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"content": "\u003cp>The contents of a pink doughnut box are usually pretty predictable — chocolate- or sprinkle-covered rings that offer a bit of sweetness and chewiness to get you through your morning. But at \u003ca href=\"https://www.eizelsbakery.com/\">Eizel’s Bakery\u003c/a>, a pop-up in the South Bay, some of the doughnuts are glazed with crackly caramelized sugar while others are filled with saucy crustaceans. Another Korean-inspired, doughnut-adjacent treat erupts with garlicky custard when you bite in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, Eizel’s isn’t the first bakery to try to reinvent the doughnut. But the way the pop-up blends classical pastry techniques with a wildly multicultural palette of flavors and ingredients sets it apart from the crowd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like so many other home bakers, Eizel Mafnas started her pop-up in 2021 as a way to connect with her community during the pandemic. Then, as now, she juggled the bakery with an IT job at the Stanford Children’s Hospital. “I thought, what’s the harm in starting a business?” says Mafnas. “If it works out, great I’ll keep doing it while it’s still fun for me. Three years later, I’m still having a lot of fun — though it is a lot of work.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967920\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967920\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas.jpg\" alt=\"A baker poses at her farmers market display of doughnuts and other baked treats.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eizel Mafnas draws inspiration from her native Philippines and from other restaurants and cuisines she loves. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mafnas began by selling brownies, using a recipe she refined over years of baking for family and friends. Now, the business has evolved to include Bombay chex mix, bacon jam empanadas and, as of this year, a creative collection of both sweet and savory doughnuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A couple of Mafnas’s doughnuts are inspired by the flavors of the Philippines, where she grew up. “I’m most proud of my ube doughnut,” says Mafnas. “I wanted to make something for the person who hasn’t had any exposure to Filipino culture.” The purple doughnut features ube in three ways: She fills ube brioche with creamy ube jam and sprinkles the outside with ube polvorón, a common shortbread she grew up eating in the Philippines. Another doughnut features calamansi, or Filipino lime. The final product feels like a hybrid between sponge cake and key lime pie, oozing with tangy custard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For some of her more multicultural doughnuts, Mafnas draws inspiration from dishes at some of her favorite restaurants. One of the most striking examples is a crawfish doughnut inspired by the crawfish beignets at Brenda’s French Soul Food in San Francisco. In Mafnas’s version, crawfish meat is stuffed into a savory brioche doughnut along with a garlicky Cajun sauce and gooey cheese so that the inside of the pastry gets a little bit soggy. It’s like the inverse of using crusty bread to soak up the sauce on a seafood plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967922\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967922\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun.jpg\" alt=\"A savory bun dusted with Parmesan cheese.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A savory Korean garlic bun, dusted with Parmesan cheese. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When \u003ca href=\"https://www.thekitchn.com/dubai-knafeh-pistachio-chocolate-bar-review-23676829\">Dubai chocolate bars\u003c/a> went viral on social media earlier this year, Mafnas spun a doughnut version complete with homemade pistachio cream. And for the pumpkin spice season, she created a pumpkin cake doughnut topped with pecan praline, pumpkin caramel and a cream cheese glaze. “It’s a nice challenge to see what you can make into a doughnut,” says Mafnas. “Before it would take me weeks to figure out a doughnut. Now, it takes me a few days.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13965215,arts_13958172,arts_13965475']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>By watching \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/jacques-pepin-cooking-at-home\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a> and other PBS cooking shows like \u003ci>America’s Test Kitchen, \u003c/i>Mafnas learned to think about how ingredients interact with each other rather than simply following a recipe. “Baking allows me to get creative and break that mold that things have to be precise, “ says Mafnas. “But I’m having a hard time with apple fritters — I fried it, and it just disintegrated.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She’s persistent, though, and commits to developing recipes even when faced with hurdles. (She’s still working on those apple fritters!) Her ability to turn anything into a doughnut might seem like magic, but really, she’s gotten the process down to a science. Every single detail is carefully considered, like the balance between sweetness and acidity or whether a pastry needs some element to add textural contrast. Every doughnut’s filling complements its exterior — for example, the crème brûlée doughnut has a sticky, shattering top with a touch of bitterness that’s counteracted by the dollop of sweet custard inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967924\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967924\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of an ube doughnut and creme brulee doughnut in a takeout container.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A crème brûlée doughnut (left) and ube doughnut. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mafnas and her team produce their goods out of a commercial kitchen, but Mafnas says they’re close to outgrowing the space. Aside from popping up at farmers markets and events, Eizel’s baked goods are also stocked at coffee shops in San Jose. During a recent Sunday morning pop-up at the Japantown Farmers Market, a crowd of customers waited patiently in line — and many of the most popular doughnuts sell out within the first two hours of any given event, Mafnas says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I hope to one day open my own doughnut shop and bring in other things,” says Mafnas, “There’s so much more in my head I want to bring out to folks.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eizelsbakery/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Eizel’s Bakery\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> pops up at farmers markets and events around the South Bay. The next pop-up is at \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pourdecisionscraft.com/\">\u003ci>Pour Decisions\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (5700 Village Oaks Dr. #20) in San Jose Saturday, Nov. 9. For information about future pop-ups, check out Eizel’s \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eizelsbakery/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Instagram page\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. It will attend the \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sanjosemade.com/pages/sjmade-holiday-fair-2024\">\u003ci>SJ Made Holiday Fair\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (Santa Clara Convention Center) on Nov. 29–30.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The contents of a pink doughnut box are usually pretty predictable — chocolate- or sprinkle-covered rings that offer a bit of sweetness and chewiness to get you through your morning. But at \u003ca href=\"https://www.eizelsbakery.com/\">Eizel’s Bakery\u003c/a>, a pop-up in the South Bay, some of the doughnuts are glazed with crackly caramelized sugar while others are filled with saucy crustaceans. Another Korean-inspired, doughnut-adjacent treat erupts with garlicky custard when you bite in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, Eizel’s isn’t the first bakery to try to reinvent the doughnut. But the way the pop-up blends classical pastry techniques with a wildly multicultural palette of flavors and ingredients sets it apart from the crowd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like so many other home bakers, Eizel Mafnas started her pop-up in 2021 as a way to connect with her community during the pandemic. Then, as now, she juggled the bakery with an IT job at the Stanford Children’s Hospital. “I thought, what’s the harm in starting a business?” says Mafnas. “If it works out, great I’ll keep doing it while it’s still fun for me. Three years later, I’m still having a lot of fun — though it is a lot of work.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967920\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967920\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas.jpg\" alt=\"A baker poses at her farmers market display of doughnuts and other baked treats.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Eizel-Mafnas-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eizel Mafnas draws inspiration from her native Philippines and from other restaurants and cuisines she loves. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mafnas began by selling brownies, using a recipe she refined over years of baking for family and friends. Now, the business has evolved to include Bombay chex mix, bacon jam empanadas and, as of this year, a creative collection of both sweet and savory doughnuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A couple of Mafnas’s doughnuts are inspired by the flavors of the Philippines, where she grew up. “I’m most proud of my ube doughnut,” says Mafnas. “I wanted to make something for the person who hasn’t had any exposure to Filipino culture.” The purple doughnut features ube in three ways: She fills ube brioche with creamy ube jam and sprinkles the outside with ube polvorón, a common shortbread she grew up eating in the Philippines. Another doughnut features calamansi, or Filipino lime. The final product feels like a hybrid between sponge cake and key lime pie, oozing with tangy custard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For some of her more multicultural doughnuts, Mafnas draws inspiration from dishes at some of her favorite restaurants. One of the most striking examples is a crawfish doughnut inspired by the crawfish beignets at Brenda’s French Soul Food in San Francisco. In Mafnas’s version, crawfish meat is stuffed into a savory brioche doughnut along with a garlicky Cajun sauce and gooey cheese so that the inside of the pastry gets a little bit soggy. It’s like the inverse of using crusty bread to soak up the sauce on a seafood plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967922\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967922\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun.jpg\" alt=\"A savory bun dusted with Parmesan cheese.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Korean-Garlic-Bun-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A savory Korean garlic bun, dusted with Parmesan cheese. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When \u003ca href=\"https://www.thekitchn.com/dubai-knafeh-pistachio-chocolate-bar-review-23676829\">Dubai chocolate bars\u003c/a> went viral on social media earlier this year, Mafnas spun a doughnut version complete with homemade pistachio cream. And for the pumpkin spice season, she created a pumpkin cake doughnut topped with pecan praline, pumpkin caramel and a cream cheese glaze. “It’s a nice challenge to see what you can make into a doughnut,” says Mafnas. “Before it would take me weeks to figure out a doughnut. Now, it takes me a few days.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>By watching \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/jacques-pepin-cooking-at-home\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a> and other PBS cooking shows like \u003ci>America’s Test Kitchen, \u003c/i>Mafnas learned to think about how ingredients interact with each other rather than simply following a recipe. “Baking allows me to get creative and break that mold that things have to be precise, “ says Mafnas. “But I’m having a hard time with apple fritters — I fried it, and it just disintegrated.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She’s persistent, though, and commits to developing recipes even when faced with hurdles. (She’s still working on those apple fritters!) Her ability to turn anything into a doughnut might seem like magic, but really, she’s gotten the process down to a science. Every single detail is carefully considered, like the balance between sweetness and acidity or whether a pastry needs some element to add textural contrast. Every doughnut’s filling complements its exterior — for example, the crème brûlée doughnut has a sticky, shattering top with a touch of bitterness that’s counteracted by the dollop of sweet custard inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967924\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967924\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of an ube doughnut and creme brulee doughnut in a takeout container.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/Creme-Brulee-and-Ube-Donut-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A crème brûlée doughnut (left) and ube doughnut. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mafnas and her team produce their goods out of a commercial kitchen, but Mafnas says they’re close to outgrowing the space. Aside from popping up at farmers markets and events, Eizel’s baked goods are also stocked at coffee shops in San Jose. During a recent Sunday morning pop-up at the Japantown Farmers Market, a crowd of customers waited patiently in line — and many of the most popular doughnuts sell out within the first two hours of any given event, Mafnas says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I hope to one day open my own doughnut shop and bring in other things,” says Mafnas, “There’s so much more in my head I want to bring out to folks.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eizelsbakery/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Eizel’s Bakery\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> pops up at farmers markets and events around the South Bay. The next pop-up is at \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pourdecisionscraft.com/\">\u003ci>Pour Decisions\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (5700 Village Oaks Dr. #20) in San Jose Saturday, Nov. 9. For information about future pop-ups, check out Eizel’s \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eizelsbakery/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Instagram page\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. It will attend the \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sanjosemade.com/pages/sjmade-holiday-fair-2024\">\u003ci>SJ Made Holiday Fair\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (Santa Clara Convention Center) on Nov. 29–30.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>[dropcap]W[/dropcap]hen Benjamin Glover visited Chicago’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.atelier-chicago.com/\">Atelier\u003c/a> at the end of 2023, he didn’t know what to expect. He left a changed man.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Never having experienced a fine dining tasting menu before, Glover figured he would have to get McDonald’s on the way home — there was no way those tiny plates would do the trick. But over the course of the meal, his mind was fully blown, his spirit stimulated alongside his stomach’s satiation. The thoughtful sequencing of dishes conjured to mind music. “It was like eating my way through an album,” Glover says. “I wanted to make an album that sounded like a tasting menu.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s because when Glover is not eating gourmet dinners, he performs as the rapper \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/blvcksvm/?hl=en\">Blvck Svm\u003c/a>. And he really did wind up creating an entire album that’s inspired by fine dining. It’s called \u003ci>michelinman\u003c/i>, and it drops on Nov. 11. In keeping with the theme, Glover shot the music videos for the album in upscale kitchens around the country, milling between sauciers and line cooks while he raps into a mic that drapes down from the ceiling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given Northern California’s fine-dining bona fides, it should come as no surprise that the project has strong Bay Area connections: Glover himself is based in Chicago, but one of the album’s main producers is from the East Bay. San Francisco fine dining restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.restaurantnisei.com/\">Nisei\u003c/a> gets a name drop on \u003ci>michelinman\u003c/i>’s first track, “greymatter,” and its kitchen — and kitchen team — is featured in the music video for the song.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The songs on \u003ci>michelinman\u003c/i> weave a concentric circle between high-level rapping and high-level cooking, bouncing between basketball references and tuna belly with ease. Tracks are riddled with samples from cooking shows and chefs pleading with diners to pay attention to their palate. On “irongate” Glover details the camel bone spoon he’ll use for Beluga caviar before comparing his duffel bag to a “Twix sans nougat.” On “mikealstott,” he raps in a near-whisper about how he will “trim the fat and drop it on the heat like a Pat Riley contract” — a reference to how the Miami Heat executive was notorious for monitoring his players’ body fat percentage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAjb2ruk1SM\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The songs are both about fine dining and not, shifting between instructions for searing meat and processing grief with ease. Through the 13-song, nearly 40-minute album, Glover’s flow is a low-rolling storm, breathless and quiet as each song’s larger picture emerges minute by minute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Glover wrote the album between April and September of this year and shot the music videos in the same timeframe. Inspired by \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fromtheblockperformance/\">From the Block Performance’s\u003c/a> viral outdoor rap videos, the music videos for \u003ci>michelinman \u003c/i>have a certain Humans of New York feeling to them, as strangers peel around the artist while he raps in public — in this case, inside prominent fine dining kitchens including Oklahoma City’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.nonesuchokc.com/\">NONESUCH\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.thebutcheryyeg.ca/\">The Butchery by RGE RD\u003c/a> in Alberta, Canada.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the videos, Glover plays the part of an interloper praising the work he sees around him. In the one for “greymatter,” shot at Nisei in black and white, the kitchen crew makes quick work of several whole fish, slicing and deboning behind Glover in his puffy jacket. Over a tinkling piano loop, Glover waxes poetic about the Russian Hill restaurant’s raw fish preparations: “I ran out of excuses, I had to make something happen / Break a backend at Nisei or Momotaro / Sashimi otoro, chutoro, cleansing all of my sorrows / Soy sauce only an option if flavor need to be borrowed.” There’s a noir ambiance to the scene, Glover barely visible, the mic hanging in front of him an anchor through the rushing energy of the Nisei kitchen staff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=488DcyAaXV4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Glover has been chasing his rap dreams since he was a kid in Pembroke Pines, Florida. Back then, he modeled himself after the Southern icon Lil Wayne — but that was just for fun during lunch. It was while he was a student at the University of Chicago, shaking like a leaf during his first performances, that he finally rapped in front of an actual audience. His handle’s changed over the years, finally landing on Blvck Svm as a nod to Cartoon Network’s \u003ci>Samurai Jack\u003c/i>. It’s also an homage to Yasuke, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/who-was-yasuke-japans-first-black-samurai-180981416/\">first Black samurai\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13907726']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>During the pandemic, Glover lost his day job as an assistant manager at the university’s gym just before his rap career started to go big: His 2020 single “\u003ca href=\"https://blvcksvm.bandcamp.com/track/bleach\">bleach\u003c/a>,” a brief, lyrically dense track, now has millions of streams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For \u003ci>michelinman\u003c/i>, Glover linked up with Los Angeles–based producer MIKE SUMMERS, but he tapped Fremont musician Max He for sample interpolation. He has been working with Glover for about a year and says that while the Bay Area’s music scene is vast, not a lot of action happens in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13965193/fremont-immigrant-suburb-idealism-my-hometown\">Fremont\u003c/a> — so he was starstruck, for instance, to be working on the same project as Terrace Martin, who plays sax on the album’s outro. “[Blvck Svm’s] music is about redefining luxury into something accessible,” He says, “not something reserved just for the upper class. He talks about the waiter sprinkling lemon pepper on his wings at Wing Stop in the same way he does about sashimi from Nisei.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967664\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967664\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef.jpg\" alt=\"A rapper in a black puffy jacket poses with a chef in the kitchen of a fine dining restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-1536x1025.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-1920x1281.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Glover poses with Nisei chef-owner David Yoshimura. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Blvck Svm)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For David Yoshimura, Nisei’s chef-owner, it was wonderful to be involved in the album at all. Nisei is a fitting restaurant to highlight on the topic of “accessible luxury” — after all, not many other San Francisco restaurants pair \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2024/5/2/24133340/savory-mochi-san-francisco-restaurants\">caviar with mochi\u003c/a>. Glover had reached out to the \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/california/san-francisco/restaurant/nisei\">Michelin-starred restaurant\u003c/a> directly via Instagram, and while a lot of people hit him up with offers to collaborate, Yoshimura was struck by the rapper’s politeness and professionalism. The shoot itself was an easy affair. There’s not usually much yelling in Nisei’s kitchen, he says, so they amped up the energy for the video.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Afterwards, Glover and He came in for dinner, and both of them raved about the mochi caviar course and the miso soup. “They were the nicest guests,” Yoshimura says. “And I think his album is going to be the first of its kind.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967673\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967673\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront.jpg\" alt='A man in a red baseball cap and white \"A Timeless Ape\" T-shirt poses in front of the Chicago waterfront.' width=\"2000\" height=\"2500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-1229x1536.jpg 1229w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-1638x2048.jpg 1638w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-1920x2400.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Glover in front of the Chicago waterfront. \u003ccite>(Michael Tinley, courtesy of Blvck Svm)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Of course, Glover is hardly the\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13955802/bay-area-rappers-food-lyrics-illustrations-e-40-larry-june\"> first rapper to consider food\u003c/a>. The late great MF Doom was famous for his lyrical odes to “Doritos, Cheetos or Fritos.” Earlier this fall, New York experimental rappers Phiik and Lungs put out a dense project called \u003ca href=\"https://pitchfork.com/reviews/albums/phiik-lungs-carrot-season/\">\u003ci>Carrot Season\u003c/i>\u003c/a> that includes a track about psychedelic herbal tea. And the Bay’s own Larry June raps about health food and orange juice, and even \u003ca href=\"https://brokeassstuart.com/2023/04/24/larry-june-and-the-alchemists-love-letter-to-the-bay-area-is-a-delight/\">owns a boba shop\u003c/a> in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13955802,arts_13934248']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>But Glover hopes to be the first full bridge between the mediums — like a fan of flex rap finding a track that gets them deeper into hip-hop, or a diner who heads to Benu for the Instagram pic but leaves weeping like Keanu Reeves in \u003ci>Always Be My Maybe\u003c/i>. His inspirations include MF DOOM and the Griselda hip-hop collective (Boldy James is featured on the album). He cites Action Bronson as another muse, in the way he de-escalates luxurious experiences through irreverent, abstract bars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Glover’s training to get to that level is, fittingly, spent at the chef’s table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“All those things people see as art in food are also in rap. So I spend my time watching how they move through the space,” he says. “The timing, the precision.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://too.fm/michelinman?fbclid=PAZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAaZwbE2w0QgkWzig03KGJJwvFGQh60VyVR65a7G7W0ZLRC1uzS1H7buao00_aem_JNNYZ0-t6kek9RcG8zCqtg\">michelinman\u003c/a> will be available to stream on all platforms on Nov. 11. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">W\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>hen Benjamin Glover visited Chicago’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.atelier-chicago.com/\">Atelier\u003c/a> at the end of 2023, he didn’t know what to expect. He left a changed man.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Never having experienced a fine dining tasting menu before, Glover figured he would have to get McDonald’s on the way home — there was no way those tiny plates would do the trick. But over the course of the meal, his mind was fully blown, his spirit stimulated alongside his stomach’s satiation. The thoughtful sequencing of dishes conjured to mind music. “It was like eating my way through an album,” Glover says. “I wanted to make an album that sounded like a tasting menu.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s because when Glover is not eating gourmet dinners, he performs as the rapper \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/blvcksvm/?hl=en\">Blvck Svm\u003c/a>. And he really did wind up creating an entire album that’s inspired by fine dining. It’s called \u003ci>michelinman\u003c/i>, and it drops on Nov. 11. In keeping with the theme, Glover shot the music videos for the album in upscale kitchens around the country, milling between sauciers and line cooks while he raps into a mic that drapes down from the ceiling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given Northern California’s fine-dining bona fides, it should come as no surprise that the project has strong Bay Area connections: Glover himself is based in Chicago, but one of the album’s main producers is from the East Bay. San Francisco fine dining restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.restaurantnisei.com/\">Nisei\u003c/a> gets a name drop on \u003ci>michelinman\u003c/i>’s first track, “greymatter,” and its kitchen — and kitchen team — is featured in the music video for the song.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The songs on \u003ci>michelinman\u003c/i> weave a concentric circle between high-level rapping and high-level cooking, bouncing between basketball references and tuna belly with ease. Tracks are riddled with samples from cooking shows and chefs pleading with diners to pay attention to their palate. On “irongate” Glover details the camel bone spoon he’ll use for Beluga caviar before comparing his duffel bag to a “Twix sans nougat.” On “mikealstott,” he raps in a near-whisper about how he will “trim the fat and drop it on the heat like a Pat Riley contract” — a reference to how the Miami Heat executive was notorious for monitoring his players’ body fat percentage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/FAjb2ruk1SM'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/FAjb2ruk1SM'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>The songs are both about fine dining and not, shifting between instructions for searing meat and processing grief with ease. Through the 13-song, nearly 40-minute album, Glover’s flow is a low-rolling storm, breathless and quiet as each song’s larger picture emerges minute by minute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Glover wrote the album between April and September of this year and shot the music videos in the same timeframe. Inspired by \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fromtheblockperformance/\">From the Block Performance’s\u003c/a> viral outdoor rap videos, the music videos for \u003ci>michelinman \u003c/i>have a certain Humans of New York feeling to them, as strangers peel around the artist while he raps in public — in this case, inside prominent fine dining kitchens including Oklahoma City’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.nonesuchokc.com/\">NONESUCH\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.thebutcheryyeg.ca/\">The Butchery by RGE RD\u003c/a> in Alberta, Canada.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the videos, Glover plays the part of an interloper praising the work he sees around him. In the one for “greymatter,” shot at Nisei in black and white, the kitchen crew makes quick work of several whole fish, slicing and deboning behind Glover in his puffy jacket. Over a tinkling piano loop, Glover waxes poetic about the Russian Hill restaurant’s raw fish preparations: “I ran out of excuses, I had to make something happen / Break a backend at Nisei or Momotaro / Sashimi otoro, chutoro, cleansing all of my sorrows / Soy sauce only an option if flavor need to be borrowed.” There’s a noir ambiance to the scene, Glover barely visible, the mic hanging in front of him an anchor through the rushing energy of the Nisei kitchen staff.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/488DcyAaXV4'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/488DcyAaXV4'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Glover has been chasing his rap dreams since he was a kid in Pembroke Pines, Florida. Back then, he modeled himself after the Southern icon Lil Wayne — but that was just for fun during lunch. It was while he was a student at the University of Chicago, shaking like a leaf during his first performances, that he finally rapped in front of an actual audience. His handle’s changed over the years, finally landing on Blvck Svm as a nod to Cartoon Network’s \u003ci>Samurai Jack\u003c/i>. It’s also an homage to Yasuke, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/who-was-yasuke-japans-first-black-samurai-180981416/\">first Black samurai\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>During the pandemic, Glover lost his day job as an assistant manager at the university’s gym just before his rap career started to go big: His 2020 single “\u003ca href=\"https://blvcksvm.bandcamp.com/track/bleach\">bleach\u003c/a>,” a brief, lyrically dense track, now has millions of streams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For \u003ci>michelinman\u003c/i>, Glover linked up with Los Angeles–based producer MIKE SUMMERS, but he tapped Fremont musician Max He for sample interpolation. He has been working with Glover for about a year and says that while the Bay Area’s music scene is vast, not a lot of action happens in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13965193/fremont-immigrant-suburb-idealism-my-hometown\">Fremont\u003c/a> — so he was starstruck, for instance, to be working on the same project as Terrace Martin, who plays sax on the album’s outro. “[Blvck Svm’s] music is about redefining luxury into something accessible,” He says, “not something reserved just for the upper class. He talks about the waiter sprinkling lemon pepper on his wings at Wing Stop in the same way he does about sashimi from Nisei.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967664\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967664\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef.jpg\" alt=\"A rapper in a black puffy jacket poses with a chef in the kitchen of a fine dining restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-1536x1025.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-nisei-chef-1920x1281.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Glover poses with Nisei chef-owner David Yoshimura. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Blvck Svm)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For David Yoshimura, Nisei’s chef-owner, it was wonderful to be involved in the album at all. Nisei is a fitting restaurant to highlight on the topic of “accessible luxury” — after all, not many other San Francisco restaurants pair \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2024/5/2/24133340/savory-mochi-san-francisco-restaurants\">caviar with mochi\u003c/a>. Glover had reached out to the \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/california/san-francisco/restaurant/nisei\">Michelin-starred restaurant\u003c/a> directly via Instagram, and while a lot of people hit him up with offers to collaborate, Yoshimura was struck by the rapper’s politeness and professionalism. The shoot itself was an easy affair. There’s not usually much yelling in Nisei’s kitchen, he says, so they amped up the energy for the video.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Afterwards, Glover and He came in for dinner, and both of them raved about the mochi caviar course and the miso soup. “They were the nicest guests,” Yoshimura says. “And I think his album is going to be the first of its kind.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967673\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967673\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront.jpg\" alt='A man in a red baseball cap and white \"A Timeless Ape\" T-shirt poses in front of the Chicago waterfront.' width=\"2000\" height=\"2500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-1229x1536.jpg 1229w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-1638x2048.jpg 1638w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/blck-svm-waterfront-1920x2400.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Glover in front of the Chicago waterfront. \u003ccite>(Michael Tinley, courtesy of Blvck Svm)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Of course, Glover is hardly the\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13955802/bay-area-rappers-food-lyrics-illustrations-e-40-larry-june\"> first rapper to consider food\u003c/a>. The late great MF Doom was famous for his lyrical odes to “Doritos, Cheetos or Fritos.” Earlier this fall, New York experimental rappers Phiik and Lungs put out a dense project called \u003ca href=\"https://pitchfork.com/reviews/albums/phiik-lungs-carrot-season/\">\u003ci>Carrot Season\u003c/i>\u003c/a> that includes a track about psychedelic herbal tea. And the Bay’s own Larry June raps about health food and orange juice, and even \u003ca href=\"https://brokeassstuart.com/2023/04/24/larry-june-and-the-alchemists-love-letter-to-the-bay-area-is-a-delight/\">owns a boba shop\u003c/a> in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>But Glover hopes to be the first full bridge between the mediums — like a fan of flex rap finding a track that gets them deeper into hip-hop, or a diner who heads to Benu for the Instagram pic but leaves weeping like Keanu Reeves in \u003ci>Always Be My Maybe\u003c/i>. His inspirations include MF DOOM and the Griselda hip-hop collective (Boldy James is featured on the album). He cites Action Bronson as another muse, in the way he de-escalates luxurious experiences through irreverent, abstract bars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Glover’s training to get to that level is, fittingly, spent at the chef’s table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“All those things people see as art in food are also in rap. So I spend my time watching how they move through the space,” he says. “The timing, the precision.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://too.fm/michelinman?fbclid=PAZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAaZwbE2w0QgkWzig03KGJJwvFGQh60VyVR65a7G7W0ZLRC1uzS1H7buao00_aem_JNNYZ0-t6kek9RcG8zCqtg\">michelinman\u003c/a> will be available to stream on all platforms on Nov. 11. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Taishan Cuisine Is Keeping Chinatown’s Late-Night Food Scene Alive",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967573\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967573\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men devouring a Chinese meal with chopsticks.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Taishan Cuisine is one of a handful of restaurants in San Francisco that specializes in Taishanese cooking, including its standout yellow eel claypot rice. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Late-night meals in San Francisco Chinatown are a long and storied tradition going back more than 100 years — for \u003ca href=\"https://gastronomica.org/2004/11/04/late-night-lions-den-chinese-restaurant-nightclubs-1940s-san-francisco/\">club-hoppers\u003c/a>, post-shift restaurant workers, \u003ca href=\"https://www.hungryonion.org/t/sf-chinatown-chinatown-food-memories/7734/6\">hippies\u003c/a>, Beat poets and boozehounds making one final pit stop after last call.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re also all but extinct.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, you can count on one hand the number of Chinatown restaurants open later than 9 p.m. \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/food/1337752/remembering-sam-wos-edsel-ford-fong-san-franciscos-rudest-waiter\">Sam Wo\u003c/a>, the neighborhood’s oldest and most iconic after-hours spot, recently announced it will \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/sf-sam-wo-restaurant-sale-risk-of-closure-19808509.php\">close at the end of the year\u003c/a> (barring an eleventh-hour miracle) — and it hasn’t been open past 8:30 since pre-pandemic times anyway. These days, if you’re craving a bowl of jook or a plate of sizzling hot beef chow fun after midnight, you’ll find more options out in the Richmond or the Sunset than you will anywhere in the vicinity of Chinatown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s hard, then, to overstate the value of a place like Taishan Cuisine, which very quietly serves some of the tastiest Chinese food in San Francisco until 3 a.m. every night. Quietly, anyway, to those outside the community: Taishan is your \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962284/four-kings-hong-kong-restaurant-san-francisco-chinatown-hella-hungry-interview\">favorite Chinese chef’s\u003c/a> favorite Chinatown joint — a low-key cult favorite among \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fuchsiadunlop/p/CztzEKex4G7/\">connoisseurs\u003c/a> of regional Chinese cuisine. And at a little before 10 o’clock on a recent Friday night, the dining room was bustling almost exclusively with Cantonese-speaking locals and only seemed to get busier the later it got.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taishan opened in 2020, barely a month before lockdown, but it’s one of those Chinatown restaurants that looks and feels like it’s been around forever: weathered wooden tables, handwritten specials, the Hong Kong news playing on the TV. A series of red and yellow framed posters highlighting specific menu items has a vintage ’60s design aesthetic. (Each one is inscribed with a poetic Chinese idiom: A medicinal-looking pork belly hot pot dish, for instance, promises to fill men with vigor and serve as a “beauty salon” for women.) The only things that look new are the shiny, high-tech induction burners on each table, for hot pot, which feel almost anachronistic in this setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967575\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967575\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Exterior of Taishan Cuisine restaurant lit up at night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Open until 3 a.m. every night, the restaurant is one of the last remaining late-night food spots in Chinatown. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The restaurant has one of those wide-spanning Chinese menus that can be intimidating for a first-time visitor. There’s a whole page dedicated to hot pot and another page for dim sum. It has a rice porridge section and a noodle section, with a handful of Chinese American standbys like Mongolian beef and sweet and sour chicken mixed in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the restaurant’s name itself gives a clear indication of what you should order: Taishan, aka Toisan, is the part of China’s Guangdong province from which many of the earliest immigrants to California hailed during the Gold Rush, back in the 1850s — the ones who built up San Francisco’s Chinatown. In that sense, you could say that Taishanese food is Chinatown’s mother cuisine, but today, only a handful of spots in San Francisco explicitly market themselves as specializing in dishes from that region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13966812,arts_13963437,arts_13956218']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>At Taishan Cuisine, most of these are listed as “house specials” or “chef’s specials,” and sometimes include the word “Taishan” in the name of the dish. If you stick to these, you’ll do very well for yourself. So, of course we had to order the Taishan roast chicken, which turns out to be a whole, foil-wrapped chicken with golden-brown skin that our efficient server disassembles tableside. Which is to say she rips it apart limb from limb — head, neck and all — with gloved hands until we’re left with a tidy pile of meat and bones. It comes with no sauce or seasoning dip, so we worry it might be a touch bland. But the chicken’s own juices are so flavorful, and the meat is so tender and, well, supremely chicken-y, we can’t stop eating it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another Taishan classic: a plate of Chinese cauliflower (skinnier and more pleasantly crunchy than Western varietals), which comes studded with garlic and tossed with thick slices of preserved sausage until it’s slicked with pork fat and salty juices. It’s one of the most delicious and addicting vegetable stir-fries I’ve eaten in a while.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taishanese food is probably best known for its claypot rice dishes, the most famous being yellow eel claypot rice. At Taishan Cuisine, it’s the biggest splurge on the menu at $48, but the portion is big enough to feed four people easily. It’s hard to describe how fragrant this pot of rice was when our server lifted up the lid. Again, there isn’t much seasoning to speak of — just a bit of soy sauce mixed with rendered eel fat to coat each glistening grain of rice. The eel itself, shredded into small chunks, tastes akin to a mild catfish — mild enough that you can order the dish as a fine and luxurious substitute for white rice, to accompany the rest of your meal. And the best part? The toasty, crunchy, utterly glorious crust that forms at the bottom of the pot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we hadn’t already, in typical fashion, ordered way too much food for two people, we would have loved to try the Taishan-style braised goose or cleansed our palate with the cloudy beef bone soup we saw on several other tables around us. As it was, I felt like we’d barely scratched the surface of what the restaurant, and the cuisine, had to offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the last few weeks, then, this is the meal I keep thinking about. When the hunger pangs strike past midnight, I start daydreaming about claypot rice — and, maybe, for a return to a time when all of Chinatown is lit up late into the night with jook shops and noodle houses and stylish Hong Kong–style cafes. For now, it’ll have to be enough to plan my next meal at Taishan Cuisine. As long as they’re around, Chinatown’s late-night food scene isn’t dead yet.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Taishan Cuisine is open 11 a.m.–3 p.m. and 5 p.m.–3 a.m. daily at 781 Broadway in San Francisco.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967573\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967573\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men devouring a Chinese meal with chopsticks.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Taishan Cuisine is one of a handful of restaurants in San Francisco that specializes in Taishanese cooking, including its standout yellow eel claypot rice. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Late-night meals in San Francisco Chinatown are a long and storied tradition going back more than 100 years — for \u003ca href=\"https://gastronomica.org/2004/11/04/late-night-lions-den-chinese-restaurant-nightclubs-1940s-san-francisco/\">club-hoppers\u003c/a>, post-shift restaurant workers, \u003ca href=\"https://www.hungryonion.org/t/sf-chinatown-chinatown-food-memories/7734/6\">hippies\u003c/a>, Beat poets and boozehounds making one final pit stop after last call.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re also all but extinct.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, you can count on one hand the number of Chinatown restaurants open later than 9 p.m. \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/food/1337752/remembering-sam-wos-edsel-ford-fong-san-franciscos-rudest-waiter\">Sam Wo\u003c/a>, the neighborhood’s oldest and most iconic after-hours spot, recently announced it will \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/sf-sam-wo-restaurant-sale-risk-of-closure-19808509.php\">close at the end of the year\u003c/a> (barring an eleventh-hour miracle) — and it hasn’t been open past 8:30 since pre-pandemic times anyway. These days, if you’re craving a bowl of jook or a plate of sizzling hot beef chow fun after midnight, you’ll find more options out in the Richmond or the Sunset than you will anywhere in the vicinity of Chinatown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s hard, then, to overstate the value of a place like Taishan Cuisine, which very quietly serves some of the tastiest Chinese food in San Francisco until 3 a.m. every night. Quietly, anyway, to those outside the community: Taishan is your \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962284/four-kings-hong-kong-restaurant-san-francisco-chinatown-hella-hungry-interview\">favorite Chinese chef’s\u003c/a> favorite Chinatown joint — a low-key cult favorite among \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fuchsiadunlop/p/CztzEKex4G7/\">connoisseurs\u003c/a> of regional Chinese cuisine. And at a little before 10 o’clock on a recent Friday night, the dining room was bustling almost exclusively with Cantonese-speaking locals and only seemed to get busier the later it got.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taishan opened in 2020, barely a month before lockdown, but it’s one of those Chinatown restaurants that looks and feels like it’s been around forever: weathered wooden tables, handwritten specials, the Hong Kong news playing on the TV. A series of red and yellow framed posters highlighting specific menu items has a vintage ’60s design aesthetic. (Each one is inscribed with a poetic Chinese idiom: A medicinal-looking pork belly hot pot dish, for instance, promises to fill men with vigor and serve as a “beauty salon” for women.) The only things that look new are the shiny, high-tech induction burners on each table, for hot pot, which feel almost anachronistic in this setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967575\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967575\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Exterior of Taishan Cuisine restaurant lit up at night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Taishan-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Open until 3 a.m. every night, the restaurant is one of the last remaining late-night food spots in Chinatown. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The restaurant has one of those wide-spanning Chinese menus that can be intimidating for a first-time visitor. There’s a whole page dedicated to hot pot and another page for dim sum. It has a rice porridge section and a noodle section, with a handful of Chinese American standbys like Mongolian beef and sweet and sour chicken mixed in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the restaurant’s name itself gives a clear indication of what you should order: Taishan, aka Toisan, is the part of China’s Guangdong province from which many of the earliest immigrants to California hailed during the Gold Rush, back in the 1850s — the ones who built up San Francisco’s Chinatown. In that sense, you could say that Taishanese food is Chinatown’s mother cuisine, but today, only a handful of spots in San Francisco explicitly market themselves as specializing in dishes from that region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>At Taishan Cuisine, most of these are listed as “house specials” or “chef’s specials,” and sometimes include the word “Taishan” in the name of the dish. If you stick to these, you’ll do very well for yourself. So, of course we had to order the Taishan roast chicken, which turns out to be a whole, foil-wrapped chicken with golden-brown skin that our efficient server disassembles tableside. Which is to say she rips it apart limb from limb — head, neck and all — with gloved hands until we’re left with a tidy pile of meat and bones. It comes with no sauce or seasoning dip, so we worry it might be a touch bland. But the chicken’s own juices are so flavorful, and the meat is so tender and, well, supremely chicken-y, we can’t stop eating it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another Taishan classic: a plate of Chinese cauliflower (skinnier and more pleasantly crunchy than Western varietals), which comes studded with garlic and tossed with thick slices of preserved sausage until it’s slicked with pork fat and salty juices. It’s one of the most delicious and addicting vegetable stir-fries I’ve eaten in a while.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taishanese food is probably best known for its claypot rice dishes, the most famous being yellow eel claypot rice. At Taishan Cuisine, it’s the biggest splurge on the menu at $48, but the portion is big enough to feed four people easily. It’s hard to describe how fragrant this pot of rice was when our server lifted up the lid. Again, there isn’t much seasoning to speak of — just a bit of soy sauce mixed with rendered eel fat to coat each glistening grain of rice. The eel itself, shredded into small chunks, tastes akin to a mild catfish — mild enough that you can order the dish as a fine and luxurious substitute for white rice, to accompany the rest of your meal. And the best part? The toasty, crunchy, utterly glorious crust that forms at the bottom of the pot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we hadn’t already, in typical fashion, ordered way too much food for two people, we would have loved to try the Taishan-style braised goose or cleansed our palate with the cloudy beef bone soup we saw on several other tables around us. As it was, I felt like we’d barely scratched the surface of what the restaurant, and the cuisine, had to offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the last few weeks, then, this is the meal I keep thinking about. When the hunger pangs strike past midnight, I start daydreaming about claypot rice — and, maybe, for a return to a time when all of Chinatown is lit up late into the night with jook shops and noodle houses and stylish Hong Kong–style cafes. For now, it’ll have to be enough to plan my next meal at Taishan Cuisine. As long as they’re around, Chinatown’s late-night food scene isn’t dead yet.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Taishan Cuisine is open 11 a.m.–3 p.m. and 5 p.m.–3 a.m. daily at 781 Broadway in San Francisco.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "el-garage-quesabirria-pop-up-dokkabier-berkeley-bowl",
"title": "El Garage Returns to Its Pop-Up Roots",
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"content": "\u003cp>These days, it feels like nearly every taco truck and taqueria in the Bay Area is slinging quesabirria — those glistening-red, consomé-soaked tacos with their crispy edges and long pulls of stretchy cheese. But before all that, there was El Garage. In the halcyon pre-pandemic days of 2019, the Richmond pop-up was the \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/11/21/20937687/el-garage-quesabirria-birria-taco-richmond-instagram\">first quesabirria purveyor to truly blow up\u003c/a> in the Bay, and its success helped bring these Tijuana-by-way-of-L.A. beef birria tacos into the mainstream, paving the way for them to become a fixture of our region’s Mexican American food scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, in August, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DA7LNKbyL_6/?hl=en\">El Garage quietly closed\u003c/a> — or at least its brick-and-mortar restaurant in Richmond did, ending a four-year run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Viviana Montano, who runs the business along with her parents and sisters, says El Garage isn’t going anywhere. Instead, the family will focus once again on pop-ups and catering. They’ve already set up one twice-a-month gig at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/dokkaebier_oakland/?hl=en\">Dokkaebier\u003c/a> taproom in Oakland, and they have several other pop-ups in the works — including a possible regular collaboration with Berkeley Bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967250\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967250\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior.jpg\" alt=\"Exterior of El Garage taqueria on a sunny day.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1374\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-1536x1055.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-1920x1319.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The brick-and-mortar restaurant in Richmond never got much foot traffic. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to Montano, closing the restaurant was one the hardest decisions her family has had to make, but it also seemed inevitable for the better part of a year. “We just weren’t bringing enough people in,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fans of the taqueria might be familiar with the basic outlines of \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/11/21/20937687/el-garage-quesabirria-birria-taco-richmond-instagram\">El Garage’s story\u003c/a>: It started as a modest driveway operation in a residential neighborhood, went viral on \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/el_gaaarage/?hl=en\">Instagram\u003c/a> to the point of routinely attracting hour-long lines and eventually, with much fanfare, \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/7/9/21319032/quesabirria-tacos-el-garage-richmond\">opened a 5,000-square-foot restaurant\u003c/a> a few blocks away from the Richmond BART station. For many Bay Area food lovers, El Garage’s quesabirria wasn’t \u003ci>just\u003c/i> their introduction to a new taco style. It was one the best tacos they’d ever eaten, period.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the brick-and-mortar restaurant just never caught on, even as the Montanos expanded their menu to include other crowdpleasers, like pozole and shrimp taquitos. Part of the problem was that there aren’t really any other notable restaurants or attractions in that particular stretch of Richmond, so foot traffic was minimal. Even at the height of El Garage’s popularity, almost all of the business at the restaurant came from takeout and catering. And even when a handful of dine-in customers did sit down for a meal, the dining room still looked empty and sad because it was so big. It became a sort of self-fulfilling feedback loop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967251\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967251\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos.jpg\" alt=\"Shrimp taquitos in a takeout container.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant introduced new dishes, like this take on shrimp taquitos. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Most of our orders every day would just be DoorDash or UberEats. The restaurant was functioning as a ghost kitchen, essentially,” Montano says. In the end, paying rent for such a giant space just wasn’t sustainable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13963832,arts_13895488']Now that the restaurant is closed, the Montanos are fully focused on doing pop-ups and events — in a sense, going back to their roots as a renegade driveway taco stand. The one regular pop-up they’ve already set up — at Dokkaebier’s Jack London Square taproom — will take place every other Saturday. (The next one is on Oct. 26.) And Montano says she’s also in talks with a restaurant in San Francisco’s Mission District about the possibility of setting up another recurring pop-up there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps most exciting, Montano says El Garage is currently in the process of scheduling its first pop-up at the cafe at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/berkeleybowl/\">Berkeley Bowl West\u003c/a>, probably for sometime in November. If all goes well, that, too, might turn into a regular, long-term gig for as many as two or three days a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967253\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967253\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up.jpg\" alt=\"A cook makes tacos on a flat-top grill set up inside a tent.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">El Garage’s original pop-up (circa 2019) took place inside a tent that was set up in the Montanos’ driveway. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the future, Montano says, El Garage would be open to exploring the possibility of opening a smaller restaurant in a better, more central location. But for now, the family feels much more comfortable with the pop-up model — and they’re confident that their food is good enough, and has big enough of a following, that customers will seek them out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s a less stressful situation than having that 5,000-square-foot restaurant,” Montano says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/el_gaaarage/?hl=en\">\u003ci>El Garage\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> currently pops up on every second and fourth Saturday of the month at \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/dokkaebier_oakland/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Dokkaebier\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (420 3rd St.) in Oakland, 2–7:30 p.m. — the next one will be on Saturday, Oct. 26.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967254\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967254\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup.jpg\" alt=\"Closeup of a quesabirria taco, with charred edges on the outside of the tortilla.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Close-up of the cheesy, well-charred goodness. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The quesabirria sensation’s Richmond brick-and-mortar just never really took off.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>These days, it feels like nearly every taco truck and taqueria in the Bay Area is slinging quesabirria — those glistening-red, consomé-soaked tacos with their crispy edges and long pulls of stretchy cheese. But before all that, there was El Garage. In the halcyon pre-pandemic days of 2019, the Richmond pop-up was the \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/11/21/20937687/el-garage-quesabirria-birria-taco-richmond-instagram\">first quesabirria purveyor to truly blow up\u003c/a> in the Bay, and its success helped bring these Tijuana-by-way-of-L.A. beef birria tacos into the mainstream, paving the way for them to become a fixture of our region’s Mexican American food scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, in August, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DA7LNKbyL_6/?hl=en\">El Garage quietly closed\u003c/a> — or at least its brick-and-mortar restaurant in Richmond did, ending a four-year run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Viviana Montano, who runs the business along with her parents and sisters, says El Garage isn’t going anywhere. Instead, the family will focus once again on pop-ups and catering. They’ve already set up one twice-a-month gig at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/dokkaebier_oakland/?hl=en\">Dokkaebier\u003c/a> taproom in Oakland, and they have several other pop-ups in the works — including a possible regular collaboration with Berkeley Bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967250\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967250\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior.jpg\" alt=\"Exterior of El Garage taqueria on a sunny day.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1374\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-1536x1055.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-exterior-1920x1319.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The brick-and-mortar restaurant in Richmond never got much foot traffic. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to Montano, closing the restaurant was one the hardest decisions her family has had to make, but it also seemed inevitable for the better part of a year. “We just weren’t bringing enough people in,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fans of the taqueria might be familiar with the basic outlines of \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/11/21/20937687/el-garage-quesabirria-birria-taco-richmond-instagram\">El Garage’s story\u003c/a>: It started as a modest driveway operation in a residential neighborhood, went viral on \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/el_gaaarage/?hl=en\">Instagram\u003c/a> to the point of routinely attracting hour-long lines and eventually, with much fanfare, \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/7/9/21319032/quesabirria-tacos-el-garage-richmond\">opened a 5,000-square-foot restaurant\u003c/a> a few blocks away from the Richmond BART station. For many Bay Area food lovers, El Garage’s quesabirria wasn’t \u003ci>just\u003c/i> their introduction to a new taco style. It was one the best tacos they’d ever eaten, period.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the brick-and-mortar restaurant just never caught on, even as the Montanos expanded their menu to include other crowdpleasers, like pozole and shrimp taquitos. Part of the problem was that there aren’t really any other notable restaurants or attractions in that particular stretch of Richmond, so foot traffic was minimal. Even at the height of El Garage’s popularity, almost all of the business at the restaurant came from takeout and catering. And even when a handful of dine-in customers did sit down for a meal, the dining room still looked empty and sad because it was so big. It became a sort of self-fulfilling feedback loop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967251\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967251\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos.jpg\" alt=\"Shrimp taquitos in a takeout container.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-shrimp-taquitos-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant introduced new dishes, like this take on shrimp taquitos. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Most of our orders every day would just be DoorDash or UberEats. The restaurant was functioning as a ghost kitchen, essentially,” Montano says. In the end, paying rent for such a giant space just wasn’t sustainable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Now that the restaurant is closed, the Montanos are fully focused on doing pop-ups and events — in a sense, going back to their roots as a renegade driveway taco stand. The one regular pop-up they’ve already set up — at Dokkaebier’s Jack London Square taproom — will take place every other Saturday. (The next one is on Oct. 26.) And Montano says she’s also in talks with a restaurant in San Francisco’s Mission District about the possibility of setting up another recurring pop-up there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps most exciting, Montano says El Garage is currently in the process of scheduling its first pop-up at the cafe at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/berkeleybowl/\">Berkeley Bowl West\u003c/a>, probably for sometime in November. If all goes well, that, too, might turn into a regular, long-term gig for as many as two or three days a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967253\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967253\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up.jpg\" alt=\"A cook makes tacos on a flat-top grill set up inside a tent.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-original-pop-up-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">El Garage’s original pop-up (circa 2019) took place inside a tent that was set up in the Montanos’ driveway. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the future, Montano says, El Garage would be open to exploring the possibility of opening a smaller restaurant in a better, more central location. But for now, the family feels much more comfortable with the pop-up model — and they’re confident that their food is good enough, and has big enough of a following, that customers will seek them out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s a less stressful situation than having that 5,000-square-foot restaurant,” Montano says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/el_gaaarage/?hl=en\">\u003ci>El Garage\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> currently pops up on every second and fourth Saturday of the month at \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/dokkaebier_oakland/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Dokkaebier\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (420 3rd St.) in Oakland, 2–7:30 p.m. — the next one will be on Saturday, Oct. 26.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967254\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967254\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup.jpg\" alt=\"Closeup of a quesabirria taco, with charred edges on the outside of the tortilla.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/el-garage-quesabirria-closeup-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Close-up of the cheesy, well-charred goodness. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "oakland-best-food-city-america-chef-responses",
"title": "Local Chefs Aren’t Surprised to See Oakland Named America’s Top Food City",
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"content": "\u003cp>When Chef Nelson German opened his first Oakland restaurant, alaMar, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/137985/with-seafood-restaurant-alamar-oakland-chef-nelson-german-breaks-from-black-chef-stereotypes\">seafood-forward\u003c/a> concept, he said it encapsulated a part of himself — the one forged in the hustle of working at New York City restaurants and abroad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I was focusing on what worked in the past, to do certain types of cuisines in order to be known and be recognized,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as German spent more time in Oakland, he decided that what he really wanted to do was dig into his Dominican roots. So, he rebranded the business as \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/alamaroakland/?hl=en\">alaMar Dominican Kitchen\u003c/a> — currently the only Dominican restaurant in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>German belongs to a generation of Oakland chefs who are rooting for the city. They acknowledge the many problems it faces — crime, homelessness and political unrest — but are steadfast in the promise of the Town’s vibrant food scene. And apparently food lovers around the country agree: Oakland was recently \u003ca href=\"https://www.cntraveler.com/gallery/best-food-cities-in-the-us-readers-choice-awards\">recognized as the number one food city in the United States\u003c/a> by Condé Nast Traveler’s annual reader’s choice award. It was the only city on the entire West Coast to make the list.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967126\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967126\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021.jpg\" alt=\"A chef poses inside his restaurant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nelson German at his restaurant alaMar, circa 2020. \u003ccite>(Amir Abdul-Shakur)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The accolade took particular note of Oakland’s “diverse food scene.” Just across nearly 80 square miles, you can find a vast variety of cuisines represented. Most other major cities have that. But German and other chefs who spoke with KQED say the city’s culinary offerings are in their own realm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Everything that you’re seeing with all these different cultures are from people from that culture,” he said. “It’s not ‘un blanquito’ opening a Dominican restaurant or something like that. It’s people who have lived it. We’re all embracing whether we’re Asian, Hispanic, Black, embracing our direct lineage — not just a whole continent. The country, the tribes, the city, everything. And it’s really showcased here, with the food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Weyanti Ahmed, born in Sudan and raised in Oakland, said that there’s more to this metropolitan’s special sauce. When she first started selling food out of her home kitchen in Union City, she said most of her customers were from Oakland who were attracted to her soul food comforts, including fried catfish accompanied by garlic noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, around three years ago, as the COVID-19 pandemic hit, Ahmed opened her own place, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ys_choice_/?hl=en\">Y’s Choice\u003c/a>, in Jack London Square. It was a homecoming for Ahmed, and she said she’s grateful that Oakland’s supportive food scene has allowed her to keep going.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, to be back in Oakland, and to be given this opportunity, to be in a restaurant in Oakland is amazing,” she said. “[Oakland] has given opportunities for people such as myself.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967127\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967127\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2.jpg\" alt=\"The Tamales Acapulco food trailer parked in Oakland's Fruitvale District.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the many Latin American food trailers and other street vendors in Oakland’s Fruitvale District. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Condé Nast Traveler gave a specific shoutout to the Fruitvale neighborhood, saying the taco trucks there are serving up some of the best birria in the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13963726,arts_13960933,arts_13958114']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>“It’s a big deal for those of us running small businesses,” Álvaro Ramos said in Spanish. Ramos is the owner of the Fruitvale-based food truck, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/la_grana_fish_oakland/?hl=en\">La Grana Fish\u003c/a>, which gets rave reviews on Yelp and other websites for its fish and birria tacos. “This is an opportunity to continue this beautiful work in trying to serve authentic Mexican cuisine.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ramos, who immigrated to the Bay Area from Jalisco, Mexico, has been running his food truck for five years now. He said the secret to his popular tacos is all in the seasoning, the quality of the meat and plenty of TLC.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same can be said for Oakland’s culinary brand, whose secret sauce seems to be some combination of culturally specific flavors and community spirit. It’s worked up to now, anyway: At least on this one survey, Oakland beat out better-known food cities like New Orleans and Chicago.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When Chef Nelson German opened his first Oakland restaurant, alaMar, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/137985/with-seafood-restaurant-alamar-oakland-chef-nelson-german-breaks-from-black-chef-stereotypes\">seafood-forward\u003c/a> concept, he said it encapsulated a part of himself — the one forged in the hustle of working at New York City restaurants and abroad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I was focusing on what worked in the past, to do certain types of cuisines in order to be known and be recognized,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as German spent more time in Oakland, he decided that what he really wanted to do was dig into his Dominican roots. So, he rebranded the business as \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/alamaroakland/?hl=en\">alaMar Dominican Kitchen\u003c/a> — currently the only Dominican restaurant in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>German belongs to a generation of Oakland chefs who are rooting for the city. They acknowledge the many problems it faces — crime, homelessness and political unrest — but are steadfast in the promise of the Town’s vibrant food scene. And apparently food lovers around the country agree: Oakland was recently \u003ca href=\"https://www.cntraveler.com/gallery/best-food-cities-in-the-us-readers-choice-awards\">recognized as the number one food city in the United States\u003c/a> by Condé Nast Traveler’s annual reader’s choice award. It was the only city on the entire West Coast to make the list.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967126\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967126\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021.jpg\" alt=\"A chef poses inside his restaurant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/nelson-german-2021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nelson German at his restaurant alaMar, circa 2020. \u003ccite>(Amir Abdul-Shakur)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The accolade took particular note of Oakland’s “diverse food scene.” Just across nearly 80 square miles, you can find a vast variety of cuisines represented. Most other major cities have that. But German and other chefs who spoke with KQED say the city’s culinary offerings are in their own realm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Everything that you’re seeing with all these different cultures are from people from that culture,” he said. “It’s not ‘un blanquito’ opening a Dominican restaurant or something like that. It’s people who have lived it. We’re all embracing whether we’re Asian, Hispanic, Black, embracing our direct lineage — not just a whole continent. The country, the tribes, the city, everything. And it’s really showcased here, with the food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Weyanti Ahmed, born in Sudan and raised in Oakland, said that there’s more to this metropolitan’s special sauce. When she first started selling food out of her home kitchen in Union City, she said most of her customers were from Oakland who were attracted to her soul food comforts, including fried catfish accompanied by garlic noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, around three years ago, as the COVID-19 pandemic hit, Ahmed opened her own place, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ys_choice_/?hl=en\">Y’s Choice\u003c/a>, in Jack London Square. It was a homecoming for Ahmed, and she said she’s grateful that Oakland’s supportive food scene has allowed her to keep going.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, to be back in Oakland, and to be given this opportunity, to be in a restaurant in Oakland is amazing,” she said. “[Oakland] has given opportunities for people such as myself.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13967127\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13967127\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2.jpg\" alt=\"The Tamales Acapulco food trailer parked in Oakland's Fruitvale District.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tamales_Acapulco_2-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the many Latin American food trailers and other street vendors in Oakland’s Fruitvale District. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Condé Nast Traveler gave a specific shoutout to the Fruitvale neighborhood, saying the taco trucks there are serving up some of the best birria in the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>“It’s a big deal for those of us running small businesses,” Álvaro Ramos said in Spanish. Ramos is the owner of the Fruitvale-based food truck, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/la_grana_fish_oakland/?hl=en\">La Grana Fish\u003c/a>, which gets rave reviews on Yelp and other websites for its fish and birria tacos. “This is an opportunity to continue this beautiful work in trying to serve authentic Mexican cuisine.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ramos, who immigrated to the Bay Area from Jalisco, Mexico, has been running his food truck for five years now. He said the secret to his popular tacos is all in the seasoning, the quality of the meat and plenty of TLC.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same can be said for Oakland’s culinary brand, whose secret sauce seems to be some combination of culturally specific flavors and community spirit. It’s worked up to now, anyway: At least on this one survey, Oakland beat out better-known food cities like New Orleans and Chicago.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "In San Francisco, Mitchell’s Ice Cream Is the People’s Choice",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966816\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966816\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men eating ice cream outside an ice cream shop at night. The sign above reads, "Mitchell's Ice Cream."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A San Francisco classic since 1953, Mitchell’s Ice Cream’s Mission District shop is known for its tropical fruit flavors and its late-night hours. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you wondered what everyone in San Francisco was doing at 10:30 on a Friday night during the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/science/1994643/yes-these-california-heat-waves-are-connected-to-climate-change-heres-how\">hottest week\u003c/a> of the entire year, I can offer some insight: Almost all of them were standing in line outside \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mitchellsicecreamsanfran/?hl=en\">Mitchell’s Ice Cream\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s what it felt like, anyway, when we pulled up to the classic Mission District scoop shop, sticky with the sweat of yet \u003ci>another\u003c/i> 90-degree October day. Even half an hour before closing time, there were probably three dozen eager ice cream eaters gathered on the sidewalk and crammed inside the shop — a 20-minute wait at a minimum after you grab your number from the ticket machine inside. Go on a weekend, almost any time of day, and it’s always the same. This is an ice cream shop for people who don’t mind standing in line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyway, Mitchell’s enduring popularity — \u003ca href=\"https://mitchellsicecream.com/celebrating-70-years/\">now going on 71 years\u003c/a> — speaks for itself. On the night of our recent visit, the chatty, upbeat crowd consisted of almost every imaginable demographic: flocks of teens, big, multigenerational immigrant families (Arab, South Asian and Filipino American), jocks, nerds, lovey-dovey young couples and at least a handful of solo middle-aged men treating themselves to a late-night sundae (because why not).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that’s because in the Bay Area ice cream scene, Mitchell’s has long been the people’s choice — the big-name San Francisco ice cream brand that most resonates with so many of our region’s multicultural communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some context: When it comes to ice cream, I’ve always been a texture snob, which means I usually gravitate toward newer-school shops that emphasize the extra-creaminess of their product — say, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/biritecreamery/\">Bi-Rite\u003c/a> or a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lushgelato\">Lush\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/the-mad-science-of-gelato-1/\">Gelato\u003c/a>. Mitchell’s, on the other hand, makes pretty classic, old-fashioned hard scoop ice cream. What sets it apart is its near-encyclopedic selection of tropical fruit flavors you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else, at least in the same quality and sheer variety: mango, lychee, ube, avocado (treated properly here as a fruit, as it is throughout most of Asia), lucuma, coconut pineapple, jackfruit and more. Back in the ’60s and ’70s, it was the \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/mitchells-ice-cream-has-Filipino-flavors-sf-16588683.php\">first ice cream shop to bring these tropical flavors to the Bay Area\u003c/a>, using fruit imported directly from Southeast Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13966030,arts_13959808,arts_13956683']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>It’s no wonder, then, that in my heavily Latino neighborhood in Richmond, there are only two ice cream shops — and both of them sell Mitchell’s exclusively. And no wonder that the Bay Area’s Filipino American community has largely adopted the brand as its own. After all, what other local ice cream shop sells buko (young coconut), macapuno (“sweet, meaty coconut”) \u003ci>and \u003c/i>vegan roasted coconut flavors — all made with coconuts imported from the Philippines? And that’s before we even get to Mitchell’s two most iconic Filipino flavors, its mango and ube ice creams. The shop even sells a version of halo-halo, as a “sundae,” that’s as well regarded as many of the ones sold at proper Filipino restaurants. (In fact, for many years I labored under the illusion that Mitchell’s was actually owned by Filipinos. It isn’t.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when I’m in the mood to travel to that particular island of frozen-dessert paradise, Mitchell’s Ice Cream hits the spot like no other shop in the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966817\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966817\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Customers inside a busy ice cream shop.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even at 10:30 p.m., you can expect long lines. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What we loved, too, was the controlled chaos of the place on a busy night — the patience with which the staff divvied out sample tastes to the crowd pressed up against the display case; the hulking Australian who marveled, as he watched his sundae getting made, “This guy’s a legend. Look at the size of that, it’s the size of a baby’s bottom!” This is the kind of place where a stranger will, unprompted, give you a glowing review of the lucuma ice cream — a butterscotch-like flavor made with a Peruvian fruit, the man explained. It’s next on my list to try.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This time, we stuck to the classics: a double scoop of avocado and ube, both luxurious in both their bright colors and the way the flavors were a true, sweet distillation of the original fruit. And then, because we were caught up in the whole celebratory spirit of the place, we got one of Mitchell’s exorbitantly sized banana split sundaes — something we hadn’t even thought about ordering in years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What a joyous thing to eat! It came topped, old-school McDonald’s style, with strawberry sauce, peanuts and whipped cream, plus Maraschino cherries for good measure. For the ice cream, we’d chosen toasted almond (a more flavorful stand-in for vanilla) and mango (some of the best we’ve had in the States), adding a tropical twist to the all-American treat. And in the heat of the night, as we ate our sundae hunched over on the sidewalk, the strawberry sauce and the whipped cream and the melted parts of the ice cream slowly mixed together into the most delicious slurry.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mitchellsicecreamsanfran/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Mitchell’s Ice Cream\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 11 a.m.–11 p.m. daily at 688 San Jose Ave. in San Francisco. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966816\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966816\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men eating ice cream outside an ice cream shop at night. The sign above reads, "Mitchell's Ice Cream."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A San Francisco classic since 1953, Mitchell’s Ice Cream’s Mission District shop is known for its tropical fruit flavors and its late-night hours. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you wondered what everyone in San Francisco was doing at 10:30 on a Friday night during the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/science/1994643/yes-these-california-heat-waves-are-connected-to-climate-change-heres-how\">hottest week\u003c/a> of the entire year, I can offer some insight: Almost all of them were standing in line outside \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mitchellsicecreamsanfran/?hl=en\">Mitchell’s Ice Cream\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s what it felt like, anyway, when we pulled up to the classic Mission District scoop shop, sticky with the sweat of yet \u003ci>another\u003c/i> 90-degree October day. Even half an hour before closing time, there were probably three dozen eager ice cream eaters gathered on the sidewalk and crammed inside the shop — a 20-minute wait at a minimum after you grab your number from the ticket machine inside. Go on a weekend, almost any time of day, and it’s always the same. This is an ice cream shop for people who don’t mind standing in line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyway, Mitchell’s enduring popularity — \u003ca href=\"https://mitchellsicecream.com/celebrating-70-years/\">now going on 71 years\u003c/a> — speaks for itself. On the night of our recent visit, the chatty, upbeat crowd consisted of almost every imaginable demographic: flocks of teens, big, multigenerational immigrant families (Arab, South Asian and Filipino American), jocks, nerds, lovey-dovey young couples and at least a handful of solo middle-aged men treating themselves to a late-night sundae (because why not).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that’s because in the Bay Area ice cream scene, Mitchell’s has long been the people’s choice — the big-name San Francisco ice cream brand that most resonates with so many of our region’s multicultural communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some context: When it comes to ice cream, I’ve always been a texture snob, which means I usually gravitate toward newer-school shops that emphasize the extra-creaminess of their product — say, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/biritecreamery/\">Bi-Rite\u003c/a> or a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lushgelato\">Lush\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/the-mad-science-of-gelato-1/\">Gelato\u003c/a>. Mitchell’s, on the other hand, makes pretty classic, old-fashioned hard scoop ice cream. What sets it apart is its near-encyclopedic selection of tropical fruit flavors you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else, at least in the same quality and sheer variety: mango, lychee, ube, avocado (treated properly here as a fruit, as it is throughout most of Asia), lucuma, coconut pineapple, jackfruit and more. Back in the ’60s and ’70s, it was the \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/mitchells-ice-cream-has-Filipino-flavors-sf-16588683.php\">first ice cream shop to bring these tropical flavors to the Bay Area\u003c/a>, using fruit imported directly from Southeast Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>It’s no wonder, then, that in my heavily Latino neighborhood in Richmond, there are only two ice cream shops — and both of them sell Mitchell’s exclusively. And no wonder that the Bay Area’s Filipino American community has largely adopted the brand as its own. After all, what other local ice cream shop sells buko (young coconut), macapuno (“sweet, meaty coconut”) \u003ci>and \u003c/i>vegan roasted coconut flavors — all made with coconuts imported from the Philippines? And that’s before we even get to Mitchell’s two most iconic Filipino flavors, its mango and ube ice creams. The shop even sells a version of halo-halo, as a “sundae,” that’s as well regarded as many of the ones sold at proper Filipino restaurants. (In fact, for many years I labored under the illusion that Mitchell’s was actually owned by Filipinos. It isn’t.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when I’m in the mood to travel to that particular island of frozen-dessert paradise, Mitchell’s Ice Cream hits the spot like no other shop in the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966817\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966817\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Customers inside a busy ice cream shop.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Mitchells-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even at 10:30 p.m., you can expect long lines. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What we loved, too, was the controlled chaos of the place on a busy night — the patience with which the staff divvied out sample tastes to the crowd pressed up against the display case; the hulking Australian who marveled, as he watched his sundae getting made, “This guy’s a legend. Look at the size of that, it’s the size of a baby’s bottom!” This is the kind of place where a stranger will, unprompted, give you a glowing review of the lucuma ice cream — a butterscotch-like flavor made with a Peruvian fruit, the man explained. It’s next on my list to try.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This time, we stuck to the classics: a double scoop of avocado and ube, both luxurious in both their bright colors and the way the flavors were a true, sweet distillation of the original fruit. And then, because we were caught up in the whole celebratory spirit of the place, we got one of Mitchell’s exorbitantly sized banana split sundaes — something we hadn’t even thought about ordering in years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What a joyous thing to eat! It came topped, old-school McDonald’s style, with strawberry sauce, peanuts and whipped cream, plus Maraschino cherries for good measure. For the ice cream, we’d chosen toasted almond (a more flavorful stand-in for vanilla) and mango (some of the best we’ve had in the States), adding a tropical twist to the all-American treat. And in the heat of the night, as we ate our sundae hunched over on the sidewalk, the strawberry sauce and the whipped cream and the melted parts of the ice cream slowly mixed together into the most delicious slurry.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mitchellsicecreamsanfran/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Mitchell’s Ice Cream\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 11 a.m.–11 p.m. daily at 688 San Jose Ave. in San Francisco. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "A Swanky New Durian Shop Opens in the East Bay",
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"content": "\u003cp>At first glance, the newest trendy-looking store in Richmond’s Pacific East Mall seems like it might be a sleek, high-end boba shop or purveyor of fancy Asian pastries. It’s got bright, colorful signage and an Instagram-friendly selfie spot: a pale-green sofa with \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925835/durian-bay-area-love-letter-singaporean-culture\">durian\u003c/a>-shaped throw pillows, positioned next to a lush faux-durian tree, underneath which sits a teddy bear assembled out of spiky balls that look exactly like freshly picked durians.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the giant, larger-than-life plastic mascot sitting just inside the entrance with a crown on top of his head? Definitely some kind of Boy Durian King, his whole body encased in the spiky shell of Southeast Asia’s King of Fruits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In case it isn’t already clear: JQ&B Liu Shang Pin is an entire store specializing in durian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, the only products it sells are whole Malaysian durians, available in about 10 different varieties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966668\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966668\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display.jpg\" alt=\"Freezer cases filled with dozens of gold foil wrapped durians.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The shop sells about 10 different varieties of Malaysian durian, all picked ripe and flash-frozen. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Open since Oct. 4, Liu Shang Pin is the swankiest durian shop I’ve ever seen. It’s also the only one of its kind in the Bay Area that I’m aware of — selling durian but no other kinds of tropical fruit, and not even any durian drinks or desserts. Instead, the shop’s entire inventory is visible in four carefully ventilated and temperature-controlled freezer cases, where customers can find dozens of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925835/durian-bay-area-love-letter-singaporean-culture\">famously pungent fruits\u003c/a>, each specimen wrapped in shiny gold foil, looking every bit like the luxury food items they are.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It should come as no surprise, then, that the durians at Liu Shang Pin aren’t cheap. Prices range from $16.99 a pound at the low end to a whopping $23.99 a pound for the \u003ca href=\"https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=4cec7896052ae80c03ef5f6118c58c0f&topic=4076.0\">super-trendy Black Thorn variety\u003c/a>, with each spiky-shelled fruit weighing in at four to five pounds. (The Musang King, probably Malaysia’s most famous and popular durian variety, rings up at $17.99 a pound.) In some cases, that means you’re paying more than $100 for a single durian — an expense too hard to swallow even for this durian lover (who, unfortunately, lives in a household of non-durian-eaters). Meanwhile, on the same day as my visit, the 99 Ranch supermarket just down the hall was selling Thai durians for only $11.99 a pound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13925835,arts_13953078,forum_2010101893028']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Of course, 99 Ranch doesn’t sell whole Black Thorns or Musang Kings, to say nothing of the other more obscure varietals sold at Liu Shang Pin. And many supermarkets in the U.S. only sell durians that have been \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2024/06/16/business/durian-china-malaysia-thailand.html\">picked long before they’re ripe\u003c/a>, mainly because the fruit’s shelf life is so short. In those cases, the durian will never fully achieve the rich pungency, sweetness and custardy texture that it’s known for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The owners of Liu Shang Pin, on the other hand, say they’re selling mature durians that are picked and \u003ca href=\"https://www.myfoodresearch.com/uploads/8/4/8/5/84855864/_44__fr-2021-428_razali.pdf\">flash-frozen\u003c/a> when they’re fully ripe. Once you bring the durian home, you just need to let it sit at room temperature for about five hours before cracking it open.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Could durian emerge as the Bay Area’s hottest new luxury food? While the fruit has always been held in the highest esteem by our region’s Southeast Asian communities, conventional wisdom has generally held that it’s just \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2007/05/12/10016534/ooh-that-smell-designing-a-stinkless-durian\">too “stinky”\u003c/a> to attain mainstream popularity in the U.S. What Liu Shang Pin seems to be going for, though, is the connoisseurs’ market — folks for whom a $100 durian might seem like a bargain if it saves you from having to buy a plane ticket to Malaysia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966669\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966669\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king.jpg\" alt='A giant, plastic \"durian king\" mascot with a spiky shell and a crown on his head.' width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The shop’s “durian king” mascot. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>JQ&B Liu Shang Pi is open daily inside the Pacific East Mall (3288 Pierce St.) in Richmond.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>At first glance, the newest trendy-looking store in Richmond’s Pacific East Mall seems like it might be a sleek, high-end boba shop or purveyor of fancy Asian pastries. It’s got bright, colorful signage and an Instagram-friendly selfie spot: a pale-green sofa with \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925835/durian-bay-area-love-letter-singaporean-culture\">durian\u003c/a>-shaped throw pillows, positioned next to a lush faux-durian tree, underneath which sits a teddy bear assembled out of spiky balls that look exactly like freshly picked durians.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the giant, larger-than-life plastic mascot sitting just inside the entrance with a crown on top of his head? Definitely some kind of Boy Durian King, his whole body encased in the spiky shell of Southeast Asia’s King of Fruits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In case it isn’t already clear: JQ&B Liu Shang Pin is an entire store specializing in durian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, the only products it sells are whole Malaysian durians, available in about 10 different varieties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966668\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966668\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display.jpg\" alt=\"Freezer cases filled with dozens of gold foil wrapped durians.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-store-display-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The shop sells about 10 different varieties of Malaysian durian, all picked ripe and flash-frozen. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Open since Oct. 4, Liu Shang Pin is the swankiest durian shop I’ve ever seen. It’s also the only one of its kind in the Bay Area that I’m aware of — selling durian but no other kinds of tropical fruit, and not even any durian drinks or desserts. Instead, the shop’s entire inventory is visible in four carefully ventilated and temperature-controlled freezer cases, where customers can find dozens of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925835/durian-bay-area-love-letter-singaporean-culture\">famously pungent fruits\u003c/a>, each specimen wrapped in shiny gold foil, looking every bit like the luxury food items they are.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It should come as no surprise, then, that the durians at Liu Shang Pin aren’t cheap. Prices range from $16.99 a pound at the low end to a whopping $23.99 a pound for the \u003ca href=\"https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=4cec7896052ae80c03ef5f6118c58c0f&topic=4076.0\">super-trendy Black Thorn variety\u003c/a>, with each spiky-shelled fruit weighing in at four to five pounds. (The Musang King, probably Malaysia’s most famous and popular durian variety, rings up at $17.99 a pound.) In some cases, that means you’re paying more than $100 for a single durian — an expense too hard to swallow even for this durian lover (who, unfortunately, lives in a household of non-durian-eaters). Meanwhile, on the same day as my visit, the 99 Ranch supermarket just down the hall was selling Thai durians for only $11.99 a pound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Of course, 99 Ranch doesn’t sell whole Black Thorns or Musang Kings, to say nothing of the other more obscure varietals sold at Liu Shang Pin. And many supermarkets in the U.S. only sell durians that have been \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2024/06/16/business/durian-china-malaysia-thailand.html\">picked long before they’re ripe\u003c/a>, mainly because the fruit’s shelf life is so short. In those cases, the durian will never fully achieve the rich pungency, sweetness and custardy texture that it’s known for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The owners of Liu Shang Pin, on the other hand, say they’re selling mature durians that are picked and \u003ca href=\"https://www.myfoodresearch.com/uploads/8/4/8/5/84855864/_44__fr-2021-428_razali.pdf\">flash-frozen\u003c/a> when they’re fully ripe. Once you bring the durian home, you just need to let it sit at room temperature for about five hours before cracking it open.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Could durian emerge as the Bay Area’s hottest new luxury food? While the fruit has always been held in the highest esteem by our region’s Southeast Asian communities, conventional wisdom has generally held that it’s just \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2007/05/12/10016534/ooh-that-smell-designing-a-stinkless-durian\">too “stinky”\u003c/a> to attain mainstream popularity in the U.S. What Liu Shang Pin seems to be going for, though, is the connoisseurs’ market — folks for whom a $100 durian might seem like a bargain if it saves you from having to buy a plane ticket to Malaysia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966669\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966669\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king.jpg\" alt='A giant, plastic \"durian king\" mascot with a spiky shell and a crown on his head.' width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/durian-king-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The shop’s “durian king” mascot. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>JQ&B Liu Shang Pi is open daily inside the Pacific East Mall (3288 Pierce St.) in Richmond.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "half-moon-bay-pumpkin-contest-winner-over-2000-pounds-minnesota",
"title": "Pumpkin Weighing 2,471 Pounds Wins Half Moon Bay Contest",
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"content": "\u003cp>A Minnesota horticulture teacher remained the reigning champion Monday of an annual pumpkin-weighing contest in Northern California where his massive gourds have won the top prize four years in a row.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Travis Gienger, of Anoka, Minnesota, beat his closest competitor by 6 pounds (2.7 kilograms) to clinch the victory at the 51st World Championship Pumpkin Weigh-Off in Half Moon Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13904911']His winning gourd came in at 2,471 pounds (1,121 kilograms), falling short of the world record he set last year with a pumpkin weighing 2,749 pounds (1,247 kilograms).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gienger, 44, said that as he has done in the past, he focused on having healthy soil and well-fed plants but that a cold fall with record-breaking rain likely impacted his pumpkin’s growth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We had really, really tough weather and somehow, some way, I kept on working,” Gienger said. “I had to work for this one, and we got it done at the end, but it wasn’t by much.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gienger and his family drove his gargantuan gourd for 35 hours to California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He said the giant pumpkin’s next stop will be in Southern California, where a team of professional carvers will do a 3D carve on it at a Halloween event.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "Asian American Chefs Talk MSG (Making, Sharing, Gathering) in SF Chinatown",
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"content": "\u003cp>You don’t have to go far back to remember when MSG was the most vilified ingredient in America. At the peak of this hysteria, in the ’80s and ’90s, the flavor enhancer was frequently \u003ca href=\"https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/its-the-umami-stupid-why-the-truth-about-msg-is-so-easy-to-swallow-180947626/\">maligned\u003c/a> as a grotesque transmitter of heart palpitations, migraine headaches and assorted other maladies — though, curiously, only when consumed in Chinese takeout and not, say, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/give-msg-a-chance\">bag of Doritos\u003c/a>. These days, of course, these sentiments have largely been debunked as \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2023/09/12/1197874002/umami-savory-taste-history\">bad science\u003c/a> (undergirded by a healthy dose of \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnn.com/2020/01/18/asia/chinese-restaurant-syndrome-msg-intl-hnk-scli/index.html\">racism\u003c/a>), and a new generation of young Asian American chefs have proudly taken up the MSG banner. (One \u003ca href=\"https://www.foodandwine.com/cook-with-msg-8421862\">trendy Cantonese American restaurant\u003c/a> in Brooklyn incorporates it into almost every dish.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s with a knowing and pointed wink, then, that \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/\">Edge on the Square\u003c/a>, a contemporary art hub in San Francisco Chinatown, named its new series of food workshops “MSG\u003ci>” \u003c/i>— only in this case, the letters stand for “making,” “sharing” and “gathering\u003ci>.\u003c/i>” And while monosodium glutamate itself won’t be a primary subject of discussion, those kinds of broader cultural narratives around Asian Americans and food very much \u003ci>are\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In other words, says Edge on the Square head curator Candace Huey, “If food is your primary point of contact about this culture, what types of myths and stereotypes can we dispel?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toward that end, \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/msg\">\u003ci>MSG: Making, Sharing, Gathering\u003c/i>\u003c/a> will feature six talented Asian American chefs, cookbook authors and pop-up entrepreneurs from around San Francisco and the East Bay, each of whom have their own particular relationships to food nostalgia, the Asian diaspora and, in some cases, San Francisco Chinatown itself. Joyce Tang, the Chinese American pastry chef behind Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bakesumpastries/?hl=en\">Bake Sum\u003c/a>, will kick off the series on \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/joyce-tang\">Saturday, Oct. 19\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966499\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966499\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1.jpg\" alt=\"A box of assorted pastries with Asian American flavors.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1984\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-800x794.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-1020x1012.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-160x159.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-768x762.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-1536x1524.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-1920x1905.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A box of assorted pastries from Bake Sum in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Joyce Tang)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Future editions will star Tracy Goh of the Malaysian restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13953078/curry-puff-malaysian-damansara-sf-noe-valley\">Damansara\u003c/a> (Dec. 8), chef Babo Waheed of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/babosconceptkitchen/\">Babo’s Kitchen\u003c/a> (Jan. 18), James Beard Award–winning cookbook author \u003ca href=\"https://eatchofood.com/\">Kristina Cho\u003c/a> (Feb. 8), \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/batikandbaker/?hl=en\">Batik and Baker’s\u003c/a> Audrey Tang (April 12) and Taiwanese dumpling specialist Henry Hsu of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eatoramasama/?hl=en\">Oramasama Dumplings\u003c/a> (May 18).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The workshops are meant to provide a critical lens on how food acts as an “identity marker” and how it helps shape the narrative of Asian America, Huey explains. “We’re thinking about questions related to immigrants and the different threads of colonization, as well as when you move through the pathway of diaspora, how that changes the rituals and the practices related to food preparation.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13962284,arts_13953078,arts_13924997']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>“Edge’s mission is always about how we can shift the narrative and how art” — and, in this case, food — “can be a vehicle for this widening of the aperture,” Huey says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each session will be different, but at the most basic level, there will always be a personal storytelling component and a Q&A. Each chef will share samples of their food (either cooked while guests watch or prepared ahead of time) that connect in some way to the story of their immigrant experience or their cultural heritage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the inaugural workshop, Bake Sum’s Tang will pass out a small box of pastries to help elucidate her theme of “Past, Present and Future.” Attendees will receive a green onion croissant that evokes Tang’s childhood memories of eating green onion pancakes in Chinatown, an okonomiyaki Danish that speaks to the present day and her interpretation of a mooncake, which points toward the future of Asian American diasporic cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Guests will sit at long banquet tables inside the gallery, in the heart of Chinatown, surrounded by the artwork in Edge on the Square’s current exhibition, \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/walking-stories\">\u003ci>Walking Stories\u003c/i>\u003c/a> — which, fittingly, is also centered on stories and storytellers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963121\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963121\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000.jpg\" alt=\"image of crowd holding banners under Chinatown lanterns and an image of a projection on a building front\" width=\"2000\" height=\"864\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-800x346.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-1020x441.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-160x69.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-768x332.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-1536x664.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-1920x829.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Scene from ‘Under the Same Sun,’ a previous event hosted by Edge on the Square. \u003ccite>(Henrik Kam)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tickets for the workshops are pay-what-you-can, with a suggested donation of $20 — though Linda Lui, the art hub’s communications director, stresses that they don’t want the cost to deter anyone from coming. Past Edge on the Square events, like a mahjong night and a concept barter shop, have drawn college students, prominent Asian American intellectuals and activists, and the local “popo” who walks past the Chinatown gallery every night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the \u003ci>MSG \u003c/i>series itself will run through May, that won’t be the end of the project. Edge on the Square is also collaborating with the \u003ca href=\"https://www.goodmedicinefilms.com/forever-chinatown\">Emmy-nominated\u003c/a> San Francisco director James Q. Chan, who will be on hand to film the workshops, with plans to turn them into a six-part documentary series.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/msg\">MSG: Making, Sharing, Gathering\u003c/a>\u003ci> workshops will be held approximately once a month, through May 2025, at Edge on the Square (800 Grant Ave., San Francisco). Tickets for each session will be released online 30 days in advance. The first workshop, featuring Joyce Tang of Bake Sum, will be on Saturday, Oct. 19, 4–5 p.m. Tickets are pay-what-you-can, but must be \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/joyce-tang\">\u003ci>reserved ahead of time\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, as seating is extremely limited.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>You don’t have to go far back to remember when MSG was the most vilified ingredient in America. At the peak of this hysteria, in the ’80s and ’90s, the flavor enhancer was frequently \u003ca href=\"https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/its-the-umami-stupid-why-the-truth-about-msg-is-so-easy-to-swallow-180947626/\">maligned\u003c/a> as a grotesque transmitter of heart palpitations, migraine headaches and assorted other maladies — though, curiously, only when consumed in Chinese takeout and not, say, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/story/give-msg-a-chance\">bag of Doritos\u003c/a>. These days, of course, these sentiments have largely been debunked as \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2023/09/12/1197874002/umami-savory-taste-history\">bad science\u003c/a> (undergirded by a healthy dose of \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnn.com/2020/01/18/asia/chinese-restaurant-syndrome-msg-intl-hnk-scli/index.html\">racism\u003c/a>), and a new generation of young Asian American chefs have proudly taken up the MSG banner. (One \u003ca href=\"https://www.foodandwine.com/cook-with-msg-8421862\">trendy Cantonese American restaurant\u003c/a> in Brooklyn incorporates it into almost every dish.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s with a knowing and pointed wink, then, that \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/\">Edge on the Square\u003c/a>, a contemporary art hub in San Francisco Chinatown, named its new series of food workshops “MSG\u003ci>” \u003c/i>— only in this case, the letters stand for “making,” “sharing” and “gathering\u003ci>.\u003c/i>” And while monosodium glutamate itself won’t be a primary subject of discussion, those kinds of broader cultural narratives around Asian Americans and food very much \u003ci>are\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In other words, says Edge on the Square head curator Candace Huey, “If food is your primary point of contact about this culture, what types of myths and stereotypes can we dispel?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toward that end, \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/msg\">\u003ci>MSG: Making, Sharing, Gathering\u003c/i>\u003c/a> will feature six talented Asian American chefs, cookbook authors and pop-up entrepreneurs from around San Francisco and the East Bay, each of whom have their own particular relationships to food nostalgia, the Asian diaspora and, in some cases, San Francisco Chinatown itself. Joyce Tang, the Chinese American pastry chef behind Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bakesumpastries/?hl=en\">Bake Sum\u003c/a>, will kick off the series on \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/joyce-tang\">Saturday, Oct. 19\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966499\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966499\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1.jpg\" alt=\"A box of assorted pastries with Asian American flavors.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1984\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-800x794.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-1020x1012.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-160x159.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-768x762.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-1536x1524.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Joyce-Tang_@thejoycetang_1-1920x1905.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A box of assorted pastries from Bake Sum in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Joyce Tang)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Future editions will star Tracy Goh of the Malaysian restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13953078/curry-puff-malaysian-damansara-sf-noe-valley\">Damansara\u003c/a> (Dec. 8), chef Babo Waheed of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/babosconceptkitchen/\">Babo’s Kitchen\u003c/a> (Jan. 18), James Beard Award–winning cookbook author \u003ca href=\"https://eatchofood.com/\">Kristina Cho\u003c/a> (Feb. 8), \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/batikandbaker/?hl=en\">Batik and Baker’s\u003c/a> Audrey Tang (April 12) and Taiwanese dumpling specialist Henry Hsu of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eatoramasama/?hl=en\">Oramasama Dumplings\u003c/a> (May 18).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>“Edge’s mission is always about how we can shift the narrative and how art” — and, in this case, food — “can be a vehicle for this widening of the aperture,” Huey says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each session will be different, but at the most basic level, there will always be a personal storytelling component and a Q&A. Each chef will share samples of their food (either cooked while guests watch or prepared ahead of time) that connect in some way to the story of their immigrant experience or their cultural heritage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the inaugural workshop, Bake Sum’s Tang will pass out a small box of pastries to help elucidate her theme of “Past, Present and Future.” Attendees will receive a green onion croissant that evokes Tang’s childhood memories of eating green onion pancakes in Chinatown, an okonomiyaki Danish that speaks to the present day and her interpretation of a mooncake, which points toward the future of Asian American diasporic cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Guests will sit at long banquet tables inside the gallery, in the heart of Chinatown, surrounded by the artwork in Edge on the Square’s current exhibition, \u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/walking-stories\">\u003ci>Walking Stories\u003c/i>\u003c/a> — which, fittingly, is also centered on stories and storytellers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963121\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963121\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000.jpg\" alt=\"image of crowd holding banners under Chinatown lanterns and an image of a projection on a building front\" width=\"2000\" height=\"864\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-800x346.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-1020x441.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-160x69.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-768x332.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-1536x664.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/08/HighFive_2000-1920x829.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Scene from ‘Under the Same Sun,’ a previous event hosted by Edge on the Square. \u003ccite>(Henrik Kam)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tickets for the workshops are pay-what-you-can, with a suggested donation of $20 — though Linda Lui, the art hub’s communications director, stresses that they don’t want the cost to deter anyone from coming. Past Edge on the Square events, like a mahjong night and a concept barter shop, have drawn college students, prominent Asian American intellectuals and activists, and the local “popo” who walks past the Chinatown gallery every night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the \u003ci>MSG \u003c/i>series itself will run through May, that won’t be the end of the project. Edge on the Square is also collaborating with the \u003ca href=\"https://www.goodmedicinefilms.com/forever-chinatown\">Emmy-nominated\u003c/a> San Francisco director James Q. Chan, who will be on hand to film the workshops, with plans to turn them into a six-part documentary series.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/msg\">MSG: Making, Sharing, Gathering\u003c/a>\u003ci> workshops will be held approximately once a month, through May 2025, at Edge on the Square (800 Grant Ave., San Francisco). Tickets for each session will be released online 30 days in advance. The first workshop, featuring Joyce Tang of Bake Sum, will be on Saturday, Oct. 19, 4–5 p.m. Tickets are pay-what-you-can, but must be \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.edgeonthesquare.org/joyce-tang\">\u003ci>reserved ahead of time\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, as seating is extremely limited.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "This Night Market Puts Pacific Island Cuisine Front and Center",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966376\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966376\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2.jpg\" alt=\"A platter of assorted Tongan stews and other Polynesian dishes.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1608\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-800x643.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-1020x820.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-160x129.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-768x617.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-1536x1235.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-1920x1544.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A mixed platter from Tokemoana. The Tongan food business is one of several Pacific Island eateries that will be featured at the South Pacific Food Fest night market in East Palo Alto. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tokemoana Foods)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These days the Bay Area is awash with so many \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13963258/bay-area-night-markets-food-fall-guide-2024\">night markets\u003c/a>, it’s possible for a hardcore street food lover to hit one up almost every single weekend. But the latest market to touch down on the Peninsula is almost certainly the only one where hungry visitors can feast on Fijian meat pies, Tongan teriyaki-braised turkey tails and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DAwQyYUyxYK/?hl=en\">watermelon ’otai\u003c/a>, \u003ci>and \u003c/i>Hawaiian barbecue plate lunches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/southpacificfoodfest/?hl=en\">South Pacific Food Fest\u003c/a> is the Bay Area’s only night market dedicated exclusively to Pacific Island culture and cuisine. The annual event’s second edition takes place this Saturday, Oct. 12, at \u003ca href=\"https://www.university-circle.com/\">University Circle\u003c/a> in East Palo Alto.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13963258,arts_13911062']The night market is the brainchild of Fusi Taaga (of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tokemoanafoods/?hl=en\">Tokemoana Foods\u003c/a>) and Angelina Hurrell, both of whom have spent years selling their island dishes at food events all over Northern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Taaga tells it, many Pacific Island food vendors are no stranger to the Bay Area festival circuit, but they’re often relegated to supporting actor status at big events (like, say, \u003ca href=\"https://sfoutsidelands.com/food-and-drink/taste-of-the-bay-area/\">Outside Lands\u003c/a>) where food isn’t the main focus. And while the Bay is home to plenty of large-scale AAPI food festivals, the reality is that these tend to be heavy on the “AA” and relatively light on the “PI,” with maybe only one or two vendors at the most representing all of the different islands in the South Pacific.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966381\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966381\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor.jpg\" alt=\"A vendor selling traditional woven crafts at a Pacific Islander festival.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1377\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-800x551.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-1020x702.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-768x529.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-1536x1058.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-1920x1322.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A crafts vendor at last year’s inaugural South Pacific Food Fest. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tokemoana Foods)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“In a lot of those spaces, the actual representation from Pacific Islanders is very minimal,” Taaga says. “It’s not really anyone’s fault.” So, she and Hurrell decided to create a space of their own — a festival where Polynesian/Pacific Islander cuisine would be front and center.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In short, Taaga says, “We wanted to create an event where Pacific Islanders do feel like it’s about them and this community.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The night market aspect was mostly just to accommodate working people’s schedules and help create an atmosphere — with art, music and other cultural performances — where folks would want to stay and hang out for a while, instead of just grabbing a meal on the run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year’s South Pacific Food Fest will feature 16 food vendors, culled from over 60 applications—an outpouring of interest that speaks to the abundance of island food here in the Bay Area. In fact, the local Pacific Islander food scene’s robustness may come as a surprise to those outside of the community: Apart from the ubiquity of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13911062/hawaiian-barbecue-bay-area-multicultural-oakland-ilava\">Hawaiian barbecue restaurants\u003c/a> across the region, many of these businesses are food trucks, pop-ups and catering operations. Often, they don’t have a brick-and-mortar presence and haven’t gotten a ton of press coverage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966377\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966377\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie.jpg\" alt=\"Fijian meat pie cut open so that the meaty cross section is visible.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-1229x1536.jpg 1229w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-1638x2048.jpg 1638w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-1920x2400.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Fijian mince and cheese pie from Bula Pies Fiji. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Bula Pies Fiji)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What Taaga and Hurrell hope, then, is that the night market will help showcase the tremendous diversity of Pacific Island cuisine. Saturday’s food lineup will include flaky-crusted Fijian-style minced beef pies and smoked brisket pies from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bula.pies.fiji/?hl=en\">Bula Pies Fiji\u003c/a> and lamb curry from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fijianbbq/\">Fijian BBQ\u003c/a>. Tokemoana, whose brick-and-mortar restaurant in San Mateo closed last year, will sell Tongan braised turkey tails and feke (octopus in cream sauce). And the chef for \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DA2RsuwPIfn/\">Saia’s Spot in East Palo Alto\u003c/a> — perhaps the Bay Area’s first Tongan restaurant whose heyday was during the early 2000s — is coming out of retirement to serve lu kapapulu, a Polynesian staple made with taro leaves and corned beef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, other Pacific Islander–owned businesses will serve dishes not typically associated with the South Pacific — like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DAokxVUyJ2c/\">hibachi\u003c/a> plates and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DAhqJo7vZ6E/\">Cajun seafood boil\u003c/a>, prepared with an island twist. Dessert options will include \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DAzWk1OSmO0/?hl=en\">Dole whip\u003c/a> and the Samoan cinnamon cake known as puligi. And yes, there will be plenty of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/its_poly_bbq_/\">Hawaiian barbecue\u003c/a> too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966379\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966379\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl.jpg\" alt=\"Braised turkey tails over rice in a small pot.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1126\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-1536x865.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-1920x1081.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Braised turkey tails over rice — a Tongan specialty courtesy of Tokemoana. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tokemoana Foods)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Taaga recalls that when she first opened her diner-like San Mateo restaurant, so many American customers came and ordered things like teriyaki cheeseburgers and banana macadamia nut pancakes — in other words, dishes that aren’t really Tongan foods at all. But then they would see, and become curious about, the more traditional dishes on the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She hopes the South Pacific Food Fest can function in a similar way. The event will, first and foremost, be an opportunity for the local Pacific Island community to come together. But she also hopes those outside of the community will come, perhaps drawn in by the promise of poke bowls and Hawaiian barbecue. And once they’re there? Hopefully, Taaga says, they’ll also try some of the lesser-known foods on offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s an opportunity for these businesses to showcase their food and their culture to the outside world,” Taaga says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/south-pacific-food-fest-tickets-1039309180737?aff=oddtdtcreator\">\u003ci>South Pacific Food Fest\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will take place on Saturday, Oct. 12, from 4–10 p.m. at University Circle in East Palo Alto. Admission is free.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966376\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966376\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2.jpg\" alt=\"A platter of assorted Tongan stews and other Polynesian dishes.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1608\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-800x643.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-1020x820.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-160x129.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-768x617.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-1536x1235.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tomemoanas-poly-plate2-1920x1544.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A mixed platter from Tokemoana. The Tongan food business is one of several Pacific Island eateries that will be featured at the South Pacific Food Fest night market in East Palo Alto. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tokemoana Foods)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These days the Bay Area is awash with so many \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13963258/bay-area-night-markets-food-fall-guide-2024\">night markets\u003c/a>, it’s possible for a hardcore street food lover to hit one up almost every single weekend. But the latest market to touch down on the Peninsula is almost certainly the only one where hungry visitors can feast on Fijian meat pies, Tongan teriyaki-braised turkey tails and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DAwQyYUyxYK/?hl=en\">watermelon ’otai\u003c/a>, \u003ci>and \u003c/i>Hawaiian barbecue plate lunches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/southpacificfoodfest/?hl=en\">South Pacific Food Fest\u003c/a> is the Bay Area’s only night market dedicated exclusively to Pacific Island culture and cuisine. The annual event’s second edition takes place this Saturday, Oct. 12, at \u003ca href=\"https://www.university-circle.com/\">University Circle\u003c/a> in East Palo Alto.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>The night market is the brainchild of Fusi Taaga (of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tokemoanafoods/?hl=en\">Tokemoana Foods\u003c/a>) and Angelina Hurrell, both of whom have spent years selling their island dishes at food events all over Northern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Taaga tells it, many Pacific Island food vendors are no stranger to the Bay Area festival circuit, but they’re often relegated to supporting actor status at big events (like, say, \u003ca href=\"https://sfoutsidelands.com/food-and-drink/taste-of-the-bay-area/\">Outside Lands\u003c/a>) where food isn’t the main focus. And while the Bay is home to plenty of large-scale AAPI food festivals, the reality is that these tend to be heavy on the “AA” and relatively light on the “PI,” with maybe only one or two vendors at the most representing all of the different islands in the South Pacific.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966381\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966381\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor.jpg\" alt=\"A vendor selling traditional woven crafts at a Pacific Islander festival.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1377\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-800x551.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-1020x702.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-768x529.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-1536x1058.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/south-pacific-food-fest-vendor-1920x1322.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A crafts vendor at last year’s inaugural South Pacific Food Fest. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tokemoana Foods)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“In a lot of those spaces, the actual representation from Pacific Islanders is very minimal,” Taaga says. “It’s not really anyone’s fault.” So, she and Hurrell decided to create a space of their own — a festival where Polynesian/Pacific Islander cuisine would be front and center.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In short, Taaga says, “We wanted to create an event where Pacific Islanders do feel like it’s about them and this community.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The night market aspect was mostly just to accommodate working people’s schedules and help create an atmosphere — with art, music and other cultural performances — where folks would want to stay and hang out for a while, instead of just grabbing a meal on the run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year’s South Pacific Food Fest will feature 16 food vendors, culled from over 60 applications—an outpouring of interest that speaks to the abundance of island food here in the Bay Area. In fact, the local Pacific Islander food scene’s robustness may come as a surprise to those outside of the community: Apart from the ubiquity of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13911062/hawaiian-barbecue-bay-area-multicultural-oakland-ilava\">Hawaiian barbecue restaurants\u003c/a> across the region, many of these businesses are food trucks, pop-ups and catering operations. Often, they don’t have a brick-and-mortar presence and haven’t gotten a ton of press coverage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966377\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966377\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie.jpg\" alt=\"Fijian meat pie cut open so that the meaty cross section is visible.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-1229x1536.jpg 1229w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-1638x2048.jpg 1638w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Bula-mince-n-cheese-pie-1920x2400.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Fijian mince and cheese pie from Bula Pies Fiji. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Bula Pies Fiji)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What Taaga and Hurrell hope, then, is that the night market will help showcase the tremendous diversity of Pacific Island cuisine. Saturday’s food lineup will include flaky-crusted Fijian-style minced beef pies and smoked brisket pies from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bula.pies.fiji/?hl=en\">Bula Pies Fiji\u003c/a> and lamb curry from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fijianbbq/\">Fijian BBQ\u003c/a>. Tokemoana, whose brick-and-mortar restaurant in San Mateo closed last year, will sell Tongan braised turkey tails and feke (octopus in cream sauce). And the chef for \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DA2RsuwPIfn/\">Saia’s Spot in East Palo Alto\u003c/a> — perhaps the Bay Area’s first Tongan restaurant whose heyday was during the early 2000s — is coming out of retirement to serve lu kapapulu, a Polynesian staple made with taro leaves and corned beef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, other Pacific Islander–owned businesses will serve dishes not typically associated with the South Pacific — like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DAokxVUyJ2c/\">hibachi\u003c/a> plates and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DAhqJo7vZ6E/\">Cajun seafood boil\u003c/a>, prepared with an island twist. Dessert options will include \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DAzWk1OSmO0/?hl=en\">Dole whip\u003c/a> and the Samoan cinnamon cake known as puligi. And yes, there will be plenty of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/its_poly_bbq_/\">Hawaiian barbecue\u003c/a> too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966379\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966379\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl.jpg\" alt=\"Braised turkey tails over rice in a small pot.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1126\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-1536x865.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Tokemoanas-turkey-tail-bowl-1920x1081.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Braised turkey tails over rice — a Tongan specialty courtesy of Tokemoana. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tokemoana Foods)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Taaga recalls that when she first opened her diner-like San Mateo restaurant, so many American customers came and ordered things like teriyaki cheeseburgers and banana macadamia nut pancakes — in other words, dishes that aren’t really Tongan foods at all. But then they would see, and become curious about, the more traditional dishes on the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She hopes the South Pacific Food Fest can function in a similar way. The event will, first and foremost, be an opportunity for the local Pacific Island community to come together. But she also hopes those outside of the community will come, perhaps drawn in by the promise of poke bowls and Hawaiian barbecue. And once they’re there? Hopefully, Taaga says, they’ll also try some of the lesser-known foods on offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s an opportunity for these businesses to showcase their food and their culture to the outside world,” Taaga says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/south-pacific-food-fest-tickets-1039309180737?aff=oddtdtcreator\">\u003ci>South Pacific Food Fest\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will take place on Saturday, Oct. 12, from 4–10 p.m. at University Circle in East Palo Alto. Admission is free.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>China’s northern Shanxi province is famous for its wheat-based cuisine, like the knife-shaved noodles that are the particular specialty of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/huangchengnoodles/\">Huangcheng Noodle House\u003c/a> in Oakland. But what does a Shanxier eat when he isn’t in the mood for pasta?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In those cases, says Huangcheng chef-owner Jimmy Huang, a plate of dumplings is often the go-to meal. Which is why the third-generation noodle maker decided to expand his family’s \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2022/10/17/23409456/kaokao-grill-berkeley-new-barbecue-restaurant\">burgeoning East Bay restaurant mini-empire\u003c/a> by opening \u003ca href=\"https://www.huangchengpotsticker.com/\">Huang Cheng Potsticker\u003c/a>, a food stall just down the hall from his \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2021/1/25/22245029/huangcheng-noodle-house-opening-photos-oakland-shanxi-knife-cut-noodles\">flagship noodle shop\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904416/old-oakland-block-party-international-food-swans-market\">Swan’s Market\u003c/a>. The new restaurant, which took over the old Dela Curo Curry/B-Dama spot, specializes in both boiled and pan-fried dumplings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Huang, whose toothsome, pleasingly ruffle-edged noodles have built a cult following, says he always wanted to serve potstickers but never had the space at the noodle house. So he jumped at the opportunity to open a standalone dumpling shop. The menu is short and sweet: For now, there are only two types of dumplings, pork or shrimp, both available either boiled or pan-fried. As with Huang’s noodles, the foundation of the dumplings is the handmade dough for the wrappers, which is made from scratch in house. The fillings are simple, based on traditional Shanxi recipes — mostly meat, with a bit of very finely minced Napa cabbage and ginger mixed in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966232\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966232\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread.jpg\" alt=\"A spread of dumplings on a wood table.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu is simple and concise: two kinds of dumplings, available either boiled or pan-fried. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13962284,arts_13937806']These are plump little dumplings that come 18 to an order — two-bite dumplings at the most, each one not much larger in size than a fortune cookie. When I visited over the weekend, I was impressed with the pliant, supple texture of the boiled dumplings’ wrappers. When pan-fried in potsticker form, the well-browned, crunchy bottoms were a fantastic counterpoint to the juicy, super savory pork filling. In a bit of interprovincial fusion, Huang — who grew up in Shanxi but also has family roots in Sichuan — serves the potstickers with a spicy, chili- and scallion-infused dipping sauce that’s tasty enough to drink on its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only problem with serving such cute little dumplings that are as delicious and light on the palate as they are? I felt like I could have eaten 100 of them. (You might consider ordering one more plate than you think you need.) The restaurant rounds out its concise menu with a refreshing cold cucumber appetizer and a chicken curry rice plate, which Huang makes with his own spice mix instead of a premade curry roux.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966237\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966237\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker.jpg\" alt=\"A potsticker, bitten so that its meaty filling is visible.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1375\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-1536x1056.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-1920x1320.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pork potstickers feature a savory filling and well-browned, crunchy bottoms. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Within China, Shanxi’s noodles and other wheat-based dishes are esteemed to be some of the best in the entire country. (One local source documented no fewer than \u003ca href=\"https://www.ft.com/content/86e7d353-27dc-4ce3-a60d-6304fc339571\">\u003ci>890\u003c/i> different “flour foods”\u003c/a> in the province.) In Huang’s view, all of these wheat-based foods, including the dumplings, are the kind of healthy, everyday dishes that make a person’s muscles stronger. In fact, he says matter-of-factly, a diet high in flour foods is why “Shanxi people are stronger than people from the south,” perhaps stoking the flames of China’s long-standing north-south rivalry. (The Guangdong rice-eating side of my family might take issue with this bit of northern folk wisdom, but I’ll grant that the chef’s past life as a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CmtBJSlOF4n/\">professional\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CBXe5xYBYPP/\">acrobat\u003c/a> lends a certain credibility to his muscle-making theories.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mostly, though, Huang just wants to introduce his American clientele to the flavors and textures of Shanxi cuisine. “I tell my customers I’m like a doctor for their appetite,” he says. “I open them up so that they can appreciate new tastes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.huangchengpotsticker.com/\">\u003ci>Huang Cheng Potsticker\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Monday 11 a.m.–3 p.m. and Tuesday–Saturday 11 a.m.–8 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Huang Cheng Potsticker is the newest restaurant to debut at Swan’s Market.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>China’s northern Shanxi province is famous for its wheat-based cuisine, like the knife-shaved noodles that are the particular specialty of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/huangchengnoodles/\">Huangcheng Noodle House\u003c/a> in Oakland. But what does a Shanxier eat when he isn’t in the mood for pasta?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In those cases, says Huangcheng chef-owner Jimmy Huang, a plate of dumplings is often the go-to meal. Which is why the third-generation noodle maker decided to expand his family’s \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2022/10/17/23409456/kaokao-grill-berkeley-new-barbecue-restaurant\">burgeoning East Bay restaurant mini-empire\u003c/a> by opening \u003ca href=\"https://www.huangchengpotsticker.com/\">Huang Cheng Potsticker\u003c/a>, a food stall just down the hall from his \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2021/1/25/22245029/huangcheng-noodle-house-opening-photos-oakland-shanxi-knife-cut-noodles\">flagship noodle shop\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904416/old-oakland-block-party-international-food-swans-market\">Swan’s Market\u003c/a>. The new restaurant, which took over the old Dela Curo Curry/B-Dama spot, specializes in both boiled and pan-fried dumplings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Huang, whose toothsome, pleasingly ruffle-edged noodles have built a cult following, says he always wanted to serve potstickers but never had the space at the noodle house. So he jumped at the opportunity to open a standalone dumpling shop. The menu is short and sweet: For now, there are only two types of dumplings, pork or shrimp, both available either boiled or pan-fried. As with Huang’s noodles, the foundation of the dumplings is the handmade dough for the wrappers, which is made from scratch in house. The fillings are simple, based on traditional Shanxi recipes — mostly meat, with a bit of very finely minced Napa cabbage and ginger mixed in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966232\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966232\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread.jpg\" alt=\"A spread of dumplings on a wood table.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/overhead-spread-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu is simple and concise: two kinds of dumplings, available either boiled or pan-fried. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>These are plump little dumplings that come 18 to an order — two-bite dumplings at the most, each one not much larger in size than a fortune cookie. When I visited over the weekend, I was impressed with the pliant, supple texture of the boiled dumplings’ wrappers. When pan-fried in potsticker form, the well-browned, crunchy bottoms were a fantastic counterpoint to the juicy, super savory pork filling. In a bit of interprovincial fusion, Huang — who grew up in Shanxi but also has family roots in Sichuan — serves the potstickers with a spicy, chili- and scallion-infused dipping sauce that’s tasty enough to drink on its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only problem with serving such cute little dumplings that are as delicious and light on the palate as they are? I felt like I could have eaten 100 of them. (You might consider ordering one more plate than you think you need.) The restaurant rounds out its concise menu with a refreshing cold cucumber appetizer and a chicken curry rice plate, which Huang makes with his own spice mix instead of a premade curry roux.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966237\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966237\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker.jpg\" alt=\"A potsticker, bitten so that its meaty filling is visible.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1375\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-1536x1056.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/bitten-potsticker-1920x1320.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pork potstickers feature a savory filling and well-browned, crunchy bottoms. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Within China, Shanxi’s noodles and other wheat-based dishes are esteemed to be some of the best in the entire country. (One local source documented no fewer than \u003ca href=\"https://www.ft.com/content/86e7d353-27dc-4ce3-a60d-6304fc339571\">\u003ci>890\u003c/i> different “flour foods”\u003c/a> in the province.) In Huang’s view, all of these wheat-based foods, including the dumplings, are the kind of healthy, everyday dishes that make a person’s muscles stronger. In fact, he says matter-of-factly, a diet high in flour foods is why “Shanxi people are stronger than people from the south,” perhaps stoking the flames of China’s long-standing north-south rivalry. (The Guangdong rice-eating side of my family might take issue with this bit of northern folk wisdom, but I’ll grant that the chef’s past life as a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CmtBJSlOF4n/\">professional\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CBXe5xYBYPP/\">acrobat\u003c/a> lends a certain credibility to his muscle-making theories.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mostly, though, Huang just wants to introduce his American clientele to the flavors and textures of Shanxi cuisine. “I tell my customers I’m like a doctor for their appetite,” he says. “I open them up so that they can appreciate new tastes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.huangchengpotsticker.com/\">\u003ci>Huang Cheng Potsticker\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Monday 11 a.m.–3 p.m. and Tuesday–Saturday 11 a.m.–8 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Food trucks tend to focus on meals that can be enjoyed on the go, so when I came across Shaddai, a new Guatemalan food truck in San Jose, I was shocked to see cooks walking steaming-hot bowls of pepián de gallina and caldo de res over to eager diners. More than that, the menu is huge — literally a banner as tall as the truck — and features hard-to-find specialties like chow mein tostadas and Guatemalan enchiladas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located in a bustling food truck park on the outskirts of downtown, Shaddai is the creation of Betxaida Lopez. Lopez and her family moved from the Guatemalan city of Tiquisate, Escuintla to San Jose when she was seven years old. As an adult, she started a housecleaning business with her mother, Irma Lopez. They often talked about opening a restaurant together but never expected the opportunity would come straight to their door.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My brother is a contractor,” Lopez explains. “A guy who hired him couldn’t pay cash, so he offered him the truck.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966136\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966136\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck.jpg\" alt='A food truck. The name on the logo reads, \"Shaddai Guatemalan Cuisine.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The truck is located in a food truck park just outside of downtown San Jose. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Although Lopez’s professional kitchen experience up until that point was limited to a few months at a local pizzeria, she jumped at the opportunity. In the months before the truck launched, she and her mother cooked side by side until Lopez felt she had mastered her mother’s repertoire of traditional recipes and techniques.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her hard work has paid off. The churrasco chapin at Shaddai feels like a plate you might be offered at a Lopez family barbecue. While it resembles the kind of carne asada plate you might find at other Latin American restaurants, the flavors and textures are distinctly Guatemalan. The grilled steak is loaded with chirmol, a charred tomato salsa; the black beans have been blended to a thick, pudding-like consistency; and the rice is speckled with peas and carrots. If you want the full family party experience, visit Shaddai on the weekends and sit under the gazebo adorned with string lights while brave diners sing Spanish oldies at the outdoor karaoke station and children play in the bounce house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966137\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966137\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin.jpg\" alt=\"A Styrofoam plate with salsa-covered steak, rice, puréed beans and a side of tortillas.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The churrasco chapin is a distinctly Guatemalan take on the typical carne asada plate. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I heard one customer exclaim, “¡A la gran puchica voz!” (essentially, “damn!”) just from reading a sticker on Shaddai’s window — a reflection, perhaps, of how excited locals are to have a Guatemalan food option close to home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Most of our customers are Guatemalan,” says Lopez. “There’s no food truck or restaurant that’s Guatemalan in San Jose. People tell us they would travel to San Francisco, but now it’s here.” (While there are a small handful of \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/antojitos-chapines-guatemala-and-mexican-food-san-jose\">Guatemalan-owned food businesses\u003c/a> in the area, none of them serve a full-fledged, exclusively Guatemalan menu like Shaddai’s.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since Shaddai is located in a parking lot packed with a variety of other food trucks, it also attracts a fair number of wandering customers unfamiliar with the cuisine. After all, it’s hard to walk past a menu promoting tostadas topped with chow mein and dry, salted cheese without doing a double-take. While that particular dish sounds like a strange, modern fusion, chow mein tostadas actually have roots in Guatemala’s Chinese immigrant community going back to the \u003ca href=\"http://web.archive.org/web/20130912105353/http://publicogt.com/2013/06/05/migraciaon-china-en-guatemala/\">early 1900s\u003c/a>. They remain a \u003ca href=\"https://lamag.com/news/essential-t-chow-mein-tostadas-at-guatemalteca-bakery-restaurant\">popular street food item\u003c/a> to this day. Another notable variation on tostadas is Shaddai’s garnachas: fresh tortilla chips topped with shredded beef along with the same salsa and curtido that accompany pupusas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966138\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966138\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada.jpg\" alt=\"A tostada topped with ground beef, pickled beets and a slice of hard-boiled egg.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Guatemala’s version of enchiladas consists of a tostada topped with ground beef, pickled beets and a slice of hard-boiled egg. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When Lopez mentioned that her favorite dish is enchiladas, I nodded along in agreement, thinking of the saucy fried tortillas my family enjoys each week. Then Lopez clarified, “It’s way different from Mexican enchiladas.” As it turns out, the Guatemalan version is made by tossing ground meat in tomato sauce and loading it onto a tostada with mayo, lettuce, pickled beets and slices of hard-boiled egg. Every bite is fresh, bright and savory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13923359,arts_13954112,arts_13925233']Some items like pepián de gallina, a chicken stew made with pumpkin seeds and sesame seeds, are only available on weekends when the truck is fully staffed. “Pepián is our signature dish in Guatemala,” says Lopez. “It’s like the mole for Mexico. We would love to have it every day, but it’s delicate.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s also always a surprise or two on the menu each weekend. In past weeks, Lopez has made frijol colorado con costillas, chiles rellenos, and an incredibly crisp version of fried chicken. I’ve tried almost everything. Among the weekend specials, one of my favorites is the rellenitos — plump, fried, sugar-coated ovals made from plantains and stuffed with sweet beans or manjar (a milk-based filling).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966140\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966140\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos.jpg\" alt=\"Sugar-coated rellenitos, a fried plantain pastry.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rellenitos, a sugar-coated dessert made with fried mashed plantains. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Each plate of food at Shaddai comes staked with a toothpick that proudly waves a Guatemalan flag. It’s a reflection of Lopez’s pride for her home country and excitement to share the cuisine with the South Bay. These days, she and her mother cook together on the truck six days a week — a fulfillment of the elder Lopez’s lifelong dream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“At a young age, my mom taught me to shoot for the stars,” Lopez says. “Little by little we’re getting there. It feels nice to say I’m a business owner.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/shaddai.cuisine/\">\u003ci>Shaddai Guatemalan Cuisine\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (1302 South 1st St., San Jose) is open Tuesday–Friday 11 a.m to 8 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Cash only.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966134\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966134\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez.jpg\" alt=\"Two women — the operators of the Shaddai food truck — pose for a portrait in front of the truck.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1373\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-800x549.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-1020x700.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-768x527.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-1536x1054.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-1920x1318.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Irma (lef) and Betxaida Lopez. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Shaddai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Food trucks tend to focus on meals that can be enjoyed on the go, so when I came across Shaddai, a new Guatemalan food truck in San Jose, I was shocked to see cooks walking steaming-hot bowls of pepián de gallina and caldo de res over to eager diners. More than that, the menu is huge — literally a banner as tall as the truck — and features hard-to-find specialties like chow mein tostadas and Guatemalan enchiladas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located in a bustling food truck park on the outskirts of downtown, Shaddai is the creation of Betxaida Lopez. Lopez and her family moved from the Guatemalan city of Tiquisate, Escuintla to San Jose when she was seven years old. As an adult, she started a housecleaning business with her mother, Irma Lopez. They often talked about opening a restaurant together but never expected the opportunity would come straight to their door.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My brother is a contractor,” Lopez explains. “A guy who hired him couldn’t pay cash, so he offered him the truck.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966136\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966136\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck.jpg\" alt='A food truck. The name on the logo reads, \"Shaddai Guatemalan Cuisine.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Truck-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The truck is located in a food truck park just outside of downtown San Jose. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Although Lopez’s professional kitchen experience up until that point was limited to a few months at a local pizzeria, she jumped at the opportunity. In the months before the truck launched, she and her mother cooked side by side until Lopez felt she had mastered her mother’s repertoire of traditional recipes and techniques.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her hard work has paid off. The churrasco chapin at Shaddai feels like a plate you might be offered at a Lopez family barbecue. While it resembles the kind of carne asada plate you might find at other Latin American restaurants, the flavors and textures are distinctly Guatemalan. The grilled steak is loaded with chirmol, a charred tomato salsa; the black beans have been blended to a thick, pudding-like consistency; and the rice is speckled with peas and carrots. If you want the full family party experience, visit Shaddai on the weekends and sit under the gazebo adorned with string lights while brave diners sing Spanish oldies at the outdoor karaoke station and children play in the bounce house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966137\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966137\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin.jpg\" alt=\"A Styrofoam plate with salsa-covered steak, rice, puréed beans and a side of tortillas.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Churrasco-Chapin-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The churrasco chapin is a distinctly Guatemalan take on the typical carne asada plate. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I heard one customer exclaim, “¡A la gran puchica voz!” (essentially, “damn!”) just from reading a sticker on Shaddai’s window — a reflection, perhaps, of how excited locals are to have a Guatemalan food option close to home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Most of our customers are Guatemalan,” says Lopez. “There’s no food truck or restaurant that’s Guatemalan in San Jose. People tell us they would travel to San Francisco, but now it’s here.” (While there are a small handful of \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/antojitos-chapines-guatemala-and-mexican-food-san-jose\">Guatemalan-owned food businesses\u003c/a> in the area, none of them serve a full-fledged, exclusively Guatemalan menu like Shaddai’s.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since Shaddai is located in a parking lot packed with a variety of other food trucks, it also attracts a fair number of wandering customers unfamiliar with the cuisine. After all, it’s hard to walk past a menu promoting tostadas topped with chow mein and dry, salted cheese without doing a double-take. While that particular dish sounds like a strange, modern fusion, chow mein tostadas actually have roots in Guatemala’s Chinese immigrant community going back to the \u003ca href=\"http://web.archive.org/web/20130912105353/http://publicogt.com/2013/06/05/migraciaon-china-en-guatemala/\">early 1900s\u003c/a>. They remain a \u003ca href=\"https://lamag.com/news/essential-t-chow-mein-tostadas-at-guatemalteca-bakery-restaurant\">popular street food item\u003c/a> to this day. Another notable variation on tostadas is Shaddai’s garnachas: fresh tortilla chips topped with shredded beef along with the same salsa and curtido that accompany pupusas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966138\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966138\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada.jpg\" alt=\"A tostada topped with ground beef, pickled beets and a slice of hard-boiled egg.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Enchilada-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Guatemala’s version of enchiladas consists of a tostada topped with ground beef, pickled beets and a slice of hard-boiled egg. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When Lopez mentioned that her favorite dish is enchiladas, I nodded along in agreement, thinking of the saucy fried tortillas my family enjoys each week. Then Lopez clarified, “It’s way different from Mexican enchiladas.” As it turns out, the Guatemalan version is made by tossing ground meat in tomato sauce and loading it onto a tostada with mayo, lettuce, pickled beets and slices of hard-boiled egg. Every bite is fresh, bright and savory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Some items like pepián de gallina, a chicken stew made with pumpkin seeds and sesame seeds, are only available on weekends when the truck is fully staffed. “Pepián is our signature dish in Guatemala,” says Lopez. “It’s like the mole for Mexico. We would love to have it every day, but it’s delicate.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s also always a surprise or two on the menu each weekend. In past weeks, Lopez has made frijol colorado con costillas, chiles rellenos, and an incredibly crisp version of fried chicken. I’ve tried almost everything. Among the weekend specials, one of my favorites is the rellenitos — plump, fried, sugar-coated ovals made from plantains and stuffed with sweet beans or manjar (a milk-based filling).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966140\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966140\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos.jpg\" alt=\"Sugar-coated rellenitos, a fried plantain pastry.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Rellenitos-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rellenitos, a sugar-coated dessert made with fried mashed plantains. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Each plate of food at Shaddai comes staked with a toothpick that proudly waves a Guatemalan flag. It’s a reflection of Lopez’s pride for her home country and excitement to share the cuisine with the South Bay. These days, she and her mother cook together on the truck six days a week — a fulfillment of the elder Lopez’s lifelong dream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“At a young age, my mom taught me to shoot for the stars,” Lopez says. “Little by little we’re getting there. It feels nice to say I’m a business owner.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/shaddai.cuisine/\">\u003ci>Shaddai Guatemalan Cuisine\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (1302 South 1st St., San Jose) is open Tuesday–Friday 11 a.m to 8 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Cash only.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13966134\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13966134\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez.jpg\" alt=\"Two women — the operators of the Shaddai food truck — pose for a portrait in front of the truck.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1373\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-800x549.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-1020x700.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-768x527.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-1536x1054.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/10/Irma-Left-and-Betxaida-Right-Lopez-1920x1318.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Irma (lef) and Betxaida Lopez. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Shaddai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"radiolab": {
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"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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"reveal": {
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.revealnews.org/episodes/",
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},
"rightnowish": {
"id": "rightnowish",
"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"science-friday": {
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