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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_ext-791427.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have a love/hate relationship with wine bars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the one hand, I love a good one. Give me a glass of something silky and bold, a plate of nibbles, and a comfy seat where I don't have to read lips to hold a conversation, and I'm as happy as a paparazzo outside the LA courthouse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But these days, the term \"wine bar\" is bandied about so frequently, it's lost its meaning. Too often it's just a marketing ploy to encourage folks to frequent the bar of a restaurant that doesn't have a liquor license.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when \u003ca href=\"http://www.nuasf.com\">\u003cstrong>Nua\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> opened as a restaurant and wine bar, I was suspicious. And rightfully so: though the wine list is long and esoteric, it's more restaurant than wine bar (and they've since dropped the term from their website). But I've forgiven them for hopping on the bandwagon because the food is utterly superb.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Anna Bautista takes her cues from the Mediterranean, hopscotching from Provence to Andalucia to Italy, and the laidback charm those places are famous for has rubbed off on the four-month-old restaurant. On two of our visits, we made a reservation at the last minute -- I'm talking 4:30 pm on Saturday for a 7:30 table that night -- and on the third we changed the time. (Twice. What can I say? I'm indecisive.) Every time they were accommodating, and even sat us early.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_int-707506.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nua is clearly cultivating a neighborhood vibe, and when the weather permits, they fling open the front windows accordion-style to better channel the energy of their North Beach surroundings. The comfortable interior is what I'd call retro-modern, with color-blocked orange and cream leather banquettes, and shades of cool blue, orange, and honey-brown throughout. The staff is friendly, they split plates and glasses of wine without being asked if they know you plan to share, and they're knowledgeable about the wine list. On each visit, we enjoyed unfamiliar wines, like a Spanish Crianza from Bierzo to a white wine from Greece. My only quibble with the wine service is that the pours were on the small side our first two visits, but by the third they'd normalized. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food, however, is outstanding, and it's why Nua has become my new favorite restaurant. Each meal began with a small plate of foccacia bread and a pool of golden-green olive oil. The menu is loosely divided into small and large plates so you can go the appetizer-entree route, or graze on a series of small plates (though the waitstaff doesn't explicitly advertise that option). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_sardines-737526.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ordered the sardines escabeche ($10) twice. Two meaty slabs of fish were arranged on a landscape of crisp Blue Lake green beans, miniature cauliflower florets, sweet pickled shallots, and currants. The sardines tasted light and fresh, and the dish teetered pleasantly between crisp and soft, tart and sweet, surf and earth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_cauli-758730.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also ordered the side of roasted cauliflower with capers, pine nuts, and parsley ($5) each time. If you aren't a cauliflower fan, a bowl of this will change your mind. Roasting caramelizes and crisps up the tiny white florets, and the zesty dressing of olive oil, capers, and parsley makes them positively addictive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_salad-717581.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Initially I balked at ordering the endive salad with white peaches, blue cheese, and hazelnuts ($9); it just sounded humdrum. But one bite changed my mind. The peaches were Platonic examples of their species -- sweet, juicy, floral, and full-flavored. There was just enough champagne-tarragon vinaigrette to match the bracing blue cheese and bitter endive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_piquillo-782377.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The piquillo peppers ($9) we ordered on visit two were stuffed with a whipped salt cod and potato brandade, flash-fried, and served with a sauce of garlic, shallots, and parsley as well as some frilly frisee fronds. They were good, but they didn't get my tail wagging as much as other things did. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Parisian herbed gnocchi ($14) melted in my mouth, and the baby artichokes and mushrooms created an earthy stew around them. The best part about the gambas al ajillo ($11) weren't the plump shrimp, but the fiery broth they were bathed in. When the prawns were gone, I used the foccacia fingers to soak up the robust juices. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Housemade merquez sausage offset with a cucumber, fennel, and tomato salad ($13) tempted us on the first visit, and I loved the contrast of hot and cold layered within the dish. But the veal and pork albondigas ($8) may have edged it out as my favorite meat dish. The meatballs were soft but held their shape, and the flavor was so clean and subtle that I could almost taste the milk fed to the little calf. The almond bread sauce was a revelation -- no tomato to strongarm the delicate morsels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_albondigas-739397.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the small plates, entrees are lighter than they are heavy, and bursting with flavor. A recent seafood risotto with corn ($20) tasted of summer, while the quail\u003cbr>was accented with a plucky plum sauce and crisp green beans. Though portions were generous, neither left us feeling like we'd overeaten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The blueberry fromage blanc tart ($7.50) was a light, fresh way to end the meal, but it was the butterscotch pot de creme ($7.50) we found ourselves oohing and aahing over time after time. Unlike its beloved Zuni cousin, this is a plain pot de creme, flecked with vanilla and covered in a layer of rich, supple butterscotch sauce. The creaminess of the custard is the perfect canvas for sweet butterscotch, though they ought to think carefully about the cookies served alongside. The almond cookie complimented the butterscotch beautifully, but the rich chocolate brownie battled the sweeter pot de creme all the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_pot-798099.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Nua, the food isn't flagrantly experimental, but it is flawless. The wine list is full of surprises, the staff is easy-going, and the atmosphere is pleasant. No matter what you call it, that's my favorite kind of place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Note: This review was based on 3 anonymous visits.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nua\u003cbr>550 Green Street at Columbus\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 433-4000\u003cbr>Open 7 nights a week\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_ext-791427.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have a love/hate relationship with wine bars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the one hand, I love a good one. Give me a glass of something silky and bold, a plate of nibbles, and a comfy seat where I don't have to read lips to hold a conversation, and I'm as happy as a paparazzo outside the LA courthouse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But these days, the term \"wine bar\" is bandied about so frequently, it's lost its meaning. Too often it's just a marketing ploy to encourage folks to frequent the bar of a restaurant that doesn't have a liquor license.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when \u003ca href=\"http://www.nuasf.com\">\u003cstrong>Nua\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> opened as a restaurant and wine bar, I was suspicious. And rightfully so: though the wine list is long and esoteric, it's more restaurant than wine bar (and they've since dropped the term from their website). But I've forgiven them for hopping on the bandwagon because the food is utterly superb.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Anna Bautista takes her cues from the Mediterranean, hopscotching from Provence to Andalucia to Italy, and the laidback charm those places are famous for has rubbed off on the four-month-old restaurant. On two of our visits, we made a reservation at the last minute -- I'm talking 4:30 pm on Saturday for a 7:30 table that night -- and on the third we changed the time. (Twice. What can I say? I'm indecisive.) Every time they were accommodating, and even sat us early.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_int-707506.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nua is clearly cultivating a neighborhood vibe, and when the weather permits, they fling open the front windows accordion-style to better channel the energy of their North Beach surroundings. The comfortable interior is what I'd call retro-modern, with color-blocked orange and cream leather banquettes, and shades of cool blue, orange, and honey-brown throughout. The staff is friendly, they split plates and glasses of wine without being asked if they know you plan to share, and they're knowledgeable about the wine list. On each visit, we enjoyed unfamiliar wines, like a Spanish Crianza from Bierzo to a white wine from Greece. My only quibble with the wine service is that the pours were on the small side our first two visits, but by the third they'd normalized. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food, however, is outstanding, and it's why Nua has become my new favorite restaurant. Each meal began with a small plate of foccacia bread and a pool of golden-green olive oil. The menu is loosely divided into small and large plates so you can go the appetizer-entree route, or graze on a series of small plates (though the waitstaff doesn't explicitly advertise that option). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_sardines-737526.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ordered the sardines escabeche ($10) twice. Two meaty slabs of fish were arranged on a landscape of crisp Blue Lake green beans, miniature cauliflower florets, sweet pickled shallots, and currants. The sardines tasted light and fresh, and the dish teetered pleasantly between crisp and soft, tart and sweet, surf and earth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_cauli-758730.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also ordered the side of roasted cauliflower with capers, pine nuts, and parsley ($5) each time. If you aren't a cauliflower fan, a bowl of this will change your mind. Roasting caramelizes and crisps up the tiny white florets, and the zesty dressing of olive oil, capers, and parsley makes them positively addictive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_salad-717581.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Initially I balked at ordering the endive salad with white peaches, blue cheese, and hazelnuts ($9); it just sounded humdrum. But one bite changed my mind. The peaches were Platonic examples of their species -- sweet, juicy, floral, and full-flavored. There was just enough champagne-tarragon vinaigrette to match the bracing blue cheese and bitter endive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_piquillo-782377.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The piquillo peppers ($9) we ordered on visit two were stuffed with a whipped salt cod and potato brandade, flash-fried, and served with a sauce of garlic, shallots, and parsley as well as some frilly frisee fronds. They were good, but they didn't get my tail wagging as much as other things did. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Parisian herbed gnocchi ($14) melted in my mouth, and the baby artichokes and mushrooms created an earthy stew around them. The best part about the gambas al ajillo ($11) weren't the plump shrimp, but the fiery broth they were bathed in. When the prawns were gone, I used the foccacia fingers to soak up the robust juices. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Housemade merquez sausage offset with a cucumber, fennel, and tomato salad ($13) tempted us on the first visit, and I loved the contrast of hot and cold layered within the dish. But the veal and pork albondigas ($8) may have edged it out as my favorite meat dish. The meatballs were soft but held their shape, and the flavor was so clean and subtle that I could almost taste the milk fed to the little calf. The almond bread sauce was a revelation -- no tomato to strongarm the delicate morsels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_albondigas-739397.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the small plates, entrees are lighter than they are heavy, and bursting with flavor. A recent seafood risotto with corn ($20) tasted of summer, while the quail\u003cbr>was accented with a plucky plum sauce and crisp green beans. Though portions were generous, neither left us feeling like we'd overeaten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The blueberry fromage blanc tart ($7.50) was a light, fresh way to end the meal, but it was the butterscotch pot de creme ($7.50) we found ourselves oohing and aahing over time after time. Unlike its beloved Zuni cousin, this is a plain pot de creme, flecked with vanilla and covered in a layer of rich, supple butterscotch sauce. The creaminess of the custard is the perfect canvas for sweet butterscotch, though they ought to think carefully about the cookies served alongside. The almond cookie complimented the butterscotch beautifully, but the rich chocolate brownie battled the sweeter pot de creme all the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_pot-798099.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Nua, the food isn't flagrantly experimental, but it is flawless. The wine list is full of surprises, the staff is easy-going, and the atmosphere is pleasant. No matter what you call it, that's my favorite kind of place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Note: This review was based on 3 anonymous visits.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nua\u003cbr>550 Green Street at Columbus\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 433-4000\u003cbr>Open 7 nights a week\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Salumi Stars at Bar Bambino",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bb-709367.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bb-709364.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The thing that struck me speechless was the salumi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know what you're thinking. \"Salumi?\" you're thinking. \"That is so, like, 2006.\" Maybe. But when it's as good as it is at \u003ca href=\"http://www.barbambino.com\">Bar Bambino\u003c/a>, it never goes out of style.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The small salumi plate ($9.50) was the first thing my boyfriend and I settled on during our inaugural meal at Bar Bambino. The selections, which change daily, were chosen for us by Alex Potter, Bar Bambino's salumi guy. He and his batons of porcine goodness occupy a small corner of the main dining room, just to the right of the bar, where he works feverishly to keep up with the plates that circle 'round and 'round the room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumi-764517.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumi-764515.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clad in an impeccable white chef's coat, Alex himself delivered a wooden tray to our table that glistened with creamy pork fat. It was stacked five rows deep with three kinds of housemade salame as well as prosciutto and pancetta. He walked us through each one so that there was no doubt what we were eating -- an oversight too many good restaurants make.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is the ciauscolo,\" he said, pointing to the one farthest from me. As owner Christopher Losa explained via email, ciauscolo comes from \u003ca href=\"http://www.le-marche.com/\">the Marche region of Italy\u003c/a>, just south of Emilia-Romagna on the eastern seaboard. \"Ours is done in a bit firmer form than most (it's traditional in the Marche to have ciauscolo spreadable, not unlike French rillettes) because I like to have the purity of the meat flavors and seasonings be fully accessible and not competing with bread,\" he wrote. Bar Bambino flavors their version with garlic and allspice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumicloseup-779540.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumicloseup-779538.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next there was a salame toscano, made with red wine and black peppercorns, and a finocchiona, distinguished by fennel seeds, lavender, and other aromatic herbs. I picked up a sliver and held it up to the light. It was sliced so whisper thin, I could have read the menu through it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We happily munched our way around the plate, letting slices of barely crisped pancetta melt on our tongues and fighting over the last slice of finocchiona. Christopher says that all of Bar Bambino's own salame is made from Duroc pork that is raised naturally in Iowa. \"But we recently found a Duroc-mix locally (Sonoma) that our next batches will be from. I'm excited to see how the local pig fairs [sic] from a taste/consistency perspective.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to Bar Bambino's housemade salumi, all of which is made in a curing room in Geyserville, Christopher offers a sopressata from \u003ca href=\"http://www.salumeriabiellese.com/\">Salumeria Biellese\u003c/a>, a New York-based artisan producer that's been around since the roaring twenties, and plans to expand his selection by offering goodies from other like-minded producers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbinside-731887.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbinside-731883.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I am an avid supporter of the renaissance in cured meat artistry that is occurring locally and I want to offer the best of Italian-style cured meats that we can source,\" he continued. \"Just as I can't make the best wine, cheese or bread to offer my customers, I know that somebody can do more than we can alone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My boyfriend and I enjoyed the rest of our meal equally well, from the \"al ginepro\" bruschetta ($8.00) -- creamy chunks of chicken liver enlivened by a sprinkling of fleur de sel -- to the polpette ($14.75), meatballs in a light sauce of tomatoes, onions, and chard. My only real complaint was the chintzy wine pours (I noticed punier than normal glasses at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nuasf.com\">Nua\u003c/a>, too -- a disturbing new trend?). As annoying as it is to pay good money for a Lilliputian glass of vino, it's even more frustrating to be constantly waving down your server.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the meal was lovely, and the salumi some of the best in the city. This little piggie cried \"whee, whee, whee\" all the way home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bar Bambino\u003cbr>2931 16th Street\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 701-VINO\u003cbr>Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clad in an impeccable white chef's coat, Alex himself delivered a wooden tray to our table that glistened with creamy pork fat. It was stacked five rows deep with three kinds of housemade salame as well as prosciutto and pancetta. He walked us through each one so that there was no doubt what we were eating -- an oversight too many good restaurants make.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is the ciauscolo,\" he said, pointing to the one farthest from me. As owner Christopher Losa explained via email, ciauscolo comes from \u003ca href=\"http://www.le-marche.com/\">the Marche region of Italy\u003c/a>, just south of Emilia-Romagna on the eastern seaboard. \"Ours is done in a bit firmer form than most (it's traditional in the Marche to have ciauscolo spreadable, not unlike French rillettes) because I like to have the purity of the meat flavors and seasonings be fully accessible and not competing with bread,\" he wrote. Bar Bambino flavors their version with garlic and allspice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumicloseup-779540.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumicloseup-779538.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next there was a salame toscano, made with red wine and black peppercorns, and a finocchiona, distinguished by fennel seeds, lavender, and other aromatic herbs. I picked up a sliver and held it up to the light. It was sliced so whisper thin, I could have read the menu through it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We happily munched our way around the plate, letting slices of barely crisped pancetta melt on our tongues and fighting over the last slice of finocchiona. Christopher says that all of Bar Bambino's own salame is made from Duroc pork that is raised naturally in Iowa. \"But we recently found a Duroc-mix locally (Sonoma) that our next batches will be from. I'm excited to see how the local pig fairs [sic] from a taste/consistency perspective.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to Bar Bambino's housemade salumi, all of which is made in a curing room in Geyserville, Christopher offers a sopressata from \u003ca href=\"http://www.salumeriabiellese.com/\">Salumeria Biellese\u003c/a>, a New York-based artisan producer that's been around since the roaring twenties, and plans to expand his selection by offering goodies from other like-minded producers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbinside-731887.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbinside-731883.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I am an avid supporter of the renaissance in cured meat artistry that is occurring locally and I want to offer the best of Italian-style cured meats that we can source,\" he continued. \"Just as I can't make the best wine, cheese or bread to offer my customers, I know that somebody can do more than we can alone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My boyfriend and I enjoyed the rest of our meal equally well, from the \"al ginepro\" bruschetta ($8.00) -- creamy chunks of chicken liver enlivened by a sprinkling of fleur de sel -- to the polpette ($14.75), meatballs in a light sauce of tomatoes, onions, and chard. My only real complaint was the chintzy wine pours (I noticed punier than normal glasses at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nuasf.com\">Nua\u003c/a>, too -- a disturbing new trend?). As annoying as it is to pay good money for a Lilliputian glass of vino, it's even more frustrating to be constantly waving down your server.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the meal was lovely, and the salumi some of the best in the city. This little piggie cried \"whee, whee, whee\" all the way home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bar Bambino\u003cbr>2931 16th Street\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 701-VINO\u003cbr>Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The French Laundry: Heavy on the Starch",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Laundry-Pin-733611.JPG\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Laundry-Pin-732627.JPG\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are some things in this world best left to the imagination; people, places or events so idealized they could never live up to the expectations built up around them -- your wedding day or a menage a trois with a pair of identical twins or, in this case, dinner at what has been referred to as the best restaurant in the world-- \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/tfl/tfloverview.htm\">The French Laundry\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ten years ago, a friend organized a chauffeur-driven pilgrimage to the French Laundry. Being fresh out of culinary school, I could scarcely afford the dinner, so I politely declined the invitation. Besides, I had been taught that limousines were for funerals and diplomats, so riding in one was out of the question. I was anything but diplomatic in those days and, had I chosen to spend what little money I had from my $8.50 an hour kitchen job, the only funeral I would have been attending would have been my own after my parents decided to kill me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd regretted not going ever since. I've since wondered what it would be like to dine there. When my friend Lyle invited me to join him in place of his mostly vegetarian and largely non-drinking girlfriend, I said yes. Two days later, I went to see Thomas Keller interviewed along with Dorothy Cann Hamilton at the Commonwealth Club. I enjoyed hearing him discuss his philosophies regarding life, food and a life in food. I was excited that I would soon be sitting in his dining room eating what he had to offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't think anyone living beneath a certain sky-high tax bracket can go to The French Laundry without making it into some sort of event. It is not, by it's own design, a place one goes to grab something to eat. When we visit, we pack our emotional baggage full of inflated expectations and drag it behind us through the little garden and into the front door. It is the one thing the hostess who greets you is unable to check.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My fellow diners and I arrived on time for our 6:30 reservation and were whisked into a little side room, dimly lit and cool like a cave with walls of river rock, where our table awaited us. A little window cut into the rock showed off the wine room. If this was, as I had sensed, a place of worship, we were seated in its chapel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two couples shared our space. One pair dined with such grim seriousness that I thought one of them-- or their relationship-- might have only days to live. The other couple, from Houston as I gathered from their limited conversation, looked a little bewildered and on their best behaviour. I leaned into the center of our table and whispered to my dinner companions, \"Why is everyone so quiet? No one seems to be having a good time!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was true. Except for us, of course.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our waiter soon introduced himself, explaining and expanding upon the nine course menu. He was aware of the two bottles of Burgundy we had brought with us and suggested that we might start with a bottle of champagne, since it went so well with the first four courses. Lyle was presented with a wine list and we were given a moment to look it over. Lyle passed the list over to me and I browsed. We had agreed amongst ourselves that we weren't interested in champagne, but some sort of white wine was definitely in order. I saw a short list of Austrian wines that interested me. When the waiter returned, asking which champagne we might prefer, I told him we were interested in drinking a still white wine instead. Feeling rather dense, I said as much and handed the list back over to Lyle. Our waiter once again suggested champagne. We once again declined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enter the sommelier. We assumed he was the sommelier, since he was very knowledgable about wine, but he did not introduce himself as such. I explained that I was looking at Austian wines. Lyle mentioned his preference for crisp minerality, for something interesting at around $60. The gentleman returned almost instantly with precisely what we were looking for-- and Austrian Riesling. We were very delighted with his selection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food began its slow, steady dance to our table. And I do mean dance. Movements are choreographed. Servers perform what is known as ballet service-- dishes are served in synchronized sweeps by, in our case, two people. Plates from the left hands glide down in front of diners one and three followed by plates from the right, supplying diners two and four. It is all seemless, perfect. A simple, well flavored gougère here, a doll-sized black sesame tuille cone filled with Scottish salmon served there. Both charming. The two amuses seemed to carry with them bold-faced bullet points in what I imagine to be Thomas Keller's mission statement: the former promised a mastery of understatement, while the latter promised the evening of theater that lay ahead of us. Conflicting messages certainly, but not incompatible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our food selections were noted and our deciphering of lampshades applauded by our waiter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Laundry-Lamp-797913.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Laundry-Lamp-797263.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wash. Do not use bleach. Iron. I wondered how many of the other diners in the restaurant had an intimate knowledge of laundering. We turned our attention briefly to the linen. Not a crease or stain to be found. I noticed that my napkin was the size of an adult diaper and was, in fact, folded as such over my lap. I quietly tucked the edges around my hips and under my crotch and hoped no one noticed as I looked down to admire my handiwork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the meal under way, our conversation turned to food, as it invariably does with foodies. \"There's a slight bitterness to the foie gras. What is that?\" .\"Lyle? Okay. Did that little Tokyo turnip just explode in your mouth like it did in mine?\" \"Did he say Jurassic Period salt?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And such like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am pleased to tell you-- pleased to tell myself, at any rate-- that I was too busy enjoying the company of my dining companions and the food before us to be snapping many photos of the food. I did manage one or two, like the one of the Line-Caught Atlantic Halibut shown below:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Laundry-Halibut-724276.JPG\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Laundry-Halibut-723519.JPG\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I made an attempt to capture the pretzel rolls-- Lyle's favorite thing-- on film, but it looked rather unappealing in the photograph. \"Did you try a pretzel roll yet? God! It tastes just like a pretzel!\" We then explained to him that it was, in fact, a soft pretzel which merely lacked a knot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we finished off the bottle of Austrian Riesling and tucked into a beautiful Volnay given to Lyle as a birthday present, our conversation became more animated. So, too, did the main dining room. I actually heard laughter from some place other than our table. I turned around to see a room full of 55 to 65 year-olds dining and chatting. Over my right shoulder, a table of European businessmen with deep voices and, surprisingly bright-colored socks. I wondered what they were talking about and where they would go after dinner. I made no plans to join them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back at our table, the conversation turned to Evelyn Waugh-- Brideshead Revisited and my favorite character, A-A-Antoine. He had a stutter. Lyle's friend Jack and I offered our impersonations. I asked if he had ever seen or read \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0059410/?fr=c2M9MXxsbT01MDB8ZnQ9MXxrdz0xfGZiPXV8dHQ9MXxteD0yMHxodG1sPTF8c2l0ZT1kZnxxPVRoZSBMb3ZlZCBPbmV8bm09MXxjbz0xfHBuPTA_;fc=2;ft=20;fm=1\">The Loved One\u003c/a>. He offered a detailed rendition Liberace's brilliant upselling of funeral services at Whispering Glades. I was impressed. Later in the meal, I learned why Jack took such an interest in that scene-- he's a funeral director.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At this point I went up the narrow staircase-- a staff member nearly hurling himself over the bannister to make way for me-- to wash my hands for the second time and, for the second time, found the single occupancy room empty and spotless. It seemed as if it were merely for show-- toilet tissue wrapped in silk ribbon, unused. Cute, but I wondered if people in polite society ever rid themselves of unneccesary body weight, or if they had people to do that for them. I returned to our table to find my diaper folded neatly on the table. We finished our sixth course -- a Snake River Farm \"Calotte de Boeuf Grillée\"-- with not too much comment. It was excellent. Techinically perfect. Of course it was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet something was not quite right. At least to me. I couldn't quite put my finger on it. The food was uniformly beautiful, flavorful and perfectly executed to the detection of both my eyes and palate. The dishware and silver were often conversation pieces. The rooms were lovely-- well-appointed and understated as though to counterbalance the fact that this building once housed a brothel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the staff? A sudden chill came over me. Or was that the Glacé de Fruits Exotiques set before me after the cheese course?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was, below the smooth, perfect surfaces of the French Laundry, a subtle uneasiness; a tautness under its skin, like that of a woman fresh from a facelift-- eager to please her wealthy lover and unable to relax her facial muscles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I scanned the members of the staff. Everyone was clean, very attractive and well tailored. They all smiled, but not too widely, as though no one should have a better time than the guests. Eye contact was always just narrowly avoided. Or did I imagine that? If our waiter would attempt levity, he would say, \"I am only joking\" before any of us had even the time to react. The fear of offense was fascinating. There was a Stepford-like quality to the members of the front-of-house staff that I found troublesome.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When he spoke at the Commonwealth Club, Thomas Keller stated that \"Cooking is about repetition-- the perfection of the task at hand.\" I would agree with him there. Mr. Keller has perfected his cooking through strict repetition. But that repetition seems to makes its way into the dining room as well, which is unfortunate. When our food was brought to the table, it was described in marvelous detail, but it the delivery of information gave the impression of having been memorized, scripted and completely uniform. No color. Words like gougère and gratinée were mispronounced.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When our bill was presented, we were disappointed but not terribly offended that we had been charged $50 for uncorking the bottle we'd brought and had opened for us. In my experience as a waiter, if a guest brings a bottle of wine yet purchases a bottle from a restaurant's wine list, the corkage fee is waived. But I do not make policy and we were already of the mind to pay it before we even sat down, but it struck a slightly sour note at the end of our evening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Laundry-Bill-707147.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Laundry-Bill-706377.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we looked over our bill, Jack made a generous offer-- that he would pay for the food if the rest of us took care of the rest. Then the waiter, who happened to be standing between Lyle and Jack, offered that he would be happy to split the check four ways, if we liked. Jack replied that that woulnd't be necessary and that we just needed a minute to figure out the bill. Instead of leaving us alone with our bill, our waiter picked it up from the table. I cannot remember why, but I'm sure there was a logical reason for it. Lyle asked what the total was and, in what I hope was an attempt to be helpful, our waiter then read our bill-- which was, I'm sure quite conservative by French Laundry standards-- out loud.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Food: $1,020... Wine: $166...\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were pleased to know that everyone in the room knew how much we spent. Perhaps our waiter thought that a guest at one of the other tables might avail us of his or her superior math skills. We were, all of us, quietly horrified.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The check was paid. Shortbread cookies and copies of the night's menu were distributed, two round coasters with the restaurant's name on them that reminded me of dress shields were pocketed and we left.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the drive home, we talked about our experience. We all enjoyed it very much. The food was wonderful, but only the little Tokyo turnips and chocolate-covered macadamia nuts were hailed as \"amazing.\" We were well-sated bodily. Just enough food, just enough wine. But none of us saw it as truly fantastic. Not the best meal ever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that is our own damned fault. Or mine, at least. There must be such tremendous pressure to operating a restaurant like The French Laundry. It's an institution. It's a shrine to which so many come expecting the greatest meal of their lives. With food prices of $240 ($270 if one opts for foie gras), one almost demands it. How can one restaurant satisfy all the unspoken expectations of, well, everyone who has ever dined there, or ever will? It can't.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps Mr. Keller is correct in his approach of uniformity and repitition. It seems to be working for him and, I'm sure, the majority of diners there. It is his consistency that has kept his machinery well-oiled and running more or less smoothly since 1994. I just don't think it's for me. Which I can accept as either my own virtue or my own flaw. Whatever the case, it is my own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am, however, extremely glad I had the opportunity to dine there. I applaude Keller's food, his technique and his sense of fun-- at least on the plate. Now if he could just get his waitstaff to loosen up...\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": "There are some things in this world best left to the imagination; people, places or events so idealized they could never live up to the expectations built up around them -- your wedding day or a menage a trois with a pair of identical twins or, in this case, dinner at what has been referred",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Laundry-Pin-733611.JPG\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Laundry-Pin-732627.JPG\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are some things in this world best left to the imagination; people, places or events so idealized they could never live up to the expectations built up around them -- your wedding day or a menage a trois with a pair of identical twins or, in this case, dinner at what has been referred to as the best restaurant in the world-- \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/tfl/tfloverview.htm\">The French Laundry\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ten years ago, a friend organized a chauffeur-driven pilgrimage to the French Laundry. Being fresh out of culinary school, I could scarcely afford the dinner, so I politely declined the invitation. Besides, I had been taught that limousines were for funerals and diplomats, so riding in one was out of the question. I was anything but diplomatic in those days and, had I chosen to spend what little money I had from my $8.50 an hour kitchen job, the only funeral I would have been attending would have been my own after my parents decided to kill me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd regretted not going ever since. I've since wondered what it would be like to dine there. When my friend Lyle invited me to join him in place of his mostly vegetarian and largely non-drinking girlfriend, I said yes. Two days later, I went to see Thomas Keller interviewed along with Dorothy Cann Hamilton at the Commonwealth Club. I enjoyed hearing him discuss his philosophies regarding life, food and a life in food. I was excited that I would soon be sitting in his dining room eating what he had to offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't think anyone living beneath a certain sky-high tax bracket can go to The French Laundry without making it into some sort of event. It is not, by it's own design, a place one goes to grab something to eat. When we visit, we pack our emotional baggage full of inflated expectations and drag it behind us through the little garden and into the front door. It is the one thing the hostess who greets you is unable to check.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My fellow diners and I arrived on time for our 6:30 reservation and were whisked into a little side room, dimly lit and cool like a cave with walls of river rock, where our table awaited us. A little window cut into the rock showed off the wine room. If this was, as I had sensed, a place of worship, we were seated in its chapel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two couples shared our space. One pair dined with such grim seriousness that I thought one of them-- or their relationship-- might have only days to live. The other couple, from Houston as I gathered from their limited conversation, looked a little bewildered and on their best behaviour. I leaned into the center of our table and whispered to my dinner companions, \"Why is everyone so quiet? No one seems to be having a good time!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was true. Except for us, of course.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our waiter soon introduced himself, explaining and expanding upon the nine course menu. He was aware of the two bottles of Burgundy we had brought with us and suggested that we might start with a bottle of champagne, since it went so well with the first four courses. Lyle was presented with a wine list and we were given a moment to look it over. Lyle passed the list over to me and I browsed. We had agreed amongst ourselves that we weren't interested in champagne, but some sort of white wine was definitely in order. I saw a short list of Austrian wines that interested me. When the waiter returned, asking which champagne we might prefer, I told him we were interested in drinking a still white wine instead. Feeling rather dense, I said as much and handed the list back over to Lyle. Our waiter once again suggested champagne. We once again declined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enter the sommelier. We assumed he was the sommelier, since he was very knowledgable about wine, but he did not introduce himself as such. I explained that I was looking at Austian wines. Lyle mentioned his preference for crisp minerality, for something interesting at around $60. The gentleman returned almost instantly with precisely what we were looking for-- and Austrian Riesling. We were very delighted with his selection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food began its slow, steady dance to our table. And I do mean dance. Movements are choreographed. Servers perform what is known as ballet service-- dishes are served in synchronized sweeps by, in our case, two people. Plates from the left hands glide down in front of diners one and three followed by plates from the right, supplying diners two and four. It is all seemless, perfect. A simple, well flavored gougère here, a doll-sized black sesame tuille cone filled with Scottish salmon served there. Both charming. The two amuses seemed to carry with them bold-faced bullet points in what I imagine to be Thomas Keller's mission statement: the former promised a mastery of understatement, while the latter promised the evening of theater that lay ahead of us. Conflicting messages certainly, but not incompatible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our food selections were noted and our deciphering of lampshades applauded by our waiter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Laundry-Lamp-797913.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Laundry-Lamp-797263.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wash. Do not use bleach. Iron. I wondered how many of the other diners in the restaurant had an intimate knowledge of laundering. We turned our attention briefly to the linen. Not a crease or stain to be found. I noticed that my napkin was the size of an adult diaper and was, in fact, folded as such over my lap. I quietly tucked the edges around my hips and under my crotch and hoped no one noticed as I looked down to admire my handiwork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the meal under way, our conversation turned to food, as it invariably does with foodies. \"There's a slight bitterness to the foie gras. What is that?\" .\"Lyle? Okay. Did that little Tokyo turnip just explode in your mouth like it did in mine?\" \"Did he say Jurassic Period salt?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And such like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am pleased to tell you-- pleased to tell myself, at any rate-- that I was too busy enjoying the company of my dining companions and the food before us to be snapping many photos of the food. I did manage one or two, like the one of the Line-Caught Atlantic Halibut shown below:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Laundry-Halibut-724276.JPG\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Laundry-Halibut-723519.JPG\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I made an attempt to capture the pretzel rolls-- Lyle's favorite thing-- on film, but it looked rather unappealing in the photograph. \"Did you try a pretzel roll yet? God! It tastes just like a pretzel!\" We then explained to him that it was, in fact, a soft pretzel which merely lacked a knot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we finished off the bottle of Austrian Riesling and tucked into a beautiful Volnay given to Lyle as a birthday present, our conversation became more animated. So, too, did the main dining room. I actually heard laughter from some place other than our table. I turned around to see a room full of 55 to 65 year-olds dining and chatting. Over my right shoulder, a table of European businessmen with deep voices and, surprisingly bright-colored socks. I wondered what they were talking about and where they would go after dinner. I made no plans to join them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back at our table, the conversation turned to Evelyn Waugh-- Brideshead Revisited and my favorite character, A-A-Antoine. He had a stutter. Lyle's friend Jack and I offered our impersonations. I asked if he had ever seen or read \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0059410/?fr=c2M9MXxsbT01MDB8ZnQ9MXxrdz0xfGZiPXV8dHQ9MXxteD0yMHxodG1sPTF8c2l0ZT1kZnxxPVRoZSBMb3ZlZCBPbmV8bm09MXxjbz0xfHBuPTA_;fc=2;ft=20;fm=1\">The Loved One\u003c/a>. He offered a detailed rendition Liberace's brilliant upselling of funeral services at Whispering Glades. I was impressed. Later in the meal, I learned why Jack took such an interest in that scene-- he's a funeral director.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At this point I went up the narrow staircase-- a staff member nearly hurling himself over the bannister to make way for me-- to wash my hands for the second time and, for the second time, found the single occupancy room empty and spotless. It seemed as if it were merely for show-- toilet tissue wrapped in silk ribbon, unused. Cute, but I wondered if people in polite society ever rid themselves of unneccesary body weight, or if they had people to do that for them. I returned to our table to find my diaper folded neatly on the table. We finished our sixth course -- a Snake River Farm \"Calotte de Boeuf Grillée\"-- with not too much comment. It was excellent. Techinically perfect. Of course it was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet something was not quite right. At least to me. I couldn't quite put my finger on it. The food was uniformly beautiful, flavorful and perfectly executed to the detection of both my eyes and palate. The dishware and silver were often conversation pieces. The rooms were lovely-- well-appointed and understated as though to counterbalance the fact that this building once housed a brothel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the staff? A sudden chill came over me. Or was that the Glacé de Fruits Exotiques set before me after the cheese course?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was, below the smooth, perfect surfaces of the French Laundry, a subtle uneasiness; a tautness under its skin, like that of a woman fresh from a facelift-- eager to please her wealthy lover and unable to relax her facial muscles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I scanned the members of the staff. Everyone was clean, very attractive and well tailored. They all smiled, but not too widely, as though no one should have a better time than the guests. Eye contact was always just narrowly avoided. Or did I imagine that? If our waiter would attempt levity, he would say, \"I am only joking\" before any of us had even the time to react. The fear of offense was fascinating. There was a Stepford-like quality to the members of the front-of-house staff that I found troublesome.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When he spoke at the Commonwealth Club, Thomas Keller stated that \"Cooking is about repetition-- the perfection of the task at hand.\" I would agree with him there. Mr. Keller has perfected his cooking through strict repetition. But that repetition seems to makes its way into the dining room as well, which is unfortunate. When our food was brought to the table, it was described in marvelous detail, but it the delivery of information gave the impression of having been memorized, scripted and completely uniform. No color. Words like gougère and gratinée were mispronounced.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When our bill was presented, we were disappointed but not terribly offended that we had been charged $50 for uncorking the bottle we'd brought and had opened for us. In my experience as a waiter, if a guest brings a bottle of wine yet purchases a bottle from a restaurant's wine list, the corkage fee is waived. But I do not make policy and we were already of the mind to pay it before we even sat down, but it struck a slightly sour note at the end of our evening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Laundry-Bill-707147.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/Laundry-Bill-706377.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we looked over our bill, Jack made a generous offer-- that he would pay for the food if the rest of us took care of the rest. Then the waiter, who happened to be standing between Lyle and Jack, offered that he would be happy to split the check four ways, if we liked. Jack replied that that woulnd't be necessary and that we just needed a minute to figure out the bill. Instead of leaving us alone with our bill, our waiter picked it up from the table. I cannot remember why, but I'm sure there was a logical reason for it. Lyle asked what the total was and, in what I hope was an attempt to be helpful, our waiter then read our bill-- which was, I'm sure quite conservative by French Laundry standards-- out loud.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Food: $1,020... Wine: $166...\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were pleased to know that everyone in the room knew how much we spent. Perhaps our waiter thought that a guest at one of the other tables might avail us of his or her superior math skills. We were, all of us, quietly horrified.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The check was paid. Shortbread cookies and copies of the night's menu were distributed, two round coasters with the restaurant's name on them that reminded me of dress shields were pocketed and we left.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the drive home, we talked about our experience. We all enjoyed it very much. The food was wonderful, but only the little Tokyo turnips and chocolate-covered macadamia nuts were hailed as \"amazing.\" We were well-sated bodily. Just enough food, just enough wine. But none of us saw it as truly fantastic. Not the best meal ever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that is our own damned fault. Or mine, at least. There must be such tremendous pressure to operating a restaurant like The French Laundry. It's an institution. It's a shrine to which so many come expecting the greatest meal of their lives. With food prices of $240 ($270 if one opts for foie gras), one almost demands it. How can one restaurant satisfy all the unspoken expectations of, well, everyone who has ever dined there, or ever will? It can't.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps Mr. Keller is correct in his approach of uniformity and repitition. It seems to be working for him and, I'm sure, the majority of diners there. It is his consistency that has kept his machinery well-oiled and running more or less smoothly since 1994. I just don't think it's for me. Which I can accept as either my own virtue or my own flaw. Whatever the case, it is my own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am, however, extremely glad I had the opportunity to dine there. I applaude Keller's food, his technique and his sense of fun-- at least on the plate. Now if he could just get his waitstaff to loosen up...\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "B Star Bar Attempts Burmese Fusion",
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"content": "\u003cp>Last week, a friend from \u003ca href=\"http://www.tantemarie.com\">cooking class\u003c/a> tipped me off to B Star Bar, the month-old offshoot of \u003ca href=\"http://www.burmasuperstar.com\">Burma Superstar\u003c/a> that's located two blocks away on Clement Street. B Star Bar offers a blend of Burmese, Asian, and Western dishes, and though it doesn't outshine the Mother Ship, it's worth a visit if you can't bear BSS's legendary two-hour wait. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though they don't take reservations for parties smaller than six, when I called they were kind enough to take one anyway for the three of us. A nice touch, I thought, and smart for a new restaurant that's trying to attract customers. There's no sign up yet, but if you look for a swash of yellow paint you'll see the words B Star Bar stenciled on the window. We walked in last Saturday night to find some friends killing time (and taking the edge off their hunger) while they waited for their table at Burma Superstar. \"Order the croquettes!\" they advised.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/2ndinterior-742384.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/2ndinterior-742379.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn't linger in the large, spare front room, but headed straight to the back patio, which is the place to be. Buddha statues and lush green foliage create an exotic, jungle-y feel for the dozen or so tables, and a few glimpses of the night sky peek out from the tent. There are enough heat lamps to keep everybody comfortable in shirtsleeves. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/edamame-767934.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/edamame-767929.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu combines traditional Burmese preparations with Asian and Western classics. Sometimes the dishes are a mix of several traditions, but more often than not each one sticks to its own. We started with spicy edamame ($3.95), a bowl of green pods slick with red chilies and chunks of garlic. They were fiery, and after a few bites my battle-damaged tongue begged for a break. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/croquettes-710462.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/croquettes-710459.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was dismayed when everything we ordered arrived at once, and though the wait staff were attentive, the coursing made it clear both they and the kitchen are inexperienced. The Kabocha croquettes ($5.95) came three panko-dusted orbs to a plate. They're filled with Kabocha squash and seasoned with tomatoes and curry before being deep-fried. They were sweet, as was the addictive sticky sauce that accompanied them. Though the result wasn't quite one-dimensional, I wouldn't have objected to a bit more crunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/tealeafsalad-771559.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/tealeafsalad-771557.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was eagerly anticipating the tealeaf salad ($7.95), a BSS classic. I was disappointed that it wasn't tossed tableside, and it was missing some of the complexity I loved due to the omission of dried shrimp and jalapeños. But the uniquely bitter tang of tealeaves was unmistakable, and we polished off every last bite. A desperate plea to the management: please, please, please, bring back the original.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ordered two kinds of noodles, and my favorite dish of the evening was the kau soi ($8.95)- ramen-like noodles mixed with ground chicken and pickled mustard greens in a coconut curry sauce. The menu calls this bordertown food; I don't know if that refers to Bangladesh, India, China, Laos or Thailand, all of which butt up to Myanmar. It's similar to BSS's nan pia dok, a dish that I once said I would walk through crushed glass to eat, and I would do the same for the kau soi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/duckgarlicnoodles-748997.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/duckgarlicnoodles-748994.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other noodle dish was see jyet ($7.95), thin, long noodles with fried garlic, shredded duck, and cucumbers. It wasn't garlicky enough to wow me, or to surpass its virtuoso cousin, but my dining companions lapped it up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nicoise-723281.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nicoise-723278.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Asian Niçoise salad with grilled cod ($10.95) is one of the few creations that blends culinary traditions. Field greens were topped with lightly blanched asparagus, fanned avocado slices, shiitake mushrooms, hard-boiled egg, and grilled cod and tossed with miso dressing. My favorite part was the pile of handmade sweet potato chips on the side, but I'd probably skip the entire thing next time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shortribs-755004.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shortribs-755002.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Short ribs with Hawaiian-style pineapple fried rice ($9.95) were hit and miss. The rice was built with juicy chunks of grilled pineapple and grains moistened by a slippery fried egg yolk. The kimchee was bracingly hot, but the short ribs were tough and fatty. If they'd upgrade the meat, however, I'd order it again in a heartbeat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We brought our own wine, but they have some decent options by the glass, carafe, and bottle, as well as soju cocktails and the famous Burma cooler, beer spiked with ginger and fresh lemon. After gorging ourselves on noodles, we passed on dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though I applaud the Burma Superstar crew for wanting to spread their wings, by far the most successful dishes were the Burmese-leaning ones. If B Star Bar can tighten up the menu, incorporating intoxicating Burmese touches with better-executed pan-Asian and Western ideas, they could have a good thing going. For now, keep them in mind if you simply can't stomach the wait up the street. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: This write-up is based on one anonymous visit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>B Star Bar\u003cbr>127 Clement St. b/w 2nd & 3rd \u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 933-9900 \u003cbr>Open every day but Wednesday for lunch and dinner\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Last week, a friend from \u003ca href=\"http://www.tantemarie.com\">cooking class\u003c/a> tipped me off to B Star Bar, the month-old offshoot of \u003ca href=\"http://www.burmasuperstar.com\">Burma Superstar\u003c/a> that's located two blocks away on Clement Street. B Star Bar offers a blend of Burmese, Asian, and Western dishes, and though it doesn't outshine the Mother Ship, it's worth a visit if you can't bear BSS's legendary two-hour wait. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though they don't take reservations for parties smaller than six, when I called they were kind enough to take one anyway for the three of us. A nice touch, I thought, and smart for a new restaurant that's trying to attract customers. There's no sign up yet, but if you look for a swash of yellow paint you'll see the words B Star Bar stenciled on the window. We walked in last Saturday night to find some friends killing time (and taking the edge off their hunger) while they waited for their table at Burma Superstar. \"Order the croquettes!\" they advised.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/2ndinterior-742384.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/2ndinterior-742379.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn't linger in the large, spare front room, but headed straight to the back patio, which is the place to be. Buddha statues and lush green foliage create an exotic, jungle-y feel for the dozen or so tables, and a few glimpses of the night sky peek out from the tent. There are enough heat lamps to keep everybody comfortable in shirtsleeves. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/edamame-767934.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/edamame-767929.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu combines traditional Burmese preparations with Asian and Western classics. Sometimes the dishes are a mix of several traditions, but more often than not each one sticks to its own. We started with spicy edamame ($3.95), a bowl of green pods slick with red chilies and chunks of garlic. They were fiery, and after a few bites my battle-damaged tongue begged for a break. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/croquettes-710462.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/croquettes-710459.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was dismayed when everything we ordered arrived at once, and though the wait staff were attentive, the coursing made it clear both they and the kitchen are inexperienced. The Kabocha croquettes ($5.95) came three panko-dusted orbs to a plate. They're filled with Kabocha squash and seasoned with tomatoes and curry before being deep-fried. They were sweet, as was the addictive sticky sauce that accompanied them. Though the result wasn't quite one-dimensional, I wouldn't have objected to a bit more crunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/tealeafsalad-771559.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/tealeafsalad-771557.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was eagerly anticipating the tealeaf salad ($7.95), a BSS classic. I was disappointed that it wasn't tossed tableside, and it was missing some of the complexity I loved due to the omission of dried shrimp and jalapeños. But the uniquely bitter tang of tealeaves was unmistakable, and we polished off every last bite. A desperate plea to the management: please, please, please, bring back the original.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ordered two kinds of noodles, and my favorite dish of the evening was the kau soi ($8.95)- ramen-like noodles mixed with ground chicken and pickled mustard greens in a coconut curry sauce. The menu calls this bordertown food; I don't know if that refers to Bangladesh, India, China, Laos or Thailand, all of which butt up to Myanmar. It's similar to BSS's nan pia dok, a dish that I once said I would walk through crushed glass to eat, and I would do the same for the kau soi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/duckgarlicnoodles-748997.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/duckgarlicnoodles-748994.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other noodle dish was see jyet ($7.95), thin, long noodles with fried garlic, shredded duck, and cucumbers. It wasn't garlicky enough to wow me, or to surpass its virtuoso cousin, but my dining companions lapped it up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nicoise-723281.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nicoise-723278.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Asian Niçoise salad with grilled cod ($10.95) is one of the few creations that blends culinary traditions. Field greens were topped with lightly blanched asparagus, fanned avocado slices, shiitake mushrooms, hard-boiled egg, and grilled cod and tossed with miso dressing. My favorite part was the pile of handmade sweet potato chips on the side, but I'd probably skip the entire thing next time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shortribs-755004.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shortribs-755002.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Short ribs with Hawaiian-style pineapple fried rice ($9.95) were hit and miss. The rice was built with juicy chunks of grilled pineapple and grains moistened by a slippery fried egg yolk. The kimchee was bracingly hot, but the short ribs were tough and fatty. If they'd upgrade the meat, however, I'd order it again in a heartbeat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We brought our own wine, but they have some decent options by the glass, carafe, and bottle, as well as soju cocktails and the famous Burma cooler, beer spiked with ginger and fresh lemon. After gorging ourselves on noodles, we passed on dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though I applaud the Burma Superstar crew for wanting to spread their wings, by far the most successful dishes were the Burmese-leaning ones. If B Star Bar can tighten up the menu, incorporating intoxicating Burmese touches with better-executed pan-Asian and Western ideas, they could have a good thing going. For now, keep them in mind if you simply can't stomach the wait up the street. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: This write-up is based on one anonymous visit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>B Star Bar\u003cbr>127 Clement St. b/w 2nd & 3rd \u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 933-9900 \u003cbr>Open every day but Wednesday for lunch and dinner\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "First Impression: Piqueo's",
"title": "First Impression: Piqueo's",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Note: A write-up of any restaurant that has been open less than a month is considered a \"First Impression.\" Meaning, we want to bring you the latest and greatest from around SF but acknowledge that new spots may have some kinks to work out. We keep that in mind, and you should, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-exterior-780548.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-exterior-780544.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is Peruvian the new \"it\" food? Judging by the slew of articles written about it in the last year, the answer is a resounding si. From the New York Times to \u003ca href=\"http://www.aracari.com/aracariperu/cuisine/images/2006_04_28USAToday_Ceviche.jpg\">USA Today\u003c/a>, from Gourmet to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2006/05/09/AR2006050900337.html\">Washington Post\u003c/a>, it's getting a lot of buzz. Nuevo Latino cooking isn't new to San Francisco; we've been enjoying \u003ca href=\"http://www.frescasf.com\">Fresca\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.limon-sf.com\">Limon\u003c/a> for years. Nevertheless, three weeks after \u003ca href=\"http://www.piqueos.com\">Piqueo's\u003c/a> opened, I found myself winding my way up the pockmarked hills of Bernal Heights to see what the city's newest Peruvian place had to offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-interior-721462.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-interior-721458.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the swarms of hungry locals are any indication, Piqueo's is already a full-blown success. When my friend and I walked in, it was still light outside and the restaurant was only half-full, but for the better part of dinner, I watched the seemingly never-ending crowd on the sidewalk outside replenish itself every time a lucky group sat down. Undoubtedly, one of the secrets to Piqueo's instantaneous popularity is the mere virtue of its existence: this is a part of town with very few chic restaurants. Chef/owner Carlos Altamirano and his wife Shu (who also own \u003ca href=\"http://www.mochicasf.com\">Mochica\u003c/a>) put a lot of care into making the space sophisticated and inviting. Arched doorways divide the restaurant into three rooms, and the many windows keep it feeling light and airy. Vivid photographs of modern-day Peru hang on brick red walls, and a lemon tree blooms on the granite bar in front of the petite open kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/picadillos-798783.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/picadillos-798781.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Piqueo's bills itself as \"contemporary Peruvian cuisine,\" which seems to mean a mix of California-grown ingredients and items flown in from Altamirano's native Peru -- the giant corn that appears in nearly every dish, for instance -- combined in authentic Peruvian preparations. The menu is divided into piqueos (small plates), ceviches, and entrées. Every meal begins with a small bowl of what they call picadillos, a mixture of fried whole garbanzo beans and dried corn kernels showered with flecks of tomato, red onion, cilantro and queso fresco. It was served with a spoon and nothing else, so we ended up eating it with our fingers. If heroin is anything like these zingy niblets, I can see how you might not notice when Social Services takes your kid. Thank God my friend was dieting -- I got to eat most of the bowl myself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ceviche-717095.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ceviche-717091.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since ceviche is a signature Peruvian dish, we started with the ceviche mixto ($14). Like nearly everything we ordered, it was dramatically plated. Two mussels on the half-shell and a tangle of raw red onion sheltered chunks of halibut, squid, and prawns. The lime marinade was brash and spicy thanks to aji limo and rocoto, red Peruvian chilies, and we found ourselves wishing for a spoon to better lap it up. The bright coral prawns were the best part of the dish, and if I went again, I'd simply order the ceviche de camarones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/potato-salad-741219.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/potato-salad-741216.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After one bite, I dismissed the choclo peruano ($9) as too much like the picadillos to be worth ordering separately. But the cold salad of giant Peruvian corn, chunks of queso fresco, tomatoes, red onions, and lemon-oregano dressing eventually won me over. Though its flavors are indeed similar -- it's practically the same dish, except for the fried garbanzos -- it provided a cool and spirited contrast to the warm dishes we ordered. Word to the wise: it's hard to avoid palate fatigue when so many dishes are seasoned with the same spices and flavors, so order carefully.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/brochetts-757201.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/brochetts-757199.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our waitress raved about the anticuchon ($10), skewered sirloin brochettes drizzled with sweet and spicy BBQ-style panca sauce, but we found the meat overcooked and the sauce salty beyond reason. I simply couldn't finish what I put on my plate. It was also one-dimensional, save for the delectable puddle of avocado crema, which might have rescued a properly seasoned rendition from monotony. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/plantains-779067.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/plantains-779063.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other than the picadillos, our favorite dish of the night was a plate of fried plantains in an orange-cinnamon glaze ($7). I'm not much for bananas, but I have adored plantains since I first tried them in an El Salvadoran restaurant with a heap of black beans and tangy sour cream on the side. As our waitress warned us, these are sweet enough to be dessert, so we decided to eat them last. From the caramelized sugars in the sauce to the slightly sour, creamy mash of the platanitos, every bite was bliss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/garlic-shrimp-700562.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/garlic-shrimp-700560.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, we'd forgotten about the garlic shrimp ($10) still coming our way. After dessert, it was hard to go back, and when I woke up with vampire-slaying breath the next morning, I sort of wished I hadn't. Still, the shrimp were nicely cooked and the griddled bread was the perfect sponge for all that garlicky sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our waitress was knowledgeable and friendly, and any small flubs in service -- the lack of changed plates between courses, the traffic jam of dishes sent out too quickly by the kitchen -- should work themselves out as Piqueo's gets through opening month madness. Even if they don't, I'm already craving those picadillos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Piqueo's\u003cbr>830 Cortland Avenue\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 282-8812\u003cbr>Open for dinner 7 nights a week\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": "Note: A write-up of any restaurant that has been open less than a month is considered a "First Impression." Meaning, we want to bring you the latest and greatest from around SF but acknowledge that new spots may have some kinks to work out. We keep that in mind, and you should, too. Is Peruvian",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Note: A write-up of any restaurant that has been open less than a month is considered a \"First Impression.\" Meaning, we want to bring you the latest and greatest from around SF but acknowledge that new spots may have some kinks to work out. We keep that in mind, and you should, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-exterior-780548.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-exterior-780544.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is Peruvian the new \"it\" food? Judging by the slew of articles written about it in the last year, the answer is a resounding si. From the New York Times to \u003ca href=\"http://www.aracari.com/aracariperu/cuisine/images/2006_04_28USAToday_Ceviche.jpg\">USA Today\u003c/a>, from Gourmet to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2006/05/09/AR2006050900337.html\">Washington Post\u003c/a>, it's getting a lot of buzz. Nuevo Latino cooking isn't new to San Francisco; we've been enjoying \u003ca href=\"http://www.frescasf.com\">Fresca\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.limon-sf.com\">Limon\u003c/a> for years. Nevertheless, three weeks after \u003ca href=\"http://www.piqueos.com\">Piqueo's\u003c/a> opened, I found myself winding my way up the pockmarked hills of Bernal Heights to see what the city's newest Peruvian place had to offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-interior-721462.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-interior-721458.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the swarms of hungry locals are any indication, Piqueo's is already a full-blown success. When my friend and I walked in, it was still light outside and the restaurant was only half-full, but for the better part of dinner, I watched the seemingly never-ending crowd on the sidewalk outside replenish itself every time a lucky group sat down. Undoubtedly, one of the secrets to Piqueo's instantaneous popularity is the mere virtue of its existence: this is a part of town with very few chic restaurants. Chef/owner Carlos Altamirano and his wife Shu (who also own \u003ca href=\"http://www.mochicasf.com\">Mochica\u003c/a>) put a lot of care into making the space sophisticated and inviting. Arched doorways divide the restaurant into three rooms, and the many windows keep it feeling light and airy. Vivid photographs of modern-day Peru hang on brick red walls, and a lemon tree blooms on the granite bar in front of the petite open kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/picadillos-798783.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/picadillos-798781.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Piqueo's bills itself as \"contemporary Peruvian cuisine,\" which seems to mean a mix of California-grown ingredients and items flown in from Altamirano's native Peru -- the giant corn that appears in nearly every dish, for instance -- combined in authentic Peruvian preparations. The menu is divided into piqueos (small plates), ceviches, and entrées. Every meal begins with a small bowl of what they call picadillos, a mixture of fried whole garbanzo beans and dried corn kernels showered with flecks of tomato, red onion, cilantro and queso fresco. It was served with a spoon and nothing else, so we ended up eating it with our fingers. If heroin is anything like these zingy niblets, I can see how you might not notice when Social Services takes your kid. Thank God my friend was dieting -- I got to eat most of the bowl myself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ceviche-717095.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ceviche-717091.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since ceviche is a signature Peruvian dish, we started with the ceviche mixto ($14). Like nearly everything we ordered, it was dramatically plated. Two mussels on the half-shell and a tangle of raw red onion sheltered chunks of halibut, squid, and prawns. The lime marinade was brash and spicy thanks to aji limo and rocoto, red Peruvian chilies, and we found ourselves wishing for a spoon to better lap it up. The bright coral prawns were the best part of the dish, and if I went again, I'd simply order the ceviche de camarones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/potato-salad-741219.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/potato-salad-741216.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After one bite, I dismissed the choclo peruano ($9) as too much like the picadillos to be worth ordering separately. But the cold salad of giant Peruvian corn, chunks of queso fresco, tomatoes, red onions, and lemon-oregano dressing eventually won me over. Though its flavors are indeed similar -- it's practically the same dish, except for the fried garbanzos -- it provided a cool and spirited contrast to the warm dishes we ordered. Word to the wise: it's hard to avoid palate fatigue when so many dishes are seasoned with the same spices and flavors, so order carefully.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/brochetts-757201.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/brochetts-757199.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our waitress raved about the anticuchon ($10), skewered sirloin brochettes drizzled with sweet and spicy BBQ-style panca sauce, but we found the meat overcooked and the sauce salty beyond reason. I simply couldn't finish what I put on my plate. It was also one-dimensional, save for the delectable puddle of avocado crema, which might have rescued a properly seasoned rendition from monotony. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/plantains-779067.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/plantains-779063.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other than the picadillos, our favorite dish of the night was a plate of fried plantains in an orange-cinnamon glaze ($7). I'm not much for bananas, but I have adored plantains since I first tried them in an El Salvadoran restaurant with a heap of black beans and tangy sour cream on the side. As our waitress warned us, these are sweet enough to be dessert, so we decided to eat them last. From the caramelized sugars in the sauce to the slightly sour, creamy mash of the platanitos, every bite was bliss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/garlic-shrimp-700562.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/garlic-shrimp-700560.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, we'd forgotten about the garlic shrimp ($10) still coming our way. After dessert, it was hard to go back, and when I woke up with vampire-slaying breath the next morning, I sort of wished I hadn't. Still, the shrimp were nicely cooked and the griddled bread was the perfect sponge for all that garlicky sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our waitress was knowledgeable and friendly, and any small flubs in service -- the lack of changed plates between courses, the traffic jam of dishes sent out too quickly by the kitchen -- should work themselves out as Piqueo's gets through opening month madness. Even if they don't, I'm already craving those picadillos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Piqueo's\u003cbr>830 Cortland Avenue\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 282-8812\u003cbr>Open for dinner 7 nights a week\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Cafe Majestic Lives up to its Name",
"title": "Cafe Majestic Lives up to its Name",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/CM-exterior-788477.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/CM-exterior-788471.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I received an email inviting me to a new restaurant with an unknown chef serving local, seasonal Cal-French cuisine, what did I do? I yawned. Shuffled a few papers. Clicked over to \u003ca href=\"http://perezhilton.com/\">Perez Hilton\u003c/a> to read about Britney's rumored lipo. That kind of menu is a dime a dozen in this town. But then I said yes anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After having eaten at \u003ca href=\"http://www.thehotelmajestic.com/restaurant.html\">Café Majestic\u003c/a>, all I can say is yum, yum, yum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Full disclosure: my meal was comped. These days, there's a lot of debate in (\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/03/25/MNGV9ORDSH1.DTL\">and out of\u003c/a>) the blogosphere about the ethics of reviewing restaurants. Big publications can afford for their critics to eat out anonymously multiple times. Small publications can't, and when I go to dinner, even if it's for work, I usually pay my own way. When a new restaurant opens, they often invite media guests to enjoy dinner on them. There is no obligation to write a single word about their restaurant, and I often don't, nor do I sugarcoat my opinions. Two rules of the road when I write about a media dinner: I will always tell you it was free, and I will never comment on the service. It's impossible to judge if my treatment will be a fair representation of the average. Now let's continue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Café Majestic resides in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thehotelmajestic.com/\">Hotel Majestic\u003c/a>, a century-old building in Pac Heights with furnishings that evoke a bygone era and a cozy bar downstairs that boasts a collection of rare butterflies (pinned to boards, not fluttering around). The restaurant was closed for four years, and after a million dollar renovation, the new owners reopened it six months ago, and brought on chef Ian Begg in January.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as I entered the dining room, I was happy. Am I the only one who's sick of exposed red brick walls, communal tables, and concrete floors? Café Majestic is elegant but not fussy. Cream walls are hung with pen and ink sketches and subtle gold accents trace the fabric of plush banquettes. Look closely and you'll notice white porcelain dogs everywhere -- flanking the left side of the restaurant or on a decorative table -- and it becomes clear the owners are the kind of people who would tongue kiss their prized Corgis. Dressy attire is appropriate here, and again I say hallelujah! There are only so many more times I can force on my thong-baring, ankle-hugging jeans before I snap and cut them to shreds with nail scissors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The meal began with a Brobdingnagian amuse bouche: asparagus gazpacho with a \"caviar\" of day boat scallops, cucumbers, Meyer lemon and Fresno chili. It was too lemony, and I didn't really want to finish it, which led to a debate with my boyfriend about size. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says: bigger is better.\u003cbr>She says: good things come in small packages. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our first course was a dozen Marin Miyagis ($36) with lime mignonette. The substitution of lime for the classic champagne or white wine vinegar was magical and refreshing, and it brightened up the sauce without overpowering the oysters' delicate, briny flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arugula, Fuji apples, blue cheese, and a walnut vinaigrette ($9) sounds dull, I know; after all, you can find some version of this fruit/cheese/nut salad almost \u003ca href=\"http://www.wendys.com/food/Family.jsp?family=3\">anywhere\u003c/a>. But I was in the mood for a light start to the evening, and the salad was beautifully balanced and dressed with restraint. The Fuji slivers were so thin, they were translucent. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were so tempted by the sautéed potato gnocchi, cipollini onions, white truffle oil, roasted garlic cream, asparagus ($17) that we begged for a half-portion just to taste. What might have been a gut-busting dairy bomb in less skilled hands was light as a feather. (Maybe two feathers.) The gnocchi were fluffy and the delicate cream sauce was infused with deep, sweet notes of roasted garlic and onion. Though \u003ca href=\"http://www.tablehopper.com\">one food writer\u003c/a> I know calls truffle oil \"cheap thrills,\" this dish proves there is a time and a place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also illustrates both the flairs and the flaws of the Café Majestic kitchen: Begg is a young and talented chef, but he plays it safe too often. Dishes like grilled Hawaiian ono, pea shoots, green garlic, sea urchin cream, chili oil ($28) prove that he doesn't have to. I loved the uni's subtle sea-kissed sweetness, and there was just enough chili oil to keep the lusciousness in check. Pea shoots, a food I generally avoid, added just the right crunch and bitterness, and I gobbled every last one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grilled \u003ca href=\"http://www.mountainrivervenison.co.nz/page.php?page_id=story\">Mountain River Farms\u003c/a> venison loin ($28) is decidedly un-local -- it comes from New Zealand -- but my boyfriend declared it the best he's ever eaten. Its raspberry-pink flesh was tender and free of the gaminess venison is often cursed with. Bitter endive and blood orange marmalade gave a one-two punch, and a snowfall of pine nuts added creaminess. The fiddlehead ferns coiled on top were a welcome reminder of spring in an otherwise wintry dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was disappointed with dessert. The Medjool date tarte ($8) was simply too sweet. A flat pastry disc was topped with a thick layer of pureed dates and star anise ice cream, then drizzled with Marshall Farms honey. I loved the Middle Eastern nod, but the dish needed something tangy to save it from itself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>General manager and wine director Ryan Maxey chose flattering wine matches for the food -- a 2006 Condes de Albarei Albarino Rias Baixas for the ono, a 2004 Santa Barbara Vineyards Syrah from Santa Ynez Valley for the venison. More than his wine pairings, though, we loved his enthusiasm and southern hospitality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a grown-up ambiance and captivating cooking, Café Majestic has a lot to offer. If chef Begg would give freer reign to his more inspired touches, it could just become one of San Francisco's most exciting new restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Café Majestic\u003cbr>1500 Sutter Street\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 441-1280\u003cbr>Open 7 days a week for breakfast and dinner\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/CM-exterior-788477.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/CM-exterior-788471.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I received an email inviting me to a new restaurant with an unknown chef serving local, seasonal Cal-French cuisine, what did I do? I yawned. Shuffled a few papers. Clicked over to \u003ca href=\"http://perezhilton.com/\">Perez Hilton\u003c/a> to read about Britney's rumored lipo. That kind of menu is a dime a dozen in this town. But then I said yes anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After having eaten at \u003ca href=\"http://www.thehotelmajestic.com/restaurant.html\">Café Majestic\u003c/a>, all I can say is yum, yum, yum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Full disclosure: my meal was comped. These days, there's a lot of debate in (\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/03/25/MNGV9ORDSH1.DTL\">and out of\u003c/a>) the blogosphere about the ethics of reviewing restaurants. Big publications can afford for their critics to eat out anonymously multiple times. Small publications can't, and when I go to dinner, even if it's for work, I usually pay my own way. When a new restaurant opens, they often invite media guests to enjoy dinner on them. There is no obligation to write a single word about their restaurant, and I often don't, nor do I sugarcoat my opinions. Two rules of the road when I write about a media dinner: I will always tell you it was free, and I will never comment on the service. It's impossible to judge if my treatment will be a fair representation of the average. Now let's continue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Café Majestic resides in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thehotelmajestic.com/\">Hotel Majestic\u003c/a>, a century-old building in Pac Heights with furnishings that evoke a bygone era and a cozy bar downstairs that boasts a collection of rare butterflies (pinned to boards, not fluttering around). The restaurant was closed for four years, and after a million dollar renovation, the new owners reopened it six months ago, and brought on chef Ian Begg in January.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as I entered the dining room, I was happy. Am I the only one who's sick of exposed red brick walls, communal tables, and concrete floors? Café Majestic is elegant but not fussy. Cream walls are hung with pen and ink sketches and subtle gold accents trace the fabric of plush banquettes. Look closely and you'll notice white porcelain dogs everywhere -- flanking the left side of the restaurant or on a decorative table -- and it becomes clear the owners are the kind of people who would tongue kiss their prized Corgis. Dressy attire is appropriate here, and again I say hallelujah! There are only so many more times I can force on my thong-baring, ankle-hugging jeans before I snap and cut them to shreds with nail scissors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The meal began with a Brobdingnagian amuse bouche: asparagus gazpacho with a \"caviar\" of day boat scallops, cucumbers, Meyer lemon and Fresno chili. It was too lemony, and I didn't really want to finish it, which led to a debate with my boyfriend about size. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says: bigger is better.\u003cbr>She says: good things come in small packages. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our first course was a dozen Marin Miyagis ($36) with lime mignonette. The substitution of lime for the classic champagne or white wine vinegar was magical and refreshing, and it brightened up the sauce without overpowering the oysters' delicate, briny flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arugula, Fuji apples, blue cheese, and a walnut vinaigrette ($9) sounds dull, I know; after all, you can find some version of this fruit/cheese/nut salad almost \u003ca href=\"http://www.wendys.com/food/Family.jsp?family=3\">anywhere\u003c/a>. But I was in the mood for a light start to the evening, and the salad was beautifully balanced and dressed with restraint. The Fuji slivers were so thin, they were translucent. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were so tempted by the sautéed potato gnocchi, cipollini onions, white truffle oil, roasted garlic cream, asparagus ($17) that we begged for a half-portion just to taste. What might have been a gut-busting dairy bomb in less skilled hands was light as a feather. (Maybe two feathers.) The gnocchi were fluffy and the delicate cream sauce was infused with deep, sweet notes of roasted garlic and onion. Though \u003ca href=\"http://www.tablehopper.com\">one food writer\u003c/a> I know calls truffle oil \"cheap thrills,\" this dish proves there is a time and a place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also illustrates both the flairs and the flaws of the Café Majestic kitchen: Begg is a young and talented chef, but he plays it safe too often. Dishes like grilled Hawaiian ono, pea shoots, green garlic, sea urchin cream, chili oil ($28) prove that he doesn't have to. I loved the uni's subtle sea-kissed sweetness, and there was just enough chili oil to keep the lusciousness in check. Pea shoots, a food I generally avoid, added just the right crunch and bitterness, and I gobbled every last one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grilled \u003ca href=\"http://www.mountainrivervenison.co.nz/page.php?page_id=story\">Mountain River Farms\u003c/a> venison loin ($28) is decidedly un-local -- it comes from New Zealand -- but my boyfriend declared it the best he's ever eaten. Its raspberry-pink flesh was tender and free of the gaminess venison is often cursed with. Bitter endive and blood orange marmalade gave a one-two punch, and a snowfall of pine nuts added creaminess. The fiddlehead ferns coiled on top were a welcome reminder of spring in an otherwise wintry dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was disappointed with dessert. The Medjool date tarte ($8) was simply too sweet. A flat pastry disc was topped with a thick layer of pureed dates and star anise ice cream, then drizzled with Marshall Farms honey. I loved the Middle Eastern nod, but the dish needed something tangy to save it from itself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>General manager and wine director Ryan Maxey chose flattering wine matches for the food -- a 2006 Condes de Albarei Albarino Rias Baixas for the ono, a 2004 Santa Barbara Vineyards Syrah from Santa Ynez Valley for the venison. More than his wine pairings, though, we loved his enthusiasm and southern hospitality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a grown-up ambiance and captivating cooking, Café Majestic has a lot to offer. If chef Begg would give freer reign to his more inspired touches, it could just become one of San Francisco's most exciting new restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Café Majestic\u003cbr>1500 Sutter Street\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 441-1280\u003cbr>Open 7 days a week for breakfast and dinner\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Presidio Social Club: Hostess with the Mostest",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/PSC_exterior-784809.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/PSC_exterior-784807.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.\" Virginia Woolf\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe. But sometimes it's more important to have fun. When it is, \u003ca href=\"http://www.presidiosocialclub.com/\">Presidio Social Club\u003c/a> is the place to go. It offers revamped American classics, most of which don't merit more than a shrug, but the atmosphere makes it a winner anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the outside, PSC -- its self-assigned urban moniker -- looks like the old clapboard barracks that it is. An old-fashioned mailbox from \u003ca href=\"http://www.visitmayberry.com\">Mayberry\u003c/a> days hangs on the porch, and just inside the doorway stands a drum set painted Technicolor red. The entire place is a nostalgia-lover's fantasy of the giddy pre-war years when woman wore their hair in elaborate pin curls, men said things like, \"Aw, shucks,\" and Big Band was king. Ceiling fans resembling airplane propellers whir slowly overhead, mimicking lazy, sweat-soaked summer days, and potted palms sweep the floor with wide green leaves. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I walked into this carefree atmosphere a few weeks ago, roughly four months after opening. The crowd was only partially anachronistic, with just as many white-haired ladies and gents \"dressed for dinner\" as young LucasArts employees in flats and skinny jeans swarming the marble-topped bar. Even the communal table, reserved for walk-ins, was full. The hostess escorted my friend and me to a roomy two-top in the side room, and it was a great table -- close enough to ride the buzz of the main room without having to endure its noise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pink_lemonade-762834.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pink_lemonade-762831.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One look at the cocktail list got my feet tapping. I was tempted by the French 75 ($9) with cognac, champagne and lemon juice, as well as the Pisco Punch ($8) with Pisco (a South American brandy), pineapple, and bitters, but settled on the lip-smacking Presidio Pink Lemonade ($8). Vodka infused with \u003ca href=\"http://ssil.uoregon.edu/hum399/gallery/week7/Buddha's_Hand_fruit.jpg\">Buddha's hand\u003c/a>, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0099487/\">Edward Scissorhands\u003c/a> of the citrus world, was blended with limoncello, simple syrup, and a splash of Campari. It was sweet-tart, just like the ghost of a girl I saw flirting with the dashing officer in my mind's eye.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shrimp_cocktail-786419.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shrimp_cocktail-786417.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the \"hors d'oeuvres\" section of the menu -- the name another quaint touch -- we ordered PSC Seafood Cocktail with shrimp ($7.95). I grew up in the South and in our family, shrimp cocktail was considered terribly posh. My grandmother even had special dishes for the occasion. I loved PSC's presentation -- a pile of oyster crackers and fork-speared limes on the side -- but what was described as \"Mission taqueria-style\" tomato juice with chilies was really a barely seasoned swimming pool for baby shrimp. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/grilled_cheese-705014.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/grilled_cheese-705012.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gruyere cheese toast ($8.50) was a grilled cheese sandwich, plain and simple. The bread was so buttery, it overpowered the Gruyere's nutty flavor. The fondue tomato dip livened things up, even if that combination can be found on roughly 99% of San Francisco menus right now. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/caesar-735884.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/caesar-735879.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The PSCaesar ($9.50) looked like a Caesar salad but the creamy dressing tasted more like Ranch. It didn't make it any less good, just a bit of false advertising.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pasta-760914.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pasta-760907.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up was the \"Broadway & Columbus\" ($13.95), an homage to two of the City's most iconic neighborhoods, Chinatown and North Beach. Unfortunately, it looked and tasted like a poor attempt at using up leftovers. Wide egg noodles in a bowl of orange zest-dotted broth were topped with chunks of fatty duck. The pasta was okay on its own in a soothing, I'm-not-feeling-well kind of way, but one bite of bland, greasy duck was plenty. The dish simply never came together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now ask me if I care? The drinks were tasty, the fun-loving atmosphere infectious and the prices hard to beat. By this time I was enjoying an Alamos 2005 Malbec ($6) by the glass. When our waiter recommended it, I admitted I was wary of ordering the cheapest wine on the menu. (Am I the only one?) He convinced me to order it anyway, and I loved it for its raspberry flavors layered with spice and long, velvety finish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/cupcakes-728063.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/cupcakes-728060.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All I can say is that PSC saved the best for last. Like \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/04/pres-vi-black-sheep-of-family.jsp\">Pres a Vi\u003c/a>, they've hopped on the dessert tasting bandwagon -- a trend I'd like to see more of -- with four full-sized desserts ($7), four dessert \"sides\" ($5), and a mix-and-match approach with one of each ($10). We shared three chocolate cupcakes whose barely cooked insides were a dead giveaway for their inspiration -- molten chocolate cake -- but you can't go wrong with something that's fresh from the oven. The top looked like decorative beads on a cut glass serving dish and added a wonderful crunch, while the shot glass of hand-whipped cream was a cool foil. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Service was a mix. Our waiter had the wink and swagger of a good ole boy, and I had to wonder if he was flirting or stealing nips from the bar since we rarely saw him, but the food runner and busboys were both on top of their game. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At meal's end, the critic in me may have shrugged, but the rest of me had fallen in love.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Presidio Social Club\u003cbr>Building 563 Ruger Street in the Presidio\u003cbr>San Francisco \u003cbr>(415) 885-1888\u003cbr>Open Monday - Saturday for dinner\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": ""One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well." Virginia Woolf Maybe. But sometimes it's more important to have fun. When it is, Presidio Social Club is the place to go. It offers revamped American classics, most of which don't merit more than a shrug, but the atmosphere makes it",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/PSC_exterior-784809.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/PSC_exterior-784807.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.\" Virginia Woolf\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe. But sometimes it's more important to have fun. When it is, \u003ca href=\"http://www.presidiosocialclub.com/\">Presidio Social Club\u003c/a> is the place to go. It offers revamped American classics, most of which don't merit more than a shrug, but the atmosphere makes it a winner anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the outside, PSC -- its self-assigned urban moniker -- looks like the old clapboard barracks that it is. An old-fashioned mailbox from \u003ca href=\"http://www.visitmayberry.com\">Mayberry\u003c/a> days hangs on the porch, and just inside the doorway stands a drum set painted Technicolor red. The entire place is a nostalgia-lover's fantasy of the giddy pre-war years when woman wore their hair in elaborate pin curls, men said things like, \"Aw, shucks,\" and Big Band was king. Ceiling fans resembling airplane propellers whir slowly overhead, mimicking lazy, sweat-soaked summer days, and potted palms sweep the floor with wide green leaves. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I walked into this carefree atmosphere a few weeks ago, roughly four months after opening. The crowd was only partially anachronistic, with just as many white-haired ladies and gents \"dressed for dinner\" as young LucasArts employees in flats and skinny jeans swarming the marble-topped bar. Even the communal table, reserved for walk-ins, was full. The hostess escorted my friend and me to a roomy two-top in the side room, and it was a great table -- close enough to ride the buzz of the main room without having to endure its noise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pink_lemonade-762834.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pink_lemonade-762831.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One look at the cocktail list got my feet tapping. I was tempted by the French 75 ($9) with cognac, champagne and lemon juice, as well as the Pisco Punch ($8) with Pisco (a South American brandy), pineapple, and bitters, but settled on the lip-smacking Presidio Pink Lemonade ($8). Vodka infused with \u003ca href=\"http://ssil.uoregon.edu/hum399/gallery/week7/Buddha's_Hand_fruit.jpg\">Buddha's hand\u003c/a>, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0099487/\">Edward Scissorhands\u003c/a> of the citrus world, was blended with limoncello, simple syrup, and a splash of Campari. It was sweet-tart, just like the ghost of a girl I saw flirting with the dashing officer in my mind's eye.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shrimp_cocktail-786419.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shrimp_cocktail-786417.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the \"hors d'oeuvres\" section of the menu -- the name another quaint touch -- we ordered PSC Seafood Cocktail with shrimp ($7.95). I grew up in the South and in our family, shrimp cocktail was considered terribly posh. My grandmother even had special dishes for the occasion. I loved PSC's presentation -- a pile of oyster crackers and fork-speared limes on the side -- but what was described as \"Mission taqueria-style\" tomato juice with chilies was really a barely seasoned swimming pool for baby shrimp. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/grilled_cheese-705014.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/grilled_cheese-705012.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gruyere cheese toast ($8.50) was a grilled cheese sandwich, plain and simple. The bread was so buttery, it overpowered the Gruyere's nutty flavor. The fondue tomato dip livened things up, even if that combination can be found on roughly 99% of San Francisco menus right now. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/caesar-735884.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/caesar-735879.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The PSCaesar ($9.50) looked like a Caesar salad but the creamy dressing tasted more like Ranch. It didn't make it any less good, just a bit of false advertising.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pasta-760914.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pasta-760907.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up was the \"Broadway & Columbus\" ($13.95), an homage to two of the City's most iconic neighborhoods, Chinatown and North Beach. Unfortunately, it looked and tasted like a poor attempt at using up leftovers. Wide egg noodles in a bowl of orange zest-dotted broth were topped with chunks of fatty duck. The pasta was okay on its own in a soothing, I'm-not-feeling-well kind of way, but one bite of bland, greasy duck was plenty. The dish simply never came together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now ask me if I care? The drinks were tasty, the fun-loving atmosphere infectious and the prices hard to beat. By this time I was enjoying an Alamos 2005 Malbec ($6) by the glass. When our waiter recommended it, I admitted I was wary of ordering the cheapest wine on the menu. (Am I the only one?) He convinced me to order it anyway, and I loved it for its raspberry flavors layered with spice and long, velvety finish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/cupcakes-728063.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/cupcakes-728060.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All I can say is that PSC saved the best for last. Like \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/04/pres-vi-black-sheep-of-family.jsp\">Pres a Vi\u003c/a>, they've hopped on the dessert tasting bandwagon -- a trend I'd like to see more of -- with four full-sized desserts ($7), four dessert \"sides\" ($5), and a mix-and-match approach with one of each ($10). We shared three chocolate cupcakes whose barely cooked insides were a dead giveaway for their inspiration -- molten chocolate cake -- but you can't go wrong with something that's fresh from the oven. The top looked like decorative beads on a cut glass serving dish and added a wonderful crunch, while the shot glass of hand-whipped cream was a cool foil. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Service was a mix. Our waiter had the wink and swagger of a good ole boy, and I had to wonder if he was flirting or stealing nips from the bar since we rarely saw him, but the food runner and busboys were both on top of their game. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At meal's end, the critic in me may have shrugged, but the rest of me had fallen in love.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Presidio Social Club\u003cbr>Building 563 Ruger Street in the Presidio\u003cbr>San Francisco \u003cbr>(415) 885-1888\u003cbr>Open Monday - Saturday for dinner\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/checkplease\">\u003cstrong>Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> is KQED's local series featuring regular people reviewing Bay Area restaurants. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Check, Please Bay Area\u003c/strong> was nominated for two \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamesbeard.org/awards/2007/nominees.pdf\">\u003cstrong>2007 James Beard Awards\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (pdf) in the Television Food Show Category!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Visit the \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=262\">\u003cstrong>Check, Please! Bay Area blog\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> to experience the restaurants from Season 2 Episode 15:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1) \u003cstrong>The Grubstake\u003c/strong>: | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=266\">restaurant information\u003c/a> | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=263\">reviews\u003c/a> | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=269\">recipe\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2) \u003cstrong>Charanga\u003c/strong>: | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=267\">restaurant information\u003c/a> | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=264\">reviews\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3) \u003cstrong>Viognier\u003c/strong>: | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=268\">restaurant information\u003c/a> | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=265\">reviews\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Please feel free to join the discussion by posting comments about the show and your reviews of the featured restaurants!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/checkplease\">\u003cstrong>watch all episodes online\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> as well as \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?page_id=122\">\u003cstrong>subscribe to the Check, Please! video podcast\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in iTunes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> This season, \u003ca href=\"http://www.blogger.com/profile/6341495\">\u003cstrong>Stephanie V.W. Lucianovic\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> will be blogging about what happens behind-the-scenes during the making of Check, Please! Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can also view the Check, Please! Bay Area \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/bayareabites/\">\u003cstrong>photo gallery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> to view behind-the-scenes shots at many of the featured restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2) \u003cstrong>Charanga\u003c/strong>: | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=267\">restaurant information\u003c/a> | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=264\">reviews\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3) \u003cstrong>Viognier\u003c/strong>: | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=268\">restaurant information\u003c/a> | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=265\">reviews\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Please feel free to join the discussion by posting comments about the show and your reviews of the featured restaurants!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/checkplease\">\u003cstrong>watch all episodes online\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> as well as \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?page_id=122\">\u003cstrong>subscribe to the Check, Please! video podcast\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in iTunes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> This season, \u003ca href=\"http://www.blogger.com/profile/6341495\">\u003cstrong>Stephanie V.W. Lucianovic\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> will be blogging about what happens behind-the-scenes during the making of Check, Please! Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can also view the Check, Please! Bay Area \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/bayareabites/\">\u003cstrong>photo gallery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> to view behind-the-scenes shots at many of the featured restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Pres a Vi: The Black Sheep of the Family",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/presavi_sign-786122.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/presavi_sign-786119.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A small bit of research reveals that \u003ca href=\"http://www.presavi.com\">Pres a Vi\u003c/a>, one of the new restaurants in the reinvigorated Presidio, has its roots in the suburbs. (\u003ca href=\"http://vadevi.com/\">Va de Vi\u003c/a>, its older sibling, is located in Walnut Creek.) Unfortunately, a small bit of dinner will tell you the same thing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I made my way to Pres a Vi on a rainy night about 4 months after it opened. Perhaps because of the weather, I noticed how hard it was to find. It's hidden amongst a handful of cookie cutter office buildings, and if you're approaching by car -- as I assume most dinner-only visitors to the Presidio are -- signs are few and far between. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/interior-746062.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/interior-746058.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I finally arrived, it was to a room full of warm, red-hued woods and fabrics that evoked a sophisticated, cozy cabin. The place was bustling with birthday parties, a young bar crowd, and several tables of baby boomers having dinner, but it wasn't loud. Though the room is quite pretty, it's also fairly common by San Francisco standards. Long bar populated with pretty-somethings? Check. Open kitchen? Check. Ubiquitous communal table? Check. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My friend was late to meet me, and the host treated us with some pretty fierce attitude when we checked in nearly 15 minutes late. I can empathize with the frustration of late arrivals, but to be fair, I had checked in earlier to let him know I was waiting for my friend to park. He was rude then, too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we sat down, we didn't have a wine list -- a pet peeve of mine -- so I caught the eye of the nearest waiter. His reply when I asked for one was gruff and annoyed. Okaaaaay. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When he returned, he explained, \"There's a certain way we have to present the wine list.\" He then proceeded to run through the list of flights, which come in tastes of three and can also be ordered by the glass or by the bottle. \"And if those aren't enough, there are 400 more in here,\" he finished, handing over the wine book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The owners of Pres a Vi are clearly proud of their wine program. The name of the restaurant, in fact, loosely translates to \"captivated by wine\" in Catalan. It's encouraging to see so many offerings by the glass (48 plus 2 for dessert) and the bottle list hits on most of the world's major wine regions, so it's understandable that they'd want to brag a bit. But come on: the first thing most people want to do after a hard day's work is order a drink and relax. Forcing your customers to beg for the wine list is shortsighted and inconsiderate. If it needs presenting, so be it, but have the hostess do it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Service was amateur throughout the meal. There were long waits for drinks when the food was already served, a food runner who handled our request for more wine by fumbling over how he wasn't authorized to take our order (well, go get someone who is!), and a plate of pork belly that was inexplicably served before both seafood courses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/hamachi-768097.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/hamachi-768094.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On to the food. There were some lovely tastes from Chef Kelly Degala's small plates menu, which hop scotches all over the world. Like the restaurant, the plating was gorgeous, and the long rectangular dishes showed off our first two courses beautifully. We started with hamachi teradito ($14), slices of sashimi topped with micro arugula, anju pepper aioli, and blood orange oil. Citrus and spice were about all I could taste. Together, they were a flavor bomb that brazenly overpowered the hamachi (which may not have been a bad thing, since I detected a bit of fishiness from it here and there). The wild mushroom-ricotta ravioli ($10) were better. The sauce was wonderful -- a silky, subtle sherry brown butter with a hint of lemon -- but the fried shallots were soggy from the sauce, and the fried sage leaf was greasy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ravioli-787033.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ravioli-787030.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/porkbelly-705933.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/porkbelly-705931.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best thing about the Singaporean BBQ style kurobuta pork belly ($10) was the interplay between the tart and crunchy green papaya salad and the sweet honey-soy glaze of the pork. But the meat itself was chewy in a way that unctuous belly shouldn't be. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shrimp-728194.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shrimp-728191.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pork was followed by grilled prawns satay ($10) with a Thai red curry sauce and soy-maple glazed black cod ($15). Both were fine, but not good enough to erase the disappointment of the preceding dishes. Throughout the meal, I kept wishing we had spoons to take better advantage of the sauces that accompanied nearly every plate, since they're one thing the kitchen does exceedingly well. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/blackcod-751906.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/blackcod-751903.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dessert, we opted to share the cookie plate ($15) from the tasting part of the menu. I love the concept of dessert tastings, smaller portions of several things meant to be shared. It gives you the opportunity to indulge your sweet tooth without ending up like Kirstie Alley, and to sample more things from the menu. Unfortunately, the cookies were lackluster. The chocolate chip lacked enough chocolate oomph as did the chocolate meringues, and the coconut macaroons were greasy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/cookies-772603.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/cookies-772592.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both of us walked out of the restaurant deflated. I have heard good things about Va de Vi over the years, and it's made the \u003ca href=\"http://sfgate.com/food/top100/2007/\">Chronicle's Top 100 Restaurants list\u003c/a> the last three, but it's clear from my visit that Pres a Vi is not living up to the family name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pres a Vi\u003cbr>1 Letterman Drive\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 409-3000\u003cbr>Open 7 days a week\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/presavi_sign-786122.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/presavi_sign-786119.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A small bit of research reveals that \u003ca href=\"http://www.presavi.com\">Pres a Vi\u003c/a>, one of the new restaurants in the reinvigorated Presidio, has its roots in the suburbs. (\u003ca href=\"http://vadevi.com/\">Va de Vi\u003c/a>, its older sibling, is located in Walnut Creek.) Unfortunately, a small bit of dinner will tell you the same thing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I made my way to Pres a Vi on a rainy night about 4 months after it opened. Perhaps because of the weather, I noticed how hard it was to find. It's hidden amongst a handful of cookie cutter office buildings, and if you're approaching by car -- as I assume most dinner-only visitors to the Presidio are -- signs are few and far between. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/interior-746062.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/interior-746058.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I finally arrived, it was to a room full of warm, red-hued woods and fabrics that evoked a sophisticated, cozy cabin. The place was bustling with birthday parties, a young bar crowd, and several tables of baby boomers having dinner, but it wasn't loud. Though the room is quite pretty, it's also fairly common by San Francisco standards. Long bar populated with pretty-somethings? Check. Open kitchen? Check. Ubiquitous communal table? Check. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My friend was late to meet me, and the host treated us with some pretty fierce attitude when we checked in nearly 15 minutes late. I can empathize with the frustration of late arrivals, but to be fair, I had checked in earlier to let him know I was waiting for my friend to park. He was rude then, too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we sat down, we didn't have a wine list -- a pet peeve of mine -- so I caught the eye of the nearest waiter. His reply when I asked for one was gruff and annoyed. Okaaaaay. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When he returned, he explained, \"There's a certain way we have to present the wine list.\" He then proceeded to run through the list of flights, which come in tastes of three and can also be ordered by the glass or by the bottle. \"And if those aren't enough, there are 400 more in here,\" he finished, handing over the wine book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The owners of Pres a Vi are clearly proud of their wine program. The name of the restaurant, in fact, loosely translates to \"captivated by wine\" in Catalan. It's encouraging to see so many offerings by the glass (48 plus 2 for dessert) and the bottle list hits on most of the world's major wine regions, so it's understandable that they'd want to brag a bit. But come on: the first thing most people want to do after a hard day's work is order a drink and relax. Forcing your customers to beg for the wine list is shortsighted and inconsiderate. If it needs presenting, so be it, but have the hostess do it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Service was amateur throughout the meal. There were long waits for drinks when the food was already served, a food runner who handled our request for more wine by fumbling over how he wasn't authorized to take our order (well, go get someone who is!), and a plate of pork belly that was inexplicably served before both seafood courses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/hamachi-768097.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/hamachi-768094.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On to the food. There were some lovely tastes from Chef Kelly Degala's small plates menu, which hop scotches all over the world. Like the restaurant, the plating was gorgeous, and the long rectangular dishes showed off our first two courses beautifully. We started with hamachi teradito ($14), slices of sashimi topped with micro arugula, anju pepper aioli, and blood orange oil. Citrus and spice were about all I could taste. Together, they were a flavor bomb that brazenly overpowered the hamachi (which may not have been a bad thing, since I detected a bit of fishiness from it here and there). The wild mushroom-ricotta ravioli ($10) were better. The sauce was wonderful -- a silky, subtle sherry brown butter with a hint of lemon -- but the fried shallots were soggy from the sauce, and the fried sage leaf was greasy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ravioli-787033.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ravioli-787030.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/porkbelly-705933.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/porkbelly-705931.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best thing about the Singaporean BBQ style kurobuta pork belly ($10) was the interplay between the tart and crunchy green papaya salad and the sweet honey-soy glaze of the pork. But the meat itself was chewy in a way that unctuous belly shouldn't be. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shrimp-728194.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shrimp-728191.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pork was followed by grilled prawns satay ($10) with a Thai red curry sauce and soy-maple glazed black cod ($15). Both were fine, but not good enough to erase the disappointment of the preceding dishes. Throughout the meal, I kept wishing we had spoons to take better advantage of the sauces that accompanied nearly every plate, since they're one thing the kitchen does exceedingly well. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/blackcod-751906.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/blackcod-751903.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dessert, we opted to share the cookie plate ($15) from the tasting part of the menu. I love the concept of dessert tastings, smaller portions of several things meant to be shared. It gives you the opportunity to indulge your sweet tooth without ending up like Kirstie Alley, and to sample more things from the menu. Unfortunately, the cookies were lackluster. The chocolate chip lacked enough chocolate oomph as did the chocolate meringues, and the coconut macaroons were greasy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/cookies-772603.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/cookies-772592.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both of us walked out of the restaurant deflated. I have heard good things about Va de Vi over the years, and it's made the \u003ca href=\"http://sfgate.com/food/top100/2007/\">Chronicle's Top 100 Restaurants list\u003c/a> the last three, but it's clear from my visit that Pres a Vi is not living up to the family name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pres a Vi\u003cbr>1 Letterman Drive\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 409-3000\u003cbr>Open 7 days a week\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/checkplease\">\u003cstrong>Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> is KQED's local series featuring regular people reviewing Bay Area restaurants. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Check, Please Bay Area\u003c/strong> was nominated for two \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamesbeard.org/awards/2007/nominees.pdf\">\u003cstrong>2007 James Beard Awards\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (pdf) in the Television Food Show Category!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Visit the \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=254\">\u003cstrong>Check, Please! Bay Area blog\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> to experience the restaurants from Season 2 Episode 14:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1) \u003cstrong>Buckeye Roadhouse\u003c/strong>: | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=258\">restaurant information\u003c/a> | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=255\">reviews\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2) \u003cstrong>Canto do Brasil\u003c/strong>: | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=259\">restaurant information\u003c/a> | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=256\">reviews\u003c/a> | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=261\">recipe\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3) \u003cstrong>Udupi Palace\u003c/strong>: | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=260\">restaurant information\u003c/a> | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=257\">reviews\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Please feel free to join the discussion by posting comments about the show and your reviews of the featured restaurants!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/checkplease\">\u003cstrong>watch all episodes online\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> as well as \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?page_id=122\">\u003cstrong>subscribe to the Check, Please! video podcast\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in iTunes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> This season, \u003ca href=\"http://www.blogger.com/profile/6341495\">\u003cstrong>Stephanie V.W. Lucianovic\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> will be blogging about what happens behind-the-scenes during the making of Check, Please! Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can also view the Check, Please! Bay Area \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/bayareabites/\">\u003cstrong>photo gallery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> to view behind-the-scenes shots at many of the featured restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/checkplease\">\u003cstrong>Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> is KQED's local series featuring regular people reviewing Bay Area restaurants. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Check, Please Bay Area\u003c/strong> was nominated for two \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamesbeard.org/awards/2007/nominees.pdf\">\u003cstrong>2007 James Beard Awards\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (pdf) in the Television Food Show Category!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Visit the \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=254\">\u003cstrong>Check, Please! Bay Area blog\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> to experience the restaurants from Season 2 Episode 14:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1) \u003cstrong>Buckeye Roadhouse\u003c/strong>: | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=258\">restaurant information\u003c/a> | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=255\">reviews\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2) \u003cstrong>Canto do Brasil\u003c/strong>: | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=259\">restaurant information\u003c/a> | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=256\">reviews\u003c/a> | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=261\">recipe\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3) \u003cstrong>Udupi Palace\u003c/strong>: | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=260\">restaurant information\u003c/a> | \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?p=257\">reviews\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Please feel free to join the discussion by posting comments about the show and your reviews of the featured restaurants!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/checkplease\">\u003cstrong>watch all episodes online\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> as well as \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/?page_id=122\">\u003cstrong>subscribe to the Check, Please! video podcast\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in iTunes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> This season, \u003ca href=\"http://www.blogger.com/profile/6341495\">\u003cstrong>Stephanie V.W. Lucianovic\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> will be blogging about what happens behind-the-scenes during the making of Check, Please! Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can also view the Check, Please! Bay Area \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/bayareabites/\">\u003cstrong>photo gallery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> to view behind-the-scenes shots at many of the featured restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "TWO: Second Time's a Charm",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/sign-735028.jpg\">\u003cimg alt=\"\" src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/sign-735021.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've always thought reincarnation is an interesting concept. You live, you die, and you return smarter and thinner and full of snappy comebacks that are always ready right when you need them. (Or something like that; check with the \u003ca href=\"http://hinduwebsite.com/reincarnation.asp\">Hindus\u003c/a> for a more complete explanation.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, restaurants are as eager for a second chance as anyone. In mid-January, David Gingrass and Bridget Batson, the owner-and-chef duo behind Hawthorne Lane, reopened their staid SOMA restaurant as \u003ca href=\"http://www.two-sf.com\">TWO\u003c/a>. The décor and the New American menu have both been revamped, and they're a lot more casual and more fun than they used to be. If Hawthorne Lane was a graying matron who insisted upon using china and crystal at lunch, TWO is a swinging single with a penchant for slamming tequila body shots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The décor is part Tiki lounge, part Brady Bunch. Coconut lights hang above a massive copper and concrete bar, walls are paneled in wood, and banquettes are covered in a groovy olive and tan fabric. Mustard yellow tables come with psychedelic orange peppershakers, and the ladies' bathroom is papered in giant retro red and silver blossoms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time I went for dinner, my boyfriend and I sat at a table. The second time we took friends and perched at the bar, where service was better. Per Restaurantland's New World Order, the cocktail list features housemade infusions like lemon blueberry tequila. I chose the Royal Hound ($12), a drink Anna Nicole Smith would have liked. It was pink from muddled ruby grapefruit awash in vodka, Cointreau and a splash of bubbly, and a candied grapefruit rim sparkled like diamonds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/drink-756640.jpg\">\u003cimg alt=\"\" src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/drink-756629.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eighteen wines are offered by the glass, including two reds served \"en vrac\" (in bulk). These wines are stored in barrels that have been lined so the wine doesn't pick up unwanted flavors or aromas. Prices are a few bucks cheaper than the other options, and the Syrah/Petite Syrah/Cabernet blend was a very drinkable mixture of fruit and spice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Servers insist the food is made for sharing, and some of it is, but there's too much cutting and reapportioning needed to split most plates. Chilled asparagus on sourdough crostini with ricotta and prosciutto ($9.50) is a case in point. A veritable jungle of greens sprouted from the gigantic toast, and cutting it in half was annoyingly messy. Though I liked the touch of lemon and the al dente asparagus spears, eating it made me feel like a cow with wild clover hanging out of my mouth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/oysters-782488.jpg\">\u003cimg alt=\"\" src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/oysters-782472.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two that are easy to split are the crispy-fried Hama Hama oysters ($11), which arrived nestled in a bed of rock salt. The oysters were plump and hot, the dough was light (if a touch thick), and the celery root remoulade was a delightfully bright take on tartar sauce. Pizzas ($13/$14) were a runaway favorite on both visits. The crust was thin but pleasantly chewy, and both versions we tried (black olive, goat cheese, and prosciutto; duck confit, caramelized onions, and Crescenza cheese) offered an appetizing blend of toppings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pizza-707391.jpg\">\u003cimg alt=\"\" src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/pizza-707385.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best dish bar none was the bacon and egg raviolo with sage brown butter ($9). One oversized ravioli was filled with bacon, spinach, and an egg yolk, which was softly poached during cooking, resulting in a rich, gooey slick that spilled out when cut open. Truth be told, I wouldn't have minded more bacon for my buck, but it was still glorious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pork schnitzel ($18), however, was an unmitigated flop. It was greasy and so large that it looked oafish and clumsy on the plate, and the braised escarole underneath was too salty to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/broccoli-727891.jpg\">\u003cimg alt=\"\" src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/broccoli-727877.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both veggie sides we tried were a hit. Caramelized broccoli with garlic, chili and lemon ($5) was admirably charred with well-balanced flavors. Despite suffering from a dreadfully unappetizing name, the stewed broccoli rabe ($5) tasted deliciously bitter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/cupcakes-747544.jpg\">\u003cimg alt=\"\" src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/cupcakes-747537.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Desserts were playful. Chocolate peanut butter and double chocolate mousse cupcakes ($7.50), the latter styled to resemble a Hostess creation, outperformed the mini ice cream sandwiches ($7.50) like Gwen Stefani and this year's crop of American idols. The crumb was moist and rich, and the icing hovered on the restrained side of sweet. We actually licked the wrappers clean, I am mortified to report.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before we left we asked the bartender what the old crowd thought of the new place. \"They came in once or twice when we reopened,\" he said, \"but most of them haven't been back.\" You can't please all the people all the time, I guess, so you might as well suit yourself. Maybe that's a lesson Gingrass and Batson learned the first time around.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>TWO\u003cbr>22 Hawthorne Street\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 777-9779\u003cbr>Open for lunch & dinner 7 days a week\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/sign-735028.jpg\">\u003cimg alt=\"\" src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/sign-735021.jpg\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've always thought reincarnation is an interesting concept. You live, you die, and you return smarter and thinner and full of snappy comebacks that are always ready right when you need them. (Or something like that; check with the \u003ca href=\"http://hinduwebsite.com/reincarnation.asp\">Hindus\u003c/a> for a more complete explanation.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, restaurants are as eager for a second chance as anyone. In mid-January, David Gingrass and Bridget Batson, the owner-and-chef duo behind Hawthorne Lane, reopened their staid SOMA restaurant as \u003ca href=\"http://www.two-sf.com\">TWO\u003c/a>. The décor and the New American menu have both been revamped, and they're a lot more casual and more fun than they used to be. If Hawthorne Lane was a graying matron who insisted upon using china and crystal at lunch, TWO is a swinging single with a penchant for slamming tequila body shots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The décor is part Tiki lounge, part Brady Bunch. Coconut lights hang above a massive copper and concrete bar, walls are paneled in wood, and banquettes are covered in a groovy olive and tan fabric. Mustard yellow tables come with psychedelic orange peppershakers, and the ladies' bathroom is papered in giant retro red and silver blossoms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time I went for dinner, my boyfriend and I sat at a table. The second time we took friends and perched at the bar, where service was better. Per Restaurantland's New World Order, the cocktail list features housemade infusions like lemon blueberry tequila. I chose the Royal Hound ($12), a drink Anna Nicole Smith would have liked. It was pink from muddled ruby grapefruit awash in vodka, Cointreau and a splash of bubbly, and a candied grapefruit rim sparkled like diamonds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"id": "fresh-air",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"marketplace": {
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
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"masters-of-scale": {
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"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
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"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
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"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
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"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"order": 11
},
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"on-the-media": {
"id": "on-the-media",
"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"link": "/radio/program/on-the-media",
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},
"pbs-newshour": {
"id": "pbs-newshour",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/pbs-newshour",
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"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/",
"rss": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/feeds/rss/podcasts/show"
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},
"perspectives": {
"id": "perspectives",
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"order": 14
},
"link": "/perspectives",
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"planet-money": {
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"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
"airtime": "SUN 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/planetmoney.jpg",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/planet-money",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/planet-money/id290783428?mt=2",
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},
"politicalbreakdown": {
"id": "politicalbreakdown",
"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Political-Breakdown-2024-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 5
},
"link": "/podcasts/politicalbreakdown",
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"amazon": "https://music.amazon.com/podcasts/e0c2d153-ad36-4c8d-901d-f1da6a724824/political-breakdown",
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.possible.fm/",
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"source": "Possible"
},
"link": "/radio/program/possible",
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