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"content": "\u003cp>Every year, on the first Sunday of November, tens of thousands of Sikh from across the U.S. and Canada travel to Yuba City for the largest gathering of their extended community in North America. It's the only public festival I've seen in this country where not a single piece of food is sold, yet I still managed to eat and drink for six hours straight. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food is offered free to all who come: Every single one of the 60,000 Sikh (give or take 20,000 in any given year) who take part in the festival, and the few hundred curious folk like me who show up for the food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Cauliflower pakoras fresh from the oil.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All along the side of the parade's path are stations of Sikh men and women rolling roti, frying pakoras, stirring curries, and cutting sweets. Everything served is vegetarian, to be as inclusive as possible. Friendly, young men offer fresh fruit, water, juice, and hot chai to all who walk by -- even the Christian evangelists with their placards and flyers.\u003cbr>\u003ci>A line of women roll fill bread with potatoes masala while a two-man team shares dipping and frying duty.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Men from the Punjab region of Northern India were among the earliest immigrants to the Pacific Northwest and then the Central and Imperial Valleys of California. Many of them were Sikh, and their hard work -- felling trees, laying rails, and laboring in fields and orchards -- helped build the West.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The November festival in Yuba City honors the Sikh scriptures, the Guru Granth Sahib, and the recitation of its words is central to the procession. Large, decorated semi-trucks help pull the priests and musicians through the crowded streets.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This Thursday, I'll be giving a presentation about the importance of the communal kitchen in the Sikh religion. There'll be lots more photos, including many archival ones, and we'll discuss how Asian Americans such as the Sikh navigated strict immigration and alien land laws to establish thriving farms in the Central Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\"Sikh Temples and Communal Meals: Religion, Politics and Potluck in California's Central Valley\"\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>Presented by Thy Tran\u003cbr>Thursday, October 11, 2007\u003cbr>5:15-6:45 pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.magnes.org/\">\u003cstrong>Magnes Museum\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>2911 Russell Street, Berkeley, CA\u003cbr>Contact: Erica J. Peters, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chonc.com\">\u003cstrong>Culinary Historians of Northern California\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>Phone: (650) 938-4936 \u003cbr>Email: e-peters-9@alumni.uchicago.edu \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The Indian karahi has the same lovely, generous shape as a Chinese wok.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The November festival in Yuba City honors the Sikh scriptures, the Guru Granth Sahib, and the recitation of its words is central to the procession. Large, decorated semi-trucks help pull the priests and musicians through the crowded streets.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This Thursday, I'll be giving a presentation about the importance of the communal kitchen in the Sikh religion. There'll be lots more photos, including many archival ones, and we'll discuss how Asian Americans such as the Sikh navigated strict immigration and alien land laws to establish thriving farms in the Central Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\"Sikh Temples and Communal Meals: Religion, Politics and Potluck in California's Central Valley\"\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>Presented by Thy Tran\u003cbr>Thursday, October 11, 2007\u003cbr>5:15-6:45 pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.magnes.org/\">\u003cstrong>Magnes Museum\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>2911 Russell Street, Berkeley, CA\u003cbr>Contact: Erica J. Peters, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chonc.com\">\u003cstrong>Culinary Historians of Northern California\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>Phone: (650) 938-4936 \u003cbr>Email: e-peters-9@alumni.uchicago.edu \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The Indian karahi has the same lovely, generous shape as a Chinese wok.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>A recent lunch with a caravan of hungry friends reminded me of the insurmountable difference between eating in America and eating in Vietnam. Even when the food is excellent, even with folks I love, even when the weather is as freaky hot as it's been this week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Expansive menus, with dishes numbering into the three digits, and the a la carte approach to dining in the West culminated again in an experience that's difficult for me to reconcile with Vietnamese food: every single person at the table was eating something completely different.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My bowl of noodles was wedged between a dish of curry on the left and grilled beef with rice paper on the right. Across from me were fried frog legs, and at the end of the table was a pile of pork chops. When such radically different dishes are slung onto a table, the spirit of the food itself is lost.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Restaurants in Vietnam tend to specialize in one, two, maybe three variations on a single dish. Everyone in the restaurant, let alone everyone at the table, is slurping soup or wrapping shrimp together. If different courses are served, they come family style, and everyone shares from the middle of the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for true family style, when the Tran clan gathers, we'll clear out the living room furniture, sit in a huge circle on the floor, and place multiple platters of the same dish to share in the middle. There's no such thing as a buffet for the cousins to pick and choose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then again...where would we be without American individuality? The freedom to choose, the freedom to express our inner desires, the freedom to break out of the circle, the freedom to be alone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clockwise around the table:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Banh hoi, delicate squares of rice noodles, define an entire class of dishes. Here, grilled beef rolls are the savory star.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duck soup with dried bamboo shoots is a hard-to-find treat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shredded duck meat tossed with cabbage falls into the goi category, special salads that start formal meals or accompany congee soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vietnamese \"gatorade\" made from salted plums and lime juice. An acquired taste for some but most definitely good for your body on the hottest days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chicken curry reveals the country's old ties with India and Thailand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hearty and spicy, bun bo hue highlights thick, round rice noodles, slices of pork, and chewy nuggets of pig's feet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plates of fresh herbs...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>...and fresh vegetables define a southern Vietnamese table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A generous platter of sweetly charred pork chops will feed someone for a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not quite the river prawns promised, but still rich with shrimp brains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fried frog legs, one of the restaurant's specialties, are the upscale version of buffalo wings. Lime and black pepper add zest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The soft, fresh tofu is fried to order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spring rolls the New-World way...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>...and the Old-World way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The line out front hints at the lunchtime wait at this very popular restaurant, an excellent place to compose a medley of Vietnamese dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vung Tau II Restaurant\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>1750 N Milpitas Blvd.\u003cbr>Milpitas, CA 95035\u003cbr>(408) 934-9327\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>A recent lunch with a caravan of hungry friends reminded me of the insurmountable difference between eating in America and eating in Vietnam. Even when the food is excellent, even with folks I love, even when the weather is as freaky hot as it's been this week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Expansive menus, with dishes numbering into the three digits, and the a la carte approach to dining in the West culminated again in an experience that's difficult for me to reconcile with Vietnamese food: every single person at the table was eating something completely different.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My bowl of noodles was wedged between a dish of curry on the left and grilled beef with rice paper on the right. Across from me were fried frog legs, and at the end of the table was a pile of pork chops. When such radically different dishes are slung onto a table, the spirit of the food itself is lost.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Restaurants in Vietnam tend to specialize in one, two, maybe three variations on a single dish. Everyone in the restaurant, let alone everyone at the table, is slurping soup or wrapping shrimp together. If different courses are served, they come family style, and everyone shares from the middle of the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for true family style, when the Tran clan gathers, we'll clear out the living room furniture, sit in a huge circle on the floor, and place multiple platters of the same dish to share in the middle. There's no such thing as a buffet for the cousins to pick and choose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then again...where would we be without American individuality? The freedom to choose, the freedom to express our inner desires, the freedom to break out of the circle, the freedom to be alone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clockwise around the table:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Banh hoi, delicate squares of rice noodles, define an entire class of dishes. Here, grilled beef rolls are the savory star.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duck soup with dried bamboo shoots is a hard-to-find treat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shredded duck meat tossed with cabbage falls into the goi category, special salads that start formal meals or accompany congee soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vietnamese \"gatorade\" made from salted plums and lime juice. An acquired taste for some but most definitely good for your body on the hottest days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chicken curry reveals the country's old ties with India and Thailand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hearty and spicy, bun bo hue highlights thick, round rice noodles, slices of pork, and chewy nuggets of pig's feet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plates of fresh herbs...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>...and fresh vegetables define a southern Vietnamese table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A generous platter of sweetly charred pork chops will feed someone for a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not quite the river prawns promised, but still rich with shrimp brains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fried frog legs, one of the restaurant's specialties, are the upscale version of buffalo wings. Lime and black pepper add zest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The soft, fresh tofu is fried to order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spring rolls the New-World way...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>...and the Old-World way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The line out front hints at the lunchtime wait at this very popular restaurant, an excellent place to compose a medley of Vietnamese dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vung Tau II Restaurant\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>1750 N Milpitas Blvd.\u003cbr>Milpitas, CA 95035\u003cbr>(408) 934-9327\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Communal Pot: Seafood and Soup among the San Juan Islands",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clams_islands.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Old friends and wedding parties and extended families have a way of creating memorable meals. Place them all in a gorgeous locale overflowing with fresh ingredients -- say the San Juan Islands on the Puget Sound during the last weeks of summer -- and even the simplest pot of soup becomes sublime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clams_tides.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were gathered on the northern shore of Guemes Island. A single ferry connects locals to the mainland, and the island's one store -- \u003ca href=\"http://www.guemesislandstore.com/\">\u003cstrong>Anderson's General Store\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> -- assures shoppers that: \"If we don't have it, we'll explain how you can get along without it.\" Guemes is a place where feeling the tides is a sixth sense, where the ebb and flow of water determines the success of work and the ease of play. Instead of a farmers market, there's a produce swap on Sunday mornings. The island's highest speed limit is 25 mph, and even at that, you could cross it from tip to tip in 10 leisurely minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clam_crabbing.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone who lives along the shore has a boat and a couple of crab traps. Lone buoys out on the water sport duct tape with names and phone numbers. I tried throwing out a couple of the traps to catch our dinner. Having written about the crab industry, I wasn't expecting it to be easy. But let's just say that if I had to catch my own food -- let alone make a living -- with a row boat and two heavy traps, I'd be a heck of a lot skinnier than I am now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clams_bucket.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately for us, a neighbor across the Sound stopped by and left a deep, wide bucket filled with freshly dug clams and sea water. It was waiting quietly on the beach for us. I tried to count, but stopped at 140.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bride's mother chipped in tomatoes from her garden. The groom's father offered fresh corn; the cobs and some salmon trimmings would make a rich, sweet stock. There were bottles of wine leftover from the wedding. Butter and garlic, fortunately, always magically appear in the company of food-lovers. A loaf of bread from the wedding reception was a bit stale, making it perfect for croutons, and our cabin offered up the last requirement: a big pot generous enough to hold all the food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No crabs, unfortunately. But where nature taketh away, she always giveth in return.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clams_stew.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Neighborly Clams with White Wedding Wine\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soak freshly-dug clams in cornmeal for a couple of hours to help them purge all their grit. Scrub and rinse them well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut off the kernels from whole corn (reserve them for making creamed corn or, even better, salmon and corn chowder for lunch the next day). If you have a sharp knife, cut the corn cobs in half or quarters. If you don't, ask one of the stronger wedding guests to break them in two. Boil them in a pot of water with any trimmings you may have: carrot, onion, celery, or just some salmon skin and belly flaps. Strain and reserve the broth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now the fun part: Melt some butter in a big pot. Add chopped onion and garlic and the precious last carrot; saute over a medium flame until softened. Stir in chopped tomatoes and as much of their juices as you can catch, stir a few times, and then pour in a quarter to a whole bottle of wine. Add that corn and salmon broth that you made earlier. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes to meld together all the flavors and emulsify the butter. Season with salt and pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring the broth back to a full boil. Add the clams and cover tightly. In about 10 minutes, give the clams a good stir and check for doneness. If you have a big batch, you'll probably need to continue cooking for another 5 to 10 minutes. If you like your clams on the rare side, take them out just as soon as they've all opened fully.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring the pot to the table along with all the bowls you can find in the cabin. Pass around toasted stale bread, more bottles of wine and stories of younger, greener days.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clams_islands.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Old friends and wedding parties and extended families have a way of creating memorable meals. Place them all in a gorgeous locale overflowing with fresh ingredients -- say the San Juan Islands on the Puget Sound during the last weeks of summer -- and even the simplest pot of soup becomes sublime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clams_tides.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were gathered on the northern shore of Guemes Island. A single ferry connects locals to the mainland, and the island's one store -- \u003ca href=\"http://www.guemesislandstore.com/\">\u003cstrong>Anderson's General Store\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> -- assures shoppers that: \"If we don't have it, we'll explain how you can get along without it.\" Guemes is a place where feeling the tides is a sixth sense, where the ebb and flow of water determines the success of work and the ease of play. Instead of a farmers market, there's a produce swap on Sunday mornings. The island's highest speed limit is 25 mph, and even at that, you could cross it from tip to tip in 10 leisurely minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clam_crabbing.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone who lives along the shore has a boat and a couple of crab traps. Lone buoys out on the water sport duct tape with names and phone numbers. I tried throwing out a couple of the traps to catch our dinner. Having written about the crab industry, I wasn't expecting it to be easy. But let's just say that if I had to catch my own food -- let alone make a living -- with a row boat and two heavy traps, I'd be a heck of a lot skinnier than I am now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clams_bucket.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately for us, a neighbor across the Sound stopped by and left a deep, wide bucket filled with freshly dug clams and sea water. It was waiting quietly on the beach for us. I tried to count, but stopped at 140.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bride's mother chipped in tomatoes from her garden. The groom's father offered fresh corn; the cobs and some salmon trimmings would make a rich, sweet stock. There were bottles of wine leftover from the wedding. Butter and garlic, fortunately, always magically appear in the company of food-lovers. A loaf of bread from the wedding reception was a bit stale, making it perfect for croutons, and our cabin offered up the last requirement: a big pot generous enough to hold all the food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No crabs, unfortunately. But where nature taketh away, she always giveth in return.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/clams_stew.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Neighborly Clams with White Wedding Wine\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soak freshly-dug clams in cornmeal for a couple of hours to help them purge all their grit. Scrub and rinse them well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut off the kernels from whole corn (reserve them for making creamed corn or, even better, salmon and corn chowder for lunch the next day). If you have a sharp knife, cut the corn cobs in half or quarters. If you don't, ask one of the stronger wedding guests to break them in two. Boil them in a pot of water with any trimmings you may have: carrot, onion, celery, or just some salmon skin and belly flaps. Strain and reserve the broth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now the fun part: Melt some butter in a big pot. Add chopped onion and garlic and the precious last carrot; saute over a medium flame until softened. Stir in chopped tomatoes and as much of their juices as you can catch, stir a few times, and then pour in a quarter to a whole bottle of wine. Add that corn and salmon broth that you made earlier. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes to meld together all the flavors and emulsify the butter. Season with salt and pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring the broth back to a full boil. Add the clams and cover tightly. In about 10 minutes, give the clams a good stir and check for doneness. If you have a big batch, you'll probably need to continue cooking for another 5 to 10 minutes. If you like your clams on the rare side, take them out just as soon as they've all opened fully.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring the pot to the table along with all the bowls you can find in the cabin. Pass around toasted stale bread, more bottles of wine and stories of younger, greener days.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Voodoo and the Top Pot: Doughnuts Galore",
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"content": "\u003cp>Two weeks of camping has a way of simplifying one's needs. Or, at least, it should. I must admit that I was rather taken with a supply run at \u003ca href=\"http://www.rei.com/seattle\">\u003cstrong>REI's flagship store\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in Seattle. Amazing what we can schlep along with us as essential gear, but gone are the days -- thank goodness! -- of wet wool, freeze-dried food and heavy tents. And remember the taste of water after sloshing around in one of those metal canteens?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was more than happy to wander back into civilization as we made our way home. If you're planning a trip yourself to the Pacific Northwest, here are two places worth visiting. I'll post more once I get back to San Francisco, but for now, a taste of my travels....\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>TOP POT DOUGHNUTS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's only natural that a city obsessive about its coffee would develop a gourmet doughnut chain. Top Pot Doughnut already has three shops scattered in Seattle, and a few more will likely pop up soon. Known for their sleek modern take on the donut stop, Top Pot is a place for lounging as much as dunking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their downtown location on 5th Avenue has a spacious mezzanine, outdoor seating and an onsite coffee roasting facility. You'll need to get there early in the day for a taste of their famous pumpkin doughnuts and their much-loved, fast-moving apple fritters. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Top Pot leans toward classic interpretations of cake and old-fashioned doughnuts. I ordered a dozen and managed to take two bites of every single one in the box. I loved the chocolate topped with raspberry icing and the old-fashioned frosted, but the good, ol' jelly doughnut sprinkled with powdered sugar won my heart. And yes, the apple fritter deserves all that fuss. Selling out of their \"hand-forged\" doughnuts isn't a hard thing to do when they taste as good as these.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.toppotdoughnuts.com/flash/\">\u003cstrong>Top Pot Doughnuts\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>2124 5th Avenue \u003cbr>Seattle, WA 98121 \u003cbr>(206) 728-1966\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>VOODOO DOUGHNUT\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just down the skid from my favorite bookstore in the world, \u003ca href=\"http://www.powells.com/\">\u003cstrong>Powell's \"City of Books\"\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in Portland, is my new favorite doughnut shop. If you're in the neighborhood of Burnside and 3rd Avenue, then be sure to stop in at Voodoo Doughnut for the pure glee and fun of it. Where else could you get a massive 10-inch, chocolate-covered Cock & Balls? Or a Captain Crunch Doughnut? Or the incredibly impressive Maple Bacon Bar? The decor is cheeky-grunge, the hours are 24/7, and the revolving donut display will hypnotize you with its colorful promises.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have time, you can get married in their wedding chapel or, like me, just settle for a soothing voodoo doll pierced through the belly with a pretzel stick. I can now assure you that biting off the head of your ex-boss is even more satisfying than sticking it with straight pins. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A special shout-out to their collection of vegan doughnuts. Honestly, the only vegan baked good I've ever recommended. As someone who's always trying to figure out how to slip an egg yolk and/or butter into my recipes, this is not a frivolous compliment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://voodoodoughnut.com/\">\u003cstrong>Voodoo Doughnut\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>22 SW 3rd Avenue\u003cbr>Portland, OR 97204\u003cbr>(503) 241-4704\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'll be back in San Francisco in a few days. It'd be great to hear from all of you about your own favorite local sources for dunkers and sinkers. Any suggestions?\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Two weeks of camping has a way of simplifying one's needs. Or, at least, it should. I must admit that I was rather taken with a supply run at \u003ca href=\"http://www.rei.com/seattle\">\u003cstrong>REI's flagship store\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in Seattle. Amazing what we can schlep along with us as essential gear, but gone are the days -- thank goodness! -- of wet wool, freeze-dried food and heavy tents. And remember the taste of water after sloshing around in one of those metal canteens?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was more than happy to wander back into civilization as we made our way home. If you're planning a trip yourself to the Pacific Northwest, here are two places worth visiting. I'll post more once I get back to San Francisco, but for now, a taste of my travels....\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>TOP POT DOUGHNUTS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's only natural that a city obsessive about its coffee would develop a gourmet doughnut chain. Top Pot Doughnut already has three shops scattered in Seattle, and a few more will likely pop up soon. Known for their sleek modern take on the donut stop, Top Pot is a place for lounging as much as dunking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their downtown location on 5th Avenue has a spacious mezzanine, outdoor seating and an onsite coffee roasting facility. You'll need to get there early in the day for a taste of their famous pumpkin doughnuts and their much-loved, fast-moving apple fritters. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Top Pot leans toward classic interpretations of cake and old-fashioned doughnuts. I ordered a dozen and managed to take two bites of every single one in the box. I loved the chocolate topped with raspberry icing and the old-fashioned frosted, but the good, ol' jelly doughnut sprinkled with powdered sugar won my heart. And yes, the apple fritter deserves all that fuss. Selling out of their \"hand-forged\" doughnuts isn't a hard thing to do when they taste as good as these.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.toppotdoughnuts.com/flash/\">\u003cstrong>Top Pot Doughnuts\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>2124 5th Avenue \u003cbr>Seattle, WA 98121 \u003cbr>(206) 728-1966\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>VOODOO DOUGHNUT\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just down the skid from my favorite bookstore in the world, \u003ca href=\"http://www.powells.com/\">\u003cstrong>Powell's \"City of Books\"\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in Portland, is my new favorite doughnut shop. If you're in the neighborhood of Burnside and 3rd Avenue, then be sure to stop in at Voodoo Doughnut for the pure glee and fun of it. Where else could you get a massive 10-inch, chocolate-covered Cock & Balls? Or a Captain Crunch Doughnut? Or the incredibly impressive Maple Bacon Bar? The decor is cheeky-grunge, the hours are 24/7, and the revolving donut display will hypnotize you with its colorful promises.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have time, you can get married in their wedding chapel or, like me, just settle for a soothing voodoo doll pierced through the belly with a pretzel stick. I can now assure you that biting off the head of your ex-boss is even more satisfying than sticking it with straight pins. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A special shout-out to their collection of vegan doughnuts. Honestly, the only vegan baked good I've ever recommended. As someone who's always trying to figure out how to slip an egg yolk and/or butter into my recipes, this is not a frivolous compliment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://voodoodoughnut.com/\">\u003cstrong>Voodoo Doughnut\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>22 SW 3rd Avenue\u003cbr>Portland, OR 97204\u003cbr>(503) 241-4704\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'll be back in San Francisco in a few days. It'd be great to hear from all of you about your own favorite local sources for dunkers and sinkers. Any suggestions?\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>This week I scored big. In addition to finishing off a pint of \u003ca href=\"http://biritecreamery.com/\">\u003cstrong>burnt caramel ice cream\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> I found a dusty but still strongly bound first edition of \u003ci>Laughter on the Hill\u003c/i>, a book about a young woman who moved to San Francisco alone in the winter of 1940. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>(Grandmothers, 1955. Courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://sfpl.org/news/onlineexhibits/shades/\">\u003cstrong>San Francisco Public Library\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For others who have adopted this city as their home, who have looked over the Bay and its bridges with awe, lived in a drafty dump of a flat that's very well stocked with wine, or danced in the streets with strangers, this memoir will also strike a chord. It reminded me of other books that capture a special, specific time in the City's history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a taste of San Francisco in years past...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.perseus.tufts.edu/cgi-bin/ptext?doc=Perseus%3Atext%3A2000.02.0085&layout=&loc=34\">\u003cstrong>Recollections of California: 1846-1881\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by General William T. Sherman\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>During the spring of 1848, as reports of gold began transforming the City, young William Tecumseh Sherman was still stationed under General Kearny in California. Later in his life, he remembered accompanying Governor Mason from San Francisco to Santa Cruz on one particularly difficult journey.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The house was of adobe, with a long range of adobe-huts occupied by semi-civilized Indians, who at that time did all the labor of a ranch, the herding and marking of cattle, breaking of horses, and cultivating the little patches of wheat and vegetables which constituted all the farming of that day. Every thing about the house looked deserted, and, seeing a small Indian boy leaning up against a post, I approached him and asked in Spanish, \"Where is the master?\" \"Gone to the Presidio\" (Monterey). \"Is anybody in the house?\" \"No.\" \"Is it locked up?\" \"Yes.\" \"Is no one about who can get in?\" \"No.\" \"Do you have any meat?\" \"No.\" \"Any flour or grain?\" \"No.\" \"Any chickens?\" \"No.\" \"Any eggs?\" \"No.\" \"What do you live on?\" \"\u003ci>Nada\u003c/i>\" (nothing). The utter indifference of this boy and the tone of his \u003ci>\"Nada\"\u003c/i> attracted the attention of Colonel Mason, who had been listening to our conversation, and who knew enough of Spanish to catch the meaning, and he exclaimed with some feeling, \"So we get \u003ci>nada\u003c/i> for breakfast.\" I felt mortified, for I had held out the prospect of a splendid breakfast of meat and \u003ci>tortillas\u003c/i> with rice, chicken, eggs, etc., at the ranch of my friend Jose Antonio, as a justification for taking the Governor, a man of sixty years of age, more than twenty miles at a full canter for his breakfast. But there was no help for it, and we accordingly went a short distance to a pond, where we unpacked our mules and made a slim breakfast on scraps of hard bread and a bone of pork that remained in our \u003ci>alforjas\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1419127640/kqedorg-20%22\">\u003cstrong>Joe Tilden's Recipes for Epicures\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Major Joseph Tilden (Sequoia Press, 1907)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Back when celery was a rare and refined delicacy, displaying its long green stalks in a crystal \u003ca href=\"http://historywired.si.edu/object.cfm?ID=372\">\u003cstrong>celery vase\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> was a mark of high society. The tenderest, palest stalks would appear in a creamy soup. This version comes from the kitchen of San Francisco's self-proclaimed Bohemian and epicurean, Joe Tilden.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Celery Soup\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Boil one small cupful of rice in three pints of milk, or two pints of milk and one of cream, until it is tender. Then rub it through a sieve and add one quart of veal stock, salt, cayenne, and three heads of celery (the white stalks only) which have been previously grated. Boil until the celery is tender.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000KRV3JK/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Laughter on the Hill: A San Francisco Interlude\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Margaret Parton (McGraw-Hill, 1945)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This slim volume recounts the quintessential San Francisco experience: the ripeness of youth, rebellion amidst soul-searching, parties with poets and much, much red wine. Before she became a reporter and correspondent for the \u003c/i>New York Herald Tribune\u003ci>, Parton lived for a year in a tiny, walk-up on Telegraph Hill.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was autumn now in San Francisco, and wine-making time on the Hill. As I walked down Union Street toward the streetcar I could smell the purple grapes hanging rich and heavy in the hidden arbors behind the bare white fronts of the Italian flats. Great wooden barrels, scoured for the wine to come, began to appear in front of every doorstep, and one day there was the stained old wine press starting its yearly journey from the houses at the top of the Hill down to the late harvesters at the bottom. Each day as I passed it would be moved a little farther down, its heady smell mingling with the warm air from the basement bakeries, the odors of Provolone, salami, and black olives from the dim Italian groceries, the acid reek of the dark, male-frequented alleys, the salt wind from the Pacific.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000OKQFFA/kqedorg-20%22\">\u003cstrong>This is San Francisco: A Classic Portrait of the City\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Robert O'Brien (Whittlesey House, 1948)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>For catching the City in its many moods, there's no better than Robert O'Brien's street-by-street study. He trained his eyes and ears onto the quirky characters who flocked to the \"City of Second Chances,\" and his book, recently reprinted, remains one of the best portraits we have of the City.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cross Broadway, and you leave behind the kingdom of \u003ci>chow mein\u003c/i> and \u003ci>jow won ton\u003c/i> and jasmine tea, and enter the realm of ravioli. The vowels you hear now are soft and liquid, and the music is something from \u003ci> La Tosca\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, a step from the corner of Grant Avenue and Broadway is a cafe called \"La Tosca.\" Scenes from the opera are painted on the walls; Caruso sings from the juke box, and you drink a \u003ci>cappuccino\u003c/i>, gray, like the robe of a capuchin monk, and made of chocolate that is laced with brandy or rum, and heated by steam forced through coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a world of round \u003ci>brovolette\u003c/i> cheeses hanging in store windows, and garlic sausage, and \u003ci>capretti\u003c/i> at Easter time. Of the lovely smells of baking bread coming from ovens beneath the sidewalk, of picturesque and brightly colored family washings on clotheslines strung high over narrow alleys, of flowers in window boxes and canaries singing. Of Tony's Shaving Parlor, and the Panama Canal Tagliarini and Noodle Factory and the Roma Macaroni Factory. Of steep lanes on the side of Telegraph Hill, and fat Italian housewives leaning on the their window sills and laughing in the sunshine, and wiry Italian boys playing ball in the street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1558217541/kqedorg-20%22\">\u003cstrong>The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Alice B. Toklas (Harper & Row, 1954)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>After settling comfortably for years in France, Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas returned to the U.S. for a lecture tour that stretched from New York to California. They weren't impressed with what they ate during much of their journey across the nation but were delighted at last to reach the West Coast. (I've been searching for the \u003c/i>tarte Chambord\u003ci> recipe for years, so if anyone knows how to make it, drop me a line!)\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In San Francisco, we indulged in gastronomic orgies--sand dabs \u003ci>meuniere\u003c/i>, rainbow trout in aspic, grilled soft-shell crabs, \u003ci>paupieres\u003c/i> of roast fillets of pork, \u003ca href=\"http://www.vintagerecipes.net/books/manywaysforcookingeggs/eggs_rossini.php\">\u003cstrong>eggs Rossini\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and \u003ci>tarte Chambord\u003c/i>. The \u003ci>tarte Chambord\u003c/i> had been a specialty of one of the three great French bakers before the San Francisco fire. To my surprise in Paris no one had ever heard of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Fisherman's Wharf we waited for two enormous crabs to be cooked in a cauldron on the side-walk, and they were still quite warm when we ate them at lunch in Napa Country. \u003ca href=\"http://www.online-literature.com/gertrude-atherton/\">\u003cstrong>Gertrude Atherton\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> took us to lunch at a restaurant were the menu consisted entirely of the most perfectly cooked shell-fish, to her club where the cooking was incredibly good, and to dinner at a club of writers where conversation excelled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393084221/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The Silent Traveler in San Francisco\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Chiang Yee (W.W. Norton, 1964)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This is one in a long series of books written and illustrated by Yee as he explored cities throughout Europe and the U.S.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The crab-sellers of San Francisco's Fishermen's Wharf offer a sharp contrast to my mind from the lobster-seller in Bar Harbor and all the coastal towns of the State of Maine. There every lobster is kept alive as long as possible and there is no sign of any being cooked on the spot. It is the general belief that a lobster should be eaten straight after being cooked, for it tastes best then. Does not this belief extend to crabs? Or perhaps crabs cannot live out of the sea for long? The most puzzling point for me is that \u003ci>Crabdom\u003c/i> seems to lie in the bottom of the Pacific around the west coast covering San Francisco while \u003ci>Lobsterdom\u003c/i> (if any) is in that part of the Atlantic covering the New England States. The Chinese proverb \"Pai wen pu yu yi chien\" or \"Hearing (about a thing) a hundred times is not better than seeing it once\" proves true. Had I not been in both places I should not have realised the existence of these separate kingdoms. Crabdom and Lobsterdom!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eating a whole freshly-cooked lobster or crab, though some small forks are usually provided, involves some action with the fingers from time to time, which in turns involves \"table manners.\" This brings to my mind many little problems concerning Chinese eating manners....We Chinese have two definite styles of eating: formal eating and eating for pleasure. At a banquet it is all formality and good manners; at other times we just enjoy ourselves, and then there is no question of etiquette. That is why some of the typically Chinese restaurants in San Francisco have a number of partitioned rooms, unlike the modern fashionable restaurant with many tables neatly arranged all together. Within these partitions, one can enjoy a meal with one's friends, and eat as unconventionally as one likes without being criticized. Unfortunately this kind of typical Chinese restaurant with partitioned rooms is beginning to disappear even in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>This week I scored big. In addition to finishing off a pint of \u003ca href=\"http://biritecreamery.com/\">\u003cstrong>burnt caramel ice cream\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> I found a dusty but still strongly bound first edition of \u003ci>Laughter on the Hill\u003c/i>, a book about a young woman who moved to San Francisco alone in the winter of 1940. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>(Grandmothers, 1955. Courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://sfpl.org/news/onlineexhibits/shades/\">\u003cstrong>San Francisco Public Library\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For others who have adopted this city as their home, who have looked over the Bay and its bridges with awe, lived in a drafty dump of a flat that's very well stocked with wine, or danced in the streets with strangers, this memoir will also strike a chord. It reminded me of other books that capture a special, specific time in the City's history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a taste of San Francisco in years past...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.perseus.tufts.edu/cgi-bin/ptext?doc=Perseus%3Atext%3A2000.02.0085&layout=&loc=34\">\u003cstrong>Recollections of California: 1846-1881\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by General William T. Sherman\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>During the spring of 1848, as reports of gold began transforming the City, young William Tecumseh Sherman was still stationed under General Kearny in California. Later in his life, he remembered accompanying Governor Mason from San Francisco to Santa Cruz on one particularly difficult journey.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The house was of adobe, with a long range of adobe-huts occupied by semi-civilized Indians, who at that time did all the labor of a ranch, the herding and marking of cattle, breaking of horses, and cultivating the little patches of wheat and vegetables which constituted all the farming of that day. Every thing about the house looked deserted, and, seeing a small Indian boy leaning up against a post, I approached him and asked in Spanish, \"Where is the master?\" \"Gone to the Presidio\" (Monterey). \"Is anybody in the house?\" \"No.\" \"Is it locked up?\" \"Yes.\" \"Is no one about who can get in?\" \"No.\" \"Do you have any meat?\" \"No.\" \"Any flour or grain?\" \"No.\" \"Any chickens?\" \"No.\" \"Any eggs?\" \"No.\" \"What do you live on?\" \"\u003ci>Nada\u003c/i>\" (nothing). The utter indifference of this boy and the tone of his \u003ci>\"Nada\"\u003c/i> attracted the attention of Colonel Mason, who had been listening to our conversation, and who knew enough of Spanish to catch the meaning, and he exclaimed with some feeling, \"So we get \u003ci>nada\u003c/i> for breakfast.\" I felt mortified, for I had held out the prospect of a splendid breakfast of meat and \u003ci>tortillas\u003c/i> with rice, chicken, eggs, etc., at the ranch of my friend Jose Antonio, as a justification for taking the Governor, a man of sixty years of age, more than twenty miles at a full canter for his breakfast. But there was no help for it, and we accordingly went a short distance to a pond, where we unpacked our mules and made a slim breakfast on scraps of hard bread and a bone of pork that remained in our \u003ci>alforjas\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1419127640/kqedorg-20%22\">\u003cstrong>Joe Tilden's Recipes for Epicures\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Major Joseph Tilden (Sequoia Press, 1907)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Back when celery was a rare and refined delicacy, displaying its long green stalks in a crystal \u003ca href=\"http://historywired.si.edu/object.cfm?ID=372\">\u003cstrong>celery vase\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> was a mark of high society. The tenderest, palest stalks would appear in a creamy soup. This version comes from the kitchen of San Francisco's self-proclaimed Bohemian and epicurean, Joe Tilden.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Celery Soup\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Boil one small cupful of rice in three pints of milk, or two pints of milk and one of cream, until it is tender. Then rub it through a sieve and add one quart of veal stock, salt, cayenne, and three heads of celery (the white stalks only) which have been previously grated. Boil until the celery is tender.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000KRV3JK/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Laughter on the Hill: A San Francisco Interlude\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Margaret Parton (McGraw-Hill, 1945)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This slim volume recounts the quintessential San Francisco experience: the ripeness of youth, rebellion amidst soul-searching, parties with poets and much, much red wine. Before she became a reporter and correspondent for the \u003c/i>New York Herald Tribune\u003ci>, Parton lived for a year in a tiny, walk-up on Telegraph Hill.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was autumn now in San Francisco, and wine-making time on the Hill. As I walked down Union Street toward the streetcar I could smell the purple grapes hanging rich and heavy in the hidden arbors behind the bare white fronts of the Italian flats. Great wooden barrels, scoured for the wine to come, began to appear in front of every doorstep, and one day there was the stained old wine press starting its yearly journey from the houses at the top of the Hill down to the late harvesters at the bottom. Each day as I passed it would be moved a little farther down, its heady smell mingling with the warm air from the basement bakeries, the odors of Provolone, salami, and black olives from the dim Italian groceries, the acid reek of the dark, male-frequented alleys, the salt wind from the Pacific.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000OKQFFA/kqedorg-20%22\">\u003cstrong>This is San Francisco: A Classic Portrait of the City\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Robert O'Brien (Whittlesey House, 1948)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>For catching the City in its many moods, there's no better than Robert O'Brien's street-by-street study. He trained his eyes and ears onto the quirky characters who flocked to the \"City of Second Chances,\" and his book, recently reprinted, remains one of the best portraits we have of the City.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cross Broadway, and you leave behind the kingdom of \u003ci>chow mein\u003c/i> and \u003ci>jow won ton\u003c/i> and jasmine tea, and enter the realm of ravioli. The vowels you hear now are soft and liquid, and the music is something from \u003ci> La Tosca\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, a step from the corner of Grant Avenue and Broadway is a cafe called \"La Tosca.\" Scenes from the opera are painted on the walls; Caruso sings from the juke box, and you drink a \u003ci>cappuccino\u003c/i>, gray, like the robe of a capuchin monk, and made of chocolate that is laced with brandy or rum, and heated by steam forced through coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a world of round \u003ci>brovolette\u003c/i> cheeses hanging in store windows, and garlic sausage, and \u003ci>capretti\u003c/i> at Easter time. Of the lovely smells of baking bread coming from ovens beneath the sidewalk, of picturesque and brightly colored family washings on clotheslines strung high over narrow alleys, of flowers in window boxes and canaries singing. Of Tony's Shaving Parlor, and the Panama Canal Tagliarini and Noodle Factory and the Roma Macaroni Factory. Of steep lanes on the side of Telegraph Hill, and fat Italian housewives leaning on the their window sills and laughing in the sunshine, and wiry Italian boys playing ball in the street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1558217541/kqedorg-20%22\">\u003cstrong>The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Alice B. Toklas (Harper & Row, 1954)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>After settling comfortably for years in France, Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas returned to the U.S. for a lecture tour that stretched from New York to California. They weren't impressed with what they ate during much of their journey across the nation but were delighted at last to reach the West Coast. (I've been searching for the \u003c/i>tarte Chambord\u003ci> recipe for years, so if anyone knows how to make it, drop me a line!)\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In San Francisco, we indulged in gastronomic orgies--sand dabs \u003ci>meuniere\u003c/i>, rainbow trout in aspic, grilled soft-shell crabs, \u003ci>paupieres\u003c/i> of roast fillets of pork, \u003ca href=\"http://www.vintagerecipes.net/books/manywaysforcookingeggs/eggs_rossini.php\">\u003cstrong>eggs Rossini\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and \u003ci>tarte Chambord\u003c/i>. The \u003ci>tarte Chambord\u003c/i> had been a specialty of one of the three great French bakers before the San Francisco fire. To my surprise in Paris no one had ever heard of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Fisherman's Wharf we waited for two enormous crabs to be cooked in a cauldron on the side-walk, and they were still quite warm when we ate them at lunch in Napa Country. \u003ca href=\"http://www.online-literature.com/gertrude-atherton/\">\u003cstrong>Gertrude Atherton\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> took us to lunch at a restaurant were the menu consisted entirely of the most perfectly cooked shell-fish, to her club where the cooking was incredibly good, and to dinner at a club of writers where conversation excelled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393084221/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The Silent Traveler in San Francisco\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Chiang Yee (W.W. Norton, 1964)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This is one in a long series of books written and illustrated by Yee as he explored cities throughout Europe and the U.S.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The crab-sellers of San Francisco's Fishermen's Wharf offer a sharp contrast to my mind from the lobster-seller in Bar Harbor and all the coastal towns of the State of Maine. There every lobster is kept alive as long as possible and there is no sign of any being cooked on the spot. It is the general belief that a lobster should be eaten straight after being cooked, for it tastes best then. Does not this belief extend to crabs? Or perhaps crabs cannot live out of the sea for long? The most puzzling point for me is that \u003ci>Crabdom\u003c/i> seems to lie in the bottom of the Pacific around the west coast covering San Francisco while \u003ci>Lobsterdom\u003c/i> (if any) is in that part of the Atlantic covering the New England States. The Chinese proverb \"Pai wen pu yu yi chien\" or \"Hearing (about a thing) a hundred times is not better than seeing it once\" proves true. Had I not been in both places I should not have realised the existence of these separate kingdoms. Crabdom and Lobsterdom!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eating a whole freshly-cooked lobster or crab, though some small forks are usually provided, involves some action with the fingers from time to time, which in turns involves \"table manners.\" This brings to my mind many little problems concerning Chinese eating manners....We Chinese have two definite styles of eating: formal eating and eating for pleasure. At a banquet it is all formality and good manners; at other times we just enjoy ourselves, and then there is no question of etiquette. That is why some of the typically Chinese restaurants in San Francisco have a number of partitioned rooms, unlike the modern fashionable restaurant with many tables neatly arranged all together. Within these partitions, one can enjoy a meal with one's friends, and eat as unconventionally as one likes without being criticized. Unfortunately this kind of typical Chinese restaurant with partitioned rooms is beginning to disappear even in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_chives.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pot of chives was waiting for me in Moraga. Little did I know there was an entire afternoon of wonder in store for me when I went to pick it up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With just his hands, a shovel and a wheelbarrow, 79-year old Ze'ev Vered has shaped seven terraces of gardens and orchards. Trees bearing pistachio, quince and pomegranate push up against the golden hills. A 6-foot cyclone fence that encircles his garden, to deter the insistent deer, has long been covered with the rambling vines of eight different varieties of grapes. The paths between each hand-weeded bed switch back several times, a steep trail that leads from one beautiful, delicious plant to another.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_bench.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raised on an Israeli farm and then trained in forestry, Vered landed four decades ago in the Bay Area. He settled into insurance work to help raise his family, but much of his free time was spent building up his garden and cooking -- he handled all the savory food while his wife took care of the sweets. When he retired, Vered finally launched a business that expressed his passion: Herb Gardens by Ze'ev. He specializes in culinary herbs, helping his customers grow unique gardens that reflect their favorite cuisines, from my little chive pot to complex, professionally tended installations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_pots.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vered treated me to a lunch: Salad Caprese with his own sun-warmed tomatoes and a lovely barley soup made from the herb-stuffed carcass of a spit-roasted turkey. After I'd had enough to eat, he walked me slowly through his garden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are some highlights from my amazing tour, sprinkled lightly with Vered's salty jokes and stories:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_soil.jpg\">\u003cbr>After many years, Vered has perfected his own secret blend of soil. For example, powdered dolomite lime sweetens the mix to provide the basic pH that culinary herbs prefer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_emptypots.jpg\">\u003cbr>Whenever his wife and he traveled to Mexico, they'd bring back a few pots. If you find one you like, he'll sell it to you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_squirrelcage.jpg\">\u003cbr>Vered sequesters his newly potted plants inside wire cages for a week to protect them from squirrels, who love to dig up the plants. His plants all have well-established root systems, and as soon as you get your herb pot home, you can begin harvesting and cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At one of his lectures, a skeptic kept asking Vered, \"Are you sure that your plants are organic?\" He answered patiently until the third time, when he couldn't help adding, \"Yes, these plants are organic. And not only that, they're orgasmic -- I get a real charge out of growing them!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_mints.jpg\">\u003cbr>Welcoming visitors at the entrance to his herb garden are pots of low-spreading, tiny-leafed Corsican mint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_corsicanmint.jpg\">\u003cbr>The herb invites you to caress its velvety surface and then imbues your hand with its fresh, summery perfume. Someday, I'm going to have a garden path with Corsican mint growing in the cracks between stones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_peppermint.jpg\">\u003cbr>The leaves of this slightly bronzed peppermint has a sharp flavor that lingers long. I could feel its menthol in my sinuses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_spearmint.jpg\">\u003cbr>Spearmint has a softer, rounder flavor. Growing in this large patch is what Vered calls \"Safeway mint.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A much-lauded celebrity chef, who will here remain nameless, needed fresh mint for his cooking show. Vered gets a call from the chef's assistant. \"What kind of mint does he need?\" Vered asks, referring to the many varieties he grows. A pause on the phone. \"You know, the Safeway kind.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_sages.jpg\">\u003cbr>Three sages hold court along his retaining wall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_caperberries.jpg\">\u003cbr>For the first time, I came face to face with a fresh caper. If you don't pick and pickle the small bud, it opens into a beautiful white and pink-tinged blossom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_caperbush.jpg\">\u003cbr>Recently planted caper bushes that Vered hopes will soon cascade down part of his hillside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_horshradish.jpg\">\u003cbr>Enough horseradish to feed a small village. Vered likes using its leaves in salads before pulling up their roots and bottling his own sauces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_laurel.jpg\">\u003cbr>Mediterranean bay, known as true laurel, has a sweeter, less harsh flavor than California bay. Here, small plants spring up from a potted tree's crown roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_terraces.jpg\">\u003cbr>Tomatoes grow two levels down from his fruit and nut trees. Asked if he shares his fruits and vegetables with his neighbors, Vered says \"Back when they used to be nice to me!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_quinces.jpg\">\u003cbr>Golden quince with their soft, delicate fuzz.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the top of one hill, just past the plum and pistachio trees, Vered placed a bench in the shade of grape vines. He can sit and gaze across the valley. I asked him if he sat here with his wife, while she was still alive, and he smiled mischievously. \"Oh yes...and sometimes we held hands.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_pistachio.jpg\">\u003cbr>Pistachio nuts just beginning to blush.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_pomegranate.jpg\">\u003cbr>Over the next several months, this tiny bud will flower, fruit and ripen into a juicy pomegranate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_asianpear.jpg\">\u003cbr>Vered grows a rare variety of Asian pear, the only sand pear that resembles its European cousin in shape.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vered picked some tomatoes and plums for me to take home, and then asked if I wanted to taste some of his green tomato pickles. Uh, yes, I LOVE green tomato pickles!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_pickles.jpg\">\u003cbr>The tiny, still green cherry tomatoes are tart, a nice pick-me-up after the hot afternoon sun. They're preserved in his own special brine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To a colleague who asks for the recipe to his kosher dill pickles: \"Well, first you cut the tip off each little cucumber....\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Herb Gardens by Ze'ev\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>Ze'ev Vered, M.S.\u003cbr>\u003cdel>(510) 631-0199\u003c/del> (925)631-0199\u003cbr>P.O. Box 6486\u003cbr>Moraga, CA 94570\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_chives.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pot of chives was waiting for me in Moraga. Little did I know there was an entire afternoon of wonder in store for me when I went to pick it up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With just his hands, a shovel and a wheelbarrow, 79-year old Ze'ev Vered has shaped seven terraces of gardens and orchards. Trees bearing pistachio, quince and pomegranate push up against the golden hills. A 6-foot cyclone fence that encircles his garden, to deter the insistent deer, has long been covered with the rambling vines of eight different varieties of grapes. The paths between each hand-weeded bed switch back several times, a steep trail that leads from one beautiful, delicious plant to another.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_bench.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raised on an Israeli farm and then trained in forestry, Vered landed four decades ago in the Bay Area. He settled into insurance work to help raise his family, but much of his free time was spent building up his garden and cooking -- he handled all the savory food while his wife took care of the sweets. When he retired, Vered finally launched a business that expressed his passion: Herb Gardens by Ze'ev. He specializes in culinary herbs, helping his customers grow unique gardens that reflect their favorite cuisines, from my little chive pot to complex, professionally tended installations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_pots.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vered treated me to a lunch: Salad Caprese with his own sun-warmed tomatoes and a lovely barley soup made from the herb-stuffed carcass of a spit-roasted turkey. After I'd had enough to eat, he walked me slowly through his garden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are some highlights from my amazing tour, sprinkled lightly with Vered's salty jokes and stories:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_soil.jpg\">\u003cbr>After many years, Vered has perfected his own secret blend of soil. For example, powdered dolomite lime sweetens the mix to provide the basic pH that culinary herbs prefer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_emptypots.jpg\">\u003cbr>Whenever his wife and he traveled to Mexico, they'd bring back a few pots. If you find one you like, he'll sell it to you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_squirrelcage.jpg\">\u003cbr>Vered sequesters his newly potted plants inside wire cages for a week to protect them from squirrels, who love to dig up the plants. His plants all have well-established root systems, and as soon as you get your herb pot home, you can begin harvesting and cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At one of his lectures, a skeptic kept asking Vered, \"Are you sure that your plants are organic?\" He answered patiently until the third time, when he couldn't help adding, \"Yes, these plants are organic. And not only that, they're orgasmic -- I get a real charge out of growing them!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_mints.jpg\">\u003cbr>Welcoming visitors at the entrance to his herb garden are pots of low-spreading, tiny-leafed Corsican mint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_corsicanmint.jpg\">\u003cbr>The herb invites you to caress its velvety surface and then imbues your hand with its fresh, summery perfume. Someday, I'm going to have a garden path with Corsican mint growing in the cracks between stones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_peppermint.jpg\">\u003cbr>The leaves of this slightly bronzed peppermint has a sharp flavor that lingers long. I could feel its menthol in my sinuses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_spearmint.jpg\">\u003cbr>Spearmint has a softer, rounder flavor. Growing in this large patch is what Vered calls \"Safeway mint.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A much-lauded celebrity chef, who will here remain nameless, needed fresh mint for his cooking show. Vered gets a call from the chef's assistant. \"What kind of mint does he need?\" Vered asks, referring to the many varieties he grows. A pause on the phone. \"You know, the Safeway kind.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_sages.jpg\">\u003cbr>Three sages hold court along his retaining wall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_caperberries.jpg\">\u003cbr>For the first time, I came face to face with a fresh caper. If you don't pick and pickle the small bud, it opens into a beautiful white and pink-tinged blossom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_caperbush.jpg\">\u003cbr>Recently planted caper bushes that Vered hopes will soon cascade down part of his hillside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_horshradish.jpg\">\u003cbr>Enough horseradish to feed a small village. Vered likes using its leaves in salads before pulling up their roots and bottling his own sauces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_laurel.jpg\">\u003cbr>Mediterranean bay, known as true laurel, has a sweeter, less harsh flavor than California bay. Here, small plants spring up from a potted tree's crown roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_terraces.jpg\">\u003cbr>Tomatoes grow two levels down from his fruit and nut trees. Asked if he shares his fruits and vegetables with his neighbors, Vered says \"Back when they used to be nice to me!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_quinces.jpg\">\u003cbr>Golden quince with their soft, delicate fuzz.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the top of one hill, just past the plum and pistachio trees, Vered placed a bench in the shade of grape vines. He can sit and gaze across the valley. I asked him if he sat here with his wife, while she was still alive, and he smiled mischievously. \"Oh yes...and sometimes we held hands.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_pistachio.jpg\">\u003cbr>Pistachio nuts just beginning to blush.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_pomegranate.jpg\">\u003cbr>Over the next several months, this tiny bud will flower, fruit and ripen into a juicy pomegranate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_asianpear.jpg\">\u003cbr>Vered grows a rare variety of Asian pear, the only sand pear that resembles its European cousin in shape.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vered picked some tomatoes and plums for me to take home, and then asked if I wanted to taste some of his green tomato pickles. Uh, yes, I LOVE green tomato pickles!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/vered_pickles.jpg\">\u003cbr>The tiny, still green cherry tomatoes are tart, a nice pick-me-up after the hot afternoon sun. They're preserved in his own special brine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To a colleague who asks for the recipe to his kosher dill pickles: \"Well, first you cut the tip off each little cucumber....\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Herb Gardens by Ze'ev\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>Ze'ev Vered, M.S.\u003cbr>\u003cdel>(510) 631-0199\u003c/del> (925)631-0199\u003cbr>P.O. Box 6486\u003cbr>Moraga, CA 94570\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>My first summer in San Francisco, I bought a little Weber and installed it on my fire escape. Within two minutes of lighting its inaugural pile of charcoal, I answered my doorbell to find an irate neighbor pointing at the flames and reminding me that all the houses in our neighborhood were constructed of wood. My poor Smokey Joe was instantly retired. Since then, I've explored various safer ways to char my food and finally, after quite a few years, settled on a system that actually works.After dismissing stovetop options, such as grill pans and an aluminum rack on legs that I dug up in the back aisle of \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/RavsFlQTMjnPpfr68Ycthw\">\u003cstrong>Soko Hardware\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, I finally cobbled together a simple setup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had a gas stove from the 80s with a broiler drawer at the bottom. (It was pristine the first time I opened it; the previous inhabitants hadn't used it once!) Unfortunately, I could never get enough heat to sear and finish food with that unique texture and flavor that comes from the direct heat of a hot, dry flame. Everything steamed and soaked in its own juices, and my food always left a mess that was a pain to scrub away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two things changed that:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1) Replacing the wimpy grill pan that came with the stove. I bought the biggest, heaviest searing grill that I could find. The ones that stretch across two burners and have a grease well are perfect. I splurged on a \u003ca href=\"http://ww1.dacor.com/products/product_page.asp?ID=searing_grill\">\u003cstrong>Dacor searing grill\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, but there are plenty others that will work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2) Following \u003ca href=\"http://www.lckitchen.com/\">\u003cstrong>Linda Carucci's advice\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and keeping the door of the broiler open an inch or so. This helps the steam escape to maintain dry heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you can see from the photo, even whole fish grills up crisp and clean. It's essential to preheat the searing grill until smoking hot. The first few times you use it, be sure to brush it lightly with peanut or grapeseed oil (you'll need the high-smoke point!). As the grill becomes seasoned though, the oil in the marinades and moist rubs is enough to lift food off easily. I can now confidently follow summer recipes throughout the year while keeping my fire escape free of flames.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the other half of grilling fish in the city, here's a quick primer on buying the freshest fish possible...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>FINDING A FISHMONGER\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Visit a quality fishmonger. New May Wah on Clement and 8th Ave, Bryan's on California St., Shogun Fish at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, Berkeley Bowl, \u003ca href=\"http://www.99ranch.com/StoreLocator.asp\">\u003cstrong>99 Ranch\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and Whole Foods are a few of the places I'd recommend, but the best thing to do is look for a good store near you and then cultivate a relationship with the folks behind the counter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ask friendly questions, such as their advice about the freshest fish of the day, how it was caught and how they like to prepare it. After a few visits, you'll figure out if they know what they're talking about. Best of all, you'll become one of those favorite regulars who receive the best of the counter. Any quality vendor appreciates curious customers who are looking for good products. (Be prepared for brusque service at the Asian fish counters, though. I hate to admit it, but customer service isn't their forte. Super-fresh fish for the fearless, on the other hand, they have covered.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you walk into a new place, look for lots of ice for the whole fish and metal trays for the fillets and steaks. Needless to say, you should immediately leave any place that smells of rotten fish. A wall of tanks filled with lively fish swimming in clear, bubbling water is at the top of my own list, since I often point at the exact fish I want netted. Little signs that indicate origin and the method of catching are helpful for those who are trying to eat within \u003ca href=\"http://www.mbayaq.org/cr/seafoodwatch.asp\">\u003cstrong>a sustainable seafood system.\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SELECTING FISH\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On whole fish, don't be afraid to lift the gills to check for red blood. Avoid any fish with dry, browned gills. Then press your forefinger into the thickest part of the fish's flank to watch its flesh spring back out, quick and firm. Wet, moist tail and fins are good; dry, brittle ones are bad. Clear, shiny, rounded eyes are another good indicator of fresh fish, although sometimes the ice can damage them, so it shouldn't be the only thing on your list. Sniff for an odor of ocean. It's okay to get a noseful of \"pier perfume,\" but there should be no hint of decay or any strong \"fishiness\" that reveals too many days out of the water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're buying fillets, the touch and smell tests are the best. Even cut flesh will spring back. You shouldn't be able to see a depression where your finger was. The longer your fingerprint lingers, the older the fish. Sliminess is another sure sign that you should move on to the next fish or choose chicken for dinner. Whole fish will have a natural shine and slipperiness -- the scales dull and loosen as the fish ages out of water -- but cut flesh should not feel slick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the fish is protected behind glass cases, I make a point of asking the person helping me to poke the fish for me or to bring it out so I can perform my own touch and sniff tests. No, I don't mind people behind me sighing, rolling their eyes or muttering under their breaths.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes, though, the best fish is in the freezer. A fish that's expertly frozen within hours of leaving its watery home is much, much better in quality than a so-called fresh fish that's taken almost a week to get from boat to market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After going through all that trouble tracking down and identifying a good fish, don't bother waiting a couple of days to cook it. Plan on buying, cooking and eating your fish the same day or, at the most, within a day of finding it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>PREPARING WHOLE FISH FOR THE GRILL OR BROILER\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are some tips for handling whole fish:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're not comfortable gutting and scaling a whole fish (that's another whole entry in itself...) then make it easy on yourself and ask the fishmonger to clean the fish for you. What you want is simply a dressed fish: gutted and scaled but with its head, fins and tail intact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get back home quickly, or plan to bring a cooler or insulated bag with you. I often ask the fishmonger to put the fish, after weighing it, into another bag with some ice. No market has ever refused to do this, and they may have a ice pack or two that they're happy to pass along.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you unwrap the fish in your own kitchen, take care with the tail and fins. They sometimes have sharp ends that can poke or cut your hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With any fish that's more than two inches thick, cut three slits at an angle into each side of the fish to allow the heat to penetrate to the center. I like to fill the belly cavity with aromatics -- say scallions and lemon slices or big handfuls of fennel fronds -- in order to maintain its rounded shape at the table. A few toothpicks soaked in water will keep the belly flaps together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's an old trick for creating a \"nonstick\" grill rack: Cut a big, starchy potato in half. Stick the potato halves onto a big fork. Be sure the grill rack is clean and free of burnt food remains. Once the preheated grill rack is hot, rub it well with the cut side of the potato halves. The instantly seared layer of starch will create a surface which will release the fish more readily, especially if you have a brand-new, shiny grill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For every inch of thickness, allow ten minutes to cook the fish. It will vary slightly either way, but this is a good baseline for figuring out cooking times. Once the fish flakes easily close to the bone, it's ready for eating. I prefer undercooking to any amount of overcooking, but you should cook the fish to the point that you enjoy. With the variation in size and species, the best way to test for flake is with the tip of a paring knife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Use two wide spatulas to roll the fish gently when it's ready to turn. Be sure there are enough hot coals beneath the area where the second side will cook. Brush the fish lightly with oil before turning it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wrapping a fish in soaked banana leaves will make the fish easier to turn and remove. You'll lose that nice char but will gain a wonderful smoky flavor while retaining lots of moisture. Plan for a longer cooking time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have a pizza peel or one of those thin cookie sheets, especially one with \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/AirBake-WearEver-Natural-baking-Medium/dp/B000222C8O/ref=sr_1_6/104-8042839-0101506?ie=UTF8&s=kitchen&qid=1186942585&sr=1-6\">\u003cstrong>a tapered edge\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, then you can scoop up the whole fish with little effort. Otherwise, use those two wide spatulas and have the platter as close to the fish as possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SPICY GINGER-LEMONGRASS RUB\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a recipe that I've adapted from my uncles in Vietnam. Whenever I visited, they'd chop down a young banana tree to create an impromptu grill. Two logs of the juicy trunk supported split bamboo skewers, and everything from the family chicken to sweet field mice ended up coated with this spicy, savory rub.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/SUMEET-ASIA-KITCHEN-MACHINE-110V/dp/B000OY66XW\">\u003cstrong>an Indian-style mixie\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> which makes it a lot easier to blend the hard lemongrass with minimal liquid. If you have a regular blender, plan on chopping the ingredients more finely and then adding a bit more oil and/or wine to help the blades do their thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chop roughly:\u003cbr>\nA big knob of ginger, peeled\u003cbr>\nThe pale half of 4 stalks of lemon grass\u003cbr>\n3 large cloves of moist, plump garlic\u003cbr>\n2-4 red Thai chiles, seeded or not as you wish\u003cbr>\nA small knob of fresh turmeric (or a half teaspoon of powdered turmeric)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Have ready 3-4 tablespoons each:\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.chinesetakeaways.com/Ingredients/Shaoxing%20Rice%20Wine.htm\">\u003cstrong>Shaoxing rice wine\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> or dry sherry\u003cbr>\nVegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the aromatic, dry ingredients in the jar of a blender. Drizzle in 2 tablespoons of the rice wine and oil. Blend to a smooth paste, adding more liquid and scraping down as needed. Rub evenly onto fish, chicken, beef, pork or pressed tofu. Cover and let marinate in the refrigerator overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grill or broil the meat or tofu with high, direct heat, brushing lightly with additional oil.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>My first summer in San Francisco, I bought a little Weber and installed it on my fire escape. Within two minutes of lighting its inaugural pile of charcoal, I answered my doorbell to find an irate neighbor pointing at the flames and reminding me that all the houses in our neighborhood were constructed of wood. My poor Smokey Joe was instantly retired. Since then, I've explored various safer ways to char my food and finally, after quite a few years, settled on a system that actually works.After dismissing stovetop options, such as grill pans and an aluminum rack on legs that I dug up in the back aisle of \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/RavsFlQTMjnPpfr68Ycthw\">\u003cstrong>Soko Hardware\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, I finally cobbled together a simple setup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had a gas stove from the 80s with a broiler drawer at the bottom. (It was pristine the first time I opened it; the previous inhabitants hadn't used it once!) Unfortunately, I could never get enough heat to sear and finish food with that unique texture and flavor that comes from the direct heat of a hot, dry flame. Everything steamed and soaked in its own juices, and my food always left a mess that was a pain to scrub away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two things changed that:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1) Replacing the wimpy grill pan that came with the stove. I bought the biggest, heaviest searing grill that I could find. The ones that stretch across two burners and have a grease well are perfect. I splurged on a \u003ca href=\"http://ww1.dacor.com/products/product_page.asp?ID=searing_grill\">\u003cstrong>Dacor searing grill\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, but there are plenty others that will work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2) Following \u003ca href=\"http://www.lckitchen.com/\">\u003cstrong>Linda Carucci's advice\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and keeping the door of the broiler open an inch or so. This helps the steam escape to maintain dry heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you can see from the photo, even whole fish grills up crisp and clean. It's essential to preheat the searing grill until smoking hot. The first few times you use it, be sure to brush it lightly with peanut or grapeseed oil (you'll need the high-smoke point!). As the grill becomes seasoned though, the oil in the marinades and moist rubs is enough to lift food off easily. I can now confidently follow summer recipes throughout the year while keeping my fire escape free of flames.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the other half of grilling fish in the city, here's a quick primer on buying the freshest fish possible...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>FINDING A FISHMONGER\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Visit a quality fishmonger. New May Wah on Clement and 8th Ave, Bryan's on California St., Shogun Fish at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, Berkeley Bowl, \u003ca href=\"http://www.99ranch.com/StoreLocator.asp\">\u003cstrong>99 Ranch\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and Whole Foods are a few of the places I'd recommend, but the best thing to do is look for a good store near you and then cultivate a relationship with the folks behind the counter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ask friendly questions, such as their advice about the freshest fish of the day, how it was caught and how they like to prepare it. After a few visits, you'll figure out if they know what they're talking about. Best of all, you'll become one of those favorite regulars who receive the best of the counter. Any quality vendor appreciates curious customers who are looking for good products. (Be prepared for brusque service at the Asian fish counters, though. I hate to admit it, but customer service isn't their forte. Super-fresh fish for the fearless, on the other hand, they have covered.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you walk into a new place, look for lots of ice for the whole fish and metal trays for the fillets and steaks. Needless to say, you should immediately leave any place that smells of rotten fish. A wall of tanks filled with lively fish swimming in clear, bubbling water is at the top of my own list, since I often point at the exact fish I want netted. Little signs that indicate origin and the method of catching are helpful for those who are trying to eat within \u003ca href=\"http://www.mbayaq.org/cr/seafoodwatch.asp\">\u003cstrong>a sustainable seafood system.\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SELECTING FISH\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On whole fish, don't be afraid to lift the gills to check for red blood. Avoid any fish with dry, browned gills. Then press your forefinger into the thickest part of the fish's flank to watch its flesh spring back out, quick and firm. Wet, moist tail and fins are good; dry, brittle ones are bad. Clear, shiny, rounded eyes are another good indicator of fresh fish, although sometimes the ice can damage them, so it shouldn't be the only thing on your list. Sniff for an odor of ocean. It's okay to get a noseful of \"pier perfume,\" but there should be no hint of decay or any strong \"fishiness\" that reveals too many days out of the water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're buying fillets, the touch and smell tests are the best. Even cut flesh will spring back. You shouldn't be able to see a depression where your finger was. The longer your fingerprint lingers, the older the fish. Sliminess is another sure sign that you should move on to the next fish or choose chicken for dinner. Whole fish will have a natural shine and slipperiness -- the scales dull and loosen as the fish ages out of water -- but cut flesh should not feel slick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the fish is protected behind glass cases, I make a point of asking the person helping me to poke the fish for me or to bring it out so I can perform my own touch and sniff tests. No, I don't mind people behind me sighing, rolling their eyes or muttering under their breaths.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes, though, the best fish is in the freezer. A fish that's expertly frozen within hours of leaving its watery home is much, much better in quality than a so-called fresh fish that's taken almost a week to get from boat to market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After going through all that trouble tracking down and identifying a good fish, don't bother waiting a couple of days to cook it. Plan on buying, cooking and eating your fish the same day or, at the most, within a day of finding it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>PREPARING WHOLE FISH FOR THE GRILL OR BROILER\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are some tips for handling whole fish:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're not comfortable gutting and scaling a whole fish (that's another whole entry in itself...) then make it easy on yourself and ask the fishmonger to clean the fish for you. What you want is simply a dressed fish: gutted and scaled but with its head, fins and tail intact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get back home quickly, or plan to bring a cooler or insulated bag with you. I often ask the fishmonger to put the fish, after weighing it, into another bag with some ice. No market has ever refused to do this, and they may have a ice pack or two that they're happy to pass along.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you unwrap the fish in your own kitchen, take care with the tail and fins. They sometimes have sharp ends that can poke or cut your hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With any fish that's more than two inches thick, cut three slits at an angle into each side of the fish to allow the heat to penetrate to the center. I like to fill the belly cavity with aromatics -- say scallions and lemon slices or big handfuls of fennel fronds -- in order to maintain its rounded shape at the table. A few toothpicks soaked in water will keep the belly flaps together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's an old trick for creating a \"nonstick\" grill rack: Cut a big, starchy potato in half. Stick the potato halves onto a big fork. Be sure the grill rack is clean and free of burnt food remains. Once the preheated grill rack is hot, rub it well with the cut side of the potato halves. The instantly seared layer of starch will create a surface which will release the fish more readily, especially if you have a brand-new, shiny grill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For every inch of thickness, allow ten minutes to cook the fish. It will vary slightly either way, but this is a good baseline for figuring out cooking times. Once the fish flakes easily close to the bone, it's ready for eating. I prefer undercooking to any amount of overcooking, but you should cook the fish to the point that you enjoy. With the variation in size and species, the best way to test for flake is with the tip of a paring knife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Use two wide spatulas to roll the fish gently when it's ready to turn. Be sure there are enough hot coals beneath the area where the second side will cook. Brush the fish lightly with oil before turning it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wrapping a fish in soaked banana leaves will make the fish easier to turn and remove. You'll lose that nice char but will gain a wonderful smoky flavor while retaining lots of moisture. Plan for a longer cooking time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have a pizza peel or one of those thin cookie sheets, especially one with \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/AirBake-WearEver-Natural-baking-Medium/dp/B000222C8O/ref=sr_1_6/104-8042839-0101506?ie=UTF8&s=kitchen&qid=1186942585&sr=1-6\">\u003cstrong>a tapered edge\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, then you can scoop up the whole fish with little effort. Otherwise, use those two wide spatulas and have the platter as close to the fish as possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SPICY GINGER-LEMONGRASS RUB\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a recipe that I've adapted from my uncles in Vietnam. Whenever I visited, they'd chop down a young banana tree to create an impromptu grill. Two logs of the juicy trunk supported split bamboo skewers, and everything from the family chicken to sweet field mice ended up coated with this spicy, savory rub.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/SUMEET-ASIA-KITCHEN-MACHINE-110V/dp/B000OY66XW\">\u003cstrong>an Indian-style mixie\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> which makes it a lot easier to blend the hard lemongrass with minimal liquid. If you have a regular blender, plan on chopping the ingredients more finely and then adding a bit more oil and/or wine to help the blades do their thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chop roughly:\u003cbr>\nA big knob of ginger, peeled\u003cbr>\nThe pale half of 4 stalks of lemon grass\u003cbr>\n3 large cloves of moist, plump garlic\u003cbr>\n2-4 red Thai chiles, seeded or not as you wish\u003cbr>\nA small knob of fresh turmeric (or a half teaspoon of powdered turmeric)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Have ready 3-4 tablespoons each:\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.chinesetakeaways.com/Ingredients/Shaoxing%20Rice%20Wine.htm\">\u003cstrong>Shaoxing rice wine\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> or dry sherry\u003cbr>\nVegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the aromatic, dry ingredients in the jar of a blender. Drizzle in 2 tablespoons of the rice wine and oil. Blend to a smooth paste, adding more liquid and scraping down as needed. Rub evenly onto fish, chicken, beef, pork or pressed tofu. Cover and let marinate in the refrigerator overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>The work of \u003ca href=\"http://www.geocities.com/arthur_j_huang/index1.html\">\u003cstrong>Arthur Huang\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.artincontext.org/artist/artist_main.aspx?id=5585\">\u003cstrong>Mary V. Marsh\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, perfectly calibrated for this age of confessional eating and exhibitionist documentation, examines the minute rituals of food. Currently on exhibit at Mercury Twenty Gallery in Oakland, the two artists explore our culture of consumption, how we ingest ideas, relationships and expectations along with a few basic nutrients and our daily dose of caffeine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>2002 Diet as Periodic Table\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What do you get when you combine an MFA from RISD with a degree in biochemistry and molecular cell biology? If you throw in a healthy dose of OCD and lots of wall space, you wouldn't be surprised to find Arthur Huang's elaborate works of dietary classification. Using data-collecting systems of the scientific method, Huang recorded with painstaking detail what he eats for a year. The display of this information in ordered columns and rows, with their evocative colors shading obscure terminology, reveals beautiful patterns. His chart spans an entire wall. You can step back and take in the amazing human endeavor, or you can step close to study his precise data. He provides a helpful key so you can decipher the information in the table. I was delighted to see that Huang had included among his ten categories of food elements a few of my own favorite edibles: Salty Foods, Sweet Foods and Condiments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His periodic chart is part of an elegantly curated show, \"Inscribere,\" at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chandracerrito.com/ccc/\">\u003cstrong>Chandra Cerrito Contemporary\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, a gallery within the same complex as Mercury Twenty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Coffee Diary\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While coffee may have once built empires and fueled revolutions, for most of us, it merely jump starts another workday. Mary V. Marsh bracketed a year of her life and then used the 327 paper coffee cups she purchased to record details of the moment. From mundane routine to memorable events, buying and drinking coffee become interwoven with people, places, movement and repetition. Picking up various cups to read her Sharpie-scratched words, I learned that she ate a pumpkin scone on one day, rode her bike on another and stood in a long line the day when Pete's was down two employees. As I recount this for a food blog, I must admit the experience was both familiar and eerie. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The works of both Huang and Marsh reveal intimate connections within large-scale systems. Even as you wonder about the ways of science or calculate coffee dollars and carbon miles, you can't help but feel connected to the daily lives of two living, breathing, eating individuals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.mercurytwenty.com\">\u003cstrong>Mercury Twenty Gallery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>25 Grand Ave. (at Broadway)\u003cbr>Oakland, CA 94612\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gallery hours are Friday and Saturday, 11:00 am - 2:00 pm, or by appointment. There will be extended gallery hours on Saturdays, August 4, 11 & 25, 11:00 am - 4:00 pm in conjunction with the \u003ca href=\"http://unreadbookproject.blogspot.com/\">\u003cstrong>Unread Book Project Reading Room\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. For additional information, please contact \u003ca href=\"mailto:mercurytwenty@gmail.com\">mercurytwenty@gmail.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cp>During a discussion this past week about authenticity, someone asked me what I thought about Japanese restaurants run by Koreans, while another person asked my opinion about the Japanese government's desperate fight around the globe to save sushi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are lots of glib answers, but they all skip over some important issues about food and culture. I need to take another week to mull this over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the meantime...please enjoy...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"390\" height=\"321\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/0b75cl4-qRE\">\u003cparam name=\"wmode\" value=\"transparent\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/0b75cl4-qRE\" width=\"390\" height=\"321\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In case the YouTube logo gets in the way of the subtitles, here's \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bc6v8IUe_0g\">\u003cstrong>a link\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> to the video.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cp>Nothing evokes special occasions like a lobster with drawn butter, but there was once a time when they were considered poverty fare. Fed to orphans, prisoners and indentured servants, lobsters from the Northern Atlantic did not appeal to early colonists. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took the canning craze of the 1950s to spread the taste of lobster beyond New England, and since then, the red, beady-eyed crustaceans appear on casino buffets and surf-and-turf menus in every state. There's debate now about whether the lobster industry is the best it's ever been or on the verge of collapse, but Maine lobstermen are working closely with marine biologists to develop sustainable practices. It's the older, more labor-intensive, back-breaking ways of early lobstering that will save the industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working on a lobster boat for one hour -- let alone one day -- will silence anyone who complains about the price of lobster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lobster Lingo\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who weren't raised along the coast of Maine, here's a quick primer on lobsters:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Berries\u003c/strong> - Lobster eggs. Conscientious, law-abiding lobstermen will gently return a berried female back to the water after V-notching her tail, indicating to others that she's a valuable resource. Her 10,000 or so eggs, carried on the outside of her shell, will be released after 9 or 10 months, and of these, about 10 of them will survive. That's 1/10 of 1 percent who even have a whiff of a chance of reaching maturity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bugs\u003c/strong> - Newly hatched lobster larvae. More generally, an affectionate term for all lobsters, as in \"Come ovah for dinner tonight for some boiled bugs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chicken\u003c/strong> - A one-pound lobster. It can take as long as 7 years in the cold waters of the northern Atlantic to grow to this size.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hen\u003c/strong> - A female lobster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cock\u003c/strong> - A male lobster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Snappers\u003c/strong> - Young lobsters, for their tendency to flick their tails frequently\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pistol\u003c/strong> - A lobster without claws. During molting or fighting, they may lose one or both, but will regenerate them with time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pot\u003c/strong> - A lobster trap, especially in great Britain. Though now more commonly made of easy-to-maintain plastic rather than wood, it still attracts lobsters through a one-way entrance. Famously inefficient, they often allow lobsters to walk away after eating. With a stoic shrug of their shoulders, lobstermen accept this as a facet of Maine's de facto aquaculture, allowing younger ones to feed, escape and breed. In the photo (from Casco Bay) you can see the low-tech bricks that weigh the traps down in the water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kitchen\u003c/strong> - The first chamber of a lobster trap, where the bug goes to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Parlor\u003c/strong> - The inner chamber of a lobster trap. Also known as the bedroom, this is where the bug awaits the lobsterman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lobster cars\u003c/strong> - Crates that are kept buoyed and locked just off-shore to store trapped lobsters until they go to market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ghost fishing\u003c/strong> When lost nets, loose traps or fragments of other broken equipment continue to catch and kill marine life. Modern traps have escape vents constructed from biodegradable materials to allow lobsters to escape from lost traps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Keepers\u003c/strong> Lobsters that measure between 3.25 and 5 inches from their eye sockets to the tip of their tails, the legal limits for market. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shorts\u003c/strong> - Lobsters that fall below the legal size.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shedder\u003c/strong> - A newly molted lobster. It has absorbed sea water into its body, and there's extra space in its soft shell. If you've ever received a gush of water when cracking open a lobster, you probably have a shedder on your plate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crusher\u003c/strong> - The larger, stronger claw with courser teeth. If the lobster's right claw is the crusher, it's called a \"right-handed\" lobster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ripper\u003c/strong> - The smaller claw, which has finer teeth for cutting and tearing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\"From away\"\u003c/strong> - People like me who are not from Maine. Summer tourists. Well-meaning travelers and diners who triple town populations and clog up Highway 1 \u003ca href=\"http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/the-10-best-lobster-shacks-in-maine/?page=2\">\u003cstrong>in search of lobster\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where to eat lobster in the Bay Area\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In November of 1920, \u003ci>The Manufacturer and the Builder\u003c/i>--\"A monthly journal devoted to the Advancement and Diffusement of Practical Knowledge\"--reported that California received its first shipment of live lobsters from the East Coast. Layered in a crate with moist rock weed and then packed inside another, ice-lined crate, a little over half of the 600 lobsters survived the voyage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While overnight planes have sped up the trip considerably in this century, finding a good lobster isn't as easy as you'd think. For the most part, New Englanders stranded in Northern California simply waited between visits back east to enjoy fresh, plain crustaceans, free of wasabi-panko crust or truffle oil or even chipotle butter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who'd like a taste without boarding a plane, there's at least one place you can nurse your bug cravings. It's not quite the same as your favorite shack in Harpswell or Thomaston, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.oplobster.com/\">\u003cstrong>Old Port Lobster Shack\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in Redwood City boasts the closest thing to Down East eating in these parts. They have sister restaurants in North Beach and Napa, but it's the South Bay kitchen that serves up the better bugs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A bell near the register let's the kitchen know when to throw a lobster into the pot. Behind it you can see some of the draft beers from both the east and west coasts you can try: Sea Dog, Allagash, Old Thumper, Anchor Steam, Dead Guy, and Widmer Brothers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the sides are not particularly noteworthy (even the dried blueberries in the cole slaw weren't really that great) the OPLS serves lobsters whole and uncracked in all their glory. You could order the lazy version, but why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The true find are the lobster rolls, which come with the right bread (baked specially soft for the restaurant) and are packed full of handpicked meat. The \"naked\" version is the purist's choice; a tiny bit of melted butter and mayo arrive on the side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Old Port Lobster Shack\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Redwood City\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>851 Veterans Blvd \u003cbr>Redwood City, CA 94061\u003cbr>(650) 366-2400\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Napa Valley\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>806 Fourth Street\u003cbr> Napa, CA 94559\u003cbr>(707) 258.8200\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>North Beach\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>532 Green St \u003cbr>San Francisco, CA 94133\u003cbr>(415) 829-3634\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Nothing evokes special occasions like a lobster with drawn butter, but there was once a time when they were considered poverty fare. Fed to orphans, prisoners and indentured servants, lobsters from the Northern Atlantic did not appeal to early colonists. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took the canning craze of the 1950s to spread the taste of lobster beyond New England, and since then, the red, beady-eyed crustaceans appear on casino buffets and surf-and-turf menus in every state. There's debate now about whether the lobster industry is the best it's ever been or on the verge of collapse, but Maine lobstermen are working closely with marine biologists to develop sustainable practices. It's the older, more labor-intensive, back-breaking ways of early lobstering that will save the industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working on a lobster boat for one hour -- let alone one day -- will silence anyone who complains about the price of lobster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lobster Lingo\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who weren't raised along the coast of Maine, here's a quick primer on lobsters:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Berries\u003c/strong> - Lobster eggs. Conscientious, law-abiding lobstermen will gently return a berried female back to the water after V-notching her tail, indicating to others that she's a valuable resource. Her 10,000 or so eggs, carried on the outside of her shell, will be released after 9 or 10 months, and of these, about 10 of them will survive. That's 1/10 of 1 percent who even have a whiff of a chance of reaching maturity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bugs\u003c/strong> - Newly hatched lobster larvae. More generally, an affectionate term for all lobsters, as in \"Come ovah for dinner tonight for some boiled bugs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chicken\u003c/strong> - A one-pound lobster. It can take as long as 7 years in the cold waters of the northern Atlantic to grow to this size.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hen\u003c/strong> - A female lobster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cock\u003c/strong> - A male lobster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Snappers\u003c/strong> - Young lobsters, for their tendency to flick their tails frequently\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pistol\u003c/strong> - A lobster without claws. During molting or fighting, they may lose one or both, but will regenerate them with time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pot\u003c/strong> - A lobster trap, especially in great Britain. Though now more commonly made of easy-to-maintain plastic rather than wood, it still attracts lobsters through a one-way entrance. Famously inefficient, they often allow lobsters to walk away after eating. With a stoic shrug of their shoulders, lobstermen accept this as a facet of Maine's de facto aquaculture, allowing younger ones to feed, escape and breed. In the photo (from Casco Bay) you can see the low-tech bricks that weigh the traps down in the water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kitchen\u003c/strong> - The first chamber of a lobster trap, where the bug goes to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Parlor\u003c/strong> - The inner chamber of a lobster trap. Also known as the bedroom, this is where the bug awaits the lobsterman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lobster cars\u003c/strong> - Crates that are kept buoyed and locked just off-shore to store trapped lobsters until they go to market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ghost fishing\u003c/strong> When lost nets, loose traps or fragments of other broken equipment continue to catch and kill marine life. Modern traps have escape vents constructed from biodegradable materials to allow lobsters to escape from lost traps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Keepers\u003c/strong> Lobsters that measure between 3.25 and 5 inches from their eye sockets to the tip of their tails, the legal limits for market. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shorts\u003c/strong> - Lobsters that fall below the legal size.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shedder\u003c/strong> - A newly molted lobster. It has absorbed sea water into its body, and there's extra space in its soft shell. If you've ever received a gush of water when cracking open a lobster, you probably have a shedder on your plate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crusher\u003c/strong> - The larger, stronger claw with courser teeth. If the lobster's right claw is the crusher, it's called a \"right-handed\" lobster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ripper\u003c/strong> - The smaller claw, which has finer teeth for cutting and tearing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\"From away\"\u003c/strong> - People like me who are not from Maine. Summer tourists. Well-meaning travelers and diners who triple town populations and clog up Highway 1 \u003ca href=\"http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/the-10-best-lobster-shacks-in-maine/?page=2\">\u003cstrong>in search of lobster\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where to eat lobster in the Bay Area\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In November of 1920, \u003ci>The Manufacturer and the Builder\u003c/i>--\"A monthly journal devoted to the Advancement and Diffusement of Practical Knowledge\"--reported that California received its first shipment of live lobsters from the East Coast. Layered in a crate with moist rock weed and then packed inside another, ice-lined crate, a little over half of the 600 lobsters survived the voyage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While overnight planes have sped up the trip considerably in this century, finding a good lobster isn't as easy as you'd think. For the most part, New Englanders stranded in Northern California simply waited between visits back east to enjoy fresh, plain crustaceans, free of wasabi-panko crust or truffle oil or even chipotle butter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who'd like a taste without boarding a plane, there's at least one place you can nurse your bug cravings. It's not quite the same as your favorite shack in Harpswell or Thomaston, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.oplobster.com/\">\u003cstrong>Old Port Lobster Shack\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in Redwood City boasts the closest thing to Down East eating in these parts. They have sister restaurants in North Beach and Napa, but it's the South Bay kitchen that serves up the better bugs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A bell near the register let's the kitchen know when to throw a lobster into the pot. Behind it you can see some of the draft beers from both the east and west coasts you can try: Sea Dog, Allagash, Old Thumper, Anchor Steam, Dead Guy, and Widmer Brothers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the sides are not particularly noteworthy (even the dried blueberries in the cole slaw weren't really that great) the OPLS serves lobsters whole and uncracked in all their glory. You could order the lazy version, but why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The true find are the lobster rolls, which come with the right bread (baked specially soft for the restaurant) and are packed full of handpicked meat. The \"naked\" version is the purist's choice; a tiny bit of melted butter and mayo arrive on the side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Old Port Lobster Shack\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Redwood City\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>851 Veterans Blvd \u003cbr>Redwood City, CA 94061\u003cbr>(650) 366-2400\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Napa Valley\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>806 Fourth Street\u003cbr> Napa, CA 94559\u003cbr>(707) 258.8200\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>North Beach\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>532 Green St \u003cbr>San Francisco, CA 94133\u003cbr>(415) 829-3634\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Vermont: Maple Creemees and Common Crackers",
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"content": "\u003cp>Far from the golden hills of California, with endless lush stretches of forest and field, the Green Mountain State lives up to its name. My road trip continues, and this week I find myself heading toward the Northeast Kingdom. Along the way, near the shores of Lake Champlain, I've been enjoying two local treats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Faced with the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cleanair-coolplanet.org/information/saveoursyrup.php\">\u003cstrong>uncertain future of sugar maples\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, eating maple creemees whenever possible is an imperative. Sugar shacks dot the countryside, and if a sign and an arrow point the way to a creemee, I am there. Soft vanilla ice cream swirled with this year's maple syrup -- what better way to celebrate summer in Vermont?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're picky about such things as real ingredients (and you must be if you're reading this blog) then be sure to ask at the creemee stands if they use real maple syrup. If not, well...there's always another sugar shack further down the road.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the village of Barre, pronounced \"barry\" as I was gently reminded by a local, an especially memorable variation appears in the guise of a maple sundae. At the window of \u003ca href=\"http://www.central-vt.com/web/caesarsfare/\">\u003cstrong>Caesar's Fare\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, where a red siren light promises rescue from snack attacks, you can order two scoops of maple-walnut ice cream topped with maple syrup (Grade B = \"Better & Bolder\") and more walnuts. The bitterness of the nuts balances perfectly the sweetness of the syrup. Whipped cream and maraschino cherries complete the experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another local flavor comes from a metal tin. At the other end of the sensuality spectrum, dry and crisp \u003ca href=\"http://www.vermontcommonfoods.com/crackerhistory.html\">\u003cstrong>Common Crackers\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> have sustained generations of Vermonters. Round, puffy and neatly halved like a French macaron, they're the New England embodiment of pragmatism. Originally purchased annually by the barrel, these crackers served as breakfast when soaked in milk, lunch when nibbled with cheddar cheese, afternoon tea when spread with jam, or dinner when served with chowder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Common crackers are descendants of the long-lived, well-traveled \u003ca href=\"http://kenanderson.net/hardtack/\">\u003cstrong>hardtack\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> much-maligned by sailors and soldiers, and their close cousins include pilot crackers, water crackers, and sea biscuits. Recently revived by the Orton family, owners of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.vermontcountrystore.com/jump.jsp?itemID=0&itemType=HOME_PAGE\">\u003cstrong>Vermont Country Store\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, the crackers are still available 180 years after they were first cut and baked in Montpelier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been enjoying my mini-barrel of common crackers with shards of \u003ca href=\"http://www.graftonvillagecheese.com/making/index.html\">\u003cstrong>Grafton Village's six-year cheddar cheese\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in between my maple creemees. Who cares about crumbs in the car or lactose intolerance with the open road ahead?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stay tuned for an update next week from Maine. If all goes well, I'll be posting photos of freshly dug steamers and buttery lobsters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, please feel free to share coordinates for your favorite lobster shack along the Down East Coast!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Far from the golden hills of California, with endless lush stretches of forest and field, the Green Mountain State lives up to its name. My road trip continues, and this week I find myself heading toward the Northeast Kingdom. Along the way, near the shores of Lake Champlain, I've been enjoying two local treats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Faced with the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cleanair-coolplanet.org/information/saveoursyrup.php\">\u003cstrong>uncertain future of sugar maples\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, eating maple creemees whenever possible is an imperative. Sugar shacks dot the countryside, and if a sign and an arrow point the way to a creemee, I am there. Soft vanilla ice cream swirled with this year's maple syrup -- what better way to celebrate summer in Vermont?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're picky about such things as real ingredients (and you must be if you're reading this blog) then be sure to ask at the creemee stands if they use real maple syrup. If not, well...there's always another sugar shack further down the road.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the village of Barre, pronounced \"barry\" as I was gently reminded by a local, an especially memorable variation appears in the guise of a maple sundae. At the window of \u003ca href=\"http://www.central-vt.com/web/caesarsfare/\">\u003cstrong>Caesar's Fare\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, where a red siren light promises rescue from snack attacks, you can order two scoops of maple-walnut ice cream topped with maple syrup (Grade B = \"Better & Bolder\") and more walnuts. The bitterness of the nuts balances perfectly the sweetness of the syrup. Whipped cream and maraschino cherries complete the experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another local flavor comes from a metal tin. At the other end of the sensuality spectrum, dry and crisp \u003ca href=\"http://www.vermontcommonfoods.com/crackerhistory.html\">\u003cstrong>Common Crackers\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> have sustained generations of Vermonters. Round, puffy and neatly halved like a French macaron, they're the New England embodiment of pragmatism. Originally purchased annually by the barrel, these crackers served as breakfast when soaked in milk, lunch when nibbled with cheddar cheese, afternoon tea when spread with jam, or dinner when served with chowder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Common crackers are descendants of the long-lived, well-traveled \u003ca href=\"http://kenanderson.net/hardtack/\">\u003cstrong>hardtack\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> much-maligned by sailors and soldiers, and their close cousins include pilot crackers, water crackers, and sea biscuits. Recently revived by the Orton family, owners of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.vermontcountrystore.com/jump.jsp?itemID=0&itemType=HOME_PAGE\">\u003cstrong>Vermont Country Store\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, the crackers are still available 180 years after they were first cut and baked in Montpelier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been enjoying my mini-barrel of common crackers with shards of \u003ca href=\"http://www.graftonvillagecheese.com/making/index.html\">\u003cstrong>Grafton Village's six-year cheddar cheese\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in between my maple creemees. Who cares about crumbs in the car or lactose intolerance with the open road ahead?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stay tuned for an update next week from Maine. If all goes well, I'll be posting photos of freshly dug steamers and buttery lobsters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, please feel free to share coordinates for your favorite lobster shack along the Down East Coast!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"soldout": {
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