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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/testers500.jpg\" alt=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales directs the nightly testing of dishes prior to service at the restaurant.\" title=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales directs the nightly testing of dishes prior to service at the restaurant.\" width=\"500\" height=\"371\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6361\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oliveto Chef Paul Canales directs the nightly \"testing\" of dishes prior to service at the restaurant. Photo by Carl Costas, Sacramento Bee\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Hollywood actors, some chefs will claim that they don't pay attention to the critics. The reality, of course, is that they do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A good review, in a prominent publication or media outlet, can help launch an upstart restaurant or attract new customers to an old one. A bad one can sink the newcomer or spell trouble for a venerated establishment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oliveto, the Italian restaurant in Oakland where I've been interning since April, has enjoyed its share of published praise. In her latest edition of the \"Food Lover's Pocket Guide\" to San Francisco and the Bay Area, \u003ca href=\"http://www.hayesstreetgrill.com/hsg-bio.html\">food critic Patricia Unterman\u003c/a> writes that Oliveto \"sets the standard for Italian cooking in America.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last month, the restaurant staff was buoyed by a glowing endorsement by Marcella Hazan, an author of several award winning Italian cookbooks. \u003ca href=\"http://www.thedailybeast.com/blogs-and-stories/2009-07-28/fresh-picks-5/3/\">Writing in The Daily Beast, Hazan said\u003c/a> she \"would eat at Oliveto in Oakland every day\" if she lived in the Bay Area. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet those appraisals were quickly overshadowed last week when Michael Bauer, the food critic for the San Francisco Chronicle, published his \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/08/20/DDLD193F3K.DTL&type=food\">first major review of the restaurant since 1996\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a nine-paragraph column, Bauer said that his last two visits to the restaurant were disappointing. He criticized the service, the atmosphere and the food, and knocked the restaurant down from 3 1/2 stars to two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It could be that others have caught up and that Oliveto has slipped,\" wrote Bauer, noting the restaurant's legacy in inspiring other chefs and restaurants across the region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I arrived at Oliveto on Friday, the day after the review appeared, I expected the kitchen to be buzzing about the review. Instead, it seemed just like a normal day -- busy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant's annual tomato dinners were less than a week away, and so chefs and cooks were scurrying about, making preparations for those elaborate suppers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet as the morning wore on, it became clear that the review was the 800-pound gorilla in the room. Nobody wanted to touch it, but it was pretty hard to ignore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/eric-glass500.jpg\" alt=\"Server Eric Schwier puts a shine on one of the workmanlike wine glasses at Oliveto.\" title=\"Server Eric Schwier puts a shine on one of the workmanlike wine glasses at Oliveto.\" width=\"500\" height=\"343\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6360\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Server Eric Schwier puts a shine on one of the \"workmanlike\" wine glasses at Oliveto. Photo by Carl Costas, Sacramento Bee\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One server volunteered that customers were asking about it in the cafe on the morning it appeared. Another made a joke about the \"workmanlike glasses\" he was handling, a reference to one of the swipes in Bauer's review.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Chef Paul Canales arrived in the kitchen, he seemed to be as chipper as normal. But then he spent some time with a business manager looking over past reservation lists. Both were trying to determine which night Bauer might have dined (based on the menu items he ordered) and who was cooking on various stations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think I might have been cooking pasta that night,\" said Canales. \"It might have been me!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To be sure, it wasn't a complete surprise that the Chronicle was preparing a negative review. Bauer was a huge fan of former Oliveto Chef Paul Bertolli, who trained Canales and helped establish the restaurant's reputation. In 1996, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/1996/01/19/DD35715.DTL\">Bauer gave Oliveto four stars for food and 3 1/2 stars overall\u003c/a>, claiming that Bertolli was \"producing the best Italian food in the Bay Area.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2005, however, Bertolli left Oliveto in a fallout with the owners and Canales was promoted to executive chef. As the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2005/09/28/FDGFEES3F41.DTL\">Chronicle reported that year\u003c/a>, Canales had actually been acting chef for some time, as Bertolli grew more interested in starting his own salumi business. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The trouble signs started in January. After eating cheap food in Texas and Oklahoma, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/mbauer/detail?blogid=26&entry_id=34194\">Bauer filed a blog post questioning if Oliveto was overpriced\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few months later, he dropped Oliveto from his \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/top100/\">Top 100 Bay Area Restaurants list\u003c/a>, a choice that \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2009/04/the_chronicles_2009_top_100_wh.php\">baffled at least one other food writer\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In his current review, Bauer clearly was disappointed with the restaurant's appearance and service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you look around the room, you see the workmanlike glasses on the tables, worn and scarred chairs, and a service staff that on my visits seemed too small for the number of seats. The waiters are good but couldn't cover the room; we waited 15 minutes for wine and practically that long before anyone had enough time to check to see if we wanted dessert.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also had little good to say about the food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The treviso radicchio salad with lonza (cured pork tenderloin) was \"sodden.\" The meatballs on one of the pastas were \"mushy,\" as were the sand dabs on another plate, he wrote.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/rabbitpancetta500.jpg\" alt=\"A tepid plate of pancetta-wrapped rabbit cost Oliveto some stars from food critic Michael Bauer.\" title=\"A tepid plate of pancetta-wrapped rabbit cost Oliveto some stars from food critic Michael Bauer.\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6362\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A \"lukewarm\" plate of pancetta-wrapped rabbit cost Oliveto some stars from food critic Michael Bauer. Photo by Carl Costas, Sacramento Bee\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The pancetta-wrapped rabbit was lukewarm, and the braised butter lettuce underneath was cool in some spots and warm in others, arranged on the plate with a loose, red, juicy sauce. The spit-roasted pork loin ($28) is redolent of the farm and the fire, but the sour cherry and black currant compote stripped it of its natural flavor and the firm, freshly milled polenta and salty greens were a disserve to the succulent meat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I can't argue with Bauer about the service and atmospherics. Oliveto's servers are terrifically knowledgeable about food, but sometimes they are so undermanned they must scramble to get plates out to the dining room. That's one reason the restaurant's carpets are frayed, one detail that escaped Bauer's eye.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also don't doubt that Bauer was served some disappointing dishes on his last visit. I just question if those miscues were representative of what other customers experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the last five months, I've heard from dozens of readers, friends and acquaintances who've eaten at Oliveto. All have raved about the food and the service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any review of Oliveto needs to at least acknowledge the restaurant's innovations, such as its special dinners and use of old-world techniques. After years of eating in the Bay Area, I have yet to find a restaurant that offers Oliveto's variety of handmade pastas. If anything, Canales has improved the restaurant's pasta by working to procure the finest flours and eggs with the richest yolks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's also curious the bulk of Bauer's critique was based on a single visit to Oliveto, and that only one other guest accompanied him. At most big-city newspapers, restaurant reviewers invite at least two or three other people to join them, so they can sample the widest array of dishes. By not doing so, Bauer didn't give his readers a full sense of the Oliveto menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among some at the restaurant, there's a suspicion that Bauer has a personal bias against Oliveto, and thus didn't invest much energy in reviewing it. \"Ever since Bertolli left, he's had it in for us,\" said one of the cooks. \"There is no way we can win.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet that sentiment is hardly universal. When I brought it up, one long-time server, Molly Surbridge, said it would be a mistake for the chefs and staff to get defensive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some of his criticisms are valid,\" she said. \"Instead of focusing on him, we should use his critique to figure out how to make this a better restaurant, not for him, but for us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I found Molly's comment to be wise beyond her years. It's a reflection of why Oliveto is a special place to work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The owners, chefs and servers take a lot of pride in what they do, but not to the point of avoiding introspection. Bauer's review, while off the mark in many ways, will undoubtedly spur Oliveto to engage in some healthy reflection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, if you run a restaurant, you constantly have to ask yourself: How can I make it better?\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Like Hollywood actors, some chefs will claim that they don't pay attention to the critics. The reality, of course, is that they do.\r\n\r\nA good review, in a prominent publication or media outlet, can help launch an upstart restaurant or attract new customers to an old one. A bad one can sink the newcomer or spell trouble for a venerated establishment.\r\n\r\n",
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"title": "Bauer slams Oliveto: A body blow? Or a misdirected punch? | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/testers500.jpg\" alt=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales directs the nightly testing of dishes prior to service at the restaurant.\" title=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales directs the nightly testing of dishes prior to service at the restaurant.\" width=\"500\" height=\"371\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6361\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oliveto Chef Paul Canales directs the nightly \"testing\" of dishes prior to service at the restaurant. Photo by Carl Costas, Sacramento Bee\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Hollywood actors, some chefs will claim that they don't pay attention to the critics. The reality, of course, is that they do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A good review, in a prominent publication or media outlet, can help launch an upstart restaurant or attract new customers to an old one. A bad one can sink the newcomer or spell trouble for a venerated establishment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oliveto, the Italian restaurant in Oakland where I've been interning since April, has enjoyed its share of published praise. In her latest edition of the \"Food Lover's Pocket Guide\" to San Francisco and the Bay Area, \u003ca href=\"http://www.hayesstreetgrill.com/hsg-bio.html\">food critic Patricia Unterman\u003c/a> writes that Oliveto \"sets the standard for Italian cooking in America.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last month, the restaurant staff was buoyed by a glowing endorsement by Marcella Hazan, an author of several award winning Italian cookbooks. \u003ca href=\"http://www.thedailybeast.com/blogs-and-stories/2009-07-28/fresh-picks-5/3/\">Writing in The Daily Beast, Hazan said\u003c/a> she \"would eat at Oliveto in Oakland every day\" if she lived in the Bay Area. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet those appraisals were quickly overshadowed last week when Michael Bauer, the food critic for the San Francisco Chronicle, published his \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/08/20/DDLD193F3K.DTL&type=food\">first major review of the restaurant since 1996\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a nine-paragraph column, Bauer said that his last two visits to the restaurant were disappointing. He criticized the service, the atmosphere and the food, and knocked the restaurant down from 3 1/2 stars to two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It could be that others have caught up and that Oliveto has slipped,\" wrote Bauer, noting the restaurant's legacy in inspiring other chefs and restaurants across the region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I arrived at Oliveto on Friday, the day after the review appeared, I expected the kitchen to be buzzing about the review. Instead, it seemed just like a normal day -- busy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant's annual tomato dinners were less than a week away, and so chefs and cooks were scurrying about, making preparations for those elaborate suppers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet as the morning wore on, it became clear that the review was the 800-pound gorilla in the room. Nobody wanted to touch it, but it was pretty hard to ignore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/eric-glass500.jpg\" alt=\"Server Eric Schwier puts a shine on one of the workmanlike wine glasses at Oliveto.\" title=\"Server Eric Schwier puts a shine on one of the workmanlike wine glasses at Oliveto.\" width=\"500\" height=\"343\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6360\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Server Eric Schwier puts a shine on one of the \"workmanlike\" wine glasses at Oliveto. Photo by Carl Costas, Sacramento Bee\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One server volunteered that customers were asking about it in the cafe on the morning it appeared. Another made a joke about the \"workmanlike glasses\" he was handling, a reference to one of the swipes in Bauer's review.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Chef Paul Canales arrived in the kitchen, he seemed to be as chipper as normal. But then he spent some time with a business manager looking over past reservation lists. Both were trying to determine which night Bauer might have dined (based on the menu items he ordered) and who was cooking on various stations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think I might have been cooking pasta that night,\" said Canales. \"It might have been me!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To be sure, it wasn't a complete surprise that the Chronicle was preparing a negative review. Bauer was a huge fan of former Oliveto Chef Paul Bertolli, who trained Canales and helped establish the restaurant's reputation. In 1996, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/1996/01/19/DD35715.DTL\">Bauer gave Oliveto four stars for food and 3 1/2 stars overall\u003c/a>, claiming that Bertolli was \"producing the best Italian food in the Bay Area.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2005, however, Bertolli left Oliveto in a fallout with the owners and Canales was promoted to executive chef. As the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2005/09/28/FDGFEES3F41.DTL\">Chronicle reported that year\u003c/a>, Canales had actually been acting chef for some time, as Bertolli grew more interested in starting his own salumi business. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The trouble signs started in January. After eating cheap food in Texas and Oklahoma, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/mbauer/detail?blogid=26&entry_id=34194\">Bauer filed a blog post questioning if Oliveto was overpriced\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few months later, he dropped Oliveto from his \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/top100/\">Top 100 Bay Area Restaurants list\u003c/a>, a choice that \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2009/04/the_chronicles_2009_top_100_wh.php\">baffled at least one other food writer\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In his current review, Bauer clearly was disappointed with the restaurant's appearance and service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you look around the room, you see the workmanlike glasses on the tables, worn and scarred chairs, and a service staff that on my visits seemed too small for the number of seats. The waiters are good but couldn't cover the room; we waited 15 minutes for wine and practically that long before anyone had enough time to check to see if we wanted dessert.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also had little good to say about the food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The treviso radicchio salad with lonza (cured pork tenderloin) was \"sodden.\" The meatballs on one of the pastas were \"mushy,\" as were the sand dabs on another plate, he wrote.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/rabbitpancetta500.jpg\" alt=\"A tepid plate of pancetta-wrapped rabbit cost Oliveto some stars from food critic Michael Bauer.\" title=\"A tepid plate of pancetta-wrapped rabbit cost Oliveto some stars from food critic Michael Bauer.\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6362\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A \"lukewarm\" plate of pancetta-wrapped rabbit cost Oliveto some stars from food critic Michael Bauer. Photo by Carl Costas, Sacramento Bee\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The pancetta-wrapped rabbit was lukewarm, and the braised butter lettuce underneath was cool in some spots and warm in others, arranged on the plate with a loose, red, juicy sauce. The spit-roasted pork loin ($28) is redolent of the farm and the fire, but the sour cherry and black currant compote stripped it of its natural flavor and the firm, freshly milled polenta and salty greens were a disserve to the succulent meat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I can't argue with Bauer about the service and atmospherics. Oliveto's servers are terrifically knowledgeable about food, but sometimes they are so undermanned they must scramble to get plates out to the dining room. That's one reason the restaurant's carpets are frayed, one detail that escaped Bauer's eye.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also don't doubt that Bauer was served some disappointing dishes on his last visit. I just question if those miscues were representative of what other customers experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the last five months, I've heard from dozens of readers, friends and acquaintances who've eaten at Oliveto. All have raved about the food and the service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any review of Oliveto needs to at least acknowledge the restaurant's innovations, such as its special dinners and use of old-world techniques. After years of eating in the Bay Area, I have yet to find a restaurant that offers Oliveto's variety of handmade pastas. If anything, Canales has improved the restaurant's pasta by working to procure the finest flours and eggs with the richest yolks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's also curious the bulk of Bauer's critique was based on a single visit to Oliveto, and that only one other guest accompanied him. At most big-city newspapers, restaurant reviewers invite at least two or three other people to join them, so they can sample the widest array of dishes. By not doing so, Bauer didn't give his readers a full sense of the Oliveto menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among some at the restaurant, there's a suspicion that Bauer has a personal bias against Oliveto, and thus didn't invest much energy in reviewing it. \"Ever since Bertolli left, he's had it in for us,\" said one of the cooks. \"There is no way we can win.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet that sentiment is hardly universal. When I brought it up, one long-time server, Molly Surbridge, said it would be a mistake for the chefs and staff to get defensive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some of his criticisms are valid,\" she said. \"Instead of focusing on him, we should use his critique to figure out how to make this a better restaurant, not for him, but for us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I found Molly's comment to be wise beyond her years. It's a reflection of why Oliveto is a special place to work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The owners, chefs and servers take a lot of pride in what they do, but not to the point of avoiding introspection. Bauer's review, while off the mark in many ways, will undoubtedly spur Oliveto to engage in some healthy reflection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, if you run a restaurant, you constantly have to ask yourself: How can I make it better?\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Julie & Julia: Movie Food, Obsession, & Boeuf Blog-uignon",
"title": "Julie & Julia: Movie Food, Obsession, & Boeuf Blog-uignon",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/juliachild1.jpg\" alt=\"Meryl Streep as Julia Child in Julie and Julia\" title=\"Meryl Streep as Julia Child in Julie and Julia\" width=\"490\" height=\"625\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6047\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Avec poultry\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For every exuberantly stylish and special \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MPiQcIxjZTA\">\"Tampopo,\"\u003c/a> a few dozen \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-5RJTf0-Jk\">\"No Reservations\"\u003c/a> sail into theaters to sully the food flick sub-genre: bland, safe, commercial fare smothering run-of-the-mill romance in warmed-over foodie platitudes. The tradition is troublesome, by nature, a challenge. Food engages many senses; apart from the best singularly dedicated cooking shows, the characteristics of a great meal aren't easily palpable to a viewer deprived of taste -- especially when the meal unfolds within the context of a scene in a larger narrative. Food might look okay on-screen, but it rarely comes off as particularly delicious, even in decent movies. Actors can munch on some food stylist's pretty concoction, roll their eyes, and moan embarrassingly with hammy delight, but, so frequently, even the most sumptuous footage -- hyper-real and luscious -- falls flat beneath the weight of woefully unnatural theatrics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the newish \u003ca href=\"http://www.sonypictures.com/movies/juliejulia/\">\"Julie & Julia,\"\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0001188/\">Nora Ephron\u003c/a> supposedly \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/29/dining/29movie.html\">insisted\u003c/a> that the food both look and taste right. In this movie, the food being cooked and eaten was clearly conceived as a character, something alive and provocative, ripe for interaction: the actors must enjoy what they're spooning up, so their enthusiastic oohs and ahhs ring truer with audiences. The whole thing theoretically hinges on faith in the food's ability to convincingly express itself, which is interesting, considering the film, at its core, isn't so much about food at all. Or at least that's how I saw it at the Kabuki on Saturday afternoon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In \"Julie & Julia,\" two stories, separated by continents and over half a century, congeal in parallel narratives: In 1949, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">Julia Child\u003c/a> discovers fine food in Paris and ventures towards the brink of a soon-to-be mighty culinary career; in 2002, \u003ca href=\"http://juliepowell.blogspot.com/\">Julie Powell\u003c/a>, a younger woman, exiled to Queens, directionless and dissatisfied, parlays a therapeutic tear through Child's ultra-famous \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0375413405/kqedorg-20\">\"Mastering the Art of French Cooking\"\u003c/a> into a \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.salon.com/0001399/\">popular blog\u003c/a>, and ventures towards the brink of writerly success in the form of a \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/031604427X/kqedorg-20\">book deal\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the beginning, Meryl Streep's guffawing party-gal of a gastronomic icon just wants something to do. She likes many things, including hats, but food is the latest fancy, her greatest since arriving in Paris with her husband Paul. Encountering a sprinkling of sexism and a healthy dose of anti-American resistance, Julia studies at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cordonbleu.edu/\">Le Cordon Bleu\u003c/a>, begins teaching classes, and starts work on what will become her seminal tome. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julie is about to turn 30. She's not a selfless person, but she works a selfless job, answering phones in a cubicle for the Lower Manhattan Development Corporation post-9/11. Like bleak shades of \u003ca href=\"http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2007/09_03/SATCfilmingXP_468x460.jpg\">Charlotte, Miranda, and Samantha\u003c/a>, her crummy friends from college torment her over tedious Cobb salad lunches, bragging about the money they make and the professional coups they score, pausing only to scream into cell phones at beleaguered assistants. A failed novelist, Julie also wants something to do, something more, something bigger for herself to give her purpose, an important project to complete -- because, in her mind, she's never been much good at that, the finishing of things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film doesn't sufficiently sell Julie's decision to blog about cooking her way through Child's celebrated book. That on-screen moment is weak, her impetus glossed over like ripples in a cake's frosting. Once Julie gets going, her resolve blossoms into a slightly creepy, worshipful obsession. Julia becomes her imaginary friend, a beacon guiding her through recipe after recipe, challenge after challenge, building and shaping her confidence. I start to become concerned when she dresses up like Child for her 30th birthday party, standing smartly before the gathered company, practically saluting, looking a little like a girl scout pretending to be a totalitarian dictator. She's mean to her husband, a sweet, easy-going guy with little cinematic heft. In a nod to gender roles, he kills lobsters when her hand falters, and willingly suffers through indigestion and his wife's marked disinterest in sex. Again and again, he tries to understand as she flies off the handle, frenzied and emotional, whenever a recipe goes wrong, when she's too whacked on gimlets to hear the timer, or, most memorably, when a stuffed chicken slides awkwardly off the kitchen counter and plummets to the floor in a heap of translucent muck, bone, and splattered forcemeat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/juliachild2.jpg\" alt=\"Amy Adams as Julie Powell in Julie and Julia\" title=\"Amy Adams as Julie Powell in Julie and Julia\" width=\"432\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6048\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Slightly creepy, right?\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This movie is about women's lives in transition, journeys unfolding across unfamiliar terrain. Even though food is not overly sensualized here, tastes only rarely poured over and described rapturously and richly, it's a movie dependent on the power of food, not just to galvanize our appetites and inspire the actors, but to spur on the characters they inhabit, to drive the narrative. In Julie's case, her love of food merely flickers in comparison with her pressing compulsion to broil, stew, and steam her way through the book, for the sake of the blog. When Julia cooks, she's on a journey in a purer sense, without a fixed deadline, only fretting over the fruits of her labor once they've slid into view. Cooking is passion for her, as wild and satisfying as sex, to which she doesn't hesitate to draw parallels. \"These damn things are as hot as a stiff cock,\" she bursts out giddily in Streep's best Child-ese, as she juggles a piping hot cannelloni. At both discoveries, her joy bubbles over in ribald exaltation, whereas Julie, while acknowledging Child's chronicled passion, both in the kitchen and with Paul, the \"butter to [her] bread\", is too busy counting down the chapters to approach her journey with a similarly holistic vigor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn't love the movie, but it was wonderful to see Child rendered so Child-like by a great actress, especially pre-fame, many decades away from becoming the quirky, charming old lady I grew up watching spar with \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kj-oNv6IZ-w\">Jacques Pepin\u003c/a> every Saturday morning. By comparison, the Julie sequences sink like leaden quenelles. They simply prove a point: in this story, or gathering of stories, recipes are vessels. Over the course of the film, three different characters -- Julie, Julia, and Judith Jones, Child's first publisher -- make \u003ca href=\"http://www.recipezaar.com/Boeuf-Bourguignon-a-La-Julia-Child-148007\">boeuf bourguignon\u003c/a>. The same recipe comes to life in different kitchens, under different circumstances. Everyone who cooks it owns a memory of it; each individual effort passing through the recipe as if it were a conduit of experience. As many millions of cookbook owners can attest, Julia Child, or more accurately, what she represents, is a moveable feast. \"I have conversations with her when I cook,\" says Julie, and she's right. Following a recipe is like having a conversation with convention across time and, maybe, depending on how crazy you are, the person who devised it. Like aspics, recipes can be shaky propositions; they're not infallible. For a variety of reasons, they don't always work the way they're supposed to; they require the flexibility, improvisation, and intuition only continued evolution through personal experience can provide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julie despairs when, on the precipice of major media triumph, she finds out the real Julia, not the clucking, whisk-brandishing fairy toque-mother of her fantasies, thinks less than highly of her blog. I'm not surprised; the idea of blogging alone probably couldn't bridge that multi-generational gap, though Child's purported sentiment has been \u003ca href=\"http://thefastertimes.com/foodtrends/2009/08/11/hey-julie-powell-haters-methinks-you-protest-too-much/\">echoed\u003c/a>, unjustly or not, by many of Julie's blogger contemporaries. In the movie, Julie describes blogging as \"yelling into the void.\" She goes from wondering if anyone is reading at all to worrying about what to write because so many people are reading. \"Julie & Julia\" is the first movie I've seen with a built-in blogging debate: are people who share their personal lives online inherently narcissistic and self-indulgent? Are they disingenuous? Are they presumptuous, like some stuffy twit way back in the pre-Internet era, dutifully keeping a diary with the idea it'll later be pored over by fascinated contributors to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nybooks.com/\">New York Review of Books\u003c/a>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What if Julia Child had fallen for Chinese food when she lived there just a few years before moving to Paris? Would American housewives have had to come to terms with \"Mastering the Art of Mandarin Cooking,\" \"Handling Hunan,\" or \"Szechuan From Scratch\"? Might Julie be a directionless, dissatisfied San Franciscan, sequestered in the far reaches of the Richmond District, dashing down Clement Street in search of exotic ingredients, pondering Child's secrets to a sublime \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xiaolongbao\">Shanghai soup dumpling\u003c/a>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's another blog for another day.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The film doesn't sufficiently sell Julie's decision to blog about cooking her way through Child's celebrated book. That on-screen moment is weak, her impetus glossed over like ripples in a cake's frosting. Once Julie gets going, her resolve blossoms into a slightly creepy, worshipful obsession. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/juliachild1.jpg\" alt=\"Meryl Streep as Julia Child in Julie and Julia\" title=\"Meryl Streep as Julia Child in Julie and Julia\" width=\"490\" height=\"625\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6047\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Avec poultry\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For every exuberantly stylish and special \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MPiQcIxjZTA\">\"Tampopo,\"\u003c/a> a few dozen \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-5RJTf0-Jk\">\"No Reservations\"\u003c/a> sail into theaters to sully the food flick sub-genre: bland, safe, commercial fare smothering run-of-the-mill romance in warmed-over foodie platitudes. The tradition is troublesome, by nature, a challenge. Food engages many senses; apart from the best singularly dedicated cooking shows, the characteristics of a great meal aren't easily palpable to a viewer deprived of taste -- especially when the meal unfolds within the context of a scene in a larger narrative. Food might look okay on-screen, but it rarely comes off as particularly delicious, even in decent movies. Actors can munch on some food stylist's pretty concoction, roll their eyes, and moan embarrassingly with hammy delight, but, so frequently, even the most sumptuous footage -- hyper-real and luscious -- falls flat beneath the weight of woefully unnatural theatrics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the newish \u003ca href=\"http://www.sonypictures.com/movies/juliejulia/\">\"Julie & Julia,\"\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0001188/\">Nora Ephron\u003c/a> supposedly \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/29/dining/29movie.html\">insisted\u003c/a> that the food both look and taste right. In this movie, the food being cooked and eaten was clearly conceived as a character, something alive and provocative, ripe for interaction: the actors must enjoy what they're spooning up, so their enthusiastic oohs and ahhs ring truer with audiences. The whole thing theoretically hinges on faith in the food's ability to convincingly express itself, which is interesting, considering the film, at its core, isn't so much about food at all. Or at least that's how I saw it at the Kabuki on Saturday afternoon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In \"Julie & Julia,\" two stories, separated by continents and over half a century, congeal in parallel narratives: In 1949, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">Julia Child\u003c/a> discovers fine food in Paris and ventures towards the brink of a soon-to-be mighty culinary career; in 2002, \u003ca href=\"http://juliepowell.blogspot.com/\">Julie Powell\u003c/a>, a younger woman, exiled to Queens, directionless and dissatisfied, parlays a therapeutic tear through Child's ultra-famous \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0375413405/kqedorg-20\">\"Mastering the Art of French Cooking\"\u003c/a> into a \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.salon.com/0001399/\">popular blog\u003c/a>, and ventures towards the brink of writerly success in the form of a \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/031604427X/kqedorg-20\">book deal\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the beginning, Meryl Streep's guffawing party-gal of a gastronomic icon just wants something to do. She likes many things, including hats, but food is the latest fancy, her greatest since arriving in Paris with her husband Paul. Encountering a sprinkling of sexism and a healthy dose of anti-American resistance, Julia studies at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cordonbleu.edu/\">Le Cordon Bleu\u003c/a>, begins teaching classes, and starts work on what will become her seminal tome. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julie is about to turn 30. She's not a selfless person, but she works a selfless job, answering phones in a cubicle for the Lower Manhattan Development Corporation post-9/11. Like bleak shades of \u003ca href=\"http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2007/09_03/SATCfilmingXP_468x460.jpg\">Charlotte, Miranda, and Samantha\u003c/a>, her crummy friends from college torment her over tedious Cobb salad lunches, bragging about the money they make and the professional coups they score, pausing only to scream into cell phones at beleaguered assistants. A failed novelist, Julie also wants something to do, something more, something bigger for herself to give her purpose, an important project to complete -- because, in her mind, she's never been much good at that, the finishing of things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film doesn't sufficiently sell Julie's decision to blog about cooking her way through Child's celebrated book. That on-screen moment is weak, her impetus glossed over like ripples in a cake's frosting. Once Julie gets going, her resolve blossoms into a slightly creepy, worshipful obsession. Julia becomes her imaginary friend, a beacon guiding her through recipe after recipe, challenge after challenge, building and shaping her confidence. I start to become concerned when she dresses up like Child for her 30th birthday party, standing smartly before the gathered company, practically saluting, looking a little like a girl scout pretending to be a totalitarian dictator. She's mean to her husband, a sweet, easy-going guy with little cinematic heft. In a nod to gender roles, he kills lobsters when her hand falters, and willingly suffers through indigestion and his wife's marked disinterest in sex. Again and again, he tries to understand as she flies off the handle, frenzied and emotional, whenever a recipe goes wrong, when she's too whacked on gimlets to hear the timer, or, most memorably, when a stuffed chicken slides awkwardly off the kitchen counter and plummets to the floor in a heap of translucent muck, bone, and splattered forcemeat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/juliachild2.jpg\" alt=\"Amy Adams as Julie Powell in Julie and Julia\" title=\"Amy Adams as Julie Powell in Julie and Julia\" width=\"432\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6048\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Slightly creepy, right?\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This movie is about women's lives in transition, journeys unfolding across unfamiliar terrain. Even though food is not overly sensualized here, tastes only rarely poured over and described rapturously and richly, it's a movie dependent on the power of food, not just to galvanize our appetites and inspire the actors, but to spur on the characters they inhabit, to drive the narrative. In Julie's case, her love of food merely flickers in comparison with her pressing compulsion to broil, stew, and steam her way through the book, for the sake of the blog. When Julia cooks, she's on a journey in a purer sense, without a fixed deadline, only fretting over the fruits of her labor once they've slid into view. Cooking is passion for her, as wild and satisfying as sex, to which she doesn't hesitate to draw parallels. \"These damn things are as hot as a stiff cock,\" she bursts out giddily in Streep's best Child-ese, as she juggles a piping hot cannelloni. At both discoveries, her joy bubbles over in ribald exaltation, whereas Julie, while acknowledging Child's chronicled passion, both in the kitchen and with Paul, the \"butter to [her] bread\", is too busy counting down the chapters to approach her journey with a similarly holistic vigor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn't love the movie, but it was wonderful to see Child rendered so Child-like by a great actress, especially pre-fame, many decades away from becoming the quirky, charming old lady I grew up watching spar with \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kj-oNv6IZ-w\">Jacques Pepin\u003c/a> every Saturday morning. By comparison, the Julie sequences sink like leaden quenelles. They simply prove a point: in this story, or gathering of stories, recipes are vessels. Over the course of the film, three different characters -- Julie, Julia, and Judith Jones, Child's first publisher -- make \u003ca href=\"http://www.recipezaar.com/Boeuf-Bourguignon-a-La-Julia-Child-148007\">boeuf bourguignon\u003c/a>. The same recipe comes to life in different kitchens, under different circumstances. Everyone who cooks it owns a memory of it; each individual effort passing through the recipe as if it were a conduit of experience. As many millions of cookbook owners can attest, Julia Child, or more accurately, what she represents, is a moveable feast. \"I have conversations with her when I cook,\" says Julie, and she's right. Following a recipe is like having a conversation with convention across time and, maybe, depending on how crazy you are, the person who devised it. Like aspics, recipes can be shaky propositions; they're not infallible. For a variety of reasons, they don't always work the way they're supposed to; they require the flexibility, improvisation, and intuition only continued evolution through personal experience can provide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julie despairs when, on the precipice of major media triumph, she finds out the real Julia, not the clucking, whisk-brandishing fairy toque-mother of her fantasies, thinks less than highly of her blog. I'm not surprised; the idea of blogging alone probably couldn't bridge that multi-generational gap, though Child's purported sentiment has been \u003ca href=\"http://thefastertimes.com/foodtrends/2009/08/11/hey-julie-powell-haters-methinks-you-protest-too-much/\">echoed\u003c/a>, unjustly or not, by many of Julie's blogger contemporaries. In the movie, Julie describes blogging as \"yelling into the void.\" She goes from wondering if anyone is reading at all to worrying about what to write because so many people are reading. \"Julie & Julia\" is the first movie I've seen with a built-in blogging debate: are people who share their personal lives online inherently narcissistic and self-indulgent? Are they disingenuous? Are they presumptuous, like some stuffy twit way back in the pre-Internet era, dutifully keeping a diary with the idea it'll later be pored over by fascinated contributors to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nybooks.com/\">New York Review of Books\u003c/a>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What if Julia Child had fallen for Chinese food when she lived there just a few years before moving to Paris? Would American housewives have had to come to terms with \"Mastering the Art of Mandarin Cooking,\" \"Handling Hunan,\" or \"Szechuan From Scratch\"? Might Julie be a directionless, dissatisfied San Franciscan, sequestered in the far reaches of the Richmond District, dashing down Clement Street in search of exotic ingredients, pondering Child's secrets to a sublime \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xiaolongbao\">Shanghai soup dumpling\u003c/a>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's another blog for another day.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "What The Schmidt Is This? (At The Hop)",
"title": "What The Schmidt Is This? (At The Hop)",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/outside500.jpg\" alt=\"Outside of Schmidts looking in to the restaurant\" title=\"Outside of Schmidts looking in to the restaurant\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5485\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Outside of Schmidt's looking into restaurant. Photo by Aimee Shapiro\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One day last week, the lady and I had plans to visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/schmidts-san-francisco-2\">Schmidt's\u003c/a> for dinner. When we're deciding what to eat, we tend to favor collaboration and compromise, at least I do. Sometimes, rarely, our tastes don't intersect, and I always want to find dishes we both want, even if it means passing on something I'd really, really like to try. In the case of Schmidt's, a sleek, two month-old German eatery in the Mission District, I knew what I wanted, and would accept no proxies: hasenpfeffer, a red wine-soaked saddle and leg of rabbit with braised lingonberry-sweetened cabbage. In the hours leading up to our meals together, we typically examine menus online and discuss what appeals via texts and emails. Frequently, we have a pretty good idea of what we'll order before we walk through the restaurant's doors. On this occasion, I'd done my research, and knew, without question, that I had to hit that hop. The problem was, I wasn't so sure my lady would \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2OxLyts-zE\">dance with me\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I positioned myself accordingly. At around 1:00 p.m., I sent off a quick text:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Was thinking about bunny. Now not so sure.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her swift response, even more succinct, confirmed my fears: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I will not eat the bun.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Disappointed yet far from resigned, I honed a strategy. It was too early for negotiations. I ate lunch and crafted a diversionary text, giving the impression I was feeling flexible and perhaps willing to eat something else altogether:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Salad good. Still hungry. Tonight maybe fish if on special.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rabbit is a polarizing meat. The world is full of people like my lady: hyper-carnivorous, adventurous gourmets who gleefully inhale piles of Korean barbecue, fried chicken dinners, and entire flocks in the form of steaming shawarmas, yet turn meek and wane at the prospect of the Easter Bunny, sauteed, on a plate. Rabbits are cute but surely no cuter than fuzzy sheep, baby chickens, and pink piglets -- cuddly creatures we're generally more comfortable cooing over and then, respectfully, consuming. Rabbits are also pets, but even those of us who have never fed and groomed one feel as if we know them. From folklore-steeped tricksters \u003ca href=\"http://4and20blackbirds.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/bugs-bunny.jpg\">Bugs\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.mamalisa.com/images/mother_goose/brer_rabbit_sm.gif\">Bre'er\u003c/a>, to \u003ca href=\"http://disney-clipart.com/bambi/jpg/Thumper-1-lg.jpg\">Thumper\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.alice-in-wonderland.net/alicepic/disney-movie/white-rabbit-with-watch-3.jpg\">Alice's elusive White\u003c/a>, and the whole floppy-eared cast of \u003ca href=\"http://a6.vox.com/6a00c2251eda00f21900e398a8b6060004-500pi\">Watership Down\u003c/a>, the rabbit has an enduring and frequently anthropomorphized presence in popular culture, one that surpasses those of other commonly eaten animals. In whatever form, such familiar images, voices, stories, and carried connotations grip folks, and that, more than a real rabbit's bobbing tail, vacuous little eye-specks, and pink twitching nose, contributes to the skittishness diners display when there's hare to be had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In many cultures, rabbits are a symbol of fertility and rebirth. They're associated with the season Spring and, of course, Easter. In real-life, they're viewed as gentle, vegetarian, harmless, and, despite their breeding proclivities, somehow suggestive of innocence. However, to gardeners like my mother in Louisville, Kentucky, they are far from innocent or harmless; they are a nuisance, a virulent menace fond of hopping, rustling and sniffing, through the backyard shrubbery every April to terrorize lettuce, cucumbers, squash, beans, herbs, and flowers. My mom doesn't hunt or even eat meat, but I doubt she'd mind if \u003ca href=\"http://www.hcdigest.com/assets/Doug%20Howlett/elmer_fudd.jpg\">Elmer Fudd\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.acmeanimation.com/w00082.gif\">Yosemite Sam\u003c/a> showed up one year, shotguns at the ready, to declare war on her tormentors, and keep the neighborhood bistro stocked with lapin all summer long.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in San Francisco, it was 6:30 p.m. My lady and I rolled into Schmidt's, ravenous. As I'd suspected, there was no fish on special. My lady wanted a sausage, which was fine by me. We had to find another entree. I knew exactly what that had to be but I had to bide my time. If she sensed my profound resolve, she did not let on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I just don't think I can do it,\" she said, her eyes peering out, just barely visible above the menu held in front of her face.\u003cbr>\n\"Do what?\" I asked, feigning cluelessness.\u003cbr>\n\"The bunny,\" she said, sighing. \"I'm sure it's amazing, but I don't want to eat it.\"\u003cbr>\n\"It's cool,\" I answered, sort of shrugging lightly and waving my hands as if I didn't care. \"No bunny, no problem. I'll get a sausage too, maybe the duck one.\"\u003cbr>\n\"Two sausages? They don't make the sausages here. If you're writing about this, we should get something they make here too,\" she said, ignoring my \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u14T5wzicqw\">allusion\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\n\"Well, I don't want blood sausage or the veal,\" I countered, gesturing towards the listing for an egg-topped schnitzel festooned with white anchovies, capers, and cauliflower. It was time to play hardball, to throw down cards, and make a final, decisive play. \"I'm getting the rabbit,\" I said, folding my menu and reaching for the beer list. \"Will you eat it?\" I didn't look up as I spoke, trying to appear focused on selecting an appropriate brew.\u003cbr>\nThere was a pause. \"Hell yes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> And so, maneuvering ceased; we were eating rabbit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the classic 1949 cartoon \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLZ3HdRFBs8\">Bowery Bugs\u003c/a>, Bugs Bunny, pacing in circles around his den, carrot in mid-gnaw, makes, in that distinctive, chattering, Flatbush bark, his case for survival to a downtrodden New York City bookie in search of a good luck charm. \"These rabbit's feet never brought me any luck,\" Bugs points out, pleading. \"Look at the lives rabbits lead: Dogs, hunters, and hasenpfeffer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/rabbit500.jpg\" alt=\"rabbit\" title=\"rabbit\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5491\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hasenpfeffer, a red wine-soaked saddle and leg of rabbit with braised lingonberry-sweetened cabbage. Photo by Aimee Shapiro\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bugs could use some perspective. If the version at Schmidt's serves as any indication, hassenpfeffer is an unpretentious yet noble and exceedingly delicious way for a rabbit to end up. For a goofy, unintelligent, nervous wreck of a mammal, this beast sure tastes serious, deep, and soulful after a trip through chef Matt Shapiro's kitchen. Sweet shards of pale meat tumble off delicate bones rising up from a creamy, golden moat of rich sauce, a purple mountain of cabbage looming behind. The \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2009/07/local_flavor_braised_rabbit_an.php\">picture\u003c/a> currently floating around the Internet (to be fair, in the company of a positive, well-crafted mention) unfortunately makes Shapiro's hassenpfeffer look like a symptom of an obscure, unsavory medical condition, or something from one of the \u003ca href=\"http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/c/c3/Alien_movie_poster.jpg\">Alien\u003c/a> movies, a mound of extraterrestrial dung, perhaps. I sympathize. My first crack at pictures in the restaurant's dark dining room turned out so badly I had to outsource art to a real photographer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/beansalad500.jpg\" alt=\"Bean Salad\" title=\"Bean Salad\" width=\"500\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5488\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Bean Salad. Photo by Aimee Shapiro\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rabbit was the defining triumph but not so magnificent as to obscure the rest of the meal: an excellent Thuringer brat, snappy and juicy, best with a touch of an amazing sweet mustard (Schmidt's sells it, along with other German products such as mini-wieners, bottled, floating in water), a subtle, nutty, toothsome salad of green and waxed bean strips with hazelnuts, fried sage, and a citrus vinaigrette, and spaetzle, sans cheese, in fluffy, mild strands, like scrambled eggs colliding with a bowl of cereal -- in a good way. Far from the sort of heavily branded hot-spot designed to lure diners from around the city, Schmidt's is a new neighborhood gem the neighborhood can actually afford -- truly, simply, a very fine place to eat, much like \u003ca href=\"http://www.walzwerk.com/\">Walzwerk\u003c/a>, the owners' first restaurant, though more austere in appearance, with better food. We ordered some bread too, with the idea we'd use it to sop up every last bit of rabbit essence. This was unnecessary. The rabbit came with plenty of bread, the dense, heavy German sort. Unlike less refined purveyors of wurst, Schmidt's doesn't bludgeon you with excessive portions. Bread abuse in the line of duty -- respect for the rabbit's last luscious remnants -- caused me to walk at a 45 degree angle all the way home, stuffed, my body unable to conjure energy for any task beyond digestion. Yet even as I limped, 'kraut-addled, harebrained, breaded, and in need of a comfortable chair, part of me wanted to head back, to find a way to eat some more rabbit. To rock it, to roll it, slop it, and stroll it, once again -- \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2OxLyts-zE\">at the hop\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/schmidts-san-francisco-2\">Schmidt's\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2400 Folsom St\u003cbr>\n(between 20th St & 21st St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\n(415) 401-0200\u003cbr>\n*Cash only \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "One day last week, the lady and I had plans to visit Schmidt's for dinner. When we're deciding what to eat, we tend to favor collaboration and compromise, at least I do. Sometimes, rarely, our tastes don't intersect, and I always want to find dishes we both want, even if it means passing on something I'd really, really like to try. In the case of Schmidt's, a sleek, two month-old German eatery in the Mission District, I knew what I wanted, and would accept no proxies: hasenpfeffer, a red wine-soaked saddle and leg of rabbit with braised lingonberry-sweetened cabbage. ",
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"description": "One day last week, the lady and I had plans to visit Schmidt's for dinner. When we're deciding what to eat, we tend to favor collaboration and compromise, at least I do. Sometimes, rarely, our tastes don't intersect, and I always want to find dishes we both want, even if it means passing on something I'd really, really like to try. In the case of Schmidt's, a sleek, two month-old German eatery in the Mission District, I knew what I wanted, and would accept no proxies: hasenpfeffer, a red wine-soaked saddle and leg of rabbit with braised lingonberry-sweetened cabbage. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/outside500.jpg\" alt=\"Outside of Schmidts looking in to the restaurant\" title=\"Outside of Schmidts looking in to the restaurant\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5485\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Outside of Schmidt's looking into restaurant. Photo by Aimee Shapiro\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One day last week, the lady and I had plans to visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/schmidts-san-francisco-2\">Schmidt's\u003c/a> for dinner. When we're deciding what to eat, we tend to favor collaboration and compromise, at least I do. Sometimes, rarely, our tastes don't intersect, and I always want to find dishes we both want, even if it means passing on something I'd really, really like to try. In the case of Schmidt's, a sleek, two month-old German eatery in the Mission District, I knew what I wanted, and would accept no proxies: hasenpfeffer, a red wine-soaked saddle and leg of rabbit with braised lingonberry-sweetened cabbage. In the hours leading up to our meals together, we typically examine menus online and discuss what appeals via texts and emails. Frequently, we have a pretty good idea of what we'll order before we walk through the restaurant's doors. On this occasion, I'd done my research, and knew, without question, that I had to hit that hop. The problem was, I wasn't so sure my lady would \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2OxLyts-zE\">dance with me\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I positioned myself accordingly. At around 1:00 p.m., I sent off a quick text:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Was thinking about bunny. Now not so sure.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her swift response, even more succinct, confirmed my fears: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I will not eat the bun.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Disappointed yet far from resigned, I honed a strategy. It was too early for negotiations. I ate lunch and crafted a diversionary text, giving the impression I was feeling flexible and perhaps willing to eat something else altogether:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Salad good. Still hungry. Tonight maybe fish if on special.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rabbit is a polarizing meat. The world is full of people like my lady: hyper-carnivorous, adventurous gourmets who gleefully inhale piles of Korean barbecue, fried chicken dinners, and entire flocks in the form of steaming shawarmas, yet turn meek and wane at the prospect of the Easter Bunny, sauteed, on a plate. Rabbits are cute but surely no cuter than fuzzy sheep, baby chickens, and pink piglets -- cuddly creatures we're generally more comfortable cooing over and then, respectfully, consuming. Rabbits are also pets, but even those of us who have never fed and groomed one feel as if we know them. From folklore-steeped tricksters \u003ca href=\"http://4and20blackbirds.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/bugs-bunny.jpg\">Bugs\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.mamalisa.com/images/mother_goose/brer_rabbit_sm.gif\">Bre'er\u003c/a>, to \u003ca href=\"http://disney-clipart.com/bambi/jpg/Thumper-1-lg.jpg\">Thumper\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.alice-in-wonderland.net/alicepic/disney-movie/white-rabbit-with-watch-3.jpg\">Alice's elusive White\u003c/a>, and the whole floppy-eared cast of \u003ca href=\"http://a6.vox.com/6a00c2251eda00f21900e398a8b6060004-500pi\">Watership Down\u003c/a>, the rabbit has an enduring and frequently anthropomorphized presence in popular culture, one that surpasses those of other commonly eaten animals. In whatever form, such familiar images, voices, stories, and carried connotations grip folks, and that, more than a real rabbit's bobbing tail, vacuous little eye-specks, and pink twitching nose, contributes to the skittishness diners display when there's hare to be had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In many cultures, rabbits are a symbol of fertility and rebirth. They're associated with the season Spring and, of course, Easter. In real-life, they're viewed as gentle, vegetarian, harmless, and, despite their breeding proclivities, somehow suggestive of innocence. However, to gardeners like my mother in Louisville, Kentucky, they are far from innocent or harmless; they are a nuisance, a virulent menace fond of hopping, rustling and sniffing, through the backyard shrubbery every April to terrorize lettuce, cucumbers, squash, beans, herbs, and flowers. My mom doesn't hunt or even eat meat, but I doubt she'd mind if \u003ca href=\"http://www.hcdigest.com/assets/Doug%20Howlett/elmer_fudd.jpg\">Elmer Fudd\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.acmeanimation.com/w00082.gif\">Yosemite Sam\u003c/a> showed up one year, shotguns at the ready, to declare war on her tormentors, and keep the neighborhood bistro stocked with lapin all summer long.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in San Francisco, it was 6:30 p.m. My lady and I rolled into Schmidt's, ravenous. As I'd suspected, there was no fish on special. My lady wanted a sausage, which was fine by me. We had to find another entree. I knew exactly what that had to be but I had to bide my time. If she sensed my profound resolve, she did not let on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I just don't think I can do it,\" she said, her eyes peering out, just barely visible above the menu held in front of her face.\u003cbr>\n\"Do what?\" I asked, feigning cluelessness.\u003cbr>\n\"The bunny,\" she said, sighing. \"I'm sure it's amazing, but I don't want to eat it.\"\u003cbr>\n\"It's cool,\" I answered, sort of shrugging lightly and waving my hands as if I didn't care. \"No bunny, no problem. I'll get a sausage too, maybe the duck one.\"\u003cbr>\n\"Two sausages? They don't make the sausages here. If you're writing about this, we should get something they make here too,\" she said, ignoring my \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u14T5wzicqw\">allusion\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\n\"Well, I don't want blood sausage or the veal,\" I countered, gesturing towards the listing for an egg-topped schnitzel festooned with white anchovies, capers, and cauliflower. It was time to play hardball, to throw down cards, and make a final, decisive play. \"I'm getting the rabbit,\" I said, folding my menu and reaching for the beer list. \"Will you eat it?\" I didn't look up as I spoke, trying to appear focused on selecting an appropriate brew.\u003cbr>\nThere was a pause. \"Hell yes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> And so, maneuvering ceased; we were eating rabbit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the classic 1949 cartoon \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLZ3HdRFBs8\">Bowery Bugs\u003c/a>, Bugs Bunny, pacing in circles around his den, carrot in mid-gnaw, makes, in that distinctive, chattering, Flatbush bark, his case for survival to a downtrodden New York City bookie in search of a good luck charm. \"These rabbit's feet never brought me any luck,\" Bugs points out, pleading. \"Look at the lives rabbits lead: Dogs, hunters, and hasenpfeffer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/rabbit500.jpg\" alt=\"rabbit\" title=\"rabbit\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5491\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hasenpfeffer, a red wine-soaked saddle and leg of rabbit with braised lingonberry-sweetened cabbage. Photo by Aimee Shapiro\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bugs could use some perspective. If the version at Schmidt's serves as any indication, hassenpfeffer is an unpretentious yet noble and exceedingly delicious way for a rabbit to end up. For a goofy, unintelligent, nervous wreck of a mammal, this beast sure tastes serious, deep, and soulful after a trip through chef Matt Shapiro's kitchen. Sweet shards of pale meat tumble off delicate bones rising up from a creamy, golden moat of rich sauce, a purple mountain of cabbage looming behind. The \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2009/07/local_flavor_braised_rabbit_an.php\">picture\u003c/a> currently floating around the Internet (to be fair, in the company of a positive, well-crafted mention) unfortunately makes Shapiro's hassenpfeffer look like a symptom of an obscure, unsavory medical condition, or something from one of the \u003ca href=\"http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/c/c3/Alien_movie_poster.jpg\">Alien\u003c/a> movies, a mound of extraterrestrial dung, perhaps. I sympathize. My first crack at pictures in the restaurant's dark dining room turned out so badly I had to outsource art to a real photographer. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/beansalad500.jpg\" alt=\"Bean Salad\" title=\"Bean Salad\" width=\"500\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5488\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Bean Salad. Photo by Aimee Shapiro\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rabbit was the defining triumph but not so magnificent as to obscure the rest of the meal: an excellent Thuringer brat, snappy and juicy, best with a touch of an amazing sweet mustard (Schmidt's sells it, along with other German products such as mini-wieners, bottled, floating in water), a subtle, nutty, toothsome salad of green and waxed bean strips with hazelnuts, fried sage, and a citrus vinaigrette, and spaetzle, sans cheese, in fluffy, mild strands, like scrambled eggs colliding with a bowl of cereal -- in a good way. Far from the sort of heavily branded hot-spot designed to lure diners from around the city, Schmidt's is a new neighborhood gem the neighborhood can actually afford -- truly, simply, a very fine place to eat, much like \u003ca href=\"http://www.walzwerk.com/\">Walzwerk\u003c/a>, the owners' first restaurant, though more austere in appearance, with better food. We ordered some bread too, with the idea we'd use it to sop up every last bit of rabbit essence. This was unnecessary. The rabbit came with plenty of bread, the dense, heavy German sort. Unlike less refined purveyors of wurst, Schmidt's doesn't bludgeon you with excessive portions. Bread abuse in the line of duty -- respect for the rabbit's last luscious remnants -- caused me to walk at a 45 degree angle all the way home, stuffed, my body unable to conjure energy for any task beyond digestion. Yet even as I limped, 'kraut-addled, harebrained, breaded, and in need of a comfortable chair, part of me wanted to head back, to find a way to eat some more rabbit. To rock it, to roll it, slop it, and stroll it, once again -- \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2OxLyts-zE\">at the hop\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/schmidts-san-francisco-2\">Schmidt's\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2400 Folsom St\u003cbr>\n(between 20th St & 21st St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\n(415) 401-0200\u003cbr>\n*Cash only \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "A Tale of Two Pizzas",
"title": "A Tale of Two Pizzas",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>It was the season of sauce, it was the season of toppings. It was the spring of onions, it was the sausage of despair. We had pies before us, we had crusts before us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/taleza300.jpg\" alt=\"A Tale of Two Pizzas\" title=\"A Tale of Two Pizzas\" width=\"300\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-5234\">No lesser authority than The New York Times says artisanal pizza is on the rise. Just last week, the Gray Lady \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/08/dining/08pizza.html?ref=dining/\">blew the trend up\u003c/a>, making a case for the elegantly appointed pizzeria as a cost-conscious diner's best bet amid rotten economic circumstances. In San Francisco, this sub-genre of the pizza form is currently encroaching on the Mission District's once-fior di latte-less expanse with great success. \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzeriadelfina.com/\">Pizzeria Delfina\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://berettasf.com/\">Beretta\u003c/a> are delicious examples of what's sizzling in Burritoland, though only the former would probably describe itself as a pizzeria first and foremost. \u003ca href=\"http://flourandwater.com/about/\">Flour + Water\u003c/a> just opened on Harrison in the last few months, serving pasta, salumi, and a familiar stripe of 'za: smallish, thin-crusted rounds decked out in classic and occasionally inventive combinations of toppings with a traditional bent and heavy, local-centric nods to seasonality. As if that weren't enough upscale crust and cheese to blanket a few square miles of coveted real estate, \u003ca href=\"http://pibarsf.com/\">Pi Bar\u003c/a> will soon start slinging (whole pies and cheese slices for, ha ha, $3.14) on Valencia near 25th, at a renovated space once home to Suriya Thai.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might not have heard, but in Fall of 2008, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfpizzeria.com/\">Pizzeria\u003c/a> opened its doors on a humming stretch of Valencia Street, not far from its intersection with 18th. As of press time, the establishment has garnered \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/pizzeria-san-francisco#hrid:7Wq8aFWDcrtU6ayjSjOJMQ/src:search/query:pizzeria\">45 reviews\u003c/a> on Yelp, most of them quite positive. Yet, for all the times I've wandered past its wide windows, I've never seen a customer populating one of the dining room's handsome circular wooden tables. I've stared at the menu. I've contemplated the helpful photographs of Pizzeria's offerings pasted to the front window. I've watched cooks bustle, a waiter mop, and a manager meticulously refill and reposition jars of red pepper flakes on the long counter, but, never, not once, have I witnessed a person, sitting down, napkin on lap, actually tucking into a plate of anything. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I've always wondered why. Location could not be the problem. Valencia is a major thoroughfare for night-time revelers and day-time shoppers. The product itself is not immediately suspect either. It's pizza, after all; everyone likes it. Unlike Beretta and Flour + Water, and to a lesser extent, Pizzeria Delfina, purveyors of an ostensibly fancier kind of pizza, the vibe is not glamorous. Apart from the wood oven used to bake them, the wares are not authentic but fairly pan-pizza in approach, though, in this age of hyper-fusion frenzy, that shouldn't deter the masses. You won't find habaneros, chicken tikka masala, or barbecue on pizza in Naples, but, these days, in the United States, thanks perhaps to the influence of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cpk.com/\">California Pizza Kitchen\u003c/a>, they're not exactly unusual toppings, and perfectly appropriate in the right context. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pizzeria is also Halal. The pig is on a big muddy pedastal these days, and there's a chance the absence of house-cured prosciutto, guanciale, and an occasional trotter special throws potential customers off the scent. In addition, Pizzeria sells no alcohol. One Yelper reports brown-bagging some brew, but the restaurant doesn't specifically recommend doing so. Unless you're willing to ask and perhaps plead, the closest thing to a dinner buzz or a perfect pairing you'll get here will have to come in the form of a $2.50 soda. For many, this will prove a bigger sticking point than the pancetta \u003cem>non grata\u003c/em> situation. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Could cost be the issue? Probably not, though, as far as pizza goes, Pizzeria's is not particularly inexpensive. In fact, its pizza margherita costs a dollar more than a similarly sized version made by Flour + Water, when the ingredients are obviously the same: tomatoes, fresh basil, mozzarella, and olive oil. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Generally speaking, when a restaurant's always empty, no passer-by wants to play guinea pig. Delivery customers write the majority of Pizzeria's Yelp reviews, and they tend to gush about speedy delivery and the endearing customer service, signs a few people have been curious enough to phone in orders, and the business owners are working hard to amass devotees, one at a time if necessary. Pizzeria is not open for lunch, which seems like a curious choice to make, especially if the owners want bodies in the dining room. Walk-in customers are more likely at lunch-time, especially on the weekends, when weary shoppers from other parts of town, quivering beneath the weight of new purchases, and stoned folks staggering in from Dolores Park make impulsive dining decisions based on whatever is in front of them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike Pizzeria, Flour + Water, the sort of sleek, self-styled \"neighborhood\" restaurant that employs a publicist, has been hot. \u003ca href=\"http://flourandwater.com/press/\">A dozen local press mentions and reviews \u003c/a> popped up within days of its opening, many before, and over \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/flour-water-san-francisco\">118 reviewers\u003c/a> have since weighed in, many charmed by the food, a number irritated by the crowds and clientele, and more than a few disparaging of the hosts' demeanor. No one likes a line, and Flour + Water's perpetually snakes out the door like links of runaway sausages. In shaping their doughy vision, the heads behind Flour + Water actually followed a pizza \u003ca href=\"http://missionlocal.org/2009/05/a-recession-time-to-open-a-restaurant-say-mission-district-entrepreneurs/\">principle\u003c/a> not unlike what was outlined in the Times piece, figuring rustic fare in a lovely dark wood-enhanced setting might rake in diners trying to scale back on spending without sacrificing the level of ambience regular restaurant-goers tend to favor. According to Flour + Water's website, the restaurant's design and construction \"are all about the mantra of the triple r: refurbished, repurposed and reclaimed,\" a triptych of buzzwords pretty much designed to make people feel as if they're sitting down to something real, hip, and happening, yet non-indulgent, and even -- gasp -- responsible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pizzeria and Flour + Water don't serve the same kind of pizza, so reviewing them in tandem wouldn't make sense. I'm interested in why one restaurant is full, and the other is empty. Does the press machine get behind whatever they're told to get behind by whomever gets to decide what should be gotten behind? Is herd mentality a lot of what's keeping Flour + Water packed tighter than a jar of oil-cured anchovies and Pizzeria as forlorn and lonely as a marinara-deprived breadstick? Does a Halal pizzeria without a pizzaiolo or a publicist stand a chance in this city?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Saturday, I decided to seize the pizza by the box and give Pizzeria a real shot. At 5:15 p.m., I slowly and deliberately walked up to the door. I looked in through the smudged glass. I couldn't do it. The prospect of being the only person in the place stressed me out. A lopsided ratio of cooks to customers makes for awkward dining, a rigid, uncomfortable experience, like at a show, when a band dwarfs the crowd. I turned tail and scurried back to my apartment where, furious with my lack of courage, yet quite relieved, I immediately dialed in an order for delivery: a $12 small \"Popeye\" pizza (baby spinach, slow-roasted garlic, and red onion) to which I, for an extra buck, boldly added beef pepperoni. Minutes later, Pizzeria's pizza and I were face-to-face. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/zafordinner300.jpg\" alt=\"pizzeria\" title=\"pizzeria\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-5233\">The mystery was over. The crust's bottom was black and blistery; the gnarled sides and top were beautiful, rutted in all the right places, tunnels of taste within, perfect pockets of air crunching, wafer-like, between teeth. The toppings were fine. I liked the cheese. The sauce was unmemorable. The thick slices of raw red onion didn't do much for me. I prefer them cooked, semi-pickled, or, if raw, very, very, very thinly slivered. The beef pepperoni didn't taste weird until I tried it cold on Sunday morning. Overall, Pizzeria makes a really good pizza in keeping with its intent: flavorful, timely, unpretentious, and very pizza-like. Everyone should go there ... or at least get something delivered.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "You might not have heard, but in Fall of 2008, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfpizzeria.com/\">Pizzeria\u003c/a> opened its doors on a humming stretch of Valencia Street, not far from its intersection with 18th. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>It was the season of sauce, it was the season of toppings. It was the spring of onions, it was the sausage of despair. We had pies before us, we had crusts before us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/taleza300.jpg\" alt=\"A Tale of Two Pizzas\" title=\"A Tale of Two Pizzas\" width=\"300\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-5234\">No lesser authority than The New York Times says artisanal pizza is on the rise. Just last week, the Gray Lady \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/08/dining/08pizza.html?ref=dining/\">blew the trend up\u003c/a>, making a case for the elegantly appointed pizzeria as a cost-conscious diner's best bet amid rotten economic circumstances. In San Francisco, this sub-genre of the pizza form is currently encroaching on the Mission District's once-fior di latte-less expanse with great success. \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzeriadelfina.com/\">Pizzeria Delfina\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://berettasf.com/\">Beretta\u003c/a> are delicious examples of what's sizzling in Burritoland, though only the former would probably describe itself as a pizzeria first and foremost. \u003ca href=\"http://flourandwater.com/about/\">Flour + Water\u003c/a> just opened on Harrison in the last few months, serving pasta, salumi, and a familiar stripe of 'za: smallish, thin-crusted rounds decked out in classic and occasionally inventive combinations of toppings with a traditional bent and heavy, local-centric nods to seasonality. As if that weren't enough upscale crust and cheese to blanket a few square miles of coveted real estate, \u003ca href=\"http://pibarsf.com/\">Pi Bar\u003c/a> will soon start slinging (whole pies and cheese slices for, ha ha, $3.14) on Valencia near 25th, at a renovated space once home to Suriya Thai.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might not have heard, but in Fall of 2008, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfpizzeria.com/\">Pizzeria\u003c/a> opened its doors on a humming stretch of Valencia Street, not far from its intersection with 18th. As of press time, the establishment has garnered \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/pizzeria-san-francisco#hrid:7Wq8aFWDcrtU6ayjSjOJMQ/src:search/query:pizzeria\">45 reviews\u003c/a> on Yelp, most of them quite positive. Yet, for all the times I've wandered past its wide windows, I've never seen a customer populating one of the dining room's handsome circular wooden tables. I've stared at the menu. I've contemplated the helpful photographs of Pizzeria's offerings pasted to the front window. I've watched cooks bustle, a waiter mop, and a manager meticulously refill and reposition jars of red pepper flakes on the long counter, but, never, not once, have I witnessed a person, sitting down, napkin on lap, actually tucking into a plate of anything. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I've always wondered why. Location could not be the problem. Valencia is a major thoroughfare for night-time revelers and day-time shoppers. The product itself is not immediately suspect either. It's pizza, after all; everyone likes it. Unlike Beretta and Flour + Water, and to a lesser extent, Pizzeria Delfina, purveyors of an ostensibly fancier kind of pizza, the vibe is not glamorous. Apart from the wood oven used to bake them, the wares are not authentic but fairly pan-pizza in approach, though, in this age of hyper-fusion frenzy, that shouldn't deter the masses. You won't find habaneros, chicken tikka masala, or barbecue on pizza in Naples, but, these days, in the United States, thanks perhaps to the influence of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cpk.com/\">California Pizza Kitchen\u003c/a>, they're not exactly unusual toppings, and perfectly appropriate in the right context. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pizzeria is also Halal. The pig is on a big muddy pedastal these days, and there's a chance the absence of house-cured prosciutto, guanciale, and an occasional trotter special throws potential customers off the scent. In addition, Pizzeria sells no alcohol. One Yelper reports brown-bagging some brew, but the restaurant doesn't specifically recommend doing so. Unless you're willing to ask and perhaps plead, the closest thing to a dinner buzz or a perfect pairing you'll get here will have to come in the form of a $2.50 soda. For many, this will prove a bigger sticking point than the pancetta \u003cem>non grata\u003c/em> situation. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Could cost be the issue? Probably not, though, as far as pizza goes, Pizzeria's is not particularly inexpensive. In fact, its pizza margherita costs a dollar more than a similarly sized version made by Flour + Water, when the ingredients are obviously the same: tomatoes, fresh basil, mozzarella, and olive oil. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Generally speaking, when a restaurant's always empty, no passer-by wants to play guinea pig. Delivery customers write the majority of Pizzeria's Yelp reviews, and they tend to gush about speedy delivery and the endearing customer service, signs a few people have been curious enough to phone in orders, and the business owners are working hard to amass devotees, one at a time if necessary. Pizzeria is not open for lunch, which seems like a curious choice to make, especially if the owners want bodies in the dining room. Walk-in customers are more likely at lunch-time, especially on the weekends, when weary shoppers from other parts of town, quivering beneath the weight of new purchases, and stoned folks staggering in from Dolores Park make impulsive dining decisions based on whatever is in front of them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike Pizzeria, Flour + Water, the sort of sleek, self-styled \"neighborhood\" restaurant that employs a publicist, has been hot. \u003ca href=\"http://flourandwater.com/press/\">A dozen local press mentions and reviews \u003c/a> popped up within days of its opening, many before, and over \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/flour-water-san-francisco\">118 reviewers\u003c/a> have since weighed in, many charmed by the food, a number irritated by the crowds and clientele, and more than a few disparaging of the hosts' demeanor. No one likes a line, and Flour + Water's perpetually snakes out the door like links of runaway sausages. In shaping their doughy vision, the heads behind Flour + Water actually followed a pizza \u003ca href=\"http://missionlocal.org/2009/05/a-recession-time-to-open-a-restaurant-say-mission-district-entrepreneurs/\">principle\u003c/a> not unlike what was outlined in the Times piece, figuring rustic fare in a lovely dark wood-enhanced setting might rake in diners trying to scale back on spending without sacrificing the level of ambience regular restaurant-goers tend to favor. According to Flour + Water's website, the restaurant's design and construction \"are all about the mantra of the triple r: refurbished, repurposed and reclaimed,\" a triptych of buzzwords pretty much designed to make people feel as if they're sitting down to something real, hip, and happening, yet non-indulgent, and even -- gasp -- responsible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pizzeria and Flour + Water don't serve the same kind of pizza, so reviewing them in tandem wouldn't make sense. I'm interested in why one restaurant is full, and the other is empty. Does the press machine get behind whatever they're told to get behind by whomever gets to decide what should be gotten behind? Is herd mentality a lot of what's keeping Flour + Water packed tighter than a jar of oil-cured anchovies and Pizzeria as forlorn and lonely as a marinara-deprived breadstick? Does a Halal pizzeria without a pizzaiolo or a publicist stand a chance in this city?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Saturday, I decided to seize the pizza by the box and give Pizzeria a real shot. At 5:15 p.m., I slowly and deliberately walked up to the door. I looked in through the smudged glass. I couldn't do it. The prospect of being the only person in the place stressed me out. A lopsided ratio of cooks to customers makes for awkward dining, a rigid, uncomfortable experience, like at a show, when a band dwarfs the crowd. I turned tail and scurried back to my apartment where, furious with my lack of courage, yet quite relieved, I immediately dialed in an order for delivery: a $12 small \"Popeye\" pizza (baby spinach, slow-roasted garlic, and red onion) to which I, for an extra buck, boldly added beef pepperoni. Minutes later, Pizzeria's pizza and I were face-to-face. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/zafordinner300.jpg\" alt=\"pizzeria\" title=\"pizzeria\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-5233\">The mystery was over. The crust's bottom was black and blistery; the gnarled sides and top were beautiful, rutted in all the right places, tunnels of taste within, perfect pockets of air crunching, wafer-like, between teeth. The toppings were fine. I liked the cheese. The sauce was unmemorable. The thick slices of raw red onion didn't do much for me. I prefer them cooked, semi-pickled, or, if raw, very, very, very thinly slivered. The beef pepperoni didn't taste weird until I tried it cold on Sunday morning. Overall, Pizzeria makes a really good pizza in keeping with its intent: flavorful, timely, unpretentious, and very pizza-like. Everyone should go there ... or at least get something delivered.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Paladar: Cuban Sando, I think I love you",
"title": "Paladar: Cuban Sando, I think I love you",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/paladar-022.jpg\" alt=\"Paladar - Sandwich Cubano\" title=\"Paladar - Sandwich Cubano\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5131\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sandwich Cubano\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rich, roasted, shredded Niman pork, boiled ham, melty Swiss, an even layer of sweet and tangy pickles, whole grain mustard, creamy mayo, and a buttery, crusty, fresh roll, hot pressed, melding it all together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ah.MA.zing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No, seriously. If I could marry a sandwich, this would be it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each bite of the \u003cstrong>Cubano\u003c/strong> gives you everything one could ever wish for in a sandwich. Meatiness. Meltiness. Crunch. Chew. An explosion of flavors in perfect harmony. Mee-ow. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's no wonder that this bright little Cuban café is always packed at lunchtime. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/paladar-002.jpg\" alt=\"Paladar Cafe Cubano, San Francisco FiDi\" title=\"Paladar Cafe Cubano, San Francisco FiDi\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5127\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Paladar Café Cubano, San Francisco FiDi\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/paladar-008.jpg\" alt=\"Lunchtime at Paladar\" title=\"Lunchtime at Paladar\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5128\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Lunchtime at Paladar\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Latin music keeps things lively -- as does the addictive \u003cstrong>Café con Leche\u003c/strong>, and the \u003cstrong>Mexican Coca-Cola\u003c/strong> made with real cane sugar, all 39 grams/serving of it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/paladar-011.jpg\" alt=\" Mexican Coca-Cola\" title=\" Mexican Coca-Cola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5129\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mexican Coca-Cola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The regulars are stoked to be back -- on my first visit, I actually overheard a dapper gentleman in a panama hat and seersucker exclaim to no one in particular, \"Man! This place \u003cem>rocks\u003c/em>!\" as he salsa'd out the door.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there is the food -- warm, inviting, and satisfying. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/paladar-019.jpg\" alt=\"Picadillo, Paladar Cafe Cubano\" title=\"Picadillo, Paladar Cafe Cubano\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5130\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Picadillo, Paladar Café Cubano\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other than wanting to marry the \u003cstrong>Cuban Sandwich\u003c/strong>, you may also find yourself wanting to have babies with the \u003cstrong>Picadillo Cubano estilo Elena\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Niman ground beef, browned and seasoned with sautéed onions, garlic, tomatoes, peppers, green olives, raisins, and herbs, the result is an intensely aromatic Cuban version of an Italian ragu. The \u003cstrong>Picadillo\u003c/strong> is served with fluffy white rice and fried sweet plantains. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sandwiches and mains are also served with a side of mixed greens. Nice touch. Sometimes it is drizzled with a heavenly coconut milk dressing, other times with a garlic aioli. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Cuba, paladares are small family-run restaurants that serve home-cooking. While the space at Paladar Café Cubano may be small, the flavors are big. Big, bold, and comforting. This is food that makes you smile. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.paladarcafecubano.com\">Paladar Café Cubano\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n329 Kearny St\u003cbr>\n(between Bush St & Pine St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94108\u003cbr>\n(415) 398-4899 \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/paladar-022.jpg\" alt=\"Paladar - Sandwich Cubano\" title=\"Paladar - Sandwich Cubano\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5131\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sandwich Cubano\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rich, roasted, shredded Niman pork, boiled ham, melty Swiss, an even layer of sweet and tangy pickles, whole grain mustard, creamy mayo, and a buttery, crusty, fresh roll, hot pressed, melding it all together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ah.MA.zing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No, seriously. If I could marry a sandwich, this would be it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each bite of the \u003cstrong>Cubano\u003c/strong> gives you everything one could ever wish for in a sandwich. Meatiness. Meltiness. Crunch. Chew. An explosion of flavors in perfect harmony. Mee-ow. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's no wonder that this bright little Cuban café is always packed at lunchtime. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/paladar-002.jpg\" alt=\"Paladar Cafe Cubano, San Francisco FiDi\" title=\"Paladar Cafe Cubano, San Francisco FiDi\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5127\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Paladar Café Cubano, San Francisco FiDi\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/paladar-008.jpg\" alt=\"Lunchtime at Paladar\" title=\"Lunchtime at Paladar\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5128\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Lunchtime at Paladar\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Latin music keeps things lively -- as does the addictive \u003cstrong>Café con Leche\u003c/strong>, and the \u003cstrong>Mexican Coca-Cola\u003c/strong> made with real cane sugar, all 39 grams/serving of it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/paladar-011.jpg\" alt=\" Mexican Coca-Cola\" title=\" Mexican Coca-Cola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5129\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mexican Coca-Cola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The regulars are stoked to be back -- on my first visit, I actually overheard a dapper gentleman in a panama hat and seersucker exclaim to no one in particular, \"Man! This place \u003cem>rocks\u003c/em>!\" as he salsa'd out the door.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there is the food -- warm, inviting, and satisfying. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/paladar-019.jpg\" alt=\"Picadillo, Paladar Cafe Cubano\" title=\"Picadillo, Paladar Cafe Cubano\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5130\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Picadillo, Paladar Café Cubano\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other than wanting to marry the \u003cstrong>Cuban Sandwich\u003c/strong>, you may also find yourself wanting to have babies with the \u003cstrong>Picadillo Cubano estilo Elena\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Niman ground beef, browned and seasoned with sautéed onions, garlic, tomatoes, peppers, green olives, raisins, and herbs, the result is an intensely aromatic Cuban version of an Italian ragu. The \u003cstrong>Picadillo\u003c/strong> is served with fluffy white rice and fried sweet plantains. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sandwiches and mains are also served with a side of mixed greens. Nice touch. Sometimes it is drizzled with a heavenly coconut milk dressing, other times with a garlic aioli. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Cuba, paladares are small family-run restaurants that serve home-cooking. While the space at Paladar Café Cubano may be small, the flavors are big. Big, bold, and comforting. This is food that makes you smile. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.paladarcafecubano.com\">Paladar Café Cubano\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n329 Kearny St\u003cbr>\n(between Bush St & Pine St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94108\u003cbr>\n(415) 398-4899 \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Toot Toot Tootsie, Hello!",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/G-WZRUIfHjo&hl=en&fs=1&\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/G-WZRUIfHjo&hl=en&fs=1&\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thank god for crappy hospital food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seriously, as much as I respect and liked my caretakers at Lucile Packard Children's Hospital at Stanford, their food was not all they advertised. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Big surprise, right? Thankfully, my husband was ready and willing to bring back food from any place I wanted. He even would have driven up to San Francisco to bring me \u003ca href=\"http://piccinocafe.com/\">Piccino\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://nopalitosf.com/\">Nopalito\u003c/a>. Lucky for us and for our future stomachs that he didn't have to go nearly so far. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just down the street from the hospital is \u003cstrong>Tootsie's\u003c/strong>. Tucked in the historic Stanford Barn, which served as the Stanford winery until 1893, Tootsie's is a little Italian jewel of an eatery that offers high-end coffees and espresso, sandwiches, fresh salads, and breakfasts. \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/jennifer-maiser/\">Jen Maiser\u003c/a> alerted me to Tootsie's existence soon after we moved down here, and we'd been intending to go ever since. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a bow to the location's history, Shannon and Rocco Scordella named their place for university namesake Leland Stanford Junior's dog (did you follow that?) and opened the red bricked restaurant six months ago. Both Scordellas have worked in fine dining in New York, and Chef Rocco, who originally hails from Puglia and Bologna, Italy, was brought to New York by Mario Batali to work at \u003ca href=\"http://www.delposto.com/home.htm\">Del Posto\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, we kept wanting to go for dinner, which they don't serve -- though Shannon did tell us on a recent visit that they might move to small plates and an enoteca-type setting -- so most of our half-hearted efforts were thwarted until I was in the hospital with a days-old baby. Mathra called me from Tootsie's to read off their menu -- I had my laptop in the hospital (of course!) but their website doesn't seem to be operational -- and he didn't get past, \"fried chicken sandwich.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Man. That sandwich. That SANDWICH! That sandwich isn't just a sandwich. It's a crispy-succulent soul reviver, topped with endive-caper slaw and snugged between two halves of a crusty bun. After getting only two hours of sleep in the 48 hours that followed Henry's birth, that sandwich saved my sanity and kept me from going all \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Yellow_Wallpaper\">Yellow Wallpaper\u003c/a> in the maternity ward. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/tootsies.jpg\" alt=\"tootsies\" title=\"tootsies\" width=\"350\" height=\"263\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-4881\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been home from the hospital for two weeks, and I've had that sandwich -- along with the accompanying homemade oregano potato chips -- five times. If that sandwich was the only thing they served, I still would think Tootsie's was worth it. However, good thing for everyone else (who have enough sense to take me at my word and run, don't walk, to Tootsie's), they also have a brilliant agrumi salad with butter lettuce, radish, celery, grapefruit segments, and shaved fennel; and a white bean, fennel, and flaked tuna salad with the springiest, most pristine arugula outside of Chez Panisse's crisper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A very recent trip had us trying a brand new menu item: octopus and farro salad with celery and carrots, a divine dish that Rocco told us was his mother's recipe from Puglia. On the same trip, we sampled an Italian sausage and roasted pepper sandwich on a thick bun that was slabbed over with broccoli pesto and light touches of mustard; both were delicious dishes I hope I see often on the menu. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For breakfast, I will clog my arteries as frequently as I can with their poached egg on thick toast. Sound prosaic? What if I tell you that the poached egg is topped with celery, olives, and a drizzle of olive oil? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some day I plan to try their crêpe-esque ricotta pancakes with strawberries, but I'm having a hard time tearing myself away from that poached egg. I also had a bite of their veal-pork burger with olives and oregano ground right into the meat and slathered with caramelized onions and mozzarella cheese. I wonder if anyone will believe me when I say that the shoestring potatoes Tootsie's serves with that burger are better than those found at Zuni Cafe?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tootsie's at the Stanford Barn\u003cbr>\n700 Quarry Road\u003cbr>\nPalo Alto, CA 94304\u003cbr>\n(650) 566-8445\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/G-WZRUIfHjo&hl=en&fs=1&\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/G-WZRUIfHjo&hl=en&fs=1&\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thank god for crappy hospital food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seriously, as much as I respect and liked my caretakers at Lucile Packard Children's Hospital at Stanford, their food was not all they advertised. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Big surprise, right? Thankfully, my husband was ready and willing to bring back food from any place I wanted. He even would have driven up to San Francisco to bring me \u003ca href=\"http://piccinocafe.com/\">Piccino\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://nopalitosf.com/\">Nopalito\u003c/a>. Lucky for us and for our future stomachs that he didn't have to go nearly so far. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just down the street from the hospital is \u003cstrong>Tootsie's\u003c/strong>. Tucked in the historic Stanford Barn, which served as the Stanford winery until 1893, Tootsie's is a little Italian jewel of an eatery that offers high-end coffees and espresso, sandwiches, fresh salads, and breakfasts. \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/jennifer-maiser/\">Jen Maiser\u003c/a> alerted me to Tootsie's existence soon after we moved down here, and we'd been intending to go ever since. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a bow to the location's history, Shannon and Rocco Scordella named their place for university namesake Leland Stanford Junior's dog (did you follow that?) and opened the red bricked restaurant six months ago. Both Scordellas have worked in fine dining in New York, and Chef Rocco, who originally hails from Puglia and Bologna, Italy, was brought to New York by Mario Batali to work at \u003ca href=\"http://www.delposto.com/home.htm\">Del Posto\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, we kept wanting to go for dinner, which they don't serve -- though Shannon did tell us on a recent visit that they might move to small plates and an enoteca-type setting -- so most of our half-hearted efforts were thwarted until I was in the hospital with a days-old baby. Mathra called me from Tootsie's to read off their menu -- I had my laptop in the hospital (of course!) but their website doesn't seem to be operational -- and he didn't get past, \"fried chicken sandwich.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Man. That sandwich. That SANDWICH! That sandwich isn't just a sandwich. It's a crispy-succulent soul reviver, topped with endive-caper slaw and snugged between two halves of a crusty bun. After getting only two hours of sleep in the 48 hours that followed Henry's birth, that sandwich saved my sanity and kept me from going all \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Yellow_Wallpaper\">Yellow Wallpaper\u003c/a> in the maternity ward. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/tootsies.jpg\" alt=\"tootsies\" title=\"tootsies\" width=\"350\" height=\"263\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-4881\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been home from the hospital for two weeks, and I've had that sandwich -- along with the accompanying homemade oregano potato chips -- five times. If that sandwich was the only thing they served, I still would think Tootsie's was worth it. However, good thing for everyone else (who have enough sense to take me at my word and run, don't walk, to Tootsie's), they also have a brilliant agrumi salad with butter lettuce, radish, celery, grapefruit segments, and shaved fennel; and a white bean, fennel, and flaked tuna salad with the springiest, most pristine arugula outside of Chez Panisse's crisper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A very recent trip had us trying a brand new menu item: octopus and farro salad with celery and carrots, a divine dish that Rocco told us was his mother's recipe from Puglia. On the same trip, we sampled an Italian sausage and roasted pepper sandwich on a thick bun that was slabbed over with broccoli pesto and light touches of mustard; both were delicious dishes I hope I see often on the menu. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For breakfast, I will clog my arteries as frequently as I can with their poached egg on thick toast. Sound prosaic? What if I tell you that the poached egg is topped with celery, olives, and a drizzle of olive oil? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some day I plan to try their crêpe-esque ricotta pancakes with strawberries, but I'm having a hard time tearing myself away from that poached egg. I also had a bite of their veal-pork burger with olives and oregano ground right into the meat and slathered with caramelized onions and mozzarella cheese. I wonder if anyone will believe me when I say that the shoestring potatoes Tootsie's serves with that burger are better than those found at Zuni Cafe?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tootsie's at the Stanford Barn\u003cbr>\n700 Quarry Road\u003cbr>\nPalo Alto, CA 94304\u003cbr>\n(650) 566-8445\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Red Crawfish",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_bag.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish_bag\" title=\"crawfish_bag\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5095\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my favorite culinary mash-ups of recent years is the Vietnamese-Chinese-Cajun crawfish boil served with rice or garlic noodles. Following the arc of families moving from Vietnam to New Orleans to Southern California to, finally, San Jose and San Francisco, mud bugs have taken a garlicky turn and shown up, of all places, in Little Saigon's across the country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://redcrawfishsf.com/\">Red Crawfish\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> in San Francisco's Tenderloin is the one closest and dearest to me, as I head over that way anytime I'm craving familiar, comforting flavors. Boiled crawfish is a new tradition among my peeps, but it's one that I'm very happy to adopt, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eating here is a dress-down, messy affair that requires friends with absolutely no pretensions about food. The red, steaming, spicy crawfish come out from the kitchen in pails and are plopped down on the paper-topped table inside plastic bags, rather than piled right on the table, to hold in all that the thick, rich broth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_fries.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish fries\" title=\"crawfish fries\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5096\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love very spicy food and found that the medium was just fine for me. If you're hungry and a bit of a glutton, you could eat two pounds of crawfish with nothing else, but it's definitely hard to resist popular side orders like batter-fried sweet potatoes, buttery garlic noodles, buttery garlic toast, or just plain rice. You can also order potatoes and corn on the cob, and they'll throw them right in with the crawfish. If you don't \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xT9mkqpfwlQ&feature=related\">\u003cstrong>suck the heads\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (and the purists among us would insist that you do), you should at least order some garlic noodles or a bowl of rice for soaking up all the juicy goodness that spurts out of each one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are other entrees on \u003ca href=\"http://redcrawfishsf.com/menu.html\">\u003cstrong>the Red Crawfish's menu\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> -- the usual suspects of Vietnamese fare dominates over the Cajun influence -- but I haven't yet strayed far from the namesake of the restaurant. The huge bowl of spicy seafood soup is definitely worth sharing, while next on my list is one of my favorite dishes, bun rieu, seafood and tomato-tinged broth served over rice noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_soup.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish soup\" title=\"crawfish soup\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5101\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the DIY folks, there's also plenty of local crawfish harvested from the Sacramento Delta and from California's rice fields. Although the \u003ca href=\"http://www.crawdadfestival.org/\">\u003cstrong>Isleton Crawdad Festival\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> was canceled last month, another victim of the recession, you can still pick up live mud bugs (more for the rest of us!) from Bob's Bait Shop a.k.a. \u003ca href=\"http://themasterbaiter.tripod.com/\">\u003cstrong>The Master Baiter\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. Located near the Sacramento Delta and the premier sources of live bait in the area, the shop also provides local crawfish for cooks picky about freshness. Be sure to call in advance, especially if you need more than 15 pounds. Check also with large Asian supermarkets near you, especially \u003ca href=\"http://www.99ranch.com/StoreLocator.asp?Store=All\">\u003cstrong>99 Ranch Market\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, where crawfish can often be found crawling around live in the tanks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those of us who have no shame will even ask the server at Red Crawfish to leave all the shells on the table so that, at the end of the meal, we can bag them up, spices and all, to make a very tasty stock back at home. Add some \u003ca href=\"http://hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Make-the-Cajun-Trinity\">\u003cstrong>Cajun trinity\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, some dark roux, stir in a little heavy cream and lots of dry sherry, pull out a blender and a mesh strainer -- and you have a pot of mighty tasty soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://redcrawfishsf.com/\">RED CRAWFISH\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n611 Larkin Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94109\u003cbr>\n(415) 771-1388\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=red+crawfish&sll=37.784808,-122.417092&sspn=0.008488,0.006899&ie=UTF8&z=17&iwloc=A\">\u003cstrong>Map\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://themasterbaiter.tripod.com/\">BOB'S BAIT SHOP\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n302 2nd Street\u003cbr>\nIsleton, CA 95641\u003cbr>\n(916) 777-6666 or (916) 777-6806\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?ie=UTF8&q=map+302+2nd+Street,+isleton+california&fb=1&split=1&gl=us&cid=0,0,12326650582303194107&ei=24ZRSqmbKoeeswOd1vCqDQ&z=16&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_shells.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish shells\" title=\"crawfish shells\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5099\">\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "One of my favorite culinary mash-ups of recent years is the Vietnamese-Chinese-Cajun crawfish boil served with rice or garlic noodles. Following the arc of families moving from Vietnam to New Orleans to Southern California to, finally, San Jose and San Francisco, mud bugs have taken a garlicky turn and shown up, of all places, in Little Saigon's across the country.",
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"description": "One of my favorite culinary mash-ups of recent years is the Vietnamese-Chinese-Cajun crawfish boil served with rice or garlic noodles. Following the arc of families moving from Vietnam to New Orleans to Southern California to, finally, San Jose and San Francisco, mud bugs have taken a garlicky turn and shown up, of all places, in Little Saigon's across the country.",
"title": "Red Crawfish | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_bag.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish_bag\" title=\"crawfish_bag\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5095\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my favorite culinary mash-ups of recent years is the Vietnamese-Chinese-Cajun crawfish boil served with rice or garlic noodles. Following the arc of families moving from Vietnam to New Orleans to Southern California to, finally, San Jose and San Francisco, mud bugs have taken a garlicky turn and shown up, of all places, in Little Saigon's across the country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://redcrawfishsf.com/\">Red Crawfish\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> in San Francisco's Tenderloin is the one closest and dearest to me, as I head over that way anytime I'm craving familiar, comforting flavors. Boiled crawfish is a new tradition among my peeps, but it's one that I'm very happy to adopt, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eating here is a dress-down, messy affair that requires friends with absolutely no pretensions about food. The red, steaming, spicy crawfish come out from the kitchen in pails and are plopped down on the paper-topped table inside plastic bags, rather than piled right on the table, to hold in all that the thick, rich broth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_fries.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish fries\" title=\"crawfish fries\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5096\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love very spicy food and found that the medium was just fine for me. If you're hungry and a bit of a glutton, you could eat two pounds of crawfish with nothing else, but it's definitely hard to resist popular side orders like batter-fried sweet potatoes, buttery garlic noodles, buttery garlic toast, or just plain rice. You can also order potatoes and corn on the cob, and they'll throw them right in with the crawfish. If you don't \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xT9mkqpfwlQ&feature=related\">\u003cstrong>suck the heads\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (and the purists among us would insist that you do), you should at least order some garlic noodles or a bowl of rice for soaking up all the juicy goodness that spurts out of each one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are other entrees on \u003ca href=\"http://redcrawfishsf.com/menu.html\">\u003cstrong>the Red Crawfish's menu\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> -- the usual suspects of Vietnamese fare dominates over the Cajun influence -- but I haven't yet strayed far from the namesake of the restaurant. The huge bowl of spicy seafood soup is definitely worth sharing, while next on my list is one of my favorite dishes, bun rieu, seafood and tomato-tinged broth served over rice noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_soup.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish soup\" title=\"crawfish soup\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5101\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the DIY folks, there's also plenty of local crawfish harvested from the Sacramento Delta and from California's rice fields. Although the \u003ca href=\"http://www.crawdadfestival.org/\">\u003cstrong>Isleton Crawdad Festival\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> was canceled last month, another victim of the recession, you can still pick up live mud bugs (more for the rest of us!) from Bob's Bait Shop a.k.a. \u003ca href=\"http://themasterbaiter.tripod.com/\">\u003cstrong>The Master Baiter\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. Located near the Sacramento Delta and the premier sources of live bait in the area, the shop also provides local crawfish for cooks picky about freshness. Be sure to call in advance, especially if you need more than 15 pounds. Check also with large Asian supermarkets near you, especially \u003ca href=\"http://www.99ranch.com/StoreLocator.asp?Store=All\">\u003cstrong>99 Ranch Market\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, where crawfish can often be found crawling around live in the tanks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those of us who have no shame will even ask the server at Red Crawfish to leave all the shells on the table so that, at the end of the meal, we can bag them up, spices and all, to make a very tasty stock back at home. Add some \u003ca href=\"http://hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Make-the-Cajun-Trinity\">\u003cstrong>Cajun trinity\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, some dark roux, stir in a little heavy cream and lots of dry sherry, pull out a blender and a mesh strainer -- and you have a pot of mighty tasty soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://redcrawfishsf.com/\">RED CRAWFISH\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n611 Larkin Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94109\u003cbr>\n(415) 771-1388\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=red+crawfish&sll=37.784808,-122.417092&sspn=0.008488,0.006899&ie=UTF8&z=17&iwloc=A\">\u003cstrong>Map\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://themasterbaiter.tripod.com/\">BOB'S BAIT SHOP\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n302 2nd Street\u003cbr>\nIsleton, CA 95641\u003cbr>\n(916) 777-6666 or (916) 777-6806\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?ie=UTF8&q=map+302+2nd+Street,+isleton+california&fb=1&split=1&gl=us&cid=0,0,12326650582303194107&ei=24ZRSqmbKoeeswOd1vCqDQ&z=16&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/crawfish_shells.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish shells\" title=\"crawfish shells\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5099\">\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "First Look at Donato Enoteca",
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"content": "\u003cp>If you stepped into \u003ca href=\"http://www.donatoenoteca.com/\">Donato Enoteca\u003c/a> in Redwood City on opening night, you might have thought you were in Italy. It seemed just about every Italian in the Bay Area was there. Not only that, as a guest of honor, in attendance was the chef's mother, who flew in from Italy on a whim. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The space feels a bit like three or four restaurants in one. In the front is a casual and inviting space facing the open kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/frontdiningroom.jpg\" alt=\"front dining room\" title=\"front dining room\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4992\">\u003cbr>\nThe middle section is across from the bar and is a bit more chic. After all, \"enoteca\" means wine bar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the far end is the most formal Wine Cellar dining room. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/winecellarroom.jpg\" alt=\"wine cellar room\" title=\"wine cellar room\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4993\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All along the outside of the restaurant is outdoor seating. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/alfresco.jpg\" alt=\"al fresco\" title=\"al fresco\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4994\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Donato Scotti, a native of Bergamo, Italy, envisioned Donato Enoteca, after years working at well-known Italian restaurants in Italy and the US. His food is the sort to make any Italian happy, there was plenty of stuffed pasta, risotto and pizza to go with endless glasses of Prosecco. While not specializing in a particular region, I suspect the food will often reflect the cuisine of Lombardy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/chefdonato.jpg\" alt=\"chef donato\" title=\"chef donato\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4997\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the tastiest dishes of the night were creamy risotto and braised wild boar served on crostini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/risotto.jpg\" alt=\"risotto\" title=\"risotto\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4996\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clearly the chef has skills beyond cooking just the dishes of his own home turf, in particular, the seafood dishes including some grilled shrimp and calamari were succulent and delectable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/calamari.jpg\" alt=\"calamari\" title=\"calamari\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4995\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, the dish I will be most eager to try when I return will be the Costoletta alla Milanese, a thin, crisp breaded veal cutlet that is a speciality of the region and a favorite dish of mine. The Bay Area can always use another great Italian restaurant and if opening night was any indication, Donato Enoteca is well on it's way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here is the recipe for one of Donato Enoteca's signature dishes:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Insalata Biete e Fave\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4 \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nChioggia and Golden beets 2 each medium sized\u003cbr>\n6oz fresh peeled & poached fava beans\u003cbr>\n1.5 oz wild organic arugula\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil\u003cbr>\n1 stem rosemary\u003cbr>\n2 glasses dry white wine (Pinot Grigio preferred)\u003cbr>\n1 Tablespoon Chianti vinegar (or red wine vinegar)\u003cbr>\n1 ounce Pecorino fresco or goat cheese\u003cbr>\n1 clove garlic\u003cbr>\nSalt & pepper \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Method:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPlace the beets in a high-edged baking pan. Pour the dry white wine over the beets and add the smashed garlic clove, chopped rosemary and a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Cover with aluminum and bake 20 minutes at 400 degrees. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove aluminum and finish baking until done (poke with toothpick, should come out dry and easy). Set to cool until warm approximately 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once cooled, gently peel skin from beets and cut beets into segments. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prepare vinaigrette dressing by whisking 1 tablespoon Chianti Vinegar with a sprinkle of salt then 3 tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toss segmented beets and fava beans with dressing after gently place on bed of arugula topping with a choice of cheese. Lightly drizzle with Extra Virgin Olive Oil and ground pepper.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "If you stepped into \u003ca href=\"http://www.donatoenoteca.com/\">Donato Enoteca\u003c/a> in Redwood City on opening night, you might have thought you were in Italy. It seemed just about every Italian in the Bay Area was there. Not only that, as a guest of honor, in attendance was the chef's mother, who flew in from Italy on a whim. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>If you stepped into \u003ca href=\"http://www.donatoenoteca.com/\">Donato Enoteca\u003c/a> in Redwood City on opening night, you might have thought you were in Italy. It seemed just about every Italian in the Bay Area was there. Not only that, as a guest of honor, in attendance was the chef's mother, who flew in from Italy on a whim. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The space feels a bit like three or four restaurants in one. In the front is a casual and inviting space facing the open kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/frontdiningroom.jpg\" alt=\"front dining room\" title=\"front dining room\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4992\">\u003cbr>\nThe middle section is across from the bar and is a bit more chic. After all, \"enoteca\" means wine bar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the far end is the most formal Wine Cellar dining room. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/winecellarroom.jpg\" alt=\"wine cellar room\" title=\"wine cellar room\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4993\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All along the outside of the restaurant is outdoor seating. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/alfresco.jpg\" alt=\"al fresco\" title=\"al fresco\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4994\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Donato Scotti, a native of Bergamo, Italy, envisioned Donato Enoteca, after years working at well-known Italian restaurants in Italy and the US. His food is the sort to make any Italian happy, there was plenty of stuffed pasta, risotto and pizza to go with endless glasses of Prosecco. While not specializing in a particular region, I suspect the food will often reflect the cuisine of Lombardy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/chefdonato.jpg\" alt=\"chef donato\" title=\"chef donato\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4997\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the tastiest dishes of the night were creamy risotto and braised wild boar served on crostini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/risotto.jpg\" alt=\"risotto\" title=\"risotto\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4996\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clearly the chef has skills beyond cooking just the dishes of his own home turf, in particular, the seafood dishes including some grilled shrimp and calamari were succulent and delectable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/calamari.jpg\" alt=\"calamari\" title=\"calamari\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-4995\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, the dish I will be most eager to try when I return will be the Costoletta alla Milanese, a thin, crisp breaded veal cutlet that is a speciality of the region and a favorite dish of mine. The Bay Area can always use another great Italian restaurant and if opening night was any indication, Donato Enoteca is well on it's way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here is the recipe for one of Donato Enoteca's signature dishes:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Insalata Biete e Fave\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4 \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nChioggia and Golden beets 2 each medium sized\u003cbr>\n6oz fresh peeled & poached fava beans\u003cbr>\n1.5 oz wild organic arugula\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil\u003cbr>\n1 stem rosemary\u003cbr>\n2 glasses dry white wine (Pinot Grigio preferred)\u003cbr>\n1 Tablespoon Chianti vinegar (or red wine vinegar)\u003cbr>\n1 ounce Pecorino fresco or goat cheese\u003cbr>\n1 clove garlic\u003cbr>\nSalt & pepper \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Method:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPlace the beets in a high-edged baking pan. Pour the dry white wine over the beets and add the smashed garlic clove, chopped rosemary and a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Cover with aluminum and bake 20 minutes at 400 degrees. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove aluminum and finish baking until done (poke with toothpick, should come out dry and easy). Set to cool until warm approximately 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once cooled, gently peel skin from beets and cut beets into segments. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prepare vinaigrette dressing by whisking 1 tablespoon Chianti Vinegar with a sprinkle of salt then 3 tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toss segmented beets and fava beans with dressing after gently place on bed of arugula topping with a choice of cheese. Lightly drizzle with Extra Virgin Olive Oil and ground pepper.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Oola la Souffle Mondays",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola_souffle.jpg\" alt=\"Vahlrona Chocolate Souffle, Oola\" title=\"Vahlrona Chocolate Souffle, Oola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4784\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vahlrona Chocolate Souffle, Oola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There is nothing like good food, good wine and a bad girl.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So says the fine print on the menu at \u003ca href=\"http://www.oola-sf.com/\">Oola\u003c/a>. It sure does set the tone, and on a Monday night at that. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola-couple.jpg\" alt=\"Monday date night at Oola\" title=\"Monday date night at Oola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4786\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Monday date night at Oola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The strategic lighting, exposed brick, and soaring-ceilings make you feel a little mysterious, a little daring, a little come-hither. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So while we're being naughty, let's start with dessert first. Our \u003cstrong>Vahlrona Chocolate Souffle\u003c/strong> served with a Chambord ice cream sauce, fresh berries, and a cute little puff of meringue was an absolute treat. \u003cstrong>Pastry chef Alicia Montalvo\u003c/strong> has a good thing going here. Our souffle was everything I wanted it to be. Light, airy, rich, and downright sexy. Montalvo is planning on featuring a new souffle special every Monday, only on Mondays. I'm already looking forward to finding out what creative concoctions she has up her sleeve. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola_oysters.jpg\" alt=\"Hama Hama Oysters, Oola\" title=\"Hama Hama Oysters, Oola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4782\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hama Hama Oysters, Oola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From one aphrodisiac to another, bring on the oysters. Oola had \u003cstrong>Hama Hamas\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>Marins\u003c/strong> on the menu, both served on the half shell with a mignonette and cocktail sauce on the side. We preferred the hama hamas which had a more buttery texture and cleaner, fresh sea taste. Mmm, I could eat a whole pirate chest of good oysters. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola_shortribs.jpg\" alt=\"Baby Back Ribs, Oola\" title=\"Baby Back Ribs, Oola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4783\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Baby Back Ribs, Oola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you've never tasted \u003cstrong>Chef Ola Fendert’s\u003c/strong> famous \u003cstrong>Baby Back Ribs\u003c/strong>, you must. Glazed in a soy sauce, cilantro, ginger sauce, they are the perfect flavor and texture. Eat them with your hands and lick the tangy, salty, sweet, stickiness off your fingers. The outer layer is beautifully caramelized and slightly charred, while the inner bites are falling-off-the-bone tender. The red cabbage-apple slaw on the side provides a nice fresh crunch and a touch of mellow creaminess. They dutifully perform their supporting role in this highly delicious act. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola_foie-gras-ravioli.jpg\" alt=\"Foie gras and chicken ravioli, Oola\" title=\"Foie gras and chicken ravioli, Oola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4781\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Foie gras and chicken ravioli, Oola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For my main, I went with the \u003cstrong>Foie Gras and Chicken Ravioli\u003c/strong> served in a roasted chicken and truffle broth. The ravioli had me at foie gras. When the dish arrived at the table, I was momentarily intoxicated by the unmistakable earthy, pungent, woodsy aroma of black truffle. The al dente pasta had great chew and flavor, and the foie gras/chicken filling was meaty and full-flavored, but texture wise, I wish it was more velvety, molten-foie gras-like, and less meat-like. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola_tomato-risotto.jpg\" alt=\"“Farmer’s Market Special” Bruins Farms Heirloom Tomato Risotto\" title=\"“Farmer’s Market Special” Bruins Farms Heirloom Tomato Risotto\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4785\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\"Farmer’s Market Special\" Bruins Farms Heirloom Tomato Risotto\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"Farmer’s Market Special,\" part of Oola's new summer menu dedicated to showcasing seasonal, local-sourced organic ingredients, was an \u003cstrong>Heirloom Tomato Risotto\u003c/strong> made with chunks of heirloom tomatoes, stewed cherry tomatoes that burst in my mouth, and oven-dried tomatoes that added a touch of smokiness. The combination made for a complex and bright sweetness. The risotto was topped with a creamy, mild goat cheese, and seasoned with fragrant lavender – the perfect complementary accents. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(In a way this dish reminded me of a way fancier version of what I used to eat as a child. Surprisingly, for a period in my life, I was a picky eater, and the only way my parents could get me to eat rice was if it was doused in ketchup. OK, you may or may not think less of me now. What's done is done.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Parenthetical aside, Oola may just have what it takes to make Monday the new date night. Nothing like a souffle and some footsie to take the edge off a new week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.oola-sf.com%20\">Oola Restaurant & Bar\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n860 Folsom Street\u003cbr>\n(between 4th St & 5th St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107\u003cbr>\n(415) 995-2061 \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola_souffle.jpg\" alt=\"Vahlrona Chocolate Souffle, Oola\" title=\"Vahlrona Chocolate Souffle, Oola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4784\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vahlrona Chocolate Souffle, Oola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There is nothing like good food, good wine and a bad girl.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So says the fine print on the menu at \u003ca href=\"http://www.oola-sf.com/\">Oola\u003c/a>. It sure does set the tone, and on a Monday night at that. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola-couple.jpg\" alt=\"Monday date night at Oola\" title=\"Monday date night at Oola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4786\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Monday date night at Oola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The strategic lighting, exposed brick, and soaring-ceilings make you feel a little mysterious, a little daring, a little come-hither. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So while we're being naughty, let's start with dessert first. Our \u003cstrong>Vahlrona Chocolate Souffle\u003c/strong> served with a Chambord ice cream sauce, fresh berries, and a cute little puff of meringue was an absolute treat. \u003cstrong>Pastry chef Alicia Montalvo\u003c/strong> has a good thing going here. Our souffle was everything I wanted it to be. Light, airy, rich, and downright sexy. Montalvo is planning on featuring a new souffle special every Monday, only on Mondays. I'm already looking forward to finding out what creative concoctions she has up her sleeve. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola_oysters.jpg\" alt=\"Hama Hama Oysters, Oola\" title=\"Hama Hama Oysters, Oola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4782\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hama Hama Oysters, Oola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From one aphrodisiac to another, bring on the oysters. Oola had \u003cstrong>Hama Hamas\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>Marins\u003c/strong> on the menu, both served on the half shell with a mignonette and cocktail sauce on the side. We preferred the hama hamas which had a more buttery texture and cleaner, fresh sea taste. Mmm, I could eat a whole pirate chest of good oysters. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola_shortribs.jpg\" alt=\"Baby Back Ribs, Oola\" title=\"Baby Back Ribs, Oola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4783\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Baby Back Ribs, Oola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you've never tasted \u003cstrong>Chef Ola Fendert’s\u003c/strong> famous \u003cstrong>Baby Back Ribs\u003c/strong>, you must. Glazed in a soy sauce, cilantro, ginger sauce, they are the perfect flavor and texture. Eat them with your hands and lick the tangy, salty, sweet, stickiness off your fingers. The outer layer is beautifully caramelized and slightly charred, while the inner bites are falling-off-the-bone tender. The red cabbage-apple slaw on the side provides a nice fresh crunch and a touch of mellow creaminess. They dutifully perform their supporting role in this highly delicious act. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola_foie-gras-ravioli.jpg\" alt=\"Foie gras and chicken ravioli, Oola\" title=\"Foie gras and chicken ravioli, Oola\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4781\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Foie gras and chicken ravioli, Oola\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For my main, I went with the \u003cstrong>Foie Gras and Chicken Ravioli\u003c/strong> served in a roasted chicken and truffle broth. The ravioli had me at foie gras. When the dish arrived at the table, I was momentarily intoxicated by the unmistakable earthy, pungent, woodsy aroma of black truffle. The al dente pasta had great chew and flavor, and the foie gras/chicken filling was meaty and full-flavored, but texture wise, I wish it was more velvety, molten-foie gras-like, and less meat-like. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/oola_tomato-risotto.jpg\" alt=\"“Farmer’s Market Special” Bruins Farms Heirloom Tomato Risotto\" title=\"“Farmer’s Market Special” Bruins Farms Heirloom Tomato Risotto\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4785\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\"Farmer’s Market Special\" Bruins Farms Heirloom Tomato Risotto\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"Farmer’s Market Special,\" part of Oola's new summer menu dedicated to showcasing seasonal, local-sourced organic ingredients, was an \u003cstrong>Heirloom Tomato Risotto\u003c/strong> made with chunks of heirloom tomatoes, stewed cherry tomatoes that burst in my mouth, and oven-dried tomatoes that added a touch of smokiness. The combination made for a complex and bright sweetness. The risotto was topped with a creamy, mild goat cheese, and seasoned with fragrant lavender – the perfect complementary accents. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(In a way this dish reminded me of a way fancier version of what I used to eat as a child. Surprisingly, for a period in my life, I was a picky eater, and the only way my parents could get me to eat rice was if it was doused in ketchup. OK, you may or may not think less of me now. What's done is done.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Parenthetical aside, Oola may just have what it takes to make Monday the new date night. Nothing like a souffle and some footsie to take the edge off a new week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.oola-sf.com%20\">Oola Restaurant & Bar\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n860 Folsom Street\u003cbr>\n(between 4th St & 5th St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107\u003cbr>\n(415) 995-2061 \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Feeling Feverish for Fever-Tree Ginger Beer",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ginger-beer.jpg\" alt=\"ginger beer\" title=\"ginger beer\" width=\"228\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-4397\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I really only have one requirement for ginger beer. I have to feel it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.grubreport.com/blueplatespecial/darkandstormy.html\">To wit:\u003c/a> \"...the ginger beer has to sting, burn, and fire up the back of your throat. You have to feel it in your nose and down your gullet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I found such a ginger beer in Boston -- made by Goya -- and we used it in all our Black Gosling Dark and Stormys. It was spicy, opaque perfection. Once we moved out here and couldn't find hide nor hair of Goya, I quested for the perfect ginger beer. Nothing served. Not Bundaberg, not Blenheim, not anything you can possibly name. Believe me. I've tried them. ALL of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Andronico's British food section, I finally found a ginger beer made by Belvoir, and it was good. It burned my nose and tingled my throat, and I was so happy with that sought-after sensation that I ignored the slight tinge of chlorine in the taste that became decidedly pronounced the more I drank.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I met Tim Warilow of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fever-tree.com/\">Fever-Tree\u003c/a> to sample his newest flavors, I pestered him about ginger beer. Fever-Tree, I argued, was the ideal company to make my favorite type of ginger beer. (Because it's all about me, right?) Tim just smiled and talked up the merits of their ginger ale. (And,\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/05/17/fever-tree-revisited-ginger-ale/\"> as I've noted before\u003c/a>, he ain't just whistling dixie on that one. Fever-Tree makes a killer ginger ale.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However, a year later, Fever-Tree is now making ginger beer. I got two precious sample bottles in the mail and chilled them both immediately. One I drank as soon as it was cold, but the other is in safekeeping for another month. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order to best appreciate it, I sipped it neat and not as a mixer. I've come to realize that the best mixers are the ones that can be fully enjoyed without alcohol or other things tarting it up. Fever-Tree's ginger beer is perfection. With each luscious swallow, I feel it trace a satisfyingly fiery path up my nose and down my throat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the flavor? Well, it was just ginger. I'm not denigrating the flavor with my \"just,\" there, I'm elevating it. That's the flavor, \"just ginger,\" which is as it should be. There was no chlorine aftertaste, no overt sweetness detracting from what ended up being pure ginger in liquid form.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fever-Tree's ginger beer mixes two kinds of ginger: hot Nigerian ginger and fresh green Ecuadorian ginger. Just like all their other products, Fever-Tree's ginger beer is all natural, which explains the slightly cloudy appearance. For me, that cloudy, opaque look is key when layering up that most perfect of New England summer sips, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.imbibemagazine.com/Recipe-Dark-and-Stormy\">Dark and Stormy\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, right -- guess what that reserved sample bottle is for? That's right. As soon as I'm allowed, post-delivery, that cold little bottle is going onto my deck and into my first decent Dark and Stormy in years.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "I really only have one requirement for ginger beer. I have to feel it.\r\n\r\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.grubreport.com/blueplatespecial/darkandstormy.html\">To wit:\u003c/a> \"...the ginger beer has to sting, burn, and fire up the back of your throat. You have to feel it in your nose and down your gullet.\"",
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"description": "I really only have one requirement for ginger beer. I have to feel it.\r\n\r\nTo wit: "...the ginger beer has to sting, burn, and fire up the back of your throat. You have to feel it in your nose and down your gullet."",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ginger-beer.jpg\" alt=\"ginger beer\" title=\"ginger beer\" width=\"228\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-4397\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I really only have one requirement for ginger beer. I have to feel it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.grubreport.com/blueplatespecial/darkandstormy.html\">To wit:\u003c/a> \"...the ginger beer has to sting, burn, and fire up the back of your throat. You have to feel it in your nose and down your gullet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I found such a ginger beer in Boston -- made by Goya -- and we used it in all our Black Gosling Dark and Stormys. It was spicy, opaque perfection. Once we moved out here and couldn't find hide nor hair of Goya, I quested for the perfect ginger beer. Nothing served. Not Bundaberg, not Blenheim, not anything you can possibly name. Believe me. I've tried them. ALL of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Andronico's British food section, I finally found a ginger beer made by Belvoir, and it was good. It burned my nose and tingled my throat, and I was so happy with that sought-after sensation that I ignored the slight tinge of chlorine in the taste that became decidedly pronounced the more I drank.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I met Tim Warilow of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fever-tree.com/\">Fever-Tree\u003c/a> to sample his newest flavors, I pestered him about ginger beer. Fever-Tree, I argued, was the ideal company to make my favorite type of ginger beer. (Because it's all about me, right?) Tim just smiled and talked up the merits of their ginger ale. (And,\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/05/17/fever-tree-revisited-ginger-ale/\"> as I've noted before\u003c/a>, he ain't just whistling dixie on that one. Fever-Tree makes a killer ginger ale.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>However, a year later, Fever-Tree is now making ginger beer. I got two precious sample bottles in the mail and chilled them both immediately. One I drank as soon as it was cold, but the other is in safekeeping for another month. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order to best appreciate it, I sipped it neat and not as a mixer. I've come to realize that the best mixers are the ones that can be fully enjoyed without alcohol or other things tarting it up. Fever-Tree's ginger beer is perfection. With each luscious swallow, I feel it trace a satisfyingly fiery path up my nose and down my throat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the flavor? Well, it was just ginger. I'm not denigrating the flavor with my \"just,\" there, I'm elevating it. That's the flavor, \"just ginger,\" which is as it should be. There was no chlorine aftertaste, no overt sweetness detracting from what ended up being pure ginger in liquid form.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fever-Tree's ginger beer mixes two kinds of ginger: hot Nigerian ginger and fresh green Ecuadorian ginger. Just like all their other products, Fever-Tree's ginger beer is all natural, which explains the slightly cloudy appearance. For me, that cloudy, opaque look is key when layering up that most perfect of New England summer sips, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.imbibemagazine.com/Recipe-Dark-and-Stormy\">Dark and Stormy\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, right -- guess what that reserved sample bottle is for? That's right. As soon as I'm allowed, post-delivery, that cold little bottle is going onto my deck and into my first decent Dark and Stormy in years.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Yats: New Orleans Po' Boys",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/05/crawfish-po-boy.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish-po-boy\" title=\"crawfish-po-boy\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-3597\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Crawfish Po' Boy with Remoulade Sauce (mind you, that's just a half order)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I first visited New Orleans as a young and adventurous 21-year-old (with nine other young and adventurous 21-year-olds), it was under the incredible hospitality of the generous Miss Dawn. Like a good southern hostess, Miss Dawn kept us well-fed, full of hearty, delicious, filling sustenance that would provide the proper base for a night of revelry. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two memorable meals from our time there was the epic crawfish boil she set up our first night in, and the constant supply of po' boy makings she kept on hand for 1 pm breakfasts...5 pm snacks...and 4 am nightcaps. Piles of roast beef, fresh French bread, and dressed to the nines. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as I saw the menu at \u003ca href=\"http://www.whereyats.com/\">Yats\u003c/a>, I was brought back to sultry nights of sucking crawfish out of the shell and feasting on the ubiquitous po' boy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/05/yats-order-window.jpg\" alt=\"yats-order-window\" title=\"yats-order-window\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-3599\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Yats, San Francisco\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In case you're wondering about this order window with the sign \"Yats\" pointing to it, well, that's it. \u003cstrong>Yats\u003c/strong> is actually, brilliantly, located inside \u003cstrong>Jack's Club\u003c/strong>, an homage to the divey friendly bars of New Orleans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/05/nola-fries.jpg\" alt=\"nola-fries\" title=\"nola-fries\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-3596\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>NOLA Fries: thick-cut steak fries showered in parmesan cheese, salt and pepper\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The humble establishment makes good use of its well-loved deep fryer. Cue specimen A: \u003cstrong>NOLA Fries\u003c/strong>. Thick, golden, wedges of starchy goodness, dusted in a snowfall of parmesan cheese, salt and pepper. These huge steak fries are crispy on the outside, nice and soft on the inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You may be overwhelmed when you see the lengthy selection of Famous Po' Boys on the menu. I don't mean to be bossy, but \u003cstrong>get the Crawfish with Remoulade, and ask for extra sauce!\u003c/strong> Succulent bits of crawfish meat, coated in a crunchy cornmeal crust, and stuffed inside a loaf of fresh French bread with a soft airy center, and crispy flaky crust. And, you should probably get the whole foot-long. Trust me. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/05/mac-n-cheese.jpg\" alt=\"mac-n-cheese\" title=\"mac-n-cheese\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-3598\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mac-n-Cheese\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You will also want to complement your sandwich lovin' with a side of \u003cstrong>Mac-n-Cheese\u003c/strong>. Quite possibly the best in SF. Do I have any challengers? This mac-n-cheese is no joke. Creamy and rich with a little coarse-grained mustard thrown in. Pure comfort food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yats\u003c/strong> takes bar food to a whole new level. The only down side is that the hours are a little tricky for a weekday visit unless you work in the neighborhood. Otherwise, your Saturday afternoon may have just found a new best friend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the way, if it's an authentic crawfish boil you seek, \u003cstrong>Yats\u003c/strong> is celebrating its One Year Anniversary with a \u003cstrong>Crawfish Boil\u003c/strong> this \u003cstrong>Saturday, May 16th\u003c/strong>, noon - 5 pm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.whereyats.com/\">Yats\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n(Inside Jack's Club)\u003cbr>\n2545 24th St\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&q=jack's+club+san+francisco&ie=UTF8&ll=37.776956,-122.44297&spn=0.216276,0.309334&z=12&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n415-282-8906\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Open Mon-Thurs, 11 am - 4 pm; Fri, 11 am - 8 pm; Sat, 11 am - 6 pm\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/05/crawfish-po-boy.jpg\" alt=\"crawfish-po-boy\" title=\"crawfish-po-boy\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-3597\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Crawfish Po' Boy with Remoulade Sauce (mind you, that's just a half order)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I first visited New Orleans as a young and adventurous 21-year-old (with nine other young and adventurous 21-year-olds), it was under the incredible hospitality of the generous Miss Dawn. Like a good southern hostess, Miss Dawn kept us well-fed, full of hearty, delicious, filling sustenance that would provide the proper base for a night of revelry. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two memorable meals from our time there was the epic crawfish boil she set up our first night in, and the constant supply of po' boy makings she kept on hand for 1 pm breakfasts...5 pm snacks...and 4 am nightcaps. Piles of roast beef, fresh French bread, and dressed to the nines. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as I saw the menu at \u003ca href=\"http://www.whereyats.com/\">Yats\u003c/a>, I was brought back to sultry nights of sucking crawfish out of the shell and feasting on the ubiquitous po' boy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/05/yats-order-window.jpg\" alt=\"yats-order-window\" title=\"yats-order-window\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-3599\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Yats, San Francisco\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In case you're wondering about this order window with the sign \"Yats\" pointing to it, well, that's it. \u003cstrong>Yats\u003c/strong> is actually, brilliantly, located inside \u003cstrong>Jack's Club\u003c/strong>, an homage to the divey friendly bars of New Orleans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/05/nola-fries.jpg\" alt=\"nola-fries\" title=\"nola-fries\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-3596\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>NOLA Fries: thick-cut steak fries showered in parmesan cheese, salt and pepper\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The humble establishment makes good use of its well-loved deep fryer. Cue specimen A: \u003cstrong>NOLA Fries\u003c/strong>. Thick, golden, wedges of starchy goodness, dusted in a snowfall of parmesan cheese, salt and pepper. These huge steak fries are crispy on the outside, nice and soft on the inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You may be overwhelmed when you see the lengthy selection of Famous Po' Boys on the menu. I don't mean to be bossy, but \u003cstrong>get the Crawfish with Remoulade, and ask for extra sauce!\u003c/strong> Succulent bits of crawfish meat, coated in a crunchy cornmeal crust, and stuffed inside a loaf of fresh French bread with a soft airy center, and crispy flaky crust. And, you should probably get the whole foot-long. Trust me. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/05/mac-n-cheese.jpg\" alt=\"mac-n-cheese\" title=\"mac-n-cheese\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-3598\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mac-n-Cheese\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You will also want to complement your sandwich lovin' with a side of \u003cstrong>Mac-n-Cheese\u003c/strong>. Quite possibly the best in SF. Do I have any challengers? This mac-n-cheese is no joke. Creamy and rich with a little coarse-grained mustard thrown in. Pure comfort food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yats\u003c/strong> takes bar food to a whole new level. The only down side is that the hours are a little tricky for a weekday visit unless you work in the neighborhood. Otherwise, your Saturday afternoon may have just found a new best friend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the way, if it's an authentic crawfish boil you seek, \u003cstrong>Yats\u003c/strong> is celebrating its One Year Anniversary with a \u003cstrong>Crawfish Boil\u003c/strong> this \u003cstrong>Saturday, May 16th\u003c/strong>, noon - 5 pm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.whereyats.com/\">Yats\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n(Inside Jack's Club)\u003cbr>\n2545 24th St\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&q=jack's+club+san+francisco&ie=UTF8&ll=37.776956,-122.44297&spn=0.216276,0.309334&z=12&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n415-282-8906\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Open Mon-Thurs, 11 am - 4 pm; Fri, 11 am - 8 pm; Sat, 11 am - 6 pm\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Café Claude, J'taime ",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/04/cafe-claude-002.jpg\" alt=\"cafe-claude-002\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-3168\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Café Claude, San Francisco\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tucked away in a hidden alley amongst financial district lunch spots, Café Claude is a delightful breath of fresh air. I half expected my feet to touch cobblestone as I made my way past the charming red trellis and climbing ivy partitioning this Parisian gem from bustling Kearny Street. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoy the sunshine and dine al fresco, or sit inside in the romantic, pleasantly glowing ambiance. Either option will make for a great date. And if you order well, you will definitely ooh la la your way home. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/04/cafe-claude-015b.jpg\" alt=\"cafe-claude-015b\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-3169\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Paté Plate: Sauternes Mousse, Rillettes du Perigord, Truffle Mousse (from left to right)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Café Claude's selection of patés makes it difficult to choose just one. You can opt to be a glutton like me and go with the Paté Plate of three, or you can be kinder to your cholesterol level (although, what's the fun in that?) and make the hard choice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our table's favorite was the Sauternes Mousse, creamy all-natural goose liver marinated in sauternes wine. Light and silky, the texture was ethereal, and the flavor was full-bodied and rich with a touch of sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Second favorite was the Truffle Mousse, made with all-natural petaluma chicken liver, truffles and cepes (wild mushrooms) marinated in sherry. This is a great choice for paté virgins, with less funk than the other patés made with goose and duck. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The third paté was the Rillettes du Perigord, shredded all-natural duck meat and pork meat, seasoned with duck fat and cooked confit style. Tasty, but not as luxurious of a mouthfeel as the previous two. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/04/cafe-claude-024.jpg\" alt=\"cafe-claude-024\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-3167\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Escargots en Croute\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For starters we had the Escargots en Croute and Coquilles Saint Jacques. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my first memories dining out in a fancy restaurant is of my mom ordering escargots (ewww snails are in there?!). I got over the ew factor quickly as I discovered that escargots meant pools of fragrant garlic, butter, and parsley. Added bonus, they're served in fun dishes with holes perfect for stuffing pieces of crusty French bread in and soaking up all the buttery goodness. The escargots at Café Claude came in an aromatic sauce, but no flavor could be detected from the snails themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had high hopes for the Coquilles Saint Jacques. With scallops, shrimp, mussels, parmesan, and béchamel sauce on the bill, I had wild visions of creamy seafood decadence. Sadly, my expectations fell short, this was the weak link of the meal. Next time I'll opt to start with the legendary French onion soup, or either of phenomenal sounding tartars (tuna or steak). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/04/cafe-claude-022.jpg\" alt=\"cafe-claude-022\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-3170\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ahi\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The standout of the night was the seared Ahi tuna, served on a bed of onion and bacon confit, soy green peppercorn sauce, and plenty of lemon zest. Intriguing, appetizing, perfect. The tuna was cooked just right, pink and rare in the center. The well caramelized onion and smoky bacon infused the dish with a savory sweet bouquet. The green peppercorn gave a little bite and kick, and the shower of lemon zest was the crowning touch. This dish was well-balanced, creative, and executed flawlessly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I imagine any other entrée would pale in comparison to the phenomenal Ahi, so it may be with prejudice that I judge the Lasagne harshly. In concept it sounded like a lovely spring dish with fresh egg pasta loaded with veggies like roasted eggplant, zucchini, spinach, and tomato. But it was mediocre. Lesson learned, don't order Italian at a French restaurant? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After I nearly licked my plate of Ahi, I couldn't help but notice the Paleron Sauce Poivre Vert being served at the table next to mine. Gorgeous flat-iron steak served in a cognac, green peppercorn sauce, with golden potato gratin on the side. Sorry, dining neighbor, if I was staring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dessert, another hit and another miss. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Moelleux au Chocolat, flourless chocolate cake with crème anglaise, was a little cloying and nothing spectacular. The Tarte Tatin on the other hand, très bon. A superb mix of flakiness soaked in burnt caramel, tender apple, and whipped cream. Worth saving room for. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All in all, Café Claude may be like a fickle love affair -- hot, cold, hot, cold. But this meal did end on a hot note, and there's no question that a second date is in order. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"www.cafeclaude.com\">Café Claude\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n7 Claude Lane\u003cbr>\n(between Bush St & Sutter St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94108\u003cbr>\n415-392-3505 \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Tucked away in a hidden alley amongst financial district lunch spots, Café Claude is a delightful breath of fresh air. I half expected my feet to touch cobblestone as I made my way past the charming red trellis and climbing ivy partitioning this Parisian gem from bustling Kearny Street.",
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"description": "Tucked away in a hidden alley amongst financial district lunch spots, Café Claude is a delightful breath of fresh air. I half expected my feet to touch cobblestone as I made my way past the charming red trellis and climbing ivy partitioning this Parisian gem from bustling Kearny Street.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/04/cafe-claude-002.jpg\" alt=\"cafe-claude-002\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-3168\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Café Claude, San Francisco\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tucked away in a hidden alley amongst financial district lunch spots, Café Claude is a delightful breath of fresh air. I half expected my feet to touch cobblestone as I made my way past the charming red trellis and climbing ivy partitioning this Parisian gem from bustling Kearny Street. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoy the sunshine and dine al fresco, or sit inside in the romantic, pleasantly glowing ambiance. Either option will make for a great date. And if you order well, you will definitely ooh la la your way home. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/04/cafe-claude-015b.jpg\" alt=\"cafe-claude-015b\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-3169\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Paté Plate: Sauternes Mousse, Rillettes du Perigord, Truffle Mousse (from left to right)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Café Claude's selection of patés makes it difficult to choose just one. You can opt to be a glutton like me and go with the Paté Plate of three, or you can be kinder to your cholesterol level (although, what's the fun in that?) and make the hard choice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our table's favorite was the Sauternes Mousse, creamy all-natural goose liver marinated in sauternes wine. Light and silky, the texture was ethereal, and the flavor was full-bodied and rich with a touch of sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Second favorite was the Truffle Mousse, made with all-natural petaluma chicken liver, truffles and cepes (wild mushrooms) marinated in sherry. This is a great choice for paté virgins, with less funk than the other patés made with goose and duck. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The third paté was the Rillettes du Perigord, shredded all-natural duck meat and pork meat, seasoned with duck fat and cooked confit style. Tasty, but not as luxurious of a mouthfeel as the previous two. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/04/cafe-claude-024.jpg\" alt=\"cafe-claude-024\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-3167\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Escargots en Croute\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For starters we had the Escargots en Croute and Coquilles Saint Jacques. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my first memories dining out in a fancy restaurant is of my mom ordering escargots (ewww snails are in there?!). I got over the ew factor quickly as I discovered that escargots meant pools of fragrant garlic, butter, and parsley. Added bonus, they're served in fun dishes with holes perfect for stuffing pieces of crusty French bread in and soaking up all the buttery goodness. The escargots at Café Claude came in an aromatic sauce, but no flavor could be detected from the snails themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had high hopes for the Coquilles Saint Jacques. With scallops, shrimp, mussels, parmesan, and béchamel sauce on the bill, I had wild visions of creamy seafood decadence. Sadly, my expectations fell short, this was the weak link of the meal. Next time I'll opt to start with the legendary French onion soup, or either of phenomenal sounding tartars (tuna or steak). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/04/cafe-claude-022.jpg\" alt=\"cafe-claude-022\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-3170\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ahi\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The standout of the night was the seared Ahi tuna, served on a bed of onion and bacon confit, soy green peppercorn sauce, and plenty of lemon zest. Intriguing, appetizing, perfect. The tuna was cooked just right, pink and rare in the center. The well caramelized onion and smoky bacon infused the dish with a savory sweet bouquet. The green peppercorn gave a little bite and kick, and the shower of lemon zest was the crowning touch. This dish was well-balanced, creative, and executed flawlessly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I imagine any other entrée would pale in comparison to the phenomenal Ahi, so it may be with prejudice that I judge the Lasagne harshly. In concept it sounded like a lovely spring dish with fresh egg pasta loaded with veggies like roasted eggplant, zucchini, spinach, and tomato. But it was mediocre. Lesson learned, don't order Italian at a French restaurant? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After I nearly licked my plate of Ahi, I couldn't help but notice the Paleron Sauce Poivre Vert being served at the table next to mine. Gorgeous flat-iron steak served in a cognac, green peppercorn sauce, with golden potato gratin on the side. Sorry, dining neighbor, if I was staring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dessert, another hit and another miss. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Moelleux au Chocolat, flourless chocolate cake with crème anglaise, was a little cloying and nothing spectacular. The Tarte Tatin on the other hand, très bon. A superb mix of flakiness soaked in burnt caramel, tender apple, and whipped cream. Worth saving room for. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All in all, Café Claude may be like a fickle love affair -- hot, cold, hot, cold. But this meal did end on a hot note, and there's no question that a second date is in order. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"www.cafeclaude.com\">Café Claude\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n7 Claude Lane\u003cbr>\n(between Bush St & Sutter St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94108\u003cbr>\n415-392-3505 \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"marketplace": {
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"planet-money": {
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"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
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"politicalbreakdown": {
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"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"pri-the-world": {
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"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 2pm-3pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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},
"reveal": {
"id": "reveal",
"title": "Reveal",
"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.revealnews.org/episodes/",
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},
"rightnowish": {
"id": "rightnowish",
"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 16
},
"link": "/podcasts/rightnowish",
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},
"science-friday": {
"id": "science-friday",
"title": "Science Friday",
"info": "Science Friday is a weekly science talk show, broadcast live over public radio stations nationwide. Each week, the show focuses on science topics that are in the news and tries to bring an educated, balanced discussion to bear on the scientific issues at hand. Panels of expert guests join host Ira Flatow, a veteran science journalist, to discuss science and to take questions from listeners during the call-in portion of the program.",
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},
"snap-judgment": {
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