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"disqusTitle": "Review: The Tablehopper's Guide to Dining and Drinking in San Francisco",
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"content": "\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Ame has a new chef,\" my girlfriend just told me. \"You should review it soon.\"\u003cbr>\n\"Where did you hear that?\" I asked.\u003cbr>\n\"Tablehopper,\" she said.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/tablehopper-marcia-gagliardi.jpg\" alt=\"Tablehopper Marcia Gagliardi Photo by Andrea Scher-Superhero Designs\" title=\"Tablehopper Marcia Gagliardi Photo by Andrea Scher-Superhero Designs\" width=\"213\" height=\"161\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-11228\">The routine unfolds at least once a week. A day later, she dropped another morsel from Marcia Gagliardi's \u003ca href=\"http://www.tablehopper.com/\">weekly e-column\u003c/a> in an email with a link to Heart's enticing brunch menu. \"Duck scrapple -- sounds good,\" she wrote. Whenever she has food-related news to share, nine times out of ten, Gagliardi's the source. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I suspect that she is nearly everyone's source, and I wonder why her column has been so successful. She supplies news, reviews, and gossip in one hefty dose every seven days, a slow stream of information by today's media standards; she can't begin to keep up with local food blogs able to post fresh content every few minutes. Likewise, the ubiquity and influence of her weekly missives can't be attributed to content. After all, most food blogs tell you the same stuff much of the time -- who is in, who is out, what is new, and what is hot around the region's food and drink scene. As tidbits of interest get recycled, posted to social networking sites, and otherwise tossed around, slightly varied versions of the same p.r.-planted stories end up peppering the Internet. While she writes entertaining reviews and amuses with her \u003ca href=\"http://www.nypost.com/pagesix\">Page 6\u003c/a>-like lines on where Hollywood stars and celebrity chefs end up grubbing when they breeze through town, Gagliardi's main strengths are her personality as conveyed through her writing and her organizational prowess. Her columns come to your email inbox, and you read them like you would scan through an email. They're written in an informal, conversational, fun, flirty, personal sort of way. She tells you where she's been -- perhaps a vacation, to Spain or India -- and how she's been -- happy, busy, or sick, maybe -- and lets you know what tasty treats she's uncovered in the past week. She arranges the information she provides clearly and effectively. As you scroll down, each regular section comes tagged with a cute little header. There's a consistent look, appealing feel, and pure readability to it, and that helps define her brand as much as the way she writes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580081282/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/tablehopper-bookcover.jpg\" alt=\"The Tablehopper's Guide to Dining and Drinking in San Francisco- Find the Right Spot for Every Occasion\" title=\"The Tablehopper's Guide to Dining and Drinking in San Francisco- Find the Right Spot for Every Occasion\" width=\"200\" height=\"280\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-11225\">\u003c/a> This week, her brand gets a little bigger and somewhat bolder with the release of her debut book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580081282/kqedorg-20\">\"The Tablehopper's Guide to Dining and Drinking in San Francisco: Find the Right Spot for Every Occasion.\"\u003c/a> Because there are so many online forums for restaurants and bar recommendations -- like Yelp, Chowhound, and the aforementioned cabal of blogs -- the idea of physically publishing such a book (particularly one so focused in scope) feels like a retro endeavor. Furthermore, as Gagliardi herself lays out in the book, the restaurant business is highly changeable, especially in the midst of a wicked recession. Chefs get new gigs. Places shutter, and others spring up. Pop-up restaurants and mobile food carts are tenuous in the first place. Over the course of a year, the city's food-scape shifts a lot, which is where that weekly e-column comes in handy. The book is a stand-alone summer of 2009 snapshot of one person's favorite places to eat and booze in San Francisco. Will it be useful, even pertinent, in two or three years?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most popular guidebooks are published by companies with recognizable names internationally trusted for reliability and the rigor with which they dissect a restaurant scene. The brands are expressions of tradition and experience, not personality. Fittingly, their books typically organize the included establishments by neighborhood and cuisine. Gagliardi's tome takes a different path to the glove-box, re-imagining the guidebook form as a funny little pocket concierge that speaks with an enthusiastic, almost antagonistic version of the lively cackle audible in her weekly e-columns. She comes off like a knowing, slightly loud friend reciting a manic monologue. She suggests restaurants based on occasion, not cuisine, effectively organizing her book around why people eat at restaurants -- to celebrate, to romance, to get away, to do business. In town for a convention? Try \u003ca href=\"http://www.waterbarsf.com/\">Waterbar\u003c/a>, she advises, noting its \"power booths facing the bay\" and $20 Bloody Marys. Out on the town with a \"Cool (or Bad or Gay) Uncle?\" Take him to \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicroasthousesf.com/\">EPIC Roasthouse\u003c/a> for \"a variety of options for meaty indulgence, like marrow bones, a porterhouse pork chop, prime rib, and five styles of potatoes,\" she says, with the authority of someone who has almost certainly done so. She also lists foods folks commonly seek out -- burritos, falafel, dumplings, and chilaquiles -- and includes her favorites. The suggestions appear to spring from the life she has led, and, appropriately, she makes the book personal in every sense, advising readers of eateries catering to customers with special dietary needs, diners with small children, and industry professionals. She tells you where she drank (\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/dalva-san-francisco\">Dalva\u003c/a>) after she lost her last full-time job. She curates business lunches, reconciliatory dinners, quiet nights alone, and tense summits with the in-laws. She wants you to take the information personally, and use it accordingly. In this sense, the book might suit locals more than tourists, new arrivals planning to stay for a while and carve out food-happy routines amongst the city's hills, valleys, parks, and palms. Likewise, framed as such -- a stomach-centric road map for future memories -- it might have a longer life span than your average \u003ca href=\"http://www.zagat.com/\">Zagat\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In assessing this book, you have to talk about Gagliardi's distinctive voice, and style. While those are elements infrequently crucial to the function of conventional guidebooks, here they strike me as inseparable from the content. Gagliardi isn't just peddling her recommendations; she's selling herself, a larger-than-life swashbuckling socialite persona a reader is supposed to find charming, funny, intriguing, and insightful. She dares her audience to flip through the pages for amusement, not just for the practical purpose of finding a good place to eat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you take the bait, you might find that persona hard to swallow in hearty helpings. She affects different tones for different topics, channeling a high-fiving keg-tapping dude-yelping frat guy in \"For the Fellas\" and then a shoe-crazed \u003ca href=\"http://www.hbo.com/sex-and-the-city/index.html\">Sex in the City\u003c/a>-aping dame in \"For the Ladies.\" In the world she presents -- surely, hopefully, somewhat facetiously -- dudes like tearing up red meat and chasing cougars (\"rawr\"), and women enjoy tittering about shoes they saw on sale at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bloomingdales.com/\">Bloomies\u003c/a>. In her preamble to the sub-section \"Ladies Who Lunch,\" Gagliardi gets painfully fabulous: \"'Ooooh, love the bag.' 'Your hair looks great.' 'He did not say that! What a pig.' 'Another bottle, please.' All that and more. Girl, let's taaaaaalk!\" She goes on to recommend \u003ca href=\"http://www.cafeclaude.com/\">Cafe Claude\u003c/a> for hot \"French-accented garcons,\" apparently \"one of the most important components of a ladies' lunch.\" Her constant semi-creative enlistment of foreign lingo in entries for Spanish, Mexican, and Italian restaurants is another tedious shtick. She's \"an amiga\" of the al pastor pork at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/taqueria-cancun-san-francisco-2\">Taqueria Cancun\u003c/a>. Valencia St. cocktails-and-'za spot \u003ca href=\"http://www.berettasf.com/\">Beretta\u003c/a> has taken off like a \"casa on fire.\" Velvet Cantina's bartenders are \"caliente.\" She's a freewheeling Berlitz gone haywire. She also routinely swings for the fences with punch-lines flimsier than half-frozen phyllo. Of \u003ca href=\"http://www.terzosf.com/\">Terzo\u003c/a>, Gagliardi writes: \"[J]ust in case you're a bad girl, the crispy onions are delicious. . .the look is postmodern, rustic hip, just like your sexy boots.\" She ruminates on \"the newest Hayes Valley (excuse me, 'Zen Valley') location\" of \u003ca href=\"http://samovarlife.com/\">Samovar Tea Lounge\u003c/a>. I read that and wonder if I should OMG or just LOL. Assuming Gagliardi is a hip, hip lady (like \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3D1PM2pQ7E\">Martha Washington\u003c/a>) merely having a good time, the fat layer of formaggio must be an act, a role she is playing, a joke consistently and thoroughly embodied in the interest of toying with guidebook decorum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead of getting a lift from such antics, this book truly succeeds in a strictly practical sense. As someone who loves to eat and earns a little scratch writing about food, I think I know a thing or two about the city's dining scene. Gagliardi knows a lot about the subject, certainly more than I do, and in poring over the pages, my excitement peaks, not when I absorb left-field suggestions I don't anticipate, but when I realize that Gagliardi and I agree about a lot of stuff. We like the same chilaquiles -- vastly different yet equally satisfying variations on the theme at \u003ca href=\"http://losjarritos.com/\">Los Jarritos \u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/pastores-san-francisco\">Pastores\u003c/a>. We both like our burritos toasted on the outside like they're done at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-castillito-san-francisco-2\">Taqueria Castillito \u003c/a> near the Safeway on Market and Church. She flips for the spread of dips and pita at \u003ca href=\"http://www.oldjerusalemsf.com/\">Old Jerusalem\u003c/a>, and so do I. She recommends \u003ca href=\"http://www.laciccia.com/\">La Ciccia\u003c/a>'s incomparable fregola pasta, and so do I. She likes to get drunk at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.lonepalmbar.com/\">Lone Palm\u003c/a>, and so do I. These morsels -- our independent shared experiences -- must reveal more about her character than the bad jokes and witticisms flatter than tap water. Regardless of how much fun she had writing it, her book -- clearly designed to be fun -- isn't something I want to curl up with. With tips like these, it doesn't have to be.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Instead of getting a lift from such antics, this book truly succeeds in a strictly practical sense. As someone who loves to eat and earns a little scratch writing about food, I think I know a thing or two about the city's dining scene. Gagliardi knows a lot about the subject, certainly more than I do, and in poring over the pages, my excitement peaks, not when I absorb left-field suggestions I don't anticipate, but when I realize that Gagliardi and I agree about a lot of stuff. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Ame has a new chef,\" my girlfriend just told me. \"You should review it soon.\"\u003cbr>\n\"Where did you hear that?\" I asked.\u003cbr>\n\"Tablehopper,\" she said.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/tablehopper-marcia-gagliardi.jpg\" alt=\"Tablehopper Marcia Gagliardi Photo by Andrea Scher-Superhero Designs\" title=\"Tablehopper Marcia Gagliardi Photo by Andrea Scher-Superhero Designs\" width=\"213\" height=\"161\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-11228\">The routine unfolds at least once a week. A day later, she dropped another morsel from Marcia Gagliardi's \u003ca href=\"http://www.tablehopper.com/\">weekly e-column\u003c/a> in an email with a link to Heart's enticing brunch menu. \"Duck scrapple -- sounds good,\" she wrote. Whenever she has food-related news to share, nine times out of ten, Gagliardi's the source. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I suspect that she is nearly everyone's source, and I wonder why her column has been so successful. She supplies news, reviews, and gossip in one hefty dose every seven days, a slow stream of information by today's media standards; she can't begin to keep up with local food blogs able to post fresh content every few minutes. Likewise, the ubiquity and influence of her weekly missives can't be attributed to content. After all, most food blogs tell you the same stuff much of the time -- who is in, who is out, what is new, and what is hot around the region's food and drink scene. As tidbits of interest get recycled, posted to social networking sites, and otherwise tossed around, slightly varied versions of the same p.r.-planted stories end up peppering the Internet. While she writes entertaining reviews and amuses with her \u003ca href=\"http://www.nypost.com/pagesix\">Page 6\u003c/a>-like lines on where Hollywood stars and celebrity chefs end up grubbing when they breeze through town, Gagliardi's main strengths are her personality as conveyed through her writing and her organizational prowess. Her columns come to your email inbox, and you read them like you would scan through an email. They're written in an informal, conversational, fun, flirty, personal sort of way. She tells you where she's been -- perhaps a vacation, to Spain or India -- and how she's been -- happy, busy, or sick, maybe -- and lets you know what tasty treats she's uncovered in the past week. She arranges the information she provides clearly and effectively. As you scroll down, each regular section comes tagged with a cute little header. There's a consistent look, appealing feel, and pure readability to it, and that helps define her brand as much as the way she writes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580081282/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/tablehopper-bookcover.jpg\" alt=\"The Tablehopper's Guide to Dining and Drinking in San Francisco- Find the Right Spot for Every Occasion\" title=\"The Tablehopper's Guide to Dining and Drinking in San Francisco- Find the Right Spot for Every Occasion\" width=\"200\" height=\"280\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-11225\">\u003c/a> This week, her brand gets a little bigger and somewhat bolder with the release of her debut book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580081282/kqedorg-20\">\"The Tablehopper's Guide to Dining and Drinking in San Francisco: Find the Right Spot for Every Occasion.\"\u003c/a> Because there are so many online forums for restaurants and bar recommendations -- like Yelp, Chowhound, and the aforementioned cabal of blogs -- the idea of physically publishing such a book (particularly one so focused in scope) feels like a retro endeavor. Furthermore, as Gagliardi herself lays out in the book, the restaurant business is highly changeable, especially in the midst of a wicked recession. Chefs get new gigs. Places shutter, and others spring up. Pop-up restaurants and mobile food carts are tenuous in the first place. Over the course of a year, the city's food-scape shifts a lot, which is where that weekly e-column comes in handy. The book is a stand-alone summer of 2009 snapshot of one person's favorite places to eat and booze in San Francisco. Will it be useful, even pertinent, in two or three years?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most popular guidebooks are published by companies with recognizable names internationally trusted for reliability and the rigor with which they dissect a restaurant scene. The brands are expressions of tradition and experience, not personality. Fittingly, their books typically organize the included establishments by neighborhood and cuisine. Gagliardi's tome takes a different path to the glove-box, re-imagining the guidebook form as a funny little pocket concierge that speaks with an enthusiastic, almost antagonistic version of the lively cackle audible in her weekly e-columns. She comes off like a knowing, slightly loud friend reciting a manic monologue. She suggests restaurants based on occasion, not cuisine, effectively organizing her book around why people eat at restaurants -- to celebrate, to romance, to get away, to do business. In town for a convention? Try \u003ca href=\"http://www.waterbarsf.com/\">Waterbar\u003c/a>, she advises, noting its \"power booths facing the bay\" and $20 Bloody Marys. Out on the town with a \"Cool (or Bad or Gay) Uncle?\" Take him to \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicroasthousesf.com/\">EPIC Roasthouse\u003c/a> for \"a variety of options for meaty indulgence, like marrow bones, a porterhouse pork chop, prime rib, and five styles of potatoes,\" she says, with the authority of someone who has almost certainly done so. She also lists foods folks commonly seek out -- burritos, falafel, dumplings, and chilaquiles -- and includes her favorites. The suggestions appear to spring from the life she has led, and, appropriately, she makes the book personal in every sense, advising readers of eateries catering to customers with special dietary needs, diners with small children, and industry professionals. She tells you where she drank (\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/dalva-san-francisco\">Dalva\u003c/a>) after she lost her last full-time job. She curates business lunches, reconciliatory dinners, quiet nights alone, and tense summits with the in-laws. She wants you to take the information personally, and use it accordingly. In this sense, the book might suit locals more than tourists, new arrivals planning to stay for a while and carve out food-happy routines amongst the city's hills, valleys, parks, and palms. Likewise, framed as such -- a stomach-centric road map for future memories -- it might have a longer life span than your average \u003ca href=\"http://www.zagat.com/\">Zagat\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In assessing this book, you have to talk about Gagliardi's distinctive voice, and style. While those are elements infrequently crucial to the function of conventional guidebooks, here they strike me as inseparable from the content. Gagliardi isn't just peddling her recommendations; she's selling herself, a larger-than-life swashbuckling socialite persona a reader is supposed to find charming, funny, intriguing, and insightful. She dares her audience to flip through the pages for amusement, not just for the practical purpose of finding a good place to eat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you take the bait, you might find that persona hard to swallow in hearty helpings. She affects different tones for different topics, channeling a high-fiving keg-tapping dude-yelping frat guy in \"For the Fellas\" and then a shoe-crazed \u003ca href=\"http://www.hbo.com/sex-and-the-city/index.html\">Sex in the City\u003c/a>-aping dame in \"For the Ladies.\" In the world she presents -- surely, hopefully, somewhat facetiously -- dudes like tearing up red meat and chasing cougars (\"rawr\"), and women enjoy tittering about shoes they saw on sale at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bloomingdales.com/\">Bloomies\u003c/a>. In her preamble to the sub-section \"Ladies Who Lunch,\" Gagliardi gets painfully fabulous: \"'Ooooh, love the bag.' 'Your hair looks great.' 'He did not say that! What a pig.' 'Another bottle, please.' All that and more. Girl, let's taaaaaalk!\" She goes on to recommend \u003ca href=\"http://www.cafeclaude.com/\">Cafe Claude\u003c/a> for hot \"French-accented garcons,\" apparently \"one of the most important components of a ladies' lunch.\" Her constant semi-creative enlistment of foreign lingo in entries for Spanish, Mexican, and Italian restaurants is another tedious shtick. She's \"an amiga\" of the al pastor pork at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/taqueria-cancun-san-francisco-2\">Taqueria Cancun\u003c/a>. Valencia St. cocktails-and-'za spot \u003ca href=\"http://www.berettasf.com/\">Beretta\u003c/a> has taken off like a \"casa on fire.\" Velvet Cantina's bartenders are \"caliente.\" She's a freewheeling Berlitz gone haywire. She also routinely swings for the fences with punch-lines flimsier than half-frozen phyllo. Of \u003ca href=\"http://www.terzosf.com/\">Terzo\u003c/a>, Gagliardi writes: \"[J]ust in case you're a bad girl, the crispy onions are delicious. . .the look is postmodern, rustic hip, just like your sexy boots.\" She ruminates on \"the newest Hayes Valley (excuse me, 'Zen Valley') location\" of \u003ca href=\"http://samovarlife.com/\">Samovar Tea Lounge\u003c/a>. I read that and wonder if I should OMG or just LOL. Assuming Gagliardi is a hip, hip lady (like \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3D1PM2pQ7E\">Martha Washington\u003c/a>) merely having a good time, the fat layer of formaggio must be an act, a role she is playing, a joke consistently and thoroughly embodied in the interest of toying with guidebook decorum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead of getting a lift from such antics, this book truly succeeds in a strictly practical sense. As someone who loves to eat and earns a little scratch writing about food, I think I know a thing or two about the city's dining scene. Gagliardi knows a lot about the subject, certainly more than I do, and in poring over the pages, my excitement peaks, not when I absorb left-field suggestions I don't anticipate, but when I realize that Gagliardi and I agree about a lot of stuff. We like the same chilaquiles -- vastly different yet equally satisfying variations on the theme at \u003ca href=\"http://losjarritos.com/\">Los Jarritos \u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/pastores-san-francisco\">Pastores\u003c/a>. We both like our burritos toasted on the outside like they're done at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-castillito-san-francisco-2\">Taqueria Castillito \u003c/a> near the Safeway on Market and Church. She flips for the spread of dips and pita at \u003ca href=\"http://www.oldjerusalemsf.com/\">Old Jerusalem\u003c/a>, and so do I. She recommends \u003ca href=\"http://www.laciccia.com/\">La Ciccia\u003c/a>'s incomparable fregola pasta, and so do I. She likes to get drunk at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.lonepalmbar.com/\">Lone Palm\u003c/a>, and so do I. These morsels -- our independent shared experiences -- must reveal more about her character than the bad jokes and witticisms flatter than tap water. Regardless of how much fun she had writing it, her book -- clearly designed to be fun -- isn't something I want to curl up with. With tips like these, it doesn't have to be.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Weezy's: In Marin, Size Matters",
"title": "Weezy's: In Marin, Size Matters",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/lunch.jpg\" alt=\"lunch at Weezys Grass Fed Shed\" title=\"lunch at Weezys Grass Fed Shed\" width=\"500\" height=\"370\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11201\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Trying everything at \u003ca href=\"http://www.weezys-shed.com/home.htm\">Weezy’s Grass Fed Shed\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm a little late to the game, but I'm finally getting into the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Best-Food-Writing-Holly-Hughes/dp/0738213691\">Best Food Writing 2009\u003c/a> anthology. It's only been sitting on my nightstand for a few months. If you haven't checked it out yet, there are some great, short pieces on everything from translating modern Indian cooking to an exploration of illegal, raw-milk cheese. Our of all of the work I've read so far (Disclaimer: I'm still not all that far into it), Tim Hayward's short piece, \"Too Much of a Mouthful\" caught my attention. In it, he explores the current popularity of oversized portions--particularly in the U.K.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Interesting enough, I was finishing Hayward's piece as I sat waiting for a friend on the patio of \u003ca href=\"http://www.weezys-shed.com/home.htm\">Weezy's Grass Fed Shed\u003c/a> in San Rafael. I'd heard about this place right when they opened from a friend who worked in the area. She boasted that they served \u003ca href=\"http://www.pratherranch.com/\">Prather Ranch\u003c/a> beef burgers for a mere $3.00. I argued with her about the impossibility of that statement, and she assured me that it was true but that they make it all work because the burgers are small.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Great. Perfect. I hate how sluggish I feel after a big burger, so I quickly find a fellow burger lover and we agree to meet for lunch and check it out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Weezys.jpg\" alt=\"Weezys Grass Fed Shed-small outdoor patio\" title=\"Weezys Grass Fed Shed-small outdoor patio\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11198\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The shed’s small outdoor patio\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now when my friend mentioned that the burgers are small, she wasn't messing around. Think somewhere in between slider and very small burger. Tim Hayward, the writer I just spoke of, would be proud. In his piece, he closes by commenting on the irony of careful food preparation in the U.K. combined with the obscene, difficult-to eat portions:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>Any cook worth his Maldon salt, be he three-star chef, sandwich slinger or pie-maker, will have thought long and hard about every aspect of a dish he's created. By the time he's given it a final wipe with the rag and sent it out to delight me he will have used all of his knowledge, skill, experience and training to ensure that it is properly sourced and prepped; perfectly cooked, seasoned, rested, and sauced. Is it really too much to ask then, that it should also fit in my mouth?\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Clearly, Louise Clow-Birkenseer (\"Weezy') would answer with a resounding \"No.\" Not only are her burgers made with the finest ingredients, they’re also a very civilized and appropriate size. You can swing by and grab one as a late afternoon snack or, as my friend Creg and I decided to do, order a whole bunch (or, let's be honest: pretty much everything on the menu). At that size and that price, why not?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/contiki.jpg\" alt=\"The Contiki burger\" title=\"The Contiki burger\" width=\"500\" height=\"536\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11200\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Contiki burger: a little bit sweet, a little bit savory.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before I report back on our favorites, a little background: Weezy's started as many great things do: when someone notices a lack of something in their neighborhood or town and decides to fill it. Weezy lives in the sleepy part of San Rafael known as Terra Linda--quite residential with very few good dining options. Weezy missed a good burger. She wanted to walk and pick one up. She'd always wanted to add to the community in some way and felt that really good quality food should be available to everyone at a fair price. Enough said. The shed was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Creg and I visited on a quiet and unusually sunny weekday and found Weezy whistling on a stool in the back of the shed forming small meat patties. High school kids were working through the line with smiles and enthusiasm. It all felt very organized but completely laid-back at the same time. For example, as we were hemming and hawing over what kind of fries to order (sweet potato or regular), the kids at the register encouraged us to go with both: \u003cem>We'll mix them up for you!\u003c/em> OK, sold. I overhear another customer debating between the limeade or the raspberry lemonade. The cashier's solution? \u003cem>It's so good if you mix them both! We do it all the time. Trust us, you'll love it!\u003c/em> I like this carefree, go-for-it attitude. Why take lunch too seriously, after all?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then as if the kids at the counter aren't excited enough, we go outside to enjoy our burgers and Weezy herself isn't far behind with her own lunch tray. She sits down next to us, soaking in the sun, chatting with customers and introducing herself, and literally \u003cem>oohing and ahhing\u003c/em> over her burger. From the sound of things, she's behind these little burgers 110%. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Creg and I tried the White Trash Burger (with American cheese, iceberg lettuce, and Thousand Island dressing), Burger in a Lettuce Cup, the B-rad (with bacon and Tillamook cheddar), the Contiki (with pineapple and Teriyaki sauce), and the Moo-Less Burger (homemade vegan patty with 20 different ingredients served on a bun with cream cheese and special sweet potato sauce).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/vegan.jpg\" alt=\"The Moo-Less Burger\" title=\"The Moo-Less Burger\" width=\"500\" height=\"370\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11202\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Moo-Less Burger\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each burger is right around $3.00 and weighs in at 1/8 of a pound unless you opt to do the \"Double Wide\" upgrade with is ¼ pound for an additional $.75. I have to say, I'll probably upgrade next time. It seems like a great deal. I expected to really love the White Trash burger, but there was something about the crispy bacon, juicy and perfectly cooked meat, and slightly sharp cheddar that made me grasp onto the B-rad and not let go. Sorry, Creg. I'll give you a bite next time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/b-rad.jpg\" alt=\"The b-rad burger\" title=\"The b-rad burger\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11199\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>I'll be back for this one: the b-rad burger\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So as the weather turns warmer, as you look to new spots to try, I'm all for taking Tim Hayward's implied thesis to heart--size matters. Something is lost in quality and in experience when you're presented with an entire pound of it. According her website, for Weezy \"it’s not just a job, it’s a lifestyle.\" I have to say--if I lived just a bit closer, I'd start to integrate Weezy's more into my own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.weezys-shed.com/home.htm\">Weezy's Grass Fed Shed\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n621 A Del Ganado (in the Scotty's Market Shopping Center)\u003cbr>\nSan Rafael, CA, 94903\u003cbr>\n(415) 479-7433\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Everyday 11am-8pm; for coffee and pastries (NEW) only 7am-11am\u003cbr>\nAlso, find them on \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Weezys-grass-fed-shed/203880141885\">Facebook\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"425\" height=\"350\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" marginheight=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" src=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Weezy%E2%80%99s+Grass+Fed+Shed+621+A+Del+Ganado,+San+Rafael,+CA+94903&sll=38.013432,-122.558997&sspn=0.011733,0.013819&g=621+A+Del+Ganado,+San+Rafael,+CA+94903&ie=UTF8&hq=Weezy%E2%80%99s+Grass+Fed+Shed&hnear=621+Del+Ganado+Rd,+San+Rafael,+CA+94903&ll=38.023213,-122.554893&spn=0.01131,0.013819&z=14&iwloc=A&cid=6851440200590099886&output=embed\">\u003c/iframe>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=embed&hl=en&geocode=&q=Weezy%E2%80%99s+Grass+Fed+Shed+621+A+Del+Ganado,+San+Rafael,+CA+94903&sll=38.013432,-122.558997&sspn=0.011733,0.013819&g=621+A+Del+Ganado,+San+Rafael,+CA+94903&ie=UTF8&hq=Weezy%E2%80%99s+Grass+Fed+Shed&hnear=621+Del+Ganado+Rd,+San+Rafael,+CA+94903&ll=38.023213,-122.554893&spn=0.01131,0.013819&z=14&iwloc=A&cid=6851440200590099886\">View Larger Map\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Interesting enough, I was finishing Hayward's piece as I sat waiting for a friend on the patio of Weezy's Grass Fed Shed in San Rafael. I'd heard about this place right when they opened from a friend who worked in the area. She boasted that they served Prather Ranch beef burgers for a mere $3.00. I argued with her about the impossibility of that statement, and she assured me that it was true but that they make it all work because the burgers are small.",
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"description": "Interesting enough, I was finishing Hayward's piece as I sat waiting for a friend on the patio of Weezy's Grass Fed Shed in San Rafael. I'd heard about this place right when they opened from a friend who worked in the area. She boasted that they served Prather Ranch beef burgers for a mere $3.00. I argued with her about the impossibility of that statement, and she assured me that it was true but that they make it all work because the burgers are small.",
"title": "Weezy's: In Marin, Size Matters | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/lunch.jpg\" alt=\"lunch at Weezys Grass Fed Shed\" title=\"lunch at Weezys Grass Fed Shed\" width=\"500\" height=\"370\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11201\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Trying everything at \u003ca href=\"http://www.weezys-shed.com/home.htm\">Weezy’s Grass Fed Shed\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm a little late to the game, but I'm finally getting into the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Best-Food-Writing-Holly-Hughes/dp/0738213691\">Best Food Writing 2009\u003c/a> anthology. It's only been sitting on my nightstand for a few months. If you haven't checked it out yet, there are some great, short pieces on everything from translating modern Indian cooking to an exploration of illegal, raw-milk cheese. Our of all of the work I've read so far (Disclaimer: I'm still not all that far into it), Tim Hayward's short piece, \"Too Much of a Mouthful\" caught my attention. In it, he explores the current popularity of oversized portions--particularly in the U.K.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Interesting enough, I was finishing Hayward's piece as I sat waiting for a friend on the patio of \u003ca href=\"http://www.weezys-shed.com/home.htm\">Weezy's Grass Fed Shed\u003c/a> in San Rafael. I'd heard about this place right when they opened from a friend who worked in the area. She boasted that they served \u003ca href=\"http://www.pratherranch.com/\">Prather Ranch\u003c/a> beef burgers for a mere $3.00. I argued with her about the impossibility of that statement, and she assured me that it was true but that they make it all work because the burgers are small.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Great. Perfect. I hate how sluggish I feel after a big burger, so I quickly find a fellow burger lover and we agree to meet for lunch and check it out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/Weezys.jpg\" alt=\"Weezys Grass Fed Shed-small outdoor patio\" title=\"Weezys Grass Fed Shed-small outdoor patio\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11198\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The shed’s small outdoor patio\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now when my friend mentioned that the burgers are small, she wasn't messing around. Think somewhere in between slider and very small burger. Tim Hayward, the writer I just spoke of, would be proud. In his piece, he closes by commenting on the irony of careful food preparation in the U.K. combined with the obscene, difficult-to eat portions:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>Any cook worth his Maldon salt, be he three-star chef, sandwich slinger or pie-maker, will have thought long and hard about every aspect of a dish he's created. By the time he's given it a final wipe with the rag and sent it out to delight me he will have used all of his knowledge, skill, experience and training to ensure that it is properly sourced and prepped; perfectly cooked, seasoned, rested, and sauced. Is it really too much to ask then, that it should also fit in my mouth?\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Clearly, Louise Clow-Birkenseer (\"Weezy') would answer with a resounding \"No.\" Not only are her burgers made with the finest ingredients, they’re also a very civilized and appropriate size. You can swing by and grab one as a late afternoon snack or, as my friend Creg and I decided to do, order a whole bunch (or, let's be honest: pretty much everything on the menu). At that size and that price, why not?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/contiki.jpg\" alt=\"The Contiki burger\" title=\"The Contiki burger\" width=\"500\" height=\"536\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11200\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Contiki burger: a little bit sweet, a little bit savory.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before I report back on our favorites, a little background: Weezy's started as many great things do: when someone notices a lack of something in their neighborhood or town and decides to fill it. Weezy lives in the sleepy part of San Rafael known as Terra Linda--quite residential with very few good dining options. Weezy missed a good burger. She wanted to walk and pick one up. She'd always wanted to add to the community in some way and felt that really good quality food should be available to everyone at a fair price. Enough said. The shed was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Creg and I visited on a quiet and unusually sunny weekday and found Weezy whistling on a stool in the back of the shed forming small meat patties. High school kids were working through the line with smiles and enthusiasm. It all felt very organized but completely laid-back at the same time. For example, as we were hemming and hawing over what kind of fries to order (sweet potato or regular), the kids at the register encouraged us to go with both: \u003cem>We'll mix them up for you!\u003c/em> OK, sold. I overhear another customer debating between the limeade or the raspberry lemonade. The cashier's solution? \u003cem>It's so good if you mix them both! We do it all the time. Trust us, you'll love it!\u003c/em> I like this carefree, go-for-it attitude. Why take lunch too seriously, after all?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then as if the kids at the counter aren't excited enough, we go outside to enjoy our burgers and Weezy herself isn't far behind with her own lunch tray. She sits down next to us, soaking in the sun, chatting with customers and introducing herself, and literally \u003cem>oohing and ahhing\u003c/em> over her burger. From the sound of things, she's behind these little burgers 110%. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Creg and I tried the White Trash Burger (with American cheese, iceberg lettuce, and Thousand Island dressing), Burger in a Lettuce Cup, the B-rad (with bacon and Tillamook cheddar), the Contiki (with pineapple and Teriyaki sauce), and the Moo-Less Burger (homemade vegan patty with 20 different ingredients served on a bun with cream cheese and special sweet potato sauce).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/vegan.jpg\" alt=\"The Moo-Less Burger\" title=\"The Moo-Less Burger\" width=\"500\" height=\"370\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11202\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Moo-Less Burger\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each burger is right around $3.00 and weighs in at 1/8 of a pound unless you opt to do the \"Double Wide\" upgrade with is ¼ pound for an additional $.75. I have to say, I'll probably upgrade next time. It seems like a great deal. I expected to really love the White Trash burger, but there was something about the crispy bacon, juicy and perfectly cooked meat, and slightly sharp cheddar that made me grasp onto the B-rad and not let go. Sorry, Creg. I'll give you a bite next time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/03/b-rad.jpg\" alt=\"The b-rad burger\" title=\"The b-rad burger\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11199\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>I'll be back for this one: the b-rad burger\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So as the weather turns warmer, as you look to new spots to try, I'm all for taking Tim Hayward's implied thesis to heart--size matters. Something is lost in quality and in experience when you're presented with an entire pound of it. According her website, for Weezy \"it’s not just a job, it’s a lifestyle.\" I have to say--if I lived just a bit closer, I'd start to integrate Weezy's more into my own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.weezys-shed.com/home.htm\">Weezy's Grass Fed Shed\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n621 A Del Ganado (in the Scotty's Market Shopping Center)\u003cbr>\nSan Rafael, CA, 94903\u003cbr>\n(415) 479-7433\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Everyday 11am-8pm; for coffee and pastries (NEW) only 7am-11am\u003cbr>\nAlso, find them on \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Weezys-grass-fed-shed/203880141885\">Facebook\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Marin Mondays at Picco",
"title": "Marin Mondays at Picco",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>The rain was pouring down in sheets, the streets smeared and shiny as licorice along Larkspur's main drag. You'd think that, on this chilly, wet Monday night, everyone would be at home pulling a pizza from the freezer and flipping through the Netflix stack, but up and down Magnolia Street, there's not a parking place to be found. By eight o'clock, nearly every table at \u003ca href=\"http://www.restaurantpicco.com/\">Picco\u003c/a> is full and happy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Welcome to Marin Mondays, chef-owner Bruce Hill's popular eat-local brainstorm. The concept is simple: each Monday, the restaurant offers a homey, five-course prix fixe menu showcasing local producers, for $30-$33 a person. (The restaurant's extensive regular menu is also available, and the Marin menu items can be sampled à la carte.) Think \u003ca href=\"http://www.adhocrestaurant.com/\">Ad Hoc\u003c/a> with a locavore twist, and so far, it's brought out big crowds every week, on a night that's typically a slow one in the restaurant biz. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This might be a tricky proposition in, say, Fargo, or Cleveland, but with the Pacific Ocean on one side, San Francisco Bay on the other, and the rich, rolling green fields, woods, and pastures of rural West Marin (plus oyster-friendly Tomales Bay) in between, Marin County is pretty much a year-round bounty of bliss for local-conscious eaters and producers alike. Fishermen, dairy ranchers, farmers, vintners, and foragers all work the land (and water) here, raising sheep, cows, goats, and chickens on grass, farming oysters in the bays, making cheese, distilling liqueurs, catching squid, growing greens, picking mushrooms, baking bread in wood-fired ovens, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, sourcing: not a problem. And the menu's once-a-week status gives Picco's cooks the chance to be micro-seasonal in their creativity as they come up with new recipes based on whatever cool stuff is available each week. As long as there's enough of it to feed one night's worth of customers, they can use it-- a great boon to the foragers and farmers with just a few acres of continually cycling crops. And the menu isn't strictly local-limited; there's coconut milk in the curry, candied ginger on the ice cream, sriracha hot sauce on the fish cakes. But flavorings aside, the bulk of the ingredients come from nearby, because even in the depths of winter, abundance reigns. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the menu is open to interpretation each week, instead of being locked down in the pristine, unadorned Cal-Med style, all sea salt and olive oil, that has become the de facto way of cooking local here. On the night we went, the inspiration was Thailand, with a side of Jersey & Buffalo. Or at least that's how we interpreted the appearance of sliders, chicken wings, and soft-serve ice cream between the squid salad and beef curry. To sip, there are two local libations, a Stubbs Estate organic chardonnay and a Shaken, Not Stirred cocktail made with house-infused elderflower liqueur and \u003ca href=\"http://www.squareonevodka.com\">Square One\u003c/a> cucumber vodka, made in Novato. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last Monday, in honor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfbeerweek.org/\">Beer Week\u003c/a>, there was beer from Marin Brew Company in every dish, from Hog Island manila clams steamed in Albion ale to a fritto misto battered with IPA, cheddar soup with pilsner and rye croutons, and a stout cake with Straus Dairy caramel ice cream. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But back to Thailand in Marin. We started with a light and lovely squid salad, tender and tangy and tangled with cubes of crunchy Asian pear and fresh herbs, alongside a puff of succulent miners' lettuce, that wonderful winter weed named for adding much-needed vitamins to many a Forty-Niner's salt pork-and-sourdough diet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/squid.jpg\" alt=\"squid salad\" title=\"squid salad\" width=\"504\" height=\"432\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10594\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up, a gloriously (but not excessively) greasy fish \"slider,\" White Castle meets Thai fish cake. Unlike the fish cakes in Thai restaurants, which are often bounceably rubbery, these were more like crab cakes, made with rock cod from Bolinas, gentle and just a little springy, lavished with crunchy County Line cabbage and Star Route Farm carrot slaw, dripping with sriracha-spiked mayo and paired with super-crunchy, extra-salty chiplets made from sunchoke curls. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/slider2.jpg\" alt=\"fish slider\" title=\"fish slider\" width=\"378\" height=\"504\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10593\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Superbowl-sublime chicken wings from Coastal Hill Farms followed, lacquered sticky-meaty mouthfuls, messy and wonderful. A thick puddle of seasoned Straus yogurt sauce and a mound of shredded celery root with baby watercress replaced the ranch dressing and celery sticks of sports-bar tradition. Dressing up lowbrow favorites doesn't always work (I'm still shaking my head over the dainty arugula-and-mandarin-orange salad served with the lobster roll at nearby Yankee Pier when they first opened—when, as every New Englander knows, a true lobster roll needs nothing but a bag of chips) but in this case, it's great. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/chicken.jpg\" alt=\"chicken wings\" title=\"chicken wings\" width=\"504\" height=\"432\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10590\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By this time, we're pretty happily fed. The main dish, a Mussaman beef and potato curry, looks a little skimpy lurking at the bottom of its big white bowls, but it's deceptive. Rich and coconut-sauced, dotted with translucent, almost fetal baby radishes, the Marin Sun braised short ribs fork tender and lush, it turns out to be all we need. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/main.jpg\" alt=\"Mussaman beef and potato curry\" title=\"Mussaman beef and potato curry\" width=\"504\" height=\"432\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10592\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All we're expecting for dessert is a bitty swirl of Picco's famous Straus Dairy soft-serve, what might fill a Chinese-restaurant teacup. Instead, we get a massive swirl towering above a cereal bowl, heavily crunched with candied ginger and pecan praline. Lovely, palate-cleansing, and crazily big. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then again, being graced with too much ice cream made from the milk of happy local cows? Way, way down on my list of Bad Things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/dessert.jpg\" alt=\"ice cream dessert\" title=\"ice cream dessert\" width=\"504\" height=\"432\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10591\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.restaurantpicco.com/index.html\">Picco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n320 Magnolia Ave.\u003cbr>\nLarkspur, California 94939\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=picco+320+Magnolia+Ave.+Larkspur,+California+94939&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=59.769082,55.546875&ie=UTF8&hq=picco&hnear=320+Magnolia+Ave,+Larkspur,+CA+94939&z=17&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n415.924.0300\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Larkspur-CA/Restaurant-Picco/136569578899?ref=mf&v=wall\">Picco on Facebook\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Photos by Debra St. John\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Couldn't get Valentine's Day reservations? Make up for it with Marin Mondays, Restaurant Picco's delectable weekly exploration of the edible bounty of Marin. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The rain was pouring down in sheets, the streets smeared and shiny as licorice along Larkspur's main drag. You'd think that, on this chilly, wet Monday night, everyone would be at home pulling a pizza from the freezer and flipping through the Netflix stack, but up and down Magnolia Street, there's not a parking place to be found. By eight o'clock, nearly every table at \u003ca href=\"http://www.restaurantpicco.com/\">Picco\u003c/a> is full and happy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Welcome to Marin Mondays, chef-owner Bruce Hill's popular eat-local brainstorm. The concept is simple: each Monday, the restaurant offers a homey, five-course prix fixe menu showcasing local producers, for $30-$33 a person. (The restaurant's extensive regular menu is also available, and the Marin menu items can be sampled à la carte.) Think \u003ca href=\"http://www.adhocrestaurant.com/\">Ad Hoc\u003c/a> with a locavore twist, and so far, it's brought out big crowds every week, on a night that's typically a slow one in the restaurant biz. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This might be a tricky proposition in, say, Fargo, or Cleveland, but with the Pacific Ocean on one side, San Francisco Bay on the other, and the rich, rolling green fields, woods, and pastures of rural West Marin (plus oyster-friendly Tomales Bay) in between, Marin County is pretty much a year-round bounty of bliss for local-conscious eaters and producers alike. Fishermen, dairy ranchers, farmers, vintners, and foragers all work the land (and water) here, raising sheep, cows, goats, and chickens on grass, farming oysters in the bays, making cheese, distilling liqueurs, catching squid, growing greens, picking mushrooms, baking bread in wood-fired ovens, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, sourcing: not a problem. And the menu's once-a-week status gives Picco's cooks the chance to be micro-seasonal in their creativity as they come up with new recipes based on whatever cool stuff is available each week. As long as there's enough of it to feed one night's worth of customers, they can use it-- a great boon to the foragers and farmers with just a few acres of continually cycling crops. And the menu isn't strictly local-limited; there's coconut milk in the curry, candied ginger on the ice cream, sriracha hot sauce on the fish cakes. But flavorings aside, the bulk of the ingredients come from nearby, because even in the depths of winter, abundance reigns. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the menu is open to interpretation each week, instead of being locked down in the pristine, unadorned Cal-Med style, all sea salt and olive oil, that has become the de facto way of cooking local here. On the night we went, the inspiration was Thailand, with a side of Jersey & Buffalo. Or at least that's how we interpreted the appearance of sliders, chicken wings, and soft-serve ice cream between the squid salad and beef curry. To sip, there are two local libations, a Stubbs Estate organic chardonnay and a Shaken, Not Stirred cocktail made with house-infused elderflower liqueur and \u003ca href=\"http://www.squareonevodka.com\">Square One\u003c/a> cucumber vodka, made in Novato. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last Monday, in honor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfbeerweek.org/\">Beer Week\u003c/a>, there was beer from Marin Brew Company in every dish, from Hog Island manila clams steamed in Albion ale to a fritto misto battered with IPA, cheddar soup with pilsner and rye croutons, and a stout cake with Straus Dairy caramel ice cream. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But back to Thailand in Marin. We started with a light and lovely squid salad, tender and tangy and tangled with cubes of crunchy Asian pear and fresh herbs, alongside a puff of succulent miners' lettuce, that wonderful winter weed named for adding much-needed vitamins to many a Forty-Niner's salt pork-and-sourdough diet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/squid.jpg\" alt=\"squid salad\" title=\"squid salad\" width=\"504\" height=\"432\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10594\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up, a gloriously (but not excessively) greasy fish \"slider,\" White Castle meets Thai fish cake. Unlike the fish cakes in Thai restaurants, which are often bounceably rubbery, these were more like crab cakes, made with rock cod from Bolinas, gentle and just a little springy, lavished with crunchy County Line cabbage and Star Route Farm carrot slaw, dripping with sriracha-spiked mayo and paired with super-crunchy, extra-salty chiplets made from sunchoke curls. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/slider2.jpg\" alt=\"fish slider\" title=\"fish slider\" width=\"378\" height=\"504\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10593\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Superbowl-sublime chicken wings from Coastal Hill Farms followed, lacquered sticky-meaty mouthfuls, messy and wonderful. A thick puddle of seasoned Straus yogurt sauce and a mound of shredded celery root with baby watercress replaced the ranch dressing and celery sticks of sports-bar tradition. Dressing up lowbrow favorites doesn't always work (I'm still shaking my head over the dainty arugula-and-mandarin-orange salad served with the lobster roll at nearby Yankee Pier when they first opened—when, as every New Englander knows, a true lobster roll needs nothing but a bag of chips) but in this case, it's great. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/chicken.jpg\" alt=\"chicken wings\" title=\"chicken wings\" width=\"504\" height=\"432\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10590\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By this time, we're pretty happily fed. The main dish, a Mussaman beef and potato curry, looks a little skimpy lurking at the bottom of its big white bowls, but it's deceptive. Rich and coconut-sauced, dotted with translucent, almost fetal baby radishes, the Marin Sun braised short ribs fork tender and lush, it turns out to be all we need. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/main.jpg\" alt=\"Mussaman beef and potato curry\" title=\"Mussaman beef and potato curry\" width=\"504\" height=\"432\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10592\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All we're expecting for dessert is a bitty swirl of Picco's famous Straus Dairy soft-serve, what might fill a Chinese-restaurant teacup. Instead, we get a massive swirl towering above a cereal bowl, heavily crunched with candied ginger and pecan praline. Lovely, palate-cleansing, and crazily big. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then again, being graced with too much ice cream made from the milk of happy local cows? Way, way down on my list of Bad Things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/dessert.jpg\" alt=\"ice cream dessert\" title=\"ice cream dessert\" width=\"504\" height=\"432\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10591\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.restaurantpicco.com/index.html\">Picco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n320 Magnolia Ave.\u003cbr>\nLarkspur, California 94939\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=picco+320+Magnolia+Ave.+Larkspur,+California+94939&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=59.769082,55.546875&ie=UTF8&hq=picco&hnear=320+Magnolia+Ave,+Larkspur,+CA+94939&z=17&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n415.924.0300\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Larkspur-CA/Restaurant-Picco/136569578899?ref=mf&v=wall\">Picco on Facebook\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Photos by Debra St. John\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Strong Coffee in the 'Hood",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/matchinghalflatte.jpg\" alt=\"Lattes at Matching Half Cafe\" title=\"Lattes at Matching Half Cafe\" width=\"500\" height=\"250\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10191\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Lattes at Matching Half Cafe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> So I moved to the city a few weeks ago. After enduring many sweaty hours of \u003cem>I can't imagine anything I'd rather be doing less\u003c/em>, I've vowed never to move out of my apartment for as long as I shall live. Yes, the size of the kitchen will take a little getting used to, and I may never have a grown-up dinner party. But moving is just no fun. Getting the couch up the four flights of stairs was an unspeakable feat. That being said, I've put it all behind me and am settling in just fine: finding my favorite grocery store, getting the bus route figured out, exploring yoga studios to find one I like and--of course--drinking lots of coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Now the Internet's a pretty big part of my life since I do a lot of writing from home. And since Comcast rarely works with anyone's ideal schedule, they couldn't come out for five days after I moved in, so I set out researching some free Wi-Fi which brought me to the following neighborhood gems in the NOPA/Western Addition neighborhood. While the free Wi-Fi is what initially attracted me to these coffee shops, I love each for different reasons and still go frequently despite the fact that the wireless is up and kickin' at home. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.matchinghalfcafe.com/\">The Matching Half\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/matchinghalfmenu.jpg\" alt=\"Airy and industrial interior of Matching Half Cafe and menu\" title=\"Airy and industrial interior of Matching Half Cafe and menu\" width=\"500\" height=\"250\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10187\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Airy and industrial interior of Matching Half Cafe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Matching Half\u003c/em> is one of those places I'm excited to bring people to. \u003cem>Yes, come and check out the new digs, and I'll take you to my new favorite coffee place.\u003c/em> Those are words I've uttered numerous times in the last few weeks. And before telling you all about how rad it is, a quick disclaimer for the laptop crowd: there are very few outlets, so if you've got a laptop battery that's hanging on for dear life, this may not be the best choice. However, it's great for so many other reasons, and I'm almost hesitant to talk about it because I like its tucked-away, not-too-crowded, neighborhood appeal. I appreciate places that pay close attention to each detail, from the lovely ceramic cups to the metal bar, to the stark but warm industrial space. I love the menu penned on craft paper. I love the vivid, industrial painting by \u003ca href=\"http://www.mikeshankman.com/\">Mike Shankman\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When not working, settling into one of the window-side tables is prime people watching territory. There are dog walkers, young families buying treats and hanging at the outdoor tables, and runners cruising towards the Panhandle. And the coffee: this is not quick in-out-and-on-with-your-life coffee. It really is slowly and carefully prepared and it shows. The lattes are beautiful and strong, and they have numerous single-origin drip coffees brewed to order. They also have a small but nice selection of breakfast pastries (the croissants are buttery, flaky goodness), sandwiches and salads. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/croissant500.jpg\" alt=\"croissant from The Matching Half \" title=\"croissant from The Matching Half \" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10190\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while I haven't had the pleasure of having a glass of beer or wine--it's sure to happen in the coming week. They do happy hour specials from 4pm-6pm daily, and have some interesting bottles of beer available. Like Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout and PBR in a bottle. Right now they actually have a breakfast panino and PBR special. I can't say that I've ever had PBR in a bottle and I definitely haven't had PBR for breakfast...but here's to a new home and new beginnings, perhaps PBR and all. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.matchinghalfcafe.com/\">The Matching Half\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1799 McAllister (@Baker), San Francisco, CA 94117\u003cbr>\n(415) 674-8699\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Mon.-Thurs.: 7am-7pm; Fri. 7am-10pm; Sat. 8am-10pm; Sun. 8am-6pm.\u003cbr>\nCash only.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dajanigroup.net/establishments/cafe-abir/\">Café Abir\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/abir.jpg\" alt=\"storefront of Cafe Abir \" title=\"storefront of Cafe Abir \" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10188\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Storefront of local favorite, Café Abir\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Café Abir prides itself on roasting their own coffee daily in their micro-roasting machine. They make a rock-solid Americano and a nice, strong latte. But so do many places in the city. So what sets Café Abir apart? What I like is their varied workspace: they have a giant, communal table along with raised round tables with red velour booths that feel like little work nooks. They play good 80's music: I've been sitting here writing for the past hour and there's been some classic Heart, Bruce Springsteen and Men at Work. Good stuff. And they also have tons of individually wrapped treats, from slices of cake, to apricot bars and chocolate-dipped Rice Krispie bars. I'll admit, before I'd stocked the kitchen and actually gotten a feel for the 'hood, I had my fair share of their giant Rice Krispie treats. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Café Abir serves \u003ca href=\"http://www.worldpantry.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/numitea/home.d2w/report\">Numi\u003c/a> tea, and a few different selections of beer and wine. In the evening, I've seen couples having a bottle of beer, presumably before heading out to one of the bars nearby. The red velour couches are that good--and when it's warm enough, the outdoor tables are prime for Divisadero people watching. So while there are dozens of incredible coffee joints around town, I'm thankful Abir's close by, and that they're open a bit later than most. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dajanigroup.net/establishments/cafe-abir/\">Café Abir\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n300 Fulton Street (@ Divisidero)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94117\u003cbr>\n(415) 567-6503\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Daily, 6am-10pm\u003cbr>\nCash only.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Apollo Coffee\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/apollo.jpg\" alt=\"A quiet Sunday afternoon at Apollo Coffee\" title=\"A quiet Sunday afternoon at Apollo Coffee\" width=\"500\" height=\"168\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10189\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A quiet Sunday afternoon at Apollo Coffee\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I first moved in, Apollo had a sign on the front door that they'd be closed for the next week. I wasn’t sure if this was because of the construction on Divisadero or because post-holiday business is just darn slow, and it's a smart business move to shutter for a few days. Regardless, I'm happy they're up and running now. This is quite literally the perfect place to get work done--oftentimes I actually feel guilty talking on the phone because the atmosphere is so conducive to quiet work and reading that it tends to have more of a library vibe than a happening coffee house vibe. So while you won’t hear the hippest live music here, there's tons of comfortable individual seating, lots of outlets, and great natural light. It's uber-clean, and the owner is incredibly friendly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> The lattes are great. Their espresso has smooth, sweet notes. And the drip coffee is strong--even though I have a coffeemaker at home, the houseguests I've had prefer to cruise over to Apollo for a cup. They have a small selection of breakfast pastries and scones, panini for lunch, and a great selection of snacks like \u003ca href=\"http://www.larabar.com/\">Lara Bars\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.dagobachocolate.com/\">Dagoba\u003c/a> chocolate, mini brownies, and mini truffles. In fact, I noticed a lot of options for the chocolate aficionado here, from chocolate bars to dark chocolate cupcakes. They sell beer and wine as well, although I think the hours at Apollo aren’t so conducive to this. When asked about the early hours, the owner commented that it's a much quieter part of Divisadero, and maybe in the summer they'll stay open a bit later. Until then, I'm sticking to the coffee, the quiet, and the chocolate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Apollo Coffee\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1064 Divisidero St. (between Turk and Golden Gate Blvd)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94115\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Mon.-Thurs. 8am-7pm; Fri.-Sat. 8am-6pm; Sun. 9am-6pm\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "I set out researching some free Wi-Fi which brought me to the following neighborhood gems in the NOPA/Western Addition neighborhood. While the free Wi-Fi is what initially attracted me to these coffee shops, I love each for different reasons and still go frequently despite the fact that the wireless is up and kickin' at home. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/matchinghalflatte.jpg\" alt=\"Lattes at Matching Half Cafe\" title=\"Lattes at Matching Half Cafe\" width=\"500\" height=\"250\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10191\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Lattes at Matching Half Cafe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> So I moved to the city a few weeks ago. After enduring many sweaty hours of \u003cem>I can't imagine anything I'd rather be doing less\u003c/em>, I've vowed never to move out of my apartment for as long as I shall live. Yes, the size of the kitchen will take a little getting used to, and I may never have a grown-up dinner party. But moving is just no fun. Getting the couch up the four flights of stairs was an unspeakable feat. That being said, I've put it all behind me and am settling in just fine: finding my favorite grocery store, getting the bus route figured out, exploring yoga studios to find one I like and--of course--drinking lots of coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Now the Internet's a pretty big part of my life since I do a lot of writing from home. And since Comcast rarely works with anyone's ideal schedule, they couldn't come out for five days after I moved in, so I set out researching some free Wi-Fi which brought me to the following neighborhood gems in the NOPA/Western Addition neighborhood. While the free Wi-Fi is what initially attracted me to these coffee shops, I love each for different reasons and still go frequently despite the fact that the wireless is up and kickin' at home. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.matchinghalfcafe.com/\">The Matching Half\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/matchinghalfmenu.jpg\" alt=\"Airy and industrial interior of Matching Half Cafe and menu\" title=\"Airy and industrial interior of Matching Half Cafe and menu\" width=\"500\" height=\"250\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10187\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Airy and industrial interior of Matching Half Cafe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Matching Half\u003c/em> is one of those places I'm excited to bring people to. \u003cem>Yes, come and check out the new digs, and I'll take you to my new favorite coffee place.\u003c/em> Those are words I've uttered numerous times in the last few weeks. And before telling you all about how rad it is, a quick disclaimer for the laptop crowd: there are very few outlets, so if you've got a laptop battery that's hanging on for dear life, this may not be the best choice. However, it's great for so many other reasons, and I'm almost hesitant to talk about it because I like its tucked-away, not-too-crowded, neighborhood appeal. I appreciate places that pay close attention to each detail, from the lovely ceramic cups to the metal bar, to the stark but warm industrial space. I love the menu penned on craft paper. I love the vivid, industrial painting by \u003ca href=\"http://www.mikeshankman.com/\">Mike Shankman\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When not working, settling into one of the window-side tables is prime people watching territory. There are dog walkers, young families buying treats and hanging at the outdoor tables, and runners cruising towards the Panhandle. And the coffee: this is not quick in-out-and-on-with-your-life coffee. It really is slowly and carefully prepared and it shows. The lattes are beautiful and strong, and they have numerous single-origin drip coffees brewed to order. They also have a small but nice selection of breakfast pastries (the croissants are buttery, flaky goodness), sandwiches and salads. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/croissant500.jpg\" alt=\"croissant from The Matching Half \" title=\"croissant from The Matching Half \" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10190\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while I haven't had the pleasure of having a glass of beer or wine--it's sure to happen in the coming week. They do happy hour specials from 4pm-6pm daily, and have some interesting bottles of beer available. Like Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout and PBR in a bottle. Right now they actually have a breakfast panino and PBR special. I can't say that I've ever had PBR in a bottle and I definitely haven't had PBR for breakfast...but here's to a new home and new beginnings, perhaps PBR and all. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.matchinghalfcafe.com/\">The Matching Half\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1799 McAllister (@Baker), San Francisco, CA 94117\u003cbr>\n(415) 674-8699\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Mon.-Thurs.: 7am-7pm; Fri. 7am-10pm; Sat. 8am-10pm; Sun. 8am-6pm.\u003cbr>\nCash only.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dajanigroup.net/establishments/cafe-abir/\">Café Abir\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/abir.jpg\" alt=\"storefront of Cafe Abir \" title=\"storefront of Cafe Abir \" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10188\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Storefront of local favorite, Café Abir\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Café Abir prides itself on roasting their own coffee daily in their micro-roasting machine. They make a rock-solid Americano and a nice, strong latte. But so do many places in the city. So what sets Café Abir apart? What I like is their varied workspace: they have a giant, communal table along with raised round tables with red velour booths that feel like little work nooks. They play good 80's music: I've been sitting here writing for the past hour and there's been some classic Heart, Bruce Springsteen and Men at Work. Good stuff. And they also have tons of individually wrapped treats, from slices of cake, to apricot bars and chocolate-dipped Rice Krispie bars. I'll admit, before I'd stocked the kitchen and actually gotten a feel for the 'hood, I had my fair share of their giant Rice Krispie treats. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Café Abir serves \u003ca href=\"http://www.worldpantry.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/numitea/home.d2w/report\">Numi\u003c/a> tea, and a few different selections of beer and wine. In the evening, I've seen couples having a bottle of beer, presumably before heading out to one of the bars nearby. The red velour couches are that good--and when it's warm enough, the outdoor tables are prime for Divisadero people watching. So while there are dozens of incredible coffee joints around town, I'm thankful Abir's close by, and that they're open a bit later than most. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dajanigroup.net/establishments/cafe-abir/\">Café Abir\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n300 Fulton Street (@ Divisidero)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94117\u003cbr>\n(415) 567-6503\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Daily, 6am-10pm\u003cbr>\nCash only.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Apollo Coffee\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/apollo.jpg\" alt=\"A quiet Sunday afternoon at Apollo Coffee\" title=\"A quiet Sunday afternoon at Apollo Coffee\" width=\"500\" height=\"168\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10189\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A quiet Sunday afternoon at Apollo Coffee\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I first moved in, Apollo had a sign on the front door that they'd be closed for the next week. I wasn’t sure if this was because of the construction on Divisadero or because post-holiday business is just darn slow, and it's a smart business move to shutter for a few days. Regardless, I'm happy they're up and running now. This is quite literally the perfect place to get work done--oftentimes I actually feel guilty talking on the phone because the atmosphere is so conducive to quiet work and reading that it tends to have more of a library vibe than a happening coffee house vibe. So while you won’t hear the hippest live music here, there's tons of comfortable individual seating, lots of outlets, and great natural light. It's uber-clean, and the owner is incredibly friendly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> The lattes are great. Their espresso has smooth, sweet notes. And the drip coffee is strong--even though I have a coffeemaker at home, the houseguests I've had prefer to cruise over to Apollo for a cup. They have a small selection of breakfast pastries and scones, panini for lunch, and a great selection of snacks like \u003ca href=\"http://www.larabar.com/\">Lara Bars\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.dagobachocolate.com/\">Dagoba\u003c/a> chocolate, mini brownies, and mini truffles. In fact, I noticed a lot of options for the chocolate aficionado here, from chocolate bars to dark chocolate cupcakes. They sell beer and wine as well, although I think the hours at Apollo aren’t so conducive to this. When asked about the early hours, the owner commented that it's a much quieter part of Divisadero, and maybe in the summer they'll stay open a bit later. Until then, I'm sticking to the coffee, the quiet, and the chocolate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Apollo Coffee\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1064 Divisidero St. (between Turk and Golden Gate Blvd)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94115\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Mon.-Thurs. 8am-7pm; Fri.-Sat. 8am-6pm; Sun. 9am-6pm\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "'Burb Burps: Evvia Estiatorio",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/octopus.jpg\" alt=\"octopus\" title=\"octopus\" width=\"450\" height=\"338\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9409\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Evvia -- sister to \u003ca href=\"http://www.kokkari.com\">Kokkari\u003c/a> in San Francisco -- is one of our favorite of the favorites down here. \u003ca href=\"http://www.evvia.net/home/\">Evvia\u003c/a> serves wonderfully classic Greek fare along with dishes they describe as \"local interpretations of many traditional Hellenic favorites.\" Because of a minor kitchen fire, Evvia had to close for a few weeks this fall and my husband and I were clutching our stomachs in fear that they would never reopen. Lucky for us and for Palo Alto, they did. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For us, It's all about the octopus. I mean, I suppose you COULD order the succulent lamb chops, or the piping hot gigantes beans with herbed feta, or even the eggplant and artichoke saganaki with the huge drift of Greek yogurt that needs to be spread over everything I eat for the rest of my life. But really, Evvia is all about the octopus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the menu, it's listed as \"Octapadaki tou Yiorgou\" and described as \"traditional grilled octopus with lemon, oregano, and olive oil.\" Like the best things in life, this dish is simple. No foam, no gelees, no essences of boiled-down essences. All it takes is four ingredients -- five, really, if you count the wood fire grill needed to edge the chopped cephalopod with charred, smoky goodness -- for that dish to wend its tentacled way into my hungry, waking moments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though normally quite generous with one another when it comes to food, my husband and I now have to put in a double order, because where Evvia's octopus is concerned, we're way too greedy to share a single.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, as much as we'd like to, diner can not live on octopus alone, and we do have other standard favorites at Evvia. The gigantes beans are the legume equivalent of a hot bath. Simmered in a rich marinara sauce with molten feta and oregano oil, Evvia's beans keep me from missing my favorite wood-baked beans at \u003ca href=\"http://nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>. They're definitely a must-order for us. When tomatoes are in season the Horiatiki salad is another winner. Crisp and refreshing with shavings of sweet purple onion, dusky olives, cucumber chunks, and salty squares of feta, it's the best classic Greek salad I've ever had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For me, eating Greek almost always means that the meal is incomplete without lamb of some sort. Evvia's simple lamb chops are perfectly cooked and served with a lemon half and crackly, roasted potatoes. They're lovely. I've also become very fond of the loukanika -- plump lengths of mesquite-grilled lamb sausage -- which beg to be dragged through their cucumber-yogurt side sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a way, it's unfortunate that we have such firm favorites, because while Evvia has so many other things I'd like to try, I'm not willing to sacrifice one of our usuals to do so. Maybe some day we'll have a large enough party that we'll have to order more food and then I'll finally get to try the moussaka with yogurt béchamel. Or the braised goat with tomatoes and orzo. Oooh, or the egg-lemon soup!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You now, it was really quite stupid of me to write this post on an empty stomach because I'm putting all my dinner plans back in the fridge, and we're getting Evvia in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.evvia.net/home/\">Evvia Estiatorio\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n420 Emerson Street (at Lytton)\u003cbr>\nPalo Alto, CA 94301\u003cbr>\n(650)326-0983\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hours\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMonday-Thurday: 11:30am-2:00pm (lunch)\u003cbr>\nMonday-Thursday: 5:30pm-10:00pm (dinner)\u003cbr>\nFriday: 5:30pm-11:00pm (dinner)\u003cbr>\nSaturday: 5:00pm-11:00pm (dinner)\u003cbr>\nSunday: 5:00pm-9:00pm (dinner)\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Evvia -- sister to \u003cem>Kokkari\u003c/em> in San Francisco -- is one of our favorite of the favorites down here. \u003cem>Evvia\u003c/em> serves wonderfully classic Greek fare along with dishes they describe as \"local interpretations of many traditional Hellenic favorites.\" Because of a minor kitchen fire, Evvia had to close for a few weeks this fall and my husband and I were clutching our stomachs in fear that they would never reopen. Lucky for us and for Palo Alto, they did. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/octopus.jpg\" alt=\"octopus\" title=\"octopus\" width=\"450\" height=\"338\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9409\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Evvia -- sister to \u003ca href=\"http://www.kokkari.com\">Kokkari\u003c/a> in San Francisco -- is one of our favorite of the favorites down here. \u003ca href=\"http://www.evvia.net/home/\">Evvia\u003c/a> serves wonderfully classic Greek fare along with dishes they describe as \"local interpretations of many traditional Hellenic favorites.\" Because of a minor kitchen fire, Evvia had to close for a few weeks this fall and my husband and I were clutching our stomachs in fear that they would never reopen. Lucky for us and for Palo Alto, they did. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For us, It's all about the octopus. I mean, I suppose you COULD order the succulent lamb chops, or the piping hot gigantes beans with herbed feta, or even the eggplant and artichoke saganaki with the huge drift of Greek yogurt that needs to be spread over everything I eat for the rest of my life. But really, Evvia is all about the octopus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the menu, it's listed as \"Octapadaki tou Yiorgou\" and described as \"traditional grilled octopus with lemon, oregano, and olive oil.\" Like the best things in life, this dish is simple. No foam, no gelees, no essences of boiled-down essences. All it takes is four ingredients -- five, really, if you count the wood fire grill needed to edge the chopped cephalopod with charred, smoky goodness -- for that dish to wend its tentacled way into my hungry, waking moments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though normally quite generous with one another when it comes to food, my husband and I now have to put in a double order, because where Evvia's octopus is concerned, we're way too greedy to share a single.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, as much as we'd like to, diner can not live on octopus alone, and we do have other standard favorites at Evvia. The gigantes beans are the legume equivalent of a hot bath. Simmered in a rich marinara sauce with molten feta and oregano oil, Evvia's beans keep me from missing my favorite wood-baked beans at \u003ca href=\"http://nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>. They're definitely a must-order for us. When tomatoes are in season the Horiatiki salad is another winner. Crisp and refreshing with shavings of sweet purple onion, dusky olives, cucumber chunks, and salty squares of feta, it's the best classic Greek salad I've ever had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For me, eating Greek almost always means that the meal is incomplete without lamb of some sort. Evvia's simple lamb chops are perfectly cooked and served with a lemon half and crackly, roasted potatoes. They're lovely. I've also become very fond of the loukanika -- plump lengths of mesquite-grilled lamb sausage -- which beg to be dragged through their cucumber-yogurt side sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a way, it's unfortunate that we have such firm favorites, because while Evvia has so many other things I'd like to try, I'm not willing to sacrifice one of our usuals to do so. Maybe some day we'll have a large enough party that we'll have to order more food and then I'll finally get to try the moussaka with yogurt béchamel. Or the braised goat with tomatoes and orzo. Oooh, or the egg-lemon soup!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You now, it was really quite stupid of me to write this post on an empty stomach because I'm putting all my dinner plans back in the fridge, and we're getting Evvia in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.evvia.net/home/\">Evvia Estiatorio\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n420 Emerson Street (at Lytton)\u003cbr>\nPalo Alto, CA 94301\u003cbr>\n(650)326-0983\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hours\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMonday-Thurday: 11:30am-2:00pm (lunch)\u003cbr>\nMonday-Thursday: 5:30pm-10:00pm (dinner)\u003cbr>\nFriday: 5:30pm-11:00pm (dinner)\u003cbr>\nSaturday: 5:00pm-11:00pm (dinner)\u003cbr>\nSunday: 5:00pm-9:00pm (dinner)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Power to the Piroshki",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/goldenorb.jpg\" alt=\"Opening of Golden Orb Piroshki Shop\" title=\"Opening of Golden Orb Piroshki Shop\" width=\"500\" height=\"460\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9095\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Opening of Golden Orb Piroshki Shop\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first stumbled across Golden Orb as I was routinely stalking \u003ca href=\"http://fourthstreet.arizmendi.coop/\">Arizmendi Bakery\u003c/a>, trying to figure out when their San Rafael location is \u003cem>finally\u003c/em> going to open. Ah yes, disappointed yet again (it's been so long). But yesterday morning, my disappointment waned when I discovered a new red and gold sign had popped up further down the street. I parked, did some exploring, and found the smiling faces of managers and adept piroshki purveyors, Ashley De Rutte and her fiancé Breeze Kinsey bustling about the \u003ca href=\"http://www.goldenorbpiroshki.com/\">Golden Orb\u003c/a>. Ashley's father, David Daunell, is the owner--you may remember his name from Moosetta's up in Sonoma, the popular piroshki shop that his mother Caroline ran with her husband, Chef Marvin Joyce until the late 1990s. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/breeze-and-ashley.jpg\" alt=\"Shop Managers Breeze Kinsey and Ashley de Rutte\" title=\"Shop Managers Breeze Kinsey and Ashley de Rutte\" width=\"403\" height=\"450\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9094\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Shop Managers Breeze Kinsey and Ashley de Rutte\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now if you're new to piroshki, they're not a light food. However, they're perfect for this time of year when the rains and gray winter days are looming. Their origin is actually difficult to trace, with Poles, Russians, Latvians, and Czechs all claiming them as their own. Regardless, the piroshki's you'll try at \u003cstrong>Golden Orb\u003c/strong> are a traditional Russian hand pie stuffed with a variety of savory fillings. While the beef or the cabbage vermicelli are certainly the most traditional, they've added more contemporary flavors such as chicken potpie and spinach parmesan--all for less than the price of a grande latte. Ashley and Breeze also offer a few salads and a small but lovely selection of baked goods, fair trade coffee beverages, and teas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/menu.JPG\" alt=\"Menu Offerings at Golden Orb\" title=\"Menu Offerings at Golden Orb\" width=\"500\" height=\"345\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9096\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Menu Offerings at Golden Orb\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I tried the two biggest sellers, according to Breeze: the beef, onion, and dill along with the cabbage, vermicelli, carrot and caraway seed. They were each placed in little bags, warm, and perfectly golden on top. The dough was much chewier than I'd expected and much less greasy. After everything I'd heard about piroshki, I was expecting a major gut bomb. And don't get me wrong: they're certainly filling, but not in a 'I need a nap' sort of way, but more in a 'wow, I just had a satisfying meal all contained in a little bread pocket' kind of way. The filling-to-dough ratio was perfect, and I obviously couldn't finish both in one setting so I reheated half of the beef piroshki later in the day and it was just as good the second time around.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/piroshki.jpg\" alt=\"Piroshki breakfast and lunch\" title=\"Piroshki breakfast and lunch\" width=\"500\" height=\"251\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9097\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Piroshki breakfast...and lunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wasn't planning on writing about piroshki for this week's post. But after eating at \u003cstrong>Golden Orb\u003c/strong> and talking to Breeze and Ashley, I couldn't stop thinking about the quaint and inviting space or those warm savory pies. And I'm not sure that's because they were so delicious (although they were) or because they were a new-to-me food. Even if piroshki aren't part of your cultural tradition, there's something about them that feels familiar--something you can't quite stop thinking about. At \u003cstrong>Golden Orb\u003c/strong>, Caroline's granddaughter is keeping the family legacy alive in a small but tangible way, something we should all celebrate in this season of mass consumption and big box stores. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've vowed not to step into a mall for any of my holiday shopping this year (so far, so good), and over the past few days I've made another vow: more piroshki. Many more piroshki. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.goldenorbpiroshki.com/\">Golden Orb\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n811 4th Street\u003cbr>\nSan Rafael, CA 94901\u003cbr>\n(415) 454-8692\u003cbr>\nHours: 8am–6pm\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Now if you're new to piroshki, they're not a light food. However, they're perfect for this time of year when the rains and gray winter days are looming. Their origin is actually difficult to trace, with Poles, Russians, Latvians, and Czechs all claiming them as their own. Regardless, the piroshki you'll try at \u003cstrong>Golden Orb\u003c/strong> are a traditional Russian hand pie stuffed with a variety of savory fillings. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/goldenorb.jpg\" alt=\"Opening of Golden Orb Piroshki Shop\" title=\"Opening of Golden Orb Piroshki Shop\" width=\"500\" height=\"460\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9095\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Opening of Golden Orb Piroshki Shop\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first stumbled across Golden Orb as I was routinely stalking \u003ca href=\"http://fourthstreet.arizmendi.coop/\">Arizmendi Bakery\u003c/a>, trying to figure out when their San Rafael location is \u003cem>finally\u003c/em> going to open. Ah yes, disappointed yet again (it's been so long). But yesterday morning, my disappointment waned when I discovered a new red and gold sign had popped up further down the street. I parked, did some exploring, and found the smiling faces of managers and adept piroshki purveyors, Ashley De Rutte and her fiancé Breeze Kinsey bustling about the \u003ca href=\"http://www.goldenorbpiroshki.com/\">Golden Orb\u003c/a>. Ashley's father, David Daunell, is the owner--you may remember his name from Moosetta's up in Sonoma, the popular piroshki shop that his mother Caroline ran with her husband, Chef Marvin Joyce until the late 1990s. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/breeze-and-ashley.jpg\" alt=\"Shop Managers Breeze Kinsey and Ashley de Rutte\" title=\"Shop Managers Breeze Kinsey and Ashley de Rutte\" width=\"403\" height=\"450\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9094\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Shop Managers Breeze Kinsey and Ashley de Rutte\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now if you're new to piroshki, they're not a light food. However, they're perfect for this time of year when the rains and gray winter days are looming. Their origin is actually difficult to trace, with Poles, Russians, Latvians, and Czechs all claiming them as their own. Regardless, the piroshki's you'll try at \u003cstrong>Golden Orb\u003c/strong> are a traditional Russian hand pie stuffed with a variety of savory fillings. While the beef or the cabbage vermicelli are certainly the most traditional, they've added more contemporary flavors such as chicken potpie and spinach parmesan--all for less than the price of a grande latte. Ashley and Breeze also offer a few salads and a small but lovely selection of baked goods, fair trade coffee beverages, and teas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/menu.JPG\" alt=\"Menu Offerings at Golden Orb\" title=\"Menu Offerings at Golden Orb\" width=\"500\" height=\"345\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9096\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Menu Offerings at Golden Orb\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I tried the two biggest sellers, according to Breeze: the beef, onion, and dill along with the cabbage, vermicelli, carrot and caraway seed. They were each placed in little bags, warm, and perfectly golden on top. The dough was much chewier than I'd expected and much less greasy. After everything I'd heard about piroshki, I was expecting a major gut bomb. And don't get me wrong: they're certainly filling, but not in a 'I need a nap' sort of way, but more in a 'wow, I just had a satisfying meal all contained in a little bread pocket' kind of way. The filling-to-dough ratio was perfect, and I obviously couldn't finish both in one setting so I reheated half of the beef piroshki later in the day and it was just as good the second time around.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/piroshki.jpg\" alt=\"Piroshki breakfast and lunch\" title=\"Piroshki breakfast and lunch\" width=\"500\" height=\"251\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9097\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Piroshki breakfast...and lunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wasn't planning on writing about piroshki for this week's post. But after eating at \u003cstrong>Golden Orb\u003c/strong> and talking to Breeze and Ashley, I couldn't stop thinking about the quaint and inviting space or those warm savory pies. And I'm not sure that's because they were so delicious (although they were) or because they were a new-to-me food. Even if piroshki aren't part of your cultural tradition, there's something about them that feels familiar--something you can't quite stop thinking about. At \u003cstrong>Golden Orb\u003c/strong>, Caroline's granddaughter is keeping the family legacy alive in a small but tangible way, something we should all celebrate in this season of mass consumption and big box stores. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've vowed not to step into a mall for any of my holiday shopping this year (so far, so good), and over the past few days I've made another vow: more piroshki. Many more piroshki. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.goldenorbpiroshki.com/\">Golden Orb\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n811 4th Street\u003cbr>\nSan Rafael, CA 94901\u003cbr>\n(415) 454-8692\u003cbr>\nHours: 8am–6pm\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchengadgetgirl.com/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/shokolaatlobster.jpg\" alt=\"Shokolaat Lobster Sandwich- Photo courtesy Kitchen Gadget Girl\" title=\"Shokolaat Lobster Sandwich- Photo courtesy Kitchen Gadget Girl\" width=\"450\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-8914\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Shokolaat Lobster Salad Sandwich. Photo courtesy \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchengadgetgirl.com/\">Kitchen Gadget Girl\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first thing you see when you walk into this self-described modern bistro are the sparkling cases stuffed with rich piles of handmade chocolates and pastries. That decadent display alone would be enough to draw one back to Shokolaat, but I was after quite another attraction: a meatloaf sandwich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been to Shokolaat only for lunch (truth be told, I find their lunch menu far more interesting than their dinner offerings) and I have yet to be disappointed. Last spring, I had a mushroom soup drizzled with mint oil that was incredibly satisfying without being overly rich. That soup was good, very good, wonderfully good, but the salad I paired with it was great.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's was nothing particularly interesting about the salad in question -- if I recall correctly, it was just greens and herbs -- but the greens were fresh and springy and the vinaigrette was neither too heavy nor too sweet. Fresh salad greens seem so simple, but I've met way too many salads that are ruined by limp lettuces and bad vinaigrette and, for me, there's nothing so disappointing as a bad salad. It's surprising how many restaurants can get it wrong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But oy, that meatloaf sandwich! I'm a meatloaf lover. I love it hot and fresh with a steaming baked potato that has the perfect salt: butter: sour cream: minced scallion ratio. I love it cold the next morning, noon, or night. However, until Shokolaat showed me the way, I never loved it on a sandwich. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Served open-faced on two pieces of hearty bread coated with thin slices of oven-melted cheese, the spicy meat mixture has a tender, succulent crumb, full of flavor and comfort. \u003ci>Sigh.\u003c/i> I get a big silly smile on my face just thinking about it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, and a word on that cheese addition, because of course I have decided cheese opinions. I don't add cheese to the meatloaf sandwiches I now make at home, but Shokolaat's sandwich has just the right amount to give flavor and texture but not so much that it puts this fairly elegant sandwich in grinder territory. I loathe it when cheese takes over any dish except fondue, but Shokolaat strikes the perfect balance. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, I found out that the meatloaf sandwich rotates out with other sandwiches they like to offer. \"We have a really good hamburger right now!\" the Shokolaat guy insisted when I called to ask about the meatloaf sandwich. Hey, I'll try it, but there are bunches of places in Palo Alto and Menlo Park to get good hamburgers. The same can hardly be said of an awesome meatloaf sandwich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchengadgetgirl.com/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/shokolaatpizza.jpg\" alt=\"Shokolaat Pizzetta- Photo courtesy Kitchen Gadget Girl\" title=\"Shokolaat Pizzetta- Photo courtesy Kitchen Gadget Girl\" width=\"450\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-8916\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Shokolaat Pizzetta. Photo courtesy \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchengadgetgirl.com/\">Kitchen Gadget Girl\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other highlights I discovered are two tasty pizzettas with pretty good crusts, macaroni and cheese topped with brioche crumbs and served in an impossibly adorable, personal-sized Le Creuset Dutch oven, and a lobster salad sandwich with avocado and Meyer lemon vinaigrette on a fresh, buttery croissant. The menu calls the lobster sandwich the \"Neighborhood Favorite\" and notes that they tried to take this particular item off but people, like, rioted or something, so they learned their lesson and there it stays. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe I need to start a riot to bring the meatloaf sandwich back sooner...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.shokolaat.com/\">Shokolaat\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n516 University Ave (at Cowper)\u003cbr>\nPalo Alto, CA 94301\u003cbr>\n650.289.0719\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLunch: Monday-Friday 11:30am-2:00pm\u003cbr>\nBrunch:\tSaturday-Sunday 11:30am-2:00pm\u003cbr>\nDinner:\tMonday-Saturday 5:30pm-9:00pm; Sunday 5:30pm-8:30pm\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The first thing you see when you walk into this self-described modern bistro are the sparkling cases stuffed with rich piles of handmade chocolates and pastries. That decadent display alone would be enough to draw one back to Shokolaat, but I was after quite another attraction: a meatloaf sandwich.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchengadgetgirl.com/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/shokolaatlobster.jpg\" alt=\"Shokolaat Lobster Sandwich- Photo courtesy Kitchen Gadget Girl\" title=\"Shokolaat Lobster Sandwich- Photo courtesy Kitchen Gadget Girl\" width=\"450\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-8914\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Shokolaat Lobster Salad Sandwich. Photo courtesy \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchengadgetgirl.com/\">Kitchen Gadget Girl\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first thing you see when you walk into this self-described modern bistro are the sparkling cases stuffed with rich piles of handmade chocolates and pastries. That decadent display alone would be enough to draw one back to Shokolaat, but I was after quite another attraction: a meatloaf sandwich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been to Shokolaat only for lunch (truth be told, I find their lunch menu far more interesting than their dinner offerings) and I have yet to be disappointed. Last spring, I had a mushroom soup drizzled with mint oil that was incredibly satisfying without being overly rich. That soup was good, very good, wonderfully good, but the salad I paired with it was great.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's was nothing particularly interesting about the salad in question -- if I recall correctly, it was just greens and herbs -- but the greens were fresh and springy and the vinaigrette was neither too heavy nor too sweet. Fresh salad greens seem so simple, but I've met way too many salads that are ruined by limp lettuces and bad vinaigrette and, for me, there's nothing so disappointing as a bad salad. It's surprising how many restaurants can get it wrong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But oy, that meatloaf sandwich! I'm a meatloaf lover. I love it hot and fresh with a steaming baked potato that has the perfect salt: butter: sour cream: minced scallion ratio. I love it cold the next morning, noon, or night. However, until Shokolaat showed me the way, I never loved it on a sandwich. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Served open-faced on two pieces of hearty bread coated with thin slices of oven-melted cheese, the spicy meat mixture has a tender, succulent crumb, full of flavor and comfort. \u003ci>Sigh.\u003c/i> I get a big silly smile on my face just thinking about it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, and a word on that cheese addition, because of course I have decided cheese opinions. I don't add cheese to the meatloaf sandwiches I now make at home, but Shokolaat's sandwich has just the right amount to give flavor and texture but not so much that it puts this fairly elegant sandwich in grinder territory. I loathe it when cheese takes over any dish except fondue, but Shokolaat strikes the perfect balance. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, I found out that the meatloaf sandwich rotates out with other sandwiches they like to offer. \"We have a really good hamburger right now!\" the Shokolaat guy insisted when I called to ask about the meatloaf sandwich. Hey, I'll try it, but there are bunches of places in Palo Alto and Menlo Park to get good hamburgers. The same can hardly be said of an awesome meatloaf sandwich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchengadgetgirl.com/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/shokolaatpizza.jpg\" alt=\"Shokolaat Pizzetta- Photo courtesy Kitchen Gadget Girl\" title=\"Shokolaat Pizzetta- Photo courtesy Kitchen Gadget Girl\" width=\"450\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-8916\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Shokolaat Pizzetta. Photo courtesy \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchengadgetgirl.com/\">Kitchen Gadget Girl\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other highlights I discovered are two tasty pizzettas with pretty good crusts, macaroni and cheese topped with brioche crumbs and served in an impossibly adorable, personal-sized Le Creuset Dutch oven, and a lobster salad sandwich with avocado and Meyer lemon vinaigrette on a fresh, buttery croissant. The menu calls the lobster sandwich the \"Neighborhood Favorite\" and notes that they tried to take this particular item off but people, like, rioted or something, so they learned their lesson and there it stays. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe I need to start a riot to bring the meatloaf sandwich back sooner...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.shokolaat.com/\">Shokolaat\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n516 University Ave (at Cowper)\u003cbr>\nPalo Alto, CA 94301\u003cbr>\n650.289.0719\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLunch: Monday-Friday 11:30am-2:00pm\u003cbr>\nBrunch:\tSaturday-Sunday 11:30am-2:00pm\u003cbr>\nDinner:\tMonday-Saturday 5:30pm-9:00pm; Sunday 5:30pm-8:30pm\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/losjarritos500.jpg\" alt=\"Los Jarritos\" title=\"Los Jarritos\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8250\">\u003cbr>\nAt \u003ca href=\"http://losjarritos.com/\">Los Jarritos\u003c/a>, the Reyes Padilla family's sit-down eatery on the corner of South Van Ness and 20th, components of the restaurant's fantastic chilaquiles remo are reminiscent of canonized comfort foods from other cultures. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like noodles in a day-old lasagne, the quarters of fried corn tortilla are pasta-like, smothered in tomato sauce, congealed, pinioned under an oozing crown of cheese. Nestled amongst the bits of tortilla, the long-simmered strands of chicken taste as if they have been lifted from a huffing stockpot of soup. Scrambled eggs are there too, slippery and elusive, binding everything into a velvety mass further enriched and enlivened by a pour of crema. As the crema melts and disappears, the effect is smooth: none of the comforting elements stand out unless they're deliberately eaten apart from the others; taken together, the flavors are big and familiar, yet invigorating and, to the uninitiated, new. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes, the homiest dishes -- foods without pretense or artifice -- are most revealing about the cultures from which they spring, and inspire the most debate amongst their devotees. However, from countless regional Mexican renditions -- like white sauces in Sinaloa and Guadalajara's polenta-like cazuela cook-downs -- to American adaptations that echo Tex-Mex migas, all chilaquiles aim to soothe -- regardless of a particular variation's provenance and claims to authenticity. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other weekend, hungover and exhausted from a morning of pick-up basketball, I was looking for comfort in sustenance. I found it easily, several thousand calories' worth: two distinct and excellent versions of chilaquiles served up at two very different Mission District establishments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chilaquiles at Los Jarritos aren't particularly spicy, merely salty and luxurious. Cranberry-colored and riddled with ice, a pitcher-sized glass column of agua fresca de jamaica -- a refreshing tea-like infusion of dried hibiscus flowers -- compliments the richness with tart notes as well as sweetness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Furthermore, you need not make a breakfast of chilaquiles alone. The \"Mexicano\" side of the divided desayunos menu -- the one from which you should be ordering -- is rife with other enticing offerings, like machaca, a melange of flank steak, scrambled eggs, onions, tomatoes, and peppers, and huevos divorciados. The latter boasts tender pork cubes in two sauces -- a red, oily chile colorado and a spicy, slightly sour chile verde -- kept separate and served atop two runny fried egg rounds. The basket of pillowy, sweating tortillas comes in handy here. Strips of the thick discs are good for sopping sauce and scooping up errant morsels, but, nibbled unadorned, they also offer a welcome respite from the heavy assault of pig and eggs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Interestingly, there are huevos con amor as well, but they are not as delicious and, surprisingly, no less expensive. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside, Los Jarritos looks as bold as its food tastes, like a typically kitschy roadside diner wonderfully lost in translation. A chalkboard announces specials like birria and menudo. The tabletops are a lively turquoise; sombreros swing from hooks high up on the walls alongside toy guitars in pastel hues and large black-and-white photographs. A miniature plastic marlin peers down blankly from a lower perch. Tiny painted drinking mugs -- the restaurant's namesake -- hang in bunches between the windows.\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\nBy comparison, the interior of the four-year-old \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/pastores-san-francisco\">Los Pastores\u003c/a> is demure: a floor tiled in matte brown squares, a beige back counter, and peach walls dotted with a few faded reviews in simple frames. If the inside of the restaurant is austere, the outside is barely visible at all, even from just across the street -- a narrow storefront at the foot of Bernal Hill, right where Cortland runs into Mission. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/chilaquiles.jpg\" alt=\"chilaquiles\" title=\"chilaquiles\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8252\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem> Chilaquiles con huevos from Los Pastores. Photo by Bucko W.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here, the chilaquiles con huevos barely resemble their chicken-laden counterparts at Los Jarritos. Tortilla triangles are fried until they are brittle and brown around the edges, and arranged over a shallow pool of thin green sauce shot through with citrus and chile heat. Cojita-studded crema tops the chips, darting out in little rivulets from under a trio of overlapping fried eggs that leak yolk at the slightest twist of a fork. When the big plate arrives, the individual parts are distinct, uncombined, but their sum emerges gradually over the course of eating. The first few bites contain crisp tortilla, a little sauce, and a sliver or two of egg. Pour the bowlful of extra sauce over the eggs, and let it soak in. Once the sauce has done its work, and the broken yolks from the eggs have been swirled in, the tortilla chips will be soft, with just a pleasurable hint of the old crunch remaining. You can order chilaquiles with steak in lieu of eggs but either way, skip coffee, and instead slurp a pineapple agua fresca -- ultra-sweet, extremely cold, and topped with pale froth like a soda jerk's quaffable confection. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because chef, owner, and server Irma Calderon does all the work herself, service at Los Pastores is fastest when the room is empty -- early on a weekend morning. Bustling Los Jarritos is a more polished operation, but a server still sidles up and cracks, \"time's up!\" five minutes after the menus have been opened -- not that you really care. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Visit either restaurant on a Saturday at any time, order up some chilaquiles, and indulge in a self-satisfied smirk as you contemplate the mornings many neighborhood brunchers are \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/02/brunchin-is-a-habit-waiting-for-the-bran-26-dollars-in-my-hand/\">putting themselves through\u003c/a>: forty-five minute waits on crammed sidewalks for mediocore food they'll end up scarfing in a 20-minute frenzy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, you might be waiting too, but at least you'll be at a table, comforted by the chilaquiles in your near future, sipping an agua fresca, and enjoying good fellowship -- ingredients of which great morning meals are made.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Sometimes, the homiest dishes -- foods without pretense or artifice -- are most revealing about the cultures from which they spring, and inspire the most debate amongst their devotees. However, from countless regional Mexican renditions -- like white sauces in Sinaloa and Guadalajara's polenta-like cazuela cook-downs -- to American adaptations that echo Tex-Mex migas, all chilaquiles aim to soothe -- regardless of a particular variation's provenance and claims to authenticity. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/losjarritos500.jpg\" alt=\"Los Jarritos\" title=\"Los Jarritos\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8250\">\u003cbr>\nAt \u003ca href=\"http://losjarritos.com/\">Los Jarritos\u003c/a>, the Reyes Padilla family's sit-down eatery on the corner of South Van Ness and 20th, components of the restaurant's fantastic chilaquiles remo are reminiscent of canonized comfort foods from other cultures. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like noodles in a day-old lasagne, the quarters of fried corn tortilla are pasta-like, smothered in tomato sauce, congealed, pinioned under an oozing crown of cheese. Nestled amongst the bits of tortilla, the long-simmered strands of chicken taste as if they have been lifted from a huffing stockpot of soup. Scrambled eggs are there too, slippery and elusive, binding everything into a velvety mass further enriched and enlivened by a pour of crema. As the crema melts and disappears, the effect is smooth: none of the comforting elements stand out unless they're deliberately eaten apart from the others; taken together, the flavors are big and familiar, yet invigorating and, to the uninitiated, new. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes, the homiest dishes -- foods without pretense or artifice -- are most revealing about the cultures from which they spring, and inspire the most debate amongst their devotees. However, from countless regional Mexican renditions -- like white sauces in Sinaloa and Guadalajara's polenta-like cazuela cook-downs -- to American adaptations that echo Tex-Mex migas, all chilaquiles aim to soothe -- regardless of a particular variation's provenance and claims to authenticity. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other weekend, hungover and exhausted from a morning of pick-up basketball, I was looking for comfort in sustenance. I found it easily, several thousand calories' worth: two distinct and excellent versions of chilaquiles served up at two very different Mission District establishments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chilaquiles at Los Jarritos aren't particularly spicy, merely salty and luxurious. Cranberry-colored and riddled with ice, a pitcher-sized glass column of agua fresca de jamaica -- a refreshing tea-like infusion of dried hibiscus flowers -- compliments the richness with tart notes as well as sweetness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Furthermore, you need not make a breakfast of chilaquiles alone. The \"Mexicano\" side of the divided desayunos menu -- the one from which you should be ordering -- is rife with other enticing offerings, like machaca, a melange of flank steak, scrambled eggs, onions, tomatoes, and peppers, and huevos divorciados. The latter boasts tender pork cubes in two sauces -- a red, oily chile colorado and a spicy, slightly sour chile verde -- kept separate and served atop two runny fried egg rounds. The basket of pillowy, sweating tortillas comes in handy here. Strips of the thick discs are good for sopping sauce and scooping up errant morsels, but, nibbled unadorned, they also offer a welcome respite from the heavy assault of pig and eggs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Interestingly, there are huevos con amor as well, but they are not as delicious and, surprisingly, no less expensive. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside, Los Jarritos looks as bold as its food tastes, like a typically kitschy roadside diner wonderfully lost in translation. A chalkboard announces specials like birria and menudo. The tabletops are a lively turquoise; sombreros swing from hooks high up on the walls alongside toy guitars in pastel hues and large black-and-white photographs. A miniature plastic marlin peers down blankly from a lower perch. Tiny painted drinking mugs -- the restaurant's namesake -- hang in bunches between the windows.\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\nBy comparison, the interior of the four-year-old \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/pastores-san-francisco\">Los Pastores\u003c/a> is demure: a floor tiled in matte brown squares, a beige back counter, and peach walls dotted with a few faded reviews in simple frames. If the inside of the restaurant is austere, the outside is barely visible at all, even from just across the street -- a narrow storefront at the foot of Bernal Hill, right where Cortland runs into Mission. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/chilaquiles.jpg\" alt=\"chilaquiles\" title=\"chilaquiles\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8252\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem> Chilaquiles con huevos from Los Pastores. Photo by Bucko W.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here, the chilaquiles con huevos barely resemble their chicken-laden counterparts at Los Jarritos. Tortilla triangles are fried until they are brittle and brown around the edges, and arranged over a shallow pool of thin green sauce shot through with citrus and chile heat. Cojita-studded crema tops the chips, darting out in little rivulets from under a trio of overlapping fried eggs that leak yolk at the slightest twist of a fork. When the big plate arrives, the individual parts are distinct, uncombined, but their sum emerges gradually over the course of eating. The first few bites contain crisp tortilla, a little sauce, and a sliver or two of egg. Pour the bowlful of extra sauce over the eggs, and let it soak in. Once the sauce has done its work, and the broken yolks from the eggs have been swirled in, the tortilla chips will be soft, with just a pleasurable hint of the old crunch remaining. You can order chilaquiles with steak in lieu of eggs but either way, skip coffee, and instead slurp a pineapple agua fresca -- ultra-sweet, extremely cold, and topped with pale froth like a soda jerk's quaffable confection. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because chef, owner, and server Irma Calderon does all the work herself, service at Los Pastores is fastest when the room is empty -- early on a weekend morning. Bustling Los Jarritos is a more polished operation, but a server still sidles up and cracks, \"time's up!\" five minutes after the menus have been opened -- not that you really care. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Visit either restaurant on a Saturday at any time, order up some chilaquiles, and indulge in a self-satisfied smirk as you contemplate the mornings many neighborhood brunchers are \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/02/brunchin-is-a-habit-waiting-for-the-bran-26-dollars-in-my-hand/\">putting themselves through\u003c/a>: forty-five minute waits on crammed sidewalks for mediocore food they'll end up scarfing in a 20-minute frenzy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, you might be waiting too, but at least you'll be at a table, comforted by the chilaquiles in your near future, sipping an agua fresca, and enjoying good fellowship -- ingredients of which great morning meals are made.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Fat of the Land: Adventures in 21st Century Foraging",
"title": "Fat of the Land: Adventures in 21st Century Foraging",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1594850070/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/fotl-cover300.jpg\" alt=\"Fat of the Land by Langdon Cook\" title=\"Fat of the Land by Langdon Cook\" width=\"300\" height=\"464\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-7987\">\u003c/a>The fig tree in my neighbor's yard--the one with lots of branches hanging temptingly over the sidewalk--is just starting to ripen its fall crop. According to California law, fruit growing in public space (hanging on a branch over a city sidewalk, for example) is public fruit, and free for the taking, as long as the picker leaves what's on the other side of the fence (or property line) alone. Going out to get yogurt and a newspaper on a Saturday morning, I'd arrive home with a foraged breakfast centerpiece of ripe sweet figs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But clearly, I've barely cracked the spine on \u003cem>Foraging for Dummies.\u003c/em> At least compared to Seattlite Langdon Cook, author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1594850070/kqedorg-20\">Fat of the Land: Adventures of a 21st Century Forager\u003c/a> for whom a daily forage might involve digging for razor clams at dusk in December, or setting up a spotlight for late-night squid jigging in January. Spearfishing for lingcod within the city limits, hand-grabbing Dungeness crab out of the Sound, dodging homeless guys to harvest choice young dandelion greens near the I-5 on-ramp. . . if you sum it up like that, Cook sounds like a pretty wild and crazy guy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Except that he's almost always eclipsed in his own narrative by the buddies who show him the ropes. With nicknames like Trouthead and Warpo, these dudes are guy's guys, passionate, risk-loving, obsessive hunter-gatherers who let Cook tag along as they head into their element: to the bank of the Columbia at dawn for shad, into a beat-up canoe on the Hood Canal for shrimp, tramping a burnt-out section of the Okanogan National Forest for morels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cook walks the walk, and dives the dive, but hard as he tries, he never quite transcends. Throughout, he remains a game but nerdy writer, less on the hunt for shrimp and sturgeon (the toothy, prehistoric-looking fish that Cook's friend Beedle describes admiringly as \"one tough hombre\") than for a certain manly authenticity that remains always a little out of his reach, no matter how many times he grabs for his pen to scribble down a colorful phrase. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What can be said about this river that hasn't already been said?\" he notes from the banks of the surging Columbia River, looking up at the power lines swooping overhead. \"I try to put myself in a dugout canoe circa 1805, but the wires keep getting in the way.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book is organized in a way familiar to readers of Mark Kurlansky or Michael Pollan: first an action narrative, then a loop through biology and ecology, a dash through the stinging nettles of climate change and ever-encroaching environmental destruction, a quick end run through socio-cultural history, then a wind-up of the narrative and a triumphant meal and recipe. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reader tags along after Cook, skimming along through his magazine-ready adventures (it's no surprise to find out that he writes frequently for publications like\u003cem> Outside\u003c/em> and \u003cem>The Stranger)\u003c/em>, learning some nifty stuff about, say, the fruiting cycles of the morel mushroom, or why hunting for Dungeness crabs during their mating season is like shooting fish in a barrel. But, just like those lurking lingcod, the truly captivating stories stay in the shadows. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What does fishing mean for the Asian grandmothers who come down night after night to fish for squid off the municipal pier where Cook shows up one evening, nervous of his status as Anglo newbie amid the bantering regulars from Cambodia and Nicaragua? Or the morel-hunting locals on the edges of a remote mountain town who saw their forest go up in smoke around them during a recent wildfire? Cook can't quite shake the knowledge that what's fun (or at least fodder for a book contract) for him is necessity for others, and neither can the reader. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, it's an intriguing read, and a way to take a fresh look at the edible abundance available for the (slightly stealthy) taking even in the heart of a sprawling American city. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you're not quite ready to free-dive for abalone yet, you can join interdisciplinary artist Julie Kahn (currently working at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.headlands.org\">Headlands Center for the Arts\u003c/a>) for a feast of wild game and foraged foods in Marin on November 15th. It's a benefit for \u003ca href=\"http://swampcabbagemovie.com\">Swamp Cabbage\u003c/a>, which Kahn and her fellow filmmaker Hayley Downs call a \"dark and sweaty\" documentary in progress tracing their personal connections to the fast-disappearing backwoods traditions of rural Florida. The multi-course menu includes chicharrones from Ryan Farr's 4505 Meats, swamp cabbage pickles, gator bites, locally hunted wild boar from Mendocino, local abalone, acorn bread, truly wild mushroom pizza, persimmon gelato foraged and made by Liana and Michael Orlandi of Mill Valley's Gelateria Ceci, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'll be baking foraged fruit turnovers for the spread, too--which means I better get up early and start stalking those succulent figs around the corner. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Could Langdon Cook be a Euell Gibbons for the urban homesteading crowd? Spearfishing for lingcod within the city limits, hand-grabbing Dungeness crab out of the Sound, dodging homeless guys to harvest choice young dandelion greens near the I-5 on-ramp...if you sum it up like that, the Seattle author of Fat of the Land: Adventures in 21st Century Foraging can sound like a pretty wild and crazy guy. But does he really have the passion (and the chops) to be a renegade hunter-gatherer in a triple-latte town? ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1594850070/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/fotl-cover300.jpg\" alt=\"Fat of the Land by Langdon Cook\" title=\"Fat of the Land by Langdon Cook\" width=\"300\" height=\"464\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-7987\">\u003c/a>The fig tree in my neighbor's yard--the one with lots of branches hanging temptingly over the sidewalk--is just starting to ripen its fall crop. According to California law, fruit growing in public space (hanging on a branch over a city sidewalk, for example) is public fruit, and free for the taking, as long as the picker leaves what's on the other side of the fence (or property line) alone. Going out to get yogurt and a newspaper on a Saturday morning, I'd arrive home with a foraged breakfast centerpiece of ripe sweet figs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But clearly, I've barely cracked the spine on \u003cem>Foraging for Dummies.\u003c/em> At least compared to Seattlite Langdon Cook, author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1594850070/kqedorg-20\">Fat of the Land: Adventures of a 21st Century Forager\u003c/a> for whom a daily forage might involve digging for razor clams at dusk in December, or setting up a spotlight for late-night squid jigging in January. Spearfishing for lingcod within the city limits, hand-grabbing Dungeness crab out of the Sound, dodging homeless guys to harvest choice young dandelion greens near the I-5 on-ramp. . . if you sum it up like that, Cook sounds like a pretty wild and crazy guy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Except that he's almost always eclipsed in his own narrative by the buddies who show him the ropes. With nicknames like Trouthead and Warpo, these dudes are guy's guys, passionate, risk-loving, obsessive hunter-gatherers who let Cook tag along as they head into their element: to the bank of the Columbia at dawn for shad, into a beat-up canoe on the Hood Canal for shrimp, tramping a burnt-out section of the Okanogan National Forest for morels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cook walks the walk, and dives the dive, but hard as he tries, he never quite transcends. Throughout, he remains a game but nerdy writer, less on the hunt for shrimp and sturgeon (the toothy, prehistoric-looking fish that Cook's friend Beedle describes admiringly as \"one tough hombre\") than for a certain manly authenticity that remains always a little out of his reach, no matter how many times he grabs for his pen to scribble down a colorful phrase. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What can be said about this river that hasn't already been said?\" he notes from the banks of the surging Columbia River, looking up at the power lines swooping overhead. \"I try to put myself in a dugout canoe circa 1805, but the wires keep getting in the way.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book is organized in a way familiar to readers of Mark Kurlansky or Michael Pollan: first an action narrative, then a loop through biology and ecology, a dash through the stinging nettles of climate change and ever-encroaching environmental destruction, a quick end run through socio-cultural history, then a wind-up of the narrative and a triumphant meal and recipe. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reader tags along after Cook, skimming along through his magazine-ready adventures (it's no surprise to find out that he writes frequently for publications like\u003cem> Outside\u003c/em> and \u003cem>The Stranger)\u003c/em>, learning some nifty stuff about, say, the fruiting cycles of the morel mushroom, or why hunting for Dungeness crabs during their mating season is like shooting fish in a barrel. But, just like those lurking lingcod, the truly captivating stories stay in the shadows. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What does fishing mean for the Asian grandmothers who come down night after night to fish for squid off the municipal pier where Cook shows up one evening, nervous of his status as Anglo newbie amid the bantering regulars from Cambodia and Nicaragua? Or the morel-hunting locals on the edges of a remote mountain town who saw their forest go up in smoke around them during a recent wildfire? Cook can't quite shake the knowledge that what's fun (or at least fodder for a book contract) for him is necessity for others, and neither can the reader. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, it's an intriguing read, and a way to take a fresh look at the edible abundance available for the (slightly stealthy) taking even in the heart of a sprawling American city. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you're not quite ready to free-dive for abalone yet, you can join interdisciplinary artist Julie Kahn (currently working at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.headlands.org\">Headlands Center for the Arts\u003c/a>) for a feast of wild game and foraged foods in Marin on November 15th. It's a benefit for \u003ca href=\"http://swampcabbagemovie.com\">Swamp Cabbage\u003c/a>, which Kahn and her fellow filmmaker Hayley Downs call a \"dark and sweaty\" documentary in progress tracing their personal connections to the fast-disappearing backwoods traditions of rural Florida. The multi-course menu includes chicharrones from Ryan Farr's 4505 Meats, swamp cabbage pickles, gator bites, locally hunted wild boar from Mendocino, local abalone, acorn bread, truly wild mushroom pizza, persimmon gelato foraged and made by Liana and Michael Orlandi of Mill Valley's Gelateria Ceci, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'll be baking foraged fruit turnovers for the spread, too--which means I better get up early and start stalking those succulent figs around the corner. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/papaya500.jpg\" alt=\"Green Papaya Delis namesake\" title=\"Green Papaya Delis namesake\" width=\"500\" height=\"385\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7688\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Green Papaya Deli's namesake. Photo by Rudy R.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In July, I was working on a feature article about Lao food in East Oakland for the food section of a major Bay Area daily newspaper. In very early August, a few weeks after I'd finished the first round of interviews, I found out that newspaper's food section was merging entirely with that of another large newspaper operated by the same company, gutting staff (and its already flimsy freelance budget) in a frantic cost-shearing maneuver. Since my piece addressed a unique ethnic community largely confined to a single neighborhood in one distinct part of Oakland--San Antonio--it wouldn't jive with the company's broad new regional focus. At least, that's what my freshly-canned editor told me when she delivered the bad news. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was deeply bummed--not just because I'd already logged a bunch of hours researching the article, but because the food--as well as the people I'd met, their stories, and the traditions they associated with what they enjoyed eating--seemed so deserving of attention. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first became really curious about Lao food nearly two years ago, after a tasty meal at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/champa-garden-oakland\">Champa Garden\u003c/a>, the somewhat venerable Lao restaurant on 8th Avenue east of Lake Merritt in \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Antonio,_Oakland,_California\">San Antonio\u003c/a>--one of the most diverse neighborhoods in the Bay Area, home to close-knit populations of African-Americans, Latinos, and Asians in almost equal proportions. I tried to draw distinctions between its dominant flavors and those most prevalent in the more familiar cuisines of its Southeast Asian neighbors. Like Thai, Lao thrives on interplay between sour and spicy, crunchy and soft, and both cooked and raw ingredients. The effect however is different. Extreme tastes and textures--intense, bold, lush--somehow find lovely balance in the most homespun preparations, and the combinations feel wilder, more jarring. Truly bitter greens are tossed in barely sweet lightly-dressed salads with herbs and raw marinated fish. Crispy fried rice comes wrapped in sheets of iceberg lettuce with preserved pork bits, lime, and scallions peppered throughout. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With Champa Garden as my starting point, I began a gradual tour of Lao flavors in East Oakland. First, I visited \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/vientian-cafe-oakland\">Vientian Cafe\u003c/a>, a rough-hewn eatery situated a few blocks outside the San Antonio neighborhood, on a barren block of Allendale. The food was uniformly spectacular and stunningly inexpensive. Baked sausage with lemongrass, onion, and chiles--a thin, churro-like cylinder, dark-brown, crusty, and cracked on a bed of raw shredded cabbage--and kao piak, a noodle soup with chicken, nutty fried garlic, and pork blood, particularly stood out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On several occasions, I lunched at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/green-papaya-deli-oakland\">Green Papaya Deli\u003c/a>, a tiny storefront on International Boulevard at 2nd Ave. Cynthia Senephansiri is the owner; her mother Lily cooks. For 15 years, the family owned a video store renting and selling tapes and, later, dvds of Lao and Thai films. Its market was niche to begin with, and as people bought and rented movies less and less anyway, the store's business dwindled to a dangerously frail level. About a year-and-a-half ago, Cynthia had the idea to open a restaurant. In the dearth of Lao restaurants around town she saw an opportunity to bring authentic versions of the traditional Lao dishes her family loved to people who had never before encountered them. In the beginning she had no formal restaurant experience, but now Lily spends 7 days and nights a week behind the stove in the kitchen barely visible through the window behind the counter. From time to time, she pads into the tiny dining room to make sure customers are eating the food she sends out with satisfyingly palpable enthusiasm. Lily is small, and her voice is quiet, but her smile sparkles like few I have ever seen, dwarfing everything else in the room, engulfing diners in a luminous maternal aura as she murmurs fretfully about the cleanliness of their plates. I have \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/15/lunch-hour/\">already written about Green Papaya's otherworldy Lao-style chicken soup\u003c/a>, but Lily's papaya salad--vivid, shockingly hot, and pungent with a tamarind-laced dressing made-from-scratch--deserves a very special mention. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time I visited, I ate the salad with seven chiles and gently steamed at my corner table. The second time I came through, I tried it with twelve and felt, as I desperately seized fistfuls of heat-dampening sticky rice, as if my chest might explode if I dared to down another slippery forkful. According to Lily's nephew Ken, the restaurant's waiter, his aunt will add up to twenty for the most masochistic (and showy) of chile-fiends. Of course, he had to immediately assure me that I, being white and American, could always expect to receive considerably fewer chiles than I'd request. He meant that kindly, I think, but I did feel a twinge of disappointment. I had been proud to hang, at least for half a plate, with twelve, but my \"twelve,\" as it turned out, was actually more like \"six,\" my \"seven\" just a few. Ken showed me a massive bag of the mean-looking chiles, and I felt better. They were gnarled blue spikes, each only a third the size of my pinkie--sort of like wicked appendages to a knight's armor. I was even happier to learn my personal expectations for success exceeded Ken's. He chided me for trying to eat an entire order by myself, explaining that papaya salad, especially such a molten rendering, is meant to be shared amongst three or four hungry people, as one sweet, searing passage in a harmonious array of tastes, not a meal in and of itself, or even a snack through which a solitary and stubborn ignoramus should struggle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After my second meal at Green Papaya, I met the family. Lily came to Oakland in 1981. She told me the exact date of her arrival without a moment's pause to recollect. She likes Oakland, especially the weather. The restaurant is practically in her backyard; its kitchen, she says, is hers. Assertive and business-oriented, Cynthia drew firm distinctions between Lao and Thai, the cuisine to which it's frequently compared, suggesting that Thai food in the United States tends to be marketed to American tastes, whereas Lao restaurants, far fewer in number, are usually direct extensions of home-cooking traditions. According to Cynthia, restaurants identifying as Lao tend to rep their homeland's cuisine more faithfully precisely because the cuisine has no successful Americanized tradition. Thai restaurants are immensely popular, with instantly recognizable dishes -- like tom yum and pad thai. For this reason, many Lao elect to operate Thai restaurants -- to attract customers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also met with April Kim, the program director of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.oacc.cc/\">Oakland Asian Cultural Center\u003c/a>, and Sokham Senthavilay, a Lao woman who has \u003ca href=\"http://clickblogappetit.blogspot.com/2008/06/laotian-cooking-class.html\">taught cooking classes\u003c/a> at the OACC on a few occasions. Sokham showed up with an adorable child in her arms -- perhaps a niece or a grandaughter. As the little girl sat perched on the table, staring me down calmly, her frilly dress cascading over the edge like a curtain, Sokham told her story. She left Laos in 1978. After a few months in jail and a stint at a camp in Thailand, she headed to the United States in 1980, first to Seattle, then to Texas, and finally to Oakland, along with many of her 15 siblings. She used to cook at a Thai restaurant in Oakland but couldn't stand the hours. I told her about the papaya salad mishap, and she laughed, saying that she understood. Even when you're sweating and crying, she said, you always want to eat more than you should -- because the heat makes you feel so good. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sokham believes home kitchens produce the best Lao food, and with obvious glee, described her weekend ritual in detail. Most Saturday mornings, she wakes up early and heads to the market. With her twelve brothers, sisters, and cousins helping, their own ever-expanding families milling around the house, she starts cooking at 10 a.m. and finishes by mid-afternoon: a full-blown banquet of larb, bamboo soup, papaya salad, grilled fish, and sticky rice accompanied by beer, Johnny Walker Black, and a kind of rice-derived moonshine called Lao Lao. Sokham lives around the corner from Green Papaya, but she's never been there. She rarely socializes or eats outside of her house. She agreed with Cynthia Senephansiri's claim about the scarcity of Lao restaurants. Though it's rarely advertised on menu, she added that some Thai restaurants staffed by Lao cooks can cook some dishes Lao-style if you order them that way -- like papaya salad, which she noted often tastes too sweet for her liking at Thai restaurants. She speculated Thai food might be more familiar to Americans because more Americans have been to Thailand and many more Thai immigrants have comfortably settled in this country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laos, Sokham explained, sits in the shadow of Thailand. With the end of the Second Indochina War in 1975, many Lao fled their country for fear of communist reprisals and, like Sokham, ended up in Thailand before finding their way here. Ken's grandfather was one of them too. In Laos, he had owned farms and houses, but after the war, the communist government redistributed all of his properties. Ken described his disappointment as vast and crushing. He went to Thailand and then to Cleveland, where he died after a year. From 1975 to 1996, the U.S. government resettled more than 250,000 Lao refugees in communities around the country, including an estimated 30,000 living in the Bay Area, many in East Oakland--where three modest restaurants stand as clear local evidence of Laos's gastronomic legacy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A month or so ago, I covered the \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2009/09/laod_and_proud_lao_studies_ben.php\">Center for Lao Studies' First Annual Banquet\u003c/a> for the S.F. Weekly's online presence. In an email exchange following the event, the Center's executive director Dr. Vinya Sysamouth mentioned community members had petitioned Yelp to add a category for Lao food, and that Yelp had adamantly refused. Maybe, I wondered, because none of the three Lao-identified restaurants in the Bay Area limit themselves to serving Lao food alone. Vientian Cafe and Champa Garden offer some Vietnamese and Thai dishes. On Yelp, they're respectively identified as \"Thai\" and \"Vietnamese,\" and \"Thai\" and, curiously, \"Asian Fusion.\" Green Papaya Deli has a small Thai menu because, as Lily told me, she's concerned many Americans might not eat there unless they see at least a few dishes with which they're already familiar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can find the restaurant listed under \"Thai\" and \"Deli\" on Yelp.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "I first became really curious about Lao food nearly two years ago, after a tasty meal at Champa Garden, the somewhat venerable Lao restaurant on 8th Avenue east of Lake Merritt in San Antonio--one of the most diverse neighborhoods in the Bay Area, home to close-knit populations of African-Americans, Latinos, and Asians in almost equal proportions. I tried to draw distinctions between its dominant flavors and those most prevalent in the more familiar cuisines of its Southeast Asian neighbors. Like Thai, Lao thrives on interplay between sour and spicy, crunchy and soft, and both cooked and raw ingredients. The effect however is different. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/papaya500.jpg\" alt=\"Green Papaya Delis namesake\" title=\"Green Papaya Delis namesake\" width=\"500\" height=\"385\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7688\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Green Papaya Deli's namesake. Photo by Rudy R.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In July, I was working on a feature article about Lao food in East Oakland for the food section of a major Bay Area daily newspaper. In very early August, a few weeks after I'd finished the first round of interviews, I found out that newspaper's food section was merging entirely with that of another large newspaper operated by the same company, gutting staff (and its already flimsy freelance budget) in a frantic cost-shearing maneuver. Since my piece addressed a unique ethnic community largely confined to a single neighborhood in one distinct part of Oakland--San Antonio--it wouldn't jive with the company's broad new regional focus. At least, that's what my freshly-canned editor told me when she delivered the bad news. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was deeply bummed--not just because I'd already logged a bunch of hours researching the article, but because the food--as well as the people I'd met, their stories, and the traditions they associated with what they enjoyed eating--seemed so deserving of attention. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first became really curious about Lao food nearly two years ago, after a tasty meal at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/champa-garden-oakland\">Champa Garden\u003c/a>, the somewhat venerable Lao restaurant on 8th Avenue east of Lake Merritt in \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Antonio,_Oakland,_California\">San Antonio\u003c/a>--one of the most diverse neighborhoods in the Bay Area, home to close-knit populations of African-Americans, Latinos, and Asians in almost equal proportions. I tried to draw distinctions between its dominant flavors and those most prevalent in the more familiar cuisines of its Southeast Asian neighbors. Like Thai, Lao thrives on interplay between sour and spicy, crunchy and soft, and both cooked and raw ingredients. The effect however is different. Extreme tastes and textures--intense, bold, lush--somehow find lovely balance in the most homespun preparations, and the combinations feel wilder, more jarring. Truly bitter greens are tossed in barely sweet lightly-dressed salads with herbs and raw marinated fish. Crispy fried rice comes wrapped in sheets of iceberg lettuce with preserved pork bits, lime, and scallions peppered throughout. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With Champa Garden as my starting point, I began a gradual tour of Lao flavors in East Oakland. First, I visited \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/vientian-cafe-oakland\">Vientian Cafe\u003c/a>, a rough-hewn eatery situated a few blocks outside the San Antonio neighborhood, on a barren block of Allendale. The food was uniformly spectacular and stunningly inexpensive. Baked sausage with lemongrass, onion, and chiles--a thin, churro-like cylinder, dark-brown, crusty, and cracked on a bed of raw shredded cabbage--and kao piak, a noodle soup with chicken, nutty fried garlic, and pork blood, particularly stood out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On several occasions, I lunched at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/green-papaya-deli-oakland\">Green Papaya Deli\u003c/a>, a tiny storefront on International Boulevard at 2nd Ave. Cynthia Senephansiri is the owner; her mother Lily cooks. For 15 years, the family owned a video store renting and selling tapes and, later, dvds of Lao and Thai films. Its market was niche to begin with, and as people bought and rented movies less and less anyway, the store's business dwindled to a dangerously frail level. About a year-and-a-half ago, Cynthia had the idea to open a restaurant. In the dearth of Lao restaurants around town she saw an opportunity to bring authentic versions of the traditional Lao dishes her family loved to people who had never before encountered them. In the beginning she had no formal restaurant experience, but now Lily spends 7 days and nights a week behind the stove in the kitchen barely visible through the window behind the counter. From time to time, she pads into the tiny dining room to make sure customers are eating the food she sends out with satisfyingly palpable enthusiasm. Lily is small, and her voice is quiet, but her smile sparkles like few I have ever seen, dwarfing everything else in the room, engulfing diners in a luminous maternal aura as she murmurs fretfully about the cleanliness of their plates. I have \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/15/lunch-hour/\">already written about Green Papaya's otherworldy Lao-style chicken soup\u003c/a>, but Lily's papaya salad--vivid, shockingly hot, and pungent with a tamarind-laced dressing made-from-scratch--deserves a very special mention. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time I visited, I ate the salad with seven chiles and gently steamed at my corner table. The second time I came through, I tried it with twelve and felt, as I desperately seized fistfuls of heat-dampening sticky rice, as if my chest might explode if I dared to down another slippery forkful. According to Lily's nephew Ken, the restaurant's waiter, his aunt will add up to twenty for the most masochistic (and showy) of chile-fiends. Of course, he had to immediately assure me that I, being white and American, could always expect to receive considerably fewer chiles than I'd request. He meant that kindly, I think, but I did feel a twinge of disappointment. I had been proud to hang, at least for half a plate, with twelve, but my \"twelve,\" as it turned out, was actually more like \"six,\" my \"seven\" just a few. Ken showed me a massive bag of the mean-looking chiles, and I felt better. They were gnarled blue spikes, each only a third the size of my pinkie--sort of like wicked appendages to a knight's armor. I was even happier to learn my personal expectations for success exceeded Ken's. He chided me for trying to eat an entire order by myself, explaining that papaya salad, especially such a molten rendering, is meant to be shared amongst three or four hungry people, as one sweet, searing passage in a harmonious array of tastes, not a meal in and of itself, or even a snack through which a solitary and stubborn ignoramus should struggle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After my second meal at Green Papaya, I met the family. Lily came to Oakland in 1981. She told me the exact date of her arrival without a moment's pause to recollect. She likes Oakland, especially the weather. The restaurant is practically in her backyard; its kitchen, she says, is hers. Assertive and business-oriented, Cynthia drew firm distinctions between Lao and Thai, the cuisine to which it's frequently compared, suggesting that Thai food in the United States tends to be marketed to American tastes, whereas Lao restaurants, far fewer in number, are usually direct extensions of home-cooking traditions. According to Cynthia, restaurants identifying as Lao tend to rep their homeland's cuisine more faithfully precisely because the cuisine has no successful Americanized tradition. Thai restaurants are immensely popular, with instantly recognizable dishes -- like tom yum and pad thai. For this reason, many Lao elect to operate Thai restaurants -- to attract customers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also met with April Kim, the program director of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.oacc.cc/\">Oakland Asian Cultural Center\u003c/a>, and Sokham Senthavilay, a Lao woman who has \u003ca href=\"http://clickblogappetit.blogspot.com/2008/06/laotian-cooking-class.html\">taught cooking classes\u003c/a> at the OACC on a few occasions. Sokham showed up with an adorable child in her arms -- perhaps a niece or a grandaughter. As the little girl sat perched on the table, staring me down calmly, her frilly dress cascading over the edge like a curtain, Sokham told her story. She left Laos in 1978. After a few months in jail and a stint at a camp in Thailand, she headed to the United States in 1980, first to Seattle, then to Texas, and finally to Oakland, along with many of her 15 siblings. She used to cook at a Thai restaurant in Oakland but couldn't stand the hours. I told her about the papaya salad mishap, and she laughed, saying that she understood. Even when you're sweating and crying, she said, you always want to eat more than you should -- because the heat makes you feel so good. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sokham believes home kitchens produce the best Lao food, and with obvious glee, described her weekend ritual in detail. Most Saturday mornings, she wakes up early and heads to the market. With her twelve brothers, sisters, and cousins helping, their own ever-expanding families milling around the house, she starts cooking at 10 a.m. and finishes by mid-afternoon: a full-blown banquet of larb, bamboo soup, papaya salad, grilled fish, and sticky rice accompanied by beer, Johnny Walker Black, and a kind of rice-derived moonshine called Lao Lao. Sokham lives around the corner from Green Papaya, but she's never been there. She rarely socializes or eats outside of her house. She agreed with Cynthia Senephansiri's claim about the scarcity of Lao restaurants. Though it's rarely advertised on menu, she added that some Thai restaurants staffed by Lao cooks can cook some dishes Lao-style if you order them that way -- like papaya salad, which she noted often tastes too sweet for her liking at Thai restaurants. She speculated Thai food might be more familiar to Americans because more Americans have been to Thailand and many more Thai immigrants have comfortably settled in this country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laos, Sokham explained, sits in the shadow of Thailand. With the end of the Second Indochina War in 1975, many Lao fled their country for fear of communist reprisals and, like Sokham, ended up in Thailand before finding their way here. Ken's grandfather was one of them too. In Laos, he had owned farms and houses, but after the war, the communist government redistributed all of his properties. Ken described his disappointment as vast and crushing. He went to Thailand and then to Cleveland, where he died after a year. From 1975 to 1996, the U.S. government resettled more than 250,000 Lao refugees in communities around the country, including an estimated 30,000 living in the Bay Area, many in East Oakland--where three modest restaurants stand as clear local evidence of Laos's gastronomic legacy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A month or so ago, I covered the \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2009/09/laod_and_proud_lao_studies_ben.php\">Center for Lao Studies' First Annual Banquet\u003c/a> for the S.F. Weekly's online presence. In an email exchange following the event, the Center's executive director Dr. Vinya Sysamouth mentioned community members had petitioned Yelp to add a category for Lao food, and that Yelp had adamantly refused. Maybe, I wondered, because none of the three Lao-identified restaurants in the Bay Area limit themselves to serving Lao food alone. Vientian Cafe and Champa Garden offer some Vietnamese and Thai dishes. On Yelp, they're respectively identified as \"Thai\" and \"Vietnamese,\" and \"Thai\" and, curiously, \"Asian Fusion.\" Green Papaya Deli has a small Thai menu because, as Lily told me, she's concerned many Americans might not eat there unless they see at least a few dishes with which they're already familiar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/maple-bacon-donuts300.jpg\" alt=\"maple bacon dynamo donuts\" title=\"maple bacon dynamo donuts\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7641\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco is a brunch town through and through. And I'm always down for a nice eggs benedict or a stack of blueberry pancakes. But everyday can't be Sunday. Most of us have day jobs and can't lounge around cafes late into the afternoon hours. So here are a few of my favorite spots for quick, creative, inspiring breakfasts around the city. One is a bit gluttonous, the other earnestly healthy, and the last sloppy but satisfying. So while dining trends will always come and go, breakfast is staying put. Sometimes mom knew what she was talking about: it is the most important meal of the day.\u003cbr clear=\"all\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/fraiche-exterior300.jpg\" alt=\"fraiche exterior\" title=\"fraiche exterior\" width=\"300\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7647\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Good: Fraîche\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI first stumbled across Fraîche while wandering around downtown Palo Alto. This was around the same time when frozen yogurt shops were opening on (seemingly) every street corner in San Francisco, and I’ll admit, I was one of the people in those long lines. But if you're like me, you're a little burned out on the tart treat and the neon décor. Fraîche is different. Trust me. The frozen yogurt has more of a creamy, subtly tart flavor than other competitors, they use \u003ca href=\"http://www.cloverpetaluma.com/\">organic Clover milk\u003c/a>, and owner Patama Gur spent a long time perfecting her special blend of probiotic cultures--and it shows. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to frozen yogurt, Fraîche also does a thick, housemade unfrozen 2% yogurt. When I first visited the shop on Fillmore recently, I ordered the frozen yogurt with pureed apricots and my friend opted for the unfrozen version with raspberries and peaches. I have to say, I had entrée envy. While mine was delicious, the unfrozen yogurt is unlike anything I've ever had. Think Greek yogurt on steroids. As we were leaving, I noticed the breakfast menu and their early morning hours, and vowed to come back for a quick and healthy breakfast before work. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/fraiche-parfait300.jpg\" alt=\"fraiche parfait\" title=\"fraiche parfait\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7648\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can get breakfast to eat-in or take-out. The menu is simple and centered around the unfrozen yogurt, fresh fruits, housemade granola, and steel-cut oats. I tried the Toasted Nut and Berry Sundae: yogurt with fresh berries, housemade granola, toasted almonds, and local wildflower honey ($5.50). The nice guy constructing my lovely \"sundae\" mentioned that the SF Chronicle Special has been the most popular, with steel-cut oatmeal and a choice of fresh yogurt and fruit and nut toppings ($5.95). And these aren't your average toppings. From bright pureed fruits and local honeys to shaved \u003ca href=\"http://www.callebaut.com/\">Callebaut\u003c/a> chocolate to-order, the toppings are as conscious as the yogurt itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So after finishing the \u003ca href=\"http://inside.nike.com/blogs/nikerunning_events-en_US/?tags=nike_womens_marathon\">Nike Marathon\u003c/a> recently and being told by many friends that I’d have to try and taper my ravenous appetite to account for the decrease in physical activity, I've tried to opt for breakfasts that don't include numerous pieces of toast or stacks of pancakes. And for that, Fraîche is here for me. With a cup of \u003ca href=\"http://bluebottlecoffee.net/\">Blue Bottle coffee\u003c/a> (they start serving the premium coffee next week) and a seat at one of the sleek wooden tables, experience morning the way it should be experienced: simple and thoughtful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fraicheyogurt.com/\">Fraîche\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1910 Fillmore Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94115\u003cbr>\n(415) 674-6876\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon.-Thurs. 7am-11 pm; Fri. 7am-12am;\u003cbr>\nSat. 8:30am-12am; Sun. 8:30am-11pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/dynamo-exterior500.jpg\" alt=\"dynamo donut exterior\" title=\"dynamo donut exterior\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7645\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The \"Bad\": Dynamo Donuts\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nNestled amongst the Mexican grocery stores and panaderia's on 24th St., sits Sara Spearin’s sweet little donut shop. It’s \"bad\" in the best possible way. There are a few critics who scoff at charging $3 for one donut. But the truth is, I'd pay $3 over and over for what Spearin and crew are doing in the Dynamo kitchen. It’s something that San Francisco has yet to see--an artisan, organic, awesome donut. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before getting to the donuts, a quick aside: I was a vegetarian for almost fifteen years. About a year ago now, I started eating meat again. Once I decided to go for the gusto, something strange happened: I couldn't get enough bacon. And this was certainly fine timing, as bacon has become rather trendy in the last year or so. From \u003ca href=\"http://baconpotatochips.com/\">bacon potato chips\u003c/a> to \u003ca href=\"http://www.recchiuti.com/261.html?area=00;id=e2LshBrk\">bacon chocolate confections\u003c/a>, it seems like the much-loved pork product is everywhere these days. So while I understand many folks are over the bacon-in-everything trend, I'm still on a bacon high. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/donuts500.jpg\" alt=\"dynamo donuts\" title=\"dynamo donuts\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7644\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had my first bacon maple donut at \u003ca href=\"http://www.voodoodoughnut.com/\">Voodoo Doughnut\u003c/a> in Portland, Or. I thought they were pretty good: the donut was light and airy (albeit quite large), the maple glaze rocked, and they put strips of real bacon on top. The bacon itself was a little weird and greasy, but I figured all bacon donuts were that way. Then, a few weeks ago, I went to Dynamo for the first time. Now I know: all bacon maple donuts are not created equal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While it looks like a simple donut window from the street, there is an entrance leading to a huge open kitchen and a quaint seating area where couples sit with steaming cups of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fourbarrelcoffee.com/\">Four Barrel coffee\u003c/a> and a donut or two. The buzz from the open kitchen is infectious: five women with cute vintage aprons are busily pumping out donuts while laughing and telling stories. They seem genuinely psyched to be there--and it shows in the product. The donuts themselves are special. For the most part, they’re cakey and have a bit of heft (think old-fashioned donuts of your childhood). I tried the chocolate saffron, which has a very light hint of citrus and a subtle warmth from the saffron. Next I moved on to the caramel del sel, flavored with nutmeg and topped with a caramel glaze and fleur de sel. Then I picked up a few of the apple bacon maple donuts to bring in to work. Unlike the one at Voodoo, the bacon was in small bits sprinkled on top of the donut and wasn’t at all greasy. And the little bits of apple are actually sautéed in bacon fat, resulting in a fabulous salty and sweet flavor. It really is the perfect donut. So with a motto of \"EVERYDAY is bacon donut day!\" there's not a place I'd rather frequent more at the moment. And even if you’re not a recovering vegetarian with a constant hankering for salty meats, there are many other well-crafted donuts to choose from.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dynamodonut.com/index.html\">Dynamo Donut\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/dynamodonut\">@dynamodonut\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2760 24th Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\n(415) 920-1978\u003cbr>\nHours: Tues.-Sat. 7am-5pm; Sun. 9am-4pm; closed Mon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/hazels-exterior300.jpg\" alt=\"hazels exterior\" title=\"hazels exterior\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7649\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Ugly: Hazel's Kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHazel's Kitchen is very Potrero Hill. For those of you familiar with the neighborhood, I know you feel me. For those who have no idea what I'm talking about, they do a lot of things right, but one of them isn’t necessarily speedy or efficient customer service. It's laid back, it’s independent, and they scoff a little if you try to pay with a credit card. Much like \u003ca href=\"http://www.farleyscoffee.com/\">Farley's Coffee\u003c/a> next door, I often get blank stares or confused looks when I ask a simple question.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Hazel's is much loved as a little neighborhood lunch counter with great sandwiches and soups. And that they are. While they’re generally booming at lunch, not as many folks know that they do a really great breakfast burrito. Now I know some of you may be ready to stop reading right about now. I know--I get it. I have a strained relationship with the breakfast burrito as well. Sometimes they're not hot all the way through; sometimes they're soggy. There's nothing like cold, watery eggs to get you going in the morning. But Hazel's burritos are none of those things. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What Hazel's burritos are--the thing that places them in the ugly category--is deliciously messy. It's not a good choice for eating while walking to work or chowing down in the car. You must sit down with a stack of napkins (and a fork would be preferable) to enjoy a Hazels' breakfast burrito. Messiness aside, the nice thing about Hazel’s is the simplicity. The breakfast burrito has eggs, cheese, avocado, salsa and a choice of chorizo, ham, bacon or tofu ($6.95). The ratio of ingredients is perfect: not too much cheese or salsa--where many breakfast burritos fail. And I'm not sure how they get the burrito so delightfully hot without losing the integrity of the avocado, but after seventeen years in business, they obviously know what they’re doing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/breakfast-burrito500.jpg\" alt=\"breakfast burrito\" title=\"breakfast burrito\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7642\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Can you find a cheaper breakfast burrito over in the Mission? Sure. Can you find a more authentic, Mexican breakfast burrito? Absolutely. But I can't guarantee that it won’t be soggy, hot all the way through, or busting with fresh ingredients. You just can't help but fall a little bit in love with Hazel's pastel, vintage kitsch and the messy morning madness of the breakfast burrito. Dig in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://hazelskitchen.com/home.html\">Hazel's Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1319 18th Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107\u003cbr>\n(415) 647-7941\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon.-Sat. 8 am-4 pm; Sun. 8:30 am-4 pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Featured Recipe: Fraîche's Spiced Yogurt Muffin\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nOwner Patama Gur says they bake these muffins each morning as they really typify what Fraîche does: provide customers healthy, delicious that don't sacrifice on taste. These muffins were developed for Fraîche by Batter Bakery, and use Fraîche's low-fat unfrozen yogurt and applesauce instead of a lot of butter and oils to create an amazing treat that is less than 100 calories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 cups flour\u003cbr>\n1 cup brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1 Tbsp. baking powder\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp. salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp. baking soda\u003cbr>\n2 tsp. cinnamon\u003cbr>\n1 tsp. allspice\u003cbr>\n1 tsp. nutmeg\u003cbr>\n1 tsp. cloves\u003cbr>\n2 large eggs, at room temperature\u003cbr>\n1 ½ cups. yogurt, room temperature\u003cbr>\n4 Tbsp. melted butter\u003cbr>\n1/4 cups unsweetened applesauce\u003cbr>\n1 tsp. vanilla\u003cbr>\n(For the topping: 2 Tbsp. sugar + ¼ tsp. nutmeg) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.\u003cbr>\n2. Line 8 large or 14 to 16 standard muffin pans with paper muffin cups.\u003cbr>\n3. Whisk together dry ingredients in a large bowl until well combined.\u003cbr>\n4. In another small bowl, whisk eggs, yogurt, butter, applesauce, and vanilla. Add to flour mixture and mix together until just combined.\u003cbr>\n5. Scoop evenly into muffin cups and sprinkle with sugar nutmeg mixture.\u003cbr>\n6. Bake 18-20 minutes or until tester comes out clean.\u003cbr>\n Serve warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> 8 large or 14 standard-sized muffins\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/maple-bacon-donuts300.jpg\" alt=\"maple bacon dynamo donuts\" title=\"maple bacon dynamo donuts\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7641\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco is a brunch town through and through. And I'm always down for a nice eggs benedict or a stack of blueberry pancakes. But everyday can't be Sunday. Most of us have day jobs and can't lounge around cafes late into the afternoon hours. So here are a few of my favorite spots for quick, creative, inspiring breakfasts around the city. One is a bit gluttonous, the other earnestly healthy, and the last sloppy but satisfying. So while dining trends will always come and go, breakfast is staying put. Sometimes mom knew what she was talking about: it is the most important meal of the day.\u003cbr clear=\"all\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/fraiche-exterior300.jpg\" alt=\"fraiche exterior\" title=\"fraiche exterior\" width=\"300\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7647\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Good: Fraîche\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI first stumbled across Fraîche while wandering around downtown Palo Alto. This was around the same time when frozen yogurt shops were opening on (seemingly) every street corner in San Francisco, and I’ll admit, I was one of the people in those long lines. But if you're like me, you're a little burned out on the tart treat and the neon décor. Fraîche is different. Trust me. The frozen yogurt has more of a creamy, subtly tart flavor than other competitors, they use \u003ca href=\"http://www.cloverpetaluma.com/\">organic Clover milk\u003c/a>, and owner Patama Gur spent a long time perfecting her special blend of probiotic cultures--and it shows. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to frozen yogurt, Fraîche also does a thick, housemade unfrozen 2% yogurt. When I first visited the shop on Fillmore recently, I ordered the frozen yogurt with pureed apricots and my friend opted for the unfrozen version with raspberries and peaches. I have to say, I had entrée envy. While mine was delicious, the unfrozen yogurt is unlike anything I've ever had. Think Greek yogurt on steroids. As we were leaving, I noticed the breakfast menu and their early morning hours, and vowed to come back for a quick and healthy breakfast before work. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/fraiche-parfait300.jpg\" alt=\"fraiche parfait\" title=\"fraiche parfait\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7648\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can get breakfast to eat-in or take-out. The menu is simple and centered around the unfrozen yogurt, fresh fruits, housemade granola, and steel-cut oats. I tried the Toasted Nut and Berry Sundae: yogurt with fresh berries, housemade granola, toasted almonds, and local wildflower honey ($5.50). The nice guy constructing my lovely \"sundae\" mentioned that the SF Chronicle Special has been the most popular, with steel-cut oatmeal and a choice of fresh yogurt and fruit and nut toppings ($5.95). And these aren't your average toppings. From bright pureed fruits and local honeys to shaved \u003ca href=\"http://www.callebaut.com/\">Callebaut\u003c/a> chocolate to-order, the toppings are as conscious as the yogurt itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So after finishing the \u003ca href=\"http://inside.nike.com/blogs/nikerunning_events-en_US/?tags=nike_womens_marathon\">Nike Marathon\u003c/a> recently and being told by many friends that I’d have to try and taper my ravenous appetite to account for the decrease in physical activity, I've tried to opt for breakfasts that don't include numerous pieces of toast or stacks of pancakes. And for that, Fraîche is here for me. With a cup of \u003ca href=\"http://bluebottlecoffee.net/\">Blue Bottle coffee\u003c/a> (they start serving the premium coffee next week) and a seat at one of the sleek wooden tables, experience morning the way it should be experienced: simple and thoughtful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fraicheyogurt.com/\">Fraîche\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1910 Fillmore Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94115\u003cbr>\n(415) 674-6876\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon.-Thurs. 7am-11 pm; Fri. 7am-12am;\u003cbr>\nSat. 8:30am-12am; Sun. 8:30am-11pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/dynamo-exterior500.jpg\" alt=\"dynamo donut exterior\" title=\"dynamo donut exterior\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7645\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The \"Bad\": Dynamo Donuts\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nNestled amongst the Mexican grocery stores and panaderia's on 24th St., sits Sara Spearin’s sweet little donut shop. It’s \"bad\" in the best possible way. There are a few critics who scoff at charging $3 for one donut. But the truth is, I'd pay $3 over and over for what Spearin and crew are doing in the Dynamo kitchen. It’s something that San Francisco has yet to see--an artisan, organic, awesome donut. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before getting to the donuts, a quick aside: I was a vegetarian for almost fifteen years. About a year ago now, I started eating meat again. Once I decided to go for the gusto, something strange happened: I couldn't get enough bacon. And this was certainly fine timing, as bacon has become rather trendy in the last year or so. From \u003ca href=\"http://baconpotatochips.com/\">bacon potato chips\u003c/a> to \u003ca href=\"http://www.recchiuti.com/261.html?area=00;id=e2LshBrk\">bacon chocolate confections\u003c/a>, it seems like the much-loved pork product is everywhere these days. So while I understand many folks are over the bacon-in-everything trend, I'm still on a bacon high. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/donuts500.jpg\" alt=\"dynamo donuts\" title=\"dynamo donuts\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7644\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had my first bacon maple donut at \u003ca href=\"http://www.voodoodoughnut.com/\">Voodoo Doughnut\u003c/a> in Portland, Or. I thought they were pretty good: the donut was light and airy (albeit quite large), the maple glaze rocked, and they put strips of real bacon on top. The bacon itself was a little weird and greasy, but I figured all bacon donuts were that way. Then, a few weeks ago, I went to Dynamo for the first time. Now I know: all bacon maple donuts are not created equal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While it looks like a simple donut window from the street, there is an entrance leading to a huge open kitchen and a quaint seating area where couples sit with steaming cups of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fourbarrelcoffee.com/\">Four Barrel coffee\u003c/a> and a donut or two. The buzz from the open kitchen is infectious: five women with cute vintage aprons are busily pumping out donuts while laughing and telling stories. They seem genuinely psyched to be there--and it shows in the product. The donuts themselves are special. For the most part, they’re cakey and have a bit of heft (think old-fashioned donuts of your childhood). I tried the chocolate saffron, which has a very light hint of citrus and a subtle warmth from the saffron. Next I moved on to the caramel del sel, flavored with nutmeg and topped with a caramel glaze and fleur de sel. Then I picked up a few of the apple bacon maple donuts to bring in to work. Unlike the one at Voodoo, the bacon was in small bits sprinkled on top of the donut and wasn’t at all greasy. And the little bits of apple are actually sautéed in bacon fat, resulting in a fabulous salty and sweet flavor. It really is the perfect donut. So with a motto of \"EVERYDAY is bacon donut day!\" there's not a place I'd rather frequent more at the moment. And even if you’re not a recovering vegetarian with a constant hankering for salty meats, there are many other well-crafted donuts to choose from.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.dynamodonut.com/index.html\">Dynamo Donut\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/dynamodonut\">@dynamodonut\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2760 24th Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\n(415) 920-1978\u003cbr>\nHours: Tues.-Sat. 7am-5pm; Sun. 9am-4pm; closed Mon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/hazels-exterior300.jpg\" alt=\"hazels exterior\" title=\"hazels exterior\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7649\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Ugly: Hazel's Kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHazel's Kitchen is very Potrero Hill. For those of you familiar with the neighborhood, I know you feel me. For those who have no idea what I'm talking about, they do a lot of things right, but one of them isn’t necessarily speedy or efficient customer service. It's laid back, it’s independent, and they scoff a little if you try to pay with a credit card. Much like \u003ca href=\"http://www.farleyscoffee.com/\">Farley's Coffee\u003c/a> next door, I often get blank stares or confused looks when I ask a simple question.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Hazel's is much loved as a little neighborhood lunch counter with great sandwiches and soups. And that they are. While they’re generally booming at lunch, not as many folks know that they do a really great breakfast burrito. Now I know some of you may be ready to stop reading right about now. I know--I get it. I have a strained relationship with the breakfast burrito as well. Sometimes they're not hot all the way through; sometimes they're soggy. There's nothing like cold, watery eggs to get you going in the morning. But Hazel's burritos are none of those things. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What Hazel's burritos are--the thing that places them in the ugly category--is deliciously messy. It's not a good choice for eating while walking to work or chowing down in the car. You must sit down with a stack of napkins (and a fork would be preferable) to enjoy a Hazels' breakfast burrito. Messiness aside, the nice thing about Hazel’s is the simplicity. The breakfast burrito has eggs, cheese, avocado, salsa and a choice of chorizo, ham, bacon or tofu ($6.95). The ratio of ingredients is perfect: not too much cheese or salsa--where many breakfast burritos fail. And I'm not sure how they get the burrito so delightfully hot without losing the integrity of the avocado, but after seventeen years in business, they obviously know what they’re doing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/breakfast-burrito500.jpg\" alt=\"breakfast burrito\" title=\"breakfast burrito\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7642\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Can you find a cheaper breakfast burrito over in the Mission? Sure. Can you find a more authentic, Mexican breakfast burrito? Absolutely. But I can't guarantee that it won’t be soggy, hot all the way through, or busting with fresh ingredients. You just can't help but fall a little bit in love with Hazel's pastel, vintage kitsch and the messy morning madness of the breakfast burrito. Dig in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://hazelskitchen.com/home.html\">Hazel's Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1319 18th Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107\u003cbr>\n(415) 647-7941\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon.-Sat. 8 am-4 pm; Sun. 8:30 am-4 pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Featured Recipe: Fraîche's Spiced Yogurt Muffin\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nOwner Patama Gur says they bake these muffins each morning as they really typify what Fraîche does: provide customers healthy, delicious that don't sacrifice on taste. These muffins were developed for Fraîche by Batter Bakery, and use Fraîche's low-fat unfrozen yogurt and applesauce instead of a lot of butter and oils to create an amazing treat that is less than 100 calories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 cups flour\u003cbr>\n1 cup brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1 Tbsp. baking powder\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp. salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp. baking soda\u003cbr>\n2 tsp. cinnamon\u003cbr>\n1 tsp. allspice\u003cbr>\n1 tsp. nutmeg\u003cbr>\n1 tsp. cloves\u003cbr>\n2 large eggs, at room temperature\u003cbr>\n1 ½ cups. yogurt, room temperature\u003cbr>\n4 Tbsp. melted butter\u003cbr>\n1/4 cups unsweetened applesauce\u003cbr>\n1 tsp. vanilla\u003cbr>\n(For the topping: 2 Tbsp. sugar + ¼ tsp. nutmeg) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.\u003cbr>\n2. Line 8 large or 14 to 16 standard muffin pans with paper muffin cups.\u003cbr>\n3. Whisk together dry ingredients in a large bowl until well combined.\u003cbr>\n4. In another small bowl, whisk eggs, yogurt, butter, applesauce, and vanilla. Add to flour mixture and mix together until just combined.\u003cbr>\n5. Scoop evenly into muffin cups and sprinkle with sugar nutmeg mixture.\u003cbr>\n6. Bake 18-20 minutes or until tester comes out clean.\u003cbr>\n Serve warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Devouring Dogpatch: A Historic Neighborhood Comes Into its Own",
"title": "Devouring Dogpatch: A Historic Neighborhood Comes Into its Own",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/dogpatch-300.jpg\" alt=\"dogpatch neighborhood in san francisco\" title=\"dogpatch neighborhood in san francisco\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-7347\">\u003cem>Men's Journal\u003c/em> recently dubbed it one of America's best neighborhoods. The San Francisco Chapter of the Hells Angels is still there, and it may not be in your tourist guidebook. Nonetheless, the Dogpatch neighborhood is getting a lot of buzz lately. Where the heavy industry used to be, a burgeoning arts district and dining scene has popped up--particularly around the intersection of 22nd and 3rd. In 2003, the neighborhood was voted an official historic district of San Francisco--helped by the fact that it was relatively untouched by the 1906 earthquake and fire. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Dogpatch is a nine square-block area below and to the East of Potrero Hill. More specifically, it's bounded by Mariposa Street to the North, Tubbs Street (23rd) to the South, Highway 280 to the West, and Illinois Street to the East. Part of its growth and popularity can certainly be attributed to its proximity to Potrero Hill, SOMA and downtown--and to the lightrail constructed a few years ago. Currently there is a lively debate regarding land-use issues, and worker's cottages and historic homes are being overshadowed by loft-style condos and the looming biotech industry. But never fear: its gritty, urban veneer is alive and well. So before you try to predict what will become of one of the last authentic neighborhoods in San Francisco, cruise around the Dogpatch for a handcrafted latte, a quaint Sunday brunch, or a sandwich at a pop-up lunch venue.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003cbr>\n \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/piccino-coffee-500.jpg\" alt=\"piccino coffee bar\" title=\"piccino coffee bar\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7348\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Piccino Coffee Bar:\u003c/strong> My favorite city is Paris. And on the rare San Francisco afternoon, strolling along a quiet side street, discovering a sweet little bakery or street-side flower shop, I’ll have a \"Paris\" moment. I had such a moment recently while aimlessly walking around the Dogpatch listening to the new \"Where the Wild Things Are\" soundtrack (amazing) and marveling at the unusually hot temperature (like close neighbor Potrero Hill, the Dogpatch is often the sunniest, warmest spot in the city). The first thing to notice about Piccino Coffee Bar is its minimalism: it's essentially a coffee counter with a small but lovely selection of crumbly scones, biscotti, muffins, housemade yogurt, hardboiled farm-fresh eggs, and grab-and-go sandwiches. And of course, coffee--and Blue Bottle coffee, at that. There isn't any seating and they have a big front window that opens in the afternoons, releasing wafts of richly roasted coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's always really nice when you fall in love with a spot only to learn later that they're committed to using sustainable products and sourcing from local artisans whenever possible--and that they deeply care about their impact on the community. Such is the case with Piccino Coffee Bar. A few of the local vendors they use include Fatted Calf, Andante Diary, Prather Ranch, and Star Route Farms. The standout beverage? The mocha. And let me just say I'm really not a mocha kind of girl. As I enter my (gasp) 30's, I need the strong punch of black coffee in the morning--or sometimes I'll opt for the occasional Americano or latte. But a mocha always seems more like dessert, more frivolous than utilitarian. However, Piccino's isn't cloyingly sweet and still tastes of strong, bold espresso. So many other coffeehouses rely on chocolate made with added sugars and thickeners, but Piccino Coffee Bar uses a special Recchiuti chocolate blend specially designed for them. They actually hand melt it in your cup. Last time I checked, Starbucks wasn't providing that service. And I love that they're not messing around with the caffeine: a small 8 oz. latte automatically comes with two shots. That's what I’m talking about first thing Monday morning. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To remember what a neighborhood coffee shop is really like, stroll into Piccino Coffee Bar. It's not fast, the whole ordering process is a little disorganized, you may wonder why they don’t have more than one person making drinks. But quaint, legitimate neighborhood coffee shops that focus on the quality and the craft of the drink are a dying breed. Do yourself a favor: remind yourself what they're like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.piccinocafe.com/\">Piccino Coffee Bar\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n801 22nd St., SF\u003cbr>\n(415) 824-4224\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon.-Fri. 7am-5pm; Sat.-Sun. 8am-5pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/kitchenette-500.jpg\" alt=\"kitchenette SF\" title=\"kitchenette SF\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7353\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kitchenette SF\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLunch is having its day in the sun right now. Whether you prefer the carts, counters, bike delivery salumi dudes--it's all out there. But you also get the sense that, while unique and undeniably cool, many of these trends are fleeting. However, Douglas Monsalud and crew at Kitchenette SF serve beautifully constructed sandwiches, a few side salads, a \"cookie of the moment,\" and a housemade beverage from a menu that changes daily--and I can guarantee you, they're here to stay. While the location is unassuming (a loading dock in an industrial strip in the Dogpatch), the food is anything but.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I invited my dad to come along and get a bite to eat recently. He appreciates new neighborhoods, thoughtful food, and innovative design--and I'd heard that Kitchenette SF had all three. Now, first things first: it's tucked away and not easy to find. But sometimes the things you have to really search for taste all the sweeter. We ended up parking before we spotted it, opting to find it on foot rather than driving around the block...again. You'll know you're getting warmer when you see a chalkboard sign out on the sidewalk. Cruise into the loading dock where smells of warm cookies commingle with the noises of businesses unloading goods and trucks backing in to make a delivery. There are some stairs leading into Kitchenette SF's loading dock and a little counter displaying the daily specials. After you order, linger and wait for your name to be called or head down the steps to snag a coveted bench, scattered haphazardly amongst the concrete below. It's all very urban. It's a little hipster. If the food weren’t good, I might think it was a little too cool for school. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I ordered the Marin Sun Farms' pork schnitzel sandwich with braised cabbage and pink lady apples, a peanut butter/butterscotch cookie, and organic strawberry soda with local seltzer. We shared a bag of 4505 chicharrones (ah, after being a vegetarian for twelve years, nothing makes up for lost time like a bag of salty pig skin). The sandwich had a perfect balance of flavors: a crunch and sweetness from the apple, a little kick from the braised cabbage, a light and chewy Acme roll. Although I write about food often, I can't say that sandwiches often bowl me over. That being said, I talked about this sandwich for days afterwards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More recently, I snuck away from work and ordered the \"Warehouse Picnic,\" consisting of fried Rocky Jr. chicken, a deviled egg, potato salad, corn-jalapeno salad, pasta salad with tomato vinaigrette, farmstead cheese, and Acme bread. Summer perfectly encapsulated in a box. Kitchenette SF has seriously redefined fast food. It's all organic, and most of the ingredients are sourced from local farms--Monsalud says he actually hits up the farms on his days off and, in addition to knowing where the food comes from, he often even knows which row! There's a very deep connection to the origin and meaning of the food they serve--and it shows. Check their website or twitter feed to get information on the daily menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchenettesf.com\">Kitchenette SF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n958 Illinois, SF.\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/kitchenettesf\">@kitchenettesf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n Hours: Mon.-Fri., 11:30am-1:30pm \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/serpentine-interior-300.jpg\" alt=\"serpentine interior\" title=\"serpentine interior\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7356\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serpentine\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy friend Anthony was visiting from New York about a month ago, and I was trying to show him a very authentic San Francisco beyond the obvious tourist attractions. Anthony's a little hipster. You know the type: tight jeans, spectacles, deliberately messy hair, and a faux-leather satchel bag. So I was trying to introduce him to spots that were a little edgy, a little grungy, a little off the radar. Enter: the Dogpatch and Serpentine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owned by Erin Rooney (of Slow Club fame), Serpentine is located in the former warehouse of a tin-can factory boiler's room. Because of its high ceilings, large windows, and sea glass fixtures, it almost feels more like a large artist's loft rather than a bustling place of business. Adding to that whimsical feeling: much of the normal din of a restaurant is missing. Mid-day on a sunny Sunday and it was crowded but strangely quiet. It's got to have something to do with the acoustics of the building--regardless, I have to say, with constant refills of coffee and good conversation, we could've sat there all day enjoying the peaceful morning. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, for the food. I am often prone to hyperbole. I'm not sure where I got this trait, but for those that know me, it's a very real fact. But believe me when I tell you that the dish I had at Serpentine was the most perfect brunch dish I've ever had. Although their menu is seasonal, the \"Red Flannel Hash\" seems to be a staple. It consists of chunks of beautifully roasted beets, potatoes, Prather Ranch beef brisket, two poached eggs, and spinach. It's filling but not in a 'stack of pancakes' kind of way. More in a fresh, balanced, satiated kind of way. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/serpentine-redhash-500.jpg\" alt=\"Serpentine red flannel hash\" title=\"Serpentine red flannel hash\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7362\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also tried the Alaskan sockeye salmon benedict with fried green tomatoes, pickled red onion, and lemon cucumber. We were definitely bummed that the fried green tomatoes were noticeably absent, but the salmon was cooked perfectly and the hollandaise sauce was surprisingly light and creamy. We also tried the buckwheat strawberry pancakes. Now I'm one of those people that doesn't like to order something at a restaurants that I can make well at home. Pancakes fall into that category. But something is different about Serpentine's flapjacks: they actually have large pieces of strawberry cooked into them, and are served with lots of butter and incredibly rich syrup. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All in all, the food was seasonal, conscious, and well executed. This may be my new favorite brunch spot as it seems the usual see-and-be-seen weekend crowd hasn't yet descended, so there isn't an obscenely long wait and you don't feel guilty lingering over numerous cups of coffee. Which is exactly what we did. Anthony went back to Brooklyn satiated--and hungry to return.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://serpentinesf.com\">Serpentine\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2495 3rd St., SF.\u003cbr>\n(415) 252-2000\u003cbr>\nHours:\u003cbr>\nBrunch: Sat and Sun: 10:00am-2:30pm\u003cbr>\nLunch: Mon - Fri: 11:30am-2:30pm\u003cbr>\nDinner: Tues - Sat: 6:00pm-10:00pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/just-for-you-exterior-500.jpg\" alt=\"Just For You exterior\" title=\"Just For You exterior\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7357\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Just For You Cafe\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI've been on a bit of a beignet binge lately. Blame it on the cooler mornings and evenings, the fact I'm training for a marathon and feel entitled to eat whatever (and whenever I'd like), or the depressing economy--whatever the reason, I've been turning to little fried pillows of dough for comfort. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Just For You Cafe is coming through for me. This neighborhood spot used to be located on 18th St. in Potrero Hill, but in 2002 they moved to their current location in the Dogpatch. Their tagline: \"We served slow food before it was popular.\" And they're not kidding: they use local charcuterie and Zoe's all natural meats, eggs from Petaluma farms, the bread they don't make on-site they buy from Acme, and the seafood and produce is mostly all local. Their emphasis is on Southern and American style cooking, with specialties like Hatch green chili huevos rancheros, creamy grits, and Creole crab cakes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few weeks ago, I was over that way visiting a friend and we decided to pop in after seeing the prominent \"Beignets\" sign in the window. It was pretty darn crowded--people bring their dogs, toddlers, the Sunday paper, out-of-town parents...and all gather waiting for a table indoors. Thankfully they provide a free coffee cart outside so you can fill up a cup and hang out on the curb. Life could be much worse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/just-for-you-beignet-500.jpg\" alt=\"Just For You beignets\" title=\"Just For You beignets\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7359\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We waited about a half hour, and were eventually seated at this little booth table all the way to the back of the restaurant. Right by the kitchen--on an unusually hot day. Nothing like a little sweat on the brow to inspire heavy beignet consumption. But we managed. Just For You Cafe serves a plate of three beignets, self-proclaimed \"fresh, fluffy pillows of perfection.\" I would have to agree. While their beignets definitely have a little more heft than others served throughout the city, they are worth the trip. After years and years in business, they've perfected the perfect dusting of powdered sugar and the light brown, buttery exterior. Eat them right when they arrive warm: our table noticed once they cooled down, they became a bit chewy (not really what you want in your \"fluffy pillow of perfection\"). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to our little pockets of fried dough, we tried the \"Crabby Bennie,\" Louisiana sausage, and biscuits. The Creole crabcake atop the traditional eggs benedict rocked. I love a good crabcake--and they're surprisingly tough to find. But here it's all about the crab (versus all about the breadcrumbs, leaving you wondering if there's even any crab present). And the biscuits, while we both felt they could've been lighter and flakier, had a nice crumb and traditional baking soda flavor. So while it looks like a typical greasy spoon from the outside (and inside, really), this little diner's got class. Owner Arienne Landry's proving that, with quality ingredients and local products, Southern comfort food can be mastered right here in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.justforyoucafe.com/\">Just For You Cafe\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n732 22nd, SF.\u003cbr>\n(415) 647-3033\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon.-Tue. 7:30 a.m.-3:00 p.m.\u003cbr>\nWed.-Fri. 7:30 a.m.-9:00 p.m. (now serving dinner)\u003cbr>\nSat.-Sun. 8:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m.\u003cbr>\nCash only\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Featured Recipe:\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Peanut Butter Oatmeal Cookies w/Butterscotch Chips\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFrom Kitchenette SF\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n7.5 oz butter\u003cbr>\n6 7/8 oz organic sugar\u003cbr>\n6 7/8 oz brown sugar\u003cbr>\n6 2/3 oz. peanut butter\u003cbr>\n2/3 oz. vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n2 large eggs\u003cbr>\n4 2/3 oz. oats\u003cbr>\n10 oz. organic flour\u003cbr>\n1 tsp. baking soda\u003cbr>\n1 tsp. baking powder\u003cbr>\n1 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n10 oz butterscotch chips\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Directions\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCream together the butter, sugars, peanut butter, and vanilla extract. Beat in eggs one at a time. Stir in the remaining ingredients, mixing completely. Use an ice cream scoop to make portion cookies onto a lined cookie sheet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Small Cookies:\u003c/strong> Bake in a still oven (375 degrees) for 6-8 minutes, rotating the pan for even cooking.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Larger Cookies:\u003c/strong> bake at 350 degrees for 9-12 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Other Spots to Pop Into:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.hardknoxcafe.com/\">Hard Knox Cafe\u003c/a>: 2526 3rd St., SF. (415) 648-3770\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://sundancecoffeesf.com/\">Sundance Coffee\u003c/a>: 2293 3rd St., SF. (415) 503-1446\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>The New Spot\u003c/strong>: 632 20th St., SF. (415) 558-0556\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yieldsf.com/_/Yield_Wine_Bar.html\">Yield Wine Bar\u003c/a>: 2490 3rd St., SF. (415) 401-8984\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"425\" height=\"350\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" marginheight=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" src=\"http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=100565608000050072681.0004756222016a6c3ae62&ll=37.759042,-122.388382&spn=0.011875,0.018239&z=15&output=embed\">\u003c/iframe>\u003cbr>View \u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=100565608000050072681.0004756222016a6c3ae62&ll=37.759042,-122.388382&spn=0.011875,0.018239&z=15&source=embed\">SF: Dogpatch Restaurants & Bars\u003c/a> in a larger map\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Men's Journal recently dubbed it one of America's best neighborhoods. The San Francisco Chapter of the Hells Angels is still there, and it may not be in your tourist guidebook. Nonetheless, the Dogpatch neighborhood is getting a lot of buzz lately. ",
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"description": "Men's Journal recently dubbed it one of America's best neighborhoods. The San Francisco Chapter of the Hells Angels is still there, and it may not be in your tourist guidebook. Nonetheless, the Dogpatch neighborhood is getting a lot of buzz lately. ",
"title": "Devouring Dogpatch: A Historic Neighborhood Comes Into its Own | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/dogpatch-300.jpg\" alt=\"dogpatch neighborhood in san francisco\" title=\"dogpatch neighborhood in san francisco\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-7347\">\u003cem>Men's Journal\u003c/em> recently dubbed it one of America's best neighborhoods. The San Francisco Chapter of the Hells Angels is still there, and it may not be in your tourist guidebook. Nonetheless, the Dogpatch neighborhood is getting a lot of buzz lately. Where the heavy industry used to be, a burgeoning arts district and dining scene has popped up--particularly around the intersection of 22nd and 3rd. In 2003, the neighborhood was voted an official historic district of San Francisco--helped by the fact that it was relatively untouched by the 1906 earthquake and fire. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Dogpatch is a nine square-block area below and to the East of Potrero Hill. More specifically, it's bounded by Mariposa Street to the North, Tubbs Street (23rd) to the South, Highway 280 to the West, and Illinois Street to the East. Part of its growth and popularity can certainly be attributed to its proximity to Potrero Hill, SOMA and downtown--and to the lightrail constructed a few years ago. Currently there is a lively debate regarding land-use issues, and worker's cottages and historic homes are being overshadowed by loft-style condos and the looming biotech industry. But never fear: its gritty, urban veneer is alive and well. So before you try to predict what will become of one of the last authentic neighborhoods in San Francisco, cruise around the Dogpatch for a handcrafted latte, a quaint Sunday brunch, or a sandwich at a pop-up lunch venue.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003cbr>\n \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/piccino-coffee-500.jpg\" alt=\"piccino coffee bar\" title=\"piccino coffee bar\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7348\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Piccino Coffee Bar:\u003c/strong> My favorite city is Paris. And on the rare San Francisco afternoon, strolling along a quiet side street, discovering a sweet little bakery or street-side flower shop, I’ll have a \"Paris\" moment. I had such a moment recently while aimlessly walking around the Dogpatch listening to the new \"Where the Wild Things Are\" soundtrack (amazing) and marveling at the unusually hot temperature (like close neighbor Potrero Hill, the Dogpatch is often the sunniest, warmest spot in the city). The first thing to notice about Piccino Coffee Bar is its minimalism: it's essentially a coffee counter with a small but lovely selection of crumbly scones, biscotti, muffins, housemade yogurt, hardboiled farm-fresh eggs, and grab-and-go sandwiches. And of course, coffee--and Blue Bottle coffee, at that. There isn't any seating and they have a big front window that opens in the afternoons, releasing wafts of richly roasted coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's always really nice when you fall in love with a spot only to learn later that they're committed to using sustainable products and sourcing from local artisans whenever possible--and that they deeply care about their impact on the community. Such is the case with Piccino Coffee Bar. A few of the local vendors they use include Fatted Calf, Andante Diary, Prather Ranch, and Star Route Farms. The standout beverage? The mocha. And let me just say I'm really not a mocha kind of girl. As I enter my (gasp) 30's, I need the strong punch of black coffee in the morning--or sometimes I'll opt for the occasional Americano or latte. But a mocha always seems more like dessert, more frivolous than utilitarian. However, Piccino's isn't cloyingly sweet and still tastes of strong, bold espresso. So many other coffeehouses rely on chocolate made with added sugars and thickeners, but Piccino Coffee Bar uses a special Recchiuti chocolate blend specially designed for them. They actually hand melt it in your cup. Last time I checked, Starbucks wasn't providing that service. And I love that they're not messing around with the caffeine: a small 8 oz. latte automatically comes with two shots. That's what I’m talking about first thing Monday morning. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To remember what a neighborhood coffee shop is really like, stroll into Piccino Coffee Bar. It's not fast, the whole ordering process is a little disorganized, you may wonder why they don’t have more than one person making drinks. But quaint, legitimate neighborhood coffee shops that focus on the quality and the craft of the drink are a dying breed. Do yourself a favor: remind yourself what they're like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.piccinocafe.com/\">Piccino Coffee Bar\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n801 22nd St., SF\u003cbr>\n(415) 824-4224\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon.-Fri. 7am-5pm; Sat.-Sun. 8am-5pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/kitchenette-500.jpg\" alt=\"kitchenette SF\" title=\"kitchenette SF\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7353\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kitchenette SF\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLunch is having its day in the sun right now. Whether you prefer the carts, counters, bike delivery salumi dudes--it's all out there. But you also get the sense that, while unique and undeniably cool, many of these trends are fleeting. However, Douglas Monsalud and crew at Kitchenette SF serve beautifully constructed sandwiches, a few side salads, a \"cookie of the moment,\" and a housemade beverage from a menu that changes daily--and I can guarantee you, they're here to stay. While the location is unassuming (a loading dock in an industrial strip in the Dogpatch), the food is anything but.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I invited my dad to come along and get a bite to eat recently. He appreciates new neighborhoods, thoughtful food, and innovative design--and I'd heard that Kitchenette SF had all three. Now, first things first: it's tucked away and not easy to find. But sometimes the things you have to really search for taste all the sweeter. We ended up parking before we spotted it, opting to find it on foot rather than driving around the block...again. You'll know you're getting warmer when you see a chalkboard sign out on the sidewalk. Cruise into the loading dock where smells of warm cookies commingle with the noises of businesses unloading goods and trucks backing in to make a delivery. There are some stairs leading into Kitchenette SF's loading dock and a little counter displaying the daily specials. After you order, linger and wait for your name to be called or head down the steps to snag a coveted bench, scattered haphazardly amongst the concrete below. It's all very urban. It's a little hipster. If the food weren’t good, I might think it was a little too cool for school. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I ordered the Marin Sun Farms' pork schnitzel sandwich with braised cabbage and pink lady apples, a peanut butter/butterscotch cookie, and organic strawberry soda with local seltzer. We shared a bag of 4505 chicharrones (ah, after being a vegetarian for twelve years, nothing makes up for lost time like a bag of salty pig skin). The sandwich had a perfect balance of flavors: a crunch and sweetness from the apple, a little kick from the braised cabbage, a light and chewy Acme roll. Although I write about food often, I can't say that sandwiches often bowl me over. That being said, I talked about this sandwich for days afterwards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More recently, I snuck away from work and ordered the \"Warehouse Picnic,\" consisting of fried Rocky Jr. chicken, a deviled egg, potato salad, corn-jalapeno salad, pasta salad with tomato vinaigrette, farmstead cheese, and Acme bread. Summer perfectly encapsulated in a box. Kitchenette SF has seriously redefined fast food. It's all organic, and most of the ingredients are sourced from local farms--Monsalud says he actually hits up the farms on his days off and, in addition to knowing where the food comes from, he often even knows which row! There's a very deep connection to the origin and meaning of the food they serve--and it shows. Check their website or twitter feed to get information on the daily menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchenettesf.com\">Kitchenette SF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n958 Illinois, SF.\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/kitchenettesf\">@kitchenettesf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n Hours: Mon.-Fri., 11:30am-1:30pm \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/serpentine-interior-300.jpg\" alt=\"serpentine interior\" title=\"serpentine interior\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7356\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serpentine\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy friend Anthony was visiting from New York about a month ago, and I was trying to show him a very authentic San Francisco beyond the obvious tourist attractions. Anthony's a little hipster. You know the type: tight jeans, spectacles, deliberately messy hair, and a faux-leather satchel bag. So I was trying to introduce him to spots that were a little edgy, a little grungy, a little off the radar. Enter: the Dogpatch and Serpentine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owned by Erin Rooney (of Slow Club fame), Serpentine is located in the former warehouse of a tin-can factory boiler's room. Because of its high ceilings, large windows, and sea glass fixtures, it almost feels more like a large artist's loft rather than a bustling place of business. Adding to that whimsical feeling: much of the normal din of a restaurant is missing. Mid-day on a sunny Sunday and it was crowded but strangely quiet. It's got to have something to do with the acoustics of the building--regardless, I have to say, with constant refills of coffee and good conversation, we could've sat there all day enjoying the peaceful morning. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, for the food. I am often prone to hyperbole. I'm not sure where I got this trait, but for those that know me, it's a very real fact. But believe me when I tell you that the dish I had at Serpentine was the most perfect brunch dish I've ever had. Although their menu is seasonal, the \"Red Flannel Hash\" seems to be a staple. It consists of chunks of beautifully roasted beets, potatoes, Prather Ranch beef brisket, two poached eggs, and spinach. It's filling but not in a 'stack of pancakes' kind of way. More in a fresh, balanced, satiated kind of way. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/serpentine-redhash-500.jpg\" alt=\"Serpentine red flannel hash\" title=\"Serpentine red flannel hash\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7362\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also tried the Alaskan sockeye salmon benedict with fried green tomatoes, pickled red onion, and lemon cucumber. We were definitely bummed that the fried green tomatoes were noticeably absent, but the salmon was cooked perfectly and the hollandaise sauce was surprisingly light and creamy. We also tried the buckwheat strawberry pancakes. Now I'm one of those people that doesn't like to order something at a restaurants that I can make well at home. Pancakes fall into that category. But something is different about Serpentine's flapjacks: they actually have large pieces of strawberry cooked into them, and are served with lots of butter and incredibly rich syrup. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All in all, the food was seasonal, conscious, and well executed. This may be my new favorite brunch spot as it seems the usual see-and-be-seen weekend crowd hasn't yet descended, so there isn't an obscenely long wait and you don't feel guilty lingering over numerous cups of coffee. Which is exactly what we did. Anthony went back to Brooklyn satiated--and hungry to return.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://serpentinesf.com\">Serpentine\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2495 3rd St., SF.\u003cbr>\n(415) 252-2000\u003cbr>\nHours:\u003cbr>\nBrunch: Sat and Sun: 10:00am-2:30pm\u003cbr>\nLunch: Mon - Fri: 11:30am-2:30pm\u003cbr>\nDinner: Tues - Sat: 6:00pm-10:00pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/just-for-you-exterior-500.jpg\" alt=\"Just For You exterior\" title=\"Just For You exterior\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7357\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Just For You Cafe\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI've been on a bit of a beignet binge lately. Blame it on the cooler mornings and evenings, the fact I'm training for a marathon and feel entitled to eat whatever (and whenever I'd like), or the depressing economy--whatever the reason, I've been turning to little fried pillows of dough for comfort. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Just For You Cafe is coming through for me. This neighborhood spot used to be located on 18th St. in Potrero Hill, but in 2002 they moved to their current location in the Dogpatch. Their tagline: \"We served slow food before it was popular.\" And they're not kidding: they use local charcuterie and Zoe's all natural meats, eggs from Petaluma farms, the bread they don't make on-site they buy from Acme, and the seafood and produce is mostly all local. Their emphasis is on Southern and American style cooking, with specialties like Hatch green chili huevos rancheros, creamy grits, and Creole crab cakes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few weeks ago, I was over that way visiting a friend and we decided to pop in after seeing the prominent \"Beignets\" sign in the window. It was pretty darn crowded--people bring their dogs, toddlers, the Sunday paper, out-of-town parents...and all gather waiting for a table indoors. Thankfully they provide a free coffee cart outside so you can fill up a cup and hang out on the curb. Life could be much worse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/just-for-you-beignet-500.jpg\" alt=\"Just For You beignets\" title=\"Just For You beignets\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7359\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We waited about a half hour, and were eventually seated at this little booth table all the way to the back of the restaurant. Right by the kitchen--on an unusually hot day. Nothing like a little sweat on the brow to inspire heavy beignet consumption. But we managed. Just For You Cafe serves a plate of three beignets, self-proclaimed \"fresh, fluffy pillows of perfection.\" I would have to agree. While their beignets definitely have a little more heft than others served throughout the city, they are worth the trip. After years and years in business, they've perfected the perfect dusting of powdered sugar and the light brown, buttery exterior. Eat them right when they arrive warm: our table noticed once they cooled down, they became a bit chewy (not really what you want in your \"fluffy pillow of perfection\"). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to our little pockets of fried dough, we tried the \"Crabby Bennie,\" Louisiana sausage, and biscuits. The Creole crabcake atop the traditional eggs benedict rocked. I love a good crabcake--and they're surprisingly tough to find. But here it's all about the crab (versus all about the breadcrumbs, leaving you wondering if there's even any crab present). And the biscuits, while we both felt they could've been lighter and flakier, had a nice crumb and traditional baking soda flavor. So while it looks like a typical greasy spoon from the outside (and inside, really), this little diner's got class. Owner Arienne Landry's proving that, with quality ingredients and local products, Southern comfort food can be mastered right here in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.justforyoucafe.com/\">Just For You Cafe\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n732 22nd, SF.\u003cbr>\n(415) 647-3033\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon.-Tue. 7:30 a.m.-3:00 p.m.\u003cbr>\nWed.-Fri. 7:30 a.m.-9:00 p.m. (now serving dinner)\u003cbr>\nSat.-Sun. 8:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m.\u003cbr>\nCash only\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Featured Recipe:\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Peanut Butter Oatmeal Cookies w/Butterscotch Chips\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFrom Kitchenette SF\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n7.5 oz butter\u003cbr>\n6 7/8 oz organic sugar\u003cbr>\n6 7/8 oz brown sugar\u003cbr>\n6 2/3 oz. peanut butter\u003cbr>\n2/3 oz. vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n2 large eggs\u003cbr>\n4 2/3 oz. oats\u003cbr>\n10 oz. organic flour\u003cbr>\n1 tsp. baking soda\u003cbr>\n1 tsp. baking powder\u003cbr>\n1 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n10 oz butterscotch chips\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Directions\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCream together the butter, sugars, peanut butter, and vanilla extract. Beat in eggs one at a time. Stir in the remaining ingredients, mixing completely. Use an ice cream scoop to make portion cookies onto a lined cookie sheet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Small Cookies:\u003c/strong> Bake in a still oven (375 degrees) for 6-8 minutes, rotating the pan for even cooking.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Larger Cookies:\u003c/strong> bake at 350 degrees for 9-12 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Other Spots to Pop Into:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.hardknoxcafe.com/\">Hard Knox Cafe\u003c/a>: 2526 3rd St., SF. (415) 648-3770\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://sundancecoffeesf.com/\">Sundance Coffee\u003c/a>: 2293 3rd St., SF. (415) 503-1446\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>The New Spot\u003c/strong>: 632 20th St., SF. (415) 558-0556\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yieldsf.com/_/Yield_Wine_Bar.html\">Yield Wine Bar\u003c/a>: 2490 3rd St., SF. (415) 401-8984\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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