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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/slideluckpotshow_main_logo-755994.gif\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/slideluckpotshow_main_logo-755992.gif\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003cp>This past weekend many of my favorite activities came together under one roof for \u003ca href=\"http://slideluckpotshow.com/sanfrancisco.php\">one night only in San Francisco\u003c/a>. On Saturday August 12, from 7 - 9 PM \u003ca href=\"http://slideluckpotshow.com/index.php\">Slideluckpotshow\u003c/a> brought handmade food, art, artists, friendliness, beautiful thought-provoking images, eating new things, seeing old friends and making new ones, giddy excitement at the spontaneousness of it all, and deeply inspiring ideas about creating community together. It met me when I left the just cooling breeze of San Francisco's dusk and entered the vast white space that is \u003ca href=\"http://www.sandboxstudio.com/\">Sandbox Studios\u003c/a> on Minnesota Street. \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/08/slideluckpotsho.html\">Slideluckpotshow met all my expectations\u003c/a> and then far exceeded them in a few minutes, when, after arriving too early with my carpool, put me to \"work\" being a 20 minute volunteer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time I read about Slideluckpotshow was in \u003ca href=\"http://slideluckpotshow.com/index2.php?PageName=press\">Time Out NY\u003c/a> on a trip there. I kicked myself for not thinking of the brilliant idea myself. And then I wished I still lived in New York City. Well, for a minute, at any rate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recently, via Marcia of \u003ca href=\"http://www.tablehopper.com/\">Tablehopper\u003c/a> and through an odd series of random emails, all mere days before the event, I heard that Slideluckpotshow was coming to my fine, fair city. I could barely contain myself long enough to think about what dish I might create to welcome Slideluckpotshow's founder \u003ca href=\"http://heyhotshot.com/blog/2006/06/05/an-interview-with-casey-kelbaugh/\">Casey Kelbaugh\u003c/a> and his crew. How could I convince them to come to SF again? How could I gather all the troops possibly interested in coming to an event displaying such an incredible amalgamation of ideas?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's true, \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/groups/35034356356@N01/discuss/72157600694209134/\">Slideluckpotshow had little advertising\u003c/a>. Until I posted the information on eggbeater no one I knew had heard of it or realized they were coming SF at all. Which is really unfortunate, because it was right up our alley!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The requirements for attending for Slideluckpotshow were easy. Make \u003ca href=\"http://slideluckpotshow.com/index2.php?PageName=recipes\">food\u003c/a> (I made enough for 30 people but most people made enough for about 12, depending on the portion size), or bring really good dishes from a reputable prepared-food vending source. Make or bring great beverages. If the first two are not possible, give a good donation at the door. {My friend DB gave $10.} Come hungry at least a few minutes, or up to 2 hours, before the slide-show. Be prepared to sit on the ground if you don't get there early enough to nab a seat in a chair or on a comfy couch. Wear the eye glasses you do for watching a movie, if needed. Enter a small body of images for the show and make the deadline. Or don't submit \"slides\" but be prepared for seeing/ experiencing a wide range of aesthetics and mediums projected on a 20 foot screen via an Apple computer. There were two sections of the slide show, each running at about an hour, with an intermission in the middle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite artists from Saturday night's SF showing are the following:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.jessicarosen.com/T001.html\">Jessica Rosen\u003c/a>'s powerful images of transsexual women in Brazil, high contrast, slightly ironic (fashion or not?) portraits by \u003ca href=\"http://www.olivierlaude.com/\">Olivier Laude\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://jonathansolo.tribe.net/\">Jonathan Solo\u003c/a>'s graphite pencil work wherein he, \"collages the drawings... to create meta-feminine/masculine figures from a fantastical assemblage of physical characteristics.\" There were two artists whose photographic \u003ca href=\"http://www.hsfoto.com/portfolio.htm\">documentation of America's wars\u003c/a> in Iraq and Afghanistan reached into my core, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.hsfoto.com/biography.htm\">Heidi Schumann\u003c/a>'s images and astute interplay between sound (all the slide-sets were accompanied by music of the artist's choice) rendered me speechless. Although it's difficult to pick a favorite set and artist, I will. \u003ca href=\"http://www.gasperak.com/\">Tim Gasperak\u003c/a> contributed a series of photographs stark, detailed, evocative, lovely and textured from two series, \u003ca href=\"http://www.gasperak.com/gallery/iceland/14.php\">Mystery of Iceland\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.gasperak.com/gallery/landscapes/12.php\">Isolated Landscapes\u003c/a>. Even \u003ca href=\"http://www.gasperak.com/about/\">his bio\u003c/a> is well written.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What did I make for the pot-luck? A fruit salad composed of the juiciest, most absolute ripe beyond ripe farmers' market fruit. Something similar to \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/08/gazpacho-shuna-athens-late-summer.jsp\">Shuna & Athen's Famous Gazpacho\u003c/a>. A quick photo of the finished bowl can be found \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/aranyamei/1091965526/\">by clicking on this link\u003c/a>. From my assembled posse there was also a beautiful pecan-peach cake made by \u003ca href=\"http://marcsala.blogspot.com/\">Marc,\u003c/a> and a clean squid and broad bean salad made by none other than \u003ca href=\"http://www.inpraiseofsardines.com/\">Brett\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slideluckpotshow could not be a better event for me: a chef with over 10 years of fine art training and a BFA in photography. If you're a person who appreciates Open Studios or museums, \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=slideluckpotshow&w=all\">Flickr\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.jpgmag.com/\">JPG\u003c/a>, or just the occasional food porn photograph, this is an event I beg of you to attend if \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/aranyamei/1091107155/\">it comes to a wide open room\u003c/a> near you.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The requirements for attending for Slideluckpotshow were easy. Make \u003ca href=\"http://slideluckpotshow.com/index2.php?PageName=recipes\">food\u003c/a> (I made enough for 30 people but most people made enough for about 12, depending on the portion size), or bring really good dishes from a reputable prepared-food vending source. Make or bring great beverages. If the first two are not possible, give a good donation at the door. {My friend DB gave $10.} Come hungry at least a few minutes, or up to 2 hours, before the slide-show. Be prepared to sit on the ground if you don't get there early enough to nab a seat in a chair or on a comfy couch. Wear the eye glasses you do for watching a movie, if needed. Enter a small body of images for the show and make the deadline. Or don't submit \"slides\" but be prepared for seeing/ experiencing a wide range of aesthetics and mediums projected on a 20 foot screen via an Apple computer. There were two sections of the slide show, each running at about an hour, with an intermission in the middle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite artists from Saturday night's SF showing are the following:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.jessicarosen.com/T001.html\">Jessica Rosen\u003c/a>'s powerful images of transsexual women in Brazil, high contrast, slightly ironic (fashion or not?) portraits by \u003ca href=\"http://www.olivierlaude.com/\">Olivier Laude\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://jonathansolo.tribe.net/\">Jonathan Solo\u003c/a>'s graphite pencil work wherein he, \"collages the drawings... to create meta-feminine/masculine figures from a fantastical assemblage of physical characteristics.\" There were two artists whose photographic \u003ca href=\"http://www.hsfoto.com/portfolio.htm\">documentation of America's wars\u003c/a> in Iraq and Afghanistan reached into my core, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.hsfoto.com/biography.htm\">Heidi Schumann\u003c/a>'s images and astute interplay between sound (all the slide-sets were accompanied by music of the artist's choice) rendered me speechless. Although it's difficult to pick a favorite set and artist, I will. \u003ca href=\"http://www.gasperak.com/\">Tim Gasperak\u003c/a> contributed a series of photographs stark, detailed, evocative, lovely and textured from two series, \u003ca href=\"http://www.gasperak.com/gallery/iceland/14.php\">Mystery of Iceland\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.gasperak.com/gallery/landscapes/12.php\">Isolated Landscapes\u003c/a>. Even \u003ca href=\"http://www.gasperak.com/about/\">his bio\u003c/a> is well written.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What did I make for the pot-luck? A fruit salad composed of the juiciest, most absolute ripe beyond ripe farmers' market fruit. Something similar to \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/08/gazpacho-shuna-athens-late-summer.jsp\">Shuna & Athen's Famous Gazpacho\u003c/a>. A quick photo of the finished bowl can be found \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/aranyamei/1091965526/\">by clicking on this link\u003c/a>. From my assembled posse there was also a beautiful pecan-peach cake made by \u003ca href=\"http://marcsala.blogspot.com/\">Marc,\u003c/a> and a clean squid and broad bean salad made by none other than \u003ca href=\"http://www.inpraiseofsardines.com/\">Brett\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slideluckpotshow could not be a better event for me: a chef with over 10 years of fine art training and a BFA in photography. If you're a person who appreciates Open Studios or museums, \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=slideluckpotshow&w=all\">Flickr\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.jpgmag.com/\">JPG\u003c/a>, or just the occasional food porn photograph, this is an event I beg of you to attend if \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/aranyamei/1091107155/\">it comes to a wide open room\u003c/a> near you.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Love is in the air: peaches are here, and all is right with the world. Yes, my sunglasses are rose- tinted, why do you ask?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been on the road, taking my show with me. First NYC, then Portland and most recently, Chicago. It's been fun, educational, hot, and delicious, but I've missed being home. Home is where the peaches are. Home is where I know the season's signage at my local farmers' market is. I wait and pine for strawberries, cherries soon follow, and after cherries, O Glorious stone fruit arrives, bang! a cornucopia drops out of the sky and lands on my head! It's fast. It's furious. And no one can keep up. Chefs and pastry chefs change menus daily, attempting to think of newfangled dishes to highlight summer's overwhelming, non-stop conveyor belt of tree fruit to farm, to market. It's all about pitting and prepping and ripening, and those of us who really care, trying to keep our fruit out of walk-ins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We want our diners to get a taste of what we felt when scooping up the first apricots, felt their soft downy skin and licked our chins attempting to keep every last drop of apricot nectar, spilling out like the well which \u003ca href=\"http://disney.go.com/vault/archives/movies/fantasia/fantasia.html\">Micky and the sinister brooms\u003c/a> let loose in the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This past weekend I had the extraordinary pleasure of working for my favorite peach farmer, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_91.php\">Carl Rosato of Woodleaf Farm\u003c/a>. On \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/08/woodleaf-carl-r.html\">Saturday and Sunday I joined an exceptional crew\u003c/a> to sell August's first Cassie peaches, pears, a few undercover Pink Pearl Apples (!!!), tiny sweet green grapes, red pears, mixed figs, white peaches, a dozen or so nectarines and Suncrest peaches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cassie peaches, in my humble opinion, are a reason for living.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While working at the markets this weekend I gave out a lot of peach advice. Peach advice for ripening, baking, storing, freezing, jamming, eating, and handling. I received a funny email, in fact, from my friend \u003ca href=\"http://www.cyberbilly.com/about.html\">Guy\u003c/a> today,\u003cbr> \"That was cool running in to you yesterday, selling peaches. Can't imagine what the customers though when they asked, 'Do you have any good ideas what to do with them?' AHAHHAHAH.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A fruit-inspired pastry chef could not be happier having a job wherein he was surrounded by exquisite fruit all the day long. Fruit is an exciting field of study because not all fruit is created equal. One must know the inner workings of the family of fruit when one approaches a new branch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some fruit must always be picked unripe from the tree, the best example being pears. Certain fruits will continue to ripen off the tree, two examples are pineapples, and most stone fruit. There are cranky fruits who do not like to be picked with a machine, cherries, for example. And there are laid back fruits which can go either way, they're easy, like oranges or walnuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peaches will ripen off the tree, on your counter, if you so wish. A good farmer will pick fruit right at the moment where she/he can get it to market looking alright and then allow the eater to ripen it a bit more to get it where it's desired. Many fruits will get softer but not sweeter if picked too early; mangoes are a great example of a fruit whose perfume is stolen when picked green or green-ish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This weekend, in the midst of excitedly talking a mile-a-minute about peaches, I heard some great peach advice from customers. My favorite tidbit came from a fellow at the San Rafael market in Marin named Patrick. It made me stop dead in my tracks and so I wanted to share it with y'all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What works for me, and so I share it with others is this: place peaches shoulder side down (aka \"stem end\"), on a flat surface, at room temperature, just until there's a bit of give under the skin, then refrigerate or eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Patrick had a brilliant idea. Refrigerate peaches/stone fruit all at once and take out, placing on counter (or plate) as I've described, a few days before eating. Refrigerating fruit at home, (as opposed to the massive cold storage facilities in the \"produce stream\" wherein \"refrigerators\" are the size of private airplane hangers and temperatures are kept between 30-34F), means the fruit's ripening process is slowed down, but not stopped. With Patrick's method you don't have a lot of really ripe fruit in the fridge at once. And, also, you horde a some power over the ripening process, therefore giving yourself more time to relax, find recipes you love, and do with that fruit what you want without the pressure of doing that right now!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patrick's method also allows you to buy a little more fruit than you might need or want to consume in one day or week. (Which of course makes the farmers happy.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every peach is a snowflake. \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/plumcots-apriums-pluots-and-their.jsp\">Every varietal is different\u003c/a>, every farm growing a particular varietal grows them differently. Every soil and location and method will produce a different peach. Every tree on in that orchard growing that peach will ripen and concentrate its sugars and acids differently. Depending on how much of one kind a farmer has, and which market they're selling them at, will determine or \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/07/cost-of-flavorful-peach.jsp\">fetch a different price.\u003c/a> And every mouth eating that peach like a snowflake will react to it differently.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We all know at what point exactly we like to eat a banana. Even within one family each member will like a slightly more or less green specimen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My Peach Advice? Jot down the names and details of the peaches and the farmers with whom you interacted with this year so that next year you will leap at the chance to buy your favorites, have mouth notes from which to comparison shop/eat, and ripen gently and slowly the fruit you choose to buy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you see me selling peaches, please stop by and say hello, I'd love to expound further, or just introduce you to my favorite fruit!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Love is in the air: peaches are here, and all is right with the world. Yes, my sunglasses are rose- tinted, why do you ask?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been on the road, taking my show with me. First NYC, then Portland and most recently, Chicago. It's been fun, educational, hot, and delicious, but I've missed being home. Home is where the peaches are. Home is where I know the season's signage at my local farmers' market is. I wait and pine for strawberries, cherries soon follow, and after cherries, O Glorious stone fruit arrives, bang! a cornucopia drops out of the sky and lands on my head! It's fast. It's furious. And no one can keep up. Chefs and pastry chefs change menus daily, attempting to think of newfangled dishes to highlight summer's overwhelming, non-stop conveyor belt of tree fruit to farm, to market. It's all about pitting and prepping and ripening, and those of us who really care, trying to keep our fruit out of walk-ins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We want our diners to get a taste of what we felt when scooping up the first apricots, felt their soft downy skin and licked our chins attempting to keep every last drop of apricot nectar, spilling out like the well which \u003ca href=\"http://disney.go.com/vault/archives/movies/fantasia/fantasia.html\">Micky and the sinister brooms\u003c/a> let loose in the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This past weekend I had the extraordinary pleasure of working for my favorite peach farmer, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_91.php\">Carl Rosato of Woodleaf Farm\u003c/a>. On \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/08/woodleaf-carl-r.html\">Saturday and Sunday I joined an exceptional crew\u003c/a> to sell August's first Cassie peaches, pears, a few undercover Pink Pearl Apples (!!!), tiny sweet green grapes, red pears, mixed figs, white peaches, a dozen or so nectarines and Suncrest peaches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cassie peaches, in my humble opinion, are a reason for living.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While working at the markets this weekend I gave out a lot of peach advice. Peach advice for ripening, baking, storing, freezing, jamming, eating, and handling. I received a funny email, in fact, from my friend \u003ca href=\"http://www.cyberbilly.com/about.html\">Guy\u003c/a> today,\u003cbr> \"That was cool running in to you yesterday, selling peaches. Can't imagine what the customers though when they asked, 'Do you have any good ideas what to do with them?' AHAHHAHAH.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A fruit-inspired pastry chef could not be happier having a job wherein he was surrounded by exquisite fruit all the day long. Fruit is an exciting field of study because not all fruit is created equal. One must know the inner workings of the family of fruit when one approaches a new branch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some fruit must always be picked unripe from the tree, the best example being pears. Certain fruits will continue to ripen off the tree, two examples are pineapples, and most stone fruit. There are cranky fruits who do not like to be picked with a machine, cherries, for example. And there are laid back fruits which can go either way, they're easy, like oranges or walnuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peaches will ripen off the tree, on your counter, if you so wish. A good farmer will pick fruit right at the moment where she/he can get it to market looking alright and then allow the eater to ripen it a bit more to get it where it's desired. Many fruits will get softer but not sweeter if picked too early; mangoes are a great example of a fruit whose perfume is stolen when picked green or green-ish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This weekend, in the midst of excitedly talking a mile-a-minute about peaches, I heard some great peach advice from customers. My favorite tidbit came from a fellow at the San Rafael market in Marin named Patrick. It made me stop dead in my tracks and so I wanted to share it with y'all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What works for me, and so I share it with others is this: place peaches shoulder side down (aka \"stem end\"), on a flat surface, at room temperature, just until there's a bit of give under the skin, then refrigerate or eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Patrick had a brilliant idea. Refrigerate peaches/stone fruit all at once and take out, placing on counter (or plate) as I've described, a few days before eating. Refrigerating fruit at home, (as opposed to the massive cold storage facilities in the \"produce stream\" wherein \"refrigerators\" are the size of private airplane hangers and temperatures are kept between 30-34F), means the fruit's ripening process is slowed down, but not stopped. With Patrick's method you don't have a lot of really ripe fruit in the fridge at once. And, also, you horde a some power over the ripening process, therefore giving yourself more time to relax, find recipes you love, and do with that fruit what you want without the pressure of doing that right now!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patrick's method also allows you to buy a little more fruit than you might need or want to consume in one day or week. (Which of course makes the farmers happy.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every peach is a snowflake. \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/plumcots-apriums-pluots-and-their.jsp\">Every varietal is different\u003c/a>, every farm growing a particular varietal grows them differently. Every soil and location and method will produce a different peach. Every tree on in that orchard growing that peach will ripen and concentrate its sugars and acids differently. Depending on how much of one kind a farmer has, and which market they're selling them at, will determine or \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/07/cost-of-flavorful-peach.jsp\">fetch a different price.\u003c/a> And every mouth eating that peach like a snowflake will react to it differently.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We all know at what point exactly we like to eat a banana. Even within one family each member will like a slightly more or less green specimen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My Peach Advice? Jot down the names and details of the peaches and the farmers with whom you interacted with this year so that next year you will leap at the chance to buy your favorites, have mouth notes from which to comparison shop/eat, and ripen gently and slowly the fruit you choose to buy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you see me selling peaches, please stop by and say hello, I'd love to expound further, or just introduce you to my favorite fruit!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Clyde Common Restaurant. Ace Hotel, Portland",
"title": "Clyde Common Restaurant. Ace Hotel, Portland",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3886.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Disclaimer: this is not an \"Official Restaurant Review,\" it is merely a mention of a place to eat I loved when I was in Portland last. \u003ca href=\"http://www.clydecommon.com/\">Clyde Common\u003c/a> is the name. \u003ca href=\"http://www.acehotel.com/portland/\">Ace Hotel\u003c/a> is its location. I ate there once for each lunch and dinner a few days apart. And I would go there tomorrow if it were not an eleven hour drive away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have a favorite restaurant in NYC. It doesn't seem possible to single one place out on a flat, tiny island teeming with enough restaurants to fit on a small continent. But I do. And I send anyone there who asks me for \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/06/new-york-city-eating.jsp\">NYC eating recommendations\u003c/a>. My favorite place to eat in my old home town is \u003ca href=\"http://www.prunerestaurant.com/\">Prune\u003c/a>, a slip of an eatery on first street crammed tight with tables and exceptionally happy waiters. \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/a-rogue-chef-tells-all\">Gabrielle Hamilton\u003c/a> is one of the most down-to-earth chefs I have the pleasure of knowing. Her food is not exceptionally innovative. She doesn't wow with new spices or chemical induced textures. There's little on the menu you've never heard of or eaten before, albeit in some other form.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3906.JPG\">\u003cbr>Cauliflower soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Prune's food is brilliant. It's simultaneously inspired and soulful, flavorful and simple, honest and satisfying. There are traditional pairings, and seasonal ideas. But somehow, when Gabrielle puts these proteins and vegs together, something like earthy faerie dust gets thrown in, a dash of whimsy, a pinch of what-the-hell and voila, a Vogue-ing, lip syncing, twink of a beautiful creature is born. Always delicious, often exclamatorily so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But why on earth am I waxing poetic about Prune when I began by talking about a new restaurant in Portland, Oregon?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_4015.JPG\">\u003cbr>Ace, A Friendly Hotel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because the food at Clyde Common is also inspired, whimsical, down-to-earth, laid back, seasonal, exceptionally delicious at times, and it could turn into my favorite restaurant in Portland if I'm not careful. I don't think the chef behind its menu is as brilliant as Gabrielle, but at least he's reaching, standing on the diving board' edge, toes dangling. Most of the cooks in the kitchen understand how to cook, and many know finesse and flourish are important parts of making a dish day after night after day still taste good. I'm as big a fan of consistency as the next diner, but eating in a plated-food factory is not my idea of a great meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I go out to eat I want to be tempted, turned-on, pushed, inspired, and given too many options to choose from. I want to see items that sound intriguing but not too wacky, ones I never would have thought to do myself. Appetizers like, \"asparagus with caul fat wrapped egg,\" \"beef tongue, seared scallop, beets and tomato jam,\" \"chicken-fried chicken liver, cucumber salad and citrus mayonaise,\" \"fennel sausage, octopus, fried potatoes and ink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3874.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Words. On a page looking torn from a child's 1950's blue-lined notebook. Typewriter written letters, in all their skewed arty loveliness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For design is our first visual. Our first amuse bouche. The way she styles her hair, and the strands which refuse to be bound, falling lightly at her collarbone. The way he suavely matches green pinstripes with a shiny blue tie. The way the light in the room greets you, soft from a few dozen candles, and a menu with the restaurant's name in red rubber stamp ink and today's date in black, upper left hand column, in a hurried angle. You're going to get a special meal no one else will get. Unique. Just like you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3904.JPG\">\u003cbr>Chicken-Fried Chicken Livers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there's always the moment. The dish that makes the rest of the menu fall away, West Side Story style. You take a bite and you wish you didn't have to share.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>chicken-fried chicken liver, cucumber salad and citrus mayonaise 9.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You moan audibly. You say, \"[expletive deleted] yeah!\" And then you consider ordering one for dessert. If Clyde Common pleases you in no other way but the way you feel when this exquisitely delicious combination of inspiration, technique, texture and flavor reach your mouth and then your taste buds, so be it. Leave happy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or go on to order the \"fishboard\" of the day, a generous side dish of \"roast cauliflower,\" \"seared chicken thighs/pork shank, refried peanuts, frisee salad and pork jus,\" or \"risotto: fennel, finicchiona, walnuts and grano padano.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3888.JPG\">\u003cbr>French Fried Potatoes with Harissa and Creme Fraiche.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clyde Common is not for the vegetarian in you. It's for the adventurous, slightly silly, open- minded diner. People are pretty but casual. If you sit near the kitchen be prepared for a conversation with the person plating your salads and desserts. Cooks are white-jacketless, heavily tattooed and young enough to look like college drop-outs. Think Zuni Cafe meets Blue Plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately the desserts are too sweet, boring and sloppily plated. Someone had a good idea but not the skill or follow-through to make it taste good enough to order again. Dessert as afterthought: not my favorite way to end a blush producing meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Believe me when I tell you to walk a few blocks into the Pearl District and go to \u003ca href=\"http://bluehouronline.com/\">Blue Hour\u003c/a> for dessert. Or drive 15 minutes across one of Portland's beautiful bridges to SE for desserts at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ripepdx.com/\">ClarkLewis\u003c/a>. Or plan ahead and stop into \u003ca href=\"http://www.sahagunchocolates.com/theshop.php\">Sahagun\u003c/a> for sumptuous chocolates... Any of these three options will satisfy any sweet, seasonal craving you might have.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clyde Common, Domestic & Foreign Cooking\u003cbr> SW 10th and Stark in the Ace Hotel\u003cbr> 503.228.3333\u003cbr> Monday - Thursday open 5 until late\u003cbr> Friday - Saturday open 5 until later\u003cbr> Open Sundays starting June 17th\u003cbr>{\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/93596482@N00/sets/72157600960863175/\">More photographs here\u003c/a>.}\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": "Disclaimer: this is not an "Official Restaurant Review," it is merely a mention of a place to eat I loved when I was in Portland last. Clyde Common is the name. Ace Hotel is its location. I ate there once for each lunch and dinner a few days apart. And I would go there tomorrow",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3886.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Disclaimer: this is not an \"Official Restaurant Review,\" it is merely a mention of a place to eat I loved when I was in Portland last. \u003ca href=\"http://www.clydecommon.com/\">Clyde Common\u003c/a> is the name. \u003ca href=\"http://www.acehotel.com/portland/\">Ace Hotel\u003c/a> is its location. I ate there once for each lunch and dinner a few days apart. And I would go there tomorrow if it were not an eleven hour drive away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have a favorite restaurant in NYC. It doesn't seem possible to single one place out on a flat, tiny island teeming with enough restaurants to fit on a small continent. But I do. And I send anyone there who asks me for \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/06/new-york-city-eating.jsp\">NYC eating recommendations\u003c/a>. My favorite place to eat in my old home town is \u003ca href=\"http://www.prunerestaurant.com/\">Prune\u003c/a>, a slip of an eatery on first street crammed tight with tables and exceptionally happy waiters. \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/a-rogue-chef-tells-all\">Gabrielle Hamilton\u003c/a> is one of the most down-to-earth chefs I have the pleasure of knowing. Her food is not exceptionally innovative. She doesn't wow with new spices or chemical induced textures. There's little on the menu you've never heard of or eaten before, albeit in some other form.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3906.JPG\">\u003cbr>Cauliflower soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Prune's food is brilliant. It's simultaneously inspired and soulful, flavorful and simple, honest and satisfying. There are traditional pairings, and seasonal ideas. But somehow, when Gabrielle puts these proteins and vegs together, something like earthy faerie dust gets thrown in, a dash of whimsy, a pinch of what-the-hell and voila, a Vogue-ing, lip syncing, twink of a beautiful creature is born. Always delicious, often exclamatorily so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But why on earth am I waxing poetic about Prune when I began by talking about a new restaurant in Portland, Oregon?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_4015.JPG\">\u003cbr>Ace, A Friendly Hotel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because the food at Clyde Common is also inspired, whimsical, down-to-earth, laid back, seasonal, exceptionally delicious at times, and it could turn into my favorite restaurant in Portland if I'm not careful. I don't think the chef behind its menu is as brilliant as Gabrielle, but at least he's reaching, standing on the diving board' edge, toes dangling. Most of the cooks in the kitchen understand how to cook, and many know finesse and flourish are important parts of making a dish day after night after day still taste good. I'm as big a fan of consistency as the next diner, but eating in a plated-food factory is not my idea of a great meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I go out to eat I want to be tempted, turned-on, pushed, inspired, and given too many options to choose from. I want to see items that sound intriguing but not too wacky, ones I never would have thought to do myself. Appetizers like, \"asparagus with caul fat wrapped egg,\" \"beef tongue, seared scallop, beets and tomato jam,\" \"chicken-fried chicken liver, cucumber salad and citrus mayonaise,\" \"fennel sausage, octopus, fried potatoes and ink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3874.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Words. On a page looking torn from a child's 1950's blue-lined notebook. Typewriter written letters, in all their skewed arty loveliness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For design is our first visual. Our first amuse bouche. The way she styles her hair, and the strands which refuse to be bound, falling lightly at her collarbone. The way he suavely matches green pinstripes with a shiny blue tie. The way the light in the room greets you, soft from a few dozen candles, and a menu with the restaurant's name in red rubber stamp ink and today's date in black, upper left hand column, in a hurried angle. You're going to get a special meal no one else will get. Unique. Just like you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3904.JPG\">\u003cbr>Chicken-Fried Chicken Livers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there's always the moment. The dish that makes the rest of the menu fall away, West Side Story style. You take a bite and you wish you didn't have to share.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>chicken-fried chicken liver, cucumber salad and citrus mayonaise 9.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You moan audibly. You say, \"[expletive deleted] yeah!\" And then you consider ordering one for dessert. If Clyde Common pleases you in no other way but the way you feel when this exquisitely delicious combination of inspiration, technique, texture and flavor reach your mouth and then your taste buds, so be it. Leave happy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or go on to order the \"fishboard\" of the day, a generous side dish of \"roast cauliflower,\" \"seared chicken thighs/pork shank, refried peanuts, frisee salad and pork jus,\" or \"risotto: fennel, finicchiona, walnuts and grano padano.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3888.JPG\">\u003cbr>French Fried Potatoes with Harissa and Creme Fraiche.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clyde Common is not for the vegetarian in you. It's for the adventurous, slightly silly, open- minded diner. People are pretty but casual. If you sit near the kitchen be prepared for a conversation with the person plating your salads and desserts. Cooks are white-jacketless, heavily tattooed and young enough to look like college drop-outs. Think Zuni Cafe meets Blue Plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately the desserts are too sweet, boring and sloppily plated. Someone had a good idea but not the skill or follow-through to make it taste good enough to order again. Dessert as afterthought: not my favorite way to end a blush producing meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Believe me when I tell you to walk a few blocks into the Pearl District and go to \u003ca href=\"http://bluehouronline.com/\">Blue Hour\u003c/a> for dessert. Or drive 15 minutes across one of Portland's beautiful bridges to SE for desserts at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ripepdx.com/\">ClarkLewis\u003c/a>. Or plan ahead and stop into \u003ca href=\"http://www.sahagunchocolates.com/theshop.php\">Sahagun\u003c/a> for sumptuous chocolates... Any of these three options will satisfy any sweet, seasonal craving you might have.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clyde Common, Domestic & Foreign Cooking\u003cbr> SW 10th and Stark in the Ace Hotel\u003cbr> 503.228.3333\u003cbr> Monday - Thursday open 5 until late\u003cbr> Friday - Saturday open 5 until later\u003cbr> Open Sundays starting June 17th\u003cbr>{\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/93596482@N00/sets/72157600960863175/\">More photographs here\u003c/a>.}\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_4412.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a few hours I will be attending \u003ca href=\"http://glutenfreegirl.blogspot.com/\">the wedding of a friend\u003c/a> who has Celiac Disease. Her wedding will be a gluten-free picnic and all the guests will bring something in this theme.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know very little, almost nothing about what I call \"alternative baking.\" Luckily for me \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/07/crisp-topping-all-year-round-fruit.jsp\">crisp topping is not really considered baking\u003c/a>. There are no eggs, no chemical leaveners, no attempt at expecting something to rise in the oven, no faerie-dust finesse needed in the mixer. I need to put a bunch of gluten free flours together with various sugars and spices and butter, and hopefully, voila! Crisp topping baked onto glorious Pacific Northwest \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/07/pdx-pie-dough-c.html\">berries galore\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Alternative Baking\" is tricky business. Little has been written about the properties of these new flours as they relate or translate to what we know of wheat flour. Although wheat has not always been a year-round crop, almost all American and European baked goods start with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.celiac.org/\">Celiac Disease\u003c/a> is not the only major food allergy gaining momentum today. With the prevalence of soy and corn and wheat in almost everything consume, whether we know it's there or not, we are developing allergies to ingredients we are eating far too much of. Baking, cooking and eating that is considered \"alternative\" today may well be considered normal/standard/conventional in a dozen years or less.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_4424.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Books like \u003ca href=\"http://astore.amazon.com/eggbeater-20/detail/1587612755/102-8936846-1066566\">Heidi Swanson's Super Natural Cooking\u003c/a> have helped me to understand new flours like Mesquite, Teff, Sorghum. In her beginning chapters, she gently and thoroughly explains the nutritional, taste and baking properties of many of these almost mysterious new things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, like all new ingredients, one must experiment until one gets what tastes good to them. Because crisp topping has no dangerous raw ingredients you can taste it, and adjust according to taste when it looks ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Follow instructions for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/07/crisp-topping-all-year-round-fruit.jsp\">crisp topping I made last year\u003c/a> near this time. It is exactly the same.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here is what I put together for today's gluten free challenge. I used a scale so I could check proportions better. And I wrote it all down as I went along, tasting a tiny bit of each flour first to check texture and flavor. All these flours are ground to a different consistency, so measuring them in cups would have been dangerous. Some are heavier than others. (All Purpose unbleached (white) wheat flour generally weighs 5-6 oz. per cup)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2.5 oz Teff flour\u003cbr>\n4 oz. Sorghum flour\u003cbr>\n5 oz. Sushi rice flour\u003cbr>\n1.25 oz. Tapioca flour\u003cbr>\n1.75 ounces Mesquite flour\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons Kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 teaspoons ground cardamon\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon cardamon seeds*\u003cbr>\n1.75 sugar\u003cbr>\n3 oz. raw sugar\u003cbr>\n8 oz. Dark brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1 pound unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n*optional\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of these flours can be found at \u003ca href=\"http://www.rainbowgrocery.org/\">Rainbow Grocery\u003c/a>. If you have a friend who is gluten-free, I hope you get the chance to make this for them!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_4412.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a few hours I will be attending \u003ca href=\"http://glutenfreegirl.blogspot.com/\">the wedding of a friend\u003c/a> who has Celiac Disease. Her wedding will be a gluten-free picnic and all the guests will bring something in this theme.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know very little, almost nothing about what I call \"alternative baking.\" Luckily for me \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/07/crisp-topping-all-year-round-fruit.jsp\">crisp topping is not really considered baking\u003c/a>. There are no eggs, no chemical leaveners, no attempt at expecting something to rise in the oven, no faerie-dust finesse needed in the mixer. I need to put a bunch of gluten free flours together with various sugars and spices and butter, and hopefully, voila! Crisp topping baked onto glorious Pacific Northwest \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/07/pdx-pie-dough-c.html\">berries galore\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Alternative Baking\" is tricky business. Little has been written about the properties of these new flours as they relate or translate to what we know of wheat flour. Although wheat has not always been a year-round crop, almost all American and European baked goods start with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.celiac.org/\">Celiac Disease\u003c/a> is not the only major food allergy gaining momentum today. With the prevalence of soy and corn and wheat in almost everything consume, whether we know it's there or not, we are developing allergies to ingredients we are eating far too much of. Baking, cooking and eating that is considered \"alternative\" today may well be considered normal/standard/conventional in a dozen years or less.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_4424.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Books like \u003ca href=\"http://astore.amazon.com/eggbeater-20/detail/1587612755/102-8936846-1066566\">Heidi Swanson's Super Natural Cooking\u003c/a> have helped me to understand new flours like Mesquite, Teff, Sorghum. In her beginning chapters, she gently and thoroughly explains the nutritional, taste and baking properties of many of these almost mysterious new things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, like all new ingredients, one must experiment until one gets what tastes good to them. Because crisp topping has no dangerous raw ingredients you can taste it, and adjust according to taste when it looks ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Follow instructions for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/07/crisp-topping-all-year-round-fruit.jsp\">crisp topping I made last year\u003c/a> near this time. It is exactly the same.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here is what I put together for today's gluten free challenge. I used a scale so I could check proportions better. And I wrote it all down as I went along, tasting a tiny bit of each flour first to check texture and flavor. All these flours are ground to a different consistency, so measuring them in cups would have been dangerous. Some are heavier than others. (All Purpose unbleached (white) wheat flour generally weighs 5-6 oz. per cup)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2.5 oz Teff flour\u003cbr>\n4 oz. Sorghum flour\u003cbr>\n5 oz. Sushi rice flour\u003cbr>\n1.25 oz. Tapioca flour\u003cbr>\n1.75 ounces Mesquite flour\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons Kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 teaspoons ground cardamon\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon cardamon seeds*\u003cbr>\n1.75 sugar\u003cbr>\n3 oz. raw sugar\u003cbr>\n8 oz. Dark brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1 pound unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n*optional\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of these flours can be found at \u003ca href=\"http://www.rainbowgrocery.org/\">Rainbow Grocery\u003c/a>. If you have a friend who is gluten-free, I hope you get the chance to make this for them!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/blueberry_pdx.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been in \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/04/96-hours-in-portland.jsp\">Portland, Oregon\u003c/a>, now for about a week. Initially I was going to come here for a few days before heading up to a wedding in Seattle. I love Portland, and have since the first moment I saw this small city. But soon after I mentioned that, after two long years, I would be heading up to the Pacific Northwest, I received an inquiry asking whether I might be interested in teaching my \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/06/baking_classes__1.html\">baking classes in Portland\u003c/a>. Yes, I immediately replied, I'd be honored to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And so here I am, for two luxurious, long weeks. I could not be happier. Fourteen days to explore, eat, nibble, adventure, \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/93596482@N00/\">photograph\u003c/a>, visit, suntan, bake, go to farmers' markets, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/07/pdx-pie-dough-c.html\">stain my fingers with berry juices\u003c/a>, talk to farmers,\u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/07/sauvie-island-p.html\">berry picking\u003c/a>, make new friends, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2005/09/portland_bakery.html\">re-acquaint\u003c/a>, stroll, drive, and just take it all in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some highlights of my trip so far:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A perfectly executed, seasonal, eclectic dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://www.23hoyt.com/\">23 Hoyt\u003c/a>, in Northwest.\u003cbr>Late night tapas at \u003ca href=\"http://www.torobravopdx.com/\">Toro Bravo\u003c/a>. Find yourself there? Get the grilled onions.\u003cbr>Pecan pie made with real leaf lard at \u003ca href=\"http://www.portlandfoodanddrink.com/?p=870\">Podnah's\u003c/a>. (I'll be going back for the ribs, mark my word.)\u003cbr>An inspired fennel and golden raisin scone at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bakerybar.com/menu.shtml\">Bakery Bar\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>Perhaps some of the most amazing nectarines of my entire life at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.portlandfarmersmarket.org/?sm=taste\">Saturday Portland Farmers' market\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.marionberries.com/\">Marionberries\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>Blueberries from \u003ca href=\"http://www.sauvieisland.org/?p=35\">Sauvie Island\u003c/a>, picked by me.\u003cbr>Refreshing, smooth & sweet \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toddy_coffee\">cold-steeped iced coffee\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.portlandfoodanddrink.com/?p=974\">Random Order Coffee House\u003c/a>. Their baked goods are also amazing. I have now eaten the bacon-green onion muffin twice.\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://stumptowncoffee.com/\">Stumptown\u003c/a> coffee.\u003cbr>Three spot-on, seasonal fresh fruit desserts at \u003ca href=\"http://bluehouronline.com/\">Blue Hour\u003c/a>. (Jenny Raines, who was a pastry person at Chez Panisse for many years, is the pastry chef there now.)\u003cbr>The best French bread outside of France at \u003ca href=\"http://www.portlandmercury.com/portland/FoundIt?restaurant=344614\">Fleur de Lis Bakery\u003c/a> in Northeast.\u003cbr>Succulent tacos (my favorite is their carnitas), bright agua frescas and fresh chips at Por Que No? on the hip and hopping N. Mississippi street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With two classes and one week left I am hoping to get jumped up on some of the best tasting caffeine in North America, eat and explore what may be my future home. I love the nooks and crannies of Portland: the self-supporting neighborhoods, the community driven mentality of businesses, the effusive Portlanders who want to make sure I taste and see and go to their favorite spots. I love the trees that make wide arcs of shade, the various bridges connecting west to east, and the feeling you get when you're here. Like opening a business and buying a house are not just possibilities, but realities for someone like me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love living in Northern California, don't get me wrong. But Portland might well be in my future. So it's important that I sniff my way around, pay attention to the details, and have fun while I'm snooping.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/blueberry_pdx.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been in \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/04/96-hours-in-portland.jsp\">Portland, Oregon\u003c/a>, now for about a week. Initially I was going to come here for a few days before heading up to a wedding in Seattle. I love Portland, and have since the first moment I saw this small city. But soon after I mentioned that, after two long years, I would be heading up to the Pacific Northwest, I received an inquiry asking whether I might be interested in teaching my \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/06/baking_classes__1.html\">baking classes in Portland\u003c/a>. Yes, I immediately replied, I'd be honored to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And so here I am, for two luxurious, long weeks. I could not be happier. Fourteen days to explore, eat, nibble, adventure, \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/93596482@N00/\">photograph\u003c/a>, visit, suntan, bake, go to farmers' markets, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/07/pdx-pie-dough-c.html\">stain my fingers with berry juices\u003c/a>, talk to farmers,\u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/07/sauvie-island-p.html\">berry picking\u003c/a>, make new friends, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2005/09/portland_bakery.html\">re-acquaint\u003c/a>, stroll, drive, and just take it all in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some highlights of my trip so far:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A perfectly executed, seasonal, eclectic dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://www.23hoyt.com/\">23 Hoyt\u003c/a>, in Northwest.\u003cbr>Late night tapas at \u003ca href=\"http://www.torobravopdx.com/\">Toro Bravo\u003c/a>. Find yourself there? Get the grilled onions.\u003cbr>Pecan pie made with real leaf lard at \u003ca href=\"http://www.portlandfoodanddrink.com/?p=870\">Podnah's\u003c/a>. (I'll be going back for the ribs, mark my word.)\u003cbr>An inspired fennel and golden raisin scone at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bakerybar.com/menu.shtml\">Bakery Bar\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>Perhaps some of the most amazing nectarines of my entire life at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.portlandfarmersmarket.org/?sm=taste\">Saturday Portland Farmers' market\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.marionberries.com/\">Marionberries\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>Blueberries from \u003ca href=\"http://www.sauvieisland.org/?p=35\">Sauvie Island\u003c/a>, picked by me.\u003cbr>Refreshing, smooth & sweet \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toddy_coffee\">cold-steeped iced coffee\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.portlandfoodanddrink.com/?p=974\">Random Order Coffee House\u003c/a>. Their baked goods are also amazing. I have now eaten the bacon-green onion muffin twice.\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://stumptowncoffee.com/\">Stumptown\u003c/a> coffee.\u003cbr>Three spot-on, seasonal fresh fruit desserts at \u003ca href=\"http://bluehouronline.com/\">Blue Hour\u003c/a>. (Jenny Raines, who was a pastry person at Chez Panisse for many years, is the pastry chef there now.)\u003cbr>The best French bread outside of France at \u003ca href=\"http://www.portlandmercury.com/portland/FoundIt?restaurant=344614\">Fleur de Lis Bakery\u003c/a> in Northeast.\u003cbr>Succulent tacos (my favorite is their carnitas), bright agua frescas and fresh chips at Por Que No? on the hip and hopping N. Mississippi street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With two classes and one week left I am hoping to get jumped up on some of the best tasting caffeine in North America, eat and explore what may be my future home. I love the nooks and crannies of Portland: the self-supporting neighborhoods, the community driven mentality of businesses, the effusive Portlanders who want to make sure I taste and see and go to their favorite spots. I love the trees that make wide arcs of shade, the various bridges connecting west to east, and the feeling you get when you're here. Like opening a business and buying a house are not just possibilities, but realities for someone like me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love living in Northern California, don't get me wrong. But Portland might well be in my future. So it's important that I sniff my way around, pay attention to the details, and have fun while I'm snooping.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/V%26P.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/06/new-york-city-eating.jsp\">As I've said before\u003c/a>, to have me in your friend circle means I am your go-to for all edible recommendations. Most of the time this means that, after contacting me, people walk away with new eating and adventuring possibilities. But sometimes I tell people where to go for selfish reasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At weddings, for example. The food and cake can be notoriously awful at large functions. (In a recent talk at The Commonwealth Club, Charles Phan, chef/owner of The Slanted Door, reminded us that if we wanted to see restaurants buying, for example, sustainable seafood, we should think about speaking up at the next banquet dinner or luncheon we eat at or have at a hotel. \"Because you can eat more Chilean Sea Bass in one day in a hotel than I could buy/sell at my restaurant in a year.\")\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When people come to me asking for wedding cake making expertise or the option to cater their wedding, I send them to people and companies who do a much better job than I ever could. People who make a living in said fields. I give them the cards of those who have never let me and my recommendation down. I give out the names of companies who have fed me well at the very same parties I could have catered myself, but thankfully chose not to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take it from me when I say not all catering companies are created equally. I've worked for many who make food I myself am scared to eat at the very functions I'm preparing or plating the food for! When I've worked for these places, I eat big meals beforehand and carry snacks for the moment I'm caught hungrily off guard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2005/05/big_food_large_.html\">there are the places where I show up to work\u003c/a> hungry. Hungry to learn and to eat. \u003ca href=\"http://www.paulaleduc.com/home2.html\">Paula Le Duc\u003c/a>, for example. PLD is the exclusive caterer for \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/10/the_sunday_supp.html\">The Ferry Building Events\u003c/a>. They are incredibly organized, smart, efficient, and serve some of the best food in the Bay Area, no matter if the party is for 5000 or 50. They are professional and friendly and emply hundreds of people, many of them loyal for years on end. I loved working for them and have sent a number of cooks their way. It's always a good sign when a catering company hires aggressively and competitively from within the restaurant industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which brings me to \u003ca href=\"http://www.livingroomevents.com/\">Living Room Events\u003c/a>, a company made up of \u003ca href=\"http://www.livingroomevents.com/about.html\">almost exclusively restaurant people\u003c/a>. They are a catering company dedicated to cooking food on par with signature Cal-Med restaurants such as Zuni, Chez Panisse and Oliveto. Their chefs shop at the same farmers' markets and produce companies that the famously local-seasonal restaurants do. So when my friends Victoria and Phil came to me for caterer advice, selfishly knowing I would be a guest at their gorgeous wedding, I strongly suggested LRE. As with all food businesses you can often be served something extraordinarily delicious in the \"tasting,\" but then at the actual event, the food is sub-par. I only recommend companies where their follow through is as good, if not better, than how they sell it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This past Sunday was the third time where I have been a happy guest of their services. The food and service were so good, people at the party were telling the waiters they wished the catering company would turn into a restaurant! And rumor has it that Living Room Events is, in fact, going to open a restaurant. I would have eaten three plates of savoury food had I not known how good the cake was going to be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/weddingCk.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wedding cakes are made first to dazzle us with our eyes. What's hiding under the 5 inches of \u003ca href=\"http://www.petitepatisserie.com/glossary.html\">buttercream, fondant or marzipan\u003c/a> could be a cake made 6 months ago and stored in a deep freezer. You can get a raspberry cake in January, and much of the decorations could be edible ingredients whose digestibility is questionable, but that wedding cake could cost you tens of thousands of dollars and no one would wonder why a frosted dessert can sit in the heat of July's busy wedding month for the 6 or 7 hours it takes for the ceremony to start.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having worked with \u003ca href=\"http://www.petitepatisserie.com/about.html\">Rachel Leising\u003c/a> at Citizen Cake, owner of wedding cake business and now retail bakery \u003ca href=\"http://www.petitepatisserie.com/specordermain.html\">Petite Patisserie\u003c/a> in Potrero Hill, I can say that this woman's cakes taste as good as they look. Rachel is dedicated to seasonal, local, sustainable and Organic ingredients because they taste better. I have been at many a wedding and \u003ca href=\"http://becksposhnosh.blogspot.com/2007/06/cake-to-order-from-petite-patisserie.html\">birthday party\u003c/a> where I saved room for dessert and my only disappointment was there weren't more than two slices to eat!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't get paid to make these recommendations. I no longer work for any of these companies or people. But believe me when I say that it is better to pay the same or a little more for food and the work of food artisans whose product is far and above the quality of most of their competitors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know there are many more outstanding companies out there. Who do you love? Who do you recommend?\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/V%26P.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/06/new-york-city-eating.jsp\">As I've said before\u003c/a>, to have me in your friend circle means I am your go-to for all edible recommendations. Most of the time this means that, after contacting me, people walk away with new eating and adventuring possibilities. But sometimes I tell people where to go for selfish reasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At weddings, for example. The food and cake can be notoriously awful at large functions. (In a recent talk at The Commonwealth Club, Charles Phan, chef/owner of The Slanted Door, reminded us that if we wanted to see restaurants buying, for example, sustainable seafood, we should think about speaking up at the next banquet dinner or luncheon we eat at or have at a hotel. \"Because you can eat more Chilean Sea Bass in one day in a hotel than I could buy/sell at my restaurant in a year.\")\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When people come to me asking for wedding cake making expertise or the option to cater their wedding, I send them to people and companies who do a much better job than I ever could. People who make a living in said fields. I give them the cards of those who have never let me and my recommendation down. I give out the names of companies who have fed me well at the very same parties I could have catered myself, but thankfully chose not to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take it from me when I say not all catering companies are created equally. I've worked for many who make food I myself am scared to eat at the very functions I'm preparing or plating the food for! When I've worked for these places, I eat big meals beforehand and carry snacks for the moment I'm caught hungrily off guard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2005/05/big_food_large_.html\">there are the places where I show up to work\u003c/a> hungry. Hungry to learn and to eat. \u003ca href=\"http://www.paulaleduc.com/home2.html\">Paula Le Duc\u003c/a>, for example. PLD is the exclusive caterer for \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/10/the_sunday_supp.html\">The Ferry Building Events\u003c/a>. They are incredibly organized, smart, efficient, and serve some of the best food in the Bay Area, no matter if the party is for 5000 or 50. They are professional and friendly and emply hundreds of people, many of them loyal for years on end. I loved working for them and have sent a number of cooks their way. It's always a good sign when a catering company hires aggressively and competitively from within the restaurant industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which brings me to \u003ca href=\"http://www.livingroomevents.com/\">Living Room Events\u003c/a>, a company made up of \u003ca href=\"http://www.livingroomevents.com/about.html\">almost exclusively restaurant people\u003c/a>. They are a catering company dedicated to cooking food on par with signature Cal-Med restaurants such as Zuni, Chez Panisse and Oliveto. Their chefs shop at the same farmers' markets and produce companies that the famously local-seasonal restaurants do. So when my friends Victoria and Phil came to me for caterer advice, selfishly knowing I would be a guest at their gorgeous wedding, I strongly suggested LRE. As with all food businesses you can often be served something extraordinarily delicious in the \"tasting,\" but then at the actual event, the food is sub-par. I only recommend companies where their follow through is as good, if not better, than how they sell it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This past Sunday was the third time where I have been a happy guest of their services. The food and service were so good, people at the party were telling the waiters they wished the catering company would turn into a restaurant! And rumor has it that Living Room Events is, in fact, going to open a restaurant. I would have eaten three plates of savoury food had I not known how good the cake was going to be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/weddingCk.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wedding cakes are made first to dazzle us with our eyes. What's hiding under the 5 inches of \u003ca href=\"http://www.petitepatisserie.com/glossary.html\">buttercream, fondant or marzipan\u003c/a> could be a cake made 6 months ago and stored in a deep freezer. You can get a raspberry cake in January, and much of the decorations could be edible ingredients whose digestibility is questionable, but that wedding cake could cost you tens of thousands of dollars and no one would wonder why a frosted dessert can sit in the heat of July's busy wedding month for the 6 or 7 hours it takes for the ceremony to start.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having worked with \u003ca href=\"http://www.petitepatisserie.com/about.html\">Rachel Leising\u003c/a> at Citizen Cake, owner of wedding cake business and now retail bakery \u003ca href=\"http://www.petitepatisserie.com/specordermain.html\">Petite Patisserie\u003c/a> in Potrero Hill, I can say that this woman's cakes taste as good as they look. Rachel is dedicated to seasonal, local, sustainable and Organic ingredients because they taste better. I have been at many a wedding and \u003ca href=\"http://becksposhnosh.blogspot.com/2007/06/cake-to-order-from-petite-patisserie.html\">birthday party\u003c/a> where I saved room for dessert and my only disappointment was there weren't more than two slices to eat!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't get paid to make these recommendations. I no longer work for any of these companies or people. But believe me when I say that it is better to pay the same or a little more for food and the work of food artisans whose product is far and above the quality of most of their competitors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know there are many more outstanding companies out there. Who do you love? Who do you recommend?\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/NYC%20October%2005%20%20rainy%20053.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you work in the restaurant business everyone you know, everyone you know's friends, in-laws and children, and everyone you've not met yet, comes to you for restaurant recommendations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Needless to say I am extremely grateful that \u003ca href=\"http://www.chowhound.com/\">Chowhound\u003c/a> also exists. For it gets quite tiresome to be absolutely everyone's go to for breakfast, lunch, brunch and dinner suggestions. Especially when you consider I grew up in New York City, have lived in London and Napa Valley and the Bay Area is my permanent home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All this being said, when I plan a trip to my old home, I very much look forward to what I will eat when I'm there. Will I visit the places where I know the chefs and pastry chefs? Will I haunt my old workplaces? Will I eat all my favorite foods? Will I shop and cook in my host's kitchen? Will I eat at brand name places so that I have something to talk about when I get back or will I just eat in the places no one but real New Yorkers go? Will I eat solely for memory or will I want to try all the new things I've read about since I was there last?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The truth is that I eat foods in my old home that I can't find in my new one. I'm fiercely loyal to old haunts, places whose menus I can trust no matter what the current trend and flash-in-the-pan hip happening thang is. I bring my money to the people I love and have the most respect for. Chefs and pastry chefs whose work is something that inspires me, fills me with hope that one day my California home town will embrace these innovations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My upcoming trip to New York will look different from ones I've taken in more recent years. Because I met and be-friended some spectacularly talented people at the \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/pastry_chef_conference_2007/index.html\">Pastry Chef Conference\u003c/a> in May, I will spend some time eating and working with some of these folks. I'll go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.danielnyc.com/daniel/\">Daniel\u003c/a> just for dessert and then with their pastry chef, Dominique Ansel, we will eat at \u003ca href=\"http://www.devinyc.com/\">Devi\u003c/a>, pastry chef Surbhi Sahnhi's post.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the sweet theme, I'll make it into \u003ca href=\"http://www.chikalicious.com/\">Chikalicious\u003c/a> at least once. And if I have time, Pichet Ong's new place, \u003ca href=\"http://p-ong.com/\">P'ong\u003c/a>. And then there's always a detour to \u003ca href=\"http://www.laboratoriodelgelato.com/press.php\">Il Laboratorio del Gelato\u003c/a> on Orchard Street in the heart of the real Lower East Side. Maybe I'll get a kasha K'nish at \u003ca href=\"http://knishery.com/\">Yonah Schimmels\u003c/a> beforehand so I can convince myself I've eaten dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not a trip to New York without one surprising dinner at the diminutive \u003ca href=\"http://www.prunerestaurant.com/\">Prune\u003c/a> on First Street. Whether chef/owner Gabrielle Hamilton is there or not, I like to bring her a California gift. This week I'll be stocking up on jars of jam from newcomer \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/04/sf_oakland_nibb.html\">Rachel Saunders\u003c/a> so that I can present unique gifts to the people I love. Prune is my favorite restaurant in NYC.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for the food I grew up with, there will be frequent visits to \u003ca href=\"http://www.veselka.com/\">Veselka\u003c/a> for pierogi, cabbage soup and a chat with my father and stepmother over blintzes. I always have to have one steamed lobster dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://nymag.com/listings/restaurant/pearl-oyster-bar/\">Pearl Oyster Bar\u003c/a> on the tiny slanted street of Cornelia. When you grow up with steamers dipped in drawn butter and tasting of the chewy clammy sea, no nouveau California preparation of clams will satisfy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It will be important for me to get sticky with \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2005/09/old_skool_shave.html\">coco helado\u003c/a> on a street corner if it's hot, and of course I'll be noshing on my old stand by in Coney Island, ridged french fries at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nathansfamous.com/\">Nathan's\u003c/a> and a cone of pastel green \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/07/nyc_coney_islan.html\">pistachio soft serve with colored sprinkles\u003c/a> on Neptune Avenue!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/NYC%20June%2005%20%28105%29.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a post Coney Island Mermaid Day Parade de-tox I might head over to my favorite macrobiotic restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.angelicakitchen.com/\">Angelica's\u003c/a>. I have to get my fix of their kooky \"cornbread,\" carrot spread and one small Dragon Bowl. And if I make it to Harlem I'll be going directly to \u003ca href=\"http://www.chowhound.com/topics/257262\">M&G's\u003c/a> for fried chicken. And if I want to roll out of my bed the next day to stand in line, I might head to \u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&um=1&q=danal&near=New+York,+NY&fb=1&latlng=40730917,-73989513,3615824086388571847\">Danal\u003c/a> for brunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Saving the best for last, I am over-the-top excited that this will be the first time I'm going to Gerry Hayden and Claudia Fleming's restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.northforktableandinn.com/\">The North Fork Table & Inn\u003c/a> on Long Island. I used to work for Claudia Fleming at \u003ca href=\"http://www.gramercytavern.com/gramercy_tavern.html\">Gramercy Tavern\u003c/a> in the Flatiron District. This will be my first time seeing her since I threw a party at Citizen Cake for her incredible book \u003ca href=\"http://astore.amazon.com/eggbeater-20/detail/037550429X/103-8158779-7425444\">The Last Course\u003c/a>, a must have for anyone who loves to bake seasonal desserts. The day I made the reservation to eat and stay at the Inn I could not sleep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/NYC%20June%2005%20%28110%29.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, you can see, I will be eating well in my old hometown. Like most people, I tend to eat the familiar when I'm home. I have plans with friends and family, old lovers and new, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/06/ny_ny_i_heart_y.html\">bloggers\u003c/a>, chefs and pastry chefs. I have adventures planned and I will be taking my feet to places they'll go without direction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're looking for NYC restaurant recommendations, I still give them. But only if you're willing to try what a real New Yorker eats...\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/NYC%20October%2005%20%20rainy%20053.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you work in the restaurant business everyone you know, everyone you know's friends, in-laws and children, and everyone you've not met yet, comes to you for restaurant recommendations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Needless to say I am extremely grateful that \u003ca href=\"http://www.chowhound.com/\">Chowhound\u003c/a> also exists. For it gets quite tiresome to be absolutely everyone's go to for breakfast, lunch, brunch and dinner suggestions. Especially when you consider I grew up in New York City, have lived in London and Napa Valley and the Bay Area is my permanent home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All this being said, when I plan a trip to my old home, I very much look forward to what I will eat when I'm there. Will I visit the places where I know the chefs and pastry chefs? Will I haunt my old workplaces? Will I eat all my favorite foods? Will I shop and cook in my host's kitchen? Will I eat at brand name places so that I have something to talk about when I get back or will I just eat in the places no one but real New Yorkers go? Will I eat solely for memory or will I want to try all the new things I've read about since I was there last?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The truth is that I eat foods in my old home that I can't find in my new one. I'm fiercely loyal to old haunts, places whose menus I can trust no matter what the current trend and flash-in-the-pan hip happening thang is. I bring my money to the people I love and have the most respect for. Chefs and pastry chefs whose work is something that inspires me, fills me with hope that one day my California home town will embrace these innovations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My upcoming trip to New York will look different from ones I've taken in more recent years. Because I met and be-friended some spectacularly talented people at the \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/pastry_chef_conference_2007/index.html\">Pastry Chef Conference\u003c/a> in May, I will spend some time eating and working with some of these folks. I'll go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.danielnyc.com/daniel/\">Daniel\u003c/a> just for dessert and then with their pastry chef, Dominique Ansel, we will eat at \u003ca href=\"http://www.devinyc.com/\">Devi\u003c/a>, pastry chef Surbhi Sahnhi's post.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the sweet theme, I'll make it into \u003ca href=\"http://www.chikalicious.com/\">Chikalicious\u003c/a> at least once. And if I have time, Pichet Ong's new place, \u003ca href=\"http://p-ong.com/\">P'ong\u003c/a>. And then there's always a detour to \u003ca href=\"http://www.laboratoriodelgelato.com/press.php\">Il Laboratorio del Gelato\u003c/a> on Orchard Street in the heart of the real Lower East Side. Maybe I'll get a kasha K'nish at \u003ca href=\"http://knishery.com/\">Yonah Schimmels\u003c/a> beforehand so I can convince myself I've eaten dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not a trip to New York without one surprising dinner at the diminutive \u003ca href=\"http://www.prunerestaurant.com/\">Prune\u003c/a> on First Street. Whether chef/owner Gabrielle Hamilton is there or not, I like to bring her a California gift. This week I'll be stocking up on jars of jam from newcomer \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/04/sf_oakland_nibb.html\">Rachel Saunders\u003c/a> so that I can present unique gifts to the people I love. Prune is my favorite restaurant in NYC.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for the food I grew up with, there will be frequent visits to \u003ca href=\"http://www.veselka.com/\">Veselka\u003c/a> for pierogi, cabbage soup and a chat with my father and stepmother over blintzes. I always have to have one steamed lobster dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://nymag.com/listings/restaurant/pearl-oyster-bar/\">Pearl Oyster Bar\u003c/a> on the tiny slanted street of Cornelia. When you grow up with steamers dipped in drawn butter and tasting of the chewy clammy sea, no nouveau California preparation of clams will satisfy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It will be important for me to get sticky with \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2005/09/old_skool_shave.html\">coco helado\u003c/a> on a street corner if it's hot, and of course I'll be noshing on my old stand by in Coney Island, ridged french fries at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nathansfamous.com/\">Nathan's\u003c/a> and a cone of pastel green \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/07/nyc_coney_islan.html\">pistachio soft serve with colored sprinkles\u003c/a> on Neptune Avenue!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/NYC%20June%2005%20%28105%29.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a post Coney Island Mermaid Day Parade de-tox I might head over to my favorite macrobiotic restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.angelicakitchen.com/\">Angelica's\u003c/a>. I have to get my fix of their kooky \"cornbread,\" carrot spread and one small Dragon Bowl. And if I make it to Harlem I'll be going directly to \u003ca href=\"http://www.chowhound.com/topics/257262\">M&G's\u003c/a> for fried chicken. And if I want to roll out of my bed the next day to stand in line, I might head to \u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&um=1&q=danal&near=New+York,+NY&fb=1&latlng=40730917,-73989513,3615824086388571847\">Danal\u003c/a> for brunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Saving the best for last, I am over-the-top excited that this will be the first time I'm going to Gerry Hayden and Claudia Fleming's restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.northforktableandinn.com/\">The North Fork Table & Inn\u003c/a> on Long Island. I used to work for Claudia Fleming at \u003ca href=\"http://www.gramercytavern.com/gramercy_tavern.html\">Gramercy Tavern\u003c/a> in the Flatiron District. This will be my first time seeing her since I threw a party at Citizen Cake for her incredible book \u003ca href=\"http://astore.amazon.com/eggbeater-20/detail/037550429X/103-8158779-7425444\">The Last Course\u003c/a>, a must have for anyone who loves to bake seasonal desserts. The day I made the reservation to eat and stay at the Inn I could not sleep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/NYC%20June%2005%20%28110%29.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, you can see, I will be eating well in my old hometown. Like most people, I tend to eat the familiar when I'm home. I have plans with friends and family, old lovers and new, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/06/ny_ny_i_heart_y.html\">bloggers\u003c/a>, chefs and pastry chefs. I have adventures planned and I will be taking my feet to places they'll go without direction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're looking for NYC restaurant recommendations, I still give them. But only if you're willing to try what a real New Yorker eats...\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>It's that time of year. When Bay Area markets are jumping with stone fruits. Names whimsical, actual and unpronounceable and downright silly fill signage over mysterious glowing orbs. People want to know, \"What's the difference between a pluot and a plumcot, a nectarcot and an aprium? Why all the funny names? What happened to the straight up plum, apricot, nectarine and peach?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The full answer is too wordy for this medium. But, truth be told, there are almost no fruits we eat out hand today which are their true selves in their original form. \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prunus\">All stone fruits are hybrids\u003c/a> of the bitter almond tree, and all have been developed by horticulturalists for hundreds of years to withstand certain weather conditions, soils and various interfering pests. And in the last one hundred years or so, farmers have been juggling/gambling with different trees in an attempt to provide Americans with what appears to be one fruit during the course of a season. The peach you eat in May is not the peach you eat in June or July. But the hope is that on each of these hot summer days, you can find, buy and eat a peach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's almost impossible to keep up with all the stone fruit hybrids once summer begins. They rush at us like stars in a meteor shower. Some varietals last a month, but many come and go within a week or even days! My favorite farm for stone fruit is \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_8.php\">Blossom Bluff\u003c/a>. Ted and Fran Loewen grow dozens of varietals, oftentimes experimenting or sticking with more difficult trees and fruit to provide their customers with a delicious spectrum of complex, aromatic, texturally sensuous fruits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's been as big a surprise to me, as anyone else, that peaches and various plum-apricot hybrids are arriving at the farmers' market as early as this. It's May; still spring by the calendar! But here they all are, available for the picking, and in wide sweeping arrays and displays at \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleybowl.com/pages/produce.html\">Berkeley Bowl\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereymarket.com/index.htm\">Monterey Market\u003c/a> and local farmers' markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unless a farmer has stayed loyal to calling these hybrids their proper names, what you buy here will be named something different there. As of yet there's little regulation to insure names stay consistent. Train your nose and mouth to recognize new varietals. Pick fruit that has a strong scent when you go in for the smell. All stone fruit can ripen off the tree. Unless your house is very hot or humid, ripen fruit further by setting fruit on its shoulders, stem side down, until, when pressed, flesh has a bit of give. If the fruit you buy is very ripe, be sure to refrigerate it immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Early fruits will be smaller and higher in acid than their later cousins. Fruit whose color bleeds right down into the stem end will ripen sweeter than those whose color is yellow or green by the stem. Look for fruit with saturated color. The sun's blush is what determines sugar in stone fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But remember, some of these varietals will be gone before you can decide if you'll like them! Buy a few of each as the season progresses and jot down the name on the placard as well as the name of the farm stand. These notes will help you get a head-start on next years stone fruit onslaught.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have an interest in the history of these quirky hybrids, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zaiger%27s_Genetics\">Mr. Floyd Zaiger\u003c/a> is the first person to learn about. He has contributed more to stone fruit hybridization than any other person to date.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Short Pieces on Floyd Zaiger:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yourproduceman.com/news_aug_1_05.html\">Your Produce Man\u003c/a>\u003cbr>News from \u003ca href=\"http://www.davewilson.com/z_file/TOC_zaiger.html\">The Dave Wilson Nursery\u003c/a> (where many California farmers buy these various hybrids.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you are a nerdy (budding) fruit historian (pun intended) like me, you'll enjoy words written by and about the infamous David Karp, Fruit Detective extraordinaire:\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.californiaheartland.org/archive/hl_735/fruitdetect.htm\">\u003cbr> California Heartland . Org\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.booknoise.net/johnseabrook/stories/culture/detective/index.html\">John Seabrook from The New Yorker\u003c/a> spends a few days with our man.\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianmagazine.com/issues/2006/july/karp.php\">Smithsonian Magazine interview\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>It's that time of year. When Bay Area markets are jumping with stone fruits. Names whimsical, actual and unpronounceable and downright silly fill signage over mysterious glowing orbs. People want to know, \"What's the difference between a pluot and a plumcot, a nectarcot and an aprium? Why all the funny names? What happened to the straight up plum, apricot, nectarine and peach?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The full answer is too wordy for this medium. But, truth be told, there are almost no fruits we eat out hand today which are their true selves in their original form. \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prunus\">All stone fruits are hybrids\u003c/a> of the bitter almond tree, and all have been developed by horticulturalists for hundreds of years to withstand certain weather conditions, soils and various interfering pests. And in the last one hundred years or so, farmers have been juggling/gambling with different trees in an attempt to provide Americans with what appears to be one fruit during the course of a season. The peach you eat in May is not the peach you eat in June or July. But the hope is that on each of these hot summer days, you can find, buy and eat a peach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's almost impossible to keep up with all the stone fruit hybrids once summer begins. They rush at us like stars in a meteor shower. Some varietals last a month, but many come and go within a week or even days! My favorite farm for stone fruit is \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_8.php\">Blossom Bluff\u003c/a>. Ted and Fran Loewen grow dozens of varietals, oftentimes experimenting or sticking with more difficult trees and fruit to provide their customers with a delicious spectrum of complex, aromatic, texturally sensuous fruits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's been as big a surprise to me, as anyone else, that peaches and various plum-apricot hybrids are arriving at the farmers' market as early as this. It's May; still spring by the calendar! But here they all are, available for the picking, and in wide sweeping arrays and displays at \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleybowl.com/pages/produce.html\">Berkeley Bowl\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereymarket.com/index.htm\">Monterey Market\u003c/a> and local farmers' markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unless a farmer has stayed loyal to calling these hybrids their proper names, what you buy here will be named something different there. As of yet there's little regulation to insure names stay consistent. Train your nose and mouth to recognize new varietals. Pick fruit that has a strong scent when you go in for the smell. All stone fruit can ripen off the tree. Unless your house is very hot or humid, ripen fruit further by setting fruit on its shoulders, stem side down, until, when pressed, flesh has a bit of give. If the fruit you buy is very ripe, be sure to refrigerate it immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Early fruits will be smaller and higher in acid than their later cousins. Fruit whose color bleeds right down into the stem end will ripen sweeter than those whose color is yellow or green by the stem. Look for fruit with saturated color. The sun's blush is what determines sugar in stone fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But remember, some of these varietals will be gone before you can decide if you'll like them! Buy a few of each as the season progresses and jot down the name on the placard as well as the name of the farm stand. These notes will help you get a head-start on next years stone fruit onslaught.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have an interest in the history of these quirky hybrids, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zaiger%27s_Genetics\">Mr. Floyd Zaiger\u003c/a> is the first person to learn about. He has contributed more to stone fruit hybridization than any other person to date.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Short Pieces on Floyd Zaiger:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yourproduceman.com/news_aug_1_05.html\">Your Produce Man\u003c/a>\u003cbr>News from \u003ca href=\"http://www.davewilson.com/z_file/TOC_zaiger.html\">The Dave Wilson Nursery\u003c/a> (where many California farmers buy these various hybrids.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you are a nerdy (budding) fruit historian (pun intended) like me, you'll enjoy words written by and about the infamous David Karp, Fruit Detective extraordinaire:\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.californiaheartland.org/archive/hl_735/fruitdetect.htm\">\u003cbr> California Heartland . Org\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.booknoise.net/johnseabrook/stories/culture/detective/index.html\">John Seabrook from The New Yorker\u003c/a> spends a few days with our man.\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianmagazine.com/issues/2006/july/karp.php\">Smithsonian Magazine interview\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0959.JPG\">\u003cbr>I lined up plates in the order they appeared on the menu. This trick helps cooks plate food with speed and efficiency during a busy service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week many of you participated in having a bit of fun with your food. You played \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/plated-desserts-game.jsp\">The Plated Dessert Menu Game!\u003c/a> Although it began as a lark, I must admit I might make this a regular thing if I get another pastry chef job in a restaurant. Many of you created a menu the likes of which I would not have thought of myself! Thank you! (I hope, of course, that it means you are adventurous eaters as well, supporting dedicated pastry chefs wherever you eat...)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every day since \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/05/plated_dessert__2.html\">the dessert tasting\u003c/a>/job interview, my phone voicemail and email inbox has been full of one question, \"So, how did it go?\" But I don't know what to say. They sat, I plated, we ate, we talked, I left. There were 6 of them and one of me. The chef I've been discussing this position with for the last 4 months asked me to speak about what was on the table, another chef asked a lot of questions, a few comments were made and now it's all about the waiting game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0956.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did get to be really nerdy when it came to talking about \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/12/butterscotch_pu.html\">the history of butterscotch\u003c/a>, and why a graham cracker is called that, and why one need \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/rhubarb-verbena-sabayon-pastry-chef.jsp\">understand osmotic reciprocity when attempting to cook rhubarb\u003c/a>. That was extremely fun and satisfying!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0965.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it was amazing to see desserts that had been living in my head, as ideas or a dizzying array of free-floating components, come together on a plate, be set forth in front of humans, and eaten as if they were finished sentences, cohesive concrete visions. Like digital photography, plated dessert making can produce immediate results, an on-the-spot culmination of the conceptual and the actual.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course one hopes that one's desserts will also be delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Without further ado, I give you The Menu presented as my dessert tasting on Monday May 14, 2007, 12 noon, at an undisclosed downtown San Francisco restaurant for the purpose of trying out for a pastry chef job:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Butterscotch Pot de creme with Pecan Shortbread\u003cbr>-- Extra component: chantilly.\u003cbr>Cherries & Cream, a Napoleon with Poetic License\u003cbr>-- Double vanilla shortbread, carnaroli rice pudding infused with California Bay Laurel, cherries reduced in cherry vinegar and pitted cherries au natural.\u003cbr>Ricotta Cheesecake with Crunchy Poached Rhubarb\u003cbr>-- Served with rhubarb-rose geranium sauce.\u003cbr>Warm Milk Chocolate with Various Chocolate Textures and Malted Ice Cream\u003cbr>-- El Rey milk chocolate veloute baked atop Devil's Food Cake lifted by cocoa meringue, warmed by hot fudge sauce and garnished with malt ice cream sitting on candied cacao nibs.\u003cbr>Hot Doughnuts with Blushing Sugar and An Egg Cream Chaser\u003cbr>-- \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/03/doughnuts_donut.html\">Pate a choux doughnuts\u003c/a> rolled in sugar made with mesquite flour, fleur de sel and ground cacao nibs served with vanilla bean egg cream.\u003cbr>Bright Lemon Baked Alaska, Brown Butter and Shuna's Famous Graham Crackers\u003cbr>-- Shuna's famous graham crackers sitting against lemon sherbet and brown butter ice cream hiding under torched Swiss meringue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0963.JPG\">\u003cbr>The cherry Napoleon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0964.JPG\">\u003cbr>Warm Milk Chocolate with Various Chocolate Textures and Malted Ice Cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've written about a number of plated dessert tastings I've done in the past few years. Interested in knowing more? \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/plated_desserts/index.html\">Click here\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thank you, all of you, for playing last week's game, reading, imagining, and coming along for the ride!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0959.JPG\">\u003cbr>I lined up plates in the order they appeared on the menu. This trick helps cooks plate food with speed and efficiency during a busy service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week many of you participated in having a bit of fun with your food. You played \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/plated-desserts-game.jsp\">The Plated Dessert Menu Game!\u003c/a> Although it began as a lark, I must admit I might make this a regular thing if I get another pastry chef job in a restaurant. Many of you created a menu the likes of which I would not have thought of myself! Thank you! (I hope, of course, that it means you are adventurous eaters as well, supporting dedicated pastry chefs wherever you eat...)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every day since \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/05/plated_dessert__2.html\">the dessert tasting\u003c/a>/job interview, my phone voicemail and email inbox has been full of one question, \"So, how did it go?\" But I don't know what to say. They sat, I plated, we ate, we talked, I left. There were 6 of them and one of me. The chef I've been discussing this position with for the last 4 months asked me to speak about what was on the table, another chef asked a lot of questions, a few comments were made and now it's all about the waiting game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0956.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did get to be really nerdy when it came to talking about \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/12/butterscotch_pu.html\">the history of butterscotch\u003c/a>, and why a graham cracker is called that, and why one need \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/rhubarb-verbena-sabayon-pastry-chef.jsp\">understand osmotic reciprocity when attempting to cook rhubarb\u003c/a>. That was extremely fun and satisfying!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0965.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it was amazing to see desserts that had been living in my head, as ideas or a dizzying array of free-floating components, come together on a plate, be set forth in front of humans, and eaten as if they were finished sentences, cohesive concrete visions. Like digital photography, plated dessert making can produce immediate results, an on-the-spot culmination of the conceptual and the actual.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course one hopes that one's desserts will also be delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Without further ado, I give you The Menu presented as my dessert tasting on Monday May 14, 2007, 12 noon, at an undisclosed downtown San Francisco restaurant for the purpose of trying out for a pastry chef job:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Butterscotch Pot de creme with Pecan Shortbread\u003cbr>-- Extra component: chantilly.\u003cbr>Cherries & Cream, a Napoleon with Poetic License\u003cbr>-- Double vanilla shortbread, carnaroli rice pudding infused with California Bay Laurel, cherries reduced in cherry vinegar and pitted cherries au natural.\u003cbr>Ricotta Cheesecake with Crunchy Poached Rhubarb\u003cbr>-- Served with rhubarb-rose geranium sauce.\u003cbr>Warm Milk Chocolate with Various Chocolate Textures and Malted Ice Cream\u003cbr>-- El Rey milk chocolate veloute baked atop Devil's Food Cake lifted by cocoa meringue, warmed by hot fudge sauce and garnished with malt ice cream sitting on candied cacao nibs.\u003cbr>Hot Doughnuts with Blushing Sugar and An Egg Cream Chaser\u003cbr>-- \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/03/doughnuts_donut.html\">Pate a choux doughnuts\u003c/a> rolled in sugar made with mesquite flour, fleur de sel and ground cacao nibs served with vanilla bean egg cream.\u003cbr>Bright Lemon Baked Alaska, Brown Butter and Shuna's Famous Graham Crackers\u003cbr>-- Shuna's famous graham crackers sitting against lemon sherbet and brown butter ice cream hiding under torched Swiss meringue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0963.JPG\">\u003cbr>The cherry Napoleon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0964.JPG\">\u003cbr>Warm Milk Chocolate with Various Chocolate Textures and Malted Ice Cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've written about a number of plated dessert tastings I've done in the past few years. Interested in knowing more? \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/plated_desserts/index.html\">Click here\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thank you, all of you, for playing last week's game, reading, imagining, and coming along for the ride!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Anthony Bourdain hit the nail on the head in his iconic book Kitchen Confidential, when he said, \"pastry chefs are the neurologists of the kitchen.\" We like things just so, and will stop only at premeditated murder, to make sure it stays this way. We are organized to the point of scary, and we guard our (often tiny) stations like junkyard dogs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pastry chefs like things clean, orderly, in excellent working order, and labeled. When I worked at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bolorestaurant.com/\">Bolo\u003c/a> in NYC, I would lock our station's chinois (fine mesh strainer) in my locker and would refuse the chef's request for it, even when he begged. I knew our pristine chinois would be introduced to garlic, or worse: a 4 oz. ladle. (If you must force something through this expensive, delicate piece of equipment, use the smallest ladle: 1-2 oz.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As some of you know, I've spent the last seven days baking up a storm for \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/05/plated_dessert__1.html\">a major plated dessert tasting\u003c/a> I have today at noon. I'm working primarily out of restaurant kitchen in San Francisco, which is great because, in my one bedroom flat in Berkeley, I don't have a walk-in refrigerator. Nor do I have a row of burners and any number of ovens for various sensitive custards and buttery shortbread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0930.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But working out the details has been a logistical challenge. Lists and lists and lists get made, sometimes twice a day. I'm arranging time sensitive batters, freezing times, a fight for space in an extremely busy establishment, and I want the seven people eating my desserts today to taste the freshest of flavors! I've only been able to be in said kitchen from @ 6:30-9/10 AM a few days, and the rest of the time I'm testing components in my home. I've also wanted to build in time for testing, tasting and re-making if needed. Disasters always take more time than we think they will.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/sfgate/category?blogid=26&cat=840\">The trick to plated desserts is to create a menu that is all things to all people\u003c/a>. Desserts need to be:\u003cbr>Both comforting and innovative, cold and hot, soft and crunchy, smooth and toothsome, sweet and a little salty, a balance of acid and fat, pretty to look at, right-sized and worth the price (don't get me started on this), eaten only with one utensil, have a pronounce-able name on the menu, sweets the waiters like, something you want to eat after that which came before, have a plating style which matches the aesthetic of the dining room/savory food/the diner's outfits, seasonal or mostly chocolate, flavorful or too sweet, dumbed down or esoteric and conceptual.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you can see, it's a tall order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pastry chefs are responsible for feeding you your last morsel. We can help you to leave happy or discouraged. We can save a mediocre meal or confuse a good one with awfulness. We can give you more of what you've been eating since the 80's: creme brulee, warm molten chocolate cake, apple tart, lemon bars, hot fudge sundaes and mint leaf garnishes. Or we can introduce you to fruits at their peak of flavor, subtle herb infused ice creams and pot de cremes, seemingly savory ingredients infiltrating the last course, and allow your imaginations to soar as we push the envelope for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you trust the pastry chef, you can take virtual trips to sights unseen and explored! Beyond your wildest imaginings...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_7946.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_7945.JPG\">\u003cbr>The pastry chef's prep lists at \u003ca href=\"http://www.coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To this end, I bring you a game. The Plated Dessert Menu Game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I give you 6 mains, and a list of possible components. Each main needs at least 3 components to comprise one cohesive plated dessert. You can take creative license with one dessert and add a component that's not on the list, but you have to say why you chose to do so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mains:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Butterscotch pot de creme 2. Carnaroli rice pudding 3. Warm milk chocolate veloute 4. Ricotta cheesecake (this has no crust) 5. Pate a choux doughnuts 6. Lemon Sherbet\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Components:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crunchy poached rhubarb dice, Vanilla Egg Cream, Chantilly, Malt ice cream, Cherries, Brown Butter ice cream, Candied Citrus Zests, Mesquite flour, Rose geranium, Pecan shortbread, Warm chocolate sauce, Cherry vinegar, Double Vanilla Shortbread, Cocoa nibs, Fleur de Sel, Dacquoise, California Bay Laurel gelee, Shuna's Famous Graham Crackers, and Swiss meringue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GO!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Anthony Bourdain hit the nail on the head in his iconic book Kitchen Confidential, when he said, \"pastry chefs are the neurologists of the kitchen.\" We like things just so, and will stop only at premeditated murder, to make sure it stays this way. We are organized to the point of scary, and we guard our (often tiny) stations like junkyard dogs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pastry chefs like things clean, orderly, in excellent working order, and labeled. When I worked at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bolorestaurant.com/\">Bolo\u003c/a> in NYC, I would lock our station's chinois (fine mesh strainer) in my locker and would refuse the chef's request for it, even when he begged. I knew our pristine chinois would be introduced to garlic, or worse: a 4 oz. ladle. (If you must force something through this expensive, delicate piece of equipment, use the smallest ladle: 1-2 oz.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As some of you know, I've spent the last seven days baking up a storm for \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/05/plated_dessert__1.html\">a major plated dessert tasting\u003c/a> I have today at noon. I'm working primarily out of restaurant kitchen in San Francisco, which is great because, in my one bedroom flat in Berkeley, I don't have a walk-in refrigerator. Nor do I have a row of burners and any number of ovens for various sensitive custards and buttery shortbread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0930.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But working out the details has been a logistical challenge. Lists and lists and lists get made, sometimes twice a day. I'm arranging time sensitive batters, freezing times, a fight for space in an extremely busy establishment, and I want the seven people eating my desserts today to taste the freshest of flavors! I've only been able to be in said kitchen from @ 6:30-9/10 AM a few days, and the rest of the time I'm testing components in my home. I've also wanted to build in time for testing, tasting and re-making if needed. Disasters always take more time than we think they will.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/sfgate/category?blogid=26&cat=840\">The trick to plated desserts is to create a menu that is all things to all people\u003c/a>. Desserts need to be:\u003cbr>Both comforting and innovative, cold and hot, soft and crunchy, smooth and toothsome, sweet and a little salty, a balance of acid and fat, pretty to look at, right-sized and worth the price (don't get me started on this), eaten only with one utensil, have a pronounce-able name on the menu, sweets the waiters like, something you want to eat after that which came before, have a plating style which matches the aesthetic of the dining room/savory food/the diner's outfits, seasonal or mostly chocolate, flavorful or too sweet, dumbed down or esoteric and conceptual.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you can see, it's a tall order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pastry chefs are responsible for feeding you your last morsel. We can help you to leave happy or discouraged. We can save a mediocre meal or confuse a good one with awfulness. We can give you more of what you've been eating since the 80's: creme brulee, warm molten chocolate cake, apple tart, lemon bars, hot fudge sundaes and mint leaf garnishes. Or we can introduce you to fruits at their peak of flavor, subtle herb infused ice creams and pot de cremes, seemingly savory ingredients infiltrating the last course, and allow your imaginations to soar as we push the envelope for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you trust the pastry chef, you can take virtual trips to sights unseen and explored! Beyond your wildest imaginings...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_7946.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_7945.JPG\">\u003cbr>The pastry chef's prep lists at \u003ca href=\"http://www.coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To this end, I bring you a game. The Plated Dessert Menu Game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I give you 6 mains, and a list of possible components. Each main needs at least 3 components to comprise one cohesive plated dessert. You can take creative license with one dessert and add a component that's not on the list, but you have to say why you chose to do so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mains:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Butterscotch pot de creme 2. Carnaroli rice pudding 3. Warm milk chocolate veloute 4. Ricotta cheesecake (this has no crust) 5. Pate a choux doughnuts 6. Lemon Sherbet\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Components:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crunchy poached rhubarb dice, Vanilla Egg Cream, Chantilly, Malt ice cream, Cherries, Brown Butter ice cream, Candied Citrus Zests, Mesquite flour, Rose geranium, Pecan shortbread, Warm chocolate sauce, Cherry vinegar, Double Vanilla Shortbread, Cocoa nibs, Fleur de Sel, Dacquoise, California Bay Laurel gelee, Shuna's Famous Graham Crackers, and Swiss meringue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GO!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0716.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nShuna Lydon & Sherry Yard, both on team #1.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A number of months ago I received an email from an old pastry chef of mine, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/01/shunas-famous-gingerbread.jsp\">Stephen Durfee\u003c/a>, who is now an instructor at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciachef.edu/california/default.asp\">The Culinary Institute of America, Greystone campus in Napa Valley\u003c/a>. He was letting me know I would soon receive an invitation to \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciaprochef.com/bandp_2006/index.html\">The Fifth Annual Worlds of Flavor Baking & Pastry Arts Invitational Retreat\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I thought I would have to respectfully decline, because I am not currently working for a specific establishment. The only name on my chef's jacket is my own. I could not be more grateful that Stephen talked me out of my no.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For 3 1/2 days at the end of April I breathed, thought, emoted, questioned, hypothesized, puzzled over, laughed about, informed, taught, learned, listened, typed, photographed, argued and dreamt pastry and dessert making. {I also \"live-blogged\" it. Find the blow-by-blow \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/pastry_chef_conference_2007/index.html\">by clicking on this link\u003c/a>.}\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0704.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nNotes from the Ideation Session before we went into the kitchen to start creating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0709.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nThe dessert ideas and chef teams that were formed our team's Ideation Session.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From 8:30 am until near 8 pm every day our 70 plus pastry chef and industry representatives' gaggle went from demonstration, to lecture, to lunch, and then at night many of us went out to dine and commiserate. On the last day and a half we were broken up into 5 teams on the basis of various themes and asked to create 4 desserts each.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Team #1, my own, was themed \"Health and Agriculture.\" In the one hour Ideation Session \u003ca href=\"http://www.pastryscoop.com/about_advisory_yard.html\">Sherry Yard\u003c/a> and I threw out a lot of excited ideas, were reigned in, we all picked partners and then walked into the palatial kitchens that make up CIA's kitchen classroom. For the 'fruit dessert' my cohort/teammate was Master Bread Baker \u003ca href=\"http://www.donrockwell.com/index.php?showtopic=346\">Mark Furstenberg\u003c/a> from Washington DC.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea was we would showcase one ingredient, rhubarb. Although rhubarb is not a fruit, it's what's most in season right this minute, and I wanted to show off a special method I have of cooking/treating it, so as to preserve its original integrity, its rhubarb-ness. I like to hot-sugar poach the stalk in such a way as to keep it's crunchy, sour nature. {For a full explanation and recipe, order the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblesanfrancisco.net/ESF/backissues.html\">Spring 2006 issue of Edible San Francisco\u003c/a>, where I went into great detail about osmotic reciprocity and why rhubarb always turns into mushy, stringy baby food when it's introduced to heat.}\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0732.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nVerbena from the Julia Child Gardens at CIA, infused cream and rhubarb juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mark made a slightly savory biscotti of cornmeal and toasted almonds, and besides the rhubarb I wanted something to mediate the textures and flavors of the rhubarb and cornmeal cookie. \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/plated_desserts/index.html\">Plated dessert\u003c/a> making is about balance. Pastry chefs are always thinking about texture, flavor, presentation, sweetness, acid, production, size, plating speed, accessibility, temperature, and the food you ate before eating our courses. The best desserts are the ones not made on autopilot. Don't get me wrong, I like my lemon bars, chocolate eclairs and creme brulee, but I want the pastry chef to be paying attention to all the ingredients to produce the best possible taste sensation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because of rhubarb's high acid content, it likes to be married with fat. I ate at Gary Danko recently and was not surprised to see rhubarb paired with foie gras. Rhubarb likes butter, cream, creme fraiche, and eggs. But the actual flavor of rhubarb is fairly subtle. If I want a diner to really taste it, I try and make pairings that are of complementary, not competitive flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To this end, I made a light and aromatic, herbaceous sabayon. Instead of wine or alcohol, though, I juiced rhubarb raw through an extractor. If you have time for all these steps I can guarantee you an elegant and voluptuous, seasonal dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_41.php\">David Winsberg of Happy Quail Farm\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_41.php\">s\u003c/a> said that he'll have rhubarb through 'til August, but Sabayon is a perfect foil for most fresh fruits, especially berries and stone fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0493.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0495.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>RHUBARB-VERBENA SABAYON\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Large Egg Yolks 4-6 each\u003cbr>\nSugar 1/4 cup\u003cbr>\nHoney 3 Tablespoons + (2 Tablespoons: later)\u003cbr>\nSea or Kosher Salt Pinch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rhubarb Juice 3/4 Cup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Verbena, fresh The leaves from 3 stalks\u003cbr>\nHeavy Cream, not ultra pasteurized 2 Cups (I use Clover Organic.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_54.php\">Knoll Farms\u003c/a> has some of the best Verbena available in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Infuse cream and lightly crushed Verbena leaves and stems in a non-reactive pot by heating with low flame until hot. Shut off heat and let steep for at least one hour, preferably more. Do not allow mixture to boil. You can sprinkle in a little sugar to help with infusion.\u003cbr>\n2. After cream has steeped, turn flame to medium until hot to the touch and strain through a fine meshed sieve. Chill cream in ice batch until very cold. (This step may be done 1-2 days before making Sabayon.)\u003cbr>\n3. Combine first four ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer. Whisk yolks to break apart before adding sugar and salt.\u003cbr>\n4. Set bowl over a pot of boiling water. Bottom of bowl should not touch water. The steam is what's cooking the Sabayon.\u003cbr>\n5. Whisk thoroughly and rapidly, without pause, and, using your other hand, pour rhubarb juice into yolks a little at a time, letting custard thicken a little before adding more. When all liquid has been added, whisk until mixture holds a visible \"trail\" and has become quite thick.\u003cbr>\n6. Place bowl on stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment and set speed to medium. Add extra 2 Tablespoons of honey now. If it looks like honey spun to attach itself to the side of the bowl, stop mixer and scrape down Sabayon with a spatula to combine.\u003cbr>\n7. Increasing speed incrementally, whisk until custard is light and voluminous.\u003cbr>\n8. Whisk Verbena infused cream until soft peaks form.\u003cbr>\n9. When Sabayon is ready, transfer into a larger bowl.\u003cbr>\n10. Using the most pliable spatula in your kitchen, fold whipped cream into Sabayon in three distinctive additions. Fold intentionally, from the inside of the bowl to the outermost edge. Each stroke counts. If you over mix these two ingredients your Sabayon will deflate to the point of liquidization.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0742.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nRhubarb-Verbena Sabayon with Crunchy Poached Rhubarb, Corn-Almond Biscotti and Marshall Farms Star Thistle Honey. Pastry Chef Authors: Shuna Lydon & Mark Furstenberg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sabayon keeps, refrigerated, for 1 day, but it is best the day it is made.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0716.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nShuna Lydon & Sherry Yard, both on team #1.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A number of months ago I received an email from an old pastry chef of mine, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/01/shunas-famous-gingerbread.jsp\">Stephen Durfee\u003c/a>, who is now an instructor at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciachef.edu/california/default.asp\">The Culinary Institute of America, Greystone campus in Napa Valley\u003c/a>. He was letting me know I would soon receive an invitation to \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciaprochef.com/bandp_2006/index.html\">The Fifth Annual Worlds of Flavor Baking & Pastry Arts Invitational Retreat\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I thought I would have to respectfully decline, because I am not currently working for a specific establishment. The only name on my chef's jacket is my own. I could not be more grateful that Stephen talked me out of my no.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For 3 1/2 days at the end of April I breathed, thought, emoted, questioned, hypothesized, puzzled over, laughed about, informed, taught, learned, listened, typed, photographed, argued and dreamt pastry and dessert making. {I also \"live-blogged\" it. Find the blow-by-blow \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/pastry_chef_conference_2007/index.html\">by clicking on this link\u003c/a>.}\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0704.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nNotes from the Ideation Session before we went into the kitchen to start creating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0709.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nThe dessert ideas and chef teams that were formed our team's Ideation Session.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From 8:30 am until near 8 pm every day our 70 plus pastry chef and industry representatives' gaggle went from demonstration, to lecture, to lunch, and then at night many of us went out to dine and commiserate. On the last day and a half we were broken up into 5 teams on the basis of various themes and asked to create 4 desserts each.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Team #1, my own, was themed \"Health and Agriculture.\" In the one hour Ideation Session \u003ca href=\"http://www.pastryscoop.com/about_advisory_yard.html\">Sherry Yard\u003c/a> and I threw out a lot of excited ideas, were reigned in, we all picked partners and then walked into the palatial kitchens that make up CIA's kitchen classroom. For the 'fruit dessert' my cohort/teammate was Master Bread Baker \u003ca href=\"http://www.donrockwell.com/index.php?showtopic=346\">Mark Furstenberg\u003c/a> from Washington DC.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea was we would showcase one ingredient, rhubarb. Although rhubarb is not a fruit, it's what's most in season right this minute, and I wanted to show off a special method I have of cooking/treating it, so as to preserve its original integrity, its rhubarb-ness. I like to hot-sugar poach the stalk in such a way as to keep it's crunchy, sour nature. {For a full explanation and recipe, order the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblesanfrancisco.net/ESF/backissues.html\">Spring 2006 issue of Edible San Francisco\u003c/a>, where I went into great detail about osmotic reciprocity and why rhubarb always turns into mushy, stringy baby food when it's introduced to heat.}\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0732.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nVerbena from the Julia Child Gardens at CIA, infused cream and rhubarb juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mark made a slightly savory biscotti of cornmeal and toasted almonds, and besides the rhubarb I wanted something to mediate the textures and flavors of the rhubarb and cornmeal cookie. \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/plated_desserts/index.html\">Plated dessert\u003c/a> making is about balance. Pastry chefs are always thinking about texture, flavor, presentation, sweetness, acid, production, size, plating speed, accessibility, temperature, and the food you ate before eating our courses. The best desserts are the ones not made on autopilot. Don't get me wrong, I like my lemon bars, chocolate eclairs and creme brulee, but I want the pastry chef to be paying attention to all the ingredients to produce the best possible taste sensation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because of rhubarb's high acid content, it likes to be married with fat. I ate at Gary Danko recently and was not surprised to see rhubarb paired with foie gras. Rhubarb likes butter, cream, creme fraiche, and eggs. But the actual flavor of rhubarb is fairly subtle. If I want a diner to really taste it, I try and make pairings that are of complementary, not competitive flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To this end, I made a light and aromatic, herbaceous sabayon. Instead of wine or alcohol, though, I juiced rhubarb raw through an extractor. If you have time for all these steps I can guarantee you an elegant and voluptuous, seasonal dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_41.php\">David Winsberg of Happy Quail Farm\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_41.php\">s\u003c/a> said that he'll have rhubarb through 'til August, but Sabayon is a perfect foil for most fresh fruits, especially berries and stone fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0493.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0495.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>RHUBARB-VERBENA SABAYON\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Large Egg Yolks 4-6 each\u003cbr>\nSugar 1/4 cup\u003cbr>\nHoney 3 Tablespoons + (2 Tablespoons: later)\u003cbr>\nSea or Kosher Salt Pinch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rhubarb Juice 3/4 Cup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Verbena, fresh The leaves from 3 stalks\u003cbr>\nHeavy Cream, not ultra pasteurized 2 Cups (I use Clover Organic.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*\u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_54.php\">Knoll Farms\u003c/a> has some of the best Verbena available in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Infuse cream and lightly crushed Verbena leaves and stems in a non-reactive pot by heating with low flame until hot. Shut off heat and let steep for at least one hour, preferably more. Do not allow mixture to boil. You can sprinkle in a little sugar to help with infusion.\u003cbr>\n2. After cream has steeped, turn flame to medium until hot to the touch and strain through a fine meshed sieve. Chill cream in ice batch until very cold. (This step may be done 1-2 days before making Sabayon.)\u003cbr>\n3. Combine first four ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer. Whisk yolks to break apart before adding sugar and salt.\u003cbr>\n4. Set bowl over a pot of boiling water. Bottom of bowl should not touch water. The steam is what's cooking the Sabayon.\u003cbr>\n5. Whisk thoroughly and rapidly, without pause, and, using your other hand, pour rhubarb juice into yolks a little at a time, letting custard thicken a little before adding more. When all liquid has been added, whisk until mixture holds a visible \"trail\" and has become quite thick.\u003cbr>\n6. Place bowl on stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment and set speed to medium. Add extra 2 Tablespoons of honey now. If it looks like honey spun to attach itself to the side of the bowl, stop mixer and scrape down Sabayon with a spatula to combine.\u003cbr>\n7. Increasing speed incrementally, whisk until custard is light and voluminous.\u003cbr>\n8. Whisk Verbena infused cream until soft peaks form.\u003cbr>\n9. When Sabayon is ready, transfer into a larger bowl.\u003cbr>\n10. Using the most pliable spatula in your kitchen, fold whipped cream into Sabayon in three distinctive additions. Fold intentionally, from the inside of the bowl to the outermost edge. Each stroke counts. If you over mix these two ingredients your Sabayon will deflate to the point of liquidization.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0742.JPG\">\u003cbr>\nRhubarb-Verbena Sabayon with Crunchy Poached Rhubarb, Corn-Almond Biscotti and Marshall Farms Star Thistle Honey. Pastry Chef Authors: Shuna Lydon & Mark Furstenberg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0224.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Continued from \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/04/sourdough-tutorial-local-bloggers-share.jsp\">Part One on Monday April 16\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In California we have more than our fair share of live yeast in the air. \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sourdough\">Catching it and turning it into \"sourdough starter\" or \"natural starter\" is pretty easy\u003c/a>. All one needs to do is to feed one's starter with cold water and bread flour every week or so. The concept of the 100 years old starter, though, is negligible. But I'm not here to rain on your sourdough starter parade. Although I will mention that sourdough is just that. It was not, originally, a nice thing to say about one's bread. It meant bad. It meant that your bread had gone off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like trifle, sourdough was originally a mistake. Or an exaggeration of a mistake. I have heard more than one Master Bread Baker disparage sourdough bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, for the sake of clarity, sourdough bread and sourdough starter are not the same. It is possible to make bread from live yeast cultures, whether they are from wheat or grapes or some other source, and not have it \"taste sour.\" Although the nomenclature is the same, there's an argument here for saying starter when one means just that, and sourdough starter when one means the starter to make sourdough bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, who's on first?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0213.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All this being said, I had quite a lot of fun and education whilst hanging out with the humble Dylan of \u003ca href=\"http://sourdoughmonkeywrangler.blogspot.com/\">Sourdough Monkey Wrangler\u003c/a>. A student of the live yeast culture, this man has come far in his self-education of all things involving bread flour. And he's neat and clean to boot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is there someone in your community you want to learn from? Maybe pick up a new skill? What stops you from calling them? Do you feel like they need to be paid for their time? Do you have anything to barter?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my profession we have open doors for barter. I can give my time to just about any chef in whose kitchen I want to learn. We call this a \"trail\" or a \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/06/stagiere_manres.html\">stagiere\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In March, Dylan came to \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/02/baking_classes__1.html\">one of my classes\u003c/a>, and afterwards brought me some sourdough inspired gifts. Very lucky for me there was a generous bag of homemade English muffins. I could not have been happier!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love English muffins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0234.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dylan's English muffin recipe is based on one he found at \u003ca href=\"http://bakingbites.com/2005/12/cooking-school-sourdough-english-muffins/#more-286\">Nicole's Baking Bites\u003c/a>. He adapts his to include favorite locally grown and milled whole wheat flour from \u003ca href=\"http://www.fullbellyfarm.com/about.html\">Full Belly Farm\u003c/a>, as well as milk instead of water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Milk is a traditional addition to English muffins, as well as Crumpets, which are basically English muffins, but griddled on only one side. In bread, milk becomes a softener. It feeds the yeast an alternative, tastier sugar, and the butterfat relaxes the crumb for a more pliable mouth feel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0279.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When one bakes bread, a baked good of few ingredients, one must really know what each ingredient does, can do and is doing. Yeast, obviously, helps things rise. But the more you use, the faster bread goes stale. (The same goes for baking powder.) Flour and water combine to bind bread. But inherent in most flours is gluten. Gluten is protein, in its simplest terms, and, once \"activated,\" is the structure builder, the 2X4's of bread doughs. Without gluten, there is no barn to raise. This, \u003ca href=\"http://www.grindstonebakery.com/allproducts.htm\">as we well know in Northern California\u003c/a>, does not mean bread cannot be made without gluten. Tall, light bread, though, cannot be made without gluten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sugar, even the sugar that exists in the starch of the flour, feeds the yeast. Yeast is an animal, albeit a small single-celled one. (Ask the vegans if yeast is an animal they won't eat, and you will get a myriad of answers.) It eats sugar and emits gas (carbon dioxide), creating the bubbles that will, hours later, become the holes, or the nooks & crannies, in your bread. When flour has enough protein in it, the bubbles will keep their shape as they encircle the gas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In bread, everything after yeast, flour, and water is dessert. Fat, in any form, is a softener. I'm not talking Wonder Bread here; I'm talking a palatable mouth feel. Think matzoh compared to challah, or French bread compared to brioche. Most people would rather make bread pudding or French toast with brioche, rather than ciabatta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flavorings are just that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0284.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When working with natural starters one can develop far more flavor in bread. This is a funny sentence if you've not made bread. The concept is that the longer it takes to \"proof\" bread, or make it rise, the better the overall end result will be. Yeast does not like to be rushed. In turn, if you give it all the atmospheric elements it loves: humidity, mild warmth, time, it gives you rewards tenfold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bread tastes best when all you taste is bread. It's why Tartine's bread has such a following, even though it has more restrictions than a reservation at The French Laundry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have never been the type of person to have and keep a natural starter around. Dylan has a worm farm in his kitchen for easy apartment composting. I guerilla compost. Dylan rides his bike, I drive. Dylan feeds his starters on a schedule, I water my plants to keep them looking pretty on my window ledge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in the past weeks I've done some natural starter experiments. The recipes he gave me are a 3-day process. Day one you feed the starter and keep it out on the counter. Use a larger bowl than you need and make sure it's not metal. Day two combine starter with milk and flours. Day three add rest of flour, baking soda, salt and sugar, proof and begin muffin production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0290.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>English muffin production looks like this:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Knead dough a bit. The longer you knead it, the more likely it will hold it's round shape later and rise evenly. Roll dough out, cut, lay on heavily floured (or cornmeal covered) sheet, proof in a warm-ish, moist place (Dylan puts a measuring cup of very hot water in the oven for a more controlled atmosphere), and griddle until done. \"Fork\" to open, toast and eat with the best butter you can get your hands on. Have you eaten \u003ca href=\"http://cloverstornetta.com/show/xmlsite/xml-standard.xml/xsl-generic_list_1_page.xsl/start_id-bbpcajhlodngclgcnihnangmmehkglbabobpmcal/\">Clover's new Organic butter\u003c/a> line yet? It's the bomb. So to speak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wouldn't call this the simplest, most efficient way to get to English muffins, but I will say that all the steps are important and worth it in the end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dylan and I use \u003ca href=\"http://www.kingarthurflour.com/flour/home.html\">King Arthur bread flour\u003c/a>, the blue paper bag. King Arthur has been extremely helpful when it comes to answering my questions about the protein contents and wheat origins of their flours. (Northern wheat is considered \"stronger\" with higher protein than Southern grown wheat that is considered \"softer,\" White Lily being the best example.) \u003ca href=\"http://www.worldpantry.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/giustos/home.d2w/report\">Giusto's\u003c/a> is a local company, but I can't seem to get them on the phone to answer questions to save my life. If you long to buy flour in bulk, which is less expensive than paying for the pretty packaging, head over to Rainbow Grocery in SF or Berkeley Bowl in the East Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most \"sourdough\" people will share a bit of their starter with you if this is the extra hobby you've been waiting for. For all your spare time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0298.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even if you take the time to make a starter which you keep alive for a few months in order to make two or three batches of these glorious homemade English muffins, I can guarantee you at least one happy mouth, your own, if not a messianic following. Not to mention the immeasurable learning one acquires from understanding the basics in the relationship between flour, yeast, air and water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a chance that Dylan and I will co-teach a class on this very subject. \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/classes/index.html\">Keep up with this link\u003c/a> for announcements.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, who's on first?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0213.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All this being said, I had quite a lot of fun and education whilst hanging out with the humble Dylan of \u003ca href=\"http://sourdoughmonkeywrangler.blogspot.com/\">Sourdough Monkey Wrangler\u003c/a>. A student of the live yeast culture, this man has come far in his self-education of all things involving bread flour. And he's neat and clean to boot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is there someone in your community you want to learn from? Maybe pick up a new skill? What stops you from calling them? Do you feel like they need to be paid for their time? Do you have anything to barter?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my profession we have open doors for barter. I can give my time to just about any chef in whose kitchen I want to learn. We call this a \"trail\" or a \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/06/stagiere_manres.html\">stagiere\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In March, Dylan came to \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/02/baking_classes__1.html\">one of my classes\u003c/a>, and afterwards brought me some sourdough inspired gifts. Very lucky for me there was a generous bag of homemade English muffins. I could not have been happier!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love English muffins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0234.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dylan's English muffin recipe is based on one he found at \u003ca href=\"http://bakingbites.com/2005/12/cooking-school-sourdough-english-muffins/#more-286\">Nicole's Baking Bites\u003c/a>. He adapts his to include favorite locally grown and milled whole wheat flour from \u003ca href=\"http://www.fullbellyfarm.com/about.html\">Full Belly Farm\u003c/a>, as well as milk instead of water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Milk is a traditional addition to English muffins, as well as Crumpets, which are basically English muffins, but griddled on only one side. In bread, milk becomes a softener. It feeds the yeast an alternative, tastier sugar, and the butterfat relaxes the crumb for a more pliable mouth feel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0279.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When one bakes bread, a baked good of few ingredients, one must really know what each ingredient does, can do and is doing. Yeast, obviously, helps things rise. But the more you use, the faster bread goes stale. (The same goes for baking powder.) Flour and water combine to bind bread. But inherent in most flours is gluten. Gluten is protein, in its simplest terms, and, once \"activated,\" is the structure builder, the 2X4's of bread doughs. Without gluten, there is no barn to raise. This, \u003ca href=\"http://www.grindstonebakery.com/allproducts.htm\">as we well know in Northern California\u003c/a>, does not mean bread cannot be made without gluten. Tall, light bread, though, cannot be made without gluten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sugar, even the sugar that exists in the starch of the flour, feeds the yeast. Yeast is an animal, albeit a small single-celled one. (Ask the vegans if yeast is an animal they won't eat, and you will get a myriad of answers.) It eats sugar and emits gas (carbon dioxide), creating the bubbles that will, hours later, become the holes, or the nooks & crannies, in your bread. When flour has enough protein in it, the bubbles will keep their shape as they encircle the gas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In bread, everything after yeast, flour, and water is dessert. Fat, in any form, is a softener. I'm not talking Wonder Bread here; I'm talking a palatable mouth feel. Think matzoh compared to challah, or French bread compared to brioche. Most people would rather make bread pudding or French toast with brioche, rather than ciabatta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flavorings are just that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0284.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When working with natural starters one can develop far more flavor in bread. This is a funny sentence if you've not made bread. The concept is that the longer it takes to \"proof\" bread, or make it rise, the better the overall end result will be. Yeast does not like to be rushed. In turn, if you give it all the atmospheric elements it loves: humidity, mild warmth, time, it gives you rewards tenfold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bread tastes best when all you taste is bread. It's why Tartine's bread has such a following, even though it has more restrictions than a reservation at The French Laundry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have never been the type of person to have and keep a natural starter around. Dylan has a worm farm in his kitchen for easy apartment composting. I guerilla compost. Dylan rides his bike, I drive. Dylan feeds his starters on a schedule, I water my plants to keep them looking pretty on my window ledge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in the past weeks I've done some natural starter experiments. The recipes he gave me are a 3-day process. Day one you feed the starter and keep it out on the counter. Use a larger bowl than you need and make sure it's not metal. Day two combine starter with milk and flours. Day three add rest of flour, baking soda, salt and sugar, proof and begin muffin production.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0290.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>English muffin production looks like this:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Knead dough a bit. The longer you knead it, the more likely it will hold it's round shape later and rise evenly. Roll dough out, cut, lay on heavily floured (or cornmeal covered) sheet, proof in a warm-ish, moist place (Dylan puts a measuring cup of very hot water in the oven for a more controlled atmosphere), and griddle until done. \"Fork\" to open, toast and eat with the best butter you can get your hands on. Have you eaten \u003ca href=\"http://cloverstornetta.com/show/xmlsite/xml-standard.xml/xsl-generic_list_1_page.xsl/start_id-bbpcajhlodngclgcnihnangmmehkglbabobpmcal/\">Clover's new Organic butter\u003c/a> line yet? It's the bomb. 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"info": "KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/news/series/baycurious",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 3
},
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}
},
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"id": "bbc-world-service",
"title": "BBC World Service",
"info": "The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service",
"meta": {
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"source": "BBC World Service"
},
"link": "/radio/program/bbc-world-service",
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"rss": "https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"
}
},
"californiareport": {
"id": "californiareport",
"title": "The California Report",
"tagline": "California, day by day",
"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-California-Report-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareport",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 8
},
"link": "/californiareport",
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}
},
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"title": "The California Report Magazine",
"tagline": "Your state, your stories",
"info": "Every week, The California Report Magazine takes you on a road trip for the ears: to visit the places and meet the people who make California unique. The in-depth storytelling podcast from the California Report.",
"airtime": "FRI 4:30pm-5pm, 6:30pm-7pm, 11pm-11:30pm",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareportmagazine",
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"order": 10
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM3NjkwNjk1OTAz",
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},
"city-arts": {
"id": "city-arts",
"title": "City Arts & Lectures",
"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/05/cityartsandlecture-300x300.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.cityarts.net/",
"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
"subscribe": {
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/City-Arts-and-Lectures-p692/",
"rss": "https://www.cityarts.net/feed/"
}
},
"closealltabs": {
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"info": "Close All Tabs breaks down how digital culture shapes our world through thoughtful insights and irreverent humor.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/closealltabs",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 1
},
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"id": "code-switch-life-kit",
"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"meta": {
"site": "radio",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit",
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},
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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},
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"id": "forum",
"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
"link": "/forum",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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"freakonomics-radio": {
"id": "freakonomics-radio",
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"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
"airtime": "SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
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},
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"id": "fresh-air",
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"link": "/radio/program/fresh-air",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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},
"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
"title": "Hidden Brain",
"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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},
"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/howIBuiltThis.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this",
"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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},
"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"order": 15
},
"link": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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}
},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
}
},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "http://mastersofscale.app.link/",
"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
"subscribe": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
"npr": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast",
"stitcher": "https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share",
"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"
}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
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