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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/isointro560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/isointro560.jpg\" alt=\"Iso Rabins\" title=\"Iso Rabins\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40860\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/\">forageSF\u003c/a> founder Iso Rabins. All photos courtesy forageSF.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nBorn in Santa Cruz and raised on the East Coast, Iso Rabins always knew he wanted to return to California after college. What he didn’t know was that he’d be making a living out of what he found in the woods. Staying with his father in the woods east of Eureka, CA, Rabins learned to forage mushrooms and began to drive them down to San Francisco to sell at the back doors of restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Black trumpets, hedgehogs, chanterelles,” Rabins recalls. “\u003ca href=\"http://www.offalgood.com/\">Chris Cosentino\u003c/a> was one of the first guys to buy from me. He seemed pretty into it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/mushies5601.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/mushies5601.jpg\" alt=\"Foraged mushrooms\" title=\"Foraged mushrooms\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40864\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Foraged mushrooms ready for sale.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rabins, who would “cold call chefs and show up at the back door with a flat of mushrooms,” counted \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/intro.php\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzaiolooakland.com/\">Pizzaiolo\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://emmysspaghettishack.com/\">Emmy's Spaghetti Shack\u003c/a> among his regular clients. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But mushroom season is short in California, and Rabins had a knack for foraging.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I realized that for rest of the year, you can forage too!” he says. Wild greens, acorns, and seaweed made it onto his short list of items to gather in the woods. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I grew up in Vermont but I wasn't really a woods guy,” says Rabins. “It's cool when I go back now to visit my mom, I see so much more than I saw before. There are ramps everywhere!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Foraging gives you a real awareness of your surroundings. You notice things you'd never seen before.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Rabins started a “CSF” (Community Supported Forage) box program, similar to a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Community-supported_agricultur\">CSA\u003c/a> box you’d get from a farm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I wanted to sell at the farmer's markets but people get freaked out by wild mushrooms,” he said. So then, he started the \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/market/\">underground market\u003c/a>. The event, which ran for eighteen months, was a space for people who are making food at home to be able to sell it. Morphing from a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/29/underground-farmers-market/\">private house in the Mission\u003c/a>, to which 150 people showed up to a 2,500 person private club held at \u003ca href=\"http://publicsf.com/\">Public Works\u003c/a>, the underground market was eventually shut down by the Health Department. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/food-market560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/food-market560.jpg\" alt=\"Underground Market\" title=\"Underground Market\" width=\"560\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40867\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hungry patrons wait outside the Underground Market in 2010.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nThree years ago, Rabins started the \u003ca href=\"http://wildkitchen.wordpress.com/\">Wild Kitchen\u003c/a>, a series of wild foraged underground dinners. Each of the eight courses focuses on a couple of wild ingredients that Rabins collects; he cooks with co-chef Thomas Martinez, formerly of \u003ca href=\"http://www.missionbeachcafesf.com/\">Mission Beach Cafe\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartartine.com/\">Bar Tartine\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The focus for Rabins and the rest of the \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/\">forageSF\u003c/a> crew now, is shifting toward an “incubator kitchen,” a concept Rabins is developing based off of the model of \u003ca href=\"http://techshop.ws/\">Tech Shop\u003c/a>. For around $100 monthly, members can use industrial design equipment and receive help with their projects. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Commercial kitchens aren't welcoming to non-professionals,” Rabins explains. “We all have these little apartment kitchens, which are not cohesive to cooking large amounts of food.”\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/an-incubator-kitchen/fundraising-for-forage-kitchen/\">Forage Kitchen\u003c/a> is intended to be a “hub for food.” The shared-use commercial kitchen will have office space and offer consulting to people who are starting their own food businesses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When you're starting your own food business there is so much bureaucracy and red tape,” says Rabins. “There is so much hassle and you're generally trying to do it all on your own, so it's really disheartening.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forage Kitchen will be a space for people to work alongside each other. “People talk a lot about the food community in SF, but more realistically it's a lot of people doing the same stuff on their own in the same city,” Rabins says. A lot of small-business food entrepreneurs, Rabins says, know each other but don’t meet up. Being around others who “are going through the same stuff, and learning the same stuff” will be beneficial to both the small businesspeople and to the larger SF food community as a whole. Beyond Forage Kitchen being for small businesses, though, Rabins sees it as a welcoming space for individuals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though Forage Kitchen is still several months away from opening, Rabins is just starting to fundraise now. He hasn’t begun applying for any licenses yet but there is a space the foragers are eyeballing. “Think 10,000 square feet in SOMA, with space for a rooftop garden and a temperature-controlled room to hang meats and cure prosciutto,” Rabins says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/utopia560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/utopia560.jpg\" alt=\"utopia\" title=\"utopia\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40869\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Diners will eventually enjoy the fruits of local labor at the Forage Kitchen.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nAnother dream is to have a “home brew room,” where novice brewmeisters can produce beer, and a café in front that will sell the wares made on site. When will this utopian place open? “Hopefully within a year,” Rabins says. “It’s amazing how difficult the city makes these things,” he sighs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though getting an independent food business off the ground in San Francisco can be filled with trials and tribulations, Rabins has persevered. His methods of success?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I've always kept my business really light,” he explains. “If I was doing something, and it wasn't working, I could easily change course. I have tried to follow my interests the whole way.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I think the most important thing to be successful is to follow your own passion.”\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>For now, Rabins is getting the word out about the \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/an-incubator-kitchen/fundraising-for-forage-kitchen/\">Forage Kitchen\u003c/a> through forageSF events like Wild-boar scavenger hunts, “Gypsy Jazz pig roasts,” and Basque family-style feasts. Although this weekend’s Basque feasts are sold out there will be future fundraising events to get the Forage Kitchen project off the ground. To be among the first to know about upcoming events subscribe to the \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/\">forageSF email list\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Links:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nforageSF: \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/wild-kitchen/health-department-blues-2/\">Health Department Blues\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Citizen: \u003ca href=\"http://www.baycitizen.org/blogs/culturefeed/foragesf-founder-says-health-department/\">ForageSF Founder Accuses Health Department of Harassment\u003c/a> (UPDATED)\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Iso Rabins of forageSF is the mind behind an underground food market, wild foraging walks and scavenger hunts, plus several series of underground dinners. We dig into what's next on his plate: a cooperative Forage Kitchen.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I realized that for rest of the year, you can forage too!” he says. Wild greens, acorns, and seaweed made it onto his short list of items to gather in the woods. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I grew up in Vermont but I wasn't really a woods guy,” says Rabins. “It's cool when I go back now to visit my mom, I see so much more than I saw before. There are ramps everywhere!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Foraging gives you a real awareness of your surroundings. You notice things you'd never seen before.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Rabins started a “CSF” (Community Supported Forage) box program, similar to a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Community-supported_agricultur\">CSA\u003c/a> box you’d get from a farm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I wanted to sell at the farmer's markets but people get freaked out by wild mushrooms,” he said. So then, he started the \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/market/\">underground market\u003c/a>. The event, which ran for eighteen months, was a space for people who are making food at home to be able to sell it. Morphing from a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/29/underground-farmers-market/\">private house in the Mission\u003c/a>, to which 150 people showed up to a 2,500 person private club held at \u003ca href=\"http://publicsf.com/\">Public Works\u003c/a>, the underground market was eventually shut down by the Health Department. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/food-market560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/food-market560.jpg\" alt=\"Underground Market\" title=\"Underground Market\" width=\"560\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40867\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hungry patrons wait outside the Underground Market in 2010.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nThree years ago, Rabins started the \u003ca href=\"http://wildkitchen.wordpress.com/\">Wild Kitchen\u003c/a>, a series of wild foraged underground dinners. Each of the eight courses focuses on a couple of wild ingredients that Rabins collects; he cooks with co-chef Thomas Martinez, formerly of \u003ca href=\"http://www.missionbeachcafesf.com/\">Mission Beach Cafe\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartartine.com/\">Bar Tartine\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The focus for Rabins and the rest of the \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/\">forageSF\u003c/a> crew now, is shifting toward an “incubator kitchen,” a concept Rabins is developing based off of the model of \u003ca href=\"http://techshop.ws/\">Tech Shop\u003c/a>. For around $100 monthly, members can use industrial design equipment and receive help with their projects. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Commercial kitchens aren't welcoming to non-professionals,” Rabins explains. “We all have these little apartment kitchens, which are not cohesive to cooking large amounts of food.”\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/an-incubator-kitchen/fundraising-for-forage-kitchen/\">Forage Kitchen\u003c/a> is intended to be a “hub for food.” The shared-use commercial kitchen will have office space and offer consulting to people who are starting their own food businesses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When you're starting your own food business there is so much bureaucracy and red tape,” says Rabins. “There is so much hassle and you're generally trying to do it all on your own, so it's really disheartening.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forage Kitchen will be a space for people to work alongside each other. “People talk a lot about the food community in SF, but more realistically it's a lot of people doing the same stuff on their own in the same city,” Rabins says. A lot of small-business food entrepreneurs, Rabins says, know each other but don’t meet up. Being around others who “are going through the same stuff, and learning the same stuff” will be beneficial to both the small businesspeople and to the larger SF food community as a whole. Beyond Forage Kitchen being for small businesses, though, Rabins sees it as a welcoming space for individuals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though Forage Kitchen is still several months away from opening, Rabins is just starting to fundraise now. He hasn’t begun applying for any licenses yet but there is a space the foragers are eyeballing. “Think 10,000 square feet in SOMA, with space for a rooftop garden and a temperature-controlled room to hang meats and cure prosciutto,” Rabins says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/utopia560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/utopia560.jpg\" alt=\"utopia\" title=\"utopia\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40869\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Diners will eventually enjoy the fruits of local labor at the Forage Kitchen.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nAnother dream is to have a “home brew room,” where novice brewmeisters can produce beer, and a café in front that will sell the wares made on site. When will this utopian place open? “Hopefully within a year,” Rabins says. “It’s amazing how difficult the city makes these things,” he sighs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though getting an independent food business off the ground in San Francisco can be filled with trials and tribulations, Rabins has persevered. His methods of success?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I've always kept my business really light,” he explains. “If I was doing something, and it wasn't working, I could easily change course. I have tried to follow my interests the whole way.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I think the most important thing to be successful is to follow your own passion.”\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>For now, Rabins is getting the word out about the \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/an-incubator-kitchen/fundraising-for-forage-kitchen/\">Forage Kitchen\u003c/a> through forageSF events like Wild-boar scavenger hunts, “Gypsy Jazz pig roasts,” and Basque family-style feasts. Although this weekend’s Basque feasts are sold out there will be future fundraising events to get the Forage Kitchen project off the ground. To be among the first to know about upcoming events subscribe to the \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/\">forageSF email list\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Links:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nforageSF: \u003ca href=\"http://foragesf.com/wild-kitchen/health-department-blues-2/\">Health Department Blues\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Citizen: \u003ca href=\"http://www.baycitizen.org/blogs/culturefeed/foragesf-founder-says-health-department/\">ForageSF Founder Accuses Health Department of Harassment\u003c/a> (UPDATED)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Barinaga Ranch: Cheesemaking tradition from Basque Country to West Marin",
"title": "Barinaga Ranch: Cheesemaking tradition from Basque Country to West Marin",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/1baserri560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/1baserri560.jpg\" alt=\"Marcia Barinaga with Baserri\" title=\"Marcia Barinaga with Baserri\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40023\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Marcia Barinaga with her Basque-style sheep's milk cheese, Baserri.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a steep hill above Marshall, CA a gorgeous rolling sheep ranch sits on 800 acres of land. Its owner Marcia \u003ca href=\"http://barinagaranch.com/\">Barinaga\u003c/a>, a third-generation American Basque, bought it with her husband when she decided to “take a break” from her career as a science journalist and retire on the land they had grown to love since purchasing a shore house in Marshall in 1993. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/2ewes560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/2ewes560.jpg\" alt=\"Ewes on the ranch\" title=\"Ewes on the ranch\" width=\"560\" height=\"547\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40026\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pregnant ewes resting at Barinaga Ranch. Photo: Liza Shaw\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Barinaga’s original intention was to retire, she is not a woman who sits still easily. The compact, well-spoken cheesemaker with a doctorate in molecular biology was not sure what she wanted to do with the land. But her Basque roots run deep and slowly the idea of making sheep’s milk cheese took hold of her. “When we bought the ranch I had never even touched a sheep and there were no buildings here,” she laughs. But Barinaga is a quick learner and within a few years she had traveled to Basque country to learn shepherding and cheesemaking from her distant relatives; built a milking parlor and a small creamery; and by 2008 began producing two types of distinctly Basque cheeses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a recent tour of Barinaga Ranch and creamery, Marcia was asked by a visitor, \"What kind of cheese did they have in your father's Idaho sheep camp?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She laughed and responded, \"Big blocks of orange American cheese. They never thought to make cheese with their sheep's milk!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barinaga’s grandparents arrived from \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Markina-Xemein\">Markina\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.chinci.com/travel/pax/e/3130017/Angiozar/ES/Spain/0/\">Angoziar\u003c/a> in the Basque country to Mountain Home, Idaho in the early 1900s. Her father grew up on a ranch with 5,000 sheep where the main products were lamb and wool. At that time cheesemaking from a herd of ranch sheep was unheard of in Idaho though it was a common practice in the Basque country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barinaga’s father eventually left the ranch to become a mechanical engineer in upstate New York where Marcia was raised. “He was unique because he worked for General Electric and he spoke fluent Basque,” she explained. “My father traveled on business to Bilbao for his entire working life, and business trips to Europe in the 1960s lasted at least a month. He got to know all of his Basque family,” unlike his siblings that still worked on the Idaho ranch and were only able to travel to the Basque country once in their lifetime. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/sheep-collateral560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/sheep-collateral560.jpg\" alt=\"Baserri label\" title=\"Baserri label\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40028\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Barinaga shows the label for her Baserri cheese.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barinaga herself traveled to the Basque country for the first time at age 12, and has since returned five times. “My family there doesn’t speak English, and I don't speak Basque, so we communicate in Spanish--which they speak well, and I speak poorly,\" she says. \"There's a limit to the degree we know each other, but there's love and a great affection.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And so it was these shepherding cousins that Barinaga turned to when she decided to try her hand at cheesemaking. Shepherding is synonymous with cheesemaking in the Basque country--it would be unheard of to have sheep there and not make cheese from their milk. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When she contacted a cousin to ask for advice on how to begin her new career path, Barinaga says, “He wrote me this email in Spanish, saying:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>‘I am so happy you have chosen the life of the baserri. It is not a wealthy life, but it is a rich life.’\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Baserri, in Basque, means both “farmhouse” and can refer to the 'farming life.' Barinaga named her first cheese, a pressed, raw-milk cheese “Baserri.” It’s made in the same manner that \u003ca href=\"http://www.artisanalcheese.com/cheeses/Idiazabal\">Idiazabal\u003c/a>, the traditional Basque cheese that has its own \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denominaci%C3%B3n_de_Origen\">DOC\u003c/a> (Denomination de Origen, like a wine appellation) is made on both sides of the Pyrenees. On the French side, it's called \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ossau-Iraty\">Ossau-Iraty\u003c/a>. A newer addition to the Barinaga cheese lineup is the “Txiki,” (meaning “small”) a miniature version of the Baserri. Both cheeses have a pleasantly nutty taste, a firm texture, and lend themselves well to being eaten on their own in triangles with an accompaniment of figs or chutney, or to being melted into a decadent sandwich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/8baserri-txiki560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/8baserri-txiki560.jpg\" alt=\"Both Barinaga Cheeses\" title=\"Both Barinaga Cheeses\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40030\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Both of Barinaga's sheep's milk cheeses.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barinaga also learned aspects of cheesemaking on the French side of the Pyrenees from Luxi and Arno Oxandabarats who taught renowned Vermont cheesemakers Cindy and David Major the tricks to making their acclaimed \u003ca href=\"http://www.vermontshepherd.com/\">Vermont Shepherd Cheese\u003c/a>. Also in Vermont, Barinaga did an internship of sorts at \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatwellguide.org/listing/detail/25743\">Hope Farm Sheep Cheese\u003c/a>. “I went for a week to learn how to milk sheep,” she explains, “and I learned so much there. So many of my key ideas came from the wonderful generosity and creativity of Harvey and Barb Levin,” she attributes. Among them, a one-of-a-kind cheese press that Harvey Levin designed for her, slanted at a slight angle to provide optimum pressure on the rounds of curds, so that the whey drains evenly from the forms. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“I’m trying to use my PhD in as many ways as I can before I die,” she says of her scientific approach to making cheese.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/6cheese-press400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/6cheese-press400.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese Press\" title=\"Cheese Press\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-full wp-image-40037\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The scientifically-designed cheese press.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/3creamery-container560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/3creamery-container560.jpg\" alt=\"The Creamery\" title=\"The Creamery\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40033\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Barinaga Ranch's Creamery\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/4creamery-inside560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/4creamery-inside560.jpg\" alt=\"Creamery interior\" title=\"Creamery interior\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40034\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The creamery's interior\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/5drying-rags560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/5drying-rags560.jpg\" alt=\"Window Rags\" title=\"Window Rags\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40035\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Everything is squeaky clean in the creamery.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barinaga Ranch’s creamery is made of several shipping containers, a cool modern use of space. It’s clear that Barinaga has great love and respect for her animals. All of the sheep featured on the marketing collateral are actually from her flock. She recognizes and has given many of the 86 ewes names and ensures they are humanely slaughtered once their lambing days are over. Locally made sausage is available for purchase when you tour Barinaga Ranch and you can expect to see Barinaga Ranch charceuterie on a few select San Francisco restaurant menus in the coming year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/9sausages560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/9sausages560.jpg\" alt=\"Fresh Sausage\" title=\"Fresh Sausage\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40036\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Freshly-made Barinaga Ranch sausage.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“I’ll never send my ewes off to a slaughterhouse to be made into dog food,” she avers. “They have served me faithfully and they deserve better than that.”\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Barinaga Ranch cheeses are made from April through early October when the ewes are in their prime milking season, though Saturday tours of the ranch and the creamery are available year-round. On a tour, which can accommodate up to 15 people, visitors can meet the ewes, view a milking session, and perhaps even pet a lamb. \u003ca href=\"http://barinagaranch.com/app/tours\">Tours\u003c/a> are $20 per person, and include a tasting of both Barinaga Ranch cheeses. Should a visitor choose to purchase a wheel of cheese, the price of the tour will be deducted from the price of the cheese. The cheese is available to the consumer once it has aged at least 60 days. From June through December, the 'young' cheese is available, aged 2-3 months. From October through March or April, Barinaga's 'extra-aged' cheese is available, aged 6-9 months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for her future plans? Barinaga says, “I would like to rest a little more...but a sheep dairy is certainly not a retirement occupation!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/10group-tour560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/10group-tour560.jpg\" alt=\"Tour Group\" title=\"Tour Group\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40040\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>SF chefs, sommeliers, wine importers, and cheesemongers at a tour of Barinaga Ranch.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://barinagaranch.com/\">Barinaga Ranch\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://g.co/maps/3x5hj\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n9059 Marshall Petaluma Road, Marshall, CA 94940\u003cbr>\nPhone: 415-663-8638\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Barinaga-Ranch/214103988646213?ref=ts&sk=wall\">Barinaga Ranch\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Raw sheep's milk cheese made in the traditional Basque style is a rarity in Northern California. We took a tour of Barinaga Ranch to learn about the ancient process directly from the source. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/1baserri560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/1baserri560.jpg\" alt=\"Marcia Barinaga with Baserri\" title=\"Marcia Barinaga with Baserri\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40023\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Marcia Barinaga with her Basque-style sheep's milk cheese, Baserri.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a steep hill above Marshall, CA a gorgeous rolling sheep ranch sits on 800 acres of land. Its owner Marcia \u003ca href=\"http://barinagaranch.com/\">Barinaga\u003c/a>, a third-generation American Basque, bought it with her husband when she decided to “take a break” from her career as a science journalist and retire on the land they had grown to love since purchasing a shore house in Marshall in 1993. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/2ewes560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/2ewes560.jpg\" alt=\"Ewes on the ranch\" title=\"Ewes on the ranch\" width=\"560\" height=\"547\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40026\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pregnant ewes resting at Barinaga Ranch. Photo: Liza Shaw\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Barinaga’s original intention was to retire, she is not a woman who sits still easily. The compact, well-spoken cheesemaker with a doctorate in molecular biology was not sure what she wanted to do with the land. But her Basque roots run deep and slowly the idea of making sheep’s milk cheese took hold of her. “When we bought the ranch I had never even touched a sheep and there were no buildings here,” she laughs. But Barinaga is a quick learner and within a few years she had traveled to Basque country to learn shepherding and cheesemaking from her distant relatives; built a milking parlor and a small creamery; and by 2008 began producing two types of distinctly Basque cheeses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a recent tour of Barinaga Ranch and creamery, Marcia was asked by a visitor, \"What kind of cheese did they have in your father's Idaho sheep camp?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She laughed and responded, \"Big blocks of orange American cheese. They never thought to make cheese with their sheep's milk!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barinaga’s grandparents arrived from \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Markina-Xemein\">Markina\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.chinci.com/travel/pax/e/3130017/Angiozar/ES/Spain/0/\">Angoziar\u003c/a> in the Basque country to Mountain Home, Idaho in the early 1900s. Her father grew up on a ranch with 5,000 sheep where the main products were lamb and wool. At that time cheesemaking from a herd of ranch sheep was unheard of in Idaho though it was a common practice in the Basque country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barinaga’s father eventually left the ranch to become a mechanical engineer in upstate New York where Marcia was raised. “He was unique because he worked for General Electric and he spoke fluent Basque,” she explained. “My father traveled on business to Bilbao for his entire working life, and business trips to Europe in the 1960s lasted at least a month. He got to know all of his Basque family,” unlike his siblings that still worked on the Idaho ranch and were only able to travel to the Basque country once in their lifetime. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/sheep-collateral560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/sheep-collateral560.jpg\" alt=\"Baserri label\" title=\"Baserri label\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40028\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Barinaga shows the label for her Baserri cheese.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barinaga herself traveled to the Basque country for the first time at age 12, and has since returned five times. “My family there doesn’t speak English, and I don't speak Basque, so we communicate in Spanish--which they speak well, and I speak poorly,\" she says. \"There's a limit to the degree we know each other, but there's love and a great affection.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And so it was these shepherding cousins that Barinaga turned to when she decided to try her hand at cheesemaking. Shepherding is synonymous with cheesemaking in the Basque country--it would be unheard of to have sheep there and not make cheese from their milk. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When she contacted a cousin to ask for advice on how to begin her new career path, Barinaga says, “He wrote me this email in Spanish, saying:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>‘I am so happy you have chosen the life of the baserri. It is not a wealthy life, but it is a rich life.’\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Baserri, in Basque, means both “farmhouse” and can refer to the 'farming life.' Barinaga named her first cheese, a pressed, raw-milk cheese “Baserri.” It’s made in the same manner that \u003ca href=\"http://www.artisanalcheese.com/cheeses/Idiazabal\">Idiazabal\u003c/a>, the traditional Basque cheese that has its own \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denominaci%C3%B3n_de_Origen\">DOC\u003c/a> (Denomination de Origen, like a wine appellation) is made on both sides of the Pyrenees. On the French side, it's called \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ossau-Iraty\">Ossau-Iraty\u003c/a>. A newer addition to the Barinaga cheese lineup is the “Txiki,” (meaning “small”) a miniature version of the Baserri. Both cheeses have a pleasantly nutty taste, a firm texture, and lend themselves well to being eaten on their own in triangles with an accompaniment of figs or chutney, or to being melted into a decadent sandwich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/8baserri-txiki560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/8baserri-txiki560.jpg\" alt=\"Both Barinaga Cheeses\" title=\"Both Barinaga Cheeses\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40030\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Both of Barinaga's sheep's milk cheeses.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barinaga also learned aspects of cheesemaking on the French side of the Pyrenees from Luxi and Arno Oxandabarats who taught renowned Vermont cheesemakers Cindy and David Major the tricks to making their acclaimed \u003ca href=\"http://www.vermontshepherd.com/\">Vermont Shepherd Cheese\u003c/a>. Also in Vermont, Barinaga did an internship of sorts at \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatwellguide.org/listing/detail/25743\">Hope Farm Sheep Cheese\u003c/a>. “I went for a week to learn how to milk sheep,” she explains, “and I learned so much there. So many of my key ideas came from the wonderful generosity and creativity of Harvey and Barb Levin,” she attributes. Among them, a one-of-a-kind cheese press that Harvey Levin designed for her, slanted at a slight angle to provide optimum pressure on the rounds of curds, so that the whey drains evenly from the forms. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“I’m trying to use my PhD in as many ways as I can before I die,” she says of her scientific approach to making cheese.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/6cheese-press400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/6cheese-press400.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese Press\" title=\"Cheese Press\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-full wp-image-40037\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The scientifically-designed cheese press.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/3creamery-container560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/3creamery-container560.jpg\" alt=\"The Creamery\" title=\"The Creamery\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40033\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Barinaga Ranch's Creamery\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/4creamery-inside560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/4creamery-inside560.jpg\" alt=\"Creamery interior\" title=\"Creamery interior\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40034\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The creamery's interior\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/5drying-rags560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/5drying-rags560.jpg\" alt=\"Window Rags\" title=\"Window Rags\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40035\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Everything is squeaky clean in the creamery.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barinaga Ranch’s creamery is made of several shipping containers, a cool modern use of space. It’s clear that Barinaga has great love and respect for her animals. All of the sheep featured on the marketing collateral are actually from her flock. She recognizes and has given many of the 86 ewes names and ensures they are humanely slaughtered once their lambing days are over. Locally made sausage is available for purchase when you tour Barinaga Ranch and you can expect to see Barinaga Ranch charceuterie on a few select San Francisco restaurant menus in the coming year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/9sausages560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/9sausages560.jpg\" alt=\"Fresh Sausage\" title=\"Fresh Sausage\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40036\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Freshly-made Barinaga Ranch sausage.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“I’ll never send my ewes off to a slaughterhouse to be made into dog food,” she avers. “They have served me faithfully and they deserve better than that.”\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Barinaga Ranch cheeses are made from April through early October when the ewes are in their prime milking season, though Saturday tours of the ranch and the creamery are available year-round. On a tour, which can accommodate up to 15 people, visitors can meet the ewes, view a milking session, and perhaps even pet a lamb. \u003ca href=\"http://barinagaranch.com/app/tours\">Tours\u003c/a> are $20 per person, and include a tasting of both Barinaga Ranch cheeses. Should a visitor choose to purchase a wheel of cheese, the price of the tour will be deducted from the price of the cheese. The cheese is available to the consumer once it has aged at least 60 days. From June through December, the 'young' cheese is available, aged 2-3 months. From October through March or April, Barinaga's 'extra-aged' cheese is available, aged 6-9 months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for her future plans? Barinaga says, “I would like to rest a little more...but a sheep dairy is certainly not a retirement occupation!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/10group-tour560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/10group-tour560.jpg\" alt=\"Tour Group\" title=\"Tour Group\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40040\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>SF chefs, sommeliers, wine importers, and cheesemongers at a tour of Barinaga Ranch.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://barinagaranch.com/\">Barinaga Ranch\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://g.co/maps/3x5hj\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n9059 Marshall Petaluma Road, Marshall, CA 94940\u003cbr>\nPhone: 415-663-8638\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Barinaga-Ranch/214103988646213?ref=ts&sk=wall\">Barinaga Ranch\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "FoodWorks: Canning Company Preserves Marin's Produce",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/CAM-staff560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/CAM-staff560.jpg\" alt=\"Merrilee Olson, on right, and her crew in the FoodWorks kitchen.\" title=\"Merrilee Olson, on right, and her crew in the FoodWorks kitchen.\" width=\"560\" height=\"374\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39928\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Merrilee Olson, on right, kitchen supervisor Mayte Lopez on her left, and crew in the FoodWorks kitchen. Photo: Duncan Garrett \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's no secret that Marin County farms produce an abundance of local, seasonal, and organic produce enjoyed by residents around the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But finding homes for all that fresh food, whether lemons, tomatoes, or apples, can be a challenge for farmers during harvest time -- and what to do to generate income during the months when specialty crops are out of season?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enter \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/12/11/canning-for-a-cause-lets-preserve/\">canning queen Merrilee Olson\u003c/a> to the rescue. Olson heads up the new food manufacturing company \u003ca href=\"http://www.camfoodworks.com/\">Community Action Marin's (CAM) FoodWorks\u003c/a>, a small-batch, co-packing company that helps Marin farmers turn their excess fruits and vegetables into jams and jellies, conserves and chutneys, and salsas and sauces, giving them a shelf life beyond the growing season, adding another source of revenue to farmers, and providing an artisan product to consumers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And -- the CAM community hopes down the track -- turning a profit that would supplement this San Rafael-based, non-profit, county organization, which funds, among other services, food programs for local residents in need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From Olson's perspective, it's a win-win all round.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"We're trying to create a model here that's replicable and plays a role in creating a resilient, thriving, and healthy community,\" she says. \"Though my new motto is: We're sailing the ship while we're building it. Since we're creating something that hasn't been done it's both exciting and challenging,\" she adds. \"We're a local food company for the people and we want to make stars out of our local farmers and their produce through these value-added products.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Launched last June as a project with long-term fundraising objectives for \u003ca href=\"http://camarin.org/\">Community Action Marin\u003c/a>, a social services agency that provides child care, energy assistance, emergency family needs, mental health care, employment training, and senior programs for the county's low-income residents, FoodWorks began producing jars of jams back in August from the agency's central kitchen and production has been steadily building ever since.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CAM kitchen -- which feeds more than 600 children in the county's Head Start program every day -- used to shut down at 2 p.m. CAM staffers realized that the state-of-the-art space was an underutilized resource that could be put to good use and hired canning guru and recipe tester Olson, the founder of \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/PRESERVEsonoma/142805682435645\">PRESERVESonoma\u003c/a>, a nonprofit canning organization previously profiled on BAB, to come on board as FoodWorks' director. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given her canning and culinary background, Olson was able to attract many big name small producers to her nascent project, including \u003ca href=\"http://mcevoyranch.com/\">McEvoy Ranch\u003c/a> in northern Marin, as well as Middleton Farms, \u003ca href=\"https://www.prestonvineyards.com/\">Preston Vineyard\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.medlockames.com/\">Medlock Ames Winery\u003c/a>, all in Healdsburg. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/cam.foodworks.products400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/cam.foodworks.products400.jpg\" alt=\"A trio of value-added products produced by FoodWorks.\" title=\"A trio of value-added products produced by FoodWorks.\" width=\"400\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39930\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A trio of value-added products produced by FoodWorks. Photo: Shae Irving\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Others who have sought out FoodWorks include small local food entrepreneurs, who want to sell their own BBQ sauce, and restaurant clients who want to produce their own line of condiments. Kenny Rochford of \u003ca href=\"http://www.schoolgardenwines.com/\">School Garden\u003c/a> called on Olson's service for an apple chutney product using gleaned produce from an unused farm in Healdsburg as part of a fund-raising effort for a local school garden. \"As charitable endeavors go, I'd rather write a check for apple chutney than gift wrap,\" jokes Rochford. The project has proven popular; up next: Meyer lemon marmalade. \"Gleaned fruit is tricky, there are variations in color, flavor, and texture,\" notes Rochford. \"Olson is good at tweaking recipes to accommodate that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>FoodWorks recently landed a commitment from \u003ca href=\"http://biritemarket.com/\">Bi-Rite Market\u003c/a> to make tomato sauce using produce from the independent retailer's farm, and FoodWorks' biggest client, whose product will hit a major grocery store chain at a $5.99 price point, will be announced shortly. Both are big gets for the budding business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Olson, a former culinary director for \u003ca href=\"http://www.bamco.com/\">Bon Appetit Management Corporation\u003c/a>, enjoys coming up with unique specialty products for farmers, she's especially glad to be crafting quality artisan products out of pristine produce that was otherwise destined for the compost pile. (Speaking of compost: Olson sends all of hers to \u003ca href=\"http://tarafirmafarms.com/\">Tara Firma Farms\u003c/a> in Petaluma, where it's enjoyed by the resident pigs.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/fuyu.persimmons.400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/fuyu.persimmons.400.jpg\" alt=\"Persimmon-ginger-chile preserves ready for canning.\" title=\"Persimmon-ginger-chile preserves ready for canning.\" width=\"400\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39932\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Persimmon pickles with ginger and chile ready for canning. Photo: Shae Irving\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olson, who supervises a kitchen crew of three, works with clients on product concept, recipe development, production, and packaging and labeling, often with farmers own private label attached for instant branding purposes. Higher-value, less-perishable products can also help subsidize small farmers whose profit margins are slim in the sustainable, organic produce world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>CAM FoodWorks plays an invaluable role as an incubator for small food businesses, says Sarah Darcey-Martin, outreach director for \u003ca href=\"http://www.agriculturalinstitute.org/\">Agricultural Institute of Marin\u003c/a>, which operates eight Bay Area farmers' markets. And the group can assume many of the costs of regulation and certification, a commercial kitchen space, and labor that could prove prohibitive for small farmers, adds Ellen Roggemann, the specialty food developer and an assistant gardener at McEvoy Ranch, who works with Olson on recipes for the ranch's line of products, including apple and lavender jelly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each jar that comes out of the FoodWorks kitchen costs between $2 and $3.50 to produce, with a minimum order of 25 cases (by comparison, the industry average is around 500). Farmers pass on this cost to consumers, with products retailing around $8-$12 for the gourmet goodies, typically sold on site, at farmers' markets around the Bay Area, or in small specialty stores. (Though the notion of landing bigger takers like Whole Foods remains a goal, as is farmers pooling produce to come up with a product -- say, five-farm soup -- for the wholesale or retail market.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/medlock_jars560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/medlock_jars560.jpg\" alt=\"The range of products produced by FoodWorks for Medlock Ames Winery.\" title=\"The range of products produced by FoodWorks for Medlock Ames Winery.\" width=\"560\" height=\"388\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39934\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The range of products produced by FoodWorks for Medlock Ames Winery. Photo: Shae Irving\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Foodworks is one of the few kitchen partners able to work with boutique volumes and Merrilee Olson has the skill and zeal to help us craft delicious products, says Dawn Pacheco of Medlock Ames Winery, for whom FoodWorks has produced strawberry jam, quince apple butter, apple pear butter, mandarin marmalade, and rustic marinara sauce. \"The scale, flexibility and passion of Foodworks is perfect for us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olson, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/preserves/middleton-farm-raspberry-preserves/\">Good Foods Award winner for her raspberry preserves using Middleton Farm fruit\u003c/a>, would also like to see the kitchen made available for community canning projects, such as jarring excess tomatoes, for instance, that can be used as sauce in school lunch programs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olson also hopes to see other small-scale food processing places popping up emulating FoodWorks efforts. And she's already talking about expansion plans for her own nascent enterprise. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"We need other local food-processing facilities to get where we need to go in terms of advancing a local, sustainable food system,\" she says. \"We need to build momentum here -- for us that means a bigger facility and more investment. We've already demonstrated the business is there.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Canning queen Merrilee Olson lends her expertise to a new preservation project designed to help Marin farms -- and county children fed by the Head Start program -- by producing an artisan product from excess produce.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/CAM-staff560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/CAM-staff560.jpg\" alt=\"Merrilee Olson, on right, and her crew in the FoodWorks kitchen.\" title=\"Merrilee Olson, on right, and her crew in the FoodWorks kitchen.\" width=\"560\" height=\"374\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39928\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Merrilee Olson, on right, kitchen supervisor Mayte Lopez on her left, and crew in the FoodWorks kitchen. Photo: Duncan Garrett \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's no secret that Marin County farms produce an abundance of local, seasonal, and organic produce enjoyed by residents around the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But finding homes for all that fresh food, whether lemons, tomatoes, or apples, can be a challenge for farmers during harvest time -- and what to do to generate income during the months when specialty crops are out of season?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enter \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/12/11/canning-for-a-cause-lets-preserve/\">canning queen Merrilee Olson\u003c/a> to the rescue. Olson heads up the new food manufacturing company \u003ca href=\"http://www.camfoodworks.com/\">Community Action Marin's (CAM) FoodWorks\u003c/a>, a small-batch, co-packing company that helps Marin farmers turn their excess fruits and vegetables into jams and jellies, conserves and chutneys, and salsas and sauces, giving them a shelf life beyond the growing season, adding another source of revenue to farmers, and providing an artisan product to consumers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And -- the CAM community hopes down the track -- turning a profit that would supplement this San Rafael-based, non-profit, county organization, which funds, among other services, food programs for local residents in need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From Olson's perspective, it's a win-win all round.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"We're trying to create a model here that's replicable and plays a role in creating a resilient, thriving, and healthy community,\" she says. \"Though my new motto is: We're sailing the ship while we're building it. Since we're creating something that hasn't been done it's both exciting and challenging,\" she adds. \"We're a local food company for the people and we want to make stars out of our local farmers and their produce through these value-added products.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Launched last June as a project with long-term fundraising objectives for \u003ca href=\"http://camarin.org/\">Community Action Marin\u003c/a>, a social services agency that provides child care, energy assistance, emergency family needs, mental health care, employment training, and senior programs for the county's low-income residents, FoodWorks began producing jars of jams back in August from the agency's central kitchen and production has been steadily building ever since.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CAM kitchen -- which feeds more than 600 children in the county's Head Start program every day -- used to shut down at 2 p.m. CAM staffers realized that the state-of-the-art space was an underutilized resource that could be put to good use and hired canning guru and recipe tester Olson, the founder of \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/PRESERVEsonoma/142805682435645\">PRESERVESonoma\u003c/a>, a nonprofit canning organization previously profiled on BAB, to come on board as FoodWorks' director. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given her canning and culinary background, Olson was able to attract many big name small producers to her nascent project, including \u003ca href=\"http://mcevoyranch.com/\">McEvoy Ranch\u003c/a> in northern Marin, as well as Middleton Farms, \u003ca href=\"https://www.prestonvineyards.com/\">Preston Vineyard\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.medlockames.com/\">Medlock Ames Winery\u003c/a>, all in Healdsburg. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/cam.foodworks.products400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/cam.foodworks.products400.jpg\" alt=\"A trio of value-added products produced by FoodWorks.\" title=\"A trio of value-added products produced by FoodWorks.\" width=\"400\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39930\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A trio of value-added products produced by FoodWorks. Photo: Shae Irving\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Others who have sought out FoodWorks include small local food entrepreneurs, who want to sell their own BBQ sauce, and restaurant clients who want to produce their own line of condiments. Kenny Rochford of \u003ca href=\"http://www.schoolgardenwines.com/\">School Garden\u003c/a> called on Olson's service for an apple chutney product using gleaned produce from an unused farm in Healdsburg as part of a fund-raising effort for a local school garden. \"As charitable endeavors go, I'd rather write a check for apple chutney than gift wrap,\" jokes Rochford. The project has proven popular; up next: Meyer lemon marmalade. \"Gleaned fruit is tricky, there are variations in color, flavor, and texture,\" notes Rochford. \"Olson is good at tweaking recipes to accommodate that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>FoodWorks recently landed a commitment from \u003ca href=\"http://biritemarket.com/\">Bi-Rite Market\u003c/a> to make tomato sauce using produce from the independent retailer's farm, and FoodWorks' biggest client, whose product will hit a major grocery store chain at a $5.99 price point, will be announced shortly. Both are big gets for the budding business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Olson, a former culinary director for \u003ca href=\"http://www.bamco.com/\">Bon Appetit Management Corporation\u003c/a>, enjoys coming up with unique specialty products for farmers, she's especially glad to be crafting quality artisan products out of pristine produce that was otherwise destined for the compost pile. (Speaking of compost: Olson sends all of hers to \u003ca href=\"http://tarafirmafarms.com/\">Tara Firma Farms\u003c/a> in Petaluma, where it's enjoyed by the resident pigs.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/fuyu.persimmons.400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/fuyu.persimmons.400.jpg\" alt=\"Persimmon-ginger-chile preserves ready for canning.\" title=\"Persimmon-ginger-chile preserves ready for canning.\" width=\"400\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39932\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Persimmon pickles with ginger and chile ready for canning. Photo: Shae Irving\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olson, who supervises a kitchen crew of three, works with clients on product concept, recipe development, production, and packaging and labeling, often with farmers own private label attached for instant branding purposes. Higher-value, less-perishable products can also help subsidize small farmers whose profit margins are slim in the sustainable, organic produce world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>CAM FoodWorks plays an invaluable role as an incubator for small food businesses, says Sarah Darcey-Martin, outreach director for \u003ca href=\"http://www.agriculturalinstitute.org/\">Agricultural Institute of Marin\u003c/a>, which operates eight Bay Area farmers' markets. And the group can assume many of the costs of regulation and certification, a commercial kitchen space, and labor that could prove prohibitive for small farmers, adds Ellen Roggemann, the specialty food developer and an assistant gardener at McEvoy Ranch, who works with Olson on recipes for the ranch's line of products, including apple and lavender jelly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each jar that comes out of the FoodWorks kitchen costs between $2 and $3.50 to produce, with a minimum order of 25 cases (by comparison, the industry average is around 500). Farmers pass on this cost to consumers, with products retailing around $8-$12 for the gourmet goodies, typically sold on site, at farmers' markets around the Bay Area, or in small specialty stores. (Though the notion of landing bigger takers like Whole Foods remains a goal, as is farmers pooling produce to come up with a product -- say, five-farm soup -- for the wholesale or retail market.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/medlock_jars560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/medlock_jars560.jpg\" alt=\"The range of products produced by FoodWorks for Medlock Ames Winery.\" title=\"The range of products produced by FoodWorks for Medlock Ames Winery.\" width=\"560\" height=\"388\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39934\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The range of products produced by FoodWorks for Medlock Ames Winery. Photo: Shae Irving\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Foodworks is one of the few kitchen partners able to work with boutique volumes and Merrilee Olson has the skill and zeal to help us craft delicious products, says Dawn Pacheco of Medlock Ames Winery, for whom FoodWorks has produced strawberry jam, quince apple butter, apple pear butter, mandarin marmalade, and rustic marinara sauce. \"The scale, flexibility and passion of Foodworks is perfect for us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olson, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/preserves/middleton-farm-raspberry-preserves/\">Good Foods Award winner for her raspberry preserves using Middleton Farm fruit\u003c/a>, would also like to see the kitchen made available for community canning projects, such as jarring excess tomatoes, for instance, that can be used as sauce in school lunch programs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olson also hopes to see other small-scale food processing places popping up emulating FoodWorks efforts. And she's already talking about expansion plans for her own nascent enterprise. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"We need other local food-processing facilities to get where we need to go in terms of advancing a local, sustainable food system,\" she says. \"We need to build momentum here -- for us that means a bigger facility and more investment. We've already demonstrated the business is there.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The new Caffe 817 in Old Oakland",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/owners.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/owners.jpg\" alt=\"Owners Emily and Scott Goldenberg\" title=\"Owners Emily and Scott Goldenberg\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39655\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Owners Emily and Scott Goldenberg\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Have you been to \u003ca href=\"http://caffe817.com/\">Caffe 817\u003c/a> lately? Opened in 1993, this sunny hangout in Old Oakland changed hands last year. While the name and the Italian inspiration remains the name, new owners Scott and Emily Goldenberg have made the place their own. The couple, who met while both were working as sous-chefs at \u003ca href=\"http://www.zunicafe.com/\">Zuni Cafe\u003c/a>, are dedicated to bringing their love for local flavors and housemade products to downtown Oakland. At a recent breakfast for food writers and bloggers hosted by \u003ca href=\"http://www.oaklandlocal.com\">Oakland Local\u003c/a>, Scott and Emily showcased a few of their favorite brunch items and talked about what they're trying to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But first, what's that alluring, elusive flavor--not cinnamon--in that bowl of crunchy, not-too-sweet organic granola? It's cardamom, a legacy of Emily's Norwegian heritage. (Throughout Scandanavia, cardamom is a commonly addition to sweet breads and morning pastries.) Nutmeg's in there, and an herby-citrusy burst of coriander, too, tossed into a hearty mix of organic nuts, seeds, and grains. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Granola may not be Italian, but the coffee certainly is, or at least as Italian as you can get without leaving the West Coast. The Goldenbergs stock \u003ca href=\"http://www.mrespresso.com\">Mr. Espresso\u003c/a> beans, which Emily describes as \"as local as local can be,\" since their beans are roasted over oak just a few blocks away on 3rd Street close to Jack London Square. The family-run business was founded by the Italian-born Carlo Di Ruocco, who got his start as an importer of espresso machines. The Di Ruocco family \"come in for coffee all the time,\" Emily notes, while praising the \"real Italian profile\" of their beans. The Di Ruoccos were one of the first roasters in the area to source organic and certified fair-trade beans. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/jams.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/jams.jpg\" alt=\"jams\" title=\"jams\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39659\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Scott works the poached-egg maker--which he describes, with pride, as \"an old-school piece of Italian gadgetry,\" Emily urges us to dress up our levain toast with a spoonful of one of her housemade winter preserves, including spiced apple butter, mandarin orange marmalade, and kiwi jam.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/eggpoacher.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/eggpoacher.jpg\" alt=\"egg poacher\" title=\"egg poacher\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39656\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I can't resist ducking behind the counter to get a closer look at that egg poacher. It's a tall, streamlined metal box, with hot water in the base topped by a perforated metal insert. \"It's an old thing that doesn't break,\" marvels Scott as he cracks eggs into individual ceramic cups, then lowers them into the insert. Once the lid is shut, the eggs cook fast but gently, bain-marie style, in the circulating steam. A quick scoop around with a rubber spatula, and a perfectly shaped, consistently tender egg pops out, ready to be perched atop a slice of olivada-smeared levain toast or nestled into a dish of chunky, satisfying corned-beef hash. The corned beef starts with grass-fed brisket (sourced, depending on the season, from local \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinsunfarms.com/\">Marin Sun Farms\u003c/a> or South Dakota's \u003ca href=\"http://preferredmeats.com/PMranch_stormhill2.htm\">Storm Hill Beef Cooperative\u003c/a>) that's brined for five days, then slow-cooked overnight to get \"uberdelicious,\" as Emily calls it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/hash.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/hash.jpg\" alt=\"corned beef hash\" title=\"corned beef hash\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39658\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also get to try the Italian toast, a slim pressed hot sandwich of Italian proscuitto cotto (cooked ham) with rosemary paired with a domestic Gruyere (made by Wisconsin-based Roth Kase) and a tangy slather of mostarda, made with dried figs, cherries, and raisins poached with spices and wine and then pureed into jam, a untraditional touch that turns it from chunky condiment into versatile spread. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/hamtoast.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/hamtoast.jpg\" alt=\"Italian toast - proscuitto and Gruyere\" title=\"Italian toast - proscuitto and Gruyere\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39657\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So far, the neighborhood's response to their freshened-up, seasonal menu has been strong. But since the name remains the same, Scott and Emily realize that many people, even formerly regular diners, may not yet know that the place is, in fact, new. It's just one of many challenges; the Goldenbergs also welcomed the arrival of their first child recently. A new restaurant, a new baby, and they still find time to make their own jam and cure their own brisket! If that's not a labor of love, what is? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://caffe817.com/\">Caffe 817\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://g.co/maps/82sz2\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n817 Washington St., Oakland, CA 94607\u003cbr>\nPhone: 510.271.7965\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon - Fri: 7:30am - 3pm, Sat: 8:30am - 3pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/caffe817\">Caffe 817\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/caffe817\">@caffe817\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/owners.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/owners.jpg\" alt=\"Owners Emily and Scott Goldenberg\" title=\"Owners Emily and Scott Goldenberg\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39655\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Owners Emily and Scott Goldenberg\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Have you been to \u003ca href=\"http://caffe817.com/\">Caffe 817\u003c/a> lately? Opened in 1993, this sunny hangout in Old Oakland changed hands last year. While the name and the Italian inspiration remains the name, new owners Scott and Emily Goldenberg have made the place their own. The couple, who met while both were working as sous-chefs at \u003ca href=\"http://www.zunicafe.com/\">Zuni Cafe\u003c/a>, are dedicated to bringing their love for local flavors and housemade products to downtown Oakland. At a recent breakfast for food writers and bloggers hosted by \u003ca href=\"http://www.oaklandlocal.com\">Oakland Local\u003c/a>, Scott and Emily showcased a few of their favorite brunch items and talked about what they're trying to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But first, what's that alluring, elusive flavor--not cinnamon--in that bowl of crunchy, not-too-sweet organic granola? It's cardamom, a legacy of Emily's Norwegian heritage. (Throughout Scandanavia, cardamom is a commonly addition to sweet breads and morning pastries.) Nutmeg's in there, and an herby-citrusy burst of coriander, too, tossed into a hearty mix of organic nuts, seeds, and grains. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Granola may not be Italian, but the coffee certainly is, or at least as Italian as you can get without leaving the West Coast. The Goldenbergs stock \u003ca href=\"http://www.mrespresso.com\">Mr. Espresso\u003c/a> beans, which Emily describes as \"as local as local can be,\" since their beans are roasted over oak just a few blocks away on 3rd Street close to Jack London Square. The family-run business was founded by the Italian-born Carlo Di Ruocco, who got his start as an importer of espresso machines. The Di Ruocco family \"come in for coffee all the time,\" Emily notes, while praising the \"real Italian profile\" of their beans. The Di Ruoccos were one of the first roasters in the area to source organic and certified fair-trade beans. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/jams.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/jams.jpg\" alt=\"jams\" title=\"jams\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39659\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Scott works the poached-egg maker--which he describes, with pride, as \"an old-school piece of Italian gadgetry,\" Emily urges us to dress up our levain toast with a spoonful of one of her housemade winter preserves, including spiced apple butter, mandarin orange marmalade, and kiwi jam.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/eggpoacher.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/eggpoacher.jpg\" alt=\"egg poacher\" title=\"egg poacher\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39656\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I can't resist ducking behind the counter to get a closer look at that egg poacher. It's a tall, streamlined metal box, with hot water in the base topped by a perforated metal insert. \"It's an old thing that doesn't break,\" marvels Scott as he cracks eggs into individual ceramic cups, then lowers them into the insert. Once the lid is shut, the eggs cook fast but gently, bain-marie style, in the circulating steam. A quick scoop around with a rubber spatula, and a perfectly shaped, consistently tender egg pops out, ready to be perched atop a slice of olivada-smeared levain toast or nestled into a dish of chunky, satisfying corned-beef hash. The corned beef starts with grass-fed brisket (sourced, depending on the season, from local \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinsunfarms.com/\">Marin Sun Farms\u003c/a> or South Dakota's \u003ca href=\"http://preferredmeats.com/PMranch_stormhill2.htm\">Storm Hill Beef Cooperative\u003c/a>) that's brined for five days, then slow-cooked overnight to get \"uberdelicious,\" as Emily calls it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/hash.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/hash.jpg\" alt=\"corned beef hash\" title=\"corned beef hash\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39658\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also get to try the Italian toast, a slim pressed hot sandwich of Italian proscuitto cotto (cooked ham) with rosemary paired with a domestic Gruyere (made by Wisconsin-based Roth Kase) and a tangy slather of mostarda, made with dried figs, cherries, and raisins poached with spices and wine and then pureed into jam, a untraditional touch that turns it from chunky condiment into versatile spread. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/hamtoast.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/hamtoast.jpg\" alt=\"Italian toast - proscuitto and Gruyere\" title=\"Italian toast - proscuitto and Gruyere\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39657\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So far, the neighborhood's response to their freshened-up, seasonal menu has been strong. But since the name remains the same, Scott and Emily realize that many people, even formerly regular diners, may not yet know that the place is, in fact, new. It's just one of many challenges; the Goldenbergs also welcomed the arrival of their first child recently. A new restaurant, a new baby, and they still find time to make their own jam and cure their own brisket! If that's not a labor of love, what is? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://caffe817.com/\">Caffe 817\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://g.co/maps/82sz2\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n817 Washington St., Oakland, CA 94607\u003cbr>\nPhone: 510.271.7965\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon - Fri: 7:30am - 3pm, Sat: 8:30am - 3pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/caffe817\">Caffe 817\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/caffe817\">@caffe817\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "It's all about the milk at Cowgirl Creamery",
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"content": "\u003cp>Once upon a time, two childhood friends drove a Volkswagen bus across the country to Berkeley. \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/bios.asp#susan\">Sue Conley\u003c/a> opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.bettesdiner.com/\">Bette's Ocean Diner\u003c/a> in Berkeley and worked at Betty's and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/bios.asp#peggy\">Peggy Smith\u003c/a> cooked at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> for 17 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After some decades of culinary success, the two were ready for a new challenge. Their concept was essentially a marketing vehicle for local organic farms like \u003ca href=\"http://www.strausfamilycreamery.com/\">Straus Family Creamery\u003c/a> which was the first organic dairy farm west of the Mississippi. One of them fell in love with the Point Reyes National Park, and the other fell in love with a park ranger. \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/wholesale.asp\">Tomales Bay Foods\u003c/a> was founded in 1993.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Tomales-Bay-Foods_560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Tomales-Bay-Foods_560.jpg\" alt=\"Tomales Bay Foods\" title=\"Tomales Bay Foods\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39332\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tomales Bay Foods\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The vision for Tomales Bay Foods was a place where people could come and buy and eat local products grown and made in West Marin. Sue dreamt of a European-style cheese counter, something that didn't quite exist even in the food-forward Bay Area at that time. Four years later an old hay barn was renovated into the market that we know today, housing the cheesemaking facility, an organic produce stand, a natural-fabric clothing shop, an artisan cheese counter and a deli. Eventually, Sue and Peggy tried their hands at making some \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/cheeses.asp\">simple fresh cheeses\u003c/a>--all of which I was lucky enough to taste on \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/tours.asp\">a tour\u003c/a> with some chef and wine industry friends at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/creme-fraiche560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/creme-fraiche560.jpg\" alt=\"creme fraiche\" title=\"creme fraiche\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39334\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Crème fraîche\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The first tasting was crème fraîche:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCrème fraîche is made from a simple heavy cream with a little bifidus culture added to make it tangy. The cheese is made exclusively from Straus milk obtained from the original herd, something that is pretty hard to come by these days. The team at Cowgirl lovingly refers to it as their \"estate-bottled milk.\" What I didn't know about crème fraîche is that the older it gets, the better it is! Although a film may form on the top of the cheese, it can be removed and thrown out, and the crème fraîche underneath is improved by ageing. The budding novice cheesemaker can purchase their own heavy cream, add a little crème fraîche, and use it as a \"mother\" to create their own. At Cowgirl, the crème fraîche is the building block for all of their other fresh cheeses. I'd never thought of cheese as a \"live food before,\" but it's true: the lacto bifidus in many cheeses creates an ever-changing product that only improves with some age.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/fromage-blanc5602.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/fromage-blanc5602.jpg\" alt=\"Fromage Blanc\" title=\"Fromage Blanc\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39341\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fromage Blanc\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Next on the tasting menu was fromage blanc:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe second-to-simplest cheese made at Cowgirl, fromage blanc is made by heating milk, adding the culture (lactus bifidus) to create acids and coagulate the milk, and hanging the resulting cheesecloth overnight to drain out the whey. The resulting cream cheese is a crisp, clear, clean cream cheese without any cloying xanthan gum. It tastes absolutely unlike anything I've ever had on a bagel and I know I'll never be able to eat \u003ca href=\"http://www.kraftbrands.com/philly/Pages/default.aspx\">Philadelphia\u003c/a> again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/clabbered-cottage400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/clabbered-cottage400.jpg\" alt=\"Cheesemonger cottage\" title=\"Cheesemonger cottage\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39343\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Manager Michael Zilber discusses clabbered cottage cheese\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Then, it was time to try the clabbered cottage cheese:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis cheese is the first one that Sue ever made, and we hear it's the one she's still most proud of. Traditionally, cottage cheese is made from the nonfat milk that's left over from the day's butter-making. The milk is turned into whey and mixed with fresh cream from the morning's milking, which is why cottage cheese is traditionally a breakfast cheese. This cheese has great acidity and texture, and we're told it can be substituted for ricotta in almost any recipe. This cheese won a blue ribbon from the American Cheese Society in 2005, making it ostensibly the best cottage cheese in the USA. \"What it comes down to is highlighting the high-quality milk,\" says our guide, cheesemonger/manager Michael Zilber, modestly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>AGED CHEESES\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAfter a year of making fresh cheeses, Sue decides to try her hand at making some aged cheeses. At the time, a Dutch dairy scientist was interning at Cowgirl. With his input, the creamery as it is today was designed, and Cowgirl made its first soft aged cheese: basically a creamy Gouda. Many tests-and-repeats later, Cowgirl is probably known best for its famous Mount Tam cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mount Tam:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWe learned that cheese ripens from the outside in, which can be noticed in the three different textures of the triangle of Mount Tam we were given to examine, sniff, and taste. The rind, which is made from candida mold that has broken down the milk and made a seal, is white and fluffy. Just inside the rind there's a ribbon of ripe cheese, and inside of that, the center of the cheese is a firm, bright white. \"To really dork out on soft cheeses,\" says our guide, \"first taste the center, and taste the ripe part of the cheese second. For the third nibble, taste the two parts together.\" All three bites had their own distinct flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/mount-tam5602.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/mount-tam5602.jpg\" alt=\"Mount Tam\" title=\"Mount Tam\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39351\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Three stages of ripeness in one slice of Mount Tam\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, says Zilber, \"anyone who says they are lactose-intolerant should be able to eat aged, soft cheeses.\" Why? \"The cultures added to the cheese eat all of the lactose after a few days of aging and turn it into lactic acid.\" Hence, the slightly acidic, citrusy tang we taste in a newer cheese. The mold feeds on that acid, sweetening the cheese. \"So a cheese's rind not only seals but sweetens the cheese.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Red Hawk:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe next cheese we tasted was the Red Hawk, which is made similarly to the Mount Tam. After two weeks of aging, the fluffy candida mold is scrubbed off of the cheese and it's washed with salt water. (Some cheesemakers will wash the rinds with beer or wine at this stage of cheesemaking.) The saline prevents more white fluffy mold from growing and then nature takes over. \u003ca href=\"http://www.cheesemaking.com/store/p/134-Bacteria-Linens-Red-1-pack.html\">B. Linens\u003c/a> mold from the air grows on the cheeses giving them their nuttiness and a slight funk. B. Linens mold is a naturally-occurring mold in the air--it's what makes stinky cheeses like Limberger stinky. Red Hawk represents the terroir of West Marin--it cannot be made in Petaluma, because the air doesn't have the mold. It is a true American original: the only known washed-rind, triple-cream soft cheese in the world. Pair it with a true Sauternes or a hoppy IPA.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/red-hawk560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/red-hawk560.jpg\" alt=\"Red Hawk\" title=\"Red Hawk\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39353\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Individual slices of the washed rind, triple-cream Red Hawk\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Devil's Gulch:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis seasonal cheese is soft and aged, with a sweet and spicy pepper rind. Cowgirl's seasonal cheese is the same cheese year-round, with different herbs to finish the rind. The cheese itself is a washed rind, similar to the Red Hawk but the milk is from a Jersey cow farm. There is no cream added to the cheese because the fat content in Jersey cow milk is higher than that of Holstein cows, which is where the \"estate-bottled\" Straus milk comes from. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/devils-gulch560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/devils-gulch560.jpg\" alt=\"Devils Gulch\" title=\"Devils Gulch\" width=\"560\" height=\"474\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39355\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Homegrown dried pepper rind on Devil's Gulch cheese\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Wagon Wheel:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAfter years of making fresh cheeses and soft aged cheeses, Cowgirl's cheesemakers wanted an \"everyday cheese that they could cook with,\" says Zilber. Wagon Wheel is their first hard-aged cheese. The process is the same as with an asiago, says Zilber. He's right that Wagon Wheel is a great melting cheese: we bought out Tomales Bay Foods' stock of \u003ca href=\"http://www.barbeclette.com/\">Barbaclette\u003c/a> and spent the rest of the afternoon melting it over the barbecues at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.hogislandoysters.com/farm/location\">Hog Island Oyster Company\u003c/a> for lunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wagon-wheel560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wagon-wheel560.jpg\" alt=\"Wagon Wheel\" title=\"Wagon Wheel\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39357\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cowgirl's first hard cheese awaits a melting\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/barbaclette560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/barbaclette560.jpg\" alt=\"Barbaclette\" title=\"Barbaclette\" width=\"560\" height=\"262\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39359\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cowgirl's Wagon Wheel melts on the grill\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/index.html\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nCowgirl Creamery \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/tours.asp\">Tours\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/CowgirlCreamery?ref=ts&sk=wall\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/cowgirlcreamery\">@cowgirlcreamery\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Cowgirl Creamery, a forerunner of the artisanal foods movement in the Bay Area, has been producing organic cheese in West Marin for 15 years. Here is a recap of a tasting tour, some history of the creamery and information about many of the Cowgirl cheeses.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Once upon a time, two childhood friends drove a Volkswagen bus across the country to Berkeley. \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/bios.asp#susan\">Sue Conley\u003c/a> opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.bettesdiner.com/\">Bette's Ocean Diner\u003c/a> in Berkeley and worked at Betty's and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/bios.asp#peggy\">Peggy Smith\u003c/a> cooked at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> for 17 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After some decades of culinary success, the two were ready for a new challenge. Their concept was essentially a marketing vehicle for local organic farms like \u003ca href=\"http://www.strausfamilycreamery.com/\">Straus Family Creamery\u003c/a> which was the first organic dairy farm west of the Mississippi. One of them fell in love with the Point Reyes National Park, and the other fell in love with a park ranger. \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/wholesale.asp\">Tomales Bay Foods\u003c/a> was founded in 1993.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Tomales-Bay-Foods_560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Tomales-Bay-Foods_560.jpg\" alt=\"Tomales Bay Foods\" title=\"Tomales Bay Foods\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39332\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tomales Bay Foods\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The vision for Tomales Bay Foods was a place where people could come and buy and eat local products grown and made in West Marin. Sue dreamt of a European-style cheese counter, something that didn't quite exist even in the food-forward Bay Area at that time. Four years later an old hay barn was renovated into the market that we know today, housing the cheesemaking facility, an organic produce stand, a natural-fabric clothing shop, an artisan cheese counter and a deli. Eventually, Sue and Peggy tried their hands at making some \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/cheeses.asp\">simple fresh cheeses\u003c/a>--all of which I was lucky enough to taste on \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/tours.asp\">a tour\u003c/a> with some chef and wine industry friends at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/creme-fraiche560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/creme-fraiche560.jpg\" alt=\"creme fraiche\" title=\"creme fraiche\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39334\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Crème fraîche\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The first tasting was crème fraîche:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCrème fraîche is made from a simple heavy cream with a little bifidus culture added to make it tangy. The cheese is made exclusively from Straus milk obtained from the original herd, something that is pretty hard to come by these days. The team at Cowgirl lovingly refers to it as their \"estate-bottled milk.\" What I didn't know about crème fraîche is that the older it gets, the better it is! Although a film may form on the top of the cheese, it can be removed and thrown out, and the crème fraîche underneath is improved by ageing. The budding novice cheesemaker can purchase their own heavy cream, add a little crème fraîche, and use it as a \"mother\" to create their own. At Cowgirl, the crème fraîche is the building block for all of their other fresh cheeses. I'd never thought of cheese as a \"live food before,\" but it's true: the lacto bifidus in many cheeses creates an ever-changing product that only improves with some age.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/fromage-blanc5602.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/fromage-blanc5602.jpg\" alt=\"Fromage Blanc\" title=\"Fromage Blanc\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39341\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fromage Blanc\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Next on the tasting menu was fromage blanc:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe second-to-simplest cheese made at Cowgirl, fromage blanc is made by heating milk, adding the culture (lactus bifidus) to create acids and coagulate the milk, and hanging the resulting cheesecloth overnight to drain out the whey. The resulting cream cheese is a crisp, clear, clean cream cheese without any cloying xanthan gum. It tastes absolutely unlike anything I've ever had on a bagel and I know I'll never be able to eat \u003ca href=\"http://www.kraftbrands.com/philly/Pages/default.aspx\">Philadelphia\u003c/a> again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/clabbered-cottage400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/clabbered-cottage400.jpg\" alt=\"Cheesemonger cottage\" title=\"Cheesemonger cottage\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39343\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Manager Michael Zilber discusses clabbered cottage cheese\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Then, it was time to try the clabbered cottage cheese:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis cheese is the first one that Sue ever made, and we hear it's the one she's still most proud of. Traditionally, cottage cheese is made from the nonfat milk that's left over from the day's butter-making. The milk is turned into whey and mixed with fresh cream from the morning's milking, which is why cottage cheese is traditionally a breakfast cheese. This cheese has great acidity and texture, and we're told it can be substituted for ricotta in almost any recipe. This cheese won a blue ribbon from the American Cheese Society in 2005, making it ostensibly the best cottage cheese in the USA. \"What it comes down to is highlighting the high-quality milk,\" says our guide, cheesemonger/manager Michael Zilber, modestly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>AGED CHEESES\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAfter a year of making fresh cheeses, Sue decides to try her hand at making some aged cheeses. At the time, a Dutch dairy scientist was interning at Cowgirl. With his input, the creamery as it is today was designed, and Cowgirl made its first soft aged cheese: basically a creamy Gouda. Many tests-and-repeats later, Cowgirl is probably known best for its famous Mount Tam cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mount Tam:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWe learned that cheese ripens from the outside in, which can be noticed in the three different textures of the triangle of Mount Tam we were given to examine, sniff, and taste. The rind, which is made from candida mold that has broken down the milk and made a seal, is white and fluffy. Just inside the rind there's a ribbon of ripe cheese, and inside of that, the center of the cheese is a firm, bright white. \"To really dork out on soft cheeses,\" says our guide, \"first taste the center, and taste the ripe part of the cheese second. For the third nibble, taste the two parts together.\" All three bites had their own distinct flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/mount-tam5602.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/mount-tam5602.jpg\" alt=\"Mount Tam\" title=\"Mount Tam\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39351\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Three stages of ripeness in one slice of Mount Tam\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, says Zilber, \"anyone who says they are lactose-intolerant should be able to eat aged, soft cheeses.\" Why? \"The cultures added to the cheese eat all of the lactose after a few days of aging and turn it into lactic acid.\" Hence, the slightly acidic, citrusy tang we taste in a newer cheese. The mold feeds on that acid, sweetening the cheese. \"So a cheese's rind not only seals but sweetens the cheese.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Red Hawk:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe next cheese we tasted was the Red Hawk, which is made similarly to the Mount Tam. After two weeks of aging, the fluffy candida mold is scrubbed off of the cheese and it's washed with salt water. (Some cheesemakers will wash the rinds with beer or wine at this stage of cheesemaking.) The saline prevents more white fluffy mold from growing and then nature takes over. \u003ca href=\"http://www.cheesemaking.com/store/p/134-Bacteria-Linens-Red-1-pack.html\">B. Linens\u003c/a> mold from the air grows on the cheeses giving them their nuttiness and a slight funk. B. Linens mold is a naturally-occurring mold in the air--it's what makes stinky cheeses like Limberger stinky. Red Hawk represents the terroir of West Marin--it cannot be made in Petaluma, because the air doesn't have the mold. It is a true American original: the only known washed-rind, triple-cream soft cheese in the world. Pair it with a true Sauternes or a hoppy IPA.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/red-hawk560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/red-hawk560.jpg\" alt=\"Red Hawk\" title=\"Red Hawk\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39353\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Individual slices of the washed rind, triple-cream Red Hawk\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Devil's Gulch:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis seasonal cheese is soft and aged, with a sweet and spicy pepper rind. Cowgirl's seasonal cheese is the same cheese year-round, with different herbs to finish the rind. The cheese itself is a washed rind, similar to the Red Hawk but the milk is from a Jersey cow farm. There is no cream added to the cheese because the fat content in Jersey cow milk is higher than that of Holstein cows, which is where the \"estate-bottled\" Straus milk comes from. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/devils-gulch560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/devils-gulch560.jpg\" alt=\"Devils Gulch\" title=\"Devils Gulch\" width=\"560\" height=\"474\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39355\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Homegrown dried pepper rind on Devil's Gulch cheese\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Wagon Wheel:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAfter years of making fresh cheeses and soft aged cheeses, Cowgirl's cheesemakers wanted an \"everyday cheese that they could cook with,\" says Zilber. Wagon Wheel is their first hard-aged cheese. The process is the same as with an asiago, says Zilber. He's right that Wagon Wheel is a great melting cheese: we bought out Tomales Bay Foods' stock of \u003ca href=\"http://www.barbeclette.com/\">Barbaclette\u003c/a> and spent the rest of the afternoon melting it over the barbecues at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.hogislandoysters.com/farm/location\">Hog Island Oyster Company\u003c/a> for lunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wagon-wheel560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wagon-wheel560.jpg\" alt=\"Wagon Wheel\" title=\"Wagon Wheel\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39357\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cowgirl's first hard cheese awaits a melting\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/barbaclette560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/barbaclette560.jpg\" alt=\"Barbaclette\" title=\"Barbaclette\" width=\"560\" height=\"262\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39359\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cowgirl's Wagon Wheel melts on the grill\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/index.html\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nCowgirl Creamery \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/tours.asp\">Tours\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/CowgirlCreamery?ref=ts&sk=wall\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/cowgirlcreamery\">@cowgirlcreamery\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "On the Plate with Wise Sons Jewish Deli",
"title": "On the Plate with Wise Sons Jewish Deli",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wise-sons-store-front-new.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-39285\" title=\"Wise Sons Jewish Deli\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wise-sons-store-front-new.jpg\" alt=\"Wise Sons Jewish Deli\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\">\u003c/a>Much ado has been made of the new permanent home of \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons\" href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com/\">Wise Sons\u003c/a> -- the first Jewish deli in the Mission and, arguably, the only Jewish deli in San Francisco worth eating. The powerful but petite eatery’s proprietors, Evan Bloom and Leo Beckerman, have become \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Inside Scoop\" href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2012/02/17/wise-sons-jewish-delicatessen-is-now-open-in-the-mission/\">local media darlings\u003c/a>, featured everywhere from a \u003ca title=\"Beckerman on Eater SF\" href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2012/02/14/hottest_chef_round_2.php\">fiery hot chef competition\u003c/a>, to \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Grub Street\" href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/2012/02/step_inside_wise_sons_jewish_d.html\">blogs\u003c/a>, \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons in J Weekly\" href=\"http://www.jweekly.com/article/full/64326/wise-sons-owners-new-deli-will-open-by-months-end/\">newspapers\u003c/a>, and upcoming in \u003ca title=\"Sunset Magazine\" href=\"http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CE8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sunset.com%2F&ei=UQtHT6CqGuiYiAKJyondDQ&usg=AFQjCNFJsO0Hsulmw8L7Vlb6TUO1v9LZsA\">Sunset\u003c/a> magazine and perhaps on local TV show \u003ca title=\"Dine and Dish\" href=\"http://www.kron.com/Reporters/DineandDish.aspx\">Dine and Dish\u003c/a>. I myself, giddy after finding the long-craved \u003ca title=\"2nd Avenue Deli\" href=\"http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCoQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.2ndavedeli.com%2F&ei=WBdHT-G5JOHViAKS8vXaDQ&usg=AFQjCNH2Bsbv7nUgpuxwKPW-dozvcavc-g\">2nd Avenue Deli\u003c/a>-quality eats of my people, gushed about them in this \u003ca title=\"SFoodie on Wise Sons\" href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2011/12/karen_solomons_2011_find_prope.php\">public love letter\u003c/a> earlier this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But while the excitement of the experience has tongues wagging (mmmm…could we get some tongue on the menu, please?) what has not been fully explored is the uncompromising heritage and quality of the food. “We’re not a factory,” explains Beckerman. “We’re all about education -- keeping this food and this culture alive and sharing it. The level of attention and detail we put into our work,” -- brining and smoking the meat, baking the rye, preserving the pickles and jams, and making every single thing in-house from scratch or buying from top-quality local purveyors who do so -- “this is truly slow food. That’s what people deserve.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/interior-wise-sons560.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39292\" title=\"Wise Sons interior. Photo by Stephanie Rosenbaum\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/interior-wise-sons560.jpg\" alt=\"Wise Sons interior. Photo by Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wise Sons interior. Photo by Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bloom and Beckerman grew dissatisfied with their careers in construction management (Bloom) and non-profit medical development (Beckerman), and came together because of their love for food. Through kitchen experimentation and recipe development, the menu is a continuing work in progress. Its influences come from a number of sources -- the glossy cookbooks of \u003ca title=\"Joan Nathan\" href=\"http://joannathan.com/\">Joan Nathan\u003c/a> and \u003ca title=\"Secrets of a Jewish Baker\" href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Secrets-Jewish-Baker-Recipes-Breads/dp/1580088449/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1330059437&sr=1-1\">Secrets of a Jewish Baker\u003c/a>, as well as spiral-bound DIY cookbooks from synagogues, Jewish community centers, temple sisterhoods and the like, “each featuring six different recipes for Matzo Ball Soup, all slightly different, as well as Mrs. Schmendrick’s Husband’s Favorite Soup,” says Beckerman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Wise Sons \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons menu\" href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/wisesons_menu_feb17.jpg\">menu\u003c/a> also owes a huge debt to Oliver, a family friend who was monumental in developing the house recipe for bialys (“Ollie’s Bialys,” quips Beckerman), as well as hand-written recipes on 3x5 index cards from Beckerman’s grandmother’s recipe file. “I went through that box with her before she passed away and asked her if I could take the ones I wanted. That was a nice passing on of recipes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"560\" height=\"420\" classid=\"d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000\" codebase=\"http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2F&set_id=72157629076046350&jump_to=\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"src\" value=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\">\u003cparam name=\"allowfullscreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cembed width=\"560\" height=\"420\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\" flashvars=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2F&set_id=72157629076046350&jump_to=\" allowfullscreen=\"true\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing served, however, is verbatim of any written formula, family-derived or otherwise. The challah is on the sweet side, and even though Wise Sons is not a kosher eatery, they opt out of butter in the recipe to keep it \u003ca title=\"Definition of Parve\" href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/tools/fooddictionary/entry/?id=3809\">parve\u003c/a>. And because it’s 2012, it’s topped with flaked sea salt just to make it awesome. And while Beckerman, who oversees most of the baking while Bloom takes on the meat and the savories, wanted to make his grandmother’s babke with nuts, raisins, and meringue, they opted for chocolate instead. “We ended up going in a different direction,” says Beckerman. “As soon as you put in nuts and raisins, it narrows down the audience. People have allergies.” Right. This is, after all, San Francisco and not the 1947 Lower East Side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The brisket for the pastrami and corned beef is cut to Wise Sons’ specifications by \u003ca title=\"Creekstone Farms\" href=\"http://www.creekstonefarms.com/\">Creekstone Farms\u003c/a> in Kansas. But why not use what’s local and grass fed? Beckerman unapologetically explains, “The truth is that we found out that grass fed animals are much smaller and too lean, and the pastrami doesn’t come out as nice. There aren’t enough cows in the Bay Area to do what we do,” -- which, on an average Tuesday at their Ferry Building kiosk, can easily mean 150-200 lbs. of beef and still a lengthy line-up of customers craving Reubens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/door-quote-560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/door-quote-560.jpg\" alt=\"In America You Can Eat Challah Everyday. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" title=\"In America You Can Eat Challah Everyday. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39295\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beckerman and Bloom’s brand loyalty for ingredients is unbending. The chicken soup starts with \u003ca href=\"http://www.maryschickens.com/\">Mary’s\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.fultonvalley.com/\">Fulton Valley\u003c/a>. The matzo and matzo meal is \u003ca href=\"http://www.streitsmatzos.com/\">Streits\u003c/a>. The flour is \u003ca href=\"http://giustos.com/\">Giusto’s\u003c/a>. And, true story: I wanted to buy a whole babke to send to my mother for Chanukah last December, but I was out of luck because the particular \u003ca href=\"http://www.guittard.com/\">Guittard\u003c/a> chocolate used in the recipe -- E. Guittard 72 percent cacao -- wasn’t available. And rather than settle for a chocolate substitute, Beckerman told me, there just wasn’t going to be any. This is the same reason you’ll only find bagels on Saturdays -- when \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/beautysbagelshop\">Beauty's\u003c/a> can deliver them. “I’d rather serve no bagels than crappy bagels,” he says. “Do you want twice as much of something half as good?” Wise words, indeed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca title=\"Wise Sons Deli\" href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com/\">Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3150 24th St\u003cbr>\n(415)787-DELI\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Wednesday through Sunday, 9am to 3pm. Closed Monday. Serving Tuesdays at the Ferry Building 10am to 2pm.\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Twitter\" href=\"http://twitter.com/WiseSonsDeli\">@WiseSonsDeli\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Facebook\" href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wise-Sons-Jewish-Delicatessen/165956736780396\">Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Much ado has been made of the new permanent home of Wise Sons -- the only Jewish deli in San Francisco worth eating. But while the excitement of the experience has tongues wagging what has not been fully explored is the uncompromising heritage and quality of the food.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wise-sons-store-front-new.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-39285\" title=\"Wise Sons Jewish Deli\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wise-sons-store-front-new.jpg\" alt=\"Wise Sons Jewish Deli\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\">\u003c/a>Much ado has been made of the new permanent home of \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons\" href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com/\">Wise Sons\u003c/a> -- the first Jewish deli in the Mission and, arguably, the only Jewish deli in San Francisco worth eating. The powerful but petite eatery’s proprietors, Evan Bloom and Leo Beckerman, have become \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Inside Scoop\" href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2012/02/17/wise-sons-jewish-delicatessen-is-now-open-in-the-mission/\">local media darlings\u003c/a>, featured everywhere from a \u003ca title=\"Beckerman on Eater SF\" href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2012/02/14/hottest_chef_round_2.php\">fiery hot chef competition\u003c/a>, to \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Grub Street\" href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/2012/02/step_inside_wise_sons_jewish_d.html\">blogs\u003c/a>, \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons in J Weekly\" href=\"http://www.jweekly.com/article/full/64326/wise-sons-owners-new-deli-will-open-by-months-end/\">newspapers\u003c/a>, and upcoming in \u003ca title=\"Sunset Magazine\" href=\"http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CE8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sunset.com%2F&ei=UQtHT6CqGuiYiAKJyondDQ&usg=AFQjCNFJsO0Hsulmw8L7Vlb6TUO1v9LZsA\">Sunset\u003c/a> magazine and perhaps on local TV show \u003ca title=\"Dine and Dish\" href=\"http://www.kron.com/Reporters/DineandDish.aspx\">Dine and Dish\u003c/a>. I myself, giddy after finding the long-craved \u003ca title=\"2nd Avenue Deli\" href=\"http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCoQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.2ndavedeli.com%2F&ei=WBdHT-G5JOHViAKS8vXaDQ&usg=AFQjCNH2Bsbv7nUgpuxwKPW-dozvcavc-g\">2nd Avenue Deli\u003c/a>-quality eats of my people, gushed about them in this \u003ca title=\"SFoodie on Wise Sons\" href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2011/12/karen_solomons_2011_find_prope.php\">public love letter\u003c/a> earlier this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But while the excitement of the experience has tongues wagging (mmmm…could we get some tongue on the menu, please?) what has not been fully explored is the uncompromising heritage and quality of the food. “We’re not a factory,” explains Beckerman. “We’re all about education -- keeping this food and this culture alive and sharing it. The level of attention and detail we put into our work,” -- brining and smoking the meat, baking the rye, preserving the pickles and jams, and making every single thing in-house from scratch or buying from top-quality local purveyors who do so -- “this is truly slow food. That’s what people deserve.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/interior-wise-sons560.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39292\" title=\"Wise Sons interior. Photo by Stephanie Rosenbaum\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/interior-wise-sons560.jpg\" alt=\"Wise Sons interior. Photo by Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wise Sons interior. Photo by Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bloom and Beckerman grew dissatisfied with their careers in construction management (Bloom) and non-profit medical development (Beckerman), and came together because of their love for food. Through kitchen experimentation and recipe development, the menu is a continuing work in progress. Its influences come from a number of sources -- the glossy cookbooks of \u003ca title=\"Joan Nathan\" href=\"http://joannathan.com/\">Joan Nathan\u003c/a> and \u003ca title=\"Secrets of a Jewish Baker\" href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Secrets-Jewish-Baker-Recipes-Breads/dp/1580088449/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1330059437&sr=1-1\">Secrets of a Jewish Baker\u003c/a>, as well as spiral-bound DIY cookbooks from synagogues, Jewish community centers, temple sisterhoods and the like, “each featuring six different recipes for Matzo Ball Soup, all slightly different, as well as Mrs. Schmendrick’s Husband’s Favorite Soup,” says Beckerman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Wise Sons \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons menu\" href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/wisesons_menu_feb17.jpg\">menu\u003c/a> also owes a huge debt to Oliver, a family friend who was monumental in developing the house recipe for bialys (“Ollie’s Bialys,” quips Beckerman), as well as hand-written recipes on 3x5 index cards from Beckerman’s grandmother’s recipe file. “I went through that box with her before she passed away and asked her if I could take the ones I wanted. That was a nice passing on of recipes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"560\" height=\"420\" classid=\"d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000\" codebase=\"http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2F&set_id=72157629076046350&jump_to=\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"src\" value=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\">\u003cparam name=\"allowfullscreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cembed width=\"560\" height=\"420\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\" flashvars=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2F&set_id=72157629076046350&jump_to=\" allowfullscreen=\"true\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing served, however, is verbatim of any written formula, family-derived or otherwise. The challah is on the sweet side, and even though Wise Sons is not a kosher eatery, they opt out of butter in the recipe to keep it \u003ca title=\"Definition of Parve\" href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/tools/fooddictionary/entry/?id=3809\">parve\u003c/a>. And because it’s 2012, it’s topped with flaked sea salt just to make it awesome. And while Beckerman, who oversees most of the baking while Bloom takes on the meat and the savories, wanted to make his grandmother’s babke with nuts, raisins, and meringue, they opted for chocolate instead. “We ended up going in a different direction,” says Beckerman. “As soon as you put in nuts and raisins, it narrows down the audience. People have allergies.” Right. This is, after all, San Francisco and not the 1947 Lower East Side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The brisket for the pastrami and corned beef is cut to Wise Sons’ specifications by \u003ca title=\"Creekstone Farms\" href=\"http://www.creekstonefarms.com/\">Creekstone Farms\u003c/a> in Kansas. But why not use what’s local and grass fed? Beckerman unapologetically explains, “The truth is that we found out that grass fed animals are much smaller and too lean, and the pastrami doesn’t come out as nice. There aren’t enough cows in the Bay Area to do what we do,” -- which, on an average Tuesday at their Ferry Building kiosk, can easily mean 150-200 lbs. of beef and still a lengthy line-up of customers craving Reubens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/door-quote-560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/door-quote-560.jpg\" alt=\"In America You Can Eat Challah Everyday. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" title=\"In America You Can Eat Challah Everyday. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39295\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beckerman and Bloom’s brand loyalty for ingredients is unbending. The chicken soup starts with \u003ca href=\"http://www.maryschickens.com/\">Mary’s\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.fultonvalley.com/\">Fulton Valley\u003c/a>. The matzo and matzo meal is \u003ca href=\"http://www.streitsmatzos.com/\">Streits\u003c/a>. The flour is \u003ca href=\"http://giustos.com/\">Giusto’s\u003c/a>. And, true story: I wanted to buy a whole babke to send to my mother for Chanukah last December, but I was out of luck because the particular \u003ca href=\"http://www.guittard.com/\">Guittard\u003c/a> chocolate used in the recipe -- E. Guittard 72 percent cacao -- wasn’t available. And rather than settle for a chocolate substitute, Beckerman told me, there just wasn’t going to be any. This is the same reason you’ll only find bagels on Saturdays -- when \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/beautysbagelshop\">Beauty's\u003c/a> can deliver them. “I’d rather serve no bagels than crappy bagels,” he says. “Do you want twice as much of something half as good?” Wise words, indeed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca title=\"Wise Sons Deli\" href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com/\">Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3150 24th St\u003cbr>\n(415)787-DELI\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Wednesday through Sunday, 9am to 3pm. Closed Monday. Serving Tuesdays at the Ferry Building 10am to 2pm.\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Twitter\" href=\"http://twitter.com/WiseSonsDeli\">@WiseSonsDeli\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Facebook\" href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wise-Sons-Jewish-Delicatessen/165956736780396\">Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "2nd Annual Good Food Awards",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/caleb-ruth-alice.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/caleb-ruth-alice.jpg\" alt=\"Caleb Zigas of La Cocina, Ruth Reichl, and Alice Waters, at the Good Food Awards.\" title=\"Caleb Zigas of La Cocina, Ruth Reichl, and Alice Waters, at the Good Food Awards.\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37686\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Caleb Zigas of La Cocina, Ruth Reichl, and Alice Waters, at the Good Food Awards.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://www.ruthreichl.com/\">Ruth Reichl\u003c/a> was standing in front of a gigantic American flag hanging like a banner along the wall of the Ferry Building on Friday, January 13th. It was a backdrop worthy of any Presidential hopeful stumping for votes in the heartland, but here, the stars and stripes were evoking not just Mom and apple pie but Mom's apple pie, and maybe great-granddaddy's moonshine, and now their kids' apple-whiskey chutney and curried cauliflower pickles. It was time to welcome the room of makers and media, gathered in San Francisco for the 2nd annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a>, a celebration of the best of artisanal food production from coast to coast. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Most of you are too young to have grown up in the white-bread world that I did,\" said Reichl. Every cheese was sliced and wrapped in plastic, all strawberries were huge and tasted like cotton. This changed, slowly, through the work of pioneers like Alice Waters, sitting off to one side of the podium, as well as dozens of other food pioneers. Reichl remembered the first time she walked into \u003ca href=\"http://cheeseboardcollective.coop/\">The Cheeseboard\u003c/a>, in Berkeley and was handed a taste of \u003ca href=\"http://www.laurachenel.com/\">Laura Chenel\u003c/a>'s Sonoma-made fresh goat cheese. Reichl lived on it all that summer, and knew that she had to meet the woman making something so new (to American tastes) and so delicious. Then there was \"Artists of the Earth,\" an article she wrote for California magazine in the early 1980s, profiling nine men and women making a difference in the food world and beyond. \"They are some of California's most valuable resources,\" she wrote then, \"...perfectionists who work very hard not because they expect to get rich but simply because they expect to get the best.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Walking through Chino Ranch with Alice a few years later, she was amazed at the quality of produce surrounding them. Corn so sweet it needed no cooking. Strawberries so intensely fragrant that every fellow traveler on the small plane she and Alice were taking from San Diego to Oakland came up and begged for a berry off the flats they were carrying in their laps. \"Every person said, 'I forgot strawberries could smell like that! Please, can I just have one?'\" she recounted. \"And I watched Alice give away that night's dessert for \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a>, because how could she say no?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Back then, I never could have dreamed how huge the change was going to be. We now live in a country that has the best produce in the world...We are reclaiming our edible heritage. \"Thank you for giving us the America we once dreamed we could have.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>After this came the awards, 99 products in eight categories (coffee, chocolate, charcuterie, pickles, preserves, cheese, beer, spirits). There were no single winners; instead, each category had a fat handful of top picks, from seven coffee roasters to 14 preserve-makers. \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/good-food-awards-winners-2012/\">The winners\u003c/a>, like food-world Olympians, got medallions stamped in the shape of the tools of their trade--a cleaver, a canning jar--strung on wide red-white-and-blue ribbons to hang around their necks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was hard not to feel a little hometown, homestate pride at the fine showing the Bay Area, and California, made in the final running. Two local beers made the cut, at opposite ends of the brewing spectrum: from San Leandro, \u003ca href=\"http://www.drakesbrewingcompany.com\">Drake's Brewing Company\u003c/a>'s high-alcohol, rich-as-devil's-food \u003cstrong>Drakonic Imperial Stout\u003c/strong>, and from Petaluma, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.lagunitas.com\">Lagunitas Brewing Company\u003c/a>'s spritzy, grapefruity ale, dubbed \u003cstrong>A Lil' Sumpin' Sumpin'\u003c/strong>. In the coffee category, \u003ca href=\"http://www.equatorcoffees.com\">Equator Coffees\u003c/a> from San Rafael won for its fair trade/organic Ethiopian Watadera beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In pickles, California snagged three of the 11 winning picks, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmhouseculture.com\">Farmhouse Culture\u003c/a>'s \u003cstrong>Smoked Jalapeno Sauerkraut,\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://emmyspicklesandjams.com/\">Emmy's Pickles and Jams\u003c/a>' \u003cstrong>Turmeric Cauliflower,\u003c/strong> and the \u003cstrong>Devil Sauce\u003c/strong> made by \u003ca href=\"http://www.letsbefrankdogs.com\">Let's Be Frank\u003c/a>, of grass-fed hot-dog truck fame. (And we'll give a California hug to OlyKraut, which was founded by Sash Sunday, a former San Franciscan who got into the kraut biz shortly after relocating to Olympia, WA. Plus, she makes nettle kraut!) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/olykraut560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/olykraut560.jpg\" alt=\"OlyKraut, from left: Sash Sunday, Alexia Crousnillon, Nate Masse not pictured: Summer Bock\" title=\"OlyKraut, From left: Sash Sunday, Alexia Crousnillon, Nate Masse not pictured: Summer Bock\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37689\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>OlyKraut, from left: Sash Sunday, Alexia Crousnillon, Nate Massé (not pictured: Summer Bock)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We tied with New York in the cutthroat preserves category, winning for \u003ca href=\"http://www.artisanpreserves.com/\">Artisan Preserves'\u003c/a> \u003cstrong>Orange Honey Marmalade,\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://shop.chezpim.com/\">Chez Pim\u003c/a>'s \u003cstrong>Blueberry-Golden Raspberry Preserves,\u003c/strong> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.wineforest.com\">Wine Forest Wild Foods'\u003c/a> \u003cstrong>Wild Elderberry Shrub.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/WYLIEWHISKEY560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/WYLIEWHISKEY560.jpg\" alt=\"Wylie Whiskey\" title=\"Wylie Whiskey\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37684\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wylie Whiskey, from left: Matt Jones, Garrett Hale, Sarah Swearington.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a cascade of riches from our part of the Golden State: Costa Rican chocolate bars from \u003ca href=\"http://www.dandelionchocolate.com/\">Dandelion Chocolate\u003c/a> in SF; white whiskey from \u003ca href=\"http://www.wyliehowell.com\">Wylie Howell Spirits\u003c/a> in Petaluma; \u003cstrong>Carmody\u003c/strong> (my favorite!) and \u003cstrong>whole-milk ricotta\u003c/strong> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.bellwethercheese.com\">Bellwether Farms\u003c/a> in West Marin; \u003cstrong>yogurt cheese\u003c/strong> from Sonoma's \u003ca href=\"http://www.stbenoit.com\">St. Benoit\u003c/a>, \u003cstrong>pork, rabbit, and duck terrine\u003c/strong> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com\">Fatted Calf\u003c/a> in SF and Napa; \u003cstrong>speck\u003c/strong> from Oakland wine bar/salumeria \u003ca href=\"http://www.dopoadesso.com/adesso/\">Adesso\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/dandelionchoc560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/dandelionchoc560.jpg\" alt=\"From left: Alice Nystrom, Todd Masonis of Dandelion Chocolate\" title=\"From left: Alice Nystrom, Todd Masonis of Dandelion Chocolate\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37687\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dandelion Chocolate: Alice Nystrom, Todd Masonis\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Come the next morning, many of the previous night's winners were out in force at the Good Food Awards Marketplace, a tasting/selling spread of tables organized by category set up under the archways of the Ferry Building. Reichl, who now runs the specialty food (and content) site \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilttaste.com/\">Gilt Taste\u003c/a>, was on hand with a keen appetite, even after a late-night dinner with Alice and friends at Locanda in the Mission. Already, she's tried the chilaquiles and shrimp ceviche at the Primavera market stand, and tells me, joyfully, of the \"best breakfast sandwich\" she's ever had, from \u003ca href=\"http://www.4505meats.com\">4505 Meats\u003c/a>: a soft, buttery brioche bun piled with a maple-bacon sausage patty, an oozy-centered fried egg, and a frizz of snappy peppercress. Speaking of her talk the previous night, she laughed at the thought of trying to profile just eight makers now. \"At the time, it was hard to find even eight people, enough to write about. I had to include a produce distributor, a guy who was raising pigs and lambs for Chez Panisse. Now, that would be ridiculous. You'd have to write an encyclopedia!\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If anything, she thinks we're underestimating the strength and staying power of the artisan movement. Already, the food makers' landscape has changed drastically in just the past five years. In the next five, ten years, what will it look like? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/KathrynLukasFarmhouseCulture560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/KathrynLukasFarmhouseCulture560.jpg\" alt=\"Kathryn Lukas of Farmhouse Culture\" title=\"Kathryn Lukas of Farmhouse Culture\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37688\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Kathryn Lukas of Farmhouse Culture\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's no doubt, though, that the movement is fostering ever-closer relationships between chefs, makers and farmers. These products, from basil vodka to sea-vegetable kraut, are only as good as their raw ingredients. Recounting a cabbage blight that decimated the California crop last year, Farmhouse Culture founder Kathryn Lukas quoted Let's Be Frank's Larry Bain, laughing, \"It's hard when you're in business with God.\"\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/caleb-ruth-alice.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/caleb-ruth-alice.jpg\" alt=\"Caleb Zigas of La Cocina, Ruth Reichl, and Alice Waters, at the Good Food Awards.\" title=\"Caleb Zigas of La Cocina, Ruth Reichl, and Alice Waters, at the Good Food Awards.\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37686\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Caleb Zigas of La Cocina, Ruth Reichl, and Alice Waters, at the Good Food Awards.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://www.ruthreichl.com/\">Ruth Reichl\u003c/a> was standing in front of a gigantic American flag hanging like a banner along the wall of the Ferry Building on Friday, January 13th. It was a backdrop worthy of any Presidential hopeful stumping for votes in the heartland, but here, the stars and stripes were evoking not just Mom and apple pie but Mom's apple pie, and maybe great-granddaddy's moonshine, and now their kids' apple-whiskey chutney and curried cauliflower pickles. It was time to welcome the room of makers and media, gathered in San Francisco for the 2nd annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a>, a celebration of the best of artisanal food production from coast to coast. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Most of you are too young to have grown up in the white-bread world that I did,\" said Reichl. Every cheese was sliced and wrapped in plastic, all strawberries were huge and tasted like cotton. This changed, slowly, through the work of pioneers like Alice Waters, sitting off to one side of the podium, as well as dozens of other food pioneers. Reichl remembered the first time she walked into \u003ca href=\"http://cheeseboardcollective.coop/\">The Cheeseboard\u003c/a>, in Berkeley and was handed a taste of \u003ca href=\"http://www.laurachenel.com/\">Laura Chenel\u003c/a>'s Sonoma-made fresh goat cheese. Reichl lived on it all that summer, and knew that she had to meet the woman making something so new (to American tastes) and so delicious. Then there was \"Artists of the Earth,\" an article she wrote for California magazine in the early 1980s, profiling nine men and women making a difference in the food world and beyond. \"They are some of California's most valuable resources,\" she wrote then, \"...perfectionists who work very hard not because they expect to get rich but simply because they expect to get the best.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Walking through Chino Ranch with Alice a few years later, she was amazed at the quality of produce surrounding them. Corn so sweet it needed no cooking. Strawberries so intensely fragrant that every fellow traveler on the small plane she and Alice were taking from San Diego to Oakland came up and begged for a berry off the flats they were carrying in their laps. \"Every person said, 'I forgot strawberries could smell like that! Please, can I just have one?'\" she recounted. \"And I watched Alice give away that night's dessert for \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a>, because how could she say no?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Back then, I never could have dreamed how huge the change was going to be. We now live in a country that has the best produce in the world...We are reclaiming our edible heritage. \"Thank you for giving us the America we once dreamed we could have.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>After this came the awards, 99 products in eight categories (coffee, chocolate, charcuterie, pickles, preserves, cheese, beer, spirits). There were no single winners; instead, each category had a fat handful of top picks, from seven coffee roasters to 14 preserve-makers. \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/good-food-awards-winners-2012/\">The winners\u003c/a>, like food-world Olympians, got medallions stamped in the shape of the tools of their trade--a cleaver, a canning jar--strung on wide red-white-and-blue ribbons to hang around their necks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was hard not to feel a little hometown, homestate pride at the fine showing the Bay Area, and California, made in the final running. Two local beers made the cut, at opposite ends of the brewing spectrum: from San Leandro, \u003ca href=\"http://www.drakesbrewingcompany.com\">Drake's Brewing Company\u003c/a>'s high-alcohol, rich-as-devil's-food \u003cstrong>Drakonic Imperial Stout\u003c/strong>, and from Petaluma, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.lagunitas.com\">Lagunitas Brewing Company\u003c/a>'s spritzy, grapefruity ale, dubbed \u003cstrong>A Lil' Sumpin' Sumpin'\u003c/strong>. In the coffee category, \u003ca href=\"http://www.equatorcoffees.com\">Equator Coffees\u003c/a> from San Rafael won for its fair trade/organic Ethiopian Watadera beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In pickles, California snagged three of the 11 winning picks, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmhouseculture.com\">Farmhouse Culture\u003c/a>'s \u003cstrong>Smoked Jalapeno Sauerkraut,\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://emmyspicklesandjams.com/\">Emmy's Pickles and Jams\u003c/a>' \u003cstrong>Turmeric Cauliflower,\u003c/strong> and the \u003cstrong>Devil Sauce\u003c/strong> made by \u003ca href=\"http://www.letsbefrankdogs.com\">Let's Be Frank\u003c/a>, of grass-fed hot-dog truck fame. (And we'll give a California hug to OlyKraut, which was founded by Sash Sunday, a former San Franciscan who got into the kraut biz shortly after relocating to Olympia, WA. Plus, she makes nettle kraut!) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/olykraut560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/olykraut560.jpg\" alt=\"OlyKraut, from left: Sash Sunday, Alexia Crousnillon, Nate Masse not pictured: Summer Bock\" title=\"OlyKraut, From left: Sash Sunday, Alexia Crousnillon, Nate Masse not pictured: Summer Bock\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37689\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>OlyKraut, from left: Sash Sunday, Alexia Crousnillon, Nate Massé (not pictured: Summer Bock)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We tied with New York in the cutthroat preserves category, winning for \u003ca href=\"http://www.artisanpreserves.com/\">Artisan Preserves'\u003c/a> \u003cstrong>Orange Honey Marmalade,\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://shop.chezpim.com/\">Chez Pim\u003c/a>'s \u003cstrong>Blueberry-Golden Raspberry Preserves,\u003c/strong> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.wineforest.com\">Wine Forest Wild Foods'\u003c/a> \u003cstrong>Wild Elderberry Shrub.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/WYLIEWHISKEY560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/WYLIEWHISKEY560.jpg\" alt=\"Wylie Whiskey\" title=\"Wylie Whiskey\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37684\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wylie Whiskey, from left: Matt Jones, Garrett Hale, Sarah Swearington.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a cascade of riches from our part of the Golden State: Costa Rican chocolate bars from \u003ca href=\"http://www.dandelionchocolate.com/\">Dandelion Chocolate\u003c/a> in SF; white whiskey from \u003ca href=\"http://www.wyliehowell.com\">Wylie Howell Spirits\u003c/a> in Petaluma; \u003cstrong>Carmody\u003c/strong> (my favorite!) and \u003cstrong>whole-milk ricotta\u003c/strong> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.bellwethercheese.com\">Bellwether Farms\u003c/a> in West Marin; \u003cstrong>yogurt cheese\u003c/strong> from Sonoma's \u003ca href=\"http://www.stbenoit.com\">St. Benoit\u003c/a>, \u003cstrong>pork, rabbit, and duck terrine\u003c/strong> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com\">Fatted Calf\u003c/a> in SF and Napa; \u003cstrong>speck\u003c/strong> from Oakland wine bar/salumeria \u003ca href=\"http://www.dopoadesso.com/adesso/\">Adesso\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/dandelionchoc560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/dandelionchoc560.jpg\" alt=\"From left: Alice Nystrom, Todd Masonis of Dandelion Chocolate\" title=\"From left: Alice Nystrom, Todd Masonis of Dandelion Chocolate\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37687\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dandelion Chocolate: Alice Nystrom, Todd Masonis\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Come the next morning, many of the previous night's winners were out in force at the Good Food Awards Marketplace, a tasting/selling spread of tables organized by category set up under the archways of the Ferry Building. Reichl, who now runs the specialty food (and content) site \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilttaste.com/\">Gilt Taste\u003c/a>, was on hand with a keen appetite, even after a late-night dinner with Alice and friends at Locanda in the Mission. Already, she's tried the chilaquiles and shrimp ceviche at the Primavera market stand, and tells me, joyfully, of the \"best breakfast sandwich\" she's ever had, from \u003ca href=\"http://www.4505meats.com\">4505 Meats\u003c/a>: a soft, buttery brioche bun piled with a maple-bacon sausage patty, an oozy-centered fried egg, and a frizz of snappy peppercress. Speaking of her talk the previous night, she laughed at the thought of trying to profile just eight makers now. \"At the time, it was hard to find even eight people, enough to write about. I had to include a produce distributor, a guy who was raising pigs and lambs for Chez Panisse. Now, that would be ridiculous. You'd have to write an encyclopedia!\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If anything, she thinks we're underestimating the strength and staying power of the artisan movement. Already, the food makers' landscape has changed drastically in just the past five years. In the next five, ten years, what will it look like? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/KathrynLukasFarmhouseCulture560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/KathrynLukasFarmhouseCulture560.jpg\" alt=\"Kathryn Lukas of Farmhouse Culture\" title=\"Kathryn Lukas of Farmhouse Culture\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37688\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Kathryn Lukas of Farmhouse Culture\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's no doubt, though, that the movement is fostering ever-closer relationships between chefs, makers and farmers. These products, from basil vodka to sea-vegetable kraut, are only as good as their raw ingredients. Recounting a cabbage blight that decimated the California crop last year, Farmhouse Culture founder Kathryn Lukas quoted Let's Be Frank's Larry Bain, laughing, \"It's hard when you're in business with God.\"\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Good Food Awards: An Insider Takes BAB Behind-the-Scenes",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/james-collier-preserves560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/james-collier-preserves560.jpg\" alt=\"Preserves and Pickles -- Good Food Awards Photo: James Collier\" title=\"Preserves and Pickles -- Good Food Awards Photo: James Collier\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37595\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Preserves and Pickles -- Good Food Awards.\u003c/strong> Photo: James Collier\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's the second year for the \u003ca href=\"http://seedlingprojects.org/\">Seedling Projects\u003c/a>' \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a> -- winners announced tonight at a gala at San Francisco's Ferry Building -- and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/karensolomon/\">BAB contributor\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://ksolomon.com/\">Karen Solomon\u003c/a> gives us an inside peek into the national food contest, which features sustainable foods made with real, authentic ingredients by local producers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_37597\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/karensolomon/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/StacyVentura_KarenSolomonPortrait.jpg\" alt=\"Karen Solomon. Photo: Stacy Ventura\" title=\"Karen Solomon. Photo: Stacy Ventura\" width=\"200\" height=\"301\" class=\"size-full wp-image-37597\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Karen Solomon. Photo: Stacy Ventura\u003c/em>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The concept behind the food competition is to highlight best in show in various edible categories from five regions of the country, this year prizes will go to makers of beer, charcuterie, cheese, chocolate, coffee, pickles, preserves, and -- a new area -- spirits. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As was the case last year, many Bay Area food makers are in the finalists' circle, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.lagunitas.com/\">Lagunitas Brewing Company\u003c/a> (a lil' sumpin' sumpin'), \u003ca href=\"http://www.caferouge.net/\">Cafe Rouge\u003c/a> (duck pate), \u003ca href=\"http://www.bellwetherfarms.com/\">Bellwether Farms\u003c/a> (carmody and whole milk ricotta), \u003ca href=\"http://sightglasscoffee.com/\">Sightglass Coffee\u003c/a> (Ethiopian shakiso), \u003ca href=\"http://emmyspicklesandjams.com/\">Emmy's Pickles & Jams\u003c/a> (turmeric cauliflower), and \u003ca href=\"http://chezpim.com/\">Chez Pim\u003c/a> (blueberry and golden raspberry jam).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dozens of judges served as blind tasters; there were 926 entries from 46 states. Last year \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/winners/\">71 producers\u003c/a> won the honor of adding a Good Food Awards label to their products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We spoke with Solomon, the author of \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/158008575X/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=lifefounlimi-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399369&creativeASIN=158008575X\">Can It, Bottle It, Smoke It\u003c/a>\u003c/em> and \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1580089585/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=lifefounlimi-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399369&creativeASIN=1580089585\">Jam It, Pickle It, Cure It\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, about the awards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's your role with the Good Food Awards and why are you involved?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year I was a committee member in the pickles category. We helped figure out the criteria for judging. Last year, the first of the awards, I was involved from the beginning with both the pickles and preserves committees. Additionally, I was a judge in the pickles category and a co-presenter for the awards in that area. For me, anything that spotlights the achievements of conscientious food artisans is a worthy cause. I like to see the little guy win big.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What kind of criteria are judges looking (and tasting) for in this contest?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we judge pickles, we look for balanced, quality products that reflect their excellent ingredients. We want full flavor, but not too biting. We want a welcoming appearance. And for me personally, I want the integrity of the vegetables to be in tact. I hate mushy pickles!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>There are a lot of Bay Area finalists again -- is that a reflection of this region as a mecca for food producers or the simple fact that the awards are based here?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think it's a little of both. Since the event happens here, so locally we'll have the most fuel for the fire. And while the awards are spread over numerous divisions across the country, it's undeniable that a lot of great artisan food comes from here. The Bay Area has the right combination of interest, size, a year-round growing season, and affluence to support those undertaking artisan food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How does a Good Food Awards winner label help food artisans?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think it draws attention to a product on the shelf. It reflects the quality under the cap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Slightly off topic question: Have you seen the Portlandia segment \u003ca href=\"http://www.wecanpicklethat.com/\">\"We Can Pickle That!\"\u003c/a> and what do you make of it? Is it a cruel poke at a recently rediscovered Domestic Art, a bit of food-related fun, a sign that pickling is on its way to becoming a mainstream practice again, all of the above, or something else entirely?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have mixed feelings about it. Of course it's funny and I'm a total sucker for such great humor. The clip and the website have been all over social media within canning circles, and most of us are laughing. Still, it stings a bit -- no hipster, no matter how aging one may be, wants to think he or she is a tired joke.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYey8ntlK_E]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Details:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GOOD FOOD AWARDS RECEPTION\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Good Food Awards ceremony is tonight, Friday, January 13, at San Francisco’s Ferry Building. A limited number of tickets are available for Gilt City members. The catered reception will be hosted by Ruth Reichl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Time: 8:00pm-10:00pm\u003cbr>\nLocation: San Francisco Ferry Building\u003cbr>\nPrice: $100\u003cbr>\nTickets: \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/the-awards/ticketing/\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.giltcity.com/san-francisco/goodfoodawards\">Gilt City\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GOOD FOOD AWARDS MARKETPLACE\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Saturday, January 14, there's an opportunity to taste the award-winning products by sustainable food producers from around the country, including Colorado cheesemakers, Utah chocolatiers, and Ohio picklers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Time: 8:00am-2:00pm (8:00am-9:00am Exclusive Tasting)\u003cbr>\nLocation: San Francisco Ferry Building\u003cbr>\nTickets: Exclusive Tasting: $12 through \u003ca href=\"http://www.giltcity.com/san-francisco/goodfoodawards\">Gilt City\u003c/a>, General Admission: $5 at the door, Beer and Spirits Garden: $12 for 5 tastings, or \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/the-awards/ticketing/\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/james-collier-preserves560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/james-collier-preserves560.jpg\" alt=\"Preserves and Pickles -- Good Food Awards Photo: James Collier\" title=\"Preserves and Pickles -- Good Food Awards Photo: James Collier\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37595\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Preserves and Pickles -- Good Food Awards.\u003c/strong> Photo: James Collier\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's the second year for the \u003ca href=\"http://seedlingprojects.org/\">Seedling Projects\u003c/a>' \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a> -- winners announced tonight at a gala at San Francisco's Ferry Building -- and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/karensolomon/\">BAB contributor\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://ksolomon.com/\">Karen Solomon\u003c/a> gives us an inside peek into the national food contest, which features sustainable foods made with real, authentic ingredients by local producers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_37597\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/karensolomon/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/StacyVentura_KarenSolomonPortrait.jpg\" alt=\"Karen Solomon. Photo: Stacy Ventura\" title=\"Karen Solomon. Photo: Stacy Ventura\" width=\"200\" height=\"301\" class=\"size-full wp-image-37597\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Karen Solomon. Photo: Stacy Ventura\u003c/em>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The concept behind the food competition is to highlight best in show in various edible categories from five regions of the country, this year prizes will go to makers of beer, charcuterie, cheese, chocolate, coffee, pickles, preserves, and -- a new area -- spirits. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As was the case last year, many Bay Area food makers are in the finalists' circle, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.lagunitas.com/\">Lagunitas Brewing Company\u003c/a> (a lil' sumpin' sumpin'), \u003ca href=\"http://www.caferouge.net/\">Cafe Rouge\u003c/a> (duck pate), \u003ca href=\"http://www.bellwetherfarms.com/\">Bellwether Farms\u003c/a> (carmody and whole milk ricotta), \u003ca href=\"http://sightglasscoffee.com/\">Sightglass Coffee\u003c/a> (Ethiopian shakiso), \u003ca href=\"http://emmyspicklesandjams.com/\">Emmy's Pickles & Jams\u003c/a> (turmeric cauliflower), and \u003ca href=\"http://chezpim.com/\">Chez Pim\u003c/a> (blueberry and golden raspberry jam).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dozens of judges served as blind tasters; there were 926 entries from 46 states. Last year \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/winners/\">71 producers\u003c/a> won the honor of adding a Good Food Awards label to their products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We spoke with Solomon, the author of \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/158008575X/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=lifefounlimi-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399369&creativeASIN=158008575X\">Can It, Bottle It, Smoke It\u003c/a>\u003c/em> and \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1580089585/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=lifefounlimi-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399369&creativeASIN=1580089585\">Jam It, Pickle It, Cure It\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, about the awards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's your role with the Good Food Awards and why are you involved?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year I was a committee member in the pickles category. We helped figure out the criteria for judging. Last year, the first of the awards, I was involved from the beginning with both the pickles and preserves committees. Additionally, I was a judge in the pickles category and a co-presenter for the awards in that area. For me, anything that spotlights the achievements of conscientious food artisans is a worthy cause. I like to see the little guy win big.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What kind of criteria are judges looking (and tasting) for in this contest?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we judge pickles, we look for balanced, quality products that reflect their excellent ingredients. We want full flavor, but not too biting. We want a welcoming appearance. And for me personally, I want the integrity of the vegetables to be in tact. I hate mushy pickles!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>There are a lot of Bay Area finalists again -- is that a reflection of this region as a mecca for food producers or the simple fact that the awards are based here?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think it's a little of both. Since the event happens here, so locally we'll have the most fuel for the fire. And while the awards are spread over numerous divisions across the country, it's undeniable that a lot of great artisan food comes from here. The Bay Area has the right combination of interest, size, a year-round growing season, and affluence to support those undertaking artisan food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How does a Good Food Awards winner label help food artisans?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think it draws attention to a product on the shelf. It reflects the quality under the cap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Slightly off topic question: Have you seen the Portlandia segment \u003ca href=\"http://www.wecanpicklethat.com/\">\"We Can Pickle That!\"\u003c/a> and what do you make of it? Is it a cruel poke at a recently rediscovered Domestic Art, a bit of food-related fun, a sign that pickling is on its way to becoming a mainstream practice again, all of the above, or something else entirely?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have mixed feelings about it. Of course it's funny and I'm a total sucker for such great humor. The clip and the website have been all over social media within canning circles, and most of us are laughing. Still, it stings a bit -- no hipster, no matter how aging one may be, wants to think he or she is a tired joke.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/yYey8ntlK_E'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/yYey8ntlK_E'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Details:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GOOD FOOD AWARDS RECEPTION\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Good Food Awards ceremony is tonight, Friday, January 13, at San Francisco’s Ferry Building. A limited number of tickets are available for Gilt City members. The catered reception will be hosted by Ruth Reichl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Time: 8:00pm-10:00pm\u003cbr>\nLocation: San Francisco Ferry Building\u003cbr>\nPrice: $100\u003cbr>\nTickets: \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/the-awards/ticketing/\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.giltcity.com/san-francisco/goodfoodawards\">Gilt City\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GOOD FOOD AWARDS MARKETPLACE\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Saturday, January 14, there's an opportunity to taste the award-winning products by sustainable food producers from around the country, including Colorado cheesemakers, Utah chocolatiers, and Ohio picklers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Time: 8:00am-2:00pm (8:00am-9:00am Exclusive Tasting)\u003cbr>\nLocation: San Francisco Ferry Building\u003cbr>\nTickets: Exclusive Tasting: $12 through \u003ca href=\"http://www.giltcity.com/san-francisco/goodfoodawards\">Gilt City\u003c/a>, General Admission: $5 at the door, Beer and Spirits Garden: $12 for 5 tastings, or \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/the-awards/ticketing/\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/Screen-shot-2011-10-05-at-3.28.40-AM.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/Screen-shot-2011-10-05-at-3.28.40-AM.png\" alt=\"slide from class presentation Nutrition, Health, and Diet Related Disease\" title=\"slide from class presentation Nutrition, Health, and Diet Related Disease\" width=\"388\" height=\"283\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-33921\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nutrition, Health, and Diet Related Disease\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>America’s obesity epidemic was the topic of discussion at the September 27 \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanissefoundation.org/edible-education-101\">Edible Education: The Rise and Future of the Food Movement\u003c/a> session at UC Berkeley. Dr. \u003ca href=\"http://chc.ucsf.edu/coast/faculty_lustig.htm\">Robert Lustig\u003c/a>, a neuroendocrinologist who studies childhood obesity at the University of California at San Francisco, spoke along with \u003ca href=\"http://nst.berkeley.edu/faculty/crawford.html\">Patricia Crawford\u003c/a>, a UC Berkeley professor who has traced the rise of the obesity epidemic and studies healthy food in schools. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Obesity Growth in U.S.\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe most startling information came from Patricia Crawford who showed \u003ca href=\"http://www.cdc.gov/obesity/data/trends.html\">the rise in obesity in the U.S. over the past twenty years\u003c/a> through a series of maps. In 1991 there was less than ten percent obesity in most state populations. But we gradually watched the map of the entire country get washed over in bright red, the color indicating the highest rates of obesity. Crawford says, \"We need to create healthier food and activity environments to reduce obesity.\" She’s been working in the school system to figure out how to achieve these goals. Crawford has found that even Berkeley kids, who live in a healthy food mecca, share similar eating patterns to kids in the rest of the state. Crawford listed four activities that can help to control the obesity epidemic:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Reduce sweet beverage intake\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Reduce fast food intake\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Control portion size\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Reduce time on the computer or tv\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Crawford is working in policy development to reduce obesity by trying to get high calorie snacks out of schools and advocating for zoning policies on fast food restaurants near schools. Following Crawford's obesity maps were the equally startling comments on the toxicity of sugar by Dr. Robert Lustig.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Big Sugar's Nemesis\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robert Lustig’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/17/magazine/mag-17Sugar-t.html\">bracing argument in a recent New York Times magazine article \u003c/a>on the dangers of sugar convinced me to quit my own habit. Something about his explanation of the biochemistry of sugar resonates. He explains how sugar can be toxic because of the way it breaks down and overwhelms your liver. Lustig blames sugar for the skyrocketing obesity rates in the U.S. \"A type of sugar called fructose is the cause of the current epidemic,\" says Lustig. “Our entire food supply has been adulterated with the addition of fructose for palatability and removal of fiber for shelf life.\" Lustig explains how so-called healthy snacks, like low fat yogurt, can be full of sugar. According to Lustig, sugar is even added to hamburger buns and hamburger meat. He ran through several decades of food policy to explain why sugar has become an additive but the main point Lustig makes is that there has been a lot of attention on fat but fat consumption has gone down in the U.S. while our sugar and refined carbohydrate intake has gone up. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Eat Your Fruit Don’t Drink It\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even if you skip the Milky Way and go for something healthier like an orange, you still have to watch out. That orange is much healthier if you don’t juice it. Says Lustig, “A good part of the fruit is fiber but when you juice a fruit you destroy the insoluble fiber. You need it to limit the rate of carbohydrate and fat absorption into the blood stream which gives your liver a chance to catch up. Fruit is good. Juice is bad and smoothies suck.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sugar has been linked to not only obesity but other chronic health problems like heart disease, cancer and memory loss. Lustig says the obesity epidemic is responsible for a 65-billion dollar decrease in work productivity and a 50-percent increase in health insurance premiums. Lustig left the audience with a question to ponder: “Can our toxic environment be changed without government or societal intervention especially when there are addictive substances involved? For Lustig the answer may be regulating sugar just like we do with alcohol and cigarettes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>View the video of the entire class:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"410\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/wffhlkxaXJE\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 13 week course, which is funded by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanissefoundation.org/\">Chez Panisse Foundation \u003c/a>in collaboration with West Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.peoplesgrocery.org/\">People’s Grocery\u003c/a>, makes \u003ca href=\"http://www.ticketweb.com/snl/EventListings.action?pl=panisse&orgId=130613\">tickets available each Wednesday to the public\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/Screen-shot-2011-10-05-at-3.28.40-AM.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/Screen-shot-2011-10-05-at-3.28.40-AM.png\" alt=\"slide from class presentation Nutrition, Health, and Diet Related Disease\" title=\"slide from class presentation Nutrition, Health, and Diet Related Disease\" width=\"388\" height=\"283\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-33921\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nutrition, Health, and Diet Related Disease\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>America’s obesity epidemic was the topic of discussion at the September 27 \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanissefoundation.org/edible-education-101\">Edible Education: The Rise and Future of the Food Movement\u003c/a> session at UC Berkeley. Dr. \u003ca href=\"http://chc.ucsf.edu/coast/faculty_lustig.htm\">Robert Lustig\u003c/a>, a neuroendocrinologist who studies childhood obesity at the University of California at San Francisco, spoke along with \u003ca href=\"http://nst.berkeley.edu/faculty/crawford.html\">Patricia Crawford\u003c/a>, a UC Berkeley professor who has traced the rise of the obesity epidemic and studies healthy food in schools. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Obesity Growth in U.S.\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe most startling information came from Patricia Crawford who showed \u003ca href=\"http://www.cdc.gov/obesity/data/trends.html\">the rise in obesity in the U.S. over the past twenty years\u003c/a> through a series of maps. In 1991 there was less than ten percent obesity in most state populations. But we gradually watched the map of the entire country get washed over in bright red, the color indicating the highest rates of obesity. Crawford says, \"We need to create healthier food and activity environments to reduce obesity.\" She’s been working in the school system to figure out how to achieve these goals. Crawford has found that even Berkeley kids, who live in a healthy food mecca, share similar eating patterns to kids in the rest of the state. Crawford listed four activities that can help to control the obesity epidemic:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Reduce sweet beverage intake\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Reduce fast food intake\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Control portion size\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Reduce time on the computer or tv\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Crawford is working in policy development to reduce obesity by trying to get high calorie snacks out of schools and advocating for zoning policies on fast food restaurants near schools. Following Crawford's obesity maps were the equally startling comments on the toxicity of sugar by Dr. Robert Lustig.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Big Sugar's Nemesis\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robert Lustig’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/17/magazine/mag-17Sugar-t.html\">bracing argument in a recent New York Times magazine article \u003c/a>on the dangers of sugar convinced me to quit my own habit. Something about his explanation of the biochemistry of sugar resonates. He explains how sugar can be toxic because of the way it breaks down and overwhelms your liver. Lustig blames sugar for the skyrocketing obesity rates in the U.S. \"A type of sugar called fructose is the cause of the current epidemic,\" says Lustig. “Our entire food supply has been adulterated with the addition of fructose for palatability and removal of fiber for shelf life.\" Lustig explains how so-called healthy snacks, like low fat yogurt, can be full of sugar. According to Lustig, sugar is even added to hamburger buns and hamburger meat. He ran through several decades of food policy to explain why sugar has become an additive but the main point Lustig makes is that there has been a lot of attention on fat but fat consumption has gone down in the U.S. while our sugar and refined carbohydrate intake has gone up. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Eat Your Fruit Don’t Drink It\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even if you skip the Milky Way and go for something healthier like an orange, you still have to watch out. That orange is much healthier if you don’t juice it. Says Lustig, “A good part of the fruit is fiber but when you juice a fruit you destroy the insoluble fiber. You need it to limit the rate of carbohydrate and fat absorption into the blood stream which gives your liver a chance to catch up. Fruit is good. Juice is bad and smoothies suck.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sugar has been linked to not only obesity but other chronic health problems like heart disease, cancer and memory loss. Lustig says the obesity epidemic is responsible for a 65-billion dollar decrease in work productivity and a 50-percent increase in health insurance premiums. Lustig left the audience with a question to ponder: “Can our toxic environment be changed without government or societal intervention especially when there are addictive substances involved? For Lustig the answer may be regulating sugar just like we do with alcohol and cigarettes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>View the video of the entire class:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"410\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/wffhlkxaXJE\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 13 week course, which is funded by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanissefoundation.org/\">Chez Panisse Foundation \u003c/a>in collaboration with West Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.peoplesgrocery.org/\">People’s Grocery\u003c/a>, makes \u003ca href=\"http://www.ticketweb.com/snl/EventListings.action?pl=panisse&orgId=130613\">tickets available each Wednesday to the public\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/09/compost2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/09/compost2.jpg\" alt=\"Bob Shaffer - compost guy\" title=\"Bob Shaffer - compost guy\" width=\"379\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32786\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How does San Francisco’s 600 tons of compostable waste become a nutrient-rich material that improves the quality of our local wines? Watch QUEST's Science on the SPOT story, \u003ca href=\"http://science.kqed.org/quest/video/science-on-the-spot-dark-matter-inside-the-compost-cycle/\">Dark Matter: Inside the Compost Cycle\u003c/a> to hear from agronomist Bob Shaffer, Northern California’s “compost guy,” and learn about the composting process.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"345\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/QBSGuUq2D9E\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"excerpt": "How does San Francisco’s 600 tons of compostable waste become a nutrient-rich material that improves the quality of our local wines? Watch QUEST's Science on the SPOT story, Dark Matter: Inside the Compost Cycle to hear from agronomist Bob Shaffer, Northern California’s “compost guy,” and learn about the composting process.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/09/compost2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/09/compost2.jpg\" alt=\"Bob Shaffer - compost guy\" title=\"Bob Shaffer - compost guy\" width=\"379\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32786\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How does San Francisco’s 600 tons of compostable waste become a nutrient-rich material that improves the quality of our local wines? Watch QUEST's Science on the SPOT story, \u003ca href=\"http://science.kqed.org/quest/video/science-on-the-spot-dark-matter-inside-the-compost-cycle/\">Dark Matter: Inside the Compost Cycle\u003c/a> to hear from agronomist Bob Shaffer, Northern California’s “compost guy,” and learn about the composting process.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"345\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/QBSGuUq2D9E\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Book Review: Oyster Culture",
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"content": "\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0918684870/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/09/oyster-culture-cover.jpg\" alt=\"Oyster Culture book cover\" title=\"Oyster Culture book cover\" width=\"300\" height=\"391\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-32736\">\u003c/a>What's on your locavore's barbecue this Labor Day weekend? A slab of beef tri-tip, our favorite regional cut, sliced and nestled up to a stack of red torpedo onions and dry-farmed Early Girl tomatoes sounds mighty tasty. If you prefer fish, try a side of grilled sockeye or king salmon topped with this easy \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/08/28/double-corn-delight/\">corn relish\u003c/a>. And to start, what captures the taste of our unique coastal landscape than a a platter of oysters plucked from the salt-sweet estuaries of Tomales Bay or Point Reyes? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can shuck and serve them raw, with nothing more than a squirt of lemon and a shake of hot sauce, or get a little more fancy with a saucer of mignonette sauce. Mignonette may sound lah-di-dah, but it's nothing more than a tart dunk of minced shallot, black pepper, and champagne vinegar. At its popular restaurant and oyster bar in the Ferry Building, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.hogislandoysters.com\">Hog Island Oyster Company\u003c/a> has California-ized this French classic into a \"Hog Wash\" of shallot, minced jalapeno, cilantro, and both seasoned and plain rice vinegar. Or you can raise a toast to a particularly local tradition and barbecue them right on the grill. No shucking required; just place oysters, flat side up, on a hot grill until the shells pop open. Off the heat, remove the top shell, loosen the oyster within with a quick swipe of an oyster knife, and top with your favorite barbecue sauce. You can return the oysters to the grill for a minute or two to heat the sauce through. Whatever you do, the oysters will be sexy and succulent, with a clean ocean taste like the first fresh slap of a wave against your face. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once your appetite is whetted, you might want to know more about these intriguing little bivalves, so rich in history and lore. \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0918684870/kqedorg-20\">Oyster Culture\u003c/a> by Gwendolyn Meyer and Doreen Schmid, is a great place to start. Illustrated with Meyer's beautiful, evocative black-and-white and color photographs as well as historical documents and pictures, the book, published by Petaluma's Cameron Press, delves into the history and ecology of the local oyster industry. How did the book happen? Via email, Meyer told us, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The book evolved from a photo essay on how oysters are farmed on one farm into the bigger story of oyster farming out here in West Marin. I started shooting grainy black and white film images back in 2001 out on the water and the gritty grainy look captured the hard working farmers on the bay on its foggy overcast cold windy days. The Tomales Bay is a special and unique place, one of the few clean estuariane systems left in California. The water-based farms fascinated me, and being out on the bay was captivating. Getting to know some of the people involved with oysters here and the history of the east shore-- I realized that there was a story that hadn't been told. \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Photos from Oyster Culture copyright Gwendolyn Meyer\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cobject width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627468950699%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627468950699%2F&set_id=72157627468950699&jump_to=\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=104087\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cembed type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=104087\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" flashvars=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627468950699%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627468950699%2F&set_id=72157627468950699&jump_to=\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People in California have been eating oysters for centuries. Archaeological digs at Coast Miwok campsites have revealed piles of oyster, mussel, and clam shells. The native oyster of California's indigenous peoples and first settlers was the small, coppery-tasting Olympia oyster, Ostreo lurida. It has since been replaced, first by Atlantic varieties shipped in from the East Coast, then, since the 1930s, by Japanese Pacific varieties like the Miyagi and the Kumamoto. At first, commercial oyster farming was concentrated in San Francisco Bay, but as silt and pollution threatened the beds, the oyster companies looked north, to the more pristine estuaries of Tomales Bay and the Point Reyes peninsula. Oysters thrive in flat tidal estuaries where the river meets the sea, as part of a very particular coastal ecology. Once railways were established, linking the once-remote hamlets of West Marin to San Francisco and the surrounding towns, local aquaculture took off. As \u003cem>Oyster Culture\u003c/em> notes, \"For a brief moment in the 1950s, Tomales Bay was the largest oyster producer in California. Today, it is the state's smallest production area, but home of its oldest oyster farm and last oyster-canning factory, at Drakes Bay Estero.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using an attractive and inviting layout, \u003cem>Oyster Culture\u003c/em> explores both the natural and cultural histories of oysters, oyster farming, and oyster-eating around the Bay Area. At an early age, left to its own devices, an oyster attaches itself permanently to whatever solid surface it can find. Raising oysters is more like farming, or raising livestock, than fishing, since the oysters stay where they're planted. Marin's oyster companies, including Hog Island, \u003ca href=\"http://tomalesbayoysters.com/\">Tomales Bay Oyster Company\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pointreyesoyster.com\">Point Reyes Oyster Company\u003c/a>, Cove Mussel Company, the Marin Oyster Company, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.drakesbayoyster.com/\">Drakes Bay Oyster Company\u003c/a> (formerly Johnson's Oyster Farm), have evolved their own systems for raising and growing their oysters, each producing slightly different results. Along with ranching and farming, the oyster industry makes up a significant part of Marin's agricultural history and current agricultural and aquaculture-based economy. As Meyer told us,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"What was striking to me was how involved and familiar with every aspect of oysters everyone who works with them is, from the oyster bar shuckers to the farmers. There is a wealth of information about the oyster, and people who work with oysters know so much. Everyone in the industry has a particular philosophy about how they grow. Their understanding of the bay and the water and the environment they work in is impressive. I think a memorable story comes from Jorge out at Drakes Bay. Jorge has worked on the water for 30-plus years at Drakes Bay, for the Lunny family and the Johnsons before them. One early morning, he and Kevin Lunny got disoriented in the fog out on the estero. The fog blanketed out any recognizable features and they got didn’t know which way was home. They mistook the light on shore for that of a boat and headed away from it towards the ocean, which could have been disastrous. Fortunately, they managed to figure it out and didn’t head out to sea. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story reminded me how even experienced [oyster] farmers with years of working on the same body of water are at the mercy of changing conditions. It may look calm and protected out there on the bay and estero, but it’s a landscape very much affected by many influences, both natural and man-made. I think the environment keeps farmers constantly on their toes.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Eat a local oyster, and you're supporting local jobs, something that makes putting oysters on the menu particularly appropriate for Labor Day. It's cold, wet work, tending to the rough-shelled babies out in the Bay, scrubbing and shucking, but it's an industry with deep roots, one that both provides jobs and presents a model for how for-profit agricultural businesses can work within protected parklands. \"Because Tomales Bay is part of the Gulf of the Farallones National Marine Sanctuary, the farm [Hog Island], like all those within this sanctuary, works with over twenty agencies that manage land use and water quality in and around the Bay,\" the authors write. Says Hog Island co-owner Terry Sawyer, \"None of this would be here without the Point Reyes National Seashore--we all owe a huge debt to its creation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that she's an oyster expert, what oyster does Meyer prefer? \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Lately I’m particularly fond of the Tomales Bay Oyster Company's golden nuggets. They are beautiful oysters that are tumbled, not grown on the bottom, and because of this their shells are really pretty. The oyster itself is a deep-cupped, plump, rich tasting and perfect-looking oyster -- really a delicacy. I believe TBOC is the only farm doing tumbled bags on the bays. I prefer them freshly shucked, on the half shell with a squeeze of lemon. I like their briny taste of the ocean and want the full flavor of that, especially as we come into the winter months when they are at their prime. \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Oysters with Chorizo Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Summary:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>This recipe, adapted from the book \u003cstrong>Oyster Culture \u003c/strong>by Gwendolyn Marks and Doreen Schmid, comes from the kitchen of The Marshall Store, a popular seafood restaurant on the eastern side of Tomales Bay. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>From the Marshall Store\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/09/oysters-recipe.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/09/oysters-recipe.jpg\" alt=\"Oysters with Chorizo Sauce. Photo by Gwendolyn Meyer\" title=\"Oysters with Chorizo Sauce. Photo by Gwendolyn Meyer\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32730\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oysters with Chorizo Sauce. Photo copyright Gwendolyn Meyer\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep time:\u003c/strong> 10 minutes, plus 1 hour's chilling time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook time:\u003c/strong> 5 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total time:\u003c/strong> 15 minutes, plus 1 hour's chilling time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 24 oysters, serves 6\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 lb fresh Mexican-style chorizo sausage, removed from casing\u003cbr>\n1 cup (8 oz) unsalted butter, softened\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp finely chopped parsley\u003cbr>\n24 oysters \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Soften butter at room temperature. Saute chorizo until thoroughly cooked, then crumble. Place in refrigerator to cool. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Place butter in a small bowl and break up with a wooden spoon. Add cooled chorizo and mix thoroughly. Add parsley. Place the mixture in the middle of a sheet of waxed paper. Roll into a 2-inch wide log, twist ends shut, and chill in the refrigerator until firm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Prepare a gas or charcoal grill. While grill is heating, shuck oysters and leave in shells. When grill is hot, top each opened oyster with a thin slice of butter cut from roll. Cover and cook just until the butter starts to bubble. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: If you don't have an outdoor grill, these oysters can also be cooked under the broiler. To broil, cover an ovenproof plate or platter with a layer of slightly moistened rock salt about 1 inch deep. Set oysters, in shells, on the rock salt, making sure they are level. Top each oyster with a thin slice of chorizo butter. Broil just until the butter starts to bubble. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Put some barbecued oysters on your locavore grill this weekend. Oyster Culture, a new book by Gwendolyn Meyer and Doreen Schmid, explores the natural and cultural history of oyster farming around the Bay. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0918684870/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/09/oyster-culture-cover.jpg\" alt=\"Oyster Culture book cover\" title=\"Oyster Culture book cover\" width=\"300\" height=\"391\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-32736\">\u003c/a>What's on your locavore's barbecue this Labor Day weekend? A slab of beef tri-tip, our favorite regional cut, sliced and nestled up to a stack of red torpedo onions and dry-farmed Early Girl tomatoes sounds mighty tasty. If you prefer fish, try a side of grilled sockeye or king salmon topped with this easy \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/08/28/double-corn-delight/\">corn relish\u003c/a>. And to start, what captures the taste of our unique coastal landscape than a a platter of oysters plucked from the salt-sweet estuaries of Tomales Bay or Point Reyes? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can shuck and serve them raw, with nothing more than a squirt of lemon and a shake of hot sauce, or get a little more fancy with a saucer of mignonette sauce. Mignonette may sound lah-di-dah, but it's nothing more than a tart dunk of minced shallot, black pepper, and champagne vinegar. At its popular restaurant and oyster bar in the Ferry Building, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.hogislandoysters.com\">Hog Island Oyster Company\u003c/a> has California-ized this French classic into a \"Hog Wash\" of shallot, minced jalapeno, cilantro, and both seasoned and plain rice vinegar. Or you can raise a toast to a particularly local tradition and barbecue them right on the grill. No shucking required; just place oysters, flat side up, on a hot grill until the shells pop open. Off the heat, remove the top shell, loosen the oyster within with a quick swipe of an oyster knife, and top with your favorite barbecue sauce. You can return the oysters to the grill for a minute or two to heat the sauce through. Whatever you do, the oysters will be sexy and succulent, with a clean ocean taste like the first fresh slap of a wave against your face. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once your appetite is whetted, you might want to know more about these intriguing little bivalves, so rich in history and lore. \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0918684870/kqedorg-20\">Oyster Culture\u003c/a> by Gwendolyn Meyer and Doreen Schmid, is a great place to start. Illustrated with Meyer's beautiful, evocative black-and-white and color photographs as well as historical documents and pictures, the book, published by Petaluma's Cameron Press, delves into the history and ecology of the local oyster industry. How did the book happen? Via email, Meyer told us, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The book evolved from a photo essay on how oysters are farmed on one farm into the bigger story of oyster farming out here in West Marin. I started shooting grainy black and white film images back in 2001 out on the water and the gritty grainy look captured the hard working farmers on the bay on its foggy overcast cold windy days. The Tomales Bay is a special and unique place, one of the few clean estuariane systems left in California. The water-based farms fascinated me, and being out on the bay was captivating. Getting to know some of the people involved with oysters here and the history of the east shore-- I realized that there was a story that hadn't been told. \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Photos from Oyster Culture copyright Gwendolyn Meyer\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cobject width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627468950699%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627468950699%2F&set_id=72157627468950699&jump_to=\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=104087\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cembed type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=104087\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" flashvars=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627468950699%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627468950699%2F&set_id=72157627468950699&jump_to=\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People in California have been eating oysters for centuries. Archaeological digs at Coast Miwok campsites have revealed piles of oyster, mussel, and clam shells. The native oyster of California's indigenous peoples and first settlers was the small, coppery-tasting Olympia oyster, Ostreo lurida. It has since been replaced, first by Atlantic varieties shipped in from the East Coast, then, since the 1930s, by Japanese Pacific varieties like the Miyagi and the Kumamoto. At first, commercial oyster farming was concentrated in San Francisco Bay, but as silt and pollution threatened the beds, the oyster companies looked north, to the more pristine estuaries of Tomales Bay and the Point Reyes peninsula. Oysters thrive in flat tidal estuaries where the river meets the sea, as part of a very particular coastal ecology. Once railways were established, linking the once-remote hamlets of West Marin to San Francisco and the surrounding towns, local aquaculture took off. As \u003cem>Oyster Culture\u003c/em> notes, \"For a brief moment in the 1950s, Tomales Bay was the largest oyster producer in California. Today, it is the state's smallest production area, but home of its oldest oyster farm and last oyster-canning factory, at Drakes Bay Estero.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using an attractive and inviting layout, \u003cem>Oyster Culture\u003c/em> explores both the natural and cultural histories of oysters, oyster farming, and oyster-eating around the Bay Area. At an early age, left to its own devices, an oyster attaches itself permanently to whatever solid surface it can find. Raising oysters is more like farming, or raising livestock, than fishing, since the oysters stay where they're planted. Marin's oyster companies, including Hog Island, \u003ca href=\"http://tomalesbayoysters.com/\">Tomales Bay Oyster Company\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pointreyesoyster.com\">Point Reyes Oyster Company\u003c/a>, Cove Mussel Company, the Marin Oyster Company, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.drakesbayoyster.com/\">Drakes Bay Oyster Company\u003c/a> (formerly Johnson's Oyster Farm), have evolved their own systems for raising and growing their oysters, each producing slightly different results. Along with ranching and farming, the oyster industry makes up a significant part of Marin's agricultural history and current agricultural and aquaculture-based economy. As Meyer told us,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"What was striking to me was how involved and familiar with every aspect of oysters everyone who works with them is, from the oyster bar shuckers to the farmers. There is a wealth of information about the oyster, and people who work with oysters know so much. Everyone in the industry has a particular philosophy about how they grow. Their understanding of the bay and the water and the environment they work in is impressive. I think a memorable story comes from Jorge out at Drakes Bay. Jorge has worked on the water for 30-plus years at Drakes Bay, for the Lunny family and the Johnsons before them. One early morning, he and Kevin Lunny got disoriented in the fog out on the estero. The fog blanketed out any recognizable features and they got didn’t know which way was home. They mistook the light on shore for that of a boat and headed away from it towards the ocean, which could have been disastrous. Fortunately, they managed to figure it out and didn’t head out to sea. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story reminded me how even experienced [oyster] farmers with years of working on the same body of water are at the mercy of changing conditions. It may look calm and protected out there on the bay and estero, but it’s a landscape very much affected by many influences, both natural and man-made. I think the environment keeps farmers constantly on their toes.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Eat a local oyster, and you're supporting local jobs, something that makes putting oysters on the menu particularly appropriate for Labor Day. It's cold, wet work, tending to the rough-shelled babies out in the Bay, scrubbing and shucking, but it's an industry with deep roots, one that both provides jobs and presents a model for how for-profit agricultural businesses can work within protected parklands. \"Because Tomales Bay is part of the Gulf of the Farallones National Marine Sanctuary, the farm [Hog Island], like all those within this sanctuary, works with over twenty agencies that manage land use and water quality in and around the Bay,\" the authors write. Says Hog Island co-owner Terry Sawyer, \"None of this would be here without the Point Reyes National Seashore--we all owe a huge debt to its creation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that she's an oyster expert, what oyster does Meyer prefer? \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Lately I’m particularly fond of the Tomales Bay Oyster Company's golden nuggets. They are beautiful oysters that are tumbled, not grown on the bottom, and because of this their shells are really pretty. The oyster itself is a deep-cupped, plump, rich tasting and perfect-looking oyster -- really a delicacy. I believe TBOC is the only farm doing tumbled bags on the bays. I prefer them freshly shucked, on the half shell with a squeeze of lemon. I like their briny taste of the ocean and want the full flavor of that, especially as we come into the winter months when they are at their prime. \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Oysters with Chorizo Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Summary:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>This recipe, adapted from the book \u003cstrong>Oyster Culture \u003c/strong>by Gwendolyn Marks and Doreen Schmid, comes from the kitchen of The Marshall Store, a popular seafood restaurant on the eastern side of Tomales Bay. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>From the Marshall Store\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/09/oysters-recipe.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/09/oysters-recipe.jpg\" alt=\"Oysters with Chorizo Sauce. Photo by Gwendolyn Meyer\" title=\"Oysters with Chorizo Sauce. Photo by Gwendolyn Meyer\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32730\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oysters with Chorizo Sauce. Photo copyright Gwendolyn Meyer\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep time:\u003c/strong> 10 minutes, plus 1 hour's chilling time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook time:\u003c/strong> 5 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total time:\u003c/strong> 15 minutes, plus 1 hour's chilling time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 24 oysters, serves 6\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 lb fresh Mexican-style chorizo sausage, removed from casing\u003cbr>\n1 cup (8 oz) unsalted butter, softened\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp finely chopped parsley\u003cbr>\n24 oysters \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Soften butter at room temperature. Saute chorizo until thoroughly cooked, then crumble. Place in refrigerator to cool. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Place butter in a small bowl and break up with a wooden spoon. Add cooled chorizo and mix thoroughly. Add parsley. Place the mixture in the middle of a sheet of waxed paper. Roll into a 2-inch wide log, twist ends shut, and chill in the refrigerator until firm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Prepare a gas or charcoal grill. While grill is heating, shuck oysters and leave in shells. When grill is hot, top each opened oyster with a thin slice of butter cut from roll. Cover and cook just until the butter starts to bubble. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: If you don't have an outdoor grill, these oysters can also be cooked under the broiler. To broil, cover an ovenproof plate or platter with a layer of slightly moistened rock salt about 1 inch deep. Set oysters, in shells, on the rock salt, making sure they are level. Top each oyster with a thin slice of chorizo butter. Broil just until the butter starts to bubble. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Carlo Petrini, Slow Food Founder Kicks Off UCB Food Politics Class",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/IMG_1950.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/IMG_1950.jpg\" alt=\"Slow Food Founder Carlo Petrini\" title=\"Slow Food Founder Carlo Petrini\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32629\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Carlo Petrini, Slow Food founder/president and Corby Kummer, food writer/interpreter\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Twenty years ago \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carlo_Petrini\">Carlo Petrini\u003c/a>, founded Slow Food in an effort to resist McDonalds efforts to erect the Golden Arches in one of the most historical areas of Rome. Since then Petrini's work has spawned an international movement aimed at overhauling global food systems that he says are unhealthy and way out of balance. Petrini gave an impassioned lecture at U.C. Berkeley Tuesday night. While he spoke in vivid Italian, food writer Corby Kummer interpreted. Petrini seemed the perfect choice to inagurate the first class of \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanissefoundation.org/edible-education-101\">Edible Education 101: The Rise and the Future of the Food Movement\u003c/a>. The course is being co-taught by J-school professor, and author, \u003ca href=\"http://michaelpollan.com/\">Michael Pollan\u003c/a> and Executive Director of \u003ca href=\"http://www.peoplesgrocery.org/\">People's Grocery\u003c/a> in West Oakland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2011/08/19/nikki-henderson-on-the-frontlines-of-edible-education/\">Nikki Henderson\u003c/a>. The premise of the class is that food is political. Students and members of the public are given a chance to explore pressing issues such as food access, distribution and nutrition. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/IMG_19331.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/IMG_19331.jpg\" alt=\"Students checking in for Edible Education \" title=\"Students checking in for Edible Education \" width=\"500\" height=\"366\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32633\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>UC Berkeley students checking in for Edible Education\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Student enrollment for the 13-week course filled up within minutes. The popular classes are also being \u003ca href=\"http://www.ticketweb.com/snl/EventListings.action?pl=panisse&orgId=130613\">offered to the public\u003c/a>, free of charge and \u003ca href=\"http://www.bamco.com/\">Bon Appétit Management Co.\u003c/a> (BAMCO) is sponsoring the \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hr5receWm4A&feature=player_embedded\">webcast on YouTube\u003c/a>. In the audience Tuesday night were freshman Bridget Smith and Sarah Branoff. They said they are taking the course because, as undergrads, they don't usually get a chance to take a journalism class at Berkeley. They both like food and baking and have never even heard of \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/about/alice-waters/\">Alice Waters\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanissefoundation.org/\">Waters' Chez Panisse Foundation \u003c/a>is helping fund the class. David Park is a Venture Capitalist from Foster City. Park, who puts together health and wellness portfolios, says he is always on the lookout for who to hire and who to fund in the food and nutrition arena. Claudia Weisburd, another member of the public, is interested in how the course promises to integrate environmentalists, social justice activists and foodies. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/qz14gXMExt8\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm used to seeing these \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/08/23/edible-education-101-rock-stars-of-food-movement-teach-uc-berkeley-class/\">rock stars of the food movement\u003c/a> on TV talk shows and not a scuffed up college stage in front of a white screen with no graphics but somehow Petrini kept everyone's attention. The International Slow Food founder talked about how there are two worlds, one where people get too much to eat and another that doesn't get enough to eat. He talked about gastronomy and how recipes are only one small part. Agriculture, anthropology and political economics are all part of gastronomy. What Petrini wants to do is fix the bad parts of the engine of gastronomy. He said right now, around the world, one billion people are suffering from hunger and in the U.S. we are throwing away twenty-two tons of food a day. For many of us with access to food, we have become locked into diets that are making us sick. Petrini says if you understand food politics you can help create change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>Here are some new paradigms he mentioned:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Strengthen reciprocity -- Community supported agriculture is an example of this. You give money to a farmer and when he, or she, has it, they give you produce they have grown in return. Petrini's \u003ca href=\"http://www.slowfood.com/international/9/what-we-do\">Slow Food movement \u003c/a>is working to connect local food communities around the world.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Share community tools. Why should every house have a shovel or a lawnmower?\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Give more value to the people who produce food. Petrini calls farmers the intellectuals of the earth.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Give more value to food. Don't waste it.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>The goal, says Petrini, is a world in which we stop consuming so much but also help those struggling so that they can have more. Petrini told the audience consuming less doesn't mean you will be less happy. \"You will be more happy,\" he said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next week's class, which is already filled up, features film and theater director \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peter_Sellars\">Peter Sellars\u003c/a>. He will be discussing Food as Culture: the role of culture and the arts in deepening and strengthening the social and political roots of the food movement.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Slow Food founder gives an inspiration talk on the global food movement at U.C. Berkeley's popular new food politics class, Edible Education: The Rise and Future of the Food Movement. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/IMG_1950.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/IMG_1950.jpg\" alt=\"Slow Food Founder Carlo Petrini\" title=\"Slow Food Founder Carlo Petrini\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32629\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Carlo Petrini, Slow Food founder/president and Corby Kummer, food writer/interpreter\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Twenty years ago \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carlo_Petrini\">Carlo Petrini\u003c/a>, founded Slow Food in an effort to resist McDonalds efforts to erect the Golden Arches in one of the most historical areas of Rome. Since then Petrini's work has spawned an international movement aimed at overhauling global food systems that he says are unhealthy and way out of balance. Petrini gave an impassioned lecture at U.C. Berkeley Tuesday night. While he spoke in vivid Italian, food writer Corby Kummer interpreted. Petrini seemed the perfect choice to inagurate the first class of \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanissefoundation.org/edible-education-101\">Edible Education 101: The Rise and the Future of the Food Movement\u003c/a>. The course is being co-taught by J-school professor, and author, \u003ca href=\"http://michaelpollan.com/\">Michael Pollan\u003c/a> and Executive Director of \u003ca href=\"http://www.peoplesgrocery.org/\">People's Grocery\u003c/a> in West Oakland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2011/08/19/nikki-henderson-on-the-frontlines-of-edible-education/\">Nikki Henderson\u003c/a>. The premise of the class is that food is political. Students and members of the public are given a chance to explore pressing issues such as food access, distribution and nutrition. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/IMG_19331.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/IMG_19331.jpg\" alt=\"Students checking in for Edible Education \" title=\"Students checking in for Edible Education \" width=\"500\" height=\"366\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32633\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>UC Berkeley students checking in for Edible Education\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Student enrollment for the 13-week course filled up within minutes. The popular classes are also being \u003ca href=\"http://www.ticketweb.com/snl/EventListings.action?pl=panisse&orgId=130613\">offered to the public\u003c/a>, free of charge and \u003ca href=\"http://www.bamco.com/\">Bon Appétit Management Co.\u003c/a> (BAMCO) is sponsoring the \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hr5receWm4A&feature=player_embedded\">webcast on YouTube\u003c/a>. In the audience Tuesday night were freshman Bridget Smith and Sarah Branoff. They said they are taking the course because, as undergrads, they don't usually get a chance to take a journalism class at Berkeley. They both like food and baking and have never even heard of \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/about/alice-waters/\">Alice Waters\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanissefoundation.org/\">Waters' Chez Panisse Foundation \u003c/a>is helping fund the class. David Park is a Venture Capitalist from Foster City. Park, who puts together health and wellness portfolios, says he is always on the lookout for who to hire and who to fund in the food and nutrition arena. Claudia Weisburd, another member of the public, is interested in how the course promises to integrate environmentalists, social justice activists and foodies. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/qz14gXMExt8\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm used to seeing these \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/08/23/edible-education-101-rock-stars-of-food-movement-teach-uc-berkeley-class/\">rock stars of the food movement\u003c/a> on TV talk shows and not a scuffed up college stage in front of a white screen with no graphics but somehow Petrini kept everyone's attention. The International Slow Food founder talked about how there are two worlds, one where people get too much to eat and another that doesn't get enough to eat. He talked about gastronomy and how recipes are only one small part. Agriculture, anthropology and political economics are all part of gastronomy. What Petrini wants to do is fix the bad parts of the engine of gastronomy. He said right now, around the world, one billion people are suffering from hunger and in the U.S. we are throwing away twenty-two tons of food a day. For many of us with access to food, we have become locked into diets that are making us sick. Petrini says if you understand food politics you can help create change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>Here are some new paradigms he mentioned:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Strengthen reciprocity -- Community supported agriculture is an example of this. You give money to a farmer and when he, or she, has it, they give you produce they have grown in return. Petrini's \u003ca href=\"http://www.slowfood.com/international/9/what-we-do\">Slow Food movement \u003c/a>is working to connect local food communities around the world.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Share community tools. Why should every house have a shovel or a lawnmower?\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Give more value to the people who produce food. Petrini calls farmers the intellectuals of the earth.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Give more value to food. Don't waste it.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>The goal, says Petrini, is a world in which we stop consuming so much but also help those struggling so that they can have more. Petrini told the audience consuming less doesn't mean you will be less happy. \"You will be more happy,\" he said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next week's class, which is already filled up, features film and theater director \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peter_Sellars\">Peter Sellars\u003c/a>. He will be discussing Food as Culture: the role of culture and the arts in deepening and strengthening the social and political roots of the food movement.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"tagline": "Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time",
"info": "KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.",
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},
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"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
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"order": 8
},
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"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
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"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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"order": 1
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"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 9
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"hidden-brain": {
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"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
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"source": "NPR"
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"how-i-built-this": {
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"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
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"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"order": 18
},
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},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
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"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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"stitcher": "https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
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