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It's expensive — a delicacy and status symbol in Chinese culture that's served during banquets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The soup is a hotly debated item in both the scientific and political communities, and it's illegal in 12 states, including Hawaii, Illinois and Texas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Congress is once again considering a federal ban on the shark fin trade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two bipartisan bills, \u003ca href=\"https://www.congress.gov/bill/115th-congress/house-bill/1456\">one in the House\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.congress.gov/bill/115th-congress/senate-bill/793\">one in the Senate\u003c/a>, would make it illegal to possess, buy, sell or transport shark fins in the United States. \u003ca href=\"https://www.congress.gov/bill/114th-congress/house-bill/5584/text\">House\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.congress.gov/bill/114th-congress/senate-bill/3095/all-actions?overview=closed%23tabs\">Senate\u003c/a> politicians introduced similar bills last year, but they didn't make it out of committee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new Senate bill \u003ca href=\"https://www.congress.gov/bill/115th-congress/senate-bill/793/text\">asserts that\u003c/a> many shark populations are in peril worldwide, and that some fishermen harvest shark fins by finning, a \"cruel practice in which the fins of a shark are cut off\" on a ship at sea, and the rest of the animal is \"then thrown back into the water to drown, starve or die a slow death.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0308597X13000055?via%253Dihub\">2013 study\u003c/a> in the journal \u003cem>Marine Policy\u003c/em> estimates that between 63 and 273 million sharks are killed each year, including those killed for their fins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But not all scientists agree that banning shark fins would be the way to protect sharks. Last month, two marine biologists wrote in\u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0308597X17304384?via%253Dihub\"> \u003c/a>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0308597X17304384?via%253Dihub\">Marine Policy\u003c/a>\u003c/em> that a ban would not prevent sharks from being killed worldwide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>David Shiffman, a marine biologist who co-wrote the article, studies sharks at Simon Fraser University in British Columbia, Canada. He says that shark fisheries in the U.S. harvest sharks sustainably, shark finning has \u003ca href=\"https://www.congress.gov/bill/106th-congress/house-bill/5461\">already been banned\u003c/a>, and if the U.S. just withdraws from the shark trade altogether, it'll be harder to encourage other countries to follow the U.S. lead in adopting the same kinds of policies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a lot easier to say, 'You should do it this way, see we're doing it and it works,' than it is to say, 'You should do it this way, pay no attention to the fact that we're not involved anymore,' \" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scientist Neil Hammerschlag of the University of Miami pushes back on that argument, explaining that the U.S. can only lead by example for countries that have the same resources that the U.S. does, including infrastructure to enforce fisheries management.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"But the same policies would not work in some of the big fishing countries which don't really have the capacity,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several conservation groups, including the nonprofit Oceana, \u003ca href=\"http://usa.oceana.org/sites/default/files/sharkfinbanrebuttal.pdf\">responded to Shiffman's article against the ban in \u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://usa.oceana.org/sites/default/files/sharkfinbanrebuttal.pdf\">Marine Policy\u003c/a>, saying that if the U.S. allows imports of shark fins from countries that don't have sustainable practices, like Myanmar and China, then it is \"complicit in the catch of at-risk species and condoning their lack of finning regulations.\" They say they support the bill because it aims to eliminate U.S. demand for shark fins altogether.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lora Snyder, an Oceana campaign director for responsible fishing and sharks, explains why she thinks the U.S. should just get out of the global fin trade altogether:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Demand for shark fins is one of the primary drivers of population declines of these species,\" she says, drawing a comparison between shark fins and the ivory trade. It is a global problem, she says, which \"needs a global solution.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Snyder points out that 150 scientists came out in support of the shark fin ban — in \u003ca href=\"http://usa.oceana.org/sites/default/files/usfintradeban_scientistletter_final.pdf\">an open letter of support\u003c/a>, they called shark conservation \"one of the most pressing biodiversity issues today.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Science is saying sharks are in trouble,\" Snyder says. \"It's necessary to look at policy solutions that are rooted in science through multiple lenses.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shelley Clarke is a fisheries management scientist who has studied the shark fin trade in Hong Kong and works with the United Nations' Food and Agriculture Organization. Like Shiffman, she's skeptical of the idea that the U.S. needs to get out of the trade altogether.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would rather focus on the point of the kill, which is on the water, determining what the fishermen do with the sharks that are caught on their fishing lines, and making sure that the number of sharks that are killed every year in fisheries is at a sustainable level,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She works with tuna fisheries to gather better data on how many sharks are caught, which species are most at risk, and how to manage populations through measures like catch limits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think at some point we're going to need to draw a line in the sand and say, 'You can't catch any more sharks than this, because we don't believe the populations can keep pace with that,' \" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The shark fin trade is being pressured worldwide, even in China and Hong Kong, a global hub for the trade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many companies have banned shark fin in their cargo, including shipping giants \u003ca href=\"https://www.wwf.org.hk/en/?15560/Press-release-Sixteen-Top-Global-Shipping-Companies-Have-Committed-to-Stop-Carrying-Shark-Fin-WWF-Hong-Kong-applauds-shipping-companies-effort-to-establish-and-implement--no-shark-fin-carriage-policies\">Maersk\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.scmp.com/news/hong-kong/health-environment/article/1913815/shark-fin-imports-dealt-another-blow-shipping\">OOCL\u003c/a>, Hong Kong's \u003ca href=\"http://www.scmp.com/news/hong-kong/health-environment/article/1979329/hong-kong-airlines-cathay-pacific-and-dragonair\">flagship airlines\u003c/a> Cathay Pacific and Dragonair, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.scmp.com/news/hong-kong/economy/article/2089229/chinas-biggest-airline-bans-shark-fin-cargo\">China's biggest airline\u003c/a>, China Southern.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ernest Kao, an environmental reporter in Hong Kong, says these multinational companies are responding to pressure from conservation groups like WildAID and the World Wildlife Fund.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He adds that even the Hong Kong government \u003ca href=\"http://www.news.gov.hk/en/categories/environment/html/2013/09/20130913_181957.shtml\">stopped serving shark fin\u003c/a> at official events, partly citing conservation concerns. After the Chinese Communist Party \u003ca href=\"http://www.china.org.cn/china/2013-12/09/content_30837502.htm\">banned shark fin at official dinners in 2013\u003c/a> to fight \"extravagance,\" the trade \u003ca href=\"http://www.scmp.com/news/hong-kong/article/1469412/hong-kong-shark-fin-imports-fall-35pc\">dropped significantly\u003c/a> the following year, though Kao says that drop has mostly leveled off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says traders he has spoken to are not pleased, but know there's not much they can do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Many of these traders actually are feeling the hit,\" Kao says. \"They are expecting demand for shark fin to go down in the long run, so many of them are actually switching to more trade in other seafood or dried marine products.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But regardless of a ban, Hammerschlag says that \u003ca href=\"http://www.rsmas.miami.edu/news-events/press-releases/2016/study-finds-shark-fins-meat-contain-high-levels-of-neurotoxins-linked-to-al\">eating shark fins or shark meat is a health risk\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One thing that I think potentially people should be aware of when it comes to shark fin ... is that they do have toxins in them,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sharks are toward the top of the food web, so they have higher levels of mercury and other toxins that have been linked to degenerative diseases such as Alzheimer's and dementia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Congress is once again considering a federal ban on shark fins, used in soup. But scientists are divided about whether a ban is the best way to protect the creatures, which are imperiled worldwide.",
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"description": "Congress is once again considering a federal ban on shark fins, used in soup. But scientists are divided about whether a ban is the best way to protect the creatures, which are imperiled worldwide.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>At many Chinese restaurants in the United States, there's a special dish called shark fin soup. It's expensive — a delicacy and status symbol in Chinese culture that's served during banquets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The soup is a hotly debated item in both the scientific and political communities, and it's illegal in 12 states, including Hawaii, Illinois and Texas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Congress is once again considering a federal ban on the shark fin trade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two bipartisan bills, \u003ca href=\"https://www.congress.gov/bill/115th-congress/house-bill/1456\">one in the House\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.congress.gov/bill/115th-congress/senate-bill/793\">one in the Senate\u003c/a>, would make it illegal to possess, buy, sell or transport shark fins in the United States. \u003ca href=\"https://www.congress.gov/bill/114th-congress/house-bill/5584/text\">House\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.congress.gov/bill/114th-congress/senate-bill/3095/all-actions?overview=closed%23tabs\">Senate\u003c/a> politicians introduced similar bills last year, but they didn't make it out of committee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new Senate bill \u003ca href=\"https://www.congress.gov/bill/115th-congress/senate-bill/793/text\">asserts that\u003c/a> many shark populations are in peril worldwide, and that some fishermen harvest shark fins by finning, a \"cruel practice in which the fins of a shark are cut off\" on a ship at sea, and the rest of the animal is \"then thrown back into the water to drown, starve or die a slow death.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0308597X13000055?via%253Dihub\">2013 study\u003c/a> in the journal \u003cem>Marine Policy\u003c/em> estimates that between 63 and 273 million sharks are killed each year, including those killed for their fins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But not all scientists agree that banning shark fins would be the way to protect sharks. Last month, two marine biologists wrote in\u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0308597X17304384?via%253Dihub\"> \u003c/a>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0308597X17304384?via%253Dihub\">Marine Policy\u003c/a>\u003c/em> that a ban would not prevent sharks from being killed worldwide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>David Shiffman, a marine biologist who co-wrote the article, studies sharks at Simon Fraser University in British Columbia, Canada. He says that shark fisheries in the U.S. harvest sharks sustainably, shark finning has \u003ca href=\"https://www.congress.gov/bill/106th-congress/house-bill/5461\">already been banned\u003c/a>, and if the U.S. just withdraws from the shark trade altogether, it'll be harder to encourage other countries to follow the U.S. lead in adopting the same kinds of policies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a lot easier to say, 'You should do it this way, see we're doing it and it works,' than it is to say, 'You should do it this way, pay no attention to the fact that we're not involved anymore,' \" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scientist Neil Hammerschlag of the University of Miami pushes back on that argument, explaining that the U.S. can only lead by example for countries that have the same resources that the U.S. does, including infrastructure to enforce fisheries management.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"But the same policies would not work in some of the big fishing countries which don't really have the capacity,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several conservation groups, including the nonprofit Oceana, \u003ca href=\"http://usa.oceana.org/sites/default/files/sharkfinbanrebuttal.pdf\">responded to Shiffman's article against the ban in \u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://usa.oceana.org/sites/default/files/sharkfinbanrebuttal.pdf\">Marine Policy\u003c/a>, saying that if the U.S. allows imports of shark fins from countries that don't have sustainable practices, like Myanmar and China, then it is \"complicit in the catch of at-risk species and condoning their lack of finning regulations.\" They say they support the bill because it aims to eliminate U.S. demand for shark fins altogether.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lora Snyder, an Oceana campaign director for responsible fishing and sharks, explains why she thinks the U.S. should just get out of the global fin trade altogether:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Demand for shark fins is one of the primary drivers of population declines of these species,\" she says, drawing a comparison between shark fins and the ivory trade. It is a global problem, she says, which \"needs a global solution.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Snyder points out that 150 scientists came out in support of the shark fin ban — in \u003ca href=\"http://usa.oceana.org/sites/default/files/usfintradeban_scientistletter_final.pdf\">an open letter of support\u003c/a>, they called shark conservation \"one of the most pressing biodiversity issues today.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Science is saying sharks are in trouble,\" Snyder says. \"It's necessary to look at policy solutions that are rooted in science through multiple lenses.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shelley Clarke is a fisheries management scientist who has studied the shark fin trade in Hong Kong and works with the United Nations' Food and Agriculture Organization. Like Shiffman, she's skeptical of the idea that the U.S. needs to get out of the trade altogether.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would rather focus on the point of the kill, which is on the water, determining what the fishermen do with the sharks that are caught on their fishing lines, and making sure that the number of sharks that are killed every year in fisheries is at a sustainable level,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She works with tuna fisheries to gather better data on how many sharks are caught, which species are most at risk, and how to manage populations through measures like catch limits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think at some point we're going to need to draw a line in the sand and say, 'You can't catch any more sharks than this, because we don't believe the populations can keep pace with that,' \" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The shark fin trade is being pressured worldwide, even in China and Hong Kong, a global hub for the trade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many companies have banned shark fin in their cargo, including shipping giants \u003ca href=\"https://www.wwf.org.hk/en/?15560/Press-release-Sixteen-Top-Global-Shipping-Companies-Have-Committed-to-Stop-Carrying-Shark-Fin-WWF-Hong-Kong-applauds-shipping-companies-effort-to-establish-and-implement--no-shark-fin-carriage-policies\">Maersk\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.scmp.com/news/hong-kong/health-environment/article/1913815/shark-fin-imports-dealt-another-blow-shipping\">OOCL\u003c/a>, Hong Kong's \u003ca href=\"http://www.scmp.com/news/hong-kong/health-environment/article/1979329/hong-kong-airlines-cathay-pacific-and-dragonair\">flagship airlines\u003c/a> Cathay Pacific and Dragonair, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.scmp.com/news/hong-kong/economy/article/2089229/chinas-biggest-airline-bans-shark-fin-cargo\">China's biggest airline\u003c/a>, China Southern.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ernest Kao, an environmental reporter in Hong Kong, says these multinational companies are responding to pressure from conservation groups like WildAID and the World Wildlife Fund.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He adds that even the Hong Kong government \u003ca href=\"http://www.news.gov.hk/en/categories/environment/html/2013/09/20130913_181957.shtml\">stopped serving shark fin\u003c/a> at official events, partly citing conservation concerns. After the Chinese Communist Party \u003ca href=\"http://www.china.org.cn/china/2013-12/09/content_30837502.htm\">banned shark fin at official dinners in 2013\u003c/a> to fight \"extravagance,\" the trade \u003ca href=\"http://www.scmp.com/news/hong-kong/article/1469412/hong-kong-shark-fin-imports-fall-35pc\">dropped significantly\u003c/a> the following year, though Kao says that drop has mostly leveled off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says traders he has spoken to are not pleased, but know there's not much they can do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Many of these traders actually are feeling the hit,\" Kao says. \"They are expecting demand for shark fin to go down in the long run, so many of them are actually switching to more trade in other seafood or dried marine products.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But regardless of a ban, Hammerschlag says that \u003ca href=\"http://www.rsmas.miami.edu/news-events/press-releases/2016/study-finds-shark-fins-meat-contain-high-levels-of-neurotoxins-linked-to-al\">eating shark fins or shark meat is a health risk\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One thing that I think potentially people should be aware of when it comes to shark fin ... is that they do have toxins in them,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sharks are toward the top of the food web, so they have higher levels of mercury and other toxins that have been linked to degenerative diseases such as Alzheimer's and dementia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Master Chef George Chen Opens Eight Tables, China Live’s Crown Jewel",
"title": "Master Chef George Chen Opens Eight Tables, China Live’s Crown Jewel",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Eight Tables video by Vic Chin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>An elaborate 10-course tasting menu invites diners into the world of shi fan tsai, private chateau-style dining.\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinese cuisine is known for elaborate banquet spreads, and private dining is the elite flipside of the social hierarchy. Banquets tend to feature an array of different foods, often heavy, concluding with lots of rice, noodles and other starches in case you didn’t get your fill from proteins and other more expensive foods. \u003cem>Shi fan tsai\u003c/em>, on the other hand, is what you might be offered at the home of a wealthy family with a private chef: many small courses, plated individually, coursed out over a leisurely evening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120956\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120956\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new.jpg\" alt=\"Table setting at Eight Tables\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Table setting at Eight Tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The entrance to \u003ca href=\"http://chinalivesf.com/fine-dining-in-san-francisco/\">Eight Tables\u003c/a> is on Kenneth Rexroth Lane in San Francisco’s Chinatown, an alley in back of a wrought-iron gate. After fighting for parking, we were greeted at the gate by two young women in black dresses. I looked to my left, and the woman asked, “May I see your prescription?” I looked to my right, and the other woman said, “Are you here to visit Eight Tables?” Relief.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120938\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120938\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new.jpg\" alt=\"Entrance to Eight Tables\" width=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Entrance to Eight Tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>An elevator ride to the second floor delivers us to another world, one of timeless, restrained decadence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121024\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121024\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new.jpg\" alt=\"An elevator takes you upstairs to the dining area\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An elevator takes you upstairs to the dining area \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Executive Chef George Chen\u003c/strong> is well known for his legendary Betelnut restaurant in the Marina District, which closed in 2015 after a 20-year run, as well as the upscale Shanghai 1930 in the Financial District, which closed in 2010, and several other San Francisco and Shanghai restaurants. \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/03/18/china-lives-lunch-is-the-new-sf-power-lunch/\">China Live\u003c/a> is Chen’s 20,000-square-foot Chinese food emporium, along the lines of Eataly in New York (and now Chicago and Boston). Other players on this star-studded team include two Saison alums, \u003cstrong>Andrew Fuentes\u003c/strong> at the front of the house and mixologist \u003cstrong>Andrew Keels\u003c/strong> behind the bar. \u003cstrong>Tony Kim\u003c/strong>, most recently of the Redwood Room at The Clift Hotel, leads the wine program. \u003cstrong>Luis Villavelazquez\u003c/strong>, formerly of Absinthe, is the mastermind of the elaborate dessert creations to come.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120965\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120965\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef George Chen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1672\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-160x139.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-800x697.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-768x669.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-1020x888.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-1180x1028.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-960x836.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-240x209.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-375x327.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-520x453.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef George Chen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The luxurious Eight Tables space, on the second floor of China Live, all cream and golden in hue, was designed by \u003ca href=\"http://www.avroko.com/\">AvroKO\u003c/a>, which won a 2017 James Beard Award for \u003ca href=\"https://www.singlethreadfarms.com/\">Single Thread\u003c/a> in Healdsburg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the reception lounge, we were offered warm towels as we took off our coats. Behind us hung a large-format, crisply focused photo of Chen and his parents, the kind of photograph you might see in the private home of a family of means in China.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121097\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reception area with photo of George Chen and his parents.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121097\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reception area with photo of George Chen and his parents. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cul>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"120948,120949,120951,120952,120947,120954\"]\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>As we were escorted to our seats, we paused at the bar to ooh and aah at the mobile cart where Keels stands at the ready to dispense a cocktail. We had decided to do the wine pairings instead, designed by sommelier Kim to highlight the range of possibilities for pairing wine with classic Chinese flavors, a practice that isn’t terribly common.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120955\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120955\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cocktail utensils atop rabbit fur at the mobile bar.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cocktail utensils atop rabbit fur at the mobile bar. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One stunning detail is the textured walls. Chef Chen explains that the process involved using antique fabric from Chinese wedding dresses, pressed into wet plaster, and allowed to partially dry—enough to leave the pattern behind, while not tearing the material.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120962\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120962\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new.jpg\" alt=\"Textured walls were made using fabric from antique Chinese wedding dresses.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Textured walls were made using fabric from antique Chinese wedding dresses. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are eight tables in the graciously appointed room, a number considered to be the luckiest in Chinese culture. Servers in fawn-colored suits appear and disappear in choreographed, ballet-like motion throughout the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121021\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121021\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new.jpg\" alt=\"One of the eight tables\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the eight tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120990\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120990\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new.jpg\" alt=\"Courses are presented in a choreographed manner. Mixologist Andrew Keels (L) and general manager Andrew Fuentes (R) participated in serving the meal.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Courses are presented in a choreographed manner. Mixologist Andrew Keels (L) and general manager Andrew Fuentes (R) participated in serving the meal. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chen’s cooking, further developed and executed by \u003cstrong>Chef de Cuisine Robin Lin\u003c/strong>, translates this luxury to gathering at table for a lyrical and carefully crafted meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Jiu gong ge\u003c/em>, or nine essential flavors, is the name of the first course, and from a sensory perspective, it’s a microcosm of the other nine courses to follow, as it represents the full spectrum of possible flavors: sweet, salty, sour, bitter, numbing, spicy, nutty, sharp, and smoky. Each elegant bite is plated on dishes made for just the occasion and arranged in a complex numerology that forms a \u003cem>lo shu\u003c/em> grid, which adds up to 15 vertically, horizontally and diagonally, considered very lucky, even magical.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120935\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120935\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new.jpg\" alt=\"Jiu Gong Ge - Nine Essential Flavors\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jiu Gong Ge - Nine Essential Flavors \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You will have your favorite of the bites, as well as a logic for proceeding through them. The four people at our table all chose different paths through the maze. One preferred to save the sweet jujube stuffed with glutinous rice and chickpea hearts for the last bite, while another preferred to end with a local anchovy wok-smoked with black sugar and tea. We all placed the \u003cem>ma\u003c/em> (numbing) and \u003cem>la\u003c/em> (spicy), often combined, but distinct dishes here, in the middle of the experience. Each dish represented its category precisely and creatively. My own favorites were the “sharp” clam marinated in soy sauce with ginger and scallions and the gelatin of pork shank with (sour) vinegar and thin slices of ginger. The strangest and most interesting was a little (nutty) roulade of nori and yuba (tofu noodles). A tiny stack of bitter melon slices was bracing, as intended.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"120971,120972,120973,120974,120975,120976,120979,120978,120977\"]\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>The wine selected for pairing with this course was the sparkling \u003ca href=\"https://www.kermitlynch.com/our-wines/champagne-j-lassalle/\">Cuvée Angeline Brut Champagne\u003c/a> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.champagne-jlassalle.com/en/\">J. Lassalle\u003c/a>, whose crisp brightness stands up to the intense flavors and whose sweetness gives ballast to the spicier end of things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120961\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120961\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sommelier Tony Kim pours Cuvée Angeline Brut Champagne from J. Lassalle\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sommelier Tony Kim pours Cuvée Angeline Brut Champagne from J. Lassalle \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the unanimous favorite dish of the night, course number two was a four-pronged shrimp dumpling topped with Osetra caviar, trout roe, sour cream topped with finger lime, and scallions, all in their respective quadrants and surrounded by micro-greens and Santa Barbara sea urchin on the plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120983\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120983\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Four Seas Dumpling - Russian Golden Osetra, Sea Urchin, Heirloom Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Four Seas Dumpling - Russian Golden Osetra, Sea Urchin, Heirloom Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A brilliant wine pairing was the unusual \u003ca href=\"https://www.winex.com/product/33091/Valdespino_Palomino_Fino_Ojo_de_Gallo_2016.html\">Palomino Fino from Valdespino\u003c/a>, essentially unfortified sherry. It’s dry, but with a glimmer of sherry-toned fruit sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barbecue “Shao Kao” features Kaluga caviar farmed in China! Though most diners might not have heard of it, this sturgeon caviar is being served by Lufthansa in its first-class cabins and has been vetted for sustainability and cleanliness (as China isn’t always known for environmental practices). Iberico pork (rather than the ham most of us are familiar with) is served chashu style alongside crispy duck skin and amazing little pearls of apple caviar made by Chen’s wife, Cindy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120942\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120942\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new.jpg\" alt=\"Barbecue “Shao Kao” - Kaluga on Peking Duck Skin, Iberico Char Siu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Barbecue “Shao Kao” - Kaluga on Peking Duck Skin, Iberico Char Siu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120988\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120988\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new.jpg\" alt=\"Mini pork sandwich\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mini pork sandwich \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The wine course here was a dry \u003ca href=\"http://www.cavicchioli.it/ing/vini.php?mcat=53&cat=63&id=279\">Lambrusco\u003c/a>, the sparkling Italian red wine that has reclaimed its rightful place at the table over the last decade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After much intensity on the palate, a gentler course comes next: gulf prawn consommé with glass noodles, a prawn ball and single peppery nasturtium leaf, paired with a Chardonnay from Santa Maria Valley (\u003ca href=\"http://www.nielsonwines.com/buy.asp\">Nielson by Byron\u003c/a>), buttery to the consommé’s salty sweetness. A whole fried shrimp wrapped in sea grass comes on the side; I could’ve eaten a bowl of just these.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120991\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120991\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new.jpg\" alt=\"Gulf Prawn Consommé - Glass Noodles, Prawn Ball, Nasturtium\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gulf Prawn Consommé - Glass Noodles, Prawn Ball, Nasturtium \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120992\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120992\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fried shrimp wrapped in sea grass.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fried shrimp wrapped in sea grass. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The other contender for my personal favorite dish was a Norwegian cod steamed in banana leaf with pickled white melon and bamboo “cannelloni” tucked inside, a slice of earthy-crisp lotus root on the bottom. The Champagne comes back out for this course—something I adore about this restaurant, sommelier Kim’s willingness to move in non-linear ways throughout the pairings—\u003ca href=\"http://www.champagne-gosset.com/eng\">a Gosset Brut\u003c/a>, classic non-vintage bubbly with notes of Fall fruits and tropical florals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120995\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120995\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new.jpg\" alt=\"Black Cod Wrapped in Banana Leaf - Picked White Melon, Bamboo 'Cannelloni'\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Black Cod Wrapped in Banana Leaf - Picked White Melon, Bamboo 'Cannelloni' \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Velvet chicken, the next course, is surely unlike any version you’ve ever tried, made here with early-season truffles from Burgundy and matsutake mushrooms with veal \u003cem>jus\u003c/em>. We dip into red wine with a \u003ca href=\"http://m.henryfessy.com/en/wine/fleurie-2010.php\">Fleurie Crus Beaujolais by Henry Fessy\u003c/a>, fruit-forward and high-toned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It comes with a handmade savory dumpling, much like a dinner roll in a Western restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120999\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120999\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new.jpg\" alt=\"Velvet Chicken - Burgundy Truffles, Trumpet Mushrooms, Veal Jus\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Velvet Chicken - Burgundy Truffles, Trumpet Mushrooms, Veal Jus \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120997\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120997\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new.jpg\" alt=\"Handmade savory dumpling\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Handmade savory dumpling \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was, at this point, quite honestly full, but I persisted on to the red braised pork, a rectangle of long-cooked meat with crispy skin served with a tea egg, fava beans and little strands of yuba noodles tied up into knots. A bowl of fried rice with tiny pieces of egg and a crisped-rice garnish is served alongside. The sweetness of this dish requires a bigger red wine, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.petermichaelwinery.com/Wines/Les-Pavots/\">Peter Michael Les Pavots Bordeaux Blend\u003c/a> did the job, refusing to be overwhelmed by the sweetness, but also not obscuring it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121002\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121002\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new.jpg\" alt=\"Red Braised Pork - Tea Egg, Fava Beans, Tofu Knots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Red Braised Pork - Tea Egg, Fava Beans, Tofu Knots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121004\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121004\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of fried rice with tiny pieces of egg and a crisped-rice garnish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A bowl of fried rice with tiny pieces of egg and a crisped-rice garnish. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the most clever and successful pairing of all was the Hudson Valley foie gras potsticker in beef noodle soup alongside a quite surprising wine choice: a pétillant naturel Chenin Blanc made in the little-known AVA of Clarksburg in, of all places, the Sacramento Valley (\u003ca href=\"https://haarmeyerwinecellars.com/\">Haarmeyer Wine Cellars, St. Rey\u003c/a>). But work it did, the rather funky, sweet-toned but crisp, lightly bubbly wine in harmony with the equally funky but directionally opposite duck liver.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121006\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121006\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new.jpg\" alt=\"Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker - Beef Noodle Soup\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker - Beef Noodle Soup \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121047\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121047\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new.jpg\" alt=\"Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker\" width=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two dessert courses by Villavelaquez wrap up the meal, the first a palate cleanser of chrysanthemum granita with yogurt and preserved plum, and the latter a strange \u003cem>tour-de-force\u003c/em> of mesquite bubbles with fried seaweed and passion fruit cream. The seaweed and passion fruit made a beautiful marriage, while the mesquite foam went a long way on aroma alone. Its taste was perhaps more overwhelming than intended, but it worked as an aromatic accompaniment. The last glass of the night was a discrete counterpoint among the sweet-savory-smoky elements: a \u003ca href=\"https://www.rarewineco.com/rare-wine-co-historic-series-madeira\">Madeira from The Rare Wine Co., a Charleston Sercial\u003c/a> named for the Southern U.S. city where the dry style of Madeira caught on in the early 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121011\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121011\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chrysanthemum Granita - Yogurt, Preserved Plum\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chrysanthemum Granita - Yogurt, Preserved Plum \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121013\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121013\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese Sea Grass - Passion Fruit, Mesquite Bubbles\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chinese Sea Grass - Passion Fruit, Mesquite Bubbles \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The check comes stashed in the pages of a book by the aforementioned \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kenneth_Rexroth\">Kenneth Rexroth\u003c/a>, an eminent translator of Chinese poetry, coming back around full-circle to the alley entrance that bears his name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121017\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121017\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new.jpg\" alt=\"The check is delivered in a Kenneth Rexroth book.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The check is delivered in a Kenneth Rexroth book. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We were sent home with beautiful boxes of microbatch bonbons by Oakland chocolatier \u003ca href=\"http://www.flyingnoir.net/\">Karen Urbanek\u003c/a>, stamped with symbols representing the four winds, and chopsticks with our names stamped into the enamel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121015\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121015\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new.jpg\" alt=\"Microbatch bonbons by Oakland chocolatier Karen Urbanek\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Microbatch bonbons by Oakland chocolatier Karen Urbanek \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121026\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121026\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolates stamped with symbols representing the four winds.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolates stamped with symbols representing the four winds. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And so we were carried out that evening and swept back in to the bustling streets of the city and our busy lives, taking with us the memory of culinary completeness—and full for days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121063\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new.jpg\" alt=\"Eight Tables\" width=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121063\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-160x182.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-800x908.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-768x871.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-1020x1157.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-1180x1339.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-960x1089.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-240x272.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-375x425.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-520x590.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eight Tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://chinalivesf.com/fine-dining-in-san-francisco/\">\u003cstrong>Eight Tables\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n8 Kenneth Rexroth Place\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94133 [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/SBLpKz\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 788-8788\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner, Tue-Sat, 5:30pm-9:30pm\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$ (tasting menu $225; wine pairings $125)\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ChinaLiveSF/\">China Live\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ChinaLiveSF\">@ChinaLiveSF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chinalivesf/\">@chinalivesf\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "Master Chef George Chen Opens Eight Tables, China Live’s Crown Jewel | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Eight Tables video by Vic Chin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>An elaborate 10-course tasting menu invites diners into the world of shi fan tsai, private chateau-style dining.\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinese cuisine is known for elaborate banquet spreads, and private dining is the elite flipside of the social hierarchy. Banquets tend to feature an array of different foods, often heavy, concluding with lots of rice, noodles and other starches in case you didn’t get your fill from proteins and other more expensive foods. \u003cem>Shi fan tsai\u003c/em>, on the other hand, is what you might be offered at the home of a wealthy family with a private chef: many small courses, plated individually, coursed out over a leisurely evening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120956\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120956\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new.jpg\" alt=\"Table setting at Eight Tables\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6724-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Table setting at Eight Tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The entrance to \u003ca href=\"http://chinalivesf.com/fine-dining-in-san-francisco/\">Eight Tables\u003c/a> is on Kenneth Rexroth Lane in San Francisco’s Chinatown, an alley in back of a wrought-iron gate. After fighting for parking, we were greeted at the gate by two young women in black dresses. I looked to my left, and the woman asked, “May I see your prescription?” I looked to my right, and the other woman said, “Are you here to visit Eight Tables?” Relief.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120938\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120938\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new.jpg\" alt=\"Entrance to Eight Tables\" width=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1447-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Entrance to Eight Tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>An elevator ride to the second floor delivers us to another world, one of timeless, restrained decadence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121024\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121024\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new.jpg\" alt=\"An elevator takes you upstairs to the dining area\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7384-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An elevator takes you upstairs to the dining area \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Executive Chef George Chen\u003c/strong> is well known for his legendary Betelnut restaurant in the Marina District, which closed in 2015 after a 20-year run, as well as the upscale Shanghai 1930 in the Financial District, which closed in 2010, and several other San Francisco and Shanghai restaurants. \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/03/18/china-lives-lunch-is-the-new-sf-power-lunch/\">China Live\u003c/a> is Chen’s 20,000-square-foot Chinese food emporium, along the lines of Eataly in New York (and now Chicago and Boston). Other players on this star-studded team include two Saison alums, \u003cstrong>Andrew Fuentes\u003c/strong> at the front of the house and mixologist \u003cstrong>Andrew Keels\u003c/strong> behind the bar. \u003cstrong>Tony Kim\u003c/strong>, most recently of the Redwood Room at The Clift Hotel, leads the wine program. \u003cstrong>Luis Villavelazquez\u003c/strong>, formerly of Absinthe, is the mastermind of the elaborate dessert creations to come.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120965\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120965\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef George Chen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1672\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-160x139.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-800x697.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-768x669.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-1020x888.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-1180x1028.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-960x836.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-240x209.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-375x327.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6753-new-520x453.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef George Chen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The luxurious Eight Tables space, on the second floor of China Live, all cream and golden in hue, was designed by \u003ca href=\"http://www.avroko.com/\">AvroKO\u003c/a>, which won a 2017 James Beard Award for \u003ca href=\"https://www.singlethreadfarms.com/\">Single Thread\u003c/a> in Healdsburg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the reception lounge, we were offered warm towels as we took off our coats. Behind us hung a large-format, crisply focused photo of Chen and his parents, the kind of photograph you might see in the private home of a family of means in China.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121097\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reception area with photo of George Chen and his parents.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121097\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7378-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reception area with photo of George Chen and his parents. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cul>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>As we were escorted to our seats, we paused at the bar to ooh and aah at the mobile cart where Keels stands at the ready to dispense a cocktail. We had decided to do the wine pairings instead, designed by sommelier Kim to highlight the range of possibilities for pairing wine with classic Chinese flavors, a practice that isn’t terribly common.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120955\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120955\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cocktail utensils atop rabbit fur at the mobile bar.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6722-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cocktail utensils atop rabbit fur at the mobile bar. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One stunning detail is the textured walls. Chef Chen explains that the process involved using antique fabric from Chinese wedding dresses, pressed into wet plaster, and allowed to partially dry—enough to leave the pattern behind, while not tearing the material.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120962\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120962\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new.jpg\" alt=\"Textured walls were made using fabric from antique Chinese wedding dresses.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6744-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Textured walls were made using fabric from antique Chinese wedding dresses. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are eight tables in the graciously appointed room, a number considered to be the luckiest in Chinese culture. Servers in fawn-colored suits appear and disappear in choreographed, ballet-like motion throughout the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121021\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121021\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new.jpg\" alt=\"One of the eight tables\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7372-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the eight tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120990\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120990\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new.jpg\" alt=\"Courses are presented in a choreographed manner. Mixologist Andrew Keels (L) and general manager Andrew Fuentes (R) participated in serving the meal.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6942-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Courses are presented in a choreographed manner. Mixologist Andrew Keels (L) and general manager Andrew Fuentes (R) participated in serving the meal. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chen’s cooking, further developed and executed by \u003cstrong>Chef de Cuisine Robin Lin\u003c/strong>, translates this luxury to gathering at table for a lyrical and carefully crafted meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Jiu gong ge\u003c/em>, or nine essential flavors, is the name of the first course, and from a sensory perspective, it’s a microcosm of the other nine courses to follow, as it represents the full spectrum of possible flavors: sweet, salty, sour, bitter, numbing, spicy, nutty, sharp, and smoky. Each elegant bite is plated on dishes made for just the occasion and arranged in a complex numerology that forms a \u003cem>lo shu\u003c/em> grid, which adds up to 15 vertically, horizontally and diagonally, considered very lucky, even magical.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120935\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120935\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new.jpg\" alt=\"Jiu Gong Ge - Nine Essential Flavors\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6824-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jiu Gong Ge - Nine Essential Flavors \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You will have your favorite of the bites, as well as a logic for proceeding through them. The four people at our table all chose different paths through the maze. One preferred to save the sweet jujube stuffed with glutinous rice and chickpea hearts for the last bite, while another preferred to end with a local anchovy wok-smoked with black sugar and tea. We all placed the \u003cem>ma\u003c/em> (numbing) and \u003cem>la\u003c/em> (spicy), often combined, but distinct dishes here, in the middle of the experience. Each dish represented its category precisely and creatively. My own favorites were the “sharp” clam marinated in soy sauce with ginger and scallions and the gelatin of pork shank with (sour) vinegar and thin slices of ginger. The strangest and most interesting was a little (nutty) roulade of nori and yuba (tofu noodles). A tiny stack of bitter melon slices was bracing, as intended.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>The wine selected for pairing with this course was the sparkling \u003ca href=\"https://www.kermitlynch.com/our-wines/champagne-j-lassalle/\">Cuvée Angeline Brut Champagne\u003c/a> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.champagne-jlassalle.com/en/\">J. Lassalle\u003c/a>, whose crisp brightness stands up to the intense flavors and whose sweetness gives ballast to the spicier end of things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120961\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120961\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sommelier Tony Kim pours Cuvée Angeline Brut Champagne from J. Lassalle\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6739-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sommelier Tony Kim pours Cuvée Angeline Brut Champagne from J. Lassalle \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the unanimous favorite dish of the night, course number two was a four-pronged shrimp dumpling topped with Osetra caviar, trout roe, sour cream topped with finger lime, and scallions, all in their respective quadrants and surrounded by micro-greens and Santa Barbara sea urchin on the plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120983\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120983\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Four Seas Dumpling - Russian Golden Osetra, Sea Urchin, Heirloom Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6876-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Four Seas Dumpling - Russian Golden Osetra, Sea Urchin, Heirloom Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A brilliant wine pairing was the unusual \u003ca href=\"https://www.winex.com/product/33091/Valdespino_Palomino_Fino_Ojo_de_Gallo_2016.html\">Palomino Fino from Valdespino\u003c/a>, essentially unfortified sherry. It’s dry, but with a glimmer of sherry-toned fruit sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barbecue “Shao Kao” features Kaluga caviar farmed in China! Though most diners might not have heard of it, this sturgeon caviar is being served by Lufthansa in its first-class cabins and has been vetted for sustainability and cleanliness (as China isn’t always known for environmental practices). Iberico pork (rather than the ham most of us are familiar with) is served chashu style alongside crispy duck skin and amazing little pearls of apple caviar made by Chen’s wife, Cindy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120942\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120942\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new.jpg\" alt=\"Barbecue “Shao Kao” - Kaluga on Peking Duck Skin, Iberico Char Siu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1475-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Barbecue “Shao Kao” - Kaluga on Peking Duck Skin, Iberico Char Siu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120988\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120988\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new.jpg\" alt=\"Mini pork sandwich\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6913-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mini pork sandwich \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The wine course here was a dry \u003ca href=\"http://www.cavicchioli.it/ing/vini.php?mcat=53&cat=63&id=279\">Lambrusco\u003c/a>, the sparkling Italian red wine that has reclaimed its rightful place at the table over the last decade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After much intensity on the palate, a gentler course comes next: gulf prawn consommé with glass noodles, a prawn ball and single peppery nasturtium leaf, paired with a Chardonnay from Santa Maria Valley (\u003ca href=\"http://www.nielsonwines.com/buy.asp\">Nielson by Byron\u003c/a>), buttery to the consommé’s salty sweetness. A whole fried shrimp wrapped in sea grass comes on the side; I could’ve eaten a bowl of just these.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120991\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120991\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new.jpg\" alt=\"Gulf Prawn Consommé - Glass Noodles, Prawn Ball, Nasturtium\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6951-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gulf Prawn Consommé - Glass Noodles, Prawn Ball, Nasturtium \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120992\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120992\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fried shrimp wrapped in sea grass.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6957-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fried shrimp wrapped in sea grass. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The other contender for my personal favorite dish was a Norwegian cod steamed in banana leaf with pickled white melon and bamboo “cannelloni” tucked inside, a slice of earthy-crisp lotus root on the bottom. The Champagne comes back out for this course—something I adore about this restaurant, sommelier Kim’s willingness to move in non-linear ways throughout the pairings—\u003ca href=\"http://www.champagne-gosset.com/eng\">a Gosset Brut\u003c/a>, classic non-vintage bubbly with notes of Fall fruits and tropical florals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120995\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120995\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new.jpg\" alt=\"Black Cod Wrapped in Banana Leaf - Picked White Melon, Bamboo 'Cannelloni'\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7046-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Black Cod Wrapped in Banana Leaf - Picked White Melon, Bamboo 'Cannelloni' \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Velvet chicken, the next course, is surely unlike any version you’ve ever tried, made here with early-season truffles from Burgundy and matsutake mushrooms with veal \u003cem>jus\u003c/em>. We dip into red wine with a \u003ca href=\"http://m.henryfessy.com/en/wine/fleurie-2010.php\">Fleurie Crus Beaujolais by Henry Fessy\u003c/a>, fruit-forward and high-toned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It comes with a handmade savory dumpling, much like a dinner roll in a Western restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120999\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120999\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new.jpg\" alt=\"Velvet Chicken - Burgundy Truffles, Trumpet Mushrooms, Veal Jus\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7097-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Velvet Chicken - Burgundy Truffles, Trumpet Mushrooms, Veal Jus \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120997\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120997\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new.jpg\" alt=\"Handmade savory dumpling\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7083-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Handmade savory dumpling \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was, at this point, quite honestly full, but I persisted on to the red braised pork, a rectangle of long-cooked meat with crispy skin served with a tea egg, fava beans and little strands of yuba noodles tied up into knots. A bowl of fried rice with tiny pieces of egg and a crisped-rice garnish is served alongside. The sweetness of this dish requires a bigger red wine, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.petermichaelwinery.com/Wines/Les-Pavots/\">Peter Michael Les Pavots Bordeaux Blend\u003c/a> did the job, refusing to be overwhelmed by the sweetness, but also not obscuring it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121002\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121002\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new.jpg\" alt=\"Red Braised Pork - Tea Egg, Fava Beans, Tofu Knots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7137-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Red Braised Pork - Tea Egg, Fava Beans, Tofu Knots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121004\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121004\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of fried rice with tiny pieces of egg and a crisped-rice garnish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7149-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A bowl of fried rice with tiny pieces of egg and a crisped-rice garnish. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the most clever and successful pairing of all was the Hudson Valley foie gras potsticker in beef noodle soup alongside a quite surprising wine choice: a pétillant naturel Chenin Blanc made in the little-known AVA of Clarksburg in, of all places, the Sacramento Valley (\u003ca href=\"https://haarmeyerwinecellars.com/\">Haarmeyer Wine Cellars, St. Rey\u003c/a>). But work it did, the rather funky, sweet-toned but crisp, lightly bubbly wine in harmony with the equally funky but directionally opposite duck liver.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121006\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121006\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new.jpg\" alt=\"Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker - Beef Noodle Soup\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7245-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker - Beef Noodle Soup \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121047\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121047\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new.jpg\" alt=\"Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker\" width=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7233-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hudson Valley Foie Gras Potsticker\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two dessert courses by Villavelaquez wrap up the meal, the first a palate cleanser of chrysanthemum granita with yogurt and preserved plum, and the latter a strange \u003cem>tour-de-force\u003c/em> of mesquite bubbles with fried seaweed and passion fruit cream. The seaweed and passion fruit made a beautiful marriage, while the mesquite foam went a long way on aroma alone. Its taste was perhaps more overwhelming than intended, but it worked as an aromatic accompaniment. The last glass of the night was a discrete counterpoint among the sweet-savory-smoky elements: a \u003ca href=\"https://www.rarewineco.com/rare-wine-co-historic-series-madeira\">Madeira from The Rare Wine Co., a Charleston Sercial\u003c/a> named for the Southern U.S. city where the dry style of Madeira caught on in the early 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121011\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121011\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chrysanthemum Granita - Yogurt, Preserved Plum\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7267-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chrysanthemum Granita - Yogurt, Preserved Plum \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121013\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121013\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese Sea Grass - Passion Fruit, Mesquite Bubbles\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7302-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chinese Sea Grass - Passion Fruit, Mesquite Bubbles \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The check comes stashed in the pages of a book by the aforementioned \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kenneth_Rexroth\">Kenneth Rexroth\u003c/a>, an eminent translator of Chinese poetry, coming back around full-circle to the alley entrance that bears his name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121017\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121017\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new.jpg\" alt=\"The check is delivered in a Kenneth Rexroth book.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7328-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The check is delivered in a Kenneth Rexroth book. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We were sent home with beautiful boxes of microbatch bonbons by Oakland chocolatier \u003ca href=\"http://www.flyingnoir.net/\">Karen Urbanek\u003c/a>, stamped with symbols representing the four winds, and chopsticks with our names stamped into the enamel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121015\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121015\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new.jpg\" alt=\"Microbatch bonbons by Oakland chocolatier Karen Urbanek\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7320-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Microbatch bonbons by Oakland chocolatier Karen Urbanek \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121026\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-121026\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolates stamped with symbols representing the four winds.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_7399-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolates stamped with symbols representing the four winds. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And so we were carried out that evening and swept back in to the bustling streets of the city and our busy lives, taking with us the memory of culinary completeness—and full for days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121063\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new.jpg\" alt=\"Eight Tables\" width=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121063\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-160x182.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-800x908.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-768x871.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-1020x1157.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-1180x1339.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-960x1089.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-240x272.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-375x425.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1454-new-520x590.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eight Tables \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://chinalivesf.com/fine-dining-in-san-francisco/\">\u003cstrong>Eight Tables\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n8 Kenneth Rexroth Place\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94133 [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/SBLpKz\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 788-8788\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner, Tue-Sat, 5:30pm-9:30pm\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$ (tasting menu $225; wine pairings $125)\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ChinaLiveSF/\">China Live\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ChinaLiveSF\">@ChinaLiveSF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chinalivesf/\">@chinalivesf\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Preview: Esan Classic brings lesser-known Thai flavors to the Tenderloin",
"title": "Preview: Esan Classic brings lesser-known Thai flavors to the Tenderloin",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>The first thing we were told when we entered Esan Classic, the new Thai restaurant on the edge of the Tenderloin for a recent media preview was “this is the most expensive Thai restaurant project in San Francisco; it was two and a half years in the making.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With an introduction like that, it’s hard not to have impossibly high expectations. Several courses in, one diner in our group declared that the Tom Yum Pla Kao, a hot and sour soup with black cod, was the best soup he had ever eaten in his life. Judging by that comment, our expectations were mostly met.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120674\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120674\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new.jpg\" alt=\"Hot & Sour Soup with Black Cod - Tom Yum Pla Kao\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hot & Sour Soup with Black Cod - Tom Yum Pla Kao \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Esan Classic is the fourth restaurant opened by owner Tom Silargorn, who owns the three popular \u003ca href=\"http://lersros.com/\">Lers Ros Thai\u003c/a> restaurants, with the original one being right across the street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120664\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120664\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entrance to Esan Classic\" width=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entrance to Esan Classic \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“The Esan province of Thailand has the most rare food, and there are not a lot of people doing it, and even when people are, the authenticity is not up to par” explained Rene Colorado, the restaurant group’s general manager. “You’ll taste certain flowers and herbs here that are very expensive to import, but they’re doing it to have the most authentic flavors.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Silargorn comes from the Esan province, (also spelled Isan or Isaan) which is in the northeast of Thailand. Given that it borders both Laos and Cambodia, there is significant overlap in both culture and food; for instance, while larb (a salad made from ground meat) is considered the national dish of Laos, it is also equally popular in Esan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120671\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120671\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ground Pork Salad - Larb Pork\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ground Pork Salad - Larb Pork \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While Esan is also known as the poorest region of Thailand, as it does not see the same amount of tourism as the south, that is not apparent at the restaurant, which has a sleek, sunken dining room, high ceilings, and oversized images of women reminiscent of eighties artist \u003ca href=\"http://www.patricknagel.com/\">Patrick Nagel\u003c/a> on the walls. It has bit of a nightclub feel (though with sports on two tvs in the bar) and intends to stay open until 2 am on weekends, though as of now, there is wine and beer, but no liquor license.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120659\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120659\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entrance to the kitchen at Esan Classic. Owner and chef Tom Silargorn is visible in the left window.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entrance to the kitchen at Esan Classic. Owner and chef Tom Silargorn is visible in the left window. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120657\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120657\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new.jpg\" alt=\"The bar at Esan currently serves wine and beer.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bar at Esan currently serves wine and beer. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This media dinner was the first this reporter had ever been to where a host introduced each course with a microphone from a stage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120649\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120649\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new.jpg\" alt=\"Goody Kay announces each course being served from a stage at Esan Classic's preview dinner.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Goody Kay announces each course being served from a stage at Esan Classic's preview dinner. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Although Goody Kay has lived here for years, he is somewhat of an influencer in Thailand, he told us privately, and was wearing sparkling silver shoes with spikes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120680\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120680\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new.jpg\" alt=\"Goody Kay (L) introduces chef Chanon Hutasingh (R) who is overseeing the kitchen at Esan Classic.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Goody Kay (L) introduces chef Chanon Hutasingh (R) who is overseeing the kitchen at Esan Classic. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Guests were treated to eleven courses, handpicked by Silargorn and Chef Chanon Hutasingh as their favorite dishes, and most representative of Esan cuisine. (Hutasingh is the chef that will oversee the kitchen at Esan Classic). It probably goes without saying that there was no pad thai or peanut sauce in sight. It must have been a difficult choice, given the menu is oversized and runs 11 pages long and has over 120 dishes on offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120662\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120662\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new.jpg\" alt=\"Esan Classic media preview menu.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Esan Classic media preview menu. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For the more adventurous eater, frogs legs and pork intestines and chicken hearts and gizzards are all on the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120651\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120651\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new.jpg\" alt=\"Serving soup tableside at Esan Classic. Lers Ros can be seen out the window across the street.\" width=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Serving soup tableside at Esan Classic. Lers Ros can be seen out the window across the street. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But we still experienced numerous flavors that were new to us; with the heat coming from both fresh and fried chilies, building up slowly throughout the meal. For instance, the above-mentioned tom yum soup had fresh chilies while the course that followed was a beef and chili powder soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/meNlzf1rQjM\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There were some misses. An appetizer of sun-dried calamari had guests wondering whether the squid – which looked almost like French fries – was best honored by this method. While it was certainly a new way to eat it, diners seemed more puzzled than wowed. A stewed beef plate made with tendon had a divine chili paste, but despite the long cooking time at very low heat, in some cases, there was much more fat than meat; large chunks were left on the plate. Despite Kay calling their larb “the best in the industry,” strings of fried pork fat were a bit too chewy to fully enjoy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120668\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120668\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sun-Dried Calamari - Pla Muk Haeng\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sun-Dried Calamari - Pla Muk Haeng \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120669\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120669\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new.jpg\" alt=\"Stewed Beef Plate - Nuer Peuay\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stewed Beef Plate - Nuer Peuay \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But other dishes were sublime. A dish called bitter melon salad, which had shrimp, scant pieces of bitter melon, and ground pork as the dominant ingredient (and also seemed rather larb-like) was a symphony of flavors, perfectly accentuated by chili and lime. “In Thailand, we believe that the more bitter something is, the better it is for you,” Kay instructed. It was that version of larb that we could have seen being called the best in the industry. The fish and beef soups were both so delicious and unusual, it was impossible to discern which we liked better. Mouth on fire, be damned, I kept going back for more. A sweet and spicy black bass came to the table fried into a shallow U, as if it were posing, head and tail perfectly aloft. A stir-fried green curry with beef was delicate and fragrant, a much more refined version than what we’re used to (which isn’t bad to begin with).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120673\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120673\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new.jpg\" alt=\"Bitter Melon Salad - Yum Ma-Ra Koong Sod\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bitter Melon Salad - Yum Ma-Ra Koong Sod \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120675\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120675\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sturgeon Stir-Fried with Black Pepper - Pla Prik Thai\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sturgeon Stir-Fried with Black Pepper - Pla Prik Thai \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120655\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120655\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new.jpg\" alt=\"Black Bass Sweet and Spicy - Pla Sam Ros\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Black Bass Sweet and Spicy - Pla Sam Ros \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120676\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120676\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new.jpg\" alt=\"Crispy Catfish with Chili Paste - Prik Khing Pla Dook Fu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crispy Catfish with Chili Paste - Prik Khing Pla Dook Fu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120677\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120677\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new.jpg\" alt=\"Stir-Fried Green Curry with Beef - Keawn Wan Pad Heang\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stir-Fried Green Curry with Beef - Keawn Wan Pad Heang \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We thought we’d leave most of the dessert untouched, a sweet black sticky rice with coconut milk and Longan, a cousin of the lychee, but that was not to happen; the unctuous rice with just the right amount of sweetness had us going back for more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120678\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120678\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new.jpg\" alt=\"Dessert: Thai-Esan Sweet Black Sticky Rice with Longan\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dessert: Thai-Esan Sweet Black Sticky Rice with Longan \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to the introduction Kay gave us, Silagorn could have retired back to Thailand after opening Lers Ros, but instead he opened two more. “His passion is cooking,” Kay told us. “All he wants to do is cook.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lucky San Francisco. With cooking like that, all we wanted to do was eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120665\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120665\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new.jpg\" alt=\"The view from outside looking into the Esan Classic main dining area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The view from outside looking into the Esan Classic main dining area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.esanclassic.com/\">\u003cstrong>Esan Classic\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (website not active yet)\u003cbr>\n739 Larkin St. [\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Esan+Classic/@37.7849199,-122.4201876,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580912e647a7b:0x55950d43d285b814!8m2!3d37.7849157!4d-122.4179989\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nHours: Open Sun-Thu, 11am-12am and Fri-Sat, 11am-2am.\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/esanclassicsf/\">esanclassicsf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/explore/locations/1513196112317547/esan-classic/\">@Esan-Classic\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$ entrees from $10.95 to $35.95 (with most averaging around $15 to $20)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120656\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120656\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new.jpg\" alt=\"The neon sign at night outside Esan Classic \" width=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The neon sign at night outside Esan Classic \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n",
"disqusIdentifier": "120543 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=120543",
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"excerpt": "Chefs Tom Silargorn and Chanon Hutasingh, of the popular Lers Ros restaurants, bring food from Silargorn's native Isan region of Thailand to the Tenderloin, in a sleek spot that's open late. ",
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"description": "Chefs Tom Silargorn and Chanon Hutasingh, of the popular Lers Ros restaurants, bring food from Silargorn's native Isan region of Thailand to the Tenderloin, in a sleek spot that's open late. ",
"title": "Preview: Esan Classic brings lesser-known Thai flavors to the Tenderloin | KQED",
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"headline": "Preview: Esan Classic brings lesser-known Thai flavors to the Tenderloin",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The first thing we were told when we entered Esan Classic, the new Thai restaurant on the edge of the Tenderloin for a recent media preview was “this is the most expensive Thai restaurant project in San Francisco; it was two and a half years in the making.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With an introduction like that, it’s hard not to have impossibly high expectations. Several courses in, one diner in our group declared that the Tom Yum Pla Kao, a hot and sour soup with black cod, was the best soup he had ever eaten in his life. Judging by that comment, our expectations were mostly met.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120674\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120674\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new.jpg\" alt=\"Hot & Sour Soup with Black Cod - Tom Yum Pla Kao\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hot & Sour Soup with Black Cod - Tom Yum Pla Kao \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Esan Classic is the fourth restaurant opened by owner Tom Silargorn, who owns the three popular \u003ca href=\"http://lersros.com/\">Lers Ros Thai\u003c/a> restaurants, with the original one being right across the street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120664\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120664\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entrance to Esan Classic\" width=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entrance to Esan Classic \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“The Esan province of Thailand has the most rare food, and there are not a lot of people doing it, and even when people are, the authenticity is not up to par” explained Rene Colorado, the restaurant group’s general manager. “You’ll taste certain flowers and herbs here that are very expensive to import, but they’re doing it to have the most authentic flavors.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Silargorn comes from the Esan province, (also spelled Isan or Isaan) which is in the northeast of Thailand. Given that it borders both Laos and Cambodia, there is significant overlap in both culture and food; for instance, while larb (a salad made from ground meat) is considered the national dish of Laos, it is also equally popular in Esan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120671\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120671\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ground Pork Salad - Larb Pork\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ground Pork Salad - Larb Pork \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While Esan is also known as the poorest region of Thailand, as it does not see the same amount of tourism as the south, that is not apparent at the restaurant, which has a sleek, sunken dining room, high ceilings, and oversized images of women reminiscent of eighties artist \u003ca href=\"http://www.patricknagel.com/\">Patrick Nagel\u003c/a> on the walls. It has bit of a nightclub feel (though with sports on two tvs in the bar) and intends to stay open until 2 am on weekends, though as of now, there is wine and beer, but no liquor license.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120659\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120659\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entrance to the kitchen at Esan Classic. Owner and chef Tom Silargorn is visible in the left window.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entrance to the kitchen at Esan Classic. Owner and chef Tom Silargorn is visible in the left window. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120657\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120657\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new.jpg\" alt=\"The bar at Esan currently serves wine and beer.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bar at Esan currently serves wine and beer. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This media dinner was the first this reporter had ever been to where a host introduced each course with a microphone from a stage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120649\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120649\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new.jpg\" alt=\"Goody Kay announces each course being served from a stage at Esan Classic's preview dinner.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Goody Kay announces each course being served from a stage at Esan Classic's preview dinner. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Although Goody Kay has lived here for years, he is somewhat of an influencer in Thailand, he told us privately, and was wearing sparkling silver shoes with spikes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120680\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120680\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new.jpg\" alt=\"Goody Kay (L) introduces chef Chanon Hutasingh (R) who is overseeing the kitchen at Esan Classic.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Goody Kay (L) introduces chef Chanon Hutasingh (R) who is overseeing the kitchen at Esan Classic. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Guests were treated to eleven courses, handpicked by Silargorn and Chef Chanon Hutasingh as their favorite dishes, and most representative of Esan cuisine. (Hutasingh is the chef that will oversee the kitchen at Esan Classic). It probably goes without saying that there was no pad thai or peanut sauce in sight. It must have been a difficult choice, given the menu is oversized and runs 11 pages long and has over 120 dishes on offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120662\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120662\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new.jpg\" alt=\"Esan Classic media preview menu.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Esan Classic media preview menu. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For the more adventurous eater, frogs legs and pork intestines and chicken hearts and gizzards are all on the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120651\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120651\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new.jpg\" alt=\"Serving soup tableside at Esan Classic. Lers Ros can be seen out the window across the street.\" width=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Serving soup tableside at Esan Classic. Lers Ros can be seen out the window across the street. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But we still experienced numerous flavors that were new to us; with the heat coming from both fresh and fried chilies, building up slowly throughout the meal. For instance, the above-mentioned tom yum soup had fresh chilies while the course that followed was a beef and chili powder soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/meNlzf1rQjM'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/meNlzf1rQjM'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>There were some misses. An appetizer of sun-dried calamari had guests wondering whether the squid – which looked almost like French fries – was best honored by this method. While it was certainly a new way to eat it, diners seemed more puzzled than wowed. A stewed beef plate made with tendon had a divine chili paste, but despite the long cooking time at very low heat, in some cases, there was much more fat than meat; large chunks were left on the plate. Despite Kay calling their larb “the best in the industry,” strings of fried pork fat were a bit too chewy to fully enjoy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120668\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120668\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sun-Dried Calamari - Pla Muk Haeng\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sun-Dried Calamari - Pla Muk Haeng \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120669\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120669\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new.jpg\" alt=\"Stewed Beef Plate - Nuer Peuay\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stewed Beef Plate - Nuer Peuay \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But other dishes were sublime. A dish called bitter melon salad, which had shrimp, scant pieces of bitter melon, and ground pork as the dominant ingredient (and also seemed rather larb-like) was a symphony of flavors, perfectly accentuated by chili and lime. “In Thailand, we believe that the more bitter something is, the better it is for you,” Kay instructed. It was that version of larb that we could have seen being called the best in the industry. The fish and beef soups were both so delicious and unusual, it was impossible to discern which we liked better. Mouth on fire, be damned, I kept going back for more. A sweet and spicy black bass came to the table fried into a shallow U, as if it were posing, head and tail perfectly aloft. A stir-fried green curry with beef was delicate and fragrant, a much more refined version than what we’re used to (which isn’t bad to begin with).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120673\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120673\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new.jpg\" alt=\"Bitter Melon Salad - Yum Ma-Ra Koong Sod\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bitter Melon Salad - Yum Ma-Ra Koong Sod \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120675\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120675\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sturgeon Stir-Fried with Black Pepper - Pla Prik Thai\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sturgeon Stir-Fried with Black Pepper - Pla Prik Thai \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120655\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120655\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new.jpg\" alt=\"Black Bass Sweet and Spicy - Pla Sam Ros\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Black Bass Sweet and Spicy - Pla Sam Ros \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120676\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120676\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new.jpg\" alt=\"Crispy Catfish with Chili Paste - Prik Khing Pla Dook Fu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crispy Catfish with Chili Paste - Prik Khing Pla Dook Fu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120677\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120677\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new.jpg\" alt=\"Stir-Fried Green Curry with Beef - Keawn Wan Pad Heang\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stir-Fried Green Curry with Beef - Keawn Wan Pad Heang \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We thought we’d leave most of the dessert untouched, a sweet black sticky rice with coconut milk and Longan, a cousin of the lychee, but that was not to happen; the unctuous rice with just the right amount of sweetness had us going back for more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120678\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120678\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new.jpg\" alt=\"Dessert: Thai-Esan Sweet Black Sticky Rice with Longan\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dessert: Thai-Esan Sweet Black Sticky Rice with Longan \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to the introduction Kay gave us, Silagorn could have retired back to Thailand after opening Lers Ros, but instead he opened two more. “His passion is cooking,” Kay told us. “All he wants to do is cook.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lucky San Francisco. With cooking like that, all we wanted to do was eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120665\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120665\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new.jpg\" alt=\"The view from outside looking into the Esan Classic main dining area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The view from outside looking into the Esan Classic main dining area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.esanclassic.com/\">\u003cstrong>Esan Classic\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (website not active yet)\u003cbr>\n739 Larkin St. [\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Esan+Classic/@37.7849199,-122.4201876,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580912e647a7b:0x55950d43d285b814!8m2!3d37.7849157!4d-122.4179989\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nHours: Open Sun-Thu, 11am-12am and Fri-Sat, 11am-2am.\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/esanclassicsf/\">esanclassicsf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/explore/locations/1513196112317547/esan-classic/\">@Esan-Classic\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$ entrees from $10.95 to $35.95 (with most averaging around $15 to $20)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120656\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120656\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new.jpg\" alt=\"The neon sign at night outside Esan Classic \" width=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The neon sign at night outside Esan Classic \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Preview: Chick’n Rice Khao Mun Gai in Berkeley Offers Tasty Thai-Style Street Food",
"title": "Preview: Chick’n Rice Khao Mun Gai in Berkeley Offers Tasty Thai-Style Street Food",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Perhaps it was only a matter of time before a restaurant came to fruition as a result of two obsessed diners following each other on Instagram. Well, of course that’s only part of the story, but it’s how Jason Wang connected with Chavayos (Bob) Rattakul, a Thai partner, to bring \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatchicknrice.com/\">Chick’n Rice\u003c/a> to downtown Berkeley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Opening tomorrow, the fast-casual concept is built around one particular dish, Khao Mun Gai, in which a piece of poached chicken is offered with rice cooked in chicken broth and other aromatics, with a punchy sauce of soy, garlic, ginger and chilies. The dish also comes with a bowl of chicken soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120453\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120453\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new.jpg\" alt=\"KMG - Khao Mun Gai\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">KMG - Khao Mun Gai \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120448\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120448\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new.jpg\" alt=\"Side of Chicken Broth Soup\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Side of Chicken Broth Soup \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A popular street food in Thailand, the dish has slowly been gaining popularity in the U.S., and thanks to the guys behind the Umai Hospitality Group, it will be introduced to many more people in the coming years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re planning a rapid expansion, maybe opening five more of these in the next three years,” John Keh told Bay Area Bites. “We’re already looking at a location in the South Bay.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120441\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120441\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new.jpg\" alt=\"John Keh at the media preview of Chick’n Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John Keh at the media preview of Chick’n Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Along with Wang, Keh is part of the Umai Hospitality Group; they along with two others, are all Cal graduates who founded and then sold the food delivery app \u003ca href=\"https://www.trycaviar.com/san-francisco\">Caviar\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We think this food is really accessible to the American palate as it’s interesting, different and healthy. And since the chicken is poached, it’s not too fatty,” said Keh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Berkeley location is on a restaurant row of sorts right near the Cal campus, at 2136 Center Street. Keh said the landlord was excited to get a Thai offering in the mix, since the street offers a wide range of international options already.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120450\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120450\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Berkeley location is on a restaurant row of sorts right near the Cal campus, at 2136 Center Street\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Berkeley location is on a restaurant row of sorts right near the Cal campus, at 2136 Center Street \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120446\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120446\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chick’n Rice interior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chick’n Rice interior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While one could think that it doesn’t take a lot to get such a simple dish right, she’d be wrong. Keh spent several months in Thailand with Rattakul, going from place to place, seeking out who did the most flavorful sauces; who made the most delicious rice. Rattakul then sought out their favorite recipes from these chefs, and in some cases, tasted their creations and guessed how to make them himself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And because they knew they couldn’t build an entire restaurant – small as it may be – on one dish alone, they came up with three others to round out the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120442\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120442\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chick’n Rice menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chick’n Rice menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In addition to the Khao Mun Gai (known as KMG on their menu) there is Fried KMG, Braised Pork, which comes with a soy-marinated egg and Asian greens, and Fried Tofu, which also comes with Asian greens. All dishes come with rice, (the two non-chicken dishes come with plain Jasmine rice rather than the chicken rice) and soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120520\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120520\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Fried KMG - Khao Mun Gai Tod - with Chicken Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fried KMG - Khao Mun Gai Tod - with Chicken Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120456\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120456\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new.jpg\" alt=\"Braised Pork - Khao Kha Moo - with Egg & Greens with Jasmine Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Braised Pork - Khao Kha Moo - with Egg & Greens with Jasmine Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120454\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120454\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tofu - Khao Mun Tao Hoo - Greens with Jasmine Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tofu - Khao Mun Tao Hoo - Greens with Jasmine Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All ingredients for the sauces are imported from Thailand, and all the meat comes from Marin Sun Farms. Vegetables are local as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120447\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120447\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sauces that accompany the dishes.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sauces that accompany the dishes. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A small portion of each dish is $8.99, a regular is $10.99, making this a great bargain, especially for high-quality meat (we found the small large enough to satisfy one person, and the servings of rice are perhaps even a bit over generous).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We found all the proteins with the exception of the poached chicken to be well-seasoned even without the sauces, but to not use the sauces would be a crime. The fried items were not the least bit greasy and the pork was especially flavorful even pre-sauced.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We couldn’t help but wonder though, how many people except for the die-hard health nuts would order the KMG given the more attractive options of fried chicken or pork. But fear not, healthy people. Just a drizzle of this brown sauce elevates it to such a degree, that one need not fear. The only thing we didn’t like post-sauce was the skin; Keh confirmed that in Asia they eat every part of the chicken, but after poaching, the skin becomes limp and rubbery, everything you do not want chicken skin to be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120449\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120449\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new.jpg\" alt=\"All menu items at Chick'n Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All menu items at Chick'n Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The fried chicken came with sweet chili sauce; the tofu nuggets came with a different kind of soy based-sauce and the pork had a green sauce that was spicy and acidic and fragrant in the best possible way; it looked like a tomatillo salsa but of course it wasn’t; while we were told it had Thai green chilies, cilantro and vinegar in it, we tried without avail to guess what gave it its funk. It wasn’t fish sauce, and while Keh told us in a moment of weakness, he asked us to keep it a secret (and I will say that this writer, who knows a thing or two about food, had never heard of it).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We found the soup less interesting, but it too could be easily doctored up with the addition of more ginger and chilies, which they have on hand. We added some of the poached chicken to the soup, and with a bit of additional ginger and chilies, it was transformed into something an Asian grandmother might make.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leaving Chick’n Rice without dessert would be a shame.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keh called their dessert options an accident, in that they knew they wanted to offer a dessert, but had no idea what to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery link=\"none\" size=\"medium\" ids=\"120459,120458,120457\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was hot out in Thailand, as it often is, and they wandered into a market to see what they could get that would be cool and refreshing. They found the traditional sticky rice and mango, but with a scoop of coconut ice cream. That same dessert is on offer, with a base of sticky rice cooked in coconut milk with a scoop of coconut, lychee or Thai iced tea ice cream on top. The ice cream comes from \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/polly-ann-ice-cream-san-francisco\">Polly Ann Ice Cream\u003c/a> in the Outer Sunset district of San Francisco, and next to that green sauce for the pork was our favorite dish of the night. One wouldn’t go wrong by ordering any of the three flavors, but we definitely preferred the coconut or Thai iced tea over the lychee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120462\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120462\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chick’n Rice is open daily until 10pm\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chick’n Rice is open daily 11am until 10pm \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eatchicknrice.com/\">\u003cstrong>Chick’n Rice\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2136 Center St., Berkeley [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/S2PfLs\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nHours: Open daily from 11am-10pm (Opens Friday 9/8/17)\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/eatchicknrice/\">Chick’n Rice\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eatchicknrice/\">@eatchicknrice\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $ ($8.99-$10.99 per entree)\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Khao Mun Gai, or poached chicken and rice, is a popular street food in Thailand. The guys who brought you the Caviar food delivery app now want to popularize the dish here, starting in Berkeley with Chick’n Rice, their new fast-casual spot.",
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"description": "Khao Mun Gai, or poached chicken and rice, is a popular street food in Thailand. The guys who brought you the Caviar food delivery app now want to popularize the dish here, starting in Berkeley with Chick’n Rice, their new fast-casual spot.",
"title": "Preview: Chick’n Rice Khao Mun Gai in Berkeley Offers Tasty Thai-Style Street Food | KQED",
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"headline": "Preview: Chick’n Rice Khao Mun Gai in Berkeley Offers Tasty Thai-Style Street Food",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Perhaps it was only a matter of time before a restaurant came to fruition as a result of two obsessed diners following each other on Instagram. Well, of course that’s only part of the story, but it’s how Jason Wang connected with Chavayos (Bob) Rattakul, a Thai partner, to bring \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatchicknrice.com/\">Chick’n Rice\u003c/a> to downtown Berkeley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Opening tomorrow, the fast-casual concept is built around one particular dish, Khao Mun Gai, in which a piece of poached chicken is offered with rice cooked in chicken broth and other aromatics, with a punchy sauce of soy, garlic, ginger and chilies. The dish also comes with a bowl of chicken soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120453\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120453\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new.jpg\" alt=\"KMG - Khao Mun Gai\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">KMG - Khao Mun Gai \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120448\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120448\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new.jpg\" alt=\"Side of Chicken Broth Soup\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Side of Chicken Broth Soup \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A popular street food in Thailand, the dish has slowly been gaining popularity in the U.S., and thanks to the guys behind the Umai Hospitality Group, it will be introduced to many more people in the coming years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re planning a rapid expansion, maybe opening five more of these in the next three years,” John Keh told Bay Area Bites. “We’re already looking at a location in the South Bay.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120441\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120441\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new.jpg\" alt=\"John Keh at the media preview of Chick’n Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John Keh at the media preview of Chick’n Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Along with Wang, Keh is part of the Umai Hospitality Group; they along with two others, are all Cal graduates who founded and then sold the food delivery app \u003ca href=\"https://www.trycaviar.com/san-francisco\">Caviar\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We think this food is really accessible to the American palate as it’s interesting, different and healthy. And since the chicken is poached, it’s not too fatty,” said Keh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Berkeley location is on a restaurant row of sorts right near the Cal campus, at 2136 Center Street. Keh said the landlord was excited to get a Thai offering in the mix, since the street offers a wide range of international options already.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120450\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120450\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Berkeley location is on a restaurant row of sorts right near the Cal campus, at 2136 Center Street\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Berkeley location is on a restaurant row of sorts right near the Cal campus, at 2136 Center Street \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120446\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120446\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chick’n Rice interior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chick’n Rice interior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While one could think that it doesn’t take a lot to get such a simple dish right, she’d be wrong. Keh spent several months in Thailand with Rattakul, going from place to place, seeking out who did the most flavorful sauces; who made the most delicious rice. Rattakul then sought out their favorite recipes from these chefs, and in some cases, tasted their creations and guessed how to make them himself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And because they knew they couldn’t build an entire restaurant – small as it may be – on one dish alone, they came up with three others to round out the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120442\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120442\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chick’n Rice menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chick’n Rice menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In addition to the Khao Mun Gai (known as KMG on their menu) there is Fried KMG, Braised Pork, which comes with a soy-marinated egg and Asian greens, and Fried Tofu, which also comes with Asian greens. All dishes come with rice, (the two non-chicken dishes come with plain Jasmine rice rather than the chicken rice) and soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120520\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120520\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Fried KMG - Khao Mun Gai Tod - with Chicken Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fried KMG - Khao Mun Gai Tod - with Chicken Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120456\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120456\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new.jpg\" alt=\"Braised Pork - Khao Kha Moo - with Egg & Greens with Jasmine Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Braised Pork - Khao Kha Moo - with Egg & Greens with Jasmine Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120454\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120454\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tofu - Khao Mun Tao Hoo - Greens with Jasmine Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tofu - Khao Mun Tao Hoo - Greens with Jasmine Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All ingredients for the sauces are imported from Thailand, and all the meat comes from Marin Sun Farms. Vegetables are local as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120447\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120447\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sauces that accompany the dishes.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sauces that accompany the dishes. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A small portion of each dish is $8.99, a regular is $10.99, making this a great bargain, especially for high-quality meat (we found the small large enough to satisfy one person, and the servings of rice are perhaps even a bit over generous).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We found all the proteins with the exception of the poached chicken to be well-seasoned even without the sauces, but to not use the sauces would be a crime. The fried items were not the least bit greasy and the pork was especially flavorful even pre-sauced.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We couldn’t help but wonder though, how many people except for the die-hard health nuts would order the KMG given the more attractive options of fried chicken or pork. But fear not, healthy people. Just a drizzle of this brown sauce elevates it to such a degree, that one need not fear. The only thing we didn’t like post-sauce was the skin; Keh confirmed that in Asia they eat every part of the chicken, but after poaching, the skin becomes limp and rubbery, everything you do not want chicken skin to be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120449\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120449\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new.jpg\" alt=\"All menu items at Chick'n Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All menu items at Chick'n Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The fried chicken came with sweet chili sauce; the tofu nuggets came with a different kind of soy based-sauce and the pork had a green sauce that was spicy and acidic and fragrant in the best possible way; it looked like a tomatillo salsa but of course it wasn’t; while we were told it had Thai green chilies, cilantro and vinegar in it, we tried without avail to guess what gave it its funk. It wasn’t fish sauce, and while Keh told us in a moment of weakness, he asked us to keep it a secret (and I will say that this writer, who knows a thing or two about food, had never heard of it).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We found the soup less interesting, but it too could be easily doctored up with the addition of more ginger and chilies, which they have on hand. We added some of the poached chicken to the soup, and with a bit of additional ginger and chilies, it was transformed into something an Asian grandmother might make.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leaving Chick’n Rice without dessert would be a shame.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keh called their dessert options an accident, in that they knew they wanted to offer a dessert, but had no idea what to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was hot out in Thailand, as it often is, and they wandered into a market to see what they could get that would be cool and refreshing. They found the traditional sticky rice and mango, but with a scoop of coconut ice cream. That same dessert is on offer, with a base of sticky rice cooked in coconut milk with a scoop of coconut, lychee or Thai iced tea ice cream on top. The ice cream comes from \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/polly-ann-ice-cream-san-francisco\">Polly Ann Ice Cream\u003c/a> in the Outer Sunset district of San Francisco, and next to that green sauce for the pork was our favorite dish of the night. One wouldn’t go wrong by ordering any of the three flavors, but we definitely preferred the coconut or Thai iced tea over the lychee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120462\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120462\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chick’n Rice is open daily until 10pm\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chick’n Rice is open daily 11am until 10pm \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eatchicknrice.com/\">\u003cstrong>Chick’n Rice\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2136 Center St., Berkeley [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/S2PfLs\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nHours: Open daily from 11am-10pm (Opens Friday 9/8/17)\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/eatchicknrice/\">Chick’n Rice\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eatchicknrice/\">@eatchicknrice\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $ ($8.99-$10.99 per entree)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Chop Suey: A Classic Chinese-American Dish Takes On A Mexican Flair",
"title": "Chop Suey: A Classic Chinese-American Dish Takes On A Mexican Flair",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Joaquin \"Jocko\" Fajardo, 39, grew up in Tempe, Ariz., in a large family. Mexican food was an integral part of his upbringing. And yet, the dish that reminds him of home and family is a distinctly Chinese dish, or more accurately, Chinese-American dish: chop suey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chop suey actually came to his family through a Mexican restaurant owned by his great-grandmother and great-aunt. Back in the 1960s, the two women owned a restaurant in Los Angeles. Next door to their Mexican restaurant was a Chinese restaurant. \"It lasted for a brief time, and ultimately my [great-aunt] purchased the restaurant,\" says Fajardo. \"They merged the two restaurants, keeping the Asian staff.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the women taught their new staff to make the Mexican dishes on their menu, they also learned some Asian dishes. Chop suey was one of them. But his great-aunt added distinctly Mexican bits to the recipe: cumin, jalapeno and beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"#recipe\">Jump to the recipe\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story behind the creation of this Chinese-Mexican fusion dish may seem surprising, but it illustrates a culinary exchange not uncommon in places where different cultures and cuisines coexist. And it is especially true of Chinese food in America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take, for example, the origin of chop suey itself. The dish originated in some of the first Chinese restaurants in America, many of them called chop suey houses. The story behind the dish's origin is filled with folklore, with many regions and people claiming to be its creator. But according to \u003ca href=\"//escholarship.org/uc/item/2bc4k55r.pdf\">a 2009 study\u003c/a> published in the \u003cem>Journal of Transnational American Studies\u003c/em>, there was no single creator. It probably evolved simultaneously in many restaurants. It was made by taking a humble dish made with fried animal intestines and vegetables and adapting it to the tastes of American customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When Chinese restaurants in America began to serve the dish, they had the flexibility to use whatever ingredients were available and whatever sauces they found tasteful and convenient,\" writes Haiming Liu, a professor at California State Polytechnic University, in his 2009 paper. \"There are many different versions of chop suey when it was first spread across America. The only common practice was to use a wok to stir-fry a bundle of ingredients with an innovative sauce.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result was nothing like the original dish eaten in China, which according to Liu was mostly a home-cooked dish that also \"varied from region to region.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not just chop suey that evolved to American palates. The vast majority of Chinese-American food did. In fact, Chinese cuisine in many countries has adapted to local tastes and ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinese-Indian food, for example, folds in Indian spices, paneer (Indian cheese) and plenty of Indian vegetables like potato, okra and cauliflower.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>PeruvianChinese food blends in both cuisines and goes by the name of \u003ca href=\"https://www.pri.org/stories/2014-09-05/immigration-fuels-hot-asian-fusion-food-scene-lima\">\u003cem>chifa\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>. \u003c/em>It includes fried rice, called \u003cem>arroz chaufa,\u003c/em> that includes corn, a staple in Peru.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And as \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/04/16/399637724/the-chinese-mexican-cuisine-born-of-u-s-prejudice\">The Salt has reported\u003c/a>, Chinese-Mexican food includes many staples of the local cuisine, like \"light-yellow deep-fried chilis.\" There are also rumors of chefs at Chinese restaurants marinating their pork in tequila.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So it seems only natural that a cuisine that has adapted to local tastes around the globe would continue to evolve in restaurant kitchens. But what is unique perhaps about Fajardo's chop suey — he calls it chop suey with beans — is that it was revised and reinvented not in a Chinese restaurant, but in a Mexican restaurant. And this Mexican adaptation went on to become the restaurant's \"family meal\" — the employees ate this dish at work, Fajardo says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His great-aunt even went on to teach the recipe to every woman in their extended family. \"She believed that everybody should be able to feed their family at minimal cost,\" says Fajardo. The dish, with its simple and hearty ingredients — carrots, celery, beans, chicken (or any other meat or fish) — is healthy and inexpensive. \"And it's something we came to know as auntie's stew.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Chop Suey With Beans And Rice Recipe\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 carrots, peeled and sliced diagonally\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 celery stalks, sliced diagonally\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 onion, peeled, halved and sliced thinly\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 chicken breasts, halved and cut into 1/4 inch cubes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 can water chestnuts (drain out the water)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup bean sprouts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 can black beans, drained and rinsed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups chicken stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup Basmati rice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons cornstarch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon diced jalapeño with some seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon cumin seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sea salt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rice\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cook rice in 2 cups of chicken stock. Simmer until two-thirds of the liquid has evaporated, then cover until the steam dissipates. Season lightly with salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chop Suey \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Saut carrots, celery and onion until onion is golden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the slices of chicken and sauté until browned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the sprouts, water chestnuts and black beans. Keep at a slow simmer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the remaining chicken stock with the cornstarch and jalapeño. Stir into the simmering chicken and vegetables in the pan. Allow to thicken slightly while stirring for 3-5 minutes. Season with salt to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve hot over rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Share Your Hot Pot Story\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Tell us a memory you have about a dish you love. Post a video or photo on Instagram or Twitter with the hashtag \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/search?src=typd&q=%23nprhotpot\">\u003cem>#NPRHotPot\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, and we'll gather some of our favorites and post them on NPR.org. Get the details \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/06/06/531783214/-nprhotpot-share-your-food-memories-with-us\">\u003cem>here\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Jocko Fajardo grew up in Arizona eating Mexican food. But his go-to comfort dish is a Chinese-American classic with a little Mexican thrown in. He tells us how the dish came to his family.",
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"description": "Jocko Fajardo grew up in Arizona eating Mexican food. But his go-to comfort dish is a Chinese-American classic with a little Mexican thrown in. He tells us how the dish came to his family.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Joaquin \"Jocko\" Fajardo, 39, grew up in Tempe, Ariz., in a large family. Mexican food was an integral part of his upbringing. And yet, the dish that reminds him of home and family is a distinctly Chinese dish, or more accurately, Chinese-American dish: chop suey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chop suey actually came to his family through a Mexican restaurant owned by his great-grandmother and great-aunt. Back in the 1960s, the two women owned a restaurant in Los Angeles. Next door to their Mexican restaurant was a Chinese restaurant. \"It lasted for a brief time, and ultimately my [great-aunt] purchased the restaurant,\" says Fajardo. \"They merged the two restaurants, keeping the Asian staff.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the women taught their new staff to make the Mexican dishes on their menu, they also learned some Asian dishes. Chop suey was one of them. But his great-aunt added distinctly Mexican bits to the recipe: cumin, jalapeno and beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"#recipe\">Jump to the recipe\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story behind the creation of this Chinese-Mexican fusion dish may seem surprising, but it illustrates a culinary exchange not uncommon in places where different cultures and cuisines coexist. And it is especially true of Chinese food in America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take, for example, the origin of chop suey itself. The dish originated in some of the first Chinese restaurants in America, many of them called chop suey houses. The story behind the dish's origin is filled with folklore, with many regions and people claiming to be its creator. But according to \u003ca href=\"//escholarship.org/uc/item/2bc4k55r.pdf\">a 2009 study\u003c/a> published in the \u003cem>Journal of Transnational American Studies\u003c/em>, there was no single creator. It probably evolved simultaneously in many restaurants. It was made by taking a humble dish made with fried animal intestines and vegetables and adapting it to the tastes of American customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When Chinese restaurants in America began to serve the dish, they had the flexibility to use whatever ingredients were available and whatever sauces they found tasteful and convenient,\" writes Haiming Liu, a professor at California State Polytechnic University, in his 2009 paper. \"There are many different versions of chop suey when it was first spread across America. The only common practice was to use a wok to stir-fry a bundle of ingredients with an innovative sauce.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result was nothing like the original dish eaten in China, which according to Liu was mostly a home-cooked dish that also \"varied from region to region.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not just chop suey that evolved to American palates. The vast majority of Chinese-American food did. In fact, Chinese cuisine in many countries has adapted to local tastes and ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chinese-Indian food, for example, folds in Indian spices, paneer (Indian cheese) and plenty of Indian vegetables like potato, okra and cauliflower.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>PeruvianChinese food blends in both cuisines and goes by the name of \u003ca href=\"https://www.pri.org/stories/2014-09-05/immigration-fuels-hot-asian-fusion-food-scene-lima\">\u003cem>chifa\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>. \u003c/em>It includes fried rice, called \u003cem>arroz chaufa,\u003c/em> that includes corn, a staple in Peru.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And as \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/04/16/399637724/the-chinese-mexican-cuisine-born-of-u-s-prejudice\">The Salt has reported\u003c/a>, Chinese-Mexican food includes many staples of the local cuisine, like \"light-yellow deep-fried chilis.\" There are also rumors of chefs at Chinese restaurants marinating their pork in tequila.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So it seems only natural that a cuisine that has adapted to local tastes around the globe would continue to evolve in restaurant kitchens. But what is unique perhaps about Fajardo's chop suey — he calls it chop suey with beans — is that it was revised and reinvented not in a Chinese restaurant, but in a Mexican restaurant. And this Mexican adaptation went on to become the restaurant's \"family meal\" — the employees ate this dish at work, Fajardo says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His great-aunt even went on to teach the recipe to every woman in their extended family. \"She believed that everybody should be able to feed their family at minimal cost,\" says Fajardo. The dish, with its simple and hearty ingredients — carrots, celery, beans, chicken (or any other meat or fish) — is healthy and inexpensive. \"And it's something we came to know as auntie's stew.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Chop Suey With Beans And Rice Recipe\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 carrots, peeled and sliced diagonally\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 celery stalks, sliced diagonally\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 onion, peeled, halved and sliced thinly\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 chicken breasts, halved and cut into 1/4 inch cubes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 can water chestnuts (drain out the water)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup bean sprouts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 can black beans, drained and rinsed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups chicken stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup Basmati rice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons cornstarch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon diced jalapeño with some seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon cumin seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sea salt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rice\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cook rice in 2 cups of chicken stock. Simmer until two-thirds of the liquid has evaporated, then cover until the steam dissipates. Season lightly with salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chop Suey \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Saut carrots, celery and onion until onion is golden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the slices of chicken and sauté until browned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the sprouts, water chestnuts and black beans. Keep at a slow simmer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the remaining chicken stock with the cornstarch and jalapeño. Stir into the simmering chicken and vegetables in the pan. Allow to thicken slightly while stirring for 3-5 minutes. Season with salt to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve hot over rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Share Your Hot Pot Story\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Tell us a memory you have about a dish you love. Post a video or photo on Instagram or Twitter with the hashtag \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/search?src=typd&q=%23nprhotpot\">\u003cem>#NPRHotPot\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, and we'll gather some of our favorites and post them on NPR.org. Get the details \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/06/06/531783214/-nprhotpot-share-your-food-memories-with-us\">\u003cem>here\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "An Invitation to Slurp: Famous Japanese Ramen Empire Ippudo to Open in Berkeley on July 28",
"title": "An Invitation to Slurp: Famous Japanese Ramen Empire Ippudo to Open in Berkeley on July 28",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Noodles made on site and bone broth simmered for 20 hours are two of the keys to Ippudo’s superior quality.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Signs all over the handsome new space, with a golden-hued, wood-centric dining room and a gleaming stainless-steel kitchen with steam rising in various sections, have “zuzutto” written on them: slurp noisily. Say the word out loud: zuzutto! It’s onomatopoeic, and while Americans have a hard time with the concept, slurping one’s ramen actually helps increase one’s enjoyment of it, dispersing the aromatics into the nether reaches of the palate and up into the retronasal canal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119426\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-119426\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space.jpg\" alt=\"The Ippudo dining area\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Ippudo dining area \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Let’s cut to the chase: It’s worth it.\u003c/strong> Vow to yourself in advance not to complain about the long lines you’ll inevitably encounter, because waiting for ramen this good is a small price to pay for such game-changing deliciousness. Call it a gift, even, an opportunity to anticipate pleasure. Ippudo, the Japanese ramen chain founded by ramen master Shigemi Kawahara in Fukuoka in 1985, has not been diluted by its expansion throughout Asia, then into New York, London, Australia, and now Berkeley (soon to be followed by San Francisco). That’s partly because the restaurant’s vision has remained consistent: Keep changing to remain unchanged. And because the noodles and the pork broth that form the heart of these steaming bowls are made every day on site.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119409\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-119409\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen.jpg\" alt=\"Ippudo's akamaru modern ramen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ippudo's akamaru modern ramen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The most stereotypical American view of homemade pasta might be the image of an Italian grandmother bearing all her weight on a wooden roller, working the dough that will become any number of possible pasta shapes. But homemade pasta in Ippudo’s ramen state of mind is higher-tech. A giant machine in the back room holds a roll of dough in one long, flat sheet, tidy as new roll of paper towels, just mixed by an adjacent large machine. With the flip of a switch, the dough rolls out and is cut, then calibrated by hand-measuring. Once the machine is properly set, the ramen maker scoops up each batch (enough for a big bowl), then gently folds it and lays it out to dry in a little nest-like bunch, serving by serving. Where Italian pasta-making is a flexible art, ramen making of this variety is a precision skill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/8ojuHdFFI80\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119422\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-119422\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles.jpg\" alt=\"Ippudo's fresh-made noodles\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ippudo's fresh-made noodles \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As important as the noodles are to the ramen equation, even more important is the broth, and I would argue that Ippudo’s approach to broth is what gives it a leg up on any competition I’ve tried, including the wonderful Ramen Shop, which has a more local-seasonal approach and is admittedly more creative. Ippudo is going more for a carrying out of longstanding tradition than a reinvention of the wheel. Big buckets of pork bones are dropped into pots of boiling water nearly three feet tall and kept on simmer for more than 20 hours. The style of ramen you order depends on how much lard is added back in to the finished dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery columns=\"2\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"119411,119410\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/wRKIGOMaFO4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ippudo’s three basic styles of broth are:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>shiromaru: long-simmered tonkatsu (pork) broth with their signature dashi\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>akamaru modern: the above tonkatsu broth with secret “umami dama” miso paste to richen it\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>karaka spicy: tonkatsu broth with a blend of chiles and other secret spices\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119491\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new.jpg\" alt=\"Karaka Spicy Ramen at Ippudo\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119491\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Karaka Spicy Ramen at Ippudo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once you choose your soup style, you then decide how firm you’d like your noodles. “Yawa” is soft and “kata” is al dente (to borrow an Italian term), and “badi” means very, so “bari yawa” is very soft and “bari gata” is very firm. All of these fine gradations, which are discernable on the palate, are the result of just a few-second shift in cooking time, the entire range of styles cooked for between 20 and 40 seconds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119435\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-119435\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen.jpg\" alt=\"The noodles are cooked in individual strainers to control portion size and firmness.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The noodles are cooked in individual strainers to control portion size and firmness. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ippudo’s staff has come to know their ramen ways as “intentional” (intentionality being a value) ameliorating any concerns I had about the large chain-ness of this business. If American businesses had more intentionality in their basic endeavors, then our chains would likely be of much higher quality, too. The approach is quite poetic, in my estimation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119472\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-119472\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change.jpg\" alt=\"Ippudo's Principle: Keep changing to remain unchanged.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ippudo's Principle: Keep changing to remain unchanged. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119424\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-119424\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team.jpg\" alt=\"Ippudo's server team\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ippudo's server team \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Each bowl is then topped with a whole soft-boiled, seasoned egg, scallions and marinated wood ear mushrooms. Simple perfection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119476\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-119476\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings.jpg\" alt=\"Ramen ready to be served\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ramen ready to be served \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And let’s not forget about the appetizers. We sampled the legendary pork buns, which were also profound in their simplicity: just pork belly, mayonnaise and a leaf of iceberg lettuce. The fried eggplant buns were just as good, and the fried chicken will, mark my word, become a Berkeley legend in no time. Crisp cucumber slices in sesame sauce punctuate the rich pork fat throughout the meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"119438,119445,119441,119442,119437\"]\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Ippudo has a sake philosophy, too: rice + wheat = harmony, the opposite of our paleo-leaning trends in the U.S. Taste for yourself. Choose one of four sake styles: mild and gentle, fragrant and luxurious, clean and crisp, or classic and aged, and pair with the various ramen choices. As a standalone drink, I tend to prefer the aged sakes that are more toasty and wood-framed than sweet (like the Daishichi Kimoto Honjozo), but with the spicy broth I think the fruit- and floral-toned Nanbu Bijin Tokubetsu Junmai works best, as it offers the ballast of elegant sweetness, much in the way a Riesling pairs well with spicy Thai food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119407\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-119407\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake.jpg\" alt=\"Sake at Ippudo\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sake at Ippudo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two parting pieces of information: Yes, the kitchen uses MSG. Go with it. And don’t over-order, as there are no to-go boxes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>See you in line at Ippudo!\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119414\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-119414\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior.jpg\" alt=\"Ippudo exterior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ippudo exterior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ippudo-us.com/\">\u003cstrong>Ippudo\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2015 Shattuck Ave. [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/DhsMrU\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nBerkeley, CA 94704\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 666-8807\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Thu, 11am-11pm; Fri-Sat, 11am-midnight; Sun, 11am-10pm\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $-$$ ($14-$20 ramen)\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/IppudoUS\">@IppudoUS\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ippudo_us\">@ippudo_us\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ippudous/\">@ippudous\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Noodles made on site and bone broth simmered for 20 hours are two of the keys to Ippudo’s superior quality.\r\n",
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"description": "Noodles made on site and bone broth simmered for 20 hours are two of the keys to Ippudo’s superior quality.\r\n",
"title": "An Invitation to Slurp: Famous Japanese Ramen Empire Ippudo to Open in Berkeley on July 28 | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Noodles made on site and bone broth simmered for 20 hours are two of the keys to Ippudo’s superior quality.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Signs all over the handsome new space, with a golden-hued, wood-centric dining room and a gleaming stainless-steel kitchen with steam rising in various sections, have “zuzutto” written on them: slurp noisily. Say the word out loud: zuzutto! It’s onomatopoeic, and while Americans have a hard time with the concept, slurping one’s ramen actually helps increase one’s enjoyment of it, dispersing the aromatics into the nether reaches of the palate and up into the retronasal canal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119426\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-119426\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space.jpg\" alt=\"The Ippudo dining area\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-zuzutto-space-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Ippudo dining area \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Let’s cut to the chase: It’s worth it.\u003c/strong> Vow to yourself in advance not to complain about the long lines you’ll inevitably encounter, because waiting for ramen this good is a small price to pay for such game-changing deliciousness. Call it a gift, even, an opportunity to anticipate pleasure. Ippudo, the Japanese ramen chain founded by ramen master Shigemi Kawahara in Fukuoka in 1985, has not been diluted by its expansion throughout Asia, then into New York, London, Australia, and now Berkeley (soon to be followed by San Francisco). That’s partly because the restaurant’s vision has remained consistent: Keep changing to remain unchanged. And because the noodles and the pork broth that form the heart of these steaming bowls are made every day on site.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119409\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-119409\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen.jpg\" alt=\"Ippudo's akamaru modern ramen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/akamaru-modern-ramen-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ippudo's akamaru modern ramen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The most stereotypical American view of homemade pasta might be the image of an Italian grandmother bearing all her weight on a wooden roller, working the dough that will become any number of possible pasta shapes. But homemade pasta in Ippudo’s ramen state of mind is higher-tech. A giant machine in the back room holds a roll of dough in one long, flat sheet, tidy as new roll of paper towels, just mixed by an adjacent large machine. With the flip of a switch, the dough rolls out and is cut, then calibrated by hand-measuring. Once the machine is properly set, the ramen maker scoops up each batch (enough for a big bowl), then gently folds it and lays it out to dry in a little nest-like bunch, serving by serving. Where Italian pasta-making is a flexible art, ramen making of this variety is a precision skill.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/8ojuHdFFI80'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/8ojuHdFFI80'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119422\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-119422\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles.jpg\" alt=\"Ippudo's fresh-made noodles\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ippudo's fresh-made noodles \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As important as the noodles are to the ramen equation, even more important is the broth, and I would argue that Ippudo’s approach to broth is what gives it a leg up on any competition I’ve tried, including the wonderful Ramen Shop, which has a more local-seasonal approach and is admittedly more creative. Ippudo is going more for a carrying out of longstanding tradition than a reinvention of the wheel. Big buckets of pork bones are dropped into pots of boiling water nearly three feet tall and kept on simmer for more than 20 hours. The style of ramen you order depends on how much lard is added back in to the finished dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/wRKIGOMaFO4'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/wRKIGOMaFO4'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ippudo’s three basic styles of broth are:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>shiromaru: long-simmered tonkatsu (pork) broth with their signature dashi\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>akamaru modern: the above tonkatsu broth with secret “umami dama” miso paste to richen it\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>karaka spicy: tonkatsu broth with a blend of chiles and other secret spices\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119491\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new.jpg\" alt=\"Karaka Spicy Ramen at Ippudo\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119491\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/karaka-spicy-ramen-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Karaka Spicy Ramen at Ippudo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once you choose your soup style, you then decide how firm you’d like your noodles. “Yawa” is soft and “kata” is al dente (to borrow an Italian term), and “badi” means very, so “bari yawa” is very soft and “bari gata” is very firm. All of these fine gradations, which are discernable on the palate, are the result of just a few-second shift in cooking time, the entire range of styles cooked for between 20 and 40 seconds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119435\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-119435\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen.jpg\" alt=\"The noodles are cooked in individual strainers to control portion size and firmness.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-noodles-kitchen-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The noodles are cooked in individual strainers to control portion size and firmness. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ippudo’s staff has come to know their ramen ways as “intentional” (intentionality being a value) ameliorating any concerns I had about the large chain-ness of this business. If American businesses had more intentionality in their basic endeavors, then our chains would likely be of much higher quality, too. The approach is quite poetic, in my estimation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119472\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-119472\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change.jpg\" alt=\"Ippudo's Principle: Keep changing to remain unchanged.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-change-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ippudo's Principle: Keep changing to remain unchanged. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119424\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-119424\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team.jpg\" alt=\"Ippudo's server team\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-staff-team-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ippudo's server team \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Each bowl is then topped with a whole soft-boiled, seasoned egg, scallions and marinated wood ear mushrooms. Simple perfection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119476\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-119476\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings.jpg\" alt=\"Ramen ready to be served\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/serve-egg-toppings-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ramen ready to be served \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And let’s not forget about the appetizers. We sampled the legendary pork buns, which were also profound in their simplicity: just pork belly, mayonnaise and a leaf of iceberg lettuce. The fried eggplant buns were just as good, and the fried chicken will, mark my word, become a Berkeley legend in no time. Crisp cucumber slices in sesame sauce punctuate the rich pork fat throughout the meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Ippudo has a sake philosophy, too: rice + wheat = harmony, the opposite of our paleo-leaning trends in the U.S. Taste for yourself. Choose one of four sake styles: mild and gentle, fragrant and luxurious, clean and crisp, or classic and aged, and pair with the various ramen choices. As a standalone drink, I tend to prefer the aged sakes that are more toasty and wood-framed than sweet (like the Daishichi Kimoto Honjozo), but with the spicy broth I think the fruit- and floral-toned Nanbu Bijin Tokubetsu Junmai works best, as it offers the ballast of elegant sweetness, much in the way a Riesling pairs well with spicy Thai food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119407\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-119407\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake.jpg\" alt=\"Sake at Ippudo\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/sake-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sake at Ippudo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two parting pieces of information: Yes, the kitchen uses MSG. Go with it. And don’t over-order, as there are no to-go boxes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>See you in line at Ippudo!\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119414\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-119414\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior.jpg\" alt=\"Ippudo exterior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ippudo-exterior-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ippudo exterior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ippudo-us.com/\">\u003cstrong>Ippudo\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2015 Shattuck Ave. [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/DhsMrU\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nBerkeley, CA 94704\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 666-8807\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Thu, 11am-11pm; Fri-Sat, 11am-midnight; Sun, 11am-10pm\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $-$$ ($14-$20 ramen)\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/IppudoUS\">@IppudoUS\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ippudo_us\">@ippudo_us\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ippudous/\">@ippudous\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Chinese Laborers Built Sonoma's Wineries. Racist Neighbors Drove Them Out",
"title": "Chinese Laborers Built Sonoma's Wineries. Racist Neighbors Drove Them Out",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119114\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/transporting-wine-95f9af075d22ecf0aef6d5e5429b26f9702c44ff-e1499978410695.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese workers transport wine at Buena Vista, the oldest winery in California's Sonoma County, built in the mid-1800s. From the backbreaking labor of clearing roads and digging out caves to highly skilled horticultural work, Chinese laborers helped build Sonoma's wine country.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1439\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119114\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chinese workers transport wine at Buena Vista, the oldest winery in California's Sonoma County, built in the mid-1800s. From the backbreaking labor of clearing roads and digging out caves to highly skilled horticultural work, Chinese laborers helped build Sonoma's wine country. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Buena Vista winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In Sonoma Valley about an hour north of San Francisco, there are many reminders of the immigrants who built California's wine industry: tasting rooms that look like Italian villas or signs bearing French names. But you won't see any vestiges of the group that made up an estimated 80 percent of the workforce that first put Sonoma vineyards on the map: the Chinese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Not many Chinese people in this little town now,\" says Jack Ding, an immigrant from Jiangsu, China, who has been living in Sonoma since 2008. \"But some of my neighbors and friends said, 'Hey Jack, you're Chinese. Let me tell you stories of Chinese who lived here 50, 100 or 150 years ago.' These were verbal stories from the family, generation by generation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of those friends was Gordon Phillips, a retired attorney and local historian who spent nine years researching the history of Chinese in Sonoma, poring over books, census data and old newspapers searching for articles, editorials and political advertisements mentioning Chinese workers. \"All these vintners were making money off these initial Chinese workers and nobody knows about it,\" Phillips says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To understand how Chinese workers arrived in California's wine country, one must look to the east — to the Sierra Nevada. As the Gold Rush of the mid-1800s petered out and the construction of the transcontinental railroad neared completion, there were Chinese immigrants looking for work. That's where two key immigrants came into play. In 1857, a wealthy Hungarian named Agoston Haraszthy purchased a ranch in Sonoma Valley and named it Buena Vista, with the vision of introducing winemaking techniques from his homeland. Historian Charles L. Sullivan, author of numerous books about California's wine industry, calls Haraszthy \"the great supporter of Chinese labor in the vineyards.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119113\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ho-po_sq-127369c2e65bc54adcb3d96966979fa6b30cbb26-e1499978486820.jpg\" alt=\"Ho Po, a Chinese labor contractor from San Francisco, sent 150 of his countrymen to build Buena Vista.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1921\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119113\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ho Po, a Chinese labor contractor from San Francisco, sent 150 of his countrymen to build Buena Vista. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Buena Vista winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Haraszthy turned to Ho Po, a Chinese labor contractor from San Francisco, who sent 150 of his countrymen to build Buena Vista, Sonoma's oldest commercial winery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those caves are still in use today at Buena Vista winery, where visitors can tour the 15-by-30-foot spaces carved out of rock. \"Workers literally dug the caves by hand,\" says Tom Blackwood, general manager of Buena Vista Winery. \"They still have the original markings. Those were the same skills they were using through the railroad.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Photos of Chinese men working in the fields and bottling wine are displayed in Buena Vista's tasting room. \"We feel it's more important than ever to talk about the reason we exist and the people who contributed to it — Chinese, Hungarian, French,\" says Jean-Charles Boisset, whose family company, Boisset Collection, bought the winery in 2011.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cecilia Tsu, a history professor at the University of California, Davis who studies Asian-Americans in the West, points out that winemaking is much more labor-intensive than wheat or other crops grown earlier in the state.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119115\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 641px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c.jpg\" alt=\"Photos of Chinese men working in the fields and bottling wine are displayed in Buena Vista's tasting room. "We feel it's more important than ever to talk about the reason we exist and the people who contributed to it − Chinese, Hungarian, French," says Jean-Charles Boisset, whose family company, Boisset Collection, bought the winery in 2011.\" width=\"641\" height=\"641\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119115\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c.jpg 641w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-160x160.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-240x240.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-375x375.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-520x520.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 641px) 100vw, 641px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photos of Chinese men working in the fields and bottling wine are displayed in Buena Vista's tasting room. \"We feel it's more important than ever to talk about the reason we exist and the people who contributed to it − Chinese, Hungarian, French,\" says Jean-Charles Boisset, whose family company, Boisset Collection, bought the winery in 2011. \u003ccite>( Eadweard Muybridge/Courtesy of Buena Vista winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Chinese immigrants were indispensable on multiple levels,\" says Tsu. \"They built roads; cleared land for farming; planted, pruned and harvested grapes. They did backbreaking, physical labor, as well as horticultural work that required significant knowledge and skill.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Without Chinese workers, perhaps California wouldn't be famous for its most popular varietals. In his 2004 book \u003cem>The Beasts of the Field,\u003c/em> Richard Steven Street notes that between 1856 and 1869, Chinese planted the majority of Sonoma County's 3.2 million grapevines. \"The Chinese also played a key role in improving wine quality by ripping out old mission grape vineyards and replanting them with Riesling, Muscatel, Traminer, Black Hamburg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and other fine French and European varieties,\" writes Street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However, as the vineyards grew, so did backlash against the Chinese on the West Coast. Anti-Chinese leagues were formed in many counties, with whites accusing Chinese of undercutting wages. Asians were paid about $30 per month, while white workers were paid up to $50 monthly. Others complained that the Chinese were unable to assimilate into local culture. Racism was common in nearby wine-producing areas, such as Napa and the Russian River Valley, although the Sonoma Valley might have been more hospitable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There was virtually no organized anti-Chinese agitation in the Sonoma Valley during the 1870s, much unlike what was common throughout much of the Bay Area, particularly in San Jose, Santa Rosa and Petaluma, even Napa,\" writes Sullivan in a \u003ca href=\"http://waywardtendrils.com/pdfs/vol.24_2014.pdf\">2014 article in the Wayward Tendrils Quarterly\u003c/a>. Haraszthy refused to stop employing Chinese at Buena Vista, despite the growing political opposition. He began carrying a gun to protect himself, and in 1868, he fled to Nicaragua to produce rum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile in wine country, nativist sentiments continued to take root. By 1877, lawmakers in Washington, D.C., debated a bill to stop Chinese immigration. Sonoma Valley grape grower John Hill testified in Congress to defend Chinese labor. \"He explained that Sonoma Valley grape growers depended on the 500 Chinese laborers employed in his 'neighborhood,' \" Phillips wrote in his 2015 thesis for his master's degree from Sonoma State University.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But spurred on by Denis Kearney's Workingmen's Party, a labor-oriented political group that supported nativist policies, Congress eventually passed the Chinese Exclusion Act in 1882, barring nearly all immigration from China. And whites drove out Chinese from many rural areas throughout the West. \"There was a movement to forcibly remove all the Chinese from Sonoma by starving them out — don't hire, don't patronize any shops that hire Chinese. During that period, a lot of Chinese left Sonoma. They were chewing on weeds down by the riverbanks, things got so bad,\" explains Phillips. According to U.S. Census data, the Chinese population in Sonoma County dropped \u003ca href=\"https://www2.census.gov/prod2/decennial/documents/1890a_v1-13.pdf\">from 1,145 in 1890\u003c/a> to \u003ca href=\"https://www2.census.gov/prod2/decennial/documents/1890a_v1-13.pdf\">fewer than 200 in 1930\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That ugly past isn't always highlighted in the popular lore of the West. Nor are the contributions of the Chinese. \"We tend to assume that native-born American growers and maybe some European immigrants were pioneers of viticulture in California,\" Tsu says. \"[But] in reality, they were utterly dependent on Chinese immigrant labor.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That erasure bothers Ding. \"It feels bad,\" he says. \"I went to a bookstore to look at Sonoma history books. I bought one, and I didn't see any pictures of the Chinese laborers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recently, there's been a movement to call attention to the Chinese legacy in wine country. Last fall, Phillips and Ding — along with the Sonoma-Penglai Sister City Committee — went before the Sonoma City Council to propose the building of a monument to the early Chinese. The council unanimously voted to approve the construction of a \u003cem>ting\u003c/em> (a tile-roofed covered pavilion) in a city park. \"It's a physical object that people can see is Chinese,\" explains Phillips. \"It'll attract their attention to something Chinese. When they read the plaque, they'll realize the vineyards are here based on a lot of Chinese labor.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However, the city isn't funding the $75,000 cost of construction. The northeastern Chinese city of Penglai, also known for wine production, is donating $25,000. With other \u003ca href=\"https://sonomasistercitiesassociation.org/donors-to-the-wine-country-chinese-legacy-project-we-thank-you/\">fundraising\u003c/a>, the volunteers have raised $50,000. Construction is expected to begin as soon as the remainder of the money is raised.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Grace Hwang Lynch is a multimedia journalist based in the San Francisco Bay Area. She is currently working on a memoir about food, identity and caretaking. Follow her blog, \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://hapamama.com/\">HapaMama.com\u003c/a>\u003cem>, or on Twitter @GraceHwangLynch.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Enjoying a chardonnay or cabernet sauvignon? In the 1800s, Chinese immigrants helped introduce those iconic varietals to California's wine country. But as vineyards grew, so did anti-Chinese fervor.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119114\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/transporting-wine-95f9af075d22ecf0aef6d5e5429b26f9702c44ff-e1499978410695.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese workers transport wine at Buena Vista, the oldest winery in California's Sonoma County, built in the mid-1800s. From the backbreaking labor of clearing roads and digging out caves to highly skilled horticultural work, Chinese laborers helped build Sonoma's wine country.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1439\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119114\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chinese workers transport wine at Buena Vista, the oldest winery in California's Sonoma County, built in the mid-1800s. From the backbreaking labor of clearing roads and digging out caves to highly skilled horticultural work, Chinese laborers helped build Sonoma's wine country. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Buena Vista winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In Sonoma Valley about an hour north of San Francisco, there are many reminders of the immigrants who built California's wine industry: tasting rooms that look like Italian villas or signs bearing French names. But you won't see any vestiges of the group that made up an estimated 80 percent of the workforce that first put Sonoma vineyards on the map: the Chinese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Not many Chinese people in this little town now,\" says Jack Ding, an immigrant from Jiangsu, China, who has been living in Sonoma since 2008. \"But some of my neighbors and friends said, 'Hey Jack, you're Chinese. Let me tell you stories of Chinese who lived here 50, 100 or 150 years ago.' These were verbal stories from the family, generation by generation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of those friends was Gordon Phillips, a retired attorney and local historian who spent nine years researching the history of Chinese in Sonoma, poring over books, census data and old newspapers searching for articles, editorials and political advertisements mentioning Chinese workers. \"All these vintners were making money off these initial Chinese workers and nobody knows about it,\" Phillips says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To understand how Chinese workers arrived in California's wine country, one must look to the east — to the Sierra Nevada. As the Gold Rush of the mid-1800s petered out and the construction of the transcontinental railroad neared completion, there were Chinese immigrants looking for work. That's where two key immigrants came into play. In 1857, a wealthy Hungarian named Agoston Haraszthy purchased a ranch in Sonoma Valley and named it Buena Vista, with the vision of introducing winemaking techniques from his homeland. Historian Charles L. Sullivan, author of numerous books about California's wine industry, calls Haraszthy \"the great supporter of Chinese labor in the vineyards.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119113\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/ho-po_sq-127369c2e65bc54adcb3d96966979fa6b30cbb26-e1499978486820.jpg\" alt=\"Ho Po, a Chinese labor contractor from San Francisco, sent 150 of his countrymen to build Buena Vista.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1921\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119113\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ho Po, a Chinese labor contractor from San Francisco, sent 150 of his countrymen to build Buena Vista. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Buena Vista winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Haraszthy turned to Ho Po, a Chinese labor contractor from San Francisco, who sent 150 of his countrymen to build Buena Vista, Sonoma's oldest commercial winery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those caves are still in use today at Buena Vista winery, where visitors can tour the 15-by-30-foot spaces carved out of rock. \"Workers literally dug the caves by hand,\" says Tom Blackwood, general manager of Buena Vista Winery. \"They still have the original markings. Those were the same skills they were using through the railroad.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Photos of Chinese men working in the fields and bottling wine are displayed in Buena Vista's tasting room. \"We feel it's more important than ever to talk about the reason we exist and the people who contributed to it — Chinese, Hungarian, French,\" says Jean-Charles Boisset, whose family company, Boisset Collection, bought the winery in 2011.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cecilia Tsu, a history professor at the University of California, Davis who studies Asian-Americans in the West, points out that winemaking is much more labor-intensive than wheat or other crops grown earlier in the state.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119115\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 641px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c.jpg\" alt=\"Photos of Chinese men working in the fields and bottling wine are displayed in Buena Vista's tasting room. "We feel it's more important than ever to talk about the reason we exist and the people who contributed to it − Chinese, Hungarian, French," says Jean-Charles Boisset, whose family company, Boisset Collection, bought the winery in 2011.\" width=\"641\" height=\"641\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119115\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c.jpg 641w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-160x160.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-240x240.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-375x375.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-520x520.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/bottlingatbuenavista_sq-f6d676a14a65b0faf288d661312b4ccec578023c-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 641px) 100vw, 641px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photos of Chinese men working in the fields and bottling wine are displayed in Buena Vista's tasting room. \"We feel it's more important than ever to talk about the reason we exist and the people who contributed to it − Chinese, Hungarian, French,\" says Jean-Charles Boisset, whose family company, Boisset Collection, bought the winery in 2011. \u003ccite>( Eadweard Muybridge/Courtesy of Buena Vista winery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Chinese immigrants were indispensable on multiple levels,\" says Tsu. \"They built roads; cleared land for farming; planted, pruned and harvested grapes. They did backbreaking, physical labor, as well as horticultural work that required significant knowledge and skill.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Without Chinese workers, perhaps California wouldn't be famous for its most popular varietals. In his 2004 book \u003cem>The Beasts of the Field,\u003c/em> Richard Steven Street notes that between 1856 and 1869, Chinese planted the majority of Sonoma County's 3.2 million grapevines. \"The Chinese also played a key role in improving wine quality by ripping out old mission grape vineyards and replanting them with Riesling, Muscatel, Traminer, Black Hamburg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and other fine French and European varieties,\" writes Street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However, as the vineyards grew, so did backlash against the Chinese on the West Coast. Anti-Chinese leagues were formed in many counties, with whites accusing Chinese of undercutting wages. Asians were paid about $30 per month, while white workers were paid up to $50 monthly. Others complained that the Chinese were unable to assimilate into local culture. Racism was common in nearby wine-producing areas, such as Napa and the Russian River Valley, although the Sonoma Valley might have been more hospitable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There was virtually no organized anti-Chinese agitation in the Sonoma Valley during the 1870s, much unlike what was common throughout much of the Bay Area, particularly in San Jose, Santa Rosa and Petaluma, even Napa,\" writes Sullivan in a \u003ca href=\"http://waywardtendrils.com/pdfs/vol.24_2014.pdf\">2014 article in the Wayward Tendrils Quarterly\u003c/a>. Haraszthy refused to stop employing Chinese at Buena Vista, despite the growing political opposition. He began carrying a gun to protect himself, and in 1868, he fled to Nicaragua to produce rum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile in wine country, nativist sentiments continued to take root. By 1877, lawmakers in Washington, D.C., debated a bill to stop Chinese immigration. Sonoma Valley grape grower John Hill testified in Congress to defend Chinese labor. \"He explained that Sonoma Valley grape growers depended on the 500 Chinese laborers employed in his 'neighborhood,' \" Phillips wrote in his 2015 thesis for his master's degree from Sonoma State University.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But spurred on by Denis Kearney's Workingmen's Party, a labor-oriented political group that supported nativist policies, Congress eventually passed the Chinese Exclusion Act in 1882, barring nearly all immigration from China. And whites drove out Chinese from many rural areas throughout the West. \"There was a movement to forcibly remove all the Chinese from Sonoma by starving them out — don't hire, don't patronize any shops that hire Chinese. During that period, a lot of Chinese left Sonoma. They were chewing on weeds down by the riverbanks, things got so bad,\" explains Phillips. According to U.S. Census data, the Chinese population in Sonoma County dropped \u003ca href=\"https://www2.census.gov/prod2/decennial/documents/1890a_v1-13.pdf\">from 1,145 in 1890\u003c/a> to \u003ca href=\"https://www2.census.gov/prod2/decennial/documents/1890a_v1-13.pdf\">fewer than 200 in 1930\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That ugly past isn't always highlighted in the popular lore of the West. Nor are the contributions of the Chinese. \"We tend to assume that native-born American growers and maybe some European immigrants were pioneers of viticulture in California,\" Tsu says. \"[But] in reality, they were utterly dependent on Chinese immigrant labor.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That erasure bothers Ding. \"It feels bad,\" he says. \"I went to a bookstore to look at Sonoma history books. I bought one, and I didn't see any pictures of the Chinese laborers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recently, there's been a movement to call attention to the Chinese legacy in wine country. Last fall, Phillips and Ding — along with the Sonoma-Penglai Sister City Committee — went before the Sonoma City Council to propose the building of a monument to the early Chinese. The council unanimously voted to approve the construction of a \u003cem>ting\u003c/em> (a tile-roofed covered pavilion) in a city park. \"It's a physical object that people can see is Chinese,\" explains Phillips. \"It'll attract their attention to something Chinese. When they read the plaque, they'll realize the vineyards are here based on a lot of Chinese labor.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However, the city isn't funding the $75,000 cost of construction. The northeastern Chinese city of Penglai, also known for wine production, is donating $25,000. With other \u003ca href=\"https://sonomasistercitiesassociation.org/donors-to-the-wine-country-chinese-legacy-project-we-thank-you/\">fundraising\u003c/a>, the volunteers have raised $50,000. Construction is expected to begin as soon as the remainder of the money is raised.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Grace Hwang Lynch is a multimedia journalist based in the San Francisco Bay Area. She is currently working on a memoir about food, identity and caretaking. Follow her blog, \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://hapamama.com/\">HapaMama.com\u003c/a>\u003cem>, or on Twitter @GraceHwangLynch.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Nonprofit Helps California's Asian-American Farmers Grow Their Business",
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"content": "\u003cp>Growing up, Youa Yang did not envision himself taking over his family's business. His parents were Hmong refugees from Laos who arrived in Fresno, Calif., in the late 1980s and settled down to become farmers. He went to college for economics and mathematics and found himself knee-deep in the finance industry immediately after graduating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, while doing volunteer work, Yang crossed paths with Kyle Tsukahira, a program manager at \u003ca href=\"http://apifm.org/\">Asian Pacific Islander Forward Movement\u003c/a> (API), a non-profit dedicated to bringing culturally relevant produce to the Asian enclaves of Los Angeles. It was API that helped Yang see that his family farm had a lot more potential to grow – and gave him the tools to do it, like counseling in marketing, how to obtain organic certifications and the latest farming policies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Yang, 29, helps his parents run Padao Farms, a 15-acre plot that specializes in traditional Asian greens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then Yang went from client to consultant. He's fluent in Hmong and he helps translate the organization's workshops for his fellow Hmong farmers in the Central Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It made me think about what I really wanted to do in life and the blessings that I had,\" he says. \"What I realized is that my parents are farming in Fresno and that they could use my talents and abilities.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yang's family farm grows a wide variety of produce catering specifically to an Asian palate. On a late spring day at the farm, one might find water spinach, with hollow stems that soak in the flavor of the garlic, and yam leaves, which are best gently sautéed with a dash of salt. There's bitter melon, which pairs well with black beans, and daikon roots, which are ideally pickled with a bit of white vinegar and sugar. The well-known bok choy is also available and is especially tasty when married to garlic, with a bit of salt and pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to farmers' markets across California, Yang's produce is distributed through \u003ca href=\"rootscsa.org\">Roots\u003c/a>, API's Los Angeles-based community-supported agriculture program, which he says has generated significant extra revenue for his farm and provided much-needed marketing assistance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119072\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a.jpg\" alt=\"A farmer checks on produce at Padao Farms, a 15-acre plot run by the Yang family in Fresno, Calif., that specializes in Asian greens.A farmer checks on produce at Padao Farms, a 15-acre plot run by the Yang family in Fresno, Calif., that specializes in Asian greens.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119072\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A farmer checks on produce at Padao Farms, a 15-acre plot run by the Yang family in Fresno, Calif., that specializes in Asian greens. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Asian Pacific Islander Forward Movement)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"What is most difficult about farmers' market for farmers is not only the number [of] trips that it takes, but that they're not guaranteed to sell [their produce] or make the trip worth it,\" says API's Tsukahira.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Founded in 2013, API works directly with Asian farmers like Yang across California to provide local and healthy food to the Asian and Pacific Islander population in Los Angeles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the 2010 census, the greater Los Angeles metropolitan area has the highest concentration of Asian-Americans in the United States. Over the years, grocery store chains have popped up to serve this population. For Chinese-Americans, that's 99 Ranch and 168 Market. Mitsuwa, Nijiya and Marukai markets, which are three separate market chains, cater to Japanese-Americans, and Galleria and Zion markets target Korean-Americans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Not every Asian enclave has access to a grocery store that's selling culturally relevant produce,\" says Tsukahira, noting that L.A.'s Historic Filipinotown is considered a food desert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are more liquor stores and fast food restaurants than grocery stores, and many community members have to take public transit for about an hour to get to a supermarket,\" Paul Nguyen, a program coordinator at API, notes of the area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And for the communities that do have access to a supermarket selling Asian greens, the issue is transparency and localism. While conventional Asian grocery stores are decent at labeling the countries from which they source, the exact suppliers are not divulged and the geographic range is international — anywhere from Mexico to China to Vietnam.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The thing is that we don't know where they're getting their produce from,\" Tsukahira says, adding, \"What we're trying to do is work with small, local farmers in California.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the years, API has worked with dozens of farms through its workshops. Additionally, it works directly with seven farms to distribute produce in the greater Los Angeles area. It's a small operation and the group also dedicates a lot of attention to fostering the Hmong farming community in Frenso County. According to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.ucanr.org/sites/Small_Farms_and_Specialty_Crop/files/88377.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">2007 survey\u003c/a>, there are roughly 1,500 small farms operated by southeast Asian farmers in Fresno County; about 900 of those are Hmong. They're part of a wave of immigrants who came to the United States in the 1980s and later because of persecution following the Vietnam War.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of them are first-generation immigrants and they're not informed about the rules and regulations and how to get into the farmers' markets,\" Nguyen says. \"We work with them to help get their story out.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Workshop topics include irrigation, food safety, bookkeeping, marketing, and organic certification.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119074\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671.jpg\" alt=\"Carrots, bok choy and cucumbers produced by Asian farmers in California that work with the Asian Pacific Islander Forward Movement. The nonprofit helps small farms grow their business through workshops, counseling and produce distribution.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119074\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Carrots, bok choy and cucumbers produced by Asian farmers in California that work with the Asian Pacific Islander Forward Movement. The nonprofit helps small farms grow their business through workshops, counseling and produce distribution. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Asian Pacific Islander Forward Movement)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The irrigation workshop, Yang noted, was one of the most helpful and generated the most interest from farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They taught us the best time to water so you don't get charged as much. And it helped me schedule my water more effectively,\" Yang says. \"The other farmers were really interested because they could finally see why the bills were so high.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aside from helping farmers with logistics, the ultimate goal for API is to create a food hub — a distribution network in Los Angeles that will provide traditional Asian produce to restaurants, schools, hospitals, community institutions and stores, so that small farmers won't have to make the cumbersome trip into the city on a weekly basis. Even as generations continue to become more Americanized, the produce is a way to maintain cultural relevancy and diversity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>API is also gearing up to start a farmer incubation program, in which the organization will purchase land, obtain all the proper certifications for organic labeling and then lease plots out to the farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the consumer end, API is offering subsidized vegetables and fruits for low-income families, and cooking and nutrition workshops at affordable housing units.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The focus, ultimately, is the Asian-American community, which makes up 14.7 percent of the metropolitan Los Angeles population. Leafy greens for sautéing, crisp daikon roots for pickling, and mustard greens for salting are an integral part of the population's cultural identity. Yang says his biggest concern isn't a lack of demand for Asian produce, but a lack of farmers to feed that demand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've gotten to a point where people are so disconnected [from] their food and their groceries. With that said, it's one of my favorite things to meet the mothers that show up for our produce,\" Yang says. \"They feed their families with recipes that they grew up with. And it's a huge benefit for them to have access to a price that they're used to.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Growing up, Youa Yang did not envision himself taking over his family's business. His parents were Hmong refugees from Laos who arrived in Fresno, Calif., in the late 1980s and settled down to become farmers. He went to college for economics and mathematics and found himself knee-deep in the finance industry immediately after graduating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, while doing volunteer work, Yang crossed paths with Kyle Tsukahira, a program manager at \u003ca href=\"http://apifm.org/\">Asian Pacific Islander Forward Movement\u003c/a> (API), a non-profit dedicated to bringing culturally relevant produce to the Asian enclaves of Los Angeles. It was API that helped Yang see that his family farm had a lot more potential to grow – and gave him the tools to do it, like counseling in marketing, how to obtain organic certifications and the latest farming policies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Yang, 29, helps his parents run Padao Farms, a 15-acre plot that specializes in traditional Asian greens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then Yang went from client to consultant. He's fluent in Hmong and he helps translate the organization's workshops for his fellow Hmong farmers in the Central Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It made me think about what I really wanted to do in life and the blessings that I had,\" he says. \"What I realized is that my parents are farming in Fresno and that they could use my talents and abilities.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yang's family farm grows a wide variety of produce catering specifically to an Asian palate. On a late spring day at the farm, one might find water spinach, with hollow stems that soak in the flavor of the garlic, and yam leaves, which are best gently sautéed with a dash of salt. There's bitter melon, which pairs well with black beans, and daikon roots, which are ideally pickled with a bit of white vinegar and sugar. The well-known bok choy is also available and is especially tasty when married to garlic, with a bit of salt and pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to farmers' markets across California, Yang's produce is distributed through \u003ca href=\"rootscsa.org\">Roots\u003c/a>, API's Los Angeles-based community-supported agriculture program, which he says has generated significant extra revenue for his farm and provided much-needed marketing assistance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119072\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a.jpg\" alt=\"A farmer checks on produce at Padao Farms, a 15-acre plot run by the Yang family in Fresno, Calif., that specializes in Asian greens.A farmer checks on produce at Padao Farms, a 15-acre plot run by the Yang family in Fresno, Calif., that specializes in Asian greens.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119072\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/pado-farms-photo-by-api_35182401212_o_enl-0d65730c1cfa50cd8313b18362ab9cfa48123e8a-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A farmer checks on produce at Padao Farms, a 15-acre plot run by the Yang family in Fresno, Calif., that specializes in Asian greens. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Asian Pacific Islander Forward Movement)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"What is most difficult about farmers' market for farmers is not only the number [of] trips that it takes, but that they're not guaranteed to sell [their produce] or make the trip worth it,\" says API's Tsukahira.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Founded in 2013, API works directly with Asian farmers like Yang across California to provide local and healthy food to the Asian and Pacific Islander population in Los Angeles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the 2010 census, the greater Los Angeles metropolitan area has the highest concentration of Asian-Americans in the United States. Over the years, grocery store chains have popped up to serve this population. For Chinese-Americans, that's 99 Ranch and 168 Market. Mitsuwa, Nijiya and Marukai markets, which are three separate market chains, cater to Japanese-Americans, and Galleria and Zion markets target Korean-Americans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Not every Asian enclave has access to a grocery store that's selling culturally relevant produce,\" says Tsukahira, noting that L.A.'s Historic Filipinotown is considered a food desert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are more liquor stores and fast food restaurants than grocery stores, and many community members have to take public transit for about an hour to get to a supermarket,\" Paul Nguyen, a program coordinator at API, notes of the area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And for the communities that do have access to a supermarket selling Asian greens, the issue is transparency and localism. While conventional Asian grocery stores are decent at labeling the countries from which they source, the exact suppliers are not divulged and the geographic range is international — anywhere from Mexico to China to Vietnam.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The thing is that we don't know where they're getting their produce from,\" Tsukahira says, adding, \"What we're trying to do is work with small, local farmers in California.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the years, API has worked with dozens of farms through its workshops. Additionally, it works directly with seven farms to distribute produce in the greater Los Angeles area. It's a small operation and the group also dedicates a lot of attention to fostering the Hmong farming community in Frenso County. According to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.ucanr.org/sites/Small_Farms_and_Specialty_Crop/files/88377.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">2007 survey\u003c/a>, there are roughly 1,500 small farms operated by southeast Asian farmers in Fresno County; about 900 of those are Hmong. They're part of a wave of immigrants who came to the United States in the 1980s and later because of persecution following the Vietnam War.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of them are first-generation immigrants and they're not informed about the rules and regulations and how to get into the farmers' markets,\" Nguyen says. \"We work with them to help get their story out.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Workshop topics include irrigation, food safety, bookkeeping, marketing, and organic certification.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119074\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671.jpg\" alt=\"Carrots, bok choy and cucumbers produced by Asian farmers in California that work with the Asian Pacific Islander Forward Movement. The nonprofit helps small farms grow their business through workshops, counseling and produce distribution.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119074\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/produce-photo-by-api_35182395152_o_custom-8f3a1518428a70337db8b762c81a107537ed5671-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Carrots, bok choy and cucumbers produced by Asian farmers in California that work with the Asian Pacific Islander Forward Movement. The nonprofit helps small farms grow their business through workshops, counseling and produce distribution. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Asian Pacific Islander Forward Movement)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The irrigation workshop, Yang noted, was one of the most helpful and generated the most interest from farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They taught us the best time to water so you don't get charged as much. And it helped me schedule my water more effectively,\" Yang says. \"The other farmers were really interested because they could finally see why the bills were so high.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aside from helping farmers with logistics, the ultimate goal for API is to create a food hub — a distribution network in Los Angeles that will provide traditional Asian produce to restaurants, schools, hospitals, community institutions and stores, so that small farmers won't have to make the cumbersome trip into the city on a weekly basis. Even as generations continue to become more Americanized, the produce is a way to maintain cultural relevancy and diversity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>API is also gearing up to start a farmer incubation program, in which the organization will purchase land, obtain all the proper certifications for organic labeling and then lease plots out to the farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the consumer end, API is offering subsidized vegetables and fruits for low-income families, and cooking and nutrition workshops at affordable housing units.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The focus, ultimately, is the Asian-American community, which makes up 14.7 percent of the metropolitan Los Angeles population. Leafy greens for sautéing, crisp daikon roots for pickling, and mustard greens for salting are an integral part of the population's cultural identity. Yang says his biggest concern isn't a lack of demand for Asian produce, but a lack of farmers to feed that demand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've gotten to a point where people are so disconnected [from] their food and their groceries. With that said, it's one of my favorite things to meet the mothers that show up for our produce,\" Yang says. \"They feed their families with recipes that they grew up with. And it's a huge benefit for them to have access to a price that they're used to.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Izakaya Rintaro in San Francisco Now Offers Teishoku (Set Meal) Lunch",
"title": "Izakaya Rintaro in San Francisco Now Offers Teishoku (Set Meal) Lunch",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Chez Panisse alum Sylvan Brackett has mastered the Japanese set meal format.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Izakaya Rintaro is widely considered among the best Japanese restaurants in the Bay Area, but until late last year served only dinner. That menu is divided into classic categories of sashimi, yakitori, fried, and “final dish,” with special sections for fresh tofu and house dish, along with dessert. There’s a lot going on in each main category’s few selections, resulting in numerous possibilities for composing a meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new lunch service (Thu-Sat, 11:30am-2pm) offers a teishoku menu, or set meal, straight-shooting and traditional, but nonetheless invigorated with an abundance of local bounty, chef Sylvan Brackett’s calling card. Brackett, who was born in Japan and grew up in the Sierra Nevada, has been a mainstay on the local Japanese food scene since opening Peko Peko, a Japanese-influenced catering company (after six years in the Chez Panisse kitchen), then launching Izakaya Rintaro in 2014.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage.jpg\" alt=\"Lunch service at Izakaya Rintaro\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118834\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lunch service at Izakaya Rintaro \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[gallery columns=\"2\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"118840,118848\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The beautiful, postcard-sized food list, printed on copies of artful menus Brackett has collected from Japan over the years, features five set meals, each served with miso soup with manila clams; southern barbarian anchovy nanbanzuke; gindara no sunomono; wasabizuke, senmaizuke and ume boshi; and chimpira gobo (descriptions to follow).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery link=\"none\" columns=\"2\" size=\"full\" ids=\"118850,118849\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are also two two a la carte add-ons, Japanese fried chicken wings and pork gyoza with chicken-foot jelly with “wings.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118844\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview.jpg\" alt=\"Hanetsuki Gyoza\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118844\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hanetsuki Gyoza \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though we knew from the start we were planning to over-order, as everything on the menu is irresistible, we began with the gyoza: local \u003ca href=\"http://www.riverdogfarm.com/\">Riverdog Farm\u003c/a> Berkshire pork with a viscous jelly made from chicken feet, wrapped in thin dumpling pastry and pan-fried. The wings described on the menu are the fried batter that connects all the gyoza in the pan and forms them into a sort of cake; but the willowy stalks of fresh chrysanthemum greens, a nice bittersweet partner for the rich gyoza filling, were also quite wing-like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery link=\"none\" columns=\"2\" size=\"full\" ids=\"118845,118842\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, after much debate, we decided on two main dishes, the sashimi no tataki mori don and the tori katsudon. I honestly felt, though, like we could’ve just closed our eyes and pointed, so impeccable was each dish we saw coming out of the open kitchen from our perch at the counter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery columns=\"2\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"118838,118859\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sashimi was an extravagantly California pleasure: big-eye tuna, kombu-cured halibut, striped bass and swordfish, all cubed and served over sushi rice with wasabi from Half Moon Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118858\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl.jpg\" alt=\"Sashimi No Tataki Mori Don\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118858\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sashimi No Tataki Mori Don \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The little dishes that come with each plate include anchovy nanbanzuke, a fried fish pickle that remains tantalizingly crisp; a generous bowl of miso soup sweetened by clams in the shell; gindara, or black cod, under a pile of tiny cucumber slices just off the mandoline; a dish of three pickles: wasabizuke (pickled wasabi), senmaizuke (pickled turnip) and ume boshi (salted plums). The wasabizuke, in particular, was a revelation, mildly spicy, but more vegetal than the raw wasabi root that typically accompanies sushi because it’s made from the stems, leaves and flowers of the plant, rather than the root. There’s also a tiny dish of chimpira gobo, picked burdock root.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118837\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app.jpg\" alt=\"Southern Barbarian Anchovy Nanbanzuke\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118837\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Southern Barbarian Anchovy Nanbanzuke \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118852\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup.jpg\" alt=\"Miso Soup with Manila Clams\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118852\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Miso Soup with Manila Clams \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118830\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod.jpg\" alt=\"Gindara No Sunomono\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118830\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gindara No Sunomono \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118856\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things.jpg\" alt=\"Wasabizuke, Senmaizuke and Ume Boshi \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118856\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wasabizuke, Senmaizuke and Ume Boshi \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118831\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root.jpg\" alt=\"Chimpira Gobo\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118831\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chimpira Gobo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The other main dish we tried, tori katsudon, involved delicately fried Riverdog Farms chicken, sliced and served over rice, with a Riverdog egg and sweet dashi (kelp and bonito stock).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118839\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix.jpg\" alt=\"Rintaro Fried Chicken Katsu Cooked with Riverdog Egg and Sweet Dashi Over Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118839\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rintaro Fried Chicken Katsu Cooked with Riverdog Egg and Sweet Dashi Over Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>An Echigo red rice ale, tartly fruity and ever so slightly hoppy, was a good pairing with all the dishes, as was a homemade soda with lemon and plums.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> [gallery columns=\"2\" size=\"full\" ids=\"118829,118833\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We had no business ordering dessert, but we persisted and thoroughly enjoyed the genmai-cha aisu, roasted rice and green tea ice cream served with little langues de chats, or cat-tongue-cookies, named for the shape, not the ingredients, sprinkled with coarse sugar resembling the roughness of a cat’s tongue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118846\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream.jpg\" alt=\" Genmai-Cha Aisu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118846\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Genmai-Cha Aisu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While nearly $100 for lunch for two might be a bit of a splurge, this is a good entry point for experiencing Brackett’s cooking, as well as the teishoku style of dining. Every dish is thoughtfully considered and prepared before your eyes with care, and the wood-framed space is especially nice in the daytime, when the sunlight is filtered through high windows over the courtyard and into the dining room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118854\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen.jpg\" alt=\"Izakaya Rintaro open kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118854\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Izakaya Rintaro open kitchen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://izakayarintaro.com/\">\u003cstrong>Izakaya Rintaro\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n82 14th St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94103 [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/GMiBTt\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 589-7022\u003cbr>\nHours: Sun, 5-10pm; Mon, 6-10pm; Tue-Wed, 6-10:30pm; Thu, 11:30am-2pm and 6-10:30pm; Fri-Sat, 11:30am-2pm and 5-11pm\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$ $19-$27 teishoku (set meal); a la carte dinner $$$-$$$$\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/izakayarintaro/\">Izakaya Rintaro\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mr_rintaro/\">mr_rintaro\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Chez Panisse alum Sylvan Brackett has mastered the Japanese set meal format.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Chez Panisse alum Sylvan Brackett has mastered the Japanese set meal format.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Izakaya Rintaro is widely considered among the best Japanese restaurants in the Bay Area, but until late last year served only dinner. That menu is divided into classic categories of sashimi, yakitori, fried, and “final dish,” with special sections for fresh tofu and house dish, along with dessert. There’s a lot going on in each main category’s few selections, resulting in numerous possibilities for composing a meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new lunch service (Thu-Sat, 11:30am-2pm) offers a teishoku menu, or set meal, straight-shooting and traditional, but nonetheless invigorated with an abundance of local bounty, chef Sylvan Brackett’s calling card. Brackett, who was born in Japan and grew up in the Sierra Nevada, has been a mainstay on the local Japanese food scene since opening Peko Peko, a Japanese-influenced catering company (after six years in the Chez Panisse kitchen), then launching Izakaya Rintaro in 2014.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage.jpg\" alt=\"Lunch service at Izakaya Rintaro\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118834\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-exterior-lunch-signage-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lunch service at Izakaya Rintaro \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The beautiful, postcard-sized food list, printed on copies of artful menus Brackett has collected from Japan over the years, features five set meals, each served with miso soup with manila clams; southern barbarian anchovy nanbanzuke; gindara no sunomono; wasabizuke, senmaizuke and ume boshi; and chimpira gobo (descriptions to follow).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are also two two a la carte add-ons, Japanese fried chicken wings and pork gyoza with chicken-foot jelly with “wings.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118844\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview.jpg\" alt=\"Hanetsuki Gyoza\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118844\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-gyoza-sideview-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hanetsuki Gyoza \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though we knew from the start we were planning to over-order, as everything on the menu is irresistible, we began with the gyoza: local \u003ca href=\"http://www.riverdogfarm.com/\">Riverdog Farm\u003c/a> Berkshire pork with a viscous jelly made from chicken feet, wrapped in thin dumpling pastry and pan-fried. The wings described on the menu are the fried batter that connects all the gyoza in the pan and forms them into a sort of cake; but the willowy stalks of fresh chrysanthemum greens, a nice bittersweet partner for the rich gyoza filling, were also quite wing-like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, after much debate, we decided on two main dishes, the sashimi no tataki mori don and the tori katsudon. I honestly felt, though, like we could’ve just closed our eyes and pointed, so impeccable was each dish we saw coming out of the open kitchen from our perch at the counter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sashimi was an extravagantly California pleasure: big-eye tuna, kombu-cured halibut, striped bass and swordfish, all cubed and served over sushi rice with wasabi from Half Moon Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118858\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl.jpg\" alt=\"Sashimi No Tataki Mori Don\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118858\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-sashimi-bowl-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sashimi No Tataki Mori Don \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The little dishes that come with each plate include anchovy nanbanzuke, a fried fish pickle that remains tantalizingly crisp; a generous bowl of miso soup sweetened by clams in the shell; gindara, or black cod, under a pile of tiny cucumber slices just off the mandoline; a dish of three pickles: wasabizuke (pickled wasabi), senmaizuke (pickled turnip) and ume boshi (salted plums). The wasabizuke, in particular, was a revelation, mildly spicy, but more vegetal than the raw wasabi root that typically accompanies sushi because it’s made from the stems, leaves and flowers of the plant, rather than the root. There’s also a tiny dish of chimpira gobo, picked burdock root.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118837\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app.jpg\" alt=\"Southern Barbarian Anchovy Nanbanzuke\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118837\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-fish-app-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Southern Barbarian Anchovy Nanbanzuke \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118852\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup.jpg\" alt=\"Miso Soup with Manila Clams\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118852\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-miso-clam-soup-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Miso Soup with Manila Clams \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118830\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod.jpg\" alt=\"Gindara No Sunomono\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118830\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-black-cod-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gindara No Sunomono \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118856\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things.jpg\" alt=\"Wasabizuke, Senmaizuke and Ume Boshi \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118856\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-picked-things-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wasabizuke, Senmaizuke and Ume Boshi \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118831\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root.jpg\" alt=\"Chimpira Gobo\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118831\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-burdock-root-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chimpira Gobo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The other main dish we tried, tori katsudon, involved delicately fried Riverdog Farms chicken, sliced and served over rice, with a Riverdog egg and sweet dashi (kelp and bonito stock).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118839\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix.jpg\" alt=\"Rintaro Fried Chicken Katsu Cooked with Riverdog Egg and Sweet Dashi Over Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118839\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-friedchix-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rintaro Fried Chicken Katsu Cooked with Riverdog Egg and Sweet Dashi Over Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>An Echigo red rice ale, tartly fruity and ever so slightly hoppy, was a good pairing with all the dishes, as was a homemade soda with lemon and plums.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We had no business ordering dessert, but we persisted and thoroughly enjoyed the genmai-cha aisu, roasted rice and green tea ice cream served with little langues de chats, or cat-tongue-cookies, named for the shape, not the ingredients, sprinkled with coarse sugar resembling the roughness of a cat’s tongue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118846\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream.jpg\" alt=\" Genmai-Cha Aisu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118846\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-ice-cream-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Genmai-Cha Aisu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While nearly $100 for lunch for two might be a bit of a splurge, this is a good entry point for experiencing Brackett’s cooking, as well as the teishoku style of dining. Every dish is thoughtfully considered and prepared before your eyes with care, and the wood-framed space is especially nice in the daytime, when the sunlight is filtered through high windows over the courtyard and into the dining room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118854\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen.jpg\" alt=\"Izakaya Rintaro open kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118854\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/izakaya-open-kitchen-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Izakaya Rintaro open kitchen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://izakayarintaro.com/\">\u003cstrong>Izakaya Rintaro\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n82 14th St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94103 [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/GMiBTt\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 589-7022\u003cbr>\nHours: Sun, 5-10pm; Mon, 6-10pm; Tue-Wed, 6-10:30pm; Thu, 11:30am-2pm and 6-10:30pm; Fri-Sat, 11:30am-2pm and 5-11pm\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$ $19-$27 teishoku (set meal); a la carte dinner $$$-$$$$\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/izakayarintaro/\">Izakaya Rintaro\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mr_rintaro/\">mr_rintaro\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>In most American cities these days, it seems like there's a Chinese restaurant on every other street corner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in the late 1800s, that ubiquity was exactly what certain white establishment figures feared,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>according to a \u003ca href=\"https://papers.ssrn.com/sol3/papers.cfm?abstract_id=2948030\">new study\u003c/a> co-written by Gabriel \"Jack\" Chin, a law professor at the University of California, Davis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chin examined how white union workers and lawmakers waged a nationwide \"war\" on Chinese restaurants in America from 1890 to 1920. \"It shows this tradition of an expectation on the part of some white Americans that public policy should be organized for the benefit of their employment,\" says Chin, who adds that he sees parallels with anti-immigrant policies being put forth today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1882, Congress passed the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/codeswitch/2017/05/05/527091890/the-135-year-bridge-between-the-chinese-exclusion-act-and-a-proposed-travel-ban\">Chinese Exclusion Act\u003c/a>, which barred Chinese immigrants from entering the U.S. for decades. Some white Americans worried that Chinese laborers would steal their jobs and hijack their opportunity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And this xenophobic fear carried over to the restaurant industry. Chinese restaurants — known by some at the time as \"chop suey houses\" — were understood to be a good value, offering inexpensive meals in an exotic setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The economic menace [of Chinese restaurants] was twofold,\" says Chin. \"First, if Chinese people had the opportunity to earn a living, then they might stay. And their communities would continue to exist, and the Chinese presence, which many objected to, would continue.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The second thing, says Chin, is that \"if Chinese restaurants made Chinese food available at a relatively low price and then American restaurants wouldn't be able to compete, either the wage scales for American restaurants would have to go down or they would close.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then, there was the pervasive idea that Chinese men were lecherous threats to white women. Chinese restaurants were considered \"dens of vice,\" Chin says, where white women were at risk of moral corruption by way of sex, opium and alcohol.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I talked with Chin about his research and how anti-immigrant sentiment can manifest itself in even the most \"creative\" of methods. He told me about six different ways that Chinese restaurants were targeted:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>1. Race riots\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>There were Chinese communities expelled from Western and Mountain States through race riots, Chin says, where Chinese restaurateurs or miners were beaten or quite literally burned from their homes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>2. Boycotts \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unions representing cooks, waiters and bartenders organized largely unsuccessful boycotts against Chinese restaurants in many places, including Massachusetts, Arizona, California, Montana, Minnesota and Ohio. The unions imposed fines on union members who ate at Chinese restaurants, Chin says, but couldn't keep their members from eating there: \"Individual members of the public had incentives to cheat because the food was understood to be a good value at the time.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, Chin points out, for the most part, these unions weren't trying to enlist Chinese restaurant workers to join their ranks. Instead, they were vying for Chinese employees to be replaced by white workers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>3. A peculiar law\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When boycotts were largely unsuccessful, the unions turned to the legal system. At the American Federation of Labor's 1913 convention, organizers proposed that all states should pass laws that barred white women from working or patronizing Chinese or Japanese restaurants for both moral and economic reasons, Chin says. (A similar law had been enacted in Saskatchewan, Canada, and upheld by Canada's Supreme Court.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>States including Montana, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, Washington and Oregon saw versions of the bill, which were ultimately unsuccessful. In Massachusetts, for example, the state Supreme Judicial Court struck down the law on the grounds that it was discriminatory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>4. Government agencies and licenses \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chin points to old newspaper reports that show that government agencies refused to issue business or restaurant licenses to Chinese restaurateurs, citing various reasons: Some officials claimed they had already issued enough licenses. Others said they would not issue licenses to people who were not citizens. And since Chinese people couldn't naturalize, this targeted them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>5. Policing \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the proposed white women's labor law was never officially enacted, some police officers began patrolling the restaurants of their own volition, Chin says. \"We see newspaper reports,\" he explains, \"where the police in the first decades of the 20th century believed they had the authority, and exercised it, simply to issue orders in the public interest.\" For example, he adds, \"when there were concerns about white women patronizing Chinese restaurants and when the police thought this was prejudicial to the safety of white women, they would simply order white women out.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1909, the murder of a \u003ca href=\"https://tenement.org/blog/where-miss-sigel-met-her-slayer/\">prominent white union leader's daughter by a Chinese restaurant worker\u003c/a> inflamed tensions. In June of that year, Leon Ling reportedly strangled Elsie Sigel in a jealous rage and stuffed her body into a trunk in his bedroom. Sigel had met Ling when she worked in Manhattan's Chinatown as a missionary, and her death and the subsequent manhunt for her killer sparked a wave of racial profiling across the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Newspapers hyped the story, with headlines like \"Was Strangled By Her Chinese Lover: Granddaughter of General Sigel Slain in the Slums of New York.\" The case seemed to justify the fears that union workers had of all the misfortunes that would spring from Chinese restaurants. \"To be a Chinaman these days,\" one Connecticut newspaper wrote, \"is to be at least a suspect in the murder of Elsie Sigel.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>6. Banning private booths \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Private booths were little rooms where customers could dine; they were often found in Chinese restaurants. But in 1917, the United States Public Health Service published a model ordinance that prohibited private booths, Chin says. Some people campaigned to get rid of them, \"because in chop suey restaurants and other restaurants, nefarious things could happen behind the curtain.\" This was a way to specifically target Chinese restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Chinese restaurants were able to weather these affronts from the unions — Chinese \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/02/22/467113401/lo-mein-loophole-how-u-s-immigration-law-fueled-a-chinese-restaurant-boom\" target=\"_blank\">restaurants even surged \u003c/a>in New York City during this time because of a loophole that allowed small-business owners visas into the U.S. — Chin argues that enough damage had been done. The anti-Chinese viewpoints of white labor unionists helped solidify the notion that Chinese people were both economic and moral threats to white Americans and paved the way for the passage of the Immigration Acts of 1917 and 1924, which more broadly restricted the immigration of people from all Asian countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't until there was a dramatic drop in Chinese immigrants in the U.S. that union organizers began to ease up on their targeting of Chinese restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The issue wasn't Chinese restaurants per se,\" Chin says. \"It was: What if Chinese restaurants grow and grow and drive out American restaurants — then what?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In most American cities these days, it seems like there's a Chinese restaurant on every other street corner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in the late 1800s, that ubiquity was exactly what certain white establishment figures feared,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>according to a \u003ca href=\"https://papers.ssrn.com/sol3/papers.cfm?abstract_id=2948030\">new study\u003c/a> co-written by Gabriel \"Jack\" Chin, a law professor at the University of California, Davis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chin examined how white union workers and lawmakers waged a nationwide \"war\" on Chinese restaurants in America from 1890 to 1920. \"It shows this tradition of an expectation on the part of some white Americans that public policy should be organized for the benefit of their employment,\" says Chin, who adds that he sees parallels with anti-immigrant policies being put forth today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1882, Congress passed the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/codeswitch/2017/05/05/527091890/the-135-year-bridge-between-the-chinese-exclusion-act-and-a-proposed-travel-ban\">Chinese Exclusion Act\u003c/a>, which barred Chinese immigrants from entering the U.S. for decades. Some white Americans worried that Chinese laborers would steal their jobs and hijack their opportunity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And this xenophobic fear carried over to the restaurant industry. Chinese restaurants — known by some at the time as \"chop suey houses\" — were understood to be a good value, offering inexpensive meals in an exotic setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The economic menace [of Chinese restaurants] was twofold,\" says Chin. \"First, if Chinese people had the opportunity to earn a living, then they might stay. And their communities would continue to exist, and the Chinese presence, which many objected to, would continue.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The second thing, says Chin, is that \"if Chinese restaurants made Chinese food available at a relatively low price and then American restaurants wouldn't be able to compete, either the wage scales for American restaurants would have to go down or they would close.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then, there was the pervasive idea that Chinese men were lecherous threats to white women. Chinese restaurants were considered \"dens of vice,\" Chin says, where white women were at risk of moral corruption by way of sex, opium and alcohol.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I talked with Chin about his research and how anti-immigrant sentiment can manifest itself in even the most \"creative\" of methods. He told me about six different ways that Chinese restaurants were targeted:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>1. Race riots\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>There were Chinese communities expelled from Western and Mountain States through race riots, Chin says, where Chinese restaurateurs or miners were beaten or quite literally burned from their homes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>2. Boycotts \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unions representing cooks, waiters and bartenders organized largely unsuccessful boycotts against Chinese restaurants in many places, including Massachusetts, Arizona, California, Montana, Minnesota and Ohio. The unions imposed fines on union members who ate at Chinese restaurants, Chin says, but couldn't keep their members from eating there: \"Individual members of the public had incentives to cheat because the food was understood to be a good value at the time.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, Chin points out, for the most part, these unions weren't trying to enlist Chinese restaurant workers to join their ranks. Instead, they were vying for Chinese employees to be replaced by white workers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>3. A peculiar law\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When boycotts were largely unsuccessful, the unions turned to the legal system. At the American Federation of Labor's 1913 convention, organizers proposed that all states should pass laws that barred white women from working or patronizing Chinese or Japanese restaurants for both moral and economic reasons, Chin says. (A similar law had been enacted in Saskatchewan, Canada, and upheld by Canada's Supreme Court.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>States including Montana, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, Washington and Oregon saw versions of the bill, which were ultimately unsuccessful. In Massachusetts, for example, the state Supreme Judicial Court struck down the law on the grounds that it was discriminatory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>4. Government agencies and licenses \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chin points to old newspaper reports that show that government agencies refused to issue business or restaurant licenses to Chinese restaurateurs, citing various reasons: Some officials claimed they had already issued enough licenses. Others said they would not issue licenses to people who were not citizens. And since Chinese people couldn't naturalize, this targeted them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>5. Policing \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the proposed white women's labor law was never officially enacted, some police officers began patrolling the restaurants of their own volition, Chin says. \"We see newspaper reports,\" he explains, \"where the police in the first decades of the 20th century believed they had the authority, and exercised it, simply to issue orders in the public interest.\" For example, he adds, \"when there were concerns about white women patronizing Chinese restaurants and when the police thought this was prejudicial to the safety of white women, they would simply order white women out.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1909, the murder of a \u003ca href=\"https://tenement.org/blog/where-miss-sigel-met-her-slayer/\">prominent white union leader's daughter by a Chinese restaurant worker\u003c/a> inflamed tensions. In June of that year, Leon Ling reportedly strangled Elsie Sigel in a jealous rage and stuffed her body into a trunk in his bedroom. Sigel had met Ling when she worked in Manhattan's Chinatown as a missionary, and her death and the subsequent manhunt for her killer sparked a wave of racial profiling across the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Newspapers hyped the story, with headlines like \"Was Strangled By Her Chinese Lover: Granddaughter of General Sigel Slain in the Slums of New York.\" The case seemed to justify the fears that union workers had of all the misfortunes that would spring from Chinese restaurants. \"To be a Chinaman these days,\" one Connecticut newspaper wrote, \"is to be at least a suspect in the murder of Elsie Sigel.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>6. Banning private booths \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Private booths were little rooms where customers could dine; they were often found in Chinese restaurants. But in 1917, the United States Public Health Service published a model ordinance that prohibited private booths, Chin says. Some people campaigned to get rid of them, \"because in chop suey restaurants and other restaurants, nefarious things could happen behind the curtain.\" This was a way to specifically target Chinese restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Chinese restaurants were able to weather these affronts from the unions — Chinese \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/02/22/467113401/lo-mein-loophole-how-u-s-immigration-law-fueled-a-chinese-restaurant-boom\" target=\"_blank\">restaurants even surged \u003c/a>in New York City during this time because of a loophole that allowed small-business owners visas into the U.S. — Chin argues that enough damage had been done. The anti-Chinese viewpoints of white labor unionists helped solidify the notion that Chinese people were both economic and moral threats to white Americans and paved the way for the passage of the Immigration Acts of 1917 and 1924, which more broadly restricted the immigration of people from all Asian countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't until there was a dramatic drop in Chinese immigrants in the U.S. that union organizers began to ease up on their targeting of Chinese restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The issue wasn't Chinese restaurants per se,\" Chin says. \"It was: What if Chinese restaurants grow and grow and drive out American restaurants — then what?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Bay Area Bites Guide to Ice Cream in Berkeley, Emeryville and Oakland",
"title": "The Bay Area Bites Guide to Ice Cream in Berkeley, Emeryville and Oakland",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp> [aside postID='bayareabites_96566,news_10710678' label='Read More on Ice Cream']\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>This article was updated on June 11, 2019.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the Bay Area finally starts to warm up, it’s time to shift our diets to seasonally appropriate fare like tomatoes, corn and--of course--ice cream. Here’s our guide to ice cream options in Berkeley, Oakland and Emeryville, highlighting four relatively new places that offer exciting, non-traditional ice cream options. Not interested in branching out from the classics? We’ve also included a list of other nearby ice cream spot, so you can pick one that matches your preferences (plus, don’t miss \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/13/5-bites-get-the-scoop-on-east-bay-ice-cream/\" target=\"_blank\">our old list\u003c/a> for other East Bay shops). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’ve tried to be as comprehensive as we can, but if we missed your favorite spot, let us know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118142\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-118142 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate lemongrass and Thai tea gelato from Secret Sccop in Berkeley.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate lemongrass and Thai tea gelato from Secret Scoop in Berkeley. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I'm a sucker for a handwritten sign. If there’s a handwritten sign--whether for a book, wine or dog at an animal shelter--I am 95% more likely to purchase the item in question. While the signs at \u003cstrong>Secret Scoop\u003c/strong>, which Funn Fisher opened earlier this year in Berkeley, aren’t handwritten, they have the same earnest, convincing tone as they gently guide you through your visit. Their iced tea? “Not too sweet.” Their salted tamarind sorbet? “Very South East Asian!” Time to pay? “We prefer credit card :)” Their specialty is ice cream with a scoop of sticky rice, which adds a chewy textural contrast to their innovative flavors. I couldn’t resist trying chocolate lemongrass, whose modest, straightforward sign informed me that “We have created this.” The herbaceous flavor was unusual yet compelling, while a scoop of Thai iced tea gelato featured the eponymous drink’s combination of creaminess and bitterness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.secretscoopgelato.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Secret Scoop Thai Gelato\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1922 M.L.K. Jr Way Suite B [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/dCMLLdRF26r\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nBerkeley, CA 94704\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 939-2832\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Thur, 1-9:30pm; Fri-Sun, 12-9:30pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook:\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/SecretScoop/\" target=\"_blank\"> Secret Scoop (Thai Gelato) - Gelato Shop\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/SecretScoopSF?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\">@SecretScoopSF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/secretscoopgelato/\" target=\"_blank\">@secretscoopgelato\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nYelp: \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/secret-scoop-thai-gelato-berkeley\" target=\"_blank\">Secret Scoop Thai Gelato\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $ (Entrees $10 and under)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118139\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-118139\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted cashew and mocha chip ice cream from Mr. Dewie's Cashew Creamery in Emeryville.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted cashew and mocha chip ice cream from Mr. Dewie's Cashew Creamery in Emeryville. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Every weekday around noon, Emeryville’s Public Market is flooded with crowds of hungry office workers, their key cards swinging from lanyards as they choose between ramen, sushi or sandwiches. Now, those hordes have a new option for dessert. \u003cstrong>Mr. Dewie's Cashew Creamery\u003c/strong>, from owners Ari and Andrew Cohen, opened its second location there in March, with a cheery staff serving up their cashew-based ice cream from a zhooshed-up shipping container. A sign informs you that it’s dairy-free, additive-free, vegan, gluten-free, soy-free and organic, but lest that scare you off, let me reassure you that this ice cream isn’t just good for vegans, it’s good, period. It’s full-bodied and rich, with none of the watery grittiness of other dairy-free ice creams. Their roasted cashew flavor had a deep, sweet flavor from the roasted nuts, while their mocha chip was creamy and decadent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.mrdewies.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Mr. Dewie’s Cashew Creamery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (Flagship store is \u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/CnhcRSseuLB2\" target=\"_blank\">in Albany\u003c/a>)\u003cbr>\n5959 Shellmound St. [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/ksVuiKCbDqB2\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nEmeryville, CA 94608\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 350-8171\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat, 11am-9pm; Sun, 11am-8pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/MrDewies\" target=\"_blank\">Mr. Dewie's Cashew Creamery & Frozen Desserts\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/mrdewies?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\">@MrDewies\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mrdewies/\" target=\"_blank\">@mrdewies\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nYelp: \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/mr-dewies-cashew-creamery-emeryville-5\" target=\"_blank\">Mr. Dewie’s Cashew Creamery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $ (Entrees $10 and under)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118169\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal.jpg\" alt=\"The Sweet Deal, with soft serve, caramel and a donut, from Sweet Belly in Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118169\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Sweet Deal, with soft serve, caramel and a donut, from Sweet Belly in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oakland’s Belly, known for their elaborate tacos, manages to pull off the skillful feat of fusion food that actually tastes good. Last fall, Belly’s owners Alice Woo and Alan Chun wanted a new challenge, opening a tiny dessert-only outpost a few blocks away in Oakland’s Uptown. \u003cstrong>Sweet Belly\u003c/strong> features an attractive, Instagram-ready interior, with a dainty mobile, fairy lights curled around succulents, and gleaming subway tile. You can get coffee, donuts, cookies (including ones decorated with Warriors jerseys), or ice cream. Or you can get them all in the same cup. Their Sweet Deal combines soft serve, a topping from a sprawling list, one of their tiny, made-to-order doughnuts, and your choice of sauce. My towering creation--a mix of almond and coffee soft serve, a lacquered pretzel streusel, honey butter caramel and a sugar donut speared on a straw--was deliciously over-the-top, an ideal mix of salt, crunch and sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sweetbellydesserts.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Sweet Belly\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>[CLOSED]\u003cbr>\n435 19th St. [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/Pd8sZ5Lw2ym\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94612\u003cbr>\nPh: (510)839-7295\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat, 12-9pm; Closed Sun\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/sweetbelly510/\" target=\"_blank\">Sweet Belly\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/sweetbelly510\" target=\"_blank\">@sweetbelly510\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/Sweetbellyoakland/\" target=\"_blank\">@sweetbellyoakland\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nYelp: \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/sweet-belly-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">Sweet Belly Oakland\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $ (Entrees $10 and under)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118170\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point.jpg\" alt=\"A matcha ice cream roll from Oakland's Freezing Point.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118170\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A matcha ice cream roll from Oakland's Freezing Point. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Happiness comes in rolls,” reads the signage for \u003cstrong>Freezing Point Creamery\u003c/strong>, a new store in Oakland’s Chinatown. Freezing Point offers Thai-style rolled ice cream, along with a selection of traditional ice cream (including durian ice cream, should that be your craving) and drinks (it’s probably the only ice cream shop where you can also get a celery and beet “Detox Juice.”) It’s not your typical ice cream experience, but an elaborate ice cream Event: it takes at least five minutes to craft, and requires tools and a physicality usually reserved for spackling your bathroom. Once you’ve chosen your flavor, the liquid custard is poured onto a cold, rotating disc. One of the buff-forearmed workers will then scrape and chops the mixture as it freezes, until it starts to solidify, at which point it’s spread into a thin rectangle. The ice cream is carefully scraped into rolls, and then transferred to a cup. It’s both a visual experience (maybe you’ve seen ther mesmerizing videos \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/explore/locations/1591564031145676/freezing-point/\" target=\"_blank\">on Instagram\u003c/a>) and a popular one. On the weekday afternoon I visited, there was a long line, including a woman explaining the concept to her befuddled boyfriend and a gaggle of teenagers sporting matching tutus and “Oakland versus the world” shirts, huddling by the sneeze guard as they recorded the process with their phones. It’s different from your average ice cream, dense and chewy, but the matcha version I tried, topped with mochi and red bean, melted immediately into a pleasing texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/freezing-point-creamery-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Freezing Point Creamery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n349 7th St. [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/3A2j9qttEmw\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94607\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 879-6998\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sun, 12-9:45pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/freezingpointcreamery/\" target=\"_blank\">Freezing Point\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/explore/locations/1591564031145676/freezing-point/\" target=\"_blank\">Freezing Point\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nYelp: \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/freezing-point-creamery-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">Freezing Point Creamery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $ (Entrees $10 and under)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Still want more ice cream? Here’s our list of ice cream options in Berkeley, Emeryville and Oakland:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tarasorganic.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Tara's Organic Ice Cream\u003c/a>: This East Bay stalwart, with two locations, serves organic ice cream in flavors like rooibos tea, lucuma, and strawberry rose.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.curbsideoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Curbside Creamery\u003c/a>: This Temescal shop features a streamlined menu of ice cream and soft serve, and always offers at least one vegan flavor.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ici-icecream.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Ici\u003c/a>: One of the East Bay’s first gourmet ice cream places, this Elmwood shop offers innovative flavors in an elegant atmosphere.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fentonscreamery.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Fentons\u003c/a>: Bring your your loved ones to this iconic East Bay shop, where they serve a wide variety of flavors and awe-inspiring sundaes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://threetwinsicecream.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Three Twins\u003c/a>: The Petaluma-based brand recently opened a Fourth Street outpost, where they serve up their organic ice cream in flavors like cardamom and sea salt caramel.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/johns-ice-cream-berkeley\" target=\"_blank\">John's Ice Cream\u003c/a>: As Bay Area rents continue to climb, drown your sorrows at John’s in downtown Berkeley, where a scoop is a mere $1.50.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fostersfreeze.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Foster's Freeze\u003c/a>: It’s not healthy or organic, but on a hot day, it’s almost impossible to resist Fosters’ combination of cheery service, vintage Americana aesthetic and lofty dipped cones.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.smittenicecream.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Smitten Ice Cream\u003c/a>: If you’re the kind of person who likes to see how things are made, don’t miss Smitten, where they use liquid nitrogen to make ice cream in front of your eyes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.littlegianticecream.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Little Giant Ice Cream\u003c/a>: This Uptown Oakland spot offers intriguing flavors like goat cheese and Mexican Rocky Road as well as classics like chocolate and vanilla.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.benjerry.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Ben and Jerry’s\u003c/a>: The East Bay has a few locations to get ice cream from everyone’s favorite Vermont hippies, but the Jack London Square shop boasts a charming waterfront view.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://creamnation.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Cream\u003c/a>: While Cream now boasts locations in four states, they got their start on Telegraph Ave. in Berkeley--but you don’t have to be a starving student to appreciate the combination of warm cookies and tasty ice cream.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.baskinrobbins.com/content/baskinrobbins/en.html\" target=\"_blank\">Baskin-Robbins\u003c/a>: The world’s largest ice cream chain (!) offers several locations in the East Bay to get flavors both elaborate (Premium Churned Reduced-Fat, No Sugar Added Caramel Turtle Truffle) and simple (Rainbow Sherbet)--and yes, they still give you a free scoop \u003ca href=\"https://www.baskinrobbins.com/content/baskinrobbins/en/faqs.html#bdayclubanswer1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">on your birthday\u003c/a>.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cookiebarcreamery.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Cookiebar\u003c/a>: Mix and match ice cream flavors like Fruity Pebbles or ube with cookies like snickerdoodles or white chocolate cranberry for your ideal ice cream sandwich.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/icey-cream-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">Icey Cream\u003c/a>: Stop by this small pink shop for a ice cream cone before walking across the street to Lake Merritt for an ideal Oakland summer afternoon. If you’re willing to risk the sugar coma, they also serve donut ice cream sandwiches.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://flavorbrigade.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Flavor Brigade\u003c/a>: Sure, they offer ice cream, but the real reason to visit is their Philly-style \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/07/31/better-than-ice-cream-frozen-custard-comes-to-the-bay-area/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">frozen custards\u003c/a> and ices.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.dreyers.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Dreyer's\u003c/a>: Yes, it’s a chain, but they started in Oakland, and they get points for nostalgia since it’s probably what you grew up eating. Plus, they allegedly invented Rocky Road--\u003ca href=\"http://mentalfloss.com/article/82388/conflicting-stories-behind-invention-rocky-road-ice-cream\" target=\"_blank\">or was that Fenton’s\u003c/a>?\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/nieves-cinco-de-mayo-oakland-2\" target=\"_blank\">Nieves Cinco De Mayo\u003c/a>: This beloved Fruitvale establishment offers ice cream in flavors like cinnamon, corn and chongos (curdled milk), but don’t miss their mango chili mangonada.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.loards.com/index.htm\" target=\"_blank\">Loard's\u003c/a>: Huge, affordable scoops of seasonal flavors from a East Bay institution. What more could you ask for?\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>This article was updated on June 11, 2019.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the Bay Area finally starts to warm up, it’s time to shift our diets to seasonally appropriate fare like tomatoes, corn and--of course--ice cream. Here’s our guide to ice cream options in Berkeley, Oakland and Emeryville, highlighting four relatively new places that offer exciting, non-traditional ice cream options. Not interested in branching out from the classics? We’ve also included a list of other nearby ice cream spot, so you can pick one that matches your preferences (plus, don’t miss \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/13/5-bites-get-the-scoop-on-east-bay-ice-cream/\" target=\"_blank\">our old list\u003c/a> for other East Bay shops). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’ve tried to be as comprehensive as we can, but if we missed your favorite spot, let us know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118142\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-118142 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate lemongrass and Thai tea gelato from Secret Sccop in Berkeley.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/IMG_3909-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate lemongrass and Thai tea gelato from Secret Scoop in Berkeley. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I'm a sucker for a handwritten sign. If there’s a handwritten sign--whether for a book, wine or dog at an animal shelter--I am 95% more likely to purchase the item in question. While the signs at \u003cstrong>Secret Scoop\u003c/strong>, which Funn Fisher opened earlier this year in Berkeley, aren’t handwritten, they have the same earnest, convincing tone as they gently guide you through your visit. Their iced tea? “Not too sweet.” Their salted tamarind sorbet? “Very South East Asian!” Time to pay? “We prefer credit card :)” Their specialty is ice cream with a scoop of sticky rice, which adds a chewy textural contrast to their innovative flavors. I couldn’t resist trying chocolate lemongrass, whose modest, straightforward sign informed me that “We have created this.” The herbaceous flavor was unusual yet compelling, while a scoop of Thai iced tea gelato featured the eponymous drink’s combination of creaminess and bitterness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.secretscoopgelato.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Secret Scoop Thai Gelato\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1922 M.L.K. Jr Way Suite B [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/dCMLLdRF26r\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nBerkeley, CA 94704\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 939-2832\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Thur, 1-9:30pm; Fri-Sun, 12-9:30pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook:\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/SecretScoop/\" target=\"_blank\"> Secret Scoop (Thai Gelato) - Gelato Shop\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/SecretScoopSF?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\">@SecretScoopSF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/secretscoopgelato/\" target=\"_blank\">@secretscoopgelato\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nYelp: \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/secret-scoop-thai-gelato-berkeley\" target=\"_blank\">Secret Scoop Thai Gelato\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $ (Entrees $10 and under)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118139\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-118139\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted cashew and mocha chip ice cream from Mr. Dewie's Cashew Creamery in Emeryville.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/edited-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted cashew and mocha chip ice cream from Mr. Dewie's Cashew Creamery in Emeryville. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Every weekday around noon, Emeryville’s Public Market is flooded with crowds of hungry office workers, their key cards swinging from lanyards as they choose between ramen, sushi or sandwiches. Now, those hordes have a new option for dessert. \u003cstrong>Mr. Dewie's Cashew Creamery\u003c/strong>, from owners Ari and Andrew Cohen, opened its second location there in March, with a cheery staff serving up their cashew-based ice cream from a zhooshed-up shipping container. A sign informs you that it’s dairy-free, additive-free, vegan, gluten-free, soy-free and organic, but lest that scare you off, let me reassure you that this ice cream isn’t just good for vegans, it’s good, period. It’s full-bodied and rich, with none of the watery grittiness of other dairy-free ice creams. Their roasted cashew flavor had a deep, sweet flavor from the roasted nuts, while their mocha chip was creamy and decadent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.mrdewies.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Mr. Dewie’s Cashew Creamery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (Flagship store is \u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/CnhcRSseuLB2\" target=\"_blank\">in Albany\u003c/a>)\u003cbr>\n5959 Shellmound St. [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/ksVuiKCbDqB2\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nEmeryville, CA 94608\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 350-8171\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat, 11am-9pm; Sun, 11am-8pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/MrDewies\" target=\"_blank\">Mr. Dewie's Cashew Creamery & Frozen Desserts\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/mrdewies?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\">@MrDewies\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mrdewies/\" target=\"_blank\">@mrdewies\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nYelp: \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/mr-dewies-cashew-creamery-emeryville-5\" target=\"_blank\">Mr. Dewie’s Cashew Creamery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $ (Entrees $10 and under)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118169\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal.jpg\" alt=\"The Sweet Deal, with soft serve, caramel and a donut, from Sweet Belly in Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118169\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/sweet-deal-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Sweet Deal, with soft serve, caramel and a donut, from Sweet Belly in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oakland’s Belly, known for their elaborate tacos, manages to pull off the skillful feat of fusion food that actually tastes good. Last fall, Belly’s owners Alice Woo and Alan Chun wanted a new challenge, opening a tiny dessert-only outpost a few blocks away in Oakland’s Uptown. \u003cstrong>Sweet Belly\u003c/strong> features an attractive, Instagram-ready interior, with a dainty mobile, fairy lights curled around succulents, and gleaming subway tile. You can get coffee, donuts, cookies (including ones decorated with Warriors jerseys), or ice cream. Or you can get them all in the same cup. Their Sweet Deal combines soft serve, a topping from a sprawling list, one of their tiny, made-to-order doughnuts, and your choice of sauce. My towering creation--a mix of almond and coffee soft serve, a lacquered pretzel streusel, honey butter caramel and a sugar donut speared on a straw--was deliciously over-the-top, an ideal mix of salt, crunch and sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sweetbellydesserts.com/\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Sweet Belly\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>[CLOSED]\u003cbr>\n435 19th St. [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/Pd8sZ5Lw2ym\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94612\u003cbr>\nPh: (510)839-7295\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat, 12-9pm; Closed Sun\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/sweetbelly510/\" target=\"_blank\">Sweet Belly\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/sweetbelly510\" target=\"_blank\">@sweetbelly510\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/Sweetbellyoakland/\" target=\"_blank\">@sweetbellyoakland\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nYelp: \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/sweet-belly-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">Sweet Belly Oakland\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $ (Entrees $10 and under)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118170\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point.jpg\" alt=\"A matcha ice cream roll from Oakland's Freezing Point.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118170\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/freezing-point-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A matcha ice cream roll from Oakland's Freezing Point. \u003ccite>(Shelby Pope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Happiness comes in rolls,” reads the signage for \u003cstrong>Freezing Point Creamery\u003c/strong>, a new store in Oakland’s Chinatown. Freezing Point offers Thai-style rolled ice cream, along with a selection of traditional ice cream (including durian ice cream, should that be your craving) and drinks (it’s probably the only ice cream shop where you can also get a celery and beet “Detox Juice.”) It’s not your typical ice cream experience, but an elaborate ice cream Event: it takes at least five minutes to craft, and requires tools and a physicality usually reserved for spackling your bathroom. Once you’ve chosen your flavor, the liquid custard is poured onto a cold, rotating disc. One of the buff-forearmed workers will then scrape and chops the mixture as it freezes, until it starts to solidify, at which point it’s spread into a thin rectangle. The ice cream is carefully scraped into rolls, and then transferred to a cup. It’s both a visual experience (maybe you’ve seen ther mesmerizing videos \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/explore/locations/1591564031145676/freezing-point/\" target=\"_blank\">on Instagram\u003c/a>) and a popular one. On the weekday afternoon I visited, there was a long line, including a woman explaining the concept to her befuddled boyfriend and a gaggle of teenagers sporting matching tutus and “Oakland versus the world” shirts, huddling by the sneeze guard as they recorded the process with their phones. It’s different from your average ice cream, dense and chewy, but the matcha version I tried, topped with mochi and red bean, melted immediately into a pleasing texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/freezing-point-creamery-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Freezing Point Creamery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n349 7th St. [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/3A2j9qttEmw\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94607\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 879-6998\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sun, 12-9:45pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/freezingpointcreamery/\" target=\"_blank\">Freezing Point\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/explore/locations/1591564031145676/freezing-point/\" target=\"_blank\">Freezing Point\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nYelp: \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/freezing-point-creamery-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">Freezing Point Creamery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $ (Entrees $10 and under)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Still want more ice cream? Here’s our list of ice cream options in Berkeley, Emeryville and Oakland:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tarasorganic.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Tara's Organic Ice Cream\u003c/a>: This East Bay stalwart, with two locations, serves organic ice cream in flavors like rooibos tea, lucuma, and strawberry rose.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.curbsideoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Curbside Creamery\u003c/a>: This Temescal shop features a streamlined menu of ice cream and soft serve, and always offers at least one vegan flavor.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ici-icecream.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Ici\u003c/a>: One of the East Bay’s first gourmet ice cream places, this Elmwood shop offers innovative flavors in an elegant atmosphere.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fentonscreamery.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Fentons\u003c/a>: Bring your your loved ones to this iconic East Bay shop, where they serve a wide variety of flavors and awe-inspiring sundaes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://threetwinsicecream.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Three Twins\u003c/a>: The Petaluma-based brand recently opened a Fourth Street outpost, where they serve up their organic ice cream in flavors like cardamom and sea salt caramel.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/johns-ice-cream-berkeley\" target=\"_blank\">John's Ice Cream\u003c/a>: As Bay Area rents continue to climb, drown your sorrows at John’s in downtown Berkeley, where a scoop is a mere $1.50.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fostersfreeze.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Foster's Freeze\u003c/a>: It’s not healthy or organic, but on a hot day, it’s almost impossible to resist Fosters’ combination of cheery service, vintage Americana aesthetic and lofty dipped cones.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.smittenicecream.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Smitten Ice Cream\u003c/a>: If you’re the kind of person who likes to see how things are made, don’t miss Smitten, where they use liquid nitrogen to make ice cream in front of your eyes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.littlegianticecream.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Little Giant Ice Cream\u003c/a>: This Uptown Oakland spot offers intriguing flavors like goat cheese and Mexican Rocky Road as well as classics like chocolate and vanilla.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.benjerry.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Ben and Jerry’s\u003c/a>: The East Bay has a few locations to get ice cream from everyone’s favorite Vermont hippies, but the Jack London Square shop boasts a charming waterfront view.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://creamnation.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Cream\u003c/a>: While Cream now boasts locations in four states, they got their start on Telegraph Ave. in Berkeley--but you don’t have to be a starving student to appreciate the combination of warm cookies and tasty ice cream.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.baskinrobbins.com/content/baskinrobbins/en.html\" target=\"_blank\">Baskin-Robbins\u003c/a>: The world’s largest ice cream chain (!) offers several locations in the East Bay to get flavors both elaborate (Premium Churned Reduced-Fat, No Sugar Added Caramel Turtle Truffle) and simple (Rainbow Sherbet)--and yes, they still give you a free scoop \u003ca href=\"https://www.baskinrobbins.com/content/baskinrobbins/en/faqs.html#bdayclubanswer1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">on your birthday\u003c/a>.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cookiebarcreamery.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Cookiebar\u003c/a>: Mix and match ice cream flavors like Fruity Pebbles or ube with cookies like snickerdoodles or white chocolate cranberry for your ideal ice cream sandwich.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/icey-cream-oakland\" target=\"_blank\">Icey Cream\u003c/a>: Stop by this small pink shop for a ice cream cone before walking across the street to Lake Merritt for an ideal Oakland summer afternoon. If you’re willing to risk the sugar coma, they also serve donut ice cream sandwiches.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://flavorbrigade.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Flavor Brigade\u003c/a>: Sure, they offer ice cream, but the real reason to visit is their Philly-style \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/07/31/better-than-ice-cream-frozen-custard-comes-to-the-bay-area/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">frozen custards\u003c/a> and ices.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.dreyers.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Dreyer's\u003c/a>: Yes, it’s a chain, but they started in Oakland, and they get points for nostalgia since it’s probably what you grew up eating. Plus, they allegedly invented Rocky Road--\u003ca href=\"http://mentalfloss.com/article/82388/conflicting-stories-behind-invention-rocky-road-ice-cream\" target=\"_blank\">or was that Fenton’s\u003c/a>?\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/nieves-cinco-de-mayo-oakland-2\" target=\"_blank\">Nieves Cinco De Mayo\u003c/a>: This beloved Fruitvale establishment offers ice cream in flavors like cinnamon, corn and chongos (curdled milk), but don’t miss their mango chili mangonada.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.loards.com/index.htm\" target=\"_blank\">Loard's\u003c/a>: Huge, affordable scoops of seasonal flavors from a East Bay institution. What more could you ask for?\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "DIY Soy-Free Tofu: Yes, You Can Make Tofu From Any Bean You’d Like",
"title": "DIY Soy-Free Tofu: Yes, You Can Make Tofu From Any Bean You’d Like",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Unless you spend a lot of time eating Burmese food or reading alternative wellness food blogs, you have likely not heard of any type of tofu other than the traditional soy-based stuff. That’s not necessarily a problem; soy tofu can be quite delicious, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/06/03/diy-tofu-making-homemade-tofu-is-easier-than-you-think/\">especially when you’re making it yourself\u003c/a>. But there are other tofus out there in the universe: Shan tofu, a Burmese preparation, made from chickpea flour; \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/31/hemp-tofu/\">hemp tofu\u003c/a>, which Vi Zahajszky made for this food blog back in 2012; peanut tofu, made in a similar manner to soy tofu; and a world of other tofu-like concoctions made from any bean you can think of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooks have different reasons for making tofu from beans other than soy. Some are concerned about GMOs, others have soy allergies, while still others just like the flavor of a different type of bean. Personally, I’m in the “I want to explore new flavors” camp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this exploration, I’ve learned that you can’t just pull another dried bean out of your pantry and follow soy tofu directions. Soybeans are actually quite unique, and it is their particular protein and fat proportions that allow their milk to be curdled and separated just like cheese. According to some internet sources, peanuts behave similarly to soybeans and, with the help of a couple of extra ingredients, can be treated the same way. (Unfortunately for all of you reading this, I am allergic to peanuts, so I’ll leave you to experiment with them and report back in the comments.) Other beans need an almost entirely different approach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most common recipe for soy-free tofu is chickpea flour-based Shan tofu. Chickpea flour is simply finely ground dried chickpeas, and, thanks to its use in gluten-free baking, it is now fairly easy to find in grocery stores. However, I set out to make this recipe adaptable for any dried bean in your pantry and it is not very easy to find flours made from cannellini or pinto beans. (I’m also assuming that most of you do not own a grain mill with which you could grind your own dried beans into flour.) Instead, I decided to harness the power of starch, along with my bean milks of choice, to make my soy-free tofu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yes, before the definition police come calling, I do know that, traditionally, “tofu” is only made from bean curd. However, there already exists a range of tofu-like products made with other ingredients that are referred to as tofus, so I will do the same. You can make up your own new name if you’d prefer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118121\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_.jpg\" alt=\"First, soak your bean of choice in cool water overnight.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1330\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118121\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-160x111.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-800x554.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-768x532.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-1020x707.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-1180x817.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-960x665.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-240x166.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-375x260.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-520x360.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">First, soak your bean of choice in cool water overnight. \u003ccite>(Kate Williams)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To get started, soak your bean of choice in cool water overnight. I prefer using yellow- or white-colored beans, such as chickpeas or cannellini beans, because they make for a prettier end product. If you prefer black or pinto beans and don’t mind their dark colors, I say go for it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next day, drain and rinse the soaked beans and blend them up with 2 cups of water. Get this mixture as smooth as possible — you’re trying to get all of the protein and starch out of those dried beans. If you’ve been paying attention, this process is almost the same, so far, as \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/06/03/diy-tofu-making-homemade-tofu-is-easier-than-you-think/\">soy tofu\u003c/a>. However, the volume of milk is smaller; this is because we will not be curdling and separating out the milk, giving us a higher yield per given volume of beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118122\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_.jpg\" alt=\"Squeeze out as much milk and starch from the ground bean pulp as possible.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1339\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118122\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-800x558.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-768x536.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-1020x711.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-1180x823.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-960x670.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-240x167.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-375x262.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-520x363.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Squeeze out as much milk and starch from the ground bean pulp as possible. \u003ccite>(Kate Williams)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now strain the milk through a towel-lined strainer into a large bowl. Twist and squeeze the towel to get as much of the milk (and starch) out from the bean pulp as possible. Discard or compost the bean pulp; it is still raw and likely not very tasty!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next, pour the milk into a pot along with a teaspoon of salt. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook the milk for 15 minutes. This cooking process will take away any raw bean flavor and will make the final tofu digestible and delicious. Depending on your bean of choice, you will notice that the milk will have started to thicken by this point. Chickpeas, for example, have quite a bit of starch in them, and their milk will turn to a thick custard on its own. In fact, some recipes say that you can cook chickpea milk to a tofu-like thickness all on its own; unfortunately, I did not have any success with this method.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To get the milk from custard to sliceable tofu, you will need to add more starch. I like to use cornstarch since it is cheap and always on hand in my house. If you prefer not to use cornstarch, other recipes call for tapioca, potato starch or (you may have guessed it) additional chickpea flour. Experiment as you’d like!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118119\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Stir the thickened bean milk until it starts to pull away from the sides of the pot.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118119\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stir the thickened bean milk until it starts to pull away from the sides of the pot. \u003ccite>(Kate Williams)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In order to keep lumps from forming in the cornstarch, you’ll want to make a slurry/paste concoction. Pour out around a cup of the bean milk into a bowl and sift in the starch. Whisk it well, and then add the slurry back into the main pot of milk. Keep stirring until the mixture becomes super thick and pulls away from the sides of the pot. If the milk doesn’t thicken up within a minute, sift more cornstarch into the milk, a tablespoon at a time, until it does. You’ll know it when you see it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, transfer the thickened tofu mixture to a loaf pan and let it cool. The tofu will continue to thicken and set as it reaches room temperature. Once it is cooled, you can flip it out onto a cutting board and cut it into bite-sized pieces. Depending on the bean you’ve used, the tofu will have a slightly different texture. Cannellini tofu is more jelly-like than chickpea tofu, for example, and they’ll all be less firm than traditional soy tofu. If you’d like to cook them, I’d highly recommend using a non-stick skillet and a gentle hand. Or, do as I’ve been doing, and pop a few cubes into your mouth straight from the fridge as a protein-packed afternoon snack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118118\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade cannellini and chickpea tofus.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118118\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade cannellini and chickpea tofus. \u003ccite>(Kate Williams)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Homemade Soy-Free Tofu\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 1 pound\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> Unlike traditional soy tofu, which is made by separating soy milk into curds and whey, “alterna-tofus” are set by cooking down their milk and an additional starch. All beans contain some starch, but this is not enough to fully set the tofu on its own. Because every type of bean has a slightly different starch content, I’ve written this recipe to use a flexible amount of cornstarch. You may need to experiment a bit to find your perfect proportions. In this recipe I prefer to use light-colored beans, such as chickpeas or cannellini beans, instead of brown or black beans, because the final result is simply prettier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>½ cup dried beans, such as chickpeas or cannellini beans\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>⅓ cup cornstarch, plus more as needed\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>The night before making the tofu, place the dried beans in a large bowl and cover them with at least 2 inches of cold water. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it sit on the counter overnight.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The next day, drain the beans in a colander and rinse with cold water. Transfer the beans to a blender and cover with the water. Blend until very smooth, about 1 minute. You should no longer be able to see any little bits of bean and the mixture should be slightly foamy.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place a strainer over a large bowl or pot. Line the strainer with a thin kitchen towel or a triple layer of cheesecloth. Pour the bean milk slurry into the towel-lined strainer, letting the milk drain through.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring the edges of the towel together to form a sack and twist to squeeze out more of the milk. Try to get out as much of the milk as possible. Compost the bean pulp. (Unlike with soybean tofu, this pulp is still basically raw, so it likely will not taste great.)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour the strained bean milk into a medium saucepan, add the salt, and place the pot over medium heat. Bring the milk to a low simmer, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Reduce the heat as low as it will go. Ladle out about a cup of the milk out into a large bowl. Sift the cornstarch over the milk in the bowl and whisk it in until smooth. Pour the cornstarch-milk mixture into the pot with the remaining milk and whisk until smooth. Continue to cook, whisking constantly, until the bean mixture turns extremely thick and pulls away from the sides of the pot, 30 seconds to 1 minute. If the mixture does not thicken up, sift in additional cornstarch, 1 tablespoon at a time, until it does.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Transfer the tofu mixture to a loaf pan measuring about 9 by 5 inches (smaller loaf pans will work as well; your tofu will be thicker) and smooth the top as best you can. Let the tofu cool completely.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Flip the cooled tofu out onto a cutting board (it should slide right out) and cut into squares. You can store the tofu for up to 1 week before eating.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Unless you spend a lot of time eating Burmese food or reading alternative wellness food blogs, you have likely not heard of any type of tofu other than the traditional soy-based stuff. That’s not necessarily a problem; soy tofu can be quite delicious, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/06/03/diy-tofu-making-homemade-tofu-is-easier-than-you-think/\">especially when you’re making it yourself\u003c/a>. But there are other tofus out there in the universe: Shan tofu, a Burmese preparation, made from chickpea flour; \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/31/hemp-tofu/\">hemp tofu\u003c/a>, which Vi Zahajszky made for this food blog back in 2012; peanut tofu, made in a similar manner to soy tofu; and a world of other tofu-like concoctions made from any bean you can think of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooks have different reasons for making tofu from beans other than soy. Some are concerned about GMOs, others have soy allergies, while still others just like the flavor of a different type of bean. Personally, I’m in the “I want to explore new flavors” camp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this exploration, I’ve learned that you can’t just pull another dried bean out of your pantry and follow soy tofu directions. Soybeans are actually quite unique, and it is their particular protein and fat proportions that allow their milk to be curdled and separated just like cheese. According to some internet sources, peanuts behave similarly to soybeans and, with the help of a couple of extra ingredients, can be treated the same way. (Unfortunately for all of you reading this, I am allergic to peanuts, so I’ll leave you to experiment with them and report back in the comments.) Other beans need an almost entirely different approach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most common recipe for soy-free tofu is chickpea flour-based Shan tofu. Chickpea flour is simply finely ground dried chickpeas, and, thanks to its use in gluten-free baking, it is now fairly easy to find in grocery stores. However, I set out to make this recipe adaptable for any dried bean in your pantry and it is not very easy to find flours made from cannellini or pinto beans. (I’m also assuming that most of you do not own a grain mill with which you could grind your own dried beans into flour.) Instead, I decided to harness the power of starch, along with my bean milks of choice, to make my soy-free tofu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yes, before the definition police come calling, I do know that, traditionally, “tofu” is only made from bean curd. However, there already exists a range of tofu-like products made with other ingredients that are referred to as tofus, so I will do the same. You can make up your own new name if you’d prefer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118121\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_.jpg\" alt=\"First, soak your bean of choice in cool water overnight.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1330\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118121\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-160x111.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-800x554.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-768x532.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-1020x707.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-1180x817.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-960x665.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-240x166.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-375x260.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-520x360.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">First, soak your bean of choice in cool water overnight. \u003ccite>(Kate Williams)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To get started, soak your bean of choice in cool water overnight. I prefer using yellow- or white-colored beans, such as chickpeas or cannellini beans, because they make for a prettier end product. If you prefer black or pinto beans and don’t mind their dark colors, I say go for it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next day, drain and rinse the soaked beans and blend them up with 2 cups of water. Get this mixture as smooth as possible — you’re trying to get all of the protein and starch out of those dried beans. If you’ve been paying attention, this process is almost the same, so far, as \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/06/03/diy-tofu-making-homemade-tofu-is-easier-than-you-think/\">soy tofu\u003c/a>. However, the volume of milk is smaller; this is because we will not be curdling and separating out the milk, giving us a higher yield per given volume of beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118122\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_.jpg\" alt=\"Squeeze out as much milk and starch from the ground bean pulp as possible.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1339\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118122\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-800x558.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-768x536.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-1020x711.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-1180x823.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-960x670.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-240x167.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-375x262.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-520x363.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Squeeze out as much milk and starch from the ground bean pulp as possible. \u003ccite>(Kate Williams)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now strain the milk through a towel-lined strainer into a large bowl. Twist and squeeze the towel to get as much of the milk (and starch) out from the bean pulp as possible. Discard or compost the bean pulp; it is still raw and likely not very tasty!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next, pour the milk into a pot along with a teaspoon of salt. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook the milk for 15 minutes. This cooking process will take away any raw bean flavor and will make the final tofu digestible and delicious. Depending on your bean of choice, you will notice that the milk will have started to thicken by this point. Chickpeas, for example, have quite a bit of starch in them, and their milk will turn to a thick custard on its own. In fact, some recipes say that you can cook chickpea milk to a tofu-like thickness all on its own; unfortunately, I did not have any success with this method.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To get the milk from custard to sliceable tofu, you will need to add more starch. I like to use cornstarch since it is cheap and always on hand in my house. If you prefer not to use cornstarch, other recipes call for tapioca, potato starch or (you may have guessed it) additional chickpea flour. Experiment as you’d like!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118119\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Stir the thickened bean milk until it starts to pull away from the sides of the pot.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118119\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stir the thickened bean milk until it starts to pull away from the sides of the pot. \u003ccite>(Kate Williams)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In order to keep lumps from forming in the cornstarch, you’ll want to make a slurry/paste concoction. Pour out around a cup of the bean milk into a bowl and sift in the starch. Whisk it well, and then add the slurry back into the main pot of milk. Keep stirring until the mixture becomes super thick and pulls away from the sides of the pot. If the milk doesn’t thicken up within a minute, sift more cornstarch into the milk, a tablespoon at a time, until it does. You’ll know it when you see it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, transfer the thickened tofu mixture to a loaf pan and let it cool. The tofu will continue to thicken and set as it reaches room temperature. Once it is cooled, you can flip it out onto a cutting board and cut it into bite-sized pieces. Depending on the bean you’ve used, the tofu will have a slightly different texture. Cannellini tofu is more jelly-like than chickpea tofu, for example, and they’ll all be less firm than traditional soy tofu. If you’d like to cook them, I’d highly recommend using a non-stick skillet and a gentle hand. Or, do as I’ve been doing, and pop a few cubes into your mouth straight from the fridge as a protein-packed afternoon snack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118118\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade cannellini and chickpea tofus.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118118\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade cannellini and chickpea tofus. \u003ccite>(Kate Williams)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Homemade Soy-Free Tofu\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 1 pound\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> Unlike traditional soy tofu, which is made by separating soy milk into curds and whey, “alterna-tofus” are set by cooking down their milk and an additional starch. All beans contain some starch, but this is not enough to fully set the tofu on its own. Because every type of bean has a slightly different starch content, I’ve written this recipe to use a flexible amount of cornstarch. You may need to experiment a bit to find your perfect proportions. In this recipe I prefer to use light-colored beans, such as chickpeas or cannellini beans, instead of brown or black beans, because the final result is simply prettier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>½ cup dried beans, such as chickpeas or cannellini beans\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>⅓ cup cornstarch, plus more as needed\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>The night before making the tofu, place the dried beans in a large bowl and cover them with at least 2 inches of cold water. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it sit on the counter overnight.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The next day, drain the beans in a colander and rinse with cold water. Transfer the beans to a blender and cover with the water. Blend until very smooth, about 1 minute. You should no longer be able to see any little bits of bean and the mixture should be slightly foamy.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place a strainer over a large bowl or pot. Line the strainer with a thin kitchen towel or a triple layer of cheesecloth. Pour the bean milk slurry into the towel-lined strainer, letting the milk drain through.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring the edges of the towel together to form a sack and twist to squeeze out more of the milk. Try to get out as much of the milk as possible. Compost the bean pulp. (Unlike with soybean tofu, this pulp is still basically raw, so it likely will not taste great.)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour the strained bean milk into a medium saucepan, add the salt, and place the pot over medium heat. Bring the milk to a low simmer, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Reduce the heat as low as it will go. Ladle out about a cup of the milk out into a large bowl. Sift the cornstarch over the milk in the bowl and whisk it in until smooth. Pour the cornstarch-milk mixture into the pot with the remaining milk and whisk until smooth. Continue to cook, whisking constantly, until the bean mixture turns extremely thick and pulls away from the sides of the pot, 30 seconds to 1 minute. If the mixture does not thicken up, sift in additional cornstarch, 1 tablespoon at a time, until it does.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Transfer the tofu mixture to a loaf pan measuring about 9 by 5 inches (smaller loaf pans will work as well; your tofu will be thicker) and smooth the top as best you can. Let the tofu cool completely.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Flip the cooled tofu out onto a cutting board (it should slide right out) and cut into squares. You can store the tofu for up to 1 week before eating.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"mindshift": {
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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},
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},
"perspectives": {
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"order": 14
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"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
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"politicalbreakdown": {
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"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.possible.fm/",
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"source": "Possible"
},
"link": "/radio/program/possible",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"
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},
"pri-the-world": {
"id": "pri-the-world",
"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 2pm-3pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
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