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"content": "\u003cp>Almost 15 years ago, at the beginning of my career, I worked at \u003ca href=\"http://www.restaurantlulu.com/\">Lulu (SF)\u003c/a>. Unbeknownst to my very naive self at the time, I would never work at another restaurant that would make all its own table bread. At Verbena (NYC), \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/03/culinary_school.html\">under the tutelage of Diane Forley\u003c/a>, the pastry department was responsible for a number of breads, especially on the weekends when we would produce gorgeous ficelle, brioche and any number of elegant quick breads for the toast cart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But no other kitchen would be like Lulu. With two stacks of bread ovens, a full time bread baker (who came in at 10 pm and left near 8 am) and custom designed wooden shelves to display and sell the massive pain de campagne (looking much like \u003ca href=\"http://www.poilane.fr/index.php?index_module=listings&index_theme=english&index_template=en_produit_bdd.php&product_id=1\">Poilane\u003c/a>'s signature loaf) Lulu's bread program was serious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0224.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So serious, an entire walk-in was devoted to the bread's \u003ca href=\"http://www.io.com/%7Esjohn/sour.htm\">starter\u003c/a>, loaf proofing, and our overstock of dairy. A separate refrigerated room for ingredients lacking in strong scents. Except the time when I backed into whole lambs hanging, waiting for butchering. But that's another story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because the restaurant made so much bread, our starter was kept in a plastic rolling garbage can sized container. Massively huge. Lets call it 50 gallons for the sake of a good guess. Whoever arrived first thing in the morning was required to roll it out of the walk-in, pull a few gallons for that nights bake and feed the monster. The last duty meant we had to lean over the lip, reach into the sticky abyss, and stir the gloopy gurgling mixture with a large wooden spoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No matter how much we rolled up the sleeves of our chef's jackets, some of the starter would creep into our uniform. But this wasn't the worst of it. Natural starter is stickier than glue. When we were done with our duties, we held out our arms like surgeons and entered the dish room, tackling skin with hot water and the high-pressure sprayer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even after countless showers, little teardrops of dried starter stuck to my arm hairs, eventually rendering me as soft and hairless as a Tour De France cyclist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0205.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One day I arrived in the kitchen earlier than anyone. I turned on ovens, flipped light switches and then noticed something very weird. The 2nd walk-in door was slightly ajar. Walk-ins come equipped with self-closing doors and, for safety, door handles on the inside as well as the outside. Doors do not stay open, as they are pressure sealed and close with the fwooop! to prove it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was alone in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I stood in front of the door. I held my breath. Listened very closely. Nothing but the whir of the fan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then I tried the door. Although it was ajar I had a hard time getting it more open. I tried to peer inside. Nothing. Pulling as hard as I could, the door flew open, throwing me on the ground. Recovering just in time to catch the door before it closed again, I stepped inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Someone had not sealed the starter's lid. Usually we closed the lid and weighted it with a few half gallons of dairy. To keep the bears out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0211.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starter grew out of the 50-gallon bucket. Crept down the sides. Grew across the floor like lava. Scaled the cold box walls. Spread its wings, traversing 90-degree angles, and defied gravity by covering the ceiling. Starter dripped on my head, plop. Starter was everywhere. Alive, happy, wet, sticky, growing. I looked down. Like the first man on the moon I saw my shoes disappearing into foreign goo. Starter naughtily walked out the door.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The starter was having a party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I would spend the next many many hours cleaning up after it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lesson number 1:\u003cbr>\nNever leave a starter unattended. Never assume it sleeps a deep dormant sleep in a cold box. Never question the power of wild yeast you've wrangled in, microscopically, from the air. Never forget that day. Never say pshaw to a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lactobacillus_sanfranciscensis\">Californian sourdough\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Part 2: Monday April 23.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No matter how much we rolled up the sleeves of our chef's jackets, some of the starter would creep into our uniform. But this wasn't the worst of it. Natural starter is stickier than glue. When we were done with our duties, we held out our arms like surgeons and entered the dish room, tackling skin with hot water and the high-pressure sprayer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even after countless showers, little teardrops of dried starter stuck to my arm hairs, eventually rendering me as soft and hairless as a Tour De France cyclist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0205.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One day I arrived in the kitchen earlier than anyone. I turned on ovens, flipped light switches and then noticed something very weird. The 2nd walk-in door was slightly ajar. Walk-ins come equipped with self-closing doors and, for safety, door handles on the inside as well as the outside. Doors do not stay open, as they are pressure sealed and close with the fwooop! to prove it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was alone in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I stood in front of the door. I held my breath. Listened very closely. Nothing but the whir of the fan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then I tried the door. Although it was ajar I had a hard time getting it more open. I tried to peer inside. Nothing. Pulling as hard as I could, the door flew open, throwing me on the ground. Recovering just in time to catch the door before it closed again, I stepped inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Someone had not sealed the starter's lid. Usually we closed the lid and weighted it with a few half gallons of dairy. To keep the bears out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0211.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starter grew out of the 50-gallon bucket. Crept down the sides. Grew across the floor like lava. Scaled the cold box walls. Spread its wings, traversing 90-degree angles, and defied gravity by covering the ceiling. Starter dripped on my head, plop. Starter was everywhere. Alive, happy, wet, sticky, growing. I looked down. Like the first man on the moon I saw my shoes disappearing into foreign goo. Starter naughtily walked out the door.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The starter was having a party.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I would spend the next many many hours cleaning up after it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lesson number 1:\u003cbr>\nNever leave a starter unattended. Never assume it sleeps a deep dormant sleep in a cold box. Never question the power of wild yeast you've wrangled in, microscopically, from the air. Never forget that day. Never say pshaw to a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lactobacillus_sanfranciscensis\">Californian sourdough\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Part 2: Monday April 23.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>My favorite story illustrating the inventiveness of fans making requests comes from a Violent Femmes concert. The Violent Femmes made famous a number of songs suggestive or outright sexual in nature. But then they became Born Again Christians and had a hard time loosening up at the few shows they played since this transformation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One night, after informing the crowd that they would not only not play said famous songs, but they would stop playing altogether if the crowd didn't quiet down, a paper cup landed on stage. Attached to the cup was a plain string.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Do you remember this sound science experiment from elementary school?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A fan deep within the crowd held the other cup. Into it they whispered a request. Through the string was sent the quietest of questions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flattered and wowed by the silly, practical, respectful inventiveness of the method, the Violent Femmes played a song they would never have otherwise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To this end I bring you a recipe, at the bequest of one \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/04/where_have_all_.html\">Eggbeater\u003c/a> reader; a chocolate cake for all occasions. I think she was asking for the sister cake to \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/10/yellow_cake_wit.html\">the best yellow cake ever\u003c/a>, but this one came to mind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Devil's Food Cake relies on some very particular science for all that it is and will become. A chocolate cake of deep blackness, moist light crumb and chocolaty perfume, is actually devoid of chocolate proper. It is said that the infamous \u003ca href=\"http://www.answers.com/topic/red-velvet-cake\">Red Velvet Cake\u003c/a> is really Devil's Food Cake before cocoa was very good. *For this reason, and others soon to be explained, it is of utmost importance that you use alkalized, European cocoa when making this cake. \u003ca href=\"http://www.scharffenberger.com/chocfaqs.asp#sbvsothr\">The all natural stuff\u003c/a> will produce something that will not be able to be called cake. (It will not rise.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/11/crepes-day-off-activity.jsp\"> I have explained before\u003c/a> in other \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/07/pie_ii.html\">posts about particular recipes\u003c/a>, baking is a science reliant upon knowing exactly what role each ingredient plays to create the outcome, the final performance. Devil's Food Cake is about the reaction between acid (cocoa, buttermilk, baking soda, coffee) leaveners (baking soda, baking powder) and heat (temp of the coffee and oven.) The structure, albeit bare and tender, comes from cake flour and the whites in the eggs. Richness is added to the cocoa with butter, a few extra yolks add fat without more butter, which would weigh down the rise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A little known fact: cocoa has no flavor, no perfume, until introduced to a heat source.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And without further words I give you,\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>DEVIL'S FOOD CAKE\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 C Sugar\u003cbr>\n12 Tablespoons Cocoa*\u003cbr>\n3/4 Cup Cake flour\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon Baking Soda\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon Baking Powder\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon Kosher Salt\u003cbr>\n1 each Egg\u003cbr>\n2 each Egg Yolks\u003cbr>\n1/2 Cup Hot Coffee\u003cbr>\n1/2 Cup Buttermilk\u003cbr>\n5 Tablespoons Unsalted Butter, cubed\u003cbr>\nSplash Vanilla Extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat oven to 350F Place oven rack in middle of oven.\u003cbr>\n2. Butter and flour 9\" round cake pan or individual ramekins. If you have parchment paper, cut out a circle and place on bottom of buttered pan. Butter and flour over parchment, if using.\u003cbr>\n3. In one big bowl sift cocoa, sugar, cake flour, baking soda and baking powder. Add salt to this, whisk to achieve a uniform mixture, and create a \"well\" in center.\u003cbr>\n4. Brew coffee, measure and drop cubed butter in hot liquid, whisk to melt and combine. (Do not let mixture cool too much.)\u003cbr>\n5. Pour cracked egg and yolks into well, whisk briefly. Pour in coffee-melted butter mixture, whisk briefly, pour in buttermilk and then whisk thoroughly to incorporate all dries. Attempt to eliminate any lumps. Add splash of vanilla extract.\u003cbr>\n6. Batter will be very loose, pourable.\u003cbr>\n7. Pour batter into prepared baking vessel(s) and set on a baking pan. (This insures heat will be better distributed than if you just put the cake pan directly on the rack of the oven.) Set first timer for 20 minutes. At the 20 minute mark, turn pan around, and set timer for another 10-15 minutes. (If you choose not to turn pan around it will most probably rise lopsided.) **Cake is done when skewer or sharp knife inserted in middle comes out clean and/or when sides pull away from pan and middle bounces back to the touch.\u003cbr>\n8. Cool cake pan on cooling rack until room temperature. Turn cake out to cool more or serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>**I don't like to say how long a cake will take to bake. It depends on your oven, how long it needs to preheat, how hot your kitchen is, and the weight/material of your cooking vessel(s).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because Devil's Food Cake is very chocolatey, but almost as light as Angel Food Cake, it can stand to be served with much richer items like ice cream, ganache or mousse. For \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/11/chocolate_frost.html\">a foolproof chocolate frosting click here\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Devil's Food Cake tastes good the day it's made, but if you can muster the will power, this recipe tastes even better the next day or a few days later, refigerated. It's the only cake I know that gets better with cold and age. The crumb is denser after a few days in the icebox, but nonetheless delicious.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>My favorite story illustrating the inventiveness of fans making requests comes from a Violent Femmes concert. The Violent Femmes made famous a number of songs suggestive or outright sexual in nature. But then they became Born Again Christians and had a hard time loosening up at the few shows they played since this transformation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One night, after informing the crowd that they would not only not play said famous songs, but they would stop playing altogether if the crowd didn't quiet down, a paper cup landed on stage. Attached to the cup was a plain string.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Do you remember this sound science experiment from elementary school?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A fan deep within the crowd held the other cup. Into it they whispered a request. Through the string was sent the quietest of questions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flattered and wowed by the silly, practical, respectful inventiveness of the method, the Violent Femmes played a song they would never have otherwise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To this end I bring you a recipe, at the bequest of one \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/04/where_have_all_.html\">Eggbeater\u003c/a> reader; a chocolate cake for all occasions. I think she was asking for the sister cake to \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/10/yellow_cake_wit.html\">the best yellow cake ever\u003c/a>, but this one came to mind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Devil's Food Cake relies on some very particular science for all that it is and will become. A chocolate cake of deep blackness, moist light crumb and chocolaty perfume, is actually devoid of chocolate proper. It is said that the infamous \u003ca href=\"http://www.answers.com/topic/red-velvet-cake\">Red Velvet Cake\u003c/a> is really Devil's Food Cake before cocoa was very good. *For this reason, and others soon to be explained, it is of utmost importance that you use alkalized, European cocoa when making this cake. \u003ca href=\"http://www.scharffenberger.com/chocfaqs.asp#sbvsothr\">The all natural stuff\u003c/a> will produce something that will not be able to be called cake. (It will not rise.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/11/crepes-day-off-activity.jsp\"> I have explained before\u003c/a> in other \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/07/pie_ii.html\">posts about particular recipes\u003c/a>, baking is a science reliant upon knowing exactly what role each ingredient plays to create the outcome, the final performance. Devil's Food Cake is about the reaction between acid (cocoa, buttermilk, baking soda, coffee) leaveners (baking soda, baking powder) and heat (temp of the coffee and oven.) The structure, albeit bare and tender, comes from cake flour and the whites in the eggs. Richness is added to the cocoa with butter, a few extra yolks add fat without more butter, which would weigh down the rise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A little known fact: cocoa has no flavor, no perfume, until introduced to a heat source.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And without further words I give you,\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>DEVIL'S FOOD CAKE\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 C Sugar\u003cbr>\n12 Tablespoons Cocoa*\u003cbr>\n3/4 Cup Cake flour\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon Baking Soda\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon Baking Powder\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon Kosher Salt\u003cbr>\n1 each Egg\u003cbr>\n2 each Egg Yolks\u003cbr>\n1/2 Cup Hot Coffee\u003cbr>\n1/2 Cup Buttermilk\u003cbr>\n5 Tablespoons Unsalted Butter, cubed\u003cbr>\nSplash Vanilla Extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat oven to 350F Place oven rack in middle of oven.\u003cbr>\n2. Butter and flour 9\" round cake pan or individual ramekins. If you have parchment paper, cut out a circle and place on bottom of buttered pan. Butter and flour over parchment, if using.\u003cbr>\n3. In one big bowl sift cocoa, sugar, cake flour, baking soda and baking powder. Add salt to this, whisk to achieve a uniform mixture, and create a \"well\" in center.\u003cbr>\n4. Brew coffee, measure and drop cubed butter in hot liquid, whisk to melt and combine. (Do not let mixture cool too much.)\u003cbr>\n5. Pour cracked egg and yolks into well, whisk briefly. Pour in coffee-melted butter mixture, whisk briefly, pour in buttermilk and then whisk thoroughly to incorporate all dries. Attempt to eliminate any lumps. Add splash of vanilla extract.\u003cbr>\n6. Batter will be very loose, pourable.\u003cbr>\n7. Pour batter into prepared baking vessel(s) and set on a baking pan. (This insures heat will be better distributed than if you just put the cake pan directly on the rack of the oven.) Set first timer for 20 minutes. At the 20 minute mark, turn pan around, and set timer for another 10-15 minutes. (If you choose not to turn pan around it will most probably rise lopsided.) **Cake is done when skewer or sharp knife inserted in middle comes out clean and/or when sides pull away from pan and middle bounces back to the touch.\u003cbr>\n8. Cool cake pan on cooling rack until room temperature. Turn cake out to cool more or serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>**I don't like to say how long a cake will take to bake. It depends on your oven, how long it needs to preheat, how hot your kitchen is, and the weight/material of your cooking vessel(s).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because Devil's Food Cake is very chocolatey, but almost as light as Angel Food Cake, it can stand to be served with much richer items like ice cream, ganache or mousse. For \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/11/chocolate_frost.html\">a foolproof chocolate frosting click here\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Devil's Food Cake tastes good the day it's made, but if you can muster the will power, this recipe tastes even better the next day or a few days later, refigerated. It's the only cake I know that gets better with cold and age. The crumb is denser after a few days in the icebox, but nonetheless delicious.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Apricots Almonds\u003cbr>Leeks vinaigrette\u003cbr>gentle flavoured grains\u003cbr>sweet fresh rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>almond blossom tea\u003cbr>green and black\u003cbr>the cathedral inside the fig trees\u003cbr>leaves like large hands\u003cbr>blush striped\u003cbr>and blue black purple figs\u003cbr>ripe and heavy\u003cbr>the heft of grapefruit\u003cbr>tangerine oil, when peel is pulled back\u003cbr>scent of lemon in my hands\u003cbr>eucalyptus honey\u003cbr>bay laurel leaves, definitive green\u003cbr>juniper berries and pinecones\u003cbr>their nuts burrowed deep inside\u003cbr>Quince perfumes house at dusk\u003cbr>leave me wandering\u003cbr>in oily night blooming jasmine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One crushed cardamon pod at the bottom of inky thick coffee\u003cbr>hot and dark\u003cbr>four\u003cbr>crisp\u003cbr>doughnut\u003cbr>fritters\u003cbr>shiny with ferocious oil\u003cbr>browning, expanding\u003cbr>caramel buttery salty\u003cbr>chocolate melting\u003cbr>like paint on cheek insides\u003cbr>a woman's face against mine\u003cbr>like peaches\u003cbr>or green almond husk\u003cbr>plums with reds and purples\u003cbr>mixed inks\u003cbr>flesh and skin\u003cbr>sour and sweet\u003cbr>love affair with citrus.\u003cbr>the dream of bergamot\u003cbr>one shot of Royal Mandarin juice\u003cbr>limes and kumquats\u003cbr>whole and wagon wheel shapes\u003cbr>quarters, eighths, whole.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crunchy Hot toast\u003cbr>Crab apple, autumn scented\u003cbr>pears picked once\u003cbr>cold, green, ready.\u003cbr>A Comice's fair complexion\u003cbr>bruised by insults uttered \u003cb>\u003cbr>\u003c/b>Walnuts and dried fruit compotes\u003cbr>fireplace warmth\u003cbr>mittens and woolen scarves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>the cherry that protects its stone\u003cbr>and one tiny almond lives within it.\u003cbr>bees who sex flowers to fruit\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thick Arms on Mango Trees\u003cbr>pulp and juice to my elbow\u003cbr>avocados underfoot\u003cbr>i'll take green or ripe guavas\u003cbr>challenging loud seeds between uncertain teeth\u003cbr>lychees in porcupine skin\u003cbr>k'nippes camouflaged in their own canopy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Demure berries\u003cbr>the most delicate of all\u003cbr>needing sun but not heat\u003cbr>rain but not downpour\u003cbr>bees not birds\u003cbr>fingers but not hands\u003cbr>o raspberry, where art thou?\u003cbr>ripe blackberry?\u003cbr>bloody forearms\u003cbr>mosquitoes in ears, on sweaty neck\u003cbr>blue-purple stains every which way\u003cbr>the pleasure is grand\u003cbr>but fleeting -\u003cbr>Strawberry soup\u003cbr>smooth and seedless\u003cbr>exquisite small strawberries\u003cbr>crawling on the ground to find you -\u003cbr>Summer drunks me with berries promise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clamming in Long Island with my Grandfather\u003cbr>they spit and pee and pull you down\u003cbr>The immense strength of mollusk\u003cbr>Seagulls repeatedly dropping from great heights\u003cbr>smashing open tightly sealed lips\u003cbr>our roof a beach\u003cbr>the ground outside the door, white\u003cbr>My mother feeding me the salty sea\u003cbr>raw clams\u003cbr>taste memory\u003cbr>connected to swimming in ocean alive\u003cbr>sand sharks against shins\u003cbr>schools of fish turning in unison\u003cbr>inquisitive little fishes nibbling toes\u003cbr>learning to drive boats first\u003cbr>salted eyelashes and brows\u003cbr>smoked gold fish for lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>lox and bagels\u003cbr>gefilte fish\u003cbr>and what does that fish look like?\u003cbr>Scales stuck to my clothes like sequins\u003cbr>guts on the dock\u003cbr>birds at its wooden edge, eager.\u003cbr>Flounder is flat\u003cbr>the swordfish above my bed is very blue\u003cbr>lobster was always delicious\u003cbr>steamers and their liquor\u003cbr>hot roiling boiling steamy sea\u003cbr>chewy, soft, gritty, sweet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My love for you\u003cbr>as delicious as\u003cbr>all this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-- March 2001\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>April is Poetry Month.\u003cbr>For more poems by Shuna Lydon, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/p_o_e_m/index.html\">check in with Eggbeater through this link all month.\u003cbr>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Apricots Almonds\u003cbr>Leeks vinaigrette\u003cbr>gentle flavoured grains\u003cbr>sweet fresh rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>almond blossom tea\u003cbr>green and black\u003cbr>the cathedral inside the fig trees\u003cbr>leaves like large hands\u003cbr>blush striped\u003cbr>and blue black purple figs\u003cbr>ripe and heavy\u003cbr>the heft of grapefruit\u003cbr>tangerine oil, when peel is pulled back\u003cbr>scent of lemon in my hands\u003cbr>eucalyptus honey\u003cbr>bay laurel leaves, definitive green\u003cbr>juniper berries and pinecones\u003cbr>their nuts burrowed deep inside\u003cbr>Quince perfumes house at dusk\u003cbr>leave me wandering\u003cbr>in oily night blooming jasmine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One crushed cardamon pod at the bottom of inky thick coffee\u003cbr>hot and dark\u003cbr>four\u003cbr>crisp\u003cbr>doughnut\u003cbr>fritters\u003cbr>shiny with ferocious oil\u003cbr>browning, expanding\u003cbr>caramel buttery salty\u003cbr>chocolate melting\u003cbr>like paint on cheek insides\u003cbr>a woman's face against mine\u003cbr>like peaches\u003cbr>or green almond husk\u003cbr>plums with reds and purples\u003cbr>mixed inks\u003cbr>flesh and skin\u003cbr>sour and sweet\u003cbr>love affair with citrus.\u003cbr>the dream of bergamot\u003cbr>one shot of Royal Mandarin juice\u003cbr>limes and kumquats\u003cbr>whole and wagon wheel shapes\u003cbr>quarters, eighths, whole.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crunchy Hot toast\u003cbr>Crab apple, autumn scented\u003cbr>pears picked once\u003cbr>cold, green, ready.\u003cbr>A Comice's fair complexion\u003cbr>bruised by insults uttered \u003cb>\u003cbr>\u003c/b>Walnuts and dried fruit compotes\u003cbr>fireplace warmth\u003cbr>mittens and woolen scarves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>the cherry that protects its stone\u003cbr>and one tiny almond lives within it.\u003cbr>bees who sex flowers to fruit\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thick Arms on Mango Trees\u003cbr>pulp and juice to my elbow\u003cbr>avocados underfoot\u003cbr>i'll take green or ripe guavas\u003cbr>challenging loud seeds between uncertain teeth\u003cbr>lychees in porcupine skin\u003cbr>k'nippes camouflaged in their own canopy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Demure berries\u003cbr>the most delicate of all\u003cbr>needing sun but not heat\u003cbr>rain but not downpour\u003cbr>bees not birds\u003cbr>fingers but not hands\u003cbr>o raspberry, where art thou?\u003cbr>ripe blackberry?\u003cbr>bloody forearms\u003cbr>mosquitoes in ears, on sweaty neck\u003cbr>blue-purple stains every which way\u003cbr>the pleasure is grand\u003cbr>but fleeting -\u003cbr>Strawberry soup\u003cbr>smooth and seedless\u003cbr>exquisite small strawberries\u003cbr>crawling on the ground to find you -\u003cbr>Summer drunks me with berries promise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clamming in Long Island with my Grandfather\u003cbr>they spit and pee and pull you down\u003cbr>The immense strength of mollusk\u003cbr>Seagulls repeatedly dropping from great heights\u003cbr>smashing open tightly sealed lips\u003cbr>our roof a beach\u003cbr>the ground outside the door, white\u003cbr>My mother feeding me the salty sea\u003cbr>raw clams\u003cbr>taste memory\u003cbr>connected to swimming in ocean alive\u003cbr>sand sharks against shins\u003cbr>schools of fish turning in unison\u003cbr>inquisitive little fishes nibbling toes\u003cbr>learning to drive boats first\u003cbr>salted eyelashes and brows\u003cbr>smoked gold fish for lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>lox and bagels\u003cbr>gefilte fish\u003cbr>and what does that fish look like?\u003cbr>Scales stuck to my clothes like sequins\u003cbr>guts on the dock\u003cbr>birds at its wooden edge, eager.\u003cbr>Flounder is flat\u003cbr>the swordfish above my bed is very blue\u003cbr>lobster was always delicious\u003cbr>steamers and their liquor\u003cbr>hot roiling boiling steamy sea\u003cbr>chewy, soft, gritty, sweet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My love for you\u003cbr>as delicious as\u003cbr>all this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>-- March 2001\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>April is Poetry Month.\u003cbr>For more poems by Shuna Lydon, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/p_o_e_m/index.html\">check in with Eggbeater through this link all month.\u003cbr>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\"Sweet & Salt Relish\" is a recipe entry dated March/April 2003 in one of my little recipe books. Each book corresponds to a time period, the restaurant I was working in at the time. The pages in this one reflect recipes I used in my first months at \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/about_us.html\">Aziza\u003c/a>, a Moroccan restaurant with a particularly modern Californian slant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was attempting to create a vegan garnish for the sorbet plate. Mourad Lahlou, Aziza's chef/owner, serves food thick with aroma and spice, rich with clarified butter and intense from slow braised meat sauces. My goal was to create sweets clean and bright with seasonal flavors: desserts I would crave after eating his North African sweet-savory food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inspired by \u003ca href=\"http://www.recipezaar.com/215450\">Haroseth\u003c/a> and in lieu of Passover, a Jewish holiday ending in the eating of flour-free \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/04/passover_desser.html\">(unleavened) desserts\u003c/a>, I give you an intriguing garnish for just about anything sweet, savory, or both. Although this recipe could be made very quickly in a food processor, I strongly suggest chopping all the fruits and nuts by hand. Not only will you have more control over the size and shape of each piece, it will give you time to meditate on \u003ca href=\"http://www.funmunch.com/events/passover/seder.shtml\">the traditions of eating representational foods\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SWEET & SALT RELISH\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 C Organic Raw Almonds\u003cbr>\n3/4 Cup Candied Kumquats*\u003cbr>\n1 Cup California Dried Apricots\u003cbr>\n10 each Dried White Figs\u003cbr>\n1 Cup Cold Press Extra Virgin Olive Oil\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon Sel Gris\u003cbr>\n1/4 Cup Cocoa Nibs\u003cbr>\nOptional: Honey, Lemon Zest or 1/4 Preserved Lemon (peel only)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Rough chop almonds, candied kumquats (*get recipe \u003ca href=\"http://egghunt.typepad.com/egghunt/2006/04/swan_song.html\">by clicking here\u003c/a>), apricots and figs, and place in bowl. Stir to combine.\u003cbr>\n2. Stir in olive oil, salt and minced preserved lemon peel or optional ingredients.\u003cbr>\n3. Just before serving, add cocoa nibs. (This step will preserve some of their crunch, but it's not absolutely necessary.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweet & Salt Relish will keep upwards of a month refrigerated in a non-reactive, tightly sealed container.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I used this kooky garnish for \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/01/redwood-hill-goat-yogurt-granite-or.jsp\">sorbet\u003c/a>, but it would also be lovely with most any cheese, especially fresh ones like ricotta, chevre or fromage frais. For those of you who like both a savory as well as a sweet breakfast, Sweet & Salt Relish would be delicious with yogurt-- plain, Greek or goat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoy! And if it pertains to you and yours, Happy Pesach!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\"Sweet & Salt Relish\" is a recipe entry dated March/April 2003 in one of my little recipe books. Each book corresponds to a time period, the restaurant I was working in at the time. The pages in this one reflect recipes I used in my first months at \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/about_us.html\">Aziza\u003c/a>, a Moroccan restaurant with a particularly modern Californian slant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was attempting to create a vegan garnish for the sorbet plate. Mourad Lahlou, Aziza's chef/owner, serves food thick with aroma and spice, rich with clarified butter and intense from slow braised meat sauces. My goal was to create sweets clean and bright with seasonal flavors: desserts I would crave after eating his North African sweet-savory food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inspired by \u003ca href=\"http://www.recipezaar.com/215450\">Haroseth\u003c/a> and in lieu of Passover, a Jewish holiday ending in the eating of flour-free \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/04/passover_desser.html\">(unleavened) desserts\u003c/a>, I give you an intriguing garnish for just about anything sweet, savory, or both. Although this recipe could be made very quickly in a food processor, I strongly suggest chopping all the fruits and nuts by hand. Not only will you have more control over the size and shape of each piece, it will give you time to meditate on \u003ca href=\"http://www.funmunch.com/events/passover/seder.shtml\">the traditions of eating representational foods\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SWEET & SALT RELISH\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 C Organic Raw Almonds\u003cbr>\n3/4 Cup Candied Kumquats*\u003cbr>\n1 Cup California Dried Apricots\u003cbr>\n10 each Dried White Figs\u003cbr>\n1 Cup Cold Press Extra Virgin Olive Oil\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon Sel Gris\u003cbr>\n1/4 Cup Cocoa Nibs\u003cbr>\nOptional: Honey, Lemon Zest or 1/4 Preserved Lemon (peel only)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Rough chop almonds, candied kumquats (*get recipe \u003ca href=\"http://egghunt.typepad.com/egghunt/2006/04/swan_song.html\">by clicking here\u003c/a>), apricots and figs, and place in bowl. Stir to combine.\u003cbr>\n2. Stir in olive oil, salt and minced preserved lemon peel or optional ingredients.\u003cbr>\n3. Just before serving, add cocoa nibs. (This step will preserve some of their crunch, but it's not absolutely necessary.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweet & Salt Relish will keep upwards of a month refrigerated in a non-reactive, tightly sealed container.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I used this kooky garnish for \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/01/redwood-hill-goat-yogurt-granite-or.jsp\">sorbet\u003c/a>, but it would also be lovely with most any cheese, especially fresh ones like ricotta, chevre or fromage frais. For those of you who like both a savory as well as a sweet breakfast, Sweet & Salt Relish would be delicious with yogurt-- plain, Greek or goat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoy! And if it pertains to you and yours, Happy Pesach!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>My birthday is tomorrow. Depending on whose age you look at in my family I am either not yet approaching middle age or will die in about 20 years. Supposedly this means I am to look at where I've been and where I'm going.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Up until very recently much of who I was, was one thing. Pastry Chef. The title, the position I'd been working for the last fourteen years, although much of the time unbeknownst to me, towards this goal. I identified myself with the restaurant I worked for. Which is a very good thing, because the second question people ask me, after learning how to pronounce my name, is, \"Oh really, where do you work?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I worked as \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/01/a_little_sarcas.html\">a pastry cook and assistant for almost 8 years\u003c/a> when I was given my first pastry chef job. Many of the assistants I worked alongside went on to be famous pastry chefs themselves. And I watched many cooks and sous chefs become chefs of their own restaurants. From my point of view one worked themselves up in the ranks before being given or holding a chef title.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the last few weeks I have consumed more desserts at restaurants (A16, Campton Place, Rubicon, Two, Delfina.) than I did all last year. And this week I'll be eating more. In part due to birthday dinners, but also as research for a position I'm interviewing for. The object is to find out who is making what in San Francisco. The goal is to assess the palate of the person I may work with, and for him to see what I might make or what sweet things inspire me. We are both looking at where our foggy city, one of the most food and restaurant-centric in The United States, stands on the platform of pastry chef hiring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have even \u003ca href=\"http://www.chowhound.com/topics/382044\">called upon the Chowhounders\u003c/a> to help me track down the best sugary courses within these forty-nine miles. Sadly, it's been like getting a straight answer out of a lawyer. One dessert here, another there. Some have even been so bold as to tell me about the artificially-flavored \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/06/butterscotch.html\">butterscotch\u003c/a> pudding at Town Hall. (An article \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/03/06/AR2007030600264.html\">about real butterscotch in The Washington Post here\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm not looking for all the sweets to be the same. One dessert at Chez Panisse will be like another at Zuni, Quince or Oliveto. (In fact, if you look at the lineage, these restaurants practically trade pastry chefs like baseball cards.) I want to try the homey American desserts at Salt House as well as Citizen Cake's kooky innovative concoctions or straightforward, simple, seasonal creations like those found at Delfina or Foreign Cinema.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My hope is that I will be eating a pastry chef's creations. I'm not so interested in restaurants that buy their desserts from an outside source. (Think I'm making this up? \u003ca href=\"http://www.timeoutny.com/newyork/Details.do?page=1&xyurl=xyl://TONYWebArticles2/596/eat_out/sweet_nothings.xml\">Read this short article\u003c/a> about the disappearing restaurant pastry chefs in NYC.) I'm also a little biased against the chefs who say they're not only the savoury chef of their kitchen, but also the pastry chef. I realize this saves them a lot of money, but I'm really tired of eating warm oozy chocolate cake, creme brulee and tough crusted out-of-season fruit tarts or dishes that look like they just stepped out of the pastry and baking program at CCA.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It sounds like I'm hard to please doesn't it? I'm actually the biggest fan of delicious food you might ever meet. Give me simple, complex, hole-in-the-wall, humble, bold, a quiet ice cream cone, standard traditional fare, technically seamless, fussily plated or a cookie on the go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just let me taste the taste of skill, perhaps a dash of inspiration and/or innovation, a love for my craft, tiny sprinkles of deference, whiffs of hope for mastery, half cup of practice, grams upon ounces of question-asking-inquisitiveness, and, although not absolutely necessary: when I close my eyes I'd like to taste that that person's hard work over the years that they've read and worked and asked questions and eaten and tasted helped them land a job where they were taken seriously, and give them the chef title they deserved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Might you have a favorite pastry chef whose desserts I must have on my extreme dessert-eating spree this week? Any and all suggestions taken into consideration!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between Meals: SF Chronicle's Michael Bauer blog \u003ca href=\"http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/sfgate/category?blogid=26&cat=840\">on desserts in the Bay Area\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>My birthday is tomorrow. Depending on whose age you look at in my family I am either not yet approaching middle age or will die in about 20 years. Supposedly this means I am to look at where I've been and where I'm going.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Up until very recently much of who I was, was one thing. Pastry Chef. The title, the position I'd been working for the last fourteen years, although much of the time unbeknownst to me, towards this goal. I identified myself with the restaurant I worked for. Which is a very good thing, because the second question people ask me, after learning how to pronounce my name, is, \"Oh really, where do you work?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I worked as \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/01/a_little_sarcas.html\">a pastry cook and assistant for almost 8 years\u003c/a> when I was given my first pastry chef job. Many of the assistants I worked alongside went on to be famous pastry chefs themselves. And I watched many cooks and sous chefs become chefs of their own restaurants. From my point of view one worked themselves up in the ranks before being given or holding a chef title.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the last few weeks I have consumed more desserts at restaurants (A16, Campton Place, Rubicon, Two, Delfina.) than I did all last year. And this week I'll be eating more. In part due to birthday dinners, but also as research for a position I'm interviewing for. The object is to find out who is making what in San Francisco. The goal is to assess the palate of the person I may work with, and for him to see what I might make or what sweet things inspire me. We are both looking at where our foggy city, one of the most food and restaurant-centric in The United States, stands on the platform of pastry chef hiring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have even \u003ca href=\"http://www.chowhound.com/topics/382044\">called upon the Chowhounders\u003c/a> to help me track down the best sugary courses within these forty-nine miles. Sadly, it's been like getting a straight answer out of a lawyer. One dessert here, another there. Some have even been so bold as to tell me about the artificially-flavored \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/06/butterscotch.html\">butterscotch\u003c/a> pudding at Town Hall. (An article \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/03/06/AR2007030600264.html\">about real butterscotch in The Washington Post here\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm not looking for all the sweets to be the same. One dessert at Chez Panisse will be like another at Zuni, Quince or Oliveto. (In fact, if you look at the lineage, these restaurants practically trade pastry chefs like baseball cards.) I want to try the homey American desserts at Salt House as well as Citizen Cake's kooky innovative concoctions or straightforward, simple, seasonal creations like those found at Delfina or Foreign Cinema.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My hope is that I will be eating a pastry chef's creations. I'm not so interested in restaurants that buy their desserts from an outside source. (Think I'm making this up? \u003ca href=\"http://www.timeoutny.com/newyork/Details.do?page=1&xyurl=xyl://TONYWebArticles2/596/eat_out/sweet_nothings.xml\">Read this short article\u003c/a> about the disappearing restaurant pastry chefs in NYC.) I'm also a little biased against the chefs who say they're not only the savoury chef of their kitchen, but also the pastry chef. I realize this saves them a lot of money, but I'm really tired of eating warm oozy chocolate cake, creme brulee and tough crusted out-of-season fruit tarts or dishes that look like they just stepped out of the pastry and baking program at CCA.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It sounds like I'm hard to please doesn't it? I'm actually the biggest fan of delicious food you might ever meet. Give me simple, complex, hole-in-the-wall, humble, bold, a quiet ice cream cone, standard traditional fare, technically seamless, fussily plated or a cookie on the go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just let me taste the taste of skill, perhaps a dash of inspiration and/or innovation, a love for my craft, tiny sprinkles of deference, whiffs of hope for mastery, half cup of practice, grams upon ounces of question-asking-inquisitiveness, and, although not absolutely necessary: when I close my eyes I'd like to taste that that person's hard work over the years that they've read and worked and asked questions and eaten and tasted helped them land a job where they were taken seriously, and give them the chef title they deserved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Might you have a favorite pastry chef whose desserts I must have on my extreme dessert-eating spree this week? Any and all suggestions taken into consideration!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between Meals: SF Chronicle's Michael Bauer blog \u003ca href=\"http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/sfgate/category?blogid=26&cat=840\">on desserts in the Bay Area\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>There appears to be no end to the amount of emails through \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/\">Eggbeater\u003c/a> I get on this subject. The irony is not lost on me. I am a self-taught chef. Trained on-the-job, my resume is my only certificate. It's rare I meet other people like me in my age range. More rare still that I work in a kitchen with anyone who has not gone through a culinary program at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, I have been training culinary students for almost 15 years. Whether it's side-by-side training to get them familiar with my station and the kitchen at large, or as their supervisor through an extern/internship (culinary schools use either nomenclature for the same thing: sending students out into the field for work experience before they graduate) or as their direct boss after they've graduated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The specific, name-brand culinary school students I've worked with and trained have depended on the geographical location of the businesses or their respective fame. Because of this, I have strong opinions on specific schools. I've come to learn their strengths as well as their gross weaknesses. I have become opinionated about a form of education I myself could not afford, time or money-wise. I have been working since I was 14, and have not since had the luxury of learning without pay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For these reasons, when I receive email missives all over the world on the subject of culinary school advice, I dole out well thought out and experiential words. I have lost count of the people who wish they'd listened to me when I attempted to talk them out of culinary school.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is not that I think all culinary education outside of the workplace is a waste of time. But I think one should know all their options before signing a check for upwards of $60,000 for two years of education, or less.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know for a fact that few, if any, culinary schools, lay out all the facts and possibilities for prospective students making bright eyed inquiries on their shiny doorsteps. It used to be that culinary schools required their future students to have at least some experience in the field before even being able to apply. Now the only skill a future cook needs to possess is the ability to sign a check.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I receive an email the first thing I do is ask the person a number of questions. I realize each person coming to me has a different agenda, various hopes, specific goals and has bravely put forth an inquiry to a complete stranger. It's vulnerable to ask for help, but an amazing resource the www offers anyone trusting enough to think there's someone out there who can answer seemingly impossible or overwhelming questions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I began my career from a similar place. A friend of a friend of a friend was a chef in New York City. Soon after she graduated from \u003ca href=\"http://www.cca.edu/\">CCAC\u003c/a> I took a trip there and contacted her. She did not hesitate to say yes and within hours of arriving I was sitting across from an accomplished chef taking notes on what she was saying. After thanking her profusely for making the time to see me she said something I hope to never forget. I have said it myself more than once and always credit her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I always say yes to helping other women in the field because professional cooking is a Men's Club. What we are doing here is the only network for female cooks. If I don't pass it on to other women, no one else will.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Almost a year later, the late \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barbara_Tropp\">Barbara Tropp\u003c/a> spoke strikingly similar words at a fundraising dinner announcing what would be the first women's culinary professional organization, \u003ca href=\"http://www.womenchefs.org/displaycommon.cfm?an=1\">Women Chefs and Restaurateurs\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/11/should_i_go_to_.html\">I've written\u003c/a> a fair amount \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/08/pastry_chef_pos.html\">on the subject of culinary school\u003c/a> advice. My most \"Googled\" piece is \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2005/04/what_is_a_chefs.html\">\"What is a Chef's Responsibility?\u003c/a>\" Recently I wrote a piece, so transparent I'm practically naked, about \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/01/a_little_sarcas.html\">the pastry chef glass ceiling\u003c/a> I've hit, especially in the Bay Area since both the Dot Com Bust and September 11th.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/12/is-public-ready-for-transparent.jsp\">It's not easy these days to be excited\u003c/a> about my profession, my specific field and the industry I love. But I believe deeply \"we keep what we have by giving it away,\" and I honor those who apprenticed, mentored and educated before me when I answer these missives. As well, I've recently fallen in love with \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/classes/index.html\">teaching culinary classes\u003c/a> myself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are some excerpts of emails I've sent to various people who have asked me for culinary school advice:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Know why it is you want to go to culinary school, what specific needs and desires you have, and then the education you go after will fill these. The other option is to go after a specific restaurant for on-the-job training.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some important attitude hints: Be humble. Start at The Bottom-- peeling apples, doing prep, learning to butcher, tempering chocolate by hand, etc. Do not take a job where you're considered \"the pastry chef\" for at least 5 years. Employers love to give titles to people to entice them, but it only works out for the business in the end-- because you're a lot cheaper than me and it's easier to stroke your ego with a title than the learning that you need to do along the way. Bad habits are formed in those cooks with little or no direction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It takes more time to unlearn than it does to start off training under the best people you can find. Not every chef is a great teacher. Most chefs do not have the time to teach. A lot of the learning is on you. Supplement your hours in the kitchen with articles, books, library visits, magazines, and eating out whenever you can afford to. Develop your taste memory by using all of your senses when you eat and go to farmers' markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You're not going to make very much money in this field, but most especially at the beginning. So it's of utmost importance you work with the (pastry) chef you want to. In the kitchen/restaurant you want to. Whose desserts/food do you love? Do you love the classical or modern stuff? Do you like big kitchens or the small ones? Asian food, French, North African... think about this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Do a little research: collect (dessert) menus from a bunch of local restaurants. When you go in and ask for the menu, have a pen and write down the (pastry) chef's full name. Then take your resume into each place whose (dessert) menu calls out to you and (make sure to find out when is the best time to go to the restaurant: if they serve lunch visit betw 3-4:30, if they only serve dinner, visit @ noon) go to each place asking for the (pastry) chef by name and ask if they have any positions open. They don't? Would they be willing to have you come in one or two days a week for free? Tell them how much their (dessert) menu interested you and say you are coming there to work for them specifically.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>INTENTIONALLY CHOOSE YOUR EDUCATION, YOUR TEACHERS, YOUR MENTORS.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you are going to make $10 hour working anywhere, work at the place you want to learn the most. Just like school, just like life: your education is up to you! You will learn a lot from someone who knows a lot. From someone who has a lot of suggestions, can brainstorm, knows the history of food and food science. Is able to teach, to mentor, and to be patient enough to grow a person from seed to sprout, at least.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't stay at a job unless you're learning. But don't put any job that you haven't been at for at least 6 months on your resume. Buy and read the SF Chronicle (or your local paper) and the NY Times Every Wednesday. This is the cheapest way to start your regional restaurant education.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But patience on your side is necessary. Chefs who think you're in a hurry will most likely view that attitude as disrespectful. Not a single craft \u003ca href=\"http://norvig.com/21-days.html\">is learned overnight\u003c/a>. Few chefs I've worked for have taught me by saying, \"Here let me show you a better way.\" Or, \"Take all the time you need to get this right.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Learning on the job has often meant that I learned under fire. It meant I had to pay close attention when chefs and sous chefs didn't teach in an empathetic way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.engines4ed.org/hyperbook/nodes/NODE-120-pg.html\">Learning how to cook professionally is about doing it\u003c/a>. It's repetition, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2005/03/what_my_hands_k.html\">teaching all five senses memory\u003c/a>. It's about deference and humility, respecting those who have been cooking/baking longer. It's stamina, and a passion so deep and strong it can feel delusional. Professional cooks are best when they are a precarious mix of humble and cocky, and knowing the balance is important. Something besides external validators like money, the public's gratitude or a normal life must drive you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And lastly:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There should be thousands of things YOU should look for in a professional cooking job! Is the kitchen clean? How are the Spanish-speaking workers treated? Are the sous chefs helpful? Is the chef absent? The food delicious? Is there a staff meal and is it edible? Are the appliances clean and working properly? Are people caring for themselves and their surroundings? The cooks tasting their food? How many cooks have been there longer than 6 months, a year? Is the sous chef a person who has been promoted, and if so, from what position? Are the cooks happy to be there? Are they learning? Is the pastry chef experienced? How long has the kitchen management been baking/cooking professionally? What's the style of the management team?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>School gives you a foot in the door. But that's all. Now the real work is ahead of you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am currently mentoring a few people, some of whom have chosen culinary school, some who are going alternate routes. It's thoroughly inspiring and rewarding. No matter what a person chooses, my hope is that my industry will continue to thrive and expand the envelopes and glass ceilings I've been straining against for the last 15 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if more people begin learning a craft that takes a lifetime plus to master, the more wonderful food there will be to appreciate.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>There appears to be no end to the amount of emails through \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/\">Eggbeater\u003c/a> I get on this subject. The irony is not lost on me. I am a self-taught chef. Trained on-the-job, my resume is my only certificate. It's rare I meet other people like me in my age range. More rare still that I work in a kitchen with anyone who has not gone through a culinary program at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, I have been training culinary students for almost 15 years. Whether it's side-by-side training to get them familiar with my station and the kitchen at large, or as their supervisor through an extern/internship (culinary schools use either nomenclature for the same thing: sending students out into the field for work experience before they graduate) or as their direct boss after they've graduated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The specific, name-brand culinary school students I've worked with and trained have depended on the geographical location of the businesses or their respective fame. Because of this, I have strong opinions on specific schools. I've come to learn their strengths as well as their gross weaknesses. I have become opinionated about a form of education I myself could not afford, time or money-wise. I have been working since I was 14, and have not since had the luxury of learning without pay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For these reasons, when I receive email missives all over the world on the subject of culinary school advice, I dole out well thought out and experiential words. I have lost count of the people who wish they'd listened to me when I attempted to talk them out of culinary school.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is not that I think all culinary education outside of the workplace is a waste of time. But I think one should know all their options before signing a check for upwards of $60,000 for two years of education, or less.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know for a fact that few, if any, culinary schools, lay out all the facts and possibilities for prospective students making bright eyed inquiries on their shiny doorsteps. It used to be that culinary schools required their future students to have at least some experience in the field before even being able to apply. Now the only skill a future cook needs to possess is the ability to sign a check.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I receive an email the first thing I do is ask the person a number of questions. I realize each person coming to me has a different agenda, various hopes, specific goals and has bravely put forth an inquiry to a complete stranger. It's vulnerable to ask for help, but an amazing resource the www offers anyone trusting enough to think there's someone out there who can answer seemingly impossible or overwhelming questions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I began my career from a similar place. A friend of a friend of a friend was a chef in New York City. Soon after she graduated from \u003ca href=\"http://www.cca.edu/\">CCAC\u003c/a> I took a trip there and contacted her. She did not hesitate to say yes and within hours of arriving I was sitting across from an accomplished chef taking notes on what she was saying. After thanking her profusely for making the time to see me she said something I hope to never forget. I have said it myself more than once and always credit her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I always say yes to helping other women in the field because professional cooking is a Men's Club. What we are doing here is the only network for female cooks. If I don't pass it on to other women, no one else will.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Almost a year later, the late \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barbara_Tropp\">Barbara Tropp\u003c/a> spoke strikingly similar words at a fundraising dinner announcing what would be the first women's culinary professional organization, \u003ca href=\"http://www.womenchefs.org/displaycommon.cfm?an=1\">Women Chefs and Restaurateurs\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/11/should_i_go_to_.html\">I've written\u003c/a> a fair amount \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/08/pastry_chef_pos.html\">on the subject of culinary school\u003c/a> advice. My most \"Googled\" piece is \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2005/04/what_is_a_chefs.html\">\"What is a Chef's Responsibility?\u003c/a>\" Recently I wrote a piece, so transparent I'm practically naked, about \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/01/a_little_sarcas.html\">the pastry chef glass ceiling\u003c/a> I've hit, especially in the Bay Area since both the Dot Com Bust and September 11th.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/12/is-public-ready-for-transparent.jsp\">It's not easy these days to be excited\u003c/a> about my profession, my specific field and the industry I love. But I believe deeply \"we keep what we have by giving it away,\" and I honor those who apprenticed, mentored and educated before me when I answer these missives. As well, I've recently fallen in love with \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/classes/index.html\">teaching culinary classes\u003c/a> myself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are some excerpts of emails I've sent to various people who have asked me for culinary school advice:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Know why it is you want to go to culinary school, what specific needs and desires you have, and then the education you go after will fill these. The other option is to go after a specific restaurant for on-the-job training.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some important attitude hints: Be humble. Start at The Bottom-- peeling apples, doing prep, learning to butcher, tempering chocolate by hand, etc. Do not take a job where you're considered \"the pastry chef\" for at least 5 years. Employers love to give titles to people to entice them, but it only works out for the business in the end-- because you're a lot cheaper than me and it's easier to stroke your ego with a title than the learning that you need to do along the way. Bad habits are formed in those cooks with little or no direction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It takes more time to unlearn than it does to start off training under the best people you can find. Not every chef is a great teacher. Most chefs do not have the time to teach. A lot of the learning is on you. Supplement your hours in the kitchen with articles, books, library visits, magazines, and eating out whenever you can afford to. Develop your taste memory by using all of your senses when you eat and go to farmers' markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You're not going to make very much money in this field, but most especially at the beginning. So it's of utmost importance you work with the (pastry) chef you want to. In the kitchen/restaurant you want to. Whose desserts/food do you love? Do you love the classical or modern stuff? Do you like big kitchens or the small ones? Asian food, French, North African... think about this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Do a little research: collect (dessert) menus from a bunch of local restaurants. When you go in and ask for the menu, have a pen and write down the (pastry) chef's full name. Then take your resume into each place whose (dessert) menu calls out to you and (make sure to find out when is the best time to go to the restaurant: if they serve lunch visit betw 3-4:30, if they only serve dinner, visit @ noon) go to each place asking for the (pastry) chef by name and ask if they have any positions open. They don't? Would they be willing to have you come in one or two days a week for free? Tell them how much their (dessert) menu interested you and say you are coming there to work for them specifically.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>INTENTIONALLY CHOOSE YOUR EDUCATION, YOUR TEACHERS, YOUR MENTORS.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you are going to make $10 hour working anywhere, work at the place you want to learn the most. Just like school, just like life: your education is up to you! You will learn a lot from someone who knows a lot. From someone who has a lot of suggestions, can brainstorm, knows the history of food and food science. Is able to teach, to mentor, and to be patient enough to grow a person from seed to sprout, at least.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't stay at a job unless you're learning. But don't put any job that you haven't been at for at least 6 months on your resume. Buy and read the SF Chronicle (or your local paper) and the NY Times Every Wednesday. This is the cheapest way to start your regional restaurant education.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But patience on your side is necessary. Chefs who think you're in a hurry will most likely view that attitude as disrespectful. Not a single craft \u003ca href=\"http://norvig.com/21-days.html\">is learned overnight\u003c/a>. Few chefs I've worked for have taught me by saying, \"Here let me show you a better way.\" Or, \"Take all the time you need to get this right.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Learning on the job has often meant that I learned under fire. It meant I had to pay close attention when chefs and sous chefs didn't teach in an empathetic way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.engines4ed.org/hyperbook/nodes/NODE-120-pg.html\">Learning how to cook professionally is about doing it\u003c/a>. It's repetition, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2005/03/what_my_hands_k.html\">teaching all five senses memory\u003c/a>. It's about deference and humility, respecting those who have been cooking/baking longer. It's stamina, and a passion so deep and strong it can feel delusional. Professional cooks are best when they are a precarious mix of humble and cocky, and knowing the balance is important. Something besides external validators like money, the public's gratitude or a normal life must drive you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And lastly:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There should be thousands of things YOU should look for in a professional cooking job! Is the kitchen clean? How are the Spanish-speaking workers treated? Are the sous chefs helpful? Is the chef absent? The food delicious? Is there a staff meal and is it edible? Are the appliances clean and working properly? Are people caring for themselves and their surroundings? The cooks tasting their food? How many cooks have been there longer than 6 months, a year? Is the sous chef a person who has been promoted, and if so, from what position? Are the cooks happy to be there? Are they learning? Is the pastry chef experienced? How long has the kitchen management been baking/cooking professionally? What's the style of the management team?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>School gives you a foot in the door. But that's all. Now the real work is ahead of you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am currently mentoring a few people, some of whom have chosen culinary school, some who are going alternate routes. It's thoroughly inspiring and rewarding. No matter what a person chooses, my hope is that my industry will continue to thrive and expand the envelopes and glass ceilings I've been straining against for the last 15 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if more people begin learning a craft that takes a lifetime plus to master, the more wonderful food there will be to appreciate.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Goose Dinner, A (Sumptuous) Belated Holiday Affair",
"title": "Goose Dinner, A (Sumptuous) Belated Holiday Affair",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9358.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every year you have the same holiday dinners. Turkey for this, ham for that. An odd crown roast or duck and maybe cedar plank fish if you have a house in the country. You like the same side dishes to go with these main proteins. With some meals a mixture of sweet and savory gracing the table is important, but sometimes it's all about the salt. Certain holidays are about being American and then there are the ones that remind you of the culture in which you grew up or flavors your grandmother introduced you to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9361.JPG\">\u003cbr>Each cavity stuffed with a different set of aromatics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9363.JPG\">\u003cbr>Goose, bound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You're married or belong to a community or every year you go to a different house for these holidays. Every year is basically the same, except that everyone's a little older, or every other you do what your partner wants. Sometimes you volunteer at your local synagogue or church or soup kitchen and make more food than you thought possible. When you sit down to eat after these days your exhaustion is deeply soul-satisfied with a varied plate of food you let yourself (finally) eat and enjoy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9382.JPG\">\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.elise.com/recipes/\">Elise Bauer\u003c/a> makes her famous \u003ca href=\"http://www.elise.com/recipes/archives/000086cranberry_relish.php\">cranberry-orange relish\u003c/a> at the event.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the year you make dinner parties or bring what the host asks you to make. You shop at the farmers' market differently for these special nights. You pull out your favorite cookbooks and try a new recipe or finesse a favorite from the tried-and-true box. You proudly unfurl your food and wait nervously for people to dig in, hoping beyond hope that what you've made will pass muster and maybe at the end of the night someone asks you for your recipe. You go home feeling warm and full in ways you generally don't after dinner at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9376.JPG\">\u003cbr>Basting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One day you realize you sorely miss a particular holiday dinner you went to year after year. It was German affair complete with goose, red cabbage with chestnuts, a most exquisitely rich pan gravy, \u003ca href=\"http://www.geocities.com/NapaValley/6579/recipes/c8.html\">lebkuchen\u003c/a> and bite-sized marzipan shapes from Berlin. The person who you went with has died, and now every year, at the same time, you miss that goose. Even though you didn't grow up with anyone who ever cooked a goose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9370.JPG\">\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://madeater.blogspot.com/\">Cookiecrumb and Cranky\u003c/a>'s bright and tangy sauerkraut crockpot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9367.JPG\">\u003cbr>Prepping the innards for gravy. (The goose is dense and rich and the gravy begs to be drunk from a glass!)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You have a food blog, or you date someone who has one. You used to cook professionally, or are going to culinary school, or are a professional food writer, or you live in a house the size of a private airplane hanger because you're the most amazing photographer, or you're a meat cooking expert or you have a wine cellar or you're not working right now. You organize a goose making dinner because you realize, in order to satiate this goose-eating-taste-bud appendage you've acquired and now must acknowledge, albeit late in life, you must learn how to cook said animal yourself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9384.JPG\">\u003cbr>Jessica Wilson taking the temperature of the geese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You start talking about the possibility of a German Holiday Feast near actual holidays to your food blogging friends. You plant the seed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A brilliant idea comes to you one night late. February! It's the perfect time for such a dinner. Although you won't get your geese warm from a fresh slaughter as you might near Christmas, you're told all your Bay Area options for goose buying. You're not working much or you're in need of organizing a grand food event. You've \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/02/dumplingsorama.html\">recently been to\u003c/a> a number \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/02/the_bakery_loft.html\">of massive community food gathering undertakings\u003c/a> for which you only showed up as a guest and now it's your time to kick it into gear. You go to you local meat expert, fellow blogger, someone you refer to sweetly as \u003ca href=\"http://www.cyberbilly.com/about.html\">your personal Meat Angel\u003c/a>. You know he's the person to make your first goose with.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9391.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You channel the most organized, bossy side of you. You want to eat what you want. You make a list, asking for people to choose from a list and \"call\" a dish. It reads: \"spaetzle, red cabbage with chestnuts, a green salad (for me what constitutes a salad, in, Feb. is head lettuce, cucumbers and radishes), baked potatoes, something sauerkrauty, steamed broccoli or greens or squash something, raw celery root something, something leeky, cranberry sauce/chutney something, chocolate, marzipan tinted dessert and \u003ca href=\"http://marcsala.blogspot.com/\">Marc\u003c/a>, can you make \u003ca>that \u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/11/orange_cake.html\">Orange Cake\u003c/a>?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9393.JPG\">\u003cbr>Paul Hendry carving with \u003ca href=\"http://meathenge.com/\">Guy\u003c/a>'s lucky carving knife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the last minute you have to change locations. People you've never met offer their industrial palatial estate. In between dinner and dessert one of the hosts, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartnagel.com/\">a distinguished professional photographer\u003c/a>, takes portaits of all the guests! The kitchen crew of three gets shot jumping in the air. (All photos from the session will be made public shortly; link will be posted on \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/\">Eggbeater\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9374.JPG\">\u003cbr>Molten hazelnut-cocoa nib \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/11/baking-classes-caramel-as-subject.jsp\">brittle\u003c/a> garnish for pot de creme made on site by Shuna and \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/02/dumplingsorama.html\">David Byron\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9411.JPG\">\u003cbr>Marc's \u003ca href=\"http://brandoesq.blogspot.com/2006/07/exoticorange.html\">orange cakes\u003c/a> & caramel sauce plated with David & Shuna's gianduja pot de creme.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9412.JPG\">\u003cbr>\"The Kitchen Crew\" Jessica Wilson, David Byron, and Shuna Lydon (not pictured) at the head of the table happily eating dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though the event tires you out you would do it again. Twenty-four people gather, make the seasonal side dishes you were craving, and bring wine and beverages from all over the map. You make new friends, have a number of inspiring conversations, banter and laugh, navigating a foreign kitchen, and everyone eats the German Holiday Feast of your making, from your heart and imaginings.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9358.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every year you have the same holiday dinners. Turkey for this, ham for that. An odd crown roast or duck and maybe cedar plank fish if you have a house in the country. You like the same side dishes to go with these main proteins. With some meals a mixture of sweet and savory gracing the table is important, but sometimes it's all about the salt. Certain holidays are about being American and then there are the ones that remind you of the culture in which you grew up or flavors your grandmother introduced you to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9361.JPG\">\u003cbr>Each cavity stuffed with a different set of aromatics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9363.JPG\">\u003cbr>Goose, bound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You're married or belong to a community or every year you go to a different house for these holidays. Every year is basically the same, except that everyone's a little older, or every other you do what your partner wants. Sometimes you volunteer at your local synagogue or church or soup kitchen and make more food than you thought possible. When you sit down to eat after these days your exhaustion is deeply soul-satisfied with a varied plate of food you let yourself (finally) eat and enjoy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9382.JPG\">\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.elise.com/recipes/\">Elise Bauer\u003c/a> makes her famous \u003ca href=\"http://www.elise.com/recipes/archives/000086cranberry_relish.php\">cranberry-orange relish\u003c/a> at the event.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the year you make dinner parties or bring what the host asks you to make. You shop at the farmers' market differently for these special nights. You pull out your favorite cookbooks and try a new recipe or finesse a favorite from the tried-and-true box. You proudly unfurl your food and wait nervously for people to dig in, hoping beyond hope that what you've made will pass muster and maybe at the end of the night someone asks you for your recipe. You go home feeling warm and full in ways you generally don't after dinner at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9376.JPG\">\u003cbr>Basting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One day you realize you sorely miss a particular holiday dinner you went to year after year. It was German affair complete with goose, red cabbage with chestnuts, a most exquisitely rich pan gravy, \u003ca href=\"http://www.geocities.com/NapaValley/6579/recipes/c8.html\">lebkuchen\u003c/a> and bite-sized marzipan shapes from Berlin. The person who you went with has died, and now every year, at the same time, you miss that goose. Even though you didn't grow up with anyone who ever cooked a goose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9370.JPG\">\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://madeater.blogspot.com/\">Cookiecrumb and Cranky\u003c/a>'s bright and tangy sauerkraut crockpot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9367.JPG\">\u003cbr>Prepping the innards for gravy. (The goose is dense and rich and the gravy begs to be drunk from a glass!)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You have a food blog, or you date someone who has one. You used to cook professionally, or are going to culinary school, or are a professional food writer, or you live in a house the size of a private airplane hanger because you're the most amazing photographer, or you're a meat cooking expert or you have a wine cellar or you're not working right now. You organize a goose making dinner because you realize, in order to satiate this goose-eating-taste-bud appendage you've acquired and now must acknowledge, albeit late in life, you must learn how to cook said animal yourself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9384.JPG\">\u003cbr>Jessica Wilson taking the temperature of the geese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You start talking about the possibility of a German Holiday Feast near actual holidays to your food blogging friends. You plant the seed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A brilliant idea comes to you one night late. February! It's the perfect time for such a dinner. Although you won't get your geese warm from a fresh slaughter as you might near Christmas, you're told all your Bay Area options for goose buying. You're not working much or you're in need of organizing a grand food event. You've \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/02/dumplingsorama.html\">recently been to\u003c/a> a number \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/02/the_bakery_loft.html\">of massive community food gathering undertakings\u003c/a> for which you only showed up as a guest and now it's your time to kick it into gear. You go to you local meat expert, fellow blogger, someone you refer to sweetly as \u003ca href=\"http://www.cyberbilly.com/about.html\">your personal Meat Angel\u003c/a>. You know he's the person to make your first goose with.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9391.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You channel the most organized, bossy side of you. You want to eat what you want. You make a list, asking for people to choose from a list and \"call\" a dish. It reads: \"spaetzle, red cabbage with chestnuts, a green salad (for me what constitutes a salad, in, Feb. is head lettuce, cucumbers and radishes), baked potatoes, something sauerkrauty, steamed broccoli or greens or squash something, raw celery root something, something leeky, cranberry sauce/chutney something, chocolate, marzipan tinted dessert and \u003ca href=\"http://marcsala.blogspot.com/\">Marc\u003c/a>, can you make \u003ca>that \u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/11/orange_cake.html\">Orange Cake\u003c/a>?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9393.JPG\">\u003cbr>Paul Hendry carving with \u003ca href=\"http://meathenge.com/\">Guy\u003c/a>'s lucky carving knife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the last minute you have to change locations. People you've never met offer their industrial palatial estate. In between dinner and dessert one of the hosts, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartnagel.com/\">a distinguished professional photographer\u003c/a>, takes portaits of all the guests! The kitchen crew of three gets shot jumping in the air. (All photos from the session will be made public shortly; link will be posted on \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/\">Eggbeater\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9374.JPG\">\u003cbr>Molten hazelnut-cocoa nib \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/11/baking-classes-caramel-as-subject.jsp\">brittle\u003c/a> garnish for pot de creme made on site by Shuna and \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/02/dumplingsorama.html\">David Byron\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9411.JPG\">\u003cbr>Marc's \u003ca href=\"http://brandoesq.blogspot.com/2006/07/exoticorange.html\">orange cakes\u003c/a> & caramel sauce plated with David & Shuna's gianduja pot de creme.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9412.JPG\">\u003cbr>\"The Kitchen Crew\" Jessica Wilson, David Byron, and Shuna Lydon (not pictured) at the head of the table happily eating dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though the event tires you out you would do it again. 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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_8936.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've just returned home from a week in \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2005/04/why_florida_is_.html\">Boca Raton, Florida\u003c/a>, where I was visiting family. My mother's side, the New York Jews. Besides making \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/02/loxahatchee_nat.html\">the rounds with my aunt\u003c/a>, meeting my cousin's 1 1/2 year old twins and visiting my 86 year old grandmother in her new little apartment at an assisted living facility, it was important to eat a few times at \u003ca href=\"http://www.merchantcircle.com/business/Way.Beyond.Bagels.561-638-1320\">Way Beyond Bagels\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was there that I had my first authentic bagel and lox outside of New York City.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not to mention \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/recipe_views/views/106171\">Black & White Cookie\u003c/a>s, super almond-extracty \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/recipe_views/views/102755\">Rainbow Cake\u003c/a>, a pure, uncut version of \u003ca href=\"http://www.3men.com/allabout.htm\">smoked whitefish\u003c/a> salad, the full line of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bevnet.com/reviews/drbrowns/\">Dr. Brown sodas\u003c/a>, including the intriguing celery pop, and a delightfully familiar, and maybe a little grating, noise of thick lower New York accents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9292.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like any comfort food, when we re-experience it again, it is cause for a celebration and of memories. And like all memories, their arrival is bittersweet. Memories arrive because something's been lost. Or we've moved to a place where our tribe does not band together and make what we grew up with.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_8942.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily I moved mere blocks from \u003ca href=\"http://www.saulsdeli.com/\">Saul's\u003c/a> when I came to live in the East Bay a year ago. It's here I can find chopped liver almost as good as what I remember. When I want to conjure my late grandfather, Samuel Gordon, I buy a few \u003ca href=\"http://www.springfieldsmokedfish.com/types.htm\">chubs\u003c/a> and eat them alone. Shiny and wrinkly gold, the chub arrives wrapped in white paper, with all its parts except for the guts. Smoked whole, they're slick with a distinctly fatty fishy smoky taste and scent. I've never taken part in cold herring from a jar but my legs go weak for smoked fish and I was once graced by homemade \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gefilte_fish\">gefilte fish\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But bagels? It is my ultimate opinion that there are no real bagels in the Bay Area. I have tried and retried them all. I've been cajoled by hopeful and starry eyed non-Jews as well as other deperate New York Jews. Nope, they do not exist here. Just because bread is round does not mean it's a bagel. When a bagel is a bagel, every gram of your being knows it. It's taste and texture, the smell of your grandmother's kitchen. It's whipped butter, freshly sliced red onions, and too much cream cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, nu? I just don't eat them here. I reason to my born-again-Californian self that bagels need to be eaten in their own climate. They need to be in season, and although Northern California is home to many an agricultural delicacy, bagels just do not thrive in this soil. Bagels must be eaten where there is a predominance of kvetching weather, schvitzing heat, and other New York Yids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Way Beyond Bagels cures this homesick itch. Even though it's in Florida.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have a whole carry on bag full of 2 dozen said bread product to prove it. Now it's just a matter of sharing them with those who understand the gravity of such luggage...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_8935.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're looking to cure your Eastern European and/or New York Jewish deli food cravings, I give you this small list of places to start:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.californiastreetdeli.com/\">California Street Deli\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.citysearch.com/profile/863551/san_francisco_ca/moishe_s_pippic_incorporated.html\">Moishe's Pippic\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.saulsdeli.com/\">Saul's Deli & Restaurant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide-2731677-old_krakow_san_francisco-i\">Old Krakow\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or if you want to read more about what those who long for Jewish deli food do in the Bay Area, \u003ca href=\"http://www.themonthly.com/food-02-07.html\">check out this article in The Berkeley Monthly written by John Harris\u003c/a>, a man who has even gone so far as to make a movie about the lost Deli. I'm excited to say I'll be privy to a screening of the movie this Thursday!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_8936.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've just returned home from a week in \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2005/04/why_florida_is_.html\">Boca Raton, Florida\u003c/a>, where I was visiting family. My mother's side, the New York Jews. Besides making \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/02/loxahatchee_nat.html\">the rounds with my aunt\u003c/a>, meeting my cousin's 1 1/2 year old twins and visiting my 86 year old grandmother in her new little apartment at an assisted living facility, it was important to eat a few times at \u003ca href=\"http://www.merchantcircle.com/business/Way.Beyond.Bagels.561-638-1320\">Way Beyond Bagels\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was there that I had my first authentic bagel and lox outside of New York City.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not to mention \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/recipe_views/views/106171\">Black & White Cookie\u003c/a>s, super almond-extracty \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/recipe_views/views/102755\">Rainbow Cake\u003c/a>, a pure, uncut version of \u003ca href=\"http://www.3men.com/allabout.htm\">smoked whitefish\u003c/a> salad, the full line of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bevnet.com/reviews/drbrowns/\">Dr. Brown sodas\u003c/a>, including the intriguing celery pop, and a delightfully familiar, and maybe a little grating, noise of thick lower New York accents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_9292.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like any comfort food, when we re-experience it again, it is cause for a celebration and of memories. And like all memories, their arrival is bittersweet. Memories arrive because something's been lost. Or we've moved to a place where our tribe does not band together and make what we grew up with.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_8942.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily I moved mere blocks from \u003ca href=\"http://www.saulsdeli.com/\">Saul's\u003c/a> when I came to live in the East Bay a year ago. It's here I can find chopped liver almost as good as what I remember. When I want to conjure my late grandfather, Samuel Gordon, I buy a few \u003ca href=\"http://www.springfieldsmokedfish.com/types.htm\">chubs\u003c/a> and eat them alone. Shiny and wrinkly gold, the chub arrives wrapped in white paper, with all its parts except for the guts. Smoked whole, they're slick with a distinctly fatty fishy smoky taste and scent. I've never taken part in cold herring from a jar but my legs go weak for smoked fish and I was once graced by homemade \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gefilte_fish\">gefilte fish\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But bagels? It is my ultimate opinion that there are no real bagels in the Bay Area. I have tried and retried them all. I've been cajoled by hopeful and starry eyed non-Jews as well as other deperate New York Jews. Nope, they do not exist here. Just because bread is round does not mean it's a bagel. When a bagel is a bagel, every gram of your being knows it. It's taste and texture, the smell of your grandmother's kitchen. It's whipped butter, freshly sliced red onions, and too much cream cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, nu? I just don't eat them here. I reason to my born-again-Californian self that bagels need to be eaten in their own climate. They need to be in season, and although Northern California is home to many an agricultural delicacy, bagels just do not thrive in this soil. Bagels must be eaten where there is a predominance of kvetching weather, schvitzing heat, and other New York Yids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Way Beyond Bagels cures this homesick itch. Even though it's in Florida.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have a whole carry on bag full of 2 dozen said bread product to prove it. Now it's just a matter of sharing them with those who understand the gravity of such luggage...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_8935.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're looking to cure your Eastern European and/or New York Jewish deli food cravings, I give you this small list of places to start:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.californiastreetdeli.com/\">California Street Deli\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.citysearch.com/profile/863551/san_francisco_ca/moishe_s_pippic_incorporated.html\">Moishe's Pippic\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.saulsdeli.com/\">Saul's Deli & Restaurant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide-2731677-old_krakow_san_francisco-i\">Old Krakow\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or if you want to read more about what those who long for Jewish deli food do in the Bay Area, \u003ca href=\"http://www.themonthly.com/food-02-07.html\">check out this article in The Berkeley Monthly written by John Harris\u003c/a>, a man who has even gone so far as to make a movie about the lost Deli. I'm excited to say I'll be privy to a screening of the movie this Thursday!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>I'm new to TV watching. But I have taken to it like a parched and thirsty fish. In the last few years it has saved me from my head, often a bad neighborhood to inhabit alone. Armed with an inherited television set equipped with an internal VCR and DVD player, this brain drug of a machine has kept me company a lot in the last few years. To this end I have joined other Americans in following a number of series' and caught up on movies that have defined my modern cultural generation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For years I have been repeating this sentence, \"Oh no, I didn't see that, I haven't heard of that, I wasn't aware of that, because I have been working.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mother said years ago I could have made the best jury member on the OJ Simpson case, because I knew absolutely nothing about it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few months ago I was given an innocuous little shiny disk labeled, Escape To River Cottage, and only remember the odd tidbit about what it could be about. Good thing I did not start watching it until just the other night. A person has to have a life which includes leaving the house, making supper, taking the legs out for a stretch, and interacting with other live human beings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you like to eat, are interested in where your food comes, have ever entertained the idea of forsaking city living and planting a garden from which you will plan meals around, enjoy the feeling your face gets when an unplanned smile emerges, like a dash of English humor, and think a show involving cooking and eating could be something other than staged, perfect, indoors, and inane to the point of \"lowest common denominator\" script writing, you must get ahold of any part of these series now and watch it with someone you like!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The liner notes from \u003ca href=\"http://www.tv.com/search.php?qs=escape+to+river+cottage&type=11&stype=all&tag=search%3Bbutton&om_act=convert&om_clk=searchsh\">TV.com\u003c/a>:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstal has decided to quit the bustle of London and take on the life of a smallholder at River Cottage, a former gamekeeper's cottage in Dorset. The aim is self-sufficiency; to grow his own vegetables and raise his own animals for food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is addictive in the best sense of the word!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The word on the street is that I have only just begun. A quick perusement on the www comes up with a fantastic \u003ca href=\"http://www.bbc.co.uk/dorset/content/articles/2004/10/29/hugh_fearnly_qa.shtml\">interview with Mr. Fearnley-Whittingstal himself\u003c/a>. Then there's the \u003ca href=\"http://www.rivercottage.net/Default.aspx\">River Cottage website\u003c/a>, complete with appropriate page links and a whole page devoted to those behind the delicious scenes. \u003ca href=\"http://www.channel4.com/life/microsites/R/rivercottage/\">Channel 4 talks up\u003c/a> their baby as well, and then there's the dangerous list of \u003ca href=\"http://shopping.kelkoo.co.uk/b/a/ss_river_cottage_-_series_3_forever.html\">all the titles\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's still winter, even in the Bay Area, go ahead, get a few disks and hole up for the weekend. But be sure to have some farmers' market snacks around. You may not be hungry for bridge mix or chips and salsa after watching an episode end with recently culled and butchered pidgeon in B'steeya, cold pike en gelee, or Hugh's first hen egg whipped up into a quick courgette souffle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're one of those new fans for whom doing things halfway is not an option, you may choose to \u003ca href=\"http://becksposhnosh.blogspot.com/2007/02/recipe-tester-roundup-for-january-2007.html\">cook up some of this fellow's food right away\u003c/a> by heading over to our own local British Gourmand, Sam, of \u003ca href=\"http://becksposhnosh.blogspot.com/\">Becks and Posh\u003c/a>, as she has cooked up one of \u003ca href=\"http://www.rivercottage.net/Content.aspx?pid=65\">Mr. Fearnley-Whittingstal\u003c/a>'s recipes, from his most recent River Cottage Meat Book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Feel free to come back to Bay Area Bites and let me know if I have steered you right!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>I'm new to TV watching. But I have taken to it like a parched and thirsty fish. In the last few years it has saved me from my head, often a bad neighborhood to inhabit alone. Armed with an inherited television set equipped with an internal VCR and DVD player, this brain drug of a machine has kept me company a lot in the last few years. To this end I have joined other Americans in following a number of series' and caught up on movies that have defined my modern cultural generation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For years I have been repeating this sentence, \"Oh no, I didn't see that, I haven't heard of that, I wasn't aware of that, because I have been working.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mother said years ago I could have made the best jury member on the OJ Simpson case, because I knew absolutely nothing about it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few months ago I was given an innocuous little shiny disk labeled, Escape To River Cottage, and only remember the odd tidbit about what it could be about. Good thing I did not start watching it until just the other night. A person has to have a life which includes leaving the house, making supper, taking the legs out for a stretch, and interacting with other live human beings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you like to eat, are interested in where your food comes, have ever entertained the idea of forsaking city living and planting a garden from which you will plan meals around, enjoy the feeling your face gets when an unplanned smile emerges, like a dash of English humor, and think a show involving cooking and eating could be something other than staged, perfect, indoors, and inane to the point of \"lowest common denominator\" script writing, you must get ahold of any part of these series now and watch it with someone you like!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The liner notes from \u003ca href=\"http://www.tv.com/search.php?qs=escape+to+river+cottage&type=11&stype=all&tag=search%3Bbutton&om_act=convert&om_clk=searchsh\">TV.com\u003c/a>:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstal has decided to quit the bustle of London and take on the life of a smallholder at River Cottage, a former gamekeeper's cottage in Dorset. The aim is self-sufficiency; to grow his own vegetables and raise his own animals for food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is addictive in the best sense of the word!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The word on the street is that I have only just begun. A quick perusement on the www comes up with a fantastic \u003ca href=\"http://www.bbc.co.uk/dorset/content/articles/2004/10/29/hugh_fearnly_qa.shtml\">interview with Mr. Fearnley-Whittingstal himself\u003c/a>. Then there's the \u003ca href=\"http://www.rivercottage.net/Default.aspx\">River Cottage website\u003c/a>, complete with appropriate page links and a whole page devoted to those behind the delicious scenes. \u003ca href=\"http://www.channel4.com/life/microsites/R/rivercottage/\">Channel 4 talks up\u003c/a> their baby as well, and then there's the dangerous list of \u003ca href=\"http://shopping.kelkoo.co.uk/b/a/ss_river_cottage_-_series_3_forever.html\">all the titles\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's still winter, even in the Bay Area, go ahead, get a few disks and hole up for the weekend. But be sure to have some farmers' market snacks around. You may not be hungry for bridge mix or chips and salsa after watching an episode end with recently culled and butchered pidgeon in B'steeya, cold pike en gelee, or Hugh's first hen egg whipped up into a quick courgette souffle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're one of those new fans for whom doing things halfway is not an option, you may choose to \u003ca href=\"http://becksposhnosh.blogspot.com/2007/02/recipe-tester-roundup-for-january-2007.html\">cook up some of this fellow's food right away\u003c/a> by heading over to our own local British Gourmand, Sam, of \u003ca href=\"http://becksposhnosh.blogspot.com/\">Becks and Posh\u003c/a>, as she has cooked up one of \u003ca href=\"http://www.rivercottage.net/Content.aspx?pid=65\">Mr. Fearnley-Whittingstal\u003c/a>'s recipes, from his most recent River Cottage Meat Book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Feel free to come back to Bay Area Bites and let me know if I have steered you right!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Coriander Cream, or, A Flavor You Would Not Expect To Be Tasty Sweet",
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"content": "\u003cp>When I'm in the kitchen I like to think about individual ingredients and their personalities. If this peach were a person what would she be like? Would she be my friend or would she be so famous she'd have nothing to do with the likes of me? How would you approach Swiss meringue if she were alone at a bar? Would you be daunted by her smooth sexiness? Or would you blush at her purring demure voice?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's the first word that comes to mind when I say coriander?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bold? Famous? Dashing? Shy? Awkward? Cavalier?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Can you describe what coriander tastes like? All alone, on its own?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If coriander was a musician it might be a base player in a good-looking band. It might not have a lot of stage presence but it would have a quiet following of smart girls. Bohemian. After the show it would smoke some all-natural cigarettes. Coriander, in fact, would probably take the time to roll its own little cigarettes, leaning back in its signature black turtleneck, nodding its floppy haired head.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course I'm talking about dried coriander. What we Californians call cilantro is another story, a whole other personality altogether. A livelier fellow indeed!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because coriander is rarely found as a singled out flavor, but mostly as a back up singer or an under layer in an oil painting, its flavor profile is difficult to distinguish. We add ground coriander to Moroccan dishes where a number of spices are used to build a sauce. It is a necessary ingredient in most curries. A building-block spice. It makes other spices taste deeper, sweeter, more themselves. But because coriander is often used with cumin, cinnamon and other strong spice personalities, finding the soul of this back seat spice is one for a dedicated culinary detective.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/01/redwood-hill-goat-yogurt-granite-or.jsp\">a recent menu I designed\u003c/a> I wanted to create an apple dessert that didn't taste like all the apple desserts I see and eat. Omitting cinnamon is the first way to set a sweet apple concoction apart. But apples do like being sidled up next to spices. Cooking apples in caramel is lovely, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.ferryplazafarmersmarket.com/seasonality/recipes/desserts/dess_fw3.php\">sauteing apples in rosemary caramel\u003c/a> is exquisite. The first time I tasted coriander in a dessert was almost 15 years ago at \u003ca href=\"http://chefdb.com/nm/8427/\">231 Ellsworth when Phil Ogiela\u003c/a> was their pastry chef. My mouth had a coriander tapioca epiphany and it is possible I was never the same afterwards. Ever after since I tried to find ways to incorporate the oft forgotten coriander into desserts I created.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because there are few who do not like whipped cream with a warm apple dessert, I created Coriander Chantilly to both satisfy this comforting pairing, but also to introduce the coriander-as-sweet cynical to its delightful singular self.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think it strange? What will you do with this bizarre recipe?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Give coriander, the background flavor, a chance to surprise you with its malleability, its chamelionesque-ness, its warm, sweet, subtly spicy personality. Ask this seeming wallflower to dance, I promise you will not be wasting your time, or your newly polished shoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>CORIANDER CREAM\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 Tablespoons Coriander Seeds\u003cbr>2 C Heavy Cream, not ultra pasteurized\u003cbr>1/2 Cup Sugar, or to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Toast coriander seeds in a small, non-reactive saucepan over very low flame.\u003cbr>2. When toasted, add 1 1/4 cups cream and sugar.\u003cbr>3. When cream is hot to the touch, whisk briefly and shut off heat and steep for one hour.\u003cbr>4. After steeping, turn on heat and get hot again. Do not boil!\u003cbr>5. Starting at a low setting, puree mixture in a blender. At the fastest setting, blend for a full two minutes.\u003cbr>6. Strain through a fine meshed sieve into a bowl with the other 3/4 cup cold cream. Using a spoon, press out as much of the infused cream from the solids as possible.\u003cbr>7. Chill over an ice bath or in the fridge, uncovered until cold to the touch.\u003cbr>8. Whip cream until desired stiffness, or keep as a liquid to pour over, English-style, any dessert you wish to.\u003cbr>Once chilled, coriander cream will keep, refrigerated, in a tightly covered non-reactive container for 10 days or until the date on the cream carton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coriander cream would be delicious paired with pears, apples, quince, persimmons, sweet squash preparations, and any desserts made with flaky, buttery pastry like pies, turnovers, crisps, and shortbread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoy something new and strange and delicious!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When I'm in the kitchen I like to think about individual ingredients and their personalities. If this peach were a person what would she be like? Would she be my friend or would she be so famous she'd have nothing to do with the likes of me? How would you approach Swiss meringue if she were alone at a bar? Would you be daunted by her smooth sexiness? Or would you blush at her purring demure voice?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's the first word that comes to mind when I say coriander?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bold? Famous? Dashing? Shy? Awkward? Cavalier?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Can you describe what coriander tastes like? All alone, on its own?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If coriander was a musician it might be a base player in a good-looking band. It might not have a lot of stage presence but it would have a quiet following of smart girls. Bohemian. After the show it would smoke some all-natural cigarettes. Coriander, in fact, would probably take the time to roll its own little cigarettes, leaning back in its signature black turtleneck, nodding its floppy haired head.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course I'm talking about dried coriander. What we Californians call cilantro is another story, a whole other personality altogether. A livelier fellow indeed!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because coriander is rarely found as a singled out flavor, but mostly as a back up singer or an under layer in an oil painting, its flavor profile is difficult to distinguish. We add ground coriander to Moroccan dishes where a number of spices are used to build a sauce. It is a necessary ingredient in most curries. A building-block spice. It makes other spices taste deeper, sweeter, more themselves. But because coriander is often used with cumin, cinnamon and other strong spice personalities, finding the soul of this back seat spice is one for a dedicated culinary detective.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/01/redwood-hill-goat-yogurt-granite-or.jsp\">a recent menu I designed\u003c/a> I wanted to create an apple dessert that didn't taste like all the apple desserts I see and eat. Omitting cinnamon is the first way to set a sweet apple concoction apart. But apples do like being sidled up next to spices. Cooking apples in caramel is lovely, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.ferryplazafarmersmarket.com/seasonality/recipes/desserts/dess_fw3.php\">sauteing apples in rosemary caramel\u003c/a> is exquisite. The first time I tasted coriander in a dessert was almost 15 years ago at \u003ca href=\"http://chefdb.com/nm/8427/\">231 Ellsworth when Phil Ogiela\u003c/a> was their pastry chef. My mouth had a coriander tapioca epiphany and it is possible I was never the same afterwards. Ever after since I tried to find ways to incorporate the oft forgotten coriander into desserts I created.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because there are few who do not like whipped cream with a warm apple dessert, I created Coriander Chantilly to both satisfy this comforting pairing, but also to introduce the coriander-as-sweet cynical to its delightful singular self.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think it strange? What will you do with this bizarre recipe?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Give coriander, the background flavor, a chance to surprise you with its malleability, its chamelionesque-ness, its warm, sweet, subtly spicy personality. Ask this seeming wallflower to dance, I promise you will not be wasting your time, or your newly polished shoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>CORIANDER CREAM\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 Tablespoons Coriander Seeds\u003cbr>2 C Heavy Cream, not ultra pasteurized\u003cbr>1/2 Cup Sugar, or to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Toast coriander seeds in a small, non-reactive saucepan over very low flame.\u003cbr>2. When toasted, add 1 1/4 cups cream and sugar.\u003cbr>3. When cream is hot to the touch, whisk briefly and shut off heat and steep for one hour.\u003cbr>4. After steeping, turn on heat and get hot again. Do not boil!\u003cbr>5. Starting at a low setting, puree mixture in a blender. At the fastest setting, blend for a full two minutes.\u003cbr>6. Strain through a fine meshed sieve into a bowl with the other 3/4 cup cold cream. Using a spoon, press out as much of the infused cream from the solids as possible.\u003cbr>7. Chill over an ice bath or in the fridge, uncovered until cold to the touch.\u003cbr>8. Whip cream until desired stiffness, or keep as a liquid to pour over, English-style, any dessert you wish to.\u003cbr>Once chilled, coriander cream will keep, refrigerated, in a tightly covered non-reactive container for 10 days or until the date on the cream carton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coriander cream would be delicious paired with pears, apples, quince, persimmons, sweet squash preparations, and any desserts made with flaky, buttery pastry like pies, turnovers, crisps, and shortbread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoy something new and strange and delicious!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"soldout": {
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"title": "SOLD OUT: Rethinking Housing in America",
"tagline": "A new future for housing",
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