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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Jacques Pépin: More Fast Food My Way\u003c/span>\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/07/214-jpepinmff-filletsole-recipe.pdf\">\u003cb>Printer-friendly recipe\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> [pdf]\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In this recipe, strips of fillet of sole are rolled to form what French cooks call \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">paupiettes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. Rolled beginning at the thickest end, the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">paupiettes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> will not unfurl as they cook. Using whipped butter makes the preparation easier, because when the butter boils it holds together without breaking down as regular butter might.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The traditional version is made with wine, cream, and mushrooms, but Sole Normande can include cider, tomatoes, herbs, or even cooked apple, all Normandy products.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Any of the different types of flatfish available, from gray to lemon to Dover sole and from fluke to flounder, are fine for this recipe; the important consideration is freshness. \u003cem>—Jacques Pépin\u003c/em>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>4 servings\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">4 large sole fillets (about 5 ounces each)\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">2 cups sliced white mushrooms\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1/3 cup sliced scallions\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1/3 cup sliced shallots\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1 cup dry white wine\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1/2 cup whipped unsalted butter\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives, for garnish\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Cut each fillet in half lengthwise, removing and discarding the small strip of sinew from the center of the fillets. With the white side that touched the bones on the outside of the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">paupiettes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, roll up the fillets, starting at the thick end.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Gently place the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">paupiettes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> and the remaining ingredients, except the butter and chives, in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat, and boil gently for about 3 minutes.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Holding the lid so the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">paupiettes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> remain in the pan, pour the cooking liquid into a small saucepan and place it over high heat. Boil for a few minutes, or until the liquid is reduced to about 1/3 cup. Add the whipped butter and mix in well with a whisk. Bring to a boil and boil for a few seconds.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Divide the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">paupiettes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> and mushrooms among four warm plates, pour the sauce on top, and sprinkle on the chives. Serve immediately.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Jacques Pépin: More Fast Food My Way\u003c/span>\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/07/214-jpepinmff-filletsole-recipe.pdf\">\u003cb>Printer-friendly recipe\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> [pdf]\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In this recipe, strips of fillet of sole are rolled to form what French cooks call \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">paupiettes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. Rolled beginning at the thickest end, the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">paupiettes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> will not unfurl as they cook. Using whipped butter makes the preparation easier, because when the butter boils it holds together without breaking down as regular butter might.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The traditional version is made with wine, cream, and mushrooms, but Sole Normande can include cider, tomatoes, herbs, or even cooked apple, all Normandy products.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Any of the different types of flatfish available, from gray to lemon to Dover sole and from fluke to flounder, are fine for this recipe; the important consideration is freshness. \u003cem>—Jacques Pépin\u003c/em>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>4 servings\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">4 large sole fillets (about 5 ounces each)\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">2 cups sliced white mushrooms\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1/3 cup sliced scallions\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1/3 cup sliced shallots\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1 cup dry white wine\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1/2 cup whipped unsalted butter\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives, for garnish\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Cut each fillet in half lengthwise, removing and discarding the small strip of sinew from the center of the fillets. With the white side that touched the bones on the outside of the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">paupiettes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, roll up the fillets, starting at the thick end.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Gently place the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">paupiettes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> and the remaining ingredients, except the butter and chives, in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat, and boil gently for about 3 minutes.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Holding the lid so the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">paupiettes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> remain in the pan, pour the cooking liquid into a small saucepan and place it over high heat. Boil for a few minutes, or until the liquid is reduced to about 1/3 cup. Add the whipped butter and mix in well with a whisk. Bring to a boil and boil for a few seconds.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Divide the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">paupiettes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> and mushrooms among four warm plates, pour the sauce on top, and sprinkle on the chives. Serve immediately.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Dining in the Bay Area can mean lots of optimized salad bars and grain bowls inhaled between meetings. Here, KQED staffers share recent meals that demanded we slow down and enjoy them thoroughly.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_134814,bayareabites_20347,bayareabites_115175' label='More dumplings, Italian Christmas memories and Nyum Bai']\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Northern Chinese Dumplings at Yuanbao Jiaozi\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Dumplings are my happy food. I particularly love the Northern Chinese style of doughy, plump dumplings. You can feel the handiwork in each piece, hand-rolled and adorned with perfectly imperfect dimples. At Yuanbao Jiaozi, located in San Francisco’s Outer Sunset neighborhood, it’s fun to watch the ladies in the window working steadily and skillfully to create these ingot-shaped treasures. Each dumpling is boiled to order and delivered to your table from the vat of scalding water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mom, who grew up in Taiwan, was delighted by Yuanbao Jiaozi’s unique offering of seafood dumplings during our dinner. Standouts included sole fish and shiitake mushrooms, sole fish and green pepper, as well as the shrimp and zucchini dumplings—all filling combinations I had never come across in my food expeditions in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I can’t order dumplings without a side of noodle soup. Nothing like carb on carb! For this visit, I ordered the pickled Chinese cabbage and beef noodle soup, whose bright, acidic flavors and beefy broth complemented the dumplings’ more subtle profile.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I love about Yuanbao Jiaozi’s dumplings is that firm, doughy consistency. In Italy, this prized texture is described as “al dente.” In Taiwan, it’s referred to as “Q,”, pronounced like the letter, often used to describe the ideal \"toothiness\" of boba or stewed beef tendon. Well, Yuanbao Jiaozi’s dumplings definitely have that “Q.” Dipped in a bit of the chili oil provided in jars at each table, with a steaming side of noodle soup—that’s pure comfort to me.—\u003cem>Vic Chin, Coordinating Producer, Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136072\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 985px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136072\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro.png\" alt=\"Pandoro, panettone's dry fruit free cousin.\" width=\"985\" height=\"1024\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro.png 985w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro-160x166.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro-800x832.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro-768x798.png 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 985px) 100vw, 985px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pandoro, panettone's dried fruit free cousin. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Pandoro, a Satisfying Winter Dessert\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>As a child, I made the compromise of eating around the raisins and candied fruits of panettone. A holiday dessert tradition that spread from Italy to East Africa and South America, panettone’s tall, trapezoidal boxes hang like decorations on Christmas across many homes around the world. Lately, instead of leaving a trail of dried fruits on my plate, I opt for pandoro, a cousin to panettone that features a similarly egg-enriched, fermented dough without any interruptions from lifeless fruits. Finished off with a dusting of sugar on its distinct triangular ridges, pandoro is a sight to behold. (Some cut the bread horizontally and stack it to resemble a snowy Christmas tree.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pandoro and panettone’s appeal live in their airy, soft texture, which is achieved through the sweet bread’s patient rising period. Both breads pair well with coffee and tea, and absorb whipped mascarpone and other toppings especially well when toasted. Never a cloying dessert, pandoro is balanced in its sugar—a satisfying sweet that doesn’t leave you sluggish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>May it be through the local East African population or the region’s European inclinations, Bay Area grocery stores seem to always carry panettone and its different iterations from December into the new year. Some years back, I noticed Trader Joe’s offered a chocolate panettone. Though markedly sweeter, chocolate is much more acceptable than dried fruit in my opinion. One can also find the holiday sweet bread at various Eritrean and Ethiopian specialty food stores like Zion Market on Oakland’s Telegraph Avenue. Lucky for me, the variety means I never have to eat around raisins and candied oranges.—\u003cem>Ruth Gebreyesus, Food Reporter and Visual Arts Columnist\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B6i09QQBxXM/\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Cha La Pov at Nyum Bai\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Since its brick-and-mortar opening in 2018, Cambodian eatery Nyum Bai has become one of the most well reviewed restaurants in the Bay Area, collecting a Bib Gourmand pick from Michelin and a semifinalist nod from the James Beard Awards along the way. Even with this fanfare, chef Nite Yun’s restaurant, tucked in a corner of the complex across from Fruitvale BART station, continues to offer affordable and delightful dishes like cha la pov, a stir fried kabocha squash dish with ground chicken and eggs, topped with chrysanthemum and scallions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Served with a bowl of rice, the plate featured a mix of ingredients that I hadn’t seen together. Yet it delivered a familiar joy—a balanced offering of starch and protein, lightly sweet but decidedly savory. I’m sometimes too lazy to cook kabocha at home because its shell can be more work than a softer squash, so I was happy to encounter the seasonally appropriate gourd at Nyum Bai. And though I can’t say I detected the chrysanthemum in the dish, the scallions provided a bright zing—both visually and in terms of taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The part of cha la pov I’m still thinking about is the ground chicken: clumped together by the egg, it provided a really satisfying bite. I’d never think to mix chicken and eggs in that way, but now I can’t help but think chicken is a great alternative to pork, and even a first choice as a flavor-absorbing, textured meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next morning, I ate the leftover rice and cha la pov for breakfast. Maybe it was my hunger or the rice and stir fry spending all night mingling in the same container, but it tasted even better.—\u003cem>Ruth Gebreyesus\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I love about Yuanbao Jiaozi’s dumplings is that firm, doughy consistency. In Italy, this prized texture is described as “al dente.” In Taiwan, it’s referred to as “Q,”, pronounced like the letter, often used to describe the ideal \"toothiness\" of boba or stewed beef tendon. Well, Yuanbao Jiaozi’s dumplings definitely have that “Q.” Dipped in a bit of the chili oil provided in jars at each table, with a steaming side of noodle soup—that’s pure comfort to me.—\u003cem>Vic Chin, Coordinating Producer, Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136072\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 985px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136072\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro.png\" alt=\"Pandoro, panettone's dry fruit free cousin.\" width=\"985\" height=\"1024\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro.png 985w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro-160x166.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro-800x832.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro-768x798.png 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 985px) 100vw, 985px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pandoro, panettone's dried fruit free cousin. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Pandoro, a Satisfying Winter Dessert\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>As a child, I made the compromise of eating around the raisins and candied fruits of panettone. A holiday dessert tradition that spread from Italy to East Africa and South America, panettone’s tall, trapezoidal boxes hang like decorations on Christmas across many homes around the world. Lately, instead of leaving a trail of dried fruits on my plate, I opt for pandoro, a cousin to panettone that features a similarly egg-enriched, fermented dough without any interruptions from lifeless fruits. Finished off with a dusting of sugar on its distinct triangular ridges, pandoro is a sight to behold. (Some cut the bread horizontally and stack it to resemble a snowy Christmas tree.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pandoro and panettone’s appeal live in their airy, soft texture, which is achieved through the sweet bread’s patient rising period. Both breads pair well with coffee and tea, and absorb whipped mascarpone and other toppings especially well when toasted. Never a cloying dessert, pandoro is balanced in its sugar—a satisfying sweet that doesn’t leave you sluggish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>May it be through the local East African population or the region’s European inclinations, Bay Area grocery stores seem to always carry panettone and its different iterations from December into the new year. Some years back, I noticed Trader Joe’s offered a chocolate panettone. Though markedly sweeter, chocolate is much more acceptable than dried fruit in my opinion. One can also find the holiday sweet bread at various Eritrean and Ethiopian specialty food stores like Zion Market on Oakland’s Telegraph Avenue. Lucky for me, the variety means I never have to eat around raisins and candied oranges.—\u003cem>Ruth Gebreyesus, Food Reporter and Visual Arts Columnist\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003ch2>Cha La Pov at Nyum Bai\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Since its brick-and-mortar opening in 2018, Cambodian eatery Nyum Bai has become one of the most well reviewed restaurants in the Bay Area, collecting a Bib Gourmand pick from Michelin and a semifinalist nod from the James Beard Awards along the way. Even with this fanfare, chef Nite Yun’s restaurant, tucked in a corner of the complex across from Fruitvale BART station, continues to offer affordable and delightful dishes like cha la pov, a stir fried kabocha squash dish with ground chicken and eggs, topped with chrysanthemum and scallions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Served with a bowl of rice, the plate featured a mix of ingredients that I hadn’t seen together. Yet it delivered a familiar joy—a balanced offering of starch and protein, lightly sweet but decidedly savory. I’m sometimes too lazy to cook kabocha at home because its shell can be more work than a softer squash, so I was happy to encounter the seasonally appropriate gourd at Nyum Bai. And though I can’t say I detected the chrysanthemum in the dish, the scallions provided a bright zing—both visually and in terms of taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The part of cha la pov I’m still thinking about is the ground chicken: clumped together by the egg, it provided a really satisfying bite. I’d never think to mix chicken and eggs in that way, but now I can’t help but think chicken is a great alternative to pork, and even a first choice as a flavor-absorbing, textured meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next morning, I ate the leftover rice and cha la pov for breakfast. Maybe it was my hunger or the rice and stir fry spending all night mingling in the same container, but it tasted even better.—\u003cem>Ruth Gebreyesus\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_111409,bayareabites_133521' label='More on Seafood']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vulca\">G\u003cem>host Fleet\u003c/em>\u003c/a> is a gripping new documentary about modern-day slaves in the Thai fishing industry. The film delves into the sordid labor practices of an industry that supplies the United States, Europe and Asia with seafood, but it does so by focusing on the compelling work of Bangkok-based Patima Tungpuchayakul, an abolitionist who has devoted her life to helping \"lost\" men return home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She works with a former slave, Tun Lin, who was kidnapped when he was 14 and forced to fish without pay for 11 years. Together, they visit remote islands in Southeast Asia, where captive men have lived for years — never seeing their families until Tungpuchayakul and her team show up and free them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The documentary grew out of a piece co-director Shannon Service and a colleague \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2012/06/19/155045295/confined-to-a-thai-fishing-boat-for-three-years\">did for NPR\u003c/a> in 2012 — a story then followed up by \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>, AP, the\u003cem> Guardian\u003c/em>, and others. But the film has an emotional power that's missing from the news reports, captured in the lines etched on the men's faces, in their tears, in the remote tropical locations where the film takes place, and in the strength of the protagonist, Tungpuchayakul.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shannon took time out of her busy screening schedule for the film (\u003ca href=\"https://www.vulcanproductions.com/ghostfleet/thefilm\">which is currently playing in selected theatres in the U.S.\u003c/a>) to talk about the project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/uws9Pk33gqs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did the film come about?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been on this story for seven years. I started with another reporter, Becky Palstrom, and together we spent six months looking into slavery in the Thai fishing industry. We were investigating how it was that tens or hundreds of thousands of men have crossed borders, gone into policed ports, gone out to sea, and disappeared, and nobody was really talking about it. The story took us across Southeast Asia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While we were doing this reporting, it also became obvious that the underbelly of the fishing industry was a crazy, fascinating world. Each one of the men we interviewed could have had a Hollywood film scripted about him. These men left home with the best of intentions to support their family; they were convinced to go into Thailand, or they just walked into a bar and were drugged and woke up on board. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They're living in the space of an 18-wheeler, saving each others' lives, keeping each other sane and enduring incredible hardship. Some of them had never seen the ocean before, or swam, and suddenly they're on a boat for many years. If they do see land, they'll grab something that floats, jump into the water to escape, land on an island, and then sleep in trees to avoid snakes. Or they'll marry into an indigenous community, but their actual family thinks they're dead. And they have no hope of getting home. Doing the radio doc, it became clear to me it needed to be a film. And luckily Jeffrey Waldron (co-director) and Greg Kwedar (co-producer) heard the radio piece and contacted me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134150\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1259px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"View of an Asian fishing vessel, with men asleep on deck.\" width=\"1259\" height=\"709\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134150\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85.jpg 1259w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-800x451.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-1200x676.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1259px) 100vw, 1259px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">View of an Asian fishing vessel, with men asleep on deck. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Ghost Fleet)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What was the process of making this film over so many years?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You go shoot a little bit, raise money, shoot more, raise more money. Luckily, there were ocean-focused groups who really saw what we saw: That slavery is the Achilles' heel of overfishing — these boats went further and further from shore and they needed a labor force. So human traffickers stepped into the gap and started selling people. If you have to adhere to good labor standards, decent pay, and get men home to their families, you can't send these boats around the world skirting international and national laws to catch fish. We got a number of oceans organizations and people on board, including the director of \"\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4KRD8e20fBo\">The Cove\u003c/a>,\" co-producer and \u003ca href=\"https://www.vulcanproductions.com/\">Vulcan Productions\u003c/a>, and they've been absolutely critical. They understood that the film was about the intersection of food, human rights and environmental advocacy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Was there pushback because your characters do not speak English — they aren't the white environmentalist saving the world? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You're right, and it's definitely been a longer and harder road because of that. This is about a woman of color saving men — so it turns the typical Hollywood narrative on its head. We actually had a lot of opportunities to get fully funded if we could \"find a character that the audience can relate to.\" And that's code for white, straight men. There are a lot of Western groups that have been doing amazing work on this issue, but they are not doing the kind of work that Patima and Tun Lin are doing — which is incredibly cinematic, front line, incredibly human, daring work. We heard things like, \"OK, we'll give you the funding as soon as you find the Western hero that speaks English.\" And the message is, these issues are only solved by Western heroes, which is rarely the case. But we stood our ground. I'm very proud of the film for that and proud of our team, but it's definitely been much harder.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='pop_10684' label='More Documentaries to Watch']\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>So what has been the reception for the film?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's been extremely strong at film festivals, playing to mostly sold-out rooms. People are very moved. There are a lot of tears. It's a very emotional film and people are really receiving it with a lot of openness. We're getting the same reception from the seafood industry. We didn't do a name-and-shame film where we point out one company, because it's a systemic issue; if that particular company were to shift, people would think the problem was solved when it's not. So it's really opened doors in seafood circles in a reflective way, rather than in a bad-PR way. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>And what's the status of slavery in the seafood industry? You show Patima's dramatic work freeing these workers, but is slavery still the status quo?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is, more or less. It's extremely difficult to get solid numbers on it, because it's a black market. The Thai government says this is all in the past, but that is belied by the fact that there are rescues going on all the time. The government is taking admirable steps in the right direction in terms of putting more boots on boats, but they lag way behind in prosecuting captains or owners. And while Thailand is not alone — there are certainly incidents on boats ranging from South Korea to Scotland — Thailand still leads the pack in terms of the scale of this problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Samuel Fromartz is the editor-in-chief of the Food & Environment Reporting Network and author of \u003c/em>Organic Inc.\u003cem>, and \u003c/em>In Search of the Perfect Loaf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/07/15/741138111/this-fearless-woman-is-fighting-to-keep-slavery-out-of-your-seafood\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vulca\">G\u003cem>host Fleet\u003c/em>\u003c/a> is a gripping new documentary about modern-day slaves in the Thai fishing industry. The film delves into the sordid labor practices of an industry that supplies the United States, Europe and Asia with seafood, but it does so by focusing on the compelling work of Bangkok-based Patima Tungpuchayakul, an abolitionist who has devoted her life to helping \"lost\" men return home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She works with a former slave, Tun Lin, who was kidnapped when he was 14 and forced to fish without pay for 11 years. Together, they visit remote islands in Southeast Asia, where captive men have lived for years — never seeing their families until Tungpuchayakul and her team show up and free them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The documentary grew out of a piece co-director Shannon Service and a colleague \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2012/06/19/155045295/confined-to-a-thai-fishing-boat-for-three-years\">did for NPR\u003c/a> in 2012 — a story then followed up by \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>, AP, the\u003cem> Guardian\u003c/em>, and others. But the film has an emotional power that's missing from the news reports, captured in the lines etched on the men's faces, in their tears, in the remote tropical locations where the film takes place, and in the strength of the protagonist, Tungpuchayakul.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shannon took time out of her busy screening schedule for the film (\u003ca href=\"https://www.vulcanproductions.com/ghostfleet/thefilm\">which is currently playing in selected theatres in the U.S.\u003c/a>) to talk about the project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/uws9Pk33gqs'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/uws9Pk33gqs'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did the film come about?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been on this story for seven years. I started with another reporter, Becky Palstrom, and together we spent six months looking into slavery in the Thai fishing industry. We were investigating how it was that tens or hundreds of thousands of men have crossed borders, gone into policed ports, gone out to sea, and disappeared, and nobody was really talking about it. The story took us across Southeast Asia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While we were doing this reporting, it also became obvious that the underbelly of the fishing industry was a crazy, fascinating world. Each one of the men we interviewed could have had a Hollywood film scripted about him. These men left home with the best of intentions to support their family; they were convinced to go into Thailand, or they just walked into a bar and were drugged and woke up on board. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They're living in the space of an 18-wheeler, saving each others' lives, keeping each other sane and enduring incredible hardship. Some of them had never seen the ocean before, or swam, and suddenly they're on a boat for many years. If they do see land, they'll grab something that floats, jump into the water to escape, land on an island, and then sleep in trees to avoid snakes. Or they'll marry into an indigenous community, but their actual family thinks they're dead. And they have no hope of getting home. Doing the radio doc, it became clear to me it needed to be a film. And luckily Jeffrey Waldron (co-director) and Greg Kwedar (co-producer) heard the radio piece and contacted me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134150\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1259px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"View of an Asian fishing vessel, with men asleep on deck.\" width=\"1259\" height=\"709\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134150\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85.jpg 1259w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-800x451.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-1200x676.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1259px) 100vw, 1259px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">View of an Asian fishing vessel, with men asleep on deck. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Ghost Fleet)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What was the process of making this film over so many years?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You go shoot a little bit, raise money, shoot more, raise more money. Luckily, there were ocean-focused groups who really saw what we saw: That slavery is the Achilles' heel of overfishing — these boats went further and further from shore and they needed a labor force. So human traffickers stepped into the gap and started selling people. If you have to adhere to good labor standards, decent pay, and get men home to their families, you can't send these boats around the world skirting international and national laws to catch fish. We got a number of oceans organizations and people on board, including the director of \"\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4KRD8e20fBo\">The Cove\u003c/a>,\" co-producer and \u003ca href=\"https://www.vulcanproductions.com/\">Vulcan Productions\u003c/a>, and they've been absolutely critical. They understood that the film was about the intersection of food, human rights and environmental advocacy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Was there pushback because your characters do not speak English — they aren't the white environmentalist saving the world? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You're right, and it's definitely been a longer and harder road because of that. This is about a woman of color saving men — so it turns the typical Hollywood narrative on its head. We actually had a lot of opportunities to get fully funded if we could \"find a character that the audience can relate to.\" And that's code for white, straight men. There are a lot of Western groups that have been doing amazing work on this issue, but they are not doing the kind of work that Patima and Tun Lin are doing — which is incredibly cinematic, front line, incredibly human, daring work. We heard things like, \"OK, we'll give you the funding as soon as you find the Western hero that speaks English.\" And the message is, these issues are only solved by Western heroes, which is rarely the case. But we stood our ground. I'm very proud of the film for that and proud of our team, but it's definitely been much harder.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>So what has been the reception for the film?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's been extremely strong at film festivals, playing to mostly sold-out rooms. People are very moved. There are a lot of tears. It's a very emotional film and people are really receiving it with a lot of openness. We're getting the same reception from the seafood industry. We didn't do a name-and-shame film where we point out one company, because it's a systemic issue; if that particular company were to shift, people would think the problem was solved when it's not. So it's really opened doors in seafood circles in a reflective way, rather than in a bad-PR way. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>And what's the status of slavery in the seafood industry? You show Patima's dramatic work freeing these workers, but is slavery still the status quo?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is, more or less. It's extremely difficult to get solid numbers on it, because it's a black market. The Thai government says this is all in the past, but that is belied by the fact that there are rescues going on all the time. The government is taking admirable steps in the right direction in terms of putting more boots on boats, but they lag way behind in prosecuting captains or owners. And while Thailand is not alone — there are certainly incidents on boats ranging from South Korea to Scotland — Thailand still leads the pack in terms of the scale of this problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Samuel Fromartz is the editor-in-chief of the Food & Environment Reporting Network and author of \u003c/em>Organic Inc.\u003cem>, and \u003c/em>In Search of the Perfect Loaf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/07/15/741138111/this-fearless-woman-is-fighting-to-keep-slavery-out-of-your-seafood\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Raise a Glass (and an Oyster) to Two Newly Renovated North Bay Waterfront Classics",
"title": "Raise a Glass (and an Oyster) to Two Newly Renovated North Bay Waterfront Classics",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ci>By Trevor Felch\u003c/i>\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_92680' label='More Oysters on BAB']\u003cbr>\nWith a combined 170 years of history, it’s remarkable that a certain pair of North Bay waterfront eating and drinking staples underwent major renovations for the past few months almost simultaneously and reopened within a month and a half of each other. So many diners, so many plates of oysters, so many cold beers, so many decades since both opened — and yet, \u003ca href=\"http://tonysseafoodrestaurant.com/\">Tony’s Seafood\u003c/a> in Marshall and \u003ca href=\"http://samscafe.com\">Sam’s Anchor Cafe\u003c/a> in Tiburon just happened to decide to renovate and rejuvenate themselves under new ownerships at virtually the exact same time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amidst the flurry of standbys closing and fast-casual mini-chains opening, there can be good restaurant news as well! Sam’s Anchor Cafe will celebrate its 100th birthday next year. Tony’s Seafood has anchored its home on pilings on Tomales Bay since a Croatian fisherman, Anton ‘Tony’ Konatich, founded it in 1948. Sure, with new ownership at both institutions, things have changed a bit since the first half of the 20th century. Change can be good, though, and both restaurants have simply been freshened up without losing their core personality and purpose. This is how restaurant evolution \u003ci>should\u003c/i> be and yet so rarely happens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133802\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133802\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-exterior-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"The reopened Tony's Seafood on Tomales Bay\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-exterior-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-exterior-trevor-felch-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-exterior-trevor-felch-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-exterior-trevor-felch-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-exterior-trevor-felch-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The reopened Tony's Seafood on Tomales Bay \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For Tony’s Seafood, the new owners are Hog Island Oyster Co., the Bay Area’s preeminent producer for sustainable shellfish since it was founded by John Finger and Terry Sawyer in 1983. Of course, Hog Island’s flagship oyster “farm” and al fresco restaurant (celebrating its 30th birthday this year) is essentially Tony’s next-door neighbor along Tomales Bay’s eastern shore. It’s such a natural growth for Tony’s baton to be handed to Hog Island that some diners almost seem puzzled that the two haven’t always been connected.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133804\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133804\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-hog-island-founder-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Hog Island Oyster Co. CEO and Co-Founder John Finger\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-hog-island-founder-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-hog-island-founder-trevor-felch-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-hog-island-founder-trevor-felch-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-hog-island-founder-trevor-felch-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-hog-island-founder-trevor-felch-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hog Island Oyster Co. CEO and Co-Founder John Finger \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Even with Tony’s Seafood now in the group’s portfolio, Hog Island’s farm on Tomales Bay remains one of the great pilgrimages of Bay Area food, perched at the highest level with elite legends like Zuni Cafe, The French Laundry, Swan Oyster Depot, Chez Panisse and La Taqueria. Sitting outside with chilled rosé, dozens of oysters fresh out of the bay in front of you, salt water-tinged wind blowing around, and bright sunshine is an essential “This is Northern California” experience. But, here’s the big difference between the farm, Hog Island’s two oyster bar/restaurants at Napa’s Oxbow Market and SF’s Ferry Building, and Tony’s — the latter is a bonafide brick-and-mortar restaurant. There is no sharing the space with coffee bars, grocery kiosks, and The Slanted Door or The Kitchen Door.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133801\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133801\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-bbq-oysters-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"BBQ Hog Island Co. oysters at Tony's Seafood\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-bbq-oysters-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-bbq-oysters-trevor-felch-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-bbq-oysters-trevor-felch-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-bbq-oysters-trevor-felch-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-bbq-oysters-trevor-felch-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">BBQ Hog Island Co. oysters at Tony's Seafood \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finger reached out to the Konatich family a few years ago and mentioned that he would be interested in Tony’s if they ever wanted to sell. “Tony’s has been special to us since we were starting our farm and families and working so hard that it was hard to take it all in,” Finger says, “We’d go down the road for a beer at Tony’s and all the special beauty of the area would hit us—it reminded us of how absolutely lucky we were.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133807\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133807\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-interior-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"The renovated Tony's Seafood in Marshall, CA\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-interior-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-interior-trevor-felch-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-interior-trevor-felch-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-interior-trevor-felch-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-interior-trevor-felch-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The renovated Tony's Seafood in Marshall, CA \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After closing in January of 2018, Tony’s reopened after just over a year of renovations, or “TLC” as Finger likes to say in terms of how the restaurant had slipped towards a slight decline in various areas. It’s as fresh feeling as ever now across its 96 seats in the two indoor dining areas (the southern room has a few side-by-side seats at a counter directly looking at the water for a stunning meal with a view) and outdoors on the patio (in good weather). The kitchen was substantially upgraded, the dining areas boast a cabin-like feel from wood planks for the ceiling and floor, and the sleek blue tiled oyster bar resides by the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133803\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133803\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Alaskan halibut with grapefruit and endive at Tony's Seafood\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Alaskan halibut with grapefruit and endive at Tony's Seafood \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That latter point was a particularly big decision by the Hog Island crew because the oyster bar is, naturally, at the center of attention for the three other locations. At Tony’s, they want diners to acknowledge oysters but also know that they aren’t totally the focus this time around.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133798\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133798\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-patio-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Soaking up the sun at Sam's Anchor Cafe\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-patio-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-patio-trevor-felch-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-patio-trevor-felch-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-patio-trevor-felch-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-patio-trevor-felch-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Soaking up the sun at Sam's Anchor Cafe \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sam’s Anchor Cafe was sold to Conor Flaherty and James Tate in 2017 and is operated by one of the powerhouse Northern California restaurant groups, Moana (Lark Creek, Joinery in Sausalito, Piatti among a dozen or so of their restaurants). Flaherty is a Tiburon native and, according to the staff, it seems like he is the Mayor of Tiburon when he strolls around the patio any given day since all the locals know him and he knows them. For the quaint village, Sam’s really is their centerpiece, and it’s great to have it still in local hands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133800\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133800\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-view-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"San Francisco's skyline in the distance from Tiburon\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-view-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-view-trevor-felch-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-view-trevor-felch-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-view-trevor-felch-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-view-trevor-felch-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">San Francisco's skyline in the distance from Tiburon \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Unlike Tony’s year-long renovation, the changes at Sam’s only took a matter of weeks. Sisters Hannah and Emily Collins of the in-demand design firm ROY (a Mano, Magnolia Dogpatch, the stunning new Velvet 48 in Burlingame) created a distinct maritime theme that reaches back in time with an early 20th century aesthetic to honor Sam’s early days under original owner Sam Vella (the Hawaiian shirts that servers wear are another nod to Sam since he apparently wore them frequently). The design is much more Queen Mary than lobster shack — no nets and buoys here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133795\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133795\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-interior-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Inside the revamped 99-year old Sam's Anchor Cafe\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-interior-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-interior-trevor-felch-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-interior-trevor-felch-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-interior-trevor-felch-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-interior-trevor-felch-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside the revamped 99-year old Sam's Anchor Cafe \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Instead, there are aged brass finishes, a distinct navy-blue and creamy white color scheme, an exposed old-growth redwood ceiling, and several art deco elements that immediately bring to mind glamorous cruise liners. One other exceedingly important addition for the patio where it isn’t always balmy: the wrap-around bench can now be heated like how car seats can be heated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133794\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133794\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-bar-trevorfelch-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"The bar at Sam's Anchor Cafe in Tiburon\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-bar-trevorfelch-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-bar-trevorfelch-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-bar-trevorfelch-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-bar-trevorfelch-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-bar-trevorfelch-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bar at Sam's Anchor Cafe in Tiburon \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Flaherty’s day job is as Head of Operations at Preserve Partners, a private real estate investment firm, and Tate is Head of Development there, as well. By virtue of that corporate background, plus being run by a large restaurant operations firm like \u003ca href=\"http://moanarestaurantgroup.com\">Moana\u003c/a>, plus being in a very tourist-friendly location, it’s understandable that diners might be skeptical of Sam’s and think of it as another high volume waterfront property that focuses on margins and glittery views over the cuisine. Sure, the views of Angel Island and the San Francisco skyline in the horizon will always be the focus for Sam’s. Luckily, like at Tony’s, the food is a worthy supporting cast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not surprisingly, fish and seafood are the heart and soul of both menus. Sure, both restaurants have a burger (and Sam’s has a fried chicken sandwich and New York steak), but let’s not get carried away about what these restaurants are really all about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133799\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133799\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-poke-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Tuna poke at Sam's Anchor Cafe\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-poke-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-poke-trevor-felch-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-poke-trevor-felch-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-poke-trevor-felch-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-poke-trevor-felch-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tuna poke at Sam's Anchor Cafe \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Within that fish and seafood theme, there are a few differences between the two. Both serve a seafood stew ($26 at Tony’s; $34 at Sam’s), but only Sam’s explicitly considers theirs’ a “cioppino”. Sam’s has a tuna poke and fish ceviche (both $16) from the raw bar, while Tony’s has a marinated seafood plate ($14) and peel & eat Gulf shrimp ($18).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133796\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133796\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-louie-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Dungeness crab Louie at Sam's Anchor Cafe\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-louie-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-louie-trevor-felch-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-louie-trevor-felch-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-louie-trevor-felch-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-louie-trevor-felch-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dungeness crab Louie at Sam's Anchor Cafe \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sam’s certainly has a few playful items that reflect the laid-back, weekend-every day vibe of the outdoor deck. The $55 “Sunny and 70” is a drink bowl and a pile of Old Bay dusted fries that maybe can be considered a light meal. A $25 “hamburger and Champagne” combination isn’t necessarily a natural pairing but seems exactly like what the captains of the small yachts that tie up at Sam’s dock will want after a voyage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Tony’s has a few more ambitious plates that show the talent of chef Matt Shapiro. Prior to joining Hog Island in 2014, the Queens, New York native cooked at some of the Mission’s most acclaimed restaurants (Wise Sons, Walzwerk, the now-closed Schmidt’s) and it’s easy for diners to see how his careful touch subtly enhances classic waterfront preparations, like a puffy tempura-like batter for the cod and chips ($21) or a touch of anchovy to liven up linguine and clams ($22).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133808\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133808\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-pasta-trevor-felch-1-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Linguine and clams 'bagna cauda' at Tony's Seafood\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-pasta-trevor-felch-1-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-pasta-trevor-felch-1-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-pasta-trevor-felch-1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-pasta-trevor-felch-1-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-pasta-trevor-felch-1-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Linguine and clams 'bagna cauda' at Tony's Seafood \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sam’s traffics more in the sandwich realm (rock fish sandwich for $19; chilled Maine lobster roll for $27), while Tony’s boasts a fried oyster po’boy ($17). Meanwhile, Tony’s also has Hog Island’s beloved grilled oysters coated in BBQ sauce or a jalapeño butter (four for $16).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The biggest similarity food-wise between the two is that both sure love offering crab in various forms. At Sam’s, there’s a crab toast with smashed avocado ($21); a Sam’s Louie’s Louie salad ($30); and a crab cake starter ($19). Tony’s has an irresistible crab and Mornay gratinée ($19) and a Dungeness crab sandwich with housemade mayonnaise ($21).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133809\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133809\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-stew-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Seafood stew with shellfish-saffron broth at Tony's Seafood\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-stew-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-stew-trevor-felch-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-stew-trevor-felch-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-stew-trevor-felch-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-stew-trevor-felch-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Seafood stew with shellfish-saffron broth at Tony's Seafood \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133803\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133803\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Alaskan halibut with grapefruit and endive at Tony's Seafood\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Alaskan halibut with grapefruit and endive at Tony's Seafood \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Both restaurants also offer noteworthy fresh fish preparations, like sand dabs with mussels and sherry cream at Sam’s ($28) or halibut surrounded by grapefruit and endive spears or black cod with Pinot Noir-braised chicories at Tony’s (these daily specials change often but usually are $28.).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dessert, Sam’s leans towards Americana classics like butterscotch pudding, fried banana splits and brownie sundaes (all $8). Dessert at Tony’s is all about swirls of Straus Family Creamery soft serve ($5) with various toppings like extra virgin olive oil and sea salt ($2), or aged balsamico ($3). Not only is the soft serve always a big hit, but the creamery’s founder/CEO, Albert Straus, always dines at Tony’s on Friday nights, so they better include the beloved product from one of their most influential regulars!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133805\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133805\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-icecream-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Straus Family Creamery soft serve with olive oil and pistachios\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-icecream-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-icecream-trevor-felch-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-icecream-trevor-felch-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-icecream-trevor-felch-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-icecream-trevor-felch-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Straus Family Creamery soft serve with olive oil and pistachios \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Amidst the sweeping Bay Area changes, it’s as refreshing as a San Francisco Bay breeze to see that this pair of local waterfront legends are in good hands with new, caring owners. Amidst all of the rent increases and grueling traffic jams, a road trip to Tomales Bay or a ferry ride to Tiburon are reminders of what a special place the Bay Area still is. Raise a glass — and an oyster — to another 170 years for Sam’s Anchor Cafe and Tony’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tony's Seafood Restaurant\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Tony's+Seafood+Restaurant/@38.1474594,-122.8831022,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0xb863628df7a94189?sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiWl7T5r8LiAhWvJzQIHbDmA2kQ_BIwCnoECBAQCA\">18863 Shoreline Hwy, Marshall\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: 5-8pm Thurs, 11:30am-8pm Fri-Sun\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Sam's Anchor Cafe\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Sam's+Anchor+Cafe/@37.8731361,-122.4565925,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xf7a21a31036599c0!8m2!3d37.8731361!4d-122.4565925\">27 Main St, Tiburon\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: 11:30am-10pm Mon-Wed, 11:30am-12am Thurs-Fri, 10am-12am Sat, 10am-10pm Sun\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "With Hog Island Oyster Co.'s taking over Tony's and a renovation of 99-year old Sam's Anchor Cafe, it's time for a North Bay waterfront dining trip.",
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"description": "With Hog Island Oyster Co.'s taking over Tony's and a renovation of 99-year old Sam's Anchor Cafe, it's time for a North Bay waterfront dining trip.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ci>By Trevor Felch\u003c/i>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nWith a combined 170 years of history, it’s remarkable that a certain pair of North Bay waterfront eating and drinking staples underwent major renovations for the past few months almost simultaneously and reopened within a month and a half of each other. So many diners, so many plates of oysters, so many cold beers, so many decades since both opened — and yet, \u003ca href=\"http://tonysseafoodrestaurant.com/\">Tony’s Seafood\u003c/a> in Marshall and \u003ca href=\"http://samscafe.com\">Sam’s Anchor Cafe\u003c/a> in Tiburon just happened to decide to renovate and rejuvenate themselves under new ownerships at virtually the exact same time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amidst the flurry of standbys closing and fast-casual mini-chains opening, there can be good restaurant news as well! Sam’s Anchor Cafe will celebrate its 100th birthday next year. Tony’s Seafood has anchored its home on pilings on Tomales Bay since a Croatian fisherman, Anton ‘Tony’ Konatich, founded it in 1948. Sure, with new ownership at both institutions, things have changed a bit since the first half of the 20th century. Change can be good, though, and both restaurants have simply been freshened up without losing their core personality and purpose. This is how restaurant evolution \u003ci>should\u003c/i> be and yet so rarely happens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133802\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133802\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-exterior-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"The reopened Tony's Seafood on Tomales Bay\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-exterior-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-exterior-trevor-felch-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-exterior-trevor-felch-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-exterior-trevor-felch-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-exterior-trevor-felch-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The reopened Tony's Seafood on Tomales Bay \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For Tony’s Seafood, the new owners are Hog Island Oyster Co., the Bay Area’s preeminent producer for sustainable shellfish since it was founded by John Finger and Terry Sawyer in 1983. Of course, Hog Island’s flagship oyster “farm” and al fresco restaurant (celebrating its 30th birthday this year) is essentially Tony’s next-door neighbor along Tomales Bay’s eastern shore. It’s such a natural growth for Tony’s baton to be handed to Hog Island that some diners almost seem puzzled that the two haven’t always been connected.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133804\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133804\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-hog-island-founder-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Hog Island Oyster Co. CEO and Co-Founder John Finger\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-hog-island-founder-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-hog-island-founder-trevor-felch-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-hog-island-founder-trevor-felch-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-hog-island-founder-trevor-felch-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-hog-island-founder-trevor-felch-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hog Island Oyster Co. CEO and Co-Founder John Finger \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Even with Tony’s Seafood now in the group’s portfolio, Hog Island’s farm on Tomales Bay remains one of the great pilgrimages of Bay Area food, perched at the highest level with elite legends like Zuni Cafe, The French Laundry, Swan Oyster Depot, Chez Panisse and La Taqueria. Sitting outside with chilled rosé, dozens of oysters fresh out of the bay in front of you, salt water-tinged wind blowing around, and bright sunshine is an essential “This is Northern California” experience. But, here’s the big difference between the farm, Hog Island’s two oyster bar/restaurants at Napa’s Oxbow Market and SF’s Ferry Building, and Tony’s — the latter is a bonafide brick-and-mortar restaurant. There is no sharing the space with coffee bars, grocery kiosks, and The Slanted Door or The Kitchen Door.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133801\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133801\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-bbq-oysters-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"BBQ Hog Island Co. oysters at Tony's Seafood\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-bbq-oysters-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-bbq-oysters-trevor-felch-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-bbq-oysters-trevor-felch-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-bbq-oysters-trevor-felch-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-bbq-oysters-trevor-felch-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">BBQ Hog Island Co. oysters at Tony's Seafood \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finger reached out to the Konatich family a few years ago and mentioned that he would be interested in Tony’s if they ever wanted to sell. “Tony’s has been special to us since we were starting our farm and families and working so hard that it was hard to take it all in,” Finger says, “We’d go down the road for a beer at Tony’s and all the special beauty of the area would hit us—it reminded us of how absolutely lucky we were.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133807\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133807\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-interior-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"The renovated Tony's Seafood in Marshall, CA\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-interior-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-interior-trevor-felch-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-interior-trevor-felch-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-interior-trevor-felch-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-interior-trevor-felch-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The renovated Tony's Seafood in Marshall, CA \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After closing in January of 2018, Tony’s reopened after just over a year of renovations, or “TLC” as Finger likes to say in terms of how the restaurant had slipped towards a slight decline in various areas. It’s as fresh feeling as ever now across its 96 seats in the two indoor dining areas (the southern room has a few side-by-side seats at a counter directly looking at the water for a stunning meal with a view) and outdoors on the patio (in good weather). The kitchen was substantially upgraded, the dining areas boast a cabin-like feel from wood planks for the ceiling and floor, and the sleek blue tiled oyster bar resides by the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133803\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133803\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Alaskan halibut with grapefruit and endive at Tony's Seafood\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Alaskan halibut with grapefruit and endive at Tony's Seafood \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That latter point was a particularly big decision by the Hog Island crew because the oyster bar is, naturally, at the center of attention for the three other locations. At Tony’s, they want diners to acknowledge oysters but also know that they aren’t totally the focus this time around.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133798\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133798\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-patio-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Soaking up the sun at Sam's Anchor Cafe\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-patio-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-patio-trevor-felch-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-patio-trevor-felch-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-patio-trevor-felch-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-patio-trevor-felch-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Soaking up the sun at Sam's Anchor Cafe \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sam’s Anchor Cafe was sold to Conor Flaherty and James Tate in 2017 and is operated by one of the powerhouse Northern California restaurant groups, Moana (Lark Creek, Joinery in Sausalito, Piatti among a dozen or so of their restaurants). Flaherty is a Tiburon native and, according to the staff, it seems like he is the Mayor of Tiburon when he strolls around the patio any given day since all the locals know him and he knows them. For the quaint village, Sam’s really is their centerpiece, and it’s great to have it still in local hands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133800\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133800\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-view-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"San Francisco's skyline in the distance from Tiburon\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-view-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-view-trevor-felch-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-view-trevor-felch-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-view-trevor-felch-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-view-trevor-felch-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">San Francisco's skyline in the distance from Tiburon \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Unlike Tony’s year-long renovation, the changes at Sam’s only took a matter of weeks. Sisters Hannah and Emily Collins of the in-demand design firm ROY (a Mano, Magnolia Dogpatch, the stunning new Velvet 48 in Burlingame) created a distinct maritime theme that reaches back in time with an early 20th century aesthetic to honor Sam’s early days under original owner Sam Vella (the Hawaiian shirts that servers wear are another nod to Sam since he apparently wore them frequently). The design is much more Queen Mary than lobster shack — no nets and buoys here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133795\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133795\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-interior-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Inside the revamped 99-year old Sam's Anchor Cafe\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-interior-trevor-felch-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-interior-trevor-felch-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-interior-trevor-felch-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-interior-trevor-felch-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-interior-trevor-felch-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside the revamped 99-year old Sam's Anchor Cafe \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Instead, there are aged brass finishes, a distinct navy-blue and creamy white color scheme, an exposed old-growth redwood ceiling, and several art deco elements that immediately bring to mind glamorous cruise liners. One other exceedingly important addition for the patio where it isn’t always balmy: the wrap-around bench can now be heated like how car seats can be heated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133794\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133794\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-bar-trevorfelch-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"The bar at Sam's Anchor Cafe in Tiburon\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-bar-trevorfelch-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-bar-trevorfelch-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-bar-trevorfelch-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-bar-trevorfelch-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-bar-trevorfelch-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bar at Sam's Anchor Cafe in Tiburon \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Flaherty’s day job is as Head of Operations at Preserve Partners, a private real estate investment firm, and Tate is Head of Development there, as well. By virtue of that corporate background, plus being run by a large restaurant operations firm like \u003ca href=\"http://moanarestaurantgroup.com\">Moana\u003c/a>, plus being in a very tourist-friendly location, it’s understandable that diners might be skeptical of Sam’s and think of it as another high volume waterfront property that focuses on margins and glittery views over the cuisine. Sure, the views of Angel Island and the San Francisco skyline in the horizon will always be the focus for Sam’s. Luckily, like at Tony’s, the food is a worthy supporting cast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not surprisingly, fish and seafood are the heart and soul of both menus. Sure, both restaurants have a burger (and Sam’s has a fried chicken sandwich and New York steak), but let’s not get carried away about what these restaurants are really all about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133799\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133799\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-poke-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Tuna poke at Sam's Anchor Cafe\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-poke-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-poke-trevor-felch-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-poke-trevor-felch-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-poke-trevor-felch-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-poke-trevor-felch-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tuna poke at Sam's Anchor Cafe \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Within that fish and seafood theme, there are a few differences between the two. Both serve a seafood stew ($26 at Tony’s; $34 at Sam’s), but only Sam’s explicitly considers theirs’ a “cioppino”. Sam’s has a tuna poke and fish ceviche (both $16) from the raw bar, while Tony’s has a marinated seafood plate ($14) and peel & eat Gulf shrimp ($18).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133796\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133796\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-louie-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Dungeness crab Louie at Sam's Anchor Cafe\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-louie-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-louie-trevor-felch-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-louie-trevor-felch-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-louie-trevor-felch-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/sams-anchor-louie-trevor-felch-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dungeness crab Louie at Sam's Anchor Cafe \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sam’s certainly has a few playful items that reflect the laid-back, weekend-every day vibe of the outdoor deck. The $55 “Sunny and 70” is a drink bowl and a pile of Old Bay dusted fries that maybe can be considered a light meal. A $25 “hamburger and Champagne” combination isn’t necessarily a natural pairing but seems exactly like what the captains of the small yachts that tie up at Sam’s dock will want after a voyage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Tony’s has a few more ambitious plates that show the talent of chef Matt Shapiro. Prior to joining Hog Island in 2014, the Queens, New York native cooked at some of the Mission’s most acclaimed restaurants (Wise Sons, Walzwerk, the now-closed Schmidt’s) and it’s easy for diners to see how his careful touch subtly enhances classic waterfront preparations, like a puffy tempura-like batter for the cod and chips ($21) or a touch of anchovy to liven up linguine and clams ($22).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133808\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133808\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-pasta-trevor-felch-1-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Linguine and clams 'bagna cauda' at Tony's Seafood\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-pasta-trevor-felch-1-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-pasta-trevor-felch-1-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-pasta-trevor-felch-1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-pasta-trevor-felch-1-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-pasta-trevor-felch-1-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Linguine and clams 'bagna cauda' at Tony's Seafood \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sam’s traffics more in the sandwich realm (rock fish sandwich for $19; chilled Maine lobster roll for $27), while Tony’s boasts a fried oyster po’boy ($17). Meanwhile, Tony’s also has Hog Island’s beloved grilled oysters coated in BBQ sauce or a jalapeño butter (four for $16).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The biggest similarity food-wise between the two is that both sure love offering crab in various forms. At Sam’s, there’s a crab toast with smashed avocado ($21); a Sam’s Louie’s Louie salad ($30); and a crab cake starter ($19). Tony’s has an irresistible crab and Mornay gratinée ($19) and a Dungeness crab sandwich with housemade mayonnaise ($21).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133809\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133809\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-stew-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Seafood stew with shellfish-saffron broth at Tony's Seafood\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-stew-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-stew-trevor-felch-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-stew-trevor-felch-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-stew-trevor-felch-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-stew-trevor-felch-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Seafood stew with shellfish-saffron broth at Tony's Seafood \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133803\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133803\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Alaskan halibut with grapefruit and endive at Tony's Seafood\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-fish-trevor-felch-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Alaskan halibut with grapefruit and endive at Tony's Seafood \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Both restaurants also offer noteworthy fresh fish preparations, like sand dabs with mussels and sherry cream at Sam’s ($28) or halibut surrounded by grapefruit and endive spears or black cod with Pinot Noir-braised chicories at Tony’s (these daily specials change often but usually are $28.).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dessert, Sam’s leans towards Americana classics like butterscotch pudding, fried banana splits and brownie sundaes (all $8). Dessert at Tony’s is all about swirls of Straus Family Creamery soft serve ($5) with various toppings like extra virgin olive oil and sea salt ($2), or aged balsamico ($3). Not only is the soft serve always a big hit, but the creamery’s founder/CEO, Albert Straus, always dines at Tony’s on Friday nights, so they better include the beloved product from one of their most influential regulars!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133805\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-133805\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-icecream-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Straus Family Creamery soft serve with olive oil and pistachios\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-icecream-trevor-felch-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-icecream-trevor-felch-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-icecream-trevor-felch-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-icecream-trevor-felch-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/tonys-seafood-icecream-trevor-felch-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Straus Family Creamery soft serve with olive oil and pistachios \u003ccite>(Trevor Felch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Amidst the sweeping Bay Area changes, it’s as refreshing as a San Francisco Bay breeze to see that this pair of local waterfront legends are in good hands with new, caring owners. Amidst all of the rent increases and grueling traffic jams, a road trip to Tomales Bay or a ferry ride to Tiburon are reminders of what a special place the Bay Area still is. Raise a glass — and an oyster — to another 170 years for Sam’s Anchor Cafe and Tony’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tony's Seafood Restaurant\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Tony's+Seafood+Restaurant/@38.1474594,-122.8831022,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0xb863628df7a94189?sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiWl7T5r8LiAhWvJzQIHbDmA2kQ_BIwCnoECBAQCA\">18863 Shoreline Hwy, Marshall\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: 5-8pm Thurs, 11:30am-8pm Fri-Sun\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Sam's Anchor Cafe\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Sam's+Anchor+Cafe/@37.8731361,-122.4565925,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xf7a21a31036599c0!8m2!3d37.8731361!4d-122.4565925\">27 Main St, Tiburon\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: 11:30am-10pm Mon-Wed, 11:30am-12am Thurs-Fri, 10am-12am Sat, 10am-10pm Sun\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Fish 2.0 Offers Cash, Advice to an Ocean of Seafood Start-Ups",
"title": "Fish 2.0 Offers Cash, Advice to an Ocean of Seafood Start-Ups",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>With the seafood industry in transition, these entrepreneurs are pitching ways to make it more sustainable.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large ballroom at Stanford University’s Arrillaga Alumni Center, jittery entrepreneurs make their way onto a small stage to pitch their sustainable seafood ventures. Out of 184 applications, only 40 have made the cut. Among the finalists are a mail-order oyster startup that will ship the food overnight to your door, a manufacturer of devices that track lost fishing gear, an Alaskan processing facility looking to expand, and training programs that teach Peruvian fishermen how to operate more sustainably.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re taking part in the third bi-annual \u003ca href=\"https://www.fish20.org/\">Fish 2.0 competition\u003c/a>, and the stakes are high. Many of these entrepreneurs have never made a pitch in front of an audience before. And with some of the largest and most respected investors in the sector, including \u003ca href=\"https://www.rabobank.com/en/about-rabobank/food-agribusiness/sectors/from-animals/sustainable-seafood/index.html\">Rabobank\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.aqua-spark.nl/\">Aqua-Spark\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"https://obvious.com/portfolio\">Obvious Ventures\u003c/a>, eagerly looking on, competitors are anxious to make a good impression. Flanked by projectors and armed only with a microphone and a remote to advance their slides, entrepreneurs from as far away as Italy, Peru, and the Solomon Islands have only a few minutes to make their pitch in front of a four-judge panel and a room full of potentially lucrative connections.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With global demand for sustainable seafood growing rapidly, the industry hasn’t been able to keep pace. Programs like Fish 2.0 hope to meet that demand and support the sector’s growth by connecting investors to emerging businesses. Similar to accelerators like \u003ca href=\"http://mixingbowlhub.com/about-us/\">Mixing Bowl\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.imagineh2o.org/mission\">Imagine H2O\u003c/a>, and the \u003ca href=\"https://chobaniincubator.com/about/\">Chobani Incubator\u003c/a>, Fish 2.0 aims to strengthen the sustainable seafood movement by helping ventures become financially sustainable, scalable, and profitable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although Fish 2.0 is framed as a competition, networking is what really matters for most participants. The eight competition winners each receive $5,000 in prize money, but for past winner Norah Eddy, whose company \u003ca href=\"https://www.saltygirlseafood.com/\">Salty Girl Seafood\u003c/a> sells sustainable fish in ready-to-cook, pre-marinated packages, the experience and exposure were more important than the actual cash. Eddy says the connections she fostered at Fish 2.0 two years ago have remained fruitful for Salty Girl, which has expanded its line of products since they \u003ca href=\"https://www.fish20.org/competitions/past\">won a prize\u003c/a> at the competition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125002\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 847px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-salty-girl-founders.jpg\" alt=\"Salty Girl Seafood founders Norah Eddy (left) and Laura Johnson.\" width=\"847\" height=\"609\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125002\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-salty-girl-founders.jpg 847w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-salty-girl-founders-160x115.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-salty-girl-founders-800x575.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-salty-girl-founders-768x552.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-salty-girl-founders-240x173.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-salty-girl-founders-375x270.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-salty-girl-founders-520x374.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 847px) 100vw, 847px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salty Girl Seafood founders Norah Eddy (left) and Laura Johnson. \u003ccite>(Photo courtesy of \u003ca href=\"https://www.saltygirlseafood.com/\">Salty Girl Seafood\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We’ve subsequently raised money and our connection to Fish 2.0 has only served us well in business following the competition,” Eddy adds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Forum for Changemakers\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fish 2.0 is the brainchild of Monica Jain, a Wharton MBA graduate and former marine biologist, and it brings her two passions together. “There are a lot of great companies starting up and they need capital to grow effectively,” she says. “It’s the same in every field. We can’t expect innovative business to grow without capital.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124999\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-monica-jain-1-700x1049.jpg\" alt=\"Monica Jain.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-124999\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-monica-jain-1-700x1049.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-monica-jain-1-700x1049-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-monica-jain-1-700x1049-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-monica-jain-1-700x1049-375x562.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-monica-jain-1-700x1049-520x779.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monica Jain. \u003ccite>(Photo courtesy of Fish 2.0)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Funded by academic institutions, the David and Lucile Packard Foundation, USAID, the U.S. State Department, investment funds, and others, the Fish 2.0 process starts a year before the actual event, with businesses applying to the competition online. Each applicant is put through a series of assessments that examine their business plans, potential for impact, risks, and opportunities for investment. While some businesses are well-established and looking to expand, others are looking for their initial seed money.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No matter the size of their business, each of the top 40 entrepreneurs is paired with an impact advisor and an investment advisor who offer feedback on both the science and the business sense of their model. The contestants span the broad and diverse seafood supply chain, with offerings ranging from an oyster co-op in Florida looking for investors to help fund construction of a hatchery, to \u003ca href=\"http://seafoodiq.com/\">Seafood IQ\u003c/a>, an Icelandic company that uses radio frequency identification (RFID) labels so consumers can be sure they know where their fish is coming from.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seafood provides a unique challenge because the industry is global, fractured, and full of middlemen. Salmon, for example, may be caught in Alaska, processed in China, and then shipped back to the U.S. for sale. As with \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2017/04/06/will-trump-revive-cool-and-make-american-meat-great-again/\">other meats\u003c/a>, it’s often difficult to tell where seafood is coming from or \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2017/10/11/can-we-trust-the-sustainable-meat-we-order-online/\">whether it’s sustainable\u003c/a>. And the problem is getting more pronounced as global demand increases. In 2016, the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) \u003ca href=\"http://www.fao.org/3/a-i5555e.pdf\">found\u003c/a> that global per capita fish consumption had hit more than 44 pounds a year, an all-time high.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Earlier this year the World Bank \u003ca href=\"http://www.worldbank.org/en/news/press-release/2017/02/14/giving-oceans-a-break-could-generate-83-billion-in-additional-benefits-for-fisheries\">reported\u003c/a> that, “about 90 percent of marine fisheries monitored by the FAO are fully fished or overfished, up from about 75 percent in 2005.” In addition to increased consumption, the report also points to the fact that “fish stocks are also under pressure from pollution, coastal development, and the impacts of climate change.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rather than focusing on improving consumer education or tightening governmental regulations, Fish 2.0 hopes to protect the oceans by showing sustainability makes good business sense. Because the seafood industry relies on natural resources, Jain believes that sustainable ventures, which are able to preserve those resources for years to come, are more “likely to do better in the long run.” Sustainable, she says, is simply “better business.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tim Fitzgerald of the \u003ca href=\"https://edf.org/\">Environmental Defense Fund\u003c/a> (EDF)—and a judge at this year’s Fish 2.0 contest—agrees that this investment is vital to the long-term health of the oceans. “To have large-scale change, you have to engage business,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Increasingly, investors and entrepreneurs are recognizing the potential in the sustainable seafood market. The World Bank \u003ca href=\"http://www.worldbank.org/en/news/press-release/2017/02/14/giving-oceans-a-break-could-generate-83-billion-in-additional-benefits-for-fisheries\">estimates\u003c/a> that better, more sustainable fishing practices could have an incredible impact, “boosting the profitability of the fisheries sector from an estimated $3 billion a year to $86 billion.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Changing Industry\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the fastest-growing parts of the sustainable seafood sector is aquaculture, a fact that is evident at Fish 2.0. Even with better fisheries management, experts say it’s unlikely we’ll be able to get much more wild-caught fish out of the oceans. Proponents say aquaculture offers a sustainable alternative for increasing the amount of fish on the market, a prospect that intrigues investors and environmentalists alike. Like industrial farming models, however, aquaculture projects have the potential to create both large amounts of food, and \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2016/01/07/can-land-based-fish-farms-solve-farmed-seafood-woes-aquaculture/\">large impacts on the environment\u003c/a>. Fish farms often have a negative reputation for producing excess waste and sub-par food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, says Barton Seaver, Director of \u003ca href=\"https://chge.hsph.harvard.edu/sustainable-seafood-and-health-initiative\">Harvard’s Sustainable Seafood and Health Initiative\u003c/a>, aquaculture has huge potential and has made great strides in recent years. “As an industry, it is so young. It deserves some leeway,” he explains. He sees Fish 2.0 as a way to “begin to tell the narrative of aquaculture as an industry with incredible potential.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, the contestants presented investors with a wide variety of different problems and solutions. \u003ca href=\"http://www.gaskiyadiagnostics.com/\">Gaskiya Diagnostics\u003c/a> developed a rapid, paper-based diagnostic test for common fish diseases, allowing farmers to use fewer antibiotics and reduce waste. \u003ca href=\"https://www.novonutrients.com/\">NovoNutrients\u003c/a> plans to use microbes to convert industrial carbon dioxide emissions into fish and animal feed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>New ventures like these—and venture capital firms ready to fund them—have sprung up in recent years. According to \u003ca href=\"https://www.iisd.org/ssi/\">the State of Sustainability Initiatives\u003c/a>, (SSI), an alliance of organizations focused on informing commodity stakeholders around the world, the market for sustainable seafood grew 35 percent from 2003 to 2005, which amounts to 10 times the growth of the conventional seafood market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That trend has only continued. In 2016, SSI \u003ca href=\"http://www.iisd.org/ssi/standards-and-the-blue-economy/\">reported\u003c/a> that investment in the global seafood market hit $11.5 billion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125001\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-panacea-oyster-co.jpg\" alt=\"An oyster harvest with Panacea Oyster Co-op, a 2017 Fish 2.0 winner.\" width=\"980\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125001\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-panacea-oyster-co.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-panacea-oyster-co-160x98.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-panacea-oyster-co-800x490.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-panacea-oyster-co-768x470.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-panacea-oyster-co-960x588.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-panacea-oyster-co-240x147.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-panacea-oyster-co-375x230.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-panacea-oyster-co-520x318.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An oyster harvest with Panacea Oyster Co-op, a 2017 Fish 2.0 winner. \u003ccite>(Photo courtesy of \u003ca href=\"https://www.panaceaoysters.com/\">Panacea Oyster\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jain and Fish 2.0 have witnessed this explosive growth first hand. Jain says that five years ago, hosting a bi-annual event made sense, with new companies appearing at a relatively modest rate. “But the rate of innovation I’ve seen this year is much faster,” she says, adding that she receives requests year-round for guidance from investors looking to join the market. The event and resulting networking can be transformative.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take, for example, \u003ca href=\"https://lovethewild.com/\">Love the Wild\u003c/a>, a Boulder-based company that creates easy-to-cook meal kits featuring sustainably farmed fish. When the company competed at Fish 2.0 in 2015, CEO Jacqueline Claudia described it as “all vision.” They had sold less than $1,000 in merchandise in their hometown. Now, thanks in large part to the coaching and contacts they made through Fish 2.0, Love the Wild distributes five products nationwide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The event is also fruitful for investors who are new to the space. \u003ca href=\"https://www.freshsourcecapital.com/\">Fresh Source Capital\u003c/a>’s Dan Pullman (who also serves on Civil Eats’ Advisory Board), attended Fish 2.0 for the first time this year looking for companies working in aquaculture and fish feed. “As an investor, it was great to have an efficient overview of entrepreneurs,” he says. “[It] gave me better education and gave me entrepreneurs to talk to and spend time with.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Fish 2.0 shows there’s clearly a lot of buzz in the space, the market itself still has a long way to go. According to SSI’s assessment, certified sustainably caught seafood made up only 14.2 percent of the total tonnage of seafood produced in 2015. Sustainably managed aquaculture was even lower, at 6.3 percent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The U.S. and Europe have made great strides in protecting their fisheries, but many producers in and around Asia and Africa continue to overfish. SSI \u003ca href=\"http://www.iisd.org/ssi/standards-and-the-blue-economy/\">found\u003c/a> that Asia produces 63 percent of global seafood but only 11 percent of that is certified sustainable. Without buy-in from China, the world’s largest per capita consumer of seafood and a notable absence at Fish 2.0—which Jain is trying hard to remedy—the sustainable seafood industry will struggle to catch up to its traditional counterpart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jackie Marks of \u003ca href=\"https://www.msc.org/\">the Marine Stewardship Council\u003c/a> (MSC), whose label is one of the oldest markers of sustainability, is optimistic about what she sees as a shifting tide in Asia. “One of the things that is of utmost importance to Chinese consumers is to make sure their seafood is traceable, because they want to know it comes from a reliable source,” she says. Increasingly, these consumers buy seafood on websites like Alibaba and many are becoming interested in labels like MSC, which guarantee high-quality, traceable supply chains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125000\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-northline-foods-Ben-Blakey-Pat-Glaab.jpg\" alt=\"Ben Blakey and Pat Glaab of Northline Seafoods, a 2017 Fish 2.0 winner.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"703\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125000\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-northline-foods-Ben-Blakey-Pat-Glaab.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-northline-foods-Ben-Blakey-Pat-Glaab-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-northline-foods-Ben-Blakey-Pat-Glaab-800x562.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-northline-foods-Ben-Blakey-Pat-Glaab-768x540.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-northline-foods-Ben-Blakey-Pat-Glaab-960x675.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-northline-foods-Ben-Blakey-Pat-Glaab-240x169.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-northline-foods-Ben-Blakey-Pat-Glaab-375x264.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-northline-foods-Ben-Blakey-Pat-Glaab-520x366.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ben Blakey and Pat Glaab of Northline Seafoods, a 2017 Fish 2.0 winner. \u003ccite>(Photo courtesy of \u003ca href=\"https://www.northlineseafoods.com/\">Northline Seafoods\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>EDF’s Fitzgerald remains hopeful. “Fish is the best environmental issue to work on,” he adds. “We know how to fix it; we’ve already fixed it in lots of places.” Fitzgerald acknowledged that fixing seafood might not be easy. But, he said, “when you get things right, the turnaround can be incredibly quick.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He offers the example of red snapper in the Gulf of Mexico. In the 1990s, the supply was down to only 3 percent of historical levels due to overfishing. Between 2007 and 2013, EDF partnered with local fishermen to determine how many fish could be sustainably caught. Then, they allocated specific catch numbers for each fishing operation. In just five years, \u003ca href=\"https://www.edf.org/oceans/gulf-mexico\">the population tripled and revenue doubled\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those gains, however, may soon be lost. \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.edf.org/edfish/2017/09/20/new-red-snapper-proposals-need-safeguards-from-overfishing/\">H.R. 3588\u003c/a>, which has just passed the House of Representatives’ Natural Resource Committee, threatens to undo that progress by weakening the science-based catch amounts the EDF and fisherman used to revive the fishery. In the current, unpredictable political climate, the role of a well-educated consumer and investor demands seems all the more important.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seaver emphasizes the need for Americans to increase demand for sustainably produced seafood. “We as Americans need to grow our consumption. When we grow our consumption, we incentivize the growth of the industry.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This story originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2018/01/25/fish-20-offers-cash-advice-to-an-ocean-of-seafood-start-ups/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>With the seafood industry in transition, these entrepreneurs are pitching ways to make it more sustainable.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large ballroom at Stanford University’s Arrillaga Alumni Center, jittery entrepreneurs make their way onto a small stage to pitch their sustainable seafood ventures. Out of 184 applications, only 40 have made the cut. Among the finalists are a mail-order oyster startup that will ship the food overnight to your door, a manufacturer of devices that track lost fishing gear, an Alaskan processing facility looking to expand, and training programs that teach Peruvian fishermen how to operate more sustainably.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re taking part in the third bi-annual \u003ca href=\"https://www.fish20.org/\">Fish 2.0 competition\u003c/a>, and the stakes are high. Many of these entrepreneurs have never made a pitch in front of an audience before. And with some of the largest and most respected investors in the sector, including \u003ca href=\"https://www.rabobank.com/en/about-rabobank/food-agribusiness/sectors/from-animals/sustainable-seafood/index.html\">Rabobank\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.aqua-spark.nl/\">Aqua-Spark\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"https://obvious.com/portfolio\">Obvious Ventures\u003c/a>, eagerly looking on, competitors are anxious to make a good impression. Flanked by projectors and armed only with a microphone and a remote to advance their slides, entrepreneurs from as far away as Italy, Peru, and the Solomon Islands have only a few minutes to make their pitch in front of a four-judge panel and a room full of potentially lucrative connections.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With global demand for sustainable seafood growing rapidly, the industry hasn’t been able to keep pace. Programs like Fish 2.0 hope to meet that demand and support the sector’s growth by connecting investors to emerging businesses. Similar to accelerators like \u003ca href=\"http://mixingbowlhub.com/about-us/\">Mixing Bowl\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.imagineh2o.org/mission\">Imagine H2O\u003c/a>, and the \u003ca href=\"https://chobaniincubator.com/about/\">Chobani Incubator\u003c/a>, Fish 2.0 aims to strengthen the sustainable seafood movement by helping ventures become financially sustainable, scalable, and profitable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although Fish 2.0 is framed as a competition, networking is what really matters for most participants. The eight competition winners each receive $5,000 in prize money, but for past winner Norah Eddy, whose company \u003ca href=\"https://www.saltygirlseafood.com/\">Salty Girl Seafood\u003c/a> sells sustainable fish in ready-to-cook, pre-marinated packages, the experience and exposure were more important than the actual cash. Eddy says the connections she fostered at Fish 2.0 two years ago have remained fruitful for Salty Girl, which has expanded its line of products since they \u003ca href=\"https://www.fish20.org/competitions/past\">won a prize\u003c/a> at the competition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125002\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 847px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-salty-girl-founders.jpg\" alt=\"Salty Girl Seafood founders Norah Eddy (left) and Laura Johnson.\" width=\"847\" height=\"609\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125002\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-salty-girl-founders.jpg 847w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-salty-girl-founders-160x115.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-salty-girl-founders-800x575.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-salty-girl-founders-768x552.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-salty-girl-founders-240x173.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-salty-girl-founders-375x270.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-salty-girl-founders-520x374.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 847px) 100vw, 847px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salty Girl Seafood founders Norah Eddy (left) and Laura Johnson. \u003ccite>(Photo courtesy of \u003ca href=\"https://www.saltygirlseafood.com/\">Salty Girl Seafood\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We’ve subsequently raised money and our connection to Fish 2.0 has only served us well in business following the competition,” Eddy adds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Forum for Changemakers\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fish 2.0 is the brainchild of Monica Jain, a Wharton MBA graduate and former marine biologist, and it brings her two passions together. “There are a lot of great companies starting up and they need capital to grow effectively,” she says. “It’s the same in every field. We can’t expect innovative business to grow without capital.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124999\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-monica-jain-1-700x1049.jpg\" alt=\"Monica Jain.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-124999\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-monica-jain-1-700x1049.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-monica-jain-1-700x1049-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-monica-jain-1-700x1049-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-monica-jain-1-700x1049-375x562.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-monica-jain-1-700x1049-520x779.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monica Jain. \u003ccite>(Photo courtesy of Fish 2.0)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Funded by academic institutions, the David and Lucile Packard Foundation, USAID, the U.S. State Department, investment funds, and others, the Fish 2.0 process starts a year before the actual event, with businesses applying to the competition online. Each applicant is put through a series of assessments that examine their business plans, potential for impact, risks, and opportunities for investment. While some businesses are well-established and looking to expand, others are looking for their initial seed money.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No matter the size of their business, each of the top 40 entrepreneurs is paired with an impact advisor and an investment advisor who offer feedback on both the science and the business sense of their model. The contestants span the broad and diverse seafood supply chain, with offerings ranging from an oyster co-op in Florida looking for investors to help fund construction of a hatchery, to \u003ca href=\"http://seafoodiq.com/\">Seafood IQ\u003c/a>, an Icelandic company that uses radio frequency identification (RFID) labels so consumers can be sure they know where their fish is coming from.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seafood provides a unique challenge because the industry is global, fractured, and full of middlemen. Salmon, for example, may be caught in Alaska, processed in China, and then shipped back to the U.S. for sale. As with \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2017/04/06/will-trump-revive-cool-and-make-american-meat-great-again/\">other meats\u003c/a>, it’s often difficult to tell where seafood is coming from or \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2017/10/11/can-we-trust-the-sustainable-meat-we-order-online/\">whether it’s sustainable\u003c/a>. And the problem is getting more pronounced as global demand increases. In 2016, the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) \u003ca href=\"http://www.fao.org/3/a-i5555e.pdf\">found\u003c/a> that global per capita fish consumption had hit more than 44 pounds a year, an all-time high.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Earlier this year the World Bank \u003ca href=\"http://www.worldbank.org/en/news/press-release/2017/02/14/giving-oceans-a-break-could-generate-83-billion-in-additional-benefits-for-fisheries\">reported\u003c/a> that, “about 90 percent of marine fisheries monitored by the FAO are fully fished or overfished, up from about 75 percent in 2005.” In addition to increased consumption, the report also points to the fact that “fish stocks are also under pressure from pollution, coastal development, and the impacts of climate change.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rather than focusing on improving consumer education or tightening governmental regulations, Fish 2.0 hopes to protect the oceans by showing sustainability makes good business sense. Because the seafood industry relies on natural resources, Jain believes that sustainable ventures, which are able to preserve those resources for years to come, are more “likely to do better in the long run.” Sustainable, she says, is simply “better business.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tim Fitzgerald of the \u003ca href=\"https://edf.org/\">Environmental Defense Fund\u003c/a> (EDF)—and a judge at this year’s Fish 2.0 contest—agrees that this investment is vital to the long-term health of the oceans. “To have large-scale change, you have to engage business,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Increasingly, investors and entrepreneurs are recognizing the potential in the sustainable seafood market. The World Bank \u003ca href=\"http://www.worldbank.org/en/news/press-release/2017/02/14/giving-oceans-a-break-could-generate-83-billion-in-additional-benefits-for-fisheries\">estimates\u003c/a> that better, more sustainable fishing practices could have an incredible impact, “boosting the profitability of the fisheries sector from an estimated $3 billion a year to $86 billion.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Changing Industry\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the fastest-growing parts of the sustainable seafood sector is aquaculture, a fact that is evident at Fish 2.0. Even with better fisheries management, experts say it’s unlikely we’ll be able to get much more wild-caught fish out of the oceans. Proponents say aquaculture offers a sustainable alternative for increasing the amount of fish on the market, a prospect that intrigues investors and environmentalists alike. Like industrial farming models, however, aquaculture projects have the potential to create both large amounts of food, and \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2016/01/07/can-land-based-fish-farms-solve-farmed-seafood-woes-aquaculture/\">large impacts on the environment\u003c/a>. Fish farms often have a negative reputation for producing excess waste and sub-par food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, says Barton Seaver, Director of \u003ca href=\"https://chge.hsph.harvard.edu/sustainable-seafood-and-health-initiative\">Harvard’s Sustainable Seafood and Health Initiative\u003c/a>, aquaculture has huge potential and has made great strides in recent years. “As an industry, it is so young. It deserves some leeway,” he explains. He sees Fish 2.0 as a way to “begin to tell the narrative of aquaculture as an industry with incredible potential.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, the contestants presented investors with a wide variety of different problems and solutions. \u003ca href=\"http://www.gaskiyadiagnostics.com/\">Gaskiya Diagnostics\u003c/a> developed a rapid, paper-based diagnostic test for common fish diseases, allowing farmers to use fewer antibiotics and reduce waste. \u003ca href=\"https://www.novonutrients.com/\">NovoNutrients\u003c/a> plans to use microbes to convert industrial carbon dioxide emissions into fish and animal feed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>New ventures like these—and venture capital firms ready to fund them—have sprung up in recent years. According to \u003ca href=\"https://www.iisd.org/ssi/\">the State of Sustainability Initiatives\u003c/a>, (SSI), an alliance of organizations focused on informing commodity stakeholders around the world, the market for sustainable seafood grew 35 percent from 2003 to 2005, which amounts to 10 times the growth of the conventional seafood market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That trend has only continued. In 2016, SSI \u003ca href=\"http://www.iisd.org/ssi/standards-and-the-blue-economy/\">reported\u003c/a> that investment in the global seafood market hit $11.5 billion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125001\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-panacea-oyster-co.jpg\" alt=\"An oyster harvest with Panacea Oyster Co-op, a 2017 Fish 2.0 winner.\" width=\"980\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125001\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-panacea-oyster-co.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-panacea-oyster-co-160x98.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-panacea-oyster-co-800x490.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-panacea-oyster-co-768x470.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-panacea-oyster-co-960x588.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-panacea-oyster-co-240x147.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-panacea-oyster-co-375x230.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-panacea-oyster-co-520x318.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An oyster harvest with Panacea Oyster Co-op, a 2017 Fish 2.0 winner. \u003ccite>(Photo courtesy of \u003ca href=\"https://www.panaceaoysters.com/\">Panacea Oyster\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jain and Fish 2.0 have witnessed this explosive growth first hand. Jain says that five years ago, hosting a bi-annual event made sense, with new companies appearing at a relatively modest rate. “But the rate of innovation I’ve seen this year is much faster,” she says, adding that she receives requests year-round for guidance from investors looking to join the market. The event and resulting networking can be transformative.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take, for example, \u003ca href=\"https://lovethewild.com/\">Love the Wild\u003c/a>, a Boulder-based company that creates easy-to-cook meal kits featuring sustainably farmed fish. When the company competed at Fish 2.0 in 2015, CEO Jacqueline Claudia described it as “all vision.” They had sold less than $1,000 in merchandise in their hometown. Now, thanks in large part to the coaching and contacts they made through Fish 2.0, Love the Wild distributes five products nationwide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The event is also fruitful for investors who are new to the space. \u003ca href=\"https://www.freshsourcecapital.com/\">Fresh Source Capital\u003c/a>’s Dan Pullman (who also serves on Civil Eats’ Advisory Board), attended Fish 2.0 for the first time this year looking for companies working in aquaculture and fish feed. “As an investor, it was great to have an efficient overview of entrepreneurs,” he says. “[It] gave me better education and gave me entrepreneurs to talk to and spend time with.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Fish 2.0 shows there’s clearly a lot of buzz in the space, the market itself still has a long way to go. According to SSI’s assessment, certified sustainably caught seafood made up only 14.2 percent of the total tonnage of seafood produced in 2015. Sustainably managed aquaculture was even lower, at 6.3 percent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The U.S. and Europe have made great strides in protecting their fisheries, but many producers in and around Asia and Africa continue to overfish. SSI \u003ca href=\"http://www.iisd.org/ssi/standards-and-the-blue-economy/\">found\u003c/a> that Asia produces 63 percent of global seafood but only 11 percent of that is certified sustainable. Without buy-in from China, the world’s largest per capita consumer of seafood and a notable absence at Fish 2.0—which Jain is trying hard to remedy—the sustainable seafood industry will struggle to catch up to its traditional counterpart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jackie Marks of \u003ca href=\"https://www.msc.org/\">the Marine Stewardship Council\u003c/a> (MSC), whose label is one of the oldest markers of sustainability, is optimistic about what she sees as a shifting tide in Asia. “One of the things that is of utmost importance to Chinese consumers is to make sure their seafood is traceable, because they want to know it comes from a reliable source,” she says. Increasingly, these consumers buy seafood on websites like Alibaba and many are becoming interested in labels like MSC, which guarantee high-quality, traceable supply chains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125000\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-northline-foods-Ben-Blakey-Pat-Glaab.jpg\" alt=\"Ben Blakey and Pat Glaab of Northline Seafoods, a 2017 Fish 2.0 winner.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"703\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125000\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-northline-foods-Ben-Blakey-Pat-Glaab.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-northline-foods-Ben-Blakey-Pat-Glaab-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-northline-foods-Ben-Blakey-Pat-Glaab-800x562.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-northline-foods-Ben-Blakey-Pat-Glaab-768x540.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-northline-foods-Ben-Blakey-Pat-Glaab-960x675.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-northline-foods-Ben-Blakey-Pat-Glaab-240x169.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-northline-foods-Ben-Blakey-Pat-Glaab-375x264.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/180125-fish-20-northline-foods-Ben-Blakey-Pat-Glaab-520x366.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ben Blakey and Pat Glaab of Northline Seafoods, a 2017 Fish 2.0 winner. \u003ccite>(Photo courtesy of \u003ca href=\"https://www.northlineseafoods.com/\">Northline Seafoods\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>EDF’s Fitzgerald remains hopeful. “Fish is the best environmental issue to work on,” he adds. “We know how to fix it; we’ve already fixed it in lots of places.” Fitzgerald acknowledged that fixing seafood might not be easy. But, he said, “when you get things right, the turnaround can be incredibly quick.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He offers the example of red snapper in the Gulf of Mexico. In the 1990s, the supply was down to only 3 percent of historical levels due to overfishing. Between 2007 and 2013, EDF partnered with local fishermen to determine how many fish could be sustainably caught. Then, they allocated specific catch numbers for each fishing operation. In just five years, \u003ca href=\"https://www.edf.org/oceans/gulf-mexico\">the population tripled and revenue doubled\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those gains, however, may soon be lost. \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.edf.org/edfish/2017/09/20/new-red-snapper-proposals-need-safeguards-from-overfishing/\">H.R. 3588\u003c/a>, which has just passed the House of Representatives’ Natural Resource Committee, threatens to undo that progress by weakening the science-based catch amounts the EDF and fisherman used to revive the fishery. In the current, unpredictable political climate, the role of a well-educated consumer and investor demands seems all the more important.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seaver emphasizes the need for Americans to increase demand for sustainably produced seafood. “We as Americans need to grow our consumption. When we grow our consumption, we incentivize the growth of the industry.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This story originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2018/01/25/fish-20-offers-cash-advice-to-an-ocean-of-seafood-start-ups/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "FDA Issues New Seafood Advice For Moms-To-Be. Not Everyone Is Thrilled",
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"content": "\u003cp>For many pregnant women, understanding what seafood is safe and healthy, and what should be avoided because of mercury concerns comes with a lot of hand-wringing. In part, that's because the federal government's advice on the matter, first issued in 2004, has long been criticized as unclear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That guidance has included advice on how much seafood to eat, and which species pregnant and nursing women should avoid over concerns about mercury contamination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But critics say the government advisory has done more harm than good, scaring many pregnant and nursing women (and let's be real — pretty much everyone else) away from eating seafood altogether.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The problem is real. According to a spokesman for the Food and Drug Administration, the agency analyzed fish consumption data from more than 1,000 pregnant women in the U.S. and found that 21 percent of them ate no fish whatsoever in the previous month. And those who did eat fish consumed far less than recommended by the Dietary Guidelines: Some 50 percent ate less than 2 ounces a week and 75 percent ate less than 4 ounces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This week, in the waning days of the Obama administration, the FDA and Environmental Protection Agency issued an \u003ca href=\"http://www.fda.gov/Food/FoodborneIllnessContaminants/Metals/ucm393070.htm\">update to the advice\u003c/a>, listing more than 60 species in a chart that ranks fish as a \"best choice,\" \"good choice\" and \"choices to avoid.\" The goal is to make it easier for moms-to-be to feel confident about the type of seafood they include in their diets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new advice recommends consumers choose a variety of fish to eat. And it comes with an easy-to-understand illustration of what an appropriate portion size should be: 4 ounces for an adult, the full size of your palm; and 2 ounces for children aged 4-7 — which is more like the inside cup of your palm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while expectant mothers have long been warned to stay away from shark, King mackerel, swordfish and tilefish from the Gulf of Mexico, now there's three new species on the list of what to avoid: marlin, orange roughy, and bigeye tuna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, not everyone is thrilled with the new advice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can put this in with the Chelsea Manning pardon, it's that controversial,\" says Dr. Tom Brenna, a professor of human nutrition at Cornell University and a member of the government's 2015 Dietary Guideline Committee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brenna and other critics say the new advice doesn't always jibe with the agency's own scientific findings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.fda.gov/downloads/Food/FoodborneIllnessContaminants/Metals/UCM396785.pdf\">2014 report from the FDA\u003c/a> looked at the net effects of eating commercial fish during pregnancy on the neurodevelopment of growing babies. The report found it would be safe to eat 61 ounces of halibut a week. (That's about 15 four-ounce servings.) But the new advisory from the FDA suggests that halibut be limited to just once a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're completely ignoring their own [2014] report,\" Brenna says. \"It's a terrible, awful message. They've ignored the nutrition science and at best, they're ranking the amount of mercury.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Brenna argues that splitting tuna into three different categories muddles an already complex message even further. Bigeye tuna (often known as ahi) falls on the \"avoid\" list, while albacore and yellowfin are listed as \"good choices,\" and canned light tuna, which includes skipjack, is listed as a \"best choice.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People won't see there's a difference between the types of tuna, they'll only see that tuna is on the list,\" Brenna says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, others worried the new advice might prompt pregnant women and small kids to eat too much tuna. \"If pregnant women or small kids followed the new advice from the government on mercury and tuna[,] they could easily consume more mercury than is safe for developing brains,\" Lisa Lefferts, a senior scientist with The Center for Science in the Public Interest, said in a statement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an email to NPR, FDA spokesperson Peter Cassell says it's important to note that this guidance is targeted to certain women and young children. \"We took a cautious and highly protective approach in determining which fish belonged in each category and are comfortable with the limits we are providing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While mercury looms large when we're talking about pregnant women and seafood, it's not the only contaminant of concern.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new EPA/FDA chart lists both wild striped bass and bluefish as \"good choices,\" meaning one serving a week is OK. But striped bass and bluefish on the East Coast have been known to have high levels of PCBs, which can build up in the fatty tissues of fish and bring health risks to humans, says Tim Fitzgerald of the Environmental Defense Fund.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's why, to cite one example, depending the fish's size, Maryland's consumption advisory recommends women limit meals of striped bass to as little as\u003ca href=\"http://www.mde.state.md.us/programs/Marylander/CitizensInfoCenterHome/Documents/Fish%20Consumption%20Docs/Maryland_Fish_Advisories_2014_Web_bluecatedit.pdf\"> one serving a month\u003c/a> — far less than the new FDA/EPA advisory recommends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The FDA maintains that its final consumption recommendations were based on rigorous scientific analysis. Agency spokesman Cassell says the FDA believes the recommendations will instill confidence, not uncertainty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brenna disagrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think the advice they're giving is not based on the evidence in their own detailed report,\" he says, \"and that it confuses everyone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.leschin-hoar.com/\">Clare Leschin-Hoar\u003c/a>\u003cem> is a journalist based in San Diego who covers food policy and sustainability issues.\u003c/em> \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\"> NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Concerns about mercury contamination have led many pregnant women to under-consume seafood. So the FDA issued a new chart explaining what to eat and what to avoid. But critics say it muddles matters.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>For many pregnant women, understanding what seafood is safe and healthy, and what should be avoided because of mercury concerns comes with a lot of hand-wringing. In part, that's because the federal government's advice on the matter, first issued in 2004, has long been criticized as unclear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That guidance has included advice on how much seafood to eat, and which species pregnant and nursing women should avoid over concerns about mercury contamination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But critics say the government advisory has done more harm than good, scaring many pregnant and nursing women (and let's be real — pretty much everyone else) away from eating seafood altogether.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The problem is real. According to a spokesman for the Food and Drug Administration, the agency analyzed fish consumption data from more than 1,000 pregnant women in the U.S. and found that 21 percent of them ate no fish whatsoever in the previous month. And those who did eat fish consumed far less than recommended by the Dietary Guidelines: Some 50 percent ate less than 2 ounces a week and 75 percent ate less than 4 ounces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This week, in the waning days of the Obama administration, the FDA and Environmental Protection Agency issued an \u003ca href=\"http://www.fda.gov/Food/FoodborneIllnessContaminants/Metals/ucm393070.htm\">update to the advice\u003c/a>, listing more than 60 species in a chart that ranks fish as a \"best choice,\" \"good choice\" and \"choices to avoid.\" The goal is to make it easier for moms-to-be to feel confident about the type of seafood they include in their diets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new advice recommends consumers choose a variety of fish to eat. And it comes with an easy-to-understand illustration of what an appropriate portion size should be: 4 ounces for an adult, the full size of your palm; and 2 ounces for children aged 4-7 — which is more like the inside cup of your palm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while expectant mothers have long been warned to stay away from shark, King mackerel, swordfish and tilefish from the Gulf of Mexico, now there's three new species on the list of what to avoid: marlin, orange roughy, and bigeye tuna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, not everyone is thrilled with the new advice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can put this in with the Chelsea Manning pardon, it's that controversial,\" says Dr. Tom Brenna, a professor of human nutrition at Cornell University and a member of the government's 2015 Dietary Guideline Committee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brenna and other critics say the new advice doesn't always jibe with the agency's own scientific findings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.fda.gov/downloads/Food/FoodborneIllnessContaminants/Metals/UCM396785.pdf\">2014 report from the FDA\u003c/a> looked at the net effects of eating commercial fish during pregnancy on the neurodevelopment of growing babies. The report found it would be safe to eat 61 ounces of halibut a week. (That's about 15 four-ounce servings.) But the new advisory from the FDA suggests that halibut be limited to just once a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're completely ignoring their own [2014] report,\" Brenna says. \"It's a terrible, awful message. They've ignored the nutrition science and at best, they're ranking the amount of mercury.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Brenna argues that splitting tuna into three different categories muddles an already complex message even further. Bigeye tuna (often known as ahi) falls on the \"avoid\" list, while albacore and yellowfin are listed as \"good choices,\" and canned light tuna, which includes skipjack, is listed as a \"best choice.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People won't see there's a difference between the types of tuna, they'll only see that tuna is on the list,\" Brenna says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, others worried the new advice might prompt pregnant women and small kids to eat too much tuna. \"If pregnant women or small kids followed the new advice from the government on mercury and tuna[,] they could easily consume more mercury than is safe for developing brains,\" Lisa Lefferts, a senior scientist with The Center for Science in the Public Interest, said in a statement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an email to NPR, FDA spokesperson Peter Cassell says it's important to note that this guidance is targeted to certain women and young children. \"We took a cautious and highly protective approach in determining which fish belonged in each category and are comfortable with the limits we are providing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While mercury looms large when we're talking about pregnant women and seafood, it's not the only contaminant of concern.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new EPA/FDA chart lists both wild striped bass and bluefish as \"good choices,\" meaning one serving a week is OK. But striped bass and bluefish on the East Coast have been known to have high levels of PCBs, which can build up in the fatty tissues of fish and bring health risks to humans, says Tim Fitzgerald of the Environmental Defense Fund.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's why, to cite one example, depending the fish's size, Maryland's consumption advisory recommends women limit meals of striped bass to as little as\u003ca href=\"http://www.mde.state.md.us/programs/Marylander/CitizensInfoCenterHome/Documents/Fish%20Consumption%20Docs/Maryland_Fish_Advisories_2014_Web_bluecatedit.pdf\"> one serving a month\u003c/a> — far less than the new FDA/EPA advisory recommends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The FDA maintains that its final consumption recommendations were based on rigorous scientific analysis. Agency spokesman Cassell says the FDA believes the recommendations will instill confidence, not uncertainty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brenna disagrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think the advice they're giving is not based on the evidence in their own detailed report,\" he says, \"and that it confuses everyone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.leschin-hoar.com/\">Clare Leschin-Hoar\u003c/a>\u003cem> is a journalist based in San Diego who covers food policy and sustainability issues.\u003c/em> \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\"> NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Warmer Oceans Could Boost The Toxins In Your Shellfish Dinner",
"title": "Warmer Oceans Could Boost The Toxins In Your Shellfish Dinner",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>West Coast crab fishermen just ended an \u003ca href=\"http://www.kgw.com/news/local/strike-by-west-coast-crab-fishermen-ends-after-11-days/383612717\">11-day strike\u003c/a> over a price dispute. But a more ominous and long-term threat to their livelihood may be on the horizon. A \u003ca href=\"http://www.pnas.org/content/early/2017/01/03/1606798114\">new study \u003c/a>in the \u003cem>Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences\u003c/em> has found a link between warming ocean conditions and a dangerous neurotoxin that builds up in sea life: domoic acid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seafood lovers got a glimpse of that threat in 2015, when record high ocean temperatures and lingering toxic algae blooms raised the domoic acid in shellfish to unsafe levels, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/11/07/455049713/why-a-neurotoxin-is-closing-crab-season-in-california\">shutting down\u003c/a> the West Coast Dungeness crab fishery from Alaska to Southern California for several months. Though less dramatic, the problem emerged again this season, when harvesting was again \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.cbslocal.com/2016/11/25/dungeness-crab-season-delay-domoic-acid-point-reyes-eureka/\">delayed\u003c/a> for portions of the coasts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Domoic acid is a toxin produced by Pseudo-nitzschia, a micro algae which can accumulate in species like Dungeness crab, clams, mussels and anchovy. It can be harmful to both humans and \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinemammalcenter.org/about-us/News-Room/2015-news-archives/toxic-algal-bloom.html?referrer=https://www.google.com/\">wildlife\u003c/a>, including sea lions and birds. Remember the famous Alfred Hitchcock movie, \u003cem>The Birds\u003c/em>? It was inspired by a \u003ca href=\"http://www.livescience.com/17713-hitchcock-birds-movie-algae-toxin.html\">real-life incident \u003c/a>of California seabirds driven into a frenzy by the neurotoxin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although we're starting to hear about domoic acid more often, it's been on the radar of public health officials since a Canadian\u003ca href=\"https://www.nwfsc.noaa.gov/hab/habs_toxins/marine_biotoxins/da/\"> outbreak in 1987\u003c/a> killed three and sickened over 100. In mild cases, it can cause vomiting, diarrhea and abdominal cramps. Severe cases can cause trouble breathing, memory loss, and even coma or death.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the case of Dungeness crabs, the food chain looks like this: The phytoplankton Pseudo-nitzschia produces the toxin domoic acid during an algae bloom. Zooplankton and filter feeders, like clams and mussels, then eat that phytoplankton. (Interestingly, not all shellfish react the same way. Mussels, for example, are able to rid themselves of the toxin within a few weeks, while domoic acid may linger in clams for several months, even up to a year.) Those delicious Dungeness crabs we like so much have a taste for clams, which is where domoic acid can be passed up the food chain to us humans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Officials are able to test for unsafe levels, keeping tainted seafood out of restaurants and away from seafood counters, but scientists haven't been able to predict when natural algae blooms may take a toxic turn — until now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The record of domoic acid is now 20 years long, allowing us to look at it from a different perspective than anyone has previously,\" says Morgaine McKibben, a Ph.D. candidate at Oregon State University and lead author of the new study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_114574\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 699px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/3196_custom-7cabf257511af547ead3f820968faa77036ae963-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"A sign warning beach goers against digging for razor clams along the coast of Washington state.\" width=\"699\" height=\"927\" class=\"size-full wp-image-114574\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/3196_custom-7cabf257511af547ead3f820968faa77036ae963-s700-c85.jpg 699w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/3196_custom-7cabf257511af547ead3f820968faa77036ae963-s700-c85-160x212.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/3196_custom-7cabf257511af547ead3f820968faa77036ae963-s700-c85-240x318.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/3196_custom-7cabf257511af547ead3f820968faa77036ae963-s700-c85-375x497.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/3196_custom-7cabf257511af547ead3f820968faa77036ae963-s700-c85-520x690.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 699px) 100vw, 699px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sign warning beach goers against digging for razor clams along the coast of Washington state. \u003ccite>(Washington State Department of Health)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The researchers looked at long-term data collected from Oregon razor clams, copepods (zooplankton that drift with the currents and are studied to predict salmon runs), and recurring climate patterns known as the Pacific Decadal Oscillation and El Nino Southern Oscillation. And they were able to establish that domoic acid events, like those that have been impacting the West Coast Dungeness crab fishery, are strongly related to warm phases in the ocean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The most important takeaway from the study is that it's telling us about changes in the food web based on long-term observations of changes in the oceans. It's a very zoomed out view of how the food web responds to natural changes to ocean conditions. That's very important when you talk about resource management,\" says McKibben.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These types of long-term records are somewhat rare in oceanography, she says, because \"it's hard to find funding to keep consistent observations like this going.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And a future with more frequent domoic acid events seems likely, says says Bill Peterson, a NOAA senior scientist and co-author of the study. \"We're having more and more of these warm ocean events and we're going to have more domoic acid blooms each year. It might become a chronic problem,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That paints a troubling picture for crab fishermen like Bob Eder of Newport, Ore. While domoic acid might go away for a year or two as a problem, it \"is something we'll now be dealing with for a long time,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also worries about how future domoic acid events could impact exports — critically important to boosting the overall price of whole crabs. While Americans typically eat only the meat from the crab, Chinese consumers also eat what's known as the \"butter\" (or guts) of the crab, where domoic acid tends to be more concentrated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Officials from the California Department of Public Health say they test year-round for toxic phytoplankton at more than 100 sampling sites along the entire California coastline, and that 2015 was the first year domoic acid was found in crab meat. Oregon and Washington have similar sampling strategies, and have collaborated with California on Dungeness crab testing over the last two years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Peterson thinks states vulnerable to domoic acid events should be doing even more testing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They should sample more often and over a wider ... area,\" says Peterson. \"Crab harvests are a huge money maker on the West Coast. You can't have people think they're going to get sick from eating crabs. Pretty soon [states] are going to have to sample more often and more places to keep better tabs on what's going on in the ocean.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patrick Kennelly, chief of the food safety section for the California Department of Public Health, says he's confident the state's monitoring program is strong and able to ramp up as needed. He notes that officials have already started testing Dungeness crab months before the season begins. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A new study finds a link between warming waters and a dangerous neurotoxin that builds up in species like Dungeness crab, clams and mussels — and harms us if we eat them.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>West Coast crab fishermen just ended an \u003ca href=\"http://www.kgw.com/news/local/strike-by-west-coast-crab-fishermen-ends-after-11-days/383612717\">11-day strike\u003c/a> over a price dispute. But a more ominous and long-term threat to their livelihood may be on the horizon. A \u003ca href=\"http://www.pnas.org/content/early/2017/01/03/1606798114\">new study \u003c/a>in the \u003cem>Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences\u003c/em> has found a link between warming ocean conditions and a dangerous neurotoxin that builds up in sea life: domoic acid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seafood lovers got a glimpse of that threat in 2015, when record high ocean temperatures and lingering toxic algae blooms raised the domoic acid in shellfish to unsafe levels, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/11/07/455049713/why-a-neurotoxin-is-closing-crab-season-in-california\">shutting down\u003c/a> the West Coast Dungeness crab fishery from Alaska to Southern California for several months. Though less dramatic, the problem emerged again this season, when harvesting was again \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.cbslocal.com/2016/11/25/dungeness-crab-season-delay-domoic-acid-point-reyes-eureka/\">delayed\u003c/a> for portions of the coasts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Domoic acid is a toxin produced by Pseudo-nitzschia, a micro algae which can accumulate in species like Dungeness crab, clams, mussels and anchovy. It can be harmful to both humans and \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinemammalcenter.org/about-us/News-Room/2015-news-archives/toxic-algal-bloom.html?referrer=https://www.google.com/\">wildlife\u003c/a>, including sea lions and birds. Remember the famous Alfred Hitchcock movie, \u003cem>The Birds\u003c/em>? It was inspired by a \u003ca href=\"http://www.livescience.com/17713-hitchcock-birds-movie-algae-toxin.html\">real-life incident \u003c/a>of California seabirds driven into a frenzy by the neurotoxin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although we're starting to hear about domoic acid more often, it's been on the radar of public health officials since a Canadian\u003ca href=\"https://www.nwfsc.noaa.gov/hab/habs_toxins/marine_biotoxins/da/\"> outbreak in 1987\u003c/a> killed three and sickened over 100. In mild cases, it can cause vomiting, diarrhea and abdominal cramps. Severe cases can cause trouble breathing, memory loss, and even coma or death.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the case of Dungeness crabs, the food chain looks like this: The phytoplankton Pseudo-nitzschia produces the toxin domoic acid during an algae bloom. Zooplankton and filter feeders, like clams and mussels, then eat that phytoplankton. (Interestingly, not all shellfish react the same way. Mussels, for example, are able to rid themselves of the toxin within a few weeks, while domoic acid may linger in clams for several months, even up to a year.) Those delicious Dungeness crabs we like so much have a taste for clams, which is where domoic acid can be passed up the food chain to us humans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Officials are able to test for unsafe levels, keeping tainted seafood out of restaurants and away from seafood counters, but scientists haven't been able to predict when natural algae blooms may take a toxic turn — until now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The record of domoic acid is now 20 years long, allowing us to look at it from a different perspective than anyone has previously,\" says Morgaine McKibben, a Ph.D. candidate at Oregon State University and lead author of the new study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_114574\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 699px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/3196_custom-7cabf257511af547ead3f820968faa77036ae963-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"A sign warning beach goers against digging for razor clams along the coast of Washington state.\" width=\"699\" height=\"927\" class=\"size-full wp-image-114574\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/3196_custom-7cabf257511af547ead3f820968faa77036ae963-s700-c85.jpg 699w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/3196_custom-7cabf257511af547ead3f820968faa77036ae963-s700-c85-160x212.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/3196_custom-7cabf257511af547ead3f820968faa77036ae963-s700-c85-240x318.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/3196_custom-7cabf257511af547ead3f820968faa77036ae963-s700-c85-375x497.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/3196_custom-7cabf257511af547ead3f820968faa77036ae963-s700-c85-520x690.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 699px) 100vw, 699px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sign warning beach goers against digging for razor clams along the coast of Washington state. \u003ccite>(Washington State Department of Health)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The researchers looked at long-term data collected from Oregon razor clams, copepods (zooplankton that drift with the currents and are studied to predict salmon runs), and recurring climate patterns known as the Pacific Decadal Oscillation and El Nino Southern Oscillation. And they were able to establish that domoic acid events, like those that have been impacting the West Coast Dungeness crab fishery, are strongly related to warm phases in the ocean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The most important takeaway from the study is that it's telling us about changes in the food web based on long-term observations of changes in the oceans. It's a very zoomed out view of how the food web responds to natural changes to ocean conditions. That's very important when you talk about resource management,\" says McKibben.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These types of long-term records are somewhat rare in oceanography, she says, because \"it's hard to find funding to keep consistent observations like this going.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And a future with more frequent domoic acid events seems likely, says says Bill Peterson, a NOAA senior scientist and co-author of the study. \"We're having more and more of these warm ocean events and we're going to have more domoic acid blooms each year. It might become a chronic problem,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That paints a troubling picture for crab fishermen like Bob Eder of Newport, Ore. While domoic acid might go away for a year or two as a problem, it \"is something we'll now be dealing with for a long time,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also worries about how future domoic acid events could impact exports — critically important to boosting the overall price of whole crabs. While Americans typically eat only the meat from the crab, Chinese consumers also eat what's known as the \"butter\" (or guts) of the crab, where domoic acid tends to be more concentrated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Officials from the California Department of Public Health say they test year-round for toxic phytoplankton at more than 100 sampling sites along the entire California coastline, and that 2015 was the first year domoic acid was found in crab meat. Oregon and Washington have similar sampling strategies, and have collaborated with California on Dungeness crab testing over the last two years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Peterson thinks states vulnerable to domoic acid events should be doing even more testing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They should sample more often and over a wider ... area,\" says Peterson. \"Crab harvests are a huge money maker on the West Coast. You can't have people think they're going to get sick from eating crabs. Pretty soon [states] are going to have to sample more often and more places to keep better tabs on what's going on in the ocean.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patrick Kennelly, chief of the food safety section for the California Department of Public Health, says he's confident the state's monitoring program is strong and able to ramp up as needed. He notes that officials have already started testing Dungeness crab months before the season begins. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Hey, Looks Like Americans Are Finally Eating More Fish",
"title": "Hey, Looks Like Americans Are Finally Eating More Fish",
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"content": "\u003cp>San Diego native Megan Olbur didn't grow up eating much seafood beyond tuna sandwiches, fish sticks or the occasional salmon dinners her parents made. But in 2015, when Olbur became pregnant with a daughter of her own, she heeded the advice of her physician and deliberately began adding more seafood to her diet as a way to boost brain development and to ensure the health of her growing baby.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It turns out, she wasn't alone in upping her fish fare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the annual\u003ca href=\"http://www.st.nmfs.noaa.gov/commercial-fisheries/fus/fus15/index\"> Fisheries of the United States Report\u003c/a> released by NOAA last week, Americans increased their seafood consumption to 15.5 pounds of fish and shellfish per person in 2015, up nearly a pound from the previous year, making it the biggest leap in seafood consumption in 20 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's terrific news,\" says Tom Brenna, professor of human nutrition at Cornell University and a member of the 2015 Dietary Guideline Committee. \"We're moving in the right direction.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a rare nutritional pat-on-the-back for Americans, who routinely get chastised over their diets, but the good news comes with some caveats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bump in seafood consumption may mean that we're enjoying four additional seafood meals a year, but we're still only eating about 4.77 ounces of seafood a week. That's better than where we were just a few years ago, but nowhere close to the 8 ounces of seafood per week most of us should be eating according to the most current \u003ca href=\"https://health.gov/dietaryguidelines/2015/guidelines/\">Dietary Guidelines\u003c/a>. (For women who are pregnant, may become pregnant or are breastfeeding, the recommendation is to consume at least 8 ounces and up to 12 ounces of a variety of seafood per week, from choices lower in methylmercury.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And we're still not doing a very good job of getting a variety of seafood into our diets. According to the National Fisheries Institute, shrimp, salmon and tuna continue to dominate the top of their \u003ca href=\"http://www.aboutseafood.com/video_blog/2015-top-ten-list/\">most-consumed seafood list\u003c/a>, just as those tasty species have for the past decade. But even a small uptick in seafood consumption is seen as a boon to public health and is a step in the right direction toward reduced risks of cardiovascular disease and improving the neurodevelopment of children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Any fish is better than none, and any fish is better than fried, empty-calorie junk food,\" says Joe Hibbeln, a researcher with the National Institutes of Health who has studied the effects of fish and omega-3 fatty acids in reducing depression, suicide and violence. Hibbeln says the nutritional value of seafood is so important to health, he'd like to see it served more frequently in the school lunch program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>NOAA doesn't break out individual species or products in its latest report, but Michael Liddel, a statistician with the agency, notes that one-third of the increase in consumption came from canned seafood products, particularly canned salmon. That increase may stem from \u003ca href=\"http://www.fns.usda.gov/tefap/emergency-food-assistance-program-tefap\">The Emergency Food Assistance Program\u003c/a> at the USDA, which purchased more than $40 million in surplus canned Alaskan salmon in \u003ca href=\"http://juneauempire.com/local/2014-09-03/usda-buy-13m-alaska-salmon\">2014\u003c/a> and\u003ca href=\"http://www.alaskapublic.org/2015/08/10/government-to-buy-30m-of-canned-sockeye/\"> 2015\u003c/a> and distributed it to food banks across the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the 15.5 pounds of seafood is worth noting, and makes the U.S. the second-largest consumer of seafood after China (and ahead of Japan), it's still an amount that's dwarfed by our national appetite for chicken and beef. Janet M. Riley, senior vice president at the North American Meat Institute, says Americans ate approximately 59.2 pounds of chicken and 51.7 pounds of beef in 2014 — each more than double our seafood intake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's worth noting that, while NOAA's consumption figures are considered reliable, they're calculated using what's called a \"disappearance\" model. Broadly, that means they add domestic landings and seafood imports together, while subtracting out exports to determine domestic consumption. That's very different than the way the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention looks at consumption through its National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey (NHANES). There, interviews are used to determine what Americans are actually eating, and differences in data may appear. (NHANES data is what the Dietary Guidelines Committee relies on.) But according to CDC officials, analyzed NHANES data from 2015 is not yet available, so we can't compare the numbers with the NOAA finding. Still, Brenna thinks the NOAA figures are a strong sign that consumption is up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what's holding Americans back from reaching the magic number of 8 to 12 ounces of seafood a week?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gavin Gibbons, spokesperson for the National Fisheries Institute, cites \"years of confusing messages over what's sustainable and healthy.\" He has a point. As recently as 2014, the EPA and FDA were \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2014/jun/14/pregnant-women-should-eat-more-seafood-usda-epa\">tweaking warnings\u003c/a> on mercury and seafood consumption for pregnant and nursing women issued a decade earlier — advice that many Americans outside that demographic had taken to heart, limiting their own seafood consumption.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Industry and government advice over seafood consumption, mercury warnings and health benefits may have improved in recent years, but for new moms like Olbur, the message of what's both safe and healthy for her family is still fairly muddled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's so confusing. When we're pregnant, we're told to eat more fish, but to avoid having too much mercury, and don't eat raw fish like sushi. At some point, you stick your fingers in your ears and just do what you already know,\" she says. \"Nutrition is a confusing topic for everyone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.leschin-hoar.com/\">Clare Leschin-Hoar\u003c/a>\u003cem> is a journalist based in San Diego who covers food policy and sustainability issues.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Americans are often chastised for what we eat. Now we're getting a pat on the back. A new report finds seafood consumption is up by nearly a pound from the previous year, the biggest leap in 20 years.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>San Diego native Megan Olbur didn't grow up eating much seafood beyond tuna sandwiches, fish sticks or the occasional salmon dinners her parents made. But in 2015, when Olbur became pregnant with a daughter of her own, she heeded the advice of her physician and deliberately began adding more seafood to her diet as a way to boost brain development and to ensure the health of her growing baby.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It turns out, she wasn't alone in upping her fish fare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the annual\u003ca href=\"http://www.st.nmfs.noaa.gov/commercial-fisheries/fus/fus15/index\"> Fisheries of the United States Report\u003c/a> released by NOAA last week, Americans increased their seafood consumption to 15.5 pounds of fish and shellfish per person in 2015, up nearly a pound from the previous year, making it the biggest leap in seafood consumption in 20 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's terrific news,\" says Tom Brenna, professor of human nutrition at Cornell University and a member of the 2015 Dietary Guideline Committee. \"We're moving in the right direction.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a rare nutritional pat-on-the-back for Americans, who routinely get chastised over their diets, but the good news comes with some caveats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bump in seafood consumption may mean that we're enjoying four additional seafood meals a year, but we're still only eating about 4.77 ounces of seafood a week. That's better than where we were just a few years ago, but nowhere close to the 8 ounces of seafood per week most of us should be eating according to the most current \u003ca href=\"https://health.gov/dietaryguidelines/2015/guidelines/\">Dietary Guidelines\u003c/a>. (For women who are pregnant, may become pregnant or are breastfeeding, the recommendation is to consume at least 8 ounces and up to 12 ounces of a variety of seafood per week, from choices lower in methylmercury.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And we're still not doing a very good job of getting a variety of seafood into our diets. According to the National Fisheries Institute, shrimp, salmon and tuna continue to dominate the top of their \u003ca href=\"http://www.aboutseafood.com/video_blog/2015-top-ten-list/\">most-consumed seafood list\u003c/a>, just as those tasty species have for the past decade. But even a small uptick in seafood consumption is seen as a boon to public health and is a step in the right direction toward reduced risks of cardiovascular disease and improving the neurodevelopment of children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Any fish is better than none, and any fish is better than fried, empty-calorie junk food,\" says Joe Hibbeln, a researcher with the National Institutes of Health who has studied the effects of fish and omega-3 fatty acids in reducing depression, suicide and violence. Hibbeln says the nutritional value of seafood is so important to health, he'd like to see it served more frequently in the school lunch program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>NOAA doesn't break out individual species or products in its latest report, but Michael Liddel, a statistician with the agency, notes that one-third of the increase in consumption came from canned seafood products, particularly canned salmon. That increase may stem from \u003ca href=\"http://www.fns.usda.gov/tefap/emergency-food-assistance-program-tefap\">The Emergency Food Assistance Program\u003c/a> at the USDA, which purchased more than $40 million in surplus canned Alaskan salmon in \u003ca href=\"http://juneauempire.com/local/2014-09-03/usda-buy-13m-alaska-salmon\">2014\u003c/a> and\u003ca href=\"http://www.alaskapublic.org/2015/08/10/government-to-buy-30m-of-canned-sockeye/\"> 2015\u003c/a> and distributed it to food banks across the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the 15.5 pounds of seafood is worth noting, and makes the U.S. the second-largest consumer of seafood after China (and ahead of Japan), it's still an amount that's dwarfed by our national appetite for chicken and beef. Janet M. Riley, senior vice president at the North American Meat Institute, says Americans ate approximately 59.2 pounds of chicken and 51.7 pounds of beef in 2014 — each more than double our seafood intake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's worth noting that, while NOAA's consumption figures are considered reliable, they're calculated using what's called a \"disappearance\" model. Broadly, that means they add domestic landings and seafood imports together, while subtracting out exports to determine domestic consumption. That's very different than the way the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention looks at consumption through its National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey (NHANES). There, interviews are used to determine what Americans are actually eating, and differences in data may appear. (NHANES data is what the Dietary Guidelines Committee relies on.) But according to CDC officials, analyzed NHANES data from 2015 is not yet available, so we can't compare the numbers with the NOAA finding. Still, Brenna thinks the NOAA figures are a strong sign that consumption is up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what's holding Americans back from reaching the magic number of 8 to 12 ounces of seafood a week?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gavin Gibbons, spokesperson for the National Fisheries Institute, cites \"years of confusing messages over what's sustainable and healthy.\" He has a point. As recently as 2014, the EPA and FDA were \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2014/jun/14/pregnant-women-should-eat-more-seafood-usda-epa\">tweaking warnings\u003c/a> on mercury and seafood consumption for pregnant and nursing women issued a decade earlier — advice that many Americans outside that demographic had taken to heart, limiting their own seafood consumption.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Industry and government advice over seafood consumption, mercury warnings and health benefits may have improved in recent years, but for new moms like Olbur, the message of what's both safe and healthy for her family is still fairly muddled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's so confusing. When we're pregnant, we're told to eat more fish, but to avoid having too much mercury, and don't eat raw fish like sushi. At some point, you stick your fingers in your ears and just do what you already know,\" she says. \"Nutrition is a confusing topic for everyone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.leschin-hoar.com/\">Clare Leschin-Hoar\u003c/a>\u003cem> is a journalist based in San Diego who covers food policy and sustainability issues.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"marketplace": {
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"politicalbreakdown": {
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"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"pri-the-world": {
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"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
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"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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"reveal": {
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"title": "Reveal",
"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
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},
"rightnowish": {
"id": "rightnowish",
"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"order": 16
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},
"science-friday": {
"id": "science-friday",
"title": "Science Friday",
"info": "Science Friday is a weekly science talk show, broadcast live over public radio stations nationwide. Each week, the show focuses on science topics that are in the news and tries to bring an educated, balanced discussion to bear on the scientific issues at hand. Panels of expert guests join host Ira Flatow, a veteran science journalist, to discuss science and to take questions from listeners during the call-in portion of the program.",
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},
"snap-judgment": {
"id": "snap-judgment",
"title": "Snap Judgment",
"tagline": "Real stories with killer beats",
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