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"disqusTitle": "Avery Opens on Fillmore as SF’s Next Elaborate Tasting Menu Destination",
"title": "Avery Opens on Fillmore as SF’s Next Elaborate Tasting Menu Destination",
"headTitle": "New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>San Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The French Laundry has its salmon tartare cornets. Benu wows every guest with lobster coral xiao long bao. Saison presents diners with an ethereal sea urchin-topped slice of grilled bread each evening when the precious uni is in season. Chef Rodney Wages’ showstopper of a dish, simply called ‘tortellini en brodo,’ packs an equally profound wallop in the same rapid series of powerful flavors as those Northern California hall of fame dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126802\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tortellini en brodo at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126802\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tortellini en brodo at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, hold on a second. Wages’ debut full-time restaurant, Avery, was just unveiled to the shark-infested waters of the discerning SF dining public and can’t be and shouldn’t be talked about in the same ways as those world-renowned legends at such a young age. However, that signature dish of his pop-up, R.T.B., lives on as a new and defining few bites and spoonfuls at the pop-up’s brick and mortar personality, Avery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dish is a remarkable creation in the same pleasurable “hammer you over the head with dense, unrelenting luxurious flavors” as those aforementioned tasting menu staples from the Bay Area’s top toques. Wages takes a rustic Bolognese classic and fills the petite-sized tortellini with cultured butter and mushrooms. Then he partners them with brined and smoked foie gras morsels that boast so much of the latter’s intensity you’d swear they were marinated with mezcal. Then the foie gras and tortellini float in a brodo based on garlic skins — a little seasonal California spark. Everything explodes with precise flavors — fat, umami, nuttiness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the pop-up’s days, the dish saw a few different broths, often one based on grilled bacon that really amped up the smoky-rich-meaty profile, but has been tweaked for Avery. It likely will continue to evolve and may even leave the menu tomorrow. Or, it may stay on the menu for decades like Thomas Keller’s salmon cornets. Who knows? Wages is without question a chef and an artist — and artists never settle for anything. This work is just one of several masterpieces diners will encounter in Avery’s opening days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It shouldn’t be too surprising that there is an artistic angle to the restaurant — from Wages’ food on the delicate plates and ceramics procured from all over the world to the pristine, two-level space — because Avery’s namesake is the early to mid 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century American artist, \u003ca href=\"https://www.wikiart.org/en/milton-avery\">Milton Avery\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>R.T.B.’s namesake is the playful abbreviation for Wages’ given nickname from some fellow chefs: “Rod the Bod.” Avery, on the other hand, doesn’t have much of a personal connection. It’s not like Milton Avery is Wages’ artistic idol or that there is some deep meaning that opened his eyes to the world and Avery convinced him to be a chef. Wages and his business partner/Avery’s general manager, Matthew Mako, are fascinated by the artist’s intense color explorations and abstract presentations of nature and see similarities between that and their idea for Avery as an imaginative, high-end fine dining stripped down to a casual, relaxed experience. Plus, Avery is a short and sweet name and starts with “A.” So, there’s that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126931\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k.jpg\" alt=\"Matthew Mako and Chef Rodney Wages and his dog.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2048\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126931\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-160x217.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-800x1084.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-768x1040.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-1020x1382.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-886x1200.jpg 886w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-1180x1598.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-960x1300.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-240x325.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-375x508.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-520x704.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matthew Mako and Chef Rodney Wages and his dog. \u003ccite>(Isabel Baer)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the SF pop-up world, there are chefs who came out of nowhere (Lazy Bear) and then there are the majority of the chefs who have worked their way up the ladder in the region’s best restaurants (Liholiho Yacht Club) and decided it’s time to do their own thing. Wages is squarely in the latter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chef is a native of Kansas and much of his culinary vision can be credited to what is lacking across his home state’s prairies but is abundant in the Bay Area. Wages’ started restaurant cooking (and dishwashing) as a 15-year old in Leavenworth, Kansas, a town best known for its prison that housed Michael Vick for operating a dog-fighting ring and James Earl Ray a decade before he assassinated Martin Luther King Jr.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later in high school, Rodney helped those restaurant owners in Leavenworth open a fried chicken concept one town away and that’s when he acknowledges first seriously catching the cooking bug. He graduated from high school a semester early after seeing a cooking school ad in a newspaper and that led him to the Cordon Bleu school in Minneapolis. An internship at the French Laundry proved to be his golden ticket in the industry, spending four years moving around the kitchen in Yountville under its then-chef de cuisine Corey Lee (now chef-owner of Benu) before Wages left to help open (recently closed) RN74 in San Francisco. Wages credits a dinner that he cooked with Lee in Lee’s native Seoul, South Korea as opening his eyes to the techniques and ingredients of East Asian cuisines that was a key part of R.T.B’s style and now Avery’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wages later joined Lee to open Benu and then delved deeper into East Asian cooking (specifically Japan) as chef de cuisine of Morimoto in Napa. He returned to San Francisco fine dining afterwards at Saison, where his name started popping up on “future chefs to watch” radars in the city after two and a half years at the SoMa fixture. That’s where he picked up a love for live-fire cooking — Saison’s signature style and one that occurs again and again at Avery. The chef briefly left the restaurant world to start his own caviar business but decided that cooking for diners is more of his style than selling to customers. So, it was off to Atelier Crenn for a year as chef de cuisine, where he learned more about the business side of restaurants by helping with communications and operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That can only mean one thing for highly talented San Francisco chefs — next stop: pop-up then permanent restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126798\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new.jpg\" alt=\"Upstairs dining area at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126798\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upstairs dining area at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s staff comes mainly from those final two SF heavyweights on Wages’ resume. Chef de cuisine Kristina Compton was executive sous chef for Wages at Atelier Crenn. Sommelier Daniel Bromberg worked at Les Clos, a now closed wine bar sibling to Saison. Mako was a maître’d at Saison, in addition to working on the opening team at Benu where he met Wages. In short, it’s all in the family of SF tasting menu restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Compared to the likes of Saison, Benu and Atelier Crenn, Avery is a downright bargain. Of course, it’s a pricey night out but it’s not on the same level of credit card blowout as those peers. The “Cello Player” of seven to nine courses is $89 and the “Shades of Spring” featuring 10-15 courses is $189. Don’t worry, the longer menu will change its name each season. Yes, both menus are indeed named for works by Milton Avery. And, if you are seeking that next-level extravagant menu, then there’s always “Avery’s Room,” the private dining room with a $289 special menu for six to eight guests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wages’ cooking falls into the category of lots of ‘kind ofs’ where it’s New American meets contemporary Californian and abstract modernism, with lots of live-fire cooking, some distinct influences from East Asian cuisines and a few hints of European classics tossed in. Confused? Yes, so let’s bypass the labels and sum it up as a deeply personal, highly stylized and very ambitious style of cooking that originates from California’s seasons and covers a wide spectrum of concepts from there, led by live-fire grilling and East Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similar to R.T.B., the menu descriptions are what you might call \u003cem>simple\u003c/em>. There are no shout outs to the farms of Bolinas and in-depth lists of the sauce ingredients. The ‘tortellini en brodo’ is called just that and resides in the middle of both hand-written menus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menus will constantly change but, for now, a broth with grains starts both menus. A few dishes from the longer menu, like ‘caviar,’ ‘jamon Iberico,’ ‘Fort Bragg sea urchin’ and ‘snow beef’ made from Wagyu, are offered as supplements on the $89 menu. Otherwise, they have the same core dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone will enjoy a golden spoonful of smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame. It arrives paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi, that might be sea bream one night and kanpachi on the next night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126776\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new.jpg\" alt=\"Smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126776\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126775\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new.jpg\" alt=\"Paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126775\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oysters and aebleskivers come next. It’s not a natural pairing of two dishes being served together but should be. Each oyster is slightly charred to the point of being raw and smoky, joining grilled asparagus and grilled ramps in a French-inspired white wine broth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126779\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new.jpg\" alt=\"Oysters\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126779\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oysters \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>‘Aebleskivers’ are Danish doughnut holes or beignets, often served in the traditional sphere-shape and adorned with various glazes or stuffed with fillings. For the world’s gastronomic jet set crowd, aebleskivers are known as a photogenic and frequent staple at Noma in Copenhagen, filled with a tiny fish called \u003cem>muikko\u003c/em> with the head and tail poking out both ends. Wages one-ups Redzepi’s aebleskiver creativity with a labor intensive version based on an egg-enriched batter that fluffs up into a shape and consistency like a Parker House roll. It’s filled with diced broccoli that has been blanched in a seaweed broth and grilled with onion butter, then joins garlic puree in the center of the orbs. Then the orbs are topped with garlic mayonnaise, fried shrimp and charred scallions, completing a bread-crispy seafood-mayonnaise trifecta that is as much an example of Japanese takoyaki as it is a stylized Danish doughnut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126778\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new.jpg\" alt=\"Aebleskivers\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126778\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aebleskivers \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jumping from France and Denmark to Southeast Asia, the seafaring dishes continue with a ‘lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil. Again, the seafood of choice is ever so lightly grilled and chopped into minute pieces, ready to be enjoyed spoonful by spoonful with ‘bamboo rice’ and lentils.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new.jpg\" alt=\"'Lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126780\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">'Lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then comes the ‘tortellini en brodo,’ followed by ‘Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline. Lamb from Mendocino comes in two forms — raw tenderloin draped over wild nettles and morel mushrooms; and belly that is heavily charred to the point of almost bacon. Abalone with seaweed and coastal greens rounds out the dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tortellini en brodo\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126782\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tortellini en brodo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new.jpg\" alt=\"Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">'Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s cheese course isn’t just a cart wheeled out and served with compotes and toast. It’s actually a cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison, a bloomy-rind cheese wrapped in spruce bark from the esteemed Jasper Hill Farm in Vermont. ‘Cake’ and an ice cream course (sometimes made with foie gras at R.T.B.) complete the dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126777\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126777\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As mentioned before, Wages’ cooking style doesn’t always showcase East Asia flavors but several dishes do as shown above. On cue, the food’s main drinking partner will be sake from an extensive list created by Bromberg. He is an esteemed sake sommelier who helped launch SF’s go-to sake boutique, TrueSake in Hayes Valley, and even interned at Dassai, a sake brewery in Yamaguchi, Japan. His sake roster opens with 50 labels and will eventually grow to over 100 — a rarity in this city at non-expense account sushi and kaiseki restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126774\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sake in wine cellar at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126774\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sake in wine cellar at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is no better opportunity in San Francisco to explore aged sakes and the whole flavor spectrum of sake — from\u003cem> nama\u003c/em> (unpasteurized) to pure, premium \u003cem>daiginjo\u003c/em> — than what Bromberg presents at Avery, especially if you opt for the sake-only pairing (the same price as the tasting menus). Wine lovers, don’t worry — Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery. Of course, there are also plenty of impressive New World and Old World bottles and glass pours to accompany dinner, along with a mixed drinks (wine, beer, sake and sparkling wine) pairing also for either $89 or $189.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126794\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new.jpg\" alt=\"Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126794\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>R.T.B’s home for the latter stages of its pop-up is now where Avery resides, at a prominent position on Fillmore by Geary that’s mainly known as being the Block of State Bird Provisions. The space previously was another tasting menu restaurant, Mosu, that opened as exclusively a $198 tasting menu and became a gentrification symbol much in the same way as Google buses. Diners (other than \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/When-new-restaurants-push-the-price-too-far-too-8380503.php\">one prominent critic\u003c/a>) felt the food was indeed spectacular (this writer was in that camp) but the space was austere and simple to the point of almost seeming too harsh for appreciating such complex food. Mosu’s chef-owner, Sung Anh, has moved on to open a concept in Seoul and this opportunity presented itself for Wages. There is a definite connection of why this hand off took place so seamlessly compared to most SF restaurant changes. The two worked together at the French Laundry under Corey Lee and Wages considers Sung a mentor. Compton also was a sous chef for Sung during Mosu’s one-year run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco-based designer Noz Nozawa of \u003ca href=\"http://nozdesign.co/xz8dmu6fydhlbarrtb4bhxdv75t6bs\">Noz Design\u003c/a> reinvigorated the Mosu interior, with the help of Wages and Mako, keeping the same semi-hidden upstairs-downstairs set-up that makes the space somewhat quirky and like dining in a loft with bunk bed-style dining rooms. The entryway has no second story, giving off a grand welcome with the frosted floor to ceiling windows streaming in sunlight but blocking out the Fillmore street activity. A screen-like, semi-secret black wall blocks off the ground floor’s ten seats from the door, adding intrigue to the downstairs dining area where the longer tasting menu is served. The screen-like wall rises to the ceiling and also provides a pseudo-hidden feel for the upstairs dining area where 16 diners can enjoy the shorter tasting menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126801\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new.jpg\" alt=\"Downstairs dining area at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126801\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Downstairs dining area at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s two levels are attached by a stairway to the left side of the front door and the immaculate kitchen is attached to the downstairs dining room and appears in clear view with no walls or doors, in the rear of the space. A private dining room, called “Avery’s Room,” is right above the kitchen on the second floor. It’s there that you’ll find some of the wine collection in a gorgeous cellar, ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in a refrigerator, and all sorts of minute design elements like…Corey Lee’s Benu cookbook and some books on Milton Avery paintings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126793\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new.jpg\" alt='Private dining area \"Avery’s Room\" with wine cellar upstairs at Avery' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126793\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Private dining area \"Avery’s Room\" with wine cellar upstairs at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126772\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new.jpg\" alt=\" Ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in refrigerator\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126772\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in a refrigerator \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Much of the interior’s look is inspired by the earth and sea, bringing together bold swaths of charcoal black, teal and deep green that combine for a design motif that does actually seem to be one part ocean, one part forest and one part stark modernism. Chic black banquettes and bare black tables simply adorned with shell-like candle spheres and tiny plants in coral-like miniature pots serve as a contemporary juxtaposition to the retro, almost “Mad Men” era-evoking white chairs with delightfully oversized backs designed by the legendary Italian firm, Calligaris. Soft, gray mohair blankets on the banquettes invite cozying up, which some diners might be tempted by after course eight and the third glass of wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, make sure to look up to appreciate the dramatic light fixtures and the skylight in the Avery room, along with looking down to see the elegant patterned carpeting that can look like tide pools along the coast from certain angles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With all of this design talk, let’s not get ahead of ourselves — the striking interior elements in the two dining spaces are most certainly the custom Venetian plaster wall treatments with murals by \u003ca href=\"http://<a%20href=\" https:>San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes\u003c/a>. They’re so impressive that there is a museum-like label and description of the work in the alcove between the downstairs dining room and the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126795\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new.jpg\" alt=\"Upstairs dining area at Avery with Venetian plaster wall treatments by San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126795\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upstairs dining area at Avery with Venetian plaster wall treatments by San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Growing up in Milwaukee and Orange County, Reyes was inspired by \u003ca href=\"http://www.francis-bacon.com/paintings\">Francis Bacon\u003c/a>’s provocatively dark, yet beautiful works and eventually that led Reyes to become an artist — a graffiti artist, that is. Reyes’ outdoor art and murals really got noticed after his move to San Francisco and a project of painting each letter of the alphabet in the Mission. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since then, he has received lots of attention and praise for his fascinating artistic sense of exploration and pursuit of mystery through breaking down recognizable objects. Like most modern art, everyone will have their own opinion of what the dining room mural is presenting but there’s no doubt that the sweeping brushes of sea blue against the pale plaster call to mind ocean waves (there’s the earth and sea element, again) and a gritty edge to the elegance provided by luxurious glassware and the finest ingredients on the table. Dare we say, it’s almost a little like a work Avery might do?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall, the restaurant’s look is a thrilling, eloquent clash of the unfinished and the refined, the industrial and the polished — something we’ve seen for two decades at bistros, bars and gastropubs and we’re seeing more and more of at higher-end restaurants (see: Benu). Avery has hip hop on the soundtrack, exposed pipes running along the ceiling and plenty of jamon Iberico, foie gras and smoked trout roe for the crowd — yes, the days of Masa’s and Ernie’s are over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are also plans for an investor to bring in an actual Avery painting to be a part of the interior design, so stay tuned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re certainly starting to see culinary art literally work together with visual art. It’s an exciting direction for dining to go towards. Remember, it was Corey Lee who brought an innovative restaurant concept, In Situ, to SF MoMA. Now the roles are reversed — the restaurant welcomes the art museum — or, at least is welcoming the artist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, isn’t the best kind of art the edible kind? Don’t we all wish we could take a bite out of the still lifes by Cézanne? Well, this art at Avery is very edible and each tasting menu is as striking as the restaurant namesake’s portfolio of work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126803\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entryway to Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126803\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entryway to Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://www.averysf.com\">\u003cstrong>Avery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1552 Fillmore St. \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/RTB+Fillmore/@37.7840602,-122.434765,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80858062edd49d5f:0xd5dacdc7799506e!8m2!3d37.784056!4d-122.432571\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94116\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 817-1187\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner Wed–Sun from 5:30pm-9:30pm; closed Monday and Tuesday\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/averyinsf/\">Avery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/avery_sf/\">@avery_sf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$ (tasting menus begin at $89 per person)\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "San Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.",
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"description": "San Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.",
"title": "Avery Opens on Fillmore as SF’s Next Elaborate Tasting Menu Destination | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>San Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The French Laundry has its salmon tartare cornets. Benu wows every guest with lobster coral xiao long bao. Saison presents diners with an ethereal sea urchin-topped slice of grilled bread each evening when the precious uni is in season. Chef Rodney Wages’ showstopper of a dish, simply called ‘tortellini en brodo,’ packs an equally profound wallop in the same rapid series of powerful flavors as those Northern California hall of fame dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126802\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tortellini en brodo at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126802\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tortellini en brodo at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, hold on a second. Wages’ debut full-time restaurant, Avery, was just unveiled to the shark-infested waters of the discerning SF dining public and can’t be and shouldn’t be talked about in the same ways as those world-renowned legends at such a young age. However, that signature dish of his pop-up, R.T.B., lives on as a new and defining few bites and spoonfuls at the pop-up’s brick and mortar personality, Avery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dish is a remarkable creation in the same pleasurable “hammer you over the head with dense, unrelenting luxurious flavors” as those aforementioned tasting menu staples from the Bay Area’s top toques. Wages takes a rustic Bolognese classic and fills the petite-sized tortellini with cultured butter and mushrooms. Then he partners them with brined and smoked foie gras morsels that boast so much of the latter’s intensity you’d swear they were marinated with mezcal. Then the foie gras and tortellini float in a brodo based on garlic skins — a little seasonal California spark. Everything explodes with precise flavors — fat, umami, nuttiness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the pop-up’s days, the dish saw a few different broths, often one based on grilled bacon that really amped up the smoky-rich-meaty profile, but has been tweaked for Avery. It likely will continue to evolve and may even leave the menu tomorrow. Or, it may stay on the menu for decades like Thomas Keller’s salmon cornets. Who knows? Wages is without question a chef and an artist — and artists never settle for anything. This work is just one of several masterpieces diners will encounter in Avery’s opening days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It shouldn’t be too surprising that there is an artistic angle to the restaurant — from Wages’ food on the delicate plates and ceramics procured from all over the world to the pristine, two-level space — because Avery’s namesake is the early to mid 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century American artist, \u003ca href=\"https://www.wikiart.org/en/milton-avery\">Milton Avery\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>R.T.B.’s namesake is the playful abbreviation for Wages’ given nickname from some fellow chefs: “Rod the Bod.” Avery, on the other hand, doesn’t have much of a personal connection. It’s not like Milton Avery is Wages’ artistic idol or that there is some deep meaning that opened his eyes to the world and Avery convinced him to be a chef. Wages and his business partner/Avery’s general manager, Matthew Mako, are fascinated by the artist’s intense color explorations and abstract presentations of nature and see similarities between that and their idea for Avery as an imaginative, high-end fine dining stripped down to a casual, relaxed experience. Plus, Avery is a short and sweet name and starts with “A.” So, there’s that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126931\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k.jpg\" alt=\"Matthew Mako and Chef Rodney Wages and his dog.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2048\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126931\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-160x217.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-800x1084.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-768x1040.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-1020x1382.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-886x1200.jpg 886w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-1180x1598.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-960x1300.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-240x325.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-375x508.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-520x704.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matthew Mako and Chef Rodney Wages and his dog. \u003ccite>(Isabel Baer)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the SF pop-up world, there are chefs who came out of nowhere (Lazy Bear) and then there are the majority of the chefs who have worked their way up the ladder in the region’s best restaurants (Liholiho Yacht Club) and decided it’s time to do their own thing. Wages is squarely in the latter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chef is a native of Kansas and much of his culinary vision can be credited to what is lacking across his home state’s prairies but is abundant in the Bay Area. Wages’ started restaurant cooking (and dishwashing) as a 15-year old in Leavenworth, Kansas, a town best known for its prison that housed Michael Vick for operating a dog-fighting ring and James Earl Ray a decade before he assassinated Martin Luther King Jr.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later in high school, Rodney helped those restaurant owners in Leavenworth open a fried chicken concept one town away and that’s when he acknowledges first seriously catching the cooking bug. He graduated from high school a semester early after seeing a cooking school ad in a newspaper and that led him to the Cordon Bleu school in Minneapolis. An internship at the French Laundry proved to be his golden ticket in the industry, spending four years moving around the kitchen in Yountville under its then-chef de cuisine Corey Lee (now chef-owner of Benu) before Wages left to help open (recently closed) RN74 in San Francisco. Wages credits a dinner that he cooked with Lee in Lee’s native Seoul, South Korea as opening his eyes to the techniques and ingredients of East Asian cuisines that was a key part of R.T.B’s style and now Avery’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wages later joined Lee to open Benu and then delved deeper into East Asian cooking (specifically Japan) as chef de cuisine of Morimoto in Napa. He returned to San Francisco fine dining afterwards at Saison, where his name started popping up on “future chefs to watch” radars in the city after two and a half years at the SoMa fixture. That’s where he picked up a love for live-fire cooking — Saison’s signature style and one that occurs again and again at Avery. The chef briefly left the restaurant world to start his own caviar business but decided that cooking for diners is more of his style than selling to customers. So, it was off to Atelier Crenn for a year as chef de cuisine, where he learned more about the business side of restaurants by helping with communications and operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That can only mean one thing for highly talented San Francisco chefs — next stop: pop-up then permanent restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126798\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new.jpg\" alt=\"Upstairs dining area at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126798\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upstairs dining area at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s staff comes mainly from those final two SF heavyweights on Wages’ resume. Chef de cuisine Kristina Compton was executive sous chef for Wages at Atelier Crenn. Sommelier Daniel Bromberg worked at Les Clos, a now closed wine bar sibling to Saison. Mako was a maître’d at Saison, in addition to working on the opening team at Benu where he met Wages. In short, it’s all in the family of SF tasting menu restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Compared to the likes of Saison, Benu and Atelier Crenn, Avery is a downright bargain. Of course, it’s a pricey night out but it’s not on the same level of credit card blowout as those peers. The “Cello Player” of seven to nine courses is $89 and the “Shades of Spring” featuring 10-15 courses is $189. Don’t worry, the longer menu will change its name each season. Yes, both menus are indeed named for works by Milton Avery. And, if you are seeking that next-level extravagant menu, then there’s always “Avery’s Room,” the private dining room with a $289 special menu for six to eight guests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wages’ cooking falls into the category of lots of ‘kind ofs’ where it’s New American meets contemporary Californian and abstract modernism, with lots of live-fire cooking, some distinct influences from East Asian cuisines and a few hints of European classics tossed in. Confused? Yes, so let’s bypass the labels and sum it up as a deeply personal, highly stylized and very ambitious style of cooking that originates from California’s seasons and covers a wide spectrum of concepts from there, led by live-fire grilling and East Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similar to R.T.B., the menu descriptions are what you might call \u003cem>simple\u003c/em>. There are no shout outs to the farms of Bolinas and in-depth lists of the sauce ingredients. The ‘tortellini en brodo’ is called just that and resides in the middle of both hand-written menus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menus will constantly change but, for now, a broth with grains starts both menus. A few dishes from the longer menu, like ‘caviar,’ ‘jamon Iberico,’ ‘Fort Bragg sea urchin’ and ‘snow beef’ made from Wagyu, are offered as supplements on the $89 menu. Otherwise, they have the same core dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone will enjoy a golden spoonful of smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame. It arrives paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi, that might be sea bream one night and kanpachi on the next night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126776\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new.jpg\" alt=\"Smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126776\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126775\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new.jpg\" alt=\"Paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126775\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oysters and aebleskivers come next. It’s not a natural pairing of two dishes being served together but should be. Each oyster is slightly charred to the point of being raw and smoky, joining grilled asparagus and grilled ramps in a French-inspired white wine broth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126779\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new.jpg\" alt=\"Oysters\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126779\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oysters \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>‘Aebleskivers’ are Danish doughnut holes or beignets, often served in the traditional sphere-shape and adorned with various glazes or stuffed with fillings. For the world’s gastronomic jet set crowd, aebleskivers are known as a photogenic and frequent staple at Noma in Copenhagen, filled with a tiny fish called \u003cem>muikko\u003c/em> with the head and tail poking out both ends. Wages one-ups Redzepi’s aebleskiver creativity with a labor intensive version based on an egg-enriched batter that fluffs up into a shape and consistency like a Parker House roll. It’s filled with diced broccoli that has been blanched in a seaweed broth and grilled with onion butter, then joins garlic puree in the center of the orbs. Then the orbs are topped with garlic mayonnaise, fried shrimp and charred scallions, completing a bread-crispy seafood-mayonnaise trifecta that is as much an example of Japanese takoyaki as it is a stylized Danish doughnut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126778\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new.jpg\" alt=\"Aebleskivers\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126778\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aebleskivers \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jumping from France and Denmark to Southeast Asia, the seafaring dishes continue with a ‘lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil. Again, the seafood of choice is ever so lightly grilled and chopped into minute pieces, ready to be enjoyed spoonful by spoonful with ‘bamboo rice’ and lentils.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new.jpg\" alt=\"'Lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126780\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">'Lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then comes the ‘tortellini en brodo,’ followed by ‘Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline. Lamb from Mendocino comes in two forms — raw tenderloin draped over wild nettles and morel mushrooms; and belly that is heavily charred to the point of almost bacon. Abalone with seaweed and coastal greens rounds out the dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tortellini en brodo\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126782\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tortellini en brodo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new.jpg\" alt=\"Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">'Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s cheese course isn’t just a cart wheeled out and served with compotes and toast. It’s actually a cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison, a bloomy-rind cheese wrapped in spruce bark from the esteemed Jasper Hill Farm in Vermont. ‘Cake’ and an ice cream course (sometimes made with foie gras at R.T.B.) complete the dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126777\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126777\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As mentioned before, Wages’ cooking style doesn’t always showcase East Asia flavors but several dishes do as shown above. On cue, the food’s main drinking partner will be sake from an extensive list created by Bromberg. He is an esteemed sake sommelier who helped launch SF’s go-to sake boutique, TrueSake in Hayes Valley, and even interned at Dassai, a sake brewery in Yamaguchi, Japan. His sake roster opens with 50 labels and will eventually grow to over 100 — a rarity in this city at non-expense account sushi and kaiseki restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126774\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sake in wine cellar at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126774\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sake in wine cellar at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is no better opportunity in San Francisco to explore aged sakes and the whole flavor spectrum of sake — from\u003cem> nama\u003c/em> (unpasteurized) to pure, premium \u003cem>daiginjo\u003c/em> — than what Bromberg presents at Avery, especially if you opt for the sake-only pairing (the same price as the tasting menus). Wine lovers, don’t worry — Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery. Of course, there are also plenty of impressive New World and Old World bottles and glass pours to accompany dinner, along with a mixed drinks (wine, beer, sake and sparkling wine) pairing also for either $89 or $189.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126794\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new.jpg\" alt=\"Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126794\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>R.T.B’s home for the latter stages of its pop-up is now where Avery resides, at a prominent position on Fillmore by Geary that’s mainly known as being the Block of State Bird Provisions. The space previously was another tasting menu restaurant, Mosu, that opened as exclusively a $198 tasting menu and became a gentrification symbol much in the same way as Google buses. Diners (other than \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/When-new-restaurants-push-the-price-too-far-too-8380503.php\">one prominent critic\u003c/a>) felt the food was indeed spectacular (this writer was in that camp) but the space was austere and simple to the point of almost seeming too harsh for appreciating such complex food. Mosu’s chef-owner, Sung Anh, has moved on to open a concept in Seoul and this opportunity presented itself for Wages. There is a definite connection of why this hand off took place so seamlessly compared to most SF restaurant changes. The two worked together at the French Laundry under Corey Lee and Wages considers Sung a mentor. Compton also was a sous chef for Sung during Mosu’s one-year run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco-based designer Noz Nozawa of \u003ca href=\"http://nozdesign.co/xz8dmu6fydhlbarrtb4bhxdv75t6bs\">Noz Design\u003c/a> reinvigorated the Mosu interior, with the help of Wages and Mako, keeping the same semi-hidden upstairs-downstairs set-up that makes the space somewhat quirky and like dining in a loft with bunk bed-style dining rooms. The entryway has no second story, giving off a grand welcome with the frosted floor to ceiling windows streaming in sunlight but blocking out the Fillmore street activity. A screen-like, semi-secret black wall blocks off the ground floor’s ten seats from the door, adding intrigue to the downstairs dining area where the longer tasting menu is served. The screen-like wall rises to the ceiling and also provides a pseudo-hidden feel for the upstairs dining area where 16 diners can enjoy the shorter tasting menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126801\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new.jpg\" alt=\"Downstairs dining area at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126801\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Downstairs dining area at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s two levels are attached by a stairway to the left side of the front door and the immaculate kitchen is attached to the downstairs dining room and appears in clear view with no walls or doors, in the rear of the space. A private dining room, called “Avery’s Room,” is right above the kitchen on the second floor. It’s there that you’ll find some of the wine collection in a gorgeous cellar, ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in a refrigerator, and all sorts of minute design elements like…Corey Lee’s Benu cookbook and some books on Milton Avery paintings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126793\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new.jpg\" alt='Private dining area \"Avery’s Room\" with wine cellar upstairs at Avery' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126793\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Private dining area \"Avery’s Room\" with wine cellar upstairs at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126772\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new.jpg\" alt=\" Ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in refrigerator\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126772\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in a refrigerator \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Much of the interior’s look is inspired by the earth and sea, bringing together bold swaths of charcoal black, teal and deep green that combine for a design motif that does actually seem to be one part ocean, one part forest and one part stark modernism. Chic black banquettes and bare black tables simply adorned with shell-like candle spheres and tiny plants in coral-like miniature pots serve as a contemporary juxtaposition to the retro, almost “Mad Men” era-evoking white chairs with delightfully oversized backs designed by the legendary Italian firm, Calligaris. Soft, gray mohair blankets on the banquettes invite cozying up, which some diners might be tempted by after course eight and the third glass of wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, make sure to look up to appreciate the dramatic light fixtures and the skylight in the Avery room, along with looking down to see the elegant patterned carpeting that can look like tide pools along the coast from certain angles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With all of this design talk, let’s not get ahead of ourselves — the striking interior elements in the two dining spaces are most certainly the custom Venetian plaster wall treatments with murals by \u003ca href=\"http://<a%20href=\" https:>San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes\u003c/a>. They’re so impressive that there is a museum-like label and description of the work in the alcove between the downstairs dining room and the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126795\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new.jpg\" alt=\"Upstairs dining area at Avery with Venetian plaster wall treatments by San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126795\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upstairs dining area at Avery with Venetian plaster wall treatments by San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Growing up in Milwaukee and Orange County, Reyes was inspired by \u003ca href=\"http://www.francis-bacon.com/paintings\">Francis Bacon\u003c/a>’s provocatively dark, yet beautiful works and eventually that led Reyes to become an artist — a graffiti artist, that is. Reyes’ outdoor art and murals really got noticed after his move to San Francisco and a project of painting each letter of the alphabet in the Mission. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since then, he has received lots of attention and praise for his fascinating artistic sense of exploration and pursuit of mystery through breaking down recognizable objects. Like most modern art, everyone will have their own opinion of what the dining room mural is presenting but there’s no doubt that the sweeping brushes of sea blue against the pale plaster call to mind ocean waves (there’s the earth and sea element, again) and a gritty edge to the elegance provided by luxurious glassware and the finest ingredients on the table. Dare we say, it’s almost a little like a work Avery might do?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall, the restaurant’s look is a thrilling, eloquent clash of the unfinished and the refined, the industrial and the polished — something we’ve seen for two decades at bistros, bars and gastropubs and we’re seeing more and more of at higher-end restaurants (see: Benu). Avery has hip hop on the soundtrack, exposed pipes running along the ceiling and plenty of jamon Iberico, foie gras and smoked trout roe for the crowd — yes, the days of Masa’s and Ernie’s are over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are also plans for an investor to bring in an actual Avery painting to be a part of the interior design, so stay tuned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re certainly starting to see culinary art literally work together with visual art. It’s an exciting direction for dining to go towards. Remember, it was Corey Lee who brought an innovative restaurant concept, In Situ, to SF MoMA. Now the roles are reversed — the restaurant welcomes the art museum — or, at least is welcoming the artist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, isn’t the best kind of art the edible kind? Don’t we all wish we could take a bite out of the still lifes by Cézanne? Well, this art at Avery is very edible and each tasting menu is as striking as the restaurant namesake’s portfolio of work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126803\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entryway to Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126803\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entryway to Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://www.averysf.com\">\u003cstrong>Avery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1552 Fillmore St. \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/RTB+Fillmore/@37.7840602,-122.434765,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80858062edd49d5f:0xd5dacdc7799506e!8m2!3d37.784056!4d-122.432571\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94116\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 817-1187\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner Wed–Sun from 5:30pm-9:30pm; closed Monday and Tuesday\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/averyinsf/\">Avery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/avery_sf/\">@avery_sf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$ (tasting menus begin at $89 per person)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Che Fico Opens on Divisadero — Cool Figs, Wood-Fired Chicken and Hot Pizza",
"title": "Che Fico Opens on Divisadero — Cool Figs, Wood-Fired Chicken and Hot Pizza",
"headTitle": "New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Four years in the making, a trio of alums from some of Chicago and New York’s most important restaurants arrive on Divisadero with a chic, lofty Italian spot serving rustic pastas, San Francisco-style pizza, and can’t miss cocktails and desserts.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Walking into the second floor dining room of NoPa’s newly-opened Cal-Ital destination, diners can’t help but think to themselves how cool the design is. They’ll tell themselves, “Wow, what a formidable pizza oven.” Or, “My goodness, that is one long, never-ending communal table.” Perhaps, they’ll even ask themselves, “When was the last time I saw a skylight in a San Francisco restaurant?” However, the most likely initial comment will undoubtedly be “What a fig” because of the ever-photogenic fig tree-printed wallpaper that greets everyone entering \u003ca href=\"http://www.chefico.com/\">Che Fico\u003c/a> (for the record, it’s pronounced like Kay fee-koh).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126247\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new.jpg\" alt=\"Entryway to Che Fico is adorned with fig wallpaper.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126247\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Entryway to Che Fico is adorned with fig wallpaper. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126251\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new.jpg\" alt=\"Communal table inside Che Fico.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126251\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Communal table inside Che Fico. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Well, there are no figs on any plates during the early spring season at this restaurant (sorry, \u003ca href=\"https://archives.sfweekly.com/foodie/2009/10/28/david-chang-sf-reaction-to-fig-gate-retardedly-stupid\">David Chang\u003c/a>) but the fig design motif makes obvious sense because Che Fico does literally translate to “What a fig” in Italian. More appropriately, though, for this chic Italy-via-seasonal California taverna, the phrase also means, “Oh that’s cool” in Italian slang. Indeed, this joint project from a trio of alums who spent significant time working at some of Chicago and New York’s restaurant heavyweights is indeed a really, really cool addition to the Divisadero corridor that just might be SF’s coolest dining neighborhood of the moment. There is a definite “it” factor going on here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126234\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new.jpg\" alt=\"A chef wearing a cool fig-patterned shirt.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126234\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A chef wearing a cool fig-patterned shirt. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Che Fico comes courtesy of chef David Nayfeld, pastry chef Angela Pinkerton and co-owner and partner Matt Brewer. They are rock stars of the restaurant industry without the Instagram-crazy, TV-watching groupie followings that seem to be the defining mark for celebrity chefs and restaurateurs today. Nayfeld grew up in the East Bay and used to hang out in what is now Che Fico’s neighborhood all the time because his mom is a chiropractor at the Fillmore Health Center just a few blocks away. As he likes to sarcastically say now, at least his mother can walk along Divisadero and show all her friends and colleagues that her son may have been up to trouble in the teenage years but it all worked out just fine. His resume is a story unto itself, beginning by stocking vegetables at Paul’s Produce in Alameda as a teenager and making pizzas at a Greek restaurant, then heading to Los Angeles as an 18-year old with no real agenda. He eventually landed at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.ciachef.edu/cia-new-york/\">Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park\u003c/a>, NY and landed coveted externships at Nobu in Manhattan and now-closed Aqua here in San Francisco. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After graduation, one of Aqua’s chefs Peter Armellino (now the chef of \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bncc1teQrf4\">The Plumed Horse\u003c/a> and Pasta Armellino in Saratoga and one of the Bay area’s true pasta maestros) brought Nayfeld back to Aqua as a line cook. From there, Nayfeld’s career touched all over New York, Europe and Las Vegas with stints in the kitchens of some of the world’s great restaurants (Mirazur in the south of France, Frenchie in Paris, Tickets in Barcelona, New York’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.elevenmadisonpark.com/\">Eleven Madison Park\u003c/a>) and the now-closed Cru in New York where chef Shea Gallante’s pasta tasting menus helped give Nayfeld the pasta bug that is very apparent at Che Fico. Basically, Nayfeld’s chef credentials are the culinary equivalent of a Stanford undergraduate degree combined with a Yale law degree. Yes, there is some serious talent here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nayfeld met Pinkerton at Eleven Madison Park (where she won a James Beard award for her exquisite dessert creations) and kept in contact with her when she moved west to help orchestrate the pastries for the Mission’s beloved \u003ca href=\"http://www.craftsman-wolves.com/\">Craftsman and Wolves\u003c/a>. Meanwhile, Brewer comes to the Bay Area via Chicago, where he served as a chef de partie at the much-acclaimed fine dining spot, L2O, and co-founded Hogsalt Hospitality, a restaurant group with a slew of popular, casual-meets-midscale hits (Bavette’s, Au Cheval) in that city à la Hi Neighbor Group (Stones Throw, Trestle) here in San Francisco. Together, it’s a powerful team that mixes fine dining experience with successful trendy, more concepts of the past. The one common trait for the trio is that they all certainly want Che Fico to be unfussy and relaxed. After all, there is fig tree-print wallpaper at the entrance. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don’t get carried away thinking that Che Fico is following the wave of openings in recent months (Souvla, Namu Stonepot, Horsefeather, Sightglass Coffee). Che Fico has been an anticipated opening not just for a year — but for years. The planned was first hatched four years ago and media coverage started shortly thereafter because anytime that “Eleven Madison Park” is attached to a name, it’s automatically a big deal. Unlike many other long-delayed restaurant openings in this city construction-jammed, expensive city, Che Fico wasn’t really delayed. It just wasn’t ready until now and the media attention incorrectly made it seem destined to open long before any realistic date.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nowhere does it say “rustic Cal-Ital” on the trio’s resumes but that is exactly the genre they are working with here, partly out of their love for it and partly because of San Francisco diners’ unwavering adoration for what is basically the city’s unofficial official cuisine. Nayfeld counts \u003ca href=\"http://zunicafe.com/\">Zuni Café\u003c/a> and Che Fico’s neighbor, \u003ca href=\"http://nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>, as his favorite spots in San Francisco. Those two restaurants are beloved by a wide cross-section of San Franciscans for being something for everyone, whether it’s a celebratory blowout dinner or a quick plate of pasta and a cocktail. We’ll have to wait at least a decade to see if he’s found the same recipe for success as those timeless modern legends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you are looking for the Cal-Ital background in the kitchen, it comes notably via Nayfeld’s chef de cuisine, Evan Allumbaugh, who most recently was chef de cuisine at \u003ca href=\"https://www.flourandwater.com/\">Flour + Water\u003c/a>. While that Mission favorite is much more pasta-skewed, Che Fico really does look at the broader picture around the boot from Rome’s Jewish ghetto to Bologna’s hearty and meaty pastas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126266\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new.jpg\" alt=\"Che Fico's chef de cuisine, Evan Allumbaugh.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1377\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126266\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new-160x115.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new-800x574.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new-768x551.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new-1020x732.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new-1180x846.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new-960x689.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new-240x172.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new-375x269.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new-520x373.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Che Fico's chef de cuisine, Evan Allumbaugh. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126239\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new.jpg\" alt=\"Prepping for dinner service at Che Fico.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126239\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prepping for dinner service at Che Fico. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are four primary anchors of Nayfeld’s menu — San Franciso-style pizza (more on what THAT means later), pasta, a trio of wood-roasted large platters, and a section devoted to the Judeo-Roman cooking of Italy, cucina ebraica. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All you really need to know about Nayfeld’s pizza-making at Che Fico is that the name of the dough’s precious sourdough starter (“Loretta”) appears on the façade of the highly specified brick oven made in Naples. Yes, those bricks can handle the heat — they can even handle the heat of Vesuvius according to Nayfeld. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126267\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new.jpg\" alt='\"Loretta\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126267\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Loretta\" \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This San Francisco-style stems from the whole-wheat, ancient grains crust itself, produced like sourdough bread from natural fermentation and yielding a crispy exterior and bubbly-spongy inner texture with the distinctive “crumb” holes that are so coveted by the likes of \u003ca href=\"http://www.joseybakerbread.com/\">Josey Baker\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com/\">Tartine\u003c/a>, but rarely discussed in pizza circles. The style also alludes to the fact that Nayfeld is a certified Neopolitan pizzaiolo but he also loves New York-style slices. Neopolitan pizza can’t be eaten by hand without becoming a taco or a mess. Nayfeld had to take matters into his own hands (literally and figuratively) and adapt the best of Naples, New York and sourdough-made San Francisco for the pies. He also dusts the pizzas with semolina instead of flour, like is sometimes done in this city, to avoid excess charring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126235\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new.jpg\" alt=\"Making the pizze\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126235\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Making the pizze \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126237\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new.jpg\" alt=\"Adding the sauce to the pizze dough\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126237\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Adding the sauce to the pizze dough \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>His half-dozen kinds of pizze ($17-21) range from the funky (pineapple, red onion and fermented chili) to classic (margherita or mushroom and sausage) to salad-like with a pile of arugula hiding marinara sauce and anchovy. There is also a nod to the late, great leader of Zuni Café with the Ode to Judy Rodgers pie, topped simply with marinara and ricotta salata, just like one of the Zuni Café lunch pizza standards. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126273\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new.jpg\" alt=\"Pizze: Marinara, Anchovy, Knoll Farms Arugula.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126273\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pizze: Marinara, Anchovy, Knoll Farms Arugula. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pastas are made in-house, sometimes extruded by machines or rolled out on tables during the afternoon or made by hand. The latter category includes a goat’s milk ricotta gnudi with pomodoro sauce ($19); cavatelli tossed with broccoli ($16); and the Bologna classic, tagliatelle al ragu ($21), where thin strands of al dente dough are lightly coated with a deeply nuanced ground beef compote. Nayfeld also tosses together razor clams and Dungeness crab with biggoli nero ($24), offers a chile-laced rigatoni amatraciana with guanciale and the rarely-seen mafaldini (a thin, curvy and ribbon-like pasta) with hazelnuts and a pesto made of fava beans and preserved Meyer lemons from Warm Springs Ranch, Brewer’s family farm in Sonoma County ($16). It is worth noting that the pastas at Che Fico are priced substantially lower than the average primi at Cal-Ital peers Cotogna and Flour + Water, and half of the price of those at SPQR.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126240\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new.jpg\" alt=\"Weighing housemade pasta\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126240\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Weighing housemade pasta \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126297\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new.jpg\" alt=\"Housemade pasta\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126297\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Housemade pasta \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126277\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tagliatelle al ragu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126277\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tagliatelle al ragu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Outside of fried artichokes as a seasonal appetizer at the Roman-themed Locanda in the Mission, San Franciscans probably only know Italy’s centuries-old Judeo-Roman cuisine from trips to the Eternal City because the guidebooks tell them to try it when in Rome. Che Fico does indeed have those fried artichokes, ready to dip in a lemon aioli ($11), but will also introduce most dinners to the arancini-resembling fried rice and provolone croquettes called suppli ($4 each) and caponata Ebraica a la Rosi ($8), a ratatouille-like concoction of potatoes, peas, olives, peppers, eggplant, golden raisins and walnuts. The cuisine also paid special attention to resurrecting lesser cuts of meat and offal, so diners will find grilled chopped duck liver with onions in various forms ($9); a chicken heart and gizzard salad ($14); and corned veal tongue with salsa verde ($16). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It won’t be easy with a party of less than four to save room for the large portion-only secondi but the massive wood-fired oven in the heart of the kitchen almost demands for tables to comply. A half or whole roast chicken ($27/$48) is another Zuni nod and an early signature dish, accompanied by agrodolce and creamy polenta. The opening secondi roster also features a whole-grilled turbot with collard greens and crispy capers (MP) and a slow-roasted lamb leg with wood-roasted potatoes and watercress salad ($44).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still hungry? Before all of this, diners can enjoy some light antipasti like a half or whole chopped salad ($8/$15), house-pickled giardiniera ($8) that you can’t miss in the preserving jars around the open kitchen or an almost Provençal albacore tuna conserva with caper berries, artichoke, olives and aïoli ($14). Take note that the coppa “sando” starter is currently the only way to try the excellent housemade focaccia ($8). It’s literally a coppa di testa mini-sandwich wedged into a hunk of olive oil-slicked focaccia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126296\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new.jpg\" alt=\"Housemade focaccia\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126296\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Housemade focaccia \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On that cured meat subject, housemade charcuterie is a huge project that Nayfeld is working on, as seen by the charcuterie locker in the dining room and the out-of-sight charcuterie aging in the kitchen’s walk-in. The sad news is that all of the charcuterie isn’t ready yet. Diners need to have patience, though, because great housemade mortadella, nduja and culatello take a lot of time and love in order to become an antipasti. They will come in the months to come. In the meantime, have another pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126246\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new.jpg\" alt=\"The charcuterie locker in the dining room. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126246\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The charcuterie locker in the dining room. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of this food will make you thirsty and that’s where we’re remiss in saying that Nayfeld, Pinkerton and Brewer are the only headliners of this trio. Christopher Longoria is a star in the San Francisco cocktail world thanks to his fantastic drink creations over the years at Polk Street’s 1760, blending elaborate combinations and quirky ingredients with careful balance. At Che Fico, he’s taking dry, often herb-forward Italian libation profiles way, way beyond the Aperol and Negroni sphere. Each cocktail ($14) is named for an herb or simply an elevated classic of the canon, like a Cognac-based milk punch or the chile vodka-forward “Basil” mellowed with eau de vie and Dimmi, a sharp, savory aperitivo. Amaro plays a prominent role in most drinks such as the boozy cold brew-based “Cafe” with Amaro Montenegro, absinthe, sweet vermouth and rum. Meanwhile, Italian pre-dinner classics like limoncello slip into the fold, joining Strega (a liqueur), Cardamaro, lime and black pepper cachaça in the “Pepper.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126257\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new.jpg\" alt='Christopher Longoria preparing a \"Basil.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126257\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Christopher Longoria preparing a \"Basil.\" \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126280\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new.jpg\" alt='Christopher Longoria pouring a \"Basil.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Christopher Longoria pouring a \"Basil\" cocktail. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126261\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1643-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cocktail: Chile vodka-forward “Basil” mellowed with eau de vie and Dimmi.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126261\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1643-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1643-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1643-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1643-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1643-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1643-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1643-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1643-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cocktail: Chile vodka-forward “Basil” mellowed with eau de vie and Dimmi. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On the wine front, Francesca Maniace (Commonwealth) created a strong Italy-centric list with several California favorites involved, as well. About 80% of the 60 or so bottles are below the $100 mark, many of which come from beloved producers of all ages with cult followings like Produttori del Barbaresco or Matthisasson and Massican of California. With such tempting wines and cocktails — and the food to sop up a few rounds of them — it’s great to see that Che Fico will be open until 1am on Fridays and Saturdays, following in the late night footsteps of the NoPa neighborhood’s restaurant namesake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Che Fico’s design is by the Oakland–based firm of architect Jon de la Cruz, DLC ID, and the gorgeous layout and subtle details go well beyond the figs. The main feature of the 120-seat space is just that — it’s big and spacious with an open, loft-like feel similar to a small cathedral but actually hails from its prior incarnation as an auto body shop. That auto body shop has shifted into an assortment of contemporary elements (raw wood, lots of tile, Italian marble chef’s counter overlooking the kitchen, giant communal table) mingling with old-school red sauce joints (plush red leather booths, dim lighting) and an Instagram-ready glow in the daytime when sunlight streams in through a pair of skylights and the side windows overlooking Divisadero. Heck, everything here is gorgeous, detailed and cheery — already filtered and ready for photo-sharing in the same way SF’s hippest atmospheric restaurants are like Liholiho Yacht Club and Leo’s Oyster Bar. Not surprisingly, the latter is a DLC ID design. James Beard voters might as well already put Che Fico into the semifinalist round for the 2019 Best Design awards. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126249\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new.jpg\" alt=\"Che Fico interior overlooking Divisidero Street\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126249\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Che Fico interior overlooking Divisidero Street \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Roughly a third of the tables and all bar spots at Che Fico’s 15-seat zinc topped bar by the entrance will be set aside for walk-ins. There is also a private dining room for 16 with a table made of a Valley Oak tree from the Brewer’s family farm. The private dining room also has more quirky wallpaper but, this time, it’s a colorful print of Italian pop singer Adriano Celentano’s record albums. Nayfeld’s parents used to play his music all the time as their first taste of uncensored music after leaving communist Russia. The bathrooms have both the same wallpaper in black and white and Celentano’s music playing constantly. It’s a great way to make sure nobody will linger too long there…\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126268\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new.jpg\" alt=\"Private dining room adorned with Italian pop singer Adriano Celentano’s record albums.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126268\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Private dining room adorned with Italian pop singer Adriano Celentano’s record albums. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With all of this interior talk, it’s impossible to forget the single most striking design feature. Yes, it’s the exterior sign where a local company made Che Fico’s sign and nestled it into the retro arrow sign that the auto body shop had. And, no, the restaurant is not allowed to turn on the lights per neighborhood rules. As far as marquees of San Francisco, this one isn’t quite the Castro Theater but isn’t too far behind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126250\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new.jpg\" alt=\"The cool Che Fico sign.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126250\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The cool Che Fico sign. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Don’t think for a moment that we skipped dessert. Nayfeld purposely bypassed yeast for his pizza crust because that’s a key ingredient in making heavy pizza slices sit like bricks in diners’ stomachs — but chances are the table will be slowing down once the dessert menu arrives. Pinkerton is truly one of the country’s most gifted pastry chefs. Using Bay Area seasonal fruit and Italy’s more dense-style of pastries as a template, it’s a thrill for Bay Area diners to see her producing the likes of wood-fired citrus crostata ($16 and serves two) or an olive oil cake with roasted strawberry vinaigrette ($12). The showstopper, without question, is the bittersweet chocolate budino ($13) with a host of textural contrasts ranging from crunchy salt and pepper walnuts to a silky salted caramel gelato to a hefty pour of olive oil as a finishing, assertive touch. For more gelato fun, by the way, diners can finish with scoops of house-churned gelato in flavors like malted yogurt or strawberry rhubarb sorbetto ($4 for one scoop). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126253\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new.jpg\" alt=\"Pastry chef Angela Pinkerton delivers the amazing bittersweet chocolate budino.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126253\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pastry chef Angela Pinkerton delivers the amazing bittersweet chocolate budino. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126254\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new.jpg\" alt=\"Che Fico's bittersweet chocolate budino.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126254\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Che Fico's bittersweet chocolate budino. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With the last spoonful of budino gone, don’t despair, there is still more to come — in the coming year ahead. When a restaurant waited as long as an entire Summer Olympics or presidential election cycle to open, patience is dearly important. There is the aforementioned housemade charcuterie to wait for. There will also be Pinkerton’s ground-level luncheonette-evoking concept called “Theorita,” where pastries, pies and lunch favorites in the daytime will evolve into Nayfeld’s adaptations of Americana classics for dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco diners are obviously more than excited that Che Fico finally is here and surely the reservations and walk-in seats will be filled from happy hour until late night for the foreseeable future. Sure, it’s another pasta and pizza spot in this pasta and pizza-mad city. But it also isn’t — they’re just one of many components to the whole experience. In Nayfeld’s eyes, this is “noble food” that requires painstaking “craftsmanship.” He’s right. This is home-cooking that nobody, or at least most of us non-professional chefs, can come close to replicating. It’s bringing together one of the world’s most treasured cuisines with the ingredients of the world’s most produce-friendly climate and having fun in the process with a few cocktails. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh that’s cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chefico.com/\">\u003cstrong>Che Fico\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n838 Divisadero St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94117\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 416-6959\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner Tue-Thu 5:30pm-11pm, Fri-Sat 5:30pm-1am; closed Sunday and Monday\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ChefDavidNayfeld/\">Chef David Nayfeld\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/DavidNayfeld\">@DavidNayfeld\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chefico/\">@chefico\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$ (most dishes $16-$20)\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Four years in the making, a trio of alums from some of Chicago and New York’s most important restaurants arrive on Divisadero with a chic, lofty Italian spot serving rustic pastas, San Francisco-style pizza, and can’t miss cocktails and desserts.",
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"description": "Four years in the making, a trio of alums from some of Chicago and New York’s most important restaurants arrive on Divisadero with a chic, lofty Italian spot serving rustic pastas, San Francisco-style pizza, and can’t miss cocktails and desserts.",
"title": "Che Fico Opens on Divisadero — Cool Figs, Wood-Fired Chicken and Hot Pizza | KQED",
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"headline": "Che Fico Opens on Divisadero — Cool Figs, Wood-Fired Chicken and Hot Pizza",
"datePublished": "2018-03-30T12:28:04-07:00",
"dateModified": "2018-06-28T23:02:28-07:00",
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"slug": "che-fico-opens-on-divisadero-cool-figs-wood-fired-chicken-and-hot-pizza",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Four years in the making, a trio of alums from some of Chicago and New York’s most important restaurants arrive on Divisadero with a chic, lofty Italian spot serving rustic pastas, San Francisco-style pizza, and can’t miss cocktails and desserts.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Walking into the second floor dining room of NoPa’s newly-opened Cal-Ital destination, diners can’t help but think to themselves how cool the design is. They’ll tell themselves, “Wow, what a formidable pizza oven.” Or, “My goodness, that is one long, never-ending communal table.” Perhaps, they’ll even ask themselves, “When was the last time I saw a skylight in a San Francisco restaurant?” However, the most likely initial comment will undoubtedly be “What a fig” because of the ever-photogenic fig tree-printed wallpaper that greets everyone entering \u003ca href=\"http://www.chefico.com/\">Che Fico\u003c/a> (for the record, it’s pronounced like Kay fee-koh).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126247\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new.jpg\" alt=\"Entryway to Che Fico is adorned with fig wallpaper.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126247\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1486-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Entryway to Che Fico is adorned with fig wallpaper. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126251\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new.jpg\" alt=\"Communal table inside Che Fico.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126251\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1511-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Communal table inside Che Fico. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Well, there are no figs on any plates during the early spring season at this restaurant (sorry, \u003ca href=\"https://archives.sfweekly.com/foodie/2009/10/28/david-chang-sf-reaction-to-fig-gate-retardedly-stupid\">David Chang\u003c/a>) but the fig design motif makes obvious sense because Che Fico does literally translate to “What a fig” in Italian. More appropriately, though, for this chic Italy-via-seasonal California taverna, the phrase also means, “Oh that’s cool” in Italian slang. Indeed, this joint project from a trio of alums who spent significant time working at some of Chicago and New York’s restaurant heavyweights is indeed a really, really cool addition to the Divisadero corridor that just might be SF’s coolest dining neighborhood of the moment. There is a definite “it” factor going on here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126234\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new.jpg\" alt=\"A chef wearing a cool fig-patterned shirt.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126234\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1198-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A chef wearing a cool fig-patterned shirt. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Che Fico comes courtesy of chef David Nayfeld, pastry chef Angela Pinkerton and co-owner and partner Matt Brewer. They are rock stars of the restaurant industry without the Instagram-crazy, TV-watching groupie followings that seem to be the defining mark for celebrity chefs and restaurateurs today. Nayfeld grew up in the East Bay and used to hang out in what is now Che Fico’s neighborhood all the time because his mom is a chiropractor at the Fillmore Health Center just a few blocks away. As he likes to sarcastically say now, at least his mother can walk along Divisadero and show all her friends and colleagues that her son may have been up to trouble in the teenage years but it all worked out just fine. His resume is a story unto itself, beginning by stocking vegetables at Paul’s Produce in Alameda as a teenager and making pizzas at a Greek restaurant, then heading to Los Angeles as an 18-year old with no real agenda. He eventually landed at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.ciachef.edu/cia-new-york/\">Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park\u003c/a>, NY and landed coveted externships at Nobu in Manhattan and now-closed Aqua here in San Francisco. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After graduation, one of Aqua’s chefs Peter Armellino (now the chef of \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bncc1teQrf4\">The Plumed Horse\u003c/a> and Pasta Armellino in Saratoga and one of the Bay area’s true pasta maestros) brought Nayfeld back to Aqua as a line cook. From there, Nayfeld’s career touched all over New York, Europe and Las Vegas with stints in the kitchens of some of the world’s great restaurants (Mirazur in the south of France, Frenchie in Paris, Tickets in Barcelona, New York’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.elevenmadisonpark.com/\">Eleven Madison Park\u003c/a>) and the now-closed Cru in New York where chef Shea Gallante’s pasta tasting menus helped give Nayfeld the pasta bug that is very apparent at Che Fico. Basically, Nayfeld’s chef credentials are the culinary equivalent of a Stanford undergraduate degree combined with a Yale law degree. Yes, there is some serious talent here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nayfeld met Pinkerton at Eleven Madison Park (where she won a James Beard award for her exquisite dessert creations) and kept in contact with her when she moved west to help orchestrate the pastries for the Mission’s beloved \u003ca href=\"http://www.craftsman-wolves.com/\">Craftsman and Wolves\u003c/a>. Meanwhile, Brewer comes to the Bay Area via Chicago, where he served as a chef de partie at the much-acclaimed fine dining spot, L2O, and co-founded Hogsalt Hospitality, a restaurant group with a slew of popular, casual-meets-midscale hits (Bavette’s, Au Cheval) in that city à la Hi Neighbor Group (Stones Throw, Trestle) here in San Francisco. Together, it’s a powerful team that mixes fine dining experience with successful trendy, more concepts of the past. The one common trait for the trio is that they all certainly want Che Fico to be unfussy and relaxed. After all, there is fig tree-print wallpaper at the entrance. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don’t get carried away thinking that Che Fico is following the wave of openings in recent months (Souvla, Namu Stonepot, Horsefeather, Sightglass Coffee). Che Fico has been an anticipated opening not just for a year — but for years. The planned was first hatched four years ago and media coverage started shortly thereafter because anytime that “Eleven Madison Park” is attached to a name, it’s automatically a big deal. Unlike many other long-delayed restaurant openings in this city construction-jammed, expensive city, Che Fico wasn’t really delayed. It just wasn’t ready until now and the media attention incorrectly made it seem destined to open long before any realistic date.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nowhere does it say “rustic Cal-Ital” on the trio’s resumes but that is exactly the genre they are working with here, partly out of their love for it and partly because of San Francisco diners’ unwavering adoration for what is basically the city’s unofficial official cuisine. Nayfeld counts \u003ca href=\"http://zunicafe.com/\">Zuni Café\u003c/a> and Che Fico’s neighbor, \u003ca href=\"http://nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>, as his favorite spots in San Francisco. Those two restaurants are beloved by a wide cross-section of San Franciscans for being something for everyone, whether it’s a celebratory blowout dinner or a quick plate of pasta and a cocktail. We’ll have to wait at least a decade to see if he’s found the same recipe for success as those timeless modern legends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you are looking for the Cal-Ital background in the kitchen, it comes notably via Nayfeld’s chef de cuisine, Evan Allumbaugh, who most recently was chef de cuisine at \u003ca href=\"https://www.flourandwater.com/\">Flour + Water\u003c/a>. While that Mission favorite is much more pasta-skewed, Che Fico really does look at the broader picture around the boot from Rome’s Jewish ghetto to Bologna’s hearty and meaty pastas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126266\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new.jpg\" alt=\"Che Fico's chef de cuisine, Evan Allumbaugh.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1377\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126266\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new-160x115.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new-800x574.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new-768x551.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new-1020x732.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new-1180x846.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new-960x689.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new-240x172.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new-375x269.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2025-new-520x373.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Che Fico's chef de cuisine, Evan Allumbaugh. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126239\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new.jpg\" alt=\"Prepping for dinner service at Che Fico.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126239\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1221-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prepping for dinner service at Che Fico. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are four primary anchors of Nayfeld’s menu — San Franciso-style pizza (more on what THAT means later), pasta, a trio of wood-roasted large platters, and a section devoted to the Judeo-Roman cooking of Italy, cucina ebraica. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All you really need to know about Nayfeld’s pizza-making at Che Fico is that the name of the dough’s precious sourdough starter (“Loretta”) appears on the façade of the highly specified brick oven made in Naples. Yes, those bricks can handle the heat — they can even handle the heat of Vesuvius according to Nayfeld. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126267\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new.jpg\" alt='\"Loretta\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126267\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2035-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Loretta\" \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This San Francisco-style stems from the whole-wheat, ancient grains crust itself, produced like sourdough bread from natural fermentation and yielding a crispy exterior and bubbly-spongy inner texture with the distinctive “crumb” holes that are so coveted by the likes of \u003ca href=\"http://www.joseybakerbread.com/\">Josey Baker\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com/\">Tartine\u003c/a>, but rarely discussed in pizza circles. The style also alludes to the fact that Nayfeld is a certified Neopolitan pizzaiolo but he also loves New York-style slices. Neopolitan pizza can’t be eaten by hand without becoming a taco or a mess. Nayfeld had to take matters into his own hands (literally and figuratively) and adapt the best of Naples, New York and sourdough-made San Francisco for the pies. He also dusts the pizzas with semolina instead of flour, like is sometimes done in this city, to avoid excess charring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126235\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new.jpg\" alt=\"Making the pizze\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126235\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1199-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Making the pizze \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126237\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new.jpg\" alt=\"Adding the sauce to the pizze dough\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126237\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1208-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Adding the sauce to the pizze dough \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>His half-dozen kinds of pizze ($17-21) range from the funky (pineapple, red onion and fermented chili) to classic (margherita or mushroom and sausage) to salad-like with a pile of arugula hiding marinara sauce and anchovy. There is also a nod to the late, great leader of Zuni Café with the Ode to Judy Rodgers pie, topped simply with marinara and ricotta salata, just like one of the Zuni Café lunch pizza standards. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126273\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new.jpg\" alt=\"Pizze: Marinara, Anchovy, Knoll Farms Arugula.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126273\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2161-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pizze: Marinara, Anchovy, Knoll Farms Arugula. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pastas are made in-house, sometimes extruded by machines or rolled out on tables during the afternoon or made by hand. The latter category includes a goat’s milk ricotta gnudi with pomodoro sauce ($19); cavatelli tossed with broccoli ($16); and the Bologna classic, tagliatelle al ragu ($21), where thin strands of al dente dough are lightly coated with a deeply nuanced ground beef compote. Nayfeld also tosses together razor clams and Dungeness crab with biggoli nero ($24), offers a chile-laced rigatoni amatraciana with guanciale and the rarely-seen mafaldini (a thin, curvy and ribbon-like pasta) with hazelnuts and a pesto made of fava beans and preserved Meyer lemons from Warm Springs Ranch, Brewer’s family farm in Sonoma County ($16). It is worth noting that the pastas at Che Fico are priced substantially lower than the average primi at Cal-Ital peers Cotogna and Flour + Water, and half of the price of those at SPQR.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126240\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new.jpg\" alt=\"Weighing housemade pasta\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126240\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1284-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Weighing housemade pasta \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126297\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new.jpg\" alt=\"Housemade pasta\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126297\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1945-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Housemade pasta \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126277\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tagliatelle al ragu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126277\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2256-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tagliatelle al ragu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Outside of fried artichokes as a seasonal appetizer at the Roman-themed Locanda in the Mission, San Franciscans probably only know Italy’s centuries-old Judeo-Roman cuisine from trips to the Eternal City because the guidebooks tell them to try it when in Rome. Che Fico does indeed have those fried artichokes, ready to dip in a lemon aioli ($11), but will also introduce most dinners to the arancini-resembling fried rice and provolone croquettes called suppli ($4 each) and caponata Ebraica a la Rosi ($8), a ratatouille-like concoction of potatoes, peas, olives, peppers, eggplant, golden raisins and walnuts. The cuisine also paid special attention to resurrecting lesser cuts of meat and offal, so diners will find grilled chopped duck liver with onions in various forms ($9); a chicken heart and gizzard salad ($14); and corned veal tongue with salsa verde ($16). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It won’t be easy with a party of less than four to save room for the large portion-only secondi but the massive wood-fired oven in the heart of the kitchen almost demands for tables to comply. A half or whole roast chicken ($27/$48) is another Zuni nod and an early signature dish, accompanied by agrodolce and creamy polenta. The opening secondi roster also features a whole-grilled turbot with collard greens and crispy capers (MP) and a slow-roasted lamb leg with wood-roasted potatoes and watercress salad ($44).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still hungry? Before all of this, diners can enjoy some light antipasti like a half or whole chopped salad ($8/$15), house-pickled giardiniera ($8) that you can’t miss in the preserving jars around the open kitchen or an almost Provençal albacore tuna conserva with caper berries, artichoke, olives and aïoli ($14). Take note that the coppa “sando” starter is currently the only way to try the excellent housemade focaccia ($8). It’s literally a coppa di testa mini-sandwich wedged into a hunk of olive oil-slicked focaccia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126296\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new.jpg\" alt=\"Housemade focaccia\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126296\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1991-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Housemade focaccia \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On that cured meat subject, housemade charcuterie is a huge project that Nayfeld is working on, as seen by the charcuterie locker in the dining room and the out-of-sight charcuterie aging in the kitchen’s walk-in. The sad news is that all of the charcuterie isn’t ready yet. Diners need to have patience, though, because great housemade mortadella, nduja and culatello take a lot of time and love in order to become an antipasti. They will come in the months to come. In the meantime, have another pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126246\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new.jpg\" alt=\"The charcuterie locker in the dining room. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126246\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1484-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The charcuterie locker in the dining room. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of this food will make you thirsty and that’s where we’re remiss in saying that Nayfeld, Pinkerton and Brewer are the only headliners of this trio. Christopher Longoria is a star in the San Francisco cocktail world thanks to his fantastic drink creations over the years at Polk Street’s 1760, blending elaborate combinations and quirky ingredients with careful balance. At Che Fico, he’s taking dry, often herb-forward Italian libation profiles way, way beyond the Aperol and Negroni sphere. Each cocktail ($14) is named for an herb or simply an elevated classic of the canon, like a Cognac-based milk punch or the chile vodka-forward “Basil” mellowed with eau de vie and Dimmi, a sharp, savory aperitivo. Amaro plays a prominent role in most drinks such as the boozy cold brew-based “Cafe” with Amaro Montenegro, absinthe, sweet vermouth and rum. Meanwhile, Italian pre-dinner classics like limoncello slip into the fold, joining Strega (a liqueur), Cardamaro, lime and black pepper cachaça in the “Pepper.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126257\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new.jpg\" alt='Christopher Longoria preparing a \"Basil.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126257\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1582-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Christopher Longoria preparing a \"Basil.\" \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126280\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new.jpg\" alt='Christopher Longoria pouring a \"Basil.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2282-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Christopher Longoria pouring a \"Basil\" cocktail. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126261\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1643-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cocktail: Chile vodka-forward “Basil” mellowed with eau de vie and Dimmi.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126261\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1643-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1643-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1643-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1643-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1643-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1643-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1643-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1643-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cocktail: Chile vodka-forward “Basil” mellowed with eau de vie and Dimmi. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On the wine front, Francesca Maniace (Commonwealth) created a strong Italy-centric list with several California favorites involved, as well. About 80% of the 60 or so bottles are below the $100 mark, many of which come from beloved producers of all ages with cult followings like Produttori del Barbaresco or Matthisasson and Massican of California. With such tempting wines and cocktails — and the food to sop up a few rounds of them — it’s great to see that Che Fico will be open until 1am on Fridays and Saturdays, following in the late night footsteps of the NoPa neighborhood’s restaurant namesake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Che Fico’s design is by the Oakland–based firm of architect Jon de la Cruz, DLC ID, and the gorgeous layout and subtle details go well beyond the figs. The main feature of the 120-seat space is just that — it’s big and spacious with an open, loft-like feel similar to a small cathedral but actually hails from its prior incarnation as an auto body shop. That auto body shop has shifted into an assortment of contemporary elements (raw wood, lots of tile, Italian marble chef’s counter overlooking the kitchen, giant communal table) mingling with old-school red sauce joints (plush red leather booths, dim lighting) and an Instagram-ready glow in the daytime when sunlight streams in through a pair of skylights and the side windows overlooking Divisadero. Heck, everything here is gorgeous, detailed and cheery — already filtered and ready for photo-sharing in the same way SF’s hippest atmospheric restaurants are like Liholiho Yacht Club and Leo’s Oyster Bar. Not surprisingly, the latter is a DLC ID design. James Beard voters might as well already put Che Fico into the semifinalist round for the 2019 Best Design awards. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126249\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new.jpg\" alt=\"Che Fico interior overlooking Divisidero Street\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126249\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1488-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Che Fico interior overlooking Divisidero Street \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Roughly a third of the tables and all bar spots at Che Fico’s 15-seat zinc topped bar by the entrance will be set aside for walk-ins. There is also a private dining room for 16 with a table made of a Valley Oak tree from the Brewer’s family farm. The private dining room also has more quirky wallpaper but, this time, it’s a colorful print of Italian pop singer Adriano Celentano’s record albums. Nayfeld’s parents used to play his music all the time as their first taste of uncensored music after leaving communist Russia. The bathrooms have both the same wallpaper in black and white and Celentano’s music playing constantly. It’s a great way to make sure nobody will linger too long there…\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126268\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new.jpg\" alt=\"Private dining room adorned with Italian pop singer Adriano Celentano’s record albums.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126268\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_2069-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Private dining room adorned with Italian pop singer Adriano Celentano’s record albums. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With all of this interior talk, it’s impossible to forget the single most striking design feature. Yes, it’s the exterior sign where a local company made Che Fico’s sign and nestled it into the retro arrow sign that the auto body shop had. And, no, the restaurant is not allowed to turn on the lights per neighborhood rules. As far as marquees of San Francisco, this one isn’t quite the Castro Theater but isn’t too far behind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126250\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new.jpg\" alt=\"The cool Che Fico sign.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126250\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1505-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The cool Che Fico sign. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Don’t think for a moment that we skipped dessert. Nayfeld purposely bypassed yeast for his pizza crust because that’s a key ingredient in making heavy pizza slices sit like bricks in diners’ stomachs — but chances are the table will be slowing down once the dessert menu arrives. Pinkerton is truly one of the country’s most gifted pastry chefs. Using Bay Area seasonal fruit and Italy’s more dense-style of pastries as a template, it’s a thrill for Bay Area diners to see her producing the likes of wood-fired citrus crostata ($16 and serves two) or an olive oil cake with roasted strawberry vinaigrette ($12). The showstopper, without question, is the bittersweet chocolate budino ($13) with a host of textural contrasts ranging from crunchy salt and pepper walnuts to a silky salted caramel gelato to a hefty pour of olive oil as a finishing, assertive touch. For more gelato fun, by the way, diners can finish with scoops of house-churned gelato in flavors like malted yogurt or strawberry rhubarb sorbetto ($4 for one scoop). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126253\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new.jpg\" alt=\"Pastry chef Angela Pinkerton delivers the amazing bittersweet chocolate budino.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126253\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1515-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pastry chef Angela Pinkerton delivers the amazing bittersweet chocolate budino. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126254\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new.jpg\" alt=\"Che Fico's bittersweet chocolate budino.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126254\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1519-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Che Fico's bittersweet chocolate budino. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With the last spoonful of budino gone, don’t despair, there is still more to come — in the coming year ahead. When a restaurant waited as long as an entire Summer Olympics or presidential election cycle to open, patience is dearly important. There is the aforementioned housemade charcuterie to wait for. There will also be Pinkerton’s ground-level luncheonette-evoking concept called “Theorita,” where pastries, pies and lunch favorites in the daytime will evolve into Nayfeld’s adaptations of Americana classics for dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco diners are obviously more than excited that Che Fico finally is here and surely the reservations and walk-in seats will be filled from happy hour until late night for the foreseeable future. Sure, it’s another pasta and pizza spot in this pasta and pizza-mad city. But it also isn’t — they’re just one of many components to the whole experience. In Nayfeld’s eyes, this is “noble food” that requires painstaking “craftsmanship.” He’s right. This is home-cooking that nobody, or at least most of us non-professional chefs, can come close to replicating. It’s bringing together one of the world’s most treasured cuisines with the ingredients of the world’s most produce-friendly climate and having fun in the process with a few cocktails. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh that’s cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chefico.com/\">\u003cstrong>Che Fico\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n838 Divisadero St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94117\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 416-6959\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner Tue-Thu 5:30pm-11pm, Fri-Sat 5:30pm-1am; closed Sunday and Monday\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ChefDavidNayfeld/\">Chef David Nayfeld\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/DavidNayfeld\">@DavidNayfeld\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chefico/\">@chefico\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$ (most dishes $16-$20)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
"airtime": "SUN 9pm-10pm",
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"meta": {
"site": "radio",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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}
},
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"id": "forum",
"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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"id": "freakonomics-radio",
"title": "Freakonomics Radio",
"info": "Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. It is produced in partnership with WNYC.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
"airtime": "SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
"subscribe": {
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
"rss": "https://feeds.feedburner.com/freakonomicsradio"
}
},
"fresh-air": {
"id": "fresh-air",
"title": "Fresh Air",
"info": "Hosted by Terry Gross, \u003cem>Fresh Air from WHYY\u003c/em> is the Peabody Award-winning weekday magazine of contemporary arts and issues. One of public radio's most popular programs, Fresh Air features intimate conversations with today's biggest luminaries.",
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"link": "/radio/program/fresh-air",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/381444908/podcast.xml"
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"id": "here-and-now",
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510051/podcast.xml"
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},
"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
"title": "Hidden Brain",
"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/05/hiddenbrain.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/series/423302056/hidden-brain",
"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
"subscribe": {
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"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/Science-Podcasts/Hidden-Brain-p787503/",
"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510308/podcast.xml"
}
},
"how-i-built-this": {
"id": "how-i-built-this",
"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/howIBuiltThis.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this",
"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
"subscribe": {
"npr": "https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/3zxy",
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510313/podcast.xml"
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},
"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
"imageAlt": "KQED Hyphenación",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
"meta": {
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"order": 15
},
"link": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/2p3Fifq96nw9BPcmFdIq0o?si=39209f7b25774f38",
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"amazon": "https://music.amazon.com/podcasts/6c3dd23c-93fb-4aab-97ba-1725fa6315f1/hyphenaci%C3%B3n",
"rss": "https://feeds.megaphone.fm/KQINC2275451163"
}
},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
"meta": {
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"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/id1492194549",
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}
},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
"subscribe": {
"npr": "https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/xtTd",
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
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"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
}
},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Masters-of-Scale-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "http://mastersofscale.app.link/",
"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
"npr": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast",
"stitcher": "https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
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"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "On Our Watch from NPR and KQED",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "kqed",
"order": 11
},
"link": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1567098962",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw",
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"stitcher": "https://www.stitcher.com/show/on-our-watch",
"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510360/podcast.xml"
}
},
"on-the-media": {
"id": "on-the-media",
"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm-3pm, MON 12am-1am",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/onTheMedia.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.wnycstudios.org/shows/otm",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "wnyc"
},
"link": "/radio/program/on-the-media",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/on-the-media/id73330715?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/On-the-Media-p69/",
"rss": "http://feeds.wnyc.org/onthemedia"
}
},
"pbs-newshour": {
"id": "pbs-newshour",
"title": "PBS NewsHour",
"info": "Analysis, background reports and updates from the PBS NewsHour putting today's news in context.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "pbs"
},
"link": "/radio/program/pbs-newshour",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/pbs-newshour-full-show/id394432287?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/",
"rss": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/feeds/rss/podcasts/show"
}
},
"perspectives": {
"id": "perspectives",
"title": "Perspectives",
"tagline": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991",
"info": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/Perspectives_Tile_Final.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Perspectives",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/perspectives/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 14
},
"link": "/perspectives",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/id73801135",
"npr": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432309616/perspectives",
"rss": "https://ww2.kqed.org/perspectives/category/perspectives/feed/",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvcGVyc3BlY3RpdmVzL2NhdGVnb3J5L3BlcnNwZWN0aXZlcy9mZWVkLw"
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},
"planet-money": {
"id": "planet-money",
"title": "Planet Money",
"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
"airtime": "SUN 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/planetmoney.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/sections/money/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/planet-money",
"subscribe": {
"npr": "https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/M4f5",
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/planet-money/id290783428?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/Business--Economics-Podcasts/Planet-Money-p164680/",
"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510289/podcast.xml"
}
},
"politicalbreakdown": {
"id": "politicalbreakdown",
"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Political-Breakdown-2024-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Political Breakdown",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/politicalbreakdown",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "kqed",
"order": 5
},
"link": "/podcasts/politicalbreakdown",
"subscribe": {
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"amazon": "https://music.amazon.com/podcasts/e0c2d153-ad36-4c8d-901d-f1da6a724824/political-breakdown",
"npr": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/572155894/political-breakdown",
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