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Berkeley\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flacosvegmex/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flacos\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> has been serving up delicious vegan Mexican food since 2010 (and might soon be moving pending a housing development that’s set to take over their lot). Animal-free proteins sourced from Layonna’s can be found in their delicious mole and crispy taquitos.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BECD5fbERqI/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebutchersson_official/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Butcher’s Son\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> quickly outgrew its outpost on University Avenue and moved up the street to a bigger storefront with a deli market on top of their sandwich operation. According to Berkeleyside, the owners of the restaurant are also planning to take over Pizza Moda, converting it into \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2019/12/10/pizza-moda-to-become-a-sister-vegan-italian-restaurant-for-the-butchers-son\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a vegan Italian restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> set to open this winter. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B6RD-tkgY9o/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/long-life-vegi-house-berkeley?sort_by=date_desc\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Long Live Vegi House\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">’s lunch specials have made loyal fans of East Bay residents. The long-running restaurant recently moved to a new location but has kept the same menu featuring Mongolian beef, Kung Pao chicken and sweet and sour pork, all served with plenty of vegetables. Beware that while the restaurant’s meats are vegetarian, its seafood offerings are really seafood. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For a lot of us in the Bay Area, it’s like watching the rest of the country catch up. New waves of lab-engineered alternative proteins are sweeping the nation. They promise to be so much like their meat muses that it’s hard to tell the difference. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Los Angeles’s Beyond Meat has made waves with its rising stocks and its beef, chicken and pork-inspired products. These now include patties and sausages sold at fast food chains like Carl’s Jr. and Subway. The Redwood City-based Impossible Foods first debuted its burger patty at upscale restaurants like Momofuku Nishi in New York and San Francisco’s now-closed Jardinière before scaling up through a partnership with Burger King last year. With their marketing language and their venture capital funding models, both companies are more Silicon Valley than Bay Area natural grocery store.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bay Area history is replete with vegan “meats.” Some, like lentil and black bean burgers, are impossible to mistake with beef. They proudly stand, or rather lay, as legume patties. But for years, a variety of Bay Area restaurants and grocery stores have imitated the fleshy textures of beef, poultry and pork to much success. At Chinese restaurants in the Bay and beyond, vegan meats absorb sauces and hold chew convincingly—even though they’re genetically closer to the broccoli on the plate beside them than any poultry product. In fact, fake meat likely first emerged in \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vice.com/en_asia/article/8xyqqz/origin-of-fake-meat-chinese-cuisine\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chinese cuisine\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> as early as the 7th century. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vegelutiontrading.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Market\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Oakland’s Chinatown, there is no language around “optimized protein,” but rather shelves and fridges full of plant-based proteins, in the shape of chicken nuggets, shrimps and more. The market, which provides wholesale meat substitutes for restaurants all over the Bay Area, including \u003ca href=\"https://rnglounge.com/\">R&G Lounge\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebutchersson_official/?hl=en\">The Butcher’s Son\u003c/a>, has been around since at least 1996. That’s co-owner Samuel Wong’s estimate. Wong took over the market, which imports a lot of its goods from Taiwan, last January from the now-retired Layonna Wang. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I spent over two months with her before she handed it over to me,” he says. “I was a cashier. I was a delivery driver. She questioned me a lot of times. She doesn’t want people to take over and then end [the business].” Since assuming control, Wong has noticed a big growth in his wholesale business. That includes new customers as well as increased demand from longtime clients. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136156\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136156\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg\" alt=\"Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-1020x765.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, the demand for meat-free meat shows no sign of slowing. This year, Impossible Foods is shifting its attention to pork while Beyond Meats eyes chicken as its next big game. Last summer, the latter teased a fried-chicken product at a KFC in Atlanta, which \u003ca href=\"https://techcrunch.com/2019/08/26/kentucky-fried-chicken-goes-beyond-chicken-in-partnership-with-beyond-meat/\">sold out in five hours\u003c/a>. As consumers wait and see what new batches of meat-free alternatives these large-scale companies cook up, Bay Area residents can revisit some old, faithful favorites that serve vegan and vegetarian proteins with flavors from across the world.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>San Francisco\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/rheas-deli-and-market-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Rhea’s Deli\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Mission district deli and sandwich shop, offers two meat-free options, including a marinated “vege-beef” steak sandwich. Their beloved vegan BBQ chicken sandwich features Layonna’s chicken drumsticks dressed with plenty of pickled fixings and chili sauce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Anchovies are suddenly everywhere in the Bay Area. This spring, Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski, the duo behind State Bird Provisions, are set to open \u003ca href=\"https://hoodline.com/2020/01/state-bird-provisions-team-to-take-over-fillmore-s-fat-angel-space\">Bar Anchovy\u003c/a>, a cozy oyster bar with a focus on local anchovies just around the corner from their hit restaurant in the Fillmore District. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A few weeks ago at\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135820/flavors-worth-finding-winter-comfort-food-isnt-always-about-soup\"> MAMA Oakland\u003c/a>, my order of bread came with anchovies and butter—a much bolder offering than balsamic and olive oil. At Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/barsardinewine/\">Bar Sardine\u003c/a>, a nighttime pop-up at the Bartavelle Coffee & Wine Bar, anchovies make an appearance on sandwiches alongside the less salty and oilier sardine. And in summer, a tin of anchovies is a staple in my pantry; they pair well with the sweetness of Early Girl tomatoes and any soft, creamy cheese. Though imported anchovies are common in the Bay Area, the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.fishwatch.gov/profiles/northern-anchovy\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Northern anchovy\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> found off the coast of California is designated as a sustainable fish by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Agency and available year round. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B7D_51LhorM/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If whole fish isn’t your jam, Bay Area fish purveyors \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/montereyfishmarket/\">Monterey Fish Market\u003c/a>, which serves retail customers as well as restaurants, and Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/umamimart/\">Umami Mart\u003c/a> are selling a new San Francisco-made small batch fish sauce from the no-frills brand, California Fish Sauce. Made with sea salt and Monterey anchovies by Bay Area local Joe Phan, California Fish Sauce promises no dilution, artificial colors or flavors and a 80N rating, a measure of the nitrogen concentration in the sauce per liter. The nitrogen content is an indicator of protein—the higher the N rating, the higher quality, more complex and concentrated the fish sauce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B2FSEXogMNv/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There's also the Hayward-based \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/redboatfishsauce/\">Red Boat Fish Sauce\u003c/a> which was started in 2011 by Cuong Pham who emigrated from Vietnam to the Bay Area for college. Pham’s company fishes for black anchovies off the Vietnamese island of Phu Cuoc, famed for its tiny fish, and ferments them in sea salt for an entire year. The resulting fish sauce, measuring at 40N, is a favorite of savvy home chefs and restaurants like State Bird Provisions. Last year, the company also debuted a powdered salt version carrying the same flavors of their famed fish sauce.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Slowly but surely, anchovies, long relegated to pizza toppings, are emerging from American culinary shadows. In fact, in Pham’s native Vietnam and neighboring Thailand and Laos, the small and salty fish are a core flavoring agent in many dishes. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Next time you’re dining out, take heed of that inexplicable but tangible full bodied and aquatic saltiness to your dish. Chances are, it’s anchovy related. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"disqusTitle": "Life After Pop-Up: Oakland's Lovely's and San Francisco's Chicáno Nuevo Seek Permanence",
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"content": "\u003cp>The line at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lovelys__oakland/\">Lovely’s\u003c/a> stretched for two blocks, past other eateries, when the Oakland burger joint popped up at Tacos Oscar after a month-long hiatus this September. Those who decided to brave the wait wouldn’t get a bite for hours. “People are telling me, ‘Congratulations.’ And I hated that experience,” remembers Mikey Yoon, the chef behind Lovely’s. “I don't want people to wait three hours for a five-dollar burger.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_127083,bayareabites_133040' label='More pop-ups around the Bay']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The scene may seem both exciting and daunting for any chef, but it’s especially challenging for pop-up chefs who cook in unfamiliar kitchens with limited storage and a modest staff (if any at all), while competing with their nomadic peers and established brick-and-mortar restaurants for the attention of patrons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“To have a successful one-off pop-up, you have to knock it out of the park,” Yoon says. “There [are] so many things involved. There’s people that are helping me out that day. How much have they worked with me? How hard is the process? They’re also in a new setting.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, consistency is super key. You want to deliver the perfect product that you’ve been working on so hard,” Yoon adds. “To be honest, for the last couple pop-ups I’ve been pretty disappointed in myself or just the process of it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pop-up restaurants in the Bay Area have been on a steady rise over the last decade, intersecting with escalating rents and a volatile job market following the 2008 financial crisis. Creative, often self-taught chefs took to the street offering regionally specific and experimental dishes to patrons at affordable prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though rents show no signs of ebbing, many pop-up owners still angle for some permanence, even if it’s in a less traditional space like a shipping container. Others take over kitchens at bars and restaurants with leases more like artist residencies than commercial tenancies. Stability benefits both chefs and their customers—one gains steady income, the other a more consistent product.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Surviving the Hype\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Before the September pop-up at Tacos Oscar, Lovely’s built a dedicated fan base through its classic American diner fare at Piedmont Avenue bar The Lodge, where Yoon popped up consistently from June 2018 until July 2019. There, from the bar’s tiny kitchen, he churned out fried chicken sandwiches and his coveted “OG” burgers (American cheese topped smashed patty and all the fixings in a potato bun).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136000\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136000\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender.jpeg\" alt=\"A drive thru burger and an OG burger from Oakland's Lovely's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1029\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender.jpeg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-160x86.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-800x429.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-768x412.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-1020x547.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-1200x643.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A drive thru burger and an OG burger from Lovely's. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Mikey Yoon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The burger, along with Lovely’s entire menu, is an ode to the uncomplicated and reliable offerings from the lunch delis and diners that Yoon loved in his Midwest and East Coast days. In fact, his parents ran a few of those delis themselves in his home state of Maryland. “It definitely represented my parents,” he recalls. “Out there, it’s a cheeseburger, steak and cheese, chopped cheese, french fries from a bag. It was super affordable.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hype around Lovely’s coincided with Yoon’s announcement that he’d be leaving his year-long post at The Lodge to find a permanent spot of his own. With a single, stable location, Yoon can avoid the stress of Bay Area residents’ avid pursuit for the newest and most ephemeral food experiences—a chase that’s become gamified thanks to social feeds. “In a pop-up context it almost seems like it’s not even about the food. It’s about the process of it,” he says. “People want the experience of, I hate to say it, maybe waiting in line because everyone else is doing it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135970\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135970\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315.jpeg\" alt=\"Lovely's chef Mikey Yoon along with Javi Palacios and Cameron Kauzer working a pop-up at Eli's Mile High Club.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315.jpeg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-1200x900.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lovely's chef Mikey Yoon along with Javi Palacios and Cameron Kauzer working a pop-up at Eli's Mile High Club. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To mitigate the wait time of his September pop-up, Yoon opted for weekend-long takeovers of the kitchen at Eli’s Mile High Club while securing a future home for Lovely’s. “The margins for restaurants aren’t high really, especially if I’m selling a five or six dollar burger,” Yoon explains. “I needed to find a situation to where I can keep my prices low and still have my goals intact.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To that end, he’s hoping to finalize a deal with a brewery set to open in Oakland’s Pill Hill neighborhood next summer. “On the financial end, it works wonders for me because they’re kind of doing the heavy lifting. They’re building the kitchen. I don’t have to put all of this investment down,” he says. He’ll keep mum on other details until the deal is inked.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Drinking Buddies\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>On the other side of the bridge in San Francisco, chef Abraham Nunez is also searching for a permanent spot for his \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chicano_nuevo/?hl=en\">Chicáno Nuevo\u003c/a> pop-up. In 2015, Nunez started selling tamales and fish tacos at the original Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack location after the eatery moved down the street. Soon enough, the owner asked him to take over the kitchen; Nunez ran his pop-up for a year until the building sold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BybOwFYB9y2/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Originally from San Diego and Tijuana, Nunez was excited to offer the regionally specific Mexican food he grew up eating, like the Baja-style fish tacos he serves with a salmon caldo. Besides his specialized menu, Nunez also sees the value of his pop-up for bars and breweries who sell liquor under a 47 license, which requires a facility be a “bona fide eating place” with over half its sales coming from food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some new bar owners that don’t have experience to run a kitchen are looking to people like me who have a following of people and already a brand, a central dish, a focal point and a strategy,” he says. “The pop-up as a service is highly desirable because you come in and you run their kitchen. They don’t have to go out and hire and train and work out their recipes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The former musician compares running a pop-up to being in a band, playing shows in a different venue every weekend. “It feels almost exactly the same,” Nunez says. “Rehearse, get the band together, perform a show. Prep, get the food and ingredients and equipment together and go perform, do a pop-up. Then you pack up your gear at the end of the night and you go home.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Currently, Nunez is touring Chicáno Nuevo at Old Devil Moon, El Rio and Casements. Starting next year, he’s hoping to be in a permanent spot on 16th and Mission Streets. The chef is in the final stages of negotiations for a commercial space through the Mission Housing Development Corporation, a community-based organization dedicated to creating and preserving high-quality affordable housing for Mission residents.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Better Together\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>[aside postID=\"bayareabites_135485,checkplease_20198\" label='Gay 4 U is Reborn and Aburaya is on Check, Please!']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Terry Sok-Wolfson, along with her wife and business partner Julia Sok-Wolfson, bought downtown Oakland lunch institution Garden House in 2014, a pop-up helped them survive their first year as business owners. Adachi Hiroyuki launched dinner service at the lunch-only restaurant with \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aburayaoakland/?hl=en\">Aburaya\u003c/a>, a punk rock-influenced Japanese fried chicken spot with a cult following. With Hiroyuki splitting the rent with them, the Sok-Wolfsons were able to keep afloat as new business owners. “I knew in my heart that it’d become increasingly difficult to run a business in downtown Oakland,” Terry says. “[The pop-up] is what ultimately gave us an opportunity to succeed and grow as much as we have.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After Aburaya spun out to their own location, with the Sok-Wolfsons staying on as business partners, Garden House’s building sold in 2017. The couple renovated the restaurant and negotiated a new lease with pop-ups in mind. “Aburaya has turned into something that none of us could’ve imagined,” Terry explains. “If we’re able to give someone else an opportunity to grow as much as Aburaya has, someone that is a part of the community, doing things for the community, then that’s definitely something we want to [do].”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B6DTBmmBmFk/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This October, Sofi Espice’s colorful vegan pop-up, Gay 4 U, moved into Garden House for dinner and brunch service after losing their semi-permanent spot at Classic Cars West. Now that they’re on more solid financial footing at Garden House, the Sok-Wolfsons are offering Espice a more flexible lease option, including marginally increasing rent that can take the pressure off of the pop-up in the first few months. “I think it’s impossible to run a pop-up without a venue that supports you. And it’s also almost impossible to just run a simple small family restaurant,” Terry says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m very committed to Oakland in as many ways as I can be. Allowing pop-ups and trying to help incubate folks was my way of trying to ensure that Oakland's culinary creative scene stays around.”\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The line at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lovelys__oakland/\">Lovely’s\u003c/a> stretched for two blocks, past other eateries, when the Oakland burger joint popped up at Tacos Oscar after a month-long hiatus this September. Those who decided to brave the wait wouldn’t get a bite for hours. “People are telling me, ‘Congratulations.’ And I hated that experience,” remembers Mikey Yoon, the chef behind Lovely’s. “I don't want people to wait three hours for a five-dollar burger.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The scene may seem both exciting and daunting for any chef, but it’s especially challenging for pop-up chefs who cook in unfamiliar kitchens with limited storage and a modest staff (if any at all), while competing with their nomadic peers and established brick-and-mortar restaurants for the attention of patrons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“To have a successful one-off pop-up, you have to knock it out of the park,” Yoon says. “There [are] so many things involved. There’s people that are helping me out that day. How much have they worked with me? How hard is the process? They’re also in a new setting.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, consistency is super key. You want to deliver the perfect product that you’ve been working on so hard,” Yoon adds. “To be honest, for the last couple pop-ups I’ve been pretty disappointed in myself or just the process of it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pop-up restaurants in the Bay Area have been on a steady rise over the last decade, intersecting with escalating rents and a volatile job market following the 2008 financial crisis. Creative, often self-taught chefs took to the street offering regionally specific and experimental dishes to patrons at affordable prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though rents show no signs of ebbing, many pop-up owners still angle for some permanence, even if it’s in a less traditional space like a shipping container. Others take over kitchens at bars and restaurants with leases more like artist residencies than commercial tenancies. Stability benefits both chefs and their customers—one gains steady income, the other a more consistent product.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Surviving the Hype\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Before the September pop-up at Tacos Oscar, Lovely’s built a dedicated fan base through its classic American diner fare at Piedmont Avenue bar The Lodge, where Yoon popped up consistently from June 2018 until July 2019. There, from the bar’s tiny kitchen, he churned out fried chicken sandwiches and his coveted “OG” burgers (American cheese topped smashed patty and all the fixings in a potato bun).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136000\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136000\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender.jpeg\" alt=\"A drive thru burger and an OG burger from Oakland's Lovely's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1029\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender.jpeg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-160x86.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-800x429.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-768x412.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-1020x547.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-1200x643.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A drive thru burger and an OG burger from Lovely's. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Mikey Yoon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The burger, along with Lovely’s entire menu, is an ode to the uncomplicated and reliable offerings from the lunch delis and diners that Yoon loved in his Midwest and East Coast days. In fact, his parents ran a few of those delis themselves in his home state of Maryland. “It definitely represented my parents,” he recalls. “Out there, it’s a cheeseburger, steak and cheese, chopped cheese, french fries from a bag. It was super affordable.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hype around Lovely’s coincided with Yoon’s announcement that he’d be leaving his year-long post at The Lodge to find a permanent spot of his own. With a single, stable location, Yoon can avoid the stress of Bay Area residents’ avid pursuit for the newest and most ephemeral food experiences—a chase that’s become gamified thanks to social feeds. “In a pop-up context it almost seems like it’s not even about the food. It’s about the process of it,” he says. “People want the experience of, I hate to say it, maybe waiting in line because everyone else is doing it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135970\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135970\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315.jpeg\" alt=\"Lovely's chef Mikey Yoon along with Javi Palacios and Cameron Kauzer working a pop-up at Eli's Mile High Club.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315.jpeg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-1200x900.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lovely's chef Mikey Yoon along with Javi Palacios and Cameron Kauzer working a pop-up at Eli's Mile High Club. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To mitigate the wait time of his September pop-up, Yoon opted for weekend-long takeovers of the kitchen at Eli’s Mile High Club while securing a future home for Lovely’s. “The margins for restaurants aren’t high really, especially if I’m selling a five or six dollar burger,” Yoon explains. “I needed to find a situation to where I can keep my prices low and still have my goals intact.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To that end, he’s hoping to finalize a deal with a brewery set to open in Oakland’s Pill Hill neighborhood next summer. “On the financial end, it works wonders for me because they’re kind of doing the heavy lifting. They’re building the kitchen. I don’t have to put all of this investment down,” he says. He’ll keep mum on other details until the deal is inked.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Drinking Buddies\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>On the other side of the bridge in San Francisco, chef Abraham Nunez is also searching for a permanent spot for his \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chicano_nuevo/?hl=en\">Chicáno Nuevo\u003c/a> pop-up. In 2015, Nunez started selling tamales and fish tacos at the original Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack location after the eatery moved down the street. Soon enough, the owner asked him to take over the kitchen; Nunez ran his pop-up for a year until the building sold.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Originally from San Diego and Tijuana, Nunez was excited to offer the regionally specific Mexican food he grew up eating, like the Baja-style fish tacos he serves with a salmon caldo. Besides his specialized menu, Nunez also sees the value of his pop-up for bars and breweries who sell liquor under a 47 license, which requires a facility be a “bona fide eating place” with over half its sales coming from food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some new bar owners that don’t have experience to run a kitchen are looking to people like me who have a following of people and already a brand, a central dish, a focal point and a strategy,” he says. “The pop-up as a service is highly desirable because you come in and you run their kitchen. They don’t have to go out and hire and train and work out their recipes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The former musician compares running a pop-up to being in a band, playing shows in a different venue every weekend. “It feels almost exactly the same,” Nunez says. “Rehearse, get the band together, perform a show. Prep, get the food and ingredients and equipment together and go perform, do a pop-up. Then you pack up your gear at the end of the night and you go home.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Currently, Nunez is touring Chicáno Nuevo at Old Devil Moon, El Rio and Casements. Starting next year, he’s hoping to be in a permanent spot on 16th and Mission Streets. The chef is in the final stages of negotiations for a commercial space through the Mission Housing Development Corporation, a community-based organization dedicated to creating and preserving high-quality affordable housing for Mission residents.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Better Together\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Terry Sok-Wolfson, along with her wife and business partner Julia Sok-Wolfson, bought downtown Oakland lunch institution Garden House in 2014, a pop-up helped them survive their first year as business owners. Adachi Hiroyuki launched dinner service at the lunch-only restaurant with \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aburayaoakland/?hl=en\">Aburaya\u003c/a>, a punk rock-influenced Japanese fried chicken spot with a cult following. With Hiroyuki splitting the rent with them, the Sok-Wolfsons were able to keep afloat as new business owners. “I knew in my heart that it’d become increasingly difficult to run a business in downtown Oakland,” Terry says. “[The pop-up] is what ultimately gave us an opportunity to succeed and grow as much as we have.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After Aburaya spun out to their own location, with the Sok-Wolfsons staying on as business partners, Garden House’s building sold in 2017. The couple renovated the restaurant and negotiated a new lease with pop-ups in mind. “Aburaya has turned into something that none of us could’ve imagined,” Terry explains. “If we’re able to give someone else an opportunity to grow as much as Aburaya has, someone that is a part of the community, doing things for the community, then that’s definitely something we want to [do].”\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>This October, Sofi Espice’s colorful vegan pop-up, Gay 4 U, moved into Garden House for dinner and brunch service after losing their semi-permanent spot at Classic Cars West. Now that they’re on more solid financial footing at Garden House, the Sok-Wolfsons are offering Espice a more flexible lease option, including marginally increasing rent that can take the pressure off of the pop-up in the first few months. “I think it’s impossible to run a pop-up without a venue that supports you. And it’s also almost impossible to just run a simple small family restaurant,” Terry says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m very committed to Oakland in as many ways as I can be. Allowing pop-ups and trying to help incubate folks was my way of trying to ensure that Oakland's culinary creative scene stays around.”\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "'No Reservations' New Look: But Where's Anthony Bourdain?",
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"content": "\u003cp>[aside tag='anthony-bourdain' num=\"2\" label='More News About Anthony Bourdain'].\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article was updated November 18, 2019.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yesterday, the team behind Anthony Bourdain’s award-winning show \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em> decided to update the branding on their \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/noreservations/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Facebook page\u003c/a> — which now does not feature the iconic host and all posts have been deleted except one uploaded around the time the branding was changed featuring \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/noreservations/photos/a.181838311261/10156360860706262/?type=3&theater\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">a photo of him\u003c/a>. (The name was also changed from \u003cem>Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations \u003c/em>to simply \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em>.) For a logo redesign, the blowback from the \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em> audience online was swift — and scathing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bourdain, who died in June 2018, was known for his adventures in global cuisine, and his drive to change perceptions about local foods with his straightforward, honest observations. Thanks to his shows \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Parts Unknown\u003c/em>, his blog and his books, he visited and supported many communities of marginalized people — making him a beloved figure both within the food industry and the wider public imagination. Bourdain’s standing may go some way to explaining the negative fan reaction to the new-look \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Comments about the artwork from Facebook users on the show’s Page have termed the redesign “gross,” “nonsensical,” and “a disgrace.” As people have called out, the colors and design don’t remind viewers of Bourdain himself — or even much resemble the show he left behind. The day after the new look was revealed, fans noticed \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/KQEDcheckplease/posts/10162819925475232?comment_id=10162821227250232&reply_comment_id=10162821517735232\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">they could no longer find the Facebook Page\u003c/a> — it is uncertain whether it was deleted or unpublished.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135480\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135480\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1572\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM.png 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM-160x252.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM-800x1258.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM-768x1207.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM-763x1200.png 763w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Comments about the artwork from Facebook users on the show’s Page have termed the redesign “gross,” “nonsensical,” and “a disgrace.” \u003ccite>('No Reservations' Facebook Page)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bright colors and the plump font appear to be an antithesis of Anthony Bourdain and his hunger for all of the things he talked about around food: the people, the politics or the culture. Instead, it puts consumption in the forefront with hot dogs, pizzas, generic-looking chocolate chip cookies and more — hardly the international foods Bourdain celebrated so much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Bourdain appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/10/27/499308031/in-appetites-bourdain-pleases-the-toughest-food-critic-his-9-year-old\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">NPR’s Fresh Air in 2016\u003c/a>, he said, \"I'm happiest experiencing food in the most purely emotional way. When it's, like, street food or a one-chef, one-dish operation, or somebody who's just really, really good at one or two or three things that they've been doing for a very long time, that's very reflective of their ethnicity or their culture or their nationality — those are the things that just make me happy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What do you think of \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em>’ new look? Tell us on \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/KQEDcheckplease/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Facebook\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/KQEDcheckplease\">Twitter\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kqedbayareabites/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Instagram\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article was updated November 18, 2019.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yesterday, the team behind Anthony Bourdain’s award-winning show \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em> decided to update the branding on their \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/noreservations/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Facebook page\u003c/a> — which now does not feature the iconic host and all posts have been deleted except one uploaded around the time the branding was changed featuring \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/noreservations/photos/a.181838311261/10156360860706262/?type=3&theater\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">a photo of him\u003c/a>. (The name was also changed from \u003cem>Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations \u003c/em>to simply \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em>.) For a logo redesign, the blowback from the \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em> audience online was swift — and scathing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bourdain, who died in June 2018, was known for his adventures in global cuisine, and his drive to change perceptions about local foods with his straightforward, honest observations. Thanks to his shows \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Parts Unknown\u003c/em>, his blog and his books, he visited and supported many communities of marginalized people — making him a beloved figure both within the food industry and the wider public imagination. Bourdain’s standing may go some way to explaining the negative fan reaction to the new-look \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Comments about the artwork from Facebook users on the show’s Page have termed the redesign “gross,” “nonsensical,” and “a disgrace.” As people have called out, the colors and design don’t remind viewers of Bourdain himself — or even much resemble the show he left behind. The day after the new look was revealed, fans noticed \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/KQEDcheckplease/posts/10162819925475232?comment_id=10162821227250232&reply_comment_id=10162821517735232\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">they could no longer find the Facebook Page\u003c/a> — it is uncertain whether it was deleted or unpublished.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135480\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135480\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1572\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM.png 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM-160x252.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM-800x1258.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM-768x1207.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM-763x1200.png 763w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Comments about the artwork from Facebook users on the show’s Page have termed the redesign “gross,” “nonsensical,” and “a disgrace.” \u003ccite>('No Reservations' Facebook Page)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bright colors and the plump font appear to be an antithesis of Anthony Bourdain and his hunger for all of the things he talked about around food: the people, the politics or the culture. Instead, it puts consumption in the forefront with hot dogs, pizzas, generic-looking chocolate chip cookies and more — hardly the international foods Bourdain celebrated so much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Bourdain appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/10/27/499308031/in-appetites-bourdain-pleases-the-toughest-food-critic-his-9-year-old\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">NPR’s Fresh Air in 2016\u003c/a>, he said, \"I'm happiest experiencing food in the most purely emotional way. When it's, like, street food or a one-chef, one-dish operation, or somebody who's just really, really good at one or two or three things that they've been doing for a very long time, that's very reflective of their ethnicity or their culture or their nationality — those are the things that just make me happy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What do you think of \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em>’ new look? Tell us on \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/KQEDcheckplease/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Facebook\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/KQEDcheckplease\">Twitter\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kqedbayareabites/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Instagram\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "At Quintessence Sorbet, a Spotlight on California's Bounty",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On any given Thursday night, nestled between the bright pink and yellow shipping containers of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tacososcar/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tacos Oscar\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Oakland, you might find a gentleman selling a medley of sorbets from an old-school ice-cream cart. Shifting with the season’s harvests, Kramer Collins’s flavors are often named after their primary ingredient. His pistachio for example, is a sorbet made from Santa Barbara pistachios, water, cane sugar and sea salt. Offered with Maldon salt flakes as a topping, the sorbet tastes clean and true — the delicious pistachios have changed form but not flavor.\u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='jpepinheart_1269,bayareabites_118043' label='Sherbet, Ice Cream and More']\u003cbr>\n\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Collins came into sorbet making in 2008 when he was hired as a dishwasher at Oakland’s Scream Sorbet. It was his first job in the food industry and eventually, he moved into sourcing ingredients, developing flavors as the kitchen manager. “I hated so much of that job. It's yelling at people, firing people, telling people to be on-time. I was bad at all that stuff,” he confesses. “Ordering packaging. Ordering paper towels for the bathroom. It's the least romantic thing.” When I ask if there’s more romance with Quintessence, he answers assuredly, “Yeah. Because I make it that way.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After Scream shuttered in 2013, Collins returned to sorbet making in 2017 buying his own equipment and serving in Port Costa’s Honey House Cafe and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bullvalleyroadhouse.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bull Valley Road House\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> but earlier this year, his plans were put on hold.\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I was diagnosed with leukemia in January and I got super sick and I was in the hospital. I got the chemo and all that stuff. Many, many chemos.” he shares. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the next six months, Collins couldn’t do much besides stay put, read, meditate and contemplate his future. “I just made a bunch of resolutions that when I was better and made it out of that situation, that I would take more advantage of things that make me happier and are more for my own enrichment.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In June, when he finally got well enough, Collins returned to Bull Valley Roadhouse’s kitchen with a renewed sense of direction. This August, he debuted \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/quintessencesorbet/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Quintessence Sorbet\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at Oscar Michel and Jake Weiss’s Tacos Oscar after meeting the two back when they popped up at the Bull Valley Roadhouse.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135327\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135327\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup.jpg\" alt=\"A scoop of pistachio sorbet is served with some Maldon salt.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A scoop of pistachio sorbet is served with some Maldon salt. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">By night’s end, Collins sold out of his pistachio, strawberry and coconut lime sorbets. \u003c/span>\u003cb>“\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This is all that I could really dream of especially my first time doing this. It's unbelievable people who work here, unbelievable people who come in the door. Just really adventurous people who are willing to give it a try,” he shares. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Collins, who grew up in Orinda and spent many weekends at a family friend’s farm in Moraga, has a special appreciation for the pinnacle taste of produce at the peak of its season. “You look forward to all that stuff coming into season,” he tells me. “It's a treat when you're finally pulling heirloom tomatoes off the bush, or your keeper squash has finally been cured and it's ready to eat in the wintertime.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This is the mindset that informs his sorbet venture which he runs alone out of Bull Valley Road House’s kitchen and at pop-ups in Oakland he announces on his Instagram. “[First], what's the absolute best version of a pluot that I can possibly find?” he tells me. “And then, when somebody thinks of a pluot, or they're talking to somebody about a pluot, how can I be the definition of the absolute, the ultimate version of that?” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The brilliance of Quintessence Sorbet comes from Collins’s pursuit of the quintessential flavors he’s drawn towards and his technique gives his frozen treats an impossibly creamy texture — all the more impressive considering they’re all vegan. “I'm using some fat, but also naturally occurring pectin,” he explains, “A lot of the structural properties of these fruits can actually give body to a sorbet.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Part of the appeal in the pop-up model for Collins is the instability of his product since he doesn’t use any binders or stabilizers that can maintain the tiny ice crystals that make up his smooth sorbets. Once made, his sorbet has to stay at the right storage temperature and sold off before it melts into a more granita-like texture. “I have a refractometer, which measures Brix, which is a way of measuring dissolved sugars,” says Collins explaining that sugar is how he controls the freezing point of his desserts. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While his sorbet is on the Bull Valley Roadhouse menu, he most enjoys the rewards of a pop-up experience where he’s serving customers himself. “I really like the ephemeral quality of being in this moment here. We're all here at the same time and how magical it is that?”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135324\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135324\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop.jpg\" alt=\"Collins offers a taste of his persimmon sorbet.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Collins offers a taste of his persimmon sorbet. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This winter will present the challenge of making sorbet appealing in a colder climate as well as figuring out how to make a sorbet out of citrus fruits whose juices are low in pectin. “I love citrus, so I've got to figure out a way, because minneola tangelo...” he trails off. Until he solves the citrus dilemma, there’s his take on the always seasonal chocolate that leans deliciously sweet while still holding toasted, bitter notes. Or Honey Sesame Neroli Sorbet, a more complex symphony of flavors. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As customers taste his sorbet, Collins is always subtly looking out for their responses. “Who doesn't want to make someone smile? It's everything with food,” he tells me. “Imagine if you could make a plate of food and then walk out and serve it to somebody. I think, to some people, it might be a little bit scary, but if you really believe in what you're doing and you love it, who wouldn't want to see someone's reaction.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On any given Thursday night, nestled between the bright pink and yellow shipping containers of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tacososcar/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tacos Oscar\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Oakland, you might find a gentleman selling a medley of sorbets from an old-school ice-cream cart. Shifting with the season’s harvests, Kramer Collins’s flavors are often named after their primary ingredient. His pistachio for example, is a sorbet made from Santa Barbara pistachios, water, cane sugar and sea salt. Offered with Maldon salt flakes as a topping, the sorbet tastes clean and true — the delicious pistachios have changed form but not flavor.\u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Collins came into sorbet making in 2008 when he was hired as a dishwasher at Oakland’s Scream Sorbet. It was his first job in the food industry and eventually, he moved into sourcing ingredients, developing flavors as the kitchen manager. “I hated so much of that job. It's yelling at people, firing people, telling people to be on-time. I was bad at all that stuff,” he confesses. “Ordering packaging. Ordering paper towels for the bathroom. It's the least romantic thing.” When I ask if there’s more romance with Quintessence, he answers assuredly, “Yeah. Because I make it that way.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After Scream shuttered in 2013, Collins returned to sorbet making in 2017 buying his own equipment and serving in Port Costa’s Honey House Cafe and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bullvalleyroadhouse.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bull Valley Road House\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> but earlier this year, his plans were put on hold.\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I was diagnosed with leukemia in January and I got super sick and I was in the hospital. I got the chemo and all that stuff. Many, many chemos.” he shares. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the next six months, Collins couldn’t do much besides stay put, read, meditate and contemplate his future. “I just made a bunch of resolutions that when I was better and made it out of that situation, that I would take more advantage of things that make me happier and are more for my own enrichment.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In June, when he finally got well enough, Collins returned to Bull Valley Roadhouse’s kitchen with a renewed sense of direction. This August, he debuted \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/quintessencesorbet/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Quintessence Sorbet\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at Oscar Michel and Jake Weiss’s Tacos Oscar after meeting the two back when they popped up at the Bull Valley Roadhouse.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135327\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135327\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup.jpg\" alt=\"A scoop of pistachio sorbet is served with some Maldon salt.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-scoop-cup-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A scoop of pistachio sorbet is served with some Maldon salt. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">By night’s end, Collins sold out of his pistachio, strawberry and coconut lime sorbets. \u003c/span>\u003cb>“\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This is all that I could really dream of especially my first time doing this. It's unbelievable people who work here, unbelievable people who come in the door. Just really adventurous people who are willing to give it a try,” he shares. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Collins, who grew up in Orinda and spent many weekends at a family friend’s farm in Moraga, has a special appreciation for the pinnacle taste of produce at the peak of its season. “You look forward to all that stuff coming into season,” he tells me. “It's a treat when you're finally pulling heirloom tomatoes off the bush, or your keeper squash has finally been cured and it's ready to eat in the wintertime.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This is the mindset that informs his sorbet venture which he runs alone out of Bull Valley Road House’s kitchen and at pop-ups in Oakland he announces on his Instagram. “[First], what's the absolute best version of a pluot that I can possibly find?” he tells me. “And then, when somebody thinks of a pluot, or they're talking to somebody about a pluot, how can I be the definition of the absolute, the ultimate version of that?” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The brilliance of Quintessence Sorbet comes from Collins’s pursuit of the quintessential flavors he’s drawn towards and his technique gives his frozen treats an impossibly creamy texture — all the more impressive considering they’re all vegan. “I'm using some fat, but also naturally occurring pectin,” he explains, “A lot of the structural properties of these fruits can actually give body to a sorbet.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Part of the appeal in the pop-up model for Collins is the instability of his product since he doesn’t use any binders or stabilizers that can maintain the tiny ice crystals that make up his smooth sorbets. Once made, his sorbet has to stay at the right storage temperature and sold off before it melts into a more granita-like texture. “I have a refractometer, which measures Brix, which is a way of measuring dissolved sugars,” says Collins explaining that sugar is how he controls the freezing point of his desserts. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While his sorbet is on the Bull Valley Roadhouse menu, he most enjoys the rewards of a pop-up experience where he’s serving customers himself. “I really like the ephemeral quality of being in this moment here. We're all here at the same time and how magical it is that?”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135324\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135324\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop.jpg\" alt=\"Collins offers a taste of his persimmon sorbet.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/quintessence-hand-scoop-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Collins offers a taste of his persimmon sorbet. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This winter will present the challenge of making sorbet appealing in a colder climate as well as figuring out how to make a sorbet out of citrus fruits whose juices are low in pectin. “I love citrus, so I've got to figure out a way, because minneola tangelo...” he trails off. Until he solves the citrus dilemma, there’s his take on the always seasonal chocolate that leans deliciously sweet while still holding toasted, bitter notes. Or Honey Sesame Neroli Sorbet, a more complex symphony of flavors. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As customers taste his sorbet, Collins is always subtly looking out for their responses. “Who doesn't want to make someone smile? It's everything with food,” he tells me. “Imagine if you could make a plate of food and then walk out and serve it to somebody. I think, to some people, it might be a little bit scary, but if you really believe in what you're doing and you love it, who wouldn't want to see someone's reaction.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Celebrity Chefs Recipes: Ryan Farr's Harissa Wings",
"title": "Celebrity Chefs Recipes: Ryan Farr's Harissa Wings",
"headTitle": "Celebrity Chefs Recipes | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ci>Photos: \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/vicchin/\">Vic Chin\u003c/a>, Video: Vic Chin and Peter Ruocco, Words & Recipe: Ryan Farr\u003c/i>\u003cbr>\n[aside tag='celebrity-chefs' num='2' label='More Celebrity Chefs Recipes']\u003cbr>\nI started making our Alabama White BBQ Sauce, with a little kick from pickled jalapeno juice, to pair with the smoked chicken we served at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com/farmers-market/\">Ferry Building Farmer’s Market\u003c/a> on Smoker Thursdays. At the time, we called it Coriander Aioli. White BBQ Sauce is very common throughout Alabama and the South East. It’s a mayo-based BBQ sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While it’s great on all kinds of meat, it shines on smoked chicken and especially on our Harissa Wings. Before we opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.4505burgersandbbq.com/\">4505 Burgers & BBQ\u003c/a> in San Francisco, we spent a lot of time traveling and eating great BBQ and making friends in a lot of different regions. We quickly learned the white sauce we’d always served with fried and smoked chicken was an integral part of Alabama BBQ culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Harissa is a North African spice blend that people generally associate with a paste. This recipe makes a dry seasoning powder with enough kick to it to pair nicely with the Alabama White BBQ Sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the same harissa that I make for the merguez sausage we sell at the Ferry Building and in our Butcher Shop. Because store-bought harissa paste is so expensive, I decided I would just make it. It definitely took me a few tries, but I was able to perfect the blend (with much thanks to the Rainbow Grocery bulk bins).\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Ryan Farr’s Harissa Wings with Alabama White BBQ Sauce\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Serves 6-8\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135297\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harissa-wings-final.jpg\" alt=\"Dry rubbed Harissa Wings paired with lemon and Alabama White BBQ Sauce\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135297\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harissa-wings-final.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harissa-wings-final-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harissa-wings-final-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harissa-wings-final-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harissa-wings-final-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harissa-wings-final-1200x675.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dry rubbed Harissa Wings paired with lemon and Alabama White BBQ Sauce \u003ccite>(Vic Chin/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>2 pounds chicken wings, flats and drums, tips reserved for stock\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ cup Harissa Powder, recipe follows\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ cup picked fresh cilantro leaves, for serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 lemons, cut into wedges, for serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups Alabama White BBQ Sauce, for serving, recipe follows\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Preheat oven to 400℉. Set a wire rack inside each of two large baking sheets.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a large bowl, combine the chicken pieces and olive oil; toss to coat. Sprinkle the harissa powder over the chicken and toss again. Arrange the chicken pieces on the wire racks, in a single layer, making sure that they are not touching each other. Bake until cooked through and crispy, about 20 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Arrange the chicken on a platter and sprinkle with cilantro leaves. Serve immediately with lemon wedges and a bowl of Alabama White BBQ sauce.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003ch2>Harissa Powder\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Makes approximately 2 ½ cups\u003c/i>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>½ cup sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ cup ancho chile powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>⅓ cup granulated garlic\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>⅓ cup paprika\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>⅓ cup cayenne\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon coarsely ground coriander seed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon ground cumin seed \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon chili flakes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon chipotle chili powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon coarsely ground caraway seed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 ½ teaspoon coarsely ground fennel seed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon dried spearmint\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>In a large bowl, combine the salt, ancho chile, granulated garlic, paprika, cayenne, sugar, coriander, cumin, pepper, chili flake, chipotle chili, caraway, fennel, and spearmint. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 months.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003ch2>Alabama White BBQ Sauce\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Makes approximately 2 cups\u003c/i>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>2 cups Hellmann’s or Best Foods mayonnaise\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons pickled jalapeno liquid from the jar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ teaspoon ground coriander\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/ul>\u003col>\n\u003cli>In a medium bowl, combine the mayonnaise, pickle juice, salt, pepper, and coriander; mix well. \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Serve with Harissa Wings or other BBQ meats. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 months.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135299\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/ryan-farr-harissa-wings-hands.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Ryan Farr holds a plate of his Harissa Wings with a side of Alabama White BBQ Sauce.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135299\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/ryan-farr-harissa-wings-hands.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/ryan-farr-harissa-wings-hands-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/ryan-farr-harissa-wings-hands-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/ryan-farr-harissa-wings-hands-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/ryan-farr-harissa-wings-hands-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/ryan-farr-harissa-wings-hands-1200x675.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Ryan Farr holds a plate of his Harissa Wings with a side of Alabama White BBQ Sauce. \u003ccite>(Vic Chin/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"excerpt": "Ryan Farr's Harissa Wings have a nice kick that pair perfectly with 4505 Burgers & BBQ's cooling White Alabama BBQ Sauce.",
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"description": "Ryan Farr's Harissa Wings have a nice kick that pair perfectly with 4505 Burgers & BBQ's cooling White Alabama BBQ Sauce.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ci>Photos: \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/vicchin/\">Vic Chin\u003c/a>, Video: Vic Chin and Peter Ruocco, Words & Recipe: Ryan Farr\u003c/i>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nI started making our Alabama White BBQ Sauce, with a little kick from pickled jalapeno juice, to pair with the smoked chicken we served at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com/farmers-market/\">Ferry Building Farmer’s Market\u003c/a> on Smoker Thursdays. At the time, we called it Coriander Aioli. White BBQ Sauce is very common throughout Alabama and the South East. It’s a mayo-based BBQ sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While it’s great on all kinds of meat, it shines on smoked chicken and especially on our Harissa Wings. Before we opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.4505burgersandbbq.com/\">4505 Burgers & BBQ\u003c/a> in San Francisco, we spent a lot of time traveling and eating great BBQ and making friends in a lot of different regions. We quickly learned the white sauce we’d always served with fried and smoked chicken was an integral part of Alabama BBQ culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Harissa is a North African spice blend that people generally associate with a paste. This recipe makes a dry seasoning powder with enough kick to it to pair nicely with the Alabama White BBQ Sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the same harissa that I make for the merguez sausage we sell at the Ferry Building and in our Butcher Shop. Because store-bought harissa paste is so expensive, I decided I would just make it. It definitely took me a few tries, but I was able to perfect the blend (with much thanks to the Rainbow Grocery bulk bins).\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Ryan Farr’s Harissa Wings with Alabama White BBQ Sauce\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Serves 6-8\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135297\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harissa-wings-final.jpg\" alt=\"Dry rubbed Harissa Wings paired with lemon and Alabama White BBQ Sauce\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135297\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harissa-wings-final.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harissa-wings-final-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harissa-wings-final-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harissa-wings-final-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harissa-wings-final-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harissa-wings-final-1200x675.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dry rubbed Harissa Wings paired with lemon and Alabama White BBQ Sauce \u003ccite>(Vic Chin/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>2 pounds chicken wings, flats and drums, tips reserved for stock\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ cup Harissa Powder, recipe follows\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ cup picked fresh cilantro leaves, for serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 lemons, cut into wedges, for serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups Alabama White BBQ Sauce, for serving, recipe follows\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Preheat oven to 400℉. Set a wire rack inside each of two large baking sheets.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a large bowl, combine the chicken pieces and olive oil; toss to coat. Sprinkle the harissa powder over the chicken and toss again. Arrange the chicken pieces on the wire racks, in a single layer, making sure that they are not touching each other. Bake until cooked through and crispy, about 20 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Arrange the chicken on a platter and sprinkle with cilantro leaves. Serve immediately with lemon wedges and a bowl of Alabama White BBQ sauce.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003ch2>Harissa Powder\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Makes approximately 2 ½ cups\u003c/i>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>½ cup sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ cup ancho chile powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>⅓ cup granulated garlic\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>⅓ cup paprika\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>⅓ cup cayenne\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon coarsely ground coriander seed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon ground cumin seed \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon chili flakes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon chipotle chili powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon coarsely ground caraway seed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 ½ teaspoon coarsely ground fennel seed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon dried spearmint\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>In a large bowl, combine the salt, ancho chile, granulated garlic, paprika, cayenne, sugar, coriander, cumin, pepper, chili flake, chipotle chili, caraway, fennel, and spearmint. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 months.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003ch2>Alabama White BBQ Sauce\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Makes approximately 2 cups\u003c/i>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>2 cups Hellmann’s or Best Foods mayonnaise\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons pickled jalapeno liquid from the jar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ teaspoon ground coriander\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/ul>\u003col>\n\u003cli>In a medium bowl, combine the mayonnaise, pickle juice, salt, pepper, and coriander; mix well. \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Serve with Harissa Wings or other BBQ meats. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 months.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135299\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/ryan-farr-harissa-wings-hands.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Ryan Farr holds a plate of his Harissa Wings with a side of Alabama White BBQ Sauce.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135299\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/ryan-farr-harissa-wings-hands.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/ryan-farr-harissa-wings-hands-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/ryan-farr-harissa-wings-hands-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/ryan-farr-harissa-wings-hands-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/ryan-farr-harissa-wings-hands-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/ryan-farr-harissa-wings-hands-1200x675.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Ryan Farr holds a plate of his Harissa Wings with a side of Alabama White BBQ Sauce. \u003ccite>(Vic Chin/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Sonoma County Chefs Respond to Kincade Fire",
"title": "Sonoma County Chefs Respond to Kincade Fire",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>[aside postID='news_11782314,science_1926793' label='More Wildfire Information on KQED']\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>by Heather Irwin\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If Chef Dustin Valette looks a bit relaxed while making sandwiches for 60, it’s only because he’s lived with a first responder his whole life. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Healdsburg restaurateur snapped into action early this morning, coordinating food relief efforts for evacuees before 10 a.m. — just about the time his dad, Bob Valette, was “wheels up” on a tanker jet headed out of Sonoma County airport to fight the Kincade Fire that is still uncontained near Geyserville.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135110\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Dustin Valette of Valette Restaurant in Healdsburg delivering food to the Healdsburg Community Center.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135110\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745-800x582.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745-768x559.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745-1020x742.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Dustin Valette of Valette Restaurant in Healdsburg delivering food to the Healdsburg Community Center. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though this fire pales in comparison to the Tubbs and Camp Fires — at least at this point — it’s a scary reminder of our new reality. With power out to thousands, news came in the middle of the night that a fire had sparked in northern Sonoma County. At this moment, \u003ca href=\"https://www.pressdemocrat.com/news/10215186-181/kincade-fire-forces-evacuation-of\">it is an estimated 10,000 acres\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Valette is working with Chef Kyle Connaughton of Single Thread (which will be closed tonight, Oct, 24), \u003ca href=\"http://www.mycatellis.com/\">Catelli’s Domenica Catelli\u003c/a> (also closed tonight), and helpers from the community (Costeaux provided the bread) to feed the approximately 60 people at the Healdsburg Community Center taking refuge from the fires. They plan to serve about 200 tonight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135111\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650.jpg\" alt=\"Dani Wilcox helps to prepare food at Valette.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1650\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135111\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-160x220.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-800x1100.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-768x1056.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-1020x1403.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-873x1200.jpg 873w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dani Wilcox helps to prepare food at Valette. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As he packed up his car with sandwiches–made with long loaves of fresh French bread, heirloom tomatoes from his own garden, meat and cheese from his restaurant kitchen — he realized the irony of such fancy sandwiches in an emergency. But that’s what he does, and that’s what he knows. And food, after all, is love. And a good sandwich takes just as long to make as a bad one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s still unknown what will happen in the coming days…but restaurateurs are ready. The local food community, including Valette and many others, offered thousands of man hours, kitchens, food, and support activated during the 2017 fires.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135114\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873.jpg\" alt=\"Chefs Dustin Valette and Ken Rochioli.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"873\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135114\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873-800x582.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873-768x559.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873-1020x742.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chefs Dustin Valette and Ken Rochioli. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As I’ve learned personally, it’s a fine line between helping and being in the way, and aid organizers are relying on vetted food providers to assist during this time. I went to several agencies and Red Cross stations today, and most are saying that it is “early hours” and they are watching the situation to best inform coordinated responses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the Cal Fire command center at the Jockey Club near the Sonoma County Fairgrounds, their own mobile kitchen is ready to feed first responders. They are currently standing by as the situation progresses. No one was able to speak in an official capacity, but the Cal Fire mobile kitchen was on site in 2017 to feed hundreds of first responders at the Fairgrounds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135112\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Ken Rochioli gets interviewed by a reporter at the Healdsburg Community Center.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"873\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135112\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873-800x582.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873-768x559.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873-1020x742.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Ken Rochioli gets interviewed by a reporter at the Healdsburg Community Center. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Also on standby is a kitted-out mobile kitchen built by Guy Fieri after the Tubbs Fire. The kitchen can serve thousands. The team, which has worked with Jose Andres and World Central Kitchen, and the kitchen can be onsite and ready to feed people within an hour of activation. Currently, the kitchen is on standby as they await instructions from CalFire. Jose Andres tweeted this morning that he was here for Sonoma County if needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://twitter.com/chefjoseandres/status/1187379055693385729\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Valette brought the sandwiches to the community center, surrounded by smoke and crawling with reporters, he smiled as his friend Ken Rochioli of KR Catering pulled up with more trays of food. Rochioli was stopped by reporters for an interview. Valette snuck by, saying that he needed to get back to his restaurant because he had an entirely new menu to prepare at the restaurant this evening. Not to mention helping with dinner for 200 at the shelter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“What else do I have to do?” he grins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sonomafamilymeal.org/\">Sonoma Family Meal\u003c/a> has activated for this emergency and is monitoring the situation to see where we can best help our community during this situation. Heather Irwin is the founder of Sonoma Family Meal.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This article originally appeared in \u003ca href=\"https://www.sonomamag.com/kincade-fire-restaurant-chef-response/\">Sonoma Magazine\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>by Heather Irwin\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If Chef Dustin Valette looks a bit relaxed while making sandwiches for 60, it’s only because he’s lived with a first responder his whole life. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Healdsburg restaurateur snapped into action early this morning, coordinating food relief efforts for evacuees before 10 a.m. — just about the time his dad, Bob Valette, was “wheels up” on a tanker jet headed out of Sonoma County airport to fight the Kincade Fire that is still uncontained near Geyserville.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135110\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Dustin Valette of Valette Restaurant in Healdsburg delivering food to the Healdsburg Community Center.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135110\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745-800x582.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745-768x559.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_valette2-1024x745-1020x742.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Dustin Valette of Valette Restaurant in Healdsburg delivering food to the Healdsburg Community Center. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though this fire pales in comparison to the Tubbs and Camp Fires — at least at this point — it’s a scary reminder of our new reality. With power out to thousands, news came in the middle of the night that a fire had sparked in northern Sonoma County. At this moment, \u003ca href=\"https://www.pressdemocrat.com/news/10215186-181/kincade-fire-forces-evacuation-of\">it is an estimated 10,000 acres\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Valette is working with Chef Kyle Connaughton of Single Thread (which will be closed tonight, Oct, 24), \u003ca href=\"http://www.mycatellis.com/\">Catelli’s Domenica Catelli\u003c/a> (also closed tonight), and helpers from the community (Costeaux provided the bread) to feed the approximately 60 people at the Healdsburg Community Center taking refuge from the fires. They plan to serve about 200 tonight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135111\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650.jpg\" alt=\"Dani Wilcox helps to prepare food at Valette.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1650\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135111\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-160x220.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-800x1100.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-768x1056.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-1020x1403.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/1019_sando_valette-1200x1650-873x1200.jpg 873w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dani Wilcox helps to prepare food at Valette. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As he packed up his car with sandwiches–made with long loaves of fresh French bread, heirloom tomatoes from his own garden, meat and cheese from his restaurant kitchen — he realized the irony of such fancy sandwiches in an emergency. But that’s what he does, and that’s what he knows. And food, after all, is love. And a good sandwich takes just as long to make as a bad one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s still unknown what will happen in the coming days…but restaurateurs are ready. The local food community, including Valette and many others, offered thousands of man hours, kitchens, food, and support activated during the 2017 fires.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135114\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873.jpg\" alt=\"Chefs Dustin Valette and Ken Rochioli.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"873\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135114\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873-800x582.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873-768x559.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fire1019_valette4-1200x873-1020x742.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chefs Dustin Valette and Ken Rochioli. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As I’ve learned personally, it’s a fine line between helping and being in the way, and aid organizers are relying on vetted food providers to assist during this time. I went to several agencies and Red Cross stations today, and most are saying that it is “early hours” and they are watching the situation to best inform coordinated responses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the Cal Fire command center at the Jockey Club near the Sonoma County Fairgrounds, their own mobile kitchen is ready to feed first responders. They are currently standing by as the situation progresses. No one was able to speak in an official capacity, but the Cal Fire mobile kitchen was on site in 2017 to feed hundreds of first responders at the Fairgrounds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135112\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Ken Rochioli gets interviewed by a reporter at the Healdsburg Community Center.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"873\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135112\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873-160x116.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873-800x582.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873-768x559.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/kenrochioli-1200x873-1020x742.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Ken Rochioli gets interviewed by a reporter at the Healdsburg Community Center. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin/Press Democrat)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Also on standby is a kitted-out mobile kitchen built by Guy Fieri after the Tubbs Fire. The kitchen can serve thousands. The team, which has worked with Jose Andres and World Central Kitchen, and the kitchen can be onsite and ready to feed people within an hour of activation. Currently, the kitchen is on standby as they await instructions from CalFire. Jose Andres tweeted this morning that he was here for Sonoma County if needed.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\n\u003cp>As Valette brought the sandwiches to the community center, surrounded by smoke and crawling with reporters, he smiled as his friend Ken Rochioli of KR Catering pulled up with more trays of food. Rochioli was stopped by reporters for an interview. Valette snuck by, saying that he needed to get back to his restaurant because he had an entirely new menu to prepare at the restaurant this evening. Not to mention helping with dinner for 200 at the shelter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“What else do I have to do?” he grins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sonomafamilymeal.org/\">Sonoma Family Meal\u003c/a> has activated for this emergency and is monitoring the situation to see where we can best help our community during this situation. Heather Irwin is the founder of Sonoma Family Meal.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This article originally appeared in \u003ca href=\"https://www.sonomamag.com/kincade-fire-restaurant-chef-response/\">Sonoma Magazine\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "In Male-Dominated Pizza Circles, Women Are Grabbing A Bigger Slice Of The Pie",
"title": "In Male-Dominated Pizza Circles, Women Are Grabbing A Bigger Slice Of The Pie",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>[aside tag='pizza' label='Bay Area Pizza Spots' target=_]\u003cbr>\nWhen Laura Meyer won the World Pizza Championship for pan pizza in Parma, Italy, the Italian judges called her the male word for champion. Despite her first-place victory, she was the only winner who didn't get a trophy that day. Hers was mailed a year later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They basically refused to acknowledge that a woman had won,\" she said, recently recalling the snub. She was the first woman to win — and the first American. That was 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next year, competing as the only woman, she won best non-traditional pizza at the International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas with a triple-infused rosemary dough (rosemary water, rosemary-infused olive oil, and chopped rosemary). And last month, Meyer's simple pepperoni pizza won the first-ever \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/07/04/738791486/a-look-at-the-history-of-pizza-in-america\">American pizza\u003c/a> division of the Caputo Cup, a pizza-making contest in Naples, Italy, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2017/12/07/569141920/cant-be-topped-neapolitan-style-pizza-making-wins-unesco-heritage-status\">birthplace\u003c/a> of modern pizza, and placed third for traditional pizza at a September contest in Atlantic City, N.J.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Meyer is a pizza powerhouse, any way you slice it. But to many in and out of her profession, she's just a woman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\"Women have always been part of pizza, but it's very macho. It has a macho problem, like most of \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/615851215/battle-tactics-for-your-sexist-workplace\">the job world\u003c/a>,\" she said from \u003ca href=\"https://hoodline.com/2019/08/as-tony-s-pizza-napoletana-turns-10-owner-reflects-on-changing-north-beach\">Tony's\u003c/a>, the prestigious pizza parlor in San Francisco where she is owner Tony Gemignani's right hand and runs its International School of Pizza. \"Guys stare at my chest. They think I don't see. Guess what? I see. My very first day of work, a coworker just watched me do my job like I was a show, entertainment, an ooh-la-la toy. So many people think I could only be as high up as I am because I'm Tony's wife. I'm not his wife. I'm his talent.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Broadly and frequently, male chauvinism is baked into pizza at every step: from the presumption that pizza delivery people are men to the dearth of female \u003ca href=\"https://www.pinterest.com/pin/195695546280848571/\">pizza-maker statues\u003c/a>. \"Pizza making is a profession where men tell you that you belong in a kitchen, but not as a career,\" said Meyer. \"They celebrate \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/restaurants-travel/article/find-grandma-pie\">grandma slices\u003c/a> but not the actual grandmas.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She is trying to change that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meyer is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2016/6/28/12033514/laura-meyer-tonys-pizza-sf\">star\u003c/a> in a recent surge of prominent female \u003cem>pizzaiole\u003c/em> across the country: \u003ca href=\"https://www.saveur.com/unique-pizza-ideas/\">Sarah Minnick\u003c/a> at Lovely's Fifty-Fifty in Portland, Ore.; septuagenarian \u003ca href=\"https://lancasteronline.com/features/food/norma-knepp-makes-the-country-s-best-new-york-style/article_fe343cd4-e1db-11e8-bbc9-0f226880d2fc.html\">Norma Knepp\u003c/a> in Pennsylvania Amish Country; \u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2011/10/nancy-silvertons-pizza-dough-recipe.html\">Nancy Silverton\u003c/a> at Osteria Mozza in Los Angeles; \u003ca href=\"https://www.5280.com/2016/04/boulder-eats-audrey-janes-pizza-garage/\">Audrey Kelly\u003c/a> of Audrey Jane's Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colo.; and this year's \u003ca href=\"https://twincities.eater.com/2019/5/6/18534798/ann-kim-james-beard-awards-2019-best-chef-midwest\">best chef\u003c/a> in the Midwest, according to the James Beard Foundation: \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/10/dining/ann-kim-chef-minneapolis.html\">Ann Kim\u003c/a>, a pizza maker in Minneapolis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In New York, where a pizza slice is quintessential to local identity, \u003ca href=\"https://blog.scottspizzatours.com/post/172104072849/nicole-russell-of-last-dragon-pizza-in-rockaway\">Nicole Russell\u003c/a> serves pickup-only Last Dragon Pizza out of her home in Queens. At the \u003ca href=\"https://nycpizzafestival.com/\">New York Pizza Festival\u003c/a> this month, which included pizza makers from Naples and across the U.S., spectators recorded Russell making her tandoori chicken pizza — unofficially the best in show, lifted by a lingering seduction of spices including ginger and mustard oil. One stranger nudged another with a tourist's stage whisper: \"She made that! I just saw her do it!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, Russell shrugged. \"As a black woman, I'm used to people underestimating me,\" she said. \"But I have a proven customer base and a following. I've had tourists from Texas who came to New York with my pizza on their bucket list. We're not just those women over there. Women aren't just coming up in the pizza game. We're winning up in the pizza game.\"\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_134173,bayareabites_129667' align='left' label='More Pizza News' target=_]\u003cbr>\nWith pizza makers finally and firmly having \u003ca href=\"https://www.pizzatoday.com/departments/features/fast-casual-pizza-boom/\">wrestled\u003c/a> the national consciousness about pizza away from cheap mega-chains like Domino's, Little Caesars, Papa John's and Pizza Hut, their pies have been released into a \u003ca href=\"https://www.1843magazine.com/food/the-neapolitan-renaissance\">renaissance\u003c/a> of artisanal styles — \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/entertaining-style/trends-news/article/bar-pizza\">bar\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/06/17/732726329/naples-rolls-out-a-fine-tuned-dough-and-the-new-cloud-pizza-is-born\">cloud\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/2017/02/how-to-make-detroit-style-pizza.html\">Detroit\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2018/5/9/17315154/best-new-pizza-rome\">Roman\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://pizzaneed.com/sicilian-pizza/\">Sicilian\u003c/a> — and \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2019/8/26/20833096/deep-fried-bbq-quesadilla-pizza-pizzadilla-viral-video\">unorthodox\u003c/a> cultural mashups, including \u003ca href=\"https://www.saveur.com/buenos-aires-pizza-guide/\">Argentine\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://explorepartsunknown.com/korea/korean-pizza/\">Korean\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2017/2/21/14670944/best-pizza-tokyo-guide\">Japanese\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.ladbible.com/news/food-swedish-people-put-some-seriously-weird-st-on-their-pizza-20181111\">Swedish\u003c/a>. That openness has created a welcoming culture. Yet pizza's association with fast food still impugns it among foodie snobs, to the point that no pizzeria in the United States — or on the planet — has a Michelin star, even though the prize has been given to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.greatbigstory.com/amp/a-michelin-star-meal-for-1-50\">$1.50 noodle stall\u003c/a> in Singapore, a \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/en/hong-kong-region/hong-kong/restaurant/tim-ho-wan-sham-shui-po\">cheap dim sum chain\u003c/a> in Hong Kong, and a crab omelet \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/06/26/732529154/meet-the-74-year-old-queen-of-bangkok-street-food-who-netted-a-michelin-star\">street food shop\u003c/a> in Bangkok.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The off-radar nature of pizza makers has given them stealth potency — if not for \u003ca href=\"https://www.businessinsider.com/zume-pizza-robot-expansion-2017-6\">seismic change\u003c/a>, then at least for visibility. It sounds, well, cheesy, but in Naples the menu at Sorbillo's, arguably the standard bearer of Neapolitan pizza, now offers a special pie — pink ricotta (blended with tomato), mozzarella fior di latte, extra virgin olive oil and fresh basil — in \u003ca href=\"http://www.napolitoday.it/blog/l_oro-di-napoli/barbie-pizzaiola-pizzeria-sorbillo.html\">partnership with Barbie\u003c/a>, which last year debuted a pizza-making doll. (Gino Sorbillo's young daughter, Ludovica, is an aspiring pizza maker.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Women can make progress in pizza that is harder in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/culture/annals-of-gastronomy/a-harvey-weinstein-moment-for-the-restaurant-industry\">macho restaurant world\u003c/a>,\" said Kim, the Minneapolis pizza maker. \"I love that because that world can be limiting. It has finite goals of money and awards. I prefer the infinite reach of intention and purpose. The most-popular item on my menu is a Korean barbecue pizza that, for some people, is their first taste of Korean food. It's all the things we say we want food to be.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pizza-making also doesn't have fine dining's militaristic brigade setup — chef du cuisine, sous chef, saucier, pâtissier, etc. — or its penchant for \u003ca href=\"https://www.foodandwine.com/chefs/communal-table-restaurant-bullying\">bullying\u003c/a> (and \u003ca href=\"https://www.thecut.com/2017/12/mario-batali-spotted-pig-rape-room.html\">worse\u003c/a>); it's far more collaborative and flexible, casual and supportive even at its upper echelons. Though its ethos is often \u003ca href=\"http://www.grubstreet.com/2015/12/pizza-hut-sexist-swag.html\">far from feminist\u003c/a>, pizza making can be a very feminine craft in the way that it doesn't cling to the rules of a male-dominated kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Kelly opened her Colorado pizzeria in 2015, after earning a degree from Le Cordon Bleu, her father urged her to include her name in the title. He and her mother have run a local chain of bagel shops for decades, but they're widely seen as \"his.\" He wanted better for his daughter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first, Kelly's kitchen was all men (and her). Now it's 50-50, and some days is all women. \"I think of gender equality as craft, as rewarding balance,\" she said. \"We've had men who haven't worked out because they don't want to listen to a woman, which I know because they'd listen if my husband told them the same thing I did.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now some of these women are banding together — including Kelly, Meyer, and Russell — to make Women In Pizza a movement like \u003ca href=\"https://www.wbur.org/onpoint/2019/02/04/girls-who-code-reshma-saujani-brave-not-perfect\">Girls Who Code\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.whitecoatsblackdoctors.org/\">White Coats Black Doctors\u003c/a>. A formal alliance debuted in September: \u003ca href=\"http://www.womeninpizza.com/\">www.womeninpizza.com\u003c/a>. And this year the \u003ca href=\"https://www.worldpizzachampions.com/\">World Pizza Champions\u003c/a>, a kind of industry Justice League, increased its female members from 3 to 5 (out of 39 active members).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Is it lame to say I do it just because it's fun?\" said Tara Hattan, who said she is the only female pizza maker in her town of Broken Arrow, Okla. \"Girls come just to see me do my \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/cbC8ZUo975I\">pizza acrobatics\u003c/a>. I get to be the inspiration or role model or just example I wish I had when I was younger. That's why I bring my \u003ca href=\"http://www.prodoughusa.com/\">ProDough\u003c/a> everywhere, out to bars or parties. I want everyone to know women can do this, because they've seen so with their own eyes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Women in pizza still have frustrations, of course, but flagrant sexism is abating. \"Ugh,\" Meyer groaned in Naples last month, readjusting her trophy for a moment as an Italian television crew scampered over to interview her about her victory. \"I'm going to have to wear my hair down.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://charmandrigor.com/\">\u003cem>Richard Morgan\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a freelance writer in New York, is the author of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Bedlam-Kindle-Single-Richard-Morgan-ebook/dp/B00WH0F2QS\">\u003cem>Born in Bedlam\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a memoir. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/10/22/771037027/in-male-dominated-pizza-circles-women-are-grabbing-a-bigger-slice-of-the-pie\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Men have long commanded the pizza-making scene, creating what one female champ calls a \"macho problem.\" But that's starting to change as more women open pizzerias and gain recognition in the field.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nWhen Laura Meyer won the World Pizza Championship for pan pizza in Parma, Italy, the Italian judges called her the male word for champion. Despite her first-place victory, she was the only winner who didn't get a trophy that day. Hers was mailed a year later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They basically refused to acknowledge that a woman had won,\" she said, recently recalling the snub. She was the first woman to win — and the first American. That was 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next year, competing as the only woman, she won best non-traditional pizza at the International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas with a triple-infused rosemary dough (rosemary water, rosemary-infused olive oil, and chopped rosemary). And last month, Meyer's simple pepperoni pizza won the first-ever \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/07/04/738791486/a-look-at-the-history-of-pizza-in-america\">American pizza\u003c/a> division of the Caputo Cup, a pizza-making contest in Naples, Italy, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2017/12/07/569141920/cant-be-topped-neapolitan-style-pizza-making-wins-unesco-heritage-status\">birthplace\u003c/a> of modern pizza, and placed third for traditional pizza at a September contest in Atlantic City, N.J.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Meyer is a pizza powerhouse, any way you slice it. But to many in and out of her profession, she's just a woman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\"Women have always been part of pizza, but it's very macho. It has a macho problem, like most of \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/615851215/battle-tactics-for-your-sexist-workplace\">the job world\u003c/a>,\" she said from \u003ca href=\"https://hoodline.com/2019/08/as-tony-s-pizza-napoletana-turns-10-owner-reflects-on-changing-north-beach\">Tony's\u003c/a>, the prestigious pizza parlor in San Francisco where she is owner Tony Gemignani's right hand and runs its International School of Pizza. \"Guys stare at my chest. They think I don't see. Guess what? I see. My very first day of work, a coworker just watched me do my job like I was a show, entertainment, an ooh-la-la toy. So many people think I could only be as high up as I am because I'm Tony's wife. I'm not his wife. I'm his talent.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Broadly and frequently, male chauvinism is baked into pizza at every step: from the presumption that pizza delivery people are men to the dearth of female \u003ca href=\"https://www.pinterest.com/pin/195695546280848571/\">pizza-maker statues\u003c/a>. \"Pizza making is a profession where men tell you that you belong in a kitchen, but not as a career,\" said Meyer. \"They celebrate \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/restaurants-travel/article/find-grandma-pie\">grandma slices\u003c/a> but not the actual grandmas.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She is trying to change that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meyer is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2016/6/28/12033514/laura-meyer-tonys-pizza-sf\">star\u003c/a> in a recent surge of prominent female \u003cem>pizzaiole\u003c/em> across the country: \u003ca href=\"https://www.saveur.com/unique-pizza-ideas/\">Sarah Minnick\u003c/a> at Lovely's Fifty-Fifty in Portland, Ore.; septuagenarian \u003ca href=\"https://lancasteronline.com/features/food/norma-knepp-makes-the-country-s-best-new-york-style/article_fe343cd4-e1db-11e8-bbc9-0f226880d2fc.html\">Norma Knepp\u003c/a> in Pennsylvania Amish Country; \u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2011/10/nancy-silvertons-pizza-dough-recipe.html\">Nancy Silverton\u003c/a> at Osteria Mozza in Los Angeles; \u003ca href=\"https://www.5280.com/2016/04/boulder-eats-audrey-janes-pizza-garage/\">Audrey Kelly\u003c/a> of Audrey Jane's Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colo.; and this year's \u003ca href=\"https://twincities.eater.com/2019/5/6/18534798/ann-kim-james-beard-awards-2019-best-chef-midwest\">best chef\u003c/a> in the Midwest, according to the James Beard Foundation: \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/10/dining/ann-kim-chef-minneapolis.html\">Ann Kim\u003c/a>, a pizza maker in Minneapolis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In New York, where a pizza slice is quintessential to local identity, \u003ca href=\"https://blog.scottspizzatours.com/post/172104072849/nicole-russell-of-last-dragon-pizza-in-rockaway\">Nicole Russell\u003c/a> serves pickup-only Last Dragon Pizza out of her home in Queens. At the \u003ca href=\"https://nycpizzafestival.com/\">New York Pizza Festival\u003c/a> this month, which included pizza makers from Naples and across the U.S., spectators recorded Russell making her tandoori chicken pizza — unofficially the best in show, lifted by a lingering seduction of spices including ginger and mustard oil. One stranger nudged another with a tourist's stage whisper: \"She made that! I just saw her do it!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, Russell shrugged. \"As a black woman, I'm used to people underestimating me,\" she said. \"But I have a proven customer base and a following. I've had tourists from Texas who came to New York with my pizza on their bucket list. We're not just those women over there. Women aren't just coming up in the pizza game. We're winning up in the pizza game.\"\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nWith pizza makers finally and firmly having \u003ca href=\"https://www.pizzatoday.com/departments/features/fast-casual-pizza-boom/\">wrestled\u003c/a> the national consciousness about pizza away from cheap mega-chains like Domino's, Little Caesars, Papa John's and Pizza Hut, their pies have been released into a \u003ca href=\"https://www.1843magazine.com/food/the-neapolitan-renaissance\">renaissance\u003c/a> of artisanal styles — \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/entertaining-style/trends-news/article/bar-pizza\">bar\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/06/17/732726329/naples-rolls-out-a-fine-tuned-dough-and-the-new-cloud-pizza-is-born\">cloud\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/2017/02/how-to-make-detroit-style-pizza.html\">Detroit\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2018/5/9/17315154/best-new-pizza-rome\">Roman\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://pizzaneed.com/sicilian-pizza/\">Sicilian\u003c/a> — and \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2019/8/26/20833096/deep-fried-bbq-quesadilla-pizza-pizzadilla-viral-video\">unorthodox\u003c/a> cultural mashups, including \u003ca href=\"https://www.saveur.com/buenos-aires-pizza-guide/\">Argentine\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://explorepartsunknown.com/korea/korean-pizza/\">Korean\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2017/2/21/14670944/best-pizza-tokyo-guide\">Japanese\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.ladbible.com/news/food-swedish-people-put-some-seriously-weird-st-on-their-pizza-20181111\">Swedish\u003c/a>. That openness has created a welcoming culture. Yet pizza's association with fast food still impugns it among foodie snobs, to the point that no pizzeria in the United States — or on the planet — has a Michelin star, even though the prize has been given to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.greatbigstory.com/amp/a-michelin-star-meal-for-1-50\">$1.50 noodle stall\u003c/a> in Singapore, a \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/en/hong-kong-region/hong-kong/restaurant/tim-ho-wan-sham-shui-po\">cheap dim sum chain\u003c/a> in Hong Kong, and a crab omelet \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/06/26/732529154/meet-the-74-year-old-queen-of-bangkok-street-food-who-netted-a-michelin-star\">street food shop\u003c/a> in Bangkok.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The off-radar nature of pizza makers has given them stealth potency — if not for \u003ca href=\"https://www.businessinsider.com/zume-pizza-robot-expansion-2017-6\">seismic change\u003c/a>, then at least for visibility. It sounds, well, cheesy, but in Naples the menu at Sorbillo's, arguably the standard bearer of Neapolitan pizza, now offers a special pie — pink ricotta (blended with tomato), mozzarella fior di latte, extra virgin olive oil and fresh basil — in \u003ca href=\"http://www.napolitoday.it/blog/l_oro-di-napoli/barbie-pizzaiola-pizzeria-sorbillo.html\">partnership with Barbie\u003c/a>, which last year debuted a pizza-making doll. (Gino Sorbillo's young daughter, Ludovica, is an aspiring pizza maker.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Women can make progress in pizza that is harder in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/culture/annals-of-gastronomy/a-harvey-weinstein-moment-for-the-restaurant-industry\">macho restaurant world\u003c/a>,\" said Kim, the Minneapolis pizza maker. \"I love that because that world can be limiting. It has finite goals of money and awards. I prefer the infinite reach of intention and purpose. The most-popular item on my menu is a Korean barbecue pizza that, for some people, is their first taste of Korean food. It's all the things we say we want food to be.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pizza-making also doesn't have fine dining's militaristic brigade setup — chef du cuisine, sous chef, saucier, pâtissier, etc. — or its penchant for \u003ca href=\"https://www.foodandwine.com/chefs/communal-table-restaurant-bullying\">bullying\u003c/a> (and \u003ca href=\"https://www.thecut.com/2017/12/mario-batali-spotted-pig-rape-room.html\">worse\u003c/a>); it's far more collaborative and flexible, casual and supportive even at its upper echelons. Though its ethos is often \u003ca href=\"http://www.grubstreet.com/2015/12/pizza-hut-sexist-swag.html\">far from feminist\u003c/a>, pizza making can be a very feminine craft in the way that it doesn't cling to the rules of a male-dominated kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Kelly opened her Colorado pizzeria in 2015, after earning a degree from Le Cordon Bleu, her father urged her to include her name in the title. He and her mother have run a local chain of bagel shops for decades, but they're widely seen as \"his.\" He wanted better for his daughter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first, Kelly's kitchen was all men (and her). Now it's 50-50, and some days is all women. \"I think of gender equality as craft, as rewarding balance,\" she said. \"We've had men who haven't worked out because they don't want to listen to a woman, which I know because they'd listen if my husband told them the same thing I did.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now some of these women are banding together — including Kelly, Meyer, and Russell — to make Women In Pizza a movement like \u003ca href=\"https://www.wbur.org/onpoint/2019/02/04/girls-who-code-reshma-saujani-brave-not-perfect\">Girls Who Code\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.whitecoatsblackdoctors.org/\">White Coats Black Doctors\u003c/a>. A formal alliance debuted in September: \u003ca href=\"http://www.womeninpizza.com/\">www.womeninpizza.com\u003c/a>. And this year the \u003ca href=\"https://www.worldpizzachampions.com/\">World Pizza Champions\u003c/a>, a kind of industry Justice League, increased its female members from 3 to 5 (out of 39 active members).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Is it lame to say I do it just because it's fun?\" said Tara Hattan, who said she is the only female pizza maker in her town of Broken Arrow, Okla. \"Girls come just to see me do my \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/cbC8ZUo975I\">pizza acrobatics\u003c/a>. I get to be the inspiration or role model or just example I wish I had when I was younger. That's why I bring my \u003ca href=\"http://www.prodoughusa.com/\">ProDough\u003c/a> everywhere, out to bars or parties. I want everyone to know women can do this, because they've seen so with their own eyes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Women in pizza still have frustrations, of course, but flagrant sexism is abating. \"Ugh,\" Meyer groaned in Naples last month, readjusting her trophy for a moment as an Italian television crew scampered over to interview her about her victory. \"I'm going to have to wear my hair down.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://charmandrigor.com/\">\u003cem>Richard Morgan\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a freelance writer in New York, is the author of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Bedlam-Kindle-Single-Richard-Morgan-ebook/dp/B00WH0F2QS\">\u003cem>Born in Bedlam\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a memoir. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_132814,bayareabites_125020' target=_blank label='More on Brown Sugar Kitchen']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is power.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was how Maryam Ahmed, the Culinary Institute of America’s Director of Public Programs, opened “\u003ca href=\"https://www.ciaatcopia.com/conversations-at-copia/\">Conversations at Copia\u003c/a>,” the live talk series hosted by James Beard Award winner \u003ca href=\"https://andrewzimmern.com/\">Andrew Zimmern\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Held at downtown Napa’s Culinary Institute of America (CIA) at Copia, September 7th’s discussion entitled “Culture & Cuisine” included panelists Rick Bayless of \u003ca href=\"https://www.rickbayless.com/restaurants/frontera-grill/\">Frontera Grill\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.brownsugarkitchen.com/\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/a>’s Tayna Holland, \u003ca href=\"https://lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a>'s program manager Emiliana Puyana, and “The Cooking Gene” author \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/\">Michael Twitty\u003c/a>. Over roughly 90 minutes, each esteemed food expert attempted to answer the question “What does it mean to be authentic and who gets to cook what?” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About halfway through, Zimmern repeated those opening words. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is power. And history tells us that those who have that power want to keep it.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134842\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston.jpg\" alt='\"Conversations at Copia\" panelists (left to right) Tanya Holland, Rick Bayless, Michael Twitty, and Emiliana Puyana with host Andrew Zimmern (center).' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134842\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Conversations at Copia\" panelists (left to right) Tanya Holland, Rick Bayless, Michael Twitty, and Emiliana Puyana with host Andrew Zimmern (center). \u003ccite>(Emily Johnston)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>White males, no surprise there, have predominantly held that power—specifically the white males cooking French and Italian cuisine. The cuisine that’s the most revered, the “most respected, elevated of cuisines,” as Holland put it. “You’re thought of as an expert if you can cook those cuisines.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it doesn’t take much to look back at America’s culinary history and see that people of color were predominantly the ones in the kitchen. If one looked even a bit further, those people were revered for their unique cooking styles just as much as the white men cooking French and Italian are today.\u003cbr>\n[pullquote size='medium' align='left' citation='Andrew Zimmern']'Food is power. And history tells us that those who have that power want to keep it.'[/pullquote]\u003cbr>\n“People, going back hundreds of years, have always created a mythology around who is cooking our food,” said Zimmern. “But for the vast majority of restaurants in this nation, the food we consume is done by people of color. A lot of that is based on maintaining the current power structure.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chefs on CIA’s stage built their culinary careers by cooking a cuisine that doesn’t tell the same story as everyone else. Their journey hasn’t been pretty; there’s been no “baton being passed,” as Holland put it, to lead them to culinary glory. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134845\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel.jpg\" alt='Andrew Zimmern moderated the first live talk series \"Conversations at Copia\" on September 7, 2019.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134845\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrew Zimmern moderated the first live talk series \"Conversations at Copia\" on September 7, 2019. \u003ccite>(Emily Johnston)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I had not seen a lot of people who looked like me cook the food I wanted, where the food, room, and service was elevated,” said Holland.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_120369,bayareabites_94637' target=_blank label='More from Michael Twitty']\u003cbr>\nHolland has elevated the cuisine she knows and loves—specifically modern soul—but it hasn’t been easy. She made a home for her restaurant, Brown Sugar Kitchen, in Oakland in part because it was the only neighborhood where landlords would rent to her. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It didn’t matter that she had 20 years of experience, she explained to the packed crowd; it only seemed to matter that she didn’t have restaurant experience—or that’s what she was told. Today, Holland still isn’t where she wants to be but she strives to get there so that the next generation can look to her for guidance. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Holland, Twitty has an uphill battle ahead to reach, what he says, his goal to become the “first black colonial antebellum masterchef since slavery.” Why? A black child born in America won’t have “the same resources passed down to [them as white people]. And even if you do come from money, your dollar is not worth that of a white man.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In “\u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/young-guns-rising-stars/2019/7/11/20688135/american-culinary-schools-problem-french-curriculum\">The (Mis)education of America’s culinary schools\u003c/a>,” writer Korsha Wilson asks why culinary schools like the CIA aren’t spending more time diving into regional cuisines like they do the traditional ones. “If you think about what it takes to make a mole sauce, or what it takes to make gumbo, it’s still the same level of time commitment and technique and expertise [as French and Italian cuisine], so why isn’t it valued in the same way?” asked Holland.\u003cbr>\n[aside tag='la-cocina' label='More About La Cocina' num='2' target=_blank align='left']\u003cbr>\nOutside of the kitchen, equilibrium in the food world can only happen when our society stops assigning a certain price tag or level of service with only one type of cuisine but not another. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is unfairly priced in America,” adds Zimmern. “and it’s designed to maintain an underclass.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elevated cuisine can’t just have a decorated or celebrated chef cooking it; the diner also needs to accept the lengthy food journey attached with each pretty plate. “For a strawberry to end up on your plate, it’s passed through many hands,” Puyana reminded everyone. “We need to accept the fact that food needs to cost more. And when we’re paying more for a pretty plate, we aren’t just paying for the design but paying for the labor that brought it to you.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134844\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless.jpg\" alt=\"Andrew Zimmern listens on as Rick Bayless answers a question from the crowd.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134844\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrew Zimmern listens on as Rick Bayless answers a question from the crowd. \u003ccite>(Emily Johnston)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Food is powerful, yes. But it’s only as powerful as the diners, cooking community, food media, and chefs deems worthy. Part of this series isn’t just about spotlighting the work needed to find harmony within the kitchen, but also educating guests about the inequality in today’s food history. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once diners accept that all cuisine is worthy of elevating, food equilibrium will come. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>--- \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next “\u003ca href=\"https://www.ciaatcopia.com/conversations-at-copia/\">Conversations at Copia\u003c/a>” will be held on October 26 featuring Daniel Giusti of Brigaid, Matt Jozwiak from Rethink Food NYC, and Michel Nischan from Wholesome Wave. The final event in the series will be on December 7 around the topic “Setting the Equity Table.” \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is power.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was how Maryam Ahmed, the Culinary Institute of America’s Director of Public Programs, opened “\u003ca href=\"https://www.ciaatcopia.com/conversations-at-copia/\">Conversations at Copia\u003c/a>,” the live talk series hosted by James Beard Award winner \u003ca href=\"https://andrewzimmern.com/\">Andrew Zimmern\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Held at downtown Napa’s Culinary Institute of America (CIA) at Copia, September 7th’s discussion entitled “Culture & Cuisine” included panelists Rick Bayless of \u003ca href=\"https://www.rickbayless.com/restaurants/frontera-grill/\">Frontera Grill\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.brownsugarkitchen.com/\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/a>’s Tayna Holland, \u003ca href=\"https://lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a>'s program manager Emiliana Puyana, and “The Cooking Gene” author \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/\">Michael Twitty\u003c/a>. Over roughly 90 minutes, each esteemed food expert attempted to answer the question “What does it mean to be authentic and who gets to cook what?” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About halfway through, Zimmern repeated those opening words. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is power. And history tells us that those who have that power want to keep it.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134842\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston.jpg\" alt='\"Conversations at Copia\" panelists (left to right) Tanya Holland, Rick Bayless, Michael Twitty, and Emiliana Puyana with host Andrew Zimmern (center).' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134842\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Conversations at Copia\" panelists (left to right) Tanya Holland, Rick Bayless, Michael Twitty, and Emiliana Puyana with host Andrew Zimmern (center). \u003ccite>(Emily Johnston)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>White males, no surprise there, have predominantly held that power—specifically the white males cooking French and Italian cuisine. The cuisine that’s the most revered, the “most respected, elevated of cuisines,” as Holland put it. “You’re thought of as an expert if you can cook those cuisines.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it doesn’t take much to look back at America’s culinary history and see that people of color were predominantly the ones in the kitchen. If one looked even a bit further, those people were revered for their unique cooking styles just as much as the white men cooking French and Italian are today.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n“People, going back hundreds of years, have always created a mythology around who is cooking our food,” said Zimmern. “But for the vast majority of restaurants in this nation, the food we consume is done by people of color. A lot of that is based on maintaining the current power structure.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chefs on CIA’s stage built their culinary careers by cooking a cuisine that doesn’t tell the same story as everyone else. Their journey hasn’t been pretty; there’s been no “baton being passed,” as Holland put it, to lead them to culinary glory. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134845\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel.jpg\" alt='Andrew Zimmern moderated the first live talk series \"Conversations at Copia\" on September 7, 2019.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134845\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrew Zimmern moderated the first live talk series \"Conversations at Copia\" on September 7, 2019. \u003ccite>(Emily Johnston)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I had not seen a lot of people who looked like me cook the food I wanted, where the food, room, and service was elevated,” said Holland.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nHolland has elevated the cuisine she knows and loves—specifically modern soul—but it hasn’t been easy. She made a home for her restaurant, Brown Sugar Kitchen, in Oakland in part because it was the only neighborhood where landlords would rent to her. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It didn’t matter that she had 20 years of experience, she explained to the packed crowd; it only seemed to matter that she didn’t have restaurant experience—or that’s what she was told. Today, Holland still isn’t where she wants to be but she strives to get there so that the next generation can look to her for guidance. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Holland, Twitty has an uphill battle ahead to reach, what he says, his goal to become the “first black colonial antebellum masterchef since slavery.” Why? A black child born in America won’t have “the same resources passed down to [them as white people]. And even if you do come from money, your dollar is not worth that of a white man.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In “\u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/young-guns-rising-stars/2019/7/11/20688135/american-culinary-schools-problem-french-curriculum\">The (Mis)education of America’s culinary schools\u003c/a>,” writer Korsha Wilson asks why culinary schools like the CIA aren’t spending more time diving into regional cuisines like they do the traditional ones. “If you think about what it takes to make a mole sauce, or what it takes to make gumbo, it’s still the same level of time commitment and technique and expertise [as French and Italian cuisine], so why isn’t it valued in the same way?” asked Holland.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nOutside of the kitchen, equilibrium in the food world can only happen when our society stops assigning a certain price tag or level of service with only one type of cuisine but not another. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is unfairly priced in America,” adds Zimmern. “and it’s designed to maintain an underclass.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elevated cuisine can’t just have a decorated or celebrated chef cooking it; the diner also needs to accept the lengthy food journey attached with each pretty plate. “For a strawberry to end up on your plate, it’s passed through many hands,” Puyana reminded everyone. “We need to accept the fact that food needs to cost more. And when we’re paying more for a pretty plate, we aren’t just paying for the design but paying for the labor that brought it to you.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134844\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless.jpg\" alt=\"Andrew Zimmern listens on as Rick Bayless answers a question from the crowd.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134844\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrew Zimmern listens on as Rick Bayless answers a question from the crowd. \u003ccite>(Emily Johnston)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Food is powerful, yes. But it’s only as powerful as the diners, cooking community, food media, and chefs deems worthy. Part of this series isn’t just about spotlighting the work needed to find harmony within the kitchen, but also educating guests about the inequality in today’s food history. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once diners accept that all cuisine is worthy of elevating, food equilibrium will come. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>--- \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next “\u003ca href=\"https://www.ciaatcopia.com/conversations-at-copia/\">Conversations at Copia\u003c/a>” will be held on October 26 featuring Daniel Giusti of Brigaid, Matt Jozwiak from Rethink Food NYC, and Michel Nischan from Wholesome Wave. The final event in the series will be on December 7 around the topic “Setting the Equity Table.” \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>An 11-year-old boy recently hit up 53-year-old Roger Wade on LinkedIn, wishing to open a restaurant one day. Wade wrote back: Why not now?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Wade, CEO of \u003ca href=\"https://www.boxpark.co.uk/\">Boxpark\u003c/a>, a chain of hip food halls in London, was 11 years old himself, he sold candy to his schoolmates. He cited that memory as a heartstring plucked by Omari McQueen, the \u003ca href=\"https://uk.linkedin.com/in/omari-mcqueen-a33939168\">11-year-old LinkedIn user\u003c/a>. \"Age doesn't define a person any more than gender or race does,\" Wade said. \"We were happy to support a dream. Omari is a role model for dreaming big.\"\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_131003,bayareabites_130171' label='More on Kids and Cooking']\u003cbr>\nWade waived the £1,000 rent for a weeklong pop-up at Boxpark's Croydon location, freeing McQueen to bill himself as the \"world's youngest restaurateur\" — even younger than \u003ca href=\"https://www.kcrw.com/culture/shows/the-document/chef-flynn\">Flynn McGarry\u003c/a>, who, in 2011, became a foodie wunderkind at 11 1/2 by running a restaurant out of his California home (and charging $160 a head when he debuted in New York).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McQueen debuted Dipalicious, his vegan Caribbean spot, in the same food hall as Goat, a Jamaican restaurant run by \u003ca href=\"https://www.boxpark.co.uk/blog/introducing-goat/\">James Cochran\u003c/a>, the 2018 \u003cem>Great British Menu\u003c/em> champion of champions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>McQueen's pop-up week spanned a week in August, which was a very busy month for him. A few days before Dipalicious, opened, he appeared on \u003cem>Step Up to the Plate\u003c/em>, a BBC food competition in which children jostle to showcase their restaurant skills. (He had already \u003ca href=\"https://www.bbc.co.uk/newsround/47063786\">taught\u003c/a> the BBC's \u003cem>Newsround\u003c/em> how to make vegan shepherd's pie.) McQueen did not advance in the competition, even though celebrity chef Liam Charles scored his beetroot risotto a 9.5 out of 10.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm not bothered,\" McQueen said recently as he peeled potatoes in Dipalicious' kitchen. \"I skipped ahead to having my own proper restaurant anyway.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now he enjoys a childhood of industrial blenders for Christmas, iPad breaks to play \u003cem>Cooking Mama\u003c/em> and international fame, but it wasn't always so giddy. When McQueen was 7, his stay-at-home mother said she began suffering from hemiplegic migraines, which would paralyze half her body for up to 24 hours. In order to make sure her six kids got fed, she said she tried teaching her eldest child to cook, but it was McQueen, second-eldest, who took to it. His father, the son of Jamaican immigrants, had barely taught McQueen how to fry fish before the precocious young chef stumbled upon a \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/user/officialpeta\">PETA video\u003c/a> on YouTube and became \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/01/07/683015303/planting-a-seed-the-vegan-diet-in-2019\">vegan\u003c/a>, joining \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2018/apr/01/vegans-are-coming-millennials-health-climate-change-animal-welfare\">a British renaissance\u003c/a> in plant-based eating. (Similarly, McGarry's early signature dish was a \u003ca href=\"https://www.vogue.com/article/gem-restaurant-chef-flynn-mcgarry-must-eat-beet\">beet Wellington\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McQueen approaches his veganism with kids-say-the-darndest-things candor, leaving carrots and almond milk out for Santa, along with a note telling him why he should be vegan. Or asking attendees at a vegan conference — for which he sat as \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/Wk_nQO4dl1w\">an expert in a panel discussion\u003c/a> — to raise their hands if they're not vegan, then asking them plainly, \"Why are you not vegan?\" On a national evening news program, he said \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/GIEx90nygzs\">milk is \"cows' pus\"\u003c/a> (because of common \u003ca href=\"https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mastitis_in_dairy_cattle\">mastitis\u003c/a>). Does he ever drink Coca-Cola? \"No, it's used to \u003ca href=\"https://www.businessinsider.com/i-tried-cleaning-my-toilet-with-coke-and-it-actually-works-2017-12\">clean toilets\u003c/a>.\" But his candor cuts both ways: On his televised food competition, he called \u003ca href=\"https://www.pbs.org/video/what-is-natto-vsmi1w/\">natto\u003c/a> \"disgusting.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although he is often cited as an \"award-winning chef,\" the awards he has won have been for vegan compassion and entrepreneurship, not cooking — yet. Whereas McGarry was re-creating labyrinthine recipes from \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2014/07/19/332570027/not-my-job-french-laundry-chef-thomas-keller-gets-quizzed-on-actual-laundry\">The French Laundry Cookbook\u003c/a>, the go-tos of McQueen's separate \u003ca href=\"https://www.dipalicious.co.uk/\">Dipalicious\u003c/a> food brand are easy purees and smoothies. His vegan Caribbean offerings at Boxpark showcased simple, on-trend dishes including pumpkin soup (£7), barbecue jackfruit with breadfruit chips (£8) and callaloo (£8). While it's easy for Caribbean spice to punch the tongue with heat, his hugs it with flavor: Omari umami. Dipalicious sold no desserts except for its sweet namesake dipping sauces (£4.99) — a puree of peaches and pears with nutmeg, for example. McQueen also made sure to offer smaller-portioned kids' meals (£3.99), although child vegans are \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/08/24/health/vegan-parents-malnourished-baby.html\">controversial\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McQueen's next big-picture dream is to convert a bus to a food truck and drive around the country with his father, a bus driver, evangelizing veganism's moral and nutritional imperatives. \"You can tell people that food is healthy or kind to animals,\" he said while eating dairy-free raspberry ice cream from \u003ca href=\"https://whatthepitta.com/\">What The Pitta\u003c/a>, the other vegan shop at Boxpark Croydon, \"but they won't care unless the food is fun and delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Celebrity is a big part of his thinking as well — he has met actor Daniel Radcliffe and British television stars — and so he has a more immediate goal in mind by his 12th birthday in May next year: He aches to meet \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=103321043\">Gordon Ramsay\u003c/a>. \"He's like a superhero. His superpower is being a chef who shouts,\" he said. \"I love to cook and make delicious food, but I want to learn how to do it while shouting, because that looks fun.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>A short game of \"... Or Gordon Ramsay?\" followed:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Who would you choose between [your favorite athlete,] Alexis Sánchez or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Barack Obama or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Queen Elizabeth or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Spider-Man or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Santa Claus or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>When a recent Dipalicious customer was confused to be greeted by an 11-year-old's firm handshake and a lecture on the benefits of jackfruit, McQueen pointed to a photo on the wall of himself in a tuxedo. (He bought it when he was 10 — \"but it still fits me.\")\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm in charge here. This is my restaurant,\" he said. The customer — Chris Tagoe, a 38-year-old IT developer — walked out with pumpkin soup and vegetable curry. \"I wouldn't normally go vegan or veg,\" said Tagoe, \"but he's really nice.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With his pop-up closed, McQueen is back to his YouTube channel, where his vegan pizza recipe includes an \"Uptown Funk\" dance break, and he sometimes offers left-field advice on how to become a millionaire, though he isn't one himself. Home-schooled until now, he begins public school in the fall, although he'll still sell his sauces and prepacked vegan meals after school. \"I'm ready for the world,\" he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://charmandrigor.com/\">Richard Morgan\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a freelance writer in New York, is the author of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Bedlam-Kindle-Single-Richard-Morgan-ebook/dp/B00WH0F2QS\">Born in Bedlam\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a memoir.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/09/10/755469712/this-rising-star-chef-is-black-vegan-and-only-11-years-old\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>An 11-year-old boy recently hit up 53-year-old Roger Wade on LinkedIn, wishing to open a restaurant one day. Wade wrote back: Why not now?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Wade, CEO of \u003ca href=\"https://www.boxpark.co.uk/\">Boxpark\u003c/a>, a chain of hip food halls in London, was 11 years old himself, he sold candy to his schoolmates. He cited that memory as a heartstring plucked by Omari McQueen, the \u003ca href=\"https://uk.linkedin.com/in/omari-mcqueen-a33939168\">11-year-old LinkedIn user\u003c/a>. \"Age doesn't define a person any more than gender or race does,\" Wade said. \"We were happy to support a dream. Omari is a role model for dreaming big.\"\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nWade waived the £1,000 rent for a weeklong pop-up at Boxpark's Croydon location, freeing McQueen to bill himself as the \"world's youngest restaurateur\" — even younger than \u003ca href=\"https://www.kcrw.com/culture/shows/the-document/chef-flynn\">Flynn McGarry\u003c/a>, who, in 2011, became a foodie wunderkind at 11 1/2 by running a restaurant out of his California home (and charging $160 a head when he debuted in New York).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McQueen debuted Dipalicious, his vegan Caribbean spot, in the same food hall as Goat, a Jamaican restaurant run by \u003ca href=\"https://www.boxpark.co.uk/blog/introducing-goat/\">James Cochran\u003c/a>, the 2018 \u003cem>Great British Menu\u003c/em> champion of champions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>McQueen's pop-up week spanned a week in August, which was a very busy month for him. A few days before Dipalicious, opened, he appeared on \u003cem>Step Up to the Plate\u003c/em>, a BBC food competition in which children jostle to showcase their restaurant skills. (He had already \u003ca href=\"https://www.bbc.co.uk/newsround/47063786\">taught\u003c/a> the BBC's \u003cem>Newsround\u003c/em> how to make vegan shepherd's pie.) McQueen did not advance in the competition, even though celebrity chef Liam Charles scored his beetroot risotto a 9.5 out of 10.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm not bothered,\" McQueen said recently as he peeled potatoes in Dipalicious' kitchen. \"I skipped ahead to having my own proper restaurant anyway.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now he enjoys a childhood of industrial blenders for Christmas, iPad breaks to play \u003cem>Cooking Mama\u003c/em> and international fame, but it wasn't always so giddy. When McQueen was 7, his stay-at-home mother said she began suffering from hemiplegic migraines, which would paralyze half her body for up to 24 hours. In order to make sure her six kids got fed, she said she tried teaching her eldest child to cook, but it was McQueen, second-eldest, who took to it. His father, the son of Jamaican immigrants, had barely taught McQueen how to fry fish before the precocious young chef stumbled upon a \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/user/officialpeta\">PETA video\u003c/a> on YouTube and became \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/01/07/683015303/planting-a-seed-the-vegan-diet-in-2019\">vegan\u003c/a>, joining \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2018/apr/01/vegans-are-coming-millennials-health-climate-change-animal-welfare\">a British renaissance\u003c/a> in plant-based eating. (Similarly, McGarry's early signature dish was a \u003ca href=\"https://www.vogue.com/article/gem-restaurant-chef-flynn-mcgarry-must-eat-beet\">beet Wellington\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McQueen approaches his veganism with kids-say-the-darndest-things candor, leaving carrots and almond milk out for Santa, along with a note telling him why he should be vegan. Or asking attendees at a vegan conference — for which he sat as \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/Wk_nQO4dl1w\">an expert in a panel discussion\u003c/a> — to raise their hands if they're not vegan, then asking them plainly, \"Why are you not vegan?\" On a national evening news program, he said \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/GIEx90nygzs\">milk is \"cows' pus\"\u003c/a> (because of common \u003ca href=\"https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mastitis_in_dairy_cattle\">mastitis\u003c/a>). Does he ever drink Coca-Cola? \"No, it's used to \u003ca href=\"https://www.businessinsider.com/i-tried-cleaning-my-toilet-with-coke-and-it-actually-works-2017-12\">clean toilets\u003c/a>.\" But his candor cuts both ways: On his televised food competition, he called \u003ca href=\"https://www.pbs.org/video/what-is-natto-vsmi1w/\">natto\u003c/a> \"disgusting.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although he is often cited as an \"award-winning chef,\" the awards he has won have been for vegan compassion and entrepreneurship, not cooking — yet. Whereas McGarry was re-creating labyrinthine recipes from \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2014/07/19/332570027/not-my-job-french-laundry-chef-thomas-keller-gets-quizzed-on-actual-laundry\">The French Laundry Cookbook\u003c/a>, the go-tos of McQueen's separate \u003ca href=\"https://www.dipalicious.co.uk/\">Dipalicious\u003c/a> food brand are easy purees and smoothies. His vegan Caribbean offerings at Boxpark showcased simple, on-trend dishes including pumpkin soup (£7), barbecue jackfruit with breadfruit chips (£8) and callaloo (£8). While it's easy for Caribbean spice to punch the tongue with heat, his hugs it with flavor: Omari umami. Dipalicious sold no desserts except for its sweet namesake dipping sauces (£4.99) — a puree of peaches and pears with nutmeg, for example. McQueen also made sure to offer smaller-portioned kids' meals (£3.99), although child vegans are \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/08/24/health/vegan-parents-malnourished-baby.html\">controversial\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McQueen's next big-picture dream is to convert a bus to a food truck and drive around the country with his father, a bus driver, evangelizing veganism's moral and nutritional imperatives. \"You can tell people that food is healthy or kind to animals,\" he said while eating dairy-free raspberry ice cream from \u003ca href=\"https://whatthepitta.com/\">What The Pitta\u003c/a>, the other vegan shop at Boxpark Croydon, \"but they won't care unless the food is fun and delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Celebrity is a big part of his thinking as well — he has met actor Daniel Radcliffe and British television stars — and so he has a more immediate goal in mind by his 12th birthday in May next year: He aches to meet \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=103321043\">Gordon Ramsay\u003c/a>. \"He's like a superhero. His superpower is being a chef who shouts,\" he said. \"I love to cook and make delicious food, but I want to learn how to do it while shouting, because that looks fun.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>A short game of \"... Or Gordon Ramsay?\" followed:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Who would you choose between [your favorite athlete,] Alexis Sánchez or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Barack Obama or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Queen Elizabeth or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Spider-Man or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NPR:\u003c/strong> Santa Claus or Gordon Ramsay?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>McQueen:\u003c/strong> Gordon Ramsay.\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>When a recent Dipalicious customer was confused to be greeted by an 11-year-old's firm handshake and a lecture on the benefits of jackfruit, McQueen pointed to a photo on the wall of himself in a tuxedo. (He bought it when he was 10 — \"but it still fits me.\")\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm in charge here. This is my restaurant,\" he said. The customer — Chris Tagoe, a 38-year-old IT developer — walked out with pumpkin soup and vegetable curry. \"I wouldn't normally go vegan or veg,\" said Tagoe, \"but he's really nice.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With his pop-up closed, McQueen is back to his YouTube channel, where his vegan pizza recipe includes an \"Uptown Funk\" dance break, and he sometimes offers left-field advice on how to become a millionaire, though he isn't one himself. Home-schooled until now, he begins public school in the fall, although he'll still sell his sauces and prepacked vegan meals after school. \"I'm ready for the world,\" he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://charmandrigor.com/\">Richard Morgan\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a freelance writer in New York, is the author of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Bedlam-Kindle-Single-Richard-Morgan-ebook/dp/B00WH0F2QS\">Born in Bedlam\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a memoir.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/09/10/755469712/this-rising-star-chef-is-black-vegan-and-only-11-years-old\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Celebrity Chefs Recipes: Traci Des Jardins's Petrale Sole with Braised Celery Root and Roasted Beets",
"title": "Celebrity Chefs Recipes: Traci Des Jardins's Petrale Sole with Braised Celery Root and Roasted Beets",
"headTitle": "Celebrity Chefs Recipes | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ci>Photos: \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/vicchin/\">Vic Chin\u003c/a>, Video: Vic Chin and Peter Ruocco, Words & Recipe: Traci Des Jardins\u003c/i>\u003cbr>\n[aside tag='celebrity-chefs' num='2' label='More Celebrity Chefs Recipes']\u003cbr>\nThis was one of the original Jardinière recipes when we opened in 1997. The bright, sweet acidity of the Meyer lemon, combined with the floral, earthy beets and celery root makes for a lovely, light fall preparation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It remains, to this day, one of my favorite dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Petrale Sole with Olive Oil Braised Celery Root and Roasted Beets\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Serves 6\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134520\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/DSCF5437.jpg\" alt=\"Traci Des Jardins's Petrale Sole with Braised Celery Root and Roasted Beets\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134520\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/DSCF5437.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/DSCF5437-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/DSCF5437-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/DSCF5437-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/DSCF5437-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/DSCF5437-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traci Des Jardins's Petrale Sole with Braised Celery Root and Roasted Beets \u003ccite>(Vic Chin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 bunch baby gold beets\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 bunch baby chioggia beets\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Salt and Pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ cup white wine\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ cup vegetable stock\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 bulb celery root, cleaned with skin removed and cut into 2-inch long batonnets\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ cup extra virgin olive oil, divided\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Six 6-oz. portions of petrale sole or any white fleshed fish, such as halibut, sole or bass\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons grapeseed oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Juice and zest of one Meyer lemon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 bunch chervil, washed, leaves picked\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 bunch tarragon, picked and lightly chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 bunch chives, finely minced\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Celery root and beets instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Preheat the oven to 350ºF.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place the beets on a sheet of foil large enough to fully enclose them, drizzle with the olive oil and season well with salt and pepper.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Wrap the beets securely in the foil, and place on a sheet pan. Cook until tender throughout, about 35-45 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Allow to cool, then peel and halve or quarter, depending on size. Set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, reduce the white wine until almost completely evaporated.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Carefully add the vegetable stock; remove from the heat and set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Heat a saute pan over medium heat and add 4 tablespoons of the extra-virgin olive oil.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the celery root; sweat, stirring occasionally, for 3 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the stock and wine mixture; cover and cook over medium-low heat until the celery root is tender, about 6-8 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove from the heat and set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sole Instructions: \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Season filets with salt and pepper.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Heat a non-stick skillet over medium-high heat until very hot; add the grapeseed oil.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the filets and cook until the fish begins to brown, about 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium, turn the fish over, and cook for another minute.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Transfer the fish to a platter and keep warm.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the cooked beets and lemon zest to the celery root mixture and warm through.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the lemon juice and remaining 4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, shaking the pan to blend the olive oil and stock together.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Stir in ½ of the chervil and tarragon and season to taste with salt and pepper.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To serve, place a generous spoonful of the vegetable and sauce mixture into a shallow bowl and place a piece of fish on top.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Garnish with the remaining chervil, tarragon, and the chives; serve immediately.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134527\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/traci-petrale-sole-final.jpg\" alt=\"Traci Des Jardins holds a plate of her Petrale Sole with Braised Celery Root and Roasted Beets\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134527\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/traci-petrale-sole-final.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/traci-petrale-sole-final-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/traci-petrale-sole-final-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/traci-petrale-sole-final-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/traci-petrale-sole-final-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/traci-petrale-sole-final-1200x675.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traci Des Jardins holds a plate of her Petrale Sole with Braised Celery Root and Roasted Beets \u003ccite>(Vic Chin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nThis was one of the original Jardinière recipes when we opened in 1997. The bright, sweet acidity of the Meyer lemon, combined with the floral, earthy beets and celery root makes for a lovely, light fall preparation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It remains, to this day, one of my favorite dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Petrale Sole with Olive Oil Braised Celery Root and Roasted Beets\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Serves 6\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134520\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/DSCF5437.jpg\" alt=\"Traci Des Jardins's Petrale Sole with Braised Celery Root and Roasted Beets\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134520\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/DSCF5437.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/DSCF5437-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/DSCF5437-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/DSCF5437-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/DSCF5437-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/DSCF5437-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traci Des Jardins's Petrale Sole with Braised Celery Root and Roasted Beets \u003ccite>(Vic Chin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 bunch baby gold beets\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 bunch baby chioggia beets\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Salt and Pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ cup white wine\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ cup vegetable stock\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 bulb celery root, cleaned with skin removed and cut into 2-inch long batonnets\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ cup extra virgin olive oil, divided\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Six 6-oz. portions of petrale sole or any white fleshed fish, such as halibut, sole or bass\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons grapeseed oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Juice and zest of one Meyer lemon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 bunch chervil, washed, leaves picked\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 bunch tarragon, picked and lightly chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 bunch chives, finely minced\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Celery root and beets instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Preheat the oven to 350ºF.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place the beets on a sheet of foil large enough to fully enclose them, drizzle with the olive oil and season well with salt and pepper.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Wrap the beets securely in the foil, and place on a sheet pan. Cook until tender throughout, about 35-45 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Allow to cool, then peel and halve or quarter, depending on size. Set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, reduce the white wine until almost completely evaporated.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Carefully add the vegetable stock; remove from the heat and set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Heat a saute pan over medium heat and add 4 tablespoons of the extra-virgin olive oil.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the celery root; sweat, stirring occasionally, for 3 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the stock and wine mixture; cover and cook over medium-low heat until the celery root is tender, about 6-8 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove from the heat and set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sole Instructions: \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Season filets with salt and pepper.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Heat a non-stick skillet over medium-high heat until very hot; add the grapeseed oil.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the filets and cook until the fish begins to brown, about 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium, turn the fish over, and cook for another minute.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Transfer the fish to a platter and keep warm.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the cooked beets and lemon zest to the celery root mixture and warm through.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the lemon juice and remaining 4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, shaking the pan to blend the olive oil and stock together.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Stir in ½ of the chervil and tarragon and season to taste with salt and pepper.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To serve, place a generous spoonful of the vegetable and sauce mixture into a shallow bowl and place a piece of fish on top.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Garnish with the remaining chervil, tarragon, and the chives; serve immediately.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134527\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/traci-petrale-sole-final.jpg\" alt=\"Traci Des Jardins holds a plate of her Petrale Sole with Braised Celery Root and Roasted Beets\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134527\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/traci-petrale-sole-final.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/traci-petrale-sole-final-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/traci-petrale-sole-final-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/traci-petrale-sole-final-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/traci-petrale-sole-final-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/traci-petrale-sole-final-1200x675.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traci Des Jardins holds a plate of her Petrale Sole with Braised Celery Root and Roasted Beets \u003ccite>(Vic Chin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?",
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},
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"id": "baycurious",
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"tagline": "Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time",
"info": "KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.",
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},
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},
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"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
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"order": 8
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"tagline": "Your state, your stories",
"info": "Every week, The California Report Magazine takes you on a road trip for the ears: to visit the places and meet the people who make California unique. The in-depth storytelling podcast from the California Report.",
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"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
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"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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"order": 1
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"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 9
},
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"meta": {
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"source": "WNYC"
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"hidden-brain": {
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"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
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"source": "NPR"
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"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
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"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"order": 18
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},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
}
},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
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